Dansk Daily Thursday

AUTUMN / WINTER 2013

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

THURSDAY JANUARY 31ST

PRINCESS OF NEOPRENE

REVIEWS

EST. 1995 BENEDIKTE UTZON WARDROBE KOPENHAGEN FUR | FREYA DALSJO | HENRIK VIBSKOV

BEAUTY

SPOT

Premium Decadence SAND

LOOK OF THE DAY WHIITE COVER PHOTO FREYA DALSJÖ BY SIMON B. MØRCH

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Fai r fa s h i on f or e v eryo ne Editorial

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Elsebeth Mouritzen

Today, Annette Vilhelmsen, Denmark’s Minister for Business and Growth, meets with some of the key players on the Danish fashion scene at CIFF. Not trendy designers, not high-profile fashion houses, but leaders from a handful of solid and successful commercial companies like DK Company, Hummel, Claire, and New Generals, which contribute strongly to making fashion the fourth largest export business in Denmark, despite the recession.

Continued growth is high on the agenda for this meeting to ensure jobs on all levels and in all areas of the multifaceted fashion business, in addition to the issues of sustainability and social responsibility. The tool, developed by Danish Fashion Institute, DAFI, is an online guide called ”Learn how to be NICE,” where manufacturers can develop their own ethical code of conduct.

This is just one of several initiatives to continously improve a business that influences the livelihoods of thousands, and this creates great expectations for the outcome of this week’s gathering of professionals, whether their focus is on CIFF, Gallery, or Vision, or a combination of all trade fairs.

Also because this season marks the collaboration between the three on registration- and shuttle services, plus a welcome extension of the ethical charter for the models on the runway, which concerns a decent minimum pay for their work and not just a learning experience as reward.

Even though times are tough with restrained budgets for some, everybody should be treated fairly and respectfully for their participation in moving the business forward — and get paid accordingly.

It was all the more satisfying to see SAND return to the show circuit after a few seasons of absence, in full blast with 24 (wellpaid) top models and City Hall resembling the best of international venues.

They have the means to do so, yes, but on a different note, so does Kim Rasmussen of Womens Wear, who gave Benedikte Utzon a new beginning; as does the aforementioned DK Company. In an interview with TV2 News, the CEO of the latter confided that their strategy to move forward is to invest in their clients, inviting them to Copenhagen to experience a fantastic fair and a vibrant city for the next couple of days.

On the whole, it sounds very promising, also judging by the reviews of yesterday’s shows, so let’s hope it will be a fashion week that makes a difference.

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EDITORIAL

Contributors PUBLISHERS DANSK Magazine & Copenhagen Fashion Week EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Elsebeth Mouritzen CREATIVE EDITOR / PROJECT MANAGER Rozanna Fritz ART DIRECTION / GRAPHIC DESIGN Marco Pedrollo, Kasper Fjederholt, Mikkel M. Andersen · IRONFLAG SUB-EDITOR Magnus Jorem EXECUTIVE EDITOR Anne Christine Persson BEAUTY EDITOR Mikkel Hyldebrandt Web Editor / Editorial Assistant Rikke Charlotte Larsen

Editorial assistant Julie Christine Kühne WRITERS Moussa Mchangama, Lotte Freddie Rikke Dyrholm, Sille Henning FashionForum Naja Helene Hertzum, Anne Kongsbak PHOTOGRAPHERS Simon B. Mørch, Mathilde Schmidt Jonas Dahl Grue, Copenhagen Fashion Week Sales Representative Jens Løkke DISTRIBUTION Louise Hansen, Julie Christine Kühne, Sabine Lyneborg PRINT Berlingske Avistryk

w w w. o l e ly n g g a a r d . d k j e w e l l e r y d e s i g n c h a r l o t t e & o l e ly n g g a a r d •

50th a n n i v e r s a r y c e l e b r at i o n visit our flagship stores • copenhagen city centre: ny østergade 4 copenhagen airport: nytorv • stoc kholm c it y c entre: hamngatan 11

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Another story Swedes have a knack for minimalism — think COS, Acne, Filippa K, and Whyred — and they’re set to launch another stylish brand, which has turned into a whole concept called & Other Stories. Initially, H&M asked a designer to develop an individual beauty range for them, and while the ideas were flowing, the project gradually pointed towards fashion, and finally the mass-market giant agreed to create an individual brand with an identity consisting of beauty, accessories and fashion in wearable colours and designs at affordable prices. Launching all over Europe in the spring, the Copenhagen shop gets a prime location on the pedestrian shopping street Strøget.

Fashion literature Two books on Scandinavian and Danish fashion are being released just in time for Copenhagen Fashion Week. Fashion Scandinavia, written by Danish author Dorothea Gundtoft and published by esteemed publishing house Thames and Hudson, gives you an overview of the Scandinavian fashion industry and features more than fifty profiles of Scandinavian designers. www.thamesandhudson.com

Fashion historian Marie Riegels Melchior is the author of a brand-new book, Dansk på mode!, which you gives an extensive introduction to the fashion industry in Denmark and the phenomenon Danish fashion. It is well researched and definitely worth a read. www.mbt.dk

Brunchy brilliance

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news

Preview next season’s key items while chatting with the talents behind the design: You’ll get the chance when DANSK Magazine for the second time ever hosts the DANSK Collective brunch for national and international press on Friday during Copenhagen Fashion Week.

With a sure hand, the DANSK Magazine team has selected its favorite Danish fashion- and accessory brands from the forthcoming season to showcase key items from each collection. Among the designers, you’ll meet Asger Juhl Larsen, Anne Sofie Madsen, Soulland, Won Hundred and Line&Jo — so stop by for a delicious standing brunch!

Editor’s pick of the day I like the fact that I can wear fashionable pointed shoes without the towering stilettos. Slippers from Bruuns Bazaar.

THURSDAY JANUARY 31ST

dansk daily

Behind the camera When designer Malene Birger decided to step down from the board of directors of her company a couple of years ago, it was to free more time for creative work. Besides her designs, she has found time to develop as an artist, exhibiting water colors and paintings in Mallorca, where she lives part time — and now she is also in charge of the photos for her 10th anniversary media campaign of the By Malene Birger collection The Celebration.

Copenhagen-o-mania!

Vivienne Westwood <3 Scandinavia This season, British enfant terrible Vivienne Westwood has moved the presentation of her sublime Anglomania line to Copenhagen. She’s previously showed Anglomania in Berlin, and this is her first visit to Scandinavia — to the great pleasure of Danish fashion fair Gallery’s CEO, Christian Gregersen: ”It means a whole lot to Copenhagen that international shows guest the city. Copenhagen Fashion Week is experiencing a certain globalization process these years — there’s never been this many international shows.”

News provided by Fashionforum.dk

Seen on the green screen To feel earth, wind and fire with a splash of water and technology, meet the Monki spring/summer 2013 campaign. Utilizing the green screen, Monki plays with the opportunity to be creative in a whole new dimension and transport its fans to a world of wonder. At Dansk Daily, we can’t get enough of this in-between reality, which makes you want to float away to blue skies, sandy dunes, and into summer nights filled with drinks and seafood.

Nourishing your ’do

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news

We already love the original Moroccanoil Oil treatment.

Now we have a crush on another product — intended for use far from Morocco. In the frosty weather of Copenhagen wintertime, your hair is guaranteed to be no fan of running outside, but this hydration shampoo and conditioner with its powerful Argan oil blended rich in vitamins can help your hair stay even softer and more eye-catching in the wintertime. Get your hair to feel more elastic, give off a healthier look, and attract all those chilly, envious gazes.

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Louisiana x Andy Warhol Think Andy Warhol, and you’re bound to picture the king of pop art.

PICK OF THE DAY

But that’s not the whole Warhol story. One of our favorite contemporary art museums, Louisiana – Museum of Modern Art just north of Copenhagen, proudly presents this first-ever museum exhibit of an exceptional collection of fine drawings by a very young Andy Warhol in the 1950s. If you think you know this iconic artist, you’ll be surprised that many of the drawings are sketch-like in character with subjects that the artist, with his keen eye, took from newspapers and magazines and transformed with a simple Warhol line.

BELSAC CLUTCH www.belsac.dk The exhibition will continue until February 21. www.louisiana.dk

Collaborative showpiece hits stores

Creative editor Rozanna loves THE SS 2013 COLLECTION FROM WOOD WOOD www.woodwood.dk

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news

Last fashion week, a successful collaboration between fashion designer Stine Goya and up-and-coming jewelry designer Trine Tuxen caused a big fuss. Trine Tuxen’s unique showpieces for Stine Goya’s SS13 show dazed the fashion world, leaving loyal Goya fans keen for Tuxen’s jewelry. Following the successful collaboration, one of the unique showpieces is now in production and hits stores this summer.

We are looking forward to getting our hands on the gold-plated bullet earcuff in 24 carats. A definite summer must-have.

Inside Copenhagen

THURSDAY JANUARY 31ST

Make your kitchen decor a real talking point with MENU’s stunning range of unique household accessories that marry cosiness and earthen details with Scandinavian minimalism.

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Terrific terracotta

A collaboration between material-driven designer Benjamin Hubert and Danish design house MENU has resulted in a range of terracotta pots with rubber lids. The focus of the collection is on the contrast between the ancient traditions found in terracotta and super modern shapes and the industrial-finish mass-produced rubber lids.

Pots provide an earthen landscape of sculptural yet functional items for your kitchen table, desk, or windowsill. The series consists of four vessels, each performing a specific function: a spaghetti- or grissini pot, a pasta- and grains pot, a sugar pot, and a cookie- or candy pot. A manifestation of simplicity, an ode to history and an acknowledgement of the qualities and aesthetics of our soil and what it provides us. www.menu.as

Birgitte Hjort Sørensen The savvy journalist-cum-spindoctor Katrine Fønsmark in DR1’s critically acclaimed TV-series ”Borgen” seldom has time off to enjoy the city, but the real-life actress who portrays her, Birgitte Hjort Sørensen, thoroughly enjoys the quiet side of Copenhagen.

Where do you go for a unique shopping experience in Copenhagen?

Ecouture on Fælledvej in Nørrebro makes beautiful, feminine, organic and sustainable clothes for women, and the shop itself is like a magical cave.

What’s the best place to eat dinner in Copenhagen?

If you’re a crowd, Madklubben on Vesterbrogade or Store Kongens Gade provides good food at affordable prices in a lively environment.

For intimate dinners, I love Pony on Vesterbrogade.

What’s your favorite spot in the city?

I love the fact that Copenhagen is full of oases. The Botanical Gardens is one of the most central parks in the city, and it looks enchanting in the wintertime with the snow.

DANSK OUT IN FEBRUARY

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One of my all-time favorite authors is Suzanne Brøgger, and she just released a new book called Til T. I am planning to unwind with the book after fashion week. If you do not read Danish and have to wait for the English translation, I’d recommend catching up on her previous work Deliver Us from Love and The Jade Cat.

news

New design, new size, different paper and, of course, lots of high fashion.

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Anne loves Suzanne BrOgger

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Hippie harmony on a string THE DAILY GEM Despite the general global recession, Danish brothers Mads and Mikkel Kornerup are enjoying increasing success with their exclusive Shamballa bracelets in new markets as well as on the homefront. They even have Karl Lagerfeld charmed by the wrist.

During last year’s haute couture shows in Paris, master designer at Chanel Karl Lagerfeld gave Mads Kornerup a big thank-you hug.

“It’s always me designing for everyone else, and it is so rare that someone designs for me,” he said with genuine affection to the Danish jewelry designer, when he found out that Mads Kornerup had had him in mind for the four bracelets he was wearing, without making it explicit. He had just placed them on display at the famous concept store Colette on rue Saint-Honoré, where Karl Lagerfeld happened to spot them himself.

“I told him that it had always been my dream to put a little color on him, since he is the most achromatic dresser. So I was pleased to see him with the spectacular green Columbian emerald dangling on his wrist, which I’d had in mind for him.”

I was happy with what I created, but I didn’t dream that I would create a trend. In 2005, we launched our first diamond pavé balls, and we suddenly had a huge demand from the ladies.”

“Today, the Shamballa Bracelet is a generic style name, something that takes most brands many years and a long tradition of craftsmanship to achieve. It is still unreal when people mention a Shamballa bracelet in the same breath as a Cartier Love bracelet or a De Beers Eternity ring. This unexpected success is what continues to inspire me to innovate,” says Mads Kornerup, who leaves the business side to his brother Mikkel.

The humble beginnings have now paid off. Despite

the recession, Shamballa has grown steadily, and at the fastest pace during the last few years. Already present in 18 countries, they are now set to launch in three new regions, Dubai, Hong Kong, and Romania, and as we speak, they are negotiating with retailers in Brazil.

But their big pride is also the newly opened flagship store on the elegant Ny Østergade in central Copenhagen, and the fact that the craftmanship is not outsourced, but remains in Danish hands.

“Frankly, I don’t have a formula for how we managed to do it, other than staying true to our idea. As we don’t produce collections per se, our focus is on custom pieces. We introduce new designs whenever we feel we have an excellent design worth sharing.”

This is very telling of the success of brothers Mads and Mikkel Kornerup, who founded Shamballa Jewels twelve years ago. They are ambitious, but in a humble hippie-sort-of-way. Their popular jewelry is not only set with the most precious of stones, but also offers the kind of inspiration that makes the wearer look beyond just the material value.

“The newest designs we unveiled — the flat lock bracelets — are inspired by Buddhist prayer flags and come in rich gemstones of emeralds, rubies, sapphires, and moonstones that reflect the color of the prayer flags. The raw gems pass through the hands of seven master craftsmen over a period of seven days to come out as glistening squares.”

“I designed the first Shamballa bracelet in 2001, a custom design for Jay-Z. Yoga and meditation were, and still are, an intrinsic part of my life, so I took inspiration from prayer beads and made Jay-Z a bracelet of gold beads held together by the macramé technique.

“As with all my designs, the message is as important as the quality of gems and craftsmanship. We hope to help share the message of harmony just as the Buddhist prayer flags do,” says Mads Kornerup.

words Elsebeth Mouritzen

JOIN THE CELEBRATION Copenhagen Fashion Festival is a seasonal celebration of all things fashion in the Danish capital. Open to everyone, Copenhagen Fashion Festival welcomes both Copenhageners and visitors to take part in the array of open events that the festival has to offer in the shops and streets of Copenhagen. Indulge in discounts and goodie bags, attend shows and exhibitions, or party your heels off

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All during Copenhagen Fashion Festival, January 31 — February 3. For what, where, and when check copenhagenfashionfestival.com — and like the festival on Facebook.

The color is green.

Emerald green.

The color experts at Pantone have just revealed which colors you should paint everything from your nails to your fixie bike with in 2013. Whereas last year we were all advised to wear a deep orangey hue when Pantone named Tangerine Tango color of the year 2012, this year it’s all about green. Enter: Emerald. ”The emerald green color brings a feeling of clarity, renewal and regeneration — all very important in a modern, complex world,” explains Leatrice Eiseman, CEO at Pantone Color Insitute.

News provided by Fashionforum.dk

DANISH DESIGN

Bel Sac clutch i ægte pythonskind, håndmalet i Italien

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ECCO Hide and seek WA LK IN S TY LE words Elsebeth Mouritzen photo Copenhagen Fashion Week

Ecco celebrates its 50th anniversary later this year as one of Denmark’s most successful shoe brands, but CEO Dieter Kasprzak only touched lightly on the occasion when he hosted the traditional festive red carpet dinner to kick off Copenhagen Fashion Week at City Hall on Tuesday night.

Instead, he kept his focus on what has become the signature of the family business, comfort and craftmanship, combined with social responsibility in their annual charity award, WalkInStyle.

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SHOWS

In order to reflect the core competences of their success, he and Ecco’s ladies head designer Niki Tæstesen had dreamed up a different kind of show for the fashion professionals attending. Taking their cues from the commercial A/W collection, they went all out in an elaborate presentation of leathers and hides, thus displaying their comprehensive expertise. The shoes and boots were designed in-house as experimental

showpieces, but several of them could easily qualify as streetwear, especially the studded shoes and low boots.

To complement the footwear, Ecco had assigned Danish jewelry designer and createur Zarah Voigt to make equally spectacular costumes for the models, using her unique sense of shape and form to create graphic and sometimes almost theatrical costumes.

Previously, the nominees for the WalkInStyle award have had their focus on helping women and children in third-world countries, but CEO of Danish Fashion Institute Eva Kruse justified the choice of Sweden’s Julia Mjörnstedt as this year’s recipient, because her commitment was to an important cause a little closer to home. She recieved the 33,000 euros for her work with ”Young Cancer,” an organisation that helps young cancer patients like herself seek help and information on their disease in her home country.

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JEWL SCP H words Lotte Freddie photo Copenhagen Fashion Week

Mai’s must-have teardrops The Danish jewel industry is booming — both design-wise and economically, according to Nina Hald, jewelry-expert and -writer and author of several coffee-table books. Business keeps going forward for the segment’s big-league brands like Ole Lynggaard, Georg Jensen, and Pandora, but the smaller labels are also making their mark during fashion week.

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SHOWS

Just take Mai Manniche, who, with the presentation of her label JewlsCPH, delivered the only jewelry show during Copenhagen Fashion Week. In fact the week’s very first runway show, staged in Nikolaj Church.

It is daring to present jewelry — the tiniest part of the fashion industry — under such vast, high vaults, but it worked as a theatrical contrast to the romantic chains, rings and earrings which, luckily, were blown up on a screen at the end of the church. Otherwise it would have been difficult to catch the details of lovely light gold sautoires

(long necklaces) with inlaid turquoise or amethyst stones, often two at a time, resting on full, heaving bosoms. Or the musthave teardrop- or chandelier earrings in rose quartz, rubies, or blue topazes dangling under film-star glamour hair.

Mai Manniche, herself the perfect model for her designs, is a self-taught jeweller whose love of precious gemstones, sterling silver, and 18-carat gold — and lots of color — has resulted in a beautiful collection of sophisticated, becoming, and very useable jewels. All of them bringing that extra bling to all of us.

Ganni.dk

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EDITH Pan Am, thank you ma’m & EL LA words Rikke Dyrholm photo Copenhagen Fashion Week

The Edith & Ella show at hotel Nimb on Wednesday was a true journey back in the decades, to a time when chic, trendy young women ruled the air.

The tribute to Pan Am airline’s female hostesses in the late 60s and early 70s played out as stewardesses passed the audience dressed in all the signature goodness of those decades.

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Granting glamorous praise of the female shape with a focus on waistlines, shoulders, and legs, the collection was a celebration of

strong women of that era. Details like peplum and ruffles on tight skirts and jackets, pockets and big golden bottoms were leading details, whereas fluffy knee-long skirts, A-shaped dresses in color block, high waisted casual pants, see-through tops and shirts, underscored the airline theme.

Featuring a material mix of slightly seethrough materials in delicate flower and animal prints, feminine knits and embroidered taffeta in metallic turquoise and gold colors, the collection exhibited a coherent wardrobe for young, chic flight attendants.

True to Edith & Ella’s brand DNA, the color palette presented a circus of colors and shades like curry yellow, turquoise, red, purple, gold, black and burgundy mixed in outfits of contrast colors. A play with red and black, checkered and striped patterns, lacquered bags in light delicate pinks with cherries, lots of animal features and stockings with a black seam behind, implied a wide-ranging service onboard Edith & Ella.

On a final note: Thank you for travelling with Edith & Ella.

Model: Marikka Juhler / Scoop Models Messe: For um-Galler y stand 021

WEBSHOP // w w w. b i t t e kai r and.com

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KO PENH AG EN F UR words Sille Henning photo Copenhagen Fashion Week

Enter the manimals

Copenhagen Fashion Week was officially opened yesterday by Kopenhagen Fur show at City Hall.

Under the heading ‘Men in fur,’ Kopenhagen Fur had collaborated with six different international designers who each showed their vision of how to incorporate fur into the wardrobe of the modern man. It was quite refreshing to see their different takes on the assignment of a material most often linked to womenswear — from easy, adoptable, more commercial styles to avant-garde craftsmanship and streetwear.

the dress code of English tailoring. From their classic coats with big fur collars to more subtle fur detailing in pockets and linings. This work could easily be envisioned in a more commercial setting.

The young, talented Danish designer Astrid Andersen, who is known for her fashionable take on streetwear loaded with hip hop references, showed how to combine street

attitude with fur. This was particularly successful in items like a number tee in mink and a bomber jacket with fur sleeves — very street and very Kanye West…

The French design label Maison Christian Lacroix offered a more futuristic approach with scuba-inspired windbreakers that combine fur and rubber, shaved and painted fur, and intriguing silhouettes.

French Gaspard Yurkievich had played with colored fur, while Russian Leonid Alexeev used the material to create patterns on men’s outerwear. Notting Hill, a Chinese label, showed a more urban approach to traditional tailoring.

The London-based duo Baartmans & Siegel showed their take on how to mix fur into

Notting Hill

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Notting Hill

Baartmann & Siegel

SHOWS

Astrid Andersen

Astrid Andersen

Baartmann & Siegel

ALT OM MODEBRANCHEN

www.FashionForum.dk

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Travel in time

WH I I TE words Elsebeth Mouritzen photo Copenhagen Fashion Week

A far cry from the waning colors and crumbling beauty of Venice, Frederikke Whiite set her stage in a concrete parking lot off the bustling streets of the bohemian Copenhagen neighbourhood Ă&#x2DC;sterbro, but it was nevertheless the nostalgia of Italyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s romantic city that had inspired her for the small collection, revealed before the eyes of famous singer Medina, fashion dignitaries and local politicians alike.

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The muted colors in cream, grey, emerald green, oatmeal, black and ochre all echoed her travel memories, but somehow the cuts and shapes gave this onlooker a

flashback to 60s London with finely knit turtlenecks and leather t-shirts teamed with miniskirts and slim pants in patchwork of leather and suede, short skirts in tweed and oversize cosy cardigans.

Frederikke Whiite cut a particularly nice silhouette in feminine tweed coats with rounded shoulders and small collars, and she gave romantic blouses and dresses in ivory crepe with lace a cutting edge with black zippers down the back, while silk dresses with shirttails and romantic graphic prints were a safe bet for the casual bohemian.

pilgrim.dk / find nearest retailer at pilgrim.dk/stores

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JEAN// PH ILL I P words Moussa Mchangama photo Copenhagen Fashion Week

A female resurrection

It’s been quite the wait for female fans of Jean//Phillip. Old adherents will remember a few styles for women back in the early days, but in the last couple of seasons, the designer has only included a few unisex pieces to satisfy the femmes. Today though, five female models closed the show. Jean Phillip’s womenswear is a welcome addition to his line, adding a bit of lurking sexiness.

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Also refreshing? The use of both color and print in Jean//Phillip’s mostly black and

grey universe; a dark plum and a dusty, dark blue were great hues, while the garments in a smokey, twisted print (made by the designer on his laptop) were some of the best pieces in the collection, whether for male or female. A military-inspired shirt for men was among the best styles.

Trousers could have had a better fit on the models — the new broader ones he introduced really demand something of the

wearer — but overall, it was a slimmer silhouette, with less of the frayed linen pieces than seen before. That was absolutely a plus, but still, the well-established universe of Jean//Phillip would benefit and get more refined from even more new additions to its vocabulary. If the designer wants to keep pushing himself and his brand forward and expand on his universe, continuing his work with dashing colors and prints would be a good idea. That certainly worked for him today.

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S TI NE Nordic knits ready for combat LA DEFO G ED words Rikke Dyrholm photo Copenhagen Fashion Week

In the Copenhagen Stock Exchangeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s historic surroundings, designer Stine Ladefoged continued her characteristic cutting-edge knitwear mission. With a keen interest in warriors, now with a color palette fond of Nordic nature, she managed to create a buzz with a regiment of knitted warriors ready for combat.

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True to Stine Ladefogedâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature style, the knitwear was carried out in complicated cable knits and chainmail-like constructions with nods to Japanese origami. Featuring tight suits with fluffy bathmatinspired details on sleeves, dress bottoms and chests, knitted racer backs, dresses and leggings with crisscrossing or vertical cable knits, the entangled knitted

details drew attention to shoulders, arms, hips and legs. In addition to the entangled knitwear, leather had crept into the collection in skirts and pants.

Apart from a few styles, like a sweater with attached geometric metal- and black plastic elements, puffy leather skirts, printed leggings and capes, the collection wanted for wearability, with styles appearing a bit too radical for the majority of women.

However, the collection appeared striking in its own complicated mission, and Stine Ladefoged is without a doubt a skilled designer with a refined eye for detail.

Fulfilling beauty dreams since 1967

YOUR DREAMS – OUR INSPIRATION™

SHOP ONLINE PÅ WWW.ORIFLAME.DK

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EST. 1995 BENEDIKTE UTZON WARDROBE Back up to where she belongs words Lotte Freddie photo Copenhagen Fashion Week

She had to live through such gruesome events — but came out victorious in the end.

After posts as chief designer in various large firms, Benedikte Utzon established her own brand in 1995. With her special aesthetics of soft and sensual, she had great success in growing firm, and after a pause from doing fashion shows, she staged a terrific catwalk comeback the year before last. Everything came out rosy — until customers didn’t pay their bills, and Benedikte Utzon declared herself bankrupt.

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After turning down several offers from important brands, she recently decided on a designer contract with Kim Rasmussen, owner of the label Women’s Wear, and last night she made yet another comeback — a

terrific one — with her new brand, Est. 1995.

The soft has become tender-rough, and sensual is transformed into sexy. As far as I could gather from behind important or dubious celebrities, tight, short fencing jackets in brown leather or black Spanish lamb — worn with tight leather pencil skirts or

shorts — fought with brown bouclé tweed and a long mermaid dress in half-matte halfshiny leather for our enraptured attention.

As did bronze satin cut into full D’Artagnan blouses or as smouldering diva dresses. Bois de rose chiffon, as the perfect gathered loose dress or as a blouse matched with wide Katharine Hepburn trousers in chocolate leather, looked stunning, and a simple gathered orchid lilac chiffon dress was to die for, just like the most fab sexy black draped dress.

Tight toreador pants, black dotted apricot silk, fantastic fur coats in brown fox or orchid mink with brown fox sleeves — all in the best of materials… What wasn’t to wish for? It was a wonderful tour de force from a star with staying power.

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GREAT G R EENL AN D words Lotte Freddie photo Copenhagen Fashion Week

Fashion close to nature Benedikte Utzon comes from a legendary old Danish furrier family — Leidersdorff/Utzon — and therefore thinks of fur in different ways: As the craftsman who knows all about the skins and how to work them technically in all sorts of ways; and as the ever-evolving designer who constantly tries to invent new ways to treat the skins, the way to perceive them and how to use them.

In the 1990s, Benedikte developed designer collections for Great Greenland using the island’s natural resources — the seals that the locals, living hand-in-hand with nature, have been dependent upon for centuries as food as well as clothing.

Benedikte at the time brought the sealskins into fashion’s eye, and exactly this is Great Greenland’s goal for the new beautiful collec-

tion she has designed for the company — to place the sealskins back where they belong — on the top of the international fashion scene when designed by a fur connoisseur like Benedikte Utzon.

Enormous damage was done to the seal industry, especially owing to the French film star Brigitte Bardot’s misinformation about the

Inuit’s hunting methods of the seals. All this has been corrected and hopefully forgotten with Benedikte Utzon’s insight into the Inuits’ sustainable way of fishing and respect for their way of life; she has developed new ways of using the local product.

The seal is being used as any other clothing material and cut into sleeveless blousons, tight short jackets, coats and loose jackets, the skins often cut, like mink, in horizontal bands inserted with narrow leather ribbons. Beautiful in silver grey seal with pearl fox cuffs, or topped with a black/white striped fox cape. In a narrow black coat with metal zip in front or adorned with black fox epaulettes and fierce in a narrow jacket edged with shiny leather. It is a strong collection, quite beautiful and very modern, and shows the pearls of the ocean in the most worthy and respectful manner.

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Premium decadence

SA ND words Moussa Mchangama photo Copenhagen Fashion Week

On fashion week’s first night, premium Danish fashion brand SAND hosted a lavish runway show, packed with champagne, Danish celebrities from A-Z, and the best models Denmark has to offer (Eddie Klint, Juliane Grüner, Caroline Brasch-Nielsen and Nadja Bender, to name a few...).

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SHOWS

And the show delivered exactly what you could expect of this household name. The runway surrounded with snow, SAND offered great tailoring, an abundance of suits and blazer jackets, a display of everything a wardrobe needs for the stylish pack — from office to evening wear — plus a new take on last season’s equestrian boot (this time it came in croco and was

absolutely gorgeous). It was a display of a lush lifestyle for those who enjoy life, with girls bringing sexy back in an almost fetish-like universe with lingerie and corsets, and uniforms that channeled hot, hot, hot, sexy (and confident!) secretary.

For men, belts at the waist offered a new take on suiting, while black hats provided a communist feel.

The nuances ranged from black and grey to deep burgundy reds, with splashes of sequins, leather and transparent fabrics.

And so, those who subscribe to the SAND lifestyle won’t have a problem come fall.

www.est1995.eu CIFF stand no. E-022

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THURSDAY JANUARY 31ST

STASIA words Sille Henning photo Copenhagen Fashion Week

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SHOWS

Feminine flatter

Last nightâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Stasia showed a feminine and decorative collection that for sure would live up to the needs of her many followers seated at front row at the beautiful Nimb hotel.

and very short shorts. There was lots of silk, satin and lace materials with embellishments and feather details. There were also pleats, pinched-in waistlines, and soft draping.

pale metallic â&#x20AC;&#x201D; but of course black was the most dominant color. Furthermore, the designers also showed some daywear-inspired pieces, which conjured a sexy secretary look.

There were of course several feminine cocktail dresses, and long and alluring dresses with flattering necklines, see-through tops

The colors were mostly muted in dusty green, dusty blue and dusty rose, beige and

Among collection favorites were a black lace catsuit with a bare back and a daywear catsuit in beige wool with a lace-covered front.

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THURSDAY JANUARY 31ST

A provo in disguise

FRE YA DA LSJO words Lotte Freddie photo Copenhagen Fashion Week

Last season, Freya Dalsjö debuted at the Carlsberg breweries with a different and daring collection, bringing her lots of interest from the public and raves from the press.

It is always difficult to do a follow up to such write ups, but a collaboration with Kopenhagen Fur, which has sponsored mink and fox for the designer, has resulted in interesting and unusual design that shows the designer’s ability to work with other kind of materials than her favorite, leather.

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SHOWS

In short jackets, she matched wine mink with wine leather and dark turquoise mink with the same shade

of leather — on top of respectable wine and turquoise cropped jeans. A pink mink was cut vertically with horizontal edgings, black goat wafted from tunics and black fox emphasized the already over-dimensioned shoulders.

Focus was on the shoulders, cut wide into oblong ample sleeves in red neoprene-like jacket and leggings and in black dresses with inserted black leather panels. Underlining the architectural lines in the futuristic collection were stiff black leather panels waving from the side seams of dresses and trousers. Sharp and sculptural silhouettes from a promising and demanding new designer.

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THURSDAY JANUARY 31ST

HTime ENRI K after time VI BS KOV words Moussa Mchangama photo Copenhagen Fashion Week

There’s no denying that Henrik Vibskov is one of the most anticipated and elaborate shows during Copenhagen Fashion Week. As always with Vibskov, expect the unexpected in both installations and garments.

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SHOWS

This time the installation featured black flamingos turned upside down (the collection was called ‘The Stiff Neck Chamber’). But last night, Vibskov almost made that special joy it is to watch one of the designer’s shows drift away. It simply took too long to get the show started, and while it’s normally a pleas-

ure to watch these presentations, there’s a fine line between fun, excitement, and boredom. Here, we almost leaned towards the latter.

What saved this let-down was the collection itself. And luckily, after all, that’s what we were there for. Henrik Vibskov and his team delivered something flattering, exciting, and new, while maintaining the label’s distinct signature. He’s good with prints and knitwear, but this time around, they were particularly great: black/white dalmatian prints with orange details stood out, and the more

elaborate ones, quirky and bright, added zing to the collection. Outerwear with zippers and pockets were among the best pieces for both genders, while pointing in new directions. The Vibskov universe is a recognizable one, yet again and again, he delivers a diversity of funky and fun collections that are still wearable and ever more popular.

It’s a joy watching the universe unfold, but tightening the production next time would benefit everyone — the show itself, most importantly.

Par t ner s wit h M U U SE to Prom ote New Tal ent M a g a s i n i s d e v o t e d t o s u p p o r t i n g yo u n g fashion designers and bringing their i n s p i r i n g c r e a t i o n s t o a w i d e a u d i e n ce online at magasin.dk and in the Magasin department stores.

Magasin has chosen MUUSE as partner in the mission to patron new design talents i n t e r n a t i o n a l l y a n d b r i n g co l l e c t i o n s b y a p p r a i s e d yo u n g d e s i g n e r s t o M a g a s i n customers. MUUSE represents the worlds 100 most promising emerging fashion d e s i g n e r s a n d w o r ks w i t h t h e d e s i g n e r s t o c r e a t e s i g n a t u r e M U U S E Ed i t i o n s co l l e ctions.

M U U S E Ed i t i o n s co l l e c t i o n s ca n b e b o u g h t o n m a g a s i n . d k a n d i n 2 0 1 3 c u s t o m e r s ca n v i s i t t h e M U U S E p o p - u p i n M a g a s i n Ko n g e n s N y t o r v d u r i n g C o p e n h a g e n Fa s h i o n We e k f ro m Ja n u a r y 2 8 t h . t o Fe b u a r y 3 rd . a n d i n M a g a s i n Ă&#x2026; r h u s f ro m M a rc h 4 t h . t o 1 0 t h .

M a g re t h e D a l B u y i n g D i re c t o r M a g a s i n

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Young designers are invited to showcase and sell their collections in Magasin through our collaboration with M U U S E .

We wish to give our customers the very latest and upcoming in fashion. Our collaboration with M U U S E enables us to do this.â&#x20AC;?

D a v i d D e n c ke r M U U S E C EO & Fo u n d e r

"Magasin shares our ambition of helping the best young designers connect with the people who love fashion. Working with a strong brand such as Magasin not only gives the designers a stamp of approval but being present in Magasin allows to present our outstanding young designers to Magasin's customers."

NYSK ABELSEN DER STARTEDE EN REVOLUTION INDEN FOR HÅRPLEJE. Hos Moroccanoil brænder vi for sundt, naturligt smukt hår: Vi forbedrer enhver hårtype, bevarer integriteten af hvert eneste fiber og skaber effektive nyskabelser inden for hårpleje.

Mød vores første produkt: Det originale Moroccanoil Treatment.

Det er et revolutionært, banebrydende produkt inden for hårpleje med olie og som alene stod for den verdensomspændende begejstring for arganolie. En enestående formel, der er essentiel til styling, pleje og luksuriøs, glansfuld finish.

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THURSDAY JANUARY 31ST

look of the day

The softer side of punk W hiit e LO O K O F THE DAY Words Mikkel Hyldebrandt P hoto Mathilde Schmidt Makeup by MAC Cosmetics Key Makeup Artist Gry KjAErgaard

The look’s inspiration is sourced from a crossover between 1960s Swinging London and the emerging punk movement of the 70s.

The retro look is on the punkish side, but has not forsaken the softer and feminine look of the previous decade.

The skin is beautifully brushed with plenty of powder, but the underlying skin is thoroughly moistened giving it a lush and richly matted texture. The eyes are framed by graphic, rectangular eyeliner, which lends a hard edge to the shape of the eye, but this hardness is contrasted by the softness of the lips, which have been painted in a creamy shade of nude.

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LOOK OF THE DAY

While borrowing its inspiration from decades past, the look is highly contemporary and taps into the notion of modern women who are ready to conquer the world with their feminine power.

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The silhouette is undeniably 60s, with the back of the neck arched high and the sides gripping the head tightly. But the combed neatness has been infused with raw, tousled elements to give the hair lots of messy-sexy texture, and instead of the classic bun the look is completed by a loose ponytail underlining the mood of a good gone girl gone a little wild.

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THURSDAY JANUARY 31ST

Pop s ongs tre ss Li na gave her My Li ttle Pony hai rd o of l as t s ummer a rennai ssance and appeared at th e ce re mony wi th out-of -costume brony Paw M o d el A l eks a n d ra Ø rbeck pu mpe d up th e H el l er u p - fa c t o r fo r t he i n t ernational co u t u re- cl a d el i t e

The da rk h o rse m e n o f t he a po ca ly ps e

De s igne r Sus anne Rützou’ s pe rs onal s ty l e is an avalanche of ch arcoal raw ne ss . Fear not w h e n h e r w is e ne d e ye s pi erce your soul

ecco wa lk in s t y le

Grenaa/ B uchard namesake Ki m Grenaa lurks i n the shad ows to hi t the Gri nd r

Photos – Jonas Grue

Words – Magnus J ore m

A l l of C ope nh age n’ s Ve r y I mportant P rince ss e s we re gath e re d in ce l e brati on of f abulous phi lanth ropy and footwear at th e E CCO Wal k in Sty l e Award ce re mony Tuesd ay eveni ng.

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V.I.P. VERY IMPORTANT PRINCESSES

TV p erson a lit y Fe lix a im s fo r a n u pd a t ed, chee k ie r Ku rt Cob a in- i n - t u x l o ok

Social is t moth e r s upe rior Anne tte Vil h e l ms e n takes commie -ch ic to th e next l e ve l w ith comrade in blue, th e parl iame ntar y b eautician Pari

Saucy si lver-screen stunner B eate B i lle eats men f or breakf ast

D a n ce en t hu s i a s t M et t e L o u i s e Am a l i e Jus t-Kr yge r s pa rkl es l i ke a Swa rov s ki c r ys tal

Afte r th e ce re mony, th e nomine e s de ci d ed to f orm a girl b and, j oin X-Factor, and seri ously impre ss th e judge s ye t agai n

DENMARK’S ONLY real OUTLET VILLAGE HOME TO DANISH AND INTERNATIONAL BRANDS

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THURSDAY JANUARY 31ST

C ove r ’ s C h ris Pe de rs e n is going for th e C hri s t ian Stadil -l ook th is s eas on, jus t l ike l as t s eas on

Dani sh Fashi on Insti tute’s Ceci li e Thorsmark wi th the Cruella d eVi lle of the Zebra trad e

Fre de Ande rs e n from Euroman put h is finge r into various orifice s Paradise H o t e l’ s su p e r-ce lebri t y “ Pet er ” i s l o oki n g m o re and m ore like f a m e d so ccer pl ayer N i ckl a s B en d t n er

sa nd

Photos – Jonas Grue

U ni que M od els’ Jesper wanted the SAND collecti on to f eature baseball caps and leather jackets, and came out d i sappoi nted, captured here next to beami ng CEO Jacqueli ne

Words – Magnus J ore m

A fl a m boya n t cas t of s occe r pl aye rs , T V pe rs onal itie s , fas h ion e ditors , and mus icians planted thei r behi nd s on th e front row of SAN D’ s s h ow s ch e dul e come b ack on We dnesd ay.

B lack-clad comi c Casper wi th hi s saucy assi stant Isabel

The aquado ra ble Ibi S t øv i n g wa s o n ce en gaged t o a m a n wh o re qu es t ed t ha t a Mattel pla st ic doll co m e p a rt y w i t h hi m

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V.I.P. VERY IMPORTANT PRINCESSES

C o s t u m e’ s Maike n, Anne , T h ora are pus h ing th e dead-e ye l ook th is s eas on

B aroness Caroli ne F lemi ng sees two photog raphers stand i ng bef ore her, but only one wi ll conti nue on i n the runni ng to becomi ng next season’s Dansk Dai ly photographer

S t ylist An ja C a m i l l a i s t he m a s t erm i n d be h ind Crown P ri n cess M a r y’ s wa rd robe a n d i s t h ril l e d t h a t D e n m a rk ha s n o P i ppa bu m t o s t ea l al l t h e at t en t i o n fro m t he s a rt o ri a l g o o d i e Pop s inge r Me dina was once on a UK dance ch art

THURSDAY JANUARY 31ST

dansk daily

T he gi rl s ha d l o a d s o f d el i ci o u s man meat to oogl e Adam and the Ad oni ses would not be a b ad name f or thi s quartet

cotto nf i eld Photos – Jonas Grue

Words – Magnus J ore m

C o t t o n fi el d opte d for a h arb or e ve nt afte r dark ne ss fe l l to attract a h os t of da ri ng wi nter d ivers

De sig n e r H e n rik Vi bs kov cha n n el s ev i l post- ap oca lyp t ica m in im a li s m t o prove t ha t he d o es n’ t always re side in h is wh i m s i ca l d es i g n u n ivers e o f loony p a t t e rn s a n d h u m a n t o n g u e s t a g e pro ps

T h is man may b e “ th e b omb,” b ut in ab out a s e cond a mil l ion icy H2O ne e dl e s w il l pie rce h is crow n j e we l s

E u rowo m a n’ s G ert r u d e en joys a w ine mome nt w i t h s t y l i s t N a nna

Fans of Cottonf i eld enjoy a harborsi d e d i scussi on of the label’s d evelopment, as i s natural and proper at f ashi on recepti ons

E l l e ’ s Mie , Ceci li e and mysteri ous thi rd -party InWeari sta

inwea r

Photos – Jonas Grue

Words – Magnus J ore m

I nWear we nt for a cl ass y re ce ption in Se ch e r Gal l e r y on We dne s day to d raw i n all th e pur ve yors of tas te th at we re fit to b e mus te re d.

T h e croppe d b angs l ook ne ve r goe s out of s ty l e

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V.I.P. VERY IMPORTANT PRINCESSES

Am i m o n o -de sig n e r H el g a w i t h s t y l i s t M a ri a a re a l l about t h e n e w f a sh ion t ren d d i n o s a u r - chi c , bu t o pt ed f o r a m o re su b du ed l o ok o n Wed n es d ay

Ole Weng el f rom IC Companys wi th colleague Lars Tof t prove that you d on’t need a ti e or cuf f li nks to be a powerf ul male executive i n the ruthless cut-throat f ashi on i ndustry

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THURSDAY JANUARY 31ST

Curious fas h ionis to E mil T h or up rece ntly came out as “ not fab ul ous ,” bu t m et h ink s th e l ady doth prote s t too much

Hummel’s Chri sti an Stad i l went f or the Chri s Ped ersen-look thi s season, just li ke last season

Tech- w iz o f m o rn in g T V An n L i n d An d ers en u s ed cuttin g-e dg e g a dg e t s t o pu t t o g et her t hi s o u t fi t Radical pol itician Manu Sare e n i s a total sucker f or lus cious appl ications of fur in elegant menswear

ko penh ag en f ur Photos – Jonas Grue

Words – Magnus J ore m

Kope nh age n Fur ope ne d fas h ion we e k and dre w th rongs of fur l overs, pol itical move rs and s h ake rs , and mul tipl e counte ss e s .

M e t a -ce le b ri t y C l a i re B row n e n t ice d t h e ca m e ra s w i t h a fa s hi o n a bl e torn -u p -f o r-ju icy-re vel a t i o n s bo s o m regi o n Leopard lady Eva Harlou hosts the M TV Cri bs of Denmark

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V.I.P. VERY IMPORTANT PRINCESSES

C o unte ss C ath C arrington C ol by De ve raux-L acroix s l ips into a ne w fur e ve r y nigh t in front of h e r fi repl ace to s ip a gl ass of re fre s h ing L ie b frau v intage

A da rin g fa s hi o n i s t a wea rs a l l S’ n ob d e N obl e ss e next t o T V- pers o n a l i t y C a m i l l a O t t es en a n d l oudmouth e d o u t f it s-p un d i t J i m Ly n g v i l d i n a DI Y co at made e ntire ly f ro m du s t ba l l s ex cava t ed fro m t he bo t t om of h is s ofa

T h e “ oth e r ” countess, Helle Reed tz Thott

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event s THUR SDAY - JANUARY 31, 2013

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

10 . 0 0- 11.00 Vogue Talents & MUUSE: A talk with S ara Maino Galle ry · Forum · Jul ius T h oms e ns P l ads 1, Fre de rik s b e rg C · by invi tati on only 15 . 0 0- 18 . 00 C rystal Hall Grand O pening C ocktail Party Hosted by The Log Lady C I F F · B e lla C e nt e r · C e nte r Boul e vard 5, C ope nh age n, ope n to al l trade fair vi si tors, blogg ers and press 19.00-00.00 Ganni Fashion Week Get-together H us e t- K B H · Rådh uss træde 13, C ope nh age n K · by inv itation only 23.00-04.00 Asger Juel L arsen After -Party S imons · Store Strands træde 14, C ope nh age n K · by inv itation only 23 . 0 0-04.00 Home vs . Away Soulland After -Show Party Pum p e hus e t · Studie s træde t 52, C ope nh age n V · by inv itation only 21 .30-02.00 B y Malene Birger ’s 10-Y ear C elebration Stæ r e k ass e n · Augus t Bournonv il l e s Pass age , 1060 C ope nh age n K · by i nvi tati on only

For mor e ev e nts and d e tails g o to www. co p e n h a ge nf a shionweek .com

THUR SDAY - JANUARY 31, 2013

COPENHAGEN FASHION festival DAILY EV ENT S S H O P · MACARO O N S W I T H AT T I T U D E · La Glac e S koubogade 3 , Copenhagen K · open to all Fashion in F ilm F e stival · C I N E MAT I C ST Y LE · B irds of Par adis e Co p e nhag e n Edt. lll C inemateket & N ikolaj Art Hall , Copenhagen K · open to all S H O P, 3 0 Jan - 2 F e b · CO M PAN Y S O R I G I NAL - E X T R AVAGAN T C E LE B R AT I O N O F MALE N E B I RGE R F rederiksberggade 2 4 , Copenhagen K · open to all 16 . 0 0- 17 . 00, EXHIBIT ION, C OP ENHAGEN MUSEUM — BL AST FRO M A S ARTORI AL PAS T Ve s te rb rogade 59, C ope nh age n V · ope n to al l 16 . 0 0- 18 .00, SHO P P ING, MUUSE — T HE NEX T BIG NAMES I N FAS HI ON Magasi N · Ground Fl oor, Konge ns Ny tor v 13, C ope nh age n K · op en to all 18 . 0 0- 20 . 00, SHO P P ING, FIL IP PA K & C OV ER — T HE P REVI E W, Filippa K Ny Ø s te rgade 13, C ope nh age n K · ope n to al l 18.00-21.00, BEAUT Y, ZENZ — NAT URAL BEAUT Y NI GHT Ros e nb orggade 8, C ope nh age n K

FO R M O R E EV E N T S AN D D E TAI LS G O TO www. co p e n h a ge nf a shionf estiva l. com

s h ow sCh edu le TH U R S DAY - JA N UA RY 31, 2013

by invitations only

09.00 T EKO · C ity Hall · Rådh us pl ads e n 1, C ope nh agen K 10 .00 Jesper HO Evring · N I M B · Be rns torffs gade 5, C openhag en V 11.00 Stine Goya · D e n F ri e · O s l o P l ads 1, C ope nh ag en OE 12 . 0 0 Asger Juel L arsen · C ity Hall · Rådh us pl ads e n 1, Copenhagen K 13 . 0 0 Bau m und P ferdgarten · C harlott e nborg · Konge ns Nytorv 1 , Copenhagen K 14 . 0 0 V eronica B. Vallenes · N I M B · Be rns torffs gade 5, Copenhagen V

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SHOW SCHEDULE / EVENTS

15.00 V ivienne Westwood · B ørs e n · C ope nh agen K 16 . 0 0 Anne Sofie Madsen · C ity Hall · Rådh us pl ads e n 1, Copenhagen K 17 . 0 0 D esigners Remix · Ja zzhous e · N ie l s He mmings e ns gade 2 4 , Copenhag en K 18 . 0 0 Bruuns Bazaar · C harlott e nborg · Konge ns Ny tor v 1 , Copenhagen K 19.00 Sofifi · B ørs e n · C ope nh age n K 20.00 Barbara i Gongini · B ørs e n · C ope nh agen K 21 . 0 0 By Malene Birger · T h e Royal Danish T h eatr e · Copenhag en K 22.00 Soulland · C ity Hall · Rådh us pl ads e n 1, C ope nhagen K 23 . 0 0 Wood Wood · N ørr e brohalle n · N ørre b rogade 208, Copenhagen N

For mor e ev e nts and show d e tails g o to www. co p e n h a g enf a shionf estiva l.com

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