Sound Geography IV：Davao & Kota Kinabalu

聲 音 地 誌 IV

Sound Geography IV 【 達沃與亞庇 Davao & Kota Kinabalu 】

劉 致 宏 Chih-Hung LIU 2016

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《聲音地誌 Sound Geography》出版刊物為逐漸累積成型的「聲音 紋理資料庫」，此創作計畫目前橫跨了幾個城市 : 日本的山口、臺 灣的高雄與恆春，2015-16 年間預計陸續完成新增的城市樣本為臺 灣的高雄、恆春、臺南，日本東京、菲律賓的達沃、馬來西亞的亞 庇、澳洲雪梨，未來也將持續進行下去。 聲音會是什麼樣子？當以「身體」開發成為感受眾多聲響的聽覺器 官時，透過口述、訪查、影像凝結與抽象 / 具象素描線條的聯覺轉 化表現等，試圖將「聽覺視覺化」，並撰以在地人、物、故事等相 關資料與聲響素材蒐集，為每個在地環境豐富的文化底藴，以記錄 / 檔案創作的方式研究關於「聽覺與視覺」之間的經驗連結，並希 望留下不同城市、地域之間的對照樣本。

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Sound Geography IV

The publication of Sound Geography series is meant to establish a “voice-drawing database” through gradual accumulations. This creative project currently covers several cities: Yamaguchi (Japan), Kaohsiung and Hengchun (Taiwan). The sample cities in progress--Kaohsiung, Henchun and Tainan (Taiwan), Tokyo (Japan), Davao (Philippines), Kota Kinabalu (Malaysia) and Sidney (Australia)—since 2015 are due to be finished by 2016. The project is expected to proceed continuously in the future.

What would voices look like? When the “body” is developed into an auditory organ perceiving numerous voices and sounds, the “visualization of hearing” is made possible through the connection, transformation, and representation of verbal accounts, interviews, image freezing and abstract/concrete sketch lines. By collecting related data and sound materials recounting stories of local people, things and happenings, Sound Geography records/databases the plenitude of culture in each local area, and studies the empirical connections between “hearing and sight.” At the same time, it aspires to leave illustrative samples gathered from different cities and areas.

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往南方走

八月一日一大早，寄了行李、過海關前匆忙把美而美的三明治和奶 茶解決，在半戶外的小房間抽了根煙、沈澱一下；接著從停機坪看 著地勤揮手、到飛機經過颱風上方、接著落地這一刻，才真的有一 趟旅程即將開始的感覺，離赤道又更近了一些，好久不見，東南亞。 上一次來到菲律賓、站在黎刹廣場上已經是快二十年前的事了；在 機場等轉機六個小時去第三大城達沃市的時候，人來人往和嘈雜的 印象漸漸甦醒，機場大廳外頭就如同記憶中那車水馬龍的景況；到 達南方的達沃之前只有對地理位置片面的了解，加上近來菲國總統 杜特蒂對治安、毒販的嚴格掃蕩，心中其實充滿各種不安的想像， 後來對此地的認知全經由在地的生活、旅程和遇見的人們所建構； 無菸城市、無處不見的持槍保全和警衛 ( 據當地人說有真槍、假槍、 空包彈、實彈都有可能 )、英文溝通無障礙等還有對總統杜特蒂的 神化，形塑了社會一片祥和卻難以言喻的安全感，和東南亞給人的 刻板印象大不相同，倒是每天早晨被窗外路上吉普尼的喇叭聲吵醒 卻別有一番身在故鄉臺灣的熟悉感。 來到東馬的沙巴亞庇之後，仍經歷了許多超出既定認知的人事物 ( 例如說一片文化混搭的世界 )，在文化發展的艱難現況之下造就 了堅毅的創作性格、也有充滿活力的藝文團體和偏鄉社區連結進而 催生了與在地生活密不可分的共構關係，顯現的能量都在在顛覆了 我們貧乏的想像；當然也不得不提到 ( 臨時外掛的 ) 汶萊短訪，在

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不食人間煙火的王權體制之下，這個伊斯蘭教國家也存在著令人驚 豔的美學價值和各文化領域觀念的逐漸萌芽。 此次參與奧賽德工廠之「+8 Time Zone：島嶼東南亞三城口述歷史 及社區藝術探勘計畫」期間，我們走訪了許多當地的替代空間、討 論會、藝術家工作室、大學院校、社區發展中心等等，儘管在達沃 水土不服、馬尼拉差點被扒、亞庇卡陰、汶萊像個幻術世界，仍促 使自己一路上不停不停的反思，無論是這些地方整體社會環境、地 理政治還是此行藝術文化與社區發展的探訪本身，再回想臺灣許多 東南亞移工和新住民境況等等，我們都不應該帶著某種姿態來解讀 這一切，齊頭式的眼界消解之後，會發現鄰近臺灣的東南亞島國文 化有非常多相似之處，卻大不相同，並且如此的多元、豐富而美麗。 八月三十一日同樣是一大清早，起飛前一個半小時才見地勤不慌不 忙地陸續進入櫃檯，等著辦理手續的旅客蜂擁而上，包括我們；當 機長廣播我們快要到了，望向窗外被陽光照得刺眼的海岸線與淡水 河，一個月東南亞的探訪之旅就要結束，帶著滿滿的收穫回到臺 灣，這趟旅程中與許許多多人事物的相遇此刻一一浮現腦海，我們 是否也能以彼此的經驗借鏡，透過藝術創作還有社會的責任出發， 為這片土地的文化盡更多心力。

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On the way south

It took from seeing the ground crew waving the airplane on its course to flying above a typhoon to the final landing of the airplane to feel like a journey was about to begin. I was one step closer to the equator. Long time no see, Southeast Asia.

It had been almost twenty years since the last time I visited the Philippines and stood in the Rizal Park. As I waited those six hours for my connecting flight to the third biggest city, Davao, the memory of people coming and going and the noise started to come back to me, the outside of the airport was exactly as busy as I remembered it. The only thing I vaguely knew about Davao was its geographic location. I was getting pretty nervous about visiting due to the raise of national security and the harsh punishment for drug dealing enforced by the Filipino president Duterte. I had unsettling imaginations of what the country might have been like. Everything I learned about the Philippines was built from living in the country for the brief period of time, interacting with locals and traveling. A city without cigarettes; armed securities and police everywhere you went (I heard from the locals that securities and police could be carrying real guns, fake guns, equipped with blank bullets or actual bullets). One could communicate in English with ease in the country and with the people immortalizing Duterte as a leader gave the society a peaceful and an indescribable sense of security. It was really different from the stereotype of what a Southeast Asian country would be like. However, being woken up by the jeepneys every morning gave me a familiar feeling of being back home in Taiwan.

I was surprised further with the complexity of the culture in east Malaysia

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after I arrived in Kota Kinabalu (especially the interesting society with the multi layered cultures), where a resilient style was born from the hardship it endured while developing the culture, there were also lively art groups creating a codependent relationship with the rural districts, all the incredible positive energies completely defied my two dimensional imaginations. Of course I had to mention my brief visit to Brunei, under the absolute power of the Islamic reign the country was full of fascinating esthetic values and sprouting appreciation for different cultures.

During my visit with Outsider Factory's project "+8 Time Zone: The Research Project for Oral Histories & Community Art in three Towns of Archipelago Southeast Asia", I visited many alternative spaces, conferences, art studios, college campuses, and community centers; though my body didn’t agree with Davao during my stay, almost got mugged in Manila, and got spooked out in Kota Kinabalu, and feeling trapped in that surrealistic nation that was Brunei; it propelled me to continue reflecting back to myself ranging from the society as a whole to the geography, to its political state or the intent of my visit which was to get a better understanding about the cultural background and the community development. As I thought back on Taiwan having lots of workers from Southeast Asia and new residents I felt we shouldn’t have a prejudgment to digest it all, without the preconceived notions, one would realize that there are a lot of similarities amongst Taiwan and the Southeast Asian countries and drastic differences as well and all of those elements make all of these countries diverse, rich, and beautiful.

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Sound Geography IV

Golden Interior

金黃色的內裏

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達沃市 Davao City

TITHING FRESH FRUIT 攤子座落在 F.INIGO st 和 J.RIZAL st 的轉角，榴蓮熟果堆積如山不 誇張，大老遠就聞得到飄香；每每晚餐結束後， 總會步行到這水果攤來晃晃，染金色頭髮的老 闆說因為這裡沒有颱風，所以氣候適合榴蓮果 樹遍佈生長，而且民答那峨南部是除了哥打巴 托 (Kotabato)、 蘇 魯 (Sulu) 和 阿 固 桑 (Agusan) 產區，菲國榴蓮最大、最好吃的產區，多達十 幾、二十幾種品種甚至有「榴蓮共和國」之稱。 帆布搭的棚子下午悶熱的時候沒客人上門，晚 飯時間後門庭若市大家像切一盤甘草芭樂那樣 選一選、秤一秤報價之後，陸續地自然入席、 談天說笑、看本土八點檔，戴好手套等著新鮮 現剖的榴蓮送上桌，有時則播送強而有力的改 版電子音樂 ( 菲語版的老鼠愛大米類型 )，點 幾瓶可樂或冰水一起享用，活像個東南亞風情 的另類夜店或酒吧。

Sound Geography IV

The stand of TITHING FRESH FRUIT was

durian and gradually gathered around tables to

on the corner of F.INIGO St and J.RIZAL St

watch some soap operas or chat with each other,

with a mountainous ripe durian pile that one

some would even put on the gloves to wait for

could detect from blocks away. I took a stroll to

the durians to be served. Sometimes the stand

this stand after dinner each night. The owner

would play strong and upbeat electronic music

with the bleached blonde hair told me that

(probably like a Filipino version of Mouse Loves

since typhoons were not a concern the weather

Rice), one could order some soda or water to

was perfect for producing durians, the southern

share, it felt just like an odd Southeast Asian

Mindanao is where one could get the largest and

nightclub or bar.

the most delicious durians besides Cotabato, Sulu, and Agusan in the Philippines. Not only does the local variations of durian vary up to twenty plus species it even has the title of Durian Republic. The fruit stand was made out of a canvas material so during the muggy afternoons no one would frequent the stand, however, after dinnertime the stand turned into a public living room, customers would select and weigh the

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Funeral

葬禮

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達沃市 Davao City ( 布罕金區 Buhangin )

傍晚下著小雨，落在椰子樹、帽沿、擋風玻 璃上有點沉悶，無預警地跟著來到了在地重 要藝術家 Padon 的葬禮 / 家裡，瞻仰遺容， 也是第一次這麼貼近地進入當地居民的生活 環境；拐彎走過石頭沙地的玄關，牆上掛著 一幅油畫作品，西式的白色棺木就靜靜放置 在簡陋木片搭建起來的房子入口，離客廳內 最大三人座的籐椅只有一公尺，上方是狹窄 的夾層臥鋪，兩旁幾盆鮮花，銀白色雕花鑲 邊的告示牌上面寫有姓名和存歿時間等，就 像馬修巴尼那白蠟做的物件裝置非常美麗； 屋外庭院裡公雞啼、母雞帶著新生雛鳥咕咕 睡去、林間嘈雜的倦鳥紛紛歸巢、眾人一邊 家常閒話、一邊聊著他的生平種種，無論所 謂此生的辛勞、事蹟、成功失敗或者往事多 麼事與願違，在此刻都已成為了過去，聽著 聽著伴隨莫名暈眩而來，各種聲響的交織已 幾近當下狀態所能承受的飽和了。

Sound Geography IV

It was drizzling around nighttime, raindrops

was as beautiful as those decorations made out

falling on coconut trees, the edge of a hat,

of white wax that were created by Matthew

and on the windshield seemed a bit gloomy, I

Barney. The roosters crowed in the front yard

accidentally had followed some people to the

as the hens cackled and fell asleep with the

house of a recent deceased important local artist,

chicks, the tired birds in the wild all returned

Padon, which also acted as his funeral to pay

to their nests to rest, the people that attended

respect to the body one last time. It was my first

the funeral gossiped about others while chatted

time experiencing such an intimate event in the

about the late artist’s life, discounting all he

locals’ lives; I took a turn and walked past the

has accomplished and the pain that he took in

little stones and sand paved entrance, there was

advancing his career, nor did they talk about his

an oil painting on the wall, a western style white

successes and failures nor how sad that he passed

coffin sat there with those simple wood scrapped

away before his time, everything at that moment

constructed entrance of the house, biggest seat

had become a thing in the past, I started feeling

in the house was only a few feet away from the

dizzy as they continued to talk about a great

coffin, above was a narrow mezzanine, there

artist that passed on, all of the sounds were

were a few pots of fresh flowers on each side.

woven together and had reached the maximum

The silver and white ornate trimmed sign had

capacity.

the artist’s name and his time of death, etc., it

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Sound Geography VI

Wonka and the Black Dog

旺卡與黑狗

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達沃市 Davao City ( 馬阿區 Ma-a )

來到達沃第八天，我們被邀請到離市區不遠、馬 阿區 (Ma-a) 的 RM.74 藝術空間，參與一個關於 兩地社區藝術經營的交流討論會，搭上計程車因 為是下班時間有點擁塞，加上郊區小路司機不熟 到處問路，在晚了表定時間快二十分鐘到達，空 間女主人 Leah 熱情的出來迎接我們，才發現原 來大家都還沒到，她笑著說這是菲律賓風格。 RM.74 空間由民房改建，穿過放了書架和辦公桌 的客廳，裡頭的一個房間作為展覽白盒子，其他 的就如同一般家庭所具備的廚房 / 浴室和主臥， 很混搭。在我們參觀的時候見到了她三個小孩和 一隻溫馴的比特犬 Wonka，憨憨的吐著舌頭，卻 是領域性極強 / 世上最兇猛的獵犬。大女兒剛放 學回來，狗狗就跟著一頭及腰長髮的二女兒到門 口迎接，門牙掉了的小兒子不喜歡穿衣服 - 披著 浴巾到處玩耍，其他與會包含樂手、影評人、獨 立媒體、跨性別藝術工作者等各領域藝文朋友也 陸續來到。 就在大家聊著聊著的時候，門外傳來犬隻驚天 動地的哀叫聲，Leah 大喊著 :「慘了慘了，一定 是 Wonka 在咬其他狗 !」眾人接連衝出大門，已 經有不少人圍觀，昏黃的路燈下只見兩團黑影揪 結，伴隨 Leah 叫喊仍無動於衷，犬隻仍不斷大 聲哀號，Lukas 提著熱水往牠們澆也沒用，最後 Leah 不顧發狂的 Wonka 可能會傷害到自己，上 前將牠倆拖拉分離連項圈都扯斷了，才化解這一 齣突發狀況，夜裡的小社區才回復平靜。在這十 分鐘左右的時間內，另一隻黑狗淒厲的喊叫聲不 曾間斷、揮之不去，大概是踏上這片土地目前最 驚人且深刻的體驗了。

Sound Geography IV

On the eighth day of being in Davao we were

As the whole group was conversing an

invited to an art space RM.74 in Ma-a, a

earthshaking howl came from outside. Leah

district near by to a panel discussing the art

blurted out “Dang it, dang it. It must be Wonka

scene between Davao and Ma-a. We got a taxi

biting other dogs.” Everyone piled out of the

because it was rush hour and was almost twenty

house, there were already people watching the

minutes late still because of the driver not being

altercation between the dogs, one could only

familiar with the area and inquired directions en

make out two blobs of entangled shadows under

route. The owner of the space, Leah, greeted us

the dim yellow street lights accompanied by

warmly, turned out no one else have arrived yet.

Leah’s shouting; the dogs continued to howl,

Leah smiled and expressed that was the Filipino

Lukas, Leah’s friend, tried to break up the fight

custom. RM.74 was renovated from a residential

by dowsing hot water on the dogs which proved

housing, after we walked past living room that

to be useless. In the end Leah went up to the

had bookshelves and an office desk there was

crazed Wonka despite possibly getting hurt

another room that acted as a display showroom,

by him and physically separated the dogs, the

the rest of the house was exactly like what you

force of Wonka’s tugging broke his collar, thus

would see in a normal household, kitchen/

concluded the terrifying incident.

bathroom and the master bedroom, very eclectic.

As we were touring around the house we saw

The small community finally restored to peace at

her three children and a tame Pit-Bull, Wonka,

night. However, within those ten plus minutes

looking all silly sticking out his tongue, however,

the other black dog’s howl never stopped, one

he was the most territorial/ ferocious hunting

could still feel the reverberation in the air.

dog. Leah’s oldest daughter had just returned

That was the most shocking and memorable

from school and the dog had already followed

experience since I got to this country.

the middle daughter with hair down to her waist to greet the eldest daughter at the door. The youngest that just lost his front teeth didn’t like to wear clothes so he was roaming around the house with a bath towel. The rest of the party included musicians, film critics, independent medias, transgender artists, and enthusiasts from all kinds of artistic background gradually arrived.

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Sound Geography III

Monuments & Jasmine

聖像與茉莉花

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達沃市 Davao City

菲律賓達沃市的宗教人口大約八成五左右為 天主教信仰 ( 少於三成的穆斯林、約兩成的基 督徒，以及其他信仰 )，市政廳對面被列為國 家財產、此地最古老的「聖佩德羅教堂」(San Pedro Cathedral) 週日從早到晚都充滿了人潮， 天剛亮的五點直到天黑，每個鐘頭輪流以英語 及宿霧語做彌撒禮拜、管風琴伴奏與領唱，結 束後排隊由主教與神父輕點額頭、領取象徵聖 餐中基督身體的聖餅，儀式全程莊嚴肅穆。 值得一提的是，18 世紀初建成時的古老聖壇 和聖彼得像還保留在現址大堂左方，手腳被摸 得光滑，從花窗和門楣等可以看出西班牙統治 時期帶來 ( 融合羅馬式、哥德式和伊斯蘭教風 格 ) 特殊的「穆德哈爾」(Mudéjar) 式建築風格， 沒有太多的富麗堂皇，大片牆面的白色與灰色 搭配卻顯得非常隆重莊嚴、又不失清新優雅， 堂外廣場總是聚集了許多小販、攤商，販賣著 不同顏色象徵不同心願類別的彩色蠟燭，微微 燭火在燻黑的鐵皮棚子下閃爍著光芒。

Sound Geography IV

The religious population in Davao was made

the ornate windows and molding revealed the

of eighty five percent Catholics (less than three

influence left from being colonized by Spain (a

percent of Muslims, around two percent of

fusion of Roman, Gothic, and Islam), MudĂŠjar

Christians and other religions). The space across

style architecture, no excessive flourishing, the

the city hall was considered national property.

towering white and gray walls are extremely

The oldest building was the San Pedro Cathedral,

dignified yet fresh and elegant. There were always

packed from dawn to dusk on Sundays, each

vendors and salesmen out in the square selling

hour presenting the ceremony in rotation of

colorful candles of different wishes and desire,

English and Cebuano. The organ accompanied

the faint candle light flickers under the smoke-

and led the hymns and the ceremony ended with

stained metal roof.

each worshiper going up to the Father to gently touch forehead with him and receive a piece of Eucharist symbolizing Jesus’ body, the entire ceremony was silent and solemn.

The notable mentions were the ancient altar and San Pedro preserved to the left of the lobby were from the beginning of eighteenth century when the chapel was first built, both have been polished by the hands of worshipers,

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Bankerohan Public Market

彩虹色市集

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達沃市 Davao City ( 拜然蓋區 Barangay )

傍 晚 的 班 克 羅 罕 市 集 (Bankerohan Public Market) 人聲鼎沸、交通混亂，包頭巾的穆斯 林小販和路人彼此呼來喊去、交警的哨音、吉 普尼 (jeepneys) 按喇叭穿梭其間搭載買完菜的 婦女和下課的學生、孩童前後追逐嬉鬧，以及 不遠處伊斯蘭教堂莊重的晚禱廣播，路燈點 亮，這些鮮活的生存狀態每天都在傍晚深藍色 的天空下發生著。 穿過橋墩到達市集的另一頭，鐵皮屋頂下幾盞 日光燈管照亮著小吃攤、撞球間、投幣式卡拉 OK 還有人潮聚集的鮮豔 Gambling Balls 賭博 檯；桌上用宿霧語寫著斗大 "PAHIBALO" 遊戲 規則，民眾在不同顏色區塊押下賭注，男子吆 喝一聲三顆球隨機滾落彩色的坑洞裡，輸掉的 紙鈔默默被收走、零錢哐啷地被投入鐵罐中， 一旁婦人五音不全的英文歌曲開嗓演唱反倒潤 滑了那幾分夜色下的歡愁。

Sound Geography IV

The Bankerohan Public Market at dusk was

large writing in Cebuano that said “PAHIBALO”

oversaturated with people, chaotic traffic, and

listed the rules of the game- players bet on

Muslims vendors wearing hijabs hollering back

different color coded areas on the table and as

and forth with the pedestrians, the whistle

the dealer hollers three balls randomly fall into

sound of the traffic officer mixing with honking

color coded holes. The money lost during the

jeepneys weaving through crowds driving

round were removed quietly from the table,

women whom just finished grocery shopping

the sound of coins tossed into a tin can for

and students that have just gotten out of school,

collection. There were ladies singing English

children playing chase with each other, and

songs whom could barely hold a tune, though it

not far ahead the muezzin’s solemn broadcast.

did add a splash of melancholy.

The streetlights came on, all of those vibrant existences happen every day under that dusky blue sky.

I crossed the bridge and reached the other end of the market, food vendors, pool table rooms, coin operated karaoke machine, and the vibrant and popular Gambling Balls betting table; there is a

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Sound Geography IV

Lost in Malate

誤闖紅燈區

42

馬尼拉 Manila ( 馬拉提區 Malate )

結束半個多月在達沃的旅行，這天下午來到馬 尼拉，出了機場就可以感受到首都的擁擠嘈 雜，小孩哭鬧的接機大廳、大量出入的旅客、 攬客搶生意的計程車攤商等 ( 已聽過非常多關 於菲律賓計程車資誇張灌水視遊客為肥羊的前 例 )，一行人拖著行李在大門外的吸菸島呼吸 也不得安寧；排隊上了計程車司機以哩程表壞 了為由堅持用喊價方式收費、爭執不下，接著 繼續忍受馬尼拉著名的塞車之苦，車水馬龍喇 叭此起彼落之間已無心享受下午的陽光、市區 公路和靠近海灣的景致。 英泰在網路上找好的旅館發現竟位於馬尼拉有 名的紅燈區，尋芳客不分白天黑夜的來去，當 天色暗下之後各家夜店、酒吧、養生館都放出 大絕招，整條街區無處不是嬉笑打鬧的女郎試 圖阻街攬客，中英日韓的打情罵俏都難不倒， 皮條客手持「菜單和價目表」、女子當街招手 眨眼，前往超商買宵夜的路上與轉角隨時都可 以被搭訕，比手畫腳之間還要當心三輪車鳴 笛和少年扒手，雖說是當地風土民情、入境隨 俗，卻可以感受到那磁場的一片混亂。

Sound Geography IV

I finished my two plus weeks of journey in

buyers came and went despite the time of the

Davao and arrived in Manila this afternoon,

day. As the sun started to set all of the nightclubs

as I stepped out of the airport I could feel the

and massage parlors began showcasing their top

crowdedness of the capitol- the arrival lobby

tier entertainment, the whole street was full of

saturated with children’s cry, a great amount

men and women flirting and checking each other

of travelers entering and exiting the city, and

out. The ladies working could maneuver through

vendors and cab drivers competing for business

languages from Chinese, English, Japanese,

(I’ve heard some intense stories about cab

and Korean, pimps held up signs of “menu and

drivers treating travelers as dollar signs). I felt

price list”; women wearing little clothing waving

suffocated from the long line of folks smoking in

and winking at people walking by. As I was on

the smoking area right outside the lobby. After

my way to get some snacks for the night I was

standing in line to get into the taxi our driver

propositioned at every corner, I had to watch out

insisted to use the flat rate because his meter

for tricycles in the street and young pickpockets

was supposedly broken, in the meanwhile we

while trying to turn down the propositions

continually suffer through the infamous traffic

through body language. Though I understood

of Manila. The busy traffic accompanied by the

the sentiment of “When in Rome, do as the

symphony assembled of car horns made one not

Romans do.” I still couldn’t help but feel a great

in the mood to enjoy the afternoon sunshine or

disturbance in the magnetic field.

the ocean view off the highway.

The hotel Ying-Tai reserved online ended up being in the red light district of Manila, the

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Sound Geography IV

Musang King

貓山王

48

亞庇 Kota Kinabalu

中午我們結束書上介紹的海南雞飯和粉條 奶行程之後，順路到郵局買幾張肖像郵票、 首日封、布袋當作紀念，窗外不知何時開 始下起大雨，趁著滂沱雨勢的間歇快步奔 走到對面的騎樓下詢問計程車，旁邊無名 水果攤的阿姨會說中文，操著廣東腔 (?)， 門口放了一台透明蛋糕冰箱，展示一盒盒 保鮮膜包覆如嬰兒肌膚般、吹彈可破的金 黃榴蓮果肉，趁著避雨大夥索性入內試試 當 地 頗 富 盛 名、 價 格 不 斐 的「 貓 山 王 」 (Musang King)，一邊咀嚼驚為天人的新鮮榴 蓮，一邊聽賣了三十年水果的阿姨說著氣 候變遷與暖化對果實收成季節和數量的影 響；今年因冬春交際的雨量少且不穩，大 大影響了榴蓮果樹花期和授粉成功率，所 以產量稀少價格自然昂貴，相比去年前年 大約翻了三倍之多。 榴蓮在東南亞又稱作「麝香貓果」(Durio zibethinus)，馬來西亞市面上主要有五種品 種，有白肉、黃肉甚至帶苦味等等；雖說 榴蓮強烈濃厚的氣味令多數人不敢恭維， 但貓山王冰涼的果肉卻出奇地嗅不出味， 入口咬下的剎那才明白了唇齒之間那綿密 溫潤、層次豐厚的口感與眾不同，直呼原 來如此，新鮮常溫的貓山王果實更是帶有 鳳梨、花朵等內斂的芳香氣味，怪不得成 了果王中的果王，在當地儼然成為精品般 行銷了。

Sound Geography IV

After we concluded the tour introduced in the

tastes bitter. Though most people are put off

book I purchased some portrait stamps and

by the pungent smell of the fruit, however, the

souvenirs on our way back. Not sure when it

chilled Musang King Durian fruit doesn’t have

started pouring outside. I quickly went across

any fragrance. It takes the first bite to fully

the street to ask about the taxi services, the lady

realize the revealed an overwhelmingly smooth

that owned the unknown fruit vendor could

and luxurious texture, and the combining

speak Chinese (though with a Canton dialect?).

with layers of flavors took turns showcasing

There is a clear refrigerator in front of the

the magnificence of the next slowly revealing

store, displaying box after box of golden yellow

as I tasted it. A fresh Musang King Durian in

durian, plumped like newborn babes cradled in

room temperature smells like a complex mix of

saran wraps to preserve its flavor. Since we were

pineapple, and flowers, and other fresh scents

looking for shelter from the rain we went inside

– it’s no wonder the Musang King Durian was

to experience the legendary Musang King. As we

crowned the king of the fruits and is sold locally

were astounded by the flavor of the fresh durian

sells as a souvenirs locally.

and we listened to the auntie who has run the shop for more than thirty years talk about how climate change and global warming has affected the time of harvest schedule and yield quantity of the fruit. This year, due to the lack of consistent rain from winter to spring , the blooming period changed dramatically and reduced the reproduction rate fell, which, automatically increased the value to three times its amount comparing to threefold over the previous year.

Durian is also known as “Durio Zibethinus”, Malaysia mostly grows plant five breeds mainly, with the flesh color varying ranging from yellow fruit to white fruit, and, even a breed fruit that

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Sound Geography IV

The Twilight Zone

虛實之地

54

汶萊 Brunei ( 斯里巴加萬 Bandar Seri Begawan )

從海上晃著踏入這個靠近赤道、國土一分 為二、出產石油、全球第四富裕、仍保有 皇室政權的伊斯蘭教國家開始，就感覺少 了什麼鮮活的成分，宛如金凱瑞「楚門的 世界」(The Truman Show) 現場；汽車不按 喇叭、嚴禁酒精與慾望、貨架排列乾淨整 齊、大街小巷一塵不染、社會一片祥和井 然有序，似乎萬物都照著蘇丹王安排好的 劇本走，早安午安晚安，只差沒摸到海洋 的佈景或路上一顆天狼星掉落，無時無刻 不想起電影最後的對白 :「什麼都是假的， 你才是真的」。 下午三點空中的雲朵凝固像壁紙圖案， 烈日曬得發暈，圓形湖面上如世界奇觀 般存在的「奧馬爾 · 阿里 · 賽義夫丁清真 寺」(Masjid Omar 'Ali Saifuddin) 開始聚集 人潮，宣禮塔的廣播系統傳來喚拜員的聲 音，為了讓虔誠穆斯林盡可能在禮拜時間 內到達，除了向四面八方播送外，喚拜詞 更是拉得又長又遠，時而綿延時而停頓， 在這個像攝影棚的世界裡，幾分鐘的喚拜 聲彷彿餘音繞樑般地持續迴盪在分不清眼 前是真是假的迷幻當中。

Sound Geography IV

Ever since I entered Brunei through the sea, a

the clouds were so still that they looked like

country that was split into two geographically,

they belonged on wallpapers, the blazing sun

close to the equator, extracted petroleum,

was disorienting. Amidst the sphere shaped

the fourth wealthiest country in the world,

lake stood the unbelievable Masjid Omar

and still maintaining the political structure

‘Ali Saifuddin. As the crowd started to fill

of a sovereign state, I couldn’t help but feel

up the temple you could hear the muezzin

something lively was missing. It felt as if one

summoning devout Muslims to prayer from

was on set for “The Truman Show” where cars

the minaret. The broadcasted voice of the

didn’t honk their horns, alcohol and sexual

muezzin was loud and elongated, paused

desires were prohibited, the display racks at

from time to time after some continuous

the stores were always neat and organized, all

chant. Being in “The Truman Show” like

the streets in the country were clean, and the

place listening to the few minutes of the

society lived harmoniously and disciplined.

summoning speech made it hard to tell what

As if all things were playing out according

was reality in front of me.

to the script written by the king of Sudan“Good morning, good evening, and good night.” The only thing lacking was the ocean backdrop and not having a star crashing onto the ground like the movie. The line in the movie kept lingering in my mind “Was nothing real? You were real. That’s what made you so good to watch.”

It was three o’clock in the afternoon and

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Sound Geography IV

Amiel with the White Hat

白色帽子的阿米爾

60

亞庇 Kota Kinabalu

1977 年 落 成 啟 用 的「 沙 巴 州 立 清 真 寺 」 (Masjid Negeri Sabah) 位於亞庇市中心南部， 另與水上清真寺、粉紅清真寺並列為沙巴 三大清真寺，交通便利鄰近機場和博物館； 經過白色綿延的雕花鐵柵欄可以找到幾個 入口、不遠處就是蜂巢狀大圓頂和宣禮塔 ( 又稱叫拜樓 ‫ةنذئم‬，阿拉伯語是燈塔的意 思 )，往北還有安葬了數位過去州長的陵墓； 黃金鍍上去的十六個小穹頂和大殿外牆寫 滿可蘭經文，以及充滿每個細節、綿延無 盡的六角形紋理，都是典型伊斯蘭建築裝 飾風格，在鴿灰色主體建物的襯托之下， 閃爍著金黃溫暖的夕陽光芒。 今年七歲的小穆斯林叫阿米爾 (Amiel)，有 印度血緣，在走廊的不遠處偷看我，回頭 見他帶著白色的禮拜帽缺一顆牙、笑得靦 腆，下樓遇到他的母親，和藹地說他剛從 讀經班放學要來接他回家，於是阿米爾非 常禮貌地向我伸出雙手，小聲地念一串禱 告詞、額頭在手上輕輕點了一下。

Sound Geography IV

The Masjid Negeri Sabah was built in 1977

bashfully with a missing tooth; when I walked

located just south of Kota Kinabalu, it was one

downstairs I met his mother whom said tenderly

of the three main masjids in Sabah along with

that she was there to pick Amiel up after his

City Mosque and Masji Putra. It was located

Quran studying class. Amiel then very politely

near by both the airport and the museum, after

held my hands, quietly chanted a phrase of

passing through a white long carved railing one

prayers and lightly touched my forearm with his

could find multiple entrances, near by was the

forehead.

hive shape dome and the minaret (‫ةنذئم‬‎ in Arabic it means lighthouse), north of the masjid is a mausoleum that contained the deceased governors. There were sixteen gold plated domes and the outside walls covered in Quran along with the hexagon patterns were all classic Islamic architectural designs, in contrast with the pigeon gray main structure underneath shimmering with the warm golden light from sunset.

The young Muslim boy who turned seven this year was Amiel, he was of Indian decent, peeked at me from a hallway near by. I turned around and saw him wearing a white prayer cap smiling

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Sound Geography IV

Jerome & Tamparuli

傑洛米與丹波羅利

66

斗阿蘭 Tuaran

這天早上十點我們從亞庇市區出發，準備 前往北邊的小鎮「丹波羅利」(Tamparuli) 與 當地生活藝術中心的社區藝術團體會面； 亞庇的市郊公車很有趣，大多都是白底藍 黑色字的十人座小巴，向司機確認目的地 之後上了車坐定位十分鐘、二十分鐘甚至 快一小時都不見司機發車，甚至有乘客索 性下車不搭了，和司機比手畫腳之間似乎 想等坐滿乘客才發動，就這樣在烈日下車 廂內烤了好長一段時間。 搖搖晃晃經過了水上清真寺、聯外公路接 著兩旁越來越茂密的樹林和荒野景致，半 個多小時的路程之後，經過一座當地非常 有名、逢下雨必淹沒無法通行的鐵橋，終 於到達這個小鎮；午飯後順著地圖來到了 社區生活藝術中心，同時也是版畫工作團 體 "Pangrop Sulap" 的活動據點之一，幾棟簡 單雙層樓建築物就座落在竹林、樟木、雞 蛋花還有楊桃、山竹等果樹環繞如度假莊 園般的地方，已經聽不太到馬路上的人車 來往，反倒是竹林後方潺潺流過的「斗亞 蘭河」(Sungai Tuaran)，四周滿佈婆羅洲的 氣息；負責人傑洛米 (Jerome Manjat) 很年輕 看起來不到三十歲，熱情地帶大家介紹過 環境之後轉往室內分享他們當地的藝術工 作團體如何以社區營造、工作坊課程、抗 爭文宣等，將木刻版畫由藝術創作提升到 在地環境與人的連結關係，更將環境保護 ( 野生動物保育 )、地理 ( 水壩興建抗爭 )、

Sound Geography IV

時事政治 ( 政治人物符號、新聞事件 )、遊

some passengers to leave the bus. I attempted to

戲 ( 蛇棋 ) 等元素加入他們的創作裡，作品

communicate with the bus driver via physical

都非常具有原生力量，也因為農村偏鄉的

gestures; he seemed to indicate wanting a full

關係，許多材料取得不易 : 如大型紙張、印

bus before departing.

刷機具等，所以製作木刻版畫時透過居民 活動的參與，以腳踏方式拓印在布料上，

We ended up sitting in the roasting bus for

而他現在也得到政府重視與支援，正熱切

quite a while. As we endured the bumpy ride we

投入當地香蕉樹造紙的技術研究，希望達

drove pass the City Mosque along the airport

到自然資源再造以及社區永續發展的理想。

ground access road for half an hour as the forest became more flourish we passed a legendary steel

在這期間我們彼此分享了許多臺灣、日本、

bridge that flooded every single time it rained,

東南亞等地不同的版畫創作、造紙文化和

we finally arrived in Tamparuli. We followed

特色，無論我們討論什麼問題，傑洛米總

the map to the Living Arts Centre, it was also

是非常誠懇且熱情地給予回應，談笑間，

the studio of the woodcut print group, Pangrok

發現那是一種真誠的共鳴狀態，身為創作

Sulap. These few simple two-story buildings sat

人保有的初衷情懷，非常非常動人，最後

behind the bamboo forest, camphor, plumeria,

他撕了一塊實驗中的蕉葉紙給我，並說希

mangosteen and star fruit, looking like a vacation

望有一天能到臺灣來看看 ( 造紙業與藝文環

resort. You couldn’t hear the traffic from the

境 )，真情流露對於世界廣袤的想望。

roads; however, one could see the Sungai Tuaran very clearly, surrounded by the perfect Borneo

On this day we departed Kota Kinabalu at 10

atmosphere. The artist in charge was Jerome

a.m. preparing to head north to Tamparuli to

Manjat, he looked really youthful perhaps under

meet the local art groups. The transit system in

30, he enthusiastically introduced the place to

the suburbs was indeed interesting. The majority

us and then started sharing how the local artist

of the buses were painted white with blue and

groups used topic such as community building,

black lettering ten-seaters, after confirming

studio workshops, and resistance literature and

the destination with the driver we got on the

elevated their art by using the art work itself to

bus, we waited ten minutes which turned into

elevate the living quality of the residents, they

twenty minutes, after an hour the bus driver still

incorporated elements such as environmental

had no intention of leaving which prompted

awareness (wildlife protection), geography

68

(protest against the building of the dam),

(the paper industry and the realm of arts and

political topics (political personnel and symbol,

culture), revealed a great sense of wonder towards

events in the news), and games (snake chess),

the world.

all of their pieces were raw and powerful.

Furthermore, due to the location of the studio a lot of the materials were hard to acquire such as large pieces of paper, printing equipments and such he and the other artists often got help from the residents such as using the weight of once body to transfer a wood-board carving creation onto a fabrics. Jerome received funds from the government, in turn has been extremely involved in the development of producing papers with banana leaves, hoping to promote natural resource upcycling and the sustainability of the community.

We shared different printmaking art from Taiwan, Japan and some other Southeast Asian countries also the paper making culture and specialty within those countries. It felt like no matter what questions we had Jerome’s voice always had such enthusiasm and earnestness, as we chatted on I realized it was an honest resonance that happened between artists, an artist’s promise to that original self and intent, it was extremely moving. In the end he tore out a section of the banana leave paper to me that was just about to be experimented on and expressed that one day he would like to check out Taiwan

Sound Geography IV

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Sound Geography IV

Fook Yuen Cafe & Bakery

富源茶餐室

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亞庇 Kota Kinabalu

星期三的傍晚，接到高森的訊息說兩位亞庇 當地的獨立製片人和音樂人要來與我們會 面，就開始期待著他們在當地的文化環境之 下，生產著什麼樣的藝術文化。 晚上九點出頭，我們相約在旅社門口，紅 白配色的計程車準時停在那，下來了三個 人，黑黑帶眼鏡自然卷的人是主唱兼吉他手 Chris，說話有一個喉音、速度很快很適合唱 重金屬的感覺，旁邊是他妹妹，另一位身材 圓潤的是身兼策展人、製片人同時也是影像 藝術家的 Egn，聲音語氣平實和藹帶微微氣 音，一個非常可愛的組合！簡單的介紹之後 我們轉往隔壁街上的富源茶餐室坐下，點了 咖啡和拉茶飲料之後，開始從大東南亞的地 理，沙巴當地的街頭塗鴉創作，聊到東馬藝 術發展遲緩甚至停滯、孤立無援的文化發展 現況，還有聽起來很荒謬但確實存在的升學 志願分配制度與求學過程的轉向思考，以及 因為地理政治宿命般的自我身份認同等，還 有許多臺灣相似狀態所提出的想法交換和討 論，收穫實在良多，而這樣聊著聊著竟然就 過了午夜，目送他們上車之後，說好下次有 機會帶我們去看看他們的表演和當地文化活 動，bye and see you soon !

Sound Geography IV

That night I received a message from Takamori-

We also talked about the seemingly ridiculous

san that an independent filmmaker and a

but actually happening system of apply for

musician both locals to Kota Kinabalu wanted to

school and having the score from the pre high

meet us, I got excited imagining what kind of art

school or the pre college exam dictate where one

and culture they were able to produce growing

should go to school and the arduous process of

up here.

one’s academic career. Of course there was also the subject of having a hard time finding one’s

We met up at the entrance of the hotel around

identity because of the complex history of their

nine o’clock in the evening, a red and white taxi

geographic location and politics. There were a lot

was promptly parked there, and three people

more similarities to Taiwan that they brought up

got off the car. Chris had glasses on with a

which they offered up ideas and conversation, I

dark complexion and curly hair, he had a raspy

got a lot out of it, the next thing we knew it was

voice and spoke really fast, probably would be

already past midnight. My friends and I watched

a great heavy metal vocalist. There was another

as they got in a taxi, they said if time permits

gentleman who was rounder, Egn, was the

next time they would like to invite us join the

filmmaker/promoter and a visual artist. He was

local performances and cultural events. Bye and

kind and spoke with a balanced voice though

see you soon !

fairly airy, next to him was his sister. After a brief introduction we went to the teahouse on the next street, we started chatting after we ordered some coffee and some Teh-tarik. The conversation went from the geography of the Southeast Asia to Sabah’s local graffiti creations, to why it was that art seemed to stall in East Malaysia and almost came to an isolated halt?

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Sound Geography IV

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Sound Geography IV

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聲音地誌 IV 達沃與亞庇 Sound Geography IV Davao & Kota Kinabalu 本書為「2016 台北雙年展 當下檔案 未來系譜：雙年展新語」之展出作品，於 2016 年 9 月 10 日至 2017 年 2 月 5 日於臺北市立美術館展出。 This brochure is published on the occasion of the exhibition Taipei Biennial 2016 Gestures and archives of the present, genealogies of the future : A new

lexicon for the biennial from 10 September, 2016 to 5 February, 2017 at Taipei Fine Arts Museum.

作者 / 編輯 / 設計 / 影像 / 文字 / 繪畫 : 劉致宏 翻譯：吳菡芸 出版日期 2016 年 11 月 版權所有，翻印必究 Author / Editor / Graphic Design / Image / Literature / Drawing : Chih-hung LIU Translator : Barbie WU C

November 2016 Chih-hung Liu . All rights reserved.