Sound Geography V Coastal area of Tainan

聲音地誌V

Sound Geography V 【 臺南臨海 Coastal area of Tainan 】

劉 致 宏 Chihhung LIU 2016-17

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《聲音地誌 Sound Geography》出版刊物為逐漸累積成型的「聲音 紋理資料庫」，此創作計畫從 2015 年開始目前橫跨了幾個城市 : 日本的山口、臺灣的高雄與恆春，2016-17 年間陸續完成新增的城 市樣本為臺灣臺南、菲律賓達沃、馬來西亞亞庇、澳洲雪梨與進行 中的日本東京等地，未來也將持續進行下去。 聲音會是什麼樣子？當以「身體」開發成為感受眾多聲響的聽覺器 官時，透過口述、訪查、影像凝結與抽象 / 具象素描線條的聯覺轉 化表現等，試圖將「聽覺視覺化」，並撰以在地人、物、故事等相 關資料與聲響素材蒐集，為每個在地環境豐富的文化底藴，以記錄 / 檔案創作的方式研究關於「聽覺與視覺」之間的經驗連結，並希 望留下不同城市、地域之間的對照樣本。

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The publication of Sound Geography series is meant to establish a “voice-drawing database” through gradual accumulations. This creative project currently covers several cities: Yamaguchi (Japan), Kaohsiung and Hengchun (Taiwan). The sample cities in progress--Tainan (Taiwan), Davao (Philippines), Kota Kinabalu (Malaysia), Sydney (Australia)and Tokyo (Japan)—since 2015 are due to be finished by 2017. The project is expected to proceed continuously in the future.

What would voices look like? When the “body” is developed into an auditory organ perceiving numerous voices and sounds, the “visualization of hearing” is made possible through the connection, transformation, and representation of verbal accounts, interviews, image freezing and abstract/concrete sketch lines. By collecting related data and sound materials recounting stories of local people, things and happenings, Sound Geography records/databases the plenitude of culture in each local area, and studies the empirical connections between “hearing and sight.” At the same time, it aspires to leave illustrative samples gathered from different cities and areas.

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沙洲、釣客、鹽田與台十七線

從 2014 年夏日踏遍淡水、三芝、石門、金山、萬里等北海岸 沿途開始，來到 2016 年末的西南沿海，秋冬依舊如夏季般溫 暖少雨，府城除了歷史悠久的常民信仰和豐富的文化資產外， 還有生態豐富的濕地環境、特殊的地理景觀如潟湖、港汕 ( 沙 洲 )，以及水產養殖行業等等，此次帶著《聲音地誌》的出 版計畫和延伸創作展覽來到齁空間，決定沿著西南濱海的台 十七線公路，蒐羅關於地理、景觀、傳統產業、文化風土、 鄉野傳奇等數則路上觀察取樣。 此次《聲音地誌》的延伸創作的展覽《十一月，興安》現場 以牡蠣外殼製成的顏料，書寫文字、陳列物件、影像與裝置 等方式呈現「聲音地誌：台南沿海踏查取樣三篇」，在翻閱 文獻的時候發現一句諺語：『鯤鯓陳，喜樹蔡，灣裡杜，白 砂崙蘇』，可以由地名對應得知各庄大宗姓氏的分布，雖然 時代變遷無論人口遷入或外流，當地村落仍依稀可見多數的 姓氏群聚；另有「安平海釣」與「草蝦與石斑」兩篇幅。現 地製作的「鎮海將軍」也由壁畫、記錄書寫、物件與裝置等 形塑「情境」，描述這則鄰里間廣為流傳的奇談軼事與實際 走訪感受。「聲形柱 _ 台南臨海」則取自沿岸各地區採集來

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的聲音紋路段落，北起蚵寮、北門、馬沙溝、青鯤鯓、七股， 往南到鹿耳門、四草、安平、漁光島以及高雄縣境內的白砂 崙和茄萣等地，經由串連片段聲波圖紋，立體轉化，具現了 由北到南的沿岸音象地景。 齁空間的展覽結束之後，2017 年仍持續為了取材來回台十七 線南北馳騁數次，記得剛過完農曆新年，和建志、佳璇還去 了一趟鹽水蜂炮；總是難忘順著海風與那鹹鹹的味道、前往 夕陽與極西之地的午後，還有破碎的道路兩旁是一望無際的 濕地與鹽田，快要融化了靈魂的燠熱，馬達小舢舨來回穿梭 在潟湖上滿佈的竹棚與蚵架之間，一陣風吹起漣漪、揚起水 波的沁涼聲響；時光推移，儘管前後短短不到一年的光景， 許多事物和地貌已經改變，不復從前；和檳榔攤的阿姨聊著 眼前已成土堆的養殖場和小廟最後何去何從的同時，腦海隱 隱浮現了這樣的感觸「世界上沒有什麼是不會改變的；現在 / 現實的一切榮景，也會成為未來的廢墟」。

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Sandbank, Anglers, Salt Fields & Provincial Highway No.17 I traveled across the north coast like Tamsui, Sanzhi, Shimen, Jinshan, and Wanli in the summer of 2014. It was warm and less rainy like summertime during the autumn and winter at the end of 2016 in Tainan. In addition to the aged-old folk religion and rich cultural heritage, Tainan has wetland environment with diverse biology, unique geological landscapes such as lagoon and sandbank, as well as aquaculture industry. Now that I would go to Howl Space with “Sound Geography” project and derivative exhibition this time, I decided to traverse Taiwan Provincial Highway No.17 along the southwest coast to observe and take samples of geography, landscape, traditional industries, culture and customs, folklores and legends.

“November, Hsin-An “, the derivative exhibition of “Sound Geography”, showcased “Sound Geography: three samples from the investigation along the coast of Tainan” with pigments made of oyster shells, written texts, object display, images, and installations. First of all, one proverb was discovered from the review of literature: “Chen in Kunshen, Tsai in Sishu, Tu in Wanli, and Su in Baishalun”, from which we may learned about the distribution of various major clans accordingly. Despite the change in time and the influx/efflux of population, clusters of major family names in the local villages can still be detected. Two essays Fishing at Anping and Grass Shrimp and Grouper were presented as well. “General Zhenhai”, an artwork created on site, also presented a “scenario” with wall paintings, written records, objects, and installations to capture the anecdote known to the locals and the personal account from the visit. “Sound Shape_the Coast of Tainan” collected sections of sound patterns from the places along

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the coast starting from Keliao, Beimen, Mashagou, Qingkunshen, and Cigu in the north to Luermen, Sihcao, Anping, Yuguang Island as well as Baishalun and Cieding within the former Kaohsiung County border in the south. Through sequencing the sections of sound wave patterns, it was transformed into a 3D piece to demonstrate the soundscape from the north to the south along the coast. “Reincarnated Stone” was made of the discarded Styrofoam found at the shore, which was excavated and carved like ores, so that it may, apart from deserted onshore, transform and be reborn organically after the loss of its original function. ​After the exhibition at Howl Space, I had already traveled to and fro the Provincial Highway No.17 several times in 2017. I could still recall that after Chinese New Year, Kenji, Chiaxuan and I went to Yanshuei to see Fengpao (beehive crackers). The sea breeze and the salty taste on the road to sunset and the westernmost land in the afternoon are things hard to forget.

On both sides of the fractured road, there were endless wetlands and salt fields under the soul-melting heat. Amidst the bamboo sheds and oyster racks on the lagoon, a motor buso traversed back and forth. A gust of wind brought forth ripples and refreshing sounds of water waves. As time went by, many things and landscapes had changed permanently even though it was less than one year. While chatting with the lady of a betel nut stand about the mound that used to be an aquafarm and the whereabouts of a small temple, I had feeling that “nothing in the world remains unchanged; the prosperity at present/in reality may become ruins in the days to come”.

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Grass Shrimp and Grouper

草蝦與石斑

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茄萣 Qieding ( 崎漏 Qilou )

出了臺南市區，沿著台十七線往南的路上， 會經過濕地、墓園、鐵皮工廠、防風林、 馬場和二仁溪出海口 ( 有名的「綠牡蠣」那 條溪 )，橋上有許多釣客和橘紅色的檳榔渣； 臺灣西南沿海早期的養殖業非常興盛，過 了二仁溪之後，長長海堤旁邊都是草蝦、 石斑的養殖場，有的抽水馬達還在運作， 但更多的則已經破敗頹圯，沒落的原因有 很多，如泰國蝦進口價錢有競爭力、蝦苗 養殖條件低、石斑魚的養殖技術轉移大陸 而嚴重衝擊台灣市場等，還有政府的都市 更新計畫，眼前殘破的工寮和魚塭已不復 往日榮景；一天下午我們站在海提上，聽 著里長說當時的價錢多好、冬日寒害的欲 哭無淚、同行禁忌八卦等，一邊望著雜草 叢生的繁殖場想像從前，最具體的，大概 只剩牆上那斑剝的魚蝦彩繪壁畫了。

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Out of the downtown of Tainan City and on

farming was low, and the aquaculture techniques

the Provincial Highway No. 17 southbound,

for grouper farming had been transferred to

you would travel across wetlands, cemeteries,

Mainland China, which impacted Taiwan’s

factories in iron-sheets, wind break forest, horse

market in return, let alone the urban renewal

farms, and the estuary of Erren River (once

plans by the government. The glorious days

notorious for the “green oysters” incident), on

for the now dilapidated labor lodging and the

the bridge of which were lots of anglers.

aquafarms had been long gone. Some afternoon we stood on the sea bank, and listened to the

The aquaculture industry along the southwest

borough chief talk about how nice the prices had

coast used to be quite popular in the early days.

been, the quandary in the face of winterkilling,

After crossing over Erren River, one may see

and the taboos and gossips in this line of business

aquafarms of grass shrimps and groupers all

while we gazed at the desolated aquafarms,

along the long embankment. Some still have

picturing their glorious past. The most vivid

water pump motors operational, but many more

picture, however, was the shabby color painting

others were already ruined. The reasons for their

of fish and shrimps left on the wall.

wane were various, e.g. the price of the imported giant river shrimps had more competitive advantages, the barrier to entry for shrimp larvae

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General Zhenhai

鎮海將軍

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北門 Beimen ( 井仔腳 Jingzaijiao )

西南沿海可以發現因為歷史地緣 ( 早期漢 人來臺開墾 ) 以及常民信仰和文化習慣 等，許多冠以「爺」「公」「媽」「姑娘」 「百姓」等稱號的小祠，祭祀水流屍、海 難或械鬥等死者，也有部分神格化之後成 為「游水將軍 / 鎮海元帥」，甚至有了神 像，伴隨著神蹟 / 事蹟或鄉野奇談，就這 麼流傳下來。鎮海將軍的傳說有幾種版 本，相傳北門庄的母豬逃至井仔腳，一說 受驅趕而奔逃落海、一說被宰殺食用而冤 魂作祟，後來由庄內大廟興安宮的紀府千 歲收服立廟，人稱「鎮海將軍」、「豬母 娘娘」，神像亦為特殊少見的豬面金身。 還記得興安宮的廟祝遙指海堤的方向說： 「你穿過井仔腳 ( 鹽田 )，直直過去，有 沒看見那棟白色的高台和風剪樹，順著堤 防走，旁邊的那間 ( 小廟 ) 就是了。」

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Du e t o t h e h i s t o r i c a l a n d g e o l o g i c a l

was being chased down into the sea, while

backgrounds (Hans from Mainland came to

the other version says it was butchered and

Taiwan to settle in the early days), common

became a dish on the table, and it turned

beliefs, and cultural customs, one may find

into a haunting specter ever since until it

many small temples along the southwest coast

was subdued by the deity Lord Ji of Xing-An

with titles like “Master”, “Lord”, “Madam”,

Temple in the village. Afterward, a temple

or “Lady”, in which the deceased found

was erected to worship the sow, also known

in river streams, fallen in the sea, or killed

as “General Zhenhai” or “Madam Pig”. The

in conflicts are worshiped. Some of them

statue of the deity is gilded with gold and

are even promoted to deities and become

has a pig face, which is rarely seen. I still

“General Youshui” (General of Swimming)

remember the abbot of Xing-An Temple

and “General Zhenhai” (General of Sea

pointed at the embankment afar, saying “You

Appeasement), or even have their own

just go through Jingzaijiao (salt field) and all

statues. They survive with some miraculous

the way through. Do you see the tall white

deeds/signs or folklores. There are several

platform and the wind-cut trees over there?

versions of General Zhenhai’s legend. It is

Follow the embankment, and the one on the

said that one sow from Beimen Village fled

side (small temple) is what you’re searching

to Jingzaijiao. Then, one version claims it

for.”

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Lost in Malate

諺語一則

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鯤鯓、喜樹、灣裡、白砂崙

Kunshen, Sishu, Wanli, and Baishalun

在翻找資料的時候發現一句早期諺語 :「鯤鯓 陳、喜樹蔡、灣裡杜、白砂崙蘇」， ( 由北到 南 ) 說的是早期臺南沿海四鄉鎮地名與大宗姓 氏的聚落分佈，現在因為時代變遷、鄉鎮開發 程度、人口外流 / 移入等，實際走訪四地一趟 之後發現，喜樹、灣裡一帶仍可從許多地方發 現群聚痕跡，還看得庄裡見那多數姓氏，如喜 樹的門牌 ( 蔡寓 )、灣裡的杜姓宗祠等；從安 平港區的鯤鯓里，一路沿著海線往南到鯤喜海 岸跨過線道彎進喜樹，再往南走過一座橋就是 灣裡，然後就是白砂崙了。

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I uncovered a proverb in the early days as I

be detected. In the villages, I could still see the

browsed the materials: “Chen in Kunshen, Tsai

corresponding major clans’ family names, such

in Sishu, Tu in Wanli, and Su in Baishalun”. It

as those on the door plates (Tsai Residence) in

refers to the four communities along the coast

Sishu and the Tu Clan Ancestral Shrine in Wanli.

of Tainan (from the north to the south) and the

Starting from Kunshen Borough in the bay area

allocation of the major clans in the early days.

of Anping Harbor, travel along the coastline

Now that the time has changed and owing to

down south to the Kunxi coast, pass over an

the varied development of communities and

arterial road, and make a turn to Sishu; continue

the influx/efflux of population, I found after

to travel southward and pass through a bridge,

visiting the four communities that in the areas of

you will find yourself in Wanli, and Baishalun

Sishu and Wanli, traces of clustering could still

that after.

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Sunbath

日光浴

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青山漁港 Qingshan Fishing Port

忘了幾年前為何來過鯤溟里的這個小漁港： 青山漁港，念念不忘當時燙口的炸蚵嗲和薄 透的曬乾蝦皮；下午在社區和港邊繞繞的時 候，遠遠聽見婦女們此起彼落的抬槓，和木 板輕敲的聲音，好奇心驅使下前往聲音的來 源，原來就在港邊的路旁 ( 海景第一排 )， 阿姨們頭戴斗笠、正在翻曬木板上的烏魚 子，橘紅色的烏魚子平鋪在五顏六色的布條 上逐漸失去水分，快手翻面的同時，聽起來 就像某種固體輕敲木板那般清脆；熱情的阿 姨們國語台語七嘴八舌的說「今天嘟開始做 啦，一點鐘要翻一次，要曝一整個禮拜」、 「親像日光浴啦」、「九 / 叔 / 叔一 / 叔阿 夜 / 寺個季賊啦 ( ＊九、十、十一、十二月 四個季節啦 )」、「秋天做到冬天，溫加的 烏魚子 hen 好粗喔 ( ＊我們這的烏魚子很 好吃喔 )」

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Kind of forgot why I came years ago to this small

there in Mandarin and in Taiwanese mixed up,

fishing port at Kunming Borough: Ching-Shan

“We started only today. Flip once every hour

Fishing Port. I could never forget the piping-hot

for sun-drying. It will take a whole week.” “Just

Deep Fried Oyster and the skin-thinned, sun-

like sunbath”, “September, October, November,

dried shrimp shells. Strolling at the community

December for four times.” “Working from fall

and the port area in the afternoon, I heard the

to winter; our mullet roes are really yummy”.

chitchats of females and the tapping sounds of

(Mostly in Mandarin, mixed with Taiwanese in

wood board from afar. Out of curiosity, I went

between)

seeking the source of the sounds. It turned out that on the roadside of the port (first row of sea view), several ladies wearing bamboo hats were flipping mullet roes for sun-drying. The mullet roes that carried the color of tangerine lay on colorful cloth stripes, losing their moisture. As the ladies flipped quickly, the sounds they made were crispy clear like something solid hitting the boards. The passionate ladies talked here and

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Fishing at Anping

安平海釣

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漁光島 Yuguang Island

12 月過了幾天，來到台南第二週了不小心 感冒，喝一碗魚皮湯隨便解決了午飯就到安 平海邊晃晃； 順著路標過了一座橋、兩旁都是高大木麻黃 的漁光島，地面出現淤沙，直覺地慢下來尾 隨一輛腳踏板放著冰桶的機車彎進小路，來 到一處無盡延伸至海面的堤防，跟著那人停 好車，俐落地鑽進柵欄，已望見許多釣客熟 絡地打招呼、等著架好的魚竿搖動；阿偉、 忠仔和明哥相約來這裡釣魚，裝備齊全的他 們，一人數把釣竿、還有兩支藍白相間的遮 陽傘，卸下綁在欄杆上的腳踏車之後，前往 釣點；接著就看忠仔從組裝釣竿、穿線、安 裝架竿器、浮標到魚鉤，接著從水桶裡抓起 一尾小魚鉤上，咻地甩出去、架勢十足，防 滑、回捲魚線然後固定，點一根菸、一氣呵 成；不久後聽見幾聲吆喝然後堤上騷動著， 只見海面上一尾大魚載浮載沉，他們在堤上 收著線、準備撈網，好不容易拉上岸後發現 是一尾黑鯛，兩排牙齒圓圓，明哥用台語說 「看起來午三四斤喔，今暗加菜！」然後笑 呵呵地放進冰桶、敲碎一袋冰塊保鮮。

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After a few days in December, I accidentally

small fish from a bucket to hook it up, and cast

caught a cold on my second week in Tainan. A

it out like a pro. Non-slip measure taken, fishline

bowl of fishskin soup was all my lunch before

reeled back and fixed, and a cigarette lit. No

going to the coast of Anping.

sweat. Before long, shouting burst and excited the crowd. One big fish was up and down on

I followed the signs and passed through a bridge

the surface of the sea, as they were reeling back

and Yuguang Island with Casuarina on both sides

the line on the bank and readied a net. As soon

of the road. Then, silt was found on the road, so

as it was onshore, it was determined as a black

I followed my instinct and slowed down. Next,

sea bream with two rows of round teeth. “It

I followed a motorcycle with an ice bucket on

looks like less than three or four catties. It shall

the footrest. I came to an endless embankment

be one dish for dinner tonight!� said by Ming in

stretching into the sea. I parked my bike as the

Taiwanese, as he put the fish into the bucket and

guy did and swiftly slipped through the fences. I

smashed a bag of ice in to keep it fresh, smirking

saw many anglers greeted to each other already,

in triumph.

waiting for the fishing rods on the holders to shake. Wei, Chung, and Ming came fishing together. Well-equipped with several fishing rods for each one, they even had two blue-and-white parasols. After unloading the bicycles tied to the railings, they went straight to the fishing spot.

Next, Chung assembled a fishing rod, tied the angling line, and installed the fishing rod holder, the buoy and the hook. Then, he snapped a

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Fan-Shaped Saltern

扇形鹽田

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青鯤鯓 Cingkunshen

數不清次數地來回在台十七線上，一路往北的 方向只記得兩旁有田、有廟、有色色的小吃 部招牌，還有無數條小路可以往左通到海邊、 鹿耳門聖母廟、登陸社區，往右去到漚汪、將 軍和苓子寮，沒想到在青山港汕的沙洲地形 上，介於鯤鯓漁港到將軍漁港以南這一段海岸 中間，藏著一片建於戰後 1977 年、獨一無二 的放射狀扇形鹽田，衛星空照圖清晰可見大小 蒸發池和結晶池，還有扇形兩側的航道，2002 年廢曬之後這裡的時空好似靜止，傍晚站在弧 形的鹽田埂中間，聽海風幽幽吹過那淺淺的水 面，一波接著一波。

Sound Geography V

Traveling back and forth on Taiwan Provincial

fan-shaped saltern built in 1977 after war.

Highway No. 17 countless times, all I remember

From the satellite image, evaporation pools and

to the direction of north are farmlands, temples,

crystallization pools in various sizes as well as the

and all sorts of diners’ signs on either side of the

channels on both sides of the saltern are clear

road. Also, numerous lanes to the left lead to

to see. The saltern seems to be frozen in time

the coast, Luermen Mazu Temple, and Denglu

after its abolishment in 2002. Standing on the

Community, while those to the right lead to

arc-shaped ridge in the middle, you will hear

Ouwang, Jiangjyun, and Lingziliao. To my

the whisper of sea breeze as it glide through the

surprise, on the terrain of Ching-Shan-Kung

shallow surface of the water.

Sandbank and the coast in between Kunshen Fishing Harbor and Jiangjyun Fishing Harbor southward, there lies a one-of-the-kind radial

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The Final Sunset

最後一道夕陽

48

鯤鯓漁港 Kunshen Fishing Port

托區公所替代役男熟門熟路的福，我們幸 運地成為看到全台灣今日最後一道夕陽的 人們 ( 吧 ?)；在南 26 的交叉路口等他的同時， 一邊心急，擔心秋天的日落逐漸早，過了 約定時間、左顧右盼才見他不疾不徐地來 say hi； 夕陽落入海面之前我們從容地騎車繞過鹽 田和廢棄的臺鹽宿舍，一路上被蚊蟲衝撞 臉頰和安全帽，不斷聽到 ( 感覺到 ) 細微的 叮叮咚咚，在到達盡頭的紅綠燈塔之前， 我們被當成不速之客的狗群歡迎，吠了幾 聲跟著我們的車奔跑，經過另一間鎮海將 軍小廟之後停在海巡的檢查所門口，最後 的距離是佈滿馬鞍藤的小沙丘，「我們在 除了國聖燈塔以外最西邊的地方了，你看， 雲層那裡就是今天最後最晚的一道夕陽。」

Sound Geography V

Thanks to the military guy from the district

beacons in the end, we were greeted by dogs that

office who is familiar with the neighborhood,

considered us uninvited guests and barked and

we were lucky to be the ones to witness the final

ran with our motorbikes. We passed thorough

sunset of the day in Taiwan (perhaps). Waiting

another small temple of General Zhenhai and

anxiously at the intersection with District

stopped at a checkpoint of the Coast Guard. The

Highway No.26 of Tainan, we were worried

last mile was a small dune covered by Seahorse

about the time of sunset as it would arrive earlier

Vine Morning Glory. “We are standing on the

in autumn. Falling behind the scheduled time of

westernmost place beside Guosheng Lighthouse.

meeting, he finally showed up and said hi in a

Look. Over the clouds… That’s the last and the

laidback manner.

final sunset today.”

Hence, we slowly rode and passed through salt fields and the abandoned dormitory of Taiyen before sunset. We could hear (or sense) the faint sounds of ding dong since loads of mosquitoes and bugs rammed into our face and helmets all the way. Before we reached the red and green

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Sound Geography V

Senior Police Officer and waterway to the Sea

出海口的一線三星

54

鹿耳門 Luermen

西南沿海因為潟湖的特殊地理環境，「內 海」、「河口」有非常多的牡蠣養殖，沿岸 也有許多魚塭與繁殖場，因此，伴隨著海浪 漂流上岸、數量龐大的廢棄保麗龍塊、保麗 龍箱對環境造成很大影響，而政府也試圖以 回收獎勵的方式來減少廢棄保麗龍的污染， 但成效非常有限； 早上因為前往鹿耳門一帶勘查聖母廟、鄭成 功登陸社區等地點，來到台南的土城，在紅 茶攤躲完一陣突然襲來的午後大雨之後，順 著路直直騎就到了一處閒適的小港口，旁邊 是城西社區的安檢哨所，傍晚時分海巡弟兄 在門口納涼；一旁涼亭執勤的一線三星，看 我好奇地東張西望就上前來搭話，期間聊到 北門這裡的牡蠣養殖因為在出海口的河道 上，放中餌的話一個月可以採收，和七股潟 湖一年 24 季採收的安定環境不太一樣，常 常受颱風和水庫洩洪影響，颱風剛過，所以 工人們正揮汗如雨地檢查並綁緊鬆動的養蚵 竹架，竹子被鐵絲夾的咿歪咿歪，這兩天天 氣好就要再放回河面上去。

Sound Geography V

Owing to the unique environment of lagoon

The coast guards sat in front of the gate to

at the coast of Tainan, there are lots of oyster

rest at dusk. An officer with one bar and three

farms in the area of “the inner sea” or “the

stars that was on duty at a pavilion, seeing me

estuary”. Many fish farms and aquafarms can be

looking around, approached me to chat. In the

found along the coast as well. As such, massive

conversation, we talked about the oyster farming

abandoned Styrofoam blocks and boxes drift on

here at Beimen. Since the farms were located on

the sea and come onshore with sea waves, which

the watercourse at the estuary, one might harvest

bring tremendous impact to the environment.

after a month with medium-sized bait. Unlike

The government attempts to reduce the pollution

the stable environment at Cigu lagoon, where

of the abandoned Styrofoam by providing

one could have 24 harvests a year, it was easily

incentives for recycling, but the result was less

affected by typhoon and the flood discharge from

than satisfactory.

the reservoir. Workers were all sweats, checking and tighten the loosened oyster bamboo racks

I came to Tu Cheng of Tainan because I had

after the impact of typhoon. The bamboos were

gone to Luermen that morning to do some

screaming while being clamped by steel wires, so

scouting on locations such as Mazu Temple

as to put them back onto the river in a couple of

and Zheng Chenggong Denglu Community. I

days.

took shelter in a black tea stand because of the sudden shower in the afternoon. Then, I rode a motorcycle straight down the road to a small, comfortable harbor, on the side of which was the security checkpoint of Cheng Xi Community.

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Sound Geography V

Bright Sunny Days at Jingzaijiao

井仔腳的艷陽

60

北門 Beimen ( 井仔腳 Jingzaijiao )

離開台南的前兩天，起了大早前往東菜市採買 地瓜葉、蘋果等豬母娘娘喜愛的貢品，機車加 滿油就出發前往北門，答謝鎮海將軍。幾週前 的展覽中，正好與家鄉在北門的朋友討論到探 訪鎮海將軍這則傳奇、以及透過故事線索和現 代科技 ( 智慧型手機與地圖 ) 的指引，尋找這 座小廟的過程種種；對談中友人提及了北門豔 陽下那「彷彿暫停的時空」，雖然十一月底時 值秋季，但在空曠沿海的晴朗好天氣中，幾次 探訪都沐浴在熱辣的太陽底下，騎著車看見路 面熱氣蒸騰、溼熱的空氣還帶來幾分乾草和著 海風的鹹香，幾乎要融化在破碎的鹽田路上， 電影裡常見、只要帶到日光和沙漠的鏡頭，腦 海響起那一聲尖銳的「鏗」，一點都不誇張。

Sound Geography V

Two days prior to the departure from Tainan,

November, my several visits in sunny day at the

I got up early to go to the East Market to buy

open coast were like bathing under the scourging

Sweetpotato leaves, apples, and offerings that

sun. Riding the motorcycle, I saw the heat steam

Madam Pig loves. I left for Beimen as soon as

on the road and smelt the humid hot air mixed

my motorbike was refueled in order to extend

with salty aroma of hays and sea breeze, as if I

my appreciation to General Zhenhai. At the

were to melt on the fractured road of salt fields.

exhibition weeks ago, I happened to talk with a

The shots of sunshine and desert commonly seen

friend whose hometown was Beimen about the

in the movie and the sharp sound of “clang” in

visit to the legend of General Zhenhai and the

my head were definitely no exaggeration.

quest for the small temple following the clues of stories and the guidance of modern technology (smartphone and maps). In the conversation, the friend spoked off “the seemingly suspended space-time”. Though it was autumn at the end of

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Grass Shrimp and Grouper 2

草蝦與石斑之二

66

茄萣 Qieding ( 崎漏 Qilou )

世界上沒有什麼是不會改變的，「所有的 1

一切都會成為未來的廢墟」；九月底依然 褥熱的海風迎面吹來，竟有一股懷念又熟 悉的感覺，距離上一次來訪，半年多之後 再回到臺南沿海，帶著探訪老朋友的心情、 一樣的下午、騎著車在這段海岸悠悠晃晃； 過了二仁溪橋往南一點看見了灰黑的海岸 長堤和崎漏的公車站牌，確定自己現在在 哪裡的同時，映入眼簾的是綿延數公里看 不見盡頭的綠色鐵皮，從鐵皮偶爾不連貫 的縫隙中望去只有夷為平地的土堆，上面 停著怪手還有一些破碎的磚瓦、水泥塊和 腐朽的鋼筋，養殖場呢？陳府元帥廟呢？ 海堤上兩層樓高的瞭望台和鴿舍呢？頭上 充滿問號的時候滑了手機記事本，出現里 長去年提到的：都更，路旁的帆布諷刺的 展示充滿僵化美感、即將轉型成「海堤步 道」的模擬圖；以前陳府元帥對面的檳榔 攤嬤孫三代七嘴八舌說著，「幾年前養殖 場戶知道都更計畫、陸續廢棄，順著路下 去尾巴的幾間壽命也只到今年底，早晚的 事」；初秋午後艷陽依舊熱辣，怪手轟隆， 想念那有些鏽蝕崩壞的觀景台，好美。

1 引用自 2006 年藝術家姚瑞中於台北市立美術館個展展名。

Sound Geography V

Nothing in the world remains unchanged;

Hiking Trail” in a sense of rigid aesthetic. The

“Everything will Fall into Ruins (in the days to

grandma and grandson of a betel nut stand

come).”

The sea breeze in September touched

right in front of the place where Marshal Chen

us on the face, still hot and humid. It felt

Temple used to stand said vigorously that the

nostalgic and familiar. It had been over a half

owners of these aquafarms had learned about the

year before we visited the coast of Tainan once

urban renewal plan years ago and abandoned the

again. I came here in the same afternoon with

farms one after another, and that the remaining

a mood like visiting an old friend, and roamed

farms down the road would stand until the end

free on a motorbike along the coast. Soon after

of this year only, which was just a matter of

passing through Erren River Bridge southbound,

time. The sun in the afternoon during the early

I saw a long charcoal grey embankment and a

autumn was still burning hot, and the excavators

bus stop sign of Chilou. Realizing where I was,

rumbled. I missed the a-bit-rusty lookout. It was

all I saw was an endless wall of green metal sheets

beautiful.

1

going for kilometers. I could peek through the gaps in between the occasionally discontinuous metal sheets and saw a pile of dirt, on which there were an excavator and some broken bricks, concretes and decayed reinforcement bars. Where did the aquafarm go? What about Marshal Chen Temple? Where were the two-story high lookout on the embankment and the dovecot?

Surrounded by question marks, I swiped and checked the notes on the cellphone. There it was, mentioned by the borough chief: urban renewal.

The roadside canvas sarcastically displayed a mimic diagram of the upcoming “Embankment

1 From artist Yao Jui-Chung's solo exhibition in Taipei Fine Arts Museum, 2006.

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Sound Geography IV

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「十一月，興安」展覽現場 November, Hsin-An exhibition view

Sound Geography V

草蝦與石斑 Grass Shrimp and Grouper

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「十一月，興安」展覽現場 November, Hsin-An exhibition view

Sound Geography V

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「十一月，興安」展覽現場 November, Hsin-An exhibition view

Sound Geography V

聲形柱 - 台南臨海 Column_Coastal zone in Tainan

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「十一月，興安」展覽現場 November, Hsin-An exhibition view

Sound Geography V

鎮海將軍 General Zhenhai

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聲音地誌 V 臺南臨海 Sound Geography V Coastal area of Tainan 出版與贊助單位 Publisher & Sponsor : 財團法人國家文化藝術基金會

特別感謝 Special thanks :

齁空間 HOWL Space

林建志 Kenji HAYASHI

黃敏奕 Minyi HUANG

邵易謹 Dada SHAO

作者 / 編輯 / 設計 / 影像 / 文字 / 繪畫 : 劉致宏 翻譯：陳柏維 出版日期 2017 年 12 月 初版 版權所有，翻印必究 Author / Editor / Graphic Design / Image / Literature / Drawing : Chihhung LIU Translator : Jasper CHEN C

December 2017 Chihhung LIU . All rights reserved.

ISBN : 978-986-90225-1-4 ( 平裝 )

陳湘汶 Hsiangwen CHEN