Sound Geography VI Sydney

聲 音 地 誌 VI

Sound Geography VI 【 雪梨 Sydney 】

劉 致 宏 Chihhung LIU 2016-2017

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《聲音地誌 Sound Geography》出版刊物為逐漸累積成型的「聲音 紋理資料庫」，此創作計畫從 2015 年開始目前橫跨了幾個城市 : 日本的山口、臺灣的高雄與恆春，2016-17 年間陸續完成新增的城 市樣本為臺灣臺南、菲律賓達沃、馬來西亞亞庇、澳洲雪梨與進行 中的日本東京等地，未來也將持續進行下去。 聲音會是什麼樣子？當以「身體」開發成為感受眾多聲響的聽覺器 官時，透過口述、訪查、影像凝結與抽象 / 具象素描線條的聯覺轉 化表現等，試圖將「聽覺視覺化」，並撰以在地人、物、故事等相 關資料與聲響素材蒐集，為每個在地環境豐富的文化底藴，以記錄 / 檔案創作的方式研究關於「聽覺與視覺」之間的經驗連結，並希 望留下不同城市、地域之間的對照樣本。

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The publication of Sound Geography series is meant to establish a “voice-drawing database” through gradual accumulations. This creative project currently covers several cities: Yamaguchi (Japan), Kaohsiung and Hengchun (Taiwan). The sample cities in progress--Tainan (Taiwan), Davao (Philippines), Kota Kinabalu (Malaysia), Sydney (Australia)and Tokyo (Japan)—since 2015 are due to be finished by 2017. The project is expected to proceed continuously in the future.

What would voices look like? When the “body” is developed into an auditory organ perceiving numerous voices and sounds, the “visualization of hearing” is made possible through the connection, transformation, and representation of verbal accounts, interviews, image freezing and abstract/concrete sketch lines. By collecting related data and sound materials recounting stories of local people, things and happenings, Sound Geography records/databases the plenitude of culture in each local area, and studies the empirical connections between “hearing and sight.” At the same time, it aspires to leave illustrative samples gathered from different cities and areas.

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到達赤道的另一端 澳洲雪梨 : 曾經是那麼嚮往有朝一日能造訪的地方，在這次的藝術 家駐村機會之前，沒想到願望這麼快實現，雖然已過了上半年的雪 梨雙年展，但知名地標雪梨歌劇院與港灣大橋、海港型城市多元文 化的族群融合、自然地理條件與共存共融的生態環境、歷史悠久的 原住民族文化等，以及英國統治時期沿續至今的歷史文化脈絡 ( 地 名、貨幣肖像、建築風格等等 )，都是非常吸引人造訪的原因，從 抵達的那一刻開始，就能感受到這個城市豐沛的能量；小記 : 此次 參與 105 年度文化部出國駐村交流計畫而幸運獲得前往南半球兩個 月進行駐村及創作的機會無比興奮，也是生平首度踏上南半球的國 家，想起了年紀還小的時候曾看過電視節目「繞著地球跑」，印象 深刻有一集主持人來到南半球的國家，在鏡頭前驗證了水流旋渦方 向與北半球相反的冷知識；當天到達工作室之後放下行囊，懷著興 奮的心情、做的第一件事情非常科普，就是將浴室的洗手槽放滿 水，然後拔除栓塞、觀察水流漩渦的方向，求證自己真的到達地球 磁極相反的南半球了，也是這次駐地創作身體力行的美好開端！ 此次駐村 / 生活於雪梨藝術空間位於烏魯木魯區，距市中心非常 接近的海灣旁，鄰近的兩個地鐵站 St. James 站 ( 環狀線及機場線都 會經過 ) 和 King Cross 站 ( 東西線，往東終點可去到邦代海灘 ) 都 在步行十五分鐘之內範圍，出門往左經過海灣，可選擇轉進 Borke Street 連接禁苑 (Domain) 的天橋和大草坪進入市區，或是上了階梯 經過新南威爾斯州美術館的大門口去到海德公園，St. James 站就在 公園正下方，也是商業精華薈萃的都會核心區；或是往右順著住宅 區的巷弄和砂岩步道往上到波茨點的住宅區之後，再走一小段到達

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藍線的 King Cross 站，因為地勢高度可俯瞰雪梨港灣夜景，沿途多 為高級住宅，還有許多背包客棧和異國料理就座落在街頭巷弄中， 最重要的是生活機能完善，Coles 超市即位在不遠處的地鐵站外； 往北穿過港灣和遊艇碼頭，走上石頭小徑就會進入禁苑高低起伏的 林道，以及皇家植物園的圍牆和入口，著名的麥奎爾夫人石椅就在 這片步道的盡頭；皇家植物園則是相對生活於臺灣、臺北的我們來 說，另一個奢侈夢幻的地方，大片綠蔭草皮聚集了人群享受陽光和 任何一段悠閒的片刻、多元的植栽區域規劃、以及豐富的自然生態 樣貌，還能遠眺雪梨歌劇院及港灣大橋，自第一天踏入之後即成為 了這兩個月來每天的必訪之地。

可見的幽靈 「聲音地誌」創作在到達澳洲雪梨之後，花了一些時間以密集的步 行走訪城市裡各個區域和街口巷弄，發現更甚資料中所描述的遊民 現象和數量，也許因為澳洲政府政策、許多補助津貼與保護、跳船 客、離鄉背井的青年、失業背包客等等，在街頭乞討狀況屢見不鮮， 大多附上厚紙版以奇異筆書寫各式原因，就像徘徊在城市裡「可見 的 / 無處安放的靈魂」，遂希望能以大約一根菸的時間、兩根菸的 物質做交換 / 交陪，甚至零錢硬幣捐助方式與流浪漢 / 無家可歸的 人攀談，聽取並記錄其生命故事，在有限的能力範圍裡回歸到這些 「人」的觀察，客觀勾勒出這個大城市一部份的底層生活樣貌，試 著瞭解與臺灣不大相同的流浪文化。

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To the other side of the Equator

Sydney, Australia: It had been the place I’d hoped to visit someday prior to this opportunity of artist-in-resident. I did not expect the wish come true that soon. Though the Biennale of Sydney in the first of half of the year had passed, the famous landmarks such as Sydney Opera House and the Harbour Bridge, the fusion of diverse cultures in the harbour city, the natural geography and the thriving, co-existing ecological environment, the indigenous culture with long history, as well as the historical, cultural heritage (the culture, place names, icons on the fiat money, architectural styles, etc.) of the British colonial period were reasons that draw people to visit. From the moment of arrival, I could feel the ample energy of this city.

Note: Thanks to the Project of Selecting Cultural Talents to Participate in Residency and Exchange Programs Abroad by the Ministry of Culture in 2016, I was so excited to be chosen to do the residency and work in the Southern Hemisphere for two months. This was also first in my life to step on the soil of the country in the Southern Hemisphere. I remember I watched a TV program “Circle Around The World” in my childhood.

I was impressed that in one episode, the host went to a country in the Southern Hemisphere, and verified some trivia theory of the whirlpool in the Southern Hemisphere that runs the opposite direction to that in the Northern Hemisphere in front of the camera. On the day I arrived at the studio and put away my luggage, very excited, the first thing I did was very scientific. I filled the sink in the bathroom with water, and unplugged to observe the direction of whirlpool, to prove that I was actually on the Southern Hemisphere where everything is the opposite. And that was also a great opening and practice for this residency program!

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This residency/life in Artspace was located in Woolloomooloo, Sydney, next to the bay area nearby the downtown. The two subway stations, St. James Station (the intersection of the circular line and the airport line) and King Cross Station (on the east-west line, east bound to Bondi Beach) are within the range of 15-minute walk. Turn left as you leave and pass by the cove, you may choose to turn to the overpass on Bourke St. that leads to Domain and the big lawn, or go up through the stairs and pass the gate of Art Gallery NSW to Hyde Park. St. James Stations is right below the Park, which is also the center of the business district. Or, you may turn right, go down the alleys of the residential area and a sandstone trail all the way up to the residential area of Potts Pint, and then walk a little more to King Cross Station on the Blue Line. Thanks its elevated altitude, one may overlook the night view of the bay of Sydney. There are many high-end residences along the way, as many backpacker inns and exotic restaurants sit on the roadside or are hidden in the alleys. Most important of all, the life function is brilliant. Coles Supermarket is just outside a subway station close by. If you go north, pass through the cove and the yacht wharf, and walk on a stone trail, it will take you to an up-and-down woods trail in Domain, followed by the wall and the entrance of the Royal Botanic Garden. The famous Mrs Macquarie's Chair is just right at the end of the trail. The Royal Botanic Garden, to those who live in Taipei, Taiwan like us, is a land of dream and luxury. The huge green lawn is crowded with people that enjoys the sunshine as well as every leisurely moment, the diverse areas of vegetation, and the natural ecological landscape in abundance. In addition, this is where one can overlook the Sydney Opera House and the Harbour Bridge. It had become a place I visited on a dayto-day basis for these two months ever since I came here the first day.

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Visible Spectres For this art creation of “Sound Geography”, I arrived at Sydney, Australia, and it took me a while to visit various areas, streets, and alleys of the city intensively on foot. The phenomenon as well as the number of wanderers are worse than what I had read. Perhaps it was because of the policies of the Australian government, the indigenous people that received plenty of subsidies and protection, the scenes of illegal immigrants, youth far from home, and unemployed backpackers begging on the streets were common pictures here. Most of time, there would be cardboards written with markers, telling all sorts of reasons. They were just like “visible spectres” wandering in the city. Hence I hoped I could get some exchanges/ interactions with them over a period of cigarette with goods like two cigarettes, or even some coins donated in order to talk to the wanderers/ drifters/exiles and listen to their life stories, so I might return to the observation of these “individuals” within power, and portray from an objective point of view a part of the lives at the lower level of this big city, in an attempt to comprehend the wandering culture distinctive to that in Taiwan.

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Silence over a Cigarette

一根菸的沈默

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海德公園 Hyde Park

週二早上經過海德公園，噴水池廣場依舊充滿 1

人群，一邊尋找著歷史悠久的「肥皂箱」 ， 而陽光正好的時候被公園長椅上的畫面吸引， 溫暖的陽光灑落在他沈沈睡去的身上，掏出三 明治和罐裝咖啡還有筆記本，索性坐在對面的 長椅寫生；不知道過了多久之後他終於醒來， 我上前示意遞了手中的菸給他，點著之後、聊 了幾句不著邊際的話，他都沒有反應，半張著 眼、繼續沈默吞吐手中的金色萬寶路，在我起 身打算離去之時，他打破沉默從喉嚨低沈地吐 出了他的名字：John 。

1 沿襲自英國傳統的肥皂箱演說，Speaker’s Corner 每週日下午與大眾 面對面的公共辯論及自由演說發表歷史，已經超過一百三十年，至今 仍保留這樣項傳統並於海德公園內設置了專屬講台。

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On Tuesday morning, I passed by Hyde Park.

The fountain plaza was still crowded with people.

While searching for the historical “Soapbox”

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,

I happened to be drawn to the scene on the park bench as the sunshine was right. The warm sunshine shed onto his body in sound sleep.

Therefore, I took out the sandwich and canned coffee and the notebook to do sketching on the bench right in front of it. I didn’t know how long it had passed, but he finally woke up. I approached and handed the cigarettes in my hand to him. After it was lit, I spoke of something insignificant with no response from him. He, with eyes half closed, silently smoked the Marlboro Gold in his hand. As I was about to leave, he broken the silence and uttered his name in deep and low voice: John.

1 Following the traditional speech on a soapbox in the U.K., the Speaker’s Corner is available for public debates and free speeches every Sunday afternoon. The tradition is kept for over one hundred and thirty years, as there is still an exclusive place for speech in Hyde Park to this day.

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No. 57

五十七號

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皇家植物園 The Royal Botanic Garden

工作室的窗外有一間酒吧、酒吧的後院有一棵高大的尤 加利樹，有時候天剛亮，可以聽見幾聲沙啞的叫聲，從 窗戶的縫隙望去看見幾個雪白色的身影，掠過窗邊然後 降落在遠方的樹梢，像極一群充滿活力的孩子、開心地 歡迎太陽升起，然後調皮打鬧般地喫食著枝葉與樹皮。 接近傍晚出了工作室一路經過海灣和砂岩階梯，美術館 保全正引導遊客離開，不時下著細雨，來到這第十天了 還在感冒；一路穿過大街和地下道尋訪幾位遊民朋友之 後，趁天黑前帶著唐人街買來的隨身水彩顏料組和畫布 1

與紙，去植物園找五十七號 ；包夾在都會高樓與港灣 之間的皇家植物園範圍非常大，在麥奎爾夫人石椅的這 一側小坡上、視野很好可以同時看見歌劇院和港灣大 橋，有一棵園區內最老的尤加利樹 ( 還有告示牌 )，只 要在樹下揉一揉塑膠袋或搖晃手中的麵包，五十七號 ( 如果在家的話 ) 都會從樹上探頭探腦，啊啊叫個幾聲 之後飛下來找我 ( 和我的麵包 )。早期台灣這類巴丹鸚 鵡 ( 葵花鳳頭鸚鵡 ) 曾經風靡一時，羽色潔淨純白、性 格溫馴、容易飼養又長壽，加上聰明如五歲小孩智商 ( 甚 至會玩玩具 ) 等特色，分外受到喜愛，而在澳洲的天然 環境之下漸漸繁衍出一定數量的族群，現在隨處可見。

1 園區內的鳥類如大型巴丹鸚鵡、埃及聖鳥等族群均有編列紀錄與號碼，如號碼 牌與腳環，更將鸚鵡相關研究信箱列於告示牌上，歡迎民眾隨時將關於巴丹鸚鵡的 任何發現傳送給研究專員

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Outside the window of the studio, there was a

it), under which I robbed plastic bags or waved

bar. At the backyard of the bar, there was a talk

the bread at hand, No. 57 (if present) would

Eucalyptus tree. Some hoarse screaming could

check out from the top, and cried out loud

be heard at the break of dawn at times. From

“ah, ah, ah” before flying down to me (and my

the gaps of the window, I would see several

bread). In the early days in Taiwan, this kind of

snow-white figures sweep through the window

Sulphur-crested cockatoo (Cacatua galerita) used

and land on the branches afar like a group of

to be quite popular at the time. With clean, pure

energetic children, welcoming the sun to rise

white feather color, it is tame, easy to keep as a

with joy while playing and chewing branches

pet with long life. Along with the intelligence

and barks naughtily.

like a five-year-old kid (it can even play toys), it was exceptionally well-received. In the natural

At dusk, I went out of the studio and passed

environment of Australia, it gradually thrived

through the bay and the sandstone stairway. The

and is commonly seen everywhere.

security of the museum was guiding the visitors to leave. It drizzled from to time, and I was still having a cold ten days after I had arrived. After I had gone through streets and underpasses to visit some wanderer friends, I went to the Botanic Garden to look for No. 57

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with the

portable watercolour pigments, canvas and paper I had bought from Chinatown before dark. The Royal Botanic Garden in between the tall urban buildings and the harbour was vast. On the small hill of Mrs. Macquarie's Chair’s side, the view was nice for I could see both the Opera House and the Harbour Bridge. There was the oldest Eucalyptus tree in the garden (with a sign onto

1 The birds in the garden such as Greater Sulphur-crested Cockatoo and Threskiornis aethiopicus are all tagged and numbered with number plates and foot rings. Mailboxes for parrot research would even be listed on the billboard for people to send any information regarding the Sulphurcrested Cockatoo to the researchers.

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Homeless Darryl

無家可歸的戴瑞

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烏魯木魯 Woolloomooloo

戴瑞是時常出沒在這一帶的年輕流浪漢，總是 對路過的人微笑說嗨，見他換過幾個地點， 天橋下、大馬路旁或是港口邊的公車亭，甚至 工地角落，一塊厚紙片、幾張毛毯裹著幾片紙 箱，撐起一把雨傘、打開收音機就是他的棲身 之所，無家可歸卻又哪裡都是家； 紙 板 上 寫 著「.. 因 為 犯 了 錯 等 待 判 決 結 果 中 .. 而沒有家人和朋友願意接納 / 幫助他 .. 現 在飢餓又生病了 ..」，在幾次巧遇之後主動上 前與他攀談，收音機播放著粗啞的老爵士樂， 但比起我遞給他的兩罐未開封綜合維他命，顯 然他更感興趣的是我口袋裡匡噹作響的零錢。

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Daryl was a young wanderer often seen in this

friend is willing to accept/help him…hungry

neighborhood. He always smiled and said “hi”

and sick now…” After several encounters, I

to passers-by. I had seen him move to several

went up and talked to him. The music from the

places like under the overpass, the roadside, the

radio was coarse old Jazz. Compared to the two

bus stop beside the harbour, or even a corner at a

bottles of brand new multivitamin supplements I

construction site. One piece of corrugated paper,

handed to him, however, he was evidently more

some paper boxes wrapped with several blankets,

interested in the coins in my pockets.

an umbrella, and a working radio were all his shelter. He was homeless, but any place could be his home as well.

The cardboard read, “… waiting for the sentence owing to a wrongdoing… and no family nor

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法蘭克與蛋糕

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Frank & the cake

歐緹莫 Ultimo

中國城到達令港之間有一座人來人往的天 橋，視線穿過樹叢和圍牆可以看見一座中 式東方庭園，再往前走就是達令港邊的廣 場，法蘭克一個人坐在階梯上啜泣，旁邊 還有吃一半的蛋糕；那天中午的天氣很好， 從中央車站出來之後步行至雪梨大學和白 兔美術館一帶晃晃，然後進 Coles 超市帶 上特價可頌麵包和牛奶，就順著中國城的 街道繞繞想找個地方坐下，不知不覺就到 了這座連接至達令港的天橋，橋上行人和 橋下汽車川流嘈雜，選定路旁的椅子坐下 之後附近傳來陣陣啜泣，「法蘭克 .. 十點 半…我不知道如何是好…失敗 .. 新城 ..」 僅僅幾公尺的距離讓電話應答聽得一清二 楚，那些關鍵字似乎得以拼湊出他剛經歷 了什麼傷心的事。

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In between Chinatown and Darling Harbour,

I chose a chair beside the road and sat, until I

there was a bustling overpass. An oriental garden

heard sounds of sobbing. “Frank…ten thirty… I

was on sight through bushes and a wall. A little

didn’t know what to do… failed… Newtown…”

more on foot would take one to the square

The distance of merely meters made the voice on

beside Darling Harbour. Frank sobbed on

the phone heard clearly, as those keywords were

the stairs all alone with a cake half eaten. The

pieces of jigsaw puzzle of the sad story he’d been

weather was nice at noon that day. Coming out

through.

from the Central Station, I took a stroll to the neighborhood of the University of Sydney and White Rabbit Gallery on foot. Then, I went to Coles Supermarket to purchased bread that was on sale and milk. Afterwards, I walked down the street in Chinatown, trying to find a place to sit.

I was unaware until I reached the overpass that leads to Darling Harbour. The pedestrians on the overpass and the cars underneath were bustling.

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The Mysterious One at Potts Point

波茨點的神秘客

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波茨點 Potts point ( 麥卡雷街 Macleay Street )

波茨點這裡是高級住宅區域，位於工作室後方 的砂岩山坡上，每隔幾天前往超市補給都會經 過，而麥卡雷街上也有許多從國王十字區延伸 過來的酒吧與餐廳，還有畫廊、背包客棧、洗 衣店與異國點心坊； 神秘客將一間關閉酒吧的騎樓佈置得相當舒 適，床頭堆滿了書籍是最讓人好奇的地方 ( 有 些甚至還有圖書館的標籤 )，詢問過左右的店 家之後，據說他真是個非常浪漫的流浪漢，時 常在雨天的時候聽見他對著屋簷落下的水珠有 感而發、即興作詞哼唱一曲，但我始終見不到 他「在家」的時候，只能想像著他的歌聲也許 悠揚、也許哀傷、也許對他來說這一切就是那 麼地怡然自得。

Sound Geography VI

Potts Point is the area of high-end residences

often be inspired by the raindrops falling from

in this neighborhood, which is located on the

the eaves on rainy days, and sang an improvised

sandstone hill to the back of the studio. I would

song. However, I was never had the pleasure

pass by when I went to the supermarket for

to see him “at home”. I could only imagine his

resupply every couple of days. And on Macleay

singing. Perhaps it was melodious; perhaps it was

Street, there were bars and restaurants all the

sad, or perhaps everything was like music to his

way from the area of King Cross. There were

ears anyway.

galleries, backpacker inns, laundry shops, and

​

exotic snack shops as well. The mysterious one decorated the arcade of a closed bar into a cozy place. The most intriguing part was that there were piles of books on one end of the bed (some of which were with labels of certain library). I inquired the neighboring shops. It was said that he was a really romantic wanderer. He would

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A Stranger's Home at the Bus Stop

公車亭的陌生人家

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曼利 Manly ( 潟湖區 Lagoon )

星期四的下午和在藍山遇見的荷根夫婦倆 約在曼利海邊碰面；太太頭髮銀白舉止非 常優雅、大鬍子老先生戴著草帽和細框雷 朋墨鏡、穿搭品味出眾，準時出現在他們 家附近海邊的公車亭，就像七零年代電影 裡的人物，準備一起去樹下野餐，我從荷 根太太的竹籃子裡拿出三明治，海鷗冷不 防地從頭上飛過叼走了麵包，生菜起司灑 了一地、搶成一團。 就在他們下車的公車亭裡頭 ( 正反兩面 )， 幾個塑膠籃整齊堆放了許多日用雜物，座 椅還鋪上了毛毯與床墊，似乎有人居住， 另一邊的椅子底下甚至放了行李箱、電熱 水壺和幾本旅遊書，荷根先生笑說，「家 門外就是碧海藍天，住這兒的陌生人看來 是個很會享受生活的人，住在這裡都不用 出門旅行了！」

Sound Geography VI

On Thursday afternoon, I met with Mr. and

the chair on the other side, there was even a

Mrs. Horgen at Manly, whom I had met in Blue

luggage, an electric kettle, and some travel books.

Mountain. The Mrs. was exceptionally graceful

Mr. Horgen smiled and said, “It is blue sky and

with silver-white hair, while the old Mr. wore a

blue sea right outside at the doorstep. It seems

big beard, a straw hat, and a Ray-Ban thin frame

our stranger here is a man who knows how to

sunglasses, quite a stylish outfit. I showed up on

enjoy life. You don’t need to get out to travel by

time at the bus stop at the beach nearby their

living here!”

home. Like the people from the movies of the 70s, we were going to picnic under the tree. I took out a sandwich from Mrs. Horgen’s basket.

A seagull flied down and took the bread all of sudden, spreading the lettuce and cheese all over as they fought for food.

At the bus stop (both sides of the shelter) where they got off, there were several plastic baskets, in which daily articles put in a neatly fashion. There were even blankets and mattress on the chair. It appeared that someone lived here. Underneath

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Roaming on the sea

海上漫遊

50

雪梨港灣大橋 Sydney Harbour Bridge ( 岩石區 The Rocks / 環型碼頭 Circular Quay )

在雪梨駐村創作的這段期間，除了步行與 地鐵之外 ( 交通費不便宜 )，常在週末抓緊 澳寶卡的優惠，利用來回兩趟就是當日收 費上限的方式，卯起來搭船！從工作室出 發，步行十五分鐘、穿過植物園就到了歌 劇院，再走五分鐘的距離就是環型碼頭， 因為雪梨港灣區的特殊地理環境，環型碼 頭變成許多一灣之隔地點和小島的連接中 樞，有時還會見到停泊的巨型郵輪，某天 傍晚曾經在回程時段被迫待在海面上吹風， 等待郵輪出航；回想起來非常喜歡這樣的 水路交通方式，雖然相對陸路耗時，但每 每往返於曼利、屈臣氏灣、動物園和鸚鵡 島等地，坐在船上的兩側甲板，聽著引擎 運轉混合海水與風聲，看著漸變的天際線、 夕陽西下曬成橘紅色的沿岸，或是在夜裡 燈火璀璨的月神公園岸邊讀一篇岩石區的 囚犯流放故事，都是一大享受。

Sound Geography VI

In the duration of artist-in-residence in Sydney,

more time than via land transportation, every

beside traveling on foot and by subway (the fare

time I traveled between Manly, Watsons Bay,

was not cheap), I often took the advantage of the

the zoo, and Cockatoo Island, I would sit on

discount of OPAL Card on weekends, either two

either side of the deck, listening to the engine

rounds to and fro or the maximum charge per

running mixed with the sounds of seawater and

day, and took boats as many as I could! Leaving

the wind as I gazed at the shifting skyline, the

from the studio, it took me fifteen minutes to

coast in tangerine color at dusk, or the Luna

get through the Botanic Garden to the Opera

Park with lights all lit. All of these were quite an

House, and another five minutes’ walk to the

indulgence.

Circular Quay. Thanks to the unique geological environment of Sydney Harbour, the Circular Quay becomes the hub of many islands and destinations perhaps just one bay away. You may see gigantic ocean liners anchoring from time to time. Once on my way back, I was forced to stay on the sea with wind blowing, waiting for a liner to set sail. As I recall, I liked this kind of transportation via sea. Even though it took

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悲傷的米契

56

The Sadness Mitch

喬治街 George Street

藍色眼珠、留著灰白色大鬍子、光頭的 米契的故鄉在一個名為庫克爾立合的地 方，是西澳大利亞州公路旁的小城鎮，沿 著 20 號公路往北可以到大城市伯斯；米 契的外表看起來非常乾淨，視覺年齡比實 際年齡小很多，在西方人之中是少見的案 例，談吐優雅但不時透露出一絲滄桑哀怨 的氣息；談天的過程中才知道原來他曾有 過一段婚姻，小孩的照片還放在皮夾裡， 就像電視劇的芭樂劇情一樣，因為吸毒坐 牢剛出獄搞得自己妻離子散、流離失所 等，但始終隻字不提為何流落至雪梨街 頭，也許那又是另一段故事；無論這些是 否為獲取同情而編造的故事，我始終相信 會以流浪者身份出現在這裡的人們，必定 都有一段傷心往事；與米契前後幾次見面 的這一根菸時間裡，聽他說了些故事、遙 想從家鄉海岸遠眺的印度洋和偶爾悲從中 來的幾句呢喃，好似跟著看了一場電影、 閱讀一本小說般，總是會想帶上幾個蘋 果、麵包和便宜紅酒，一起分享彼此的生 命故事。

Sound Geography VI

Bald Mitch with blue eyes and ash grey beard

recalling the view of the Indian Ocean from his

came from a place called Kookernup. It was

hometown as well as some chanting out of grief.

a small town by some highway of Western

It was like watching a movie or reading a novel.

Australia. If you take Route 20 to the north, you

I had always wanted to bring along some apples,

can reach the big city Perth. Mitch appeared to

bread, and cheap red wine to share our life

be quite clean out the outside, and he seemed to

stories together.

be much younger than he actually was, which is rare for the Western people. He talked in an elegant manner, and yet with a tint of sadness.

In the conversation, I came to know that he used to have a marriage. A picture of his kid was still in his wallet. It was like the melodramatic TV drama. He got himself divorced and a broken family due to drug issue, and therefore was wandering homelessly. Yet, he mentioned not a word about why he became a wanderer on the streets of Sydney. Perhaps that was yet another story. Whether the stories were made up to earn sympathy or not, I always believe that the people show up here as wanderers all have a sad story of their own. On the several encounters with Mitch over a cigarette, I listened to his stories,

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Sound Geography IV

聖誕帽吉米

62

Jimmy the Christmas Hat

拜翁 Bywong

我：「為什麼你要戴著聖誕帽？」​ 吉米：「我喜歡聖誕節，但這裡的聖誕節 很熱 ! 對我來說，每天都像是聖誕節，我待 會還要趕著去發禮物呢 !!」然後手指著地上 的幾個行李袋 ...​ 從雪梨出發之後，轉了地鐵、火車終於搭 上了前往雪山金達拜恩的客運；途中經過 了拜翁小鎮休息，遇見了獨自帶著聖誕帽 的吉米，但現在是十月；山坡上的小徑、 綿羊和草地，還有呼嘯而過的樹和湖泊， 睡著之前的最後一眼的印象很美，再醒來 時長途巴士拋錨在夜色裡，車子已經停在 淒風冷雨的公路旁發呆，司機開了燈然後 跟大家悠哉地說著冷笑話，打發時間。

Sound Geography VI

I: “Why you’re carrying a Christmas hat with

the trees and lakes dashing through behind, the

you?”

last image before falling asleep was beautiful.

Jimmy: “I like Christmas, but it's really hot

Next time I woke up, the tour bus broken down

when in Christmas. Every day is Christmas to

at night. The bus had been parked aside the

me. I will have to go deliver presents later on”;

highway in the windy, rainy night. The driver

then pointing the luggage on the ground...

turned on the light and cracked some jokes with everyone in a laidback manner to kill time. ​

Leaving from Sydney, I made a transfer to the subway and the train, and finally got myself on the bus bound to Snowy Mountains and Jindabyne. We stopped by Bywong for a break on the way, and I met Jimmy with a Christmas hat on his own. It was October, nevertheless.

The trail on the hill, the sheep, the meadow, and

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Your Eyes are the Flower during the Day

你的眼神是白日的花朵

68

牛津區 Oxford Street

離開澳洲的前幾天，郵局寄完包裹回程的 路上順道繞去生活了兩個月從未造訪的牛 津區以及帕丁頓市集晃晃，牛津區可以看 到林立的商店、酒吧還有許多設計相關的 元素，以及彩虹旗飄揚的特殊氛圍，是雪 梨非常具有歷史的彩虹文化活動區域，每 年的同志遊行都在這裡舉型；正當沈浸在 新鮮感的心情之下，遇到了一個奇妙的人， 發現一名男子大白天就在牛津區的馬路人 行道上坐臥著，倚靠行道樹、似乎醉得站 不起來了，經過他身旁的時候被他叫住， 吵嚷了一串聽不懂的內容之後說到「嘿！ 你相信嗎，相信這個世界嗎？」「我不相 信的，但我相信有一天我可以改變這他 X 的世界，你也可以 !」「我是說真的！」說 完便打了一個酒嗝、將身旁插在酒瓶裡的 花遞給我，接著沈默了然後若有所思地望 向遠方； 我們都安靜了，他那眼神清澈而透明，跟 那朵花的顏色一樣。

Sound Geography VI

Days before leaving from Australia, I went to the

day, and you can, too.” “I mean it!” Afterwards,

neighborhood of Oxford Street and Paddington

he burped, and handed over a flower in the wine

Market on my way back after sending parcels at

bottle to me. Then, he silenced and gazed afar,

the Post Office. These were places I had never

dwelling in thoughts.

been for the two months over there. Various stores, bars and elements of design could be

We were all silence. His eyes were crystal clear,

seen in the neighborhood of Oxford Street,

and the color was the same as the flower.

along with the unique atmosphere with the flying Rainbow Flags. This is the area of rainbow culture that has been developed very early in Sydney. The annual Gay and Lesbian Mardi Gras takes place here every year as well. As I enjoyed the sense of novelty at the moment, I encountered some intriguing individual. I found a man sitting on the sidewalk of Oxford Street in broad daylight, lying against a roadside tree, seemingly too drunk to stand up. When I passed him by, he called me, mumbling strings of words. Then, he said, “Hey! Can you believe it, believe in this world?” “I don’t. But I believe I can make a change for the fucking world one

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特別感謝澳洲的朋友們，李亞、Zoe、一杯和 Kay 在此次駐村創作期 間以及聲音地誌創作過程給予的幫忙、帶路與協助。 Special thanks to my friends in Australia whom aided me through out the process of my residency, Ya LEE, Weiling Zoe YEN, Ris Ris YEH and Kay.

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聲音地誌 VI 雪梨 Sound Geography VI Sydney

出版與贊助單位 Publisher & Sponsor : 財團法人國家文化藝術基金會

駐村計畫與合作單位 Residency Program & Institution : 中華民國文化部、澳洲雪梨視覺藝術中心 (ARTSPACE)

作者 / 編輯 / 設計 / 影像 / 文字 / 繪畫 : 劉致宏 翻譯：陳柏維 出版日期 2017 年 12 月 初版 版權所有，翻印必究 Author / Editor / Graphic Design / Image / Literature / Drawing : Chihhung LIU Translator : Jasper CHEN C

December 2017 Chihhung LIU . All rights reserved.

ISBN : 978-986-90225-2-1 ( 平裝 )