DANSK Daily - February 2014, Saturday

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COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

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COME TOGETHER Editorial

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Elsebeth Mouritzen

With fashion week winding down and getting ready to close for now, some of us will meet sooner than expected in August.

CIFF, by far the largest fashion fair of the three, has announced a shift in opening days from the traditional Thursday-Sunday to a trial of SundayWednesday to accomodate the wishes of both Danish and Scandinavian buyers, to whom Sunday is a very important market day, as it is the only one on which their shops are closed.

By going forth with this, fashion week will start on August 3, and if Copenhagen Fashion Week decides to continue their scheduled show calendar to commence on the Wednesday, it will be a record-long event.

The dialogue is on between the organizers, but at press time nothing has been concluded. The initiative from CIFF is also fueled by the preferences of European and other international buyers and press, who would prefer to work on weekdays.

The courtesy of moving the fair dates should also be seen in the light of CIFF’s interest in creating an even more relevant international platform to compete with other European fashion fairs, and get the attention that is so vital for the expansion of the fashion industry in Denmark.

They can probably agree to that at both the other fairs Vision and Gallery, and at Copenhagen Fashion Week and Danish Fashion Institute, because each season they have invited their own congregation

of international tastemakers. So instead of working their own agendas, it would be beneficial if all parties could come together and agree on a concerted effort to promote our great industry.

Denmark has a lot to offer, from design icons to established fashion houses and solid mercantile corporations.

Lately, the generational change – in which seasoned designers either team up with young talents or pass on the torch – and the emergence of new strong fashion visionaries has also been strengthening a unified campaign.

Fashion is already vital to the national economy as a primary export. Let’s seize the momentum.

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EDITORIAL

Contributors PUBLISHERS DANSK Magazine & Copenhagen Fashion Week EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Elsebeth Mouritzen CREATIVE & MANAGING EDITOR Rozanna Fritz ART DIRECTION / GRAPHIC DESIGN Marco Pedrollo, Mikkel M. Andersen · IRONFLAG SUB-EDITOR Magnus Jorem EXECUTIVE EDITOR Anne Christine Persson EDITORIAL ASSISTANT / WEB EDITOR Ilse Friborg GRAPHIC ASSISTANT Lukas Højlund

WRITERS Moussa Mchangama, Lotte Freddie, Sille Henning, FASHIONFORUM Naja Helene Hertzum, Hans Gottlieb Kia Wilkenloh, Monica Senker Holbech PHOTOGRAPHERS Mathilde Schmidt Helena Lundquist SALES REPRESENTATIVE Jens Løkke DISTRIBUTION Karoline Landbo PRINT Berlingske Avistryk

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BEAUTY BEHIND THE SCENES Denmark’s leading beauty expert, Charlotte Torpegaard, joins the Dansk Daily team this season, lending her insights on the latest trends featured in Look of the Day, while giving her blog’s faithful followers a first-hand look at the hectic life of the backstage.

Charlotte Torpegaard has successfully blogged about her great passion since 2009, but has also had time to write two books, Skønhed kommer indefra, men lidt læbestift skader ikke (Beauty comes from within, but a little lipstick doesn’t hurt), and more recently Yummy Mummy, inspired by her own pregnancy, on how to look great during and after.

Both books have fueled an interest in Charlotte Torpegaard as a beauty consultant and keynote speaker around the country, and she is also a frequent guest editor on national television, giving tips and revealing beauty secrets, as the true insider she is.

www.ilovebeauty.dk

CREATIVE DIRECTOR ROZANNA LOVES PILGRIM

TWO GET ATTENTION Magasin Kgs. Nytorv takes an active approach during Copenhagen Fashion Week to help promote new brands directly to the consumers.

Menswear brand Les Deux gets the center of attention this season, taking over part of the groundfloor area of the department store to show off its SS14 collection.

Les Deux is the story of a cross-cultural relationship between a political refugee and a prep boy from the suburbs. The authenticity of this relationship was carried over into what in 2009 became Les Deux, a fashion and lifestyle brand for young urban men, created as a unique meeting between mentalities and backgrounds.

From the outset, modest means allowed only for the creation of a single T-shirt. Since then, the brand has grown each year and now spans across not only cultural but national borders as well.

It is the type of look where high-street menswear styles are mixed with preppy-inspired elements.

www.pilgrim.dk

– Les Deux is indiscriminate of gender, politics, cultural backgrounds, and religious beliefs, we are for everyone, says founders Andreas von der Heide and Virgil Nicholas, who are the two. Les Deux.

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NEWS

FASHION WITH FUNCTION A brand in its prime after 40 years of dressing the contemporary man, Matinique marks a return to the heritage tailoring that laid the foundation of the brand’s success.

The AW14 collection will feature a capsule wardrobe of masculine styles updated with seasonal pieces.

Matinique marks the new development by adding a series of versatile outerwear, cut to fit over suits and jackets, and insulated with Dintex, an advanced high-performance technical membrane engineered to deliver waterproof functionality and breathability at the same time.

Merging fashion and functionality, the collection is themed around a modern sartorial aesthetic in classic suiting, chinos, shirts and knitwear, while the addition of new and innovative fibers makes the style more functional, flexible and comfortable than ever.

To complete the design, taped seams and storm zips protect from the elements together with concealed drawstrings and sealed piping, but the overall feel of the coats and jackets is masculine and high performance, without restricting movement.

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LITTLE SISTER, BIG SUCCESS Launched in its native Copenhagen 8 years ago, as the youngest brand in The Original Group, owned by IC Companys, Soaked in Luxury has grown quickly internationally. It is currently present in 11 other markets worldwide, which all have shown a considerable growth the last two years.

This growth has seen a strong distribution network develop and many independents stocking the brand with great success. The loyalty shown from the current stockists further shows the brands commerciality and strength within its sector.

As a fashion label it is Soaked in Luxury’s mission to be the bridge between the high street and the fashion houses. The brand reflects the individualism, trends and look of designer brands, but at high street prices. The brand produces 10 collections every year in order to respond quickly to emerging trends, based on the design philosophy, that all collections have a strong identity.

Femininity is a key word with both soft flowing feminine tops and dresses having become stable styles in the collections. The elegant feel, in combination with the attention to detail, creates an innovative and well-dressed style which surprises, yet still accommodates the high demands the Soaked in Luxury customer has when it comes to fashion. She wants to be dressed up luxuriously, and still have value for money, the clothes always easy to wear.

One of the reasons for the success lies in the brands philosophy of being a wholesale driven brand with a retail mindset.

- With an ever expanding customer portfolio, fantastic collections and an understanding of what the customer wants, Soaked in Luxury has big plans for the future. Our aim is to rubber stamp Soaked in Luxury’s position as one of the leading womenswear brands in Scandinavia and beyond, says Maria Lundtang, International Wholesale Manager.

This is complemented by Head of Design, Eva-Maria Johansson: - We are always very focused on getting everything right, making sure that the overall impression, the finish, as well as the last details always match up. To us, it is of upmost importance that our clients feel pampered and at ease, every time they put on one of our styles.”

MOMMY-FASHIONISTAS TAKE TO BLOGGING Children’s fashion has grown to become a big part of Copenhagen Fashion Week. CIFF Kids alone has 300 brands represented on 3,000 square meters at Bella Center, and to emphasize the importance of the target group, CIFF has teamed up with two Scandinavian bloggers, mommy-fashionistas Camilla from Denmark and Biljana, aka Billiethekid, from Sweden, to lend a voice to this segment

during the fashion fair. Through camillasfashionlab.com and hannasroom.com they’ll give followers a closer look at the hectic days of buying and selling during Copenhagen Fashion Week, but primarily give the readers and consumers a unique chance of previewing future kids’ collections, selected and conveyed by real mothers.

TEXTURIZE YOUR ‘DO When it comes to dos and don’ts for your hairdo, stylist Sidsel Marie Bøg is your go-to girl in the Danish beauty business. A real fan of the powerful yet natural look, Sidsel recommends adding texture and oomph to your hair with the new texturizing spray from Studio Line.

“I love the messy yet structured look that especially Saint Laurent has pioneered,” the hair stylist says. “My favorite styling product is the TXT Volume Texturizing spray. It is a fusion of hairpowder and hairspray, which gives a complete wow-effect. Lots of volume, texture and hold… love it!”

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NEWS

MORE FOR LESS Shopping high-end brands at a reduced price in special outlet cities is a trend that has come to stay, and it has found a growing and loyal clientele in Denmark.

Creuset, Asics, and last year they were joined by ten more brands, among them Haglöfs, Saint Tropez and Superdry.

So far, the only outlet of its kind in Denmark is Ringsted Outlet, ideally situated a 40-minute drive from central Copenhagen on the E20 motorway to Fyn and Jylland. This location has proved succesful, as the outlet city had a growth of 14 percent in turnover and more than 1.2 million visitors last year.

– The crisis has made Danes more aware about their spendings, and they have become more sensible. They like original brands and good quality, but also to save money, says center manager Jeanette Jussing Amdal, adding:

Ringsted Outlet is modeled after the same concept that many will recognize from abroad with original flagships stores, owned and run by the international brands themselves. Among the first to embrace the Danish initiative have been Boss, Diesel, Wolford, Levi’s, G-Star, Calvin Klein Underwear, Nike, Puma, Le

– At Ringsted the international brands can market their remaining products from previous seasons in a unique and exclusive shopping environment, which supports their brand identity. Consumer get the full brand experience, even though it is an outlet. Here, the major brands lie side by side in nice stores with a high level of service, their clients coming with the specific goal of shopping.

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DIAMONDS ARE A MAN’S BEST FRIEND

The watch, the wedding band, and the car have for decades been the primary symbols of masculine power and wealth. But thanks to entrepreneurial brothers Mads and Mikkel Kornerup, modern men are embracing jewelry more and more, increasingly receptive to wearing pieces not long ago confined to women only. It started with the bracelet, and now there is more…

the man works in fashion or entertainment, politics or finance, says CEO Mikkel Kornerup.

Today, Shamballa stands out as one the world’s finest purveyors of high-end jewellery, and the only one with serious attention to the tastes of men. When the Kornerup brothers started their business less than ten years ago, they had their own gender in mind.

- To the surprise of many, men are also drawn to wearing diamonds. They are no longer regarded as feminine.

We use them pavéed, but have also taken to use whole, raw diamonds in the same size as the beads to mix in between and create a masculine look.

– We made jewelry that we wanted for ourselves at a time when nobody else had an eye for that market. In the beginning, the design was a little heavy on gold, but we stuck to the initial idea and gradually developed pieces that had a masculine expression but looked less compact. Even though it was a barrier to cross for many in the beginning, the launch of the Shamballa macramé bracelet, with individually chosen beads, has proved to us that men like to express their personal style, whether it is worn with a fine suit or casual jeans, and whether

Karl Lagerfeld, a first mover in all aspects, was one of the first international designers to sport the Shamballa bracelets, and soon other high-profile colleagues like Riccardo Tisci, Viktor & Rolf, Valentino and Giorgio Armani followed suit.

The Shamballa bracelet is now a world-renowned phenomenon that comes with customized pearls of gold, semi-precious stones and diamonds pavé, and is seen on the wrists of a diversity of men around the world.

Now, Mikkel and Mads Kornerup are excited to see if their newest invention, the male necklace, will catch on as it has done with the famous designer. The singlebead necklace has already been worn by actor Ashton

Kutcher, but having a sixth sense for future trends, Mads Kornerup created a monochrome necklace in various black and white diamond beads to be sold out of the prestigious concept store Colette in Paris.

Soon after, Karl Lagerfeld was seen wearing the necklace, and last week, he donned it over his suit and tie, blending in with his own colors, when he received applause for his Chanel haute couture collection.

– Historically, men used much more jewellery centuries ago, and after a long time with watches and rings only, it is nice to see how natural it looks adding a bracelet and a necklace to the male wardrobe. It can become a very personal piece of jewelry as well, and those who shy away from wearing it on the outside can wear it inside their shirts. When it is time to unbutton and loosen the tie, they can show some of it, and perhaps create curiosity about the piece. That way, you show a different side of yourself, but not all, says Mikkel Kornerup, adding: – We are used to women’s jewelry being family heirlooms. Wouldn’t it be great if men in the future say: ”I inherited this from my father!”.

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NEWS

HOW TO GET: PONYTAIL PERFECTION If there is one hairstyle that never goes out of fashion it is the ponytail – the hairdo equivalent of denim jeans or the perfect crisp, white shirt.

You can wear it casually low on your head or create a preppy look placing it high on your head and finish it off with a headband. Or you can just go for the classic, sleek version – which hairstylist Sidsel Marie Bøg has perfected – for a sexy yet subtle look. Here she demonstrates how you get the look in a few easy steps.

1: Do a low side-parting and smooth the front of the hair to one side. Use a dry oil for the hair like Ever Sleek from Hair Expertise for a polished finish.

2: Secure the pony tail on the top of your head and use Elnett Sleekissime hairspray to create a groomed look and prevent flyaways.

3: Spray a generous amount of Elnett Sleekissime onto the ponytail and backcomb two thirds of the hair.

4/5: Gather the ponytail and let the smooth parts of the hair cover the teased parts of the ponytail. Twist it into a subtle curl and secure the look with a final touch of hairspray.

LIKE LIKE LIKE

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ANNE PERSSON LOVES BY MALENE BIRGER NECKLACE www.bymalenebirger.com

TRESEMME BLOW-OUT BAR During fashion week, the Nytorv square in central Copenhagen is taken over by TRESemmé, who want you to look fabulous throughout Copenhagen Fashion Week and therefore invite you to get pampered at their incredible Blow-Out Bar, where you can get your hair styled for free. TRESemmé has parked a large styling bus on Nytorv, where five professional hair stylists are ready to work their magic on your ‘do. Stop by the stylish TRESemmé Blow-Out Bar for hot hair and hot drinks.

WHO WOULDN’T SHARE A DRINK WITH HER? Having been a fashionable drink since the first drop of vodka left the unique round bottle in 1979, Swedish manufacturer Absolut is redefining luxury liquor with tits new product Absolut Elyx. Not only in the cutting edge design, now a square bottle with trendy copper decor, but also in the carefully crafted spirit. And some campaign model!

It is, as always, produced in the southeastern part of Sweden, in the Skåne region, by locals and with local ingredients. Made from single estate wheat and manually distilled in a 1921 copper still, the Elyx edition is the culmination of hundreds of years of Swedish spirit and vodka-making tradition.

The copper distillation adds a valued silky texture as well as subtle savory notes. It smells fruity with a hint of toffee, tastes subtly of light cereal and macadamia nuts, and leaves a trace of something clean, with a warm, spicy flavor.

It is meant to be served on the rocks, but you can absolutely mix it into cocktails. And who else but the always cutting-edge actress, designer and model Chloë Sevigny to campaign for the exclusive drops?

She’s the muse of creative director Johan Lindeberg, founder of BLK DNM, and he chose her for his first-ever ad campaign behind the lens, because she is the embodiment of modernity and integrity.

– It is no longer about portraying an image through excess and logo. Modern-day luxury is all about integrity. Through intimate experiences, high-level events, and future advertising, we want to create powerful environments that inspire people and create an emotional connection between the brand and the consumer, says Lindeberg.

FUN AND ROMANCE Two of Sweden’s popular brands go hand in hand this spring in a limited capsule collection, as Monki teams up with well-known designer Ida Sjöstedt for a party collection in which their fun-loving attitude meets her well-known romantic aesthetics.

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NEWS

– I wanted to find that magical combination of maxed out romance, a luxurious feel and youthful cheekiness. It is full of sweet pastels, electric cornflower blue, soft materials and equally soft silhouettes, says Ida Sjöstedt.

The collection consist of nine garments with a high-quality feel, designed for good times. The dresses, dress pants, shorts and matching T-shirts are defined

by variations of specially designed prints in either sweet turquoise or electric blue.

– Monki and Ida share a love of imagination, and we think the romantic tone of the collectiopn is spot-on for the season, says Sofia Wallin, Head of Design and Buying, about their third collaboration.

While consumers will have to wait till April for the collection, they can now enjoy a discount of 10 percent in all Copenhagen stores this week to celebrate Copenhagen Fashion Week. www.monki.com/shop

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60S FLAIR Voted one of the best dressed men of the year by GQ, Britain’s first Tour de France winner and seven-time Olympic medalist Bradley Wiggins launches his fifth collection with Fred Perry worldwide this week.

The collection takes its cues from the cyclist’s mod aesthetics, with pique shirts offset with contrast panel details, fine gauge merino knits cut with 1960s style necklines, and perforated leather details evocative

of vintage handlebar tape seen across footwear styles.

– I go back a long way with Fred Perry. I bought my first Fred Perry shirt when I was a kid and it’s gone from there. It is great to have your own range with your name on the label and to be a part of the history of this great British brand, says Wiggins about the collection that is available in Fred Perry Authentic shops and at www.fredperry.com/men/bradley-wiggins

BLURRED LINES The nude trend is here to stay – and if anything this is a look that requires, well, makeup. Garnier, who took BB cream to the masses, is now launching its latest invention, Optical Blur, which not only evens out fine lines, pores and dark spots but also adds an instant soft touch filter to the skin.

No photoshop needed once this little trickster works its magic – which is why the campaign was also shot with no use of post-production retouch.

If you feel hipstamatic-filters and instagram-editing is so 2013, maybe you are ready for some photoshop in a tube.

MORE THAN RAIN BOOTS A decade before Kate Moos made it hip to wear wellies at festivals and elsewhere, Ilse Jakobsen had established herself as the Queen of Rain Boots in Denmark and soon after abroad. Now she takes her business full circle as a lifestyle brand.

Born out of her own sheer need to walk along the coastline of Denmark, come rain or shine, she revolutionized the rain boot, handcrafting it in vivid solid colors and fun and feminine patterns. The appeal was prompt, and after 20 years her boots are now represented in major cities around the world.

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NEWS

She expanded her universe to include beautiful print dresses that actually work quite well with the boots, thus emphasizing the relaxed lifestyle of her native fishing village Hornbæk that is a constant source of inspiration for her work.

The next obvious move was to create a maritime brand, Cruize by Ilse Jacobsen, and a few months ago she launched a line of spa and beauty products in her name, to be used at home or during treatments at her newly opened luxury spa, Kurbadet by Ilse Jacobsen, making her lifestyle universe complete.

TASTE OF FASHION La Glace once again collaborates with a prominent designer during Copenhagen Fashion Week, presenting a specially created French macaroon and a decadent fashion cake, this time inspired by jewelry designer and goldsmith Charlotte Lynggaard.

She has made a Japanese universe for the historic confectionary in Skoubogade, where handmade silk leaves and painted details adorn kimono-inspired dresses in thick ivory double weave silks. The giant cake is a reflection of the dress decor and it’s extravagant colors, and the macaroon consists of crisp cherry meringues enclosing a lemon-caramel creme.

The window display is visible and the cakes are available until Sunday.

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ELISE GUG MAKES A MOVE She has succesfully dressed royalty and nobility, Oscar-winning director Susanne Bier, politicians and everyday heroines out of her salon on private premises in Copenhagen’s Old Town, open a few days a week, but as of this Monday, designer Elise Gug makes her luxury ready-to-wear accessible to a broader audience from a new flagship store in the historic courtyard Pistolstræde. The boutique, off bustling Ny Østergade with like-minded neighbors, will now sell her informal, classic and feminine

elegance every day of the week during normal business hours.

– I have looked forward to creating my own universe in which to present my collections properly, to be more visible and this way closer to the costumers, says Elise Gug, who, along with her husband Niels Kongshauge, divides her time between Denmark and Italy, where they oversee the manufacturing of clothes, made from the finest fabrics.

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WARM THE MODERN WAY If not Scandinavians, who else should know how to keep warm and cosy in a modern and stylish way? Part Two comes to rescue in the AW14 collections with knitwear that has a super soft and delicate feel and is presented in a variety of linen, wool alpaca and mohair.

The key items are a casual series of fine-gauge knits in block coloured stripes. Mohair knits with colourful folkloristic patterns as well as feminine blouses with lace patterns reflect the collection’s Scandinavian take on an artisan, ethnic design. All balancing the casual comfort with a feminine look.

DESIGNERS NEST FASCINATING DESIGN

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NEWS

Words Lotte Freddie The design competition Designer’s Nest was created in 2003 to promote Nordic design graduates. The final test, in which Scandinavian students can demonstrate their ideas, is a show held at Copenhagen Vision Fashion Fair, providing a platform for up-and-coming designers. This time, 25 students from Iceland, Sweden, Finland, Denmark, and Norway competed for global exposure to press and buyers – and for the DKK 50,000 prize.With two runners up, the winner of

the first prize was Giorgi Rostiashvili from The Royal Academy School of Design, Denmark. He won for his “strong craftsmanship, attention to detail and very clear vision of design.” A fair and right choice of well-made and fascinating design: Black and white striped pencil trousers – under a nude chiffon dress bordered with black cone frills - or under a black blouse and skirts, short in front and ending in panels in the back widening outwards like a swallow’s tail.

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Short and raw

MUNTH E WORDS Lotte Freddie PHOTO Copenhagen Fashion Week

They were some of the shortest skirts so far this fashion week.

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SHOWS

Naja Munthe celebrated her 20 years in Danish fashion with understandably concentrating her firm solely on her own name and presenting it with a collection inspired by Cambodia and the jungle. It is aimed at her friends, hot chicks and cool cats who next winter can promenade their slender legs in Naja’s mini shorts and (sometimes too short) skirts, most of them in flowing in silk or leather. Munthe is renowned for lovely embroidery and decoration. It was present here, though less than usual, on blouses and jackets. Instead she showed some fine, loose, long rib angora knit sweaters, which looked great with black leather trousers

or the short, wide silk shorts or skirts, especially good-looking in a slick color combination of peach sweater and saffron skirt.

Naja’s goal, to make styles that are essential in any wardrobe, is achieved with some of the best parka coats this season with quilting of the lower half of the back. They are super chic in a camouflage pattern or a jungle pattern of snake and abstract turquoise flowers – reminiscent of the late Alexander McQueen’s last 2010 collection. The jungle animals, alligator, leopard and snake, have made their way printed onto Munthe clothes along with jungle flowers – some very handsome ones in aquamarine, a bit similar to the immensely popular Lanvin hits by Alber Elbaz.

A combination of ample knit cardigans in zig zag stripes or longish maxi sweaters worn with a short asymmetrical wrap skirts will be loved

by Munthe lovers, while matte soft gold in pencil trousers and jackets will be flying out Munthe’s door. As will terrific RAF pilot jackets made in beige or the original color brown leather with cream lamb lining. A smashing silver grey safari shirt dress in satin is another dead-sure Munthe design.

And best of all – everything in the entire collection has side pockets. A clever extra touch to underline that laid-back, young and carefree Munthe attitude.

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S TI NE GOYA WORDS Moussa Mchangama PHOTO Copenhagen Fashion Week

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SHOWS

Fragile femininity

Stine Goya’s universe is a fragile and feminine one. Normally consisting mainly of pastel hues, it was a pleasure to see the Central Saint Martins-educated print designer work with darker shades.

She introduced new silhouettes with broad, balloon-shaped pants and blouses – they worked really well as a new direction for the designer.

A dark zebra-like print in hues of purple, green, black, and blue was perfect.

The show notes cited sculptor Constantin Brancusi and contemporary artist Ruby Sky Stiler as inspirations – it must have been an easy fit for Goya, as both artists focus on the female form and body: it was evident in an artistic black and white print with hands, eyes, and mouths.

Some of the best pieces were a green leather jacket made up of small squares, the long light blue coat with pearls on the belt that opened the show, and a glittering short dress worn on top model Louise P (she closed the show alongside model-gone-actress Lykke May to much applause).

The designer made cool shoes again – white pumps with golden heels and black ankle boots and the golden sports sandals she’s made in collaboration with H20.

Overall, it was a strong collection from Goya.

Lots of great pieces, beautifully styled by Emelie Johansson – but as she came up with great new ideas, we may have seen the short, peplumed jackets one time too many from the designer’s hands. There’s always a fine balance between maintaining a signature and repeating yourself – luckily, that balance was just there.

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Voice in the wilderness

BIBI CHEMNITZ WORDS Moussa Mchangama PHOTO Copenhagen Fashion Week

The notes for Bibi Chemnitz’ show at City Hall cited the great outdoors of her homeland Greenland,”the astonishing beauty of Greenland’s winter vistas and the looming dangers below the arctic permafrost,” as inspirations. The collection was called Cold World, Warm Heart but apart from the clothes being warm and good for winter, it wasn’t an inspiration that really came through.

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SHOWS

Maybe that’s because the clothes in themselves are pretty basic – and absolutely

decent ones at that. But there’s no reason to try and add more meaning to them than necessary, the garments can speak for themselves.

But, to the collection. Held in black, white, grey, green and tan, one could find a mix of streetwear and relaxed tailoring. A black/ white print was strong, just like the silver fabric seen on the show’s last pieces was pretty.

Overall, the strongest part of the collection was the menswear. The quilted thermo-jack-

ets are well-fitted and really good (there’re two different versions in black or white), just like a black set in a thick fabric with stitched vertical panels was just right. For the ladies, the silver pieces or the burnt orange pants with black pockets where the best.

It’s effortless and casual, but the fit is good and the fabrics great. Chemnitz went all-in on logomania, with her first name seen on blouses, with B’s on the front and back and I’s on the arms, a clever way to do it.

C O P E N H A G E N I N T E R N AT I O N A L FA S H I O N FA I R

FA L L / W I N T E R 2 0 1 4 – 1 5 30 January – 2 February 2014, Bella Center, Copenhagen C I F F. D K

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BITTE Good vibrations KAI RAND WORDS Elsebeth Mouritzen PHOTO Copenhagen Fashion Week

The refrain of the flirtatious opening song for the Bitte Kai Rand show went ”well, she is a little bit strange,” but the presentation of the clothes and the attitude of the models looked perfectly normal, actually refreshingly playful and timelessly modern.

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SHOWS

Sweet-faced with French twists and smiles, they interpreted the upbeat mood of the veteran designer, who has teamed up with younger colleague Anemone Skjoldager for a couple of years to inspire and rejuvenate her signature soft simplicity in knit and silks.

Bitte Kai Rand makes clothes to be worn effortlessly as an extension of your personality. It doesn’t scream TRENDY!, but keeps the beat.

The silhouette is loose and sometimes fashionably slouchy in comfortable sweaters, loose tops, and pants, but there is also bodyconscious dresses and fitted shirts with leggings.

Nice details include zigzag closings on jackets and crisp shirts, and loose panels on skirts, moving like dancing pleats. A diamond-patterned wool looks great in jackets and coats, some of them cuffed with fur that is actually fake. But you’ll be fooled until you touch it.

A large part of the collection revolves about graphic prints and broken patterns, mostly in stark contrasts of white, grey and black, but it also features solids in a range of flattering soft winter pastels alongside shades of red, pink and green. New to Bitte is the midnight blue, executed well in a new take on the peacoat with the aforementioned zigzags.

The good vibe of the show, the first in five years, was completed by the designers receiving applause in unity, giving credit to one another.

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SATURDAY FEBRUARY 01

DANSK DAILY

GANNI WORDS Sille Henning PHOTO Polina Vinogradova

Laid-back chic The Danish label Ganni has ridden a wave of success in the last few seasons, hitting home runs and becoming the cool girl’s goto brand for nonchalant attitude and feminine spirit.

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SHOWS

The autumn/winter collection was no exception as they showed it at The David Collection, the gorgeous home of Scandinavia’s biggest collection of Islamic art from the 7th to the 19th century.

The collection took its inspiration from Russian history, which was underlined by voluminous fake-fur coats, kosack hats, and muffs, but it also played upon the label’s signature styles like the blue and white plaid coat or the fluffy wool coat in both camel and raspberry. Also among the standout styles were the oversize leather shorts in both black and burgundy, the bomber jacket in a leopardish kind of print, and the shearling sneakers, which all will play well amongst fashion editors and style-setters.

Various flower prints added a feminine contrast to the collection together with pencil skirts in lace and the bodyhugging kimono dress.

The palette was made up mostly of dark tones like black, dusty blue, and burgundy, but with splashes of bright orange, blue and raspberry.

It was a beautiful and easily wearable collection that fused edgy street style with relaxed tailoring and a chic laid-back feel that will definitely be well-received by Ganni’s loyal followers.

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SATURDAY FEBRUARY 01

DANSK DAILY

BETTINA B A K DA L WORDS Moussa Mchangama PHOTO Copenhagen Fashion Week

Understated Luxury

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SHOWS

When the show ended, Bettina Bakdal received a big applause and lots of cheers from the crowds. The reason is clear; she had her own brand By Bakdal from 1995-2005, afterwards taking the reins at InWear. But for the last couple of years, she’s been away from the creative part of design, teaching at Kolding School of Design. Now she’s back with her eponymous brand and the collection The Row – which she designed with a runway show in mind.

That was evident when the models came out for applause afterwards – from the first black look to the final brown coat, the colors faded into each other. From black to grey, to shades of lilac, red, yellows and brown. The qualities of the woolen fabrics and the gorgeous use of color were some of the biggest strengths of the collection; though the garments are understated, they possess a luxurious quality and indeed, everything is made in Denmark.

The silhouettes were soft with big, round and dropped shoulders on coats, blouses and dresses. A deep red coat and a pair of bulking, delicate pink pants stood out. The models were a diverse crowd: From professional models to young men and mid-age women, they underlined that Bakdal designs for a broad audience.

But even though it’s broad, her audience have one thing in common: a desire for understated luxury and a willingness to pay for it.

WE RUN THE BLOCK

HUMMEL 3-S AUTUMN/WINTER 2014

SATURDAY FEBRUARY 01

DANSK DAILY

MSleek AIsexiness KEL TAWADROS WORDS Moussa Mchangama PHOTO Copenhagen Fashion Week

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SHOWS

The dark universe of Maikel Tawadros was slowly introduced to Danish editors a couple of seasons ago, but this season saw his first real fashion show in the snowy city. Held in black, a deep, dusty purple, and a green marble print, his universe presented a different direction than seen previously this week – it was more in the heritage of minimalist now-defunct brands like Camilla Stærk, Jens Laugesen, Noir, and Annhagen.

Sleek, draped dresses and tops slowly came down the runway, while there also was a focus on tailoring. A black blazer with crossing bands on the front had no back – it bared the skin and gave a hint of sexiness. A pair of black leather pants were really tight – but they fit like a glove and were some of the best skinny leather pants seen this season. A jacket with a bulky skin, fur, and neoprene arms looked great.

”Rennaissance, standing out and love,” the designer promptly offered backstage after the show – and for sure, his show stood out among the crowds of Danish designers. But maybe it just lacked a tiny bit of youth? Some of the pieces did seem maybe just a tad too ladylike – but overall, it will be exciting to see this new designer find his legs and develop his vocabulary over the forthcoming seasons.

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SATURDAY FEBRUARY 01

DANSK DAILY

D e s i g n e r Wa l i M oh a m m e d B a rre ch i n co n t e m p o ra r y Pa k i s t a n i s i l h o u e t t e pi e ce .

Gre n a a B u ch a rd’ s Uffe B u cha rd w i t h hea d m ist re ss-disciplin a ri a n - chi c M u u s e bo ss .

Gre naaBuch ard’ s K im Gre naa & DAFI ’ s C e cil ie T h ors mark are huge fans of sustainable fashion because the planet is important and s tuff and if you didn’ t h ave a pl ane t you woul dn’ t h ave L anv in or Drie s van N ote n or wate r or any th ing.

Designer Stine Goya is part of a secret society of powerful red head fashionistas that includes Grace Coddington, Sonia Ry k ie l, Viv ie n n e We s twood, a n d th a t a n gr y b oy from YouTu b e .

Créol bro Mads Emil Møller is like, why should orange be the new black when they so easi ly can be combi ned ? It’s easy.

Always perusi ng revi ews f or i nspi rati on, always end i ng i n all-black g etups.

DA N S K C O L L E C T I V E PHOTOS – H ELEN A LU N D QU I S T

WO RD S – MAG NU S J O R E M

Crea t ive dire ct ors o f DAN S K M a g a zi n e Uffe B u ch ard and K im Gre naa offe re d a curate d dis pl ay of De nmark ’ s finest f ashi on d esi g n at DANSK Collective on Fri d ay.

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V.I.P. VERY IMPORTANT PRINCESSES

H o t gi rl s h ave p robl e m s , t o o – we ’ re li ke yo u , ex ce p t we ’ re h o t , s ay s a c t re ss Ch rist ia n e S cha u m bu rg -M ü l l er.

Dansk Daily’s Moussa and Marco are developing an iPhone app called LaCroixBooth that transforms you into s ome th ing th e y’ d b oth e r gl ancing at.

M a ke u p a rt i s t Ke n ny A l ex a n d e r i s a l l a b o u t charity for the homeless because there a re so m a ny ho t ho m el ess g u y s o u t t here w ho jus t ne e d a l ittl e make ove r, and may b e a lit t le wi n d m a chi n e fo r t hei r pho t o s ho o t s , no, l ots of w ind mach ine , l ike l ots .

2nd DAY girls who will ruin Christmas if they d on’t get thei r beloved cha-cha heels.

Hailing from the di stant planet of Krangathon X, evil mastermind Mark Kenly Domino Tan schemes for total domination of the intergalactic world orde r. His ass is tants thi nk they’re merely worki ng on f ashi on collecti ons.

FLAGSHIP STORE • SILKEGADE 13 • COPENHAGEN

SATURDAY FEBRUARY 01

DANSK DAILY

S co o p M o d e l s’ s Jea n e t t e s h a re s e m o t i o n a l a n d physica l in t im a c y w i t h M a n u el l a Fet t e.

Wax sculpture modeled after runway doll C arol ine B. N ie l s e n. Real is m.

Photographer Sacha Oda and stylist Emilie Guldbrandsen use their fashion talents to save Africa, combat climate change, ensure job growth in De nmark , and s pur a s e cond gre e n re volution to s olve th e problem of commodity scarcity in combination with global population growth.

P h o t o g ra ph e r C h ri s t i a n Fri i s a n d f ri e n d s h a re s a l iva t o b o o s t t h e ir im mu n e s y s t em s .

Desi g ner Naja M unthe i s a typi cal “only one glass of champagne f ashi on mom.”

Semi-Femi bloggers Anika Lori and Emma Leth cultivati ng the qui ntessenti ally Copenhag en lesbi an DJ i mage because everyone wants to be a lesbi an DJ.

MUNTHE X COVER PARTY PHOTOS – H ELEN A LU N D QU I S T

WO RD S – MAG NU S J O R E M

T hu rs d ay, fa s hi o n l a be l Munth e teame d up w ith fas h ion magazine C ove r to th row a fas hi on party f or f ashi on people.

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V.I.P. VERY IMPORTANT PRINCESSES

S l e e k f a s h i o n i s ta S i g u rd h a s r u f f l e d f a s h i o n s o n h is birt hd ay w i s hl i s t ever y yea r.

Re ce p t i o n i s t a s L o u T h a t t a n d S a ra h ave m u ch to say a b o u t f as hi o n’ s rel a t i o n s hi p t o g eo pol i t i c s .

Owner of excentric fashion label Bal l oons poon Sal oon.

Util itarian garb in th e s e ns e of eas y acce ss binds th e s e two toge th e r.

Contemporary lifestyle mogul Jakob Kampp -Berliner treati ng hi s guanxi to a treat.

Pouty and smiley both work at Munthe.

SATURDAY FEBRUARY 01

DANSK DAILY

L i bra ri a n l eo pa rd I

Pa rty pe n gu in

Elks of Elle

E x pen s ive s tuff

Of f -whi te swan.

MALENE BIRGER PHOTOS – H ELEN A LU N D QU I S T

WO R D S – MAG NU S J O R E M

By M a l en e Bi rg er n o t o nly offe re d a r unway s h ow th is s eas on b ut al s o a fas h ion re s e e w ith a jewelry presentati on to boot.

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V.I.P. VERY IMPORTANT PRINCESSES

S t rip e d s ku n k

Vicious crow of Alt for Damerne.

C a s u a l ca ts

Li brari an leopard II

B ag bad g er

SATURDAY FEBRUARY 01

DANSK DAILY

NI KOL INE L IV A N D E R S E N V ER NIS S AG E PH OTO S – H ELEN A LU N D QU I S T

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V.I.P. VERY IMPORTANT PRINCESSES

Wh i l e o t h e rs m ay claim to fus e art and fas hion, avant-garde des igner N ikoline L iv And ersen is the real d eal.

Sh e s h owe d h e r pie ce s to an e nth us ias tic crowd re pre s e nting b oth world s.

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