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CAPTURE CREATIVE CONNECTICUT FOOD AND FARM PROFESSIONAL PHOTOGRAPHY FOR THE AGRICULTURAL AND FOOD SERVICE INDUSTRIES
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in this issue
EMU: A CULINARY COMEBACK
COURTNEY SQUIRE
TO BREAK BREAD, LET’S MAKE BREAD CAST IRON COOKING
KRISTIN L. WOLFE
SCORN NOT THE HUMBLE BEAN
JENNIFER C. LAVOIE
INDIGO: LESSONS FROM A DYE FARM
LORI DROUIN DZIEDZIC
SAVORY PANCAKES FLIPPING DELICIOUS
MALLORY O’CONNOR
TINY RESTAURANTS TO COZY UP TO THIS WINTER
MATTHEW WICK, SEAN DUTSON
& THOMAS JULIANO
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WINTER 2020 | VOLUME 19
HAND ROLLED CHOCOLATE TRUFFLES
NATURE AND JOY
KERRY KINCY
ORGANICONN: CT NOFA’S WINTER CONFERENCE
JEREMY C. K. PELLETIER
COMFORT FOOD CASSEROLES
SHERRY SWANSEN
FIRESIDE COCKTAILS
CHELSEA KRAMER
A COOK’S GUIDE TO VINTAGE KITCHENWARE
GENA GOLAS
PHOTO “WINTERBERRY” BY LISA STONE KIM
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SUSANNE BERNE
118 134 144 158 166 180
AUGUST: UPSCALE BAR AND EATERY 6
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TINY
RESTAURANTS
TO COZY UP
TO THIS WINTER BY SEAN DUTSON, TOMMY JULIANO JR & MATT WICK PHOTOS WINTER CAPLANSON
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When the temperatures dip, come in from the snug nooks with 50 seats or fewer, perfect for a
favorites, selected not only for their idyllic char
bar and sip from an exceptional wine list; gra
tuck into comfort dishes ideal for the season. Ba
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cold to these three tiny jewel box restaurants‌ romantic evening. Our chefs share three of their
rm, but also their delicious fare. Cozy up to the
aze from a small, but mighty, bistro menu; or
ask in the warmth at these wintertime winners:
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Elizabeth’s Farmhouse, 75-81 CANAL ST, PUTNAM, CT
In the parking lot of an old mill building, surrounded by warehouses and a lumber yard, is NOT where one would expect to find one of the finest restaurants in the Northeast. Elizabeth’s Farmhouse defies the notion that location is everything in the restaurant world. As the executive chef at a four-diamond hotel and destination restaurant in the heart of Boston’s theater district, finding a favorite restaurant in the parking lot of a mill in Putnam, Connecticut - ten minutes from my home - is a bit surreal. You don’t “stumble” upon Elizabeth’s. You don’t leave the theater and look up and find Elizabeth’s and decide “oh, let’s try this place.” You GO to Elizabeth’s because a friend or coworker or - in my case - a fellow chef, tells you that you really HAVE to go check it out. So, you go…and you can’t get in. Seriously? This is “the quiet corner,” not Boston or New 10
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York, but nonetheless, the demand is such that you just don’t drop in…you need a plan. Locals know this and act accordingly; you show up at 5:30 pm, put your name on the list, leave your phone number so the host can text you when a table is about to open up, and head off to enjoy a drink at one of the other more spacious spots in Putnam. It’s a process that, as long as you expect it, actually adds a certain magic to the night. You aren’t merely going to eat; you’re out for an experience. Why the fuss? To begin with, there are forty-four seats in a very cozy and comfortable room that makes you feel good. As the name implies, the ‘feel’ is that of a farmhouse with the wooden plank floors and country décor, but there is also a sense of understated sophistication. You can just ‘tell’ that what you are about to experience is special. The vibe in CT FOODANDFARM.COM
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the room reassures you that the wait is well worth it. The staff is professional and incredibly attentive, but not at all formal. You get a smile and a personal welcome from everyone, from the host to the bus staff. It may surprise you, but after being in the food business for twentysomething years, I get more excited about really good service than I do about really good food. Don’t get me wrong; good food is critical, and Elizabeth’s delivers, but the ‘experience’ of dining out can’t be good without exceptional service and atmosphere. Elizabeth’s achieves on all fronts. The food is absolutely tremendous. I find the menu has extensive “depth of choice,” meaning that within each category, there are a number of items that appeal to me. There is an unmistakable freshness and wholesomeness to all the dishes. Quality ingredients are 12
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prepared simply but perfectly. The offerings are creatively comfortable, both familiar and interesting. The portions, seasoning and ingredients are all spot on. Much like the service, the food is not formal, but it is amazingly well done. When you leave Elizabeth’s and look around, you can’t help but feel a little like waking from a very pleasant dream - one you’ll be anxious to enjoy again soon. Sean Dutson is Executive Chef of the Revere Hotel Boston Common and its restaurant Rebel’s Guild
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Working nights in New Haven poses a difficult challenge. Where shall you drink and eat after your shift? I mean this in the sense that there is no shortage of fun, unique and delicious options in the city, making the decision that much more daunting. My girlfriend and I carpool to work often, and when we both work in the evening and want to escape somewhere before making the trip back to Middletown, more often than not, we both have the same place in mind. August Wine Bar lives on Edwards Street, a side street of State Street in the East Rock neighborhood. The entrance is subtle and unassuming from afar, but as you approach, you begin to realize how much attention to detail has gone into designing the space. The moment we walk in and see Andrew Hotis, his wife Michelle and any of their wonderful staff behind the dark wooden bar, we know we’re in a warm and welcoming place. From the antique jukebox that also serves as seating arrangement, to the beautiful glass-paned sliding door of the restroom, you feel that someone here really thought about the guest experience. At only 16 seats, it doesn’t feel like a restaurant; it feels like an extension of their home.
August:
Upscale Bar and Eatery 3 EDWARDS STREET, NEW HAVEN, CT
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Andrew and Michelle have put together a fun and diverse beverage program, with classic old-world wines, and more modern, natural varieties. The “by the glass” selection changes often, and is a good mix of familiar wines, and more funky, lesser-known ones. If you’re into learning about wine, Andrew and staff are extremely knowledgeable, and more than happy to educate and tell the stories behind the wines. Wine is their specialty, but don’t sleep on the beer and cider list, especially if the Nomad Brewing “freshie salt and pepper” gose is on the menu. More often than not,
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my go-to beverage is whatever vermouth they are pouring. Served with ceremony, in a chilled glass over ice, it’s my favorite way to wind down. Watching Andrew prepare food behind the bar, in the tiny kitchen corner he designed and built himself, is mesmerizing. The efficient use of space (or lack thereof ) is inspiring and compelling; I have a hard time fighting the urge to jump back and cook. Andrew’s menu is a comforting, but also exciting mix of snacks, from cheese and charcuterie boards and a great tinned seafood selection, to more substantial fare, like a sardine panino, or on my most recent visit, a lamb shepherd’s pie. The olives marinated in celery bitters and whatever terrine he made that week are a must for me. 16
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While the food and drinks are alone worth the visit, we return for the genuine hospitality that Andrew, Michelle and their staff provide. We always feel taken care of, from the moment we walk in and are greeted, until the moment we (very reluctantly) walk out the door. Andrew and Michelle have created a unique and deeply personal space to share their passion for food and drink, and to make people feel delight while enjoying it. Matt Wick is the culinary director at Atticus Cafe and Bakery in New Haven, CT.
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With ten-plus years of experience, I’ve met many talented people in the food industry. We always agree on one thing; the ultimate aspiration is to own and operate a small restaurant, which both offers an intimate experience for the diners, but also allows the chef to focus intently on their creations. No matter how ambitious or prolific the chef is as a businessperson, or how lucrative the restaurant may be, the passion to cook one’s personal style of food for people in an intimate environment is always paramount. Francesca’s Wine Bar and Bistro, owned by Chef Sean Butler, is just this. Francesca’s is a quaint restaurant located in the village of Collinsville that feels like a romantic bistro while boasting a strong “New England” flair, with about 35 seats and a 18
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Francesca’s Wine Bar and Bistro Collinsville
105 MAIN STREET, COLLINSVILLE, CT small bar. As a proud Nutmegger and a fan of food, I feel right in my element here. Chef Sean runs the kitchen while his fiancé, Tura Holz, is the Front of House Manager. The restaurant has a quintessential inviting feel, accentuated by the fact that it is operated by the young couple, almost as a “mom and pop” business. They have truly created an ideal date night. Sean is a talented chef and he certainly has the gravitas and restaurant experience to embrace his own culinary style. He gained his stripes working under notable Connecticut chef powerhouses such as Joel Viehland at Community Table Restaurant, Tyler Anderson at Millwright’s, and Jeff Lizotte at Present Company. Tura is incredibly personable and has a knack for coming up with creative cocktails to complement Sean’s food.
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For drinks, the restaurant has an extensive wine menu and a diverse cocktail list, with regular specials. I enjoyed on my most recent visit, the Applewood cocktail with bourbon, house-made apple shrub, lemon and bitters; a true “Connecticut” Old Fashioned. Sean makes the bread in-house (which is impressive for a tiny restaurant), and it was served with a tasty sage butter. Stand-out dishes are rustic and approachable. My favorites include stuffed mushrooms with pistachio and Parmesan, local carrots roasted with coriander and served with crispy kale and hot garlic butter walnuts, Sean’s version of a classic bouillabaisse, and lastly: house-made ricotta gnocchi with perfectly cooked beef short ribs, spiced demi-glace and cabbage cooked in a mulled red wine. As a pastry chef, I am snob when it comes to dessert, but the simple apple galette with vanilla ice cream and marzipan crunch couldn’t have been more perfect to compliment the style of such a cozy restaurant. All the dishes evoke feelings of warmth and winter spirit. While it’s not clearly listed, I would highly recommend asking for a tasting menu to truly experience everything that Francesca’s has to offer. Tommy Juliano Jr is a New Haven native and seasoned culinary professional with many years of experience as pastry chef at notable Connecticut restaurants such as Community Table and ON20, while also being featured on Food Network’s shows, “Sweet Genius” and “Beat Bobby Flay.”
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Savory Pancakes BY MALLORY O’CONNOR
LISA NICHOLS PHOTOS
Have you ever tried savory pancakes? There’s a whole world of pancakes out there that aren’t sweet at all. Think pancakes layered with seared ham, melty Gruyère, and topped with a fried egg. Green chili corn cakes with lime crema, or pancakes with rosemary and white cheddar. And what about pancakes channeling breakfast burrito vibes with chorizo jalapeño, hot honey and scallions, served alongside avocado, beans, and pico de gallo? Chef Molly Baker thinks you and yours will flip for these, at any meal of the day! Located in a corner spot at the Simsbury Town Shops, you’ll find the charming Popover Bistro & Bakery, where Molly oversees catering. This sunny, quaint bistro is open seven days a week, for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Popover
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also offers brunch on the weekends (and yes, they have mimosas). The menu features Connecticut-grown produce, brews from Black Hog Brewery in Oxford, GIV coffee roasted locally in Canton (bring home a bag of their “Popovers Blend”); and locally-sourced maple syrup and honey. With colorful paint and a cheerful atmosphere, it’s easy to fall in love with Popovers at first glance. Just open the menu and you’ll see why diners swoon for their blend of flavor-packed comfort food and healthy dishes, including a wide variety of gluten-free eats, cooked in designated gluten-free areas. Most of the menu can also be ordered glutenfree, and there is a case of baked goods in front which are also safe for the
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gluten intolerant. (An absolute must: the gluten-free chicken and waffles!). And new to weekend brunch this winter: the aforementioned, swoonworthy savory pancakes. Chef Molly Baker, who brought these gems to the menu, says she “likes savory more than sweet.” Inspired by comfort foods and traditional breakfast items, Molly wanted to add something unique to the brunch scene. At home, as a busy mom, Molly finds “hiding” ingredients an added benefit of savory pancakes. “Pancakes can be fun, like breakfast for dinner, but incorporating savory ingredients can actually make them a well-balanced dinner, and with kids you can sneak your vegetables in!” Molly also adds in superfoods like chia and flax, which easily go unnoticed in a pancake with so many other flavors. Molly draws from a rich heritage of world cuisines where savory pancakes abound, creating fresh new flavor combinations. Here are some of her favorite savory pancake recipes:
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Blue Cornmeal Cakes INGREDIENTS 1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour sifted 3/4 cup blue cornmeal 1 tbsp. sugar 2 tsp. salt 2 large eggs 1-1/2 cups whole milk 2 tbsp. melted butter (plus more for pan) Combine all dry ingredients. Whisk in butter, and then eggs and milk until combined. Heat skillet to medium. Add butter to hot skillet until melted. Ladle 1/4 cup of batter into the skillet. Lightly flatten and shape. Flip when the edges become browned from the butter and there are small bubbles on the sur-face (roughly two minutes). Cook for one more minute, or until you achieve the golden brown color you desire.
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“ Pancakes can be fun like breakfast for dinner,
but incorporating savory ingredients can actually make them
a well-balanced dinner...
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Basic Pancake INGREDIENTS 1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour 2 tbsp. baking powder 1-1/2 tsp. salt 1/2 cup sour cream (trust me) 3/4 cup whole milk 2 large eggs 2 tbsp. melted butter (plus more for pan) Combine all dry ingredients. In a separate bowl, whisk sour cream and eggs together. Add butter to egg mixture, then milk. Add to dry ingredients, and mix until combined. Heat skillet to medium. Add butter to hot skillet until melted. Ladle 1/4 cup of batter into the skillet. Lightly flatten and shape. Flip when the edges become browned from the butter and there are small bubbles on the sur-face (roughly two minutes). Cook for one more minute, or until you achieve the golden brown color you desire
Serve and enjoy! Choose from one of the pancake recipes, then add some variety using the flavor combos that follow. At Popover, Molly adds the ingredients right into the pancake batter to infuse their flavors. They can, however, be added right before cooking. Pro tip: cast iron pans are great for bringing out flavors (and for drawing additional iron from pan to food), but use whatever you have in the kitchen. “Ultimately.” Molly says, “these are supposed to be fun, so use what you have available.”
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“ There’s a whole
world of pancakes
out there that aren’t sweet at all. 32
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The BLT
Add cooked, chopped bacon and cheddar cheese to the batter. Cook with the same instructions. In a separate pan, wilt spinach and tomato. Layer the pancakes with the tomato-spinach mix.
Breakfast Burrito
Mix in chorizo jalapeĂąo with hot honey and scallions. Serve with avocado, beans, and pico de gallo.
Green Chili Corn Cakes with Lime Crema
Mix chilies, smoked paprika and grilled corn into the batter. In a separate dish, combine sour cream (or creme fraiche) and fresh lime juice to make crema for the top.
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Rosemary & White Cheddar
Mix this combination right into the batter for a delicious variation on either recipe.
Croque Madame
In a pan, sear ham; add Gruyère cheese on top. While melting, fry a runny egg. Layer the ham, cheese and egg between pancakes.
Green Eggs & Ham
These make a great “breakfast for dinner” for kids! Wilt some spinach and add to batter. While pancake cooks, sauté ham on the side with a runny egg, or right into scrambled eggs (additional spinach as well if you love to sneak in extra veggies!). Eating gluten-free? These recipes can be easily modified using Bob’s Red Mill Gluten-Free Pancake Mix, or most cup-for-cup gluten-free flours.
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“ Chef Molly Baker thinks you and yours will
flip for these,
at any meal of the day!
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BLUER THAN 40
INDI CT FOOD & FARM / WINT ER 2020
N
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LESSONS F ROM A DYE FARM
by Lori Drouin Dziedzic Winter Caplanson photos
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ONE OF T HE MOST
IMPORTANT
T HINGS I LEARNED
F ROM MY MAMA WAS TO SHARE MY
KNOWLEDGE; she said this makes room for me to learn more. Here, I’m going to teach you everything I know, so far, about growing, extracting pigment from, and dyeing with indigo. I had been dyeing with indigo for several years before I fell down a rabbit hole and immersed myself in learning how to grow and extract pigment from the leaves of indigo. This magical dye plant is one of the world’s oldest natural dyestuffs. For many, it represents the color blue. A crop used in agriculture, botany, cosmetics and medicine, it is the most valued, widely used and oldest natural dye that dates back to the ancient pharaohs. Fabric dyed in indigo has been said to repel snakes, mosquitoes and dirt. Samurais
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believed wearing indigo-dyed underclothing prevented infection from wounds. Indigo is a dye different than all others. It does not require a mordant; dyeing happens through a living fermentation process. The process “reduces” the Indigo, changing it from blue to yellow. In this state, it dissolves in an alkaline solution. The fiber is dipped and massaged while in the vat; when removed it is bright green and slowly changes (oxidizes) to the beautiful deep and rich blue of Indigo.
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“
I’ m going to teach you everything I know, so far, about growing, extracting pigment from, and dyeing
WIT H INDIGO. There are many species of indigobearing plants, but only a few that contain an amount large enough to extract from. I grow persicaria tinctoria, also known as Japanese indigo, dyer’s knotweed, or polygonum tinctorium. This is a tropical plant, an annual here in the northeast. This shallow-rooted plant likes warm, moist soil above 50°.
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GROWING • Start seeds indoors in an open flat, 5-6 weeks prior to the last frost in a rich, composted organic soil mixture. • Be sure they have plenty of close, direct light to prevent legginess. • When the first true leaves appear, generally after 2 weeks, transplant into their own container. They will be ready to transplant in the ground when the seedlings are 4 inches tall and have several sets of leaves, and the soil is at least 50°. • Harden off after all threat has passed and plant 18 inches apart in welldrained, composted soil. Mulch around and between rows to retain moisture. • Water weekly with fish emulsion; they are hungry little plants!
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HARVEST ING • Under ideal growing conditions, the plants should be ready in 45-60 days; cut down to 3-4 inches, leaving some foliage on the plants for a second cutting. • The yield depends on the soil, how well the plants are fed, and how warm the summer is. Here, you have a choice to extract pigment from the leaves for later use in a reduction vat, or to dye with fresh leaves.
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DYEING WIT H F RESH LEAVES
This method works well with protein fibers like silk and wool, and produces lovely shades of turquoise. • Harvest indigo and place in a bucket of cold water until ready to use. • Scour fabric. • Fill a large stainless steel bowl with leaves. • Add approximately 3 tbsp of kosher fine flake salt to the leaves. • Knead the leaves; they will begin to shrink and produce a liquid. • Add fabric to the leaf/salt combo and continue to knead together. • If needed, add more leaves in order to cover the fabric. • The longer you knead, the darker the blue. Check often to make sure there are not any white spots. • Rinse and hang to dry - wash and rinse again.
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“
There are many species o but only a few that co enough to ex
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“
of indigo-bearing plants, ontain an amount large xtract from.
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HYBRID FERMENTAT ION PROCESS This method is for use in a vat, and requires a good amount of leaves. • Harvest indigo and submerge in a container. • Extract: once the water has turned radiator fluid green, remove spent leaves and discard; we compost them as they are nitrogen-rich. • Alkalize: the indoxyl-laden liquid is alkalized with slaked lime- 1tbsp per gallon of water, giving a neutral ph. • Oxidize: you can aerate with a small shrub rake by swishing back and forth to introduced oxygen into the pigment-rich liquid. Do this for about 20 minutes, or until the liquid and the foam/bubbles on top turn blue. Let this rest anywhere from one day to two weeks to allow the pigment to dissipate to the bottom of your container. Decant the water off the top and you are left with indigo pigment that can either be left in sludge form, or spread out on a screen to dry. Seeds can be sourced online and indigo seedlings are available in the spring at the farm markets we attend in Stonington, Coventry and New Haven. You can also peruse what I make: indigo-dyed Shibori textiles, pottery buttons, and other botanical products, found at markets, events and Etsy.
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EDITOR’S NOT E: Lori’s one-of-a-kind, natural indigo dyed, vintage linens are exceptional, offering delicious heft, texture, and handwork. Lori Drouin Dziedzic of Flatland Alpacas lives in Pachaug, CT and grows plants for textile dyeing. She raises alpacas for their fiber for her weaving, and makes kiln-fired ceramic buttons.
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LISA NICHOLS PHOTO 58
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What I mean is, I LOVE WINTER,
and when you really
love SOMETHING,
then it loves you back, in whatever way it has
TO LOVE. John Knowles
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SCORN NOT G HUMBLE BEAN BY JENNIFER C. LAVOIE
LISA NICHOLS PHOTOS Joy of Cooking describes dried beans as “Being rather on the dull side, but much like dull people respond readily to the right contacts. Do not scorn them.” The simple bean, when cooked to perfection, married with braised pork, cooked in the satisfying fat of silky duck confit, or mixed with earthy vegetables and splendid aromatics, becomes anything but boring! So, if you’re ready to try the wild side of the humble bean and growing your own is not in your future, pop on over to Lapsley Orchards, a 200-acre gem of a farm nestled along the rolling hills in Pomfret, Connecticut, owned and operated by John and Patti Wolchesky. Not only can you purchase a selection of beans, but they sell an impressive amount of other fruits and vegetables that are all grown onsite. John Wolchesky is a first-generation farmer and has been working the land for over 35 years. He’s soft-spoken, genial, and very proud of their farm and the work they do. For the first 30 years, the produce they grew was sold wholesale to grocery stores. Unfortunately, this kept John on the road and away from the farm and his family. So, he started selling his produce at the retail stand and to local restaurants. For the past five years, the Wolchesky family has offered a Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) membership. “The community has always supported us, but with the CSA, members feel more involved.” “Our members are a part of the farm as opposed to just a customer,” said John. “One of the fun things about selling directly to our customers is they thank you for what you do.” Like most farmers, John and Patti are doing what they love and are passionate about. They also take tremendous satisfaction and pride in serving their community. The farm has over 160 CSA members and the first shares are ready around the second week of July. John said that at the beginning
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of the season it can be difficult to fill the box with something unique; lettuce can only be so exciting. So, to liven things up a bit at the beginning of the season, they fill the CSA boxes with mason jars full of dried beans, offering their members something fun and interesting. When asked about what makes growing and harvesting dried beans different than other crops, John explained: “First thing that comes to mind is the storability of the product. Unlike other crops, where you have to harvest when ripe, you can plant a heavier harvest than pretty much any other crop because of the beans’ storability.” This year John and Patti grew two types of beans: Midnight
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Black Turtle Soup and French Horticultural, both used in a classic, rustic dish shared by Chef Ben Dubow from Bistro on Main. The French Horticultural bean pods are straight with splashes of crimson, and as the beans mature, they take on a cream-colored hue with the crimson colors swirled throughout the bean. The beans have a creamy, nutty flavor that holds up well in the cooking process.
SIDE NOTE:
The Lapsley Orchard Farm stand is closed after December 23rd, but they will be at the Winter Farmers Market at Westfield, first and third Saturdays, 9-noon, January-March. 210 Main St., Danielson, CT 06239.
Midnight Black Turtle Soup beans are about the size of pea beans. It has a deep, midnight black color and a thin skin that holds it texture well when cooked. Although petite, this bean has a creamy taste and mixes well with any aromatics you pair with it.
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Planting dry beans or shell beans is very similar to how you would plant green beans. Beans are a high-production plant that require a small amount of footage, but not a lot of fussing over. After growing to maturity, the beans are harvested in the fall when the pods have matured, and the leaves of the plant have dried and fallen. The rule of thumb is the depth of the planting is governed by the size of the seed. Plant the seeds about ½ to ¾ inches down, 12 inches apart, in double rows. John uses a plastic mulch layer to limit the contact of the seed pod with the ground, giving it a little buffer to shed water.
HOW TO GROW YOUR OWN DRY BEANS OR SHELL BEANS
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Unlike green beans, dried beans don’t have to be picked exactly when they are ripe; in fact, waiting a bit until at least most of the leaves have fallen and the pods are dried is best. Pull the plants from the roots and complete the drying on either a piece of plywood, or tarp. The moisture level of the pod can vary when harvested. If the pod feels a bit moist, continue drying, making sure to fully dry the beans. John’s been growing beans long enough now that he can tell how long the beans need to dry by simply eating them when they’re harvested. When the pods are fully dried, the next step is threshing the plant to get the beans out of the pod. John suggests, if shucking the pods by hand, to run your thumb down the back of the vein and pull up and out. Other options are to hold several plants by the roots and bang back and forth inside a trash can, or fill a bag full of dry beans and step on them. Or you can do what John’s farmhands
do: put the plants in a burlap bag and run it over with a tractor. Now that’s ingenuity! After the harvest, remember to save some of the beans to plant next year. Make sure the beans are thoroughly dried; otherwise they can get moldy. Store the beans in a location that is dry, dark, and cool for two weeks, then place the beans in paper envelopes. Remember to label your envelopes so next year you’ll know what beans you have. Dried beans from the store can be planted, too, but you may have less success with those as they may be too old to germinate, or some may be irradiated and won’t sprout. You can test the viability of the beans by layering several paper towels on top of each other and moistening with water. Spread 20 or so bean seeds on the paper towel, fold the towels in half, covering the seeds in moist layers. Put in a plastic bag in a warm area for one week and see which seeds sprout.
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“Beans are a high-produ a small amount of foo fussing 66
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RECIPES Our featured recipe is the cassoulet: a humble peasant dish of dried beans cooked with various sausages and preserved meats. We also offer two other recipes: Mexican Chicken Soup, from Patti Wolchesky, which features the Midnight Black Turtle Soup beans, and Ridgeway Baked Beans, an old family recipe that is dear to my heart. Patti makes the Mexican Chicken Soup several times during the winter because it’s one of the few ways she can get her kids to eat beans. My mother always put a pot of Ridgeway Baked Beans in the oven to cook all day long when she would tackle wallpapering a room. At the end of a long day, her wallpapering and beans would be done about the same time. My mother learned this trick from her mother, and although I don’t wallpaper, I do still like to cook Granny Ridgeway’s bean recipe. This is a very basic recipe consisting of three types of beans (yellow eye, kidney, and lima beans), sugar, salt, and ground pepper. Though everyone in the family makes the beans, we all add our own twist to the dish. My mother likes to use salt pork, my Aunt Therese likes to use bacon and swap out the yellow eye beans for the pinto beans, and I like to add spicy mustard and a glug of our maple syrup. The beans from Lapsley Orchards perfectly complement each other in the cassoulet; however, as Chef Dubow remarked, “The ethos of the dish is using whatever beans you’d like.” It is, after all, a rustic dish that lends itself to whatever you have on hand. The history of the dish squarely lands itself in the category of making do with what you have. The first cassoulet was a hearty stew that the peasants of the city of Castelnaudary created using whatever ingredients they had on hand to fortify the French troops under siege by the British during the Hundred Years War. The soldiers, with full bellies and fortified with beans, ousted the British and saved the city from occupation. Though we were not fending off invaders in Chef Dubow’s kitchen, I fully appreciated the simplicity, ingenuity, and frugality of using what’s fresh and readily available. Chef Dubow used a whole chicken for this dish. He remarked that a good, organic chicken is economical and easy for most people to source. He cut the chicken up into 10 pieces and browned the chicken in a heavy Dutch oven, then added chicken sausage, duck bacon, mushrooms, and onions. He used his own chicken stock, and recommends making your own stock; however, good quality storebought chicken stock is fine. A chef’s tip is to add some unflavored gelatin to the dish if using store-bought stock; natural gelatin from the stock adds complexity and depth to the dish.
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CHICKEN CASSOULET RECIPE: Chef Ben Dubow, Bistro on Main
This is a relatively quick version of a classic rustic French dish. Feel free to substitute duck or other meats for chicken in this dish. Note: beans need to be soaked 24 hours in advance. Yields 4-6 servings. Active time: 1 hour; total time: 3 hours (plus soaking). INGREDIENTS For the Chicken 1 whole roaster chicken, cut into 10 parts (standard 8-cut and then split the breast), or a pre-cut chicken or mixed chicken parts 1/4 cup olive oil Kosher salt and pepper
For Braised Beans 2 lbs. of high-quality dried beans; white flageolet beans are classic, but feel free to mix and match Water for soaking 2 quarts chicken stock or water 3 to 4 bay leaves 1 tbsp Herbs de Provence 2 cups diced onion 1 cup diced carrot 1 cup diced celery One 15 oz can of diced tomatoes, with juice 2 cups sliced mushrooms 1/4 cup minced garlic 2 cups white wine 8 oz bacon lardons (we use duck bacon) 8 oz chicken sausage, cut on the bias
continued...
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mushrooms. Allow to cook another 3-4 minutes. Deglaze pot with white wine.
... CHICKEN CASSOULET continued
To Finish
Add pre-soaked beans and stock. Add the chicken parts back in. Bring to a boil and reduce to simmer. Cover and let cook on medium; simmer for 45 minutes to an hour.
2 tablespoons whole butter Chopped fresh herbs INSTRUCTIONS For the Chicken Season chicken parts with salt and pepper. Heat Dutch oven with olive oil. Brown chicken parts until well browned and beginning to cook, 5-10 min. Remove chicken from pot and reserve. For Beans Soak the beans in water for about 24 hours. Remove from water and reserve. Add the bacon lardons and sausage to the pot. Allow to cook and render for about 5-6 minutes. Add the garlic, onions, carrots and celery. Allow to sweat 4-5 minutes. Use wooden spoon to scrape up brown chicken bits. Add chopped tomatoes and
The beauty of a cassoulet is that you can substitute the meat, the fat and the vegetables for whatever you have on hand. You could use duck, rabbit, or lamb in lieu of the chicken; instead of chicken sausage you can use whatever sausage you’d like; for the fat, instead of the duck bacon, you can use pork bacon, or salt pork. Chef Dubow added some “French stock,” aka water – he did this
After 45 minutes to an hour, stir and check doneness of beans. Taste the broth; salt and pepper as needed. Cover again and cook an additional hour on low simmer. After simmering, check the beans and chicken. The chicken should be tender and fall off the bone easily; the beans should be creamy and cooked through. Finish with the whole butter, by melting it into the stew. Allow to cook longer if needed. Otherwise serve immediately, or cool properly and serve the next day (even better!). When serving, garnish with fresh chopped herbs or greens. Serve with crusty bread.
because he didn’t want the chicken stock to overwhelm the dish. He added wine and some herbs and set the Dutch oven to simmer for 30 minutes. While traditionally the cassoulet takes time to make - with soaking the beans overnight - and most recipes will have you roasting and simmering all afternoon, the cassoulet that we made only took 30 minutes on the stove. To soak the beans, first remove any small stones, shriveled or broken beans, and wash and soak the beans overnight. Then pour off the water and use fresh water for cooking. Soaking the beans helps to take out some of the indigestible starches that cause gas. The beans simmered on the stove for 30 minutes, with the chef tasting the cassoulet often, and was soon ready for us to
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sample. I was quite surprised that this modest dish would have the depth of flavor it did. The beans kept their texture and the combination of the meat, fats and herbs gave this dish a complex, hearty taste that would make you think it cooked all day long. Once the dish sat for another half hour, the beans softened up even more: perfection. The key to the shorter cook time is the freshness of the dried beans. The beans had been freshly harvested at Lapsley Orchard the week before we made the dish, thus lending to the quick cooking time. When making this dish, it’s hard to know how fresh the beans are if you aren’t buying your dried beans from a farmer or farmers market. So, keep tasting your dish as it cooks, and know that older beans may take just a bit longer before your cassoulet is ready.
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MEXICAN CHICKEN SOUP RECIPE: Patty Wolchesky, Lapsley Orchards INGREDIENTS
RIDGEWAY BAKED BEANS RECIPE: Jennifer C. LaVoie
Chicken from a roasted chicken
64 ounces chicken broth
2 tablespoons olive oil 1 yellow onion, chopped
1 (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes or fresh
1 red bell pepper chopped
1-1/2 cup fresh or frozen corn
¼ lb. kidney beans
1 tablespoon garlic chopped
2 cups softened black beans
¼ lb. small dried lima beans
Salt and black pepper to taste 1 tablespoon chili powder 1 tablespoon dried oregano 1 teaspoon ground smoked paprika 1 teaspoon dried ground cumin
INGREDIENTS ½ lb. yellow eye dried beans
¾ cup sugar
TOPPINGS
1-1/2 teaspoon salt
Cilantro
1 teaspoon pepper
Shredded cheese
¼ lb. salt pork
Tortilla chips Sour cream
INSTRUCTIONS Sauté onion and red pepper in a large pot until very soft. Add garlic and sauté for two minutes. Add salt, black pepper, chili powder, oregano, smoked paprika, and cumin. Sauté for another minute. Add all the rest of the ingredients except for the chicken. Simmer on medium-low heat for 30 minutes or more to allow all the flavors to develop. Add water, as needed, if soup gets too thick. Add shredded chicken and heat through. Garnish soup and enjoy. This soup is even better if made and refrigerated a day ahead of serving.
INSTRUCTIONS Soak the beans together overnight. Drain with fresh water. Simmer for 2 hours. Drain beans in a bean pot; put an onion in the bottom. Put beans in the pot with the onion. Cover with ¾ cups sugar, 1 ½ teaspoon salt and 1 teaspoon ground pepper. Add water to cover. Score ¼ lb. salt pork. Set on top of the beans. Cook at 325 degrees for several hours. Keep tasting the beans as they cook to check for doneness. Add water if needed.
“The simple bean, when cooked to perfection, married with braised pork, cooked in the satisfying fat of silky duck confit, or mixed with earthy vegetables and splendid aromatics, becomes anything but boring!” CT FOODANDFARM.COM
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T O B R E A K B R E A D, LET’S MAKE BREAD:
Cast Iron Cooking BY KRISTIN L. WOLFE
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You’ve heard the question before:
“What would you grab if you knew you had to leave the house in a hurry?” Strangely, the two items I’d grab are the heaviest: my 1940s-era, charcoal grey Royal typewriter, and my cast iron skillet. Many chefs would agree; its elegant form, durability, and ability to heat through-and-through make it a much beloved kitchen item. Today’s home cooks and chefs are going back to basics with equipment and ingredients, and there’s nothing that harkens back to basics more than a cast iron pan, or its robust cousin: the cast iron Dutch oven. In the 17th century, the depth and shape of the Dutch oven allowed for a range of soups, stews, and casseroles to cook hearthside. In the mid-19th century before ovens and stove top cooking became popular - cast iron skillets were created and added as another signature tool around hearths or campfires. And at that time, there were just a few foundries and manufacturers creating them, like Lodge, Wagner Ware, and Griswold. Lodge is one of the only still in existence today, and has been owned and operated by the Lodge family since 1896.
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In the 1960s and 70s, when kitchen convenience reigned (think non-stick cookware), cast iron cooking fell out of favor. Many manufacturers were bought out or went out of business altogether. Thankfully, cooking styles are now coming full-circle, and chefs and cooking shows are reminding us to respect the simplicity of quality ingredients and tools. The cast iron Dutch oven and skillet have pushed their way back to the forefront once again.
And what could be more beautiful, simple, and hearty to make - in the equally beautiful, simple, and hearty cast iron Dutch oven - than bread? On a cold and rainy Sunday, Chef Carlos Perez joined photographer Winter Caplanson at her beautiful 1790 Bailey Farm in Franklin to make and break bread in an AGA cooker. The ambience could not have been more perfect: rain outside, warm and cozy inside, with cups of tea and the aroma of yeasty, fresh bread making its way around the house. It could well have been the set of “Little House on the Prairie:� the personification of all that is earthy and cozy. The Scandinavians would call it a moment of hygge, which is all that fosters a
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The ambience could not have been
more perfect: rain outside, warm and cozy inside, with cups of tea and the aroma of yeasty,
fresh bread making its way around the house.�
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mood of contentment and coziness, therefore igniting absolute wellness. Chef Carlos prefers the “no-knead bread” method of bread baking. It uses a very long fermentation time instead of kneading in order to form the gluten that gives the bread its dense texture. So, low yeast content and a very wet dough. The bread is all the more enhanced in texture, flavor, and crust. And, by baking it in a cast iron Dutch oven, where heat and moisture are held inside...well, magic happens. His favorite recipe is adopted from Jeff Lahey at Sullivan Street Bakery in New York. It yields one half-pound loaf that is undeniably golden and crusty on the outside - and warm, chewy, and dense on the inside. The ingredients are straightforward, and there’s no fancy equipment; the only hard part is waiting the 24 hours needed for the dough to ferment, and of course, the waiting once it is in the oven and the intoxicating aroma of fresh bread wafts throughout the house.
“Cast iron bread baking truly brings out the best qualities of a perfect loaf. From the crunchy, rich crust, deep flavor from the long fermentation, and light, airy crumb, this method truly makes the ingredients do all the work for you,” Chef Carlos says.
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“The Scandina
hy
which is al and c
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avians would call it a moment of
ygge,
all that fosters a mood of contentment coziness, therefore igniting absolute wellness.
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HOME BASE RECIPE INGREDIENTS 3 cups of bread flour ¼ teaspoon instant yeast or 1 tablespoon sourdough starter 1 ½ cups of warm water 1 teaspoon salt
FIRST STEP Add flour, yeast, and water. Mix in a bowl until you have a “shaggy” mess, then add the salt and stir briefly to incorporate, Chef Carlos explains. And, it’ll be quite sticky. You’ll want to keep it coarse, cover it, and let it sit out at room temperature for 18-24 hours so the dough can ferment.
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SECOND STEP
See the bubbles? That means it’s fermenting, which will create a nice, full-flavored tang. Lightly flour your work surface and pick up the dough to reshape it. Fold over from each corner, then cover with a towel. Let it rest for about 15 minutes. The dough is continuing its magic here while you let the gluten relax. CT FOODANDFARM.COM
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THIRD STEP
Reshape the dough until it is round. In this step, the dough is proofing, where the fermentation continues and the dough rises to approximately double its size. Cover and keep on the counter for another 2 hours.
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, n e v o h c t u D n o r i t s a c a n i t i g n i k a b y are held insid “B
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where heat and moisture
de...
well, magic hap
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FOURTH STEP
30 minutes before the 2 hours is up, heat your oven to 450 degrees. When it’s preheated, put your cast iron in. When the dough is ready, after 2 hours, flip it over into your cast iron pan, so seam side up. Place the lid on top. This traps the humidity for moisture and yet allows the yeast and the loaf to expand. The bread is in the oven for a total of 45-55 minutes, depending on how dark you want the crust. Chef Carlos normally does 35-40 minutes with the lid on, then 10-15 minutes with the lid off.
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VA R I AT I O N S / A D D I T I O N S : 1) Substitute ½ cup of wheat flour, then increase water by ¼ cup 2) Add ½ cup of currants, walnuts, and orange zest 3) When shaping the dough in the third step, add 2 cups of cheese. A favorite variation: ½ cup each of cheddar, fontina, gruyere, gouda - and ¼ cup scallions 4) Before fourth step, dust dough with oats, caraway seeds, fennel, onions, and/or everything bagel seasoning
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Chef Carlos is just moments from the opening his newest venture, Chez 180 in Westport. He has trained under the greats from The French Culinary Institute, and has made his way in and out of some of New York City’s top restaurants before returning home to Connecticut. After operating La Palette Bakery in Watertown for 13 years, he and his team hope to bring a whole culinary experience ranging from sweet to savory to Westport and beyond. “Carlos’ palate is exceptional,” Caplanson explains. “He’s a rising star in the Connecticut culinary scene. But delicious doesn’t have to be complicated. His bread recipe is too flavorful and easy not to make often.” So, this winter, on wet, snowy days when all you want to do is hang inside around the fire in your PJs, bring out the Dutch oven, gather in the kitchen, and make bread. Invite your neighbors over, try one of the many variations above or create your own. Then, turn the tea kettle on and break bread.
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EMU a culinary comeback
by Courtney Squire
Winter Caplanson photos
Approaching the main central barn area at Penfield Farm in Portland, Connecticut, visitors are treated to a symphony of the happy moos, clucks, cackles, chirps, neighs and honks of the many animals and birds that call this little slice of paradise home. In addition to the animals raised for meat and eggs here on the farm, a variety of rescue animals are lucky enough to live out the rest of their lives here in the rolling green hills of the Connecticut River Valley. Perusing the outskirts of the main central pens, one quickly notices how the animals easily mesh together, sharing the gorgeous views on this twohundred-year-old family farm. Sheep, geese, chickens, peacocks, guinea fowl, pheasant, cattle, pigs, miniature horses, and a llama named Opie all share this lovely space, adding a vibrant cadence of sounds and energy to the landscape. But none are more unique or interesting than the group of prehistoric-looking emus that round out the cheerful array of inhabitants on Penfield Farm.
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"THE EMU IS A FLIGHTLESS BIRD WITH SOFT BROWN FEATHERS SECOND ONLY TO THE OSTRICH IN HEIGHT."
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The emu is a flightless bird with soft brown feathers second only to the ostrich in height. At six feet tall, this Australian native is taller than the average human and can top speeds of up to thirty miles per hour. From afar, the emu looks just like a goofy bird with its long legs, iridescent blue neck, shaggy body, and large orange bug eyes. But up close, it’s obvious that these birds are ancient relics of
transported instantly back in time, seventy five million years to the Cretaceous period, and are face-toface with a spirited velociraptor ready to decimate its prey.
the past. As the emu lifts its neck and tilts its head, pondering what to make of any human standing before it, one quickly notices the giant claws on each foot that can easily eviscerate any predator in a New York minute. And when females puff up their chests and start making low-throated drumming sounds, it can feel like you’ve been
Emu enjoyed some time in the limelight back in the early 1990’s, when Texas ranchers promoted emu as the next red meat and invested heavily in this new industry; mating pairs fetched up to $50,000 at the time. But it was boom-and-bust and emu popularity fell away until recently, as many are once again learning about the health
The emu is notorious for being an aggressive animal, but the flock at Penfield Farm is quite different. Bred for temperament, these birds are curious and enjoy interacting with humans - that is, once they’ve decided if they are interested enough. Farm manager Victoria Tchetchet started raising emus over ten years ago after rescuing a pair of females and then adding a male to the mix. Now the farm boasts six breeding pairs, as well as a few rescues, and a mob of fledglings that are raised mostly for their meat and oil. Victoria cares deeply for all the animals on the farm, but has a special penchant for the emus that she describes as a “total labor of love.” And as their emu products grow in popularity, she is thrilled to add more birds to the bunch, while carefully curating the right genetics that lead to a more docile animal.
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"AT SIX FEET TALL, THIS AUSTRALIAN NATIVE IS TALLER THAN THE AVERAGE HUMAN AND CAN TOP SPEEDS OF UP TO THIRTY MILES PER HOUR."
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benefits of this bird’s meat (and the anti-inflammatory properties of its oil). Added to that is a growing population of folks who have developed what’s called Alpha-gal syndrome, brought on by a tick bite, which causes an allergy to red meat. Those who have found themselves afflicted with this ailment are delighted to have discovered Penfield Farm’s emu, satisfying their craving for red meat while dutifully avoiding any beef or pork in their diets due to this unique condition.
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The emu produces a lean meat that is low in fat and cholesterol, and although it comes from a bird, Victoria says the texture and flavor is actually more like “a kind of sweet beef.” Penfield Farm’s emu is sold either as a steak (inside filet, outside filet, and fan filet) or ground, with all the meat sourced from the bird’s legs. Emu eggs are also available when they are in season, and make for a rich and delicious frittata. Emu steaks are excellent enjoyed on the rare side, and take little time to prepare, making
this tender cut of meat a great option for cooks who like simple and quick meal preparations. The ground emu is fantastic as a burger - on its own, or even mixed with ground beef or a little duck fat. It can also take center stage in a chili, Bolognese, or seasonal ragu. Emu’s low fat content makes for a great addition to soups and stews; without having to drain off any fat it makes weeknight meals a snap to prepare, and healthy for the whole family.
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"UP CLOSE, IT’S OBVIOUS THAT THESE BIRDS ARE
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E U M E “
.. .MA
D N A H C I R A R KE FO
Chef Chris Sassi, from the acclaimed Conspiracy craft cocktail bar and restaurant in Middletown, loves the versatility of emu, and describes it as “pretty much a clean slate: it takes on whatever flavor you put into it.” Chris features Penfield Farm’s products on his menu every chance he gets, and loves putting his own unique spin on preparing emu in his kitchen. He recommends cooking the steaks rare to medium-rare for the juiciest and most tender way to enjoy this lean meat. Try making his ReverseSeared Emu Steak at home, a quick and easy preparation that is sublime in its sheer simplicity (see recipe). For the ground emu meat, be sure to catch his Wild Mushroom and Ground Emu Flatbread when it’s on the menu at Conspiracy, a tried-and-true combination of mushrooms and ground meat that always
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E G G S . ..
D DELICIOUS
FRITT ATA.”
delights the senses. Chris also adds flair to the menu with his version of Emu Tartare, yet another delicious way to enjoy Penfield Farm’s unique offerings. This straightforward dish features simple ingredients yet lends a bold level of elegance that is accessible to even the most novice home cook (see recipe). In addition to the versatility and uniqueness of Penfield Farm’s emu products, Chris also appreciates that he knows exactly where the meat comes from, and how the emus were born, raised, loved, and admired by their caretakers. Farm manager Victoria takes great pride in all of the farm’s products, and her love and high regard for her animals is inherent in all that’s done at Penfield Farm. She notes that “even in the freezer, they’re treated with respect.” And eating healthy local food that has been cared for, and loved, from birth to plate is exactly the kind of food we should be filling our bellies with.
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Get cooking with these emu recipes from Chef Chris Sassi:
Reverse-Seared Emu Steak Total time: 30 minutes (plus time to marinate). Serves one.
INGREDIENTS: 1 emu fan filet (approximately a half-pound steak) 1 tbsp. chopped fresh rosemary 1/4 cup melted duck fat (can substitute with melted butter or extra virgin olive oil) Salt and pepper to taste Mix the rosemary with the melted fat (or oil), and marinate the steak in the refrigerator, for anywhere from 4 to 24 hours, making sure to turn the steak occasionally to ensure even coverage. Allow steak to reach room temperature before cooking. Preheat the oven to 300 degrees. When the oven is ready, place the steak, topped with the marinade, on a baking pan and cook for about 20 minutes, or until the internal temperature reaches 105 degrees. Meanwhile, prepare for the final searing step by either heating the grill to medium-high, or heating a cast-iron pan on the stovetop to medium-high. When the steak reaches 105 degrees, take it out and sprinkle a few pinches of salt and pepper on both sides, and then toss it on the grill (or in the heated pan) for about 2 minutes on each side to achieve a nice sear. Do not overcook it! Emu is best enjoyed rare to medium-rare. Enjoy the steak as-is, finished with more salt and pepper to taste, or try it topped with an herb and roasted garlic compound butter, avocado butter, or homemade chimichurri sauce.
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Emu Tartare
Total 30 min: Serves 4
INGREDIENTS: 1 lb. ground emu 1 cup cooked red kidney beans (approximately 2/3 of a can) 2 tsp. Tabasco or hot sauce of choice 4 tbsp. ketchup 1 tbsp. Worcestershire Sauce 2 tbsp. Dijon mustard 1 tsp. smoked paprika 1/4 cup grapeseed oil OR extra virgin olive oil (approximately) 1 tbsp. chopped scallion greens 1 tsp. each salt and pepper Add the beans, hot sauce, ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, Dijon mustard, and smoked paprika to a food processor. Puree while slowly adding up to a 1/4 cup of the oil to thicken the mixture and create a smooth emulsion. In a separate bowl, season the ground emu with the salt and pepper, and then mix in the puree and scallion greens until well-incorporated. Serving suggestions: arrange the tartare on top of a bed of greens with some crostini on the side, and try topping the tartare with a whole grain mustard, bĂŠarnaise or hollandaise sauce, or even a fried egg drizzled with an herb vinaigrette.
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Chef Chris Sassi
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Find Penfield Farm’s Emu meat, eggs and emu oil products, lamb, Berkshire pork, black angus beef, broiler chickens, eggs and more at their Farmstand, open Saturdays from 9-3. Visit them at penfieldfarm.com and follow them on Facebook at facebook.com/penfieldfarm. Check out the seasonally-inspired and locally-sourced menu at Conspiracy in Middletown at conspiracyct.com. For info on special events, Tasting Table menus featuring local producers, and of course, Penfield Farm emu, follow them on Facebook at facebook.com/conspiracyct.
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Brew me a cup for a winter’s night. For the wind howls loud, and the furies fight; Spice it with love and stir it with care,
And I’ll toast your bright eyes, my sweetheart fair.
~ Minna Thomas Antrim, “A Night Cap,” A Book of Toasts, 1902
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A
COOK’S GUIDE TO
V I N TAG E K I TC H E N WA R E by Gena Golas Laurie Bonneau photos Cara Marcoux styling
THEY JUST DON’T MAKE THINGS THE WAY THEY USED TO, BUT IN THE CASE OF SOME VINTAGE KITCHENWARE, THAT MAY BE JUST FINE. Many secondhand or antique stores - like Michael Alessi’s dreamy booth, Ale’ccello, at the top of the stairs at Griswold Street Antiques in Glastonbury - are chockfull of charming and functional vintage kitchenware. Whether you go shopping, or picking through grandma’s kitchen, these five special items (plus some honorable mentions) will work just as well in your kitchen as they did in hers.
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PYREX
What made Pyrex so special when it debu ted in 1 applies for modern cooks: pretty casser oles that ca seamlessly from oven to table, or a cake th at can b watched through the clear glass dish while baking. nostalgia factor - so many of us can reca ll exactly w or colors were in ou r parents’ or grandp arents’ cup and vintage Pyrex is an obvious choice fo r a throwb that is just perfect in today’s kitchen. And , you’re no bakeware: search fo r nesting mixing bowl s, butter d and dip sets, and m easuring cups. To ke ep your Py shape for generations to come, do not bake at temp higher than 400 degr ees, and always hand wash.
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1915 still an go be carefully Add in the which patterns pboards back piece ot limited to dishes, chip yrex in top peratures
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“THEY JUST DON’T MAKE T H I NG S T H E WAY T H EY U S E D TO, BUT IN THE CASE OF S O M E V I N TAG E K I TC H E N WA R E , T H AT M AY B E
J U S T F I N E .” CT FOODANDFARM.COM
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E NA M E LWA R E Enamelware, made from metal like steel or cast iron, coated in an enamel glaze and then fired to create a smooth, non-porous, and easy to clean surface, is another stillpopular vintage item. From plates to mugs, coffee pots, and cookware, Enamelware comes in numerous colors, designs, and styles to pretty-up your modern kitchen. It’s also dishwasher safe, a nice advantage over aluminum pans. Avoid cooking with Enamelware where the metal has been exposed and perhaps rusted, but unblemished Enamelware works just fine in today’s kitchen - and outside of it. Consider taking Enamelware plates, bowls, and coffee mugs on your next camping trip or picnic for a lightweight and eco-friendly service option.
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“NOT MUCH HAS C ABOUT THE DES A CLASSIC, WO ROLLING PIN, A MUCH NEEDS
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CHANGED SIGN OF OODEN AND NOT T O .”
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ROLLING PINS There’s something about a vintage rolling pin
pins remain useful for decades. Vintage rolling
that suggests memories of holiday baking and it is
pins are often more diminutive than modern
possibly one of the first kitchen tools our parents
rolling pins, making them perfect for small
might have let us use as a child. Not much has
batches like single pie crusts. When cleaning, do
changed about the design of a classic, wooden
not submerge in water, or you risk warping or
rolling pin, and not much needs to. If you’re
cracking the wood. Instead, wipe down with a
lucky, you get to inherit a pin whose handles
damp towel, or simply scrape clean with a bench
have been slightly worn with age and the effort of
scraper or the back of a knife.
making something with love. Wooden rolling
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STORAGE CONTAINERS Consider using vintage storage containers in your kitchen, such as mason jars for spices, rice, and cereal; wooden boxes for pantry items like onions and potatoes; or Enamelware buckets for tea towels, napkins, or silverware. These can be reused again and again and allow you to cut down on plastics in your kitchen. Check out local fairs and markets for containers that bear the names of local-to-you brands.
CAST IRON Whether a pan, kettle, Dutch oven, or even a mortar and pestle, cast iron is one of the best and most durable of all kitchen items. For an in-depth discussion of the beauty of cast iron cookery, check out Maya Oren’s article in our Winter 2017 issue. 130
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HONORABLE MENTIONS: Juicers: This simple tool has hasn’t changed much
over the years, and older wooden, ceramic, or glass versions still work just as well today.
Cookie Cutters: Another item full of nostalgia for
many, vintage cookie cutters can be used either for baking or for decoration. Copper and plastic versions keep best over many years.
Cake Stands: Clear glass, milk glass, wire, silver, or
practical cast iron - a vintage cake stand’s beautiful design enhances the pastry perched above it.
Cutting Boards: Older cutting boards are often utilitarian, single pieces of wood. Unlike modern cutting boards that are often multiple pieces glued together, these vintage pieces do not delaminate and separate. Oil your cutting boards with food-safe mineral oil to keep the wood looking new. Linens: Vintage towels, aprons, and tablecloths can
be just as beautiful today as they were decades ago. Now, buttery-soft to the touch with years of wear, quality fabrics stand the test of time. There’s something extra-sweet and special about your great-grandmother’s hand embroidery on the edges of one of her old tea towels.
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fires
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side BY CHELSEA KRAMER
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JAKE SNYDER PHOTOS
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The Irish Coffee got its start
on a snowy day in Ireland, when a bartender tried adding Irish whiskey to coffee to warm-up stranded travelers at an airport. At The Half Door, our Hartford gastropub, we proudly continue that tradition with our Irish Coffee - layered, warm, and lightly sweet - and cocktails that perfectly complement a warm fire on a chilly day. Here’s how to recreate that feeling and push the boundaries just a bit with new twists (and, sometimes, a little cookie butter). All of these cocktails are created to help you feel the warmth of hearth and home.
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The Irish Coffee INGREDIENTS 1.5 oz Jameson Irish Whiskey 1 tsp brown sugar 1 oz heavy cream .5 oz Bailey’s Irish Cream Coffee In a cold shaker, combine the heavy cream and Bailey’s; shake hard until it’s a thick, milkshake-like consistency. Be careful to not over-shake, and set aside. In a tall mug, stir together the Jameson and the brown sugar; add coffee, leaving about 2 inches’ room from the top. Using a spoon, gently layer the cream on top of the coffee.
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Irish Hello INGREDIENTS
1 oz Waypoint Spirits Coffee Liqueur 1 oz maple syrup Guinness Pour the coffee liqueur and maple syrup into a Collins glass; stir to incorporate. Slowly add the Guinness and enjoy the view while it settles. Sip and enjoy!
f f o C h s Our Iri s t n e m e l comp
y ll i h c a
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y l t c e f r e p fee. . n o e r i f a warm
. y a d y
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You’re a Wizard, Harry! INGREDIENTS 1.5 oz Jameson Black Barrel .5 oz Bailey’s Irish Cream 1 tbs Speculoos Cookie Butter Hot water Whipped cream (store bought or homemade) Cinnamon Stir together a heaping tablespoon of cookie butter with hot water in a mug, just about three quarters full. Add the Jameson Black Barrel and the Bailey’s, stirring to combine. Top with whipped cream and a dash of cinnamon.
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e r a s l i a t k c o c e s e h t f o ll A l e e f u o y p l e h o t created h t r a e h f o h t m r a the w
. e m o h d an
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n t i e r W Comfort Food Casseroles
BY CHEF SHERRY SWANSON
LISA NICHOLS PHOTOS
Crisp autumn mornings have turned bitter cold; each breath we take prickles, like stinging nettles. Winter can be austere and harsh, but it’s also beautiful. It’s a time to enjoy warm mulled cider, snuggle up in a cozy blanket, and indulge in comfort food like slow-simmered casseroles. The aroma and warmth they create makes us hungry with anticipation, and delicious food is the perfect treat for a chilly day.
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Chicken Pot Pie in a Buttercup Squash This is classic chicken pot pie with bits of carrot, onion, butternut squash and sweet peas simmered in a creamy, rich broth. Our twist uses a buttercup squash in place of a bottom pie crust. We cut off the top and scoop out the seeds, then add the savory filling and top it with a flaky pastry crust. SERVES SIX.
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INGREDIENTS 1 1/2 lbs chicken thighs 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 1/2 teaspoons salt 1/2 teaspoon pepper 1 large yellow onion, diced 2 medium carrots, diced 2 medium stalks celery 2 cups butternut squash, diced 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
6 sprigs fresh sage 4 tablespoons unsalted butter 5 tablespoons all-purpose flour 2 cups chicken stock 1 1/2 cups milk 2 cups frozen peas 6 refrigerated, pre-made pie crusts 6 small buttercup squashes 1 large egg
Heat the oven to 375ยบ. Season the chicken thighs with salt and pepper. Heat olive oil in a large skillet. Add the chicken to the pan, brown on both sides, and cook through for six to eight minutes. Remove the chicken from the pan and set aside. Add more olive oil to the pan. When the oil is warm, add the onions, carrots, celery, butternut squash, salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion has softened and the rest of the vegetables are crisp-tender, about five minutes. Add the butter and melt. Stir in the flour and cook for two to three minutes. Gradually whisk in the chicken stock and milk; simmer until thickened, about five minutes. Remove from heat and add the thyme, sage and frozen peas. Shred the cooled chicken thighs and add to the mixture. Set aside to cool. continued
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Remove the pre-made pie crusts from the refrigerator and allow to warm slightly. Cut off the top of each buttercup squash; scoop out the seeds. Season the inside with salt and pepper, place on a rimmed baking sheet and set aside. Sprinkle the counter with a little flour, and roll the dough out until it is 1/4 inch thick. Cut a circle one inch wider in diameter than the buttercup squash. Save the edges to cut out leaves to decorate the top of the pie. Repeat with the rest of the pie crusts. Fill the squash with the cooled vegetable and chicken mixture, and top with the circle of pie dough. Refrigerate the squash for 30 minutes. In a small bowl, whisk together the egg and a tablespoon of water. Brush the top of the pie dough with the egg wash. Put any leaves or other pastry embellishments on the top of the dough; brush with more egg wash. Cook the squash until the pastry is golden-brown, about 25 minutes. Remove and allow cool slightly before serving.
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es us hungry with anticipation, rfect treat for a chilly day.� CT FOODANDFARM.COM
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Tuscan Farro Casserole
Our Tuscan Farro Casserole is vegetarian, healthy and laden with vegetables. This dish is comforting without the need to loosen your belt. SERVES EIGHT.
INGREDIENTS 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon butter 1 1/2 cups chopped yellow onion 4 cloves garlic, minced 1 bay leaf Salt 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes 2 cups kale, thick ribs removed, chiffonade 1 1/2 cups pearled farro, rinsed
1 (28 oz) can San Marzano tomatoes 2 cups vegetable broth 2 cups (¾“diced) butternut squash 1 (15 oz) can cannellini beans, drained and rinsed 1/2 cup Parmesan cheese, grated - plus more for serving 1/2 cup toasted breadcrumbs Parmesan rind
In a medium Dutch oven, heat the olive oil and butter over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for six to eight minutes, until tender and starting to brown. Add the garlic, kale, two teaspoons salt, and one teaspoon red pepper flakes and cook until the kale wilts and the garlic is fragrant, about five minutes. Add the farro, tomatoes, bay leaf, Parmesan rind, squash, cannelloni beans and stock and bring to a simmer. Cover, and bake for 30-40 minutes, or until the squash and farro are tender. Check once during cooking and add a little stock if it’s dry. In a small bowl, combine the Parmesan and breadcrumbs. Sprinkle the Parmesan-breadcrumb mixture on the farro and bake uncovered for 15 minutes, until most of the liquid evaporates, the farro and butternut squash are tender, and the cheese has melted. Serve hot with extra grated Parmesan.
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Short Rib Chili with Cornbread Topping
Our short-rib chili with cornbread topping is comfort food for company. Here, chili is elevated by using short ribs, espres powder and dried whole chilies in lieu of ground meat and chili powder. This slow-simmered dish creates an evocative perfume that will have your guests hungry with anticipation. SERVES 10-12.
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INGREDIENTS
g
For Chili
3 lbs boneless short ribs, cut into 1” chunks 1 Tbsp vegetable oil 3 dried ancho chilies, stemmed and seeded 2 dried New Mexico chilies, stemmed & seeded 1 1/2 cups beef stock 3 Tbsp tomato paste 2 Tbsp unsweetened cocoa powder 1 Tbsp ground cumin 1/2 Tbsp ground coriander 1 teaspoon instant espresso powder 1 Tbsp Worcestershire sauce 1 large yellow onion, diced 2 red bell peppers, diced 1 serrano pepper, stemmed and minced 8 cloves garlic, minced 1 (28-oz) can crushed tomatoes
sso
Chili - Blot the short ribs dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a heavy bottom pot over high heat until shimmering. Add short rib chunks and cook until browned on all sides, about 4 minutes. Transfer beef to slow cooker. In a clean pot, add dried ancho and New Mexico chilies and toast over high heat until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add cocoa powder, cumin, coriander, and espresso powder and toast for 30 seconds. Add the tomato paste and caramelize for another minute. Add beef stock and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook until chilies are softened and almost falling apart, about 15 minutes. Transfer to blender and add Worcestershire sauce. Blend to a smooth paste. Scrape paste into slow cooker with beef.
1 (12-ounce) bottle lager 1 1/2 tablespoons cornstarch 1 (15-oz) cans kidney beans, drained 1 (15-oz) cans black beans, drained Kosher salt & ground black pepper
For Cornbread and Garnish
1 cup all-purpose flour 1 cup yellow cornmeal 2 teaspoons baking powder 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted 2 tablespoons light brown sugar 2 large eggs, beaten 1/2 cup whole milk 1 cup shredded cheddar cheese Jalapeño slices, for garnish Cilantro leaves, for garnish on and around the beef. Pour crushed tomatoes on top. Pour into slow cooker. Gently stir in beans. Cover and cook on low until beef is fall-apart tender, about six hours. Cornbread - In a large bowl, whisk together flour, cornmeal, baking powder, and salt. Set aside. In a small pan, brown the butter. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients and add browned butter, light brown sugar, eggs, and milk. Mix until no dry streaks remain, being careful not to over-mix. Fold in cheddar cheese. Spoon the batter gently onto the chili. Cover and increase heat to high. Cook until dumplings are fully cooked through, about 1 hour. Top with jalapeño slices and cilantro leaves, and serve.
Add onion, red bell peppers, Serrano, and garlic to slow cooker, arranging them
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“
T
d n i w he CROONED SOFTLY AS IT
dusted the snow AGAINST THE WINDOWS,
wrapping them IN A THICK AND FLUFFY
cotton blanket.” – SOHEIR KHASHOGGI
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Org
CT Win Con
MARC
by Jeremy Pelleti
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ganiConn:
NOFA’s nter nference
CH 7, 2020
ier Winter Caplanson photos
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IT MIGHT BE COLD,
but OrganiConn 2020 is calling, and you won’t want to miss this farmfocused form of March Madness, on March 7 at Wesleyan University. In late winter, as we plan spring gardens, prepare crop plans, and begin to see a light at the end of an icy tunnel, The Northeast Organic Farming Association of Connecticut (CT NOFA) brings together farmers, foodies, activists, and anyone impassioned by the land and communities that grow our food and fiber. Each year, CT NOFA renews our commitment to working lands and environmental stewardship. And each year, we gather to celebrate, learn, and inspire before we head off to the field for another growing season.
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“YOU WON’T WANT TO MISS THIS FAR CT FOOD & FARM / WINT ER 2020
For those who have not heard of CT NOFA, we are a non-profit organization whose mission is to ensure the growth and viability of organic food, agriculture, and land care in Connecticut. As a membership organization, our strength is in advocating for a healthy, organic Connecticut founded on ecologically, socially, and economically just principles. The lifeblood of CT NOFA is the support of like-minded farmers, gardeners, and advocates. In its 38th year, CT NOFA’s Winter Conference, dubbed OrganiConn, comes from humble roots in 1983, when a group of organic farmers would meet over a potluck lunch for camaraderie, to share their triumphs and pitfalls, and to collaborate on projects developing organic agriculture in Connecticut. Today, CT NOFA’s Winter Conference has grown into one of the largest organic food and farming conferences in the Northeast. It attracts between 500 and 700 participants each year, who enjoy 30-plus workshops that cover topics such as no-till agriculture, native plants and pollinators, organic vegetable gardening, and many other food, farming, and land care related subjects. Our instructors and panelists draw on extensive knowledge and experience from all seven of the NOFA chapters throughout the northeast.
RM-FOCUSED FORM OF MARCH MADNESS.” CT FOODANDFARM.COM
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“EACH YEAR, WE GATHER TO CELEBRATE, LEARN, AND INSPIRE BEFORE WE HEAD OFF TO THE FIELD FOR ANOTHER GROWING SEASON.” 162
CT NOFA has also made a commitment to the future of organic farming and, to a larger extent, the future of our food system. So the Winter Conference also addresses topics such as food apartheid, racial inequality in the food system, working land access, and seed sovereignty. This year’s keynote speaker is Niaz Dorry, the Director of the Northwest Atlantic Marine Alliance and the National Family Farm Coalition. Time Magazine named Niaz a Hero of The Planet for her work with Greenpeace
on environmental justice and fisheries issues. Most notably, she is recognized for her work advancing the rights and ecological benefits of small-scale, traditional, and indigenous fishing and farming communities as a means of protecting global ecological diversity. During the keynote session, CT NOFA also will be awarding the 2nd annual Bill Duesing Organic Living on the Earth Award to an individual or organization who demonstrates advancement of these ideals with a project, innovation, action, or lifestyle that supports the continuation of the life work of Bill CT FOOD & FARM / WINT ER 2020
Duesing, founder of CT NOFA. Bill Duesing, the namesake for this award, was a beloved farmer, artist, activist, and author whose work and passion continues to reverberate across Connecticut on farms, in organizations, and with all those of us who knew him. Learn more about Bill and his work at ctnofa.org/learn-about-our-founder. In addition to education and fellowship, attendees can enjoy the vendor fair where more than 30 local and sustainable businesses and organizations provide goods and information on services throughout the state. At the vendor fair, you can learn about energy savings programs, purchase artisanal soaps and balms, order seeds for spring planting, pick up an alpaca sweater, and grab organic scones and coffee to energize you for a day of learning. So join us on March 7th at Wesleyan University in Middletown for CT NOFA’s 38th Annual Winter Conference, OrganiConn 2020. Registration information is available at ctnofa.org/winterconference. Students and seniors can register for $65, CT NOFA members for $75, and non-members for $85. All rates include lunch. Come to celebrate organics in Connecticut. Make a plan for life that will soon burst through the still-frozen soil in our gardens. Learn about local food movements, advances in agricultural science, and radical social changes taking place all around us. CT FOODANDFARM.COM
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“The Wonder of it, of the season, is life. A birth, any birth, is into life—the fantastic variety of life that covers our planet and nowhere else we know—children and wise woman, sheep and hollies, blue-green algae and maples, rhododendron and catfish—it is life—grandparents and spruce trees—the bacteria in our mouths and the whales in the oceans—It is all life”. – Bill Duesing’s The Wonder of Life, December 22, 1990.
“THE LIFEBLOOD OF CT NOFA IS
THE SUPPORT OF LIKE-MINDED FARMERS, GARDENERS, AND ADVOCATES.”
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Nature
Joy
and
A Collaborative Approach to Whole Body Wellness BY KERRY KINCY TERESA JOHNSON PHOTOS
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"Natu
One
quarter of a mile before reaching the entrance gates to Fort Hill Farms, I could feel my spine relaxing. I had been lulled into reverie with the preceding two miles through this little sleepy town that led me to meet Kristin Orr. Kristin leads and facilitates her personalized Boundless Energy, Joyercise fitness sessions, held individually or in small groups on her farm. The sessions are open to women 18 years and older, and are personalized according to the goals of the individual. Upon turning in, I was dazzled and welcomed to the property by vivacious, ruby-red winterberry bushes popping with vibrant color. I’m not sure I could have chosen a better day to take the hour ride to Thompson, which sits quietly in the farthest northeast corner of our state. The sun was shining and the fall colors were just at their 168
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ure makes us feel alive...” peak as I drove North along 395. Nature makes us feel alive and vital and it renews and restores us continuously, allowing us to feel better, to think well and to deepen our understanding of others and ourselves. The drive itself felt healthy. After exploring the gardens, and as I walked toward the corn maze, I noticed one other vehicle nearby. Despite the howling wind, a petite woman appeared, holding an enormous bundle of branches and tinder. I couldn’t see her face and wasn’t sure if the energy in her step was because she was utilizing the momentum of the gusts - or if she was really cold and seeking refuge from the wind. She loaded the bundle into her Jeep singlehandedly, never putting her heap of branches on the ground, and this is the perfect way to describe Kristin, founder of the Boundless Energy: Joyercize program. She’s a positively radiant individual who shares a huge grin (and an incredible passion for nature) with adults who are hoping to find joy through exercising outdoors. I’d read about Kristin’s own boundless energy and the connections she had personally made over the years to nature - and how she herself had discovered more joy and happiness in the process. More importantly, I learned about the sometimes-forgotten connections between mind and body that, once
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realized, have benefits for whole body wellness. Kristin’s program utilizes the natural gifts of the land she works, to enhance the workouts she leads with others. Kristin explained that many people find going to the gym to work out, or taking a fitness class, overwhelming. Many of us have experienced this: we’re not confident among a sea of experts, or simply intimidated by the machines. Maybe we’re just plain selfconscious. But if going to the gym feels like work, then it will always be work - and exercise should never feel defeating. “You should feel joyous while
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exercising,” said Kristin. “The idea of being inside a building, with florescent lights, on cold machines or even worse, sticky and sweaty ones,” she giggled, “why would anyone choose that over being outside here or anywhere, in nature, exercising and feeling joy at the same time?” Indeed. We have our conversation as Kristin runs up to a pumpkin station to help a familiar customer choose the best pumpkin, then returns to the creamery to scoop two cones of ice cream, and in the midst of it all, prepares for the arrival of her private clients for their
individualized dose of Joyercize. Kristin’s boundless energy commands your attention, and even on the windiest (and chilliest) days, is completely infectious. Her clients today - Mrs. Van Nieuwenhuyze and her daughter Lynn - have begun weekly Joyercise sessions, utilizing the benefits of working out in nature and finding joy in the experience. Memory disease can leave people like Mrs. Van Nieuwenhuyze (and their caregivers), feeling tired, less joyful, more anxious, and even agitated. Behavior and personality often change
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“"You
should
feel joyous while exercising...”
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"Kristin’s program
utilizes the natural gifts
of the land she works, to
enhance the workouts she leads with others.�
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"When you arrive at Fort Hill Farms, you become part of nature’s delight...”
with dementia, and adjusting both mind and body to those ever-changing symptoms is hard work. Dementia can also alter how a person responds to different environments. Noise, crowds and activity may be overstimulating - difficult to process and understand. Lynn and her mom decided Kristin’s program would be perfect for them to try together: “Joyercise is rooted in a lifeaffirming physical space that is safe, non-clinical and emotionally, spiritually and physically stimulating.” Lynn explained. She shared that it’s not only a feel-good, natural
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stimulation to the senses, but also, she realizes that someday, she may not be able to share these experiences with her mother, so these memories are important to create. For Lynn’s mother, familiarity is helpful; Kristin incorporates the normalcy of the routines her mom had in the days before dementia, and she gets to feel like herself again. Memories of drives together, taking in the beauty of the town she’s lived and raised her children in - there’s a safeness and familiarity that eases her, and allows her to feel a sense of self and contribution to her family again.
Part of their individualized Joyercize routine includes bringing milk home for her husband, and of course, celebrating achieving her wellness goals with two scoops of chocolate ice cream. Lynn shares that there’s peace and joy in the ordinary - yet, for her and her mom, extraordinary - time spent with Kristin. Even though her mother may not recollect the time spent there together, the subsequent hours left in the day feel calmer for both of them. “Kristin exemplifies what making the most out of life everyday looks like.”
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"Kristin is
special co
that bridg
between joy
and na
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s the very
onnection
K
ri
st
in
ges the gap
y, exercise
ature.�
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Participating in the session with Mrs. Van Nieuwenhuyze, Lynn and Kristin was a privilege; I was able to witness firsthand the effects that joy and exercise can have on the human spirit. Kristin is the very special connection that bridges the gap between joy, exercise and nature. Effortlessly, she promotes the many benefits that being outdoors can have for all of us, whether strong or weak in our exploration, both physically and for our emotional wellbeing. When you arrive at Fort Hill Farms, you become part of nature’s delight; whether it’s the song of the birds or the sheer enormity of the rolling hills, there’s strength in connecting to nature, and the satisfaction and vitality it brings. Kristin provides these opportunities to give her clients the tools to invite joy into their lives through workout sessions on the farm. These experiences actively engage all the senses and nourish the whole body in meaningful ways. Each client I spoke to was happy that they had chosen this natural approach to wellness. The exploration and discovery of themselves in the process only added to the success they felt physically in their bodies. The relationships created between nature connectedness and happiness appeared to be positive and significant. Nature’s restorative effects may just explain Kristin’s boundless energy that envelops not only her acres of farmland, but everyone who has the chance to stand with her in the sunlight, and witness her radiant joy.
FORT HILL FARMS is located at 260 Quaddick Rd. In Thompson, CT. For more information, call Kristin Orr at 860-923-3439, or email herrootsrundeep@gmail.com.
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DEATH BY
CHOCOLATE
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DeathHAby Chocola Hand-Rolled Chocolate Truffles
ND R O L L E D C H O C O L AT E
T RUFFLES
BY SUSANNE BERNE KATIE PINETTE PHOTOS CT FOODANDFARM.COM
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Truffle craft
When it comes to the world of food gifts, few things are more revered than a hand-rolled chocolate truffle. Essentially consisting of three steps, an endless world of flavor combinations awaits. The process can be daunting unless you have an understanding of the techniques, but the core of the truffle, a ganache, is comprised of an emulsion of chocolate, cream and a liqueur, and can be easily flavored. The ganache gets coated to form a crisp chocolate exterior of tempered chocolate and finally rolled in dark cocoa powder, creating what looks like a nugget pulled from the ground and tastes like it dropped straight from the heavens. The cooler Connecticut months are a wonderful time to embark on a candy making adventure. I usually make over a thousand truffles during the holiday season, bringing them as hostess gifts and keeping boxes around so that visitors can take treats home with them. No two batches are ever exactly alike.
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All chocolate is not created equal.
The type of chocolate required for truffle making is readily available if you know what to look for. Bittersweet chocolate (chocolate with higher amounts of cocoa butter and cocoa solids) with cocoa mass that ranges between 55% and 65%, and a low sugar content, will yield the best result for both the ganache and enrobing. Using a couverture (chocolate that contains a higher amount of cocoa butter) will ensure that the final truffle has superior flavor and texture. Brands like Valhrona, Callebaut, Guittard or Sharffenberger compare to fine wines: every brand and variety has a unique flavor profile, some fruity and others bitter. Changing just the chocolate type can affect the final flavor as if you changed the entire recipe; finding ones that you truly love is half the fun.
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When it comes to the world of food Gifts, few thinGs are more revered than a hand-rolled
chocolate truffle. 183
Make it your own
The center of the truffle, using just the simplest of ingredients in the right amounts, will yield a creamy and flavorful candy base. Think of the cream as blank slate for flavors; this is a way of truly personalizing a confection. Looking for a bright, stringent ganache? Add some orange peel. Want to create an end-of-the-evening palate cleanser? Add fresh mint leaves. Turn to your pantry cupboard for bags of tea - chai or earl grey - to make an infusion that is truly unique to you. Strain out these ingredients before adding them to your ganache, and make sure that the amount of cream is returned to its original volume; ingredients may soak up some of the cream.
The liqueur in the recipe ser
ves two vital purposes: 1. Flavor: changing the liqu eur adds another depth of flavor to the filling, and raidin g the liquor cabinet can ser ve as a source of inspirati on. 2. Shelf life: using liqueur instead of cream greatly extends the life of your truffle .
Don’t lose your “Temper”
The most critical process in making a chocolate truffle is when the ganache center is wrapped in pure chocolate, commonly called enrobing. This step serves the vital purpose of protecting the center from the air, and provides a shelf life for the tasty little treat. Controlling the temperature of the cocoa butter in chocolate, known as tempering, will
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“
The COOLER CONNECTICUT MONTHS ARE A WONDERFUL TIME TO EMBARK ON A CANDY MAKING ADVENTURE. provide a crisp and stable exterior. Two things will be most useful while tempering the chocolate: a microwave for melting and rewarming the chocolate, and a digital thermometer to check the temperature. When you melt roughly half of the chocolate in the microwave, do this in slow increments and stir frequently, maintaining the temperature between 105 F and 115 F. The next step is to cool the chocolate: using small amounts at a time, add in fresh chocolate, stirring to melt and incorporate. Keep adding smaller amounts of chocolate until the thermometer reads below 86 degrees; this a called the seeding method. If it starts to get too cold and set, simply zap a few seconds at time in the microwave, but don’t over-warm it: if the temp is higher than 91 degrees,
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the process will need to be started over. 84F-89F is the correct working temperature for the enrobing process. Tempering chocolate can be challenging: too hot and the truffle won’t be crisp, have a seal or keep its shelf life. But if it’s too cold, it will begin to lump. Don’t worry about a few little lumps; you’re working with your hands and they are easy to avoid and pick out. I would always rather a few lumps than getting the chocolate too hot; that means you have a good temper. If at any point in time the process isn’t going as planned and you lose your temper, it is just chocolate. There’s no harm in letting uncovered centers sit a day; they will be fine. Chocolate can set and be re-melted any number of times. Extra chocolate can become the next round of ganache centers - or a batch of brownies.
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E L P M I S E TH S T N U AMO U F R O V FLA
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T H G I R E H T N I S T N E I D D E N R A G Y N I M F A E O R T C ES A D L E I Y L L I W , S . Y D N A C L U
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FINISH STRONG
The final touch of a traditional truffle is rolling them in dark cocoa powder to give it that earthen finish. Rules need not apply, though, as any item can be the finishing touch to your homemade confection. Almost anything will stick to the melted chocolate and can add both a unique flavor and texture to a truffle. Finish with finely-chopped nuts, grated chocolate, dried fruit powders or a touch of sea salt. I often take a single flavor of ganache centers and finish them with two or three different touches.
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TRUFFLE RECIP (Makes 80-100 truffles)
INGREDIENTS 8 oz. heavy cream 2 oz. glucose syrup 15 oz. dark chocolate, chopped 1.5 oz. soft butter 1 oz. liqueur 2 lb. chocolate, for tempering
Special equipment: digital thermomete
1. In a saucepan, combine heavy cre Pour heavy cream mixture over the 2 mins.
2. Using a spoon or spatula, start in t circles. Gradually increase the size incorporated and free of any lump
3. Add in the soft butter and the lique creating a silky ganache.
4. Pour the ganache in a shallow bak
5. Place plastic wrap directly on top o 1-2 hours until mixture is firm but s
6. Using a piping bag or small ice cr round balls; allow to set for two ho
After creating your ganache centers, t chocolate.
Hand-roll each truffle in a light coatin set, repeat a second time or dip for a in dark cocoa powder and cover com before removing and packaging. Fini
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PE
er.
eam and glucose syrup and bring to a boil. e chopped chocolate. Allow to sit for approx.
the middle of the bowl and stir in very small e of the circle until the entire mixture is ps.
eur and stir until the mixture is smooth,
king dish.
of the ganache and allow to sit at room temp. still creamy.
ream scoop, form the ganache into small ours.
the next step is to coat them in tempered
ng of tempered chocolate. Once first coat is slightly thicker shell. Then, place the truffle mpletely. Allow to harden at least two minutes ished truffles will last up to one month.
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GANACHE FIL LING FLAVORS: Dark & Stormy Truffle: Ginger-infused cream, dark rum liqueur, crystalized ginger finish. Almond Joy: Coconut rum, rolled in toasted almonds. Mojito: Mint-infused cream, white rum liqueur White Russian: Coffee-infused cream, vodka Mexican Hot Chocolate: Cayenne pepper infused cream, tequila Maple Ginger Bread: Replace glucose syrup with maple syrup; add a pinch of gingerbread spice Manhattan: Infuse orange zest and ginger; add bourbon as the liquor
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TIPS FOR SUCCESS Make the ganache centers smaller than you think they should be; they grow once coats are added, and truffles are best when small and delicate. Truffles are meant to look like the earth; even imperfect ones are delicious (and almost everyone loves chocolate)! Clean up in between each step. Chocolate has a way of spreading on its own. Always buy and temper more chocolate than you think you’ll need. Only fresh chocolate can be used for seeding. If you do run out of tempered chocolate for coating, just roll the ganache in cocoa powder. They won’t last but a couple of days, but they’re delicious nonetheless. There is no harm in a little extra time between steps; don’t feel the need to rush this process through.
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Behind the Pages
our contributors
Susanne Berne, wife and mother of 2, has
Gena Golas is a pastry chef and mom of two
Laurie Bonneau is a photographer for
Teresa Johnson is an animal-
worked in hotels and bakeries across the south. She is currently the pastry chef for Bianco Rosso in Trumbull and Wilton.
nationally known nonprofit organizations, family farms, and magazines such as this glorious one.
Winter Caplanson, our founder and editorin-chief, is thrilled to photograph the local food movement for this and other magazines.
incredible kids. She thinks 2020 is the year she finds balance in both.
obsessed cat mom who chases light and love across Connecticut. Find her @ teresajohnsonphotography.
Tommy Juliano Jr. is a washed up pastry chef
turned dessert specialist and culinary mercenary.
Sean Dutson is executive chef of the Revere
Kerry Kincy, a movement therapist, is working to change the world one groove at a time. Her love of dimmer switches keeps her in the best mood lighting possible.
Lori Drouin Dziedzic of Flatland Alpacas in
Chelsea Kramer, a dog obsessed transplant from Colorado, found her home in the restaurant business where she cultivated her love of creation, flavor, and people. She leads The Half Door in Hartford.
Hotel Boston Common and its restaurant, Rebel’s Guild.
Pachaug grows plants for textile dyeing. She raises alpacas for their fiber for her weaving, and makes kiln-fired ceramic buttons.
WINTER CAPLANSON PHOTO
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Cara Marcoux is an antique dealer who sometimes pillages her stock for personal use. Find her on Instagram as @junipervintage. Lisa Nichols, photographer at Bread &
Beast Food Photography, works with restaurants and chefs creating imagery for marketing and advertising.
Mallory O’Connor is mom of three, a blogger
and a (self-proclaimed) short order cook. You can follow her adventures at normalmomsclub.com
Jeremy Pelletier is a New England transplant from Hawai’i who spends his days working at NOFA, searching for good food and drink, and buying too many houseplants.
Carlos Perez, Executive Chef of Chez 180 in
Westport, is preparing for the restaurant’s grand opening while consistently striving to perfect his craft.
Katie Pinette will be hibernating for the rest of the winter with the three “C’s”- Coffee, cats and cook books.
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Rita Rivera, Connecticut Food and Farm’s
Graphic Designer, was sick while designing this issue and would like give a shout-out to Kleenex and NyQuil.
Jake Snyder of Red Skies Photography specializes editorial, commercial, landscape, and portraiture, with a strong focus on commercial architecture photography. Courtney Squire spends her days growing
veggies on her farm, Unbound Glory, in Northeast CT, and weekends in her food truck with husband Adam, making local bellies happy with their fieldto-plate menus.
Sherry Swanson, Personal chef and Corporate
Flight Attendant, is one part procurement maven, two parts food geek, and one part experience artist.
Matt Wick is the culinary director at Atticus
Cafe and Bakery in New Haven. He loves being outside and finding fun things to eat.
Kristin L Wolfe spends much of her time as a writing professor at various NY/CT colleges or brushing the long hair of her 100lb shepherd.
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