Cover feb:mar 2018

February/March 2018

COMPLIMENTARY COPY

SAOIRSE RONAN F LY I N G H I G H I N 2 0 1 8

BELFAST • HOLLYWOOD • RIOJA • PARIS

Welcome to Ireland from AIB Corporate Banking

Mick Murray Head of AIB International Corporate Banking mick.j.murray@aib.ie or +353 (1) 641 4248

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AIB International Corporate Banking can help you build a powerful presence in Ireland.

To see how our dedicated team can work with you, contact Simon or Mick.

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CONTENTS FEBRUARY/MARCH 2018

CHECK IN

4 WELCOME Aer Lingus news 8 ARRIVALS Were you at Dublin’s T2?

11 CHECK IN This season’s great and good, from exhibitions to hiking fests 30 SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican browses new books and audio 32 MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK Dublin International Film Festival’s Gráinne Humphreys in the spotlight 34 5 GOOD REASONS Eoin Higgins champions the streets of Philadelphia 36 WEEKENDER Lucy White takes an elegant residence in West Berlin

64

Hooray Hollywood

38 AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO SEATTLE Washington State native Mary Kay Seales shows us around

FEATURES

40 GOLDEN GIRL Gilded actor Saoirse Ronan remains unfazed by fame, finds Tony Clayton-Lea 46 SCREEN AND HEARD Ed Power pulls focus on Irish filmmakers 54 BOUNTIFUL BELFAST Aoife Carrigy’s Northern Irish nosh 64 WEST COAST COOLEST Filmmaker John “Handsome Devil” Butler presents ...

Hollywood 80 GRAPE EXPECTATIONS Jessie Collins swills, sups and snacks her way around Spain’s Rioja region 90 PARIS JE T’AIME Eoin Higgins revisists and reveals French fancies

46 Filmmaker Focus

REGULARS

54 Belfast Digest

75 YOU SAY, WE SAY Eithne Shortall’s best fests top ten

99 5 SUITES FOR MY SWEET Lucy White’s Valentine wish list 106 48 HOURS IN MIAMI Eoin Higgins joins the jet set in Florida 123 AER LINGUS INFLIGHT On-board info and entertainment 152 TRIP OF A LIFETIME There ain’t no mountain high enough, in Chile, for globetrotter Eimear Phelan

80

Grapevine Goals in Rioja

BUSINESS

110 BUSINESS & LIFE Eleanor Ross on happening Hamburg 116 HIGH PRAISE Melanie Mullan worships hotels in Washington DC, London, Warsaw and Seattle 118 A DAY IN THE LIFE Arckit’s Damien Murtagh’s 24-hour snapshot

120 SIX THINGS I’VE LEARNT The evolution of Elbowroom’s Lisa Wilkinson

INTERNATIONAL BRANDS Acne Studios Alaïa Alice + Olivia Balenciaga Burberry Canada Goose Canali Céline Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Louboutin Claudie Pierlot Dolce & Gabbana Erdem Ermenegildo Zegna Fendi Givenchy Gucci Hermès Isabel Marant J Brand Jimmy Choo Louis Vuitton lululemon Maje Moncler Paige Paul Smith Prada Saint Laurent Paris Sandro Self-portait The Kooples Theory Tom Ford Valentino Victoria Beckham Zadig & Voltaire DISTINCTIVE IRISH BRANDS Cloon Keen Atelier Foxford Woollen Mills Lainey Keogh Louise Kennedy Lucy Nagle Rathbornes Waterford Crystal A WORLD OF OF BEAUTY Aveda Bobbi Brown Chanel Charlotte Tilbury Dior Frédéric Malle Giorgio Armani Huda Beauty Jo Malone London Kilian La Mer La Prairie Laura Mercier MAC Memo Paris Nars Sisley Yves Saint Laurent

DUBLIN CORK LIMERICK GALWAY

brownthomas.com

CARA Magazine February/March 2018

WELCOME ABOARD Aer Lingus begins 2018 in flying form, ranking as one of the world’s ten most punctual airlines. elcome aboard, and thank you for choosing to fly with us today.

I’m delighted to share some very positive news with you. In January, Aer Lingus was ranked amongst the highest airlines globally for on-time performance.

In results published by the global provider of digital flight information, OAG, Aer Lingus has ranked third most punctual airline in Europe, seventh mainline airline globally and tenth of all airlines worldwide for 2017. It was a fantastic conclusion to 2017, a year which saw a dedicated focus on on-time performance as a result of feedback from you, our travelling guests.

Having listened to your feedback via the “Voice of the Guest” survey, Aer Lingus understands that arriving at your destination on time is the single most important factor to you. These high rankings are a reflection of Aer Lingus’ persistent focus and delivery of on-time performance across each month of last year.

Your feedback is the cornerstone of Aer Lingus’ guest experience and we have made several improvements in recent times to improve your experience of flying with us. Improvements such as an enhanced Business Class cabin on transatlantic flights to include new Vantage seats that transform to a fully flat 6’6’’ bed and personal, multitouch 16’’ high-definition monitors for the

W

best that in-flight entertainment has to offer. Wi-Fi has been introduced on transatlantic flights, allowing guests to stay connected through their personal devices.

Furthermore, the menu in the Business Class cabin has been enhanced to include new dishes – seasonally-driven and sourced from the finest Irish ingredients – and the transatlantic economy meals have also been upgraded. In recent weeks Aer Lingus has introduced new and more nutritious options to its Bia food menu including more healthy and lighter snacks, plus gluten-free options.

Aer Lingus cabin crew members have also completed further guest service training to maintain and enhance our on board service, for which we have been awarded a much coveted four-star Skytrax rating.

Two years ago we set out to transform our on-time performance and aimed to take our place among the leading global players.

I would like to thank you, our guests, for your continued feedback which allows us to improve and tailor our service to your requirements. We aim to keep up this good work throughout 2018.

Thank you and have a pleasant journey.

Mike Rutter Chief Operating Officer, Aer Lingus Follow us on Twitter @AerLingus

FAST FRIENDS You told us that being on time was a priority. We upped our game.

Aer Lingus is now the third most punctual airline in Europe and tenth worldwide.

HERE YOU COME? Our inaugural service from Dublin to Philadelphia commences on March 25 with a four-times-a-week schedule. Better start training for those Rocky steps ...

PACIFIC PANGS Adding to Aer Lingus’ largest ever long-haul expansion is a direct route to Seattle, linking Europe with Washington State from May 18.

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EDITORIAL Editor Lucy White Deputy Editor Eoin Higgins Acting Deputy Editor Yvonne Gordon Assistant Editor Melanie Mullan Sub-editor Sheila Wayman Contributors John Butler, Aoife Carrigy, Geraldine Carton, Tony Clayton-Lea, Graham Corcoran, Fionn Davenport, Mark Duggan, Cliona Foley, Bridget Hourican, Tristan Hutchinson, Fuchsia MacAree, Nathalie Marquez Courtney, Eimear Phelan, Ed Power, Mary Kay Seales, Eithne Shortall

CONTRIBUTORS An award-winning journalist and editor, JESSIE COLLINS was previously editorial director of IMAGE Magazine, and also editor of this fair title after spending five years helming Irish Tatler.

Now a freelance editor and writer, she contributes a regular parenting column to image.ie, as well as writing for the Irish Independent and The Sunday Business Post. For this commission, starting on page 80, Jessie took on the hardship of a trip to the wine region of Rioja, where she forced herself to sample as much local produce as possible.

ART Art Director Niamh Richardson Creative Director Bill O’Sullivan ADVERTISING Advertising Manager Corinné Vaughan, +353 (0)1 271 9622; corinne.vaughan@image.ie Advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan +353 (0)1 855 3855; dereks@typeform.ie ADMINISTRATION Financial Controller Brett Walker Accounts Manager Lisa Dickenson Credit Controller Angela Bennett Chief Executive Officer Clodagh Edwards Editor at Large Laura George Editorial Consultant Ann Reihill BOARD OF DIRECTORS Chairman Robert Power Directors Patrick Dillon Malone, Melanie Morris, Laura George, Sam Power, Raymond Reihill, Gina Traynor

PRINTING PCP, England ORIGINATION Typeform Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by

TARA O’BRIEN is an illustrator from Dublin, who made her Cara debut in our December 2017/January 2018 issue depicting ice skaters. Her personal work has a focus on diverse representations of people, body politics and mental health.

And when she’s not drawing, she’s hanging out with her beagle, Frank. For this installment, Tara has illustrated a round-up by Cliona Foley on some of the best bars at which to cheer on Ireland at this year’s Six Nations Championship – go forth and tackle page 24.

Cedar Communications Limited and Image Publications.

ELEANOR ROSS’ work as a journalist has taken her from interviewing indigenous people in Siberia to meeting Syrian refugees in the Middle East, writing for publications including The Guardian, Newsweek (as their Asia staff writer), and The Sunday Times. But for her guide to Hamburg starting on page 110, she returned to the peace and serenity of her favourite city in Mitteleuropa, ate lots of carbs, and marvelled at just how fabulous winter light can be by the Baltic. She’s currently based in London writing a book about how to have adventures in the city.

CEDAR COMMUNICATIONS LTD CEO Clare Broadbent MD Christina da Silva Commercial Director Justine Daly Creative Director Stuart Purcell Editorial Director Maureen Rice Finance Director Jane Moffett Strategy & Business Director Ann Hartland +44 20 7550 8000 www.cedarcom.co.uk 85 Strand, London WC2R 0DW, UK

IMAGE PUBLICATIONS LTD

PUBLISHING COMPANY OF THE YEAR 2013 AND 2014 DIGITAL PRODUCT OF THE YEAR 2016 Image Publications, Unit 3, Block 3, Harbour Square, Crofton Road, Dún Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; image.ie Company registration number 56663 © Image Publications Ltd and Cedar Communications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus, Cedar Communications or Image Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus, Cedar Communications or Image Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from Image Publications Ltd.

February/March 2018

COMPLIMENTARY COPY

SAOIRSE RONAN F LY I N G H I G H I N 2 0 1 8

BELFAST • HOLLYWOOD • RIOJA • PARIS

Cara magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland.

IMAGE Publications Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Office of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie

ON THE COVER

Saoirse Ronan by Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times / Contour by Getty

Welcome to our new issue! We are to all yours. Feel free e away take this magazin rney. for your onward jou ur yo e lov o als uld We wo l feedback and trave photos via Twitter . @CARAMagazine

DESIGNING, WEAVING & TAILORING

Men | Women | Accessories | Home Magee of South Anne Street - Magee at Arnotts - Magee of Donegal Selected Stockists in Ireland & UK Magee1866.com

WHO? Rory McGee and Glenn Caulfield FLYING IN FROM ... Amsterdam RORY SAYS ...

“We’re just back from a weekend in Amsterdam visiting a friend of ours who lives there.”

WHO? Shane and Deirdre O’Donnell FLYING IN FROM ... London DEIRDRE SAYS ... “My son Shane lives in Australia and I haven’t seen him in two years. It never gets easier when your children leave, no matter how long they’ve been gone for.”

ARRIVALS

New year, new welcomes at Dublin’s T2. Were you there when we greeted guests?

WHO? Emma Carlon and Tess Donovan FLYING IN FROM ... London TESS SAYS ... “I’m from Australia and came to visit Emma in London. We’re heading to the West of Ireland for a few days and then we’re going to a friend’s wedding in Cork.”

WHO? Harry Reese and Sam Nicklin FLYING IN FROM ... London HARRY SAYS ... “We’re here for the weekend and heading to Cork for a festival. It’s more for work but we’ll get some downtime too.”

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WHO? Erik Van de Calseijde and Judith Ludwigs FLYING IN FROM ... Amsterdam ERIK SAYS ... “We live here but are from Holland. We got to stay home for an extra night because of snow at the airport.”

WORDS BY GERALDINE CARTON / PHOTOGRAPHS BY MELANIE MULLAN

WHO? Dearbhla Kelly FLYING IN FROM ...

London DEARBHLA SAYS ...

“I’m just back from a comic-signing tour.

I work as a colour artist so I was away travelling with the author to promote it.”

NORTH DUBLIN’S COASTAL VILLAGES

BLARNEY CASTLE & GARDENS Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence

See and feel Ireland’s heritage, built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Ireland’s greatest chieftains.

Spend the day exploring the extensive grounds and gardens.

February - 9am - 5pm (Last Admission 4pm) March - 9am - 6pm (Last Admission 5.30pm) www.blarneycastle.ie info@blarneycastle.ie (Only 5 miles from Cork) �

CHECK IN EAT · READ · GO

THE NEED FOR SPEED

ELSIE DRIGGS, “AEROPLANE,” 1928. / © THE MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS, HOUSTON, FROM ESTATE OF ELSIE DRIGGS / IMAGE COURTESY OF THE FINE ARTS MUSEUMS OF SAN FRANCISCO

The Machine Age (from around 1880 to 1945) introduced technological innovations that revolutionised American life – from assembly lines in factories to home appliances, skyscrapers and, of course, the aeroplane. Cult of the Machine: Precisionism and American Art, showing at San Francisco’s de Young Museum from March 24 to August 12, looks at how industrialisation and technology inspired American art, design, photography and film, particularly during the 1920s and 1930s, with Precisionist artists such as Charles Demuth, Georgia O’Keeffe and Elsie Driggs (who painted Aeroplane, pictured) working with a streamlined “machine” aesthetic to focus on urban and industrial themes. deyoungmuseum.org

AERLINGUS.COM |

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STAY

4 GRAND IRISH ESCAPES

Dunmore House Hotel, Co Cork While rooms with Atlantic views are the main draw for guests to this third-generation family-run hotel in Clonakilty, its exceptional service, pet-friendly digs and cockle-warming food are what make the experience extra special.

The bar and restaurant menu highlight the quality produce that’s available around West Cork and self-catering courtyard houses are ideal for large groups. Rooms from €129. dunmorehousehotel.ie

Renvyle House, Co Galway Huge fireplaces are just one of the warm welcomes you get upon arriving at this 60-hectare estate in the wilds of Connemara. There’s an emphasis here on sourcing local craftsmanship and food produce, with Connemara marble in the bathroom, Irish tweed bed throws and head chef Tim O’Sullivan’s menu that includes Atlantic seafood and lamb reared on the local mountainsides. Rooms from €170. renvyle.com

The Lodge at Ashford Castle, Co Mayo Set within 141-hectare grounds of the Ashford Estate, The Lodge at Ashford offers elegance and comfort in the form of country house charm and splendid views over Lough Corrib. If the weather doesn’t permit the plethora of outdoor activities, the handsome selection of books in the library, fine dining in the award-winning Wilde’s Restaurant and a spa treatment in the Beauty Rooms will surely keep you occupied. Rooms from €150. thelodgeac.com

ART

DIVE IN

Hyperconsumerism and “Reaganomics” are archly referenced in Running Wild, an exhibition of works by four key American artists during the 1980s. Suburban scenes are given an undercurrent of menace in paintings by Eric Fischl, right, cars are dismembered by Peter Cain, and David Salle and James Rosenquist turn mass marketing on its head. The show runs at The Arts Club in London’s Mayfair from February 27 to March 18; viewings for non-members are by appointment only every Wednesday and Saturday, 10am until noon. theartsclub.co.uk

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FOOD

SILVER SERVICE

It has been more than 50 years since Holly Golightly emerged from a yellow cab, takeaway cup and croissant in hand, setting a trend that viewers have long been re-enacting. At long last, Tiffany has added true meaning to the Breakfast at ... of the book/film’s title, having opened the Blue Box Café in its New York City flagship store. With iconic blue furnishings, fine crockery and a luscious afternoon tea menu, it’ll be an instant hit – and not just for breakfast. tiffany.com

ERIC FISCHL, CHRISTIAN RETREAT, 1980, OIL ON CANVAS, 162.6 X 243.8CM / COURTESY SKARSTEDT

Dromoland Castle, Co Clare This historic pile dates back to the 11th century (its current structure to 1835), with wall tapestries and shiny suits of armour a constant reminder of its heritage.

Thankfully it’s not a draughty proposition with straw beds and floors: interiors are lavish, there’s a golf course and leisure centre, and famous guests have included Nelson Mandela and Johnny Cash. B&B from €252. dromoland.ie

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CHECK IN FEB/MAR 2018.indd 12

31/01/2018 11:34

© WIENTOURISMUS / PETER RIGAUD / SCHIELE COLLECTION AT THE LEOPOLD MUSEUM VIENNA

ART

HISTORY

Eternal Flame

There’s a Modernism love-in happening across Vienna throughout 2018 that celebrates the movement’s four chief rabble-rousers, all of whom died in 1918: artists Gustav Klimt, Koloman Moser, Egon Schiele and architect Otto Wagner. Their daring works rocked the art establishment at the time, and continue to excite and inspire.

Exhibitions and events will be held throughout the year in the city’s galleries and museums, including the Leopold Museum, The Museum of Sound, Kunsthistorisches Museum, the Belvedere and MAK. wienermoderne2018.info

HIDDEN TREASURES

Learn about the mysterious Nazca culture who lived in Peru around 200 BC to 650 AD at Searching for Traces in the Desert at the Museum Rietberg Zurich, with colourful ceramic vessels, musical instruments and gold masks on display until April 15. rietberg.ch

WELLBEING

Winter blues leading up to the clocks going forward? Lean out and into Co Wexford’s Monart Spa, for three days of relaxation and rejuvenation. Its Monart Life Detox Programme combines rise and stretch meditation classes with reinvigorating Voya spa treatments, light lunches, dinner and a range of other mindfulness treats to restore knackered bodies and minds. €479 per person sharing. monart.ie

© YUVISSA MIJULOVICH

THEATRE

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QUIET HAVEN

On the Wing

Choreographer Michael Keegan-Dolan’s superb Swan Lake/Loch na hEale – a bold, thrilling, brutal yet life-affirming reimagining of the Tchaikovsky ballet as set in the Irish Midlands – is on a national and international tour from February 1 to April 11. The unforgettable closing sequence is worth the ticket price alone. teacdamsa.com

BEACH

DAY GRAB YOUR

SWEATER

MADE IN IRELAND

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shop online @ blarney.com

DIASPORA

RAISING THE BAR One of your most recent projects is Le Bateleur, below, a bar on Nice’s Cours Saleya.

What was the biggest challenge?

The buildings on the Cours Saleya have historical listings, so the challenge was getting an awkward 300 sq m space to work while upgrading it for compliance with current local regulations.

Spatial planning is a bit like putting a jigsaw together and there is huge satisfaction when it does come together.

Your top three French Riviera hotspots? Having designed three Ma Nolans Pubs in Nice Old Town, Nice Port and in Cannes, I am duty bound to mention them!

Those aside, I love La Cave de Mougins, a wine bar in the hills

above Cannes. Certainly Beefbar on the stunning marina in Monaco is an experience, not just for its mouth-watering beef but for its no-expense-spared design.

You also fly in and out of Brussels regularly. Any favourite haunts? I try to stay at Les Chambres des Martin. The rooms are beautifully designed and it gives me a good excuse to go to the nearby Café du Sablon. They do takeout coffee, which is nice for walking around the antiques shops or the weekend antiques market. For lunch I recommend Claire Fontaine delicatessen – it’s hard to come away without stocking up on preserves – followed by window shopping (and chocolates) at the 19th-century

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JULIA DUNIN

Designer Denise Ryan set up Fineline Interiors in Ireland in 2000 before moving to London, where she stayed for three years before upping sticks to Luxembourg five years ago with her husband. There, they have Europe tantalisingly at their doorstep, being within 30 minutes of Belgium, France and Germany.

arcade Galeries Royales SaintHubert. For dinner, I’m a fan of sustainable seafood restaurant Bia Mara by Irish duo Barry Wallace and Simon Whiteside. The decor is simple but the food is far from it – I recommend their lime and lemongrass tempura with seaweed salted chips, paired with any local Belgian beer.

Do any specific design eras or movements inspire you? Since moving abroad eight years ago I’ve become more appreciative of Irish craft and design. When I lived in Ireland I looked outwards, to see what was happening elsewhere.

Now I recognise that Europeans regard the Irish very highly for integrating design, innately and subconsciously.

Have you had any particularly farcical language-barrier fails?

I’ve studied French, German and Spanish over the years but I need immersion to maintain them – and in Luxembourg, you can be exposed to at least four languages in a day. Once, when consulting on a café installation in an art gallery in Luxembourg, I introduced myself in French at reception.

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The German receptionist consulted with her colleague in Luxembourgish. She then phoned the business owner in German, while her colleague began to converse with me in French. When she got off the phone we began to speak in French again, at which stage my mind had shut down, but she asked, “Do you speak English?

My French isn’t so good!”

Where do you visit in Ireland?

As soon as I land at Dublin Airport, I need a fix of sea air. I have family in Sutton, so a walk along Strand Road or around Howth Head does the trick. A bite to eat at The Brass Monkey on Howth Pier is a nice finish. On my most recent trip back, we went to Catch 22 on Clarendon Street and enjoyed a cocktail at Peruke & Periwig beforehand, finishing the evening in McDaids – without which no trip home would be complete.

What do you stock up on in Ireland that you can’t buy in Luxembourg? The thing I miss most is what you can’t buy. If I could bottle the warmth and the humour to take back with me, I would.

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THEATRE

Beaky Blinder

ACTIVITY

TAKE A HIKE

TIM WALKER

If you have been hibernating during the winter months, it’s time to ease yourself back into outdoor life in time for spring – and what better way than to join the Dingle Walking Festival, which runs from February 16-18 in the West Kerry paradise. Walking enthusiasts of all levels can take to the Dingle Peninsula’s magnificent mountains, valleys and Atlantic coast for guided walks, followed by music and fun in the town’s lively pubs. dinglewalkingfestival.com

MUSEUM

A STELLAR TURN

Tennessee Williams lived in the Florida Keys for 34 years and fans of the A Streetcar Named Desire author can visit the new Tennessee Williams Museum in Key West to see everything from personal photos and memorabilia to first-edition plays. kwahs.org DESIGN

Sole Music

These bobby-dazzlers are one of many artefacts on show at Rhythm & Reaction: The Age of Jazz in Britain, an exhibition at London’s Two Temple Place celebrating the 100 first landed on British shores. In the Roaring Twenties, music years since jazz music first halls and nightclubs were transformed by this revolutionary new sound from influenced art, design and created a more the States, which in turn influenced nuanced understanding of African-American culture than the minstrel stereotype that preceded it. Instruments, posters, paintings, textiles and film are all on show until April 22. twotempleplace.org

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CO-OPERATIVE WHOLESALE SOCIETY, BAR SHOES 1920-1925 / © COURTESY OF NORTHAMPTON MUSEUM AND ART GALLERY

Four times a charm for actor Cillian Murphy, left, and director/playwright Enda Walsh, who are teaming up again for a stage adaptation of Max Porter’s poetic novel Grief is the Thing with Feathers. Murphy plays a widower and father whose despair is both comforted and exacerbated by a metafictional crow that visits him. Happily, the play makes its world premiere on home soil at Galway’s Black Box Theatre on March 20, before moving on to Dublin’s O’Reilly Theatre. The bad news: both runs are sold out. complicite.org

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BRUNCH

SKETCH LONDON

A family visit to London is not complete without at least one visit to Pierre Gagnaire’s wonderful Sketch, in Mayfair.

There is nothing not to like about it – it’s quirky, arty, theatrical and stylish, and there is a selection of rooms to discover, each offering a different menu from one of our absolute favourite chefs. For brunch in The Parlour choose the mango, passion fruit, goji berry and pomegranate juice and Sketch scrambled eggs with black truffle – all utterly delicious. sketch.london

FOOD FLIGHT

STEVEN FREEMAN

Kevin Thornton is regarded as Ireland’s best chef. Co-owner, with his wife Muriel, of Dublin’s Thornton’s Restaurant for 26 years, he helmed the only Irish restaurant to have featured in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants and was the first Irish chef to garner two Michelin stars. The duo also steer Kevin Thornton’s Kooks, organising events, classes and wild food outings. kevinthorntonskooks.com

LUNCH

NOBU MALIBU

A few years back we spent a month on the West Coast of the United States. In Malibu, one of our favourite lunchtime treats was a visit to Nobu. The views from the terrace are spectacular and the menu is exciting and innovative. The bluefin toro sushi was delicious, as were the mini tacos (we tried the Wagyu, vegetable, shrimp and lobster). The black cod with miso was also an out-and-out triumph. noburestaurants.com

DRINKS

RED O HOLLYWOOD

During our West Coast trip to the US, we were introduced, by a friend, to Red O in LA – a bustling, stylish Mexican restaurant with an inventive menu.

There, we had the best margarita we have ever experienced: a serrano chile syrup delight called an Alacran Margarita. Well worth a visit. redorestaurant.com

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DINNER

CARBONE NEW YORK

On a trip to visit our son Conor in New York this past summer we tried Carbone, an old-school Italian restaurant with great attention to detail in its retro decor and excellent staff. This restaurant is a delight – like stepping back in time to mid-20th century New York – serving great classic Italian dishes with a modern twist. Try the spicy rigatoni vodka, an old favourite of mine. Reservations are essential as it’s really popular. carbonenewyork.com

Ireland M&A Legal Adviser of the Year Matheson

Some Transaction Highlights Advising Gurnet Point on its public takeover of Innocoll Holdings plc

Advising Nexvet Biopharma plc on its public takeover by Zoetis

Advising Worldview Capital on its takeover of Petroceltic International plc

Acting for Aviva on its acquisition of Friends First

Advising Scandi Standard on its acquisition of Manor Farm

Leading the Way in Corporate M&A Matheson was recently named Ireland M&A Legal Adviser of the Year at the 2017 Mergermarket European M&A Awards. Excellence matters and Matheson’s Corporate and Commercial Department, led by 20 partners, is the recognised leader in the Irish legal market with unparalleled experience in complex and innovative domestic and international corporate transactions across all industry sectors.

Matheson’s cross disciplinary M&A teams, now recognised among the top deal makers globally, have advised on more cross-border deals involving Ireland than any other Irish or international law firm in the last ten years while bringing unique domestic and international M&A insights. With a wealth of experience across our five partner led offices worldwide and a dedicated 100 person Corporate Department, Matheson has some of the most experienced corporate lawyers in Ireland.

To discuss your Irish corporate M&A legal needs, contact Robert O’Shea, our Head of Corporate at robert.oshea@matheson.com or your usual contact at Matheson.

Matheson. The law firm of choice for internationally focused companies and financial institutions doing business in and from Ireland.

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Ireland M&A Legal Adviser of the Year Mergermarket European M&A Awards 2017 M&A Hostile Takeover Deal of the Year Finance Dublin 2017 Small Market M&A Deal of the Year Finance Dublin 2017 Equity Capital Markets Restructuring Deal of the Year Finance Dublin 2017 Ireland’s Most Innovative Law Firm Financial Times 2017 International Firm in the Americas International Tax Review 2017

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3 NEW-ISH MID-RANGE MARVELS TO TRY IN DUBLIN

OMG OMAKASE

Chinatown, New York City is a place where many Big Apple Asian food dreams are made and recently no dream has been dreamier than those conjured up at Juku. The creation of New York Times-acclaimed chef Kazuo Yoshida and artworld bigwig Max Levai, it also serves the luscious libations of Tim Cooper, whose repertoire incorporates interesting Japanese things such as shiso leaf and yuzu in exceptional cocktails. As for the food, it’s authentic, innovative and all the things that garnered such high praise for Yoshida in 2017, making this a 2018 must-visit in New York. jukunyc.com

GRUB’S UP

NIGHTMARKET Co Limerick man Conor Sexton and his partner (in life and business), Jutarat Suwankeeree, known simply as “R”, run one of the most authentic Thai restaurants in the city.

They serve the tastes and flavours of Chiang Mai and R’s hometown Hua Hin in the bourgie ‘burb of Ranelagh, on the city’s south side. (120 Ranelagh, Dublin 6, 01 538 5200; nightmarket.ie)

CLANBRASSIL HOUSE The more casual progeny of critics’ darling Bastible, this bijou spot has been lauded from all quarters since opening in October. Helmed by a stellar team of young dining upstarts, the menu is accessible yet enticing and big on creative reinterpretations of classics. (6 Clanbrassil Street Upper, Dublin 8, 01 453 9786; clanbrassilhouse.com)

Eoin Higgins relishes the latest food news.

SKILLS SET

Hot on the heels of his four-course tasting menu at Marlfield House in Co Wexford on February 8, Arun Kapil, the chef and cofounder of Green Saffron, is offering a three-hour Indian cooking masterclass at Kilkenny's School of Food on February 10. schooloffood.ie

RIGHT HERE, RIGHT BAO

HEY DONNA Serial restaurateur Joe Macken’s budget Levantine offering on the Rathmines strip is bashing out mega-flavourful dishes and garnering massive thumbs up, not only from critics but also from vegetarians keen on the casual spot’s Middle Eastern promises. (137 Rathmines Road Lower, Dublin 6, 01 491 3731; heydonna.ie)

Further riffing on the Asian theme, yet much closer to home, Cork city’s charmingly named Bao Boi’s “steamy love in a bun” is pressing all the right buttons with the Rebel County’s aficionados of hand-held deliciousness. Expect light and fluffy steamed bao buns with fillings in combinations that include buttermilk chicken, featherblade beef, Wagyu, pork belly and the best of local seafood. Meanwhile, sides include the fascinating Taiwanese Blood Cake (black pudding with an Asian spice blend) that comes with sticky rice, soy egg glaze and crushed peanut. baoboi.ie

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IN

BEER

FINISHED STOUT

FOR RICH, CHOCOLATEY NOTES.

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MIX AND MATCH

ILLUSTRATION BY TARA O’BRIEN

The 135-year history and rivalries of Six Nations rugby make it one of world sport’s greatest tournaments. Cliona Foley picks out the best match-day watering holes.

LE CRUNCH OPENER

After beating France 19-9 last year, Ireland open this year’s Six Nations in the Stade de France, near Paris, where Les Bleus – spurred on by La Marseillaise – are most potent. In 2012, this fixture was called off due to a frozen pitch and, on February 3, Ireland can expect another frosty reception. Try side-byside rugby bars on Rue Princesse (Metro stop Mabillon), Little Temple Bar and Eden Park, the latter owned by ex-French captain Franck Mesnel.

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CIAO RAGAZZI

This year’s draw gives Joe Schmidt’s men three consecutive home games and the first, on February 10, is against Italy, coached by ex-Ireland star Conor O’Shea. Despite the introduction of bonus points last year, the Azzurri finished point-less so badly that they need to up their game. Bellucci’s, a classy Italian restaurant is within walking distance of Dublin’s Aviva Stadium and well known to Irish rugby fans as it is also right opposite Leinster’s home ground in the RDS.

TAFFS & DAFFS

A 9-22 loss in Cardiff last year, when George North was back to his rampaging best, ended Ireland’s championship hopes so they’ll be looking to silence the great choir of Welsh fans on February 24.

Within ten minutes’ walk of the Aviva, in Ballsbridge, they’ll find The Bridge 1859, a go-to pub on match days, co-owned by Irish internationals Jamie Heaslip, Seán O’Brien and Rob and Dave Kearney.

This quartet also owns the trendy Lemon & Duke bar in the Royal Hibernian Way.

TILT AT THE KILTS

Ireland’s Six Nations bubble was burst first day out last year when Scotland beat them 27-22 in a nail-biting, six-try opener and, since then, the Scots have noticeably beaten Australia and almost snagged the All Blacks. Visiting fans looking for an authentic rugby pub on March 10 should check out The Swan on Aungier Street, once run by Sean Lynch who played for Ireland and The Lions. Eighty years later this understated gem is still run by his family.

CHARIOTS PRIMED

Could playing the final fixture in Twickers on St Patrick’s Day bring luck for the Irish?

They kept the reigning champions try-less in last year’s 13-9 victory, which also ended England’s 18-game unbeaten run and Grand Slam dream, so Eddie Jones’ side will have revenge on their minds. The 18th-century White Swan, a 20-minute walk from the London stadium, is an historic rugby pub in a scenic spot on the banks of the River Thames.

Experience the fascinating story of Irish emigration at the world’s first fully digital museum, in Dublin’s city centre.

From the US to Australia and from Europe to South America, the story of Irish emigration is epic. And now it has a museum just as dramatic.

EPIC is an interactive experience where you can discover the history and culture of Ireland, and the huge influence that Irish people had on the new lands they would call home.

Open daily 10am-6.45pm (last entry 5pm).

“Unmissable” The Mirror “I had never fully appreciated the Irish diaspora until my visit to this high-tech exhibit” Rick Steves’ Europe

EPIC The Irish Emigration Museum, CHQ, Custom House Quay, Dublin 1.

TEL: +353 (0) 1 906 0861.

BOOK NOW www.epicchq.com

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t’s not called the bleak midwinter for nothing, as we drag ourselves, belts and collars tightened, from Christmas to spring. But we don’t have to suffer long, at least according to the ancient Celts, who celebrated the beginning of spring with “Imbolc” (literally, “in the belly”, referring to pregnant ewes), the first of their four major seasonal festivals, kicking off on St Brigid’s Day on February 1. The 800-year-old Hook Lighthouse (hookheritage.ie) in Co Wexford is celebrating Imbolc with three days of music, storytelling and the “Quickening”, a Celtic goddess ceremony, from February 2-4.

From the past to the present day, Imagining Ireland: 21st Century Song (nch.ie) celebrates contemporary Irish song’s multicultural flavours at Dublin’s National Concert Hall on February 3. Paul Noonan, Lisa Hannigan, ArtSoul’s Loah, Mango & MathMan and others will bring their interpretations of Ireland to bear through soul, alt-folk, gospel, blues and electro – as well as visuals and spoken word.

Loah will also be performing with leading DJ and composer Kormac,

I

LAURA SHEERAN

SARAH DOYLE

Ireland has a wealth of diverse music acts taking to the stage this season, finds Fionn Davenport.

alongside the Irish Chamber Orchestra, composer and conductor Eimear Noone and 30 other guest musicians, at Equivalent Exchange in Dublin’s Vicar Street on March 18, as part of St Patrick’s Festival (djkormac.com). This is a new departure for Kormac, who spent most of 2017 studying with Europe’s leading composers in Bulgaria and is bringing his new-found collaborative insights to this one-off gig.

Focusing exclusively on the soothing power of a well-played cello, Spike 2018 (spikecellofest. com), marks its second edition at The Workman’s Club in Dublin from February 9-11. This celebration of alternative cello features a cast of home-grown and domestic cellists performing new music, from experimental pop to avant-garde; hosting workshops for experienced players and beginners; and – curveball – accompanying sessions of yin yoga, a practice that emphasises stillness and the smooth flow of quiet energy, in contrast to more dynamic practices such as Ashtanga or Bikram.

Equally aspirational but minus the yoga is New Music Dublin (newmusicdublin.ie), which advertises itself as a “festival for curious ears and adventurous

HANS VAN DER WOERD

RHYTHM NATION Different strokes – music fans of all genres have plenty to look forward to, with live gigs coming up from DJ/composer Kormac, a cello fest and a New Music Dublin programme, co-conducted by James MacMillan.

souls”. From March 1-4, Dublin’s National Concert Hall is hosting an ambitious programme of concerts, talks, film, children’s workshops and even walking tours, starring some of the best-known contemporary music performers and composers in the world. Highlights include the RTÉ Symphony Orchestra’s world premiere performance of the Werner Herzog-inspired Conquest of the Useless by David Fennessy and a gig by alt-electro pioneers This Is Not This Heat, who have reformed to mark the 40th anniversary of their first gig.

Cork is getting in on the experimental music buzz with the first Sound Fair on March 23-24, a not-for-profit festival in the striking settings of St Peter’s Church on Main Street and the Cork City Gaol in Sunday’s Well. Sixteen acts will showcase experimental audio through installations and live performances.

And if you like your music served up with cowboy hats and “yee-haws”, Faith Hill, Tim McGraw, Emmylou Harris and Little Big Town are headlining Country to Country (c2c-countrytocountry.com) at Dublin’s 3Arena from March 9-11, the sixth visit by the Nashville roadshow that is Europe’s largest country music festival.

VIVE FRANCIS! As part of its exhibition on the poet Francis Ledwidge, the Centre Culturel Irlandais in Paris on March 1 has organised a tribute to the soldier and socialist killed in the First World War. Steve Wickham, Sinéad Gleeson,

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Oisin Leech, Saramai & Cormac O’Keefe and beat poet Lewis Kenny join forces for Where Angels Listen – a night of music, readings and performance, all guided by playwright Deirdre Kinahan. centreculturelirlandais.com

Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin 2, Ireland. | Phone +353-1-602-8900 | ConradDublin.com

Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin 2, Ireland. | Phone +353-1-602-8900 | ConradDublin.com

HOMEMADE

IT’S NEVER TOO SOON FOR A SPRING CLEAN. REVIVE YOUR GAFF WITH THESE HANDCRAFTED IRISH TREATS. 2

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1. WINGING IT

Bare walls need a lift?

Consider this cheery For the Birds print

by Jando Design, a husband-and-wife team who produce digital, hand-drawn and screenprinted gems from their Dublin studio.

From €20 (A4) at jandodesign.com.

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2. HOT POTS

Oh, what a pleasing frisson! Plant succulents married with unyielding concrete in these handpainted planters

by Irish brand ail+el. From €28 at Jam Art Factory (Temple Bar/Patrick Street, Dublin) or jamartfactory.com.

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3. PLANE SAILING

Remember Hilda Ogden’s flying mallards? Well, you don’t want those. But you might like these laser-cut aluminium planes, handmade to perfection by artist Kevin Callaghan at Cork’s National Sculpture Factory.

From €95 at cond.ie.

4. FLOUR POWER

The brainchild of Éamonn O’Sullivan, crafty brand Hewn in Westport, Co Mayo, is renowned for producing heirloomquality spoons, handcarved from locally foraged beech wood.

So handsome, so handy. Flour spoons from €55 at hewn.ie.

5. BAAAH STAR

Take a load off on a sheepskin foot stool

by Alison Ospina’s company Green Wood Chairs. Made by her own fair hands – and tactile to the max – these hazelwood structures are coppiced in West Cork. €205 at iamofireland.ie.

6. CHIN CHIN!

Not only will your whiskers be soft and nourished

by Oxmantown Skincare’s Rosemary and Cedarwood Beard Oil but you’ll smell dreamy. Made in Stoneybatter. €20 (30ml) at madeindublin. bigcartel.com.

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SHELF LIFE

Bridget Hourican leafs through the season’s best reads, and praises literary events and audio gems.

FICTION TRAVELLING IN A STRANGE LAND

by David Park (Bloomsbury, released March 8) The “strange land” is a frozen, snow-shrouded Britain and Ireland. Flights are cancelled but Tom must travel from Belfast to Sunderland by car and boat to pick up his son, who’s sick and stranded in student lodgings. Precise, elegant and a lyrical description of a man’s journey into himself by the prizewinning author of The Truth Commissioner.

Before cheap flights, mass tourism and the selfie was “the Golden Age of Travel” – a post-industrial period, when only the rich or adventurous travelled on ocean liners and steam trains and there was no visible environmental damage or jadedness at all-too-familiar sights. In this enormous, 616-page trilingual book, Taschen puts the travel heyday at 1869-1939, the flavour of the era told through archival travel posters, guides, tickets, leaflets, brochures, menus and luggage stickers. The colonialism of the period is airbrushed but it’s hard not to feel beguiled, nostalgic and wistful. Think Wes Anderson’s Grand Budapest Hotel spread over five continents and a thousand tinted pictures.

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SARAH WOOD

©MARC WALTER COLLECTION, PARIS / COURTESY OF TASCHEN

PHOTOBOOK

THE GRAND TOUR: THE GOLDEN AGE OF TRAVEL BY MARC WALTER AND SABINE ARQUÉ (Taschen, hbk, €150)

OPEN BOOK

EVENT

Making Waves ESSAYS FEEL FREE by Zadie Smith (Hamish Hamilton) Passionate, ironic and curious, it could be said that Smith’s novels are essentially essays tricked out with narrative and characters. In these pieces she looks at Facebook, global warming, Joni Mitchell, Justin Bieber, Karl Ove Knausgård and more, with a brilliant definition/defence of libraries: “An indoor public space in which you do not have to buy anything in order to stay.”

MEMOIR BRAVE by Rose McGowan (Harper Collins) McGowan started writing her explosive memoir before she turned major whistle-blower on Harvey Weinstein. Even without #metoo, the activist actress has a big tale to tell: childhood in the Children of God cult in Italy; teenage runaway turned household name in the long-running TV series, Charmed; engaged to Marilyn Manson; fired by her agent after exposing sexism in Hollywood …

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Dún Laoghaire’s Mountains to Sea dlr Book Festival returns this March 21-25 with a particularly brilliant line-up: Sinéad Gleeson chats to Baileys prizewinner Ali Smith, above; Olivia O’Leary to US poet laureate Robert Pinsky; actor Adrian Dunbar directs TS Eliot’s The Wasteland, with music by Nick Roth; Eithne Shortall gets the lowdown from Gail Honeyman about her novel Eleanor Oliphant is Completely Fine before it hits the big screen, and AfricanAmerican activist Dr Angela Davis talks women, race and class. mountainstosea.ie

Every Sunday afternoon on BBC Radio 4, Mariella Frostrup talks to a writer (fiction or non-fiction), about their latest book, or themes that obsess them, authors they admire, literary festivals they recommend. Frostrup is smart, engaging and formidably well read, but keeps things light and smooth. Curious about everything, she takes the show from transgender characters in fiction to writing to music, from the Greek myths to David Grossman, translations to Jennifer Egan. Catch up on previous episodes on the BBC iPlayer Radio.

Check in Best film festival city? It’s a cliché but, for me, it’s Cannes. I first went in 1994 – the year Pulp Fiction won the Palme d’Or – and I saw Kieslowski’s Three Colours: Red in the Grand Théâtre Lumière. I love the energy of Cannes, its commitment to world cinema, the celebration of film as an art form and the red-carpet glamour and excitement of watching a world premiere. It’s exhausting but intoxicating – I wouldn’t miss it for the world.

World’s best restaurant?

The best-kept secret that is Mariñela, a small, familyrun restaurant right on the harbour of San Sebastian.

Their grilled octopus is so good that we go regularly.

MY TRAVEL NOTEBOOK What would your dream holiday involve? Years ago, I travelled solo on the Trans-Siberian Railway from Moscow to Vladivostok via Mongolia and fell in love with these countries. To retrace the famous Peking to Paris car race of 1907 would be both terrifying and spectacular.

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Have you ever visited a place purely because you fell in love with its on-screen depiction?

When visiting Kenya, I made the pilgrimage to see the former home of Karen Blixen at the foot of the Ngong Hills outside Nairobi, where Out of Africa was set and shot. It hasn’t changed since the film, which was slightly Three spooky. fantasy travel companions? Journalist and writer/director Nora Ephron, for her wit and gossip.

War photographer Lee Miller for her wonderful eye and courage.

My real-life travel companion, Ania Trzebiatowska, whose curiosity inspires me.

Director of the Dublin International Film Festival since 2007, Gráinne Humphreys has traversed the globe in search of the world’s best films and also to showcase the finest of Irish cinema. This year’s event runs across several venues from February 22 to March 4 and will include abundant screenings, workshops, galas, talks, conferences and exhibitions, including the Irish premiere of Nora “Cartoon Saloon” Twomey’s animated feature What’s the most memorable business The Breadwinner, which was produced by trip you’ve ever done? The 2009 Busan Angelina Jolie. diff.ie International Film Festival in South Korea to start negotiations to bring over a season of Irish films.

We brought a delegation of key Irish filmmakers, including Neil Jordan, Jim Sheridan, Lance Daly and World’s best hotel? With John Butler. They were the hit of the festival and it the amount of travelling was a wonderful launchpad for Irish cinema.

I do, the hotel matters more than you’d think. But one that comes out on top is very close to home – our festival hotel, The Merrion, Dublin, which combines One desert island possession? luxury and warmth and I make lists for work and pleasure has the best service and so it’d be a shiny Lamy ink pen, warmest staff. From Al oodles of multicoloured ink Pacino to Julie Andrews, our guests love it. cartridges and a fancy notebook.

t Edlfas T Epic Be C ACtitan S rOout u € h

ug o r th

VISIT TITANIC BELFAST

Birthplace of rMs titanic and proud Winner of ‘World’s leading TourisT aTTracTion’ World Travel aWards 2016

Titanic Belfast features nine interactive galleries that explore the sights, sounds, smells and stories of Titanic. The world’s largest Titanic visitor experience, it is located at the very place where RMS Titanic was designed, built and launched. Explore the shipyard, walk the decks, travel to the depths of the ocean and uncover the true legend of Titanic in the city where it all began, Belfast, Northern Ireland.

to BooK visit TITANICBELFAST.COM

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5 GOOD REASONS ... … to fill up on Philadelphia.

Eoin Higgins extends his Philly feelers.

EAT AND DRINK We all know about the Philly cheesesteak. Some of us may even have had one of the city’s most famous creations.

However, we haven’t all had the immense pleasure of trying the sumptuous and iconic sub at Dalessandro’s Steaks & Hoagies – something of a legendary experience and recently voted the city’s best iteration of the magnificent, messy, beefycheesy, comfort food.

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to PHILADELPHIA four times per week from March 25.

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PARK LIFE Contrary to popular belief, it isn’t always sunny in Philadelphia – but when it is, the city is awash with civic green spaces (there are more than 4,000 hectares of parkland) where citizens and visitors go to rest and play. The most famous is Belmont

Plateau – it looks familiar because it had a starring role in the Will Smith jam, Summertime – but there are other, lesser-known urban oases to uncover, such as John F Collins Park, a teeny-tiny zone of Zen tranquillity.

MAJOR ART Cheap is cheerful but free is fantastic. First Friday in the Old City sees more than 40 of the district’s best galleries open late (until 9pm) and its streets come alive with food, live music and an appreciation for all things creative. If you do feel like flashing the cash, however, there is a great concentration of young and emerging artists’ work that can be bought for a typically reasonable outlay.

MARKET FORCES Find a food experience with a difference at The Reading Terminal Market. “It is the defiantly beating heart … of old, original Philadelphia,” as local journalist Rick Nichols describes it. In business since the late 19th century, the market is home to more than 100 wildly varied drinks hawkers and food fixers – whatever your tummy seeks, you will find it here, from Amish pretzels to po’ boy sandwiches, seven days a week.

ILLUSTRATION BY GRAHAM CORCORAN

I LIKE TO MOVIE To run up the 72 stone steps to the entrance of the Philadelphia Museum of Art, or “the Rocky steps” as they are better known, and shadowbox at the top, is surely the ambition of any boxing film fan worth their smelling salts.

Sweaty grey tracksuit: optional; shouting “Yo, Adriaaaaaan!” at the top of your voice upon reaching the apex: compulsory.

John Farrington Antiques 32 Drury Street, Dublin 2.

Fine Diamonds and Gemstones

5.55 carat D colour pear shape diamond ring

Tel: +353-1-6791899 Web: www.johnfarringtonantiques.com

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WEST-KEPT SECRET East Berlin is known for its hipness but Lucy White finds a modern classic in the West’s Hotel Henri. tanding outside the Henri Hotel, off the swish shopping boulevard Kurfürstendamm, you’d be forgiven for thinking that Sally Bowles might run out to greet you with a prairie oyster. But while its bulb-lamp sign is distinctly Cabaretesque, Henri’s high-ceilinged interiors are thoroughly Art Nouveau; even its front of house staff wear uniforms that hark back to the fin de siècle, making for a cinematic effect.

It wasn’t always thus. Before starting life as the Henri Hotel in 2016, it was the Hotel Residenz and before that, an apartment building.

The restored ground-floor salons lend a genteel, residential air, not least at breakfast, when the hot and cold buffet is presented in a quaint “kitchen”, and also at abendbrot – the German tradition of breaking bread with cheeses, meats and dips, and here served free for guests from 7pm to 9pm each evening. There’s an honesty bar beside the reception desk, as well as in-room fridges, tea and coffee-making facilities.

From here, squeeze into the tiny, utilitarian lift and enter giant double doors to each Tardis-like floor. Our spacious Salon room is beautifully outfitted with a four-poster bed, antique furniture and vintage-style

S

finds, the only nod to its former Hotel Residenz past being a small bathroom, where a tiled border has been painted over and a plastic flush button at the loo mismatches the elegant, era-appropriate sink and bathtub fixtures. The balcony, stretching across the length of one wall, is the cherry on top of our rather gorgeous boudoir.

There are also Hotel Bogota Suites, inspired by the former nearby apartment block turned eponymous Berlin hotspot where once Helmut Newton was trained by the photographer Yva in the 1930s, before the Third Reich Chamber of Culture set up camp. Some of the Hotel Bogota’s zimmer could cost as little as €40 per night, even in the noughties. But gentrification – Bvlgari, Cartier and swanky car showrooms moving into the area – sealed its fate when it closed in 2013.

These ubiquitous luxury brands that brush shoulders with the equally familiar H&M, Forever 21, Superdry, etc, speak volumes about the neighbourhood today, which was historically an affluent, central district in the West until a reunified Berlin made Mitte its commercial nucleus. There are also more furniture showrooms here than you can shake a stein at, but we bypassed those for Benedict (benedict-

WHAT TO PACK Trinny London Stackable Makeup, from £16 at trinnylondon.com

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breakfast.de), a Greenwich Villagestyle all-day-breakfast restaurant on Uhlandstrasse. Teeming with bright, young, handsome things – staff and clientele – and foliage-print wallpaper, its long bar is ripe for propping. We tuck into exceptionally good shakshuka (me) and EisbeinStulle (him; pulled pork with piquant sauerkraut on rye bread with mustard and poached eggs), each washed down with moreish mimosas.

Also on Uhlandstrasse, we sniff out the excellent Spice India (spiceindia.de), for great value and credible Indian cuisine served by some of the friendliest staff you’ll find anywhere. The two complimentary shots of plum wine at the end of dinner send us back to the hotel with a spring in our step – and vowing to stay at the new Henri Hotel opening in Düsseldorf this year, whose 1960s aesthetic sounds more Mad Men than Cabaret, old chum.

Isabella Sideclasp Gloves, €150 at Paula Rosie for Autograph Rowan, Bra & Knickers, Westbury €37 & €17 at Mall, marksandspencer.ie Dublin 2

Knitted Top With Pleats, €68 (sale) at cosstores. com Rag & Bone Oddity Eau de Parfum (50ml), €150 at rag-bone.com

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Born spiffy – Henri Berlin’s tasteful, playful interiors complement the past without pomp or parody.

Rooms from €108. henriberlin.com

The Mermaid and Mrs Hancock (Harvill Secker)

by Imogen Hermes Gowar, €13.99 at easons.com

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THE EATERY There are so many places to eat in Pike Place Market in Downtown Seattle, but one of my favourites is Café Campagne, a French brasserie where owner/chef Daisley Gordon makes a perfect steakfrites, putting a French twist on Pacific Northwest cuisine. (1600 Post Alley, +1 206 728 2233; cafecampagne.com)

AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO

SEATTLE

Mary Kay Seales shows us the sights (and Puget Sounds) of Aer Lingus’ new transatlantic hub.

MORE ABOUT MARY Mary Kay Seales is a travel writer and photographer, born and raised in the Pacific Northwest. She also teaches at the University of Washington, where she has been on the English Language faculty since 1986. She is the author of two travel guides, one on the Olympic Peninsula of Washington.

THE CULTURE HIT An outdoor extension of Seattle Art Museum (SAM), the Olympic Sculpture Park serves up a breath of fresh air and natural beauty with your art. Located on Seattle’s waterfront, it features permanent and travelling installations, including Alexander Calder’s Eagle, below, all against the backdrop of the snow-capped Olympic Mountains and Puget Sound region. (2901 Western Avenue, +1 206 654 3100; seattleartmuseum.org)

THE WILDCARD Seattle is all about water, so get out on it. Take a Washington Ferry, above, to Winslow (wsdot.wa.gov), a tiny, but hip, town on Bainbridge Island (visitbainbridge.com). Walk on or drive – it’s a 30-minute ride offering 180-degree views of the city. Restaurants, shops and the fresh, salty air of Puget Sound await.

THE RETAIL THERAPY Uwajimaya Village, left, in Seattle’s International District is a huge complex of stores offering Asian specialty products and a food court with 12 restaurants. In one of Seattle’s oldest neighbourhoods, you can also have tea at the historic Panama Hotel, the setting for Jamie Ford’s novel Hotel on the Corner of Bitter and Sweet.

(600 5th Avenue South, +1 206 624 6248; uwajimaya.com)

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THE NIGHTSPOT Seattle is a true jazz town with a slew of fine local talent and a loyal jazz community. You can catch a live show any night of the week at Dimitriou’s Jazz Alley, a family-owned Seattle institution, featuring local artists as well as New York greats, such as Christian McBride, left. (2033 6th Avenue, +1 206 441 9729; jazzalley.com)

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to SEATTLE four times per week from May 18.

MORE TO EXPLORE THIS WINTER After a day exploring the Ashford Estate, make a cosy retreat to the castle and relax in front of an open fire, enjoy a delicious roast from the carving trolley and discover fine wines in the candlelit wine cellars. Take time to relax in the spa, watch a movie in the private cinema or play a frame or two in the billiards room.

Voted Best of the Best in the World – Virtuoso

ashfordcastle.com

INTERVIEW

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GOLDEN GIRL Rare is a young actor so self-assured as Saoirse Ronan.

But behind the cult of celebrity, she’s just another twenty-something finding her way – albeit one whose art imitates life in her latest, widely acclaimed film.

KIRK McKOY/LOS ANGELES TIMES/CONTOUR BY GETTY IMAGES

WORDS TONY CLAYTON-LEA

T

he irony of discussing a film about a young woman’s route to self-discovery via domestic travails, personal mistakes, the choice of right and wrong friendships, and the realisation that only she alone can negotiate her way through life is not lost on Saoirse Ronan.

The 23-year-old Irish actor has selected her default promotional interview posture (legs tucked up underneath her, hands loosely held together, laser-sharp focus towards the topic under discussion, natural charm offensive) and, before we know what has happened, our 30 minutes have vanished. Here’s the thing, however: unlike some inordinately famous people, Ronan has a knack of speaking ten to the dozen and actually making sense. Try it sometime – it’s more difficult than you might think.

We are in London at the tail end of 2017 and Ronan is in the thick of promoting her latest, superlative movie. Directed and written by American actor Greta Gerwig, the Golden Globe-winning Lady Bird centres on the 17-year-old titular teenager (Ronan) who is, essentially, searching for a version, or versions, of herself. The parallels between character and actor are, we agree, instructive. She has been a fan of Gerwig for some years and recalls watching the actor/writer’s movie Frances Ha, when, at the age of 19, Ronan moved to London.

“That film seemed to tell a story to me,” she says.

“There have been some movies over the past few years – ones I’ve seen and ones I’ve been in – that have documented where I myself am, or where I’m headed.

It was interesting that all of them revolved around the idea of belonging and friendship.”

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UNIVERSAL PICTURES INTERNATIONAL

INTERVIEW

Classic teenage-to-adult concerns then, so what was it like for the 23-year-old to dial back six years to when she herself was searching for something? What aspects of herself came through?

“Just what everyone goes through at that age, of not knowing who the feck you are,” she replies. “It’s scary, but it feels like teenagers have a real determination to find out what and who they are. Everything is a revelation, and although certain things I experienced were different to most 17-year-olds, in its essence, everyone goes through it when they’re that age.”

Ronan admits that the early part of her career (which began in extraordinary fashion at the age of 13, when she was Oscar-nominated for her role as Briony Tallis in 2007’s Atonement) wasn’t framed by

the same structures or limitations experienced by most teenagers.

“Throughout those years, and then from the age of about 17-23, everything is so new. It takes practice to let it settle and I feel that’s only happening for me now. I remember when I left home, there were so many times when I just wanted to go back and let my mam look after me! But you can’t go back and deep down you know that. Some people delay taking that step but you have to do it at some stage. The interesting thing about my character in Lady Bird is that she’s ready for it and it’s only at the end of the movie, when she’s in New York, that you see a flicker of a thought of hers that knows she’s by herself.”

In a very real sense, Saoirse Ronan has been out on her own since Atonement. A lot has happened to the American-born, Carlow-raised

Age of insolence – in Lady Bird, Saoirse’s titular teen navigates the minefield of dating, with co-star Lucas Hedges.

“I’ve always had a good sense of reality.

That comes from home, from Ireland, my parents, my family, my friends” 42 |

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youngster in the past decade and it can be said with some certainty that she hasn’t wasted a day of it. She has worked with quality directors (Peter Jackson, Joe Wright, Neil Jordan, Wes Anderson, Peter Weir, John Crowley) and eminent actors (Colin Farrell, Elisabeth Moss, Keira Knightley, Domhnall Gleeson, Rachel Weisz and Ryan Gosling).

Some would trade in their pension plans to work with even one of these names, yet Ronan is unruffled, her clear eyes fully open for the next part of the expedition. We wonder, for all her skills at investing characters with tangible emotional depth, whether it is easy to figure out herself?

An immediate shift in deportment is accompanied by an instant “no!”

Then there’s a pause, however, and a change of mind. “Well, it is and it isn’t. I know some people who, at certain points in their lives, find it very difficult to know what is and isn’t important. I’ve always known what’s central in relation to work, I think, and that’s because of the people, consistent figures, who have always been in my life. And also some people that I’ve met over the past few

INTERVIEW

years – people who have become so important to me and who, even if I met them through work, have become quite separate from it.”

Parting her hands to take in the evident luxury and comfort of the expansive hotel suite, she continues, “it’s the relationships you have with the people outside this that are the most vital.” Such friendships, she discloses, have made her high-profile status much easier to live with. She looks around the room again and you know it’s another “far-from-it-I-was-raised” moment.

“It’s never that I’ve been overwhelmed so much that I’ve been crippled by it, because I would always have had a good sense of reality. That comes from home, from Ireland, my parents, my close relatives and my friends. I can be totally myself with them and that’s a wonderful feeling.

You realise how much that can help you as a person; you can get through anything and it can also really inform the work you do.”

The sense that Saoirse Ronan barely puts a foot wrong is best exemplified by her work choices, which – certainly over the past four years of teen-to-adult roles – have been considerably intuitive.

She followed her Oscar-nominated (Best Actress) performance in 2015’s Brooklyn with an equally acclaimed role on Broadway (Arthur Miller’s The Crucible). With Lady Bird snagging an

impressive list of award nominations (and with three further films scheduled for release this year – On Chesil Beach, The Seagull, Mary Queen of Scots), it’s safe to say we ain’t seen nothing yet.

How she has managed to stay calm (and sane) in the face of the current climate of inappropriate behaviour towards women in the entertainment industry is testament to her steely character and family background. She recalls that her mother (her chaperone on movie sets until she was 18) had a robust, infallible sense of moral right and wrong.

“You hear stories of actors who went through things with people and didn’t feel they could say no. Now that I’m out on my own, I know what to look out for. I’ve never felt that I’ve been easily led.”

And if you don’t know what to look out for? “Then, of course, things happen,” she states, part rationally, part empathetically. “It would have happened to me. Every young person is impressionable, and it’s like what we were saying about my character in Lady Bird – she’s impressionable, too. As for me, though, I was well protected.”

And so it goes, as you might expect: Saoirse Ronan’s route to self-discovery continues.

Lady Bird is on general release in cinemas in Ireland from February 23.

SAOIRSE RONAN’S TOP 5 PERFORMANCES ATONEMENT (2007) Saoirse’s feature breakout role as 13-year-old Briony Tallis was so pitch-perfect that it gained her an Academy Award nomination for Best Supporting Actress. Critic’s Choice: “Ronan is the film’s glory ... [she] simply takes your breath away.” (Rolling Stone) THE LOVELY BONES (2009) Susie Salmon, dead at the age of 14, is looking down at her grieving parents from her

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personalised heaven. The film augured a new mature phase for Saoirse, who acted the adults off the screen. Critic’s Choice: “Ronan, easily one of the most promising young actors around, is appropriately luminescent.”

(Sight & Sound) HANNA (2011) The closest thing to an action movie Saoirse has undertaken (so far) sees her play the titular 16-year-old sleeper assassin

removed from hiding by her father to take revenge on a former CIA colleague.

Critic’s Choice: “Ms Ronan is an otherworldly beauty with a gift for stillness.”

(The New York Times) HOW I LIVE NOW (2013) Saoirse’s first adult role – the self-possessed US teenager Daisy, who is sent to the (ostensibly) safe English countryside as a potential nuclear threat overshadows

international relations.

Critic’s Choice: “The skilled young actress gives a tremendous performance.”

(Den of Geek) LADY BIRD (2017) Here the depicted path from teenager to adult is strewn with grit, insight and humour, much of it by Saoirse’s finest performance to date.

Critic’s Choice: “Lady Bird is undeniably Ronan’s show.”

(The Atlantic)

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SCREEN and HEARD

Aer Lingus launched an Irish Filmmaker Competition in 2017 to support and celebrate up-and-coming talent. Here we profile the winners – and the judges who chose them.

T

he Irish film and television industry has never been more productive and brimming with confidence. The number of international productions based in the country has grown impressively across recent years, from hits such as Vikings (shot at Ashford Studios in Wicklow) to the forthcoming adaptation of George RR Martin’s Nightflyers, to be filmed at a purpose-built facility in Limerick.

At the same time, homegrown filmmakers are producing increasingly challenging and innovative work. Established directors such as John Carney, best known for Once, and Brooklyn director John Crowley have been joined by relative newcomers John Butler (Handsome Devil; see his Hollywood feature for Cara on page 64) and Pat Collins, whose Irish-language feature Song of Granite basks in unanimous praise.

The future is just as sunny in front of the cameras. Our cover girl Saoirse Ronan received a Golden Globe for her performance in Lady Bird – turn to page 40 for Tony Clayton-Lea’s interview with the actor – while Seána Kerslake (Can’t Cope, Won’t Cope; A Date for Mad Mary) and Barry Keoghan (Dunkirk; The Killing of a Sacred Deer) are regarded as potential stars of tomorrow.

In acknowledgement of the exciting new talent in the country, Aer Lingus teamed up with Bord Scannán na hÉireann/the Irish Film Board to launch the first Irish Filmmaker

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Competition as part of the airline’s TakeOff Foundation initiative supporting indigenous arts.

Three winning short films were chosen by judges Neasa Hardiman (Jessica Jones, Z: The Beginning of Everything), Mark O’Halloran (Adam and Paul; Viva) and Dearbhla Walsh (Fargo; The Tudors; Shameless; Little Dorrit).

The successful entries will receive the honour of featuring as Aer Lingus inflight entertainment for the next 12 months – meaning they will be seen by an estimated 2.5 million sets of eyes. The films are Leap of Faith, a thoughtprovoking supernatural dramedy by Jonathan Farrelly; The Lost Letter, a Christmas animation produced by Brian Willis, and Goodbye Darling, a relationship study by Maria-Elena Doyle with the Dublin 1916 Rising against British rule as the backdrop. “Leap of Faith is a stylish drama about a young woman who lives a lonely life until she becomes obsessed with her mysterious neighbour,” says judge O’Halloran.

“The Lost Letter is an animation about a Christmas-obsessed young boy who is robbed of his idealism when he meets the reclusive old lady next door. Her life has been blighted by a Christmas letter that never got delivered.” He continues: “And Goodbye Darling is a stylishly delivered historical drama set during the 1916 Rising. It tells the story of Nancy O’Rahilly, wife of The O’Rahilly, as she awaits news of the Rising in Dublin and the fate of her husband.”

CARA WOULD LIKE TO THANK THE STELLA THEATRE IN RATHMINES FOR HOSTING OUR SHOOT. STELLATHEATRE.IE

WORDS ED POWER PHOTOGRAPHS TRISTAN HUTCHINSON

JUDGE

MARK O'HALLORAN Mark O’Halloran has cemented a permanent place in Irish cinema as writer and star of Adam & Paul, Lenny Abrahamson’s wry and devastating 2004 account of a day in the life of two Dublin drug addicts. He continues to divide his time between scriptwriting and acting – and is equally in demand in both spheres.

“I recently wrote a script about Hugh Lane – he of the Hugh Lane Gallery in Dublin – for RTÉ television. It was directed by Thaddeus O’Sullivan and stars Tom Vaughan-Lawlor, Marty Rea and Derbhle Crotty, with a cameo by Michael Gambon. It was my first time writing period drama and that was exciting. It was delightful to be involved with such a great team. I’ve also been acting a good bit of late, in the feature film Dublin Oldschool, directed by Dave Tynan, and in Shane Meadows’ new TV project The Virtues.”

He’s optimistic about the future of the industry here.

“We’re a major centre for production and that’s exciting.

We’re also a major centre for international co-production – it’s good to see ambitious and challenging ideas originating in Ireland and then finding international partners to invest.”

Favourite Irish film: “John Huston’s The Dead is an extraordinary rendering of Joyce’s story and stars a cast of brilliant Irish actors. It never fails to move me through its beauty and its powerful heart.”

PEOPLE | FILMMAKERS

WINNER

BRIAN WILLIS Christmas may be a fading memory but yuletide heart-melter The Lost Letter is still worth your time. It was inspired by a real-life incident, explains the producer Brian Willis, of Dublin production company Igloo Films.

“An article in The Irish Times about a Christmas letter that a little girl wrote to Santa that was found after nearly 100 years stuck up a chimney in a house in Rathgar,” he says. “This was the inspiration for The Lost Letter and the starting point for the director and writer Kealan O’Rourke and Will Collins. The animation was awarded funding through the Frameworks scheme run by the Irish Film Board and RTÉ. The animation process took over two years; the main animation was done by a small team lead by Matt Pidgeon to a very high standard.”

The short is movingly narrated by Oscar-winner Kate Winslet – quite a coup for a small Irish production. “Kate had seen another short animation we made

called The Boy in the Bubble, which was narrated by the late Alan Rickman,” says Willis. “She really liked that and looked at The Lost Letter and said she would do it. So we met her near Southampton, where she lives, and had the narration complete within a couple of hours. She was extremely generous with her time and really captured the essence of the short.

We are extremely grateful to her.”

With more than a decade of experience under his belt, Willis has seen the animation sector in Ireland soar. “It is very busy at the moment. The industry here is small but it really punches above its weight in terms of talent and calibre of studios. This has grown over the years and is now bearing results.

Irish studios now work closely with the colleges here to bring through new talent.”

Favourite Irish film: “The Crying Game, because it is the perfect blend of sexuality, surprise and the best closing song in any movie.”

JUDGE

NEASA HARDIMAN Neasa Hardiman announced her arrival as a talent to watch in 1998, when she became the youngest ever director of the popular Irish soap opera Fair City. In addition to her work in Ireland, she was soon in demand across the UK and US. Hardiman directed episodes of Holby City and Casualty for the BBC and oversaw the second series of Sally Wainwright’s top crime series Happy Valley.

In America, she has worked on superhero show Inhumans and Amazon Prime Jazz Age drama Z: The Beginning of Everything. Upcoming projects include her first featurelength movie, a science-fiction adventure set off the west coast of Ireland.

“I’m writing a noir thriller

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for a Hollywood production company at the moment,” she says. “Then I’m making my feature film Sea Fever, a sci-fi thriller set off the west coast of Ireland. Then off to the US for another TV drama.

“We have a vibrant industry here, with a wealth of highly skilled filmmakers,” she continues. “We’re lucky with the Irish Film Board, the BAI [Broadcasting Authority of Ireland] and our tax breaks.

As long as we nurture and support the next generation, we will ensure a vibrant industry into the future.”

Favourite Irish film: “A film made by Irish people, in Ireland, featuring Irish people?

The Butcher Boy, A Date for Mad Mary, Sing Street.”

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WINNER

JONATHAN FARRELLY “I’ve worked as a producer in radio and TV for years and had done a few small short films here and there but wanted to give it a proper go,” explains Jonathan Farrelly, who impressed the Aer Lingus judges with Leap of Faith. “So I applied for the short shots scheme where [State broadcaster] RTÉ and Filmbase commission four shorts a year. It’s a fantastic process.”

With Leap of Faith, his ambition was to make a piece that entertained but also emotionally engaged. In this gripping tale, an isolated young woman becomes fixated on her new neighbour – a mysterious figure who may not be quite of this Earth.

“It’s about loneliness,” says Farrelly.

“Humans are very social animals and we need connection. With that sentiment, most stories actually boil down to a character who

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feels marginalised, isolated or just lonely.”

To get this far has taken grit and ambition, says Farrelly. Breaking into the industry is a challenge – it is vital aspiring filmmakers stay strong and believe in themselves. “There are always more applicants than recipients for commissions, funding schemes and grants,” he says.

“I have a one-in-ten theory – that for every ten schemes, funding awards, etc that I enter, I’ll expect to get one.”

Favourite Irish film: “Paddy Breathnach’s I Went Down. It’s a 1997 crime thriller/ buddy comedy with Brendan Gleeson and Peter McDonald. I remember watching it at the time and thinking it was so fresh and completely against the type of films coming out of Ireland at the time.”

WINNER

MARIA-ELENA DOYLE The stunning landscape and rich historical heritage of New Zealand, where Maria-Elena Doyle was living for a time, inspired her first short in 2006 – a mix of live action and animation. She has since moved back to Ireland and has had her films shown at festivals around the world. Goodbye Darling, her latest project, was written by crime novelist Alex Barclay and explores the 1916 Rising through the eyes of Nancy O’Rahilly, wife of a rebel leader killed in the fighting.

“The O’Rahilly was the only leader in the Rising to have died in action,” she says. “Both Nancy and The O’Rahilly shared a love of music. She loved to play the piano but, after her husband’s untimely death, never did so again. This was the inspiration for the film. For her, ‘after ’16’ meant a family life entirely altered. I was struck by the poignancy and emotion of this true story.

“The film is from Nancy’s point of view. As the story progresses, the piano has a narrative presence supporting our protagonist’s emotional state of mind,” she continues, “her attempt to distract herself, her struggle to do so, her failure to do so … her return to sorrow and the tragic reliance on memories when she discovers her husband’s fate.”

Favourite Irish film: “I don’t really have a favourite of all time. But John Boorman’s Excalibur, shot in Ireland, left an impression as a child.

It has beautiful cinematography and a powerful soundtrack. There is a timelessness to it.”

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PEOPLE | FILMMAKERS

JUDGE

DEARBHLA WALSH A doyenne among Irish directors, Walsh is a 2009 Emmy winner for her work on the BBC’s Little Dorrit. Moreover, she – like Hardiman – is the rare director from this country who has crossed the Atlantic. She directed episodes in season three of FX’s acclaimed Fargo (the first woman to do so) and was involved in Netflix’s 2017 superhero hit The Punisher.

“I’m in pre-production for a new political spy drama for Channel 4 with the working title of Jerusalem. It’s set in London in 1945, following a young female civil servant through the corridors of power during the formation of Britain’s post-war welfare state,” she says.

As one of the judges of the Irish Filmmaker Competition, she is upbeat about the future of Irish cinema and TV – provided the correct supports are in place. “Young filmmakers must be given the space and time, the confidence and platform to grow and tell their stories. Finding your voice is something that takes more than one low-budget attempt. Initiatives like this Aer Lingus Irish Filmmaker Competition are a fantastic way for new work to be seen, supported and hopefully grow.”

She adds: “It is so difficult for young filmmakers here. Particularly in television drama, as we make so little for the domestic and international market.

The BBC has such a commitment to drama and, as a result, an impressive and powerful legacy. We have always been the poor relation in terms of opportunities and output. The advent of Netflix and streaming transcends borders and hopefully will give new opportunities to Irish filmmakers.

However, we must keep investing in and developing our cinematic voice."

Favourite Irish film: “Lenny Abrahamson’s powerful and poignant Garage, written by fellow juror Mark O’Halloran. I love its courage in all aspects of its production but particularly in its writing, casting and direction.”

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the ca stle | the lodge | the old stable mews

A rural retreat in the heart of Ireland…

N

estled on 1,000 acres of undulating Irish countryside, dotted with ancient woodland and glittering lakes, Castle Leslie Estate is one of the last great Irish estates still in the hands of its founding family. Steeped in history, full of character and charm, it is the ultimate Irish rural escape.

Only 80 minutes from Dublin and 60 minutes from Belfast, Castle Leslie Estate boasts a variety of accommodation and activities to suit all tastes.

The Castle, at the heart of the Estate, offers original interiors with old style hospitality and provides a complete respite from the world.

The Lodge is the social hub of the Estate, a country house boutique hotel that brings locals and guests together in an atmosphere of conviviality and comfort. The Old Stable Mews and Village Cottages are the perfect spot for groups that want the convenience of hotel living combined with private luxury home rental.

Castle Leslie Estate offers an idyllic setting for outdoor activity and adventure. Explore the Estate on horseback, enjoy some of Ireland’s finest coarse fishing, take in a movie at our private cinema, luxuriate in a relaxing massage in the Victorian treatment rooms, exhilarate in a abundance of outdoor adventures, or just borrow a pair of wellies from our boot room and go for a stroll on our 1,000 acres – just some of the choices that await you in this hidden corner of Ireland.

An Overnight Escape to include a wonderful 5 course dinner in the 2 AA Rosette award winning Snaffles Restaurant and a hearty full Irish breakfast starts from €140 per person sharing

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DESTINATION | BELFAST

B O U N T I F U L

BELFAST

Belfast has always known how to lay on a spread but now that word is getting out, the city has a new pep in her culinary step.

WORDS AOIFE CARRIGY PHOTOGRAPHS MELANIE MULLAN

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DESTINATION | BELFAST

C

onfidence. It’s a word that pops up a lot when you chat to local folk behind Belfast’s dynamic food and drink scene. And it’s impossible not to get chatting in the growing number of independently owned restaurants and cafés, pubs and bars in this famously friendly city.

In an age of uncertainty, it’s a refreshing attitude. But then, as Caroline Wilson of Taste & Tour NI (tasteandtour.co.uk) points out, this resilient city has form. “It’s what defines Belfast,” reckons the whip-smart former solicitor who runs food and drink-focused walking tours in the city. “No matter what’s going on around us, there have always been people who just get on with it.”

The stalling of local governance in 2017 didn’t stop the city having its best year yet for visitor numbers. And this year looks even brighter, with Belfast and the nearby rolling glens and rocky geology of the Causeway Coast tipped by Lonely Planet as the world’s top spot to visit in 2018.

Meanwhile, accolades from the Great Taste Awards, The Michelin Guide and numerous Irish and British restaurant awards have shone a light on top quality produce, cooking and service in the city and its environs – as did 2016’s NI Year of Food and Drink. Countering these heady celebrations is a disarming, down-toearth quality peculiar to Belfast.

“We don’t take ourselves too seriously,” says Alain Kerloc’h, the front-of-house half of Ox (oxbelfast.

com) that – together with Deane’s Eipic (deaneseipic.com) – brought Michelin-starred dining back to the city in 2015. Alain’s promise of “no snobbiness here” is exemplified by his inclusive wine tastings in Ox Cave wine bar. The emphasis is firmly on fun as you match an imaginatively curated flight of mystery wines to informative tasting notes provided to work out which gem you’re drinking.

Over at Eipic, chef Alex Greene is in the kitchen since the much-feted Danni Barry left last November to go back to her rural roots. “My first job was in a local country pub,” says Danni, who has teamed up with sure-handed restaurateurs Stevie and Cristina Higginson to re-open Clenaghan’s (clenaghansrestaurant. com), an idyllic country pub tucked

Previous pages, tasting flights at The Woodworker’s rotating tap room, left, and right, Alain Kerloc’h of Ox Cave wine bar, who runs fun and informative monthly wine tastings. Clockwise from top, so hot is Belfast’s food scene right now, even chefs make an appearance in the street art; Caroline Wilson of Taste & Tour NI; grub’s up at La Taqueria, where tacos go hand in hand with margaritas.

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DESTINATION | BELFAST

in a tangle of green hills and back roads just outside Moira and an easy spin from Belfast city. And it’s the stuff of greedy dreams: a flag-stoned cottage full of historic interest (Sir John Lavery stayed here) and quirky detail (a vintage machine conjures up curried popcorn) but focused on the deft perfection of pub fare, such as sugar-cured bacon with fried duck egg, mustard and chips, and traditional treats from the lavish dessert bar. The sourcing is impeccable, as expected with neighbours such as butcher supremo Peter Hannan (themeatmerchant. com), whose sugar-cured bacon won a Great Taste Golden Fork last year for best speciality product in Northern Ireland.

Moira also boasts the buzzing Wine & Brine (wineandbrine. co.uk), where chef-proprietor Chris McGowan is a master of flavour.

His skills were honed in Richard Corrigan’s London kitchens and showcased on the TV series Great British Menu before his native “country of growers and farmers” called him home. Chris is part of a wave of repatriated chefs who are mixing things up with homegrown 58 |

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talent. “Once Michelin shone the spotlight, people upped their game,” Chris says of the newly confident restaurant scene. “A lot of young chefs are really carving a new path.

They’re the benchmark.”

One such rising star can be found in Belfast’s waterside suburb of Holywood. Noble (nobleholywood.com) is a partnership between Pearson Morris aka “The Cook”, an alumnus of Eipic, and Saul McConnell aka “The Butler”, named Best Restaurant Manager in Ireland while working for serial restaurateur Michael Deane. Pearson’s cooking is as assured as Saul’s welcome is warm and everything at Noble is generous, from the waitresses’ enthusiasm through to the flavours and textures of suckling pig with perfect crackling and smoked black pudding.

Back in the city, several newcomers are bringing an international accent to local ingredients. At La Taqueria (lataqueriabelfast.co.uk), local chef Adam Lynas sources proper corn tortillas from Blanco Niño in Tipperary and authentic Mexican

Opposite, clockwise from far left, gable endings at Root & Branch coffee roasters, where bands play every Sunday; venison haunch, spiced red cabbage and celeriac at Holywood’s Noble; husband-and-wife duo Chris and Davina McGowan run Moira’s Wine & Brine. Above from left, raise a glass to excellent views at Babel; grand (de)signs at The Duke of York; award-winning sugar-cured bacon at Clenaghan’s and, below, Día de Muertos chic at pop-up restaurant La Taqueria.

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DESTINATION | BELFAST

cuts from Peter Hannan, for dishes such as suadero tacos of crispy braised beef flank. La Taqueria was borne of a long-distance love affair with Monterey-native Eliza Vignolle, who Adam met while running his own restaurant in Montreal. Having eaten their way around Mexico, the pair returned to Belfast in 2016 to open La Taqueria as a pop-up with business partners Andy Rae and Stevie Haller (who likewise began the hugely popular Home as a pop-up).

Nearby at Yugo (yugobelfast.com), local seafood and meats are given an Oriental treatment that spans from sashimi to bao via jungle curry, served by fun staff in a slick space where an open kitchen morphs into cocktail bar.

Cocktails are de rigueur in Belfast ever since The Merchant Hotel (themerchanthotel.com) won the coveted “Tales of the Cocktail” World’s Best Cocktail List in 2009.

Standards remain high and new places pop up regularly, such as the rooftop Babel (bullitthotel.com), with 60 |

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its “living walls”, from which fresh herbs are harvested for signature shrub cocktails.

A shared côte de boeuf at Bull & Ram (bullandrambelfast.com) of Hannan’s superlative 55-day saltaged Glenarm Shorthorn beef would set you up nicely to sample two serious cocktail lists in the Queen’s Quarter: upstairs at the restaurant’s own speakeasy lounge, or down the road for some inventive, Latinspirited creations at Liquor XXX (liquorxxx.com).

If a cleansing ale is more your call, the rotating tap room at The Woodworkers (laverysbelfast.com) offers a smart craft selection. Or head back to explore the Cathedral Quarter’s fine drinking holes, from dive bars such as The Spaniard to live music hotspots such as The John Hewitt and The Harp. Wherever your travels take you in this eminently walkable city and its accessible surrounds, Belfast won’t see you go thirsty or hungry – nor, indeed, short of chat.

Clockwise from top left, light floods the bar at the Titanic Hotel; Richard Ryan of Drinksology, a unique distribution and branding outfit with local and international clients, such as Jawbox Gin, Tempted Cider and New York’s The Dead Rabbit; The Friend at Hand has a collection of over 600 Irish whiskeys, including its own 13-year-old single malt series.

Visit our one-stop-shop for all your package holiday needs at aerlingus.com.

Find the perfect family holiday to the sun, a romantic city break, unforgettable cruises and many more.

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DESTINATION | BELFAST

STAY LUXE Get up close and personal with the city’s industrial past at Titanic Hotel Belfast, the luxuriously renovated HQ of Harland & Wolff that is literally on the doorstep of the superb Titanic Belfast visitor centre. Even a tipple in the former Drawing Offices – now a light-filled bar – allows you to absorb the rich history, with brass plaques providing interesting insights. Rooms from £89. (Queen’s Road, Titanic Quarter, +44 28 9508 2000; titanichotelbelfast.com) BOUTIQUE Within the generous proportions of a former seed warehouse on the edge of the Cathedral Quarter, Malmaison Belfast offers the cosiest of boltholes. Think luxurious bedrooms with freestanding bathtubs, 24-hour room service and the in-house Malbar and Brasserie, and various Belfast highlights within a short stroll, should you manage to leave.

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Rooms from £95. (34-38 Victoria Street, +44 28 9600 1405; malmaison.com) PLAYFUL This little sister to the sophisticated Merchant Hotel is a party girl, as per Bullitt’s tagline of “urban stay, urban play”.

Courtyard bar morphs into openplan lobby where baristas brew microlot roasts and an asador grill caramelises local Wagyu beef.

Bedrooms epitomise pared-back comfort, with king-size beds, rain showers and a Grub-to-Go breakfast bag to set you up. Rooms from £124. (40a Church Lane, +44 28 9590 0600; bullitthotel.com)

3 MUST DOS Plan a coffee crawl courtesy of Established Coffee (established. coffee), who are so proud of the local coffee scene that they’ve rounded up their favourite competitors in an online guide and map. Don’t miss the Sunday

Sessions at Root & Branch’s diminutive roastery and brew bar (rootandbranch.coffee), an afternoon street party with guest musicians such as brothers-in-folk, Ye Vagabonds.

Take a Belfast Gin Jaunt (tasteandtour.co.uk) from a classic Victorian Gin Palace through the moody Burt’s Jazz Bar into the high-octane heart of the Cathedral Quarter. Highlights include sharing a “Perfect Swerve” of Jawbox Gin with ginger ale (which was invented in Belfast) with Gerry White, the charismatic Jawbox founder and all-round local legend.

Fans of Irish whiskey or local history shouldn’t miss The Friend at Hand, a singular whiskey emporium run by the incomparable Willie Jack of the iconic Duke of York pub, a few doors down (dukeofyorkbelfast.com). Of 600 different Irish whiskeys displayed, only 200 are for sale, including a series of exclusive house blends.

Book a private tasting for the full experience and a tour of the fascinating museum upstairs.

SMART TIPS Chef-proprietor Conor McClelland of Holywood’s Rayanne House prepares a monthly “Titanic Menu” that replicates the Escoffier-inspired fare of the liner’s first-class dining saloon. Historically faithful highlights include cream of barley soup finished with Bushmills whiskey. rayannehouse.com It’s worth acquainting yourself with the Visit Belfast Welcome Centre on Donegall Square, where you can leave luggage, change currencies, avail of free Wi-Fi, sort accommodation or learn about the various city bookable tours. visitbelfast.com CARTRAWLER CARA WOULD LIKE TO THANK CARTRAWLER AND EUROPCAR FOR THEIR ASSISTANCE. FOR THE BEST CAR RENTAL DEALS, VISIT AERLINGUSCARS.COM.

WEST COAST

Co o l e s t

Academy Awards hype will reach fever pitch this March 4, when stars will glisten on Hollywood Boulevard’s red carpet. Here’s how to do La-La Land like an Oscar winner but without the price tag.

WORDS JOHN BUTLER PHOTOGRAPHS MARK DUGGAN

W

e begin with a question, phrased just as the locals might: what even is Hollywood? An LA neighbourhood, sure – Wikipedia will tell you it’s east of La Brea, north of Melrose, west of Western and South of Hollywood Boulevard. But that doesn’t include West Hollywood, East Hollywood or most of the film studios that we know “Hollywood” to comprise, in some way. It doesn’t even include the Hollywood sign.

The truth is no definition can hope to contain the multitudes of this infuriating, beautiful place.

The only way you’ll know you’re in Hollywood is if it feels dirty and healthy, spiritual yet utterly vapid, haunted by ghosts of the past and utterly consumed with the potential of youth, all at the same time. And for one week of the year, you’ll know where you are when all these seething contradictions collide and the resulting explosion is beamed around the world: Oscar Week.

Not only does Oscar Week lend this particular LA neighbourhood sharp focus, but there’s a far higher concentration of famous people

wandering about. It’s definitely fun to be there during that exact week, when everything is at a premium and the restaurants, nail bars and shrinks are all booked out. But it is possible to live like a starlet any other week of the year and for far less money than you might imagine, too – life in every pocket of Hollywood is an interesting mix of high and low.

Firstly, breakfast like a king at the famous The Griddle on Sunset (look out for the queue; thegriddlecafe. com) or the classic Basix on Santa Monica (basixcafe.com). Or, go the full sci-fi in West Hollywood.

Earth Bar (earthbar.com) serves a massive range of smoothies, juices and supplements but if you’re feeling brave, there’s a small clinic to one side where you can order from a vast menu of intravenous drips. This is the land of eternal youth, after all, so get yourself a Vitamin B-12 job for $30! And if you’re feeling very brave (by which I mean rich, hungover or slightly bananas), get a full vitamin I/V for $140! The whole thing takes about 20 minutes, during which time all you do is recline on a Laz-y-boy and watch Netflix, and then, apparently nourished with hundreds of nutrients, bound out

Previous pages, Los Angeles gives good sunsets, as seen from The Hollywood Roosevelt hotel. Clockwise from top, busking beats on Sunset Boulevard; Spartina’s wood-grilled octopus, Calabrese salami and potato with aioli; Pacific Design Center and Mr Spartina himself – chef/owner Stephen Kalt.

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into the world hydrated and pumped full of positivity.

One must also go shopping if one is to look good in this town, even if looking good means looking like one never shops. There’s your standard mega-mall The Beverly Center in West Hollywood (beverlycenter.com), and a somewhat antiseptic outdoor mall called The Grove (thegrovela.com), which, despite a saccharine ambience, has an undeniably broad range of stores (and the world-famous Farmers’ Market).

Some of the smaller-scale shopping hubs are fun to wander around too, most notably, Hancock Park’s Larchmont Street, brim-full of little boutiques, cafés and restaurants.

Ready for lunch? Californian cuisine runs from fresh and healthy to greasy and delicious. It’s hard to beat Zinqué (lezinque.com) and its beautiful patio, directly across the street from the hulking-but-beautiful blue, red and green Pacific Design Center. This FrenchAmerican café on Melrose is rightly known for its delicious salad bowl (with fresh Comté cheese and protein options such as salmon and grilled chicken on a bed of ... cauliflower rice, natch), but is just as good for drinking a glass of prosecco and watching the footfall.

For cultural specificity in LA, you can’t beat an afternoon at the movies.

The most famous movie theatre remains the ArcLight on Sunset, a massive complex of theatres with the famous Cinerama dome out front.

Quentin Tarantino’s New Beverly Cinema cinema runs a beautifully curated selection of films, or up on Hollywood Boulevard herself, take in

Side effect – our writer’s favourite cocktail at Musso & Frank Grill is the vodka gimlet but the dirty martini, above, is a class act. Right, where better to take a selfie than in Griffith Park?

LOS ANGELES ESSENTIALS SLEEP

ICON The Hollywood Roosevelt will always be, to me, the hotel with the David Hockney painted pool – one of the city’s most glimmering icons is surrounded by cabana rooms and a nice, shady bar. The hotel is also home to a club, Teddy’s, that up until a few years ago was a key stop in a nightlife club crawl. Its glory might have faded slightly, but it’s still there, and the hotel itself – just yards from the garish overkill of Hollywood Boulevard – is a calm, hip oasis with decent rooms and a very good room service menu. Rooms from $265. (7000 Hollywood Blvd, +1 323 856 1970; thehollywoodroosevelt. com) DISCREET A compound of low-slung buildings, discreetly tucked away on a one-way street, the Sunset Marquis is the hotel of choice for musicians. There’s a recording studio in the basement, Dave Gahan of Depeche Mode overdosed (not fatally) in one of the rooms years back and, outside it, I once smiled benevolently at the elderly Chinese lady clambering aboard a massive HarleyDavidson before realising it was Steve Tyler of Aerosmith. Rooms are high-end-motel in shape and size, but the quietude and discretion elsewhere are where it’s at. Rooms from $199.

(1200 Alta Loma Rd, West Hollywood, +1 310 657 1333; sunsetmarquis.com)

STORIED Hollywood lore has it that John Wayne once rode a horse into the lobby of this Art Deco high-rise flanked by giant, swaying palms, and that’s exactly what you’re getting when you pay to stay at the Sunset Tower – old-school glamour.

Decor is understated cool, dark and woodaccented, while the bar gives way to a deck, beyond which is a fine swimming pool with beautiful, uninterrupted views of Greater Los Angeles. Rooms from $395. (8358 Sunset Blvd, +1 323 654 7100; sunsettowerhotel.com) BLOCKBUSTING Home to the Oscars press room, where newly-minted winners get to gush to assembled media – and also the Governors Ball, the star-studded Academy Awards after-party – Loews Hollywood Hotel is a juggernaut of 628 guest rooms with impressive vistas and a fifth-floor, heated swimming pool. Rooms from $261. (1755 N Highland Ave, +1 323 856 1200; loewshotels.com)

EAT

VENERABLE Musso & Frank Grill is “Hollywood’s oldest eatery” (est 1919) and you can really sense the veracity of that claim everywhere you look, from its deep, plush booths to the waiters in starched whites, and the refreshingly vintage menu of steaks, Welsh rarebit, lobster, short rib ravioli and bone-in pork

chop. This is the kind of old Hollywood joint where you might see Al Pacino sitting one table over from a bar mitzvah celebration, and it serves a mean cocktail. Order their world-renowned martini that comes accompanied with a sidecar. (6667 Hollywood Blvd, +1 323 467 7788; mussoandfrank.com) RELIABLE Bravo, Spartina, for doing the Californian-Italian thing so damn well. Sit outside and order from a menu of locally sourced Italian classics, including superb wood-fired pizzas.

The owner, New York wunderkind Stephen Kalt, refers to his latest outpost as a trattoria and, although the decor here is highly sophisticated, this place nails the casual aesthetic of Los Angeles dining. (7505 Melrose Ave, +1 323 782 1023; spartina.la) INNOVATIVE Ludo Lefebvre’s Trois Mec, is a few years old but has not lost any of its cachet among Hollywood’s cognoscenti. Perhaps that’s due to the ticket system: you don’t make a reservation, you buy a ticket online.

Sitting in a repurposed pizza restaurant on an innocuous strip mall, you’ll wonder what the fuss is all about – until the plates arrive.

A tasting menu costs around $80 for food with a Michelin-star sensibility but an unforgettably fun ambience. (716 N Highland Ave, +1 323 484 8588; troismec.com)

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Clockwise from top left, dapper waiter Josh Beard at Musso Frank & Grill; look past the glitz and grime to find glimmers of a bygone era; Superman working it on Sunset Boulevard; matchy-matchy – mural meets photographer meets photographer in Fairfax.

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Snip joint – an Edward Scissorhands doppelganger pounds the Hollywood Walk of Fame, left. Above, a not-so-lone ranger in Malibu, and below left, the pre-awards snack of champions.

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to LOS ANGELES up to five times per week.

CARTRAWLER CARA WOULD LIKE TO THANK CARTRAWLER AND DOLLAR FOR THEIR ASSISTANCE. FOR THE BEST CAR RENTAL DEALS, VISIT AERLINGUSCARS.COM.

an afternoon show at Grauman’s Chinese Theater or the Dolby Theater and climb those same steps that the stars do on the big night.

Soon, the sun will be dropping orange-gold on to the streets, the smell of jacaranda (and, let’s be fair, petrol) in the air. It may be time for dinner. There’s a ton of great restaurants but, just like on awards night, your best bet might be a burger. Nowhere is the mesh of highand-low encapsulated in a more visual form than in the fleet of limos snaking around the block of Sunset and Orange on Oscar night (ditto the Golden Globes and Emmys). In-N-Out Burger (inn-out.com) is a Californian institution.

There are only three burgers on the menu, but I’ll be amazed if you’re looking for more afterwards. Don’t get any on your ball gown.

LA has always offered an abundance of world-class stand-up comics but a golden age might well be occurring at this very moment. Here, on any given day of the week, you can see locals such as Patton Oswalt, Tig Notaro and PF Tompkins work their act for about $30. My favourite show is the monthly Asssscat at the Upright Citizen’s Brigade Theatre (ucbtheatre.com), featuring Zach Woods and a rolling guest list of the

good and the great. The same goes for music, too, as just about every band stops off in Hollywood: the pièce de résistance venue has to be the Greek Theatre (lagreektheatre.com), a natural amphitheatre where outdoor shows are leant accompaniment by crickets and the scent of jasmine (and medical marijuana) drifting through the air.

Entertainment aside, I can’t believe I’ve made it this far without mentioning the great pleasure of just driving around Hollywood. Thanks to the explosion of cab apps, it might not be quite as necessary to drive oneself around but it is undeniably atmospheric to spy locations from the big (or small) screen, to crane your neck for a glimpse of an actor, or a mad-looking building – or a mad-looking actor. Whether you’re cruising along Mulholland Drive, or in a cab heading west on Sunset at twilight, listening to KCRW, the experience offers a fundamental sense of place. Roll down the window, turn the radio up. You’re really in Hollywood now.

Cara thanks LA Tourism for their support. discoverlosangeles.com

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You say, we say ...

BESTFESTS FOR2018

Mark your diaries, folks – this spring and summer offer a smorgasbord of great festivals for all ages and persuasions, says Eithne Shortall.

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IRELAND ANOTHER LOVE STORY, AUGUST 17-19 In the glut of boutique festivals that sprung up in recent years, this good-natured celebration of artistry is a real find. It’s impossible to be in a bad mood when wandering the beautiful Killyon Manor in Co Meath. At the time of

writing, its 2018 programme has yet to be unveiled but revellers had several reasons to be proud of last year’s Irish music selection, with performances from David Kitt, Overhead, the Albatross and Ships. anotherlovestory.ie

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SMART EDIT | 10 BEST FESTS

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UK WILDERNESS, AUGUST 2-5

While other music festivals are filled with security guards trying to keep attendees out of the water features, Wilderness in Oxfordshire encourages you to jump in the lake and swim. It’s also a place to rediscover the hippy-dippy freedom with which such events were once synonymous. Previous year’s performers include Grace Jones and The Flaming Lips, productions by Sadler’s Wells and Rambert, and starry food guests such as Yotam Ottolenghi and Angela Hartnett. But you can also do art classes, yoga and learn the correct way to butcher a deer. wildernessfestival.com

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Birmingham up to six times daily, from Cork twice daily and from Shannon daily.

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Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Venice

twice per week, and five times per week from March 25.

IRELAND OFFSET, MARCH 23-25 This three-day celebration of creativity aims to educate and inspire.

Previous speakers include Italian designer Massimo Vignelli and pop artist and Beatles collaborator Peter Blake. This year you can get an insight into The New York Times from its magazine design director Gail Bichler, or hear illustrator Chris Ware explain what goes into creating a New Yorker cover. It doesn’t even matter if you don’t recognise a single name on the line-up, you’ll still walk away from Dublin’s Bord Gáis Energy Theatre having learnt something. iloveoffset.com

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GIULIO SQUILLACCIOTTI & LA BIENNALE DI VENEZIA

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The Venice Biennale is best known as the world’s most influential art fair. Yet every second year it switches its focus to architecture and, for 2018, two Irish women, Yvonne Farrell and Shelley McNamara of Grafton Architects, have been chosen to curate the prestigious event. The theme is “Freespace” and you can expect to see and experience examples of architecture that are generous of spirit and powerfully beautiful. labiennale.org

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF CAROLINA FARUOLO & DANNY NORTH, FANATIC /

4

ITALY VENICE BIENNALE OF ARCHITECTURE, MAY 26 TO NOVEMBER 25

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WORLDWIDE ST PATRICK’S DAY, MARCH 17 It’s the one time of year when everyone, regardless of whether or not it suits their complexion, can get away with wearing head-to-toe green. In Dublin this March 15-19 – in addition to the parade – are new plays from Mark O’Halloran, Oonagh Murphy and Tara Flynn, and a concert from Ireland’s first homeless choir (stpatricksfestival.ie). There are all-things-Irish in Amsterdam on March 16-17, with traditional dance and folk music, plus a talk by writer John Banville and an animation workshop by Cartoon Saloon’s Rory Conway (stpatrickamsterdam.com). And last but by no means least, New York hosts the world’s biggest St Patrick’s Day Parade, with two million people expected this year (nycstpatricksparade.org).

6

FRANCE SNOWBOXX, MARCH 17-24 We’ve all stood in fields and watched our favourite bands but how many people can say they’ve done the same knee-deep in snow? This music festival in Avoriaz, where electronic meets hip-hop, makes the most of its French Alps location by offering attendees the option of hitting the slopes in between sets.

The 2018 line-up includes Fatboy Slim, Chase & Status and Loyle Carner. Be warned: this one always sells out. snowboxx.com

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MO SAMUALS

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF SAM NEILL / MO SAMUELS / RAWSON PHOTOGRAPHY / JASON FEAST

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Geneva up to ten flights per week.

UK BOARDMASTERS, AUGUST 8-12 I hate to disappoint chess fans but it’s not that kind of board-mastery they’re celebrating along England’s southwestern coast. This is the British equivalent of Ireland’s Sea Sessions, a joint celebration of surfing and music. The Chemical Brothers, Craig David and Annie Mac are among those treading the Cornwall boards in 2018; as to who’ll be treading water

– the organisers offer a deposit scheme if you’d like to pay for tickets in instalments. boardmasters.com

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Newquay up to six times per week.

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CARINA OKULA

FRANCE DINER EN BLANC, JUNE (SECRET DATE)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Paris up to five times daily, and from Cork daily.

MIKE DOBBINS

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A personal invite from a previous guest isn’t enough to gain entry to this chic event – you also have to come dressed in white. Every year the location changes (last year’s event was held outside Hotel de Ville) and is kept under wraps until the day, resulting in a stunning, flash mob-esque dining experience.

Diners bring their own food, tables, napkins and alcohol and take it all away with them at the end. For one night, the location is awash with thousands of people – but in the morning, it’s like nobody was ever there. paris.dinerenblanc.com

9

USA FUNK PARADE, MAY 12 It only lasts for a day but this festival in Washington DC’s multicultural U Street neighbourhood makes the most of its time by throwing a fair, a parade and plenty of music into the mix. The vibe is street party, the soundtrack is funk and the cost of entry is nothing at all. Marching bands and beatboxers mix with residents and you won’t get through the day without hearing some reference to local boys Marvin Gaye and Duke Ellington. funkparade.com

10 USA NATIONAL CHERRY BLOSSOM FESTIVAL, MARCH 20 TO APRIL 15 What could be more worthy of celebration as we enter spring than nature? This quirky festival was established to honour the 1912 gift of 3,000 cherry blossom trees from the city of Tokyo to the American capital Washington DC, which typically prettify the Tidal Basin from late March to early April. Events focus on the trees’ historic journey and the relationship between Japan and the United States. Expect music, kites, parades and cultural crafts. And remember: The dress code is pink. nationalcherryblossomfestival.org

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Washington DC four times per week in February and daily from March 1.

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DESTINATION | RIOJA

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GRAPE

EXPECTATIONS Already world-famous for its wine, La Rioja is a region not just steeped in the nectar of the gods, but abounding in history and gastronomy – the perfect place to discover a less-travelled Spain.

WORDS JESSIE COLLINS PHOTOGRAPHS NATHALIE MARQUEZ COURTNEY

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DESTINATION | RIOJA

“

M

y only regret in life,” wrote Hemingway, “is that I did not drink more wine.” If that now-infamous quote strikes a chord with you, then the path I am about to take is one you need to put on your bucket list. For it is essentially a wine-soaked journey through what is known as Spain’s Tuscany, La Rioja, although it needs no derivative comparison as it stands on its own, all 5,045 square kilometres of it, nestled beneath the Basque region in the north of the Iberian peninsula.

An autonomous region, the capital is Logroño, a city with a population of about 150,000, dating back to Roman times and the best place to base yourself if you are looking to explore the area. The city has much to offer in terms of history, but it is perhaps the narrow streets around Calle del Laurel (callelaurel.org) that may draw you first. Here you will find pintxos bars left, right and centre, often serving one or two specific delicacies.

Bar Soriano is perhaps one of the most famous and is hard to miss with its large, mushroom-shaped sign and swathes of customers all vying for a plate of their famous garlic mushrooms that seem to be turned out at an Olympic rate – it’s worth grabbing a spot at the counter (if you can squeeze in) and just watching the theatre of it all (all washed down with some local vino, obviously).

Once you have sated your appetite somewhat, it is time to get down to real Riojan business – wine –

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and there is no better place to start than the Museo de la Cultura del Vino Vivanco (vivancoculturadevino.es), situated just 35 kilometres west of Logroño in the town of Briones. Boasting one of the best archaeological collections relating to wine and winemaking, it is a massive love letter to the craft. The quality of artefacts, ranging from some of the first wine vessels discovered to an original Picasso engraving depicting “Le bouteille de vin” is truly stunning.

It is a privately run museum and also a working winery, making the Vivanco family estate wines. The state-of-theart vineyard is a thing of beauty itself, with every stage of the process on display, from sorting the grapes to the final ageing process, with an extraordinary excavation underground yielding the perfect cellar conditions and an almost 1960s Bond-lair-like architecture that is a marvel to behold. You can, of course, also drink or buy the fruits of their labour, eat pintxos at the bar or linger longer in their restaurant, which also serves excellent food.

Just ten minutes down the road is the winery of Cvne (pronounced coon-yay; cvne.com). Cvne is short for Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España (the

Previous pages, Isaac Martiñez, left, of the Cvne winery in Haro and, right, views of the Medieval town of Briones from the Museo de la Cultura del Vino Vivanco. Above, the mountainous outcrops of the Suso monastery, where monks once lived before relocating to Yuso in the 16th century.

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Clockwise from above, Laura Natividad enjoys the sunshine and wine in Logroño; flourishing vines in David Moreno’s Bodegas; vino guide and expert Gemma Moreno swishes a fine red at Bodegas; the town of Haro is also the home to the family-run restaurant Terete. Opposite, clockwise from top, views of the Rioja region from aboard a hot air balloon; pintxos galore in Logroño; Terete’s cellar is abundant with Riojan produce.

Fly return to BILBAO for 15,000 Avios points. Remember, if you don’t have enough points to fly to where you want to go, you can use those that you have and pay the rest in cash.*

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*BASED ON RTN FLIGHTS IN PEAK PERIOD, EXCL. TAXES AND CHARGES

DESTINATION | RIOJA

Northern Spanish Wine Company), founded in 1879 in the town of Haro by two brothers and which is still in the hands of their direct descendants. Its cellars date back over 150 years and, beyond the more modernised working winery, there is an incredible wine collection, with bottles well over a hundred years old and now covered in a kind of cavernous mould that is like a work of art itself. Rows of different vintage wines sit behind locked iron gates and the legend goes that the key was thrown into the river and only when it is retrieved can the gates be opened.

Haro provides a perfect stopover, being home to the marvellous family restaurant Terete (terete.es). Famous for succulent leg of lamb cooked in its wood-burning stove, it also produces, of course, its own delicious Riojan wine in cellars that wind their way underground from the kitchens and are well worth a visit to see what’s possible even in small-scale spaces.

“To take wine into our mouths is to savor a droplet of the river of human history,” wrote The New York Times in 1967 and, without doubt, one of the most fascinating aspects about winemaking is the stories that accompany each vineyard and the individuals who have breathed life into them. David Moreno is one such character and his eponymous Bodegas estate is a must-see (davidmoreno.es). Moreno revived his family winemaking tradition in the early 1980s, in their home town Badarán and, bit by bit, they have built up a successful winery and a great visitor experience. There is a host of different tours to do here, from trips around the vineyard (the deluxe version serves you lunch in amongst the vines) to simple wine-tastings and AERLINGUS.COM |

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DESTINATION | RIOJA

a chance to sample the delicacies of the restaurant, set in the dramatic surroundings of a vast cellar.

Every stretch of road reveals part of this region’s extensive and far-reaching history and there are a few diversions that don’t involve drinking that are worth checking out. The monastery of Suso is set high up on a mountainous outcrop overlooking the town of Yuso (monasteriodesanmillan.com) and is a Unesco World Heritage Site.

Cut into the mountainside, it was founded on the site of the cave of St Millán, a pilgrim from the seventh century beatified for his healing powers. The church subsequently fell into the hands of the Moors and so has beautiful Moorish architecture combined with its Christian foundations.

At its foothills is Yuso, home to a monastery, which the monks moved to when Suso became too small in the 16th century. Part of it remains a working priory but much is open for tourists now, including the incredibly ornate church and the sacristy, housing works of art and historic scriptures written by generations of monks. But as all of this may just leave you feeling thirsty again, thankfully the Asador San Millán (+34 660 606 855) across the road is a local favourite and the perfect place to rest up for an afternoon, taking in the beautiful valley and availing of the chance to sample just one more glass of that exceptional Riojan wine.

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Clockwise from top left, corkscrew collections at the Museo de la Cultura del Vino Vivanco; potter Antonio Naharro Flores at the wheel of his Navarrete workshop; colourful furnishings and mountain views at the Finca Los Arandinos; the impressive cellar at the Museo de la Cultura del Vino Vivanco.

St. Kilian’s German School in south Dublin welcomes boys and girls of all nationalities, cultures and religions. Children learn German from Kindergarten (Junior Infants) up to Leaving Certificate in a diverse and inclusive environment.

Our approach to education combines the best of the Irish and German educational traditions: students are prepared for the Junior and Leaving Certificate as well as the German Sprachdiplom and Sek1 examinations. Knowledge of German is not a requirement to enrol at St. Kilian’s.

Contact us to arrange a visit.

St. Kilian’s Deutsche Schule Dublin, Roebuck Road, Clonskeagh, Dublin D14 P7F2 T +353 (0)1 288 3323 E secretary@kilians.com www.kilians.com

DESTINATION | RIOJA

RIOJA ESSENTIALS SLEEP

CITY If you’re looking for something reasonable and close to the action, the Sercotel Portales Hotel in Logroño is a good option, being beside Plaza del Mercado and close to the Santa María de la Redonda Cathedral. More importantly, Calle del Laurel is just around the corner. Rooms from €55. (Calle de los Portales, 85, +34 941 502 794; hotelsercotelportales.com) HISTORIC If you want to base yourself in the more mountainous and historical area of Yuso, stay in the converted section of the San Millán monastery. Hostería San Millán offers four-star accommodation and has its own restaurant and bar, so you need not venture far in this peaceful location. Rooms from €89. (Plaza del Monasterio de Yuso, 26326 San Millán de la Cogolla, +34 941 373 277; hosteriasanmillan.com) RURAL The tiny town of Cuzcurrita de Río Tirón has a population of just over 500 people and is also home to the wonderful Hotel Teatrisso, a place dedicated to celebrating the arts, with each room given a different theme, from

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the Wild West to Out of Africa, and lots of fabulous little details.

Accommodation is spacious and light, with high, beamed ceilings and windows that open out onto the narrow stone streets, where the only disturbance seems to be the hourly ringing of church bells.

Rooms from €89. (26214 Cuzcurrita del Río Tirón, +34 697 922 452; teatrisso.com).

EAT

PINTXOS Blanco Y Negro’s specialities include a green pepper and anchovy sandwich, and ham and cheese bruschetta. Just around the corner is Bar Sebas (Calle Albornoz), which serves some of the best tortilla and meatstuffed piquillo peppers we had anywhere. (Calle Bretón de los Herreros, 48, Logroño, +34 941 220 079) CONTEMPORARY Just 15 minutes outside Logroño is the wonderful hotel, winery and spa Finca de los Arandinos. An extraordinary Modernist building jutting out from a promontory overlooking fields of vineyards, it is both a wine and design-lovers’ dream, with a contemporary restaurant that

takes its food almost solely from the local area, serving its own, also extremely delicious wine.

(26375 Entrena, +34 941 446 126; fincadelosarandinos.com) STARRY Spain is now famous for its Michelin star restaurants and Rioja is no exception. Restaurante Venta Moncalvillo in Daroca de Rioja is run by brothers Carlos and Ignacio Echapresto, who have worked tirelessly to make this one of the places to eat in Rioja. They use produce from their garden at the back of the restaurant and combine it with molecular methods.

As a result, the restaurant has won countless awards, with its wine collection being viewed as one of the best in Spain. (Ctra. Medrano, 6, Daroca de Rioja, +34 941 444 832; ventamoncalvillo.com)

SMART TIPS

Getting to Logroño – Bizkaibus line A3247 (aena.es), which connects Bilbao airport to Bilbao city and the main bus station, runs every 20 minutes from outside the terminal building. The trip into the city takes about ten minutes. Then connect on the Go Euro bus to Logroño, which runs roughly every two hours

in peak time from the bus station.

You can hire a car from the airport but considering this trip is wine based, you might want to find an alternative to driving. Alsa buses connect most cities in Spain (alsa.com) but another alternative is to do a trip by taxi. Wine Tourism Spain (winetourismspain. com) offers taxi tours from €90 per person, covering some of the major wineries with lunch stops and guided tours included.

With so much extraordinary local wine available at half the cost of what you would spend at home, making room for some choice keepsakes from your journey is well advised. Seasoned visitors bring a large suitcase, with a smaller carry-on inside. Shifting your clothes into the carry-on leaves you with ample space to bring back that tempranillo you just can’t live without.

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to BILBAO three times per week.

Reardens of Washington Street is a spacious but cosy late night bar with a genuine feel-good atmosphere for all sporting events and live music, where the finest food and drinks are always served with a smile.

Food Served Daily ‘til midnight.

Reardens Bar, 26 Washington Street, Cork

Tel: 021 4658100

www.reardens.com

Let us entertain you.

Look no further than the authentic Irish experience at The Oliver Plunkett.

Dedicated Whiskey Bar Experience our fantastic handpicked selection of whiskeys in a true rustic setting.

Taste the history and learn the heritage from our trained whiskey pro.

Traditional Irish Music Come experience the amazing “Ceol agus Craic” 7 nights a week with live Traditional Irish music & Irish dancing performances.

Authentic Irish Cuisine Serving Traditional Irish food all day, every day.

The Oliver Plunkett, 116 Oliver Plunkett Street, Cork

Tel: 021 4222779

www.theoliverplunkett.com

Paris Je T'aime We take to the chic streets of Paris to revisit some luminous classics, while also uncovering things bright and new in its revitalised restaurant and bar scene.

PHOTOGRAPHS AND WORDS EOIN HIGGINS

DESTINATION | PARIS

1 Previous page, left, the mesmerising l’esprit de l’escalier at the Hotel La Comtesse Paris Tour Eiffel, and, right, screen swiping at the Hôtel Palais de Chaillot.

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1 Capped and hatted Messrs on Boulevard de Grenelle. 2 Unpretentious victuals at Polidor, aka a lentil soup to die for.

3 The electric lightdappled, rainy streets of the pleasingly gritty Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis.

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4 Hand-painted window signage at Polidor restaurant.

5 It's always happy hour at the all-new Kouto cocktail bar.

6 Moving in interesting circles – locals play pétanque at a club on Rue Blomet. 7 Vive la France ... flag bearing at the Musée national de la Marine.

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DESTINATION | PARIS

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8 Bernard Chauvin at the home of possibly the best ice cream in France, Berthillon glacier and tea salon. 9 A next-level cocktail situation at Le Syndicat. 10 Witty wall art near Trocadéro.

11 Beautiful bouquets at Peonies, a cute cafécum-florist on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis.

12 Champagne and a raspberry fancy on the balcony overlooking the Eiffel Tower at Hotel La Comtesse Paris Tour Eiffel.

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DESTINATION | PARIS

SLEEP INSTA HIT If you want the picture-perfect postcard experience, zoom in no further than Hotel La Comtesse Paris Tour Eiffel. Situated on the left bank of the Seine, the hotel is said to have been inspired by the 18th-century, salonhosting French countesses and duchesses who cultivated some of the country’s greatest writers, thinkers, composers and painters. It’s a befitting tribute to these grand dames of Paris.

Rooms from €152. (29 Avenue de Tourville, +33 1 4551 2929; comtesse-hotel.com) BOUTIQUE A relative newcomer, the Eiffel Blomet Hotel is already making waves. The main attraction has to be the basement swimming pool and spa. Alternatively, it could be the attention lavished on the small design details that abound throughout this boutique property. Or, maybe it’s the quiet, comfortable rooms ... whatever the reasons, the Blomet amounts to more than the sum of its parts.

Rooms from €106. (78 Rue Blomet, +33 1 5368 7000; hoteleiffelblomet.com) DESIGNER The Hoxton is part of the trendy hotel group rooted in London’s Shoreditch.

The Parisian outpost continues the theme of hip, design-led functionality, while the 172 rooms that come in four different styles – each embracing the unique quirks, views and terraces of the elegant building – all have bespoke wood floors, feature walls and slick bathrooms. “Hox Perks” also come as standard, including a handy guide to the neighbourhood, a daily light breakfast and free worldwide telephone calls. Rooms from €99. (30-32 rue du Sentier, +33 1 8565 7500; thehoxton.com)

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13 Cola capers – brilliant

bartenders in action at Le Syndicat.

14 One of a number of highly memorable dishes at Bonhomie.

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DRINK NEOCLASSIC The decor at the trailblazing Experimental Cocktail Club is low-lit and cosy with shimmering gold highlights and while it sometimes attracts a touristic crowd, it’s typically an in-the-know one. I recommend going off-piste and asking your bartender to come up with something special from the gorgeously-curated cabinet of Armagnacs, Cognacs, vermouths, bitters and eaux-de-vie … (37 Rue Saint-Sauveur, +33 1 4508 8809; experimentalevents.com) AVANT-GARDE From the outside, Le Syndicat looks like a long-forgotten piece of retail detritus; inside the vibe is 1970s futuristic. The best place to sit – always for this writer – is at the bar, where earwigging in on the knowledgeable staff, eager to share their expertise, is the order of the day. Stick with the cocktails, most run at around €10. (51 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis; syndicatcocktailclub.com) ECLECTIC Take the Métro to Jacques Bonsergent and it’s a ten-minute walk across Canal Saint-Martin to one of the city’s most interesting bars. Le Comptoir Général is the sprawling, colonially dressed homage to FrenchAfrican and Caribbean culture. Expect cabinets of stuffed animals and trinkets of antiquity, plus a healthy smattering of greenery in creeping and hanging plants. (80 Quai de Jemmapes, +33 1 4488 2448; lecomptoirgeneral.com)

EAT

VENERABLE Polidor has been feeding locals (and luminaries – filmmaker René Clair, painter Max Ernst and writer James Joyce were regulars) since 1845. The reasons for its longevity are blatant. The menu comprises the French

bistro’s all-time greatest hits – lentil soup with foie gras, beef bourguignon, tarte tatin, steak frites. But food aside, perhaps the real star of the show here is the intangible Parisian ambience, which always feels authentic.

A merveilleux experience. (41 Rue Monsieur Le Prince, +33 1 4326 9534; polidor.com) BRAND NEW Take your fill of creative cocktails through the lens of seasonality and terroir at Kouto, near the Bonne Nouvelle Métro stop. Recently opened, the long bar is already attracting an eclectic crowd of bon vivants for a drinks and food menu that’s as thoughtful as it is enticing. And while admittedly the main focus is on drinks, their daily boards comprising all French ingredients are certainly worth the trip. (40 Rue d’Enghien, +33 6 4928 2845; kouto.business.site) FLAVOURFUL Down the street from Kouto, Bonhomie is also a shoo-in. Smart and attractive, again a long bar dominates. As the name might suggest, this restaurant is staffed by warm, hospitable folk, who are passionate about what they do. The menu is a selection of flavourful blockbusters, described as “Mediterranean with a modern twist”, with a commendable focus on vegetarian dishes.

Try the stracciatella di bufala with fermented raisins, candied lemon and bottarga – it’s a knockout. Cocktails are impressive too. (22 Rue d’Enghien, +33 9 8388 8251; bonhomie.paris)

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to PARIS up to five times daily, and from Cork daily.

Druids Glen Corporate Golf Subscription Druids Glen is one of Ireland’s premier golf resorts. Let your clients and business partners experience the tranquillity of the mystical Druids Glen, with manicured tree-lined fairways, historical landmarks, spectacular water features and vibrant floral displays.

• Any company representative can • Access to a range of midweek • Access to a range of private play golf Monday to Friday at golf competitions. dining options for your clients.

Druids Glen or Druids Heath.

• Complimentary meeting room • Complimentary tickets to any • Guest green fees on both courses hire at Druids Glen Clubhouse, major competitions hosted at for client entertainment or a Woodstock House.

Druids Glen. corporate golf day.

• Terms & Conditions apply.

Nestled in 400 acres between the Wicklow Mountains and the Irish Sea, yet only forty minutes from Dublin Airport. Druids Glen offers 145 spacious guestrooms and suites, eight conference and event spaces, a range of dining options, along with a Spa, Health Club and two championship golf courses, Druids Glen and Druids Heath.

Contact Karen Kelly for further information.

E: karen.kelly@druidsglenresort.com T: +353 1 287 0859 Druids Glen Hotel & Golf Resort, Newtownmountkennedy, Co. Wicklow, Ireland | www.druidsglenresort.com

5 SUITES

for my Sweet We can all but hope to be whisked away this Valentine’s Day, swoons Lucy White.

KENMARE, IRELAND

SHEEN FALLS LODGE

Co Kerry is world renowned for its natural beauty and Kenmare’s Sheen Falls Lodge is suitably scenic. This five-star Relais & Châteaux hotel is set on a rambling estate of 121 hectares, where guests can even try salmon fishing on its private stretch of the River Sheen. The estate’s once-resident heron has lent its name to the Oscars Suite, which marks the final phase of the Lodge’s two-year refurbishment. And it’s worth the wait.

The open-plan suite has a separate dressing room (living the dream!) and double doors that lead out on to a private terrace overlooking the waterfall of the hotel’s namesake. Tactile tweeds, velvet and soft cotton, while lovely, can’t even compete with that verdant view. The Oscars Suite costs from €1,000 per night, and the adjoining Signature Suite is €640. (Gortnadullagh, Kenmare, 064 664 1600; sheenfallslodge.ie)

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY JODY KIVORT

SMART EDIT | SUITES FOR MY SWEET

NEW YORK, USA

THE WILLIAM VALE

All the rooms at Brooklyn’s super-cool William Vale hotel have floor-to-ceiling windows and open-air balconies overlooking New York’s iconic boroughs. But its Vale Garden Residence Suite takes contemporary luxury to another level – literally. Starting at $12k per night, this duplex stunner boasts 122 sq m of living space, much of it outside, with a swish sun terrace and hot tub.

There are no more words needed here. JUST LOOK AT IT. Smaller suites from $459. (111 N 12th St, Brooklyn, +1 718 631 8400; thewilliamvale.com)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to New York JFK up to twice daily, from Shannon six times per week from March 15, and from Dublin to Newark daily.

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#bar #drinks #food #lunch #cocktails #latefood #urchindublin

FOOD & DRINK

until late

22 ST. STEPHEN'S GREEN |

@UrchinDublin

© HOTEL SACHER

SMART EDIT | SUITES FOR MY SWEET

VIENNA, AUSTRIA

HOTEL SACHER

Royalty, dignitaries and A-listers have all stayed at the Hotel Sacher, from Emperor Franz Joseph to John Lennon. Signalled by a grand façade and dapper doormen – and, usually, a queue of sweet-toothed tourists lining up outside for a slice of the cafe’s famous Sacher-Torte chocolate cake – this five-star has been a Viennese institution since its formidable GM Anna Sacher ran the ostentatious property until her death in

1930, leaving a trail of cigar smoke and beloved French bulldogs in her wake. Subsequent owners have maintained her legacy, its lavish interiors at once luxurious and eminently comforting.

And, contrary to the hotel’s majesty, staff are wonderfully warm and personable, making you feel more like a resident than a guest. Suites from €637. (Philharmoniker Str. 4, +43 1 514 560; sacher.com)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Vienna three times per week, and up to nine times per week from March 25.

LONDON, UK

ROSEWOOD LONDON

Once the headquarters of the not-very-sexy Pearl Assurance Company, the Rosewood London couldn’t be a more seductive prospect if it was dressed in Agent Provocateur and brandishing a chocolate éclair. The internal staircase alone is made from solid Pavonazzo marble and leads up to a five-metre-high cupola. But who needs stairs when you’re staying in the Manor House Suite?

Not only does the 185 sq m crash-pad have its own private entrance with private lift, it also has its own postcode. A more “modest” option is the Garden House Suite, left, at 113 sq m, complete with a rooftop terrace overlooking the rooftops and chimneys. Like Mary Poppins but without the grime. Suites from £542. (252 High Holborn, +44 20 7781 8888; rosewoodhotels.com)

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to London Heathrow up to 14 times daily, from Cork four times daily, from Shannon and Belfast three times daily; and from Dublin to London Gatwick up to seven times daily, and from Knock daily.

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CHEF’S TABLE: It is truly a piece of culinary theatre to dine at the Chef ’s table.

Guests can enjoy engaging with the kitchen at full service or retreating into their own private dining experience.

PRE-THEATRE DINNER: Our pre-theatre menu is available from Tuesday to Saturday starting at 5.30pm to allow guests to reach one of the nearby theatres for 7.30pm.

LUNCH: Lunch is served Tuesday to Friday from 12.30pm-2pm.

Chapter One Restaurant, 18/19 Parnell Square, Dublin 1.

01 873 22 66 info@chapteronerestaurant.com www.chapteronerestaurant.com

SMART EDIT | SUITES FOR MY SWEET

DUBLIN, IRELAND

THE SHELBOURNE

Guests of the Princess Grace Suite at the storied Shelbourne can’t fail to feel like a superstar. From the moment they’re personally collected from the airport to checking out of this expansive, two-bedroom lodging, any notions will be complete. Dublin’s most famous hotel (it was occupied by British troops during the Easter Rising and, in 1922, the Irish Constitution was drafted here) has five suites, but it’s the Princess Grace – or Presidential – that’s the most swish. Order room service to its antique dining table; wallow in the pink marble bathroom or, if you’re feeling particularly diva-esque, let your personal butler unpack your luggage while you quaff the welcome bottle of champagne.

The suite for up to four guests costs €7,500, including breakfast, airport transfers and valet parking. (27 St Stephen’s Green, 01 663 4500; marriott.com)

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DISCOVER THE INTRIGUING TALE OF IRISH WHISKEY!

One Destination

A LIFETIME EXPERIENCE

Voted Guided tours Top 10 Venue hire in Dublin Whiskey tastings Bar and Off licence now open Whiskey & Brunch Experience

Book Online and Save Time • Guaranteed Entry • Great Photo Opportunities • Magical Sunsets

BOOK NOW!

+353 (0) 1 525 0970 WWW.IRISHWHISKEYMUSEUM.IE 119 GRAFTON STREET, DUBLIN 2

• Kids Go Free • See website for opening hours

(OPPOSITE MAIN ENTRANCE OF TRINITY COLLEGE) United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization

Burren and Cliffs of Moher UNESCO Global Geopark

DESTINATION | MIAMI

48 HOURS IN

MIAMI Eoin Higgins rolls up his blazer sleeves, dons shades and mixes it up in Miami.

ART DECO AMBLE The thoroughly enjoyable Art Deco Walking Tour provides curious congregants with an introduction to the Art Deco, Mediterranean Revival and Miami Modern (MiMo) styles found within the Miami Beach Architectural Historic District. Tours are conducted by local historians and architects and depart from the district’s Art Deco Welcome Center. The fast-moving tours are 90 minutes long. mdpl.org SPEED DEMON Departing from Bayside Marketplace in Downtown, the eminently exhilarating Thriller Miami Speedboat Tour offers “the ultimate sightseeing experience in true Miami Vice style”, bringing passengers up close and personal with the homes of Miami’s richest and most famous, as well as a considerable amount of fresh sea spray. thrillermiami.com

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to MIAMI three times per week.

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Drink at . .

Top, bathe watch – take your pick of stunning coastline in and around Miami.

Above, Art Deco design is literally on every corner on South Beach, and left, mural moments in Wynwood.

GRAFFITI ON WHEELS The mission statement of artistowned-and-operated Miami’s Best Graffiti Guide is to spread “the authentic voice of a local artist and provide an inspiring, engaging and educational tour experience”.

It certainly succeeds on this fun, illuminating bike tour of vibrant Wynwood’s baddest burners and most magnificent murals. miamisbestgraffitiguide.com

CUBAN Originally opened in 1935, Ball & Chain is the city’s most photogenic – read social media friendly – joint, but don’t let that put you off, as while the neon sign outside attracts smartphone-toting vacation braggers, inside you’ll find an authentic experience worthy of its Little Havana address. Try the Mojito Criollo, the Canita or the Pastelito Daiquiri … try them all in fact, and add their superb Cuban sandwich for ballast. (1513 SW 8th Street; ballandchainmiami.com) COCKTAILS Slickly dressed rebel-rouser Blackbird Ordinary is a very late-night (early next morning) bar that specialises in generously mixed cocktails. The atmosphere is dark and decadent and accompanied musically by a roster of engaging acts, such as reggae ragamuffins Lalibela Band or hiphop honcho DJ Bounce. Saturday nights are raucous fun. (729 SW 1st Avenue, +1 305 671 3307; blackbirdordinary.com)

1980S “A neighbourhood bar with great food, cocktails, music and vibes,” says the 1980s-loving The Anderson. The food itself is worthy of your attention, from the addictive nacho fries to the tartly scrumptious maraschino bread pudding.

Like its super-cool clientele, the decor is no retiring type either. (709 NE 79th Street, +1 305 757 3368; theandersonmiami.com)

PHOTOGAPHS COURTESY OF AL HIGGINS

Don't miss . .

Sleep at . .

ARTY The Betsy’s breezy, bright rooms provide an apt backdrop to a tropical-luxe Miami experience. A 61-room, boutique-style hotel, the Betsy has its own dedicated artist exhibition space, as well as a writers’ room and a plethora of beautiful, black and white photography prints lining its creative corridors. Service with a smile and topclass culinary options. Rooms from $249.

(1440 Ocean Drive, +1 305 531 6100; thebetsyhotel.com)

SUITE DEALS The “all-suites” Grand Beach Hotel Miami sits its massive hulk right on the edge of the Atlantic Ocean in South Beach, overlooking a swathe of white sand. Offering comfort – constantly within reach – with seven pools, a gym with a panoramic sunset view and two full bathrooms in every room, alongside private balconies revealing ocean, bay and/ or cityscape views. Rooms from $339. (4835 Collins Avenue, +1 305 538 8666; miamihotelgrandbeach.com)

LUXE STUFF Celebrating the city as the “world’s gateway to Latin America”, Four Seasons Hotel Miami rises as a pillar of dreamlike luxury above the city skyline in the heart of Downtown Miami. With complimentary fitness classes, an inhouse spa, an award-winning restaurant and one hectare of resort-style pool terrace – with hammock service, private cabanas and chaise longues, the hotel is the epitome of Miami luxury and gives a memorable experience. Rooms from $239. (1435 Brickell Avenue, +1 305 358 3535; fourseasons.com)

VILLA AZUR

Clockwise from top right, The Betsy’s subterranean B Bar hosts art exhibitions, live music and spoken word events; swing when you’re winning at the Four Seasons; only the finest dining at Villa Azur, and left, you’ll want a lock-in at the Ball & Chain for its superb cocktails.

Eat at . .

EAT AND BE SEEN One of the more visually striking restaurants in the hip Wynwood neighbourhood, Wynwood Kitchen & Bar features original artwork by some of the greatest graffiti artists on the scene.

For eats, think top-shelf Mexican-inspired dishes and bites – the shrimp tacos are well worth trying – and a cool drinks selection for those looking to chill in the tropical heat.

(2550 NW 2nd Avenue, +1 305 722 8959; wynwoodkitchenandbar.com) BRUNCH SCENE Edge Steak & Bar is the number one destination for the city’s most flavoursome brunch beaus and babes, and a must-visit for any Miami newbie or seasoned returnee. The indoor-outdoor space offers indigenous seafood and locally sourced fruits and vegetables in a modern, highly comfortable space under the watchful eye of chef Aaron Brooks. The brunch buffet is what dreams are made of. (1435 Brickell Avenue, +1 305 381 3190; edgerestaurantmiami.com) CHIC VIBES Villa Azur offers tantalising French/Med dishes prepared with an Italian twist – food that can be paired with the superb wines from the in-house wine cellar, La Cave d’Azur, or with a signature cocktail.

The restaurant exudes elegance, welcoming guests to dine inside or in the charming, balmy courtyard. (309 23rd Street, Miami Beach, +1 305 763 8688; villaazurmiami.com)

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ON BUSINESS

Making travel work for you

PHOTOGRAPH BY EOIN HIGGINS

HAMBURG

110 STRASSE SMARTS Gleaming Hamburg is a hive of activity for both multinationals and innovative startups, finds an impressed Eleanor Ross.

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THE LINE DC, ETC Melanie Mullan scopes out The Line hotel group’s latest offering in Washington DC, plus new digs in London, Seattle and Warsaw.

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A DAY IN THE LIFE Architect Damien Murtagh turned an industry tool into Arckit, a best-selling STEM toy for kids. We find out how.

120 SIX THINGS I’VE LEARNT Swapping a career in tech marketing for holistic health, Elbowroom’s Lisa Wilkinson has had quite the journey.

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Business

PHOTOGRAPH BY EOIN HIGGINS

E

very surface in Downtown Hamburg shines. From frosted glass on the windows of private banks, to the polish of leather shoes along the glittering pavements that skirt the sparkling Inner Alster lake, Hamburg is a city that gleams with success and confidence.

As well as being home to the world’s second oldest bank (Berenberg) and countless headquarters of world-class businesses, it has been one of Europe’s most important ports since the Middle Ages. With just over 1.8 million residents, it’s a manageable and pretty city, carved into distinctive districts, each worth exploring in its own right.

But for all the history, Hamburg is bent on modernisation, with a whole new district, HafenCity, under construction. Throw in the largest Japanese garden in Europe, a buzzy restaurant scene and Sternschanze, a hip area teeming with entrepreneurs, coffee-fuelled co-working spaces and art galleries, and you’ve a city with more facets than the Elbphilharmonie, Hamburg’s innovative concert hall.

NAMESAKE It’d be rude to go to Hamburg and not have a hamburger.

Brooklyn Burger Bar, left, was opened by two friends who met in New York City, but the burgers, sides and condiments are rooted in Hamburg. The pair transformed an old apothecary in the Fischmarkt into a cool, industrial space, where even condiments are made from scratch. There are vegan and vegetarian options and the buzz makes you want to linger long after your last bite. (Alter Fischmarkt 3, +49 40 3499 4866; brooklynburgerbar.de)

EAT

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SUPREME Anna Sgroi holds one of Hamburg’s eight Michelin stars, but that’s not the only reason to stop at her 1897 timber house. From the outside, it brings to mind yet another heavy, Germanic restaurant, but inside, it’s all sweetness and light. Moroccan floor tiles set the stage for elevated Italian cuisine in which blueberries are added to risotto, and white halibut is beautifully paired with ginger and spring onions. It’s the sort of place you bring clients when you want them to know you have excellent taste. (Milchstrasse 7, +49 40 2800 3930; annasgroi.de)

IN-THING Fashionable Restaurant Nil rocks a vibe you want to be part of. Come in summer for the pretty, tree-shaded terrace, and winter for the restaurant’s striking internal architecture, comfortable seating and a light touch on traditionally heavy Hanseatic specialities.

Potato soup is laced with white truffles, while saddles of deer and other gamey meats are all sourced from local farms and bolstered by perfectly seasoned veg. Added bonus: an innovative German wine list. (Neuer Pferdemarkt 5, +49 40 439 7823; restaurant-nil.de)

CLASSY If you’ve come to Hamburg looking to have your socks blown off by some fine Baltic cookery and a dreamy river view, look no further than Jahreszeiten Grill.

Located in the Fairmont Hotel, it has some of the finest Art Deco interiors in the city, which only enhance the taste. It opened in 1926 and dishes are as classic as the decor: oysters on ice, Atlantic lobster and clear beef consommé. There’s also a fabulous wine list served in the sort of environment you could sink into, clink a glass of red and never leave. (Neuer Jungfernstieg 9-14, +49 40 3494 3312; hvj.de)

GET SMART

STRASSE SMARTS

SHARE PACKAGE Located in the heart of Hamburg, Mindspace, below, is a co-sharing wünderkind, with stark brick walls, leather-backed sofas, high-speed internet, wide desks, 24/7 access, oh, and even a soda-fountain. (Rödingsmarkt 9, +49 800 646 377 223; mindspace.me)

Hamburg gleams with confidence and commerce, its young entrepreneurs trading side-byside with multinationals, finds Eleanor Ross.

PEP WALK Hamburg is a coffeelover’s paradise – the first coffee house opened here in 1677 and beans have been traded for more than 200 years. In short, there’s a place selling (strong) coffee on almost every corner. Among the best include Playground Coffee (playground-coffee.com) in the Rotherbaum District and also Less Political (hermeticcoffee. com), in the hip ’hood of Schanzenviertel, where punters can choose one of six ways that their coffee is prepared.

ARRIVALS Hamburg Airport is connected by the city’s fast, modern, metro service, the S1 S-Bahn. Passengers can travel from the airport to Hamburg Hauptbahnhof (Central Station) in just 25 minutes, with trains running every ten minutes.

There’s an S-Bahn (overground), four U-Bahn (underground) lines, a light suburban railway, plenty of buses and six ferry routes.

SMART FLIERS AER LINGUS flies from Dublin to HAMBURG eight times per week.

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Business

SLEEP

SWISH Managed by the same people who run the grand Louis C Jacob hotel on Hamburg’s Alster Lake, Henri Hotel, right – a former tea merchant’s house – is a stylish choice on a cobbled street in the central Altstadt district. Packed with character, it also has luxurious touches: a rooftop spa, complete with a Finnish sauna, to take the edge off Hamburg winters. The huge reception area doubles up as breakfast lounge, cocktail bar and library, so there are plenty of places to entertain without even leaving the hotel. (Bugenhagenstrasse 21, +49 40 554 357 557; henri-hotel.com)

SLICK Side Hotel, left, ticks all the right boxes for business travellers looking for style and convenience. Caffeine addicts will be satisfied with the Nespresso machines in every bedroom, while comfort comes in the form of robes, waffle slippers and Ren toiletries. There are six conference and events spaces, while late arrivals will be well-served by the Meatery restaurant, which does a roaring trade in steaks. Rooms from €144. (Drehbahn 49, +49 40 309 990; side-hamburg.de)

VALUE The 25Hours Hotel, right, based in HafenCity, Hamburg’s shiny new riverside neighbourhood, is based on the concept of a ship and offers a pretty good deal for business customers. Rooms are called cabins and, while some do have bunkbeds, most are private en suites that come with king- and queen-size beds, free Wi-Fi, bike rental and a gratis test drive of their resident Mini. These are stylish rooms, with big windows that overlook the Elbe offering a great sense of the city.

Rooms from €89. (Überseeallee 5, +49 40 257 7770; 25hours-hotels.com)

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Investing in Ireland offers a continuing business presence within the EU and a gateway for Europe and beyond. With a pro-business approach, talented workforce and favourable tax regime, you will be in good company in Ireland, with leading firms in IT, pharma, MedTech, R&D, financial services and advanced manufacturing sectors already well established and flourishing here.

Talk to our tax team about the opportunities for growing your presence in Ireland.

Alan Connell Partner and Head of Tax Group +353 1 6644 217 alanconnell@eversheds-sutherland.ie

eversheds-sutherland.ie

Business

CEO INSIDER…

In 2013, Hamburg’s Tessa Gerlach and her husband Robin co-founded Elephant Gin, a handcrafted dry gin packed with botanicals from the African savanna, including baobab, buchu and the floral wormwood. The pair started the business as their way of supporting African wildlife: 15 per cent of the proceeds from every bottle sold goes to the Big Life Foundation and the Space for Elephants Foundation.

Where are the best places for working remotely in Hamburg? For quick Wi-Fi and a lovely, friendly working environment – Public Coffee Roasters, based in Neustadt (Wexstrasse 28, +49 176 9317 1580; publiccoffeeroasters.com).

The owners really know their coffee and they have their own roast facility in the shop, too.

Speaking of coffee, do you have a favourite coffee shop for taking

clients to? My favourite is Elbgold Lagerstrasse (Lagerstrasse 34c, +49 40 2351 7520; elbgoldshop.com), a lightflooded space in Schanze, a super-trendy Hamburg neighbourhood. It has its own roasting area, lots of seating and there’s a huge selection of cakes and delicacies – the bagels are particularly good.

And restaurants? I love Atelier F (Grosse Bleichen 31, +49 40 3501 5215; atelierf.eu), which is a mix of French and American cuisine. The menu says “Liberty, equality, and damn good food” – spot-on. There are burgers, a bar and five rooms that all feel a little bit different.

If someone has a few spare hours in the city, where should they go?

The Rathaus, for sure, as it’s a pretty impressive building, and the harbour.

It’s a great place to walk around in summer, especially as bars spill out along the water’s edge. You can see the Elbphilharmonie too, which is the new concert hall and pretty striking to look at.

Above, Robin and Tessa Gerlach, whose gin doesn’t only fuel wild nights but also funds wildlife. Left, hot tip – Public Coffee Roasters; below, eclectic interiors at Atelier F; bottom left, Hamburg’s monumental Rathouse.

Fly return to Hamburg from Dublin for 15,000 Avios points. Remember, if you don’t have enough points to fly to where you want to go, you can use those that you have and pay the rest in cash*.

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*BASED ON RTN FLIGHTS IN OFF-PEAK PERIOD, EXCL. TAXES AND CHARGES.

Tell me a bit more about Hamburg’s startup environment. There are lots of startup community working hubs that have been created in the past few years (think WeWork). Elephant Gin is part of a food-community of startups with local food delivery service Frischepost, a vertical farming project called Farmers Cut and an apple juice manufacturer Leev. Our offices are near the so-called “Grossmarkt” – the wholesale fruit and vegetable market – so it really feels like we’re part of a local community.

With 750 experts, we are the only commercial real estate contact you need.

www.cbre.ie

Business Hotel

HIGH PRAISE

Jet setters in Washington DC can find salvation in a converted church, finds Melanie Mullan.

culinary inspiration from the multi-ethnic neighbourhood for Brothers and Sisters, A Rake’s Progress and Spoken English.

Washington DC’s musical heritage is best known over in the U Street corridor, which was a hotbed of jazz in the first half of the 1900s. But The Line takes music very seriously, with the Full Service Radio station broadcasting live, daily, from the lobby, where church organ pipes have been repurposed into a chandelier. As well as championing DC music acts, the hotel also showcases artworks by local female artists across the property.

And, if after all that culinary and music stimuli you need a breather … each guest room contains its own micro-library, with reads from the nearby Idle Times bookstore.

Rooms from $268 per night. (1770 Euclid Street NW, +1 202 588 0525; thelinehotel.com)

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ADRIAN GAUT

T

he funky, multicultural neighbourhood of Adams Morgan has always attracted creative types, thanks to its relatively inexpensive cost of living and accessibility to the rest of the city. Less than 40 minutes from Washington Dulles Airport and around five kilometres from Union Station, it’s unsurprising that the Sydell hotel group chose this emerging district for its latest Line Hotel after successes in LA’s Koreatown and Downtown Austin, Texas. This, though, is a particularly heavenly prospect: the 22-room hotel is in a converted, 110-year old neoclassical church.

This is a neighbourhood that never sleeps, with nearby bars and diners tantalisingly close. But there’s a lot to be gained from never passing the hotel’s threshold: three of its eateries are run by not one, but two James Beard-recognised chefs – Spike Gjerde and Erik Bruner-Yang, who derive

3 NEW CRIBS ON THE BLOCK

LONDON Making a fashionably late arrival, the Principal London will surely be worth the wait when it opens its doors in spring 2018. The Grade II listed building has a striking terracotta exterior with 334 equally eye-catching rooms, thanks to its interior designers Tara Bernerd & Partners and Russell Sage Studio ensuring that the Bloomsbury neighbourhood’s heritage is celebrated in a contemporary reboot.

Rooms from £225. (1-8 Russell Square, +44 20 7837 6470; phcompany.com) 116 |

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SEATTLE The paint has barely dried on the new Moxy Seattle Downtown, which is flanked by Amazon offices, offering a clue as to its clientele. An offshoot of the Marriott group, the Moxy brand is aimed at millennials: cue a giant video wall in the “Play and Meet” lobby, while elevators are selfie stations, complete with props. Guest rooms have a similar vibe to Ace Hotels, with clean lines and wall hooks for wardrobes. Rooms from $161. (1016 Republican St, +1 206 708 8200; moxy-hotels.marriott.com)

WARSAW In true Raffles fashion, they’ve taken a historic landmark – in this case, the Raffles Europejski, a hotel that dates back to 1857 and in the late 19th century was frequented by artists and poets – and restored it for upscale travellers. The 106-room, five-star establishment opens on the city’s Royal Route this spring, and combines fin de siècle elegance with contemporary sophistication. Room rates TBC. (Krakowskie Przedmiescie 13, +48 22 255 9500; raffles.com)

NEW FUNDS APPOINTMENTS Arthur Cox is pleased to announce the arrival of three senior partners to its Asset Management and Investment Funds Group.

Doubling in size, the Arthur Cox funds team will be led by Tara O’Reilly and the current head Kevin Murphy.

L-R: Kevin Murphy, Sarah Cunniff, Ian Dillon, Tara O’Reilly, Cormac Commins, Brian O’Gorman (Managing Partner) and Dara Harrington.

Ireland Law Firm of the Year 2017 Chambers Europe Awards

www.arthurcox.com

Business

I LOVE VISITING …

A DAY IN THE LIFE Irish architect Damien Murtagh originally created Arckit for his peers to make scaled professional models with, but when the kids took a shine to it, his product became one of the hottest STEM learning toys on the market. He works between Dublin and the international toy and education fairs. arckit.com 6.30am It’s all hands on deck as my wife Shana and I have breakfast with our children Kai (13), Sienna (ten) and Robyn (six), prep school lunches, bags and get everyone out the door.

Shana does the school run, while I walk to work in Dublin city centre, which takes up to an hour but it really helps clear my head.

8.30am I arrive at Arckit HQ and try to get through the first batch of emails before the team arrives and the chatter starts. We all sit around one large co-working table so we can bounce ideas off one another and make decisions promptly. Being a startup company, every day involves a lot of multitasking: I could be chatting with a STEM (science, technology, engineering and maths) teacher, while designing a new box and emailing buyers from Harrods all at the same time.

It’s manic but that’s also what makes it so exciting.

10.30am I nip out to The Punnet on Mount Street for a coffee break but invariably end up scrolling through Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. Social media is such an important platform for marketing, but three years ago I didn’t even have a Facebook account so I’ve really had to put in the leg-work to get up to speed. We’ve worked hard to connect with the press, bloggers, influencers and YouTube channels that matter to our audience and their autonomous reviews and support have been critical to Arckit’s success. I try to post updates a couple of times a day – coming up with engaging content is half the battle but our colourful bricks

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DUBROVNIK I first visited as a boy in 1980, when Tito was still in power, and I was spellbound: the coastline, castles, islands, the Adriatic – they were straight out of a fairy tale. I’ve been back to Croatia many times since and, although politically it’s changed dramatically, it’s still one of the most timeless places on Earth.

and components lend themselves to good visuals, so our senior designer and I spend a bit of time creating new buildings and cityscapes.

1pm America is just waking up and Barnes & Noble is one of our biggest accounts (we’re in 450 stores).

We’ve rolled out in lots of innovative retailers in the US, too, like b8ta, MoMa, the Guggenheim and Smithsonian museums, so I typically spend time catching up on overnight developments, checking in with Amazon.

2pm After lunch I try to allocate a decent window to research and development, which could be anything from designing new concepts, 3D printing ideas, tooling, packaging or improving the website experience. Arckit is only four years young, so it’s a continually evolving product.

4pm All our parts are made in Ireland, which is something that the team and I are incredibly proud of – Arckit is 100 per cent Irish. I often nip down to the Automatic Plastics factory in Co Wicklow, who we work with, to check samples or to see how production is coming along.

7pm I take the bus home around now, as Dublin rush hour traffic is not worth the hassle. My day is often easy compared to Shana’s, who juggles helping out with the Arckit admin and accounts with being the kids’ taxi driver, chef and house cleaner. After homework and bedtime rituals, it’s back to answering emails for an hour or so.

NEW YORK We fly to NYC every February to exhibit at the international Toy Fair and I always take time to check out any new architectural works. New York is having a building renaissance with the likes of Tadao Ando, Zaha Hadid, Bjarke Ingels and Herzog & de Meuron redefining the city’s skyline once again. I also never leave without a visit to my favourite music venue in the world, Smalls Jazz Club in Greenwich Village.

VENICE I’ve fond memories of Venice and the Veneto region where I lived and worked for a few years in the 1990s. I cut my design teeth there under renowned architect Toni Follina. I’m looking forward to going to the Venice Biennale [May 26 to November 25], which is curated this year

by Dublin’s very own Grafton Architects, Yvonne Farrell and Shelley McNamara.

Dublin & Belfast

8 locations in Ireland

Family-run business

Flexible workspace & coworking

creating space for business to grow glandore.ie | info@glandore.ie | @glandorenetwork Dublin: +353 (0) 1 669 4700 | Belfast: +44 (0) 28 9044 7100

Business

6 THINGS I’VE LEARNT lisa’s

4 LIOSA McNAMARA

Learn how to meditate The constant voices in our heads can be akin to unwanted flatmates banging on about all sorts of madness. You can learn to quieten them down by using a whole gamut of different meditation techniques, from noting your thoughts to following your breath. Just ten minutes a day can make a huge difference. And as the old saying goes, if you can’t find ten minutes a day, you need to spend an hour …

In 2003, LISA WILKINSON waved goodbye to the tech world by launching The Elbowroom (the-elbowroom.com), a multidisciplinary holistic and healthcare centre in Dublin aimed at empowering women through fitness and wellbeing.

More recently she opened The Elbowroom Escape in Co Wicklow, which hosts all-year-round retreats and teambuilding weekends (the-elbowroomescape.com).

1

Treat your life like a well You need to keep it full at all times and not let anyone or anything empty it. Prioritise your own interests by refusing unimportant requests – learn to say NO. We overcommit to so many activities, favours and tasks that we literally drain ourselves.

To help avoid this, get a creative hobby and satisfy the right side of your brain, something that’s nothing to do with work, where you can escape for a few hours.

For me it has been pottery and playing the cello. I can lose myself shaping clay for hours. It has literally saved me from the endless stressors that life can throw.

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2

Consider an acquaintance cull There are some people in your life you may have a lingering sense of obligation to but they do nothing but take from you. Spend your time wisely with friends who give time and friendship generously.

3

Protect your mental wealth. If you feel like you are losing it, or drop your basket completely, seek out a good psychotherapist. Try a couple of therapists if the first doesn’t work for you, as they all have different ways of working.

5

You are as old as your spine Yoga for me has been the constant in my life, keeping me young and nubile. With 15-years-plus of running The Elbowroom in Dublin, I shudder when I see 20-year-olds as stiff as an ironing board with limited movement. Rather than spend your later years in pain, do yoga. It ticks all the boxes. Move your body – motion is lotion for your joints and, as a moving meditation, you gain resilience against mental health issues.

6

Acts of random kindness go a long way Without exhausting yourself, do something small and spontaneous for someone who is not expecting it, for that mutual feel-good factor.

Go on. Smile at the person next to you. Ask them how their day was. Buy them a gin and tonic. Unless they are a child. That would be bad.

SMART CITY

DESTINATION I love MálagaCentro as it is typically Spanish, has great food at great value prices and has the most amazing architecture.

Oh, and it has a beach. Heaven.

EAT I love La Peregrina Centro, a fish and shellfish tapas bar. Their product is fresh and inexpensive, while the atmosphere is casual and fun. There’s a great wine selection, with many good quality labels from Málaga. This is also the place where I discovered MOM Gin! (Calle Madre de Dios, 17, +34 952 606 676)

CHILL I usually stay at my friends’ apartment but YP Málaga has great options for yoga and pilates retreats (yogaandpilatesinmalaga.com). It’s run by Susan Church, who I hang out with when I visit. I also go to the amazing El Hammam & Spa (Calle Tomás de Cózar, 13, +34 952 221 138; elhammamspa.com).

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Málaga up to 11 times per week, and from Cork up to four times per week.

DUBLIN 14

An Unparalled Lifestyle

at South Dublin’s finest address Knockrabo is a prestigious development of houses and apartments set amidst acres of exquisite parkland positioned on a stunning elevated site with views of the sea & the city. Residents will be able to enjoy a number of on-site facilities including a library lounge, meeting room and exclusive gym*, all for private use of the residents, in addition to the abundance of natural trails lined with 200 year old protected trees.

Luxurious 1, 2 & 3 bed apartments & penthouses launching from our on-site marketing suite in Summer 2018. Prime South Dublin location close to Dublin’s finest schools, UCD, Mount Merrion, Stillorgan and Dundrum villages with an abundance of amenities on offer.

Register your interest today, contact DNG New Homes on 01 4912600.

Above images are artist impressions for indicative purposes only. *The gym, library lounge and meeting rooms are subject to planning permission.

PSL No. 002049

For over 175 years everyone has enjoyed a warm Irish Welcome in The Temple Bar.

17 2w0 inner

Lovers of whiskey have enjoyed Irelands largest whiskey collection, complimented with live Irish music sessions daily at the friendliest spot in Dublin.

OURLM FI TOP O CE H CPAGEI131

Inflight Sit back, relax and let Aer Lingus look after your inflight comfort and entertainment. Enjoy delicious food, the latest box office movie releases, a wide range of shopping and news from Aer Lingus.

Flying with Aer Lingus 124 Welcome On Board 126 Your Comfort and Safety 140 Flight Connections 142 Our Route Networks 146 Connecting to Wi-Fi Inflight Entertainment 130 Box Office Movies 132 Movie Classics 134 TV Shows 136 Boxsets 138 Music & Radio

AERLINGUS.COM |

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Welcome On Board Flying with Aer Lingus means you will experience excellent customer service, comfort and, of course, safety. There’s plenty for you to enjoy on board and, on the following pages, you will discover how we’ll be taking care of you. After all, we’re here to help you make the most of your flight. If you have any special requests, be sure to let us know.

In touch with Aer Lingus If you are availing of Wi-Fi on your flight today, why not let us know what you’re up to on board and where you are going.

Take a photo and post it to our Facebook page. Let us know how you’re enjoying your flight on Snapchat or Instagram. Chat to us on Twitter where you’ll also find the latest flight information. View our videos of milestone events, festivals, sponsorships and campaigns on YouTube.

Why not try spea king a few words of the native language while you are visiting Irelan d!

Fáilte Welcome Dia dhuit Hello Slán go fóill Good bye ...is ainm dom My name is.. .

Conas atá tú? Ho w are you?

Tá mé go maith I’m good Sláinte! Cheers Go raibh maith agat Thank you Gabh mo leithsc éal Excuse me Cara Friend

Guests with wheelchair requirements If you require a wheelchair to help you reach or depart from the plane, then we’re here to help you. Your comfort and safety are our priority, so please let us know at least 48 hours in advance and we will look after you.

When contacting us you will need your booking reference number.

Assistance Contact Details specialassistance@aerlingus.com

Aer Lingus is proud to be recognised as Ireland‘s only 4-star airline, awarded by Skytrax, the world‘s leading airline and airport review specialists.

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Ireland (0818) 365 011 09:00–17:00 Mon–Fri 10:00–16:00 Sat & Sun 10:00–16:00 Bank Holidays UK (0871) 718 20 21 Europe +353 1 886 8333 USA (516) 622 4222

Do he n y & Nes bi t t 4 / 5 L O W E R B A G G O T S T R E E T, D U B L I N

Food served all Day, Breakfast Lunch & Dinner Live music Every Sunday and Monday from 8pm Private function rooms available

Vo overted all

best pub in A Dublin Landmark…

the Irelan Irelahospitad in nd aw lity ards

One of Dublin’s oldest pubs, situated in the heart of Dublin City Centre.

Doheny & Nesbitts is a haunt for many of the country’s leading politicians, sports and media personalities with bars and function rooms over three levels. Why not sample the finest in Irish food and drink.

Come and enjoy the craic and the banter in Doheny & Nesbitts - A must for any trip to Dublin.

W: www.dohenyandnesbitts.ie T: 00353 (0) 1 6762945 E: info@themangangroup.ie

Portable Electronic Devices You can use portable electronic equipment on flights but some devices can interfere with aircraft equipment, creating potential safety risks. Knowing how to set up your device for flight use and when to switch it on and off are therefore very important. Please note that certain devices may not be used.

Your Comfort and Safety When you fly with us, you want to know that we’re looking after your comfort and safety at all times.

We are. It is our number one priority and our crew are trained to ensure you reach your destination as relaxed as you need to be.

In return, we ask for your attention when it comes to safety announcements and knowing when, and how, to turn on your mobile, smartphone or portable device.

To avail of our Wi-Fi and Mobile Network, on our A330 aircraft, devices must be switched off flight mode – once our crew advise it is safe to do so.

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Are you ready for take-off and landing?

• Is your mobile phone and/ or other portable electronic device in flight mode?

• Is your seatback fully upright?

• Is your armrest down?

• Is your tabletop stowed?

• Have you stored your bags in the overhead locker or under the seat in front of you?

To use your mobile phone and all other portable electronic devices during taxi, take-off or landing, they must be switched to flight mode or the flight safe setting.

If you wish to use your phone during your flight, please make sure you select flight safe mode before your phone is powered off. Please note, if your device does not have a flight safe mode it may not be used on your flight.

After landing and only when crew have advised that it is safe to do so, you are permitted to use your mobile phone, provided it is within easy reach. You must remain seated with your seatbelt fastened and follow the instructions of the cabin crew.

Devices permitted at any time Devices powered by micro battery cells and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.

Devices permitted inflight only* Laptops, portable CD-players, mini-disk players, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers and electronic toys. For the comfort of other guests, audio devices should be used with a headset. If using laptops inflight please select flight safe mode before takeoff. *Not permitted during taxi/take-off/ initial climb/approach/landing.

Devices prohibited at all times Devices transmitting radio frequency intentionally such as walkie-talkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and mini-disk recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN).** **Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.

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EMAIL: info @dawsonjewellers.ie

Your Comfort and Safety Here are a few tips to make your journey more comfortable: Keep moving: On longer flights particularly, try to change your sitting position regularly and avoid crossing your legs. Take a walk in the cabin once the seat belt sign is off as this will get your circulation going and refresh your legs.

Ear care: Cabin pressure changes can be painful, particularly if you have a cold, sinusitis or existing ear problems. If you experience these problems during the flight, have a chat to our cabin crew.

Drink up: Keep yourself hydrated throughout the flight by drinking plenty of water.

Eye care: If you are a regular contact lens wearer, it is a good idea to bring your glasses with you in case your eyes feel dryer than usual.

Time zones: Help beat jet lag by setting your watch to your destination’s time when you arrive on board. This will help you adjust to the new time zone faster.

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A safe flight for everyone. It is worth repeating that your safety – and that of everyone on board – is our number one priority therefore we ask that you:

Please pay attention to the cabin crew while they demonstrate the use of safety equipment before takeoff, and we strongly recommend that you read the safety instruction card in the seat pocket in front of you.

Airbus 319

Safety For your áilteacht Fógra Sábh Sécurité Pour votre Siche rheit Für ihre Seguridad Para su a Sicurezza Per la vostr

Please do

e from Aircra

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Airbus 330

-200

For your Safety

Fógr a Sábh áilteacht Pour votre Sécurité Für ihre Siche rheit Para su Seguridad

• Please pay attention to instructions given to you by the cabin crew.

• Do not consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or another guest (including Duty Free alcohol purchased from Boutique). It is illegal to do so.

not remov

Per la vostr a Sicurezza Säke rhet omb ord Sikke rhet om bord Sikke rhed om bord Pleas e do

ON Airplane

ON Airplane

not remo

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Aircraft

Mode

Mode

ON Airplane Mode

ON Airplane Mode

• Do not interrupt cabin crew while they carry out their duties and do not interfere with aircraft equipment.

• We also want to make it clear that Aer Lingus may refuse to allow a guest on board if it is thought that too much alcohol has been consumed.

• Similarly, behaviour or language towards other guests or crew members that is deemed to be threatening or abusive will not be tolerated.

• Taking photographs or video of airline personnel, equipment or procedures is strictly prohibited on board.

• Taking photographs or video of other guests on board without their express consent is prohibited.

• You may take photos or video of guests travelling in your party for your own personal use.

In line with Irish Government regulations, Aer Lingus has a no smoking and no electronic cigarettes policy on board.

These are not permitted in any part of the cabin.

Vi c to r i a n H e r i ta g e P u b Whether you are travelling long haul or short haul a visit to The Long Hall is a must while in Ireland.

Established in 1766 and celebrating 250 years in business this shrine to antiquity is one of Dublin’s oldest, most beautiful and best loved pubs, abundant in traditional charm and exuding genuine Victorian originality. Attentive Bartenders, a warm welcome and a friendly atmosphere await you. Renowned amongst locals for great Guinness.

Try our Limited Edition Powers “The Long Hall” Single Cask Release.

Cask No.11791 was bottled especially for us to mark our 250th Anniversary.

OPEN DAILY AT 12 NOON 51 South Great Georges Street, Dublin 2 | Tel: +353 1 475 1590

Box Office Movies Aer Lingus presents a variety of recently released movies for your enjoyment on board your flight.

Welcome to the international multiplex cinema in the sky.

American Made

R

Atomic Blonde

R

112 mins | Action An American pilot becomes a drug-runner for the CIA. Stars Tom Cruise, Domhnall Gleeson, Sarah Wright

115 mins | Action An undercover agent is sent to Berlin during the Cold War. Stars Charlize Theron, James McAvoy, John Goodman

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

Kingsman: The Golden Circle

R

Loving Vincent

138 mins | Action Two secret organisations band together to defeat an enemy. Stars Taron Egerton, Colin Firth, Mark Strong

95 mins | Biography The story of Van Gogh depicted in oil painted animation. Stars Chris O‘Dowd, Aidan Turner, Saoirse Ronan

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE ES

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Blade Runner 2049 Thirty years after Harrison Ford hung up Deckard‘s trench coat, he is back in this 21st century sequel and with Ryan Gosling‘s special agent in hot pursuit.

Battle of the Sexes

PG13

120 mins | Biography True story of the 1973 tennis match between between Billie Jean King and Bobby Riggs.

Stars Emma Stone, Steve Carell EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

PG13

Murder on the Orient Express

Blade Runner 2049

R

156 mins | Sci-Fi A blade runner discovers a secret about Rick Deckard.

Stars Harrison Ford, Ryan Gosling, Ana de Armas

Patti Cake$

R

90 mins | Documentary A look into the Irish boxer‘s personal and professional journey. Stars Conor McGregor, Arnold Schwarzenegger

EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

PG13

Conor McGregor: Notorious

EN

R

The Hitman‘s Bodyguard

R

113 mins | Mystery A famous detective seeks to solve a murder on a train.

Stars Daisy Ridley, Kenneth Branagh, Michelle Pfeiffer

108 mins | Drama An aspiring rapper fights an unlikely quest for glory.

Stars Danielle MacDonald, Bridget Everett, Siddarth Dhananjay

116 mins | Action A man is called upon to guard the life of his mortal enemy.

Stars Samuel L Jackson, Ryan Reynolds, Gary Oldman

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE IT ES

EN FR DE ES

Goodbye Christopher Robin OUR M L I F A behind-the-scenes TOP ICE HO life of author look atCthe

AA Milne and the creation of the Winniethe-Pooh stories inspired by his son CR Milne.

OUR ILM TOP F ICE CHO

Dunkirk

PG13

Girls Trip

R

106 mins | Action British and Allied troops are surrounded by enemy forces. Stars Fionn Whitehead, Barry Keoghan, Cillian Murphy

122 mins | Comedy Four lifelong friends travel to the Essence Festival. Stars Regina Hall, Queen Latifah, Jada Pinkett Smith

EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

EN FR ES CCEN

Thor: Ragnarok

Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri

PG13

130 mins | Action Held captive, Thor must escape to save Asgard from ruin.

Stars Chris Hemsworth, Tom Hiddleston, Cate Blanchett

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

R

Goodbye Christopher Robin

PG

Home Again

PG13

It

R

97 mins | Comedy A single mom allows three young guys to move in with her. Stars Reese Witherspoon, Nat Wolff, Lake Bell

135 mins | Horror A monster dressed as a clown begins hunting children.

Stars Bill Skarsgård, Jaeden Lieberher, Finn Wolfhard

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN

EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

War for the PG13 Planet of the Apes

Cars 3

107 mins | Biography Life of AA Milne, creator of Winnie-the-Pooh. Stars Domhnall Gleeson, Margot Robbie, Kelly MacDonald

115 mins | Drama A grieving mother confronts the authorities. Stars Frances McDormand, Woody Harrelson

139 mins | Action Caesar begins a mythic quest to avenge his kind.

Stars Andy Serkis, Woody Harrelson, Steve Zahn

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

EN FR DE IT ES CCEN

G

104 mins | KidZone McQueen sets out to prove he‘s still the best race car.

Voiced by Owen Wilson, Cristela Alonzo, Chris Cooper

EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

The LEGO Ninjago Movie

PG

102 mins | KidZone A boy seeks to defeat an evil warlord with his fellow ninjas.

Voiced by Jackie Chan, Dave Franco, Fred Armisen EN FR DE IT ES ADEN CCEN

G General PG Parental Guidance PG13 Parental Guidance. Not suitable for children under 13. R Restricted. Not suitable for children under 18.

Available in EN English FR Français DE Deutsch IT Italiano ES Español CCEN Closed Caption English ADEN Audio Descriptive English ENS English Subtitles AERLINGUS.COM |

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Movie Classics

A selection of classic movies is available on board today along with some popular Irish themed movies such as Brooklyn, Michael Collins and Sing Street. Plus don‘t forget to check out some of our new and awardwinning Irish shorts and features too!

AER LINGUS IRISH FILMMAKER COMPETITION

Albert Nobbs R 112 mins | Stars Glenn Close, Mia Wasikowska, Aaron Taylor-Johnson

Arthur PG13 109 mins | Stars Russell Brand, Helen Mirren, Jennifer Garner

Brooklyn PG13 112 mins | Stars Saoirse Ronan, Emory Cohen

Casino Royale PG13 144 mins | Stars Daniel Craig, Eva Green, Judi Dench

Elf PG 97 mins | Stars Will Ferrell, James Caan, Bob Newhart

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Godzilla PG13 116 mins | Stars Aaron Taylor-Johnson, Elizabeth Olsen

Harry Potter & the Deathly Hallows: P1

Heat R 170 mins | Stars Al Pacino, Robert De Niro, Val Kilmer

Inception PG13 144 mins | Stars Leonardo DiCaprio, Joseph Gordon-Levitt

Fred Claus 116 mins | Stars Vince Vaughn, Paul Giamatti

PG

PG13

140 mins | Stars Daniel Radcliffe

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Michael Collins R 120 mins | Stars Liam Neeson, Aidan Quinn, Julia Roberts

Miracle on PG 34th Street 114 mins | Stars Richard Attenborough

Ocean‘s PG13 Thirteen 122 mins | Stars Brad Pitt, George Clooney

Rise of the PG13 Planet of the Apes 104 mins | Stars James Franco

Rock of Ages PG13 118 mins | Stars Alec Baldwin, Russell Brand, Tom Cruise

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We are delighted to announce the winning short films of the Aer Lingus Irish Filmmaker Competition; Leap of Faith by Jonathan Farrelly, The Lost Letter

by Brian Willis and Goodbye, Darling by Maria-Elena Doyle.

Two of our winners, Goodbye, Darling and The Lost Letter are available for guests to view in our Irish Films section today.

Goodbye, Darling

PG13

11 mins | Drama A love story of an Irish Volunteer in the 1916 Rising.

Stars Aoibhinn McGinnity, Deirdre Donnelly Sherlock PG13 Holmes: A Game of Shadows

Shooting PG13 for Socrates 92 mins | Stars John Hannah, Conleth Hill

Sing Street PG13 106 mins | Stars Ferdia Walsh-Peelo, Maria Doyle Kennedy

The Departed R 145 mins | Stars Leonardo DiCaprio, Jack Nicholson

The Last King of Scotland 122 mins | Stars James McAvoy

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122 mins | Stars Jude Law, Robert Downey Jr

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EN

The Lost Letter The Maltese PG13 Falcon 101 mins | Stars Humphrey Bogart

The Polar G Express 100 mins | Voiced

by Tom Hanks

The Town R 125 mins | Stars Ben Affleck, Rebecca Hall, Jeremy Renner

Training Day R 122 mins | Stars Denzel Washington, Ethan Hawke

21 Jump Street R 110 mins | Stars Jonah Hill, Channing Tatum

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PG

8 mins | Animation A boy tries to spread Christmas cheer. Voiced by Kate Winslet EN

I R I S H S H O R T & F E AT U R E S

Bliain PG13 14 mins | Stars Louise Blair, Hilary Bowen-Walsh, Brittany Boyd

It‘s Not Yet Dark 81 mins | Narrated by Colin Farrell

GAEILGE ENS

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PG

Lava Lisa PG13 10 mins | Stars Grainne Boyle, Sorcha Herlihy, Sam Lucas Smith

Little Doll PG13 13 mins | Stars Ciara Gallagher, Sophie Power, Ciara Glynn

Lost & PG13 Found 15 mins | Stars Caroline Morahan, Lee O‘Donoghue

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Strange PG Occurrences in a Small Irish Village 85 mins | Documentary EN

The PG13 White Rose 6 mins | Stars Stephen O‘Connor, Noelle Clarke

Which Way 4 mins | Animation

EN

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PG13

A boarding school for boys aged 12 to 18 years in Ireland Glenstal Abbey School is a small private school of 250 students, providing consistent high educational standards in a small class setting.

We offer a wide variety of extra-curricular activities, personal pastoral support and a strong sense of community.

Set in 500 acres of parkland in the heart of Munster, 40 minutes from Shannon Airport and 2 hours from Dublin Airport.

Every Day is an Open Day

please do come and see for yourself…

Glenstal Abbey School, Murroe, Co. Limerick, Ireland +353 61 621044 admissions@glenstal.com www.glenstal.com

Open daily for visitors Strong choral tradition

Venue Hire

VISIT IRELAND’S FINEST CATHEDRAL www.stpatrickscathedral.ie

Book now to get 10% off, use discount code: CARA

LIFEST YLE

TV Shows Aer Lingus is home to some of the most anticipated new shows on TV including comedy, drama, documentary, lifestyle, business, sports and kids programmes.

People of Earth People of Earth is a sci-fi comedy series following a sceptical journalist who investigates a support group of alien abductees.

The more he digs into their oddball claims, the more he realises a semblance of truth to their stories and possibly even signs of his own alien abduction that draw him into a web of intrigue. On board is Series 1, Episodes 1 & 2.

BUSINESS

Videojug A selection of how-to videos containing tips and advice on a range of topics including beauty, style, food and drink, money and careers.

C O M E DY

2 Broke Girls S6, EP1 & 2, Max and Sophie waitress in a diner Family Guy S15, EP1 & 2, The series centres on the Griffin family New Girl S5, EP 8 & 9, Jess moves in with three single guys The Big Bang Theory S9, EP9 & 10, A group of brilliant but socially awkward scientists The Middle S8, EP1 & 2, A middle-class family live in Indiana facing the day-to-day struggles Young Sheldon S1, EP1, Nineyear-old Sheldon grows up in Texas | AERLINGUS.COM

2 Dudes & a Kitchen S1, EP2, Two guys make simple meals in ten steps How The Universe Works S5, EP1, A mysterious ninth planet Ireland with Ardal O‘Hanlon S1, EP1, Actor Ardal O‘Hanlon explores Irish life Room to Improve S9, EP4, George and Sinead‘s 1850s coach house The Big House Reborn S1, EP1, The £8m restoration of Mount Stewart in Northern Ireland The Churchills S1, EP1, The story of how Winston Churchill’s ancestor helped him The Gamechangers: Inventing The World S1, EP1, A new generation tackles the world’s greatest challenges The Story of God with Morgan Freeman S1, EP3, Is there some sense of God that all religions share?

Throwing Distance One-Off Special, Irish immigrants who won Olympic medals for the USA Tracks & Trails S7, EP2, Joanna will be exploring trails on the Cavan Burren Way

Clubland S1, EP12, Exploring club traditions of Liverpool FC Dreamteams S1, EP14, The greatest to play for the Chicago Bulls Mobil 1: The Grid S1, EP1, Meet the Porsche Carrera Cup Team Premier League All Time Best XI One-Off Special, What’s what in today’s Premiership football Test My Ride S1, EP1, F1 Ace rider Mika Salo The Immortals S1, EP4, The careers of sport‘s greatest icons K I DZ O N E

Dora the Explorer S7, EP8, Dora and Boots save Thanksgiving Day! Game Shakers S1, EP1, Babe and Kenzie start a gaming company Giving Tales S1, EP1–9, Classic fairy tales by Hans Christian Anderson Justice League Unlimited S2, EP29, Green Lantern, Stargirl, Supergirl and many more!

Learn To Draw ABC Compilation, How a letter of the alphabet can come to life Spongebob Squarepants S7, EP20, SpongeBob adventures Ultimate Spider-Man S2, EP3, Spider-Man stops Rhino‘s vendetta NEWS & EVENTS

In addition to our extensive selection of TV shows, Aer Lingus brings you exclusive weekly news updates, as well as updates from the world of sport.

D O C U M E N TA R Y

Cloud Challenge S1, EP8, Is commerce changing as transactions head into the cloud?

Million Dollar Genius S1, EP1, Turning genius ideas into money Screenland S1, EP1, Changing screen culture around the globe The Ripple Effect S1, EP1, Nick Woodman created the GoPro Trailblazers S1, EP4, Tinie Tempah‘s London ... fashion, music and art Visions Of Greatness S1, EP4, The capacity of human potential

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Brain Games 4 S4, EP3, Judgments and common sense Car SOS 5 S5, EP1, Tim and Fuzz get the rusting Dino back to its best Donal’s Meals in Minutes S1, EP1, Cooking hacks with Donal Skehan Greatest Gardens S1, EP1, Examine three different secret hideaways Hacking the System S1, EP1, How to get out of the trunk of a moving car?

Ireland‘s Oyster Clan S1, EP6, The Louet-Feisser family oyster business Joe Wicks: The Body Coach S1, EP1, Achieve the dream body Lyndey Milan’s Taste of Ireland S1, EP2, Food, landscapes and intriguing culture of Ireland Paul Hollywood‘s City Bakes S1, EP1, The culture of New York Treyvaud Travels S1, EP1, Paul Treyvaud brings you to some iconic Irish locations

SPORT

The Good Place When an undeserving woman finds herself in paradise after being crushed by shopping carts, she is determined to become a better person and therefore worthy of The Good Place with help from friends. However, all is not what it seems in this idyllic afterlife. A smart and hilarious portrayal of one woman‘s life after death. On board is Series 1, Episodes 1 & 2.

MARCO PIERRE WHITE

Historic O’Neill’s

STEAKHOUSE & GRILL DUBLIN

DUBLIN’S FINEST STEAKHOUSE OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK FOR LUNCH AND DINNER

the famous Molly Malone Statue opposite O’Neill’s

Set in the heart of the city, O’Neill’s is one of Dublin’s most famous and historic pubs. When you pay us a visit you will receive a warm welcome and enjoy its ageless character, numerous alcoves, snugs, nooks and crannies.

To make your visit enjoyable we offer you ...

• Extensive Irish Food Menu and Famous • Pour Your Own Pint tables Carvery serving only the finest Irish • Free Wi-Fi to all our Customers Meat, Fish and Vegetables. In fact, • For the whiskey connoisseur there’s Lonely Planet rate us as one of the our Whiskey Bar where you’ll find a Top 5 Places to find ‘Real Irish food fantastic selection of Irish whiskeys in Dublin’ and malts • Irish Music and Traditional Irish • HD and 3D Screens for the Sports Fan Dancing 7 nights-a-week with major international league games.

• Roof-Top Beer Garden and Smoking Area • Our ‘Really Good’ Full Irish Breakfast • Largest selection of local Irish can’t be beaten for quality and value.

Craft Beers on draught in Ireland, 11 items plus tea/coffee, toast, jam representing as many of the local and butter is only €8.95, Pictured Craft Breweries as possible, rotating below. This special offer is available and guesting beers Mon-Fri only, 8am-11.30am.

LATE OPENING FRIDAY & SATURDAY Traditional Irish Music and Dancing 7 nights-a-week.

The Chef carving from a selection of freshly roasted meats at the Carvery.

51 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Ph: 0035316771155 Open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner dawson@marcopierrewhite.ie

NOW OPEN IN DONNYBROOK

Our ‘Really Good’ Breakfast Menu is served 7 days a week.

M.J. O’Neill, Suffolk Street, Dublin 2. Tel. 01 679 3656 www.oneillspubdublin.com Mon-Thurs: 8.00am-11.30pm Fri: 8.00am-12.30am Sat: 8.00am-12.30am Sun: 8.00am-11.00pm SatNav 53.343958, -6.260796

Supper club with live music every Friday night Top 5 places to find Real Irish Food in Dublin

1 Belmont Ave, D 4 Ph: 0035315510555 courtyard@marcopierrewhite.ie

www.marcopierrewhite.ie

Game of Thrones Season 7 R The accomplished cast returns to your screens with a season that packs so much into seven episodes, you’ll be desperate for more!

Boxsets

With all the families from the series converging on Westeros for the first time, the main characters are faced with difficult choices constantly. The questions of loyalty, honour, and trust are brought to the fore as Danaerys, Jon, Sansa, Arya, Sam and Cersei deal with the repercussions of what transpired in the previous season.

Choose from some of the finest boxsets to watch on board today. Delve into the hugely popular Game of Thrones or the dystopian drama The Handmaid‘s Tale. Also on board is the US teen drama Riverdale and the Twin Peaks reboot.

Twin Peaks Season 1

However, while those in Westeros are fighting amongst themselves, an old enemy is approaching the Wall and it seems nothing can stop it. On board are Episodes 1–7, Season 7.

R

Twenty-five years after the inhabitants of a quaint northwestern town were stunned when homecoming queen Laura Palmer was shockingly murdered, the supernatural, surreal and sometimes darkly comic Twin Peaks returns to our screens with many of the elements that cemented its cult status and inspired visionary showrunners like David Chase and Damon Lindelof. Telling the story of quirky FBI Special Agent Dale Cooper’s odyssey back to the idiosyncratic town, the eerie undercurrents of seemingly ordinary small-town life favoured by acclaimed director David Lynch also quietly return and have earned rave reviews from critics far and wide. On board are Episodes 1–10, Season 1.

Riverdale Season 1

PG13

This American teen drama takes a bold, refreshing view of the original characters from Archie Comics for the 21st century audience. A seemingly perfect small town is rocked by the death of one of the high school’s most popular students, twin Jason Blossom. His friends Archie, Betty, and Jughead struggle to deal with the aftermath while Jason’s twin sister, Queen Bee Cheryl creates waves. When new girl Veronica arrives, all their relationships are put to the test. This apparently idyllic town hides a lot of secrets, and mystery and darkness is bubbling beneath the surface. On board are Episodes 1–10, Season 1.

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The Handmaid‘s Tale Season 1 R Adapted from the classic novel

by Canadian author, Margaret Atwood, The Handmaid’s Tale is the haunting, vivid and terrifying story of June Osbourne, a member of a caste of women forced into sexual servitude as a last desperate attempt to repopulate a world of declining fertility rates.

Subjected to the will of her commander and his cold, cruel wife, June is frequently humiliated and degraded; but under her mask of obedience, she has one goal: to survive and find the daughter that was taken from her. An intense and intelligent series, this is a must-see.

On board are Episodes 1–10, Season 1.

Enjoy our breathtaking setting and a warm Irish welcome

the difference...family run www.lakehotel.com hh

The Lake Hotel : Lake Shore : Muckross Road : Killarney : Co. Kerry : Ireland : Reservations +353 (0) 64 66 31035 : info@lakehotel.com

EXPLORE LEARN DISCOVER

VIKING & MEDIEVAL DUBLIN VIKING DUBLIN

MEDIEVAL DUBLIN

HISTORY ST MICHAEL’S HUNTERS TOWER

St Michael’s Hill, Christ Church, Dublin 8 www.dublinia.ie

Simon Taylor Now Then is a beautiful collection of instrumental tracks. Recorded in Dublin, Caceres, York and the Kingdom of Kerry, the tunes were all originally written in acoustic guitar in alternative tunings, and then built upon with arrangements and guest performances. Simon Taylor‘s debut album is rich in texture, allowing the listener space to roam.

Music & Radio Browse through our selection of music and create your own playlist from a collection of over 1,000 albums.

On Demand Radio allows you to select and view your favourite radio shows.

CL ASSIC AL

Mystery Train with John Kelly RTÉ lyric fm The Full Score with Liz Nolan RTÉ lyric fm EASY LISTENING

An hour long compilation of easy listening songs from Fitzpatrick Hotels INDIE

Lost in Music Louise Duffy, Today FM

Breakfast Republic 2FM, For this special Aer Lingus episode of Breakfast Republic, Bernard, Keith and Jen bring you some of their favourite sketches and songs Pop Charts Compilation of favourite pop songs RTÉ Gold Digital Radio Al Dunne, RTÉ Gold, 4 decades of great music Ronan Collins RTÉ Radio 1, Featuring listeners’ old favourites, plus the best of the new and some surprises in between Top 20 of 2017 98FM

Radio Nova: Marty Miller Marty Miller plays some of the most seriously addictive music ever recorded, alongside chats with the musicians who made these great records, like Clem Burke of Blondie, Jim Kerr of Simple Minds, Pa Sheehy of Walking on Cars and more.

ROCK

IRISH

Ceol na nGael Seán Ó hÉanaigh, RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta Irish Pulse Compilation of Irish artists K I DZ O N E

CAKE – Culture & Arts for Kids and Everyone Abie Philbin Bowman, RTÉ Junior SPOTLIGHT

Gavin James Bitter Pill is the debut album from Dublin singer-songwriter Gavin James, featuring the popular hits For You and the eponymous title track which won Irish Song of the Year at Ireland’s Choice Music Prize in 2015 138 |

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Marty Miller Radio Nova TA L K

Best of Moncrieff Seán Moncrieff, Newstalk RTÉ Radio 1 Documentary on One We offer two documentaries – the first on Richard Hayes, an unsung Irish hero who cracked Nazi codes during WW2 and the second on Frank Stagg, an IRA hunger striker who had two burials and three funerals AU D I O B O O K

Fenian‘s Trace The story of two boys raised as brothers in early 1900s Ireland who choose different paths when the rebellion comes but fall in love with the same woman.

Written by Sean P Mahoney and narrated by Liam Carney

RTÉ lyric fm The Full Score with Liz Nolan Join Liz Nolan as she presents a showcase of unabridged musical masterworks, featuring live recordings of Irish and international performers, plus selections from the latest releases.

Kirstin

We appreciate your feedback on our inflight content. Tell us what you think, send us a tweet!

Love is the solo debut album from Kirstin Maldonado, a member of multiple award-winning a cappella group Pentatonix. Blending her vocals with an electronic style, it features her debut single Break a Little.

Ruth B In her self-written debut album Safe Haven, Ruth B invites listeners to connect through her heartfelt and emotionally-stirring tracks.

Highlights include the vulnerable Unrighteous, which tells the story of the ups and downs of a relationship, the youth hymn Young, and the dreamy piano ballad Lost Boy.

ALL TIME FAVOURITES

Aerosmith Rock in a Hard Place Bill Withers Making Music Billy Joel Cold Spring Harbor Cyndi Lauper Hat Full of Stars Gladys Knight & The Pips About Love The Jacksons Milestones – The Jacksons

COUNTRY

Chris Young A.M. Dolly Parton Heartbreak Express Luke Combs This One‘s for You Miranda Lambert Four the Record Old Dominion Happy Endings Ryan Hurd Ryan Hurd

A LT E R N AT I V E

The Shins Heartworms Vancouver Sleep Clinic Revival

Armin van Buuren Mirage Jean-Michel Jarre Electronica 1: The Time Machine Lost Frequencies Less is More Michael Bersch Departure Saint Etienne Smash the System Singles 1990–99 The Chainsmokers Memories ... Do Not Open

CL ASSIC AL

Ezio Bosso The 12th Room Khatia Buniatishvili Motherland Sol Gabetta Il Progetto Vivaldi 2 Vladimir Horowitz Horowitz Plays Beethoven Sonatas Xavier de Maistre Mozart Yo-Yo Ma; Emanuel Ax Brahms Cello Sonatas

Herbie Hancock Mr Hands M E TA L

ELEC TRO

Colony House Only the Lonely Dams of the West Youngish American Everything Everything A Fever Dream Grizzly Bear Painted Ruins

JA Z Z

Bill Frisell Big Sur Branford Marsalis Quartet Crazy People Music Dizzy Gillespie & his Orchestra Bebop Professor Miles Davis Star People Lucas Pino‘s No Net Nonet The Answer is No

IR ISH

Celtic Thunder The Very Best of Celtic Thunder Christy Moore King Puck Daithi In Flight Simon Taylor Now Then The Script Freedom Child Van Morrison TB Sheets

Arch Enemy War Eternal In Flames Clayman Judas Priest Turbo 30 Motörhead The Very Best of Ozzy Osbourne Diary of a Madman Papa Roach Crooked Teeth Soilwork The Living Infinite OPER A

Christian Gerhaher Romantische Arien Huelgas Ensemble & Paul Van Nevel The Ear of the Huguenots Olga Peretyatko, Ural Philharmonic Orchestra & Dimitry Liss Russian Light Plácido Domingo,Pablo Heras-Casado & Orquestra de la Comunitat Valenciana Verdi The London Oratory Schola Cantorum Boys Choir Sacred Treasures of England

P OP

Kesha Rainbow Kirstin Love Michael Jackson Number Ones Superfruit Future Friends – Part One Transviolet Kaleidoscopes Ruth B Safe Haven RNB

Chaka Khan Funk This Chloe x Halle The Two of Us Des‘ree Mind Adventures Ginuwine Back II Da Basics HER HER, Vol 2 Luke Christopher TMRWFRVR

ROCK

Arcade Fire Everything Now Dreamcar Dreamcar Foster the People Sacred Hearts Club Foo Fighters Concrete and Gold Kasabian For Crying Out Loud The Low Budget Men Mirror Games K I DZ O N E

Arthur Fiedler Classics For Children City of London Sinfonia; Stuart Hancock We‘re Going on a Bear Hunt Judson Mancebo Babies Love Queen Various Artists Build your Baby‘s Brain–Through the Power of Music Various Artists Baby’s Bedtime

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Flight Connections at Dublin Airport

Dublin Airport provides FREE Wi-Fi throughout the Terminal

Welcome to Dublin Airport Are your bags checked through to your final destination?

YES Follow signs for Flight Connections

Naisc Eitilte Flight Connections

Where are you flying to?

NO Follow the signs for ‘Baggage Reclaim’. After clearing passport control, your baggage belt will be displayed on the screens.

Collect your bags, exit through Customs and proceed to Aer Lingus Check-in Terminal 2.

USA USA GATES 401– 426 15 minutes walk to gate

Our staff are on hand for any queries you might have.

Here you can, collect your onwards boarding pass and check your next boarding gate and flight status

Gate Information Screens

Passport Control and Security Screening

GATES 401–426 15 minutes walk to gate GATES 101–335 20 minutes walk to gate

Have all your required forms filled out.

Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk

ALL OTHER DESTINATIONS

Follow signs for US Preclearance

Geataí Gates

101-335

Hand Baggage search Follow signs for Flight Connections

Enjoy refreshments in one of the restaurants or cafés.

Departure Gate

AerClub Concierge, Platinum and Silver members are welcome to visit the Aer Lingus Lounge. You can work, eat, drink or even grab a shower between flights.

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If you have any queries about your connecting flight at any of our North American destinations please ask us. We will do everything we can to get you to where you need to be.

Flight Connections T2 London Heathrow

401-426

Geataí Gates Réamh-Imréitach SAM U.S. Preclearance

Duty free purchases containing liquids over 100ml must be in a sealed and tamper-proof bag with the receipt inside.

Flight Connections for North American destinations

On arrival at Terminal 2, Heathrow, please follow the purple signs for Flight Connections.

Which terminal are you flying from?

For Terminals 3, 4 and 5, a dedicated bus will transfer you. Buses are free and depart every six to ten minutes. If you are flying from Terminal 2, proceed to security screening and enter the departures lounge.

Security screening You will pass through security screening at this point. Your hand baggage will be checked to ensure it conforms to UK and EU regulations. Liquids in containers over 100ml are not allowed through security.

Departure lounge Check the screens in the departure lounge for when your gate opens and when your flight is ready for boarding.

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Our European and North American Route Network

Edmonton Saskatoon

Calgary

Regina Winnipeg

Vancouver

Thunder Bay

Victoria

Seattle

Duluth

Traverse

Minneapolis Boise Sioux Falls

Medford

Grand Rapids

Omaha

Des Moines

Denver

Reno

Kansas City

Fort Wayne Akron Canton Chicago

Fresno Las Vegas Monterey San Luis Obispo Los Angeles Santa Barbara Palm Springs Burbank Santa Ana Long Beach San Diego

Louisville

Wichita

San Francisco

Tulsa

Oklahoma City

Tucson

Hyannis Nantucket Martha’s Vineyard

New York (JFK) Philadelphia

Richmond Norfolk Raleigh–Durham

Columbia Charleston

El Paso Houston

Providence

Boston

Charlotte

Greenville Atlanta

Dallas (Fort Worth)

Austin

Honolulu Kahului

Greensboro

Knoxville

Memphis

Halifax

Portland ME

Washington (National)

Lexington

Little Rock Phoenix

Newark

Cincinnati

Nashville

Albany

Hartford

Washington (Dulles)

Springfield

San Jose

Rochester

Pittsburgh

Moncton

Burlington Syracuse

Columbus Harrisburg Baltimore

Dayton

Indianapolis

St Louis

Oakland

Buffalo

Detroit Cleveland

Cedar Rapids Salt Lake City

Sacramento

Milwaukee Madison

Toronto

Fredericton

Montreal

Ottawa

Portland OR Eugene

St. John’s

Quebec Fargo

New Orleans

Tallahassee Pensacola

San Antonio

Savannah

Jacksonville Gainesville

Orlando Tampa Fort Myers

West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale

Miami Key West

San Juan Aguadilla Ponce

We are the best choice for connecting Europe to North America. You can travel from Dublin direct to twelve US destinations, or to Canada, and benefit from up to 100 onward connections with our partner airlines.

You can also fly from Shannon direct to Boston and New York JFK. With US Customs and Border Protection Pre-clearance at Dublin and Shannon airports, you will save time and avoid queues in the US. Arrive in the US before you depart Ireland.

Aer Lingus European and North American Network Aer Lingus Regional routes (Operated by Stobart Air) Aer Lingus Regional and mainline routes Aer Lingus partner destinations (Operated by Flybe, for routes via Dublin to North America) Aer Lingus partner destinations (American Airlines, Air Canada, Jetblue, United Airlines and WestJet) Aer Lingus partner destinations (Operated by City Flyer)

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Aer Lingus fly direct to and from over 100 destinations across Ireland, the UK, Continental Europe, Canada and the US. Our vast network and partners will also connect you to dozens of other cities in North America. Visit aerlingus.com for more information.

Aberdeen Glasgow

Donegal

Newcastle

Belfast

Leeds Bradford Doncaster Manchester

Isle of Man

Knock

Dublin

Shannon Kerry

Edinburgh

Birmingham

Cork

Cardiff Newquay

s

Berlin

London London City London Southend Heathrow

Bristol Exeter

Hamburg Amsterdam

Southampton

Düsseldorf

London Gatwick

Brussels Prague

Frankfurt

Jersey

Paris

Stuttgart Vienna

Munich

Rennes

Budapest

Zurich

Nantes Geneva Lyon Bordeaux

Toulouse

Santiago de Compostela

Bilbao

Montpellier Perpignan

Venice Milan Verona (Malpensa) Milan (Linate) Bologna Pula Nice Pisa

Split

Marseille

Bourgas

Dubrovnik Rome

Barcelona

Naples

Madrid Corfu

Palma

Lisbon Alicante Murcia Malaga

Izmir

Athens Catania

Faro

Tenerife Gran Canaria

Lanzarote Fuerteventura

Try our online route map You can view our destinations and book your flight directly from our route map. Perfect for viewing from your ipad, it is built using Google maps so no need to install any software, just browse and book!

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Our Middle East, Australasia and South African Route Network You can now book flights from Dublin to destinations in the Middle East, Australia and South Africa via London Heathrow and Abu Dhabi. Visit aerlingus.com for more information.

Dublin

London Heathrow

Bahrain

Dubai

Abu Dhabi

Muscat

Kuala Lumpur Singapore

Aer Lingus routes via Abu Dhabi (Operated by our codeshare partner Etihad Airways) Aer Lingus routes via London Heathrow (Operated by our codeshare partner British Airways)

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Perth Sydney

Melbourne

U.S. IMMIGRATION LAWYERS SINCE 1997

Excellent track record representing: • • • • •

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New York Office: T: 212-965-1148

Deirdre O’Brien, Esq.

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MEMBER OF AMERICAN IMMIGRATION LAWYERS ASSOCIATION

Staying connected on board*

Choose how you access the internet on board. We have three options for you to select.

THE SMARICTE CHO

Aer Social

Aer Max

€6.95

€13.95

€29.95

UP TO 50MB

UP TO 120MB

UP TO 250MB

$7.95

Mobile Network on board

With our onboard mobile network, AeroMobile, you can use your phone for text, email and internet browsing, just like you would on the ground**.

Stay connected even as you cross the Atlantic.

1 Switch on

$15.95

$32.95

Wi-Fi on board in six steps

On our A330 aircraft you can stay in touch with everything that matters, even when you’re in the air. Here’s how to connect your Wi-Fi enabled devices.

1 Switch on

Switch on your mobile when it is safe to do so, keeping it on silent or vibrate mode.

Ensure you switch off flight safe mode.

Once the safety belt sign has been switched off, turn on your device and connect to the Telekom HotSpot Network. SSID: Aer_Lingus_WiFi

2 Aeromobile

2 Connect

Wait for the AeroMobile network signal to appear. If your device does not connect automatically, manually select the AeroMobile network through network settings.

Launch or refresh the browser to connect to the Aer Lingus portal. You can browse aerlingus.com for free along with some of our partners’ sites.

3 Welcome SMS

Click the ‘Buy Internet Access’ button and choose a plan.

Once connected you will receive a welcome SMS from AeroMobile. You may also receive a pricing message from your mobile operator.

International roaming rates apply.

4 Connected

You can now use your phone for SMS, MMS, email and browsing the internet. ** Voice calls are disabled and are not permitted during flight. Remember to manage your settings to avoid automatic data download and roaming charges.

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3 Purchase Internet Access

4 Payment

Select your payment method which is processed via a secure connection. Credit card, roaming, iPass, PayPal or Deutsche Telekom accounts are accepted.

5 Username and Password

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@theriddlerdub

Riddler

Riddler

www.theriddler.ie

t: 01 - 9073266 e: info@theriddler.ie

Open 9am - Late

Promo Code: CARA02 10% discount

WELCOME TO YOUR WORLD-CLASS 4-STAR AIRLINE. In recognition of our consistent quality and excellent guest experience, Skytrax World Airline Awards has rated Aer Lingus 4-stars, making us the first and only Irish airline to receive such a prestigious rating.

Smart flies 4-star. Smart flies Aer Lingus.

Aerlingus.com

JEWELERS - NEW YORK -

Creators of Fine Jewelry Since 1985 Your best source for diamonds and fine jewelry

haniken.com |

info@ haniken.com |

HanikenJewelersNYC |

66 W 47th St #24 New York, NY 10036 | Showroom:

hanikenjewelers_nyc

+1(212) 302-6605

DIVIDE AND

CONQUER NEW SHAREABLE PLATTERS

THIS IS TOO BIG TO KEEP TO YOURSELF ST. STEPHEN’S GREEN ~ TEMPLE BAR BLANCHARDSTOWN ~ DUNDRUM LIFFEY VALLEY ~ SWORDS

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See Exquisite Pieces of Crystal manufactured before your eyes

“It’s crystal clear”

A factory tour where you can almost rub shoulders with the artisans as they produce beautiful objects.

“Great Tour of Waterford Crystal” Great history, very close to the process and really beautiful items.

+353 (0) 51 317000 houseofwaterfordcrystal@fiskars.com www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com

BOUTIQUE | SHOPPING

Spring

CLEAN

Give your make-up bag an overhaul this season with the help of a new range of beauty products on board today.

LANCôME ALL EYE NEED TRAVEL SET

Including mascara, kohl liner, eye cream and make-up remover, you'll have all you need to freshen your look on the move.

CHLOÉ CHLOÉ EAU DE PARFUM

Launched in 2007, this spring-like scent has become a modern classic thanks to its velvety bouquet of floral notes.

BELLÁPIERRE KISS PROOF LIP CRÈME QUAD

Offering full coverage with a matte finish, your lip colour will last for hours with this selection of bright, flattering, creamy shades.

BOBBI BROWN INSTANT EYE AND CHEEK PALETTE With four eyeshadows and a blusher in one compact, this palette covers the vitals without taking up the space.

PESTLE & MORTAR PURE HYALURONIC SERUM

A hydrating and smoothing serum for all skin types, this is the ultimate multitasker and, at 30ml, is perfect for hand luggage.

AERLINGUS.COM |

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TRIP OF A LIFETIME | CHILE

WET AND WILDERNESS When Eimear Phelan isn’t teaching English in Spain, she’s travelling the world – and climbing mountains in Chile. y day five I was dead.

I had blisters on both my baby toes and my right heel.

My left knee was aching from all the downhills. My hips felt bruised from sleeping on the hard ground. And no matter how much I ate, my backpack steadfastly refused to get lighter.

Myself and two friends had decided a few months previously to do the famous “W Trek” in Torres del Paine National Park in southern Chile. As part of our South American adventure, we had done a few hikes as training, but the rest of the time we got really good at exercising our livers, not our limbs.

In the beginning we were lucky – we had only two days of rain out of five. But, boy, does Patagonia know how to do rain ... On the first day there wasn’t enough Gore-Tex in the world to keep us dry. We coined

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| AERLINGUS.COM

a new word: “strail”, to describe the trails that were more like streams than land.

Moreover, at that point we’d already lost a team member to an injury so were carrying her share of gear, and the stubborn clouds meant that we had to imagine all the beautiful scenery that we’d been told so much about.

I fell asleep at 7pm in the only dry set of clothes I had left, listening to the rain hammer down overhead and slowly dripping into the tent we’d put up with stiff fingers. We couldn’t even go up the French Valley because the rivers had surged so much that it was uncrossable. The whiteboard outside the ranger’s station to indicate weather simply said: “Danger”.

Cruelly, our second day of rain came right after the first. I couldn’t face putting back on the sodden clothes from the day before so resorted to wearing my pyjamas, and

we ran for the first hour to get some warmth back into our fingers and toes.

It was six hours of slogging through rain with packs that now weighed a few extra kilos due to all the water.

We arrived at Central campsite to find that our injured friend had come to meet us. When I took off my boots, I could literally pour the water out, and taking off my backpack made me feel as light as if I was walking on the Moon.

The Torres are a 3.5-hour hike up from Central and had been closed that day, which meant we weren’t due to climb until the next morning.

I admit that a big part of me groaned when I heard that they’d been reopened, but I knew in my heart I couldn’t just quit. I couldn’t not go. We packed up the gear and set off, knowing that the weather conditions meant we would be unlikely to see anything. About an hour in, my last remaining friend decided it wasn’t worth it and went back down. I was on my own.

The last 400-metre stretch is incredibly steep but, as I told myself and my unhappy knee for the hundredth time that day: “You can put up with anything for an hour.”

As I neared the summit, I could see blue sky peeking through the clouds ... There they were, the three stone towers rising majestically into the sky. I had arrived within exactly the ten-minute window they were visible that day.

Sweatier and smellier than I have ever been in my life – still in the same clothes I’d started out in and hurting everywhere – I couldn’t stop smiling. It felt like the Torres had come out just for me.

Follow Eimear’s adventures on Instagram @blondeeimear.

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