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in Brief 48 Great Finds
16 Calendar
What’s going on around town
20 Things to Know
Useful tips for roaming around Chiang Mai
22 Local Talk
An inspiring interview with Pharadon Phonamnuai, the owner of North Gate Jazz Co-op and Thapae East–Venue for the Creative Arts
32 Mystic Mountain Take a day trip to Doi Suthep,
Chiang Mai’s most famous landmark
40 The Temple on a Tiny Island
A virtual tour of Wat Koh Klang
Restaurants, cafés, accommodations and products for townsfolk and tourists alike
54 Chinese Story
- Authentic Thai recipes - 5 café-hopping favourites
60 Shopping
The ancient Chinese art of celadon pottery is alive and kicking in Northern Thailand.
62 Transport
Bus / Train / Airline Schedules
66 Index
Publisher Supap Pluempreedee Managing Director Sawasdi Posolee General Manager Pitcharee Wanta Editor in Chief Saenmuang Editorial Consultant Colin McLean Editorial Staff Samart Suwannarat Israwan Pothipun Khanidtha Aounfour Chinese Consultant Xiaojuan Li Translator Pattaraporn Wiwattanakarn Art Director Sangworn Hochaisiwanon Graphic Designers Sirada Mongkonphan Supaporn Norsine Vijittra Chaisri Chief Photographer Karin Mongkonphan Photographer Peerapol Khamlapis Advertising Director Maneerat Bond Area Manager Warapong Matiang Sales Executives Somruethai Ramasuth Watcharaporn Malipatin Advertising Coordinators Jina Y. Srinuan Aunthachai Accountants Yuparet Kasing Mayuree Tipjai
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In Chiang Mai, the Loy Krathong celebration is known as Yee Peng, and it marks the 12th month in the Thai lunar calendar and the second month in the traditional calendar of the old Lanna kingdom. The festival features beautifully illuminated lanterns, which are either carried, displayed in houses and temples, or even launched into the night sky. Location: Wat Pan Whaen
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E-mail: guidelinecm@hotmail.com info@guidelineschiangmai.com
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CALENDAR 25-29 October
Royal Funeral Ceremony for HM King Rama IX Visitors to Thailand will quickly appreciate that the late King Bhumibol, Jack Johnson’s New Album or Rama IX, was deeply revered and loved in this country and that his 8 September death last year was a turning point in our lives. Following a one-year period of mourning, the funeral for our late king will take place in Surf music lovers will already know that Jack Johnson’s latest Bangkok at Sanam Luang, which is opposite the Grand Palace. Here in album is adue out of this month on 8 September.is“All Thebuilt Light Chiang Mai, replica the Buddhist crematorium being at Above ChiangIt includes the ambientand tune “My Mind Centre Is for Sale”. After four are long MaiToo” International Exhibition Convention and all visitors years, wait finally over! album here at all on major invited to the dress in is black and pay Get theirthe respects the online day of sites. the cremation, 26 October.
7 October
New Release from Liam Gallagher (Oasis) If you can remember back to a world without Internet, you’re probably old enough to know about Oasis, the Manchester rock band with the temperamental brothers Liam and Noel Gallagher. Although Oasis is now disbanded, the bad-blood brothers go on making songs. This time it is big brother Liam who has a release, and it’s called As You Were, a fresh new album with some nostalgia for the old hits. Buy it online from 7 October.
12 October
1-3 and 14 October
Blade Runner is Back!
Tai Yai Festival in Mae Hong Son
It was a phenomenal cult movie back in 1982, and Ridley Scott’s long-awaited sequel is certain to be a big hit. A fantasy of science-fiction violence and intrigue, set in 2049 California, the new version brings back Harrison Ford and introduces Ryan Gosling. Should be good; check online for show times at all cinemas around Chiang Mai as from 12 October.
‘Poy Lerng Sib Aed’ is one of the largest and most colourful festivals on the Shan calendar. The Shan, or Tai Yai, are an ethnic people closely related to Thais. They live in northern Thailand, Myanmar, and across the Mekong region, and are mostly Buddhists, so they celebrate an annual fair with seasonal food and fruits to mark the end of Buddhist Lent. Local volunteers in Mae Hong Son (about a 7-hour drive from Chiang Mai) will build a small elegant palace where offerings can be made. This is a very photogenic event with lots of candlelight, incense, a parade, and festivities. The highlights are on the first and last days.
From 13 October
New Beck Album
Some music aficionados claim that Beck tracks are like a thermometer of the times, implying that his experiments and direction keep changing and updating over the years. Love him or not, Beck’s creativity is well admired and his latest album, Color, will certainly please a worldwide audience. Get it online as from 13 October. 16
14–15 October
Go Competition
The Go Festival Tournament 2017will be held on 1st floor of Chiang Mai Festival shopping mall. Play or observe; there are five competition categories from beginner to expert. Lovers of this ancient Chinese game will undoubtedly congregate, compete and converse all weekend. For more information: facebook.com/GFT2560/
29 October–4 November
Loy, Loy Kra-tong!
From 5 October
Lego Ninjago
Those who have grown up with Lego will adore this new movie. With the aid of some excellent technical graphics, these cherubic little cubeshaped dolls have taken to the silver screen in an animated version which will delight kids and adults alike. Check online for show times at all cinemas around Chiang Mai as from 5 October.
Loy Kratong is the name of Thailand’s most charming and celebrated festival. It is derived from ancient folklore and is about paying respect to Phra Mae Kong Kha–Goddess of the River. Join the local people of Chiang Mai at the riverbank one evening and marvel at the spectacular convoy of small candlelit boats floating down the river as lanterns fill the skies. Expect colourful parades, temple fairs, dancing, street stalls and much fun along both sides of the river, at Thapae Gate, Three Kings Monument, around the moat, and a fantastic display of Chinese lanterns at Maejo University.
From 1 November
Open Season at National Parks
1 November marks the day when many natural sites and national parks re-open post-rainy season, after being closed for a conservation period of up to four months. This is a precious opportunity toexperience the freshness, humidity and lush greenery of the rainforest. But please note that foreigners are charged higher fees for entry to national parks. Doi Inthanon, about 100 km west of Chiang Mai city, is Thailand’s highest mountain. The national park here is packed with waterfalls, scenic picnic spots,nature trails and hiking routes, mostly notably the Kew Mae Pan and Ang Kha trails. Doi Luang Chiang Dao is a remarkable geographical limestone mountain, framed as one of the most spectacular and mysterious natural sites and a “must” for all trekkers. 17
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Remembering H.M. King Bhumibol Adulyadej (1927–2016) Mass Transit Services
WELCOME
There are about 2,000 Red Cabs (pick-ups or song-taew) available throughout the city.
October is the beginning of Chiang Mai’s cool season; the rains ease and the sun shines. Many scenic attractions that were closed for conservation periods are re-opened to visitors. You should find many places for sightseeing and taking in the wonders of nature. You may realise that this month carries a high significance to the people of Thailand as we commemorate the one-year anniversary of the death of HM King Bhumibol on 13 October. The nation has observed a year-long period of mourning, culminating in the funeral of His Majesty on 2529 October. Visitors to this country are invariably struck by how highly revered and beloved King Bhumibol was, and still is in the hearts of the people. Even if you are a foreigner, you may be moved by how deeply sensitive an occasion this is. You may want to show your own respect by dressing in black during the five-day ceremony and observing the funeral on television. Of course, you can travel freely and have fun during your stay, but in addition we hope your visit to Thailand will be enriched by being here during such a historical event.
Airport taxi to anywhere downtown is 150 baht. For rides outside the ‘metropolis’: 50 baht as soon as you get in the cab, then 50 baht for the first two kilometres, and 10 baht per km thereafter. If you want to go somewhere outside the city, you will have to check the chart at the airport taxi counters (it’s usually 180 to 350 baht). 20
Airport Shuttle Bus (air-conditioned van) is available at Gate 9. Just 40 baht per person. Route 1: Airport–Central Kad Suan Kaew– Huay Kaew Road – Chiang Mai University; Route 2: Airport– Night Bazaar. Shuttles run 7am–9.30pm Shared red pick-up trucks (known as song-taew) are sometimes waiting at the exits or outside the airport. Price is about 40-60 baht.
Fixed Route Red Cabs: From 15 baht. Check all five routes on mobile application: CMTRANSIT (available both IOS and Android gadgets) White Cabs (No.12) available in Chiang Mai downtown only. Price is 15 baht. Purple-White Cabs run Chiang Mai– Lamphun (base station is Warorot Market). Price is 12–40 baht. Call (083) 325 4965. Blue Cabs run Chiang Mai– Doi Tao district (base station is Warorot Market). Price is 15–40 baht. Orange Cabs run Chiang Mai–Fang (base station is Chang Puak Bus Station). Price is 15–40 baht. Yellow Cabs cover three routes: Chiang Mai– Mae Rim; Chiang Mai– Doi Saket; and Chiang Mai– Chom Thong. Mae Rim and Doi Saket cabs start at Warorot Market while Chom Thong cabs run from Chang Puak Bus Station and Wua Lai Road (Chiang Mai Gate). White Cabs cover two routes: Chiang Mai– Mae Taeng (base stations: Chang Puak Bus Station, Warorot Market); and Chiang Mai– San Kamphaeng district (base station: Warorot Market).
Green Cabs run Chiang Mai– Sansai (base station: Warorot Market).
Telephone Numbers
Chang Puak Bus Station Arcade Bus Station Chiang Mai Railway Station
(053) 211 586 (053) 241 449 (053) 244 795
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Pharadon Phonamnuai 帕拉顿•普南艾
Chiang Mai is a wonderful city. Although small in size, it has a variety of lifestyles. You can customise your trip from start to 1-finish, and still enjoy it, whether you are Hi-society, hipster or backpacker. “I recommend visiting the old quarters, and take in the atmosphere of the temples and historic sites. One of the best ways to experience Chiang Mai, I think, is through our cuisine. The food culture here is so diverse and vibrant – everything from local favourites to international fare. The must-try dishes are: kao kha mu Chang Phuak, which you can find at the Chang Phuak gate market; and kao soi halal from any of the Muslim bistros on Chan Klan Road, close to the Night Bazaar.”
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Local talk 清迈NorthGate北门酒吧、Jazz co-op爵士乐吧 Thapae East - Venue for the Creative Arts 塔佩东创意酒吧创始人——帕拉顿•普南艾 我经常会和朋友说，”欢迎来到最特别的清迈！” 是的，清迈就是一座天堂般的小城。它是旅行者的天 堂，有太多让你迷恋上这座城的地方。不论是清迈得天 独厚的自然景观，还是悠久而不失距离感的历史文化， 还有各个时代的文化艺术，这些都是生活中的艺术。 关于旅游景点，我想素贴山是您最不能错过的标志 性景点。假如你有充裕的时间，不妨选择慢游素贴 山，不必太赶，你可以看看途经的寺庙、瀑布，和沿 路居住着的村落，去感受大自然的纯净和万物之间的 灵动吧。老实说，真没有哪座城市能像清迈这样坐落 于如此特殊的天然氧吧中，几分钟的车程就完全进 入高海拔境地。 除此之外，清迈也是一座 Music Lover “爱乐 之城”。你完全想象不到清迈汇聚着多少厉害的 音乐人，没有太多所谓的商业化，唯有你在别处 体验不到的音乐情怀。尤其是在清迈听 Rock、Blue 和 Jazz 音乐，太适合不过了。 相信我，没错的。这是一座让你还会再回来 的城市。
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Mystic Mountain You haven’t really been to Chiang Mai if you haven’t
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climbed Doi Suthep.” That’s what many a local will tell you, and to a degree it’s true.
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The city’s most famous landmark is the mountain that dominates from the west side of town. Beyond it is pure jungle, practically all the way to the Burmese border. And sitting atop the mountain, shimmering through the morning mist, is Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, an ancient Buddhist temple that no person in Thailand can fail to recognise. Sacred and majestic, this temple is a Mecca for Buddhist pilgrims and a “must-see” for every visitor to Chiang Mai. Wherever you are staying, the staff at your hotel will invariably ask if you have been to Doi Suthep yet. And you can expect a pained reaction if you say no. Historians date the temple back to 1368 AD; however the myths and legend surrounding it go
far deeper. It is said that a mystic monk originally came here and commissioned a white elephant to carry a relic of the Buddha to the top of the mountain. According to folklore, the elephant marched to the top of the mountain, trumpeted three times, and then fell dead on the spot. The king immediately ordered the construction of a temple on the very site where the elephant passed away. Visitors nowadays have the luxury of travelling to the top of the hill by red taxi, motorbike or even hiking. Aside from paying respect at the magnificent temple – amid throngs of pilgrims and tourists it must be said – you can easily turn a visit to the holy site into a full day trip with lunch spots, waterfalls and other hidden secrets.
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Getting there You can flag down a red taxi or tuktuk in the street or hire a car, motorbike or bicycle for the day. Probably the easiest and most economical way is to grab a red pick-up truck (called song-taew) which is a communal taxi service in Chiang Mai. You’ll find them all over; or make your way to Chiang Mai University Gate or Chiang Mai Zoo, which are located at the foot of the mountain. It’ll cost as little as 60 baht per person for a shared ride to the temple.
Hiking & Cycling For those with stamina who would like to enjoy a few hours of nature, trekking is a very viable option. Bear in mind it is 15 kilometres so you should set off early in the morning when it is cooler. There is a popular nature trail via a deciduous forest which starts behind Chiang Mai University. Check online so you know directions before heading out. You’re looking for the footpath up to Wat Pha Lard, another temple, smaller and mysterious, that for years was tucked away in the rainforest. To cycle (it’s a real thigh-buster!) you have to take the winding road all the way. Of course it’s a free-wheel back down, but make sure you take plenty of water for that eye-popping uphill push.
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Other Things to See & Do
• Chiang Mai Zoo The zoo is a great day out in itself, and the perfect starting point to head uphill to Doi Suthep. It has plenty of rare animals, both indigenous and imported. It also hosts a super aquarium and activities for kids. Oh, and did I mention that we have pandas here? Yes we do. Expect lots of walking at the zoo; it’s very spread out. • Kru Ba Srivichai Monument The late Buddhist monk Kru Ba Srivichai is revered as a saint in the Northern Thai region, and he was the initiator of the road to the top of the mountain in 1934. According to a local legend, anyone ascending to Wat Doi Suthep should first pay respect and make an offering at his shrine, which is located at the foot of the mountain, next to Chiang Mai Zoo.
• Huay Kaew Waterfall Historically significant due to its impact on irrigation, this waterfall is located behind Kru Ba Srivichai Shrine.The constant flow of water from this cascade is considered an omen for the city – woe betide us if it should ever run dry! • Mon Tha Than Water Fall The highest and most scenic waterfall in the vicinity, this lovely natural wonder has nine levels. It is situated close to the main road to Doi Suthep, so can be an ideal pit-stop on the way there or back. You pay a 40 baht entrance fee and must then march up to the second tier. • Pha Lard Temple Built back in the days of King Mengrai (1238–1311 AD), this ancient shrine is engulfed in a forest of trees. Today several additional prayer rooms and buildings have been added, and pilgrims often visit to make offerings. Pha Lard has two archaeological sites: one is a Mon pagoda whose history can be traced back to the Burmese period; and a small vihara prayer hall located close to a lovely waterfall, which is guarded by four ancient Buddha statues. 35
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• Viewpoint Conveniently located half-way to the peak by the side of the road, this spot is marked by a small sala or hut which offers respite from the heat. You’ll also see vans and stalls selling coffee, water and snacks. From the balcony of the hut you get a panoramic view of Chiang Mai city – so it’s a popular spot for selfies. • Wat Phra That Doi Suthep Temple When you finally reach the temple, you’ll be confronted by a sheer wall of steps flanked by “naga” bannisters. It’s a high-altitude climb so anyone with a heart condition would be advised just to wait at the bottom. The temple itself is an architectural masterpiece and supposedly hosts a relic of Lord Buddha (the one the elephant carried up). Thousands upon thousands of devotees, pilgrims and curious tourists visit this site every year. Keep your eyes open for a few surprising or unique details waiting for you: a map of the stars inside the main vihara; a statue of the famous albino elephant carrying the sacred relic; and an intricate statue of the Hindu god Ganesha.
Food & Drink
As a reward for your efforts in scaling the mountain and making a prayer to the Buddha, you should make your way to a restaurant on Huay Kaew Road when you get back down to the city again. There are many coffee shops and noodle stores near the university, and a popular fun restaurant called Boat which has both Thai and Western dishes. The diner Huay Kaew Ice Cream delivers exactly what it promises and has many fresh flavours to choose from. Go on, you deserve it!
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素贴山 大家都相信一句话： 没有到过素贴寺， 就不能算来过清迈。
不知道何时兴起的一句话，俨然已经成了游客们争相 前往素贴寺的原动力。这寺庙究竟有多强大的法力呢？不仅 当地人敬仰素贴山，同时也吸引着全世界的游客，来清迈定 要上素贴山一睹小城清迈之尊荣。 相传，早期人们上素贴山朝拜，走上一天一夜都不一 定能找到素贴寺原址，因为根本没有上山的路，但为了追随 当年圣象背驼珍贵“舍利子”上山的足迹，虔诚的信徒依旧 愿意跋山涉水，只为朝拜神寺——素贴寺。朝拜的人多了， 自然有了路，但依旧得走上6个小时才能到达，好在当时著 名古巴冼威猜大师的帮助下，于1934年11月9号开始动工， 历时五个月又二十二天，信众们终于能自发修筑出今天这条 上山的路。素贴寺的神奇法力，还有关于古巴冼威猜大师誓 言“滨河水倒流”的传说，当地人和这座神山结下了无法诉 说的传奇缘分。 清迈人依山而作，傍水而居。素贴山拥有丰富的自然 资源，生物多样性保存完整，这里没有过多的旅游项目开 发，更不可能贩售源自森林的旅游特产。但这里有护林人24 小时看护的绿色植被，这里还有前所未闻的佛教文化。本期 GUIDELIENEStravel《阅游》杂志，将要带大家去看看素贴 山上那些不常会看到的风景。
不同的出行方式 看见不同的美 红车 作为清迈最标致新的交通工具，是无所不能的出行方 式。上素贴山的红车一般会停在清迈大学前门、动物园门口 和古巴冼威猜纪念碑旁的三个临时站点，收集上山的客人。 每人来回80泰铢，等够10位即可发车。司机分别会在观景台 和素贴寺停留，等大家逛完寺庙，司机也会推荐是否去皇后 花园——普屏行宫，再加30泰铢/人即可。当然还有一种比 较可行的办法，自己约好大概6位同行的小伙伴儿，和司机 38
说好要去的地方，谈个可行的价钱即可出发。素贴寺来回一般 600泰铢/车，加普屏行宫和苗族村寨一般不会超过1600泰 铢/车。
徒步&自行车 每年清迈大学都会有两次迎接新生的登山仪式，浩瀚的 队伍在崎岖山路上蜿蜒盘旋，这是一次仪式，也是清迈大学学 子们代代相传的信仰。与此同时，每年的万佛节时期，佛教信 徒们也会连夜登上素贴山，打坐朝拜。虽然我们提到的登山都 是在特殊的活动日，但丝毫并不影响游客会选择在气候适宜的 时间选择徒步登上素贴山，这将会是一次记忆犹新的圣战之 旅。或者选择骑自行车上山，但我希望你是一位有经验的骑行 车，这样会比较能有效的控制骑行速度。我曾经徒步上山花了 5个小时，骑行一般会用3个小时左右。
自驾 对于带老人以及全家出游的朋友，自驾是最好的出行方 式，既能照顾到全家人，还能节省时间，但因素贴山山路着实 弯道复杂险峻，切记一定要谨慎驾驶。清迈租车自驾1200泰 铢/天，需要抵押护照，检查是否拥有中国驾照，最好能持有 国际驾照或者泰国驾照。
沿路的风景 虽然只是一条平凡之路，如果你愿意多花一点时间走进 那些路牌提示的景点，我相信你一定会比别人有更多的收获。 •清迈动物园 Chiang Mai Zoo 清迈动物园由一位美国 传教士 Mr. Harold Mason Young 在素贴山脚下于 1952 年建 造，属于他自己的私人动物园，后期规模越来越壮大，之后转 赠于清迈政府管理开发。在原有的动物饲养基础上，政府开发
迦”，几乎每座寺庙都会有娜迦神守护，在兰纳文化中，寺 庙的守护神还有神兽“蒙”，在素贴山靠近观景台的地方也 有。这两年，随着旅游大军的到来，素贴寺不仅是当地人毕 生都要去朝拜的寺庙，更是吸引大量游客慕名前往，参观金 色大塔，感受佛教徒们的虔诚信仰。素贴山的观景台也从原 来的一层，延伸出第二层，旁边修建出大型柚木观景台，四 颗直径接近一米的柚木雕花圆柱傲然挺立，着实壮观。
一日游中的美食
出了多个区域，集合专业饲养以及旅游观光服务，加设了水 族馆、熊猫园、雪城和马场等等，同时还提供团体观光车以 及私人观光车服务，进门票价为大人150 泰铢/人，小孩 70泰 铢/人，依个人偏好，选择合适的观光方式和项目。 •古巴冼威猜纪念堂 Kru Ba Srivichai Monument 相传，古巴冼威猜乐善好施，帮助各地百姓兴办教学修建寺 庙，属南奔府及泰北地区各地信众敬仰的得道高僧，但因种 种原因，古巴立下誓言，誓死不再踏入清迈土地半步，除非 滨河水倒流。但因后辈乡绅想要感谢古巴筹资修建上素贴山 之路，便请曼谷的铸造大师打造“古巴冼威猜黄金神像”， 但神像运回清迈后却搬不动，这可着急了，难道古巴真不愿 意踏足清迈吗？直到某日，滨河水真显现“倒流”，古巴神 像搬动了。有人说，是由于下游河流关闭闸门。但人们都相 信，这是古巴显灵，所以你会看到随时都有当地人前来朝拜 祈福。 •怀桥瀑布 Huay Kaew Waterfall 怀桥瀑布是距离清迈 城最近的山泉水，也是人们最容易看到的流水瀑布，水流直 接流入古城护城河，怀桥瀑布好似清迈人的生命之源泉，大 家相信如果某一天听不到怀桥瀑布的流水声音，整个清迈城 将会遭受磨难，所以人们会一直保持要让这个瀑布的水不能 断流。 •蒙塔滩瀑布 Mon Tha Than Water Fall 蒙塔滩瀑布应 该算是这一条山路上最大的瀑布，流水高度跨度大，散开的 水花美丽而壮观，但从素贴山主干道进入瀑布森林公园将有 15分钟的车程，门口有售票点，每人40泰铢，并且会收取相 应的汽车停车费用。瀑布全程将有9层，游客可以沿着楼梯栈 道上去参观。 •帕拉寺 Pha Lard Temple 我想这是这条路上最令我 震惊的寺庙，错过了帕拉寺，我会很难过的。这是一处不太 引人注目，直到近些年才逐步看到新建迹象的古老寺庙，源 自孟莱王时期，带有浓厚孟族宗教文化特色的寺庙。不论是 佛像雕塑特点，还是娜迦护卫等天神的塑像都是那样的惟妙 惟肖和与众不同。孟族是缅甸与泰国最古老的民族，最早信 仰从斯里兰卡带来的上座部佛教。 •观景台 Viewpoint 素贴山的路上全程有三处非常重 要的观景台，分别从不同角度鸟瞰清迈，这是一座小城，但 当你从素贴山看见她的时候，她并不像传说中的那么小呀！ 或许是人们都把自己的位置放得很低吧，这算是一种包容与 谦逊吗？我想是的。 •素贴寺 Wat Phra That Doi Suthep Temple 建于1929 年的素贴山素贴寺，也是大部分中国游客口中的“双龙寺” ，所谓的“双龙”，既是寺庙下方两行雄伟的守护神“娜
上素贴山游玩，少则两小时，多则一天，不同的游玩方 式，需要准备不同的食物。如果您是徒步或者骑行，早餐一 定要吃好，储存充足的能量，随身携带矿泉水和充饥干粮。 途中大部分不太会有食物，但是在观景台会有烤鸡和饮料销 售。如果大家能在中午时段下山，我们推荐怀桥瀑布旁的 HuenHuayKaew Restaurant“瀑布餐厅”，这是一处既能喝 咖啡吃饭，还能欣赏瀑布美景的绝佳饭馆，不论是中餐还是 晚餐都可以选择这里。或者是走到清迈大学附近的 BOST“船 坞餐厅”，这是一家在芭提雅已经拥有美味餐厅的老牌旅游 餐厅，这里单点消费不贵，基本在40-70泰铢/份，口味觉得 包你满意。如果吃饭时间大家刚好在山上的话，不烦试试素 贴寺外的 Street Food 街边小吃，要知道在山上只有这里才有 如此之多的街边小吃哦！旅程的最后，我想特别为大家推荐 动物园外的咖啡馆 Milk At HuayKaew “怀桥小牛奶”，据说 这是清迈最早的冰激凌店，旁边既是泰国知名牛奶工厂，这 里的冰激凌和优格是全清迈最好吃的，冰激凌价格20泰 铢/盒，有草莓和纯奶口味，还有无糖优格，这里的无糖优格 中加入了4%的天然植物甜味，来自泰式草药“甜草”。
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The Temple on
a Tiny Island Before coming to Chiang Mai, you may have laid out a plan of action. You want to take in all the “must-see” temples, elephant sanctuaries and mountain retreats, but you also want to get out and visit some lesser known spots. You don’t have a limitless schedule, of course, and cannot afford to spend day after day driving across northern Thailand in search of historical Buddhist shrines. So you’ll be glad to know that around the outskirts of Chiang Mai city lurk some hidden gems, several small but historical temples unknown to the average tourist. In this issue of Guidelines Travel, we will take you on a virtual tour of one of those Holy Grails. But ssshhhh, don’t tell everybody!
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Wat Koh Klang, Chiang Mai This tucked-away Buddhist temple was founded in B.E.2410 (1867 AD) and was originally built on a tiny island in the middle of the Ping River, where it was formerly known as Wat Pong Sanook Nang Liao. You can still see the original brick temple on the island, which now sits on a lake. Wat Koh Klang has a lovely tranquil tree-shaded compound, and you can marvel at the contrast of ancient brick architecture and fabulous contemporary craftsmanship.
What to focus on The most splendid feature of Wat Koh Klang is the Buddha image hall, which is decorated with contemporary white stucco and colourful stained glass, plus statues of lions and nagas. The principal Buddha image enshrined under the arch was sculpted by local craftsmen. The pagoda behind the temple is designed in Burmese style, like many other round pagodas in Chiang Mai. The wooden chapel is beautifully decorated with wooden carvings and gilded work. There are other interesting features to observe – the traditional drum tower (pu ja), the Tripitaka Hall, and the Lanna arch.
Highlights Inside the temple, you can view beautiful contemporary Thai-style murals, painted in perfect proportion and depicting lively folklore. The northern wall tells the legend of Suwannahong
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(meaning Golden Swan), an epic tale of a prince’s love, duels with giants, and magical intrigue. The southern wall has a mural that recounts the history of Wat Koh Klang. The paintings depict its island status and the surrounding community. It has lovely scenes of local lifestyles, including work in the timber trade which was common on the river, and festivals with dancing and parades.
Lanna funeral castles Used as part of traditional ritual during the cremation of revered monks and important persons, the funeral castle is an intricate part of Lanna (Northern Thai) culture. Wat Koh Klang has long been a hub for craftsmen making these funereal monuments. The abbot of the temple is the primary supporter of this craft, and he allows carpenters and workmen some space in the temple compound to create their Lanna Funeral Castles. Traditionally, the people of Lanna believe that if they build a funeral castle, it will enable the soul of the cremated body to rise to heaven where he or she will live in a glorious crystal castle. The distinctive point about the funeral castles created at Wat Koh Klang is that they are kept solely for the rites of head monks and nobles. Wat Koh Klang pier is one of the most photogenic highlights of Chiang Mai. In the evening, the waterfront space is cool and suitable for exercising, walking or relaxing. Some parts are set aside for market stalls. During the Loy Kratong festival in November, Wat Koh Klang pier is a favourite spot for locals to celebrate.
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How to get there Wat Khoh Klang is about 10 kilometres south of Chiang Mai city centre. It is accessible by bicycle or motorbike. Head south on Chang Klan Road (Night Bazaar Road) along the west bank of the Ping River. Pass under Mahidol Bridge and drive along the river. You’ll see Wat Chedi Liem,a Hindu-looking temple, on the other side. Go on another kilometre and pass under the Inner Ring Road bridge. You’ll see Pa Dad Bridge on your left; cross the bridge and the road takes you straight into Wat Koh Klang.
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Local Surprise 本地特色寺庙——果甘寺 大家喜欢清迈，偶尔也会因为信息太过复杂而不知道 怎么玩，有的朋友也会因为旅游时间的短暂而担心不能完 全欣赏到清迈的美。如果让我来精准设计这次旅行的话， 大致可分为古城内和古城外两种，游古城注重感受清迈的 地方人文，用 2-3 小时的时间去城郊游玩，深入腹地体验大 自然的清新，感受那些生活在山里、生活在大山脚下的兰 纳泰式生活。 清迈GUIDELINEStravel《阅游》杂志注重本地旅游 资源分享，把清迈人最喜欢的地方分享给爱清迈的你。本 期将要带大家去体验令人惊艳的本地特色之一，就算没有 导游讲解，也能玩出“最高端”的深度自由行。
不可错过的故事
滨河边小小的一座果甘寺，最初建在河边果甘村，原 名“阿良女神寺”，距离清迈城中心15公里处，开车仅需 20分钟即可到达。这是一座建于150年前（1867年）的古 老寺庙，是滨河岸边果甘村和巴登村人的宗教文化中心， 寺庙后面既是湄滨河。有座小桥横跨滨河两岸，供行人及 摩托车通行，同时也把果甘村和巴登村两个村落联系在一 起。也许你也不是经常拜佛的佛教徒，但泰国的寺庙简直 就是汇聚了大部分地方文化的文化中心，不同地区不同环 境，人们的生活方式及崇尚的人文情怀都记录在这些村落 寺庙里。尤其是果甘寺的清幽环境及整洁有序的设施摆 放，那些有特色的建筑物和佛龛壁画，都是早期延续至当 代最有分量的历史凭证。
-寺庙内的壁画特色 如果来到果甘寺而忽略墙上的佛 教壁画实属可惜，早期文字教育并不发达，人们通过口耳 相传以及壁画故事讲解来传播佛教文化，是东南亚早期普 遍用来统领民众思想的方式。随着社会的不断发展，不同 地区的寺庙壁画开始加入村落生活的记载和对美好生活的 期许，画师的手艺也不断发生变化，画佛主、画天神， 画“因果报应图”教育世人，也画儿童乐趣，生活琐事。 -寺庙以南的壁画群 记录着果甘村的种种“大事件”， 伴随着栩栩如生的画像，把果甘村的历史故事告诉后人。 -葬礼文化 自古以来泰国寺庙是世人的政治、经济、 思想文化中心，不论是小孩出生，还是婚丧嫁娶，以及获 取高官名爵，都要到寺庙来敬拜，既是对未来的期许，也 是对以往祈祷的还愿。相信神明的保佑，也是相信自身对 实现愿望的努力。果甘寺既是这样一座至今都还在发挥作 用的寺庙，老百姓家里有人过世，也会联系果甘寺做法 事，为亡灵超度，安抚后人继续好好生活下去。 -果甘寺码头 夕阳西下的果甘寺，风景优美，安静怡 人，附近村落的居民也会聚集于此锻炼身体，放松休闲， 好一派欢乐祥和的气氛。尤其是到了水灯节时期，大人小 孩们都会在果甘寺码头放水灯，祈求来年幸福安康。
值得参观的建筑
如何到达果甘寺
清迈河边寺庙——果甘寺
通过参观寺庙能看到当地村民喜欢的东西，参观寺庙 建筑要从大殿开始，尤其是在高甘寺看见的水泥壁画，设 计精美雕工精湛，属于现代泰式风格。有的水泥石雕上贴 着反光镜亮片，更加增添的金光闪闪的辉煌气息。大殿内 供奉着箜帕召佛像，这样的佛龛影响着后期清迈大部分的 佛龛筑建文化，这是源自20世纪的缅甸佛龛风格，之所以 在寺内供奉缅寺佛龛，既是受到缅甸宗教文化的影响，也
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是为了让人们记住缅甸攻占清迈的那段历史。寺庙中还有 多处包含兰纳王朝时期建筑风格的佛寺建筑，保留历史的 同时，也传承了自身的文化。
走昌康路，穿过玛西隆路桥下通道，沿着河边走1公 里，上巴登桥走到河对岸即可到达，推荐大家上午过去， 避开上下班高峰期。
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great finds
Take a Wrap 带一支卷饼
Health lovers will surely seek out a Wrap Salad as the perfect choice for an energy boost. With tasty fresh chicken or tuna with organic veggies, the wrap salad is low in calories and comes with either whole wheat, pumpkin or rice flour wraps. They taste best with signature dressings.
Order your wrap at 08-5908-0090 Facebook: Take a Wrap
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好疯狂的 Idea 和店名，带一支卷饼吧！ 来自 Take a Wrap 的健康墨西哥卷饼，吃法简单， 方便携带，能快速饱腹，而且还是伴随着新鲜蔬菜的有机 食物哦。大家可以选择搭配食材，可以是鸡肉、金枪鱼， 以及其他低热量的有机沙拉，还有全麦片、南瓜和各种坚 果等等。 预定电话：08-5908-0090 FACEBOOK: Take A Wrap
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great finds
CLBS, It’s More Than Just a Job. 清迈兰纳商务服务公司
Chiang Mai Lanna Business Services (CLBS) is an outsourcing-company, which assists small and
medium-size companies as well as freelancers throughout Europe and Asia.
12 years ago, surrounded by the misty hills of Chiang Mai, starting with just a handful of foreign
and Thai employees, CLBS had a dream and the ambition to achieve it. Today, that handful has become a workforce of over 250 employees from 16 different countries. For many companies, growth and profit are the only motivations, but from the very start, CLBS has wanted not only to be in Chiang Mai, but to truly be a part of Chiang Mai.
CLBS believes that, only through cultural integration, can they give all they have to offer. By work-
ing together with local businesses, charities and organisations, including the Thai Board of Investment, through excursions, partnerships and donations, as well as teaching the Thai language and culture to their employees, they can achieve their goal of becoming a real asset to Chiang Mai and Thailand. This ethos has led them to becoming the largest employer of foreign nationals in Northern Thailand, and they promise that no matter how much they grow, their beliefs in cultural integration, will only grow with them.
Chiangmai Lanna Business Services Ltd Airport Business Park Building C, 92/1 Mahidol Rd., T. Haiya, Muang, Chiang Mai Tel. (081) 024 8080
清迈兰纳商务服务公司创建于2005年，是一家外包（outsourcing）公 司，负责协助泰国中小型企业与欧洲及亚洲各国的优秀承接团队之间的项目 沟通与搭建，并且得到泰国投资委员会的大力支持。 随着近几年在泰国生活与居住的外国人口数量增加，来自各个国家的外 籍人士都各自拥有本国的文化传统，同时也有意向参与到泰国各界的文化传 统活动中。CLBS清迈兰纳商务服务公司热诚欢迎各位外籍人士前来商务洽谈， 公司开展项目广泛，旨在促成各国之间的商务文化交流。例如：在水灯节期 间组织制作水灯捐赠给寺庙，参加有机蔬菜农场活动，了解生态循环体系， 促进生态植物动物保护等等。CLBS促进各非营利性组织之间的交流与合作， 把更多的资源精准分配到当地的家庭及个人，参与研究清迈及泰国及其地区 的可持续发展。
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ASEAN Design & Business Center 东盟设计&商务中心
ASEAN Design & Business Center is a new platform for hosting trade, investment and business negotiations between entrepreneurs from the 10 Southeast Asian nations. The Center offers an exhibition hall to display some 3,000 products from the following ASEAN member states: Singapore, Brunei, Malaysia, the Philippines, Indonesia, Vietnam, Myanmar, Laos, Cambodia and Thailand. Products from sectors such as décor, fashion, textiles, health & wellness, and food & beverages from our four northern provinces – Chiang Mai, Mae Hong Son, Lampang and Lamphun – are also promoted. What’s more, the Center has unveiled a Business Matching service to help connect international entrepreneurs to local businesspeople, as well as hosting workshops and seminars.
东盟设计商务中心是东盟10 国民间及企业家合作投资 交流平台，旨在促进国家之间各项商务洽谈合作，使之达 到最有效的商务往来及文化交流。 商务中心设有展示厅，用来展示；来自文莱、马来西 亚、菲律宾、印度尼西亚、越南、缅甸、老挝、柬埔寨和 泰国的超过3000种产品。尤其是占据地理位置优势的泰国 北部地区，有大量来自清莱、清迈、湄宏顺、南邦、南奔 等地的特色产品。 此外，商务中心还推出一系列的商务洽谈配套服务， 帮助本地企业和外界企业家达成良好的沟通，并不定期举 办研讨会及产品推介会。
ASEAN Design & Business Center by Office of Commercial Affairs Chiang Mai Open daily: 8.30am–4.30pm Facebook: ASEAN Design & Business Center Tel. 053-216350-1
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great finds
It Is Wheel Café 依斯维咖啡
This newly opened cafe on Middle Ring Road is decorated in modern loft style, incorporating contemporary art pieces in an interior combining steel and wood. The aroma of roasted coffee beans lurks in the background, melting in with the cool ambient tunes. It Is Wheel Cafe is the perfect place to sit back and enjoy your favorite cup of coffee. Don’t miss its signature It is Wheel Coffee, which is blended Thai style. Enjoy a cuppa joe with some light homemade bakery goodies. All day breakfast is also available.
It Is Wheel Café Middle Ring Road, Nong Chom, San Sai District, Chiang Mai Open daily: 7am–4pm Tel. 096-878-9415
清迈二环线上新开的咖啡馆，以现代阁楼装饰风格为主，将 当代极简艺术融入杆架结构中，咖啡浓香充满整个店面，店里采用 自家烘焙的豆子，既能了解客人对咖啡口感的需求，同时也能让客 人深入了解自己喝的咖啡来源。 咖啡馆内有充足的冷气，是您享受咖啡的理想之地。清迈的 每家特色咖啡馆都会有一款“镇店咖啡”，所以对于第一次来依斯 维的朋友，不妨先尝试依斯维咖啡。 这里还有自制烤面包和美味的早餐供应。
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Robinson Tourist Privileges 罗宾森商场游客特惠
Get 10–30% discount + Vat Refund up to 6% at all branches of Robinson Department Store. Special Offer: Purchase up to 12,000 baht in goods and get a free bag set (2 pcs) worth 190 baht. Offer lasts from 8 September to 31 December 2017.
在罗宾森商场购物享有10%-30%的折扣，享受高达6%的退税政策。 特别优惠：购买商品价值达到12000泰铢，将会获赠价值190泰铢礼品袋（2件）。 活动时间：2017年9月8日至12月31日
ROBINSON CHIANGMAI Tel : 053-203640-53 www.robinson.co.th 53
泰式凉拌
四棱豆
nged Spicy Wi ad Bean Sal -
- ย�ำถั่วพูกุ้งสด 的四棱豆
带地区 原产于亚热 高， ，营养价值 腻 细 嫩 脆 口感 南方地 植于中国 同时也种 功效。 区，有保健
食材 四棱豆 200 克、白虾肉 4-5 只、猪绞肉 30 克、炒 椰肉、小米辣碎、油炸过得红蒜头丝、水煮蛋
调料 泰国烧辣酱 1 汤勺、鱼露 1 汤勺、柠檬 1 汤勺、 椰子糖 1 茶匙、椰浆 3 汤勺
做法
1.把四棱豆、猪绞肉和虾涨水汆熟，然后用冰水 降温。 2.把全部调料放入大碗里，再加入小米辣碎、 虾、猪绞肉和四棱豆混合搅拌均匀。 3.摆盘上桌，撒炒过的椰肉和红蒜头点缀。
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小妙招： 想要烧出最正宗的泰味，一定要在泰式作料上 下功夫。
It is wheel Bar & Restaurant facebook: iswheel
扫描二维码 回复 “泰式凉拌四棱豆” 【保存制作方法 链接品尝店家及地址】
泰南红虾酱
炒米粉
t Sauce Coconu ee gati) Recipe (m
ใต้ -
- ผัดหมี่กะทิแดง
活起居 候炎热，生 食偏 泰国南部气 的 ，泰南 饮 情 风 岛 海 时受到 充满了 味居多，同 口 林 斯 穆 响，缔 辣， 亚美食的影 泰 西 来 马 国 邻 的 合南部气候 造出多种适 南美食。
食材 细米粉 200 克（泡水）、红蒜头切丝 3-4 颗、虾 肉（猪肉或者鸡肉）适量、韭菜100克、虾肉末100 克、白豆腐150克、白豆豉1/4 量杯、葱段、香菜、鸡 蛋饼切丝、豇豆、银合欢叶
小妙招： 想要烧出最正宗的泰味，一定要在泰式作 料上下功夫。
调料 清椰浆 1 量杯、浓椰浆 1 量杯、植物油 1 茶匙、 生抽 3-4 汤匙、秘制酱汁 3-4 汤匙、老抽 2 汤匙、 盐、鸡精少许、酸角汁 2 汤匙、鱼露 1/4 量杯、椰子 糖
做法
1.热锅烧油，放入红蒜头爆香，放入虾肉炒熟。 2.加入准备好的调料，翻炒均匀，试尝调味料是 否合适，最后倒入细米粉翻炒。 3.不需要炒太久，锅内水分减少即可装盘，最后 用蛋饼丝、香菜和葱段等点缀。
Kamphaengkaew Restaurant facebook: Kamphaengkaew By Chef Tutu
扫描二维码 回复 “泰南红虾酱炒米粉”
55
Bart coffee 巴特咖啡 隐藏在大大的酸角树下，看 不出任何咖啡馆迹象的小屋。像极 了旧时代的小卖部，如果不是那台 闪闪发亮的咖啡机，除了圈内人和咖啡 达人，很少有游客会为它停留。当然，今天之所以要 请出本尊，也是想向大家传达一种氛围：咖啡，是在 那一丝苦味之后的酸涩回忆。迷你的咖啡馆，迷你的 吧台，除了画一般的意境，就只剩下一台机器和一位 咖啡师。似乎越厉害的咖啡师就越喜欢这种一个人的 空间，漂亮的装饰比不过他手中的一杯咖啡，他叫拉 维彭帕尼。 地址：Moonmuang Rd., Soi 6 营业时间: 8am - 5pm Facebook：Bartcoffee
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清迈古城内 的咖啡馆 清迈COMPASS杂志推荐
Oon poshtel x café OON粉红咖啡 仔细观察生活中的颜色，你会发 现今年的粉红来得很凶猛，时尚流行色 是粉红，艺术设计也涉及大量粉红元素，就连建筑色彩也 十分粉红。不知道是不是心理因素，不过还得归功于“潘 通”Pantone 把 Rose Quartz 定为 2016 年主打色系。OON Poshtel x Café十分小清新，若隐若现的柔光粉红叫人无 法不多留一会儿，负责任的说，之所以会叫“OON”,是因 为发音与泰北方言的粉红色发音极为相似，形容姑娘温文 尔雅，楚楚动人。还有一层意思则是咖啡馆靠近Wat Chomphu“粉红寺”。咖啡馆外的柚木门框搭配随风飘 舞的蕨类植物，粉白的墙壁，原木色的家具陈设，更加彰 显温柔典雅的淑女气息。地址：56 Chaiyaphom Rd., Changmoi, Chiang Mai营业时间：7.30am - 9.00pm Facebook：oonposhtel 57
All blue café
蓝咖啡
很大程度上你会怀疑为何它要叫做 All blue café，但整间咖啡馆都被涂成了黄色， 到底蓝在哪里？ 解开谜底之前，我们来聊聊这里的咖啡 吧。时下最流行的冷萃咖啡，不仅是各个国家 都在争相模范的新时尚，在清迈这座慢生活小 城也开了不少主打冷萃咖啡的咖啡馆。厉害的 之处在于，清迈的咖啡师极具创造力，所以让 一大波冷萃咖啡来袭的时候，随便走进一家咖 啡馆，你都能品尝到不同口感的冷萃咖啡。All blue café 位于古城以东，塔佩门方向，因为 咖啡师很喜欢《海贼王》，所以很任性的涂满 了海贼王的主打色，All blue代表着蓝色的大 海，就像这里的冷萃咖啡“今天做，明天 喝。”任性吧！但咖啡师有他心中宛如浩瀚大 海般的坚持。地址：Moonmuang Rd.Soi7营业 时间:8.30am–9pm Facebook:AllBlueCafeCNX
Rakuda photo artisans&Cafe 拉库达摄影咖啡 源于那些胶片相机镜头下朦胧，我迷恋上了Rakuda photo artisans&Café的咖啡因。也许主人胶片相机下的那些作品，正是留住咖啡味道的主 旋律，一杯浓香的意式浓缩，时间停在舌尖与咖啡触碰的那一瞬间，谁能记 住此刻的味道呢？正是那一张张的复古照片。地址：11/2IntrawarorotRd.,Soi1,SiPhum,Muang,Chiang Mai 营业时间(周一休息):Tue–Sun 9am– 6pm（周六周日延时1小时） Facebook: Rakuda photo artisans&Cafe
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Café Arte 艺术咖啡 虽然没有把咖啡馆的位置放 在游客最集中的位置，但小小的一 间咖啡屋也着实吸引不少咖啡爱好 者进去一探究竟。第一次认识 Café Arte 是在2012年，那时候店 址还在瓦洛洛市场最美丽的那条巷 子口，后来店主说未来要搬家了， 殊不知，当我再去 Café Arte 的时 候已经是 2017 年。店里依旧摆放 着清迈最具艺术气息的艺术品，这 小小的店面当然也是店主最得意的 设计之一，花园般的艺术咖啡屋值 得您在这里逗留一整天。地 址：Moonmuang Rd., Soi 7营业时 间: 7am – 5pm Facebook: Café Arte Chiang Mai
Nowhere coffee brewers 咖啡制造小馆 “做咖啡，并不是从社 交软件上模仿就能做到的。” 来自店主的咖啡宣言。Nowhere coffee brewers 注重咖啡 烘焙，从咖啡豆原产地到咖啡 烘焙都在咖啡师的严苛把控之 下。至于咖啡款式更是没得 说，与众不同之处就如它的名 字一样，高傲而充满自信。墨 兰色的隔板搭配错落有致的吧 台设计，不仅是当下泰国年轻 人追逐的热门咖啡馆，也是游 客一眼就能爱上的休息地。地 址：Si Phum, Muang Chiang Mai 营业时间: 8am–5pm Facebook:Nowherehandroaster 59
= SHOPPING =
Mengrai Kilns The Aesthetics of Celadon
In 1973, a small factory was launched in Chiang Mai with the objective of producing high-fired stoneware with a translucent cracked sea-green glaze. Known as “celadon”, it is created from wood ash and compounded silt from paddy fields. The pottery and artworks are fired to their traditional jade colour in a reduction atmosphere at a temperature of between 1,260 and 1,300 °C, a process that is reputed to have developed in China about 2,000 years ago. The intention was to keep this ancient craft alive by drawing inspiration from antique celadon made at various places in Lanna (what is now Northern Thailand), in particular at Sawankhaloke, Srisatchanalai, Sukothai and San Kamphaeng, as well as from the original antique ware in China. The small family enterprise was named Mengrai Kilns in memory of King Mengrai the Great (1238–1311), who founded Chiang Mai more than 720 years ago.
60
Nowadays, the products of Mengrai Kilns enjoy a global reputation; much of what is made is exported. The operation is deliberately kept on a small scale to facilitate personal supervision in order to maintain and improve quality. As far as possible, traditional materials and methods remain in use. Only 39 craftsmen and women are employed at the factory, and each is a creative artist in his or her own right. They are rightfully proud of their skills, and personally sign each piece they make.
孟莱窑 ——兰纳国王的最美瓷窑——
Mengrai Kilns
清迈孟莱窑瓷器 79/2 Arak Rd. (behind Chinese Pavilion), T. Phra Singh, Muang Chiang Mai Open daily: 8am–5pm Tel. 0-5327- 2063, 0-5381- 4080 www.mengraikilns.com
清迈“孟莱窑”是一家创建于1974年的合资企业， 由来自新西兰的 Alex Walker 和来自英国的 Donald Gibson，以及泰国的阿吾西素力医生共同创办。为了学 习及传承泰国古老的青瓷文化，不遗余力。这是源自中 国两千多年前的瓷器文化，流传至泰国后，采用泰国北 部陶土及草木灰等天然配料，在1260-1300摄氏度高温 的窑炉中完成烧制工艺，使之达到和古代陶瓷质地完全 接近的现代瓷窑工艺，如果混入大量氧气，将会出现绿 色偏黄的陶瓷色彩。 孟莱窑近四十多年的生产工艺及销售成绩，逐渐形 成孟莱窑的品牌文化，极具手工原创的泰国青瓷工艺， 使得孟莱窑这一清迈品牌早已走上国际陶瓷市场。孟莱 窑不同于一般泰国青瓷，它既有带 有玻璃裂纹的传统青瓷，也有 注重青铜厚实感的特色陶 瓷器皿。当你走在孟莱 窑门店展示院里 时，这是一种说 不出的亲切，大 到陶瓷凳子及装 饰，小到瓷碟纪 念品，任何一件 商品都让人爱不 释手。
61
AIRLINE SCHEDULES THAI AIRWAYS INTERNATIONAL CHIANG MAI TO BANGKOK
NOK AIR
THAI AIR ASIA
CHIANG MAI - BANGKOK (DON MUANG)
CHIANG MAI TO BANGKOK FD3438
0825
0940
Daily
DD8303
0840
0945
Daily
FD3446
1015
1120
Daily
DD8307
1045
1150
Daily
FD3436
1120
1235
Daily
DD8313
1425
1530
Daily
FD3448
1335
1450
Daily
DD8319
1810
1915
Daily
FD3434
1435
1550
Daily
DD8325
2040
2145
Daily
FD3426
1550
1710
Daily
DD8327
2155
2300
Daily
FD3440
1625
1740
Daily
FD3432
1735
1850
Daily
FD3430
1955
2110
Daily
FD3444
2115
2230
Daily
Daily
FD3428
2240
2355
Daily
Daily
BANGKOK TO CHIANG MAI
TG103
1005
1125
Daily
TG 111
1510
1620
Daily
TG 117
1920
2030
Daily
TG121
2050
2210
Daily
TG 2177
0640
0800
Daily
TG 5947
0655
0815
Daily
TG 5949
1010
1130
Daily
BANGKOK (DON MUANG) CHIANG MAI
TG2159
1040
1150
Daily
DD8302
0700
0810
TG 5951
1200
1320
Daily
DD8306
0905
1015
TG 2161
1255
1410
Daily
DD8312
1240
1350
Daily
TG 5953
1440
1600
Daily
DD8316
1420
1530
Daily
DD8318
1630
1740
TG 2169
1545
1700
Daily
DD8324
1900
2010
TG 5955
1640
1800
Daily
DD8326
2015
2125
TG 2165
1710
1825
Daily
TG 5957
1900
2020
Daily
TG 5959
2105
2225
Daily
TG 2167
2145
2310
Daily
FD3437
0650
0745
Daily
Daily
FD3445
0830
0930
Daily
FD3435
0915
1040
Daily
Daily
FD3447
1150
1305
Daily
Daily
FD3433
1250
1405
Daily
FD3425
1355
1515
Daily
FD3439
1440
1555
Daily
FD3431
1545
1705
Daily
FD3429
1810
1920
Daily
FD3443
1925
2040
Daily
FD3427
2100
2210
Daily
FD3419
2145
2300
Daily
Chiang Mai International Airport, 1st Fl. Tel. (053) 922 183 www.nokair.com
BANGKOK AIRWAYS
BANGKOK TO CHIANG MAI 0755
0915
Daily
TG 110
1310
1420
Daily
CHIANG MAI TO BANGKOK
FD3160
1135
1335
Daily
TG 116
1720
1830
Daily
PG 222
0655
0815
Daily
FD3162
1310
1515
Daily
PG 216
1010
1130
Daily
TG 120
1840
2000
Daily
PHUKET - CHIANG MAI
TG 2168
0700
0820
Daily
TG 5946
0805
0920
Daily
PG 220
TG2158
0845
0955
Daily
PG228
TG 5948
1000
1115
Daily
BANGKOK TO CHIANG MAI
TG 2160
1055
1215
Daily
TG 5950
1230
1345
Daily
TG 5956
1435
1550
Daily
TG 2164
1520
1635
Daily
TG 2166
1955
2110
TG 5960
2135
TG 2176
2215
PG 224
1200
1320
Daily
PG 907
1440
1600
Daily
PG 226
1640
1800
Daily
1900
2020
Daily
2105
2225
Daily
PG215
1035
1240
Daily
FD3159
1410
1605
Daily
FD3167
2015
2215
Daily
CHIANG MAI - HAT YAI FD3064
0645
0845
Daily
FD408
1525
1735
Daily
0920
Daily
PG270
1000
1115
Daily
HAT YAI - CHIANG MAI
PG217
1230
1345
Daily
FD3065
0915
1120
Daily
PG906
1435
1550
Daily
FD409
1825
2030
Daily
PG219
1700
1815
Daily
PG906
1900
2015
Daily
Daily
PG221
2135
2255
Daily
2255
Daily
CHIANG MAI - SAMUI
2330
Daily
PG242
THAI AIRWAYS (DOMESTIC): 240 Prapokklao Rd., Muang, Chiang Mai Tel. (053) 920 921 -34, (053) 920 999 www.thaiairways.com
FD3161
0805
1230
1415
Daily
SAMUI - CHIANG MAI PG241
1000
1150
Daily
CHIANG MAI - PHUKET PG248
1415
1620
Daily
PHUKET - CHIANG MAI PG 247
1110
1315
Daily
Chiang Mai Office: 2nd Fl., Chiang Mai International Airport, A. Muang, Chiang Mai 50000. Tel. (053) 281 519 Fax: (053) 281 520. www.bangkokair.com
62
CHIANG MAI - PHUKET
TG 102
CHIANG MAI - KRABI FD3070
0635
0835
Daily
FD3074
1635
1825
Daily
KRABI - CHIANG MAI FD3071
0910
1105
Daily
FD3075
1910
2105
Daily
CHIANG MAI - SURATTHANI FD5422
0710
0905
Daily
FD5420
1305
1455
Daily
SURATTHANI - CHIANG MAI FD5423
0935
1135
Daily
FD5421
1525
1715
Daily
For Reservations: Tel. (053) 922 170 www.airasia.com
THAI LION AIR CHIANG MAI TO BANGKOK (Don
CHIANG MAI TO BANGKOK
Muang International Airport)
(สุวรรณภูมิ)
SL525
0650
SILK AIR
THAI SMILE
0805
Daily
WE177
0640
0800
CHIANG MAI - SINGAPORE Daily
SL523
0945
1100
Daily
WE159
1040
1150
Daily
SL507
1055
1210
Daily
WE161
1255
1410
Daily
SL511
1400
1510
Daily
WE169
1545
1700
Daily
SL513
1500
1625
Daily
WE165
1710
1825
Daily
WE167
2145
2310
Daily
SL517
1845
2005
Daily
SL519
2045
2200
Daily
BANGKOK (Don Muang International Airport) TO CHIANG MAI
BANGKOK(สุวรรณภูมิ) TO CHIANG MAI WE 168
0700
0820
WE158
0845
0955
Daily
WE 160
1055
1215
Daily
SL506
0855
1010
Daily
SL508
1035
1210
Daily
SL510
1115
1235
Daily
SL512
1300
1415
Daily
SL514
1530
1655
Daily
SL516
1650
1800
Daily
CHIANG MAI - PHUKET
SL518
1845
1955
Daily
WE171
SL522
2110
2225
Daily
SL524
2225
2355
Daily
Thai Lionair Call Center: 89/46 Vibhavadi Rangsit Road., Sanambin Sub-District, Don Muang District, Bangkok 10210. Tel. 02-142-9988, 02-529-9999 www.lionairthai.com
Daily
WE 164
1520
1635
Daily
WE 166
1955
2110
Daily
WE 176
2215
2330
Daily
0940
1135
1235
1435
1800
2205
Mo/Su
1120
1545
We/Th/Fr
SINGAPORE - CHIANG MAI MI706
1515
1710
MI708
1655
1900
Su Tu
MI702
0825
1035
Th/Fr/Sa
132 Central Duangtawan Hotel, Loykroh Rd.,T. Changklan Tel. (053) 904 985-7 Fax: (053) 904 988 www.silkair.com
LAO AIRLINES CHIANG MAI - LUANG PRABANG
Daily
QV 636
1530
1630
Mo/We/Fr/Su
LUANG PRABANG - CHIANG MAI
PHUKET - CHIANG MAI WE272
MI707 MI701
Daily
Chiang Mai International Airport, A. Muang, Chiang Mai 50000. Tel. (02) 118 8888 www. thaismileair.com
QV 635
1350
1450
Mo/We/Fr/Su
Lao AIRLINES Office: Nakorn Ping Condo 1st Fl., 2/107 Ratchapluek Rd., T.Chang Puak, A. Muang, Chiangmai 50300Tel. (053) 223 401 Fax: (053) 223 400. E-mail: <qvcnx@loxinfo.co.th> www.laoairlines.com
63
KOREAN AIR
2359
0715+ 1
Sun/Wed/ Thu/Sat
SEOUL - CHIANG MAI KE 667
1910
DRAGONAIR
CHIANG MAI - YANGON
CHIANG MAI - SEOUL KE 668
AIR BAGAN
2250
Sun/Wed/
W9 608
1720
1810
CHIANG MAI - HONG KONG Sun/Tue/Thu
YANGON - CHIANG MAI W9 607
1420
1610
Tue/Thu/Sun
MU2594
1755
2025
Daily
MU2596
1850
2120
Daily
KUNMING - CHIANG MAI 1600
1635
Daily
MU2595
1640
1715
Daily
more information: Tel. (02) 636 6980, (02) 134 2101 www.flychinaeastern.com
HONGKONG EXPRESS
UO754
1930
2315
1820
2210
Sat/Sun/
KA232
0800
0950
Fri
KA232
1520
1720
Sat/Sun/ Mon/Wed/Thu
*AVAILABLE ON THE WEBSITE Manit Transport Co., Ltd (GSA), 143 Rajchawong Rd., T. Changmoi, A. Muang, Chiang Mai 50300 Tel. (053) 252 988 Fax. (053) 251 417 www.dragonair.com
Mo/Tu/
UO753
1650
1845
Th/Fr/Sa/Su
MORE INFORMATION: Tel. (02) 634 2552 GSA: AVS Express Co., Ltd., Email: sasatron.i@waa.co.th www.hkexpress.com
Consulate of France (Alliance Francaise)
in Chiang Mai
138 Charoen Prathet Rd. Tel. (053) 275 277, http://afthailande.org /en/chiang-mai-branch/
领事馆 Consulate of Australia 236 Chiang Mai - Doi Saket Rd., Sansai district Tel. (053) 492 426 Consulate of Austria 15 M.1 Huay Kaew Rd. Tel. (053) 400 231 Consulate of Canada 151 Superhighway Chiang Mai – Lampang Rd., T. Tasala Tel. (053) 840 147
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KA233
We/Th/Fr/Sa/Su
Consulates
104-112 Tha Pae Rd. Tel. (053) 234 777
Tue
HONG KONG - CHIANG MAI
MU2593
Consulate of Finland
Fri
1925
CHIANG MAI - HONG KONG
CHIANG MAI - KUNMING
111 Chang Lo Rd., T.Haiya Tel. (053) 274 614, http://chiangmai.chineseconsulate.org
1500
1540
HONG KONG - CHIANG MAI more information: Tel. (053) 284 985-6, (083) 178 7771 Fax. (053) 284 986 www.airbagan.com
CHINA EASTERN AIRLINES
Consulate General of China
1110
KA233
Mon/Wed/Thu
Thu/Sat
Reservation and more information: Tel. (053) 922 556, (053) 922 557, (02) 635 0465 www.koreanair.com
KA233
Consulate of Germany 199/163 Ban Nai Fun 2, Canal Rd. Tel: 053-838735 Consulate of India 33/1 Thung Hotel Rd., T. Wat Ket Tel. (053) 247 879, www.indianembassy.in.th
**airlines’ schedules are sometimes changed at short notice. Please call the phone to check the confirmed schedules.
Consulate of Peru 362/30 Charoenrat Rd. Usa Faham Village Tel. (053) 306 358 Consulate of the Philippines 176 M.3 San Phranet, Sansai Tel. (053) 351 278 Consulate of Portugal 88/58 Supalai Moda San Phi Suea Tel. (053) 106 147 Consulate of South Korea
Consulate of Italy
V-Group Building, Floor 3, |Huay Kaew Rd. Tel. (053) 223 119-23 ext. 204
101/136 Intawarorot Rd. Tel. (053) 212 925
Consulate of Sweden
Consulate General of Japan Room No.104-107 Airport Business Park, 90 Mahidol Rd. Tel. (053) 203 373, www.chiangmai.th.emb-japan.go.jp Consulate General of Myanmar 9/4 Maneenopparat Soi 3 T. Sriphum, Muang district Tel. (053) 216 191
186/84 Green Valley, Moo 5, Mae Rim district Tel. (053) 298 632 Consulate of Switzerland 153 Sridonchai Rd., T. Chang Klan Tel. (053) 283 900 Consulate General of the United States 387 Wtchayanon Rd., T. Chang Moi Tel. (053) 252 633, http://chiangmai. usconsulate.gov
BUS
CHIANG MAI ARCADE BUS STATION
WWW.GREENBUSTHAILAND.COM (053) 242 664
DESTINATION
DEPARTURE TIME
DURATION
ROUTE
TO BANGKOK Air-Conditioned Bus (X-Class) 10:30 10 hrs. More options for transport bus (Chiang Mai-Bangkok), please call 053-242 664 TO CHIANG RAI Air-Conditioned Bus (VIP) (V-Class) 8:15 / 10:15 3 hrs. *12:30 / 14:45 / (Fri, Sun) 17:15 / 18:00 (Fri, Sun) 18:30 / (Fri, Sun) 19:00 Air-Conditioned Bus (X-Class) (Sun-Fri) 7:00 / *7:45 / 9:00 3 hrs. (Sat) 09:30/ 10:30/ 11:00/ *12:15 13:15/ 15:00/ (Fri,Sun) 16:00/ (Mon-Thu,Sat)17:00/ (Fri,Sun) 18:30/ (Fri,Sun) 19:00 TO MAE SAI Air-Conditioned Bus (VIP) (V&X Class) (Mon) 05:15/ (Sat) 07:00/ 8:00/ 4 hrs. (Sun-Fri) 09:30/ (Fri,Sun) 16:30 Air-Conditioned Bus (A Class) 6:00/ (Mon-Thu,Sat)16:15/ (Fri,Sun)17:00 4 hrs. TO CHIANG KONG (Duration time 4 hrs. Route 671) Air-Conditioned Bus (VIP) (V&X Class) 8:00 8 hrs. Air-Conditioned Bus (X-Class) 9.30/14:30 8 hrs.
CHIANGPUAK BUS STATION BUSES FROM CHIANG MAI - SURROUNDING DISTRICTS DESTINATION FANG CHIANG DAO - FANG - MAE RIM - MAE TAENG - ELEPHANT CAMP - CHIANG DAO OM KOY MAE AI - THATON PEANGLOUNG WIENG HANG HOD DOI TAO SAN KHAMPAENG PRAO SAMOENG BAN WATCHAN LAMPHUN PAI MAE HONG SORN
DEPARTURE TIME
CHIANG MAI RAILWAY STATION:
27 CHAROEN MUANG RD., A. MUANG,
CHIANG MAI. (053) 244 795
CHIANG MAI- BANGKOK Express 102 Special Express 8 Express 52 Special Express 14 Special Express 2
06.30 08.50 15.30 17.00 18.00
BANGKOK- CHIANG MAI BANGKOKâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S PRINCIPAL RAILWAY STATION; (02) 621 8701
DURATION
3 hrs. 3 hrs. 20 mins. 30 mins. 50 mins. 1 hr. N: 07:50, 13:30 4 hrs. N: 05:30,07:20, 09:00,10:30,11:30,13:30, 15:30 4 hrs. Minibus: 7:30,10:30,13:30, 15:30 3 hrs. N: 08:30,12:30 6 hrs. N: 05:00 - 17:30 (every 20 mins.) 2 hrs. N: 04:30, 05:30, 08:30, 10:30, 12:30, 14:30, 15:30, 18:00 3 hrs. 7.00-21.00 (every 10 minutes) 30 mins. 8.15-16.15 (every 30 minutes) 2 hrs. 9.00-16.00 (every 30 minutes) 40 mins. 9.00 & 11.00 6 hrs. 8.00-16.00 1 hrs. 6.30-17.30 (every 1 hour) 3 hrs. 7.00 5 hrs. 6.30-14.30 (every 30 minutes) 6 hrs. 7.00 8 hrs.
DP.
Special Express 7 Express 109 Special Express 1 Special Express 13 Express 51
08.30 13.45 18.10 19.35 22.00
AR.
3rdFARE
2nd FARE
21.10 19.25 05.25 06.15 06.50
231
391
19.30 04.05 07.15 08.40 12.10
166
166
619 619 170 170
(053) 211 586
Minibus: 07:30-16:30 (every 1 hr.) 5.30 -19.30 (every 30 minutes) 6.00-18.00 (every 10 minutes) 5.30-20.00 (every 10 minutes)
TRAIN
18
2nd FARE (Aircon)
BUS Minibus Orange
Blue Orange Red Blue White Red Yellow Yellow Blue-White VAN Bus VAN Bus
2nd FARE
2nd FARE
(Sleeper)
(Sleeper/Aircon)
531/581
751/821
1stFARE
(Sleeper/Aircon)
641 271
541
601/671
791/881 1,253/1,453 791/881 1,253/1,453
641 231
271
391
491/541
541
531/581
791/881
1,253/1,453
791/881
1,253/1,453
751/821
STATE RAILWAY OF THAILAND CALL CENTRE 1690 (24 HRS.) 65
index A
I
Aroon Rai Restaurant
14
Is Wheels
Asean Design & Business Center 18 AUA
25
19
15
Buri Siri Hotel
21
C Chilli Antiques & Arts
8
CLBS
Jolie Femme
Le Crystal
12
9 D
Deck1
13
M Mengrai Kilns
15
Mont Blanc Garden
15
27
Crab Club
Sukantara Resort
19
T
L
Baan Celadon
25
J
B
The Dukeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Restaurant
4
The River Market
5
Tiger Kingdom
27
Toyota Sure
12
T.Y.L Corporation
14
N Nara Tour
V 63
Veerachai Court
15
P Back Cover
E Elephant Poo Poo Paper Park
27
P. Collection
29
Pioneer Cargo
25
Punna Residence
F 11
G Good View
13
H Huay Kaew Residence
14
7
Rice Barge Boat Trip
25
S 29 6
Siam Celadon
7
Important Phone Numbers Emergency 191 Tourist Police 1155 Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) 1672 TAT Chiang Mai (053) 248 604-5 Highway Police 1193 Customs Office (053) 277 510 Immigration Bureau 1178 or (053) 201 755-6 Chiang Mai Police Station (053)242 2234 Bhuping Police Station (053) 211 750 Maharaj Nakorn Ping Hospital (Suan Dok) (053) 947 700
25
X-Centre 3
Y
Shiraz Jewelry
A NUMBERS GAME
Walen International School
X
Raming Tea House
Shinawatra Thai Silk
W
Inside Front
R
Fah Lanna Spa
66
Spotlight Bar
Yaang Come Village
Department Stores and Shopping Outlets Central Kad Suan Kaew Plaza Huay Kaew Rd. CentralFestival Chiang Mai (Superhighway Juvenile Court Intersection) CentralPlaza Chiang Mai Airport (close to Chiang Mai International Airport) Maya Lifestyle Shopping Mall (Rincome Intersection, near Nimmanhaemin Rd.) Big C Extra (Superhighway Rd.) Tesco Lotus (Superhighway Rd.)
67