SPRING / SUMMER 2015
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
FRIDAY AUGUST 08
ON THE FRINGE
REVIEWS
BY MALENE BIRGER JEAN // PHILLIP | ASGER JUEL LARSEN
EVENT
SPOT
MIGHT & MAGIC HAN KJOBENHAVN
WOOD WOOD Y-3 DANSK COLLECTIVE COVER PHOTO HENRIK VIBSKOV BY MATHILDE SCHMIDT
FRIDAY AUGUST 08
DANSK DAILY
INCLUSIVE, NOT EXCLUSIVE Editorial
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Elsebeth Mouritzen
With the professional part of fashion week coming to an end, and the public part still going on until tomorrow, Copenhagen is resounding with great vibes. In the words of CEO Eva Kruse of Danish Fashion Institute, the aim is to make an otherwise closed trade event accessible to the public, tailored to them. To be inclusive, not exclusive. The democratic approach also runs within the fashion trade itself by the inclusion of related industries, the obvious being fine jewelry, to show the close link between clothes and accessories sharing the same design aesthetic, and to use it as a marketing force.
Established last year as a concept to showcase our world-renowned sense of design, The Jewellery Room, a fair-within-the fair, aims to strengthen these synergies. This season, the initiative was taken to a higher level – literally speaking – with a rooftop garden catwalk show, followed by a presentation indoors at a venue formerly home to Denmark's public radio station, whose 1930s classic modernist architecture was a suitable background and a perfect example that all kinds of design are important to the Danish heritage. It is a clever move, in more ways than one. Concluding this week’s shows on a rather slim calendar, there were still plenty of high-quality clothes to complement the
efforts of the jewelers. Standing out were rising labels Mark Kenly Domino Tan, Freya Dalsjø and Asger Juel Larsen, and veterans Bruuns Bazaar, Baum und Pferdgarten and Designers Remix, together giving us every right to use the term exclusive – in the sense that spells quality. And some day, when their clothes are ready to find new owners, perhaps they will grace the hangers at the most inclusive event of Copenhagen Fashion Week, the big fashion exchange on City Hall Square, where you can swap ‘til you drop. A unique “green” initiative from Danish Fashion Institute that is set to conquer the world with swaps in London, New York, and Los Angeles in months to come.
C H E C K O U T M O R E D E TA I LS O N EV E N T S G O TO
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EDITORIAL
CONTRIBUTORS PUBLISHERS DANSK Magazine & Copenhagen Fashion Week EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Elsebeth Mouritzen CREATIVE & MANAGING EDITOR Rozanna Fritz ART DIRECTION / GRAPHIC DESIGN Marco Pedrollo, Mikkel M. Andersen · IRONFLAG SUB-EDITOR Magnus Jorem EXECUTIVE EDITOR Anne Christine Persson
GRAPHIC ASSISTANT Mads Clausen WRITERS Moussa Mchangama, Lotte Freddie, Sille Henning PHOTOGRAPHERS Mathilde Schmidt, Helena Lundquist SALES REPRESENTATIVE Jens Løkke DISTRIBUTION Julie Steenstrup & Sasia Østergaard PRINT Berlingske Avistryk
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FRIDAY AUGUST 08
DANSK DAILY
PICK OF THE DAY Editor-in-Chief Elsebeth Mouritzen loves the New Nordic collection in wood, crystal, marble and metal from Pilgrim.
NEW MOVE Malene Birger did not retire, when she stepped down earlier this year as Creative Director of the fashion brand she so successfully founded a deacade ago. She has moved on to pursue her other great interest, interior design, debuting next month at Maison & Objects in Paris with a collection that echoes her strong sense of design, quality and craftsmanship under her new brand name Birger1962. At the same time, her new book, MOVE and WORK, grants an insight into her three homes reflecting a self-proclaimed nomad, who searches around the world for inspiration. In addition, she provides an exclusive preview of her new showroom in Copenhagen, BIRGER1962, which is a creative studio dedicated to design, interior and art and will provide others with a source of inspiration on how to redecorate and rearrange their own homes and spaces.
OUTLET MALL FOR ALL AGES Ringsted Outlet just 40 km SW of Copenhagen is the first prestigious outlet mall in Denmark, and with over 1.3 million visitors last year, the success is cemented with a growth of 15 percent per year to date. The key to attracting this high number of consumers lies in a focus on strong international brands such as Hugo Boss, Diesel, G-Star, Levi’s, Superdry, and Wolford – with more to come. One of the major players, Calvin Klein Lingerie, has a pop-up store with
their famed Calvin Klein Jeans, and later this month Hunkemöller will start selling affordable luxury lingerie. Come September, the colorful patterns of the Spanish Desigual fashion brand will delight female followers. Eyes are also set on future consumers with the opening of two children outlets this year, a LEGO store and a Pomp de Lux boutique with exclusive fashion for the young ones, all Danish design.
MARGRETHE DAHL, PURCHASING MANAGER, MAGASIN What’s always in your bag for fashion week? I always bring my iPhone, make-up bag, purse and a bottle of water... I always get surprised at how much stuff I end up having in there, though. Who do you follow during fashion week on social media? I follow bloggers like pernilledelook, fashion magazines like Elle, Eurowomen, Costume, and Cover, as well as many of the brands and Copenhagen Fashion Week itself.
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NEWS
Which show have you looked forward to the most? I think most of the brands are great at setting the scene. However, Charlotte Eskildsen (Designers Remix) tends to surprise and create a special atmosphere around her shows. Which events are you attending? The week is full of shows and social activities after the shows – everything from cocktail parties hosted by brands like Marlene Birger to the Elle X Ole Yde Soiree event, to
CIFF´s social dinner at restaurant No. 2. I also won’t miss out on the Jewellery Room. What is your fashion week drink? Heaps of water during the day. And for nighttime a glass of ice cold oaky Chardonnay white wine... Which designer to watch this season? There are many - I love to see the young up-and-coming designers presenting their collection at the Designers Nest show. Besides that, Freya Dalsjø and Mark Kenly Domino Tan. What to eat during fashion week? Sushi is always a favorite. Do you have a survival tips for fashion week? Just enjoy and go with the flow – don’t plan all your week with meetings and shows. Leave time to be inspired.
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NORDIC LUXURY
WHY SHOP WHEN YOU CAN SWAP? This Saturday, City Hall Square is transformed into Fashion Exchange, a massive clothing exchange market booming with everything from vintage to high street clothing – and a luxury fashion section as well. Fashion Exchange is hosted by Copenhagen Fashion Festival, which strives to bring sustainable fashion to the citizens of Copenhagen. The concept is simple: bring your old clothes and hand them in at the entrance. Then take home anything you like – and note: there are no restrictions to the amount of clothes you can take home. The event is free – the only ticket you need is your old clothes! To learn more about the event go to www.copenhagenfashionfestival.com
With a consistent rise in awareness of fine Danish jewelry design, sparked by Copenhagen Fashion Week-initiative The Jewellery Room a few seasons ago, CPHJWS was launched in 2013 to create a special platform for trading and display of the premier jewelry and watch collections in Scandinavia. The Lokomotivværkstedet exhibition hall in Copenhagen sets the authentic and unique environment of the CPHJWS universe when the jewelry and watch fair returns on August 22-24, reflecting the beauty and innovation of jewelry and watches in one delicate show space. Brands and precious objects will share their own individual stories through vibrant surroundings and unique architecture. With respect to the greatest trends in watches and jewelry, CPHJWS collects one contemporary showcase of the leading Nordic luxury brands alongside with emerging designers and precious artisans – the one destination for sourcing inspiration and developing networks in the jewelry and watch industry. The mission is to create a united industry, where everybody is invited in order to make it a growing market for everyone.
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NEWS
2ND DAY CREATES A NEW FUTURE DAY Birger et Mikkelsen is taking a second look at its “little sister” brand 2ND DAY, which launched three years ago to give younger women a different option to dress the DAY way.
that he has turned to a new page, together with in-house designer Mette Christensen and the vision of Åsa Göransson and Frederik Blank of the renowned Swedish creative studio Blank Atelier.
Paraphrasing author and consultant Peter Drucker, whose writings contributed to the philosophical and practical foundations of the modern business corporation, founder and CEO Keld Mikkelsen finds that “the best way to predict the future is to create it.” It’s obvious in the SS15 collection
2ND DAY has always been its own individual brand under the company umbrella, but with the new design concept, it has an even more distinct and independent style code. It was, and still is, a brand to go to for young feminine denim, leather and jersey, but the approach to future renewal is
clean and pure in the materials. The brand now combines raw elegance and clean minimalism in modern constructed tailoring with sculptural inspiration in a largely monochrome palette. It is Mikkelsen’s ambition to be the first Danish contemporary label to succeed internationally, and with art-infused clean lines echoing the general perception of what Danish design is, it seems within reach.
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FRIDAY AUGUST 08
DANSK DAILY
H AN Come Summer, Come Winter KJOBENH AVN WORDS Moussa Mchangama PHOTO Copenhagen Fashion Week
They’re masters of producing great shows, always with enticing installations. Last year’s featured muscle men and guards with masks. This time around their themed called for something different, ‘Another day in July,’ which saw a black runway filled with white barren trees and black dead animals being filled with white water. It all connoted the changing weather in this mostly cold country – and it translated into a hit collection that underlined that these boys will only keep growing.
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SHOWS
The muted palette of burgundy, purple, greens, black, and white colored a classic narrow and
slim silhouette. A gorgeous lightning print was perfect on jackets, while the closing look, a burgundy neoprene bomber jacket with lightning bolts, was stellar. But in the end, it’s not about the most expensive pieces – they might tell a story, but as Han Kjøbenhavn is doing well retail-wise, that should be in focus. They focused on that by using tech fabrics that could work in a variety of climates. All the fabrics are resistant to water and tough weather, and they played with different classics,
re-interpreting them. A skintight blouse that would normally appeal to professional cyclists, for example, was paired with white trousers and gave a cool look. When you leave a Han Kjøbenhavn show, you’re always one experience richer. This time it felt truly magical, and very Danish, in a way. Han always work with their cultural heritage and when you know, you can tell. If you’re foreign, take this with you: they absolutely nail what Danish design should be all about. If you’re Danish, you probably felt at home.
AUTUMN COLLECTION 2014 BY PILGRIM
JOIN US @PILGRIMJEWELLERY / WWW.PILGRIM.DK / FIND NEAREST STORE AT PILGRIM.DK/STORES
FRIDAY AUGUST 08
DANSK DAILY
B Y MALE N E BIRGER WORDS Sille Henning PHOTO Copenhagen Fashion Week
Nods to Navajo
In the raw settings of the old industrial area at Papirøen, By Malene Birger closed a long day of shows Wednesday, with a collection inspired by Native Americans.
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SHOWS
It was a collection simpler and cleaner in the design than what we have been used to seeing from the label, the detailing subtle and toned down, the silhouette more tailored and modern. The color palette, too, was quite toned down, with the traditional bright colors like pink and yellow substituted by black and
whites with a bit of dusty blue and red sand. It worked nicely on the luxurious silk and soft leather materials, leaving space for more discreet embellishments like decorated hemlines and what appeared as stitching. The fringe overload and deconstructed Navajo prints were reminiscent of old Westerns. A sophisticated and deluxe example of this – and one of the favorites in the collection – was the fringed black-and-white wool poncho. The many wide-legged menswear-inspired pants and round-shouldered coats were also among the collection’s top hits. They will definitely appeal to the label’s many followers.
The show could easily have become the “difficult second show” for creative director Christina Exteen, who only last season took over as creative head from Malene Birger herself. But she did well, and delivered a beautiful collection with many of the ingredients from the label’s DNA. But while the dressed downed approach was quite refreshing, it is also a path to tread carefully so that it doesn’t get too clean and simplistic and thereby move too far away from the feel of glamor that has gained the label such success.
Explore the Energy of Creation
KORNE PAVÉ BRACELET Black diamonds in 18K rose gold
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DANSK DAILY
A challenge to knitting physics
STINE LADEFOGED WORDS Sille Henning PHOTO Copenhagen Fashion Week
When it comes to knitwear, designer Stine Ladefoged is truly gifted. It often seems she’s challenging the laws of knitting physics, pushing the envelope for what it’s possible to design in knit with her many sculptured dresses. Yesterday’s show at the city hall was no exception.
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SHOWS
This season’s collection showed references to what looked like human skeletons, as seen
in the strings connecting top and bottom in a knit dress, and the dress in a knitted skeleton-like pattern, adding a dramatic yet humoristic touch to the collection. There were also several sporty references, like the voluminous skirt in perforated neoprene or the white leather skater skirt mixed with a white bomber jacket, also in leather, with
neoprene sleeves. While these worked really well, there were also some more casual styles in grey and black in the middle of the show that didn’t really uphold the standard of the rest of her design. A bit of a shame, since she really is a talented designer, as proven in particular by the cobalt blue knit dress that opened the show on model-of-the-moment Astrid E.
FRIDAY AUGUST 08
DANSK DAILY
JEA N// PH I LL I P WORDS Lotte Freddie PHOTO Copenhagen Fashion Week
Masked Avengers
Yesterday was men’s day – the favored show date of many men’s designers during Copenhagen Fashion Week. Jean Phillip was one. The Dane with a French name who excels in edgy design with specific attention to detailing also puts emphasis on couture-like workmanship. The autodidactic designer started his brand in 2007, and has since developed his avant-garde ideas for a discerning public.
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SHOWS
Jean Phillip’s fans will appreciate really attractive pieces in light white nylon – like
a great hooded coat in generous lines worn over matching narrow trousers, and a long white sweater in thin net. Phillip also invents his own prints – this time in a nice black and white sky pattern – with a dark red patch added on one side of an ample blouson. Or in a Japanese-like blue sky motif – also very handsome in another biggish coat.
There were Bermuda shorts under sleeveless T-shirts, tank tops, or long net knit sweaters with side slits and edged with silver zips. The details, echoed from the masks, that the models were wearing were translated into braces hanging in the front or back on tops in black or a lovely cherry red. The same color, as well as black, was used in shorts suits – jackets matched with the completely unsexy low-crotched shorts one thought had been happily forgotten years ago. But the color was nice.
22 - 24 AUGUST 2014
REGISTRATION IS OPEN REGISTER FOR FREE ON WWW.CPHJWS.DK
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FRIDAY AUGUST 08
DANSK DAILY
AS GER JUEL That’s A Winner LARSEN WORDS Moussa Mchangama PHOTO Copenhagen Fashion Week
Let’s be frank here: I’ve been a fan of Asger Juel Larsen since I first saw his work. Since his first Russian-themed collection shown at Copenhagen Fashion Week years ago, he’s only become more and more rebellious. Thank god for that.
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SHOWS
He may seem like a punkish enfant terrible, but the truth is he’s one of our most gifted designers. The acid green bubble wrap print illustrated the theme well. Even though it shields and protects, it breaks easily. What happens then? It’s useless, just like the
anarchic and dystopian societies Juel Larsen envisions. His gang of skinheads wore dyed denims, black tops, and knitted sweaters that were ripped at the seams, embellished with a metal stamp of his logo. But most impressive was his use of neoprene. Many designers work with it, but m a ke it seem bulky. It’s a good way to create volume, but if you do it the wrong way, you
just look like a stuffed animal. Juel Larsen, on the other hand, made brilliant sporty neoprene trench coats in neon colors. A layer of mesh on the outside made the color shift as the slim and pale models moved to the live rock music. It absolutely showcased that he’s a brilliant technician, and one who masters every fabric. Everything may seem like a chaotic mess, but if you look closely (even at the raincoat) you’ll see that the seams and cuts are made in the best possible way. He’s not only a keeper – he’s a designer that needs international recognition. Now.
PREGO EYEWEAR – WWW.PREGOEYEWEAR.DK
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DANSK DAILY
H ENRIK VIBS KOV WORDS Moussa Mchangama PHOTO Copenhagen Fashion Week
Bric-a-Brac
Few designers can get away with combining inspirations like “cement mixers, construction sites, bricks, swimming pools, and water sports” (not the sexual kind [I think]). Henrik Vibskov would be one of the only ones, and closing fashion week’s show schedule, he did exactly that again: combined what seems like arbitrary subjects into something that works.
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SHOWS
Vibskov always does big, big installations, and this time he’s collaborated with the Norwegian National Opera and Ballet, choreographer
Alexander Ekman, and composer Mikael Karlsson to create a modern rendition of Swan Lake. Dancing in a big, 150 m2 pool of water, the 10 dancers performed the entire time. With the title “The Sticky Brick Fingers”, it was the designer’s usual mix of quirky and wearable, a play on volumes and lengths, prints, colors and fabrics. “The womenswear is a bit more minimalistic, the silhouette a bit slimmer, everything a bit
more simple,” Vibskov offered as I asked him how the womenswear was different from the menswear he always shows during Paris Fashion Week. And so, it was an eclectic mix of neoprene, double-faced jersey (gorgeous re-constructed pieces), transparency, and rounded, soft shapes. He’s been experimenting with construction the last couple of seasons, and the (show)pieces that played on that were among the best. Prints this season are gorgeous, fun, and come in a variety that ensures broad popularity.
Syversen_DanskDaily Aug2014_Layout 1 31/07/14 10.30 Side 1
Ciff Copenhagen 3-6 August 2014 Stand B5-014
Moteforum Oslo 11-17 August 2014 Rom 416
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Stockholm Fashion Week 11-17 August 2014 Stand TSR 2.06
FRIDAY AUGUST 08
DANSK DAILY
The new DANSK Design Talents, Freya Dalsjø, Kjetil Aas, Mark Tan, and Trine Lindegaard, are the most talented young designers I've seen lately.
Spalt PR's John Correll with self-absorbed model-blogger Pernille Teisbæk. The smooth lounge-music live band gave hung-over fashion writer Moussa Mchangama a headache for the ages.
DANSK Collective always draw a big crowd
Muuse's Gitte is all about curating fashion.
Elsebeth Mouritzen, Lotte Freddie and Uffe Buchard are all involved in Dansk Daily, so this picture is the perfect example of print-journalism narcissism.
DANSK C OLL ECTI VE P H OTO S – H E L E N A L U N D Q U I S T
W O R D S – M AG N U S J O R E M
DANSK Magazine hosted a laid-back, loungey event Thursday to showcase some of Danish fashion's finest brands, with live music, fresh coffee, and lots of parma ham.
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V.I.P. VERY IMPORTANT PRINCESSES
ALT for Damerne's Louise Amstrup, IC Companys's Brit Bennet and fashion journalist Lotte Freddie all love soaking themselves in luxury in front of the fireplace when they return home after a tough day of shopping.
Designer Stine Goya and Noise PR's Cindie will each produce a new fashion monster come December.
Fonnesbech's Mette Julie, DANSK's Kim Grenaa and Munthe's Naja Munthe take great delight in lathering, rinsing, exfoliating, moisturising, and oiling the sensitive babyskin between their toes.
Socialite Jean Ahlefeldt and jeweler Orit Elhanati are like the chicest eurotrash bitches in the universe, and everyone else is super jealous.
Six Ames's Marianne Barslev and IN's Carla Strube will undress you with their eyes and think lewd thoughts about your anatomy.
Whiite's Arman uncomfortably hugging some lady who claimed to be morning TV's Ann Lind Andersen.
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FRIDAY AUGUST 08
DANSK DAILY
Choreographer Ray Roa likes helicopters. Teacher/model/musician Adam Kojo Winther is against the presence of knives in nightlife, but secretly conceals a dagger in his hairbun.
God is like Danish and his name is like Rasmus Skousen.
Fashion designer Mads Nørgaard is like so Copenhagen, he even bikes
No idea who she is or what she does, but who cares, Lærke Jerup Østergaard's fashion sense is 90s perfection, from the necksessory to the buffalos to the flawless dress in colors that can only warm a Danish heart.
Having flown to Copenhagen earlier today, bloggers David Roth and Carl Jakob Haupt were too stoned to realize that the cannabis legalization parade was taking place in Copacabana, not Copenhagen.
WOOD WOO D Y-3 P H OTO S – H E L E N A L U N D Q U I S T
W O R D S – M AG N U S J O R E M
Copenhagen streetwear label Wood Wood invited 90s fashionistas, stoners, designers,and journalists for a preview of the new Y-3 collection.
Cover Magazine-sensation Karoline and slim male friend made five million dollars blogging last year, which is like Lars Løkke Rasmussen's lagkage budget, I mean, it's huge.
B-day girl Annika has perfected the iphoneand-beer-clutched-in-one-finger technique, surpassing friend Nikita's skills, which involve a mere cigarette.
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V.I.P. VERY IMPORTANT PRINCESSES
Mytheresa.com's Justin O’Shea and Harper's Bazaar's Veronika Heilbrunner with the most important fashion icon since Jesus Christ, Karl Oskar Olsen.
No matter how fabulous it is, Junko Usami (Monki) and Junya Kajima (EIA Agency) better not visit the Yasakuni Shrine any time soon or they'll spoil their chances on the Chinese fashion market, which is kinda growing in significance.
Andrea from Designers Remix and Christel Siebenhaar secretly aspire to one day sell products on QVC, just like Joan Rivers.
Cover Magazine's Melissa and Camilla are expecting a ridiculous caption, but won't get one.
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