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聲 音 地 誌 VII

Sound Geography VII 【 北投 Beitou 】

劉 致 宏 Chihhung LIU 2017-2018

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《聲音地誌 Sound Geography》出版刊物為逐漸累積成型的「聲音 紋理資料庫」，此創作計畫目前橫跨了幾個城市 : 日本的山口、臺 灣的高雄與恆春，2015-18 年間陸續完成新增的城市樣本為臺灣臺 南、北投，日本東京、菲律賓達沃、馬來西亞亞庇、澳洲雪梨等地， 未來也將持續進行下去。 聲音會是什麼樣子？當以「身體」開發成為感受眾多聲響的聽覺器 官時，透過口述、訪查、影像凝結與抽象 / 具象素描線條的聯覺轉 化表現等，試圖將「聽覺視覺化」，並撰以在地人、物、故事等相 關資料與聲響素材蒐集，為每個在地環境豐富的文化底藴，以記錄 / 檔案創作的方式研究關於「聽覺與視覺」之間的經驗連結，並希 望留下不同城市、地域之間的對照樣本。

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Sound Geography VII

The publication of Sound Geography series is meant to establish a “voicedrawing database” through gradual accumulations. This creative project currently covers several cities: Yamaguchi (Japan), Kaohsiung、Hengchun and Beitou (Taiwan). The sample cities in progress--Tainan (Taiwan), Tokyo (Japan), Davao (Philippines), Kota Kinabalu (Malaysia) and Sydney (Australia)—since 2015 are due to be finished by 2018. The project is expected to proceed continuously in the future.

What would voices look like? When the “body” is developed into an auditory organ perceiving numerous voices and sounds, the “visualization of hearing” is made possible through the synesthesia, transformation, and representation of verbal accounts, interviews, image freezing and abstract/concrete sketch lines. By collecting related data and sound materials recounting stories of local people, things and happenings, Sound Geography records/databases the plenitude of culture in each local area, and studies the empirical connections between “hearing and sight.” At the same time, it aspires to leave illustrative samples gathered from different cities and areas.

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山茶花開的時候 十月的傍晚正好騎車從陽明山下來，準備順路去北投市場晚 餐的路上，在光明路上停紅燈時手機訊息鈴響，好久不見的 Zoe 回到鳳甲美術館工作了，邀約碰面討論來年新春關於「聲 音地誌 - 北投篇」的出版與展覽合作，就是這麼巧合地，在 這個創作計劃未來還將持續進行的清單上劃掉一個一直以來 心心念念、回望與迴盪，還正在累積書寫更多新的人生故事 的地方：北投。 大屯山腳下的溫泉鄉：北投 ( 發音為 Pataauw)，在平埔族語 是「女巫」的意思，這裡豐富的歷史和文化足以構成一篇美 麗豐富的地圖，從天然地理條件造就了青磺泉、白磺泉與鐵 磺泉，以及「北投石」的發現，由地名演進看見平埔族聚落、 漢人、日人與國府、美軍駐留之間的時代變遷演進、民間信 仰的動員串連 ( 以及地方勢力的較勁 )，位於關渡宮五角頭之 一「北投角」的慈后宮正月媽祖遶境，俗稱「北投大拜拜」， 還有溫泉產業相關而生的那卡西走唱和紅燈文化、機車載送 服務等，都為這裡帶來許多特殊的連結與發展。 從北投去到陽明山幾乎是我大多時候的選擇，手記裡頭有一 段記陽明山遊蹤：「白日上山，賞艷陽、雲霧和偶陣雨，蟲 鳴聲不絕於耳；夜裡上山，聞硫磺、青草和玉蘭香，曬一輪 皎潔明月光。」無數晝夜，已經習慣順著路從北投上山，經

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過蒸騰地熱的硫磺谷往上，或是沿台二線的陽金公路下山， 曾幾何時已經深化為視 / 聽覺感受的一種慣性；保持了多年 到現在，總是能在那同樣的山群、交織的山路、上坡換檔、 下坡過彎之中，找到遼闊的美景、呼嘯的風聲和再熟悉不過 的氣味，以及當下千萬個煩憂的答案。 聲音地誌出版創作計畫默默的來到第七集，沒想到幸運七的 集數有機會回到了生活超過十年的北投，重新認識；算一算 從求學時期開始，來到北投、關渡甚至淡水一帶，生活、念 書、工作還有服兵役加總都超過十年了，陸續在台北市、新 北市的交界區域 ( 還曾經是台北市 / 台北縣的時候 ) 搬了幾 次家，白駒過隙，前些日子與朋友聊起大學的往事 ( 還有幹 過的蠢事 ) 才驚覺，沒想到與這個地方的淵源竟然就占了目 前人生不長也不短的三分之一；「山茶花的習性適合溫暖、 濕潤的環境，花期從十月到隔年五月都有機會見到，尤其是 一至三月的時候」；這樣的描述再巧合不過地像這次聲音地 誌與鳳甲美術館的合作計畫時程，十月下過雨的時候熱氣蒸 騰、含苞醞釀，等待二月早春、盛開綻放。

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When Camellias Blossom

At some dusk in October, I was riding my motorcycle down from Yangmingshan en route to Beitou Market for dinner. As I stopped on GuangMing Road, waiting for the green light, I heard a message came in to my cellphone. It was Zoe, whom I had not seen for a long time. She returned to Hong-Gah Museum to work, and invited me to talk in person about the publishing and exhibition of “Sound Geography – Beitou” in the coming spring. What a coincidence. It was the place that had been on my list as well as on my mind, a place that still collects new stories of life, and now can be crossed out from my list for this ongoing art project: Beitou.

Home to the hot spring under Datun Mountain: Beitou is also known as Pataauw, which means “witch” in Pingpu Tribe’s language. The profound history and culture here rich enough to constitute a beautiful map with diversity. Thanks to its natural, geological conditions, green sulfur springs, white sulfur springs, and iron sulfur springs are formed along with “Hokutolite”.

From the evolution of the place names, we may see the times change from the reign of Pingpu Tribe to Han people, Japanese, the Nationalist Government, as well as the garrison of US Army.

Also, there are mobilizations of the local faith groups (mixed

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with the competition of local communities), such as the Matsu Procession in the first month of the Chinese lunar calendar of Cihou Temple, one of the Five Clans of Guantu Temple, also known as “Grand Beitou Pilgrimage”. In addition, the Nakasi singing, the red-light culture, and the motorbike taxi service derived from the hot spring industry had brought distinctive connections and development to this place.

The route from Beitou to Yangmingshan is my prime choice most of the time. An excerpt from my journal on the trip to Yangmingshan reads: “Go into the mountain in daytime, one may appreciate the big sunshine, the cloud, the fog, and the occasional shower, surrounded by the chirpings of insects; go into the mountain at nighttime, one may enjoy the smell of sulfur and the fragrances of grass and the White Champak, bathed in the bright moonlight.” In countless days and nights, I’ve been used to entering the mountain along the road from Beitou, going up via Liuhuang (Sulfur) Valley shrouded in geothermal heat steams, or exiting the mountain via Yangjin Highway of the Provincial Highway No. 2. Before long, it has taken root and grown into a habit of visual/audial perceptions, lasted for years to date. Amidst the same mountains, the

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innumerable troubles at the moment.

The series of Sound Geography has come to its 7th volume before I even noticed. To my surprise, the lucky 7th granted me the privilege to return to Beitou, to rediscover the place where I spent over 10 years of my life. Starting from the period of being a student, I've been living in the area among Beitou, Guangdu, and even Tamsui. It had been 10 years plus after living, studying, working, and serving in the military that I relocated several times in between Taipei and New Taipei City (during some of which the latter was still known as Taipei County).

How time flies. My friends and I talked about the history back in college the other day (along with the stupid deeds we've done). At that instant, I started to realize how my history with this place accounts for not-so-long-but-not-so-short one third of my life. "Camellia is fond of warm, humid environment. The fluorescence spans from October to the May next year, especially in the period of January to March." Such description coincides perfectly with the time frame working with Hong-Gah Museum.

The flowers are budding in the environment that is hot and humid with vapors after the rain in October, waiting to blossom in early spring days of February.

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Soymilk & Youtiao 1

豆漿油條之一

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中央北路 Zhongyang N. Rd.

Lovely Table for Sharing

併桌雅座

十月的台北還像夏天一樣悶熱，決定前往 清晨五點半的戶外併桌雅座；老闆背對著 我們一刻不得閒，炸不完的油條、煎一鍋 三十顆水煎包，大多時候都專注地像照顧 孩子般在他的煎檯世界裡，偶爾趁空檔轉 身和客人搭話閒聊。 接著從檯子下取出一包發好的麵糰並打開， 鋪一層粉，溫柔地桿成手指厚的扁平長方， 接著「哆哆哆」頻率固定的下刀、切成各 約一公分寬，之後兩兩交疊以金屬棒用力 一壓、粘合再左右拉長，排隊下鍋；看他 下鍋前熟練地捏著麵 糰 頭尾、一個巧勁彈 拉到適合油鍋的長度後放下，時不時翻一 翻，再來就等它們嘰嘰 喳喳 地洗完澡、慢 慢蛻變成型；「阿我沒有固定時間啦，都 是看顏色」、「想學 噢，沒這麼簡單啦！ 我做這很多年了」等待油條起鍋的中間老 闆看我好奇隨性聊上兩句，最後金黃色再 深一點的時候，夾起瀝乾，「咖 呲 」折兩 半夾進剛考好的燒餅，無法言喻的絕配。

Sound Geography VII

Taipei in October was still as hot as summer.

bounce it artfully to a length just right, and lay

I decided to sit at the lovely table for sharing

it down to the fryer. Afterwards, he flipped them

outside the shop at five thirty early in the

from to time, and waited for them to grow into

morning. The owner, with his back facing us, was

shape after the boisterous bath. “Hmm… I never

overwhelmed with orders. Deep-frying countless

time it. I judge it by color.” “Wanna learn? It’s

Youtiao (Chinese cruller) and preparing a pot of

not that easy! I’ve been doing this for years,” the

Steam-fried Buns, the owner was consumed with

owner chatted with me while waiting for Youtiao

his world of stove as if he were taking care of

to finish the bath in the fryer when he saw my

babies, only chatting with customers occasionally

curious eyes. As Youtiao turned just a bit darker

in between.

than golden color, they were clamped up and drained off the oil. Following a crunch sound, a

He took out a bag of leavened dough, unpacked

Youtiao was snapped in halves and stuffed into a

it, spread a thin layer of flour, and gently rolled

sesame flat bread fresh from the oven. A perfect

the dough into a flat rectangle as thick as a

match beyond words.

finger. Next, following the sounds “tock, tock, tock” in a fixed pattern, the dough was cut into strips of one centimeter wide. Then, they were piled up in pairs, squeezed with a metal rod, and stuck together and stretched horizontally before lining up to the fryer. I watched him skillfully hold the two ends of the dough, stretch and

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Sound SoundGeography GeographyVII VI

Soymilk & Youtiao 2

豆漿油條之二

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中央北路 Zhongyang N. Rd.

The Taiwanese Song at Dawn

清晨的台語歌

冷冽冬日清晨的四點十二分，豆漿店已燈 火通明，老遠外就瀰漫一股黃豆的鮮香； 穿著灰色帽 T 和牛仔褲、泥濘痕跡雨鞋的 男子將銀色 ALTIS 直接停在門口的人行道 旁，睡眼惺忪、下車搓著手提著一袋芭樂 遞給老闆娘，與老闆邊寒暄邊點了六個水 煎包和兩杯豆漿，老闆說：「韭菜的再兩 分鐘」；車裡的低音喇叭自顧自地大聲唱 著許富凱的台語歌；我像個觀眾一般、在 咫尺之外小口啜飲著碗裡的暖陽，聽著時 間在他們熟絡的家常打屁中流過，再舀一 瓢芡水淋在鍋裡的煎包和鍋貼上，這時又 來了幾個人排隊，大家都在等待老闆掀開 木製鍋蓋、伴隨蒸騰熱氣「唰 ~」的那一刻！ 接著台語歌之後是杰倫的國民歌曲串燒， 開門上車的時候低音有點破的流行音樂混 著越過天頂的飛機引擎，還沒破曉，世界 已經開始充滿幹勁地運轉起來了。

Sound Geography VII

By 4:12 early in a freezing cold winter morning,

people joined the queue, waiting for the owner

the soymilk breakfast shop was already lit up

to open the wooden lid and the moment of

and opened in business. I could smell the fresh

steams coming out with the sound “schwa~”!

fragrance of soybean from afar. A man wearing

It was Jay Chou’s song collection after the

a grey hoodie, a jean, and a pair of muddy rain

Taiwanese song. As the man opened the door

boots parked his silver ALTIS at the sidewalk

and got into the car, the pop music from the

right in front of the shop. He got off the car,

cracking boomer was mixed with the engine

robbed his hands with eyes half-closed, and

sound of a plane flying over. The world had

handed a bag of guava to the owner’s wife. Then,

come alive and kicking even before the break of

he ordered six steam-fried buns and two soymilk

dawn.

while chatting with the owner. The owner said the ones stuffed with leek will be ready in two more minutes. The woofer in the car loudly sang the Taiwanese song by Fu-Kai Hsu as I was sipping the warm sun in the bowl close by, listening to time flowing by while they chitchatted. Another ladle of potato starch mixture was poured onto the buns in the pot as several

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Sound Geography VII

A Casual Conversation with a Local Motorcycle Courier

機車阿伯的在地漫談

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清江里 Qingjiang Borough

還在念書的時候，有一次把 YAMAHA 的「愛將」牽去 金石大修 ( 近復興崗站、福利站對面的親民機車行，現已 停業搬遷 )，修著修著老闆粟大哥聊起了北投的機車載送 文化，開玩笑的說「年輕人怎麼喜歡這種阿北騎的車， 知道市場在哪裡嗎？市場附近、停車場對面那個巷口大 樹下看看，他們都在那邊泡茶」，之後便滿懷興奮的心 情照著老闆的描述前往，天真的想像以車會友這種事可 不可能發生；週四下午我們跟阿北約在美術館碰面，想 聽他說說騎車載客的在地故事；始終酷酷的阿北聲音溫 柔、眼神流露一股自信，尤其是聊到我也是打檔車同好 的時候！陳北北是老北投人，住在北投市場旁近 70 年的 時光，對這裡街頭巷尾地形起伏寥若指掌，時代景況與 文化變遷更是活生生的見證，從早期火車站前的排班三 輪車、茶室小姐、紅茶、到古龍寫小說的地方，還曾送 蛋糕進營區、送宵夜去麻將間等等，如數家珍，聽其敘 述各色人客和各樣的委託都載送過，他也不吝的與我們 分享許多奇聞軼事與經歷，從前年輕入行的時候也碰過 小姐三貼的心跳時刻、孤單寂寞的老人伴遊散心、到後 來以怕鬼為由幾乎不跑夜班的半退休生活狀態等；民國 68 年以後因為風俗文化政策的影響，以往跟著溫泉產業 共存二十四小時的機車載送也逐漸轉型，現多以接送上 班族與學生，從家門口到車站，或是送貨、代居民購物 與餐點外送為主，偶爾參與競選的插旗遊街、無關政治 的賺點外快，就像近年新興的網路送餐的在地版本，更 多元、更豐富了人與人之間的互動情感！ 時間很快的一個多小時過去，阿北喝完最後兩口咖啡丟 下「好了，我要去送水果了」就起身要走，進電梯之前 想到什麼似地轉頭說：「知道大拜拜的慈后宮和牌坊嗎， 我帶你去看看」，就這樣跟著野狼騎士的帥氣背影，在 陽光正好的午后重新開採了前所未見的北投文化風景。

Sound Geography VII

There was one time when I was still a student

commissions. Thus, he generously shared with us

that I took my YAMAHA SR150 to Jinshih

various stories and gossips from the moment as

(a friendly motorcycle repair shop nearby the

if his heart had leaped out from the chest when

MRT Fuxinggang Station across the Service

a lady leant against his back on the bike when

Station of MND, now closed as the owner

he entered the business as a young lad, escorting

relocated elsewhere) for overhaul. The owner

lonely old man for an excursion, to this semi-

Mr. Su started to talk about the motorbike taxi

retirement that avoids night shift out of the

culture local in Beitou while repairing, teasing

fear of spirits. Owing to the change of cultural

me that “How could a young man ride a bike

policy since 1979, the motorbike taxi service

of an old man? Do you know where the market

once relied on the hot spring industry 24/7 was

is? You can check it out under the big tree at the

forced to change as well. Today, it is primarily

alley across the parking lot close to the market.

giving officer workers and students a ride from

They often brew tea over there.” I excitedly

door steps to the train station, courier service for

went as directed that after, naively imagining

goods and foods, or shopping errands for local

something like meeting riders like me might just

residents. Occasionally, he would join campaign

happen. In some Thursday afternoon, we went

processions disregard the political stance for extra

to the museum for a meeting with a grandpa,

allowance. It’s just like the local version of online

in hopes of listening to the authentic stories

food ordering and delivery service with more to

about motorbike taxi locally in the past. The

offer and richer human interaction!

grandpa appeared kind of cool yet with a tender voice, demonstrating confidence in between his

Some one-hour time passed swiftly. “All right.

eyes, especially when learning about the fact

Time to deliver fruits,” the grandpa finished the

that I am a groupie of motorcycle with manual

last two sips of coffee and concluded. As soon as

transmission as well! Grandpa Chen is a senior

he was about to enter the elevator and leave, he

Beitouese, living in the vicinity of Beitou Market

turned back like something came up and said,

for nearly 70 years. He knows this neighborhood

“Do you know Cihou Temple that organizes

like it’s his backyard, a live witness to the change

Matsu Procession and the Memorial Archway?

of times and shift of cultures happened here.

Let me show you.” That was how I ended up

From the tricycles lining up for customers

following the handsome silhouette of the wolf

in front of the train station in the early days,

(motorcycle) rider, and once again set forth on

the Teahouse Ladies, the black tea, the place

a journey to the cultural landscape of Beitou

where Gu Long wrote his novels, to delivering

strange to my eyes, as I bathed in the perfect

cakes into the barrack and night snacks into

afternoon sunshine.

Mahjong Room, and so on and so forth, he knew anything and everything. According to his account, he had delivered all sorts of clients and

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Paths up into the Mountains 1

上山的路之一

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溫泉路 Wenquan Rd.

冬末飄著細雨、霧氣與濕度破表的下午發 生了充滿詩意的巧遇；順著溫泉路上山繞 繞，在山腳下看見一些爬完山邊走邊說笑 的老人，外地遊客的車開到這都紛紛調頭，

Zenkoji Temple & Hokutolite

善光寺與北投石

好奇心起遂將車子一丟，鑰匙拔了就順著 他們下山的路徑上山，在靠近山頂的地方 發現了現址始於民國 21 年 (1932 年 )、 跟日本長野縣、築地本願寺有淵源的秘境 善光寺；山上清新的空氣和綠繡眼、蟲聲 環繞，還沒踏上入口石階就可以看到後方 莊嚴聳立的佛寶塔，據說裡頭供奉著從日 本請回來的釋迦牟尼佛舍利，是早期日籍 居民佛教的信仰中心，在佛塔前視野廣闊 可以遠眺觀音山和整個新北投地區，庭院 裡還有一塊深色的石碑，浸泡在雨霧裡表 面閃閃發亮，起初不以為意，碰到了騎腳 踏車上來運動的大哥，聊到說這塊石碑是 1940 年紀念發現北投石的日本礦物學家， 因為「北投石 (Hokutolite) 」是具有放射 線「鐳」的特殊溫泉礦物；「就是居禮夫 人她發現那個鐳，一樣的東西」大哥說他 每天都會經過這裡運動，喜歡賞櫻花、山 茶、桂花的話這裡真的是秘境，才知道原 來山頂上的善光寺藏著這麼重要的歷史寶 藏。

Sound Geography VII

A poetic encounter occurred in some drizzling

amidst the drizzling fogs. I didn’t take it to

afternoon in the end of winter with fogs and

heart until I met a guy riding a bicycle to work

humidity off the chart. I was fooling around

out up here. He mentioned in the conversation

following WenQuan Rd. upward, and I saw

that the stone tablet was erected in 1940 in

a group of old people walking, chatting, and

memory of the Japanese mineralogist who had

laughing after hiking. Cars of tourists turned

discovered Hokutolite because Hokutolite is a

around here one after another. Out of curiosity, I

unique mineral formed in the hot spring that

took the key out and left my bike, following their

carries the element “radium”. “The same radium

path upward, opposite to their direction. I found

that Madame Curie discovered,” said the guy,

a mysterious place close to the mountain top

who came here to exercise every day. It is truly

– Zenkoji Temple – which shares a connection

a paradise for anyone fond of cherry blossom,

with Tsukiji Hongan-ji Temple and Nagano

Camellia, and Osmanthus. Not until now did

Prefecture since 1932. The air is refreshing up

I learn about this historical treasure hidden in

in the mountain surrounded by the chirps of

Zenkoji Temple up in the mountain.

Japanese White-eye and insects. I could see a

​

Buddhist pagoda solemnly erected at the rear even before I stepped on the stone stair at the entrance. Rumor has it that it is Śarīra (Buddhist relics) from Japan inside the pagoda. It was the religious center for the Japanese Buddhists in the early days. The view in front of the Buddhist pagoda was wide and clear. I could see Guanyin Mountain afar and overlook the entire area of Xinbeitou. There was a stone tablet in dark tone in the yard, the surface of which was glistening

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Paths up into the Mountains 2

上山的路之二

38

幽雅路 Youya Rd.

傍晚從大業路通新北投上山，一路上擠滿了附 近學校學生與接送家長、交通車的下課人潮車 潮，每回經過逸仙國小前的叉路都會隨機選擇

A Graceful Quest into Mystery

幽雅探秘

左邊還是右邊，能見的風景也大不相同；今天 不想走曲折面山的泉源路，直覺地想說「一路 往右」探探，經過了住宅區和 818 國軍醫院 之後，右邊一整區的眷村和前衛戍醫院北投分 院已經開始有許多社區計畫與文物館舍保存的 概念在經營運作；醫院後方的圍牆外有一處荒 地制高點、一條小巷之隔的高大柏樹下，天氣 好的時候適合帶上兩個貓罐頭讓牠們幾個飽餐 然後追逐打鬧，一邊遠眺冬季斜陽漸漸沒入台 北的天際線。 再往上走和泉源路交會之後持續往右上山，數 不清多少日夜來回穿梭在這熟悉的山路，經過 張學良舊居一個轉念順著右邊沒走過的小路下 去，蜿蜒的小路原來能一直延續連接到溫泉路 和銀光巷那一頭，停在指標前面端詳的時候聽 見不遠處隱約、微弱、頻率固定的聲響，「幽 雅路」，附近的門牌上這樣寫著，往前到路的 盡頭停好車，找到了正在作晚課誦念經文的聲 音來源：曹洞寺。

Sound Geography VII

I went upwards to Xinbeitou via DaYe Rd.

sun submerge into the horizon of Taipei.

at dusk, seeing crowds of students from the neighboring schools and the parents to pick

I continued upwards and came across the

them up as well as a swarm of cars in the traffic

intersection with QuanYuan Rd., and went

after school. Every time when I arrive at the

further upward to the right. I’d lost the count of

crossroad in front of Yixian Elementary School,

how many days and nights I’d been traversing on

I will choose either left or right randomly, for

this mountain road familiar to me. As I passed

the landscapes I will see also differs from each

by the Former Residence of Zhang Xueliang,

other. Today I didn’t want to take the winding

I went down a tiny lane to the right that I had

QuanYuan Rd. that faces the mountain, so I

not taken before instinctively. The winding road

chose “the right all the way” out of gut feelings

turned out leading all the way to WenQuan

instead. After passing through the residential

Rd. and YinGuang Lane on the other end. As I

area and the Military Hospital 818, I saw

stopped at the sign, pondering, I heard subtle,

many community projects and the concept of

feeble sounds in a fixed pattern not far from

preservation of historical heritage operational at

here. “YouYa Rd.” (road of elusive grace) read the

the whole veteran village and the former Beitou

doorplate nearby. I went to the end of the road

branch of the Japanese garrison hospital to my

and parked my motorcycle. Then, I found the

right. There was a high ground at the back of

source of the sound, which was the chanting of

the hospital outside the wall, across an alley and

monks in their evensong: CaoDong Temple.

covered by a tall cypress tree. I would bring along two cans of cat food when the sky was clear, so that the cats there could feast themselves and frolic that after, while I overlooked the winter

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Paths up into the Mountains 3

上山的路之三

44

鐘鼓峒山 Mt. Zhonggutong

在曹洞寺門口、向廢墟張望的時候，被一旁穿著雨鞋、 手持鐮刀「 哐、 哐、 哐 」正在整理雜草的師父叫住， 以為我也是慕名來廢墟探險的人，便微笑揮著手說「那 裡有沒什麼，不是鬼屋啦，你也是看網路謠言來的 嗎？」我急忙解釋，一個不經意來到這裡，被那悠悠 的聲音吸引，師父說：「現在是我們每天的晚課時間， 阿我還在工作，就沒有參加了」「如果想看的話，你 從旁邊小巷上去，穿過階梯往上走到馬路，左手邊有 一座不動明王古蹟」，聽了之後一陣發現新大陸的興 奮、燃起了好奇心。

Fudo Myo-o

不動明王

答謝之後拔了車鑰匙，順著剛剛說的方向往上走，蜿 蜒交錯的階梯穿梭在沿著山勢而建的平房，偶有身在 九份的感覺，階梯前頭有一隻藍色項圈的黑狗不停回 望，經過桂花飄香的庭院、跟著牠來到馬路上悠悠晃 晃，就像這裡的地頭蛇，如果沒聽錯的話他剛哼了一 下、那眼神似乎說著「等我尿完這泡，帶你去有趣的 地方」，果不其然在左手方不遠處聽見了瀑布流瀉， 走近一看幾隻臥犬一哄而散，方才師父所說的不動明 王石窟就在眼前，1925 年日人鑿山石建立的不動明王 (Fudo Myo-o) 神態莊嚴，洞窟已被香煙燻得焦黑，更 是台灣少有的佛教石窟，小廟還保有日本神社典型的 「手水舍 (Chozuya)」，潺潺流水和一旁傾瀉的瀑布帶 來一股沁涼；醉心眼前發現的文化勝景之餘，聽見爪 子摩擦路面的聲音，帶路的黑狗已不見蹤影，剛才 躺 臥的狗群呼朋引伴在不遠處徘徊，一隻白狗步步逼近、 吠叫威嚇，正對我這個陌生人警戒，就在一個轉身狗 群追了上來，拔腿就跑之後繞了老遠才回到幽雅路， 回神時已天黑向晚，山居庭院金黃色圓形的造景燈， 一一點亮。

Sound Geography VII

While I was peeping into the ruin at the gate of

of its eyes were like telling me “I will take you

CaoDong Temple, a monk wearing rain boots

somewhere interesting after I finish pissing.” Not

called me with a sickle at hand, making sounds

surprisingly, I heard a waterfall teeming down

of “Clang, Clang, Clang” as he weeded. He

to my left not far away. Several dogs at rest fled

thought I was yet another adventurer to the ruin,

away as I approached for a better look. The cave

smiling and waving as he said “There’s nothing

of Fudo Myo-o the monk mentioned earlier was

there. It’s not a haunted house. Are you here

right in front of us. Inside the cave carved out

following the hearsays online, too?” I explained

from the mountain by the Japanese in 1925,

myself in a haste that I came here by accident,

Fudo Myo-o stood resolute. The cave had already

lured by the chanting sound. “It is now our

been blackened by incense’s smoke over ages,

daily evensong session, but I’m still at work, so

let alone the fact that it was a Buddhist cave

I am excused,” the monk said, “if you want to

rarely seen in Taiwan. The small shrine preserved

take a look, go up from the alley next to it, go

the classical “Chozuya” of Japanese Shinto

through the stairs up to a road; you will see a

Shrine. The sounds of gurgling water and the

relic of Fudo Myo-o (Acala in Japanese) on your

pouring waterfall ushered in a refreshing sense of

left hand side.” I was thrilled and curious after

coolness. As I was consumed with the fascinating

hearing this as if I had found a new world.

cultural site before my eyes, I heard the sounds of claws scrubbing the ground. The black dog

I pulled out the key after thanking him, and went

that led me to this was already gone, while the

up accordingly. The winding stairs in between

gang of dogs that had rested here lingering close

the bungalows built on the surface of mountain

by in pack. One white dog approached step by

reminded me of the experience of touring in

step, barking and howling to this stranger of me.

Jiufen at times. There was a black dog wearing

As I turned around, the pack of dogs was on

a blue collar up head on the stairs, looking

my tail. I ran like hell and circled back to YouYa

back from time to time. I followed it through

Rd. The sky was already darken after I came to

a courtyard with the fragrance of Osmanthus

my senses. The golden round-shaped landscape

in the air and onto a road as it strolled at ease

lighting in the mountain courtyard lit up, one

like it were the king in this neighborhood. If

after another.

my hearing did not fail me, I even heard him exhaled in displeasure just then. The expression

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Sound Geography VII

50

Sound Geography VII

Brilliant Black and Bronze

亮黑色與青銅色的

52

復興崗 FuHsingKang College

星期三的下午天氣不錯微涼，把車停在大門對 面，和衛哨打過招呼、會客室換了證件、看著眼 前再熟悉不過的風景往陽明樓緩緩步行；途經 勤務和左右相連的綠蔭之後，左手邊就是大操場 和中正堂，右手邊是種滿高大松樹的覺園和正氣 碑，以及正前方無法忽視的經國先生塑像；放眼 往去的世界似乎沒有改變，曾經在這裡跑過數不 清次數的三千公尺，用餐時間之前此起彼落部隊 行進間的響亮答數、伴隨降旗時段國歌響遍每個 戶外角落而原地立正木頭人們的暫時停止世界等 記憶，瞬間回來了，一下子被操場旁空地傳來基 本教練的訓練口令拉進漩渦，轉啊轉的。 中正堂旁、圖書館前面，每天都會經過這尊經國 先生銅像，由政戰學校早期校友兼教師 ( 上校退 伍 ) 所做，依然面不改色地微笑端坐在幾棵松樹 中間，關於這尊漆黑銅像的傳說很多，嚇唬人的 也好、開玩笑的也罷，據說和校外不遠處的路旁、 捷運經過復興崗到北投區間都會看到的另一尊是 雙胞胎，原本也在學校裡頭；晃一晃看到學長 J 前來迎接說嗨，還有一旁好久不見的士官長 L ， 仍不改他那爽朗誇張的打招呼和親民率真的垃圾 話哈哈。

Sound Geography VII

The weather in Wednesday afternoon was fair

I used to pass by the Statue of Chiang Ching-

and a bit cool. I parked the motorcycle in front

kuo beside JhongJheng Dais and in front of

of the gate across the street. Then, I greeted the

the library every day. Made by an alumni and

guard, acquired the pass from the security office,

a teacher (retired as a colonel) of the Fu Hsing

and paced myself toward Yangming Building,

Kang College, it still smiled and sat upright

appreciating the landscape familiar to my eyes.

amidst several pine trees, unchanged. There

After the duty office and a belt of green shade,

are quite some legends about this black statue

I could see the big track field and JhongJheng

whether they be intimidating or joking. It is

Dais on my left, Jyue Garden planted with tall

said that there is another statue not far from the

pine trees and Righteousness Tablet on my right,

school, standing by the road, so you will see the

and the Statue of Chiang Ching-kuo at front,

twin statue every time you travel through the

hardly ignored. The world here as it is seemed

section between Fuxinggang and Beitou if you

pretty much the same as it was. Memories like

take the MRT, which was once located in the

the countless 3000-meter run, the resounding

school as well. I bumped into the senior brother

cadence calls roared by troops before dining,

J as I was fooling around. He greeted me along

and the temporarily frozen world and petrified

with the master sergeant J, whom I had not seen

individuals in the duration of flag-lowering

for ages and who still greeted with his classical

ceremony as the national anthem sounded in

exaggerating style and blunt rubbish.

every corner of the school rushed back to me all

​

of sudden, as I were drawn into a spiral by the commend came from the basic training exercise over the space next to the track field, twirling and turning.

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Sound Geography VII

This Is Li Chuan 93

這裡是立川勾三

58

文化里 Wenhua Borough

「快點，要降旗了！」下餐廳時常聽到有人這 麼喊著；夕陽斜掛、國歌響起，身處於屋簷 以外空間的所有人被按了暫停鍵、面向中正堂 的方向，每天降旗的魔幻時刻終於來臨；「還 剩一半，就可以下哨了…」每次站到關門哨總 會浮現的內心旁白，退伍之後有時想起還是會 令人懷念那定時呼摳機回報、盯著哨亭旁的松 樹、專心放飛靈魂的兩小時；復興崗校地之廣 闊，原是日治時期台北州的競馬場，後來才改 建為政工幹校 ( 今國防大學政治作戰學校 ) 的 運動場，大門裡頭的世界除了學校系所之外還 有許多國防部直屬單位、勤務單位等，隨時都 有可能發現星星閃亮、泡泡滿天飛，自成一個 小世界；特別的是還有早年 ( 現已轉型 ) 的情 報單位「遠朋班」，以及軍校招收男生居多、 因為特殊科系而招收少數女性學員的宿舍範圍 「木蘭村」，就位於以前帶隊跑校園一圈的路 徑上，隨著時代變遷與制度轉向，現在當地成 為了語言中心，軍事性別上的隔閡也許早已不 如舊時代那樣明顯了。

Sound Geography VII

“Hurry up; the flag-lowering ceremony is about

College, NDU nowadays). The world within

to begin!”​We often heard something like that

the gate not only consists of various academic

when we were in the cafeteria. The sun was

departments and institutes, but encompasses

setting and the national anthem sounded, and

many subordinate units and service units of

all the people beyond the space under the roof

the Ministry of National Defense. You can spot

would appear as if someone had pressed their

lots of stars twinkling and bubbles flying in this

pause buttons, facing toward the direction

small universe of its own. In particular, there is

of JhongJheng Dais. Here came the magical

an “international officer training program” that

moment of flag-lowering ceremony every

used to be an intelligence unit, now transformed.

single day at last. “A half more before off duty,”

Also, due to its nature as a military school and

soliloquized inside as I was on the shift for the

most of students being male, there used to be a

gate-closing duty. At times even after discharged

dormitory devoted specifically to the few female

from the army, I would miss the regular check-

students enrolled in certain departments called

in on walky-talky, the blank staring at the

“Mulan Village”. It was beside the route of unit

pine tree beside the post as well as the 2-hour

run around the campus in the past. Nevertheless,

soulless concentration. The campus of Fu

owing to the change of time and of policy,

Hsing Kang College is this vast because it used

it is now a language center, while the gender

to be racecourse of Taihoku Prefecture during

segregation in the military is perhaps not as

the Japanese Colonial Period. It was later on

distinct as it used to be.

restructured as the track field for the School for Political Warfare Officers (the Political Warfare

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Sound Geography VII

2nd and 16th of the Month, and Fuzhu Shrine

初二 十六 福主堂

64

公館路 Gongguan Rd.

、 、

早晨的陽光正好暖和得不像冬天，七點醒來從 工作室出發，決定步行沿著公館路往上看看； 路上的婆媽提著幾袋水果說笑點頭，打過招呼 說到「金納哩初二，愛企拜拜啦」便跟隨他 們來到一片住宅區與山壁之間的「福主宮」。 福德正神 ( 土地公 ) 在常民信仰與生活裡頭有 著密不可分的關係，好比社區的管區、里長一 樣，而福主宮也就是俗稱的土地公廟，是此地 的信仰中心；宮裡的石碑記載著，清道光年 間來自漳州、泉州地區的漢人先民在這一帶 開墾，起初只有三塊石板 ( 代表福德正神、地 基主和顯靈公 )，而後募資改建落成並沿用近 四十年的「福主堂」，2000 年後才成為今日 看到的福主宮；而福主宮也在「北投角」的範 圍裡，每年都會協助慈后宮正月十一的北投大 拜拜，一路到三月下旬的媽祖生。婆媽們有的 洗滌水果盛盤、有的燃香，照著順序前後殿各 爐繞過一圈，我們悠哉地坐在長凳上聽她們聊 一些不著邊際的生活瑣事，臨走前被叫住說 「肖連誒，過年拗五銀鄧來看看巴逃牙媽揍， 揪腦咧誒，搵馬愛來氣到殺康岡！」( 年輕人， 過完年有空來看北投迎媽祖，非常熱鬧，我們 都會來去幫忙！ )

Sound Geography VII

The morning sunshine was so warm that it did

stone tablets in the first place (representing

not feel like a winter. I woke up at 7 o’clock,

Fudezhengshen, Guardian Deity of House

left my studio, and decided to go upward along

Foundation, and Lord Xianling). Later, a fund

GongGuan Rd. on foot. The older ladies seen

was raised for the construction of “Fuzhu Shrine”

on the road held several bags of fruits, chatting,

that lasted for nearly 40 years. It later became

nodding, and laughing. They greeted me and

“Fuzhu Temple” as it is after year 2000. Fuzhu

said “This is the 2nd day of the month on lunar

Temple is within the range of “Beitou Clang”,

calendar. Remember to pay tribute to gods!”

hence will assist Cihou Temple every year from

Therefore, I followed their steps to “Fuzhu

the Grand Beitou Pilgrimage on the 11th of the

Temple” located between a residential area and

first month of the lunar calendar all the way to

a rock face of the hill. Fudezhengshen (Deity

the birthday of Matsu in the end of the third

of Blessing and Virtue), aka. Earth Deity, is

month of the lunar calendar. Some older ladies

intimately connected with the spiritual lives of

rinsed and prepared fruits; others burned incense

the folks. He is like the community leader or

and worshiped in order around the censers at

the village leader, and Fuzhu Temple, commonly

the front hall and rear hall, while we leisurely

known as “the Temple of Earth Deity”, is

sat on a bench listening to their chit-chat. As we

the religious center of this neighborhood. A

were to leave, they called out in Taiwanese “Hey,

record from the stone tablet in the temple read,

young lads. Come back to see the procession of

the forefathers of Han people came to this

Matsu during the Chinese New Year if possible.

neighborhood from Zhangzhou and Quanzhou,

It’s quite popular and we’re all gonna help with

Mainland China during the reign of Daoguan

the procession!”

Emperor of the Qing Dynasty (sometime between 1782 to 1850). There were only three

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星辰歇業中

70

Stars in Dormant

溫泉路 Wenquan Rd.

之前經過前衛戍醫院、走過很多次的中山 路，穿過一處高點旁邊是特殊圓形的舊公 寓大樓，原來兩相連通到新北投一側上來 的溫泉路。 剛下過雨地上還很濕滑、樹林下方熱氣蒸 騰、空氣裡充滿水份，打開地圖一看才發 現地熱谷就在不遠處飄散溫暖的霧靄；下 坡的時候將機車熄火，順著綠蔭步行來到 青綠色綿延的鐵皮圍籬和不再點亮的白底 藍字招牌，四周安靜地出奇，鐵皮後方半 露出破敗的日式建築、庭園，雜草叢生的 荒蕪沒有違和感，大樹甚至直接穿過屋頂， 這裡竟然就是北投曾經赫赫有名的名湯之 一：「星乃湯」的所在地，又名「逸邨大 飯店」，是日治時期軍方的招待所，據說 當年國父孫中山曾慕名前來、到此一遊而 得名；星乃湯的泉質屬於顏色偏黃的白磺 泉，因為泉湯有白色的磺灰而被稱作「有 如星辰般的溫泉」，沒想到時至今日星星 已不再發光、看不見也摸不著了，隔著鐵 皮和門把的洞窺探、扳得咿呀作響，只能 靠想像填補此地往日的榮華。

Sound Geography VII

After passing through the former Japanese

spring house in Beitou: “Hoshino-yu” (Hot

garrison hospital and ZhongShan Rd. that I

Spring of Stars), also known as “Yitsun Hotel”.

had traversed many times, I crossed over a high

It was formerly the guest house of the Imperial

ground next to a peculiar round-shaped old

Army back in the Japanese Colonial Period.

apartment building. Then I realized they are

Rumor has it that Dr. Sun Yat-sen came here for

jointly connected to WenQuan Rd. from the

the famous hot spring once, and that was how

side of Xinbeitou.

the hotel came by its name. The hot spring of Hoshino-yu is white sulfur spring with a tint

The ground was still wet and slippery after the

of yellowish hue. Thanks to the whitish sulfur

rain. There was steam at the lower part of the

spots in the spring, it was hence referred as

forest, and the air was filled with moisture.

“the hot spring of stars”. Nonetheless, the stars

Not until I opened the map, did I see Thermal

went bleak, invisible and untouchable anymore

Valley transpiring warm vapor not far away. I

today. I could only bend so hard that the metal

shut the motorbike off on the way down, and

screamed, and peeked through the holes on

came on foot following the green shade to

the metal sheet and the doorknob, picturing its

this long apple-green wall of metal sheet and a

glorious days in the past.

1

signboard in white color with blue characters.

It was awkwardly quiet. A shabby Japanese style building and a courtyard was half exposed behind the metal sheet. The deserted compound filled with weed appeared not out of place at all as a huge trunk pierced right through the roof.

To my surprise, it was the once renowned hot

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Sound Geography VII

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Sound Geography VII

76

Sound Geography VII

78

Sound Geography VII

80

聲音地誌 VII 北投 Sound Geography VII Beitou

本書為「隱藏的時間：北投在地影像採集計畫 II」之展出作品，展覽於 2018 年 2 月 24 日至 2018 年 4 月 8 日 於鳳甲美術館展出。 This brochure is published on the occasion of the exhibition The Private Times: Beitou Local Image Collecting Project -II from 24 February, 2018 to 8 April, 2018 at Hong-Gah Museum.

出版單位 Publisher : 財團法人邱再興文教基金會 Chew's Culture Foundation

計畫執行單位 Organizaor : 鳳甲美術館 Hong-Gah Museum

特別感謝 Special thanks : 郭奕臣 I Chen KUO

葉佳蓉 Zoe YEH

陳照瑞 Zhao Rui CHEN

吳咨閔 Zimin WU

國防部政戰總隊軍士官 Political Warfare Regiment, M.N.D.

作者 / 編輯 / 設計 / 影像 / 文字 / 繪畫 : 劉致宏 翻譯：陳柏維 出版日期 2018 年 2 月 初版 版權所有，翻印必究 Author / Editor / Graphic Design / Image / Literature / Drawing : Chihhung LIU Translator : Jasper CHEN C

February 2018 Chihhung LIU . All rights reserved.

ISBN : 978-986-93131-7-9 ( 平裝 )