DANSK Daily - SS15, Wednesday

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

SPRING / SUMMER 2015

WEDNESDAY AUGUST 06

OUT OF THE BOX

REVIEWS

BARBARA I GONGINI DAVID ANDERSEN | VERONICA B. VALLENES

SPOT

PAINTBRUSH PATTERNS FREYA DALSJO COVER PHOTO WALI MOHAMMED BARRECH BY MATHILDE SCHMIDT

EVENT

HILFIGER BREAKFAST CIFF EXHIBITION

WEDNESDAY AUGUST 06

DANSK DAILY

COPENHAGENIZATION Editorial

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Elsebeth Mouritzen

This is a word that will be good for the fashion vocabulary: Copenhagenization.

New to some of us, though not in a broader sense.

Ten years ago, Danish architect and urban design consultant Jan Gehl popularized the phrase Copenhagenization in his book Public Spaces, Public Life on improving the quality of city life by re-orienting city design towards pedestrians and cyclists.

Since then, the phrase has been used widely to explain and export this mindset to international metropolitan areas, but it also seems befitting to use in the context of fashion design.

There is a parallel between Gehl's green, human-centered planning approach and the tireless efforts of Danish Fashion Institute (DAFI) to call for social responsibility, innovative materials, and improvement in production facilities

by the fashion industry. And if CEO Eva Kruse is successful with her ongoing campaign for a greener wardrobe on all levels, perhaps the rest of the world would acknowledge and refer to this as Copenhagenization.

Since 2008, Kruse has, on behalf of DAFI, targeted the issue in different organizations, and notably at the world’s biggest event on sustainability, Copenhagen Fashion Summit, where renowned international keynote speakers agree that it's an initiative of great importance. However, as Vanessa Friedman of The New York Times pointed out at the latest assembly this spring, it is pivotal that the efforts don't end in fancy words and “greenwashing,” but in actual, tangible results.

Friedman's the one who dubbed Copenhagen Fashion Week “the greenest fashion week in the world.” It's a flattering

label to have, and the closest you get to Copenhagenization, with a Green Walk shopping route, a fashion swap market, an exhibition, and even a political debate. On top of that, several of the brands showing – Barbara í Gongini in yesterday´s opening show, plus Fonnesbech, Ganni, Mads Nørgaard, David Andersen, and Mark Tan – have a strategic focus on sustainability.

It is a long-haul operation for designers and manufacturers to go organic or sustainable, and – given that most consumers are mainly concerned about look, fit and price – a challenge to communicate well that a green frame of mind is not a compromise, but a truism.

Then it's up to the designers to abolish the myth that organic equals dull and unfashionable, and hold on to their visual aesthetics in order to convince consumers that green is still the new black.

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EDITORIAL

Contributors PUBLISHERS DANSK Magazine & Copenhagen Fashion Week EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Elsebeth Mouritzen CREATIVE & MANAGING EDITOR Rozanna Fritz ART DIRECTION / GRAPHIC DESIGN Marco Pedrollo, Mikkel M. Andersen · IRONFLAG SUB-EDITOR Magnus Jorem EXECUTIVE EDITOR Anne Christine Persson

GRAPHIC ASSISTANT Mads Clausen WRITERS Moussa Mchangama, Lotte Freddie, Sille Henning PHOTOGRAPHERS Mathilde Schmidt, Helena Lundquist, Jakob Mydtskov SALES REPRESENTATIVE Jens Løkke DISTRIBUTION Julie Stenstrup & Sasia Østergaard PRINT Berlingske Avistryk

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#MYFASHIONEXCHANGEDONATION

FASHIONABLE CONSCIOUSNESS Copenhagen Fashion Week has been praised internationally for its focus on sustainability several times, and yet has no plans to rest on its laurels. On the contrary, the environmental conscience has rubbed off on the open-to-all Copenhagen Fashion Festival, and this year there are even more green activities to attend than before: At Nikolaj Kunsthal, the New Nordic Fashion exhibition displays 100% sustainable clothing designed by some of the most reputable designers in Denmark; the Green Walk shows you exactly where to shop sustainably and conscientiously; and at Christiansborg (the Danish parliament) politicians as well as citizens will discuss sustainability in the fashion industry in a big debate. All events are free and open to the public.

Join in and support the green growth!

Go to www.copenhagenfashionfestival.com to learn more about the events.

On Saturday, August 9, the grand Fashion Exchange market, which strives to limit waste in the fashion industry, takes place at City Hall Square. Fashion Exchange lets you be sustainably chic without paying a penny, and even better, it’s your chance to win a beautiful, vintage Moschino dress worn and donated by singer Pernille Rosendahl. All you have to do is upload a selfie (or even a picture someone else took of you!) with a piece of clothing you're donating to the exchange market on Instagram and hashtag it #myfashionexchangedonation and #gfxcph. Also tag @cphff – and if what you are donating is high-end, luxurious fashion, be sure to tag @anyweardk.

We will draw lots among the 10 most beautiful pictures – which will also be regrammed at Copenhagen Fashion Festival’s Instagram @cphff – and announce the winner August 9 at 21.00.

See you on Instagram!

SMALL THINGS, BIG IMPACT, WHEN PASSION IS TOOL Talks of trends and success usually revolve around fashion as outerwear, but seldom about the more private clothing like lingerie and hosiery. However, this is where the great potential lies for increasing growth for retailers, especially in times that require creating one’s own marketplace niche. Which also requires the right tools for the job, according to Scandinavian textile distributor Syversen.

The promising motto of the company, which originated in Norway, is “we do not just sell products, we sell ideas, positive energy, solid partnerships and increased revenues,” and they have the results to prove it.

Now they have their eyes set on Denmark with a goal of increasing sales on both sides of the cash register with 300 percent.

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NEWS

Syversen started as a small company sorting and selling socks, and now, with 74 years of experience on their backs through three generations, it is a modern Scandinavian distributor of high-profile hosiery and lingerie such as Marlies Dekkers, Oroblu, Calvin Klein, Pretty Polly, Eton Socks, and Muchachomalo.

“They may be small things, but these items can make a big impact if the retailer is aware of the potential. It can be the add-on sale that makes all the difference, if the sales personnel have the focus to naturally incorporate lingerie and hosiery with a fashion purchase,” says business development manager Rasmus Paludan.

He uses Copenhagen Fashion Week to introduce the Syversen concept to retailers, and when he is looking for new business partners, big passion is more important than big orders.

“We want to lend our experience and tell how much more success you can gain by reserving a few square meters of the fashion retail space to lingerie and hosiery. By implementing the new sale strategy through our “academy,” boutique owners and staff will be equipped to approach the buyers with appropriate passion, which will generate the add-on sale that can prove to make a difference,” says Rasmus Paludan.

He admits that the strategy is not new, but in times when many people think twice about spending, it’s the old-fashioned virtues of selling a product that can be the right tool for modern business acumen.

“It is all about being constructive, interacting, projecting passion, and telling a story. On our part, we educate owners and staff in the basics of the products, i.e. what is 20 denier in stockings, but we also motivate and inspire them to meet the consumers with a passion for this product. We regard it as a team effort between Syversen and the retailer,” says Rasmus Paludan.

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WEDNESDAY AUGUST 06

DANSK DAILY

CO-BRANDING KEY TO NEW SUCCESS

Karen Simonsen knows a thing or two about branding from her successful days as part of Munthe plus Simonsen, which spanned nearly two decades.

On her own since 2009 with the label Karen by Simonsen, she is steadfastly steering in her own direction with a new concept and DNA for her brand. Also eager to explore new possibilities, she’s now venturing into a collaboration with Danish eyewear manufacturer Prego.

For SS15 she has designed a collection of 18 pairs of sunglasses in four different color schemes, and while she is happy with the final result of the product, she is even more enthusiastic about the prospect of how beneficial co-branding can prove to be. Not only for her and Prego, but in general for others, who wants to take advantage of their individual strengths in new markets.

“I think it is very healthy for the fashion business to use co-branding to further your assets. You learn new things in the work process when you fuse with other creative people, you are pushed to the limit in a different way, and you get a different look at your ambitions once you have to share them with other equally driven professionals,” says Simonsen.

Prego is already an internationally distributed and successful brand, and

by choosing Karen Simonsen to lend her name, fame and fashion sense to a new collection, together they can open the eyes of new consumers.

“I will be exposed to a much larger target group, because they have a wider distribution, while Prego will get another kind of attention to their brand, because I bring more fashion to their design. Our individual brand values will lift us both, and this is an example of how co-branding can be good for smaller businesses wanting to branch out.”

Simonsen has taken her knack for trends to the design by combining her signature graphic geometrical shapes with a modern take on coolness and sophistication, with nods to denim for a contemporary classic look. The new thing in fashion is “denim labbing,” meaning to take denim into a lab and transferring the look and structure of the fabric to other surfaces. In her case, Karen Simonsen has given some of the frames the look of denim weave on the outside, while they’re blue on the inside.

“My motto is that “life is too short to blend in”, so given that most of us wear more or less the same type of jacket, pants and shoes, it is your personality that comes through when you choose your accessories. And I think a pair of cool graded shades can do just that,” says Simonsen.

PICK OF THE DAY

Editor-in-Chief Elsebeth Mouritzen loves summer blacks from Whiite.

FOLLOW FASHION WEEK FROM THE FRONT ROW

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NEWS

This season, fashion week is more accessible than ever for both fashion week attendees as well as fashionlovers. With the new app Copenhagen Fashion Week® you can see all runway photos as soon as they are published, view the schedules for Copenhagen Fashion Week and Copenhagen Fashion Festival, follow front row live-blogging by Stephanie

Gundelach and Pernille Rosendahl among others, and plan your fashion week activities with the My Schedule function. The app keeps you updated on industry activities such as trade fairs and fashion shows as well as festival events taking place all over Copenhagen that are open to everybody. Be sure to download the app from Apple’s app store to keep up!

SS15

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DANSK DAILY

BACK TO MODERN BASICS More and more brands look to contemporary fashion history for inspiration to hone and tone their DNA, and looking at the core values of Selected Femme and Selected Homme, the SS15 collections for both genders not only go hand in hand, but also draw inspiration from original tailoring, casual wear, and jeans.

For the male consumer, Selected Homme meets the demands of young urban professionals in their Heritage and Identity lines, where they can dress themselves laid back in casual clothes inspired by vintage menswear, and also find stylish suiting with details and fittings for a polished and refined look, be it for work or serious play.

The Indigo line, meanwhile, secures a contemporary take on the authentic jeans style.

His counterpart will dress for the new season in a minimalist and deconstructed take on the female wardrobe where the desired look is a graphic, slightly rough beauty. The shapes are loose with inspiration from the world of architecture, while details are inspired by clear, sporty cuts.

The Femme jeans are a vital part of the collection with a 1970s influence that adds a bold edge to the styling, and key looks like the culottes and the jumpsuit are must-haves that reinforce the strong feel of the era.

FONNESBECH TAKES A CUE FROM THE PAST Newcomer on the fashion show circuit Fonnesbech gives a nod to the glorious past of the namesake department store on Copenhagen’s “luxury mile,” Østergade, that dressed affluent and chic women until 1970, when the retail business was outphased.

The legendary building from the 1930s remains on the address and the modernist architecture can still be admired from the outside, but the exclusive designs in the finest of fabrics from designers like Lanvin, Schiaparelli and Christian Dior are long gone, having found new caretakers.

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NEWS

The family-run epicenter of exclusive garments has laid low

until now, as they project the heritage and signature onto a different venture, a fashion brand for women with designer Mette Julie Bundgaard Nielsen interpreting the DNA. The three key concepts are crafted, as in tailored and fitted in high-quality materials, high-performance, with a mix of hi-tech and traditional materials with intelligent benefits, and elegance in the Fonnesbech tradition with attention to details, cuts and silhouettes.

The debut collection is called “A” and draws inspiration from the building both in shape, color and materials.

#feelselected

meet us at holmen - Galionsvej 39, København K and at bella Center - Center boulevad 5, 2300 København s. - b3 011

WEDNESDAY AUGUST 06

DANSK DAILY

FOR LIFE ON THE MOVE

It all began with Gweneth. Two simple bags in black nylon that turned out to meet many women’s everyday needs and which became an instant success for DAY Birger et Mikkelsen.

New colors and prints have since been added to the Gweneth collection, and this season the collection will expand to six styles – among them a gym bag and a travel bag with wheels under the new label name “ét.” The Gweneth Sign collection also includes a babychanging bag and a bag with a yoga mat, both limited edition.

“The timeless Gweneth bags fit a life constantly on the move, where functionality is key. The makeup bag is designed to fit in a handbag, which then fits in a travel bag,” says Keld

Mikkelsen, founder of DAY Birger et Mikkelsen.

“The expansion of our accessories label “ét” stems from a wish to create something special, where the nylon bag isn’t just another shopping tote, but a practical and cool bag that can be used for everything from shopping and meetings to yoga, brunch, and travel”, says Mikkelsen.

Stepping up the accessories line, selected items will also be featured in leather for those seeking a sharper and elegant look. And to complete the looks of both the casual and glamorous lines for SS15, DAY is adding the perfect mix-and-match item, the scarf (long a strength of theirs) with a floral print and fringes.

THE JEWELLERY ROOM Rihanna sporting Maria Black, Georg Jensen displayed on the cover of Vogue, and Katy Perry spotted overloaded with Line&Jo earrings. Danish jewelry design truly has become a significant part of the international fashion scene, and thus an important part of Copenhagen Fashion Week.

The aesthetic showroom, The Jewellery Room, repeats the success and unites the very best of Danish jewelry design for the third time this fashion week, providing them with an opportunity to showcase their designs for both domestic as well as international press.

The showroom is open August 7, 10.30-17.00, The Royal Academy of Music, Rosenørns Allé 22, Frederiksberg For more info go to www.copenhagenfashionweek.com/schedules

KEEP THE BUSINESS IN COPENHAGEN

With a new look, but also a statement, Vision returns to the Øksnehallen premises looking like a miniature Copenhagen under the theme We Do Business.

JOIN THE FASHION FESTIVITIES AT FASHION SQUARE Copenhagen Fashion Festival is a public celebration of fashion – and you are invited!

At Nytorv, the otherwise exclusive fashion week is open to the public as Copenhagen Fashion Festival transforms the urban space into Fashion Square. Treat yourself to a free hairstyling at the TRESemmé Blow-Out Bar, have your photo taken covered in sparkling Pilgrim jewelry, and find the perfect pair of sunglasses in the Carrera popup shop all the while watching the latest shows from the Copenhagen Fashion Week runways on the big screen.

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NEWS

Swing by and join the celebration from Wednesday, August 6 – Saturday, August 9 at Nytorv. Be there or be square!

See more at www.copenhagenfashionfestival.com

The aim is to continue the branding of Copenhagen as a major player in the European fashion market, and by making it interesting to stay at the fair a little bit longer, they hope to keep the business going, keeping it in Denmark.

Buyers and brands are met by a Nordic Heritage concept throughout with a replica of Kongens Have (the King’s Garden park) for indoor relaxation, the rows between exhibitors are named after famous streets in the city such as Nyhavn and Kongens Nytorv, complete with lamp posts, and the café features the famous skyline with all the old towers and spires.

- It’s important for us to create a Copenhagen identity for our foreign visitors to make us stand out in the crowd, says brand and buyer coordinator, Maya Barfoed.

AUTUMN COLLECTION 2014 BY PILGRIM

JOIN US @PILGRIMJEWELLERY / WWW.PILGRIM.DK / FIND NEAREST STORE AT PILGRIM.DK/STORES

WEDNESDAY AUGUST 06

DANSK DAILY

FASHION RESISTANCE Rebellion and aggression as motivating factors in fashion is not a new thing. The “no future” slogans of the 70s punk era as an attack on the niceness and normality of the bourgeoisie was the outer symbols of a youth movement that later became embraced and interpreted by the fashion industry, probably to the dismay of the grassroots movements.

However, it kickstarted a new phase in high fashion, where designers like Alexander McQueen, Maison Martin Margiela, Comme des Garcons, Hussein Chalayan and not least Vivienne Westwood dared to challenge the common taste with their non-conformist approach to fashion, thus creating a new aesthetic that is still an inspiration for aspiring designers.

This important period and movement in contemporary fashion is the topic for an exhibition at The HEART museum in Herning, opening on October 4. “Clash – Rebellion in Fashion” is curated by Ane Lynge Jorlén and Michael Bank Christoffersen, and together they will bring the most fantastic creations of the international designers on view, but also lend space to six new design talents with the challenge of giving their suggestions for future fashion rebellion.

VANITY FAIR IN PRIME TIME If anything, fashion week is a vanity fair, and Denmark’s cultural TV-channel, DRK, once again celebrates by devoting their prime airtime untill Friday to catwalk reports, interviews, documentaries and film.

Full-time fashion expert at DRK Chris Pedersen, formerly an editor at Cover magazine, turns his keen eye on trends and events, front row and backstage, interviewing key fashion players for his daily news report.

In between, the small screen will feature documentaries on jewelry emporium Cartier and icons such as model Kate Moss, photographer Bill Cunningham and filmstar Brigitte Bardot, among others.

This week is also the launch pad of Chris Pedersen’s new fashion serial, The Vain,

where he seeks out six different environments to discover the diverse uses of vanity, and explores how it signals social and cultural identity. This brings him closer to botox and burlesque, rockabilly and beauty pageants, night clubbing – and dinner in the nude.

His own vanity? “Having always worked with fashion, it has been culturally based.

In the beginning, it was important for me to mark my understanding of other aspects of art, even the avant-garde. Lately, having grown up, I am no longer as focused on how other people perceive me, but I still like people to think I am on top of things, and a good book collection is a priority.

Regarding fashion, I guess I am still vain, but I have created some sort of uniform that makes it easier to handle”.

Photo: Bjarne B. Hermansen/DR.

Q&A MADS EMIL MOLLER

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NEWS

Fashion Editor, Cover Man, and founder of the lifestyle blog Créol Brothers (www.creolbrothers.com) What do you have in your bag during fashion week?

My camera, iPhone, gum and water.

Which event are you attending?

Too many!

Who do you follow during fashion week on social media?

The same peeps that I follow all year. Everybody from athletes and musicians to your local cool cats and politicians.

Which party are you attending?

The Astrid Andersen party on Thursday and the Cover party on Friday.

What do you have on your Ipod, and what is the best fashion song ever?

I don’t have an iPod. Best fashion song ever - is there such a thing?

Which brands do you think it’s important to keep an eye on?

Oh, there are so many good ones right now. Definitely Astrid Andersen, CMMN SWDN, Caseley-Hayford, Christopher Shannon, Alex Mattsson, Martin Asbjørn Bjerre and Nicklas Kunz - to name a few.

What’s the one thing you couldn’t live without this CFW? A cap.

What to eat during fashion week?

Healthy food and quick snacks.

Which show do you look forward to the most?

Wali Mohammed Barrech.

Do you have a survival tips for fashion week?

Get enough sleep.

M l o c Mc l a la M re n te hi -W ff o

c/o VirG il aB loh

crystal hall Bella center copenhagen

exhibition 3-6 august 2014 ciff.dk

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DANSK DAILY

DAVID The past inside the future A NDERS EN WORDS Sille Henning PHOTO Copenhagen Fashion Week

It was a stunning location designer David Andersen had chosen for his show yesterday, one of Copenhagen’s eldest buildings, Christian IV’s brewery house.

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SHOWS

We arrived for a live performance of the Danish National Girls’ Choir (of course dressed in black gowns designed by Andersen himself ) before entering the venue, where the models were walking the runway between old historical statues. It was the perfect symbol of the past meeting the future, as also reflected by the designer’s revisiting his own past and the simpler and more rigorous look from his early design days.

As always – and something that has become his signature by now – the show was kept strictly in black and white, opened by six white looks followed by all blacks – with just a little hint of white. To some it might sound boring and unimaginative, but it definitely was not. The richness in the materials and combination of textures easily made colors redundant.

The bomber jacket was one of the collection’s key items and a personal favorite in its knitted leather version with lacquered print detailing

on the sleeves – both in a male and female version. The black double-breasted waistcoat mixed with perforated leather shorts quite well, underlining the scope of the collection with tailoring and sporty references.

Amongst the favorites were also the long neoprene dress with a voluptuous skirt as well as the white biker neoprene jacket mixed with a white blazer and slim pants and the many tailored blazers and sweatshirts with leather details.

Overall it was a great collection from David Andersen. The simpler silhouettes and cleaner styles suited him well.

WEDNESDAY AUGUST 06

DANSK DAILY

B ARB A R A I GONGIN I WORDS Lotte Freddie PHOTO Copenhagen Fashion Week

Cult clothes

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SHOWS

A sinister army of orcs ended Barbara i Gongini’s show – the official opening show of Copenhagen Fashion Week. Or so it felt as the Faroese designer presented her sustainable collections – the men’s “Collection 4” and the women’s “Collection 21”. “Fashion is important,” Sophie Hæstorp Andersen, Chairman of the Regional Council, had proclaimed in City Hall at the official Copenhagen Fashion Week press conference prior to Barbara i Gongini’s show. The chairman illustrated one of the reasons for the popularity of the growing Danish fashion industry

by quoting Vanessa Friedman of The New York Times, who has named CFW “the greenest fashion week around”.

This stamp of approval Barbara i Gongini is the perfect designer to personify. Her design, yesterday accompanied by the music of Faroese act ORKA, is a wholly sustainable brand – made of organic linen, cotton, jersey, knit, lamb, goat, and horse leather. Men and women alike are dressed in grey or black asymmetrical layers of jackets, capes, long vests and dresses in intricate cuts. Women’s skirts – often long in front, short

in the back – alternate with the men’s shorts and short Berber trousers. Pointed seams, lapels and panels flow airily from the body or are wrapped and tied around other layers. A pair of “twins” – two women coiffed with high frizzy red hair falling to the floor in the back, both dressed in black layers with one bare shoulder, strangely beautiful and powerful – resembled the red-headed designer herself, whose avant-garde design is not for the faint-hearted but for the very chosen few.

22 - 24 AUGUST 2014

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WEDNESDAY AUGUST 06

DANSK DAILY

V ERONIC A A soft touch B. VA LL EN ES WORDS Moussa Mchangama PHOTO Copenhagen Fashion Week

Why a small exhibition of brands in the entrance hall to the Gallery show scene at the old Royal Danish Academy of Music has ever seemed like a good idea, we’ll never know. It gave guests something to look at, but looked cheap and unfinished.

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SHOWS

Not the best first impression prior to a fashion show, but luckily something you can’t blame on Veronica B. Vallenes, who has had quite the following since winning the Max Factor Award in 2010. She presented a summery collection, but it wasn’t her most inspiring to date.

Named ‘Calling All Hearts’ it was consistent with what she’s shown before: clean, soft, effortless silhouettes in neutral colors with a dash of red and blue.

As with previous shows, the models wore jewelry

by Bjørg, but this time it felt different; maybe because the jewellery didn’t steal the moment, and made it look overtly styled. It was much more coherent, as the styling underlined that these are everyday clothes made to be worn.

They’re not loud or trendsetting, but there are some nice, clean pieces among them: the floor-length dresses were fine, pants with a cut at the knee worked well, the thin turtleneck blouses are an easy sell.

There were, however, styles that should never have been shown. A pair of slouchy white trousers was ill-fitting, while a shorts set in red (p)leather looked cheap. That’s a shame, because it brought down the overall impression of a show that highlighted the importance of nice wardrobe staples.

PREGO EYEWEAR – WWW.PREGOEYEWEAR.DK

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DANSK DAILY

FREYA DALS JO WORDS Sille Henning PHOTO Copenhagen Fashion Week

More than ready-to-wear I was very much looking forward to yesterday’s Freya Dalsjø show. I’ve followed the designer from the beginning, and it’s been interesting to see how she’s slowly developed her design DNA. Now on her fifth show, she’s starting to refine it with a steady hand.

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SHOWS

There were of course references to previous collections, like color combinations playing an essential part in the collection and a new interpretation of the kimono in wool and silk mixed with wide pants. But there was also a newness

in the many drapings, and in the constructed and deconstructed silhouettes, like the oneshoulder dress, the asymmetrical skirts, and a jacket’s skewed closure – in addition to Dalsjø’s reinterpretation of the classical suit. Beautiful brooches in silver and pearl were also used to create new shapes and silhouettes.

The print of the season, an abstract paintbrush pattern, was not only used on silk but also embellished with semi-precious stones, and was even seen on shaved mink fur, adding a 3D-feel

to the collection. Fur was also a key element in the shoes, where physiological MBT sandals had gotten a trendy update with colored mink.

Even though Freya Dalsjø named her collection ‘Ready to Wear’ to underline that she wanted to make a more commercial collection this time, in which all the pieces can be put into production, you didn’t get the feeling that she in any way compromised her artistic vision – on the contrary, it was a beautiful and inspiring collection.

Well done, Freya!

INTERVIEW

FREDERIKKE TOFTSØ

BLOGGER

Describe a regular day for you during Copenhagen Fashion Week.

I start off with a yoga class or a run. Then I blog, eat breakfast and walk my dog. After that, I head off to 2-4 shows that I’ve picked out. If I’m lucky, my schedule aligns with my friends Tikkie, who blogs at Adélie, and Sidsel who works with PR at Mads Nørgaard and blogs at Fashionpolish. Then we have lunch at Pastis, gossip and Instagram a bit. There are so many interesting people in the city during fashion week, so I’ll probably have a few meetings in the city and some appointments at the fairs. At night, there’s bound to be a show that I’ll want to see and on my way home I’ll grab a falafel and try to get to bed as early as possible in order to be ready for another day.

How did you end up in fashion?

I was in high school and got offered the opportunity to assist Frederik Andersen when he was the fashion editor at Arena. He taught me lots about sneakers, the industry and styling. I knew it was something I was going to pursue and after nearly 10 years in retail, PR, at magazines and doing styling, I’ve find my place as a fashion blogger, entrepreneur and consultant.

Can you offer one piece of advice for someone wanting to pursue a career within your field?

Find out what you’re good at and then team up with someone that’s good at something you’re not.

Does Copenhagen Fashion Week offer anything unique?

I think all the trade fairs here do a fantastic job in making everything work and creating something special. All the events and new ideas that come about are great. I think Copenhagen covers all bases and that’s really cool.

WWW. CPHVISION .DK

WEDNESDAY AUGUST 06

DANSK DAILY

WALI MOHAMMED s.o.s, please B ARRECH WORDS Moussa Mchangama PHOTO Copenhagen Fashion Week

First things first: thank the lord that someone thinks out of the box and delivers a completely different show. Held in a big parking house, Wali Mohammed Barrech held his dystopian show late Tuesday night, and well… While it surely was a show, it was too much.

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SHOWS

It all started with skin-tight halterneck body suits in a print taken from something like Google Earth, coordinates and all. Surveillance society, there you have it. But as the show progressed, it seemed the young Antwerptrained designer wanted to make too much of a point: suddenly the lights went out (it

was on purpose), the photographers couldn’t take pictures. And yeah, we got the point (who’s surveilling who?). Lights back on, a fog of smoke started, the sprinklers went on, a Toyota Yaris emerged, got parked, driver exits. Complete dystopia, it seemed. In a parking house a Tuesday night in Copenhagen, mind you.

Sadly, it took way too much focus from the collection. That’s a shame, because although

the show was way too long and should have been edited more, his designs are great: tech fabrics, Japanese references (especially on the sandals), plastics, neoprene, mesh, bold coloring and a good development from his very successful fall show. Slouchy silhouettes contrasted by the skin tight, menswear mixed with womenswear in an effortless way.

He’s a great designer, and he’s got a bright future ahead of him, but there’s something too student-y about wanting to do it all at the same time, all the time. Sometimes, a strong point can be made without all the noise.

INTERVIEW

LIV BARFOED

STYLIST

material for next season’s photo shoots. I round off the day by going to a wide range of shows and press events and writing about next season’s fashion trends on my blog at www.stylefashion.dk.

How did you end up in the industry?

I’m a trained designer from Margrethe-Skolen but since 1984 I’ve combined my design education with styling. I was the first stylist in Denmark and I’m actually featured in Trivial Pursuit!

Can Copenhagen Fashion week offer the world anything special?

For me, fashion week means networking – both with clients and colleagues. Around these parts we have a nicely relaxed and creative atmosphere plus a good mixture of Danish and International design.

What does your day look like during Copenhagen Fashion Week?

I start off with checking out all the trade fairs and getting an idea about which trends and tendencies dominate. After that, I set up appointments with the exhibiting companies concerning loans of

Dansk Hudpleje Der Virker

Paradox Serie

Kraftig anti-age dagcreme og Serum med GSPE, der lægger sig dybt ned i huden med langtidsvirkende anti-age effekt.

Serum Paradoxe udjævnende effekt gør lideledes at huden straks fremstår parat til den perfekte make-up.

Can you offer some advice to a prospective stylist?

You have to want it with all your heart, remove your blinkers and be prepared for the fact that holidays, time off and lunches come last!

What inspires you when it comes to fashion as a phenomenon?

That everything is allowed! Only your own imagination sets the boundaries.

What do you think will be a general trend for SS15?

I believe in individuality – mixed with ”modern romance” – where a mixture of Japanese print, blondes and modern male tailoring comes first.

beaute-pacifique.dk

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WWW. Udviklet CPHVISION og produceret i Danmark .DK Made In Denmark

09/07/14 09.28

WEDNESDAY AUGUST 06

DANSK DAILY

Ac t ress S a ra h S o phi e Flicke r and K anye We s t’ s creative manage r Vi rgi l Abl oh a re s o ri ch th e y’ ve outs ource d th e ir s e l fie -tak ing a c t iv i tie s to l ike , oth e r pe opl e .

Virgil Abl oh ne ve r received the headwear memo and s e e s no reason to apologi ze.

D e sig n co n su lt a n t s N a n c y S t a n n a rd a n d G a r y Robins on pre dict an a n t i-ch ro m a t ic revolu t i o n fo r n ex t s ea s o n’ s fa s hions and if you don’ t a g re e yo u’ re a n o - g o o d z ero w ho w i l l n ever, eve r reach th e uppe r e chel o n s o f t he i n t ern a t i o n a l fa s hi o n worl d.

A ge ntl e s ir curre ntly work ing on h is pe rs onal proj e ct “ Fifty Sh ade s of Be ige.”

Sporty beauty f lanked by two hai r-product experi mentali sts, V1 Gallery’s Jesper Elg and Chart’s Si mon Fri i se.

CIF F E X H I B I T ION PHOTOS – RA S MU S MA LMS TROM

WO RD S – MAG NU S J OR E M

M a lcolm M cL a ren a n d Vi rgi l Abl oh, t wo v i s i onarie s from diffe re nt ge ne rations , s h are th e l ime l igh t in C r y s tal Hall CIF F i n an exhi bi ti on that celebrates the mutual influe nce of fas h ion, mus ic, and l ife s ty l e .

PAGE 24

V.I.P. VERY IMPORTANT PRINCESSES

Silly-n illy f a sh ion d es i g n ers A s t ri d An d ers en a n d Na sir M a z h a r s ha re a joke t ha t t o t a l ly ba ffl es Co t t wei l er ’ s M a t t Da i n t y.

Rappe r Ke s i’ s We ssss ide s ign l anguage is me t only by cringe -inducing s ke pticis m from artis t manage r Wah id and C I FF’ s P R manage r Janne .

Fu r M a g a z i n e’ s M i n a co w i t h girl frie nds C e cil ie and Vee a rrived by m otorcycl e .

Art Comes F i rst’s Sam and Shaka are so d apper they cover thei r bathroom crapper wi th g old -f oi l wrapper.

Tak ing picture s of th e s e three was li ke herd i ng cats.

Syversen_DanskDaily Aug2014_Layout 1 31/07/14 10.30 Side 1

Ciff Copenhagen 3-6 August 2014 Stand B5-014

Moteforum Oslo 11-17 August 2014 Rom 416

WWW.SYVERSEN.COM

Stockholm Fashion Week 11-17 August 2014 Stand TSR 2.06

WEDNESDAY AUGUST 06

DANSK DAILY

Singer and tv-personality Lina Rafn relieved that this season won't be all about her (real? contrived? imagined?) beef with that wretched pretentious streetwear creator, may his name not be mentioned.

Instagram sensation Patrick Pankalla demonstrating his famous head-tilted-upto-be-closer-to-Jesus pose.

DJ-ruler of Kødbyen Thursdays Christel Pixie Siebenhaar is still rubbing her former baby-container.

We all know the feeling, Superbial. Where do the hands go?

Where do you look? Should stiffen your back? If you stare into the camera, does it stare back into you?

The popular music band formerly known as THE EUROZONE CRISIS: Euroman's Frede Andersen with Eurowoman's Beauty-Bea and Gertrud Bønnelykke.

R&B singer "Karen" is considering launching a fashion collection called "Karen by Rosenberg."

HI LFI GER B REA KFAST P H OTO S – H E L E N A L U N D Q U I S T

W O R D S – M AG N U S J O R E M

Tuesday morning, the Tommy Hilfiger store hosted a fabulously attended fashion breakfast with a sneak preview of the label's Spring 2015 collection.

PAGE 26

V.I.P. VERY IMPORTANT PRINCESSES

Camilla Ottesen is perhaps best known internationally as the presenter of the 2003 Junior Eurovision Song Contest, for which she wore a shiny gold-scaled dress creation. Google it.

Taking a break from her busy "on-the-run" lifestyle, Frederikke Brasch poses with YouHeShe's Lulu and Natasha in a classic "blogger-trio-awkward-chic" fashion that simply captivates the lens.

Hilfiger country director Jesper Wærum says "thanks, but no thanks" to fashion conventions and in a rebellious fashion sure to upset the main corporate offices wore his tie that one naughty inch too short.

With her steadfast investor-searches at fashion events, actress Julie Zangenberg is on a mission to save boyfriend Nicklas Bendnter's jewelry enterprise from nigh-on-certain financial doom.

DJ/journalist Harvey Ambobo is like, what gives?

PRD's Henrik and Pascal are more PR-maven in attitude than ANTM's Kelly Cutrone could ever dream of becoming.

WEDNESDAY AUGUST 06

DANSK DAILY

Inspired by his muse, countess Cath Danneskiold, purveyor of luxury goods Alf Cruise showed some serious leg action.

Fashion writer Yu Masui seemed kinda cranky this season in contrast to his jolly icecream-cone couture look.

DAFI's Johan Kryger is all about tablecloth-chic for the SS15 season.

Slumblogmillionærblog 's Amalie is always the smartest person in the room and therefore suffers from an eternal sense of loneliness.

Back from Berghain with yet another twinkalicious companion, stylist Christian Schleisner enjoyed his hair of the dog.

Wrapped in her favorite Freya Dalsjø superhero cape, CFW-maven Anne Persson tapped her inner mental mutant powers to generate a three-meter forcefield around her to keep the masses at bay.

B ARB A RA I GO NGI N I P H OTO S – H E L E N A L U N D Q U I S T

W O R D S – M AG N U S J O R E M

Barbara i Gongini means "Barbara in the Hall" in Faroese, and my if she hadn't attracted quite the crowd to City Hall Tuesday for the first day of CFW.

Stylists Nico Glad Golden and Andres Somebobby don't give a crap about the environment in general but would love to save the polar bears.

DAFI's Cecilie had customized her own dress in the shape of a Hershey's kiss wrapper.

Electric Lady Lab's Stine wore Barbara i Gongini's favorite color.

Henrik Vibskov's Rune Park ditched the wizard look in the summer heat in favor of a pared-down darkroom butcher image.

PAGE 27

V.I.P. VERY IMPORTANT PRINCESSES

Three unlikely yet sincere contenders for the Iron Throne of Westeros: Minister for Environmental Affairs Kirsten Brosbøl with DAFI-boss Eva Kruse and Minster of Trade and Development Mogens Jensen.

WEDNESDAY AUGUST 06

DANSK DAILY

DANS K M a g a zi n e’ s Uffe B u cha rd n ever e n t e rs a p a lace w i t ho u t d ress i n g i n s ho rt s a n d a t - s hi rt .

And th e n, l ike , Vane ss a Frie dman was l ike , s us tainabl e fas h ion i s an oxy moron, and I th ink th at’ s l ike real ly offe ns ive , b e caus e pe opl e w h o care ab out th e e nv ironme nt are l ike de finite ly not morons .

Kra n z - a d d i c t s s pa rkl i n g w i t h ex cite me nt ove r b e j e we l e d goodie -b ag pros pe cts .

B utlers i n soccer-player pose.

T h e s e p alace resi d ents just sort of stumbled upon the jewelry recepti on.

KR AN Z & Z I E G L E R PHOTOS – JA KOB MYD TS KOV

WO R D S – MAGNU S J O R E M

Kra n z & Z ie gl er ho s t ed t hei r a n n u a l press event at th e Fre de rik s b e rg C as tl e w ith an afte rnoon tea party and presentati on of the Ad d i cted To Jewelry Collecti on.

PAGE 28

V.I.P. VERY IMPORTANT PRINCESSES

Yawn , I t h o u ght we were fi l m i n g a n o t her Va p o rwave m u s i c v i d eo, t hes e bi t ches a re like t o t es n o rm co re.

Man of th e h our Mads Zie gl e r s pe nds h is j e we l r y fortune s on pina col adas , k ayak s , and extre me ly expe ns ive afte rs un l otions .

Na il pol i s h chem i s t Ken ny A l eks a n d r w ith gr umpy fe mal e company.

Costume’s web ed i tor knows that you can’t be a successf ul i nternati onal i nternet prof essi onal wi thout matchi ng your beverage wi th your hai r dye.

DAN SK Magazine’s U f f e B uchard tri es to i mpress d i sbeli evi ng re dh ead w ith hi s extensive knowled g e of Portuguese si gn languag e.

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WEDNESDAY AUGUST 06

DANSK DAILY

E V EN T S

WEDNESDAY - AUGUST 6, 2014

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK 10.00-12.00 C OV ER BRUNC H Jul ius T h oms e ns P l ads , Fre de rik s b e rg C · By inv itation only 17 . 0 0-18.00 FASHION DESIGN AC ADEMY – GRADUATI ON MOVI E T H E RO YAL DAN I S H ACAD E M Y O F M U S I C · Ros e nørns Al l é 22, Fre de rik s b e rg C · O pe n to all vi si tors on Gallery trad e f ai r 19.00-22.00 OUT O F T HE BL UE C HAR LOT T E N B O RG · T h e Royal Danis h Acade my of Fine Arts , He ib e rgs gade 11, C openhagen K · B y i nvi tati on only

21 . 3 0- 23.00 C L O SE UP AND P RIVAT E X L EAT HERP RO JECTS RE LE AS E GALLE R I NAB O LØ S · L ars bj ørnss træde 10, C ope nh age n K · O p en to all

COPENHAGEN FASHION FESTIVAL DAILY E V E NTS AUGUST 7-9 / FASHION SQ UARE 12.00-18.00 / Ny tor v, C ope nh age n K AUGUST 3-6 / FASHION FO RUM GO ES L IV E @CI FF S u n d ay – Wed n e s day 13-14 / C iff, C e nte r Auditorium, Be l l a C e nte r, C e nte r Boul evard 5 , Copenhag en S AUGUST 4-10 / EX HIBIT IO NS AT NIKO L AJ KUNSTHAL Monday - Saturday 10-18, and Sunday 10-16 N ew N ordic Fas h ion , T h e Royal Danis h Acade my of Fine Arts – T h e School of Desi g n C réate urs C apture d , C ope nh age n Fas h ion Fil m x Be rl in Fas h ion Fil m Festival N ikol aj Kuns th al, N ikol aj P l ads 10, C ope nh age n K

S H OW S CH ED U L E

BY INVITATIONS ONLY

T HE O N SHOW SC HEDUL E 10 . 0 0 M U NT HE · GALLE R I TO M C H R I STO F F E R S E N · Sk inde rgad e 5 , Copenhagen K 11 . 0 0 M A RK K EN LY DO MINO TAN · D E N F R I E U D ST I LLI N G S BYG N I N G · Oslo Plad s 1 , Copenhagen Ø 12 . 0 0 GANNI · M E RC U R H OT E L · Ve s te r Farimags gade 17, C op enhag en V 14 . 0 0 BAU M U N D P FERDGART EN · D E N F R I E U D ST I LLI N G S BYG N I N G · Oslo Plad s 1 , Copenhag en Ø 15 . 0 0 DESIGNERS' NEST · Ø KS N E HALLE N · Hal mtove t 11, Copenhag en V 16 . 0 0 M A D S N O RG A A RD · D E T KO N G E LI G E DAN S K E KU N STAK AD E M I · C h arl ot tenborg, Hei bergsg ad e 1 1 , Copenhagen K 17 . 0 0 MI-NO-RO · O R AN G E R I E T · Kronprins e ss e gade 13, C openhag en K 18 . 0 0 DESIGNERS REMIX · S E B BAN K E N · Be rns torffs gade 50, Copenhagen V 19.00 BRUUNS BAZAAR · Sil ke gade 8, 1113 C ope nh agen K 20 . 0 0 H A N KJO BENHAV N · HALM LAG E R E T · T h or val d Binde s b øl l s Plad s, Copenhag en V

PAGE 30

EVENTS / SHOW SCHEDULE

21 . 0 0 BY MAL ENE BIRGER · PAP I RØ E N · Trangrav s ve j 18-20 , Copenhagen K

T HE O FF SHOW SC HEDUL E 11.00 LAHTI INSTITUTE OF DESIGN AND FINE ARTS · ROYAL DANISH ACADEMY OF MUSIC · Rosenørns Alle 22, 1970 Frederiksberg C 12 . 0 0 2O R+ B Y YAT · ROYAL DANISH ACADEMY OF MUSIC · Rosenørns Alle 22, 1970 Frederiksberg C 13 . 0 0 EL IT E MO DEL L O OK · O R AN G E R I E T · Kronprins e ss e gade 1 3 , Copenhagen K 14 .00 MAX JENNY ! · R ÅD H U S E T · Rådh us pl ade s n 1, C ope nhag en V 17 . 0 0 HENRIKSILV IUS · R ÅD H U S E T · Rådh us pl ade s n 1, C op enhag en V

FO R M O R E EV E N T S AN D S H OW D E TAI LS G O TO www. co p e n h a g enf a shionf estiva l. com

INTERVIEW

LIV BARFOED

STYLIST

How did you end up in the industry?

I’m a trained designer from Margrethe-Skolen but since 1984 I’ve combined my design education with styling. I was the first stylist in Denmark and I’m actually featured in Trivial Pursuit!

What does your day look like during Copenhagen Fashion Week?

I start off with checking out all the trade fairs and getting an idea about which trends and tendencies dominate. After that, I set up appointments with the exhibiting companies concerning loans of

Can you offer some advice to a prospective stylist?

You have to want it with all your heart, remove your blinkers and be prepared for the fact that holidays, time off and lunches come last!

material for next season’s photo shoots. I round off the day by going to a wide range of shows and press events and writing about next season’s fashion trends on my blog at www.stylefashion.dk.

Can Copenhagen Fashion week offer the world anything special?

For me, fashion week means networking – both with clients and colleagues. Around these parts we have a nicely relaxed and creative atmosphere plus a good mixture of Danish and International design.

What inspires you when it comes to fashion as a phenomenon?

That everything is allowed! Only your own imagination sets the boundaries.

What do you think will be a general trend for SS15?

I believe in individuality – mixed with ”modern romance” – where a mixture of Japanese print, blondes and modern male tailoring comes first.

WWW. CPHVISION .DK

w w w . D AY. D K