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in Brief
44 Thai Recipes
Authentic Thai dishes you can cook at home
46 Chinese Story Introduction to the
recipes that appeared in Rak Nakara, a popular Thai drama
50 Great Finds
18 Calendar
Restaurants, cafés, accommodations and products for townsfolk and tourists alike
22 Local Talk
56 San Kamphaeng and the City
14 Things to Know
Useful tips for roaming around Chiang Mai
What’s going on around town An inspiring interview with KOJI MIYAOKA, Executive Advisor and Brand Manager of Japan Village
32 Live Like a Local: 48 Hours in Chiang Mai A guide to live like a native
Chiang Mai person – a khon meuang – for a couple of days
From the cover
2-day,1-night trip taking in the serene countryside of Mae Kampong, and finishing at Wat Kate
62 Transport
Bus / Train / Airline Schedules
66 Index
关注本杂志微博、微信公众号 最新美食旅游资讯天天送
A naga-shaped finial frames the gable of Wat Puak Taem which is known locally for being a centre of arts and education.
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Design
Location: Wat Puak Taem
ติดตาม วิหบอ วิแช๊ก ของเราทุกวัน จะได้รับข้อความเกี่ยวกับอาหาร และการท่องเที่ยวท้องถิ่น 10
Publisher Supap Pluempreedee Managing Director Sawasdi Posolee General Manager Pitcharee Wanta Editor in Chief Saenmuang Editorial Consultant Colin McLean Editorial Staff Samart Suwannarat Israwan Pothipun Khanidtha Aounfour Chinese Consultant Xiaojuan Li Translator Pattaraporn Wiwattanakarn Art Director Sangworn Hochaisiwanon Graphic Designers Sirada Mongkonphan Supaporn Norsine Vijittra Chaisri Chief Photographer Karin Mongkonphan Photographer Peerapol Khamlapis Advertising Director Maneerat Bond Area Manager Warapong Matiang Sales Executives Somruethai Ramasuth Watcharaporn Malipatin Advertising Coordinators Jina Y. Srinuan Aunthachai Accountants Yuparet Kasing Mayuree Tipjai
S.P. Publishing Group Co.,Ltd. 191/22-23 Chiang Mai - Hod Rd., T. Mae Hea, A. Muang, Chiang Mai 50100. Tel. (053) 328 812-3 Fax: (053) 328 814
E-mail: guidelinecm@hotmail.com info@guidelineschiangmai.com
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Mass Transit Services
WELCOME Oh, how time flies! In the blink of an eye, we’ve reached the end of another year. December is a month for celebration, for vacations and for joy. For those visiting our fair city, we can guarantee that Chiang Mai will deliver on its promise of magic. The weather is cool but sunny; the mountains are lush and full of life; and everyone is ready to celebrate the New Year. The highlights for this month are the trekking, cycling and exploring opportunities no more than an hour or two from the city. Try Thailand’s highest peak, Doi Inthanon (2,565m), where you might even find some morning frost on the ground. Or how about an overnight hike to the top of Doi Luang Chiang Dao mountain? It’s a great time of year to get outdoors and enjoy nature by bicycle too, even if it’s just wandering around the temples and backstreets of Chiang Mai Old Town. And check out our information on all the superb cafes and restaurants in town (also look for Gindee Gourmet Guide 2018 at bookshops). Whatever you do, have a wonderful time in Chiang Mai!
Airport taxi to anywhere downtown is 150 baht. For rides outside the ‘metropolis’: 50 baht as soon as you get in the cab, then 50 baht for the first two kilometres, and 10 baht per km thereafter. If you want to go somewhere outside the city, you will have to check the chart at the airport taxi counters (it’s usually 180 to 350 baht). 14
Airport Shuttle Bus (air-conditioned van) is available at Gate 9. Just 40 baht per person. Route 1: Airport–Central Kad Suan Kaew– Huay Kaew Road – Chiang Mai University; Route 2: Airport– Night Bazaar. Shuttles run 7am–9.30pm Shared red pick-up trucks (known as song-taew) are sometimes waiting at the exits or outside the airport. Price is about 40-60 baht.
There are about 2,000 Red Cabs (pick-ups or song-taew) available throughout the city. Fixed Route Red Cabs: From 15 baht. Check all five routes on mobile application: CMTRANSIT (available both IOS and Android gadgets) White Cabs (No.12) available in Chiang Mai downtown only. Price is 15 baht. Purple-White Cabs run Chiang Mai– Lamphun (base station is Warorot Market). Price is 12–40 baht. Call (083) 325 4965. Blue Cabs run Chiang Mai– Doi Tao district (base station is Warorot Market). Price is 15–40 baht. Orange Cabs run Chiang Mai–Fang (base station is Chang Puak Bus Station). Price is 15–40 baht. Yellow Cabs cover three routes: Chiang Mai– Mae Rim; Chiang Mai– Doi Saket; and Chiang Mai– Chom Thong. Mae Rim and Doi Saket cabs start at Warorot Market while Chom Thong cabs run from Chang Puak Bus Station and Wua Lai Road (Chiang Mai Gate). White Cabs cover two routes: Chiang Mai– Mae Taeng (base stations: Chang Puak Bus Station, Warorot Market); and Chiang Mai– San Kamphaeng district (base station: Warorot Market). Green Cabs run Chiang Mai– Sansai (base station: Warorot Market).
Telephone Numbers
Chang Puak Bus Station Arcade Bus Station Chiang Mai Railway Station
(053) 211 586 (053) 241 449 (053) 244 795
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CALENDAR Now–24 Dec
Art Exhibition: Intersection The latest exhibition at Gallery Seescape is presented by Phattharakorn (Natthawut) Sing-Thong, and is titled Intersection. Phattharakorn’s interpretation of life examines the existence of concrete within an ever-changing environment. His representations of still life paintings by Dutch and Flemish masters from the 17th century are reproduced through drawing combined with abstract figure painting with spontaneous gestures. For more information: facebook. com/galleryseescape
24th, 25th and 31st Dec The last week of December is a great time for parties and celebrations. There are plenty of hotels and restaurants in Chiang Mai that will create a lavish feast for you and a night to remember.
Aykra Manor Hotel Christmas Eve Charity Dinner, THB 1,800 per person
Duangtawan Hotel Christmas Eve Dinner, THB 890 net
Now–14 Dec
The Forest in Water Color If you are planning a visit to Chiang Rai, make sure you cut a detour towards ArtBridgeChiangRai, where there’s a watercolour exhibition on display by noted artist P.E. Seenam. He says he draws inspiration from nature, especially streams and forests. Check it out.
Dusit Princess Chiang Mai Classical Christmas Eve Dinner Buffet, THB 1,900 net
RatiLanna Riverside Spa Resort Christmas Eve’s Dinner, THB 2,999 net
Grandview Hotel Christmas Eve Dinner, THB 699 net
Imperial Mae Ping Christmas Eve, 5-course Christmas lunch or dinner, THB 950 net
Le Crystal Christmas Eve, 5-course set dinner, THB 3,000 net
2–18 Dec
New Fashion Exhibition @ MAIIAM During Chiang Mai Design Week 2017, MAIIAM Contemporary Art Museum is hosting the Shone Puipia: Antwerp 2012–2016 exhibition. View the works of Shone Puipia, an emerging and promising Thai fashion designer. A launch will be held with the artist on 9 December, but the exhibition is open to the public from the second of the month.
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Shangri-La Hotel Christmas Eve, starting from THB 2,888 net
Le Meridien Family Christmas Wonderland, THB 2,499 net
dusitD2 Modish Christmas Eve’s Dinner, THB 2,200 net
Eve Party Le Meridien Casino Royale New Year Gala Dinner, from THB 300-5,999 net
The Pavilion
Duangtawan Wonderland Gala Night, THB 2,950 net
RatiLanna Riverside Spa Resort Havana Night Party, THB 5,900 net
Hard Rock Café
New Year’s Countdown
Akyra Manor Hotel New Year’s Eve, Italics Jazz Night, Gala Dinner, THB 4,500 net
Le Crystal,
New Year’s Eve, 6-course set dinner, THB 3,800 net
Shangri-La Hotel
Moulin Rouge New Year’s Gala Dinner, THB 3,000 net
dusitD2
and Dinner
The Season of Magic New Year’s Eve Gala Dinner, THB 3,700 net
Duangtawan Hotel
Bohemian Inspired New Year’s Eve, THB 3,500 net
Christmas Day Brunch,THB 590 net
Favola
Christmas Brunch, THB 2,799 net
Grandview Hotel
Christmas Day Lunch, THB 599 net
Dusit Princess
Imperial Mae Ping
Relive the Magic: A Night at Studio 54 Food – Music – Fun, THB 3,500
Le Crystal
Christmas Day Lunch 4-course set menu, THB 3,000 net
Imperial Mae Ping
Christmas Day, 5-course Christmas lunch or dinner, THB 950 net
Shangri-La Hotel
Christmas Day, Chiang Mai, THB 1,388 net
Le Crystal
New Year’s Day, a 5-course set dinner, THB 3,000 net
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Local talk KOJI MIYAOKA
Executive Advisor and Brand Manager of Japan Village
I work as an interior designer and consultant for the Japan Village Project. I also have my own company in Osaka and have travelled between Japan and Chiang Mai quite often over the past two years. In my opinion, Chiang Mai is a very cool and cozy city. I like its atmosphere very much, especially the charming Old Town area which is quite similar to Kyoto. “If I were recommending an itinerary to friends who were coming to Chiang Mai, I would tell them to spend time in the Old Town visiting the beautiful Buddhist temples and walking around the moat. I am especially entranced by the small backstreet temples where you can watch the locals making merit. I’m sure my friends would be impressed by the beauty and simplicity. “For restaurants and bars in Chiang Mai, I’d like to suggest Kitchen Hush, Café de Nimman and Drinksmith. Their meals and atmosphere are so good.
小路宫冈 先生 Japan Village 执行顾问/品牌经理 我本人比较擅长室内设计，目前是Japan Village 这个项目的执行顾问， 在此之前我有自己的公司在大阪，所以两年多来也是大阪清迈两边来回工作。 在我看来，清迈是一座非常清新可人的小城，我喜欢这种感觉，尤其是还有这 么悠久的历史古城，从文化上来说，和京都很像。如果有新朋友来清迈，我自 然会先带大家去清迈古城，特别是越往小巷子里走，越能发现清迈的与众不同 之处，这不是随口就能形容出来的亲切。当你走进那些很小的寺庙，一定会为 清迈人虔诚的信仰感到惊奇。再想到清迈琳琅满目的美食，简直又是一番新世 界，有日本的精致料理店Kicthen Hush，清新惬意的 Café de Nimman 自然 咖啡馆和 Drinksmith 鸡尾酒馆等多家精品餐饮，你一定要去尝一尝！
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48 HOURS
in Chiang Mai
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The more you travel the world, the more wonderful things you discover. You find that you can relate to foreign communities and you learn to better appreciate different cultures, languages, cuisine and beliefs. Perhaps the best way to experience a new city or country is to get as close as possible to the local people. Guidelines Travel would like to invite you to live like a native Chiang Mai person – a khon meuang – for a couple of days. We hope you have some fascinating experiences to take with you on your travels.
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DAY 1
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Morning Kad – More than just a Fresh Market Shopping at the morning market (in northern Thai, we say kad) is a very important activity in Thailand. It is a colourful and vibrant scene, endlessly photogenic, where you can barter and buy your daily needs, whether it be toiletries, fresh tropical fruit, a cooked breakfast, flowers or some herbs and spices. You can also find some delicious local dishes to try, such as sticky rice (khao niaow), Chiang Mai sausage (sai ou-a), chili paste (nam prik), Thai vermicelli soup (nam ngiew) and the local favourite curry kow soy. Sometimes a bowl of morning noodles will cost as little as 10 baht. Recommended marketplaces include: Kad Chang Phuak; Kad Somphet; Kad Pratoo Chiang Mai; and Kad Luang.
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Lanna Folklife Museum
Cycling with a Parasol Wat Phra Singh Temple
Did you know that the old town of Chiang Mai is quite small? It’s only 3.2 square kilometers within the moat – that’s ideal for a leisurely cycle or a walk. If you hire a bike it’ll not cost much more than 100 baht for the day. Just ask at your hotel; they’ll point you in the right direction. But wear a helmet, ask for a lock and chain, and cycle carefully! (Traffic in this city might be much more erratic and fast than you’re used to) Many locals, especially ladies, would traditionally hold a parasol to shelter themselves from the sun and rain while cycling. You can try this too if you are confident riding with one hand.
Time Machine As the sun reaches its zenith for the day, it may be time to retreat indoors to the lovely cool corridors of Chiang Mai City Arts and Cultural Centre or Lanna Folklife Museum, both of which have compelling exhibits telling the history of Chiang Mai (Did you know that the city was abandoned and left to tigers and jungle vines for 15 years in the 18th century?) You can locate these museums, as well as Chiang Mai Historical Centre, which has a display of old black n’ white photography, at Three Kings Monument in the very center of the Old Town. The entrance fee for each museum is 90 baht; you can get a ticket for all three for 180 baht.
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Wat Inthakin
Coffee Time Take a stroll or cycle from Thapae Gate to Wat Phra Singh temple – from one side of Ratchadamnern Road to the other – and you’ll pass a dozen coffee shops. Some you’ll recognise, like Starbucks and Black Canyon, but today let’s try some lovely aromatic Northern Thai Arabica. Look for local café outlets Akha Akha and Pacamara: delicious coffees that are recognised as ‘fair trade’ or for ethical practices. Take a few minutes to savour your cuppa and relax.
Go with the Flow
The Belly Button of the City Next to the museums and adjacent to the plaza with the Three Kings statue is Intrawarorot Road, where you can find a wholesome but cheap lunch. Ready for some noodles? Maybe try some yong tau-foo or Hainanese chicken with rice or some satay chicken. This area is known as the Navel of the City (sa due muang) because the neighbourhood temple, Wat Inthakin, was where the city pillar was originally placed in 1296 AD. When you’ve finished your meal, pay a quick visit to the White Buddha at Wat Sa Due Muang temple, a popular spot for locals to pray and make Buddhist offerings.
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In the afternoon, head to the Ping River. You can get there by bike, walk or take a rickshaw. If you aim for Iron Bridge you’ll probably see some locals fishing. Nearby, some women wash clothes in the river while children play and do somersaults. It’s all part of river life. Another excellent way to see the river is by taking a scorpion-tailed boat trip on the Ping. It takes about two hours. Check online for times and prices.
Getting Sleepy? Well, you’ve no doubt got a guest house or hotel fixed up already, but let’s just say you are wondering around looking for somewhere to bed down for the night. There are literally hundreds of options in the Old Town. Check out Airbnb for some authentic local houses or try a homestay where you can spend some quality time with a Thai family.
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DAY 2
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Being Buddhist means Making Merit Whether or not you are a Theravada Buddhist, you will always be welcome at a temple in Chiang Mai provided you are quietly respectful and not under-dressed. The key is getting up early, before dawn if possible, and going to your local morning market to buy some fresh food to offer to the monks. Rice and curry is always a safe bet; vegetarian offerings are appropriate, perhaps some jasmine flowers too. Then walk or take a rickshaw to the nearest temple and observe what other devotees do. Join the line, wai to the monks, and offer your bowl of food with both hands. Nothing to it? Take a bow, you are now on the road to spiritual redemption.
Spa & Thai Traditional Massage You may already be aware that Thai massage is famous around the world, but did you know that Chiang Mai is renowned for its selection of international-class spas? Combining local wisdom, herbs, balms, and a charming local culture, Thai traditional massage is a fortifying but relaxing experience, and one that many local people enjoy at least once a week. You can choose from the cheap but effective massage-on-a-mat practice that you’ll find at temples and on street corners to a full day’s pampering at one of our award-winning spas. For a novel experience, try Lee La Thai, where the masseuses are women prisoners!
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Meditation and Evening Chanting
Oodles of Noodles Noodles are to Thais what fish n’ chips might be to the Brits: a comfort food that’s also part of the staple diet. You will see noodle shops and stalls on every street of this city, so you never have to venture far. And what’s more, they’re delicious. If you haven’t sampled khao soy yet, now’s your chance. It’s a fabulous Northern Thai-Burmese recipe of egg noodles, chicken, shallots, chillis and lime served in a coconut curry soup. You’ll love it! Thais will often order noodle soup for lunch. It may be served at an outdoors street vendor, but there will always be a set of condiments on the table which you can add to the broth. Choose from vinegar, chilli powder, sugar and fish sauce to suit your palate.
Suan Buak Had If you want to see how Chiang Mai folks keep fit and trim, head to Suan Buak Hat, the park in the southwestern corner of the moat. This a serene oasis in the city center, full of plant life, palm trees and lakes, but is best known as a hub for sports and exercise. Many people come here for jogging; others practice tai-chi or muay thai boxing. There are exercise machines and concrete courts where teams play basketball, soccer and takraw, the kick-volleyball sport popular in Southeast Asia. The park is free of charge and a tranquil spot for a picnic or reading a book. Another free option is Municipal Stadium, which is where many local athletes train. You can run around the 400m track, lift weights or perhaps join in a game of basketball, football, volleyball or badminton. And it’s open until 10pm. 38
Ohm, mani, padme, hum! That’s the mantra the outside world knows when it thinks of Buddhist meditation. But is that really what they do? Find out for yourself with a visit to one of the Chiang Mai temples that teaches vipassana meditation. Once you have mastered this technique it will stay with you for life. But be warned, meditation is a serious practice and requires strong discipline and focus – you don’t do it just for fun. So, if you are determined to gain a ‘third eye’, head out to a temple in the late afternoon; Wat Suan Dok and Wat Rampoeng both offer mediation and dhamma courses for beginners and devotees. Or, if you just want a peaceful spot, find a backstreet temple and sit inside the main hall, close your eyes and let the breath take you. Perhaps Wat Phra Chao Meng Rai or Wat U-Mong Terachan would be good choices for an uninterrupted hour of meditation. Monks often chant at the temples before dusk. Wat U-Mong Terachan is one place where foreign visitors frequently join in.
Late night meal Chiang Mai: been there, done that, got the t-shirt! It’s been a fabulous twoday, one-night stopover and you’ve learned a lot about the city, its people and their culture; but it would not be fitting to leave this culinary hub of brilliance without a sumptuous last-night meal to remember. So, where to begin? Again, we suggest the local markets. Chang Phuak and Chiang Mai gates (the north and south gate markets) are always reliable spots for night-time street food. Fried sukiyaki, stewed pork leg on rice, sticky rice, spicy papaya salad (somtam), grilled pork and beef, Sichuan pepper BBQ, Thai desserts in coconut milk, and roti are just some of the choices at your disposal. Everything is affordable and you’ll love the ambience as people chat over beers while woks sizzle with chillis. Make it a great last night to remember! Pai dee, maa dee! (Go safely and come back again!)
像当地人一样去生活 做48小时的清迈人 当你走过越来越多的地方，你会发现世界越来越小，但里面居然装着 如此丰富多彩的故事。百转千回，故事像电影一样在不断被改编或重演，但 也始终离不开地域文化、美食，以及来自不同地方的文化图腾与信仰。 开启一段全新的旅程，像当地人一样去听、去想、去看、去吃。 本期GUIDELINEStravel《阅游》特别策划，两天一夜，和我们一起像 清迈人一样去生活吧！
第一天
DAY 1
“ KAD”清晨 生鲜早市 KAD在兰纳方言里的意思是“市场”，每天早起到附近的早市 采购食材，这应该是清迈人最重要的日常。准确的说，清迈并不是 一个完全自给自足的城市，和其他大城市的早市比起来，虽然格局 上也差不了多少，但厉害之处就在于有不少蔬菜瓜果是你极少会遇 见的食疗上品。看似不起眼，但却是清迈人的家常菜。清迈人说话 声韵此起彼伏，音调时高时低，不论老人小孩还是青年男女，脸上 都堆满了笑容，到处是叫卖声和打招呼声，非常有趣。除此之外， 早市上的熟食区最诱人，糯米饭、香茅草肉肠、辣椒酱、泰北酸辣 米线和泰北咖喱面等等，这些当地人爱吃的东西在各个摊位整齐摆 放，尚未走到那“美食窝”，就能闻到阵阵飘香。 推荐早市：昌普早市、松佩早市、清迈门早市和瓦洛洛市场
清迈花伞和自行车
清迈仅仅3.2平方公里的古城，真没你想象的那么大。不论是 步行还是骑自行车，轻轻松松就能逛完，尤其是租自行车逛古城既 节省时间又方便，不超过100泰铢/每天的租赁价格，十分环保，又 不会在安静的巷子里噪出太大的声响。如果车技不错的话，可以试 着打把清迈花伞单手骑车。不开玩笑哦，清迈宋干节活动，每年评 选佳丽都会以是否会单手骑车为考核指标。
时光机
第一次遇见清迈古城，我想约你先参观 清迈艺术博物馆。原因很简单，清迈是泰国所 有城市中唯一一处把艺术馆和历史博物馆建在 市中心的城市，把传说中的兰纳文化以老照片 和历史遗留物为依托，代代相传。也许很多人 都不太明白，为何清迈会和泰国其他城市不太 一样，不论是语言还是生活习惯都有所不同， 这和清迈作为兰纳王朝古都有很大关联，那时 的兰纳国土，横跨泰国、老挝、缅甸以及中国 西双版纳。为何如今兰纳人身处各地，但依旧 文化相通，语言相通，情怀相通呢？不妨走进 博物馆看看，答案尽在其中。
清迈的“肚子”
距离艺术博物馆不远处，是一条有名 的“美食街”，整排都是泰国知名小吃，例 如：炒河粉、海鲜粉、泰北咖喱面、鸡油饭和 沙爹肉串、猪腿饭、鲜榨果汁和各种泰国特色 小甜点等等。这条街全国知名，大家相信城市 是人群活动的中心，一个人的中心部位就是 “肚子”，所以一个城市的中心当然得有最好 吃的美食啦。尤其是在泰国，寺庙是一个部落 39
的宗教、文化、经济中心，之所以在这里会有美食街，也 是因为震慑四方保卫清迈的“清迈神柱”——鹰塔秦神柱 供奉于此，理所当然成为清迈的中心腹地。因此，这片区 域也因寺庙“萨德孟寺”而得名萨德孟社区。这么说来， 大家别忘了像当地人一样去拜一拜萨德孟寺的住持龙婆 考，一代高僧，传道解惑，受世人敬仰。
咖啡之城
吃饱了，当然得考虑喝点什么吧！如果你是喜欢咖 啡的人，来清迈古城就对了。古城是清迈咖啡文化的中心 地带，这么小的古城内居然有上百家咖啡馆，并且各家风 格不同，咖啡的品种也不同，喝咖啡的方式方法也各不相 同。不论是古城最东门的星巴克，还是一路上本地小有名 气的阿卡阿妈、Parcamara 都是不容错过的经典。 除此之外，当然得去各个小巷子里寻找有缘的“咖 啡人”，他们有故事，他们有好的咖啡，他们更有与众不 同的艺术灵感。你准备好了吗？带着你的好奇心去看一看 吧！
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悠悠滨河
午后的清迈，太阳已经越过滨河朝着西边的素 贴山奔去，此时正是畅游滨河的好时光。几十年或是 上百年前，这里是通往世界的大门，也只有这里才是 清迈最繁华的商圈。外来商船从滨河逆流而上，各国 商人从这里上岸，大家都看中这块风水宝地。商人们 带来洋货儿，满足了当地人的好奇心，清迈人也逐渐 学会了如何做生意，如何把生活过好。 站在纳瓦拉大桥上，昔日的繁华依稀可见，不 远处的铁桥也在努力的诉说着什么，走在充满多国民 族文化的“瓦阁小道”上，故事宛如真实的幻影一一 再现。乘坐滨河游船，两小时的滨河之旅，看尽清迈 的古往今来。
留宿清迈
最早留宿清迈古城的旅游者是西方背包客，他 们喜欢深入腹地，他们想要和清迈人生活在一起，渐 渐的越来越多的背包客客栈兴起。如今的清迈古城变 得更加多元化，客栈类型丰富，酒店也越来越高端， 店主们想尽设计方案，在建筑风格上以兰纳建筑风格 为主，结合现代建筑特点，既突出酒店的舒适性也更 加注重清迈的文化体验。随便走进一条小巷，至少有 2-3家风格各异的酒店和客栈。建议大家提前在网上预 订酒店或者客栈民宿，尤其是遇到旅游旺季的时候， 家家满房。
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第二天
DAY 2 布施和寺庙朝拜 即便你习惯了自然醒，我也劝你一定要选在“佛日” 这天早起。去距离酒店最近的早市，你会看到布施的民众自 发准备好食材，供养过路的僧侣，你也可以买一束花布施， 或者带着贡品前往寺庙布施。这不是表演，更不是为游客准 备的拍照礼物，这是清迈人最普通的生活。在早市上吃点早 餐，沿着小巷出发，你会看到不少居民家门口都会摆着一袋 袋食物，那是准备布施的贡品。如果你不是佛教徒，切莫强 求，静心参观也是一种难得的体验。
SPA 水疗& 泰式按摩 你可能已经了解了泰式按摩，也听说过泰国SPA水疗。 作为泰国北部地区气候宜人的清迈，哪能浪费了这得天独厚 的SPA条件，特别是结合泰北山区草药，不论是泰式按摩还是 精品SPA水疗的治疗功效都更加丰富和神奇。也许有人会觉得 清迈的按摩力道不足，但添加了草药配方的按摩油是让治疗 功效持久及延后的最大保证，所以根本不需要太强劲的力 道，就能达到舒缓功效，同时充分展现了兰纳温文尔雅的淑 女气质。清迈每年都有多家SPA馆荣获业界好评及荣誉奖项， 尤其是近年来深受中国游客喜爱的丽拉泰式按摩，不仅促进 清迈旅游产业发展，同时还解决了众多女子服刑人员刑满释 放再就业的问题。
亚洲美食——米粉 食用米粉米线类美食，是东南亚饮食特色之一，仅仅 在清迈就有多家米粉店，并且家家都有自己独特的秘方。除 了源自东南亚闯海人的潮汕米粉，还有来自泰北山区以及缅 甸掸邦人的酸辣米线、泰北咖喱面等等，价格从40泰铢到几 百泰铢不等，不同的食材分配决定价格，尤其是海鲜居多的 就贵点儿。尤其是在清迈门市场和龙眼达叻市场的多家老字 号炖猪肉汤、炖牛肉汤和烤鸭面。事实证明，只有时间能给 一切美食的美味长久打分。
博汉公园和清迈体育场 想要像清迈人一样生活，至少得先加入他们的活动 吧！近几年来，清迈人也越发注重身体锻炼和选择食用有机 蔬菜。细心的朋友会发现，清迈人很少会在马路上走路锻 炼，至少都会去附近的健身园、公园，或者空旷的场地，这 点可能和西方生活习惯比较像吧。 古城西南角的博汉公园，是古城区域最大的公园，也 是清迈第一处公共公园。每天清晨有来自各个地方的老年人 再此健身打太极，晨跑锻炼的非常多，每周特定的时段会有
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各项特殊项目运动爱好者前来聚会切磋。下午，公园的草 皮上三三两两的游客和泰国人会来郊游乘凉喂鸽子，傍晚 是运动者最多的时候，每天都有足球和藤球训练。其次是 清迈市体育场，有50多年的历史，相对比较成规模的专业 运动基地，设有篮球场、排球场和足球场，适合比较专业 的体育爱好者。
静心禅修 很多人误以为只有佛教徒才进寺院静禅修，其实在 医学上早有研究指出，采用特定姿势，结合特定的环境保 持内心的平和与安定，能舒缓身心以达到修身养性颐养身 心之功效。清迈大部分寺庙都及其清幽怡人，如果时间宽 裕，不妨去参加 Meditation 禅修课程。佛教徒或者是对佛 教感兴趣的人，可以选择松达寺和兰奔寺的佛教禅课程， 如果不是佛教徒，但对静心感兴趣的也可以去悟孟寺和素 贴山路上的帕拉寺，也能体验到适合静心的环境。假如不 愿意远离市区，清迈任何一座寺院，都欢迎愿意花时间来 菩提树下打坐精心的朋友。
深夜食堂 两天一夜的清迈古城之旅似乎已经接近尾声，美好 的旅程自然需要完美的食材来画上句点。去哪儿呢？每天 夜里，就算世界都安静了，清迈的街边小吃摊依旧人满为 患，不论是外国游客还是泰国游客都对这色香味俱全的美 食情有独钟。人人都是嘴上吃着，手里拿着，空下一只手 还要去品尝朋友购买的美食，目光也不闲着，360度环绕 雷达扫描，发现好奇的美食就马上进攻。米粉、烤海鲜、 猪脚饭、木瓜沙拉、烤肉串和烤鸡，泰国甜点、椰浆膏、 甩饼、炸红薯丸子、布丁、鲜奶以及各种水果，数不尽吃 不完哪！这些美味小吃基本都聚集在昌普门夜市、清迈门 夜市、瓦洛洛夜市、桑巴快夜市和新开的玛尼夜市。
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风味 虾酱拌饭
ะปิย่าง ข้าวคKลluุกk กKapi Yang) (Khao d with RicerMimixpe Paste 能吃 最 Sh 拌饭是
酱 料很 风味虾 食材配 泰国的 美食， 的 ” 拌饭， 风味 起韩国 出“海 让我想 会 尔 种截然 偶 家的两 丰富， 两个国 表 代 但这是 美食。 不同的
食材 （食材以食用人数定量）米饭、虾酱、食用油、鸡 蛋、红蒜头丝、豇豆切段、酸芒果丝、柠檬块、小米辣 碎、油炸香肠片、五花肉、椰子糖、泰国生抽酱油
做法 1.准备热炒锅，食用油少许，先炒虾酱再倒入米饭 翻炒，均匀后盛出备用。 2.煎薄鸡蛋饼，出锅后切丝备用。 3.制作甜猪肉酱，五花肉切小块，备煮锅待清水烧 开后放入五花肉清煮，放入少许泰国生抽酱油调色，五 花肉快熟的时候加入椰子糖，煮出略微黏稠感的汤汁即 可出锅备用。 4.用小碗盛虾酱饭装盘，其次把鸡蛋饼丝、红蒜头 丝、豇豆丝、油炸香肠、甜猪肉酱和柠檬块、小米辣碎 等配菜依次在饭盘子里摆放整齐即可上桌。 5.食用前把全部配菜和饭拌匀，依个人喜好适量添 加辣椒和柠檬酸汁。 44
小妙招：香肠品种接近中国广式甜肠口味，切勿放太 多酱油，或者可以选用少许老抽着色。
Rich Garden house homemade Bakery & Café 豪庭花园家庭烘焙&咖啡 营业时间：10:00am.-7:00pm. 扫描二维码 回复 “风味虾酱拌饭” 【保存制作方法 链接品尝店家及地址】
泰式凉拌 烤鱿鱼
ย่าง ย�ำปPลlaาหMมueึกk Yang) (Yum d quid Sala 滋 S y c i p S i Tha 注重原 丰富，
源 鱼虽说 海产资 色，鱿 泰国的 烹制特 的 菜 的矿物 泰国 有丰富 原味是 ，但含 。 材 食 海 要 产 固醇 衷的重 是高胆 人们热 是 ， 质和碘
食材 新鲜鱿鱼1只、红蒜头7颗、洋葱1颗、生姜丝1汤 匙、香菜1根、小米辣15颗、柠檬2颗、鱼露2-3汤匙、 泰国辣椒酱2汤匙、生菜和芹菜各1颗
做法
FHATARA coffee 梵兰纳咖啡馆 营业时间：8:00am.- 9:00pm. 扫描二维码 回复 “泰式凉拌烤鱿鱼” 【保存制作方法 链接品尝店家及地址】
1.鱿鱼洗净，准备炭火或者烤箱，整条烘烤，烤熟 后切块备用。 2.把准备好的红蒜头、洋葱切丝，小米辣切碎，放 入调料碗中备用。 3.在调料碗中加入鱼露、柠檬汁和辣椒酱，搅拌均 匀。 4.上桌前，把调料汤浇盖入鱿鱼盘里。
小妙招：把切好的鱿鱼块摆出整条鱿鱼的造型， 美味又美观。 45
《 钟爱那卡拉 》 Rak Nakara
泰阮
近期，一部再次搬上电视荧屏的兰纳方言剧 《钟爱那卡拉》，再次成为泰北人热议的话 题。2000年 RAK NAKARA 已经被拍成电视剧，由 Brook/Aum/Noon 领携主演，坊间中文译名《源之 城》。《钟爱那卡拉》是一部于 1997 年完成的文学 作品，源自泰北兰纳王朝时期的真实故事，如今再 次被翻拍成电视剧，由新生代演员Mark/Taew/Mew 领携主演，可见电视剧深入人心之处。2017版的 《钟爱那卡拉》更加注重还原历史、兰纳音乐、兰 纳传统服饰、兰纳建筑在剧中的体现，并且多处拍 摄地点既是历史文物，也是今日旅游观光热推的兰 纳文化宣传景点。以后我们会不断的把这些具有非 常浓厚兰纳文化的旅游景点推荐给大家，本期我们 要来谈谈，那些电视剧中的美食。 在电视剧《钟爱那卡拉》中，我们经常听到 方言发音“召”，强调泰阮人的语音特色。泰阮人 （TaiYuan）也自称为昆勐人（Khun Muang）,目前 大量居住在泰北地区直至靠近中部的素可泰府。但 大家有所不知，古老的昆勐人与缅甸景栋和阿瓦城 掸邦人、老挝佬族人以及云南西双版纳的泰鲁人同 属兰纳国，语言相通、宗教相通、饮食文化相通。 虽然各自都受到后期归属国的文化影响，但原有的 生活习惯和饮食习惯依旧保存至今。 46
族人美食风
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景栋小卷粉 Khao Soi Noi
椰奶凉虾 Lod Chong Nam Kati
景栋小卷粉是大量出现在缅甸景栋的街边美食之一， 掸邦人和泰鲁人的特色美食，景栋小卷粉用米浆蒸煮而成， 看似工序很复杂，但也花不了太多时间，薄薄的米浆蒸煮成 块之后涂上花生酱，放入少许生菜回锅蒸熟透即可出锅。待 小卷粉凉一会儿，用筷头把“米干”挑起卷起取出来即可享 用。
芭蕉叶蒸蛋 Khai Baan
凉粉
Khao Rium Fen
不得不说，凉粉儿是我们中国同胞最熟悉不过的美 食，谁也说不清这源头究竟在哪儿，但南方各地的凉粉各不 相同，再来看看泰北泰阮人的凉粉更是让人惊艳。有米白色 的米凉粉，也有淡黄色的豌豆凉粉，以及微黄的花生凉粉。 以往我们熟知的泰国菜都跑不了满嘴的甜味，但泰北泰阮人 的凉粉却很少有甜味，非常爽口。搭配香菜、大蒜和姜末， 淋上薄薄的一层豌豆汁儿，香味浓郁而不腻口。
泰北酸菜汤
Khan Pak Kad
别看没有大鱼大肉，如果来清迈你没吃过这道菜，还 真不算来过清迈。泰北酸菜汤有多种做法，如果放鸡肉，大 家会用广东菜花做主料，如果是用青菜做主料，大家会用麻 欠（泰式香料）或者放一些烤制的香料，增加汤头的香味， 有的人家还会用干鱼末提香，尤其是加豆豉片增加汤头的浓 厚感，五花八门什么都有。但每种都脱不了酸菜，但这里的 酸菜并不是腌制好的酸菜，而是新鲜食材，少许柠檬汁增加 酸味。按营养学的饮食指导来看，也算是一道健康料理哦。
凉拌生菠萝蜜
Yum Kung
缅甸景栋地区和景栋孟洋镇最常见的甜品之一 （在中国西双版纳也很常见），口味和泰国的有所不 同，味道更加浓郁，但也有泰国传统美食的特点，熬制 的糖水中含有大量椰浆。
细心的你一定会发现，兰纳人经常会用芭蕉叶作 为用的餐餐具和盛放食材的餐具，在现代看来确实很环 保，但在以前确实是因为当时的瓷器餐碗尚未流传至兰 纳国，人们习惯用自然植物盛放食材，但流传至今的饮 食文化，反而成为兰纳美食的文化象征。
烤布 Khao Puk 芝麻烤布目前也是泰北特色美食之一，其实在整 个泰北以及兰纳古国（掸邦人和泰鲁人）的地界都能吃 到这道美食。采用紫糯米熬浆，与芝麻混合均匀，以自 认为合适的大小摊成圆形自然风干，烤布的雏形就做成 了。想吃的时候就拿出来火塘上烘烤至熟即可，最后切 块淋上芝麻甜酱大快朵颐。
烤糯米 Khao Jee 很多时候，新美食的发明和发现往往和生活习惯 有很大的关系，以前的兰纳人都以糯米为主食，扛得住 饥饿的同时也能长时间保存，但每次时间久了，背篓里 的糯米饭就会又冷又干，聪明人总是能想到好办法，大 家尝试用火烤，久而久之，这种方便快捷的加热方式反 而成了人人爱吃的零食。
泰国人家里种菠萝蜜树已经让人很羡慕了，但很少有 人知道他们还吃生菠萝蜜（未成熟的菠萝蜜），并且这是一 道人人称赞的兰纳特色美食。到底是怎样的吃法，叫人心生 好奇，听说营养价值及其丰富！把生菠萝蜜洗干净，切块清 水煮熟，用舂的方法把菠萝蜜舂成黏糊状，再把调料舂细， 入锅翻炒，最后加入菠萝蜜混合翻炒均匀即可。可以直接当 做下饭菜，也可以搭配生菜食用。
酸辣番茄酱
Nuam Prae Bo Kae Som
我们在云南西双版纳吃过版纳人的“番茄喃咪”，名 称的发音和泰国是一样的，但泰北的酸辣番茄酱增加了肉 沫，口感丰富。泰国人用新鲜小番茄水煮去皮，捣碎后加入 香菜大蒜等拌匀，最后放入肉沫，一定要是水汆熟的熟肉 沫。兰纳各地的番茄酱虽然叫法都一样，但因各个地方的气 候及食材特点不同，都会有不同的口感。搭配汆熟的时令蔬 菜和炸猪皮食用，既美味又健康。
糯米香茅草肉肠 Sai Oua Khao Beng 添加了糯米面的兰纳香茅草肉肠，更佳有嚼劲，口感 丰富饱满，肠衣里的猪肉和香料充分融合，虽然外观和一般 的泰国肉肠很相似，但泰阮人的糯米香茅草肉肠更具异国风 味，事实上，大家还是不断的联想起缅甸景栋风味。
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great finds
Duangtawan Hotel 清迈东塔旺酒店 th
Christmas Eve Dinner: Sunday 24
Celebrate Christmas Eve Dinner with a candlelit International Buffet featuring wide selection of international cuisine. Enjoy the highlight of traditional Christmas dinners: Roasted stuffed turkey and Christmas pudding and gifts from Santa! International Buffet Dinner: THB 890 net includes a glass of sparkling wine per adult and THB 450 net includes a cup of hot chocolate or milk shake per child under 12 years old from 6pm to 10.30 pm
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Christmas Day Brunch: Monday 25
Come join us on the dazzling day of Christmas with sumptuous selections of fine cuisine in our International Buffet Brunch featuring Christmas favorite dishes, traditional desserts and a free flow of fresh fruit shake. Price: THB 590 net per adult and THB 290 net per child under 12 years old from 12pm to 2.30 pm
At Marco Polo Restaurant, ground floor. For reservations, please call (053) 905 000 Ext. 3227, (095) 145 0249 平安夜晚餐：12月24日 星期天 平静祥和的烛光夜，伴随着舒缓的音乐和香气四溢的国际美食，共同庆祝平安 之夜。尊享传统圣诞晚宴菜单：烤火鸡、圣诞布丁，还有圣诞老人特别的礼物。自助 圣诞套餐：890THB/每位（成人），包括葡萄酒一杯；450THB/每位（儿童），包括 热巧克力和奶昔。时间：下午6点至夜晚10点30分 圣诞节午餐：12月25日 星期一 欢迎大家加入我们的圣诞节午餐宴会，与各国友人一齐享用国际美食自助餐点， 包括经典圣诞菜肴、传统甜品和新鲜蔬果。价格：590THB/每位（成人），12岁一下 儿童享有儿童价290THB/每位，时间：12点至2点50分
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Le Coq d’Or 法餐厅
Chef Presents
Christmas Dinner Menu & New year 31st December 2017 A wonderful night! On the last day of 2017 welcome the New Year in classic French style with a Gala Dinner on New Year’s Countdown with the finest set menu prepared by our professional chefs. In a romantic setting, sit and enjoy gentle background music played by our musicians. A glass of Champagne is prepared for you as you immerse yourselves in a romantic atmosphere. Give a rousing welcome to 2018 as a spectacular fireworks display fills the sky over the garden. Let us help you send your lanterns into the sky.
Reservations Tel (053) 141 555, (053) 801 501, (089) 888 9339 www.lecoqdorrestaurant.com
厨师的礼物 圣诞节晚宴菜单 & 2017年跨年之夜 一个美好的夜晚！在12月31日，2017年的最后一天，我们即将 相聚 Le Coq d’Or 法餐厅，用最经典的法式菜肴迎来 2018 年新年伊 始。在新年倒数的晚宴上，我们有专业的厨师将会为大家奉上精心准 备的套餐礼物。伴着烂漫烛光和温馨的氛围，让我们共同欣赏音乐家 的演奏，享受香槟酒带来的温暖与幸福。2018年的第一响焰火即将点 燃，大家朝窗外望去，焰火带着大家对新年的美好期许华美绽放。活 动庆祝当晚，将有免费抽奖。
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great finds
Le Crystal Le Crystal 法国菜餐厅 Christmas Eve: 24th December 2017 five course set menu with a complimentary special drink and souvenir to take home THB 3,000 net per person
平安夜：2017年12月24日 平安夜五道菜套餐，赠送特色饮料，精美礼品带 回家。价格 3000 THB/每人
Christmas Day: 25th December 2017 Lunch: A four-course set menu with a complimentary special fruit juice, or soft drinks and souvenir to take home THB 1,800 net per person Dinner: A five course set menu. Roast Christmas Turkey and traditional accompaniment with a complimentary special drink and souvenir to take home. THB 3,000 net per person. Live jazz band with guest singers throughout the night
For more information, please call (053) 218 059, (053) 218 060 52
圣诞节：2017年12月25日 午餐：四道菜套餐，赠送秘制果汁饮品或软饮 料，精美纪念品带回家。价格 1800 THB/每人 晚餐：五道菜套餐，圣诞烤火鸡和秘制果汁饮 品，精美纪念品带回家。价格 3000 THB/每人 现场爵士乐演奏和特别来宾现场献唱。
The River Market 河畔市场餐厅
2018 New Year’s Celebration Join a spectacular event in a private and safe environment for a Traditional Cultural Celebration. Thai Buffet - Open Bar includes House Wine, Beer, Soft Drinks, House Drinks Traditional Thai Entertainment Featuring Western Music Fire Show, Lanterns, Fireworks
2018 年新年庆祝晚宴 伴随着传统兰纳泰式迎新活动，河畔市场餐厅诚邀 各位朋友参加 2018 年新年庆祝晚宴，品尝奢华泰 式自助餐点，在开放式的酒吧享用特色酒水饮料， 喝啤酒，观赏传统泰式庆祝表演以及西方音乐演 奏，其间包含焰火表演、灯笼秀等。 全包票价：成人 3200 THB/每人 儿童 1600 THB/每人
Tickets THB 3,200 for Adults, THB 1,600 for kids. All inclusive.
For more information, please call (053) 234 493
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great finds
RatiLanna Riverside Spa Resort 拉缇兰纳河畔度假村酒店 HAVANA NIGHT PARTY NEW YEAR’s EVE COUNTDOWN 2018
“哈瓦那之夜”狂欢派对 喜迎 2018 新年 新年伊始，喜迎 2018，我们诚挚的邀您来参加我们的 “哈瓦那之夜”新年派对，我们为您准备了最精致的美食、 酒水和果汁饮料，现场音乐伴奏，恭请您和您所爱的人一起 共度良宵。宴会中提供国际自助餐点，包括特色烧烤以及免 费的葡萄酒、啤酒和饮料果汁等。最激动人心的时刻是派对 倒计时和精美礼品派送环节，别忘了我们的派对主题 HAWANA“哈瓦那之夜”，这将是充满欢乐的夜晚，为美好的新年 举杯，快来加入我们吧！
You are invited to countdown 2018 with a feast of the finest food, drinks, ambience, live music and merrymaking with the ones you love This Havana Night dinner held at Mira Terrace and River Lawn includes an international barbecued buffet spread, free flow wine, beer, soft drinks, and juices. Includes Party packs & gifts to set the mood, and free entry to the Countdown Party. Join us at the Countdown Party, When we reflect and wish for a wonderful year ahead! Venue: River Lawn Date: 31 December 2017 Time: from 6.00 p.m. to 1.00 a.m. Price: THB 5,900 for Adults and THB 2,950 for Children (3-12 years) Highlights: International barbecued buffet spread with free flow house wine, beer, soft drinks and juices. For more information or reservations, please contact(053) 999 333 Includes: Free flow drinks, seated dinner, unlimited entertainment, and entry to countdown party with fireworks.
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地点：拉缇兰纳河畔度假村酒店 河边草坪 时间：2017年12月31日 时间：下午6点至凌晨1点 价格：成人5900THB 儿童（3-12岁）2950THB 亮点：国际烧烤自助晚宴，免费酒水饮料，欢乐派对活动， 焰火表演。 预想了解更多详细信息，请联系 (053) 999 333
Yaang come 央康姆度假村酒店
Celebrate Grand New Year’s Eve Gala Dinner at Yaang Come Village. Live music, traditional Thai dance show. Besides the above information, you will get chance to win “Lucky Draw” Sunday, December 31st, 2017 (7pm onward) Price ticket: THB 3,500 net per person for adults and THB 3,000 net per child under 12 years old. For more information or reservations, please contact (053) 237 222
诚邀各位朋友前来参加央康姆度假村酒店参加新年晚宴，体验 传统兰纳泰式“KAD MUA”年货集市，欣赏现场音乐和传统泰式舞 蹈，届时参加精彩大礼包抽奖活动。 时间：2017年12月31日（晚7点开始） 票价：成人3500THB/每人 ，12岁以下儿童3000THB/每人。
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San Kamphaeng and the City
If you have thoroughly explored Chiang Mai and now want to get out into nature, we will recommend a 2-day, 1-night trip taking in the serene countryside of Mae Kampong, some 25 kilometres outside the city, and finishing at Wat Kate, which is the historical river-port area of Chiang Mai.
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Day 1: Soak up the Slow Rustic Life Mae Kampong is located in Mae On district, about an hour southeast of Chiang Mai. It is a sleepy village where streams flow and waterfalls rush alongside the winding roads. The town is located some 1,300 meters above sea level and is surrounded by sylvan jungle. The weather is cool all year round. In recent years, this has become Chiang Mai’s best known eco-tourism destination and is especially popular for home-stays. Most visitors come to Mae Kampong village on a day trip, but having the opportunity to stay overnight with a local family gives you such an added experience. You’ll get to see the local community’s way of life, whether it be collecting tea leaves, foraging around the waterfalls for wild herbs, cooking jungle curries or just relaxing in a simple stilted wooden house surrounded by beautiful scenery. Those who crave adventure can spend an afternoon zip-lining through the canopy of the jungle at Flight of the Gibbon, one of Northern Thailand’s most exhilarating activities. Or, if you want to sit and chill with a cup of coffee, there are many cozy cafes with great views, such as Ban Him Huay Loong Pud Pa Peng Cafe, Chom NokChom Mai Cafe, Teen Tok Royal Project Development Center and The Giant Chiang Mai which is a coffee shop built above the ground in a giant tree.
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Day 2: San Kamphaeng–Wat Kate Morning – Late morning San Kamphaeng and its sister village Borsang are famed for handicrafts, silks and parasols made from mulberry paper, but this district is also host to a world-class contemporary art gallery called MAIIAM, which showcases the works of many leading Thai and international artists. Also on the art circuit is Vichit Studio, a private gallery that exhibits artwork by contemporary artists. It is located on the edge of a rice field and has beautiful mountain vistas. Off the beaten track, you can seek out Ban Jang Nak, where exhibits and sculptures of elephants are displayed: a great place to buy elephant souvenirs.
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Wallow in a Spa Lunch Kamphaeng Kaew restaurant within MAIIAM Art Museum has a menu offering delicious Thai and Western dishes, while Meena Rice-Based Cuisine is a rustic outdoor restaurant with a menu of recipes based, as it says, on rice.
Afternoon Tea Returning from San Kamphaeng into the city, you come to Wat Kate on the east bank of the Ping River. This neighbourhood is rich in heritage as well as boutiques and bistros. We would like to recommend Café des Artists, decorated in contemporary Chinese style, which offers delightful teas in a tranquil and cozy willow garden. Coffee shops nearby include Woo Café, a semi-casual cafe with a contemporary art gallery, and Forest Bake Cafe and Bread Shop, a venue where you can savour some tasty pastries and cakes.
Rarinjinda Spa is a premium spa that offers unique treatments and hydrotherapy courses. Further south on the opposite side of the river is RatiLanna Spa, also set inside a hotel of the same name, which offers relaxing massage and pampering spa treatments.
Round off the Day with Live Music and Cocktails Good View Bar & Restaurant and the Riverside Bar & Restaurant are two of the best options in Chiang Mai for nightlife and evening dinner. Both are on the east bank of the river. For ladies who like to get down to a lil’ bit of rock n’ roll, get your boogie shoes on for some funky live bands at either venue.
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慢生活 从原始村庄到现代城市 清迈城区适合游客自由行观光的范围其实并不大，它就像清迈历代生活文化 的一个缩影，而真正的清迈生活却在城郊，靠近各个山头的村落。 有时候真不是“一日游”就能玩得尽兴，至少得花上两天一夜，不信就跟我 进山去走走吧！
DAY 1 第一天 湄甘博原始村落的“慢生活” 湄甘博村位于清迈东郊大概一个小时车程的山坳里， 清澈的山泉顺流而下，一路上时常能听到浑厚的瀑布流水 声，这座藏在石头群里的原始村落最高海拔1300米。眼下正 是入冬时节，太阳一下山，立马就有冷空气凝集，尤其是早 晨起床的时候，整个山谷都被白茫茫的大雾所掩埋。 当地人喜欢清早去傍晚回城，但我们推荐在头天的下 午进入湄甘博村，隔天中午返回，至少你可以在早晨心情最 好的时候体验湄甘博最与众不同的仙灵。和村里人一起去采 茶，像诗人一样在云雾中享受一杯咖啡。你很难想象得到， 在这个高速发展的时代，居然还有这么纯真而不刻板的“原 始村落”。它没有刻意开发的雕刻感，更没有城市人眼中 的“刻板木讷”，传统的居住与生活方式，反而让人敬畏尤 佳。 我们把湄甘博村的特色称为“慢生活”，这里有太多 与自然融为一体、设计独特的咖啡馆和充满风土人情的餐 厅，比如最高处的观鸟瞰林咖啡馆、丁朵皇家项目餐厅和大 树咖啡馆等等。假如你想来点激动人心的活动，那也来湄甘 博吧！这里有著名Flight of the Gibbons丛林飞跃，惊险刺激 任由你掌控。
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DAY 2 第二天 湄甘博村-瓦阁多国文化社区 金色阳光-迷雾仙境 即便你对这座村庄是有多么的依依不舍，但你终将要 离开。没有短暂的离别，就不会有长久的思念，思念是美好 的，想象是无边际的，再去山顶喝杯咖啡，把湄甘博村的质 朴与聪慧留在心里，只要心存美好，去到哪里都有“湄甘 博”，出发吧！ 沿路返回的途中，我们来到 MAIIAM Contemporary Art Museum 麦秧现代艺术博物馆，这里会不定期展出泰国 及世界各国当代艺术家的作品。在这附近还有现代雕塑行为 艺术工作室，这是艺术家维奇猜翁大师的“生活工作室”， 他会把在你能看见的艺术从平凡的生活中揪出来，再放进另 一空间里，叫人瞬间顿悟。如果你也和我一样喜欢当地的文 人艺术，不妨跟我去 Baan Jang Nuk 参观当地的柚木雕刻作 品。 午餐 三甘烹有多家特色餐厅，比如麦秧现代艺术博物馆内 的特色餐吧，以及Meena Rice Based Cuisine 现代泰国菜餐 厅。 下午茶 吃过午饭，恰好是下午茶时间，此时的我们也来到了 充满多国文化气息的瓦阁寺社区。此前我们也多次提到瓦阁 社区，这是所有前来清迈的游客最不能错过的地方，只有来 到瓦阁，你才能体会到从古至今清迈这座城市的包容心有多 大。不论是从曼谷过来还是后期涌进来的外国商人及淘金者 都从滨河岸边登陆，并在此扎根融入清迈传统文化。所以瓦 阁社区的建筑及寺庙都充满了“殖民地”风格，如今的瓦阁 社区依旧住着欧洲人、印度人、中国人等外国人的后裔。了 解了这段历史之后，我想大家去到瓦阁社区各种特色咖啡馆 的时候，也更能理解为何这里会藏着这么多珍品。热门咖啡 馆推荐：Café des Artists 、Woo Café 、Forest Bake 放松休息 如果不想去太远的话，那就在瓦阁社区吧，这里有最 好的星级SPA馆Rarinjinda Spa拉琳金达水疗馆，还有滨河对 岸位于拉缇兰纳酒店内的RatiLanna Spa拉缇兰纳精品水疗 馆。 尽情燥起来的夜生活 本次旅行也接近尾声，时动时静时慢时快，时而现代 时而古典，这就是清迈，让你说不清道不明的清迈。夜生活 推荐：Good View Bar & Restaurant 、 The Riverside Bar & Restaurant 61
AIRLINE SCHEDULES THAI AIRWAYS INTERNATIONAL CHIANG MAI TO BANGKOK TG 103
1005
1125
Daily
TG 105
1040
1155
Daily
TG 111
1520
1635
Daily
TG 117
1920
2040
Daily
TG 121
2050
2210
Daily
TG 2177
0615
0730
Daily
TG 5947
0655
0815
Daily
TG 5949
1000
1120
Daily
TG 5951
1145
1305
Daily
TG 2161
1220
1330
Daily
TG 5953
1410
1530
Daily
TG 2169
1500
1615
Daily
TG 5955
1715
1835
Daily
TG 2165
1725
1840
Daily
TG 5957
1910
2030
Daily
TG 5959
2140
2300
Daily
TG 2167
2155
2310
Daily
BANGKOK TO CHIANG MAI TG102
0750
0910
Daily
TG 104
0830
0950
Daily
TG 110
1315
1425
Daily
NOK AIR CHIANG MAI - BANGKOK (DON MUANG) DD8301 DD8303 DD8307 DD8311 DD8313 DD8315 DD8319 DD8325 DD8327
0745 0830 1045 1230 1425 1525 1810 2110 2210
0850 0935 1150 1340 1530 1630 1915 2220 2320
DD8300 DD8302 DD8306 DD8310 DD8312 DD8314 DD8318 DD8316 DD8324 DD8326
0605 0650 0905 1040 1240 1340 1630 1705 1900 2025
0715 0800 1015 1155 1350 1450 1740 1840 2010 2135
BANGKOK AIRWAYS
1710
1830
Daily
CHIANG MAI TO BANGKOK
1325
Daily
TG 5954
1510
1625
Daily
PG 222 PG 216 PG 224 PG 907 PG 226 PG 220 PG228
1540
1655
Daily
2000
Daily
TG2168
0700
0815
Daily
TG5946
0800
0915
Daily
TG5948
0945
1100
Daily
TG2160
1020
1135
Daily
TG 5956
1710
1825
Daily
TG5958
1935
2050
Daily
TG 2166
1950
2105
Daily
TG5960
2115
2230
Daily
TG 2176
2220
2335
Daily
0655 1000 1145 1410 1715 1910 2140
0815 1120 1305 1530 1835 2030 2300
Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily
BANGKOK TO CHIANG MAI PG215 PG270 PG217 PG262 PG906 PG227 PG221
0800 0945 1210 1510 1710 1935 2115
0915 1100 1325 1625 1825 2050 2230
Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily
CHIANG MAI - SAMUI PG242
1250
1435
Daily
SAMUI - CHIANG MAI PG241
THAI AIRWAYS (DOMESTIC): 240 Prapokklao Rd., Muang, Chiang Mai Tel. (053) 920 921 -34, (053) 920 999 www.thaiairways.com
Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily
1020
1210
Daily
CHIANG MAI - PHUKET PG248
1430
1640
0725 0820 1025 1215 1325 1415 1530 1635 1730 1845 2115 2220
0825 0925 1140 1330 1435 1530 1645 1750 1845 2000 2245 2345
Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily
BANGKOK TO CHIANG MAI FD3416 FD3437 FD3443 FD3435 FD3447 FD3441 FD3433 FD3445 FD3431 FD3439 FD3425 FD3427 FD3429 FD3419
0510 0640 0840 1030 1135 1225 1345 1440 1545 1655 1930 2035 2125 2140
0625 0750 0940 1145 1255 1345 1500 1605 1700 1810 2045 2150 2235 2255
1130
1340
FD3160 FD3162 FD3168
0610 1310 2145
0810 1505 2350
Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily
FD3159 FD3161 FD3167
0840 1035 1920
1040 1230 2115
Daily Daily Daily
CHIANG MAI - HAT YAI FD3064 FD408
0625 1450
0820 1700
Daily Daily
HAT YAI - CHIANG MAI FD3065 FD409
0900 1740
1110 1930
Daily Daily
CHIANG MAI - KRABI FD3070 FD3074
1150 1600
1410 1805
Daily Daily
KRABI - CHIANG MAI FD3071 FD3075
1450 1845
1645 2035
Daily Daily
CHIANG MAI - SURATTHANI FD5422 FD5420
0735 1110
0905 1300
SURATTHANI - CHIANG MAI
Daily
FD5423 FD5421
Chiang Mai Office: 2nd Fl., Chiang Mai International Airport, A. Muang, Chiang Mai 50000. Tel. (053) 281 519 Fax: (053) 281 520. www.bangkokair.com
Daily Daily Daily
PHUKET - CHIANG MAI
Daily
PHUKET - CHIANG MAI PG 247
62
FD3417 FD3438 FD3444 FD3436 FD3448 FD3442 FD3434 FD3446 FD3432 FD3440 FD3426 FD3428
CHIANG MAI - PHUKET
1210
1840
Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily
Chiang Mai International Airport, 1st Fl. Tel. (053) 922 183 www.nokair.com
TG 116
TG 2164
CHIANG MAI TO BANGKOK
BANGKOK (DON MUANG) CHIANG MAI
TG 5950
TG120
THAI AIR ASIA
0955 1330
1120 1515
Daily Daily Daily Daily
For Reservations: Tel. (053) 922 170 www.airasia.com
THAI LION AIR CHIANG MAI TO BANGKOK (Don
CHIANG MAI TO BANGKOK
Muang International Airport)
(สุวรรณภูมิ)
SL525
0650
SILK AIR
THAI SMILE
0805
Daily
WE177
CHIANG MAI - SINGAPORE MI705
0615
0730
Daily
SL523
0800
0915
Daily
WE161
1220
1330
Daily
SL507
1015
1145
Daily
WE169
1500
1615
Daily
SL509
1140
1255
Daily
WE165
1725
1840
Daily
SL511
1330
1445
Daily
WE167
2155
2310
Daily
SL513
1545
1700
Daily
SL515
1710
1830
Daily
SL517
1805
1935
Daily
BANGKOK (Don Muang International Airport) TO CHIANG MAI SL506
0855
BANGKOK(สุวรรณภูมิ)
TO CHIANG MAI WE168
0700
0815
Daily
WE160
1020
1135
Daily
WE164
1540
1655
Daily
0935
Daily
WE166
1950
2105
Daily
WE176
2220
2335
Daily
SL508
0940
1055
Daily
SL512
1340
1455
Daily
SL514
1505
1610
Daily
SL516
1550
1705
Daily
WE171
SL522
2010
2110
Daily
SL524
2225
2355
Daily
PHUKET - CHIANG MAI
Thai Lionair Call Center: 89/46 Vibhavadi Rangsit Road., Sanambin Sub-District, Don Muang District, Bangkok 10210. Tel. 02-142-9988, 02-529-9999 www.lionairthai.com
CHIANG MAI - PHUKET
WE272
0940
1235
1135
1435
MI706
2145
Mon/Sun
1450
1650
Sun
132 Central Duangtawan Hotel, Loykroh Rd.,T. Changklan Tel. (053) 904 985-7 Fax: (053) 904 988 www.silkair.com
LAO AIRLINES CHIANG MAI - LUANG PRABANG QV 636
Daily
1740
SINGAPORE - CHIANG MAI
1515
1615
Daily
LUANG PRABANG - CHIANG MAI QV 635
1315
1415
Daily
Daily
Chiang Mai International Airport, A. Muang, Chiang Mai 50000. Tel. (02) 118 8888 www. thaismileair.com
Lao AIRLINES Office: Nakorn Ping Condo 1st Fl., 2/107 Ratchapluek Rd., T.Chang Puak, A. Muang, Chiangmai 50300Tel. (053) 223 401 Fax: (053) 223 400. E-mail: <qvcnx@loxinfo.co.th> www.laoairlines.com
63
KOREAN AIR
2355
0650+ 1
Daily
SEOUL - CHIANG MAI KE 667
1840
DRAGONAIR
CHIANG MAI - YANGON
CHIANG MAI - SEOUL KE 668
AIR BAGAN
W9 608
1720
1810
CHIANG MAI - HONG KONG Sun/Tue/Thu
YANGON - CHIANG MAI
2240
Daily
W9 607
1420
1610
KA233
1120
1500
Tue/Fri
KA233
1825
2200
Sat/Sun/ Mon/Wed/Thu
Tue/Thu/Sun
HONG KONG - CHIANG MAI Reservation and more information: Tel. (053) 922 556, (053) 922 557, (02) 635 0465 www.koreanair.com
more information: Tel. (053) 284 985-6, (083) 178 7771 Fax. (053) 284 986 www.airbagan.com
HONGKONG EXPRESS
CHINA EASTERN AIRLINES
MU2594
1755
2025
Daily
MU2596
1850
2120
Daily
KUNMING - CHIANG MAI 1600
1635
Daily
MU2595
1640
1715
Daily
more information: Tel. (02) 636 6980, (02) 134 2101 www.flychinaeastern.com
UO754
1930
2315
UO753
1650
1845
Th/Fr/Sa/Su
MORE INFORMATION: Tel. (02) 634 2552 GSA: AVS Express Co., Ltd., Email: sasatron.i@waa.co.th www.hkexpress.com
in Chiang Mai
138 Charoen Prathet Rd. Tel. (053) 275 277, http://afthailande.org /en/chiang-mai-branch/
领事馆 Consulate of Australia 236 Chiang Mai - Doi Saket Rd., Sansai district Tel. (053) 492 426 Consulate of Austria 15 M.1 Huay Kaew Rd. Tel. (053) 400 231 Consulate of Canada 151 Superhighway Chiang Mai – Lampang Rd., T. Tasala Tel. (053) 840 147
64
Mon/Wed/Thu
*AVAILABLE ON THE WEBSITE Manit Transport Co., Ltd (GSA), 143 Rajchawong Rd., T. Changmoi, A. Muang, Chiang Mai 50300 Tel. (053) 252 988 Fax. (053) 251 417 www.dragonair.com
Mo/Tu/
Consulate of France (Alliance Francaise)
104-112 Tha Pae Rd. Tel. (053) 234 777
Tue/Fri Sat/Sun/
We/Th/Fr/Sa/Su
Consulates
Consulate of Finland
1005 1735
HONG KONG - CHIANG MAI
MU2593
111 Chang Lo Rd., T.Haiya Tel. (053) 274 614, http://chiangmai.chineseconsulate.org
0805 1520
CHIANG MAI - HONG KONG
CHIANG MAI - KUNMING
Consulate General of China
KA232 KA232
Consulate of Germany 199/163 Ban Nai Fun 2, Canal Rd. Tel: 053-838735 Consulate of India 33/1 Thung Hotel Rd., T. Wat Ket Tel. (053) 247 879, www.indianembassy.in.th
**airlines’ schedules are sometimes changed at short notice. Please call the phone to check the confirmed schedules.
Consulate of Peru 362/30 Charoenrat Rd. Usa Faham Village Tel. (053) 306 358 Consulate of the Philippines 176 M.3 San Phranet, Sansai Tel. (053) 351 278 Consulate of Portugal 88/58 Supalai Moda San Phi Suea Tel. (053) 106 147 Consulate of South Korea
Consulate of Italy
V-Group Building, Floor 3, |Huay Kaew Rd. Tel. (053) 223 119-23 ext. 204
101/136 Intawarorot Rd. Tel. (053) 212 925
Consulate of Sweden
Consulate General of Japan Room No.104-107 Airport Business Park, 90 Mahidol Rd. Tel. (053) 203 373, www.chiangmai.th.emb-japan.go.jp Consulate General of Myanmar 9/4 Maneenopparat Soi 3 T. Sriphum, Muang district Tel. (053) 216 191
186/84 Green Valley, Moo 5, Mae Rim district Tel. (053) 298 632 Consulate of Switzerland 153 Sridonchai Rd., T. Chang Klan Tel. (053) 283 900 Consulate General of the United States 387 Wtchayanon Rd., T. Chang Moi Tel. (053) 252 633, http://chiangmai. usconsulate.gov
BUS
CHIANG MAI ARCADE BUS STATION
WWW.GREENBUSTHAILAND.COM (053) 242 664
DESTINATION
DEPARTURE TIME
DURATION
ROUTE
TO BANGKOK Air-Conditioned Bus (X-Class) 10:30 10 hrs. More options for transport bus (Chiang Mai-Bangkok), please call 053-242 664 TO CHIANG RAI Air-Conditioned Bus (VIP) (V-Class) 8:15 / 10:15 3 hrs. *12:30 / 14:45 / (Fri, Sun) 17:15 / 18:00 (Fri, Sun) 18:30 / (Fri, Sun) 19:00 Air-Conditioned Bus (X-Class) (Sun-Fri) 7:00 / *7:45 / 9:00 3 hrs. (Sat) 09:30/ 10:30/ 11:00/ *12:15 13:15/ 15:00/ (Fri,Sun) 16:00/ (Mon-Thu,Sat)17:00/ (Fri,Sun) 18:30/ (Fri,Sun) 19:00 TO MAE SAI Air-Conditioned Bus (VIP) (V&X Class) (Mon) 05:15/ (Sat) 07:00/ 8:00/ 4 hrs. (Sun-Fri) 09:30/ (Fri,Sun) 16:30 Air-Conditioned Bus (A Class) 6:00/ (Mon-Thu,Sat)16:15/ (Fri,Sun)17:00 4 hrs. TO CHIANG KONG (Duration time 4 hrs. Route 671) Air-Conditioned Bus (VIP) (V&X Class) 8:00 8 hrs. Air-Conditioned Bus (X-Class) 9.30/14:30 8 hrs.
CHIANGPUAK BUS STATION BUSES FROM CHIANG MAI - SURROUNDING DISTRICTS DESTINATION FANG CHIANG DAO - FANG - MAE RIM - MAE TAENG - ELEPHANT CAMP - CHIANG DAO OM KOY MAE AI - THATON PEANGLOUNG WIENG HANG HOD DOI TAO SAN KHAMPAENG PRAO SAMOENG BAN WATCHAN LAMPHUN PAI MAE HONG SORN
DEPARTURE TIME
CHIANG MAI RAILWAY STATION:
27 CHAROEN MUANG RD., A. MUANG,
CHIANG MAI. (053) 244 795
CHIANG MAI- BANGKOK Express 102 Special Express 8 Express 52 Special Express 14 Special Express 2
06.30 08.50 15.30 17.00 18.00
BANGKOK- CHIANG MAI BANGKOKâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S PRINCIPAL RAILWAY STATION; (02) 621 8701
DURATION
3 hrs. 3 hrs. 20 mins. 30 mins. 50 mins. 1 hr. N: 07:50, 13:30 4 hrs. N: 05:30,07:20, 09:00,10:30,11:30,13:30, 15:30 4 hrs. Minibus: 7:30,10:30,13:30, 15:30 3 hrs. N: 08:30,12:30 6 hrs. N: 05:00 - 17:30 (every 20 mins.) 2 hrs. N: 04:30, 05:30, 08:30, 10:30, 12:30, 14:30, 15:30, 18:00 3 hrs. 7.00-21.00 (every 10 minutes) 30 mins. 8.15-16.15 (every 30 minutes) 2 hrs. 9.00-16.00 (every 30 minutes) 40 mins. 9.00 & 11.00 6 hrs. 8.00-16.00 1 hrs. 6.30-17.30 (every 1 hour) 3 hrs. 7.00 5 hrs. 6.30-14.30 (every 30 minutes) 6 hrs. 7.00 8 hrs.
DP.
Special Express 7 Express 109 Special Express 1 Special Express 13 Express 51
08.30 13.45 18.10 19.35 22.00
AR.
3rdFARE
2nd FARE
21.10 19.25 05.25 06.15 06.50
231
391
19.30 04.05 07.15 08.40 12.10
166
166
619 619 170 170
(053) 211 586
Minibus: 07:30-16:30 (every 1 hr.) 5.30 -19.30 (every 30 minutes) 6.00-18.00 (every 10 minutes) 5.30-20.00 (every 10 minutes)
TRAIN
18
2nd FARE (Aircon)
BUS Minibus Orange
Blue Orange Red Blue White Red Yellow Yellow Blue-White VAN Bus VAN Bus
2nd FARE
2nd FARE
(Sleeper)
(Sleeper/Aircon)
531/581
751/821
1stFARE
(Sleeper/Aircon)
641 271
541
601/671
791/881 1,253/1,453 791/881 1,253/1,453
641 231
271
391
491/541
541
531/581
791/881
1,253/1,453
791/881
1,253/1,453
751/821
STATE RAILWAY OF THAILAND CALL CENTRE 1690 (24 HRS.) 65
index A
S
J
Aroon Rai Restaurant
16
AUA
20
B
Jolie Femme
17
Buri Siri Hotel
15
C
13
M Mengrai Kilns
17
CLBS
8
Nara Tour
27
E Elephant Poo Poo Paper Park
27
F Fha Lanna Spa
7
G Good View
13
H 14
I Is Wheels
25
20
Sukantara Resort
25
T
The Plaza Outlet Mall
21 5
29
Tiger Kingdom
27
Pavilion Night Bazaar
12
Toyota Sure
21
Pioneer Cargo
20
T.Y.L Corporation
16
Phungnoi Bakery
17
Punna Residence
Inside Front
V Veerachai Court
Back Cover
Rati Lanna Riverside Spa Resort 11
Royal Project
A NUMBERS GAME
Important Phone Numbers Emergency 191 Tourist Police 1155 Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) 1672 TAT Chiang Mai (053) 248 604-5 Highway Police 1193 Customs Office (053) 277 510 Immigration Bureau 1178 or (053) 201 755-6 Chiang Mai Police Station (053)242 2234 Bhuping Police Station (053) 211 750 Maharaj Nakorn Ping Hospital (Suan Dok) (053) 947 700
17
W
R
20
Walen International School
20
X X-Centre 3 Y
9
Yaang Come Village
66
4
P. Collection
Rice Barge Boat Trip
Spotlight Bar
The River Market
P
Rarinjinda Spa
Huay Kaew Residence
63
29 6
The Dukeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Restaurant
N
Chilli Antiques & Arts
Shinawatra Thai Silk Shiraz Jewelry
L Le Crystal
Baan Celadon
12
Department Stores and Shopping Outlets Central Kad Suan Kaew Plaza Huay Kaew Rd. CentralFestival Chiang Mai (Superhighway Juvenile Court Intersection) CentralPlaza Chiang Mai Airport (close to Chiang Mai International Airport) Maya Lifestyle Shopping Mall (Rincome Intersection, near Nimmanhaemin Rd.) Big C Extra (Superhighway Rd.) Tesco Lotus (Superhighway Rd.)
67