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in Brief 16 Calendar
What’s going on around town
20 Things to Know
Useful tips for roaming around Chiang Mai
22 Local Talk
An inspiring interview with Ratchanok Ketboonruang, Manager of Kob Koon Kafe at Chiang Mai City Arts & Cultural Center
32 Checking Out Chiang Mai Old Town Five interesting culture
Authentic Thai dishes you can cook at home
46 Great Finds
Restaurants, cafés, accommodations and products for townsfolk and tourists alike
52 Nature Trails of Chiang Mai By Road 1 day trip on routes
you can conquer by motorbike, car, bicycle or taxi
58 Shopping
Quality diamond jewelry and gemstones serve as a precious gift at Parasu Gems
61 Transport
Bus / Train / walks that will help you and your Airline Schedules family learn more about Chiang Mai’s history and traditions 64 Index
From the cover A cool breeze is just around the corner in the month of November. It is a great time of the year to start the day with hot coffee at a coffee stand by the street and watching the locals’ way of life, a simple way to happiness. Location: Aunty Lek Coffeehouse, in front of Chiang Mai Gate Market
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44 Chinese Story
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Publisher Supap Pluempreedee Managing Director Sawasdi Posolee General Manager Pitcharee Wanta Editor in Chief Saenmuang Editorial Consultant Colin McLean Editorial Staff Samart Suwannarat Israwan Pothipun Khanidtha Aounfour Chinese Consultant Xiaojuan Li Translator Pattaraporn Wiwattanakarn Art Director Sangworn Hochaisiwanon Graphic Designers Sirada Mongkonphan Supaporn Norsine Vijittra Chaisri Chief Photographer Karin Mongkonphan Photographer Peerapol Khamlapis Advertising Director Maneerat Bond Area Manager Warapong Matiang Sales Executives Somruethai Ramasuth Watcharaporn Malipatin Advertising Coordinators Jina Y. Srinuan Aunthachai Accountants Yuparet Kasing Mayuree Tipjai
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Design
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E-mail: guidelinecm@hotmail.com info@guidelineschiangmai.com
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CALENDAR 24 November
Noel Gallagher’s New Album Last month it was younger brother Liam; this time it’s the other half of those quibbling siblings, Noel Gallagher, who is releasing an album. Titled “Who Built the Moon?” it will be released on 24 November and is guaranteed to keep the long-lasting brotherly feud alive and kicking. It’s been a good year for Oasis fans, so let’s enjoy this brilliant album.
6–10 December
Chiang Mai Design Week 2017
10 November
Master of Puppets When you think of heavy metal, Metallica is probably one of the images that come to mind. More than 30 years ago they brought out “Master of Puppets”; this time round, the album is being re-released with a range of new re-mastering techniques. Check online for details of CDs, streaming and deluxe box sets.
November onward
The Last Straw in Chiang Mai TCDC Chiang Mai continually organises creative and design activities around the city and has been doing so for several years. December means it has again come time for Chiang Mai Design Week. ‘Crafted life’ is the theme for 2017, and it will include lots of special events, seminars, exhibitions and workshops at both TCDC Chiang Mai and Chiang Mai old town. Don’t miss it!
A new campaign to help the environment by reducing the use of plastic straws in Chiang Mai has been initiated by young artists, musicians and professionals through the North Gate Jazz Co-op. Get all the info on Facebook at: North Gate JaZZco-op.
9 November
Murder on the Orient Express Everyone’s favourite novel is coming to the cinema. This time, the movie promises to be an enthralling remake of Murder on the Orient Express, directed by Kenneth Branagh and starring Johnny Depp, Michelle Pfeiffer and Penelope Cruz. It will be screened on cinemas around Chiang Mai from 9 November; check online for details. 16
18 November
Cycling Together to Chiang Dao
26 November
Khon @ Kad Theater Khon, a traditional Thai masked drama, will perform the Hanuman Khun Swa Bunpacha Pen Rhuasri, one part of the Ramayana epic. Can a hermit ordain a monkey? Find out at Kad Theater. Tickets: 200-500 baht, now available online at:https://goo.gl/R45RP6.
30 November
Jigsaw A special cycling race called the Lanna Challenge 2017 will see many competitors and biking enthusiasts head for hills this month on a 142-kilometer route from Chiang Mai International Exhibition and Convention Centre (CMECC) to Chiang Dao Cave. For more information and registration until 17 November, go to: https:// goo.gl/6gxAWH
From a blood-soaked puzzle to a serial killer, the horror movie franchise Sawis now onto its eighth film. It may be overladen with clichés and stereotypical plots, but Jigsaw is sure to have you biting your nails and squirming on the edge of your seat. It will be screened on cinemas around Chiang Mai from 30 November; check online for details.
25 November
Citylife Annual Charity Fair Citylife magazine will hosts its annual charity fair this year at a new venue – Nimmanhaemin Road. More space means more stalls, more food, more drinks, more performances and more fun; and will hopefully help raise more money for charity. For more information, write to: wichuda@chiangmaicitylife.com
1–26 November
Art at Art Mai Gallery ARCOLABS brings you “Breathing on Paper”, a contemporary art exhibition exploring the potential of paper with five artists from Korea, Indonesia and Thailand. Art Mai Gallery Chiang Mai is located at Nimmanhaemin Soi 3. Entrance is free. For more information, go to: http://www.arcolabs.org/breathing-on-paper. 17
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Chiang Mai’s
Favourite Month Mass Transit Services
WELCOME
There are about 2,000 Red Cabs (pick-ups or song-taew) available throughout the city.
Welcome to November, Chiang Mai’s favourite month Apart from the spectacular Loy Krathong festival, which will feature at the beginning of the month, there are numerous fun-filled and action-packed activities going on around Chiang Mai in November – in fact, all visitors should find themselves spoilt for choice. November is the time that many attractions and businesses re-open, especially natural sites that closed for the rainy season as a conservation period. Check out the national parks and forested areas around the city! The cool season is upon us, so it is a great opportunity to get outdoors and breathe in the tropical mountain air. Enjoy the gentle sunshine as you stroll around the delightful Old Town within the moat. Whatever you do, have a wonderful November to Remember in Chiang Mai!
Airport taxi to anywhere downtown is 150 baht. For rides outside the ‘metropolis’: 50 baht as soon as you get in the cab, then 50 baht for the first two kilometres, and 10 baht per km thereafter. If you want to go somewhere outside the city, you will have to check the chart at the airport taxi counters (it’s usually 180 to 350 baht). 20
Airport Shuttle Bus (air-conditioned van) is available at Gate 9. Just 40 baht per person. Route 1: Airport–Central Kad Suan Kaew– Huay Kaew Road – Chiang Mai University; Route 2: Airport– Night Bazaar. Shuttles run 7am–9.30pm Shared red pick-up trucks (known as song-taew) are sometimes waiting at the exits or outside the airport. Price is about 40-60 baht.
Fixed Route Red Cabs: From 15 baht. Check all five routes on mobile application: CMTRANSIT (available both IOS and Android gadgets) White Cabs (No.12) available in Chiang Mai downtown only. Price is 15 baht. Purple-White Cabs run Chiang Mai– Lamphun (base station is Warorot Market). Price is 12–40 baht. Call (083) 325 4965. Blue Cabs run Chiang Mai– Doi Tao district (base station is Warorot Market). Price is 15–40 baht. Orange Cabs run Chiang Mai–Fang (base station is Chang Puak Bus Station). Price is 15–40 baht. Yellow Cabs cover three routes: Chiang Mai– Mae Rim; Chiang Mai– Doi Saket; and Chiang Mai– Chom Thong. Mae Rim and Doi Saket cabs start at Warorot Market while Chom Thong cabs run from Chang Puak Bus Station and Wua Lai Road (Chiang Mai Gate). White Cabs cover two routes: Chiang Mai– Mae Taeng (base stations: Chang Puak Bus Station, Warorot Market); and Chiang Mai– San Kamphaeng district (base station: Warorot Market).
Green Cabs run Chiang Mai– Sansai (base station: Warorot Market).
Telephone Numbers
Chang Puak Bus Station Arcade Bus Station Chiang Mai Railway Station
(053) 211 586 (053) 241 449 (053) 244 795
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如果你是第一次来清迈，我会推荐你去参观清 迈文化艺术中心，因为这里是最能让你了解清迈历 史的地方。同时，你还能在这里看到到整个清迈的 概况，你会发现历史里的清迈和现代清迈的不同与 相同之处，看一看有哪些地方和文化，是值得你在 接下来的旅程中特别去观察和欣赏的，如此说来， 你会比较容易轻松享受老城的慢时光，细细品味那 些细微的城市风貌。此外，既然参观了文化艺术中 心，可别错过清迈历史博物馆和兰纳民宿展馆，这 两处都紧邻于三王纪念碑。仅仅在古城中心的这小 块区域，就能参观历史文物，走出展馆的一瞬间还 能看到琳琅满目的地道小吃店和特色工艺品店，仿 佛在历史与现实间游刃有余。并且没走几步路就能 到达从过去一直沿用至今的老市场，看看清迈人的 生活，品尝正宗清迈美食小吃。
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Local talk
拉查诺•杰布郎 Kob Koon kafe
清迈艺术文化中心咖啡餐吧 经理
Ratchanok Ketboonruang
Manager of Kob Koon Kafe at Chiang Mai City Arts & Cultural Center If you’ve just arrived in Chiang Mai, I recommend that, first of all, you must visit Chiang Mai City Arts & Cultural Center because here we have comprehensive information about the history of Chiang Mai. It will give you an overview of the city and make it easier for you to enjoy roaming around the Old Town. What’s more, it is a two-minute walk to Chiang Mai Historical Center, Lanna Folklife Museum, Wat Phan Tao, Wat Chedi Luang and Phrapokklao Road, where there are plenty of arts & crafts shops, such as Sumet Studio or Tan shop with lovely local dishes and desserts. “Another ‘must-do’ activity is visiting the fresh markets inside the Old City – try either Sompetch or Chiang Mai Gate Market: they’re lively and authentic.
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Checking Out
Chiang Mai Old Town
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Chiang Mai’s Old Town, founded by King Mengrai in 1296 AD, is an idyllic city of heritage that is both impressive and intriguing. A day can easily be spent walking or cycling around the backstreets and among the ancient Buddhist temples, museums and teeming fruit and veg markets. Guidelines Travel this month brings you a list of 5 Culture Tours that you can do without the aid of a tour agent, guide or taxi. Each is pleasant and interesting in its own right, and will help you and your family learn more about Chiang Mai’s history and traditions.
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Wat Umong Maha Therachan, one of the original temples that was built during the construction of Chiang Mai city in the 13th century. Inside are the ruins of a tunnel used for religious walking exercises. And just round the corner is Wat Lamchang; this was an elephant stable during King Mengrai’s reign and the stone stakes used for their chains are still impaled there to this day. Continuing behind Wat Lamchang, you’ll find Wat Chiangman, the first temple ever built in Chiang Mai; it is locally known as ‘Wieng Lek’. Behind it lies Wat Saen Muang Ma Luang, built by Phaya (King) Muangkaew, one of the rulers during the Mengrai Dynasty. After that, head in a southerly direction to the crossroads, where you’ll find Khum Chao Burirat Kaew Mung Muang, which is located inside Chiang Mai Tobacco Office, just 100 metres from Wat Saen Muang Ma Luang. This was previously a royal residence and is constructed of beautiful wood and designed in colonial style.
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Following the Vestiges of the Lanna Dynasty
This route will allow you follow the traces of the 13thcentury Mengrai Dynasty and the Lanna (Northern Thai) royal family. Start at Three Kings Monument, a statue dedicated to the trio of regional kings who collaborated to found Chiang Mai: King Mengrai, King Ngammuang and King Ramkhamhaeng. This monument is located in front of Chiang Mai City Arts and Cultural Center and marks the heart of the city. Next to it is Wat Inthakhin or Wat Sadue Mueang; this is where the city pillar was originally enshrined. King Mengrai Shrine, a stupa containing King Mengrai’s relics, was once enshrined here and many Chiang Mai people pay homage at this site during Lanna New Year (the Songkran Festival). Just 50m across Phrapokklao Road sits Wat Duangdee, one of the most famous temples in Chiang Mai’s Old Town. It has a reputation for granting devotees much prosperity, so many come here to make merit. Continuing your walk a hundred metres eastwards, you’ll come to
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Don’t Miss l The murals depicting Chiang Mai history in Wat Chiangman l The Great Hall of Wat Duangdee with its unique architecture
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Community Lifestyle and Handicrafts Route
Some may believe that there are no traditional places left in Chiang Mai’s Old Town, but actually there are many original communities living inside the walls of the moat. Start in the southern quarter of the city near Chiang Mai Gate; this neighbourhood is called Wat Pwuak Tam. Our recommended walk takes you from Wat Pwuak Tam, a focal point of this local community where rituals and social activities are performed, including the manufacture
of golden chattra – umbrellas used for decorations on Buddhist buildings. Here you can enjoy watching the neighbourhood artisans at work, cutting and caving gold metal plates from dawn to dusk. Also visit Pwuak Tam Krua Tong community museum; it features a variety of krua tong – gold objets d’art – from old style to contemporary. Wat Phan Wan, one of the most important temples among the community, is a quaint quiet venue. Check out the small temple inside the compound with its lovely stucco artistry. Wat Chang Taem, built in King Ti-lokarach’s reign is where Phra Jao Fon Saen Ha, one of Chiang Mai’s great Buddha images,is enshrined. Next, we move down the backstreets to find Wat Phra Chao Mengrai, built in the King Mengrai period and enshrining a Buddha image which is representative of him. This temple is an appropriate place for mediation practice in a peaceful environment. Wat Muang Ngeun Kong is a small Buddhist temple located in a center of Muang Nguen Kong community with a remarkable local style of Vihara and buddha image in Sai la, nirvana gesture, and a humble glass decoration in the hall. Wat Pwuak Hong a temple built by a group of artisans called Pwuak Hong. This temple has a beautiful and rare pagoda in chimney-like form.
Don’t Miss l Puak Tam-Khua Tong Museum located in Wat Puak Tam. It features steel-stenciled works, showing both traditional and contemporary designs. l See the delicate folk-style stucco in the Buddha image hall of Phra Chao Mengrai temple. 35
Route2
Community Lifestyle and Handicrafts Route
Route1
Following the Vestiges of the Lanna Dynasty
1. Three Kings Monument 2. Wat Inthakhin 3. King Mengrai Shine 4. Wat Duangdee 5. Wat Umong Maha Therachan 6. Wat Lamchang 7. Wat Chiangman 8. Wat Saen Muang Ma Luang 9. Khum Chao Burrirat Kaew Mung Muang 36
1.Wat Pwuak Tam 2. Wat Phan Wan 3. Wat Chang Taem 4. Wat Phra Chao Mengrai 5. Wat Muang Ngeun Kong 6. Wat Pwuak Hong
Route4
Chiang Mai and the History of the Kingdom of Lanna
1.Chiang Mai City Arts and Cultural Center 2.Lanna Folk Museum 3.Wat Phan Tao 4.Wat Chedi Luang 5.Wat Fon Soi
Route5 Route3
Appreciating Lanna Architecture
1.Wat Prasat 2.Wat Phra Sing 3.Wat Tung Yoo 4. Wat Chai Pra Kiat 5.Khum Chao Burirat 6.Khum Chao Rachabout
Sentry Duty – Inspecting the Moat, the City Walls, and the Watchtowers
1. Chang Phuak Gate 2. Jang Sri Phum 3.Thapae Gate 4. Jang Kha Tam 5. Chiang Mai Gat 6. Suan Prung Gate 7. Jang Ku Hueng 8. Suan Dok Gate 9. Jang Hua Rin
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Appreciating Lanna Architecture
For tourists who have an eye for architecture, this walking tour will take you around some of our city’s most spectacular ancient residences and traditional buildings, mostly starting during the era of the Lanna Kingdom and taking us up to colonial times (although Thailand was never colonized, we adopted many of the British and French architectural influences of that time). Head first to Wat Prasat (Arak Road Soi 5), where you’ll be impressed with the stunning Buddha Image Hall in this temple, typical
of the Buddhist architectural development of the Lanna Kingdom. Check out the sculpture of a horse with Chinese patterns and the photogenic pagoda connected to the Buddha image hall. Next we move on to Wat Phra Singh, arguably the most revered temple in northern Thailand. The famous statue, Phra Buddha Sihing, originally from Sri Lanka, is enshrined here. You can see some splendid Lanna architecture, including the hor trai or Scriptures Hall (located in front of the temple) and Wiharn Lai Kham where the Phra Buddha Sihing is housed. Head up Ratchadamnoen Road just 100m and on your left side you’ll come to Wat Tung Yoo, which was also built during the Mengrai Dynasty era. It is remarkable for its beautiful Lanna-style architectural details, especially the gable which is decorated with stucco and ‘ang-wa’ ancient glassware. Wat Chai Pra Kiat, originally called Wat Pa Kiat, was built in the period of Burmese domination. Continuing on this main road, you’ll come to Khum Chao Burirat (Maha Inthra), a stylish Manila-style building with colonial aspects. Observers often say it is the perfect combination of local Lanna design fused with Western architecture. Also see Khum Chao Rachabout (Som Pa Nimitra), a French colonial-style building located inside the AUA Language Center; it has a unique roof design and is in excellent condition.
Don’t Miss l Horse sculpture and pagoda at Wat Prasat; and Wiharn Lai Kham in Wat Phra Singh. l For people born in the Year of the Goat, you should take time to make merit at the Phra Buddha Sihing; it may bring you much prosperity.
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Chiang Mai and the History of the Kingdom of Lanna
Start at Chiang Mai City Arts and Cultural Center, an exhibition hall that presents the history of Chiang Mai and the Lanna Kingdom from past to present. Close by is Lanna Folk Museum, where you can observe the traditional way of life, rituals and beliefs of the Lanna people. Moving southwards on Prapokklao Road, you come to Wat Phan Tao, a teakwood temple constructed during the 19th-century era of King Mahot Prathet. Next to it is the magnificent Wat Chedi Luang, the largest pagoda in Northern Thailand. This temple hosts the city pillar which marks the auspicious spot from where Chiang Mai was born in the 13th century. Continuing another couple hundred metres you get to Wat Fon Soi, one of the city’s oldest temples with a 500-year-old pagoda guarding the entrance to the compound. 38
Don’t Miss l Chiang Mai Historical Exhibition at Chiang Mai City Arts and Cultural Center and the Chiang Mai Historical Center (directly behind). l The teak pediment with carved peacock, the symbol of the Lanna Dynasty
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Sentry Duty – Inspecting the Moat, the City Walls, and the Watchtowers
One of the unique aspects of Chiang Mai is that it was built as a citadel or fortress. It is a walled city, built in a square with a moat around it to defend it from invading hordes, most notably armies from Burma. To walk around the ramparts will take a couple of hours – it’s 7 km. Let’s start at Chang Phuak Gate (North Gate), the most auspicious gateway to the city, used by the royal family and for religious processions. We go eastwards along the moat to Jang Sri Phum, the most beautiful and complete watchtower which marks the northeast corner of the Old City. This is a very photogenic spot (try getting a pic of the old ramparts and the moat with a modern temple in the background). We then follow the moat to Thapae Gate, the eastern gate, an old trading hub and main focus of the city’s tourists. Continuing south we get to Jang Kha Tam, the southeastern corner. It is the lowest part of the moat and gathers most water (best place for locals to go fishing). Continue to Chiang Mai Gate, the southern entrance, which was originally the route connecting the city to Siam in the south, making it the most important commercial area. Many people, even locals, do not know that Chiang Mai actually has a fifth gate, Suan Prung Gate, which is located on the southern road. It was specifically opened as the exit point for carrying the bodies of the deceased out of the city. Close by
is Jang Ku Hueng, the fortress on the southwest corner. People used to believe that this area was inauspicious and therefore it hosted the city prison. Continuing along the moat heading north, we come to Suan Dok Gate, the western gate, which was once the location of the local king’s flower garden. Nowadays it is considered the most scenic part of the moat with green spaces and big shady trees. Finally, we get to the fourth and last corner of the moat, Jang Hua Rin, which is a collection point for water flowing downhill from Doi Suthep mountain.
Don’t Miss l The large rubber trees (over 100 years old) at Suan Prung and Suan Dok Gates, plus some sprawling Fan Palms at Jang Hua Rin. l At Jang Sri Phum, you should visit the city spirit shrine and the nikoratha tree or banyan tree, an auspicious landmark of Chiang Mai.
All information for these 5 Chiang Mai Old Town routes was supported by Pinkanakorn Development Agency. For more information, please visit: www.thainorthtour.com
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不夸张的说，人人来清迈旅游都不会放过游 古城。比起中国的古城景点，清迈古城真算不上大气 磅礴，也看不出多少宏伟的建筑，但清迈古城绝对算得 上是活在当下的“历史”。哪怕游客云云，也丝毫不影响它 超凡脱俗的清新之美，它始终是那样的与世无争，平淡而清 雅。清迈古城是整个清迈的城市缩影，有寺庙、博物馆、步行街和早市，以及众多 旅游不容错过的旅游景点。 本期清迈《阅游》旅游杂志将要带大家逛逛古城，以五种不同文化视角为基 础，结合五条《阅游》策划“新线路”，在古城中探寻那些历史与现代完美结合的 传奇故事。不论是自由走走还是骑自行车溜达，或者乘坐绿色观光巴士，都能轻松 带你穿越时光，回到“兰纳人之国”。
线路一：追寻兰纳王足迹 1296年，孟莱王创建都城清迈，在这个拥有720年历史的兰 纳古都，追寻兰纳王的足迹，我们要从三纪念碑说起。 1. 三王纪念碑 Three Kings Monument 是为了纪念南 蒙王、兰甘亨大帝和孟莱王共同结盟击退入侵者的胜利战功而建， 对于清迈人来说，这是佛主显灵，清迈才能得以安宁，所以至今任 有信众前来祭拜祈福。 2. 鹰塔秦寺 Wat Inthakhin 三王纪念碑右面是清迈神柱 寺庙——鹰塔秦寺，最早供奉清迈神柱的地方，如今神柱已经移至 柴迪隆寺。 3. 帕亚孟莱王纪念碑 King Mengrai Shine 这座神庙清 迈历史上不可遗忘的重要纪念碑，建于公元1317年，兰纳王朝帕亚 猜宋康王为孟莱王修建。 4. 端迪寺 Wat Duangdee 端迪寺的建筑特色是泰国佛寺 建筑上的传奇,同时也获得了最吉祥的名字——端迪，寓意幸运。 5. 乌蒙马哈特章寺 Wat Umong Maha Therachan 与 清迈城同时期建成，也是全泰国人都争相前来朝拜的吉祥寺庙之 一。 6. 澜沧寺 Wat Lamchang 清曼寺对面的澜沧寺，是早期 孟莱王在此饲养大象而得名的寺庙。 7. 清曼寺 Wat Chiangman 清迈第一座寺庙，孟莱王把 清曼寺建于自己的住所上方位，预示着佛教在兰纳王朝时期的崇高 地位。 40
漫游清迈 慢游清迈 悠悠古城 悠悠小城 令人印象深刻的五条古城游玩线路
8. 光明寺 Wat Saen Muang Ma Luang 建于帕亚孟 莱时期,位于古城以北。 9. 箜召布力兰(桥蒙曼) Khum Chao Burirat Kaew Mung Muang 箜召是古代大户人家的宅邸，西 方殖民地建筑风格，现在是清迈烟草管理部门的管辖范围。
旅行亮点： 清曼寺壁画保留了大量清迈建都时期的历史故事。
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曾经帝王家的训象园，如今的澜沧寺。
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线路二：有趣的清迈 地方民俗（帕登手工 艺社区） 以往我们所认识的古城，是经过后期再建或者是投入 大量资金，依历史记载修缮而成的“现代古城”。但对于清 迈古城来说，这是一处从未“动过手脚”的历史古城。 受到原始的社会职能分配的影响，划分处特定的生活 区域和公共区域，随着时代变迁虽有稍许改动和废除，但皇 族和贵族宅邸、寺庙、学校和村民社区等等似乎并未有多大 改动，尤其是帕登社区至清迈门社区一带，这里不仅拥有古 代文化遗址，更是典型现代清迈社区生活的代表。清迈门以 南保存旧时大量建筑原貌，特别是清迈门的“土地公神庙” ，至今任有村民经常在此祭拜。清迈门社区还汇聚了大量的
早期开始做小买卖的清迈人，现在看来都是经典清迈菜肴的 老字号啊！ 1. 帕登寺 Wat Pwuak Tam 帕登村民社区敬仰的 帕登寺，是历史上最早组织村民制作供奉佛主的锥形“顶 礼”和敬献皇室的“皇家锥形顶礼”的宗教场所，直到今天 从未间断。与此同时，历史悠久的帕登寺也是清迈重要的历 史文化象征之一。 2. 潘文寺 Wat Phan Wan古老的菩提树下，保有 历史沧桑的精致泥石灰浮雕舍利塔，至今仍是清迈门社区村 民祈福诵经之地。 3. 昌登寺 Wat Chang Taem 建于拉玛五世时期， 原名东登高卦塔昌皮猜寺，是清迈自古以来与民众息息相关 的寺庙。 4. 孟莱王神寺 Wat Phra Chao Mengrai 孟莱王 时期修建的孟莱王神寺，依旧保有孟莱王时期的佛教文化色 彩。 5. 蒙恩公寺 Wat Muang Ngeun Kong 小小的寺 庙是当地人至今都在使用的宗教中心场地，属兰纳建筑风 格，大殿旁的庙宇极具兰纳建筑特色之美，大多数的浮雕上 都嵌有折射出闪耀光束的玻璃碎片，供有各式各样的生肖泥 塑。 6. 帕宏寺 Wat Pwuak Hong 清迈史上第一处以 “帕”字命名的寺庙，少数不属于权贵阶层主张修建的寺庙 代表，在帕宏寺内能参观到与众不同的烟囱状舍利塔。
旅行亮点： 帕登寺博物馆 欣赏孟莱王神寺的泥石灰浮雕
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线路三：兰纳建筑之美
对东南亚建筑感兴趣的朋友要注意了，我 们即将以建筑为主要参观目地而开启特别的古城 之旅。从兰纳王朝时期的历史建筑开始，直到现 代兰纳建筑，我们将要从古城西门（松达门）进 入古城。松达门是皇族门通往御花园松达寺的大 门，这是一座自50年前修缮后，保存相当完好的红砖门。 1. 巴善寺 Wat Prasat 是清迈寺庙建筑的鼻祖，后期 其他寺院的建筑设计均以巴善寺为原型，包括建筑结构和外观设 计，引用了中国传统建筑特色，大塔位于寺院大殿后方位。 2. 帕辛寺 Wat Phra Singh 接下来您将走到著名的帕 辛寺，这是清迈王为自己的老父亲修建的寺庙，聘请了当时清迈 最顶级的建筑师傅和来自中国的壁画师傅共同设计完成。 3. 吞由寺 Wat Tung Yoo 紧接着到达孟莱王时期修建 的吞由寺，整个寺庙呈现出泥灰浆雕花装饰墙壁的壮观景象，极 为精致。 4. 瓦猜帕给寺 Wat Chai Pra Kiat 原名帕给寺，缅甸 统治清迈时期建立，寺中供奉五尊五千公斤黄金打造的大金佛， 相传祭拜大金佛方能消灾解难。 5. 箜召布里兰城主宅邸 Khum Chao Burirat (Maha Inthra) 径直往塔佩门方向走，即可到达清迈城主箜召 布里兰的私人宅邸，目前是免费开放的建筑博物馆，西方殖民地 建筑风格。 6. 箜召拉差布私人宅邸 Khum Chao Rachabout (Som Pa Nimitra) 距离箜召布里兰的私人宅邸不远处，一幢 法式建筑很显眼，那是箜召拉差布私人宅邸。距离著名标志性建 筑——塔佩门仅有几步之遥，这座城门历经沧桑，终于在1985年 得以原址原貌恢复。
旅行亮点：
l 清迈寺庙屋顶瓦片挂竹条和正殿后方位带舍利塔的建筑 特色在巴善寺和帕辛寺尤为突出。 l 帕辛寺也是泰国十二生肖寺庙中的属羊寺庙。
线路四：了解清迈历 史 探寻兰纳文化 我们在开篇就已经谈到，清迈 古城就像是一部活历史，720年的存在，似乎很遥远， 但有感觉近在咫尺，兰纳人的生存之道也自然形成了后 人不断去研究的文化。 1. 清迈历史艺术馆 Chiang Mai City Arts and Cultural Center 穿过街区，您将到达清迈历 史艺术馆，馆内展出多项兰纳王朝时期的历史文物，同 时通过有声视图介绍兰纳历史文化故事。 2. 兰纳地方文化博物馆 Lanna Folk Museum 看过清迈的历史，自然要看看何为“兰纳王朝”。这里 讲述了兰纳人的信仰、思想文化，展出多件生活用具及 穿戴饰品，结合清迈自然环境，还原“真实的兰纳社 会”。 3. 潘道寺 Wat Phan Tao 箜召布里兰城主宅 邸 对面是潘道寺，一座运用皇家御所木材，全柚木搭建 的寺庙。 4. 柴迪隆寺 Wat Chedi Luang 走出潘道寺继 续往南则会到达著名的柴迪隆寺，又名“大塔寺”，因 大殿后方的传奇大塔而得名，历经战乱和地震等自然灾 害，大塔由最初的98米破损至今仅有42米高。尽管这座 饱经沧桑的舍利塔早已破损过半，但它的雄伟和庄严总 会令人产生无限遐想。 5. 凤岁寺 Wat Fon Soi 我想你应该不会错过 超过500年的老庙——凤岁寺，一座建于1487年的传奇 寺庙，之后我们最终到达50年前修建的清迈门市场。
旅行亮点： l 清迈历史文化展览位于清迈历史艺术馆，展馆 前面既是清迈历史博物馆。 l 柚木雕花孔雀是古代兰纳王室的象征。 l 古老的清迈门市场，至今仍是当地人最重要的 食物汇聚及小商品交易比较集中的市场。
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线路五：看城墙遗址 忆兰纳皇族辉煌
在我印象中，泰国自古把都城建成四方形，至今仍旧 保存下来的城市非常少。我去过拥有古城墙和护城河的南奔 府，但似乎也不是四方形；我去过距离清迈稍远的小县 城——袍县，确实是以四方形为中心，但并没有城墙和护城 河。也只有在清迈才看到规划整齐的护城河首尾相连的四方 古城，并且有妥善保存的城门和四角城墙。
1. 昌普门 Chang Phuak Gate 从清迈北门开始，这里 被称为“昌普门”，昌普译为“大象的头”，是清迈古城的 城头和吉祥之门，兰纳王朝时期，专属于国王的入城之门， 也是创建清迈古城的起始点。 2. 杰西蓬城墙 Jang Sri Phum 清迈古城东北角城墙， 保存最完善的城墙，清迈最美的城墙一角，也是清迈古城的 第一座城墙。 3. 塔佩门 Thapae Gate 塔佩门正对东方，也是古代皇 室成员的专用通道，因为20年前维护修缮过，所以大家今天 才能看到如此完整的城门。 4. 杰卡单城墙 Jang Kha Tam 清迈古城西北方向的城 墙角，是古城整体海拔的最低点，所以护城河的水都会汇聚 于此。 5. 清迈门 Chiang Mai Gate 清迈门位于古城以南， 是古城通往南方郊区县城的主要通道，至今仍有大量公交车 在 清 迈 门 停 靠 ， 负 责 拉 载 南 边 村 子 的 村 民 前 来 清 迈 门 市 场购物。 6. 松蓬门 Suan Prung Gate 清迈人私下称松蓬门 为“鬼门”，并不是说这里闹鬼，而是这道门是从城里寺庙 通往火葬场的特殊通道。这也仅仅是民族风俗，丝毫并不影 响人们对这座城市的眷恋。 7. 杰谷亨城墙 Jang Ku Hueng 清迈古城西南角城 墙，在古代这里被用于行刑之地。 8. 松达门 Suan Dok Gate 体现兰纳建筑特色之一的 城门，也是古代皇室成员通往后花园的专用通道，至今仍然 保留了大量的古砖和百年老树。 9. 杰华林城墙 Jang Hua Rin 这是清迈护城河水的起 点，来自素贴山的泉水流经杰华林城墙，环绕护城河形成我 们今天看到的四方护城河。
旅行亮点： 松蓬门、松达门以及杰华林城墙角可以看到上百年历 史的龙涎香树。 l 古城东南角锡蓬门可以看到清迈的百年菩提树。 l
关于清迈古城的更多详细信息请参看
www.thainorthtour.com
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泰北 风味虾酱汤
แกงแค (Ka
eng Khae ) Mixed Veg etables w Northern it Spices h
森林植 被 山地区 丰富的泰北高 ，山地 野菜成 当地最 了 得 配最具 意的食材，搭 泰国海 岛风情 虾酱， 的 香辣 浓浓泰 适度，充满 北风味 。 食材
猪肉1碗、植物油2汤匙、红瓜叶2碗、椰汁芯切碎 1碗、天文草1碗、臭菜叶半碗、四棱豆半碗、豇豆半 碗
小妙招： 每种山地蔬菜都有强身健体的药用价值， 泰北菜少油的特色是健康饮食理念比较推崇的特色之一。 根据草本植物药理适合在换季的季节食用，强身健体。
汤料 干辣椒7颗、高良姜碎1汤匙、香茅草2汤匙、泰国 红蒜6颗、虾酱1汤匙、香菜根碎1茶匙、泰国鱼酱2茶 匙、食盐少许
做法 1.把全部汤料配料捣碎备用。 2.猪肉切块（小块）备用。 3.炒锅开火烧热，倒入植物油和汤料翻炒至出香 味。 4.倒入猪肉继续翻炒，待猪肉快熟透即可加入适量 高汤。 5.把全部蔬菜倒入锅中，适当加入需要的食盐，煮 熟即可装盘出锅。 44
Aroon Rai Restaurant 清迈老字号泰餐厅 营业时间：11:30am. - 9:30pm. 扫描二维码 回复 “泰北风味虾酱汤” 【保存制作方法 链接品尝店家及地址】
泰北 酸辣米线
งี้ยว ขนมeจeีนnนN�้ำaเm Ngiao)
(Kanom J y Pork with Spic s le d o o N Rice Sauce 能
迈 ，在清 人来说 中国云 国南方 起 中 想 于 对 总会 南 米线， 和中国 北酸辣 辣口味 吃到泰 酸 的 不 国 然 泰 截 但 感 ， 口 南米线 的米线 代 一 、 及缅北 红番茄 方，以 血膏、 见。 块的鸡 可 大 晰 ， 同 肉末清 和猪脚 木棉花
食材 泰国酸米线1千克、猪绞肉末500克、猪排骨500 克、鸡血膏500克、小番茄500克、干木棉花10朵、豆 豉3汤匙、植物油1/2杯
汤料 干辣椒10颗、香菜根10颗、蒜10颗、红蒜头10 颗、虾酱3汤匙、食盐3茶匙
配菜配料 蒜末爆香、香菜、小葱、油爆干小米辣、柠檬、 汆熟的豆芽菜、泰国酸菜
做法 1.土锅煮水，汤开下排骨熬汤，二次汤开去除白 沫。 2.把准备好的汤料倒入石臼中舂碎备用，然后用 炒锅添油爆香汤料，加入豆豉翻炒，最后倒入猪绞肉 末翻炒熟透。
3.把翻炒完毕的汤料倒入正在烹煮的高汤中，加入干 木棉花、鸡血和小番茄，5分钟后起锅。 4.食用方法：根据个人食量盛米线，把煮好的酸辣汤 浇在米线上，最后按照自己的喜好加入配菜。
小妙招：除了鸡血膏，还可以用猪血膏代替，油泼 辣子和泰北酸辣米线也很配哦！
Huen Phen Restaurant 清迈老字号泰北菜餐厅 营业时间：9:00am.-10:00pm. 扫描二维码 回复 “泰北酸辣米线” 【保存制作方法 链接品尝店家及地址】
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great finds
Varee Herbal Delight Package 瓦瑞草本美容护肤套餐Varee Herbal Delight Package
Set on the 4th floor of Duangtawan Hotel, Varee Spa offers you true relaxation with a natural science therapy called the “Varee Herbal Delight Package” which will ensure you are relieved from fatigue from head to toe. Start the first step with a foot massage in warm water alongside a food detox; this brings gentle relaxation while stimulating the organs of the body. Then settle down for a body scrub with coffee and coconut, something that will help expand blood vessels and remove dead skin. Coconut contains many vitamins that benefit dry skin and wipe away wrinkles. The last step is a natural oil massage with four sensuous aromatic oils.
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Throughout November, the Varee Herbal Delight Package is available at Varee Spa from 10am to 10pm. The treatment takes 120 minutes and costs 1,350 Baht net or just 2,500 net for two persons.
For more information and reservations, call 0-5390- 5000 ext 7.
瓦瑞水疗中心位于清迈Duangtawan酒店四楼，是泰北兰纳特色温泉水疗的 标志，也是泰国民族医疗和传统医学完美结合的特色产品。瓦瑞水疗中心拥有6间 私人理疗房间和3间泰式按摩室以及两个独立桑拿房，同时配有手部及足部护理。 瓦瑞水疗近期推出的瓦瑞草本美容护肤套餐，旨在为您提供真正的放松与草 本护肤Varee Herbal Delight Package，让您摆脱一身疲劳。本套餐会从足部护理 及按摩开始，同时提供食物排毒，运用穴位按摩刺激体验者身体的相关器官。其 次采用咖啡和椰子磨砂，有助于去除死皮，舒筋活血。 采用含有多种维生素的椰子按摩，不仅有益于干性皮肤，还能达到有效消除 皱纹的功效，最后运用天然芳香精油疗法达到机体平衡。
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great finds
The Plaza Outlet Mall Chiangmai THE PLAZA 奥特莱斯购物中心
This super shopping zone is situated in the city center of Chiang Mai, near the Night Bazaar. The Plaza offers a wide range of products and a variety of boutiques, including fashion, beauty, home decor and crafts shops, as well as imported clothing at Thaisin Export, De Export and soon to be opened The K Fashion Outlet. What’s more, shoppers can browse for leading brand goods at Boots and Make Up More, then sit down afterwards for a nice meal at Pizza Hut.
The Plaza Outlet Mall Chiangmai 100/1Changklan Rd., Muang, Chiang Mai Open daily: 11am - 10pm Tel. 0-5328-3085
清迈市中心的奥特来斯时尚品牌购物中心,位于清迈长康夜市主干道上，多款特 价工厂直销商品任您挑选。目前购物中心分为两个重要卖场区域，位于地下室的 FN Outlet 主推泰国市场的特价生活用品，以及位于临街商铺的 Lifestyle Outlet In Town 购物中心主推清迈旅游市场，拥有著名美妆连锁Boots店和Make Up More 多多化妆 品伴手礼店，以及Bata鞋业和泰国特色工艺品品牌店等等，件件都来自清迈本地商 家，最能代表清迈的特色精品。
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Fah Lanna Spa 梵兰纳精油水疗馆 Fah Lanna Spa
Fah Lanna Spa is an award-winning day spa in the heart of the historical Old City of Chiang Mai. This very spacious and beautifully landscaped spa boasts a traditional Lanna style and has 25 individual treatment rooms. Each room or spa villa is individually designed and decorated, inspired by a famous site within the ancient kingdom of Lanna. The spa recently received an excellence award by Thailand’s tourism authorities – a testimony to supreme service and soothing treatments.
Fah Lanna Spa 57/1 Wiang Kaew Rd., Chiang Mai Open daily: 10am–10pm Tel. 0-5341- 6191 来自兰纳皇族后裔的梵兰纳精油水疗馆，清迈古城内为数不多的特色精品水疗馆之一，以兰纳传统建筑风格为导向， 精心打造美丽花园和宽敞大气的水疗空间，让体验者瞬间进入雨林般的世界。梵兰纳精油水疗馆拥有25间精品 水疗房，每间水疗房及水疗别墅均有各自独特的设计和装饰，创作灵感来自兰纳王朝时期的民族文化。Fah Lanna Spa 水疗馆提供平衡理疗精品SPA，以及特色泰式古法按摩，并以优质的服务获得本年度泰国旅游部门颁发的卓越奖。
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great finds
Festival Garden Chiang Mai 清迈风情园 Festival garden chiangmai
Festival Garden Chiang Mai is a delightful venue that showcases Thailand’s favorite festivals and attractions. Visitors will be especially enticed by an invitation to share and participate in events such as Songkran, the water festival, and Loy Krathong, the most charming traditional event of the year, featuring candle-lit boats. Enjoy Thai cultural dances and other performances in national costume - a spectacular and memorable occasion for all the family. Show times at 1 pm, 2pm and 3 pm.
Festival Garden Chiang Mai Outer Ring Road, Junction 3, Mae Kwang Intersection (previously the HoT-air balloon location) Tel. 0-61273-5666, 0-8825-1 2445 Facebook:
สวนประเพณีเชียงใหม่
清迈最具民族特色的旅游景点之一， 旅客能在这里参与各种特色民俗活动，体验 泰国宋干节和水灯节等泰国节日气氛。 大家能够观看到难得一见的泰国民间 民俗舞蹈，并且在活动演员的带领下，参与 其中，共同庆祝充满泰国风情的民族节日， 为您的旅行留下难忘的体验和美好的记忆。
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Decathlon 迪卡侬运动品牌Decathlon For those who love sports, fitness, and the great outdoors, let Decathlon be your helper. With more than 5,000 pieces of equipment supporting over 50 sports, Decathlon is indeed a sports and adventure paradise which aims to make the pleasure and benefits of health and fitness accessible to all. Decathlon places innovation at the heart of activities – from research to retail, including design,production and logistics. And all its sportswear is listed at the lowest possible prices. Products are suitable for all levels from beginners to professional athletes, and staff are always on hand to offer advice. What’s more, Decathlon also provides a space to try out activities including table tennis, basketball, roller skating and more.
Decathlon Store Tesco Lotus (Hang Dong) 132, Moo 1, Chiangmai–Hangdong Rd., Muang, Chiang Mai Open daily: 9am–10pm Tel. 0-5206- 0990
来自法国的大型连锁运动品牌量贩店，有米歇尔雷克乐于1976年创 立，至今已在全球28个国家，包括中国和泰国曼谷，开设1176家实体商 店。迪卡侬清迈店于去年开业，位于清迈杭东易初莲花超市内，对于喜欢 运动的朋友来说，可谓惊喜万分。走进迪卡侬清迈店反佛畅游眼花缭乱 的冒险乐园，多款专业运动服装及器具分区域陈列，客人完全可以根据 自己的需要快速找到中意的选购区。与此同时，各种运动服饰及器具 均有试用产品，大大减少了客人盲选的误区。或许正是得益于清迈 得天独厚的天然屏障，使得人们更加注重通过运动改善自身健 康。所以说，迪卡侬清迈店的如期而至乃是众望所归。
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Natureof Trails At this most beautiful time of the year, you will want to get and about and into the countryside to enjoy some of Chiang Mai’s natural delights. But perhaps you don’t want to camp or carry a heavy tent or backpack; you just want to get away from the big city for a day and be back tucked up in your bed by nightfall. OK, here is a couple of suggestions – routes you can conquer by motorbike, car bicycle or taxi, and they’re both less than an hour from town. So, get your boots on and get out and appreciate the rainforest, the mountains and the flora.
Route 1
Chiang Mai–Mae Rim–Samoeng Loop Late morning Take a drive to Mae Rim district, which is about 10 km north of Chiang Mai city. Mae Rim has many natural attractions and adventure activities such as waterfalls, elephant camps, insect museums (Siam Insect Zoo), flower parks and most popular of all – the X-Center, where you can bungee jump, race go-karts, play paintball, xorb ball, ride ATVs and much more.
Lunch Thong Ma Gallery is an art gallery displaying beautiful sculptures by artist Chamnien Thongma. It also has a cafe and delicious Thai restaurant. Nearby is the Ironwood, a bistro with a lush garden decorated with vintage furniture. (Read in Top 10 Restaurants in Chiang Mai)
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Afternoon Queen Sirikit Botanic Garden is a great choice for you to enjoy the natural surroundings along with several beautiful spots for taking photos. The landmarks not to be missed are the Tropical Greenhouse, Cactus Nursery and Canopy Walkway, which is a raised platform and corridor high above the forest from where you can take in some panoramic vistas.
Evening Dine with traditional Thai food at a restaurant close to a lake: Grandma’s Kitchen, inside the Mae Rim Lagoon Hotel (opposite Four Seasons Hotel).
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Morning-Late morning The most beautiful flower garden in Chiang Mai is the Royal Park Rajapruek. It’s open daily from 8am to 6pm and has a tram service around the park. If you want to take a picture, just tell driver and he’ll stop exactly where you want and you can jump off, then wait a few minutes for the next carriage. Or, a novel idea, try a segway! This is a great way to scoot around the flower gardens.
Lunch Next to the Royal Park (Doi Kham road) is the Royal Project Restaurant – Dee Aroi, which serves up delicious dishes combined from the natural ingredients of several Royal projects.
Coffee in the afternoon Sep Silp Klin Café or Kafe Bannok Coffee Shop is an unrivaled venue where you can sit in the midst of nature. They have even set up tables in the middle of a stream so you can sip a coffee or pot of tea while your feet immerse in cold water. The coffee shop is located at the 12km marker beyond the Samoeng–Hang Dong intersection. This is also a spectacular place for photography with beautiful mountain scenery. You can also try another beautiful coffee shop called Tha Chang Hill, which is situated near the 18km marker on the same road.
Afternoon-Evening If you visit Chiang Mai during January and February, the best activity we can recommend is picking strawberries at any of the numerous farms on the Hang Dong–Samoeng Road. Huay Phak Phai Rose Garden in Thung Reong Royal Project is a must-see place, especially popular with ladies, for its gorgeous English-style rose garden. It also has a nice café for sipping afternoon tea with snacks in a cozy and pleasant atmosphere. You should also visit Floral Creek, a nearby flower garden surrounded by attractive architecture that makes you feel like you’re living in a peaceful countryside in Europe. The Floral Creek belongs to Krisada Doi, a famous resort in Chiang Mai that has been around for generations. Information on these two routes was kindly provided by Chiang Mai Tourism Office.
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姑娘们的旅行 玩转相机下的清迈美景 最好的旅行方式，是让自己回到最初的开 始。我们常说人类不是独立存在的生命体，人类与 大自然息息相关，当人类学会更多技能，试图尝试 更多不依赖大自然也能生存的时候，是不是我们距 离大自然越来越遥远了呢？或许把现代生活以旅行 的方式带回稍微原生态的状态，欢乐惬意的情绪自 然伴随左右。 本期清迈《阅游》旅游杂志将带大家一同领 略从“繁忙都市”到“返璞归真的时尚”，适合 “姐妹淘儿”的清迈丛林之旅，没有旅行包，没有 登山设备，更不需要准备干粮，只需带上最美的自 己。 出行方式：自驾游、包出租车游、摩托车游 推荐路线：湄林度假区-蓬岩高山村落（清迈 北线） 市区-杭东县-沙蒙（清迈南线）
湄甘博村-湄林度假区-蓬岩高山村落 清晨晌午 清晨在 Mae Kampong 湄甘博村醒来，这是 一处让人回归原始森林的村落，清新的空气叫人意 犹未尽，我们即将驱车前往 Mae Rim 湄林度假 区。这是一处距离清迈城只有10公里的特色度假线 路，当地人把户外运动与原始森林相结合，最大努 力保护森林的同时，还能让游客远离城市的喧嚣， 放松愉悦。参观大象营瀑布、昆虫博物花园、高山 珍贵花卉，如果姑娘们喜欢户外挑战，X-Center应 该是大家的不二之选，蹦极、卡丁车、山地车训练 场和实战等多种选择。
艺术午餐 Thongma Studio 是艺术家“铜马”的工作 室，但更像艺术馆，比起画廊来说，铜马艺术工作 室让画面活儿了，不论装饰设计和摆件，件件都是 精品，每个角落都能让普通人拍出完美的艺术摄 影。这里有咖啡、食物和茶点，姑娘们一定会爱上 这里。铜马工作室隔壁是 The Ironwood 铁 艺花 房，我们像是闯进童话故事里的小猫儿一样，好 奇、轻手轻脚，生怕踩伤半片落叶。
悠闲下午 同样是艺术家们钟情的“仙人掌玻璃房”位 于湄林诗丽吉皇后大花园内，当下最网红的艺术摄 影都会再此取景，泰国新婚夫妇也会选择在这里的 Canopy Walkway 空中走廊拍摄婚纱照，气候宜 人，风景壮观。
姑娘们的烂漫晚餐 没有喧嚣吵杂，没有霓虹闪烁的街区，姑娘 们不用乔装打扮，更不用伪装设防，在这寂静的大 山里只有彼此交心的好友，留宿 Baan Mon Muan 山涧度假民居，这里有泰味餐厅和无法比拟的高山 美景，假如大家需要返回城里，即可前往khun Yai Yai Kitchen“大奶奶厨房”餐厅享受河滩夜色下的古 老泰餐，位于Mea Rim Lagoon Hotel湄林拉姑酒店内。
市区-杭东县-沙蒙 清晨晌午 清迈皇家花博园拥有全泰国最美和数量最多 的鲜花，很难有哪里花园级别能超越这里，每天 8:00-18:00营业，每天固定时段的观光车在园区巡 游，大家可以在各个小院里拍照游览。最有趣的参 观方式是脚踏“赛格威”电动车，姐妹们一同前往 各个景区。
午餐 如果不是亲自来到 Royal Project Restaurant 花博园皇家项目餐厅，我想我不会那么有兴趣推荐 这里，这里没有十分惊艳的美景，但却有此生最值 得品尝的泰式健康料理。对于各位美女来说，皇家 项目蔬菜的口碑可谓人人称赞，能在花博园附近的 皇家项目餐厅吃上一口地道的清迈菜，品一壶“七 味花草茶”，包您一身清爽。
山里的创意咖啡馆 我们常说，我想去山里静静！这真的是想去 沙蒙山里好好的静一静。所有在清迈长住的朋友们 多多少少都会对沙蒙熟悉，因为这里有太多消磨时 光的特色咖啡馆。比如Kafe Bannok“班诺咖啡” ，意思是乡下的咖啡馆，当然这里可不“乡下” 哦，到处都是古董收藏，重点是咖啡馆中央是可以 泡脚的大池子。距离清迈城112公里，除此之外， 再往山里走，还有 Thachang Hill Coffee & Café 和 可以远眺山景的 Max Coffee。沿路还有相当地道的 沙蒙山里人农家菜馆。
夕阳西下时分 如果大家是在一二月份来到清迈，正是沙蒙 山里草莓成熟的季节，姑娘们一定会非常喜欢。但 十一月水灯节期间来清迈，正是气候最凉爽的季 节，通乐皇家项目玫瑰园里的玫瑰正打朵儿，不妨 坐下来品一杯咖啡，感受玫瑰园里的清新。或是前 往 Floral Creek 清迈芙洛拉小溪度假村，感受沙蒙 山里的欧式风情小镇。 感谢! 特别鸣谢清迈泰国国家旅游局
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= SHOPPING =
PARASU GEMS When you deserve something precious Parasu Gems has been creating quality diamond jewelry gemstones around the world for more than 20 years. Each piece comes in a beautiful design made by skilled technicians. It can be made to order or you can choose from a variety of jewelry displayed in the shop. Each item is quality guaranteed and will certainly serve as a precious gift for you or someone special in your life.
PARASU GEMS
Room 261, 2nd Floor CentralPlaza Chiang Mai Airport, Mahidol Rd., A.Muang, Chiang Mai E-mail: parasugems@hotmail.com Tel: 0-5320-1949, 0-5390-3639
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帕拉素.姬 珠宝
清迈帕拉素.姬（Parasu Gems）珠宝，是清迈本地老字 号珠宝厂商，产品远销国内外，是国际珠宝行业认可的少数 泰国珠宝厂商之一，营业历史长达20年之久。不论在珠宝设 计还是工艺切割技术上，堪称完美。只有在拥有多年专业经 验的师傅手下，精美的珠宝才能如期展示在世人面前。珠宝 有价，情义无价，正因有诸多变幻莫测的复杂工艺，方能体 现珠宝首饰的来之不易。帕拉素姬珠宝展示厅拥有多款珠宝 任您挑选，最能代表清迈的特色民族工艺，也是清迈旅行的 最佳伴手礼。 帕拉素姬珠宝门店：清迈尚泰机场商场二楼 电话：0-5320-1949, 0-5390-3639
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AIRLINE SCHEDULES THAI AIRWAYS INTERNATIONAL
NOK AIR CHIANG MAI - BANGKOK (DON MUANG)
CHIANG MAI TO BANGKOK TG103
1005
1125
Daily
TG105
1040
1155
Daily
TG 111
1520
1635
Daily
TG 117
1920
2040
Daily
TG121
2050
2210
Daily
TG 2177
0615
0730
Daily
TG 5947
0655
0815
Daily
TG 5949
1000
1120
Daily
TG 5951
1145
1305
Daily
TG 2161
1220
1330
Daily
TG 5953
1410
1530
Daily
TG 2169
1500
1615
Daily
TG 5955
1715
1835
Daily
TG 2165
1725
1840
Daily
TG 5957
1910
2030
Daily
TG 5959
2140
2300
Daily
TG 2167
2155
2310
Daily
DD8301 DD8303 DD8307 DD8311 DD8313 DD8315 DD8319 DD8325 DD8327
0745 0830 1045 1230 1425 1525 1810 2110 2210
0850 0935 1150 1340 1530 1630 1915 2220 2320
DD8300 DD8302 DD8306 DD8310 DD8312 DD8314 DD8318 DD8316
0605 0650 0905 1040 1240 1340 1630 1705
0715 0800 1015 1155 1350 1450 1740 1840
0830
0950
Daily
TG 110
1315
1425
Daily
TG 2168
0700
0815
Daily
TG 5946
0800
0915
Daily
CHIANG MAI TO BANGKOK
TG 2160
1020
1135
Daily
TG 5950
1210
1325
Daily
TG 5954
1510
1625
Daily
TG 2164
1540
1655
Daily
TG 5956
1710
1825
Daily
PG 222 PG 216 PG 224 PG 907 PG 226 PG 220 PG228
TG 2166
1950
2105
Daily
BANGKOK TO CHIANG MAI
2335
Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily
Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily
Chiang Mai International Airport, 1st Fl. Tel. (053) 922 183 www.nokair.com
TTG 104
2220
CHIANG MAI TO BANGKOK
BANGKOK (DON MUANG) CHIANG MAI
BANGKOK TO CHIANG MAI
TG 2176
THAI AIR ASIA
BANGKOK AIRWAYS
PG215 PG270 PG262 PG906 PG227 PG221
Daily
THAI AIRWAYS (DOMESTIC): 240 Prapokklao Rd., Muang, Chiang Mai Tel. (053) 920 921 -34, (053) 920 999 www.thaiairways.com
0655 1000 1145 1410 1715 1910 2140 0800 0945 1510 1710 1935 2115
0815 1120 1305 1530 1835 2030 2300 0915 1100 1625 1825 2050 2230
Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily
CHIANG MAI - SAMUI PG242
1250
1435
Daily
SAMUI - CHIANG MAI PG241
1020
1210
Daily
CHIANG MAI - PHUKET PG248
1430
1640
Daily
PHUKET - CHIANG MAI PG 247
1130
1340
Daily
Chiang Mai Office: 2nd Fl., Chiang Mai International Airport, A. Muang, Chiang Mai 50000. Tel. (053) 281 519 Fax: (053) 281 520. www.bangkokair.com
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FD3416 FD3437 FD3443 FD3435 FD3447 FD3441 FD3433 FD3445 FD3431 FD3439 FD3425 FD3427 FD3429 FD3419
0510 0635 0820 1030 1135 1225 1345 1450 1545 1655 1930 2035 2125 2140
0625 0750 0940 1140 1255 1345 1500 1605 1700 1810 2045 2150 2235 2255
Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily
BANGKOK TO CHIANG MAI FFD3416 FD3437 FD3443 FD3435 FD3447 FD3441 FD3433 FD3445 FD3431 FD3439 FD3425 FD3427 FD3429 FD3419
0510 0635 0820 1030 1135 1225 1345 1450 1545 1655 1930 2035 2125 2140
0625 0750 0940 1140 1255 1345 1500 1605 1700 1810 2045 2150 2235 2255
Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily Daily
CHIANG MAI - PHUKET FD3160 FD3162 FD3168
0610 0610 2145
0810 0810 2350
Daily Daily Daily
PHUKET - CHIANG MAI FD3159 FD3161 FD3167
0840 1035 1920
1040 1230 2115
Daily Daily Daily
CHIANG MAI - HAT YAI FD3064 FD408
0625 1450
0820 1700
Daily Daily
HAT YAI - CHIANG MAI FD3065 FD409
0900 1740
1110 1930
Daily Daily
CHIANG MAI - KRABI FD3070 FD3074
1150 1600
1350 1805
Daily Daily
KRABI - CHIANG MAI FD3071 FD3075
1450 1845
1645 2035
Daily Daily
CHIANG MAI - SURATTHANI FD5422 FD5420
0715 1110
0905 1300
Daily Daily
SURATTHANI - CHIANG MAI FD5423 FD5421
0935 1330
1120 1515
Daily Daily
For Reservations: Tel. (053) 922 170 www.airasia.com
THAI LION AIR CHIANG MAI TO BANGKOK (Don
CHIANG MAI TO BANGKOK
Muang International Airport)
(สุวรรณภูมิ)
SL525
0650
SILK AIR
THAI SMILE
0805
Daily
WE177
CHIANG MAI - SINGAPORE MI705
0615
1730
Daily
SL523
0800
0915
Daily
WE161
1220
1330
Daily
SL507
1015
1145
Daily
WE169
1500
1615
Daily
SL509
1140
1255
Daily
WE165
1725
1840
Daily
SL511
1330
1445
Daily
WE 167
2155
2310
Daily
SL513
1545
1700
Daily
SL515
1710
1830
Daily
SL517
1805
1935
Daily
BANGKOK (Don Muang International Airport) TO CHIANG MAI
BANGKOK(สุวรรณภูมิ)
TO CHIANG MAI WE 168
0700
0815
WE 160
1020
1135
Daily
WE 164
1540
1655
Daily
0855
0935
Daily
WE 166
1950
2105
Daily
SL510
1130
1245
Daily
WE 176
2220
2335
Daily
SL512
1340
1455
Daily
SL514
1505
1610
Daily
SL516
1550
1705
Daily
WE171
SL522
2010
2110
Daily
SL524
2225
2355
Daily
PHUKET - CHIANG MAI
Thai Lionair Call Center: 89/46 Vibhavadi Rangsit Road., Sanambin Sub-District, Don Muang District, Bangkok 10210. Tel. 02-142-9988, 02-529-9999 www.lionairthai.com
CHIANG MAI - PHUKET
WE272
1235
1135
1435
2145
Mon/Sun
MI706
1450
1650
Sun
132 Central Duangtawan Hotel, Loykroh Rd.,T. Changklan Tel. (053) 904 985-7 Fax: (053) 904 988 www.silkair.com
Daily
SL506
0940
1740
SINGAPORE - CHIANG MAI
LAO AIRLINES CHIANG MAI - LUANG PRABANG QV 636
Daily
1530
1630
Mo/We/Fr/Su
LUANG PRABANG - CHIANG MAI QV 635
1350
1450
Mo/We/Fr/Su
Daily
Chiang Mai International Airport, A. Muang, Chiang Mai 50000. Tel. (02) 118 8888 www. thaismileair.com
Lao AIRLINES Office: Nakorn Ping Condo 1st Fl., 2/107 Ratchapluek Rd., T.Chang Puak, A. Muang, Chiangmai 50300Tel. (053) 223 401 Fax: (053) 223 400. E-mail: <qvcnx@loxinfo.co.th> www.laoairlines.com
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KOREAN AIR
2355
0650+ 1
Sun/Wed/ Thu/Sat
SEOUL - CHIANG MAI KE 667
1840
DRAGONAIR
CHIANG MAI - YANGON
CHIANG MAI - SEOUL KE 668
AIR BAGAN
2240
Sun/Wed/
W9 608
1720
1810
CHIANG MAI - HONG KONG Sun/Tue/Thu
YANGON - CHIANG MAI W9 607
1420
1610
Tue/Thu/Sun
KA233
1120
1500
KA233
1315
1655
Tue Fri
KA233
1745
2120
Sat
KA233
1820
2210 Sat/Sun/Mon/
Thu/Sat
Reservation and more information: Tel. (053) 922 556, (053) 922 557, (02) 635 0465 www.koreanair.com
Wed/Thu
more information: Tel. (053) 284 985-6, (083) 178 7771 Fax. (053) 284 986 www.airbagan.com
HONGKONG EXPRESS
CHINA EASTERN AIRLINES
MU2594
1755
2025
Daily
MU2596
1850
2120
Daily
KUNMING - CHIANG MAI 1600
1635
Daily
MU2595
1640
1715
Daily
more information: Tel. (02) 636 6980, (02) 134 2101 www.flychinaeastern.com
UO754
1930
2315
UO753
1650
1845
Th/Fr/Sa/Su
MORE INFORMATION: Tel. (02) 634 2552 GSA: AVS Express Co., Ltd., Email: sasatron.i@waa.co.th www.hkexpress.com
in Chiang Mai
138 Charoen Prathet Rd. Tel. (053) 275 277, http://afthailande.org /en/chiang-mai-branch/
领事馆 Consulate of Australia 236 Chiang Mai - Doi Saket Rd., Sansai district Tel. (053) 492 426 Consulate of Austria 15 M.1 Huay Kaew Rd. Tel. (053) 400 231 Consulate of Canada 151 Superhighway Chiang Mai – Lampang Rd., T. Tasala Tel. (053) 840 147
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Fri Sat/Sun/ Mon/Wed/Thu
*AVAILABLE ON THE WEBSITE Manit Transport Co., Ltd (GSA), 143 Rajchawong Rd., T. Changmoi, A. Muang, Chiang Mai 50300 Tel. (053) 252 988 Fax. (053) 251 417 www.dragonair.com
Mo/Tu/
Consulate of France (Alliance Francaise)
104-112 Tha Pae Rd. Tel. (053) 234 777
1005 1735
We/Th/Fr/Sa/Su
Consulates
Consulate of Finland
0805 1520
HONG KONG - CHIANG MAI
MU2593
111 Chang Lo Rd., T.Haiya Tel. (053) 274 614, http://chiangmai.chineseconsulate.org
KA232 KA232
CHIANG MAI - HONG KONG
CHIANG MAI - KUNMING
Consulate General of China
HONG KONG - CHIANG MAI
Consulate of Germany 199/163 Ban Nai Fun 2, Canal Rd. Tel: 053-838735 Consulate of India 33/1 Thung Hotel Rd., T. Wat Ket Tel. (053) 247 879, www.indianembassy.in.th
**airlines’ schedules are sometimes changed at short notice. Please call the phone to check the confirmed schedules.
Consulate of Peru 362/30 Charoenrat Rd. Usa Faham Village Tel. (053) 306 358 Consulate of the Philippines 176 M.3 San Phranet, Sansai Tel. (053) 351 278 Consulate of Portugal 88/58 Supalai Moda San Phi Suea Tel. (053) 106 147 Consulate of South Korea
Consulate of Italy
V-Group Building, Floor 3, |Huay Kaew Rd. Tel. (053) 223 119-23 ext. 204
101/136 Intawarorot Rd. Tel. (053) 212 925
Consulate of Sweden
Consulate General of Japan Room No.104-107 Airport Business Park, 90 Mahidol Rd. Tel. (053) 203 373, www.chiangmai.th.emb-japan.go.jp Consulate General of Myanmar 9/4 Maneenopparat Soi 3 T. Sriphum, Muang district Tel. (053) 216 191
186/84 Green Valley, Moo 5, Mae Rim district Tel. (053) 298 632 Consulate of Switzerland 153 Sridonchai Rd., T. Chang Klan Tel. (053) 283 900 Consulate General of the United States 387 Wtchayanon Rd., T. Chang Moi Tel. (053) 252 633, http://chiangmai. usconsulate.gov
BUS
CHIANG MAI ARCADE BUS STATION
WWW.GREENBUSTHAILAND.COM (053) 242 664
DESTINATION
DEPARTURE TIME
DURATION
ROUTE
TO BANGKOK Air-Conditioned Bus (X-Class) 10:30 10 hrs. More options for transport bus (Chiang Mai-Bangkok), please call 053-242 664 TO CHIANG RAI Air-Conditioned Bus (VIP) (V-Class) 8:15 / 10:15 3 hrs. *12:30 / 14:45 / (Fri, Sun) 17:15 / 18:00 (Fri, Sun) 18:30 / (Fri, Sun) 19:00 Air-Conditioned Bus (X-Class) (Sun-Fri) 7:00 / *7:45 / 9:00 3 hrs. (Sat) 09:30/ 10:30/ 11:00/ *12:15 13:15/ 15:00/ (Fri,Sun) 16:00/ (Mon-Thu,Sat)17:00/ (Fri,Sun) 18:30/ (Fri,Sun) 19:00 TO MAE SAI Air-Conditioned Bus (VIP) (V&X Class) (Mon) 05:15/ (Sat) 07:00/ 8:00/ 4 hrs. (Sun-Fri) 09:30/ (Fri,Sun) 16:30 Air-Conditioned Bus (A Class) 6:00/ (Mon-Thu,Sat)16:15/ (Fri,Sun)17:00 4 hrs. TO CHIANG KONG (Duration time 4 hrs. Route 671) Air-Conditioned Bus (VIP) (V&X Class) 8:00 8 hrs. Air-Conditioned Bus (X-Class) 9.30/14:30 8 hrs.
CHIANGPUAK BUS STATION BUSES FROM CHIANG MAI - SURROUNDING DISTRICTS DESTINATION FANG CHIANG DAO - FANG - MAE RIM - MAE TAENG - ELEPHANT CAMP - CHIANG DAO OM KOY MAE AI - THATON PEANGLOUNG WIENG HANG HOD DOI TAO SAN KHAMPAENG PRAO SAMOENG BAN WATCHAN LAMPHUN PAI MAE HONG SORN
DEPARTURE TIME
CHIANG MAI RAILWAY STATION:
27 CHAROEN MUANG RD., A. MUANG,
CHIANG MAI. (053) 244 795
CHIANG MAI- BANGKOK Express 102 Special Express 8 Express 52 Special Express 14 Special Express 2
06.30 08.50 15.30 17.00 18.00
BANGKOK- CHIANG MAI BANGKOKâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S PRINCIPAL RAILWAY STATION; (02) 621 8701
DURATION
3 hrs. 3 hrs. 20 mins. 30 mins. 50 mins. 1 hr. N: 07:50, 13:30 4 hrs. N: 05:30,07:20, 09:00,10:30,11:30,13:30, 15:30 4 hrs. Minibus: 7:30,10:30,13:30, 15:30 3 hrs. N: 08:30,12:30 6 hrs. N: 05:00 - 17:30 (every 20 mins.) 2 hrs. N: 04:30, 05:30, 08:30, 10:30, 12:30, 14:30, 15:30, 18:00 3 hrs. 7.00-21.00 (every 10 minutes) 30 mins. 8.15-16.15 (every 30 minutes) 2 hrs. 9.00-16.00 (every 30 minutes) 40 mins. 9.00 & 11.00 6 hrs. 8.00-16.00 1 hrs. 6.30-17.30 (every 1 hour) 3 hrs. 7.00 5 hrs. 6.30-14.30 (every 30 minutes) 6 hrs. 7.00 8 hrs.
DP.
Special Express 7 Express 109 Special Express 1 Special Express 13 Express 51
08.30 13.45 18.10 19.35 22.00
AR.
3rdFARE
2nd FARE
21.10 19.25 05.25 06.15 06.50
231
391
19.30 04.05 07.15 08.40 12.10
166
166
619 619 170 170
(053) 211 586
Minibus: 07:30-16:30 (every 1 hr.) 5.30 -19.30 (every 30 minutes) 6.00-18.00 (every 10 minutes) 5.30-20.00 (every 10 minutes)
TRAIN
18
2nd FARE (Aircon)
BUS Minibus Orange
Blue Orange Red Blue White Red Yellow Yellow Blue-White VAN Bus VAN Bus
2nd FARE
2nd FARE
(Sleeper)
(Sleeper/Aircon)
531/581
751/821
1stFARE
(Sleeper/Aircon)
641 271
541
601/671
791/881 1,253/1,453 791/881 1,253/1,453
641 231
271
391
491/541
541
531/581
791/881
1,253/1,453
791/881
1,253/1,453
751/821
STATE RAILWAY OF THAILAND CALL CENTRE 1690 (24 HRS.) 63
index A
L
Aroon Rai Restaurant
14
Le Crystal
25
M
AUA
T 13
Tamarind Village The Dukeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Restaurant
B Baan Celadon
Mont Blanc Garden 15
The River Market
Buri Siri Hotel 21
N
Tiger Kingdom
27
C
Nara Tour
Toyota Sure
12
Chilli Antiques & Arts
P
T.Y.L Corporation
14
15
8
15
4
Mengrai Kilns
61
Pavillion Night Bazaar
19
D
P. Collection
29
Devarana Spa
Pioneer Cargo 25
CLBS
27
7
Punna Residence
E Elephant Poo Poo Paper Park
27
G Good View
Rarinjinda Spa
13
Veerachai Court
Walen International School
25
Back Cover X
Huay Kaew Residence
Rice Barge Boat Trip 25
X-Centre
3
S
I 19
Shinawatra Thai Silk
29
J
Shiraz Jewelry
6
Jolie Femme
Siam Celadon
9
12
Spotlight Bar
25
Sukantara Resort
18
A NUMBERS GAME
Emergency Tourist Police Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) TAT Chiang Mai Highway Police Customs Office Immigration Bureau Chiang Mai Police Station Bhuping Police Station Maharaj Nakorn Ping Hospital (Suan Dok)
Y Yaang Come Village
Department Stores and Shopping Outlets
Important Phone Numbers
64
15
W 7
Rati Lanna Riverside Spa Resort 11
Is Wheels
5
V
H 14
18
Inside Front
R Raming Tea House
The Plaza Outlet Mall
191 1155 1672 (053) 248 604-5 1193 (053) 277 510 1178 or (053) 201 755-6 (053)242 2234 (053) 211 750 (053) 947 700
Central Kad Suan Kaew Plaza Huay Kaew Rd. CentralFestival Chiang Mai (Superhighway Juvenile Court Intersection) CentralPlaza Chiang Mai Airport (close to Chiang Mai International Airport) Maya Lifestyle Shopping Mall (Rincome Intersection, near Nimmanhaemin Rd.) Big C Extra (Superhighway Rd.) Tesco Lotus (Superhighway Rd.)
67
65