THE DA ILY COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
Autumn / Winter 2016
TALKING HEADS
HENRIK VIBSKOV
ECLECTIC MIX
TONSURE
GRUNGE GIRLS
LALA BERLIN
URBAN LUXE
HAN KJØBENHAVN
No. 2
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
No.2 Autumn Winter 2016
February 4
IT’S RAINING MEN ELSEBETH MOURITSEN
And judging from the positive reception from the rest of the attendees, the Tonsure show may just have marked the beginning of a new era for Danish menswear.
Editor-in-Chief
It is often said that in many relationships, the wife is the one responsible for shopping for the man’s wardrobe. If that is also the case in royal circles as well, perhaps our Crown Prince Frederik will turn out looking even spiffier in the time to come. At least, his fashion-conscious wife, Crown Princess Mary, sat front row at the opening show of award-winning Danish menswear brand Tonsure yesterday afternoon, and even if all the styles might not have been fit for a king-to-be, she seemed pleased with what she saw.
- Because something is definitely cooking. According to The Daily’s critic Jeppe Ugelvig, who reviewed the Tonsure opening show, it seems as if a gust of fresh air is sweeping the Danish menswear scene of seasoned, middleweight designers in general. And the trade association has the numbers to prove it. The market has seen a remarkable growth in 2015, making it a record-breaking year, largely due to an increasingly strong identity on Danish design for men. This has lead the governing body of Copenhagen Fashion Week to take advantage of the recovery in the economy and the growing interest of alternative views on masculine dress to give the younger generation of designers special attention on the show schedule this season. Brands like Henrik Vibskov, Han Kjøbenhavn, Astrid Andersen, Asger Juel Larsen and Soulland have paved the way, and their success both domestically and abroad has inspired Copenhagen Fashion Week to consider
taking menswear branding to the next level for the SS17 shows and trade fairs in August. The “big four” – Paris, London, Milan and New York – have for a long time had special men’s fashion weeks, separate from the women’s ready to wear. That may not be happening in the near future here, but the idea of up scaling menswear in general, and using the hype of the Nordic man and his strong fashion looks - in particular as brand-positioning, with a single day devoted to men’s shows and events, perhaps it’s own venue even, seems like a natural and clever move from the organizers,. In the words of Kristian Jensen, Minister of Foreign Affairs, who inaugurated the fashion week prior to the Tonsure show - some of the designs that rock the menswear right now, may be a little too bold for Parliament, but he acknowledged the influence, it might have on a broader scale in the time to come. Let’s hope that Tonsure will be one of the torch bearers of this innovation.
Check out the show schedule at C O P E N H A G E N FA S H I O N W E E K . C O M & download our free app for more details go to C O P E N H A G E N FA S H I O N F E S T I VA L . C O M
CONTRIBUTORS
copenhagenfashionweek.com
PUBLISHER: Copenhagen Fashion Week
COPY EDITING: Louis Vernal
COVER PHOTO: Luka Roné
DISTRIBUTION: Signe Hye Mouritzen, Camilla Falkvist
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: Elsebeth Mouritzen
ART DIRECTOR: Marie Brodersen
PRINT: Berlingske Avistryk
DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR: Anne Christine Persson
GRAPHIC ASSISTANT: Anna Dyrberg Knudsen
PHOTOGRAPHERS: Luka Roné, Helena Lundquist, Victor Jones. All show photos provided by Copenhagen Fashion Week.
ASSISTANT EDITOR: Frederik Højgaard
WRITERS: Sille Henning, Lotte Freddie, Jeppe Ugelvig, Pernille Hammershøj Madsen
THE DAILY
SALES: Julie Steenstrup
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@PILGRIMJEWELLERY
No.2 Autumn Winter 2016
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
February 4
ONE-STOP JEWELLERY DESTINATION It started as a DAFI-supported window to the world, showing that Danish high-end fashion and design, jewellery is also in a league of its own, and deserves as much attention as the clothes. In the few years The Jewellery Room presentation for media and business professionals has been a part of Copenhagen Fashion Week, the serious focus on jewellery as important fashion accessories, has proved so successful that Swedish and Norwegian brands on the same high level are wooing the curators, sisters Pernille Møbjerg Knudsen and Charlotte Møbjerg Ansel-Henry of Goldmind Communication, to be part of it. This has transformed The Jewellery Room, taking place tomorrow at Nikolaj Kunsthal, into a Scandinavian platform with the strongest names and most interesting news in contemporary goldsmithing and jewellery design. Boasting 24 exhibitors, The Jewellery Room welcomes one of Norway’s most innovative and characteristic brands, Bjørg Jewellery, known for challenging design and campaigns. - And we could add more, if the space permitted. We now get requests from German and English brands to join our one-day showcase,
because they can see how big an exposure we are able to give the individual brands, says Pernille Møbjerg Knudsen. To meet the growing demand for constant updates between the fashion weeks, Goldmind Communication has created a separate website, thejewelleryroom.dk, as an online one-stop destination for journalists or buyers, where they can find the newest, hippest, and coolest brands emerging, still curated by the Goldmind owners. - We are excited to present upcoming brands FaconFacon, NordbyThomsen and Lei Foo, but we are also happy that the ‘old guard’, among those Ole Lynggaard Copenhagen, Georg Jensen, Pandora and Shamballa Jewels, still see the value of this jewellery community, concludes Pernille Møbjerg Knudsen.
GOOD INTENTIONS Sustainability is high on the official Danish agenda for future fashion weeks, but new local brand AMOV takes all good intentions a step further with profit matching on their clothes by donating money to charity. AMOV was created based on inspiration from Einstein, who said: “Try not to become a man of success, but rather A Man Of Value”. The founder, Kasper Eis, wanted to create a value based business, where he and his collaborators wish to be as responsible as possible, and this they are doing through the following principles - sustainable materials (as a minimum, certified organic materials), responsible production (cooperation with Danish partners that have worked with sustainable production since 1983), and design for longevity (high quality and contemporary fashion).
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- Every piece of apparel has a unique code and can be sold on our platform with support for charities, and we do profit matching, so for every $1 we earn, we raise $1 for charity, says Kasper Eis, adding: - We collaborate with leading artists, so together we can raise awareness and money for charity. On our first collection, we cooperate with rapper/producer Pharfar to raise money for good causes. One of the projects to benefit from the selfless attitude is the NGO Fair Welcome, a cause close to the heart of Pharfar, meant to secure a fair and warm welcome of refugees to Denmark. - Over time, we want to seek out other possibilities like placing the support closer to our production, or supporting other new entrepreneurs, concludes Kasper Eis.
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COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
No.2 Autumn Winter 2016
February 4
WHAT WOMEN WANT Renowned Danish fashion designer Karen Simonsen is already successful with her cutting edge Karen by Simonsen line, but for the AW16 season, she adds a new, smaller capsule collection called ONE. The philosophy behind it is to create a well-balanced wardrobe of classic pieces based on timeless lines for the working woman. ONE came to mind as women kept asking me how to dress for all the different activities of the day. Just as I don’t want to carry a suitcase to work or wear the wrong clothing, I saw the need for something versatile; when you need to look professional at work, be a comfy Mom when picking up the kids, and when having fun with friends after hours. So the working title was, and still is, “how to create a timeless piece of design that caters for all occasion”, explains Karen Simonsen. Her answer to that task was to meet the needs of women, understand who they are and where they are going.
- The collection started with a good report on sociology and a fashion forecast, from there we took it through the design phase, where ideas are created, tested, constructed and produced. And finally, the story of the collection was completed, ready to be presented, says Karen Simonsen of her work process. - ONE is based around the shirt, the blazer, the trousers, the pencil skirt, and the shift dress, but because we are working with the old classic pieces, does not mean that we have to stop reinventing and adding new pieces to the collection, says Karen Simonsen.
while never compromising on personal style. And to emphasize that classics can look as edgy as any emerging trend, she has cast model Signe Lund, formerly exclusive to Saint Laurent, to star in the campaign.
It has been pivotal for her to give the classics a modern look and sense of comfort, so she has chosen “comfy fabrics” with full stretch and body-caring comfort, yet still created with a profound finish and a tailor-made approach. And by sticking to these versatile pieces, Karen Simonsen’s goal is to build a following of her concept, making it is easy for women to add on to their wardrobe with items in new colours each season. This way they can stay current,
FLUFFY FRIENDS STILL IN FASHION Oh! by Kopenhagen Fur, created a hit last year with their humorous ‘Fluffy Friends’ fur accessories, named Hugo, Hannibal; Harry, and Fifi. Now, for their AW16 season, they have birthed their younger siblings, Curious Bob and Debating Bao, who fit onto every kind of handbag - but with OH!’s equally new bag collection for next season, the accessories will be in particularly good company. The Danish brand has created a range of products that pay tribute to historical traditions, nature, and sensuality. The inspiration derives from nature and it’s raw elements, which creates room for peace and immersion. This is translated into a collection where natural fur and leather meets modern coolness and everyday life.
The development of the OH! By Kopenhagen Fur range, is based on the idea of versatility and is to be used for all occasions. Among the new styles are the practical Babette backpack; in leather with gold details, the smart Bitten bucketbag; in suede, and the elegant Agata clutch; in soft mink - all in a range of different colours. The key colours of the collection go well with traditional autumnal tones in fashion garments, like the deep mossy green Beech and the dark dusty rose, and there will definitely be some happy OH!-outbursts from women, at the sight of a leopard print mink clutch in subtle colors. The wait until September, when the collection is available, is going to be a long one.
STRAIGHT FROM THE TAP The cleanest drinking water is right under our noses: in our taps. But what do we drink when we are not near a tap? Postevand has a goal of making tap water accessible to you on the go. They box the cleanest ground water on eco-friendly FSC cartons and ship them via the shortest possible distances. The result: natural drinking water that is a lot less harmful than bottled water. Try Postevand tap water for free at the Copenhagen Fashion Week main stage at City Hall.
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THE DAILY
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COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
No.2 Autumn Winter 2016
February 4
HONG KONG DESIGNS FOR A NORDIC AUDIENCE For the second time, three Hong Kong designers have chosen to showcase their collections in Copenhagen. The multi-brand show, Fashion Hong Kong, invites you to experience the three talented designers Doris Kath, Kenax Leung and Lu Lu Cheung at the Copenhagen Fashion Week main stage at the City Hall. Hong Kong is regarded as one of the major fashion capitals of Asia and now, because of a shared design philosophy, Fashion Hong Kong’s choice for an international showcasing has once again landed on Copenhagen. When asked why they are back on schedule in Copenhagen, Angela Yip, Assistant Manager at The Hong Kong Trade Development Council says: “Last year, Copenhageners gave their warmest welcome to our designers and our
fashion, that’s why we decided to come back again. Our designs share similar design philosophy and styles with many Scandinavian fashion lovers and designers, and echo with each other. Therefore, Copenhagen is an ideal place for us to showcase the best of Hong Kong fashion.” Doris Kath is the only returning designer from last year’s show. Yip adds that Kath has even taken the Nordic audience into consideration when deciding to release a new line of multi-purpose cocktail dresses. Yip says: “Doris Kath caught the media’s attention with the stunning “One Dress Fits All” concept – not only practical but also creative. More importantly, it coincides with the trend of “slow and sustainable fashion” – for which Denmark are one of the pioneering nations.
PREDICTING THE FUTURE OF MENSWEAR Ike Rust, former head of menswear at Royal College of Art, talks new MA menswear course at Westminster University and gives his perspective on Copenhagen Fashion Week and Danish design students. Why is menswear so hyped right now? Menswear is in renaissance and has functioned off the fashion radar for so long, and has not yet been stifled by the great God of Commerce. Much has been said about fashion needing to change, when in fact it is the CEO’s we need to change. The great houses must allow designers to do their jobs and to stop behaving like highstreet brands whose concern is multibillion-dollar profit and who do not understand fashion. What is the best men’s fashion out there right now? Austrian designer Carol Christian Poell. Everything pales in comparison. Wear it and you will understand why. What’s your impression of Copenhagen Fashion Week?
SOUNDS IN FASHION With smartphones and virtual glasses spearheading the newest generation of portable technology to make the jump from the desks of futurists onto the catwalk and into our daily lives, this so-called wearable technology has the potential to grow 78 percent a year before 2018. In order to explore the meeting between the latest trends in technology and of those in fashion, one of Denmark’s most prominent innovators within hi-fi and sound, Bang & Olufsen, takes the opportunity to use the platform of Copenhagen Fashion Week to show their products in a different context.
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I have seen a new Danish Design emerge, which has everything to do with those who are reaching out internationally to establish change. These include Ingrid Soe for the great work she has done to champion creativity and professionalism at VIA Design. Peter Jensen, because he is such a powerful international brand and a great commercial designer. Barbara I Gongini, because she has such a powerful and exciting aesthetic. Dr. Else Skjold, for her brilliant research into menswear and of course Astrid Andersen and Ellen Pedersen who take Danish Design into a whole new spotlight. How did the new MA Menswear education come about?
How does your Danish students differ from your British? Ha haa. I love my Danish students. I have taught here for over ten years now, so I have a very good understanding of how to draw them out of their Danishness, which can be limiting creatively. I respect their need to discuss things rather than to accept, I enjoy the stubbornness and also the very dark humor, which once engaged, brings very exciting creative results. Danes are shyer and can find it difficult to promote themselves, so I need to look for what’s hidden and for the unexpected. Words by Marlen Tolbod, Fashion Forum
To have a greatly inspired fashion industry, we must have greatly inspired educational institutions. At the RCA I took menswear out of the shadow of womenswear and established it as a creative discipline in it’s own right. The new course at Westminster University will honor the great tradition of menswear – there is nothing fiercer than the process of tailoring.
Photo by Bo Egestrøm
B&O Play is hosting the exhibition ‘Portraits’ at Galleri K Thursday through Saturday afternoon, where six sensory rooms each present the viewers to a very modern interpretation of sounds in fashion. The centre piece of each room is a fashion portrait, by photographer Bo Egestrøm and creative director Uffe Buchard, with creations by designers Henrik Vibskov, Saks Potts; Irina Benetyte, Anne Sofie Madsen; Nicolas Nybroe, and Barbara I Gongini. In addition to the exhibition there will be a B&O pop-up shop with all the latest in fashionable, portable sound.
THE DAILY
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VISIT US AT CIFF | WWW.KARENBYSIMONSEN.COM
No.2 Autumn Winter 2016
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
February 4
RUG, SHAGS, AND FRIEZES TONSURE Time: 14:00 Place: City Hall Words: Jeppe Ugelvig
There’s hardly a more prestigious stamp of approval in the Danish fashion society than to open fashion week. Having also received the DANSK Design Talent – Magasin Prisen in 2015, the A/W 2016 season undoubtedly belongs to Tonsure. Since his debut in 2013, Malte Flagsted has steadily elaborated on a practice that will hopefully fuel the Danish menswear landscape for many years to come. A wall-to-floor carpet in geometric fishbone pattern greeted the guests, which included the Crown Princess, at Copenhagen’s City Hall. As the brand’s Instagram had vaguely hinted at in the days leading up to the show, A/W16 was to be about rugs: shag and frieze finishes, Berber graphics and fragments of Persian patterns featured repeatedly in a wonderful mismatch on perfectly tailored jackets and coats in a historical, deconstructionist spirit. These highly technical achievements lifted the show to something different altogether – evoking the kind of conceptual avant-gardism of Maison Martin Margiela, Flagstad’s former Parisian master. Malte Flagstad’s research-heavy approach, and his refined sensibility for textures, seemed like an ode to his former London-college, Central Saint Martins, and clashed beautifully with the more classic menswear elements of wide pinstriped trousers and camel plaids in brushed wool. Hybrid Cossack/sailor hats completed a collection, which read like a precious research archive. “We celebrate the people who have lived a life, collected and gathered experiences for a lifetime. Their homes are literally an imprint of time gone by, years of history showing in their eclectic mix of texture, pattern and colour”, they explain. Tonsure is a welcomed gust of fresh air to the Danish menswear scene of seasoned, middleweight designers. Still awaiting its first stockist in its home country, the label is already making its mark on the scene.
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EXPERIENCE
Portraits by B&O PLAY
A photographic exploration of the synergies between consumer wearables and fashion VISIT THE EXHIBITION Galleri K, Pilestræde 12, 1st floor (entrance via stairs by PS Bar) Thursday, February 4th, 14.00 – 19.00 Friday, February 5th, 12.00 – 19.00 Saturday, February 6th, 11.00 – 15.00 beoplay.com/portraits
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
No.2 Autumn Winter 2016
February 4
A TRIP TO THE DARK SIDE LALA BERLIN Time: 17:00 Place: City Hall Words: Sille Henning
At yesterday’s lala Berlin show designer Leyla Piedayesh showed a darker side of the German label. It was Regitze Christensen, Danish model-of-the-hour who opened the show, all dressed in black; black suit, plush coat, and a beanie with a badge of a mythical Persian creature. Faces of antique statues of various mythical creatures and Middle Eastern animals were represented throughout the collection; in print, embellished on coats as well as on knits, and of course as badges. However, the overall vibe of the designs was to be found in the 90’s grunge culture. Think: fishnet stockings, Doc Martins; belted coats with large patch pockets, short kilt skirts, and oversized hooded knits. A strong contrast to earlier seasons’ slightly more girly universe. The Persian references felt like a homage to the designer’s own Iranian heritage and was nicely juxtaposed against the more contemporary silhouettes of the collection, which included tuxedo resembling suits in white, kaki, and black and flattering dresses with asymmetrical cuts. Loyal fans were of course not cheated of the labels trademark – the partisan scarf inspired print. This season it came in a shimmering green-blue-yellow shade used both on a velvet cape as well as on a belted suit – all styles, we for sure will see featured in next season’s editorials.
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LIVESTREAM Watch the FW16 show at bymalenebirger.com 4th of February 2PM CET
No.2 Autumn Winter 2016
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
February 4
URBAN SCULPTURISM ELLEN PEDERSEN Time: 16:00 Place: Rundetårn Words: Jeppe Ugelvig
Rather than a show, the young menswear designer Ellen Pedersen had decided to conduct a presentation. The stillness of such a showcase added a sculptural effect to the handful of stoic-looking models who had been arranged in clusters around the library hall inside Copenhagen’s landmark, Round Tower - crowds circulating as were they ancient Greek sculptures. A menswear graduate of the Royal College of Art, the clash of future and tradition features strongly in her work, adding a forward-looking materiality to quintessential British menswear tropes. In a graphic pallet of white, black, and deep forest green, the designer reinterpreted sportswear silhouettes by cutting and reassembling them in a surprising manner, provoking couture-like volume and fit to typically loose sports-pants and shirts. However, the strategy of intersecting classic garments, in cotton and dyed denim, with stripes of synthetic materials like nylon and neoprene, succeeded with varying degree. Utilising such a range of different fabrics, to then move as one, requires extreme technical ability, which the young designer does not seem to currently posses. This was a shame, because when she chose to stick to just one material, like in her sumptuous zipper-embellished suede lather jacket in black, she elegantly procured the kind of urban sculpturalism, that Ellen Pedersen has made her trademark. A volumptious knee-long parka in shiny nylon strayed off from a show that otherwise elaborated on the designer’s continuing investigation into the contemporary British dandy. A show styled to perfection, Ellen Pedersen has clearly found her conceptual identity – this shines through, despite too ambitious fabric manipulation.
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SUSTAINABLE APPAREL FOR POSITIVE IMPACT PEOPLE
REVOLVER GREEN HALL G048
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
No.2 Autumn Winter 2016
February 4
THE QUEEN OF AVANT-GARDE BARBARA I GONGINI Time: 20.00 Place: City Hall Words: Pernille Hammershøj Madsen
Barbara i Gongini, The designer from the Faroe Islands, whose red hair is as a statement in itself, is a strong name on the Danish avant-garde scene. Barbara’s models each, with a distinguished look, as they walked down the runway - some wearing impressive hats, others with their hair dyed in a glossy blond fashion. Barbara I Gongini is an expert on working with black and her choice of materials proved the true potential of the colour - thus leather, cotton, modal, fur and knitwear all brought life and uniqueness to the designs. The collection started out with wearable pieces that had a sporty feel to them. The colours were kept black, with white details and typed letters, bountifully thrown at pants and shirts. Barbara describes her sustainable vision of the label as being part of a “wardrobe in concept”: The styles are non-commercial and can be worn until they fall apart. Another thing about Barbara’s design is its multitude quality: “We call the styles multi ways meaning that they can be worn and fitted in different ways. It brings in a playful element and for this collection we worked with a principle of folding and layering, which allows the wearer to mould it according to his or her unique body. “ The collection was finalized as two dancers took the stage, wearing white showpieces made from old runway carpets. Their impressive postures made the audience flash their iPhone cameras, as their costumes wriggled around their bodies in a truly avant-garde fashion!
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Revolver Village Venue - Tietgensgade 65, 1704 Copenhagen V www.revolver.dk
No.2 Autumn Winter 2016
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
February 4
OPULENT SUBURBIA HAN KJØBENHAVN Time: 18:00 Place: Den Grå Hal Words: Jeppe Ugelvig
Copenhagen’s most idiosyncratic menswear brand, Han Kjøbenhavn, invited for a hip-hop laden showcase in an exceptionally chilly Grey Hall, in Christiania, Wednesday evening. As the populous crowd installed themselves in the industrial setting, it seemed clear that the brand appeals to a particular contemporary man who has the courage to incorporate both traditional and new, daring styles into his ever-evolving wardrobe. Any initial frost quickly thawed away as the models appeared one after the other, emerging from the gigantic shabby-looking Papier-mâché teddy bear, that served as the show’s pseudo-religious totem, with an obscure air ventilation system attached to its belly which stretched to the far end of the runway. Headpieces of scrap fabrics gave an uncanny scarecrow effect and contrasted brilliantly with more humorous track tops in shiny zig-zag polyester tees, bringing to mind tender teenage years in the local football club. Drawing on their own suburban upbringing, the locale was romantically articulated by the designers through logos of plumbers and auto-mechanics, printed on jumpers and track pants in deep purple and moss green. While the monstrous ‘Teddy Legion’ installation, to which the models attached themselves to, after walking, failed to communicate any substantial meaning, the clothes needed no additional framework: Jannik Wikkelsø Davidsen and Tim Faith Hancock presented their best and most luxurious collection yet. They elegantly sampled the best (and worst) of Danish clothing heritage, from trench coats to long johns, and translated it in to opulent tailored outfits that were equally accessible and avant-garde. Never has the mawkish mid-90s looked this good.
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No.2 Autumn Winter 2016
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
February 4
GLAMOUR EN MASSE JESPER HØVRING & GREAT GREENLAND Time: 15.00 Place: Hotel D’Angleterre Words: Lotte Freddie
Crown Princess Mary of Denmark, regularly figures on the magazine Vanity Fair’s Best Dressed list. This achievement is gained partly due to one of her favourite designers, Jesper Høvring, who has created numerous couture dresses for HRH. The Crown Princess, as well as other faithful Jesper Høvring fans, will once again find several new possibilities for glamorous looks. Long petrol, black, and raspberry 40’s styled, slinky dresses were ingeniously cut in V’s across the nude, tulle covered shoulders – or daringly cut low in the back. Green/black laser cut, double lace glimmered in a “simple” A-line 60’s dress with a ruffled seam, and a lovely matte gold 50’s dress swayed with lots of deep pleats in the skirt. It was adorned with black embroidery made by a former student of the famous French embroiderer, Lesage. Indispensable side pockets in all white dresses also suited both a golden and a fabulously gathered, long, black dress in laser cut heavy lace. Silver/grey, sexy evening 70’s trouser twinkled in suits with narrow legs. The same glamour had been bestowed on seal, from Great Greenland, which in the softest skins shone in wine, bottle green, and grey - often trimmed with matching fox. The short grey cross striped jacket, with three bands of blue/green/gold sequins, is heavenly. The perfect jacket, with jeans, or an evening gown, summer or winter, also for a princess. Hopefully new leadership at Great Greenland shall now more effectively understand promoting natures beautiful sustainable Greenland sealskins.
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YOU’RE INVITED TO PANEL DEBATES:
SUSTAINABILITY – WHAT’S IN IT FOR ME? 4 February | 15 – 16 DENIM TALENTS OF TOMORROW: ISKO I-SKOOL THIRD EDITION MICHAEL KAMPE, Menswear Designer Denim+, HUGO BOSS JON LOMAN, Product Designer Menswear & Denim, H&M MARCO LUCIETTI, Global Marketing Director, ISKO FRANCOIS GIRBAUD, Designer WILLIAM BERNARD, Creative Design Manager, Avery Dennison RBIS
MODERATED BY SAMUEL TROTMAN DENIM EDITOR AT WSGN VENUE
CIFF / Bella Center Copenhagen FREE ENTRANCE
No.2 Autumn Winter 2016
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
February 4
HENRIK AND THE TALKING HEADS HENRIK VIBSKOV Time: 21:30 Place: City Hall Words: City hall
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Since last season’s desert expedition, Vibskov had travelled further east – more specifically to Asia, where he reinterpreted the traditional nutcracker figurine in a spectacular orchestra of 200 blabbering clapping wooden heads. This unnerving soundscape instantly threw the audience into his always total-immersive universe. Vibskov’s conceptual starting point was the overload of (mis)information that we submit our brains to on a daily basis. In an attempt to meticulously structuralise, the brain risks to fully loose grasp of meaning – and enter a state paralysing chaos. This was successfully communicated in the utter inferno of mismatched printed pleats, fragmented packaging and posters from the 50s, and stripes in every (non)combination possible that ran through the collection. But amidst the chaos, Vibskov the tailor, kept a cool head. His usual nutty print-mania had been replaced by sharp graphic lines and monochrome outfits, which brought out an appreciation for the sculpted details in every garment. Kimono-like coats in wool for men and women, oversized quilted bomber jackets and a fabulously folded one-piece in monochrome black were wholly surprising, perfectly balanced the urban and the imaginary. The wooden theme had stepped down from the central installation to interweave in the collection as head- and shoe pieces, and this is when Vibskov works the best: leaving the conventions of his catalogue of silhouettes, to actually challenge the very construction of his garments. AW16 was Vibskov at his most mature, and it suited him. A senior of his native industry, it was truly wonderful to see that his oeuvre continues to evolve.
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Sponsered by Scholl
COPENHAGEN FEET STYLE It’s all in the details; No look is complete unless well-groomed from head to toe – and all seasons require well-groomed feet. Scholl is all about gentle foot care, making your feet look and feel healthy. Therefore, during Copenhagen Fashion Week, Scholl celebrates the gorgeous fashion feet details of runways and red carpets alike in the tribute series “Copenhagen Feet Style”. Wednesday kicked off the Copenhagen Fashion Week with a glorious selection of stiletto styles and beautiful boots.
No.2 Autumn Winter 2016
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
February 4
STASIA’S STAYING POWER STASIA Time: 19:00 Place: Hotel D’Angleterre Words: Lotte Freddie Stasia thinks in bodies. Her design is based on the woman’s body, her posture, her figure; her shape, her curves. She has done this for 35 years, during which Stasia Hallas has designed for jetsetters, celebrities, artists, politicians, and brides, as well as the less famous women who simply want something special for a special occasion. Her design is shape orientated, feminine, and always sensual. But the most unusual is that her designs are coveted by all ages - at the same time as a dowager countess is fitted for a new couture gala robe, young girls are trying on their prom dresses. Two years ago she launched Lace by Stasia, a ready to wear collection entirely executed in lace. Yesterday she showed both couture and the less expensive French lace ranging from almost demure to vastly sexy. High-necked dresses with a two tiered ruffled skirt in silver-grey, alternated with transparent dresses over a corsage slip, and tough black spider webs worn over the naked body are meant to be lined with rose, purple, white or nude - rather fantastic on the perfect model bodies. Abstract print in blue and green, and onyx brocade in jackets and skirts are new; as is beautiful poppy printed silk and white, crystal incrusted lace. A simple black shift dress with long sleeves in silver lace, half way down the wrist – a genius method to saving an old dress. Black glimmering lurex is extremely sexy, a black short, gathered dress - young and lovely, and Chinese red lacquer dresses will steel the show.
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LAIDBACK LUXURY IN COPENHAGEN STAY IN SOUL-WARMING COMFORT IN THE HEART OF COPENHAGEN’S LATIN QUARTER. WELCOME TO HOTEL SKT. PETRI.
P R O U D PA RT N E R O F COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
K R Y S TA L G A D E 2 2 | 1 1 7 2 C O P E N H A G E N | D E N M A R K + 4 5 3 3 4 5 9 1 0 0 | S TAY @ S K T P E T R I . C O M
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
No.2 Autumn Winter 2016
February 4
HIP IN THE MIX Award-winning menswear debutante Tonsure, drew a very diverse front row, of hipsters and politicians and a dash of royalty thrown in, for the official fashion week opening show at City Hall. Photos: Helena Lundquist, Words: Elsebeth Mouritzen Nina Wedell, board member of Magasinfonden, which sponsors the DANSK Design Talent Award that Tonsure won last October, has big plans of introducing future winners to the American market with the help of New York-based Connie Morgan from the Council of Fashion Designers of Scandinavia.
The hipper Danish equivalent of Laurel & Hardy, entertainers Esben Bjerre og Peter Falktoft, who definitely don’t share the same style or taste, agreed to agree that Tonsure is the first brand, where they both can find something suitable, perhaps from opposite ends of the rack.
Jeweller Charlotte Lynggaard, on a brief visit from Paris, where she is preparing the opening of a new boutique, met Julie Schulin of Quidam, who designs Denmark’s most expensive handbags made from sublime Italian leather.
The big coup was the publicly announced attendance of HRH Crown Princess Mary, who was in the good company of, Minister of Foreign Affairs, Kristian Jensen and CEO Eva Kruse, CWF.
Soulland designer, Silas Adler, who recently presented his collection in London, was back in Copenhagen to cheer on his peers, and met with equally enthusiastic fashion professional Uffe Buchard.
EDITOR’S CHOICE Front row at German brand Lala Berlin was brimming with media fans. Photos: Helena Lundquist, Words: Elsebeth Mouritzen
Frederik Lentz Andersen, Senior Fashion Director of the Euroman and Eurowoman magazines had chosen a beige windbreaker despite of his wife having warned him about the colour clashing with his complexion.
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National newspaper critics Rikke Agnete Dam of Børsen (Financial Times) and Sarah Skarum of Berlingske exchanged views on the shows so far, with The Daily’s own observant Sille Henning.
Fashion Editor Jeanette Madsen and Fashion Director Thora Valdimarsdóttir of Costume magazine epitomized laid back Scandinavian bohemian chic.
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rebellious love Join us at CIFF stand E-syd-130
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
No.2 Autumn Winter 2016
February 4
FASHION FLASHBACK
It has been a memorable 10 years for everybody involved in Copenhagen Fashion Week, so far. We have asked some of you to share your biggest moments and funniest incidents from front row and backstage, trade fairs and parties.
FREYA DALSJÖ Designer
SUN SHIELD The first show was incredible. It was at the Tap 2 venue, which is this huge building filled with windows in the ceiling, and we wanted to show a movie, so it had to be completely dark inside. It was in August and the sun was out, so I had all my friends on the roof at the very last minute crawling around to cover all the windows. MULTITASKING I am surprised by how much you can miraculously achieve in just one day. There are always a million things that have to work out on the last days before the show, leading to 17 hours of intensely focused multitasking – speaking on the phone with two people at a time, while having lunch with your other hand, while nodding to a question from a colleague, while writing an email, while sewing dresses, while gluing shoes, while biking to a meeting, while…You are high on the stress but it is a quite fulfilling experience of efficiency. CAUGHT IN LATEX We had a show where the models were covered in latex, which worked out great until they had to change for their second look. So in this timeframe from coming backstage from the first look to entering again with their second look, they had like 28 seconds, and they couldn’t get the tight clothes off as they got stuck because of the latex and the stress. Things went
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ELSEBETH MOURITZEN
Editor in Chief, CFW The Daily TEARFUL DEPARTURE I was seated opposite designer Malene Birger, when she attended her own last show in front row, after having officially, and by her own will, passed the torch to her successor. The seconds before she got up to greet Christina Exsteen with a huge bouquet of white flowers, our eyes met, and I could see tears welled up in hers.It was a very emotional moment for me, too. I had followed her rise from the very first By Malene Birger collection, and, in my position as then Director of Fashion at ALT for damerne, championed her by immediately granting the magazine’s fashion design award, Guldknappen (The Gold Button) to her brand.
RIKKE AGNETE DAM, Fashion Editor, Børsen COOL LOCATION One of the locations that is the most memorable to me is the underground location Cisternene in the Søndermarken park. We sat there, freezing our butts off, in February 2014 for the Designers Remix show. Even though it was freezing cold and we had to cross the snow to get there, I loved every second of the very convincing location. In addition to the collections, one of the most amazing things about fashion week is that you get to experience a lot of places in Copenhagen that you would normally just pass by. Rikke Agnete Dam, Fashion Editor, Børsen
SILAS ADLER
Creative Director, Soulland GREATEST IDEAS I think our most memorable show is the interactive show in a villa on Krausersvej on Østerbro. People were able to walk around the house and scan QR codes on the models, which would open small film clips on their phones. Our most spectacular location was the Zoological Museum, many years ago. They were restoring the museum, so we got the chance to use a hall, that was completely empty, except for two whale skeletons hanging on the wall. MOST THIRSTY What surprised me the most about setting up a show is how expensive it is, how quickly it’s over and how many people are only there for the free beers…
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COPENHAGEN FASHION SUMMIT 12.05.16
”IN THE WAKE OF COP21 AND THE HISTORIC CLIMATE DEAL, THE COPENHAGEN FASHION SUMMIT IS EVER-MORE IMPORTANT.” NEW YORK TIMES FASHION DIRECTOR VANESSA FRIEDMAN
COPENHAGENFASHIONSUMMIT.COM WHERE LEADING VOICES OF FASHION GATHER TO DISCUSS THE INDUSTRY’S SOCIAL AND ENVIRONMENTAL RESPONSIBILITY
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
No.2 Autumn Winter 2016
The fashion darlings from ELLE, Laura Lawetz and Malou Wedel Bruun, were dressed in Scandinavian labels: Laura in Danish fur brand Saks Potts, complimented with a scarf from Ganni. The colourful coat worn by Malou, was by Finish designer Marimekko. “I am looking forward to meeting my fellow fashion colleagues, enjoying the extravagant shows, and attending the fairs”, says Laura, while Malou is looking forward to experiencing the rich creativity that Copenhagen Fashion week has to offers.
February 4
Mattias Kolstrup, lead singer of Duné, donned the essential Hilfiger rock’n’roll uniform; wearing a leather jacket and washed-out t-shirt and jeans, - “I am a fashion iliterate” – said the singer, as he was on his way to the recording studio - but will take time to go see the Krüger show. He exchanged a mutual admiration with singer Kwamie Liv, who was destined for another recording studio in a COS shirt and Ganni pants, gearing up to shows by Ganni and Trine Lindgaard, among others.
TOMMY’S TREAT Prominent professionals once again gathered to kick off Copenhagen Fashion Week as Tommy Hilfiger threw his traditional breakfast Tuesday morning. Photos: Helena Lundquist, Words: Pernille Hammershøj Madsen, FashionFladen.dk
Creative director at Grenaa Creative and co-founder of DANSK magazine, Kim Grenaa, showed up wearing Danish labels Tonsure and Bruuns Bazaar. “I’m looking very much forward to Tonsure’s opening show. They won the talent prize Dansk Design Talent - Magasin Prisen 2015, which I am part of organizing. A lot is happening on the men’s wear scene and I think it’s really cool that a men’s label is opening the fashion week!”
copenhagenfashionweek.com
“The Tommy Hilfiger brunch is the only thing I am attending this season besides crashing some parties - just like old times when I was not invited to the shows. Fashion week is like a curve: You start out by attending one show and it is the greatest! But after having attended several, you get exhausted” Says the media-trained-goes-furniture-designer Emil Thorup and informs The Daily that he is wearing Tommy Hilfiger from head to toe!
Fashion bloggers and co-editors at FashionFladen. dk, Lei Jürs & Lydia Negash, attended Tommy’s who’s-who-breakfast in outfits suited for the occasion: Lei in an &Other Stories coat and Lydia dressed in Esprit with a bright pink lipstick, perfect for her dark skin. Lydia tells The Daily that she is looking forward to attending Tonsure’s opening show while Lei thoughts go to Nicholas Nybro: “I think his last show was quite unique, especially his bast fiber dresses caught my attention.”
THE DAILY
The newly proclaimed editor-in-chief of Euroman Kristoffer Zøllner attended the Tommy Hilfiger breakfast accompanied by lifestyle expert Christian Grau. “Attending the Hilfiger breakfast is a tradition for me”, Christian tells us, and emphasizes that he has actually chosen to wear a shirt from Tommy Hilfiger. “Eight-nine years ago I was an established part of the fashion week. Then I had children. This morning my wife and I woke up to our 1,5-year-old son, who had come down with chickenpox!” Said the tired yet enthusiastic editor-in-chief who was wearing a Hugo Boss blazer and an Acne t-shirt.
TV producer Solomon E.A. Lyttle working with Warner Brothers had come to Copenhagen to film the new TV-show Black Nordic and Copenhagen Fashion Week kicked off the filming: “We are going to have a look at the sexiest models and also five of the best designers.” Said Solomon’ who’s fabulous glasses were made by the Jamaican artist Oral Kerr. Beside him stands DR K’s own Chris Pedersen: “I am looking forward to the Tonsure show. I was a part of the committee choosing them as the winner of Dansk Design Talent - Magasin Prisen 2015. The prize is great as it allows a new designer to create a show.” Says the fashion professional who recently broke his little toe and therefore has to wear mountain boots! Besides that, Chris is wearing a sweater from SNS Herning.
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No.2 Autumn Winter 2016
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
February 4
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1 — BACKSTAGE AT TONSURE 2 — BACKSTAGE AT LALA BERLIN
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK OFFICIAL APP • Schedule & directions • News & notifications • Street style • Restaurants Download the iPhone app at App Store: Copenhagen Fashion Week copenhagenfashionweek.com
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COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
No.2 Autumn Winter 2016
February 4
COPENHAGEN FASHION FESTIVAL EVENTS OPEN TO ALL FASHION TALK: MODEL TALK Thursday 17.00 Magasin – Kong Hans Salen Kongens Nytorv 13 Copenhagen K TREND BEACONS PRESENTED IN COLLABORATION WITH DR K Thursday 18.00 Magasin – Kong Hans Salen Kongens Nytorv 13 Copenhagen K
GEORG JENSEN DAMASK Thursday 19.00 Pilestræde 30 Copenhagen K OPEN HOUSE AT FASHION DESIGN AKADEMIET Thursday 15.00-18.00 Nørregade 7C Copenhagen K
KADK EXHIBITION: THE FASHION DESIGNERS OF TOMORROW Thursday - Sunday Skt Petri Hotel Krystalgade 22 Copenhagen K
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK ON SCHEDULE
OFF SCHEDULE
By invitation only
By invitation only
BUSINESS LOUNGE
11.00 Maikel Tawadros
10.00 KRÛGER
City Hall, Rådhuspladsen 1
12.00 Freya Dalsjø
15.00 Fashion Hong Kong
Copenhagen V
13.00 Revolver Trade Fair Visit
Wednesday, 3 February: 11-22 Thursday, 4 February: 10-19 Friday, 5 February: 9-18
14.00 By Malene Birger 16.00 Birger Christensen 17.00 Mark Kenly Domino Tan 18.00 Lovechild 1979 19.00 Baum und Pferdgarten 20.00 Asger Juel Larsen 21.00 Ganni
T R A D E FA I R S
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CIFF
CIFF Raven
Bella Center Center Boulevard 5 Copenhagen S
Bella Center Center Boulevard 5 Copenhagen S
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Revolver Copenhagen Int. Fashion Trade Show Revolver Village Tietgensgade 65 Copenhagen V
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