Leonardo Di Carlo
VOLUTION
the art and science in pastry CHIRIOTTI EDITORI
In conclusion Tasting and evaluating food in a sensorial analysis setting requires awareness and attention on the part of the professionals called to express their judgement. Their primary task is to analyse the different qualities of the product to understand its gustatory characteristics. Tasting is a much more complex operation, since it requires the ability to evaluate each single aspect of the product analyzed for its organoleptic nature and the multiple interactions that take place between its sensorial nature: visual, olfactory, tactile, gustatory and auditive. When we taste a cake, we have to try and understand all of its aspects, proportions, texture, sapidity and the final result should be a balanced harmony of tastes, sensations and, often, also memories (emotivity): all of this must ensure that we have a clean palate. Such a process must begin at the early stages before preparing the cake, that is, based on experience, doing one’s best and imagining the recipe in one’s mind: if it is too sweet, if the texture is correct, if it is too creamy, or not structured or creamy enough... In this way, we challenge ourselves everyday and we exercise our knowledge and our intuition to understand what the cake is like. It may seem impossible, but when you make a pastry reasoning with the percentages of the ingredients that it is composed of (this is why, in my book there are the % of the ingredients in every recipe) you are almost there already. All of this does not happen from one day to the next, but through knowledge, passion and patience, and also from our mistakes, important rules are understood when creating personal and valid recipes. Also remember that the balance of a cake is due to many factors, for example if you prepare a simple plum cake we have to consider that the candied fruit is on average 7072% of sweetness, so we have to rebalance the cake mass by adding less sugar; the same applies to an iced cake (all icings are very sweet). Another important factor is the texture (grains of dried fruit, nougat, chocolate chips, puffed rice...): this allows us to have a greater salivation and a complete cleaning of the palate. Furthermore a cake without any crunchy element will result as flat and monotonous, that is, not “three dimensional”.
Structure of the tongue
bitter (umami)
sour
salty
sweet
28
PUFF PASTRY
puff pastry
Simple turn 3 folds
4 layers of detrempe
3 layers of fat
Double turn 4 folds
5 layers of detrempe
4 layers of fat
69
CHOUX PASTRY
choux pastry
CHOUX PASTRY WITH CORN OIL water corn oil salt all-purpose flour 11% prot. eggs total
quantity
%
500 g 300 g 5g 350 g 650 g
27,70 16,62 0,28 19,39 36,01
1.805 g
100
Place the first three ingredients in a stainless steel, double base saucepan and bring to the boil. Add the flour and cook over a flame for approx. 2 minutes, until the panade is compact and comes off the bottom of the saucepan. Place the mixture in a planetary mixer with the paddle attachment, add the eggs little by little, until they are completely absorbed, then check the consistency until it is smooth, creamy and stable. Pipe onto a Teflon baking tray, with very small holes, using a smooth n째 8-10 nozzle for miniature puffs and a n째 12-14 for larger pastries. Note: suitable for people intolerant to butter and its derivatives. It is recommended to use an oil that has a delicate taste.
COCOA BUTTER CHOUX PASTRY water cocoa butter salt all-purpose flour 11% prot. eggs total
quantity
%
500 g 250 g 5g 350 g 550 g
30,21 15,11 0,30 21,15 33,23
1.655 g
100
Place the first three ingredients in a stainless steel, double base saucepan and bring to the boil. Add the flour and cook over a flame for approx. 2 minutes, until the panade is compact and comes off the bottom of the saucepan. Place the mixture in a planetary mixer with the paddle attachment, add the eggs little by little, until they are completely absorbed, then check the consistency until it is smooth, creamy and stable. Pipe onto a Teflon baking tray, with very small holes, using a smooth n째 8-10 nozzle for miniature puffs and a n째 12-14 for larger pastries. Note: suitable for people intolerant to butter and its derivatives.
91
FOAMED MIXTURES
SPONGE CAKE FOR LOGS Quantity
%
whole eggs egg yolks regular sugar lemon peel vanilla bean egg white regular sugar cake flour 7/8% prot.
1.000 g 400 g 750 g 15 g 5g 600 g 250 g 600 g
27,62 11,05 20,72 0,41 0,14 16,57 6,91 16,57
total
3.620 g
100
Place the first five ingredients in a planetary mixer and whip until fluffy. Then, whip the egg white with the sugar until light and fluffy. Add 1/3 flour to the first mixture, then add 1/3 egg white. Repeat until everything is incorporated. Pour 600 g of the batter into a tray 40x60 cm.
Fan oven: 200°C Time: 6-8 minutes approx. Damper: closed Storage: +4°C for 7 days; -18°C for 90 days. Note: for logs and rolls.
AURORA SPONGE CAKE Quantity
%
whole eggs regular sugar lemon peel vanilla bean egg yolks cake flour 7/8% prot. potato starch melted butter 45°C
1.000 g 1.350 g 15 g 5g 1.000 g 780 g 550 g 900 g
17,86 24,11 0,27 0,09 17,86 13,93 9,82 16,07
total
5.600 g
100
Mix the first four ingredients and heat to 45°/50°C. Place in a planetary mixer and whip using a whisk. Half way though, add yolks and keep mixing until the mixture is voluminous and stable. Sift the flour with the potato starch. Remove 1/10 of the mixture and add the melted butter and then incorporate to the rest of the mixture. Place in molds and bake straightway.
Fan oven: 170°/180°C Time for cake tin 4-4.5 cm: 20-25 minutes approx. Damper: closed for the first 10 minutes Cooling: in blast chiller to +3°C Storage: fridge +4°C or freezer -18°C Note: for cakes, base for creams eaten at +4°C, and for classic pastries.
112
FRIABLE PASTRIES
friable pastries
LINZER MASS FOR PASTRY BAG butter 82% fat icing sugar salt vanilla bean cinnamon powder powdered cloves lemon peel eggs egg yolks powdered almonds cake flour 7/8% prot. baking powder totale
Quantity
%
500 g 300 g 5g n. 8g 3g 12 g 150 g 50 g 300 g 450 g 6g
28.03 16.82 0.28 1/2 0.45 0.17 0.67 8.41 2.80 16.82 25.22 0.34
1,784 g
100
Mix the butter with the sugar, salt and vanilla, then add the eggs and egg yolks. Then add the powdered almonds and lastly the flour sifted with the baking powder. Pipe the mixture using a pastry bag directly into the ring. Fan oven: 160°C Time: 35-40 minutes Damper: open Note: baking must not be too violent otherwise there is the risk of caramelising the jam and the inside remaining very humid. Did you know? The Linzer Torte is said to be the oldest cake in the world, being mentioned for the first time in 1653. However, both the inventor and whoever gave the cake its name have remained a secret, even if it can be deduced that it originates from Linz, an Austrian city on the Danube. The first written recipes date back to 350 years ago, when already four different recipes were reported for the cake and Linz pastry, proof of its great popularity in the Baroque period. The difference with the more recent recipes is that the cake was always mixed using melted butter, adding more butter afterwards. Moreover, the cake was baked in a bowl, that is to say, put in the oven in a silver container, very similar to the terrine of today. Spices are only mentioned once, instead, almonds are part of all the historic recipes.
147
SPONGES AND MADELEINES
SOFT LEMON AND OLIVE OIL PLUM CAKE quantity
%
lemon peel regular sugar eggs invert sugar salt water lemon juice light extra virgin olive oil pastry flour 9% prot. baking powder
25 g 200 g 250 g 20 g 2g 60 g 20 g 135 g 200 g 8g
3,60 28,7ì8 35,97 2,88 0,29 8,63 2,88 19,42 28,78 1,15
total
920 g
100
Refine finely the lemon rind with the regular sugar, add eggs, invert sugar and salt. Then whip using a whisk, drizzle in the water, lemon juice and olive oil. Finish with the flour, sifted together with the baking powder. Put the batter into silicone moulds and, if you like, place some fresh raspberries, or other types of fruit, on top.
Temperature fan oven: 160°/170°C Temperature static oven: 180°/190°C Time: 40-45 minutes approx, damper closed for the first 15 minutes. Note: ideal for preparations without dairy products.
EARL GREY TEA CAKE quantity
%
Earl Grey tea regular sugar lemon peel eggs salt liquid cream 35% fat pastry flour 9% prot. baking powdere butter
10 g 200 g 8g 250 g 1g 150 g 250 g 6g 100 g
1,03 20,51 0,82 25,64 0,10 15,38 25,64 0,62 10,26
total
975 g
100
Temperature static oven: 190°/200°C Temperature fan oven: 170°/180°C Time: 30-35 minutes, damper closed for the first 10 minutes Note: Cool in blast chiller and, then, glaze with apricot gelatine.
230
Grind the tea finely together with sugar and lemon rind. Add eggs, salt and cream, then whip using a whisky. Sift the flour together with the baking powder and add to the mixture. Lastly, add melted butter. Place in buttered 400 g tins.
BASIC CREAMS
heat
wollen starch granules
Native starch granules in water Swelling of gelatinised starch granules
Another condition to bring about gelatinisation, is the presence of water. Its concentration must be at least 35% and by increasing the concentration the process takes place in a more complete way. Custard is, on average, composed of 60-65% approx. of water.
Gelatinisation temperature of the starch in some cereals Starch type Maize Maize waxy or modified Potato Potato waxy or modified Rice Rice waxy or modified Tapioca Wheat
% Amylose 25-28 <1(5) 19-21 <1 17-19 <1 17 25
% Amylopectin 75-72 >99(5) 81-79 >99 83-81 >99 83 75
T° gelatinisation 75-80 63-72 56-69 56-69 68-78 66-74 80-85 80-85
AROMAS The two main ones are the vanilla bean, which should be cut longwise to extract the seeds infusing them in milk, and lemon, which can be added both with the whole rind without the pith (which should be removed during the cooling phase), or finely grated. The vanilla bean is the best solution, considering its aromatic power. Liquid or powder vanilla extract can also be use or vanilla sugar. Custards are also suitable for many other aromas, such as coffee, chocolate, caramel, rum, kirsch, Cointreau, Grand Marnier, fruit… Note: all alcohol based aromas or acid fruit puree must be added to the batter with the egg yolks, sugar and starch, never directly added to the milk (causing the acceleration of the coagulation). Regarding vanilla, it is recommended to use UHT milk products or boil the fresh products, because the enzymes contained in fresh or pasteurized milk products have the ability to deteriorate the vanillin in the pods, in an important way. There are two solutions to prevent this phenomenon: • use UHT milk and cream (the enzymes in question are absent) • boil the fresh or pasteurized milk (and the cream) for 5 minutes, before adding the vanilla for the infusion. In effect, these enzymes are destroyed by heat > 85°C. SALT Chemically, kitchen salt is sodium chloride (NaCl). It is used in small quantities, since it must not in any way be evident when the cream is tasted, but should enhance the flavours and aromas present in the cream. Its task, in effect, is only that of stimulating the cell “receiving” the flavour so that these (“goblet-shaped cells”), under the stimulation of the salt, which is soluble in water and therefore also in saliva, open up completely, allowing all the flavours present in the cream to be perceived fully. The quantity indicated for custard is 0.05-0,10% out of the total ingredients.
280
CREAMS COAGULATED IN THE OVEN
coagulated creams
VANILLA PUDDING quantity
%
fresh whole milk vanilla bean fresh cream 35% fat whole eggs regular sugar salt
1.000 g 2g 200 g 250 g 200 g 1g
60,50 0,12 12,10 15,12 12,10 0,06
total
1.653 g
100
Bring the milk to the boil with the vanilla bean, leave to infuse for 5 minutes, well covered. Filter directly onto the eggs, beaten with the regular sugar and salt. Put the liquid mixture into ramekins or single-portion Stainless steel moulds.
Cooked in bain marie, fan oven: 150°C Time: 50-60 minutes approx. for 60 g single-portions Cooked in bain marie, static oven: 160°/170°C Time: 55-60 minutes approx. for 60 g single-portions Once cooked, cool in chill blaster to +3°C in the centre. Remove from mould, if desired, or serve directly in the container where it has been cooked. Storage at +4°C for 2 days. Note: it is recommended to check cooking by moving the tray slightly, to avoid extending cooking excessively or vice versa.
CHOCOLATE PUDDING fresh whole milk fresh cream 35% fat orange peel cocoa mass gelatin sheets whole eggs egg yolks regular sugar salt chopped amaretti cookies total
quantity
%
400 g 100 g 2g 100 g 3g 170 g 50 g 200 g 1g 100 g
35,52 10,00 0,18 10,00 0,27 15,10 4,44 17,76 0,09 8,88
1.126 g
100
Bring the milk, to the boil with the cream and the orange rind, leave to infuse for 5 minutes, well covered. Put together the melted cocoa mass and the softened gelatine. Pour onto the eggs, beaten with the regular sugar and salt, finish with the amaretti. Put the liquid mixture into ramekins or single-portion stainless steel moulds.
Cooked in bain marie, fan oven: 150°C Time: 60 minutes approx. for 60-70 g Cooked in bain marie, static oven: 160°/170°C Time: 55-60 minutes approx. for 60 g single-portions Once cooked, cool in the cooking water, then in chill blaster until +3°C in the centre. Remove from mould, if desired, or serve directly in the container where it has been cooked. Storage at +4°C for 2 days. Note: it is recommended to check cooking by moving the tray slightly, to avoid extending cooking excessively or vice versa.
365
NOUGAT
SOFT TORRONCINI Quantity
%
acacia honey regular sugar egg whites regular sugar finely grated lemon rind vanilla bean roasted hazelnuts
600 g 400 g 100 g 100 g 6g 2g 1,000 g
27.17 18.11 4.52 4.52 0.27 0.09 45.28
total
2.208 g
100
Put both the honey and the regular sugar in a double-bottomed pan and cook at 145°C, being careful not to burn the sides of the pan and moistening with a slightly wet brush. When the temperature reaches 135°C, whisk the egg whites with the regular sugar, the lemon rind and the vanilla bean. Drizzle in the caramel. Whip the mixture and gently heat the bottom of the planetary mixer, allowing to dry to the desired consistency (you can check it by taking a small quantity and allowing it to cool quickly on the workbench or in your hand). When the temperature is 55°/60°C, replace the whisk with the paddle, add the dry fruit heated to 50°C. Mix slowly until completely absorbed. Spread between two layers of host (rice paper) and allow to rest overnight at room temperature (18°C). The following day, cut into the desired shape and ice with dark chocolate if required. Pack individually with transparent food wrapping paper. Store away from humidity and high temperatures. Note: light, not very sweet. Dry texture. Hazelnuts can be replaced with other nuts, as required.
SOFT CHOCOLATE NOUGAT acacia honey regular sugar vanilla bean egg whites regular sugar cocoa mass roasted hazelnuts total
Quantity
%
700 g 400 g 2g 125 g 50 g 350 g 800 g
28.84 16.48 0.08 5.15 2.06 14.42 32.96
2,427 g
100
Put both the honey and the regular sugar in a double-bottomed pan and cook at 133°C, being careful not to burn the sides of the pan and moistening with a slightly wet brush. When the temperature reaches 115°C, whisk the egg whites with the regular sugar. Drizzle in the caramel. Whip the mixture in a planetary mixer. When the temperature is 55°/60°C, replace the whisk with the paddle, add the cocoa mass and the dry fruit heated to 50°C. Mix slowly until completely absorbed. Spread between two layers of host (rice paper) and allow to rest overnight at room temperature (18°C). The following day, cut into the desired shape and ice with dark chocolate if required. Pack individually with transparent food wrapping paper. Store away from humidity and high temperatures.
608
JAMS, MARMALADES, PRESERVES AND GELATINE
Pectin with HM (high-methoxyl) contains more than 50% of the methoxyl groups, they only gel if the total soluble solid content is superior to 65% (Brix) and the pH is between 2 and 3.8. Their gelling can be more or less rapid depending on the degree of methoxylation, which determines the temperature and the speed of the formation of the gel: HM Pectins with DM equal to 70-76% gel rapidly at high temperatures (90°-80°C) and are defined rapid set; the HM pectins with DM equal to 60-65% gel more slowly, during cooling (50°-40°C) and are defined slow set. Much used for preserves with fruit pieces, where it is important to obtain a homogeneous distribution of the pieces, thus avoiding their separation, because they gel at high temperatures before the pieces start to separate from the mixture, they often come to the surface, with an excellent release of the aromas. These pectins are stopped up and non reversible (cooked only once) with the temperature: once gelled, even if they are heated again they do not dissolve anymore. Pectin with LM (low methoxy) contains less than 50% of the methoxyl groups, pectin with low amidated methoxyl is obtained from an HM pectin, and contains less than 50% of the methoxyl groups, and from 1 to 25% of amide groups. The LM pectins gel in the presence of calcium in a wide pH range from 2.6 to 7.0 and with a total concentration of soluble solids (Brix) variable from 10 to 70%. The LM pectins can also be amidated, not stopped up with the temperature and are reversible: they can be re-dissolved and reheated more than once forming the gelling. Much used for fruit based products with a low sugar content, those with a low methoxy give, above all, creaminess to the product, those that are amidated are even more gel-forming. They are used in the production of particular preserves, or fruit juices that must resist to baking, without becoming too dark or form synerisis and for sprayed jellies which must re-gel once reheated. PECTIN TYPE
QUANTITY OF SOLUBLE SOLIDS
APPLICATION
GELLING TEMPERATURE
PH DM RANGE DEGREE
HM rapid set
55-80%
Preserves and marmalades with pieces
85°-95°C approx
2,5-3,8
70-76
HM medium rapid set
55-80%
Preserves and marmalades large containers (5-10 kg)
70°-75°C approx.
“
65-70
HM slow set
55-80%
Preserves and marmalades large containers (>10 kg). Fruit jellies
60°C approx. gels avoiding to imprison air bubbles in the product
“
60-65
LM amidated
5-65% termoreversibile
2,5-7,0
< 50
LM non amidated
25-55%
“
< 50
LM amidated and non amidated
< 45-50%
“
< 50
Preserves and Gels without added marmalades with calcium low level of sugar Products such as yogurts, Gels in the presence milk puddings (with the of calcium presence of calcium) sauces and topping
Gives thickness
Note: the values shown in the table above are variable because each brand presents different preparations, it is recommended to ask for the product technical sheet.
OTHER THICKENERS With the application of the Italian D.M. 27 February 1996 n. 209 and following updates which implement the Community directives, pectin is no longer the only thickener used in making jams. Also used are alginates, carrageenan, agar agar, carob flour, xanthan gum and others still. However, pectin is still preferred, because it is recognised by the consumer as a natural element of fruit.
634
BRITTLE BASES
PROCESS OUTLINE PRODUCT TYPE FRUIT CARAMELIZED WITH SUGAR SYRUP
INGREDIENTS SUGAR SYRUP 62°Brix
RAW NUTS hazelnuts, pistachio
REGULAR SUGAR CANE SUGAR
FRUIT CARAMELIZED WITH EGG WHITE
LIQUID EGG WHITE or slightly whipped
RAW NUTS hazelnuts, pistachio
REGULAR SUGAR CANE SUGAR
FRUIT SANDED WITH COOKED SUGAR
FRUIT CARAMELIZED WITH COOKED SUGAR
REGULAR SUGAR
WATER
°F
°C 50 40 30 20 10 0 -10 -20 -30 -40
Add the chosen sugar, then put onto baking paper and cook at 150°C, stir now and again soak the non-toasted nuts with the egg white at room temperature Add the chosen sugar, then put onto baking paper and cook at 150°C, stir now and again. Leave to cool at room temperature Add and cook in a copper or stainless steel double-bottomed saucepan, to 118°C Add the heated fruit and mix over the heat, until the sugar becomes grainy completely
AROMAS vanilla, orange, essential oils
Add the chosen aroma, spread onto trays and cool
SUGARS regular, glucose syrup
WATER
Add and cook in a copper or stainless steel double-bottomed saucepan, to 118°C
SEMI- TOASTED NUTS
Add the heated fruit and mix over the heat, until the sugar caramelizes completely
FAT anhydrous butter, cocoa butter
Add the fat and mix until completely absorbed Add the chosen aroma, spread onto trays and cool
STORAGE Storage -18°C
not recommended
Storage +14°/16°C
30-60 days in air-tight containers away from humidity or in vacuum packed bags
Storage +4°C
in vacuum packed bags
Storage room temperature
not over +22°C
Note: the ideal temperature for the work environment is +18°/ 20°C
678
soak the non-toasted nuts with the syrup at room temperature
TOASTED NUTS
AROMAS vanilla, orange, essential oils
120 100 80 60 40 20 0 -20 -40
PREPARATION
ALTERNATIVE PRODUCTS
OTHER TYPES OF FLOURS Flours can derive from other cereals as well as wheat.
788
FLOUR
CHARACTERISTIC
USE
Oat flour
Oat is the cereal most rich in protein, even if it does not have those necessary for the formation of gluten, which makes it unsuitable for bread making. It is very rich in fats.
Boiled for approximately 35 minutes, it is used in grains, instead of rice, or in flakes added to milk or yogurt. Instead, its flour produces a sweetish and very energetic bread. It is recommended to mix it with wheat flour, which makes it more digestible.
Spelt flour
Spelt is the cereal from which wheat derived and it is very usefull against free radicals. There are three types; spelt flour, monococcum, dicoccum. The first two are very similar to soft wheat, the third to durum wheat. Like wheat, it contains gluten, except in the case of spelt flour which does not contain almost any. Spelt flour is used for the production of bread since it is appreciated for the aroma. It is very rich in fibres, vitamins, proteins, mineral salts, iron and selenium.
Depending on the milling, it is used alone or added to others, to prepare traditional recipes, such as sweets, cakes, bread and semolini. Monococcume Spelt is recommended for baked products and savouries. Dicoccum for pasta.