Copenhagen Fashion Week The Daily AW15 Day 2

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

THE DA ILY Autumn / Winter 2015

GREY MATTERS

BY MALENE BIRGER

TRUTH & DARE BRUUNS BAZAAR

GLIMPSE OF GOLD

YDE

Day 2

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

Day 2 Autumn / Winter 2015

January 30

YES, WE’RE OPEN! ELSEBETH MOURITZEN

chant for inclusion and tradition of democracy. Even if Copenhagen Fashion Week basically is a trade affair, as is the case in cities around the world, the initiative has aroused curiosity beyond borders, and has helped the city to further establish its reputation as hip and happening.

Editor-in-Chief

Copenhagen Fashion Festival, the open-topublic sibling of CFW, has grown so big it almost seems to offer more events than the actual fashion week. What started as a smaller action to include the end consumers and meet the public’s interest in fashion as something more than shopping has grown into an important institution in itself.

The “open fashion week”, as the Festival is often dubbed, derives from the Danish pen-

These couple of days, you really feel the capital is clad in fashion and full of life. Copenhagen’s inner city shops and venues embrace it in each their own way, from late-night shopping and styling events to pure indulgence in fun drinks and fashion confectionary, and make it vibrant and all the more interesting to discover.

The Festival programme is also brimming with great events that take fashion to a higher level than mere consumption. Museum exhibitions and pop-up cinemas showcase fashion as a cultural element together with debates and serious talks on sustainability and the passion of design.

While this is to make us all a little wiser, runway shows on big screens in public squares – and the occasional sweepstake to win tickets to attend them in person – nurture the dreams of many to be an active part of the fashion industry. This is also taken care of by bloggers sharing their experiences, and professionals from PR agencies and magazines revealing how to get a job in this coveted business.

That the Festival is not only a promotional tool to get us buying more clothes, but something that carries cultural and economic significance, is shown by the great support from politicians, both local and national. They see the democratization as a unique asset to accept fashion as something that concerns us all. Not only as a livelihood, but also for enlightenment and entertainment.

The Festival may still be the younger sibling of fashion week. But it’s one that makes CFW stand out from the rest of them out there.

Check out the show schedule at C O P E N H A G E N FA S H I O N W E E K . C O M & download our free app. For info on public events, go to C O P E N H A G E N FA S H I O N F E S T I VA L . C O M

CONTRIBUTORS

PUBLISHER: Copenhagen Fashion Week

GRAPHIC DESIGNER: Liv Caroline Hotvedt Laursen

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: Elsebeth Mouritzen

SUB-EDITOR: Magnus Jorem

PROJECT MANAGER: Ottilie Landmark

EXECUTIVE EDITOR: Anne Christine Persson

ART DIRECTOR: Marie Brodersen

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WRITERS: Moussa Mchangama, Lotte Freddie, Sille Henning, Charlotte Antschukov Kjær, Frederik Højgaard COVER PHOTO: Thomas Degner PHOTOGRAPHERS: Thomas Degner, Helena Lundquist, Victor Jones. All runway photos provided by Copenhagen Fashion Week

SALES: Sophie Noreng DISTRIBUTION: Julie Steenstrup PRINT: Berlingske Avistryk

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January 30

MUSEUM MIRRORS FASHION AND LIFE Expectations are high for the upcoming exhibition Danish Fashion Now at Brandts in the town of Odense, partly because it is co-curated by insightful fashion journalist and TVhost Chris Pedersen.

A museum for art and visual culture loca-ted in a former 19th century weaving mill, Brandts is the perfect setting for lending a voice to the fashion world’s many voices. Designers, celebrities and style-makers will show that fashion it not just about beautifying our surroundings – that it also acts as a mirror of the state of the world socially, economically and culturally.

The exhibition will feature prominent Danish designers in different contexts, but one of the main attractions is a special section with twelve dresses from the wardrobe of Crown Princess Mary. It will be first time ever that they are put on display.

Danish Fashion Now opens March 27.

Photo: Steen Evald

SENSUAL SIMPLICITY

REBEKKA BAY LEAVES GAP

Danish jewellery brand Pilgrim could not have chosen a better campaign model than natural beauty Mathilde Goehler, who adds a dose of sensuality to their spring collection, launching right now.

Rebekka Bay, executive vice president and creative director of American clothing retailer Gap, has left the company. According to Businessoffashion.com, she will not be replaced and the position she held will be eliminated.

Back to their iconic designs, they go for toned-down minimalism and simple bohemian romanticism, both with a slight edge that reflects the untamed Nordic landscape, which the Pilgrim designers return to again and again.

The Danish-born, New York-residing designer came to the company two and half years ago after a position as creative director at Bruuns Bazaar in Copenhagen, and prior to that, as creative director at COS in London since the launch of the brand in 2006.

The simple, individual pieces all have a strong reference to organic plants, colourful genuine flowers, natural wood, marble and stone, to be worn with casual Nordic ease.

Rebekka Bay could not be reached for comment at time of press.

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK TV

NEW BACKING FOR NOA NOA

The whole city gets a view of fashion this week as the shows of Copenhagen Fashion Week are filmed, edited live, and broadcast to screens on two of the most central locations in Copenhagen at The City Hall and Højbro Plads. Passersby get a glimpse of upcoming trends from the runways as well as red carpetand backstage reports.

After some years of financial turbulence following the optimistic acquisition in 2007 of Noa Noa for 161 million Euros, the equity fund Axcel has finally found new owners for the Danish womenswear brand.

Watch the shows and interviews online at copenhagenfashionweek.com

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The value of the investment has decreased dramatically since 2009, and at one point during the search for new owners, Axcel was willing to give it all away. Instead, a small private group of investors, headed by Christian Riisberg and Gustaf Öhrn, has taken over the company for a sum yet to be disclosed.

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COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

Day 2 Autumn / Winter 2015

January 30

PRINT QUEEN COMES HOME After four years away from Copenhagen Fashion Week, veteran designer and businesswoman Charlotte Sparre returns to CIFF, and doesn’t just leave it at that. She arrives from a whirlwind tour to the fairs in Berlin and Paris last week, full of optimism.

“In Denmark, I am primarily known for prints and scarves, and many see me only as doing that, but I also design clothes. It has been good to be out in the world and see that other designers like Anna Sui and Miu Miu also profile themselves with prints, and it gives a lot of confidence to continue the vision for my brand,” says Charlotte Sparre.

She operates with 120 different prints and 80 styles, and as a courtesy to her clients, she offers the possibility of tailormaking their own collections by choosing prints and styles that suit their customers and local culture, giving them thousands of options. Taste, as she points out, differs from market to market.

Photo: Rocio Pastor Eugenio

SOULLAND TAKES BRITS BY SURPRISE Silas Adler and his team at Soulland took the plunge at the London Collections last weekend for the label’s first international show – though not an ordinary one.

The Danish brand surprised the almost 500 attendees with a reverse experience. Instead of a formal catwalk show, the setting consisted of small stations with models flown in from Copenhagen, standing still in front of a backdrop of green screens in their individual outfits, forcing the viewers and not the models to move around.

The audience – including representatives from The New York Times, Harpers’ Bazaar, I:D Magazine, and buyers from Mr. Porter, Matches and Isetan – liked the idea of a different take on modern presentation of new collections, which incorporated smartphone

Whether it is the classic styles or the tailormade ones customers choose, Sparre is proud to see her scarves and clothes on celebrities like Oh Land, Aura, Pixie Geldof, Daisy Lowe, and Cara Delevigne.

apps to allow the viewers to add small movie clips and graphic elements on both backdrops and clothes.

Photo: Anja Poulsen.

British Fashion Council, buyers and press responded well to the interaction, and CEO of Soulland Jacob Kampp Berliner is very satisfied with the outcome of the British conquest.

They already have a good rapport with the British market, and the presentation was used to emphazise the brand as accessible, democratic and dynamic.

After London, the Soulland team crossed the Channel to be celebrated by lifestyle store Colette in Paris, which is hosting their exclusive collaboration, a capsule collection.

Provided by FashionForum.dk

SKATEBOARD CHAMP IN MENSWEAR SPOTLIGHT

STINE GOYA BRANCHES OUT Designer Stine Goya is absent from the show schedule this season, but remains very visible to her customers. Last week, she opened her second Danish flagship store at Volden in downtown Aarhus, just in time for the launch of her colourful and poetic SS15 collection.

World-renowned skateboarder and X-Games gold medallist Rune Glifberg has returned to Copenhagen after two decades abroad. Besides giving back to the city by developing skateparks and sharing his experiences, he also lends his urban cool to the new SS15 campaign from Danish menswear brand Matinique.

“The largest city in mainland Denmark, Aarhus is a center of art and other creative forces, and I would like to be part of that,” says Goya.

Sporting his own board and sneakers, the photos reflect Glifberg’s natural ease in wearing everything from retro-inspired shirts to sharp suits and blazers.

Matinique is sold in 12 countries through 550 doors, and today DK Company, which acquired this and several other fashion brands from IC Companys last year, will open a flagship store in downtown Copenhagen that reflects the whole universe surrounding the brand, including Rune Glifberg.

Photo: Jonas Bie

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January 30

SHAMBALLA GIVES BACK When Shamballa Jewels exhibits at The Jewellery Room today, the company continues on its path of global expansion, making a strong case for Danish Design in the fine jewellery segment.

Brothers Mads and Mikkel Kornerup remember the early days of the new millennium, when their young company was standing on the shoulders of big domestic and international brands. Now they want to give back at The Jewellery Room by creating momentum for upcoming Danish goldsmiths and jewellery designers, inviting them to join power players like Georg Jensen, Ole Lynggaard, and Shamballa at the same venue.

this, they have opened two new stores, one in Zürich and one in Amsterdam, to complement the flagship store in Copenhagen.

The foundation of the global success is Mads Kornerup’s clever invention of the male bracelet in 2001 based on Eastern prayer beads, and since then he has continously developed the exclusive jewellery range, opening the eyes of men to even wear white diamonds, once regarded as a strictly female accessory.

Shamballa Jewels has been a trendsetter in fine jewellery for everyday-wear, and conquered the world with its casual yet refined style Danish aesthetic. After using Baselworld Watches and Jewellery Fair to launch new collections, they have expanded retail presence in over 31 countries, in the last year adding Russia, Doha, Saudi Arabia and Hong Kong to their global footprint. In addition to

ASIAN PERSUASION Three young Hong Kong-based designers tested the Danish market yesterday in a promotion push for themselves and The Hong Kong Trade Development Council, which has been dedicated to furthering careers and business for local companies since 1966.

Small and medium-sized enterprises are the back-bone of Hong Kong’s economy, and by enhancing the competitiveness of local design talents, HKTDC focuses on helping to sustain the city’s long-term economic growth.

Spearheading this Copenhagen conquest were elegant Doris Kath Chan, streetsmart KOYO Williams, and creative Seth Yeung, who will also display their collections in a pop-up showroom at Hotel Skt. Petri today.

PERMANENT FASHION- AND TEXTILE EXHIBITION IN COPENHAGEN For the first time in its history, Denmark’s largest museum for design – Designmuseum Denmark – is housing a permanent exhibition on fashion and textiles. According to Kirsten Toftegaard, the exhibition has been a long time in the making.

“We have known for many years that there was a large audience for the collection. However, there are many reasons why our collection has not been showcased before. Even though women in particular appreciate fashion and textiles, we do not really have a tradition for this sort of exhibition in Denmark. As a result, it has been a challenge to raise money for the project,” she tells FashionForum.

ROSEMUNDE EXPANDS WITH SHOE COLLECTION The Danish lifestyle brand Rosemunde expands to unexplored territory this season with a shoe collection that targets a younger customer segment. The expansion is a result of customer demand, stable figures, and increased exports.

To hit its segment, the shoe collection is characterized by a more youthful look, while remaining true to Rosemunde’s visual DNA. It will be sold in Rosemunde’s retail stores as well as separate shoe stores, and will be a permanent part of Rosemunde’s product portfolio.

In addition to the new shoe collection, Rosemunde will also launch a smaller collection of bags later this year.

The museum is open Sundays to Tuesdays from 11 AM to 5 PM, and Wednesdays from 11 AM to 9 PM.

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STREET STYLE Photographer Victor Jones captures the strongest looks from off the runways.

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KOPENHAGEN FUR COAT OUTSIDE PAPIRHALLEN PERNILLE TEISBÆK OUTSIDE FREYA DALSJØ NADILE QUENUM MARK KENLY DOMINO TAN FUR

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Day 2 Autumn / Winter 2015

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January 30

MOROCCAN LOVE AFFAIR BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN Time: 15.00 Place: Papirhallen Words: Sille Henning

It was a great pleasure to watch yesterday’s Baum und Pferdgarten show. The Danish label, known for its mix of quirkiness and wearability, showed a more grown-up version of itself. There were fewer colours and prints than usual, and the ones that did appear in the collection were subtle, like the black and white chiffon, the burgundy stripe, and the navy pinstripe.

This season, the focus was on materials and textures. The inspiration was found in North African culture and Saint Laurent’s Marrakesh – think cobalt blue, handcrafted tiles, and woven carpets. Those carpet patterns in particular with their unfinished edges played a huge role in the collection. Like a dark blue coat where the raw edges were used to create a pattern, or the black and white bouclé. There was also a full look in blue suede and a suede ruffle skirt with a carpet-patterned jacket.

Another piece of news was denim playing a bigger role than previously. This season, dark skinny jeans function as leggings under skirts and dresses. In general there was lots of layering, but in a feminine and elegant way. Together with the more three-dimensional lace, that conjured the playful look that Baum und Pferdgarten has become known for.

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COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

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THE VIEW A bunch of really important females answered our incisive questions about fashion, life, and great expectations at this seaon’s quirky Baum und Pferdgarten show.

Photos: Helena Lundquist, Words: Charlotte Antschukov Kjær

CATHERINE DANNESKIOLD SAMSØ, ACTIVIST / PROFESSIONAL COUNTESS / EDITOR AT DANISH EMERGENCY MANAGEMENT AGENCY

SASKIA VAN LANGEVELDE, FASHION AND STYLE DIRECTOR AT GLAMOUR MAGAZINE, THE NETHERLANDS WHAT ARE YOUR EXPECTATIONS FOR THE SHOW? I hope to see something exciting, spectacular, and wearable.

BESIDES THE CLOTHES, WHAT IS THE MOST IMPORTANT ELEMENT IN A SHOW? It is all about the execution, and how the different show elements complement the clothes and lift them to the next level.

ARE YOU STAYING IN COPENHAGEN AFTER THE SHOW? Yes, I am going to both CIFF and Revolver and will stay in Copenhagen until Sunday.

HOW DO YOU THINK THE DANISH FASHION INDUSTRY HAS EVOLVED OVER THE LAST FEW SEASONS? There has been a fantastic development, because we have a new generation of excellent Danish designers who understand how to mix innovative and commercial design.

MALENE MALLING, PUBLISHING MAVEN WHAT MAKES DANISH FASHION DESIGN SO SPECIAL? Danish designers master the art of creating cool and wearable clothing.

SOPHIE WARBURTON, STYLIST AND SHOPPING EDITOR FOR THE DAILY TELEGRAPH

HOW DO YOU THINK THE DANISH FASHION INDUSTRY HAS EVOLVED OVER THE LAST FEW SEASONS? It is nice to see a new, strong generation of Danish designers, who approach fashion from new and different perspectives.

HOW DOES DANISH DESIGN DIFFERENT FROM INTERNATIONAL DESIGN? Danish design is a clever mix of simple pieces. Also, it is often not about trends, but about wearability.

CAMILLA OTTESEN, TV PRESENTER

WHO IS THE BEST NEW DANISH DESIGNER? Mark Kenly Domino Tan, because he is very international and different from other Danish designers.

WHAT ARE YOUR EXPECTATIONS FOR THE SHOW? I expect to see wearable designs with an edge.

WHICH SHOW OR EVENT DO YOU LOOK FORWARD TO THE MOST? I love Baum und Pferdgarten, so this show, of course.

IVONA BRUUN, SOCIALITE WHAT IS NEXT FOR YOU TODAY? After this show, I’ll move on to the next one and then the next one.

WHAT DO YOU HOPE TO SEE TODAY? I hope to see a lot of exciting new trends.

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READY TO GO FREYA DALSJØ Time: 14:00 Place: The National Museum of Denmark Words: Lotte Freddie

She has attended the best design academies – in Berlin and in Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts. In 2012, Freya Dalsjø presented her collection to much acclaim and has since received accolades en masse.

“Ready Made” was the title of a film in which the talented designer yesterday showed her visions for next autumn/winter. Not the optimal opportunity for press photographers, and the actual feel of clothes in front of you is missing. But the originality of the design was still evident. Freya Dalsjø is renowned for her personal and artful approach to materials and colours. She paints her clothes – this time in a more sombre palette of navy, camel, brass, and bottle green, plus the occasional red and light blue for pep.

Half and half could be the headline of the collection, since dresses, jackets and coats, were often divided into two colours. Like matched with pleated herringbone panels and also seen in THE DRESS – a camel/black wrap swing-dress of two thirds black one third dark camel and closed in one side with a back-strap buckle. Navy wool draped to the same kind of buckle was another must-have dress.

Freya Dalsjø’s close collaboration with Kopenhagen Fur results in unusual design. Like when her speciality, leather, is married to mink, swakara or Tibetan lamb as half a fur vest covers a leather jacket or coat. And mink and Tibetan lamb are herringbone sliced and sewn together on the bias lengthwise so that one or two skins can become one very long scarf. Inventive, useful, trendy, and desirable.

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Day 2 Autumn / Winter 2015

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January 30

VERONICA B. VALLENES Time: 12.00 Place: Hotel d’Angleterre Words: Moussa Mchangama

NOT QUITE THERE Under the title ‘Black Diamonds’, Veronica B. Vallenes offered her range of clean, basic looks in the luxurious surroundings of Hotel d’Angleterre. But the venue didn’t do her any favours; her styles are stripped of embellishment, held in monochrome brown, camel, a beautiful deep bottle green, black, and berry red. It fell a bit flat – when you do something as clean as Veronica B. Vallenes, quality and finish need to be luxurious and on point; they weren’t.

The styling didn’t help, either. Thin scarves read as too old, while way too short skirts (you could almost see the xxx) just looked tawdry and out of place. There’s romanticism in her work (styles are called “Tears On My Pillow 2”, “You Make Me Feel”) and there are really good pieces (namely the cool coats with leather lapels, a thick, grey skirt, a bottle green top with stripes). But sadly, the entirety of it all didn’t translate onto the runway.

IMPERVIOUS IMPRESSIONS JEAN//PHILLIP Time: 11.00 Place: The Stock Exchange Words: Sille Henning

Under the collection title of Bulletproof, Danish designer Jean Phillip presented an intriguing and coherent menswear collection at yesterday’s show. The title referred to the world of turmoil we live in; a world in which our clothing is there to protect us. A concept Jean Phillip successfully translated into a versatile collection.

Tailoring mixed with sporty references such as mesh shirts, drawstrings, and big scuba zippers gave the collection a feel of utility. The designer had taken a playful approach to silhouettes and construction techniques, which gave the collection a very modern expression.

As always when it comes to Jean//Phillip, black was the dominant colour, but burgundy and dark blue also made appearances. Two of the collection standouts were the digital army-printed bomber jacket with oversize sleeves and the narrow pants with a thin ruffle down the side.

The strength was in the detail, especially the seemingly necklace-inspired metal decoration on some of the shirts.

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IN RUFFLES AND GOLD YDE Time: 16.00 Place: Hotel d’Angleterre Words: Lotte Freddie

In an equality-obsessed country like Denmark, it is really quite extraordinary how many couture designers specializing in party and gala clothes actually exist – and thrive, particularly in Copenhagen.

Like Ole Yde – a darling of the jet set, society and royalty, favouring his very becoming, beautiful creations. Yesterday he proved why – both with the costly couture designs and the new, moneywise-more-accessible dresses. The collection is made in collaboration with Georg Jensen, no less, and indeed pedestals exhibiting Georg Jensen’s design icons sparkled at Hotel d’Angleterre. David Chu, CEO of the scandalously sold and now Bahrain-owned company flanked the Crown Princess Mary witnessing the latest YDE inspirations: painter Gustave Klimt and his golden mosaics. They came as golden lurex, striped or cut in large checks, matched with black or turquoise.

Black also ruled in pretty layered swinging organza or silk velour dresses, some enhanced with dancing ruffles – like a long dress swaying with a train. A sure “Mary dress”.

The same half-and-half idea came in monochrome black and white checks and pleated short or long dresses topped with Yde’s latest success,“the little mink jacket”. A stunning royal blue mink coat should achieve the same popularity.

In a season mostly addressing the more mature clientele, Ole Yde’s is a very young collection.

Extremely short. Probably, the styles also come in a longer length. Whatever the hemline, they should not be worn with the monstrously high Christian Louboutin stilettos. Only a few of the models could master them, and thus the walk was stiff and awkward, not sexy, like it is meant to be to underline beautiful, desirable clothes.

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POWER PARTY GANNI Time: 17.00 Place: Skateparken Words: Moussa Mchangama

So, here’s the thing about Ganni. A brand in the “upper contemporary market,” as they say themselves, they’ve created immense hype among bloggers and editors – they won Brand of the Year 2014 at the Danish Elle Style Awards and the show received the biggest applause I’ve experienced this season. It’s easy to see why; it’s effortless and a big commercial hit. Still, they’re not exactly revolutionizing fashion or trends, it’s not avant-garde or edgy high fashion – but that’s not the point.

For fall, Creative Director Ditte Reffstrup channelled Kim Basinger’s power dressing in 9 ½ Weeks – and also the pyjamas dressing of Katharine Hepburn. That meant billowing silk pieces (a cool red silk look on Dutch stunner Rianne Ten Haken opened the show), really great chequered outerwear that should be an instant hit among consumers (especially the coat on model Charlie Bredal), a stunning blue biker jacket over a turtleneck, and shiny lacquered pieces.

Maybe it was a little safer than the previous season? Still, if you want to understand the success of Ganni, look at the heels – black and with thin straps, they’re exactly the perfect height: they look taller than they are, but they’re not too tall for women to wear them elegantly (which, of course, is easy to say for a gay man). What Ganni taps in to is the understanding that women want to dress nicely without being too loud, that you should feel comfortable and enjoy yourself. Cue the dancing models and champagne backstage after the show.

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TRUTH & DARE BRUUNS BAZAAR Time: 18.00 Place: Papirhallen Words: Sille Henning

Last night’s Bruuns Bazaar show was the third from the hand of creative director Lene Borggaard, and it’s easy to see her direction for Bruuns Bazaar. This fall collection built upon last season’s, refining some of the key styles, like the long camisol silk dresses and the ruffled sleeves.

The silhouette in the women’s collection was long and lean, even though there was lots of layering with bubble silk dresses peeping out from under shorter skirts, or a silk shirt on top of one in lace. This season, the female turtleneck was made of silk, which suited the collection’s material mix: silk, knit, lace and suede. A favourite was the voluminous skirt in lace over neoprene with beautiful drapings.

The menswear was less safe and more daring than earlier offerings, but still very wearable and appealing. There was classic tailoring, pinstriped pants mixed with a peacoat, but also shirts with uniform references like the shoulder strap and pants cropped very short above the ankle. The turtleneck added a retro touch to the collection but without making it less modern.

In general the colour scale was muted and soft toned, with black and grey as the dominant colours mixed with dark green, peach, faded red, and of course white. It was a collection well done, and we look forward seeing the next one from Lene Borggaard’s hand.

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CIFF Sleek Stand E 045 www.charlottesparre.com

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BACK TO THE FUTURE DESIGNERS REMIX Time: 19:00 Place: Pasteursvej Words: Lotte Freddie

The seventies are hot in 2015. Also at Designers Remix, where Charlotte Eskildsen has made a very strong collection, whose dresses gave off a sensual feeling of forties film stars Joan Crawford, Gene Tierney, Hedy Lamarr. Evident in lovely cheeky peplum dresses in black satin or black or purple narrow pleats. The designer usually loves minimalism, but has grown tired of it. Now, she’s enthusiastic about fitted coats and a more distinct silhouette. “I need to see something new, not retro or hippie but something with a 70s feel, something shaped, something linear.”

Her feelings appear as A-line skirts, some buttoned down the front, and tailored coats – great in purple or camel. And in trendy short or midi-long full skirts and tops made of black neoprene in a stencilled rubber mat pattern. Temptingly delicate are sets of nude soft duvet coats or jackets with pants or skirts, and grey pinstriped long flannel corsets over slim grey dresses look new and fun. Just like wonderful “Rya” long-fringed jackets looking good over perfect men’s trousers in black or brick.

Very narrow pleats are in. Watch the Mario Fortuny pleated dress at Designmuseum Danmark.

His pleating technique was a secret, still no one knows how he made them, but his narrow pleats are presently en vogue. At Designers Remix they come in black, a gorgeous purple, in brick and in fab metalized black. The pleats, made in Hong Kong, are sewn by the Swiss luxury brand Akris’ producer, in Bucharest.

A white satin dress, padded and softly quilted in an intricate pattern, is inspired by a wedding gift to a Chinese customer. It now also comes in black and navy as a skirt and top. Really cool.

These are young and fun, intelligible clothes that appeal to all ages. Commercial but with a distinct designer edge.

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PRESENTING AUTUMN 15 AT TAP1 - NY CARLSBERGVEJ 91, 1799 KØBENHAVN V

Day 2 Autumn / Winter 2015

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

January 30

HISTORY REPEATING ITSELF

BY MALENE BIRGER Time: 20.00 Place: Pakhus 11 Words: Moussa Mchangama

There’s good news and there’s bad news. Let’s do the good first. This is Christina Exteen’s third collection for By Malene Birger since the namesake founder exited the brand. Exsteen has worked with Birger from the start, and knows the DNA of the brand better than anyone. This was the first time it felt like a really coherent collection – the first two have been a bit all over the place.

Called A Gentle Woman, the narrative was that of a sophisticated tomboyish power woman exiting a cab, a man eyeing her like he’s never seen anything like her. The history instantly places the collection in an urban context fitting for a brand of this volume; they’re on a strategic endeavour with a lot of new hirings at exec level, and they’re a global luxury brand with flagships in key cities all over the globe. They’re doing really, really well and the Danish industry should be proud them. The clothes: gorgeous coats for professional women (the floor-length grey one was gooood), super loose-fitted suiting in black or grey (one with broad lapels was extra cool), animal prints (didn’t seem new in their knitted orange/blue colourings), amazing rust and burnt ochre, good furs, and black dresses with pleated see-through backs and embellished shoulders.

The tricky thing about the collection, as already noted, was that it felt more coherent than before. On the other hand, this is a big brand with a lot of product. And so, (to the bad news), the coherence almost came back to bite itself: It felt a bit too repetitive, a bit unsurprising.

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Explore the Energy of Creation

TENNIS BRACELET 1ct White G/vs Diamonds, 18K Rose Gold

Flagship Store | Ny Ă˜stergade 7 | 1101 Copenhagen | Denmark | +45 3336 5959

WWW.SHAMBALLAJEWELS.COM

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

Day 2 Autumn / Winter 2015

January 30

TOP MODEL INVASION Internationally successful label Sand hosted an exclusive show of their new collection this season in the privacy of their home. For the occasion, they had hired some of the very hottest models of the moment.

Photos: Helena Lundquist, Words: Charlotte Antschukov Kjær

PHILIP HUANG, IMG IS THIS YOUR FIRST TIME AT COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK? No, it’s my second. I worked another Sand show a couple of seasons ago.

DO YOU HAVE ANY WORK PROJECTS BESIDES MODELLING? I recently launched my own website philiphuang.nyc, where I sell my own collections of essentials that you can travel with.

DO YOU HAVE AN ICON? I think the entrepreneur Elon Musk is a very inspiring individual, because he thinks outside the box.

BASTIAAN VAN GAALEN, REPUBLIC HOW DID YOUR CAREER START? My career truly began when an agent from Republic Men scouted me in Amsterdam.

CAROLINE BRASCH, ELITE MODELS

WILL YOU WORK OTHER SHOWS AT COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK? No, the Sand show is my only show in Copenhagen, and I’m leaving the city tomorrow.

WHICH OTHER SHOWS WILL YOU WORK AT COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK? I will work the By Malene Birger show, the Ganni show and the Designers Remix show.

HOW DOES THE REST OF YOUR EVENING LOOK LIKE? I won’t be attending any evening events tonight. Instead I will help my boyfriend at his job.

KIRSTIN LILJEGREN, SCOOP MODELS WILL YOU WORK OTHER SHOWS DURING COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK? Yes, I will work the Baum und Pferdgarten-show, the Ganni-show and the Designers Remix-show.

HOW IS COPENHAGEN FASHION DIFFERENT FROM OTHER FASHION WEEKS? Copenhagen Fashion Week is very relaxed compared to international fashion weeks.

They are often much more stressful.

BAPTISTE RADUFE, BE MODEL MANAGEMENT HOW DO YOU PREPARE FOR FASHION WEEK? Honestly, I don’t really prepare, but I always remember my phone, so I can listen to music. There is a lot of waiting in the hours before a show, and listening to music is a relaxing way to pass time.

WILL YOU ATTEND OTHER FASHION WEEKS THIS SEASON? Yes, I will work New York Fashion Week as well as Barcelona Fashion Week.

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Autumn Winter 2015

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

Day 2 Autumn / Winter 2015

Shami, Ronni, Twinkles, and Mike emanate more homosexual desperation than a cruiseship of rich gay pensioners capsizing off the coast of Somalia.

DAFI’s Cecilie Thorsmark the very instant before CFW’s A-dawg Persson swooped her into the kidnapping sack she’d been wearing as a trés de rigueur oversize statement piece.

January 30

DJ Entree, Mixmaster Jasper and MC Norgaard hit the turntables so hot last night they still all jazzed up. Look at them. No way they went home.

Platinum blonde runway warrior Conor McLain channels Sworn-Brother-of-the-Night’s-Watch with a hint of Spice Girls.

VANITY GLARE Copenhagen Fashion Week joined forces with magazines Euroman and Eurowoman for a Wednesday-night party to kick off the vanity extravaganza.

Photos: Helena Lundquist, Words: Magnus Jorem Ironflag’s Rozanna Fritz and movie director Fenar Ahmad discussed “fashion” as a “language” that “embodies” a “sartorial discourse” through a “gaze” that is “always-already” a “transcendental signifier.”

Fashion professionals Cecilie og Anne Mai are so sweet and innocent they make Taylor Swift look like a violent smeared-lipstick cokewhore.

On his quest to become the Danish Prince of Darkness, fashion writer Sebastian Machado has adopted a strict hamsters-only diet for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

Trine drags her wardrobe around everywhere and loves animals, especially when they’re looking fantastic wrapped around her body on a cold winter night.

copenhagenfashionweek.com

Intellectual fashionistos Mads Emil, Ukendt Kunstner, and Sivas are working on a secret research project at Fashion Institute of Technology with the working title “Beardscapes, Self, and the Other: Symbolic Violence of the Human Facewarmer.”

THE DAILY

CEO Teis Bruun and confidante Benjamin refuse to reveal their passion for anything involving mermaids.

Spalt PR’s John Correll wears a black-and-white handkerchief tied “just so” around his neck to signal his membership of the secretive international fanclub of Kendall Jenner.

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COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

Day 2 Autumn / Winter 2015

January 30

COPENHAGEN FASHION FESTIVAL EVENTS Events at Design Society — Open for everyone FASHION TALK & FRIDAY NIGHT BAR Get inspired by Mads Nørgaard & wardrobe expert Else Skjold Friday 17.00 THE ECHOCHIC DESIGN AWARD 2014/15 Exhibition Wednesday - Sunday 10.00-18.00 NEW NORDIC FASHION The Good Guys Exhibition Wednesday - Sunday 10.00-18.00

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK ON SCHEDULE

EVENTS

EVENTS

By invitation only

SAMSØE & SAMSØE,

MATINIQUE CONCEPT

14.00 Ivan Grundahl

REVOLVER MEATPACKING

STORE OPENING

15.00 Designers’ Nest

DISTRICT

Matinique, Christian IX’s Gade 2

16.00 Barbara i Gongini

Halmtorvet 11, Copenhagen V

Copenhagen C

Friday 16:30-18:00

Friday 17-19:00

By invitation only

SOIRÉE AVEC

CPH FINEST

10.00 Fashion Collective CPH

NATHALIE RYKIEL

Fashion Week Closing Celebration

11.00 Wolford

Palair Thott, Kongens Nytorv 4

with Le Management, CIFF, Armani,

12.00 Henrik Silvius

Copenhagen C

PopCph & Shamballa Jewel

13.00 Federico D’angelo

Friday 17-19:00

Hotel Skt. Petri

OFF SCHEDULE

17.00 Nicholas Nybro

Krystalgade 22, Copenhagen K

19.00 VIA Design

T R A D E FA I R S

CIFF

Bella Center Center Boulevard 5 Copenhagen S

copenhagenfashionweek.com

CIFF RAVEN

Revolver Fishmarket District

Revolver Meatpacking District

Forum Copenhagen Julius Thomsens Plads 1 Frederiksberg C

Lokomotivværkstedet Otto Busses Vej 5A Copenhagen SV

Øksnehallen Halmtorvet 11 Copenhagen V

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Day 2 Autumn / Winter 2015

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

January 30

BACKSTAGE 1

2

3

1 — BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN 2 — BY MALENE BIRGER 3 — BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN

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