COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
THE DA ILY Spring / Summer 2016
FUN FAB FUR
SAKS POTTS
MASTER CLASS
MARK KENLY DOMINO TAN
70s SEDUCTION BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN
SUN-KISSED SUITS
BRUUNS BAZAAR
No. 3
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
No. 3 Spring Summer 2016
August 7
MODEL BEHAVIOR ELSEBETH MOURITZEN
dy Crawford, was deciding whether her own doppleganger daughter should follow in her footsteps. Every bit her mother’s beauty, the tween had caught the eye of photographers among friends of her famous parents. This fall, she debuts in Vogue Italia and Carine Roitfeld’s Fashion Book at a mere 13. “My mother doesn’t want me to start a career too young,” Kaia told Teen Vogue late last year. “She started modeling when she was 16, but that world is very different now.”
Editor-in-Chief
I met the Danish psychologist, author, and former super model Renèe Helmig Simonsen in New York last fall at the memorial for the late modeling matriarch Eileen Ford, who discovered her in 1982. In town with her family, she also wanted to see her almost lookalike daughter off to a good start in international modeling at the ripe age of 20, which is unusually late these days. Renée was 16 when she embarked on her career as a Face of the Eighties, but the mother hen used her own experience to convince Ulrikke to start off a little older. It must have been around the time we met in New York that another super model, Cin-
Or is it? Not entirely so, according to Danish Fashion Institute. It has successfully renewed the Ethical Charter, originally written in 2007, which encourages all participants in the fashion industry to secure protective and reasonable work conditions for young models. The new version of the charter, when passed in March 2015, was quickly signed by 350 companies. Many more than those who are required to do so in order to show during Copenhagen Fashion Week.
one with a BMI of less than 18 from working in the modeling industry. This may still sound like skinny to some, but at least there is a limit. And even though French fashion professionals claim that politicians are confusing anorexia with slimness, failure to comply can result in penalties. In Denmark, it is voluntary, not law-enforced, to follow the Ethical Charter, also at other times of the year than during fashion week. But it is becoming that so many different parties involved in the fashion industry want to help change the culture and promote a healthier body ideal; it is also in tune with the times and the consumers. Not to mention agents having the dignity and patience to let aspiring models wait a couple of years to lose the facial baby fat and gain the confidence it takes to reflect a credible human image, one that goes beyond beauty defined by adolescence only.
The Danish act is making news abroad, too, as other countries look to adopt guidelines for age, health, and pay. In France, it has long been a requirement that models must be 16 to appear on the runway, as in Denmark, and assisted to photo shoots by relatives when younger than that. This spring, the French legislature passed a bill banning any-
Check out the show schedule at C O P E N H A G E N FA S H I O N W E E K . C O M & download our free app for more details go to C O P E N H A G E N FA S H I O N F E S T I VA L . C O M
CONTRIBUTORS
PUBLISHER: Copenhagen Fashion Week
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT: Frederik Højgaard
EXECUTIVE EDITOR: Anne Christine Persson
ART DIRECTOR: Marie Brodersen
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: Elsebeth Mouritzen
GRAPHIC DESIGNER: Liv Caroline Hotvedt Laursen
SUB-EDITOR: Magnus Jorem
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WRITERS: Moussa Mchangama, Lotte Freddie, Sille Henning, Jeppe Ugelvig COVER PHOTO: Luka Roné at Saks Potts PHOTOGRAPHERS: Luka Roné, Helena Lundquist, Victor Jones. All show photos provided by Copenhagen Fashion Week
SALES: Julie Steenstrup DISTRIBUTION: Maya Juel Ladewig Andersen PRINT: Berlingske Avistryk
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R EVOLV E R INTERNATIONAL FASHION TRADE SHOW COPENHAGEN
REPRESENTING THE LEADING SCANDINAVIAN CONTEMPORARY DESIGNER BRANDS 2OR+BY YAT 5PREVIEW 7 FOR ALL MANKIND A QUESTION OF ALLY CAPELLINO AMERICAN VINTAGE ANDERSEN & ANDERSEN ARMOR LUX ASGER JUEL LARSEN ASICS ATP ATELIER BACK BY ANN-SOFIE BACK BARACUTA BARBARA I GONGINI BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN BIBI CHEMNITZ BILLIONAIRE BOYS CLUB BLUE DE GÊNES BROOKS ENGLAND BY THE NO CAPITAL GOODS CATHRINE HAMMEL CHEAP MONDAY CRIMINAL DAMAGE CUTULICULT DENHAM THE JEANMAKER DR. MARTENS MADE IN ENGLAND EPICE FREYA DALSJØ GABBA GARMENT PROJECT GRAUMANN GRENSON GUÐRUN & GUÐRUN HANSEN HENRIK VIBSKOV HESTRA HOPE HOSS INTROPIA HOUSE OF DAGMAR HUMANOID IVAN GRUNDAHL JANE KØNIG LEE JEANS LEON LOUIS LEVIS MADE & CRAFTED LIGHTNING BOLT LINDA FARROW LYLE & SCOTT M. WIESNECK MADS NØRGAARD MAJESTIC MARIA BLACK JEWELLERY MASON SCOTCH MAX.TAN MAXJENNY ME AND MY BROTHERS MINIMARKET MINIMUM MUNDERINGSKOMPAGNIET MÅNESTRÅLE NANUSHKA NEBEL NEW BALANCE NORWEGIAN RAIN ODD MOLLY PELECHECOCO PENDELTON WOOLEN MILLS PENFIELD RANSOM REBEKKAREBEKKA REEBOK CLASSIC REVOLUTION RIKA ROBERTO COLLINA RPL MAISON S. N. S. HERNING SAINT JAMES SAMSØE & SAMSØE SANDQVIST SCOTCH & SODA SOPHIE BY SOPHIE SOULLAND STELLA NOVA STINE GOYA STYLEIN THE LAST CONSPIRACY THOM KROM TWIN SET UNIVERSAL WORKS UNSUNG COPENHAGEN URBAHIA UTZON VETRA VIBE HARSLØF WACKERHAUS WE LOVE JEANS WESC WHYRED WON HUNDRED WOOD WOOD WOOLRICH YVONNE KONÉ ÖRJAN ANDERSSON WITH MANY MORE TO COME
AUGUST 5th - 7th, 2015 COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK WWW.REVOLVER.DK
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
No. 3 Spring Summer 2016
August 7
BON APPETIT We all know that beauty is as big a part of your look, regardless of clothes – if your hair is a mess, even the most expensive Givenchy dress can’t help you. That was the message behind a new initiative launched this fashion week by an experienced power duo, beauty expert Charlotte Torpegaard and trend guru Uffe Buchard, who have hand-picked 10 beauty brand favorites that ensure enticing, glowing skin. From the anti-aging Save My Face-pillow that everybody is raving about to the Icelandic wonder-serum that also beautifies faces like Uma Thurman’s and Lara Stone’s. The Beauty Buffet, as the two have named their exclusive event, was served for a select VIP-crowd of Danish celebrities, including TV-stars Eva Harlou and Cecilie Lassen, actress Ellen Hillingsø, top model Nadja Bender and style icon Pernille Teisbæk, who laid arms, lips and ears to the beauty tips and products prepping them for fashion week. No more getting lost in the beauty jungle, at least for the lucky few.
THE IDEAL LOOK
PAPER COUTURE
It’s an ongoing debate what makes great style, but also what and who defines the look of fashion. In two different Fashion Talks on Saturday at 13:00 and 15:00 on Nytorv, expert panels will discuss diversity in fashion, both as a public phenomenon and on a more personal level.
Danish designer and artist Marianne Eriksen Scott-Hansen brings poetry to retail during fashion week. She is known for her unique talent for paper-cutting to create interesting patterns, which she perfected in laser-cut leather with her own former label, Daughters of Style, and which has given her a permanent place at Design Museum Danmark.
The first talk challenges the will of the fashion industry to embrace ethnicity, body, beauty, gender and age. Emma Leth, model, Søren Hedegaard, hair and makeup artist, Moussa Mchangama, fashion journalist, and Ane Lynge-Jorlén, fashion researcher, touch on the subject of discriminating beauty- and body ideals, and who is creating them.
Now she gives the paperwork new dimensions with delicate, voluminous flowers that are highly sought after in the fashion and decorating world. She transforms her refined cutting techniques from leather to paper and uses both materials in artistic paper couture space installations and window dressing.
A few hours later, four women, each with their own distinct look, take the audience at the Fashion Talks through their personal style universe. Pernille Teisbæk, blogger at Look de Pernille, Malene Malling, publisher at Malling Publications, Szhirley, singer, and Lotte Freddie, fashion journalist and former fashion editor, will talk about how they stay true to their individuality and while changing their looks according to trends and seasons.
She impressed everyone with her giant wall of flowers for the red carpet at Elle Style Awards in the spring, and this week you can enjoy her talented organic craftsmanship in the boutiques of jewelers Jane Kønig, Edith Hegedüs, and P.Hertz in downtown Copenhagen.
WHY SHOP WHEN YOU CAN SWAP?
NORDIC CASHMERE Although it operates in the Far East, the recently conceived label Limbo Cashmere comes with a taste of New Nordic: It uses the world’s best materials with local and perfected craftsmanship, and emphasizes sustainability.
Did you know that 80% of the clothes we throw away still have 75% of their lifetime left? Copenhagen Fashion Festival has come up with a fashionable solution to this issue and to promote sustainable consumption: Fashion Exchange - a big clothing swap market where you can take action for the environment while renewing your wardrobe, for free! The concept is simple: bring at least one piece of clothing in good condition and take home anything you like. The Fashion Exchange swap market was first held in Copenhagen in 2013 where 1,500 people swapped some seven tons clothing.
Behind the brand are multi-talented artist Sophus Ritto and Thomas Hargreave, who has worked in and around the high-end fashion industry for almost two decades. With Limbo Cashmere, the two Danes have tried not only to create a luxurious fashionable product, but also to provide help to Nepalese people, who suffered greatly during the recent earthquakes, by creating local jobs.
Fashion Exchange takes place tomorrow, Saturday, 8 August, at City Hall Square from 11.00 to 16.00.
Limbo Cashmere’s first collection, launching at Revolver, is woven by Nepalese hands in the finest Nepalese cashmere and dyed in
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three regional colors by sprinkling natural materials on the fabrics for about three days. As weather influences the dying process, each piece is unique. The collection – in 100 per cent premium organic cashmere, AA class – consists of finely knitted long-sleeved shirts and soft cashmere leggings, ribbed sweaters and shorts. And the ultimate pajamas for both sexes.
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vimmelsK aftet 42 (strøget) 1161 KøbenHavn K
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COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
No. 3 Spring Summer 2016
August 7
FEMMES VITALES Perhaps it is the “je ne sais quoi”, the unknown factor, that makes creative agency Femmes Regionales able to celebrate its tenyear anniversary with bravura this week. Not to be confused with letting things take their own course, but by searching for that special thing in a client that will transform a new visual identity, a show or a shop design into something unique. Mie Albæk Nielsen and Caroline Hansen started from scratch as young entrepreneurs without borrowing a penny, and their small company has grown – organically, and through crises and developments in a fashion industry under pressure – to now employ seven women in a healthy business. They have worked with veterans and newcomers, but the collaboration they are most proud of is that with the brand Baum und Pferdgarten.
Femmes Regionales find it exhilarating that the Danish fashion design tradition seems to have reinvented itself in combination with a good sense of business. They believe that the unpretentious attitude in Danish design, and the Danish lifestyle overall, is very special, and what the international market finds so refreshing. Anniversary party? Not just yet, they are too busy with fashion week.
SEPTEMBER ISSUE
EMBRACING CURVES
One of Danish fashion’s finest creative people, Kim Grenaa, launches a online fashion- and lifestyle universe for both genders this September.
For decades, designer Benedikte Utzon has excelled in creating sleek, fashionable collections for womanly wearers. Being largesize herself, she’s finally found the courage to emerge with a new style-conscious brand for the curvy consumer.
The-counsel.com will be a platform updated daily that gives users access to the latest tendencies through interviews and guides from an expert panel put together by Kim Grenaa. Though a highly respected voice himself, Kim has personally chosen two handfuls of people he’s always has been inspired by through their qualified knowledge and position.
Without renouncing the qualities that have always been her trademark in terms of cut, flair, and materials, she debuts with 50 styles spanning sizes 38 to 54 under the name My Little Curvy Love.
The goal is to create an online universe that balances between personal blog and specialty lifestyle section in print newspapers. Created and developed in cooperation with head of Fashion Exclusive Anette Kjærgaard, Grenaa has chosen experts from Denmark and abroad, including Anita Barr from Harvey Nichols, Simone Marchetti from La Repubblica, and Katie Freeman from mytheresa. com, to write on fashion, design, and a variety of lifestyle topics. He will also contribute personally on a weekly basis as the fashion maven he has been for decades.
It has taken her a long time to make the bold move from the so-called established fashion universe to that of the less attention-grabbing target group of curvy women, also due to her own vanity. Now she finds herself ready to meet the challenge, especially after the backing she got when she posted the news on social media.
Besides the obvious, the site will also focus on travel, interior, art, watches and jewellery, when it goes live.
– I don’t care whether it is smart to design for larger women. To me this is about so much more. Primarily to be human-oriented rather than fashion-oriented, says the designer.
LOOK OF THE YEAR
SKY HIGH GLAMOUR
– I know from personal experience exactly how the clothes should fit in order to enhance the body in the best possible way, Utzon says of her collection, which comes in classic black, white, grey and rose.
There are already 25,000 winners in Tanzania who have gotten their vision improved with used, donated glasses through Louis Nielsen since 2010. Now, one more person is about to get lucky.
for good looks or better sight is optional. The winner gets a makeover photo shoot, besides the grand prize of travelling to Africa with the Louis Nielsen team to help with eye tests and distribution of glasses.
In recognition of the public backing of the project, the Danish optometrist chain encourages benefactors to enter the modeling contest Brillelook 2015 (Glass Look of The Year 2015) through their website and social media. The grand prize? Becoming the ambassador of the “Give sight to Tanzania” charity.
The winner will follow in the footsteps of patron Eva Kruse, CEO of Danish Fashion Institute, who visited Tanzania earlier this year with professional optometrists, to get a closer look at the recycling and reaching-out aspects of the charity.
The seventies have been continually referenced throughout the past seasons of Copenhagen Fashion Week. To help you recreate the voluminous hairstyles of the latest it-decade, TONI&GUY Hair Meet Wardrobe introduces the new Sky High Volume Dry Shampoo. Already an essential part of our fashion week survival kits, this dry shampoo keeps your hair from looking dull and allows you to create a voluminous and textured look thanks to its 75% volumising agents. TONI&GUY Hair Meet Wardrobe is sold exclusively at Matas.
Whether the entrants choose to wear glasses
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- We go back a long way, and this proves our vision: if you hold on to what you are good at, and continue to tell the same story in new ways and contexts, your customers will continue to fall in love with your product. They are fantastic to work with, because the core of their business is creativity, just like in ours, say Mie Albæk Nielsen and Caroline Hansen.
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No. 3 Spring Summer 2016
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
August 7
THE GREEN, GREEN GRASS OF HOME SAKS POTTS Time: 19:00 Place: City Hall Words: Lotte Freddie
They are 20 and 21 years old. They started their brand, Saks Potts, two years ago, and right away they sold to Colette in Paris.Yesterday evening, Catherine Saks and Barbara Potts demonstrated the reason for such unusual success at their first show ever, when their fun, young and colorful furs and silks took to a grass-green catwalk turf at City Hall. Theirs is design with edge and attitude. This season that means a collection done in collaboration with Kopenhagen Fur with green as a repeated theme. In different shades where brown lamb has lapels and cuffs in different greens – and a backstrap in red mink. Bottle-green fox is used as cuffs or down the front of one side of a grey lamb coat; and a green zig-zag lightning shoots across a shaved lamb jacket. Barbara and Catherine tell me that my coral Tibetan lamb Mulberry coat has been an inspiration. A good one – their green, yellow, and bright red Tibetan lamb furs are bang-on, as are redor yellow-colored short capes in the same fur with black bands as sleeves. Silk is cut into a couple of kimonos in two greens, red and white. New at Saks Potts are a wrap dress and an off-the-shoulder blouse with match trousers in a white/red/black/burgundy silk print, as well as long safari satin dresses in white or light brown satin. Saks Potts’ young furs appeal to all ages, and with moderate prices to match.
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R AV E N P R OJ E C TS BY C I F F A UNI Q UE NEXT G ENERATION M ENSW EAR AND L I FESTYLE EX PERIENC E 5–7 AU G U ST 2 015 B EL L A CENTER COPENHAG EN C IFF.DK
No. 3 Spring Summer 2016
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
August 7
SILVER & GOLD & ALL THINGS NICE BY MALENE BIRGER Time: 14:00 Place: Lokomotivværkstedet Words: Lotte Freddie
Crown Princess Mary yesterday made her first appearance during Copenhagen Fashion Week at the show of a favorite brand of hers, By Malene Birger. Beautiful, in a long, black ruffled chiffon dress. The royal length was almost a sign of what was about to be shown on the catwalk: mostly the difficult midi-length with asymmetrical hems. You have to be tall and slim to pull it off, especially in the demanding rib knit favored by the designer, Christina Exsteen, who had used the 70s as inspiration. Orange-flamed as abstract patterns and as edgings on white. As was gold - also used in knit or as embroidery on white. Here were lots of white and eggshell: in fringed or wave-woven skirts and blouses, in trouser suits and dresses – plain, or with lushly embroidered clusters in gold and silver. White worked brilliantly with large black checks as a bouclé trouser suit and as a silk shirt lightly lined in grey with matching trousers trimmed with a wide burgundy hem. Burgundy also impressed as a fab shaved lamb poncho – quite new and inventive. Delicious nougat leather sways in flared trousers and the most covetable jackets in fringed navy bouclé with matching or striped trousers are absolute must-haves. And for the extra oomph entrance, Exsteen offered a long silk crepe dead-opulent Valentino dress in red. Long live glamour.
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No. 3 Spring Summer 2016
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
August 7
JUST KIDS BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN Time: 16.00 Place: Langelinie Pavilion Words: Sille Henning
A young Patti Smith, as depicted in her autobiography Just Kids, struggling as an artist in her early New York days, was the inspiration behind the new Baum und Pferdgarten collection. So forget all about hardcore rock n’ roll and picture instead a girlier, more romantic look, accompanied by a quirky model cast and a string quartet playing rearranged songs from Smith’s debut album, Horses, and you have the essence of the collection. It was beautiful. Building on the strong Baum und Pferdgarten DNA, the designer duo showed how to master prints and evolve styles from past collection while remaining innovative. Like the purple suede shorts combined with a feminine blossom print, the scarf-printed silk pants, or the denim with raw edges mixed with a feminine white shirt featuring little flowers. Last season’s drawstring 70s suede blouses were also updated in a feminine woven material. Another one was last season’s big hit, the almost three-dimensional lace styles (seen on several front rowers this season) which appeared in the new collection on a bomber jacket and a cocoon-shaped coat. The bright blue jacquard suit with slim cropped pants and a fitted jacket were among my personal favorites. Baum und Pferdgarten has, over the last few seasons, become a street style darling among fashion editors and international bloggers. I am sure that this collection, too, will be seen strolling along at upcoming international fashion weeks. Well done!
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FOOD BEFORE FA S H I O N ?
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P R O U D P A R T N E R O F Copenhagen Fashion Week
No. 3 Spring Summer 2016
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
August 7
HERCULEAN TASK MARK KENLY DOMINO TAN Time: 17:00 Place: Nicolai Plads Words: Moussa Mchangama
It was an almost impossible task for Mark Kenly Domino Tan to create something more spectacular than his successful show last season. With his presentation at The Royal Theatre, he hit a home run and conquered fashion week. So what do you do this time around, when expectations are higher than high? You do what you do best. Which, in this case, is beautiful, perfectly fitted craftsmanship in both evening gowns and sets for everyday wear. Inspired by old, handmade maps of ancient Rome, he showed an eye for combining color – the opening set with a green coat, maroon dress, light-pink trousers and an olive-green belt gave a surprise. The color combination showed personality and sass, as did the figure-hugging pieces in flickering shades of grey with small squares. They got coolness and contrast to the ladylike silhouettes by having fringes on the back. Evening gowns were otherworldly – sculptural, floorlength and huge, they demanded attention. Once again, the designer worked with textile company Kvadrat to produce his textiles, just like this season’s seal fur (a co-lab with Kopenhagen Fur) looked gorgeous. A bright golden green, it was reversible and dyed gold on the skin side. Mark Kenly Domino Tan also commented on the industry’s obsession with how gender is performed and created – he cast a male model in the show, a great way to comment on the sexes and his own highly feminine clientele. It wasn’t as grand and breathtaking as his last show, but as difficult sequels go, this one was absolutely beautiful. Passed.
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ÅBENT MANDAG - SØNDAG 10-20 • KØB OGSÅ PÅ MAGASIN.DK
No. 3 Spring Summer 2016
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
August 7
PASS THE AFTER-SUN BRUUNS BAZAAR Time: 18:00 Place: Bruuns Bazaar Words: Jeppe Ugelvig
True to summer tradition, Bruuns Bazaar opened the doors to the sumptous courtyard in their Silkegade HQ. The sun-kissed audience perfectly matched the collection, which was hazily reminiscent of an endless summer in Ibiza. Pinkish satin dresses and salmon-colored pieces for men and women, guys in breezy white mesh shirts and girls in textured satins, the Bruuns clique presented the kids you’d want to stick close to. The salmon monochromatic suits captured the essence of a Danish take on Mediterranean glamour. As an ode to the 70s hey-day, some lost tropes of jet-set extravaganza were brought back from the dead: the (previously much-shamed) silver kitten heel, for example, as well as the all-present neck scarves in black, gold, and beige. The super shiny, sequin-embellished dress shoes for the guys seemed slightly over the top, though – the danger of pursuing such a distinctive period of style is that you easily affirm the obvious clichés. Thankfully, a contemporary touch was added with the integration of shiny synthetics in baby-pink and -blue on jackets and skirts, matched with loose black shorts. It was a cohesive army of laid-back allure, sure to steal hearts in the sun-craving Scandinavian clientele. Creative director Lene Borgaard exhibited a marvelous craftsmanship with the perfectly fitted designs on the rose-tinted models. She devoted herself fully to her story and concept, while translating it elegantly to the Bruuns universe. Pass the after-sun, please.
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MAGNETIC
No. 3 Spring Summer 2016
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
August 7
THE YELLOW BRICK ROAD GANNI Time: 20.00 Place: Fabrikken Words: Sille Henning Yesterday’s Ganni show was probably the label’s best ever. Titled ‘Optimistic,’ the new collection balanced the fine line between attitude and feminine spirit, which has made Ganni the goto brand for a large crowd of models, editors, and bloggers. There was a yellow line through the collection, seen in the bold yellow flower print on a black background and the yellow bikini under a see-through vintage-like pearl dress. Also on the yellow tracksuit details on a pair of black pants worn by top model Nadja Bender in the opening look, and even just as a thin stripe on some of the shoes. There was less outerwear than we’ve usually seen from the brand, which has given us many warm and cuddly coats. Instead there were many more transitional jackets like the soft trench coat, the belted leather jacket, and the wool blazer. A long printed chiffon kimono mixed with bias striped silk pants, a soft 90s-inspired white skirt suit with a thigh high slit – and my personal favorite, soft beige dungarees mixed with a heat-pleated turtleneck and a tone-in-tone blazer – were all perfect examples of how the collection blended relaxed tailoring with sporty details, giving it that everyday feel we like so much.
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t e k k i l b e j ø Fang Olympus med
T E D N I V A R E M A K
Deltag i den store foto konkurrence hver dag på Copenhagen Fashion Festival. Hovedpræmien er et kamera til det bedste billede på festivalen. Lån et Olympus kamera gratis på Copenhagen Fashion Festival i en time. Det eneste du skal gøre er at huske billede id samt et dankort vi kan registrere depositum på.
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
No. 3 Spring Summer 2016
August 7
RESPONSIBLE ACTION FONNESBECH Time: 12:00 Place: Revolver Village Words: Moussa Mchangama
So, they’re not exactly revolutionizing the look of fashion at Fonnesbech. It’s not the place you should look for the newest trends – but that is, after all, not their goal. Instead, Fonnesbech is pleading a much-needed case for responsibility and sustainability. That’s why you’ll find classic designs inspired by workwear and traditional tailoring, paired with loose designs in silk. The collection, titled New Poetics, was an airy, lighter, and more youthful offering without the density of previous ones. With shades of blue, mint and off-white, the best pieces included the white suit with cut-outs on the shoulders (it opened the show on model Charlie Bredal), a floorlength and flowing marine blue dress with high slits, a set with a deep blue top and mint trousers, and the pieces in a gorgeous graphic fabric with light and deep blue – it doesn’t look like it, but it’s actually made of silk mixed with recycled plastic bottles. That’s very telling of Fonnesbech – you’ll find Oeko-tex silk and organic cottons, just like the knit was made from threads from recycled jeans. “We are unstoppable,” the music chanted. With Copenhagen Fashion Week’s green agenda, it’s inspiring to see a brand actually producing and creating sustainable fashion that looks smart and fashionable without ever being too herbal. With this new approach (and a much-needed stylist used for the first time!), Fonnesbech is back on the right track after a few missteps. Even though there’s still work to be done before Fonnesbech is unstoppable, their mission is not only admirable, it’s worth supporting.
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SERENE EXTRAVAGANCE IVAN GRUNDAHL Time: 15:00 Place: Revolver Words: Jeppe Ugelvig
The doyen of Danish womenswear, Ivan Grundahl, is only Danish due to his birth certificate, for he is distinctively and refreshingly international in his oeuvre. This has secured him a steadfast, wealthier and more mature following in his native country, which was visible at the official Revolver venue Thursday afternoon: it oozed of an intellectual and familial vibe as the crowd gathered to see their clan leader flex his aesthetic muscles. Ivan Grundahl’s only comment on his show was that he had ”gone amok in a washed canvas toile.” And quite frankly, he was not kidding: a dozen looks in the rough, cheap but flexible material usually used by designers for preparatory pattern-cutting, opened the show to the sound of the uninhibited “Baby’s on Fire” from cult 80s film Velvet Goldmine. Via Grundahl, toile showed lux potential: its off-white, ruffled texture was used as floral appliqué on sweaters, smart fitted jackets and lavish beach-vibe knitwear. Thankfully, what began as an exercise in monochrome eventually transcended into experimentation with a variety of color-schemes. A literal splash of color adorned an elegant cocktail dress, and there were actual couture moments as he applied his ruffled textiles to architectural eveningwear in uninterrupted black and red. Grundahl masters a particular serene extravagance, which is why he appeals to a wide range of customers. While his asymmetric cocktail dress with a mesh finish was easily imagined at a graduate party, his black two-pieces fit perfectly the mature, art-collecting executive. Having been active for three decades, Grundhahl knows his woman and where he can take her. This summer it seemed as if she went to the beach, the board meeting, and the ball all at once.
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STREET STYLE Photographer Victor Jones captures the strongest looks from off the runways. 1
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1 — MODELS 2 — JUSTIN O’SHEA 3 — FUNDA CHRISTOPHERSEN
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Stylist Denis Bjerregaard tried summoning satan during the Tan show.
“Public figure” Kenny Aleksandr expresses his outrageous personality with grey t-shirts.
Jeweler Charlotte Lynggaard and quick-change artist Ellen Hillingsø give their best “fashion shows are our natural habitat” faces.
IN HEAVEN’S NAME A rising star in the fashion heavens, Mark Tan’s runway show drew an excited pack of movers and shakers eager to rise just as high. Photos: Helena Lundquist, Words: Magnus Jorem Jeweler Rebekka Notkin and gallery manager Maria Foerlev have been in this industry for a very long time.
Thank heaven for free alcohol, says photographer Steen Sundland.
Bel Sac’s Camilla Dalsager loves assaulting all senses with heavenly pleasure at once.
Ironflag’s Rozanna Fritz and The Daily’s Moussa Mchangama have been in the fashion game for what feels like decades but onwards they soar to heights yet unreached.
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Industry veteran Niels Mikkelsen and CFW’s Eva Kruse discussed the dirty business called fashion and what they can do together to make it cleaner.
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Stylist of the stars Anja Camilla Alajdi with heavenly designer Mark Tan himself.
Kalle Heimburger is in search of new opportunities within fashion, styling, and visual merchandising! Call him!
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) Model couple Tobias Sørensen and Jasmine Tookes recently got paid vast amounts of money for putting the salivating smooches they’d be enjoying anyway on camera for CK.
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Wardrobe existentialists Veronika Heilbrunner and Justin O’Shea ponder the question, what is death? What happens to the body after fashion suicide?
Sune of Scoop Models, seen with boss Bente and one of their minions, always makes sure everyone has a good time at the office.
SOCIAL REGISTER The By Malene Birger show drew a bunch of society types who make a living being photographed, ranging from blogger royalty to actual royalty to actual models. Photos: Helena Lundquist, Words: Magnus Jorem ) Architect Eva Harlou arrived in the hopes of drawing queensblood. “The night is dark and full of terrors,” she said in a raspy voice. “But the fire burns them all away.”
Dainty does it, it’s really that simple, recommends actress Marie Tourell Søderberg.
Singer Oh Land was about as thrilled about being there as she was for her last dentist appointment.
Everyone knows that an expensive wardrobe is just an ugly girl’s excuse for great legs.
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Actress Ellen Hillingsø believes in cultural integration and brought an immigrant friend to Malene Birger. Fashion unites all!
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All eyes are always glued to le look de Pernille! Today she’s a walking battlefield between meadow frolicker and corporate executive, but what wacky outfit will this crazy blogger wear tomorrow? We are filled with anticipation.
The important personality known as Coco O shares her name with a former soccer player from Cameroon who has a higher Google ranking.
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Hostess Nancy Stannard moseyed up to sexy special guest Oliver Cooke of the Starworks Group.
Stuart Brumfitt of i-D Magazine and hostess Johanna Leitch had an exceptionally jolly time.
Daryoush Haj-Najafi (Complex Magazine) and Alex James Taylor (Hero Magazine) prefer blindfolded white-water rafting in Colorado.
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The raft passed through the Christianshavn district, where several passengers begged for a stopover to do some green Copenhagen shopping.
ROCKY RAFT RIDE The VIP guests of Copenhagen International Fashion Fair were taken for a rocky log raft ride around the harbor on Thursday before arriving at a waterside reception. Photos: Helena Lundquist, Words: Magnus Jorem Touba London’s Trevor Griffith probably doesn’t know that wearing a green hat in Chinese tradition signifies that your lover has been unfaithful to you.
Zalando’s Nadine Sanchez arrived in a green dress that screamed “I am the daughter of the Ocean. My name... is Eurynome.”
On land, Riots Agency’s Bent Lee’s tight leather pants reacted to the seawater’s proximity in a very uncomfortable way.
Contrary to appearances, Alice Casely-Hayford of Hunger Magazine and Graeme Moran, Drapers, are highly experienced rafters and once recreated Thor Heyerdahl’s Kon-Tiki exhibition across the Pacific.
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Known as the dark wizard of the Henrik Vibskov empire, Rune Park did his best to charm Voo Store’s Herbert Hoffman, because Voo Store is in Berlin, and Herbert lives in Berlin, and Rune really likes Berlin.
Emma Anderson (Harvey Nichols) and David Hershkovits (Paper Magazine) discussed every topic known to the internet except that damned Kardashian crack.
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The CEO of Willy Chavarria, Willy Chavarria, brought his male pet Dustin Helling along.
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COPENHAGEN FASHION FESTIVAL EVENTS
FASHION TALKS Working in Fashion Friday 15.00-16.00 Nytorv Copenhagen K FASHION EVENTS, STYLING & COMPETITIONS AT ILLUM Friday – Saturday, 10.00-20.00 Illum Østergade 52 Copenhagen K
CLOTHES MAKE THE MAN Exhibition Friday 19.30 Koncert Kirken Blågårdsplads 6A Copenhagen N FASHION AFTER DARK AT NORR Shopping Event Friday 18.00-20.00 NORR Pilestræde 36 Copenhagen K
LIVE MODEL SHOWING WOLFORD A/W Fashion Show Friday 16.00-18.00 Wolford Østergade 61 Copenhagen K TRENDS, STYLING AND CASTING Friday 15.00-18.00 Magasin Kongens Nytorv 13
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK ON SCHEDULE
EVENTS
EVENTS
By invitation only
BUSINESS LOUNGE
BRIDGING THE GAP
11.00 Jean // Phillip
City Hall, Copenhagen V
BETWEEN FASHION AND
13.00 Revolver Copenhagen Int.
Friday: 10-17
ONLINE SHOPPERS
Fashion Trade Fair Visit
15.00 Designers’ Nest
OFF SCHEDULE By invitation only 12.00 T.A.C. 14.00 Nicholas Nybro 17.00 Mardou & Dean 19.00 Ellen Pedersen 20.00 Anna von Aabling
T R A D E FA I R S
CIFF
Bella Center Center Boulevard 5 Copenhagen S
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Rainmaking Loft, Danneskiold CIFF SHOWROOMS
Samsøes Allé 41, Copenhagen K
LINGERI FASHION SHOW
Friday 17.00-21.00
CIFF Showrooms B5 2nd Floor, Center Boulevard 5, Copenhagen S
UNFAIR FASHION LAUNCH
Friday 11.00-11.30
& SLOW FASHION SHOW KPH Volume, Enghavevej 80C,
ECOUTURE SHOWROOM
Copenhagen SV
EVENT
Friday 20.00-02.30
Læderstræde 5, Copenhagen K Friday 14.00-18.30
CIFF RAVEN
Revolver Fishmarket District
Revolver Meatpacking District
Forum Copenhagen Julius Thomsens Plads 1 Frederiksberg C
Lokomotivværkstedet Otto Busses Vej 5A Copenhagen SV
Øksnehallen Halmtorvet 11 Copenhagen V
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BACKSTAGE 1
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1 — BRUUNS BAZAAR 2 — BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN 3 — BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN
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