Copenhagen Fashion Week The Daily AW15 Day 1

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

THE DA ILY Autumn / Winter 2015

COOL COUTURE

MARK KENLY DOMINO TAN

SILENT SCREAM

ASGER JUEL LARSEN

ORGANIC VOLUMES

HENRIK VIBSKOV

ROCK’N’DANDY

SAND

Day 1

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

Day 1 Autumn / Winter 2015

January 29

BRING THE WORLD TO COPENHAGEN ELSEBETH MOURITZEN

After all the recent hoopla about differing fair dates and conflicting schedules, there is finally a consensus on uniting all the good efforts.

Our aim is to further cement Copenhagen as the fashion capital of Scandinavia.

Editor-in-Chief

All the more important now that Copenhagen Fashion Week finally, after ten years, has caught the attention of Style.com as a major player, and joins the ranks of the fashion weeks they regularly cover with professional reviews of selected shows. This is a significant stamp of approval.

Welcome to the brand-new publication of Copenhagen Fashion Week: The Daily!

We are the official newspaper for everyone in the business to enjoy, and we will give you your daily dose of news, views, fun, and fashion during these hectic days of buying and selling, watching and waiting. And if you are not in the business, this is your peekhole into the exciting world of fashion…

And sad as it is, the closing of Bread & Butter in Berlin could prove a good chance for the fairs of our city to reinforce their position. Now is the time to stand together and support each other so we all get stronger. In the words of our Minister of Education and Science, Sofie Carsten Nielsen, when she unofficially inaugurated fashion week at the Kopenhagen Fur event a day early, “bring the world to Copenhagen.”

Copenhagen Fashion Week is our biggest collaborative fashion project, so it demands joint efforts all the way round. Recent figures show that exports of Danish fashion to other European countries increased by 8.7 percent in 2014. CFW should be seen as the most important platform for this effort, through which we all focus our energy to continuously attract good buyers and press.

A lot of initiatives are taken each time to promote fashion week as a symbol of the Danish tradition of democracy – including the paper you are reading at this moment. So it’s worrisome when too many designers and fashion brands withdraw from the runways and fairs to their showrooms, becoming visible to only those in the know.

Instead, we should seize the moment, support each other and proudly show our talents, now that the world is coming to Denmark.

Check out the show schedule at C O P E N H A G E N FA S H I O N W E E K . C O M & download our free app. For info on public events, go to C O P E N H A G E N FA S H I O N F E S T I VA L . C O M

CONTRIBUTORS

PUBLISHER: Copenhagen Fashion Week

GRAPHIC DESIGNER: Liv Caroline Hotvedt Laursen

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: Elsebeth Mouritzen

SUB-EDITOR: Magnus Jorem

PROJECT MANAGER: Ottilie Landmark

EXECUTIVE EDITOR: Anne Christine Persson

ART DIRECTOR: Marie Brodersen

copenhagenfashionweek.com

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WRITERS: Moussa Mchangama, Lotte Freddie, Sille Henning, Charlotte Antschukov Kjær, Frederik Højgaard COVER PHOTO: Thomas Degner PHOTOGRAPHERS: Thomas Degner, Helena Lundquist, Victor Jones. All runway photos provided by Copenhagen Fashion Week

SALES: Sophie Noreng DISTRIBUTION: Julie Steenstrup PRINT: Berlingske Avistryk

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COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

Day 1 Autumn / Winter 2015

January 29

DESIGNER JEWELLERY ROYALLY DAZZLED Danish Fashion Institute and Goldmind Communication are taking designer jewellery to new heights at their bi-annual event on Friday, transforming the H.C.Andersen Hall by Tivoli into a showroom. Not only because they are opening up to Swedish brands and thus becoming a platform for Scandinavian design, but also because Crown Princess Mary will grace the opening with her presence.

The official royal visit means a lot for the international promotion of fashion-oriented jewelers, including the likes of Georg Jensen, Ole Lynggaard Copenhagen, Pandora, Shamballa Jewels, Maria Black Jewellery, Orit Elhanati, and Marlene Juhl Jørgensen.

This year The Jewellery Room also embraces sustainability with Kinraden, and expands further by welcoming the Swedish brands Ebba Brahe Jewellery and Sophie by Sophie to join the successful one-day event.

STYLE.COM FEATURES COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK Ten years of tireless work promoting Copenhagen as an international fashion capital is again paying off for Danish Fashion Institute’s CEO Eva Kruse and CFW’s Development Director Anne Christine Persson. The world’s leading fashion site, Style.com, has just decided to include Copenhagen Fashion Week permanently in its coverage of international fashion weeks.

“It has been a primary internal benchmark since we started in 2005 that Copenhagen some day would be on Style.com and that the most important brands would be reviewed professionally by journalists on the same level as the shows in New York, London, Milan and Paris. We can’t stop smiling,” says Eva Kruse.

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK EXPANDS WITH ANOTHER SHOW VENUE

“It’s one of the greatest acknowledgements of Danish fashion in a long time,” adds Anne Christine Persson.

Style.com will feature Copenhagen Fashion Week with street fashion, reviews and runway photos. Danish-born journalist Susanne Madsen, who lives in London and writes for Dazed & Confused and Wall Street Journal, will cover shows selected by Style.com.

The DRK TV channel devotes most of the airtime this week to fashion, with live daily reports from the runways plus interviews with and profiles of Danish designers – hosted by Mr. Fashion TV himself, Chris Pedersen.

The current updates are supplemented with documentaries on Kate Moss, Carine Roitfeld and Christian Louboutin, in addition to iconic fashion-infused movies like Breakfast at Tiffany’s and Coco Before Chanel.

FASHION FESTIVAL AT DESIGN SOCIETY The open-to-public alter ego of fashion week, Copenhagen Fashion Festival, has moved its epicentre to Design Society in central Copenhagen, transforming the entire ground floor into a space for fashion activities.

For the first time, Copenhagen Fashion Week will have two official show venues this season.

Both venues are historic buildings in the heart of Copenhagen.

All the events are free and include a Fashion Cinema showing selected documentaries, two fashion exhibitions, a talk with designer Mads Nørgaard and researcher Else Skjold on mens’ shopping habits, a debate about blogging and making it in the fashion industry – and much more.

True to tradition, Copenhagen City Hall serves as the primary official show venue, but this season, The Old Stock Exchange will host shows by Ivan Grundahl and VIA, among others. Shows at City Hall include Barbara í Gongini and Fashion Hong Kong.

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FASHION ON THE SMALL SCREEN

Stop by from 10-18:00 from January 28 to February 1 for these activities and a cup of coffee from the café.

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COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

Day 1 Autumn / Winter 2015

January 29

FURRY TALENT The newly rebuilt HQ of the Confederation of Danish Industry provided an appropriate backdrop for Kopenhagen Fur’s show Imagine Talents 2015, underlining the strength of the exclusive fur auction company as one of Denmark’s most significant exporters of high-quality products. The Tuesday night show featured the work of 21 selected design students from around the globe.

Besides celebrities and fashion professionals, several prominent politicans took a look at the fruitful collaboration between Kopenhagen Fur and seven design schools, which in the words of the keynote speaker, Minister of Education and Science Sofie Carsten Nielsen, “is much needed to create creativity and thus make the world much less boring – and to create jobs”.

The event was the culmination of a year’s work with students and teachers from the selected schools, exposing them to techniques that make fur a much more useful material when incorporated in current and innovative fashion design.

To share this new thinking to the public, Kopenhagen Fur exhibits the 21 styles at the entrance hall of The National Museum until February 1 right next to the museum’s extensive special fur exhibition.

JUMP ON THE PRESS BUS

FREYA DALSJØ MEETS BUKKEHAVE

The Copenhagen Fashion Week press bus takes press from show to show, easily and comfortably. To access the press bus, exchange a business card for a press bus pass the first time you get on. The press bus covers all shows in the show schedule as well as the two trade fairs CIFF and Revolver.

Danish designer and Dansk Design Talent 2014-nominee Freya Dalsjø continues her collaboration with Danish jewellery artist Christine Bukkehave. For the second time, Dalsjø Bukkehave presents its jewellery pieces at Dalsjø’s show this Copenhagen Fashion Week.

Bukkehave is known for her organic and abstract forms. The materials in this collection include a mix of gold, silver, oxidized silver, pool-blue rubber tube, and a green sapphire.

In the morning, the press bus first departs from City Hall 30 minutes prior to the first show of the day.

The team of The Daily looks forward to seeing what they have created this season.

BESTSELLER GATHERS ITS BRANDS IN TAP1

THE COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK AND -FESTIVAL APP

Danish fashion company Bestseller is bringing together 14 of its brands in the former Carlsberg bottling hall Tap1, opening a nearly 5,000-m2-large fashion fair called Bestseller United Cph. Visitors can experience the Bestseller universe through its latest collections and trends for the coming season. While united in an overall expression of the Bestseller company, the 14 brands will display their own distinct visual identities and design DNA at the stands.

Stay updated on Copenhagen Fashion Week – and the open-to-public Copenhagen Fashion Festival – this January 28 to February 1.

From industry activities such as trade fairs and fashion shows to festival events taking place in the streets and shops of Copenhagen that are open to all, the app covers it all.

The 14 brands are Adpt, First and I, Jack & Jones, Jaqueline de Young, Object, Only, Only Play, Only & Sons, Noisy May, Pieces, Selected Femme/Homme, Vero Moda, Vila, and Y.A.S. Provided by FashionForum.dk

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With instant service notifications, you’ll be informed about the latest changes, such as if a show is delayed or an event is moved or cancelled.

The app also lets you see all the runway photos as soon as they are published, and gives you insider tips on must-visit restaurants, cafés, and bars in Copenhagen.

Developed by Pread.ly

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FC St. Pauli Ă— hummel Limited edition Available from May 2015

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

Day 1 Autumn / Winter 2015

January 29

BREAKING THROUGH Designer Nikoline Liv Andersen, whose artistic creations are built up by sampling fantastic fabrics and materials like feathers, drinking straws, metal nails, wool, fur and lace, is currently the centre of attention at Maison du Danemark on the Champs-Elysées in Paris.

The exhibition of her unique costumes and artwork, which runs till late March, coincides with all the important fashion events in the French capital, from haute couture this week to ready-to-wear in early March, and all the commercial fairs in between.

At the opening last Friday, Andersen was honoured by the presence of not only the Danish ambassador to France, Mrs. Anne Dorte Riggelsen, but also representatives of Saint Laurent, Lanvin, and Louis Vuitton.

Most important, perhaps, was her impromptu conversation with Mr. Stephane Wargnier, president of Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, the French fashion federation, to whom she expressed her interest in doing high fashion. The talent is certainly there.

STREET STYLE IN THE IMAGE BANK As a new feature this season, our online image bank at copenhagenfashionweek.com will include great street style snapshots by the talented photographer Victor Jones (quodcouture.com). Runway show photos and videos can also be downloaded in high resolution for print and online publication shortly after each show. All photos in the image bank are for press use only. Register for the image bank at copenhagenfashionweek.com

THE PLACE TO GET WORKING

SATISFACTION WITH UNIFIED FASHION WEEK

Business Lounge is a fully facilitated area inside City Hall open to all professionals – journalists, buyers, and other industry people.

At Business Lounge, you’ll find a press area where you can write and conduct interviews in relaxed surroundings. Perfect for meetings, working, lounging, and mingling. In addition to the press area, there will be a lounge area with charging stations for computers, press kits on USB-sticks, newspapers, magazines, and free food and beverages. The area also contains a Toni&Guy hair salon where you can book an appointment for hair styling.

The fashion- and textile industry was pleased when CIFF decided to change its dates for AW15 back in October. CIFF had previously announced that, due to a long-term strategy, it would carry out the fair in early February instead of the end of January. But despite this, and to the benefit of Copenhagen as a fashion capital, CIFF eventually chose to focus on optimizing Copenhagen Fashion Week and unifying the industry.

CIFF still believes Copenhagen Fashion Week should be moved so as not to coincide with the weekend in order to increase competitiveness with other top European fashion weeks. The next dates are: August 5-7, 2015, and February 3-5, 2016.

To gain access, please contact Christina Iskov at ci@danishfashioninstitute.dk

Provided by FashionForum.dk

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Autumn Winter 2015

Day 1 Autumn / Winter 2015

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

January 29

STREET STYLE Photographer Victor Jones captures the strongest looks from off the runways 1

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1 — MADS EMIL GROVE MØLLER 2 — BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN FLORALS 3 — MODELS AT ASGER JUEL LARSEN

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Day 1 Autumn / Winter 2015

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

January 29

NEWCOMER REBORN FONNESBECH Time: 12.00 Place: City Hall Words: Sille Henning Yesterday, it was newcomer label Fonnesbech that held the official opening show of this season’s Copenhagen Fashion Week. The Fonnesbech name, however, is nothing new in the fashion world. From the mid-19th century to the 1960s, Fonnesbech was synonymous with an exclusive department store with elegant women’s fashion at the finest location in central Copenhagen.

Today, the sixth generation of the Fonnesbech family, Celina Fonnesbech, is in charge of the business side of the reinvention of Fonnesbech as a fashion label, with Mette Julie Bundgaard-Nielsen serving as its designer. The choice of the label as opener is no coincidence, since sustainability is a main focus, just like it is for Copenhagen Fashion Week. Besides employing organic materials, Fonnesbech’s clothing items tend to have more than one function, like a coat transforming into a jacket.

The inspiration for the new collection was found in the time of transformation in the post-World War I era, sporting functionalist womenswear like utility-inspired jackets with storm flaps, patch pockets that button-close, and drawstring pants.

A strong point was the more tailored part of the collection, including the opening look – a dark navy suit under a matching long coat, with a long feminine slit in the back – and the simple, feminine shift dresses belted in the waists. There was also a beautiful camel shawl with navy pipings mixed with a navy skirt, and flattering silk dresses with elongated lengths and feminine draping in the back. The colour palette was mostly muted, with navy, grey, dusty blue and green, broken by entire looks in stronger hues like burgundy and coral.

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Explore the Energy of Creation

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Day 1 Autumn / Winter 2015

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

January 29

SILENT SCREAM ASGER JUEL LARSEN Time: 14.00 Place: Hotel d’Angleterre Words: Moussa Mchangama

”This is less scream and more to the bone, but with just the same boldness and captivating brutality that Asger is known for,” the press text for the Asger Juel Larsen show read. That may be true, but only partially. Through the seasons, the eclectic menswear designer has created a dystopic universe where hell (literally) freezes over and unleashes neo(n)-goths, punks, and psychedelic nightmares upon mankind – last season to the deafening tunes of live punk music.

Sure, it was more subdued than last season’s neon perversion (the grand luxuriousness of Hotel d’Angleterre helped underline that), but if there’s one designer who’ll never be boring, it’s Asger Juel Larsen. The AW15 collection is a muted scream, a sneaking feeling of something disturbing, without the capability to pinpoint what, exactly.

When the dust settles after the war, what’s left? You have to look at it up close to really see the subtle army prints utilised on a grand variety of styles, to see the bits of blue dyed strands of hair on a deep red/pinkish fur coat, to realize that the red-and-black 3D-print consisted of skulls and bones. The outerwear is once again one of Larsen’s biggest assets, from the amazingly cool fake furs to the clean perfectionism of dusty, green trench coats – the craftsmanship, my god! Oh, and that long, shiny, gold leather coat (hand-dyed especially for Larsen in Italy) combined with the über-sleek hair? Totally Gary Oldman in The Fifth Element. Genius.

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COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

Day 1 Autumn / Winter 2015

January 29

NICKLAS SKOVGAARD

FROM BLOG TO CATWALK

Time: 13.00 Place: The Stock Exchange Words: Lotte Freddie

Five years ago he sat on the front row at every show.

He was photographed everywhere during Copenhagen Fashion Week because of his arrestingly creative outfits. The New York Times asked his opinion, as did all other sorts of fashion experts.

At 15 years old, Nicklas Skovgaard, from the tiny island of Thurø, was writing his quite critical blog, My Clothing Blog, with 2,000–3,000 followers.

Since then, he has worked more than half a year with a tailor and for three months as a pupil with Freya Dalsjø and now, at age 20, he presented his dream – his first collection, developed in collaboration with Morten Kjær Thomsen. The autodidact Nicklas’s originally daring dressing attitude has been downgraded to a collection entirely held in grey. Flannel, jersey, cotton, and knit made into straight trousers and simple dresses, some straight, some wrapped with snap fasteners that perhaps were actually intended to pull the fabric?

Other coats, jackets, and dresses were adorned with striped blue or red fox, used as sleeves, as one shoulder, down one front half, or as the back of a dress.

Five years ago I did a TV interview with Nicklas where he asked my opinion on how to succeed as a designer. Produce interesting design to catch people’s attention, and most importantly, learn your craft thoroughly. I wish he had followed my advice.

NORDIC, NATURALLY

MAIKEL TAWADROS Time: 15.00 Place: City Hall Words: Elsebeth Mouritzen

Maikel Tawadros strikes a balance between soft natural shapes and sharper architectural lines, emphasized by the diverse choice of materials.

From the sheerest silks and soft chunky knits to structured tweeds and textured leather, his collection is a winter tale reflecting a casual Nordic mood in somber colours, accentuated by lush long-haired fur and shiny leggings resembling black licorice band, adding a cutting edge to all the naturalness.

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CIFF Sleek Stand E 045 www.charlottesparre.com

Day 1 Autumn / Winter 2015

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

January 29

PURE PARIS MARK KENLY DOMINO TAN Time: 16.00 Place: The Royal Danish Theatre Words: Lotte Freddie It is Copenhagen Fashion Week, where we celebrate Danish fashion. Like the collections from Mark Kenly Domino Tan. A Danish designer, but his contribution to the Danish fashion scene is more aptly described as coming off the Parisian catwalks. The haute couture ones.

Danish fashion is often described as “democratic fashion.” Useful, easy, wearable, reasonably priced. Mark Tan’s work does not belong in this category. Certainly wearable though, and decidedly extremely flattering, Mark Tan’s clothes belong more in the couture department. Thus the Royal Danish Theatre’s backstage opportunely acted as background for his collection of sublime workmanship, wondrous tailoring, and pure beauty.

Tan was inspired in Milan by the architect Pierre Paulin’s soft organic shapes, very much like the artist Arp’s sensual rounded forms. They were translated into a perfect navy trouser suit with a double-deplumed jacket and Dior-style narrow-waisted half-circled princess coats or dresses with wide midilong skirts – tailored in Danish furniture materials from Kvadrat.

Colours are brown, red, black, Yves Klein blue, burgundy, brick and the lovely blue and rose pastels. Besides those Tan uses burgundy, orange and electric blue for rather fantastic seal coats and jackets in a new clever braided technique he developed in collaboration with Great Greenland.

The sixties and seventies were melted into a more mature style, ladylike but modern – Emma, my 20-year-old friend, said she wanted it all. Not surprising since Mark Tan lets wide trousers in heavy silk swing under cropped tops that dip in the front and slit open in the back. He overwhelms us with breathtaking pale rose and ice-blue crinkled taffeta dresses and long coats with silver belts circling the narrow sleeves upper arms, from where the sleeves blossom out like a flower. It is really quite wonderful.

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Day 1 Autumn / Winter 2015

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

January 29

ROCK’N’DANDY SAND Time: 19.00 Place: Bredgade – private home Words: Sille Henning

Yesterday’s Sand show was a private affair – literally. Owners Lene and Søren Sand had invited only sixty people to a small salon-inspired show in their private home in Copenhagen. And Sand does know how to throw a memorable show, with oysters and champagne in the kitchen and top model overload.

The 1970s-inspired collection had a rock‘n’roll attitude, the female models all sporting sexy, messed-up hair and heavy eye make-up in a French kind of chic. The men, meanwhile, offered a more British rock‘n’roll dandy look.

There were leather shirts, plenty of ultra-short dresses and above-the-knee skirts, mostly in lace and leather. There were also soft knits and classic coats. One of the favourites was a brown fake fur coat and the black leather skater skirts. The colour palette was muted, in nuances like black, grey and beige, but there was also a bright white tuxedo with flared pants.

The menswear silhouettes were slim, with cropped pants and tight jackets mixed with oversized knits and coats. In the context of formal wear, it was a rather daring collection, with jacquard dinner jackets, leopard-printed flannel, and suits in colours like electric blue and aubergine, something that definitely added a touch of glamour to the often-colour-neutral men’s wardrobe.

Overall, it was a great Sand collection, paying homage to brand’s well-developed DNA and with many a potential bestseller.

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COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

Day 1 Autumn / Winter 2015

January 29

REBEL REBEL MADS NØRGAARD

Mads Nørgaard has a thing for trilogies. When he added womenswear to his brand, he held shows three seasons in a row at the grey hall in Christiania. Later he showed his collection during fashion week as a short movie, also for three seasons in a row. For this season and the two preceding ones, he has chosen the art museum Charlottenborg Palace as his venue, but while the former two were short and focused, yesterday’s was quite the opposite.

Time: 17.00 Place: Charlottenborg Palace Words: Sille Henning

There must have been more than 50 models, many of whom were street cast and not in Mads Nørgaard’s clothes – except for his iconic ripped jersey shirt 101. It might sound confusing, but it wasn’t. Instead the the designer managed to create a beautiful link between fashion and the city of Copenhagen, a place he holds very dearly.

The overall mood in the collection was rebellious in a David Bowie kind of way, with many of the models in black skinny pants, leather, and Doc Martens boots. But there was also an elegant suede tunic over a pair of flared pants, brightly coloured fake furs, and an all-denim outfit.

Of course there were also many variations of his classic stripes; a favourite was the long Kansas jacket with 1986 sprayed on the back – which of course was the year he first opened his menswear shop in Copenhagen.

NØRGAARD AFTER HOURS Mads Nørgaard’s largely street-cast show gave a sprinkling of different real personalities. We asked a few of the onlookers how they are enjoying the week.

Photos: Helena Lundquist, Words: Charlotte Antschukov Kjær

BARBARA GULLSTEIN,STYLIST

JULIANE GRÜNER, MODEL

WHAT ARE YOUR FASHION WEEK ESSENTIALS? I always make sure that I have my phone and a good lip balm.

WHICH SHOW HAVE YOU BEEN LOOKING FORWARD TO THE MOST? I have really been looking forward to Mark Kenly Domino Tan’s debut show, and when I saw it this afternoon, it definitely lived up to my expectations. It was mind-blowing and had a very international feel.

WHAT IS YOUR BEST INTERNATIONAL FASHION WEEK MOMENT? That is without a doubt when I in 2011 made my debut at the fall Prada show and was signed as a worldwide exclusive.

BENTE LUNDQUIST, SCOOP MODELS HOW DO YOU PREPARE FOR COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK? From a personal perspective, I always prepare my wardrobe and make sure that I am well rested for those busy days.

WHAT IS YOUR BEST COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK MOMENT? It is not really a moment, but I love how Copenhagen’s size enables you to do show after show after show – and you feel the adrenaline pumping while you’re having a great time

HOW DO YOU PREPARE FOR COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK? Honestly, my preparation process mainly consists of finding a babysitter for my son. Luckily I have a mother who always steps in to help.

WHICH SHOW HAVE YOU BEEN FORWARD TO THE MOST? I am looking forward to all the shows, and to follow the models that I represent.

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COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

Day 1 Autumn / Winter 2015

January 29

DEATH BY TECHNOLOGY HAN KJØBENHAVN Time: 18.00 Place: Dansehallerne Words: Moussa Mchangama

Han Kjøbenhavn always creates full experiences. Last season was a poetic winter landscape, while this collection, titled Äpparat, called for a harder, industrial vision; two of the models even shot themselves in the head and ‘died’ on stage.

Jannik Wikkelsø Davidsen and Tim Hancock, founders and designers, drew inspiration from the Bauhaus movement and industrial designs of Dieter Rams and Jacob Jensen. “It’s about convenience and functionalism – clothes for everyday life, mixed with our creativity,” they said a few days before.

Enter an installation with old data machines and garments with prints of geometric shapes. Cue black, grey, and white (one of the whites the nuance of the first computers) accented only by clear blue, bright green, deep yellow – old signal colours of the machines. They play with technical materials and mix them with the softest leathers to interpret the way industrial designers combined materials. They create looks that a lot of men will wear: the most gorgeous leather jacket in various greys, a deep green trench coat, slim grey pants, an elongated, modern silhouette with no extra details. This is commercial clothing in the best sense of the word; it sells. Han’s prices are in the premium segment above high street prices (a suede jacket retails for €872, wool jackets around €400), but their immensely popular eyewear is selling at 280 doors – in the US alone, that is. In March, they open a flagship in Paris. What these guys have is the talent of combining creativity with commercialism. And that’s pretty admirable.

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Day 1 Autumn / Winter 2015

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

January 29

MADE LIKE MINK JESPER HØVRING X GREAT GREENLAND Time: 20:00 Place: The Stock Exchange Words: Lotte Freddie

”He really rocks­— of course I am going to have a seal jacket”, the Minister for Children, Gender Equality, Integration and Social Affairs, Manu Sareen said, praising Jesper Høvring after the show of the unique seal collection the designer has developed for Great Greenland.

What a good idea for Great Greenland to ask a great designer to rethink and redevelop the island’s thousand-year-old treasure and traditional livelihood. Jesper Høvring went to Greenland where he, like Mark Tan, was greatly moved by the Greenlandic seal hunters’ culture and life.

These inspired him to create a luxurious, innovative, and trendy fur collection injected with the same Jesper Høvring DNA as his couture.

The seal skins are produced in an environmentally friendly fashion and preserved with the latest tanning techniques, giving the skins a new softness. This allows for true fur fashion. Silver seal coats are cleverly matched with charcoal grey wool – as sleeves, as a front, or as the skirt to a silver seal body. The result is bang on FASHION. As are coats, in brown, blue or bleeding from silver to blue to black, cut horizontally in wide stripes – like a mink coat – or some in wavered stripes, sewn together with narrow or wide suede ribbons.

The new softness makes ruffled cuffs possible as well as really cool peplum jackets with narrow waists – very desirable in blue, sure to appeal to the girls. As are small, white, trimmed fox jackets. Fox goes very well with the seals – as trims on sleeves, shoulders or as three richly fluffy ribbons spilling across a dark seal skin coat.

Quite, quite beautiful and international it really was. Now we need the government to make campaigns and extra efforts to inform the EU and the rest of the world that Greenlandic seals are NOT a forbidden product, as many people abroad mistakenly believe. Instead, they are a natural part of daily living in the world’s largest island. And now also a covetable, practical fashion item.

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Day 1 Autumn / Winter 2015

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

January 29

A DEEP-TISSUE MASSAGE HENRIK VIBSKOV Time: 21.00 Words: Moussa Mchangama Place: Papirhallen

There’s something extremely fascinating about people who, after years and years in the industry, can keep on pulling rabbits out of their hats. With The Messy Massage Class, Vibskov presented a vision of “peculiar mind/body attitudes in the health world,” as stated in the show notes. That resulted in 400 hands gently touching twelve vocalists in fluid movements throughout the show – eerie, spectacular, hypnotizing.

The world of Vibskov is always hard to describe in 250 words. It’s vast. Numerous prints (a chequered one that faded into navy, a hand motif, and a black/white/green/brown knitted one were amazing), knits, great oversize suiting for men, a gorgeous sand-coloured trench coat, and beautifully re-constructed double-faced jersey. Volume and organic shapes are a staple, so is the use of colours – although it seemed a bit more muted than usual.

So let’s instead focus on something else: If there’s one thing this show was, it was a poetic and humorous discussion on private spheres and body, on how we touch each other (in)voluntarily. He’s working on three different theatre pieces (one of them with Björk, yay!) all premiering in early 2015 in Brussels, Copenhagen, and Oslo respectively, he’s doing major solo exhibitions in Seoul and Stockholm in 2015 and 2016, and he’s now a professor at Designskolen Kolding.

In other words, a lot has happened since back when admission to a Vibskov show was a pack of cigs. Still, there’s the same sense of creative chaos, of flighty energy, and uncompromising aethestics. Please never change.

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COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

Day 1 Autumn / Winter 2015

Having recently travelled to China to build a TV career on his white skin, Emil Thorup is still visibly annoyed that the market was flooded with better-looking Caucasians.

Scoop Model Julie Pallesen is quite disgusted, actually, by basic girls who don’t include sunblock in their morning skincare regimen.

Euroman’s Fred Andy wears suit (Dressmann), cap (Jesper Thomsen Accessories), shirt (Follow My Happy Trail SS15 Cruise Collection), jockstrap (Totally Straight Intimo-Couture).

January 29

2012 is back with a vengeance this season, as evidenced by bad-boys jumping on the neo-90s bandwagon popularized that year by singer Grimes.

DOMESTIC PURSUITS The Tommy Hilfiger team kicked off fashion week with a laid-back reception in their homelike flagship store in the centre of town.

Photos: Helena Lundquist, Words: Magnus Jorem YouHeShe.com’s Lulu Henckel’s fur is part of her outfit and raise the room temp as you might, she will not take it off.

Elle’s Pernille Rosenkilde believes that superhero outfits are the highest form of fashion.

The Danni Minogue of the Brasch-Nielsen family, race-blogger Frederikke.

Cheerful reception-face Mads Vangaard went for the look and hairstyle of his favorite doll in Mattel’s Hard Rock Café Barbie series.

Just like voice legend Barbara Streisand only goes by STREISAND these days, publishing legend Malene Malling prefers to be addressed simply as MALLING.

This woman almost certainly has a library card up her sleeve.

If anyone, Szhirley knows that a good-looking baby is one killer fashion accessory – surpassed only by a good-looking baby in the season’s ethnicity.

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As everyone at Helsinki Fashion Week knows, you can’t be fashion unless you look really really sad.

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PRESENTING AUTUMN 15 AT TAP1 - NY CARLSBERGVEJ 91, 1799 KØBENHAVN V

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

Day 1 Autumn / Winter 2015

January 29

PRECIOUS PELTS Fans of fur innovations in fashion design gathered for the Jesper Høvring x Great Greenland show on Wednesday. We asked some of them about their fashion weeks and how they see fur evolving.

Photos: Helena Lundquist, Words: Charlotte Antschukov Kjær

EVA HARLOU, ARCHITECT AND TV HOSTESS WHAT IS YOUR AW15 PLAN? Due to a tight work schedule, I will only be attending the Jesper Høvring x Great Greenland show for Copenhagen Fashion Week AW15. I will be back next year though!

WHAT DO YOU HOPE TO SEE TONIGHT? I hope to see innovative and wearable design that brings sealskin back to the fashion stage.

CHRIS PEDERSEN, TV HOST WHY IS DENMARK SUCH A FRONTRUNNER WHEN IT COMES TO FUR DESIGN? In Denmark we have a long tradition with fur, and a unique know-how in the field. It enables us to understand the material and to push the boundaries of fur design.

WHAT IS THE FUTURE OF FUR? I think that the Danish fur industry’s focus on markets like Japan and China will lift fur up.

NICO GLAD GOLDEN, STYLIST WHAT IS THE HIGHLIGHT OF YOUR AW15 SO FAR? Just to meet and mingle with all the wonderful and passionate people who participate.

IBEN HJEJLE, ACTRESS

WHAT ARE YOUR PLANS FOR TONIGHT? After the Jesper Høvring x Great Greenland show I am going to the Henrik Vibskov show, then cocktails at Munthe and finally the Eurowoman/Euroman party. It is a tight schedule, but I can sleep when I am old.

WHAT ARE YOUR EXPECTATIONS FOR THE SHOW? I have already seen the collection, so now I am looking to see how it moves on the runway.

WHAT ARE YOUR OPINIONS OF THE DANISH FUR INDUSTRY? We have excellent, quality fur in Denmark, and that is because of the high standards in our mink farms. We should be proud of that.

MARK KENLY DOMINO TAN HOW WAS IT TO SHOW AT COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK? It was absolutely fantastic! I feel that we succeed in giving people a great experience, and I will definitely be back.

HOW DO YOU THINK FUR DESIGN WILL EVOLVE? The use of fur has been through a huge transformation in the last couple of years, and I think we will see more innovative ways of using fur in the future.

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LECTRA IN FASHION Expertise and leading-edge technology to develop business growth.

Designed by Marie-Anais Dumoux

From first creative spark to final product, Lectra has business expertise and powerful technology solutions to address the entire fashion and apparel product lifecycle.

www.lectrafashionblog.com @LectraFashion LectraFashionNetwork www.facebook.com/lectraofficiel

where fashion & technology meet

lectra.com

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

Day 1 Autumn / Winter 2015

January 29

SMUG LIFE A host of political power players, gangster journalists, and blogger-posing pixies were present at the reinvention of Fonnesbech as a fashion brand.

Photos: Helena Lundquist, Words: Magnus Jorem

Graphic designer Lukas stars in the upcoming third Matrix sequel, The Matrix Repulsive.

Unexpected thug life on the front row by Lennart ‘Weekendavisen’ Raaholt.

Cabinet Ministers Manu S and Mogens J charmed Wardrobe Queen Eva K.

Electric Lady Lab couldn’t resist striking a knees-together blogger pose.

HOT’N’COLD Kopenhagen Fur drew a crowd of celebs, MPs and designer colleagues for their pre-fashion week show.

Photos: Andreas B. Drugge. Words: Elsebeth Mouritzen

Designer Freya Dalsjø and her PR warmed up to their own show aptly dressed from head to toe.

copenhagenfashionweek.com

Countess Cath Danneskiold-Samsøe is back on the black carpet in style.

Horsewoman Tina Lund kept her cleavage warm inside the tux.

THE DAILY

Mads Kornerup of Shamballa Jewels prefers hide without hair.

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COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

Day 1 Autumn / Winter 2015

January 29

COPENHAGEN FASHION FESTIVAL EVENTS Events at Design Society — Open for everyone MADEMOISELLE C Copenhagen Fashion Festival Cinema with DR K Friday 19.00 THE ECHOCHIC DESIGN AWARD 2014/15 Exhibition Wednesday - Sunday 10.00-18.00 NEW NORDIC FASHION The Good Guys Exhibition Wednesday - Sunday 10.00-18.00

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK ON SCHEDULE

EVENTS

EVENTS

By invitation only

JULIE BRANDT

OPEN HOUSE at Fashion

11.00 Jean // Phillip

LUSSO, Hovedvagtsgade 8

Design Akademiet

12.00 Veronica B. Vallenes

Copenhagen C, by invitation only,

Nørregade 7C, Copenhagen C

14.00 Freya Dalsjø

Thursday 10-12

Thursday 15-19

17.00 YDE

BUSINESS LOUNGE

WOODWOOD

18.00 Bruuns Bazaar

City Hall, Rådhuspladsen 1

Grønnegade 1

19.00 Designers Remix

Copenhagen V

Copenhagen C

20.00 By Malene Birger

Wednesday - Friday 10-18

Thursday 17-20

CIFF RAVEN

Revolver Fishmarket District

Revolver Meatpacking District

Forum Copenhagen Julius Thomsens Plads 1 Frederiksberg C

Lokomotivværkstedet Otto Busses Vej 5A Copenhagen SV

Øksnehallen Halmtorvet 11 Copenhagen V

15.00 Baum und Pferdgarten

OFF SCHEDULE By invitation only 16.00 Fashion Hong Kong

T R A D E FA I R S

CIFF

Bella Center Center Boulevard 5 Copenhagen S

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Day 1 Autumn / Winter 2015

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

January 29

BACKSTAGE 1

2

3

1 — MARK KENLY DOMINO TAN 2 — FONNESBECH 3 — FONNESBECH

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