SPRING SUMMER 2013
dansk daily
proud sponcer of
THURSDAY AUGUST 9TH
TREND
A NEW CLEAN ELEGANCE
LOOK OF THE DAY
INTERVIEW
REVIEWS
SPOT
Peter Jensen sees a future in unisex
MAX FACTOR LOOK OF THE DAY Freya Dalsjö
David Andersen · YDE Wackerhaus · CIFF · Whiite
A TIGHTER, sharper Henrik Vibskov
COVER PHOTO FREYA DALSJÖ BY SIMON B. MØRCH
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EDITORIAL
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A new, clean elegance editorial
Iben Albinus Sabroe EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
“We are headed toward something new,” said Peter Jensen when I got him on the phone from London, where he was adding the finishing touches to his show, due today at Gallery. The internationally-acclaimed Danish designer is not only happy to be back at Copenhagen Fashion Week, he’s excited to detect a new statement in fashion in the wake of the recession. It’s a wish for a new, classic elegance, one that is defined by lasting quality, says Peter Jensen, whose own tribute to the trend is a series of collections inspired by the late 1960s, an era when men and women shared the same sense of a laid back, jazzy chic, informed by gender blender icons Mick Jagger and Marianne Faithful. The designer always chooses a classy muse for his womenswear collections, and this year’s Tippi Hedren is no exception.
Peter Jensen’s focus is on the materials, as seen in his new woolen pencil skirts and jackets. He’s thereby perfectly in tune with the trends spotted during Copenhagen Fashion Week’s first day.
While the recession seems to have made established designers prone to rediscovering their DNA, a new era is ushering with bold, irreverent newcomers like Freya Dalsjö.
Frederikke Hviid’s new collection for Whiite is a gorgeous take on a sharp silhouette, determined by simple yet luxurious items such as an all-grey jersey gown, channeling the 1930s. Her amazing prints also showed a delicate emphasis on fabrics.
Teaming up with Anne Sofie Madsen and the Tabernacle Twins in what looks like a welcome rebellion against the stylish, but always wearable, so-called Danish bicycle chic, Freya Dalsjö yesterday showed an extravagant collection of creamy whites worthy of a true diva.
Likewise, Henrik Vibskov’s show bore testament to the apparent tendency of material being king this season. Having downplayed his predilection for crazy circus-inspired designs, he presented a cleaner look that beautifully underlined details like perforated patterns on several styles.
Who knows where these new currents will take the creative forces of the fashion world? I can’t wait to find out. Have a great week!
CONTRIBUTORS PUBLISHERS DANSK Magazine & Copenhagen Fashion Week EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Iben Albinus Sabroe CREATIVE EDITOR / PROJECT COORDINATOR Rozanna Fritz ART DIRECTION / GRAPHIC DESIGN Marco Pedrollo, Kasper Fjederholt, Mikkel M. Andersen · IRONFLAG SUB-EDITOR Magnus Jorem EXECUTIVE EDITOR Anne Christine Persson BEAUTY EDITOR Bea Fagerholt EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Rikke Charlotte Larsen
WRITERS Carla Christine Bruus Strube, Elsebeth Mouritzen Moussa Mchangama, Lotte Freddie Rikke Dyrholm, Sille Henning PHOTOGRAPHERS Simon B. Mørch, Mathilde Schmidt Maiken Høst Hansen, Copenhagen Fashion Week Fashionforum.dk Naja Helene Hertzum, Moussa Mchangama Monica Senker Holbech Sales Representative Jens Løkke DISTRIBUTION Cath Møss, Charlotte Mørch, Julie Christine Kühne PRINT Berlingske Avistryk
BY MALENE BIRGER SHOWROOM RAHBEKS ALLÉ 21 FREDERIKSBERG - 8-11 AUGUST 2012 BYMALENEBIRGER.COM
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And the winners (once again) are… Baum und Pferdgarten wins this year’s Guldknappen, a prize awarded by Danish lifestyle magazine Alt For Damerne. While it’s not the first time the dynamic duo runs with the first prize – they received the honor in 2000 as well – Line Hindsgaul, the head of the jury and Alt For Damerne’s fashion editor, says: “Baum und Pferdgarten’s collections are sharper than ever.” The prize for up-and-coming fashion labels, Sølvtråden, goes to Ganni, designed by Ditte Reffstrup and Katrine Green
Insi d e C o p e n h agen Mia Castenskjold. Briefly back from her base in London, where she lectures at Central St. Martins, Mia Castenskjold, the creative consultant for Gaia and Tabernacle Twins as well as Art Museum Arken’s fashion exhibition India today - Copenhagen tomorrow, shares her tips on how to enjoy Copenhagen. What’s not to miss in Copenhagen?
News provided by Fashionforum.dk
I really love a lot of the art museums around Copenhagen. I always make sure to spend time at Charlottenborg and Statens Museum for Kunst whenever I’m back. Where’s the best place to go for dinner? Falernum at Værnedamsvej. It’s always good with a glass of wine when you enjoy your dinner. You can also frequently find me at Bibendum in Nansensgade or L’education Nationale in Larsbjørnsstræde for some French memories. Where is your favorite spot in the city in the summer? My summers are often enjoyed outside the city. But when I’m here for work, morning coffee places like coffee shop Ricco’s are great spots.
How fast can you go? On Friday at 17.30, a 100-meter sprint battle in stilettos goes down on Amagertorv on pedestrian shopping street Strøget, when Copenhagen Fashion Festival and Veet for the second time during fashion week host Veet Stiletto Race. It’s a fierce competition for amazing prizes that only the toughest stilettoista can win. 13:73 seconds was last year’s winning time, but if you think you can do better, sign up prior to the race online. You can also just stop by to watch the fastest high-heeled wonder win! Sign up at www.veet.dk/veet-stilet.php YOU’RE AN ICON
mon k i. c om
N O 08
M o n k i — t h e ma g Like a goodie bag of inspiration, Monki Magazine gives you cues to be playful, independent and simply adorable. The upcoming issue focuses on fashion role models. Because we can all do with a hero… or two or three. Monki Magazine gives you a thousand reasons to treasure life and decide who you want to be every day. With personalities that inspire you to discover what this funny thing called life has in store for you, this new issue introduces amazing people who could be (or already are) your heroes. Psst: Monki is throwing a sneak- peek party for the issue launch on September 12 in Copenhagen in the Monki shop. www.monki.com
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PRODUCT OF THE DA Y by Max Factor Some women would bring it to a desert island – some never leave the house without it. No doubt mascara is one of the most vital beauty products for women. The iconic 2000 Calorie Mascara obviously cracked the code decades ago and proved its perfection. That’s why we celebrate the 20th anniversary of a long-lasting unique patented formula that creates
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Danish fashion writer Chris Pedersen sure has been around the block. Currently working as managing editor of Cover magazine, he’s previously acted as fashion director at Euroman, contributing editor at DANSK Magazine, editor-in-chief of Dansk Daily and as a writer for Politiken, Nylon and Eurowoman, among other publications. This fall, he’s the center of attention when the documentary series Diary of a Fashion Editor (DA: Moderedaktørens Dagbog) premieres on DRK. Directed by Jon Adelsten, it follows his work at fashion events all over the world, exploring themes like modern luxury, flagship stores, the perfume industry and more. “We’re trying to show the passion, economics, creativity and ambitions behind the scenes,” Chris Pedersen explains. “But it’s also quite an intimate portrait of my everyday life. So expect a bit of fun as well.” Moderedaktørens Dagbog premieres at DRK in the beginning of November.
Creative e d it o r Ro z an n a loves THE A W 2 0 1 2 COLLECTI ON FROM KENZO www.kenzo.com
Crème d e l a c r è me Looking for Danish fashion’s crème de la crème? Well look no further — you can find them all gathered in one place this Friday. DANSK Magazine is behind the new concept DANSK Collective, which will host a big brunch for the national and international press Friday during Copenhagen Fashion Week. DANSK Collective embraces some of the coolest and most innovative Danish brands, brands that DANSK Magazine wants to highlight for the international press. This time around, DANSK Collective will house a display of next season’s key items from a dozen Danish fashion- and accessory labels.
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D A NSK M A G A Z INE # 2 8 OUT NOW
I T’ S al iv e an d k ic k in g FashionForum is the Danish fashion business news site. FashionForum provides numerous daily updates on news reports, finance, retail, fresh concepts and brands in Danish fashion. The job section of FashionForum is the go-to place for the best ads listing in Denmark when it comes to fashion. Each month, the job portal is viewed more than 100,000 times by fashion folk seeking a new career, making FashionForum the ultimate source for both advertisers and job-seekers. Also, FashionForum just had a major facelift with a totally new design. Check it out for yourself on www.FashionForum.dk
E XECUT I VE EDI TOR Anne loves A n n e S o f i e Madsen Anne Sofie Madsen’s ability to create these magical universes each season is uncanny — she takes you on an imaginary ride with Japanese warrior princesses, skeletons and Inuit goddesses. I can’t wait to see what’s in store for us for her SS13 collection. www.annesofiemadsen.dk
Gleam y t e am - u p Trine Tuxen is the owner and designer behind the label Trine Tuxen Jewelry. She started working out of her living room workspace, but immense success has expanded the label faster than she could have dreamt of, with international demand for her pieces growing day by day. For Copenhagen Fashion Week, she is collaborating with fashion designer Stine Goya, creating the showpieces for her runway show on August 9. The designs are graphic, minimalistic and feminine. Tuxen is fascinated by the contrast between gravity and magnitude, and she strives to challenge the materials’ simplicity. All of the jewelry is handmade of silver, and most pieces are also gilded in 24 karat gold. Trine Tuxen Jewelry can be purchased in Collage in Illum, Copenhagen. www.trinetuxenjewlery.com
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Copenhagen Fa s h i o n F e s t ival open to all Open to all, Copenhagen Fashion Festival welcomes locals and tourists, men and woman to explore the array of open events that the festival has to offer in the shops and streets of Copenhagen. Indulge in discounts and goodie bags, attend shows and exhibitions, or party your heels off — all during Copenhagen Fashion Festival, August 8-12. Go to www.copenhagenfashionfestival.com for more details, an event schedule and the latest updates.
BOM B it u p ! Dansk Daily’s staff are in love with the new Wood Wood bomber quilted jacket. Stop by the Wood Wood Store in Copenhagen and get it on for the fall. Wood Wood, at Grønnegade 1, 1107 Copenhagen
BIG AIR Named by Nike as one of its greatest basketball sneaks of the past 20 years, the Air More Uptempo is back. Seen earlier in a Dream Team throwback, these more aggressive sneakers aren’t going to play by the rules. Nikeinc.com
COM PETI TI ON Win an amazing goodie bag from Max Factor that contains a beauty kit with all the products for today’s Day Birger et Mikkelsen look: Xperience Weightless Foundation, Smoky Eye Effect (Onyx), Trio Eye Shadow (Precious Metal), False Lash Effect Fusion Mascara, Xperience Sheer Gloss Balm (Coral), Glossfinity nr. 55 Angel nails and more. Check out how to enter at www.danskdaily.dk
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ED I TOR ’ S P I CK OF THE D A Y Frederikke Hviid’s new collection for Whiite proved a beautiful surprise with its luxurious prints and cool feminine silhouette. My new favourite!
Th e I n d ia n Wa y India is making its mark these years — and not just in GDP growth. The Indian fashion scene is also experiencing a global breakthrough. Fortunately, you won’t need a ticket to Delhi to
H yb r i d c a r w ith bite
enjoy its attractions and see how young Indian designers rework their country’s ancient traditions with refined style experiments. From August 18, 2012, to January 13, 2013, the art museum
The Dansk Daily team is travelling between shows
Arken in Ishøj runs the exhibition India : Fashion Now. You can
and events in style this fashion week, in a leopard
also check out samples from the exhibition at the concept store
pattern-decorated Opel hybrid car. Growl!
Storm in Store Regnegade. www.arken.dk
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7/31/12 10:18 AM
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NYT KØRETØJ? En unik bil fortjener en unik introduktion. Derfor blev Citroën DS5 i Danmark lanceret med en designkonkurrence for fem nyskabende danske tøjdesignere. Konkurrencen hed Design5, og udfordringen var at designe et sæt tøj, der matcher bilens markante formsprog og interiør. At Citroën DS5 er en inspirerende bil, fremgik tydeligt af de fem kreationer på cat- og carwalken i det store finaleshow, hvor Vibe Lundemark med mærket “Tabernacle Twins” vandt. Citroën Danmark siger stor tak til de deltagende tøjdesignere og alle, der var med til at gøre danmarkspremieren på Citroën DS5 til en enestående begivenhed.
SE MERE OM DESIGN5-KONKURRENCEN, BOOK EN PRØVETUR OG VIND EN IPAD PÅ BLOG.DS5.DK Citroën DS5 og de fem kreationer kan ses i VISION, Lokomotivværkstedet, Otto Busses Vej 5A, 2450 Kbh. SV i forbindelse med Copenhagen Fashion Week.
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SPON DIOGO
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Tippi Hedren and the future of unisex words: Iben albinus sabroe
London-based Danish designer Peter Jensen is back in Copenhagen with a show that celebrates Hitchcock’s heroine and experiments with unisex, his bid for fashion’s way out of the crisis.
photo: TIM GUTT
thigh, thereby adding Jensen’s edgy sense of humor. Another Jensenesque twist is a hugely oversized girly leather schoolbag carried with a striped blue spring coat.
Tippi Hedren may have been harassed by Alfred Hitchcock during the shooting of his psychological thriller Marnie, but if you ask Peter Jensen, she sure did look great under pressure. He has made a muse of the blond Hollywood star for his resort collection, which he will present today. The London-based designer is finally back with a show in Copenhagen after adventures in Seoul and Tokyo for the past couple of seasons. ”I like the change of scenery, I find it inspiring. And I’m looking forward to having the show in Denmark, where we have a fanbase, or what do you call it, of wonderful people. That means a lot to us,” says Peter Jensen, who speaks in plural, not because he mistakes himself for royalty, but because he doesn’t like to take the credit for the success of his brand, which has been brought to life because of teamwork. Since his last Danish show, Peter Jensen’s designs have been displayed in exhibitions at The Victoria & Albert in London, The Museum of Modern Art in South Korea, and in a group show entitled Reconstruction with the likes of Hussein Chalayan and Vivienne Westwood. For this season’s Copenhagen Fashion Week, the internationally acclaimed designer will present a mixture of two collections, the menswear collection S/S 2012, inspired by Mick Jagger, and his so-called resort collection 2013. Meanwhile, his womenswear S/S 2013 will be presented during London Fashion Week. This means the Danishborn designer is rather busy for the time being, but he doesn’t seem to mind all that much: ”They’re really making us work here in England,
where they seem to invent ever more seasons. We do pre-fall collections and resort collections, in addition to the others.” Originally reserved for big players like Chanel, who cater to an international jet-set seemingly always in need of glamorous summer clothes, resort collections are now becoming a must for more and more designers and brands. ”But the thing is, the resort collection comes out in November and lasts till June before it goes on sale, and that is of course a huge advantage in a time when sales begin practically a few months after a new collection is in stores,” says Peter Jensen. One good thing to emerge from the financial crisis, he feels, is the trend of consumers looking to spend on lasting quality. And what could be more classical than to look back to the legendary work of Edith Head, who did most of the designs for Hitchcock’s heroines, including Tippi Hedren’s famous green outfit in The Birds? Entitled ”Tippi,” Peter Jensen’s resort collection displays a wide variety of interpretations of the starlet’s style, such as a three-piece pink suit with a cardigan, blouse and pencil skirt. Only the pencil skirt has been cut to show some
So, how does Mick Jagger fit into the picture? Peter Jensen’s other muse for his menswear collection is the lead singer of The Rolling Stones, and he has more in common with Tippi Hedren than you’d think, he says. ”I have been looking at pictures of Mick Jagger from the beginning of the 1960s, when he used to hang out with Marianne Faithful and that lot. There is one where he’s dressed in a white shirt, black tie and wearing corduroy pants and jazzy shoes. It’s actually a very feminine kind of chic. At least, I find it very chic,” says Peter Jensen. ”As with Tippi, in a way it’s a very clean look. It’s also based on a gender play, which is equally chic.The idea behind the show is to display a certain unisex trend, which I think is very timely. I’m thinking of letting the female models wear the men’s clothes and vice versa, as a way to promote a new unisex style,” says the designer, who has seen the same trend in Prada’s designs, and admired it. “To me it is a beautiful way of experimenting with looks while still keeping to a classical, lasting, high-quality design,” says Peter Jensen. ”I am not encouraging men to wear skirts, but a woman could easily wear the clothes Mick Jagger inhabits within this particular time frame.” So a new way to save could be for men and women to share clothes? ”Why not,” Peter Jensen laughs: ”It may be a new way to celebrate less is more.”
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“ W hat could be m ore classical than to look back to the legendary work of Edith Head, who did most of the designs for Hitchcock’s heroines, including Tippi Hedren’s fam ous green outfit in The B irds?”
photo: TIM GUTT
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FREYA DALSJÖ
Dramatic emergence Expectations were high when 22-year-old designer Freya Dalsjö officially opened Copenhagen Fashion Week with her second collection.
Dressed in slinky, high-waisted white pants, a short white feather jacket, and a reworked cap, the Danish top model Josephine Skriver opened the show. Silhouettes were sharp, shoulders bold and materials rich, playfully mixed and giving the collection an avant-garde feel.
words: Sille Henning photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
Feminine silk and light feathers juxtaposed against soft leather and tough latex were key elements in this collection, in which shoulders provided another focal point — whether they were sculptured with striking features or bold, through biker-inspired quilting. There were slim dresses with cut-out details at the shoulders, wide-legged pants, skater-inspired skirts mixed with tight tops, high-waisted cropped pants and short jackets. Amongst the favorites were a short leather jacket with quilted sleeves and details in turquoise python.
Colors were kept in a subdued palette – opening with models dressed all in white, continuing over crème mixed with bordeaux, dark green, and navy, and closing with top model Caroline Brasch Nielsen dressed in black, underlining the strong and self-reliant woman that the designer herself is emerging as. All in all, a powerful and captivating collection that firmly establishes Freya Dalsjö as one to watch in seasons to come.
pilgrim.dk / find nearest retailer at pilgrim.dk/stores
08-08-2012 10:06:56
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WACKERHAUS Whispers in the garden Since Wackerhaus succeeded in receiving the Max Factor New Talent Award in 2010, high expectations have followed the rising brand. Expectations can be good — if they are reasonable and met. The new collection from Wackerhaus is both consistent and innovative in its ideas, but not as solid as her previous offerings. Nevertheless, the collection appeared inspiring by mixing daily-wear with dress-up, featuring relaxed silhouettes in light materials, long dresses with feminine wrestler backs, loosely fitted jackets, and jogging-inspired pants and shorts combined with graphic blends and asymmetric, loosely draped garments Once again, Wackerhaus managed to compose a beautifully balanced color palette of complementing hues,
words: Rikke Dyrholm photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
slightly muted in light pistachio greens, powdered pinks, warm golden tones, silvers, whites and deep blacks, adding a delicate calming touch to the contrasting materials jersey, cottons, silk and wool. The look balanced between feminine and casually elegant features, revealing fine details like playful patterns, light tops in delicate textures and golden jewelry covering the models’ hands. It appears that Wackerhaus is moving away from the sharp tailoring and slim-fitting silhouettes that have become her signature, which may disappoint her fans. Apart from the weight of prior expectations, the collection left an overall impression of wearability and refreshing playfulness.
S P R I N G 2 013 V i s i t u s at t h e n e w C i F F Fa s h i o n Fa i r , s ta n d C1 - 0 0 9, au g u s t 9 -12 t h 2 012 F o r F u r t h e r d e ta i l s C a l l +4 5 2 9 74 16 8 3
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David Andersen
Futuristic tailor boy Wednesday evening, David Andersen showcased a welcome comeback for his tailored signature style in TAP2’s grand show venue. This manifested itself in a fitted silhouette that tightened Andersen’s liquid version of the layered look.
Washed silk, leather, twill, and heavy jersey appeared in the characteristic DA colors black, black, black, light grey, a dash of blue, faded green and a distorted black/grey/white print. Asymmetric zippers and linings, slit up sleeves on dresses, cardigans (among them the bestseller
words: Carla Christine Bruus Strube photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
with a diagonal closure), suits with leather revers and slim pencil skirts. In particular, a men’s set with a quilted vest over a grey suit jacket and leather shorts were remarkably cool. A futuristic theme with (very explicit) Blade Runner references made the show surprisingly gloomy for a summer presentation — showing a little more skin would have emphasized the glamorous sexiness the styles actually embody. As part of the show were pieces from David Andersen’s
new sub line ‘Zero-Waste’, an interesting addition to the ongoing debate on sustainable fashion. Already a long-time user of organic cotton, Andersen creates these items with zero fabric waste, a pretty rare phenomenon in the fashion industry. Furthermore, this process stresses a complicated construction that triggers some pretty great design — and a good conscience. David Andersen is still a young brand, but the DNA is strong and seems, for this season, to have rediscovered its core string — the tailored fit.
matinique.com
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St ylein Easy breezy
words: Sille Henning photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
Yesterday, the Swedish label Stylein presented their Spring/Summer 2013 collection — a simple yet feminine collection. The silhouettes were loose and easy, the materials soft, conveying early summer days by the sea, with mini shorts mixed with a short-sleeved angora knit, a kaleidoscope-printed playsuit, and wide trousers with a cropped top. There were slim pant suits and summerly shorts suits, halterneck
tops flashing bare backs, and long dresses spiced up with high slits and plunging necklines, adding a contemporary edge to the expression — though some of the necklines seemed a bit difficult to pull off. The color palette was douce with subtle pastels, white and navy coming along as feminine and easily wearable, underlining the collection’s feminine lines and simple details.
WHIITE Concept Store
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1114 Copenhagen K
Contact P: +45 55 56 40 75
whiite@whiite.com
8/7/2012 3:32:38 PM
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YDE Diva dresses with a history
words: Lotte Freddie photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
I’d kill for an Ole Yde dress, declares my friend Emma, 17.
first time they have been open to anyone outside the iconic 108-year-old firm.
This is Ole Yde’s genius: He designs dresses that both young and older women find are “to die for.”
Some of the dresses were adorned with vintage jewelry, setting off the 2013 summer designs worn by pale, blonde models with long, curly Rita Hayworth hair, and showing a decidedly younger look from this designer. Very short peplum dresses and simple dresses with a frill going down one side or sleeve — in nude or black plus lovely purple, raspberry and coral — were perfect and becoming seductive day or party outfits.
In an historic old courtyard, le tout Copenhague, with Princess Marie seated on the first row alo n gs ide i nter n at io n a l jo u r n a l i s ts, co u ld – contrary to some uninteresting earlier shows – experience why Danish fashion is worth talking about. The young couturier, whose muses include Maria Callas, Audrey Hepburn and Marie Antoinette, was for the new collection inspired by Hitchcock star Tippi Hedren and his visit to the Georg Jensen’s silversmith archives, the
Navy was used unusually in a blouse with yellow sleeves and shoulders, and as masterly cut satin trousers put to a raspberry metallic organza blouse.
YDE’s craftsmanship in top quality materials shone in every dress: Narrow pleats, cut on the bias or vertical, were beautifully executed in skirts and blouses. Lightly sprinkled mother of pearl sequins, beautifully enhanced white twenties chiffon dresses, and tiny appliquéd colored flowers danced on white organza dresses. And stunning red carpet dresses in draped white lurex or strong green/purple/pink/yellow fabulous flowers provided other examples of the Danish luxury glamor couture, which will be introduced to Paris in September. Denmark is too small for such luxury, and Colette, Neiman Marcus and Lane Crawford are already lined up for Danish diva dresses with a cultural edge.
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CIFF KIDS
Childhood memories
words: Elsebeth Mouritzen photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
Isn’t this how we all would like our kids to remember their childhoods: carefree and hopscotching, hair flying and clothes effortlessly worn?
That was the message from Danish magazine Cover Kids and CIFF KIDS at Bella Center, which managed to pull it off for the second time around with a modern take on a trend show for the juniors. While the ideal in some markets may be dressy, chic offspring, their collaboration once again proved that the preferred look on Scandinavian latitudes is that of practical and fun clothes accessorized with lots of personal charm. Oddly enough, the inspiration for the four themes came from overseas destinations like
the South American jungle, the American prairie, the English countryside and the California coast, but they all translated well to our local lifestyle in the rugged, cute and cool styling that resembled the trends for the grown-ups, though looking as if the kids had pulled the clothes out of drawers themselves. You can argue how much fashion changes from season to season for kids, and the real news, not only for the next season, but also for the coming generations, actually lies in the unseen. The fact that more and more brands value sustainability and product origin to accommodate the demand from concerned parents has given way to more organic clothes at CIFF Kids. And that, surely, is how you create fond memories in the long run.
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THIS SUMMERS TENDENCIES IN THE WORLD OF FASHION “Behind the scenes at Fashion Week the trend is clear – colours, colours and more colours. The tendency for nails is short to medium length, filed round at the edges and painted in colour-rich high-gloss shades. And preferably matched to fresh colours on the lips to create a colour storm on the catwalk. With both Flipsticks and Glossfinitys wonderful spectrum of colours, it’s only a matter of being creative, bringing out your inner make-up artist and throwing yourself into the colours of summer!”
FLIP, MIX AND MATCH YOUR SUMMER LOOK! Fresh, visible colours are back on the fashion scene, but with the addition of your own personal twist. Flipstick from Max Factor is a 3-in-1 lipstick with a rich, full shade in one end and a brighter, complementary shade in the other. Use the shades separately or mix them into your very own third shade – or how about creating halftones to enhance your lips?
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7/6/12 1:13 PM
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HENRIK VIBSKOV
A sharp tongue
words: Moussa Mchangama photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
Vibskov always manages to surprise. This time, though, the installation was directly connected to the invitations and the title. With the show named The Transparent Tongue and the invitation showing two pink circles with black dots, that was exactly what was on the runway late Wednesday evening. A giant pink tongue – with black dots – served as the backdrop, while the cast of all-black models walked on a clean, white runway. The dots transferred to the clothes, with pretty pieces perforated with circles, while both the knitwear and prints clearly bore Vibskov’s signature.
It’s business as usual at Vibskov’s, with a mix of playfulness, bold colors, black/white, oversize pieces, fun blazers and suits and a new, more rounded shape – and with the same prints and colors recurring for both men and women. White elastics used as headbands and on the shoes were meant to resemble the strand of tissue underneath our tongues, and though the styling still contained chairs turned into bags and whatnot, the overall look was more clean and crisp; no funny glasses, no pieces to obstruct one’s view of the clothes from the front, and a perfectly smooth runway. That suited the clothes. Really well.
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CIFF TREND SHOW Time travel
words: Elsebeth Mouritzen photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
Opening a commercial trend show with a fleshcolored, body-hugging net dress decorated with a fluorescent pink patent bone structure design from Anne Sofie Madsen may not have massmarket appeal, but it struck an important chord.
The preeminent role of the CIFF trend show is to serve as tastemakers, to give us a clue as to what will be in store next (literally). The dress kicked off the colorful theme of Digital, a nostalgic trip back to the 90s, when rap and the internet were young, and when fashion was bright and colorful. This travel in time continued into the near future with Shape Shifters, in which
clothes, slightly oversized, were enveloped, wrapped and draped in solid-colored whites and modern pastels like nude, blush and lilac. A cacophony of patterns can turn out ugly, but in the hands of styling team Fashion Exclusive, the interpretation of the 70s-inspired Glitterati-theme turned out dignified, no color clash in sight. The journey back in time stopped with the Settlers theme, inspired by American pioneers with Amish-like hats and dark suits, and floral and lacy dresses and pantsuits. Remove the hat and it’s a regular suit, but point taken. Commercial or not.
Visit us at VISION LokomotivvĂŚrkstedet stand L352 9 -11 august 2012
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WHIITE Whiff of nature in the parking lot True to the brand’s DNA, Whiite’s Wednesday show displayed a coherent and functional collection with feminine features and sharp tailoring — carried out in a laid-back elegance. Located in an underground parking lot on Copenhagen’s east side, adding rawness to the collection’s femininity, everything else seemed to balance in contradiction as well. Featuring precise silhouettes, the colors balanced sharpness with delicate powdery hues, softly fading in variations of peach, light-brown, sea-blue, mint-green and yellow. The collection reached profoundness in a relaxed, stylish feel, sporting light delicate materials like see-through silk, cotton and knit, combined with details like color-blocking and prints with a nature inspiration — from the sea, flowers and wind.
words: Rikke Dyrholm photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
With its focus on styles like floaty dresses with waistlines, shirts in delicate or transparent materials, tailored cotton pants casually folded at the bottom, tunics and soft cotton t-shirts with drop-necks, the collection met the desires of modern women and appeared wearable in their transition between work, socializing, and summer vacationing. The mix of soft materials and dusty colors with elegant twists complemented the crisp silhouettes. Whiite manages to balance pointed shapes and twists with tender features, presenting a perfectly tailored, wearable and, somehow timeless, collection. A good contribution to modern daily wear for women.
A mAgert orv 10 · 1160 K øb en h Av n K · tel ef o n 33 14 19 41 · w w w. i l l u m s bo l i g hu s . d K mAndAg – torsdAg 10 – 18 · fredAg 10 – 19 · lørdAg 10 – 18
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JewlsCph Ballerina · rock chic · señorita Danish jewelry designer Mai Manniche of JewlsCph presented her new collection Wednesday morning, and had managed to fill the cool art space Nicolai Church with a suitable entourage of beglittered celebs. With a focus on precious stones and hammered silver and gold, the collection addressed the various (and, let’s be frank, stereotype) sides of the female personality: The ballerina (the show opened with a white, tulle-dressed ballerina, dramatically conquering the runway) introducing models in nude-colored dresses featuring neat updates of JewlsCph’s signature gold leaf-earrings, delicate rosa quarts with thin gold framing and wide
words: Carla Christine Bruus Strube photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
gold bangles. The glam girl/rock chic balancing between high heels and heavy boots showing modern, black silver, green onyx and moon stones were accompanied by two dancers in black, sequined catsuits, and last, the flamboyant señorita, indicating a shift to drooping, red rubies. Although Manniche’s enterprise is sympathetic (she’s a real DIY-girl, often engaging her brand in charity projects), it seems that her high ambitions sometimes blur what should be her focus: the jewelry. A little less dance and red roses and higher-quality dresses would heighten the overall impression and emphasize the elegance of the stones, their cuttings and the simple designs.
Autumn / Winter 2012 / 2013 Addicted to jewellery
www.K-Z.dk
Medina
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Margrethe skolen A bowlful of newcomers
Wednesday morning, Margrethe-skolen opened Copenhagen Fashion Week with a graduate show of 18 independent debut fashion designers. The 18 presented a broad perception in themes – everything from a Nordic sensibility, a French tale, a Brazil feel, to a Southern, somewhat safari look – forging a stylistic inconsistency. However, this lack of overall coherence made it easier to distinguish between the 18 designers, and some of them unveiled roughly impressive designs with great potential. Their lack of longtime experience in fitting and cut made the fitting appear a bit random, some with more success than others. Standouts included
words: RIKKE DYRHOLM photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
an elegant long grey silk dress with a red belt in the waist, a green cape with fur shoulders and a black vest with a flower-inspired collar attached. Unsurprisingly for a graduate show, it was short on original ideas, which is rather difficult today, but an ongoing theme was different versions of 70s-inspired printed cotton and a varied, imaginative use of transparent materials, adding an impression of artsiness. Overall, the Margrethe-skolen grads provided a good show. Positively sporting great ideas and potential in general, with a couple of new-thinkers as standouts.
GALLERY
STAND 260 1. FLOOR
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Stine Ladefoged Soft Amazon warriors
words: Carla Christine Bruus Strube photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
Stine Ladefoged is one of Denmark’s newer designers, and has taken on the challenging task of renewing herself within her defined specialty: Knitwear.
For her SS13 collection, she continued her signature style of complicated and almost chainmail-looking knit constructions, spun in a light cotton yarn suitable for summer. Colors were summerish: Light grey, pastel turquoise, beige, yellow and a dash of midnight blue. In a few places, leather details contrasted with the soft slouchiness of the materials and played
up against the Amazon warrior look that the models carried out with teased hair and dark eyes. Even though the more entangled pieces, often with racer backs and advanced shoulder and chest decorations, command respect, the more wearable ones like the drapy, oversize cardigan with a braided hem, a black and white-patterned skirt and a tight, blue dress with cutout details worked the best. Here, Ladefoged, struck a great balance between her complex brand identity and a more commercial style.
To view the collection SS13 please visit us at the below fairs or contact one of our agents:
White, Milano 22nd – 24th of September 2012 Premiere Classe, Jardin de Tuileries, Paris 28th of September – 1st of October 2012 Belgium: Denmark: Germany: Italy (south): Netherlands: Norway: Worldwide:
Studio C +32 2 363 99 89 Dorte Boe +45 22928607 Modeagentur Nikolic +49 211 454 1580 Spazio F +39 081 19561921 or +39 392 9589290 Coster Agenturen +31 650 521378 Holtex +47 90968266 Charlotte Sparre +45 45894040
www.charlottesparre.com
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FRITURE The big easy
words: Elsebeth Mouritzen photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
There’s nothing sticky about the Friture label. On the contrary, it stands for the clean and simple lines that define the minimalist aesthetic of the 90s, which is sweeping into the fashion scene at the moment. Newly established, Norwegian fashion designer Vigdis Johnsen and Danish graphic designer Mads Svindt have slowly evolved their brand from conceptual collections aimed at the catwalk and art scene to a more ready-to-wear style, and they proved this bold move with a small collection at the Gallery venue. These are clothes for an active demographic, but also those who leisurely spend their time relaxing
on the couch. A lot of the design took its cues from jogging clothes, with soft jersey shorts and sweatpants. A favorite was a simple long dress in the softest grey knit topped with a collarless, slightly oversize cotton jacket with big sleeves. A cropped top put the focus on another nice feature, patch pockets on big cotton shorts and jackets. Throughout the collection, Friture showed a soft fabric with a burned-out effect, making it transparent and striped in white. Besides the use of this material in obvious sporty design, they also featured it tongue-in-cheek as the final — bridal — dress with a racerback top and a train on the otherwise knee-length skirt.
AAGAARD byaagaard.com
A WORLD OF
JEWELLERY AUTUMN / WINTER 2012
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Yasamin Zafar
Promising prints
words: Elsebeth Mouritzen photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week
Though her label is only a year old, there’s already a buzz around Yasamin Zafar in the Danish fashion community. Everyone was in awe at her debut collection, inspired by tribal design in the Far East, and Danish celebrities like pop singer Aura have taken her designs to heart.
The show at Gallery yesterday revealed a more subdued collection by the textile designer, a graduate of The Royal Danish School of Design; the first couple of entries were a delight with flowing chiffon dresses, pants and tops in a feminine camouflage-like print in desert colors.
Layers of textured, knitted tops and graphic black-and-white-printed jumpers and dresses in the finest yarn demonstrated the designer’s ability to make ready-to-wear, while her attempt at creating minimalistic design in a suede-like fabric in bicycle pants, a spencer-style dress and t-shirt seemed a bit bland. However, her use of eelskin for belts and oversize bags could just be the accessories that would spruce up this simplicity — but prints are definitely Zafar’s strongest asset.
art direction of dansk daily
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V.I.P. VERY IMPORTANT PRINCESSES
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The mysterious Yael from Wonhundred giving her best Mona Lisa frown.
Die-hard fashionistas getting their only source of vitamins.
Playful television personality Felix Smith shocked the fashion world with his edgy attire.
Deeply concentrated DJ Esben Nymåne presses the cue button and doesn’t give a flying fuck on a rolling donut about cameras.
Soulland-designer Silas Adler randomly passed through on his bike. I don’t know much about vitamins, but my hair looks fierce.
Vitamin water at vess
words: magnus jorem photo: Maiken Hansen
VITAMIN water at vess
Having hosted a Facebook-based t-shirt design competition, Vitamin Water presented the fierce winning designs Friday before fashion week.
Very’s Thomas and Alexandra flanking deceptively cheerful blogger-socialite Fiona Pain. TrinesWardrobe’s main woman (Trine) and parts of her wardrobe. Blogger-royalty Elise and Stephanie of fashion bible Anywho are all about Poodle-Couture this season.
The mustached stud known only as Smukke Mads represented A Question Of and charmed the panties off half the blogger-gals. The view enjoyed by the event’s real-life human mannequins.
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Piggy-tailed TV personality Malena Belafonte opted for sashaying down the front row instead of dancing with the stars. Styling editor of Eurowoman Gertrud Bønnelykke sporting her signature luscious lace attire.
Stylist Liv Barfoed awed and surprised the fashion world with a new hair-do.
Freya’s former assistant, Marie Lea Lund, channeled Princess Leia-meets-Yulia Tymoshenko. ELLE’s fashion assistants may not be gangstah, but they’ve got enough bad-ass street style to conquer Copenhagen’s über-dangerous underground.
Fashion magazine IN showed up in force with fashion editor Louise Amstrup + assistant, and editor-in-chief Anne Absalonsen, formerly the boss of this publication.
Freya Dalsjö front row
words: magnus jorem photo: Maiken Hansen
Freya Dalsjö front row
Rising star Freya Dalsjö officially kicked off Copenhagen Fashion Week Wednesday with her second collection / runway debut in front of political power-players and Princess Leia look-a-likes.
Television’s queen of frugality / socialist politician Mette Reissmann meets the CEO of Danish fashion consumption (and CFW), Eva Kruse.
This YouHeShe duo is always on the look-out for new, edgy attire to sell to fashion-conscious consumers online.
Denmark’s Minister of Economic Affairs Margrethe Vestager plans on sporting Freya Dalsjö’s designs for next season’s parliamentary opening ceremony.
Top looks of the blogosphere this season: Sexy secretary-ista, Katie Holmesanista, Urban Pocahontanista, Scarlet death.
The always-cheeky Sidsel Alling, fashion editor of Soundvenue, in no-nonsense I-will-cut-you garb.
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Model Rose Hermansen smirks at being the sole connoisseur of Cruella DeVille chic this season.
Wood Wood’s Andrea absolutely kills it with a brown oversize grandpa-chic coat over DIY blouse constructed from her great grandmother’s kitchen curtains.
Ever in the company of socialites, millionaires, heiresses and super-models (like Veneda here), DANSK’s Moussa Mchangama unequivocally leads Copenhagen’s most fabulous lifestyle.
Stine Kinch & Frede of Frede’s blog have one-too-many photographers to pose at.
Blogger Semira Dedic in sexy boyfriend knits, gorgeous Wella hair and an expression that says “duck face is so last season.”
Wood Wood & Kenzo
Couturekulturen’s Laura Tønder stares into the abyss of people who don’t partake in couture culture. words: magnus jorem photo: Maiken Hansen
Wood Wood & Kenzo
To celebrate the introduction of Kenzo products in Copenhagen’s Wood Wood Flagship store, the two labels joined forces for a Wednesday afternoon event.
As with most fashion collections, Drapers Magazine’s duo featured a juxtaposition between black and color, male and female, happy and sad (very sad).
The eternally sad and dreadfully bored Mads Jonassen, creative director of Starfighters, formerly known as “mister force of nature”.
Wood Wood sales assistant Ida Bodnier in all-black abbatoir-chic slaughterhouse garb.
Model Nikoline uses her piercing eyes to hypnotize casting agents worldwide Having endlessly hunted faces for seasons too many to fathom, Mr Facehunter gives a cocky grin at having caught a girlfriend.
Stylist/blogger/DJ Maria Barfod’s biggest beauty secret? Restorative yoga and Los Angeles sunshine!
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The new Københavner issue’s main man machines: Illustrator Karl Kolind and cover girl Keith Thomas Lohse.
Dansk Daily-Driver Mikkel gets a boner from leopard-patterned vehicular motion.
Kristian Nyholm has finally ventured outside his Østerbro dominion.
Mao Zedong-chic is still going strong as evidenced by the blonde commie-couture bombshell on the left.
Happy-go-lucky Københavner-crew Larserik, Maria, Martin and the woman known only as dollargrin-Mie.
Københavner #3 Launch
words: magnus jorem photo: Maiken Hansen
Københavner #3 Launch
The magazine for, by and about Copenhageners — Københavner — launched its issue #3 Wednesday at Fortunen. And nobody dared utter the dreaded h-word.
Zulu’s Tina K made a scandalous entrance with saucy female company Laura, photographer at Københavner The ecstatic Josefine Winding and bf absolutely love the camera.
The almighty King of Kødbyen’s barbeque Michael Lauritsen flanked by burger-hungry disciples.
This quartet stands ready to utterly destroy your preconceptions about haute couture.
Photographer / jewelry design entrepeneur Annemie D camouflaged in red lipstick and shades alongside everyone’s favorite Mr. Bonke.
NU KAN HVER DAG VÆRE EN KJOLEDAG Fjerner selv de korteste hårstrå, så du ikke skal bekymre dig om at holde benene fri for stubbe – men blot vise dine smukke, silkebløde ben.
DELTAG I V EET STILETL ØB 2012 Fredag d.
10/8 kl. 17 .30 på Am København agertorv, K Tilmelding og yderlige re info på w w w.veet. dk
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dansk daily THURSDAY august 9th LOOK OF THE DAY
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look of the day By ma x fact or
Covetable FREYA DALSJÖ counterpoints LOOK OF THE DAY by Max Factor Words · Bea Fagerholt / Photo · Mathilde Schmidt
Rough cap coolness and street style attitude in combination with a beautiful femininity characterize the SS13 collection by Freya Dalsjö. This atmosphere was meticulously depicted in the look, where brows are sculpted and darkened black to emphasize the coolness evolving the collection, while the skin is kept clean and flawless as a counterpoint to these rough connotations. Max Factor eye-brightening mascara stresses the eye color and creates a balance between eyes and brows. Key products - All by Max Factor Liquid eyeliner pencil · Eye Brightening Volumising Mascara · Ageless Elixir Foundation Mastertouch Concealer · Colour Elixir Lipstick · Stardust no. 615 · Sun Frolic no. 34
WE aRE pRoud to pRESEnt ouR nEW FaShion FaiR t W E n t Y- n i n E Roa R i n G SE a s o n S M o R E t h a n 1 1 .0 0 0 Ro u S i n G BR a n dS h u n d R E d s o F t h o u s a n d s o F R E Wa R d i n G t R a n s aC t i o n s 529.4 8 1 E xC i t E d v i s i to R S 1 9 1 o u t s ta n d i n G s h oWS d oz E n S o F i n t ER n at i o n a l BR E a K t h Ro u G h ta l E n t s a n d Q u i t E a FE W a m a z i n G pa Rt i ES W E i n v i t E Yo u to W R i t E Fa s h i o n h i s to RY W i t h u s
C p h v i S i o n + t ER M i n a l-2 = v i S i o n v i S i o n B R i n GS t Wo Fa i R S to G E t h E R to M a K E t h E M o S t dY n a M i C a n d E n G aG i n G Fa S h i o n E x p E R i E n C E i n n o Rt h E R n E u R o p E. u n i t E d u n d E R o n E R o o F W E a i M to C R E at E a n o u t S ta n d i n G, tota l E x p E R i E n C E F o R B u Y E R S, p R E S S a n d E x h i B i to R S
9 – 1 1 auG uSt 20 12 – d u R i n G Co p E n h aG E n Fa S h i o n W E E K –
lo Ko M ot i v væ R K S t E d E t, B u i l d i n G o Bv 037 ot to B u S S E S v E j 5 a , 245 0 C o p E n h aG E n S v
W W W.C p h v i S i o n . d K
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thursday 09.08.2012
events
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
MUNTHE PLUS SIMONSEN BOOK LAUNCH AND GRAND BREAKFAST 09.00-11.00 - by invitation only Gallery, Forum Balcony, Julius Thomsens Plads 1, Frederiksberg C VISION LAUNCH 10.00-12.00 - by invitation only Lokomotivværkstedet, Otto Busses Vej 5A, Copenhagen SV COVER & SAMSØE SAMSØE BRUNCH 10.00-12.00 - by invitation only Gallery Show Scene Julius Thomsens Plads 1, Frederiksberg C 2ND DAY & COVER 18.00-20.00 - by invitation only Day Birger et Mikkelsen, Pilestræde 16, Copenhagen K HUGO & EUROMAN 21.00-00.30 - by invitation only NIMB, Bernstorffsgade 5, Copenhagen V
COPENHAGEN FASHION FESTIVAL
STYLISH MACAROONS 08.30-17.30 - SHOP - open to all La Glace, Skoubogade 3, Copenhagen K NEW NORDIC FASHION 11.00-17.00 - EXHIBITION - open to all Designmuseum Danmark and Danish Fashion Institute Bredgade 68, Copenhagen K LOOK OF THE DAY 11.00-18.00 - BEAUTY - open to all Max Factor, Magasin, Kgs. Nytorv 13, Copenhagen K UPCOMING DESIGNERS OF DENMARK 18.00-05.00 - SHOW AND PARTY - open to all YourLook, Fabrikken, Dreschelsgade 10, Islands Brygge, Copenhagen S GARDEN PARTY WITH WON HUNDREd AND PEDE & STOFFER 21.00-04.00 - PARTY - open to all Klostertræde 15 (back yard), Copenhagen K
show sChedule thursday 09.08.2012 B y INVITATION ON LY
10.00 - TAP2, Pasteursvej 30, Copenhagen V
19.00 - Gallery Show Scene Julius Thomsens Plads 1, Frederiksberg C
Guldknappen
Odeur 15.00 - TAP2, Pasteursvej 30, Copenhagen V
11.00 - NIMB, Bernstorffsgade 5, Copenhagen V
Anne Sofie Madsen 20.00 - Øksnehallen, Halmtorvet 11, Copenhagen V
Edith & Ella
By Malene Birger 16.00 - NIMB, Bernstorffsgade 5, Copenhagen V
12.00 - Gallery Show Scene Julius Thomsens Plads 1, Frederiksberg C
Jean // phillip 21.00 - The Royal Danish Playhouse Sankt Annæ Plads 36, Copenhagen K
Stine Goya
Designers Remix
17.00 - Gallery Show Scene Julius Thomsens Plads 1, Frederiksberg C 13.00 - Vision Show Venue Otto Busses Vej 5A, Copenhagen SV
Peter Jensen 22.00 - TAP2, Pasteursvej 30, Copenhagen V
Noa Noa
Day Birger et Mikkelsen 18.00 - Silkegade 8, Copenhagen K
Bruuns Bazaar 14.00 - Gallery Show Scene Julius Thomsens Plads 1, Frederiksberg C
23.00 - Andersens Contemporary Art Amager Strandvej 50, Copenhagen S
French Connection
Wood Wood
For more events and show details go to www.copenhagenfashionfestival.com
INDIA : ART NOW
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