COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
THE DA ILY Spring / Summer 2016
INNONCENCE LOST
FREYA DALSJØ
DELICATE DEBUTANTE
LOVECHILD 1979
PARTISAN POWER
LALA BERLIN
GRAPHIC TROPICALISM
ASGER JUEL LARSEN
No. 2
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
No. 2 Spring Summer 2016
August 6
MEN’S CLUB ELSEBETH MOURITZEN
count for a huge part of the increase in turnover in recent years that makes it difficult to remain pessimistic at the national trade association, Danish Fashion & Textile.
Editor-in-Chief
Men have poor records in all fashion statistics. They don’t spend as much time and money on buying clothes and accessories as women, and they seemingly don’t follow fashion as much as we do. Add to that a predominance of women’s brands during fashion week to take care of the much-hailed export success that Denmark has experienced in recent years, design coming in as the country’s fourth biggest export industry. Enter a new generation of male consumers and the designers to match them. They ac-
Representing 300+ textile and clothing companies, they watch the numbers closely, and with last year’s growth in export by 10 percent, and a record seven percent in the first half of 2015 alone, it is understandable that arms are up in the air. The international markets are buying into the relaxed Scandinavian lifestyle that is reflected in our fashion design, and even if Danish exports account for only one percent of the European fashion market, that one percent means a lot to the domestic economy. Rightfully so, we owe some of that success to the frontrunners of men’s fashion. 21 years ago, Bruuns Bazaar was one of the first brands to break away from the traditional look, giving basics a younger, more effortless and sophisticated attitude, while avantgarde Barbara I Gongini took to challenge the perception of menswear with her more artistic view on fashion. Since Copenhagen Fashion Week started in its present form 10 years ago, men’s fashion has gotten much more attention from press
and buyers. There has been a platform for communicating menswear and a new exciting story to tell, and the consumers have listened. There was, for years, a vaccum after the economic meltdown in 2009, but look how Soulland, Han Kjøbenhavn, Won Hundred, Norse, Rains, NN7, Asger Juel Larsen, Libertine-Libertine and Astrid Andersen have lead the way to inspire other, brands, either from the runways, showrooms, or with the support provided by trade fairs CIFF and Revolver with designated exhibition spaces. It may not be revolutionary, but the breakthrough has come on the premises of what men look for in fashion. As a style-oriented business-insider describes it, the current success for men’s design comes down to the fact that international consumers are at ease with the Danish interpretation of trends. Fashion has taken a direction that appeals to them, and they feel like entering a members’ club where everyone confirms that this is the look. Perhaps it is just how the pants are cuffed, the shirt is worn, or the cap is turned, but it is still fashion consciousness. And now it has also proved to be good business, to the benefit of society as a whole.
Check out the show schedule at C O P E N H A G E N FA S H I O N W E E K . C O M & download our free app for more details go to C O P E N H A G E N FA S H I O N F E S T I VA L . C O M
CONTRIBUTORS
PUBLISHER: Copenhagen Fashion Week
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT: Frederik Højgaard
EXECUTIVE EDITOR: Anne Christine Persson
ART DIRECTOR: Marie Brodersen
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: Elsebeth Mouritzen
GRAPHIC DESIGNER: Liv Caroline Hotvedt Laursen
SUB-EDITOR: Magnus Jorem
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WRITERS: Moussa Mchangama, Lotte Freddie, Sille Henning, Jeppe Ugelvig COVER PHOTO: Luka Roné PHOTOGRAPHERS: Luka Roné, Helena Lundquist, Victor Jones. All show photos provided by Copenhagen Fashion Week
SALES: Julie Steenstrup DISTRIBUTION: Maya Juel Ladewig Andersen PRINT: Berlingske Avistryk
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R EVOLVE R INTERNATIONAL FASHION TRADE SHOW COPENHAGEN
REPRESENTING THE LEADING SCANDINAVIAN CONTEMPORARY DESIGNER BRANDS 2OR+BY YAT 5PREVIEW 7 FOR ALL MANKIND A QUESTION OF ALLY CAPELLINO AMERICAN VINTAGE ANDERSEN & ANDERSEN ARMOR LUX ASGER JUEL LARSEN ASICS ATP ATELIER BACK BY ANN-SOFIE BACK BARACUTA BARBARA I GONGINI BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN BIBI CHEMNITZ BILLIONAIRE BOYS CLUB BLUE DE GÊNES BROOKS ENGLAND BY THE NO CAPITAL GOODS CATHRINE HAMMEL CHEAP MONDAY CRIMINAL DAMAGE CUTULICULT DENHAM THE JEANMAKER DR. MARTENS MADE IN ENGLAND EPICE FREYA DALSJØ GABBA GARMENT PROJECT GRAUMANN GRENSON GUÐRUN & GUÐRUN HANSEN HENRIK VIBSKOV HESTRA HOPE HOSS INTROPIA HOUSE OF DAGMAR HUMANOID IVAN GRUNDAHL JANE KØNIG LEE JEANS LEON LOUIS LEVIS MADE & CRAFTED LIGHTNING BOLT LINDA FARROW LYLE & SCOTT M. WIESNECK MADS NØRGAARD MAJESTIC MARIA BLACK JEWELLERY MASON SCOTCH MAX.TAN MAXJENNY ME AND MY BROTHERS MINIMARKET MINIMUM MUNDERINGSKOMPAGNIET MÅNESTRÅLE NANUSHKA NEBEL NEW BALANCE NORWEGIAN RAIN ODD MOLLY PELECHECOCO PENDELTON WOOLEN MILLS PENFIELD RANSOM REBEKKAREBEKKA REEBOK CLASSIC REVOLUTION RIKA ROBERTO COLLINA RPL MAISON S. N. S. HERNING SAINT JAMES SAMSØE & SAMSØE SANDQVIST SCOTCH & SODA SOPHIE BY SOPHIE SOULLAND STELLA NOVA STINE GOYA STYLEIN THE LAST CONSPIRACY THOM KROM TWIN SET UNIVERSAL WORKS UNSUNG COPENHAGEN URBAHIA UTZON VETRA VIBE HARSLØF WACKERHAUS WE LOVE JEANS WESC WHYRED WON HUNDRED WOOD WOOD WOOLRICH YVONNE KONÉ ÖRJAN ANDERSSON WITH MANY MORE TO COME
AUGUST 5th - 7th, 2015 COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK WWW.REVOLVER.DK
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
No. 2 Spring Summer 2016
August 6
150 EMPTY HANGERS
MASTER OF HAIR AND POTATOES
Every designer’s nightmare hit designer Vibe Johansson, when she entered her studio a few days before CFW to discover that her entire collection and more had been stolen overnight.
Celebrity hairdresser Dennis Knudsen will become a restaurateur when he opens Kontrast on Regnbuepladsen opposite City Hall tomorrow in a multi-level space.
– I have no idea why anyone would be interested in stealing my clothes. I would think that better-known brands would be more at risk, a modest Vibe Johansson says to The Daily.
Formerly used as a buffet restaurant and gay disco (though not at the same time), Knudsen has designed the restaurant with diversity in mind, featuring a dining area, a bar, and a venue for intimate concerts, lectures, and shows.
The theft, which the police think is aimed at the black market rather than with copying in mind, has left her with 150 empty hangers. Not only did the intruders run away with her SS16 collection, but also showpieces, stock, and one-of-a-kind garments and fur.
He intends to reflect the restaurant’s name in a varied menu offering opposites from porridge to caviar, but the attraction will likely be the classic Danish open-faced potato sandwich that won him the title as Master Chef on Danish television in 2013
– I have had to reschedule or cancel my showroom appointments, but I will see a few clients here in Copenhagen that will not be able to meet me in Paris, where I will relocate to during the Tranoï fair in October, says Vibe Johansson. She posted her misfortune on social media and is overwhelmed by the immediate support she has received. People have promised to keep an eye out for her missing collection and also lent their hands to recreate as many styles as possible, so at least there will be some samples to present during Copenhagen Fashion Week.
A REFURBISHED LOUNGE
STRAIGHT FROM THE TAP
Thanks to the work of decorating wizard Bo Benzon of Arkitekturministeriet, the Copenhagen Fashion Week Business Lounge sports an all-new two-story design this season. The feeling is more loungy than ever and located outdoors on City Hall Square. The groundfloor terrace is open to the public and features a TONI&GUY Hair Meet Wardrobe bar for trying out products, and drinks by Absolut Vodka. As always, the lounge is fully facilitated with working stations, power supplies, and free food and beverages.
The best and clearest drinking water is right below our noses: in the tap. But what do we drink when we are not close to a tap? The new company Postevand has a goal of making tap water accessible on the go. They box the best and clearest ground water on eco-friendly FSC cartons and ship them over the shortest possible distances. The result: natural drinking water that’s less harmful to the environment than regular bottled water. Try the Postevand tap water at City Hall, the official Copenhagen Fashion Week show venue and at Fashion Square, the epicentre of Copenhagen Fashion Festival.
The Business Lounge is open throughout fashion week, today and tomorrow.
COULD I SEE YOU IN MY OFFICE?
TALKS AND TUTORIALS AT FASHION SQUARE
Office Magazine is a new independent biannual print magazine with a focus on fashion, art, culture, music, New York and everything else in between that inspires the founders, three Danes, who all live and work out of the Big Apple: makeup artist Zenia Jaeger, art director and photographer Jesper D. Lund, and stylist and creative director Simon Rasmussen.
Starting today, Nytorv is transformed into the main attraction of Copenhagen Fashion Festival: Fashion Square. The square is open to all and invites the public to enjoy cool refreshments in the lounge area and experience various fashionable pop-up events: · Free blowouts at TRESemmé Blow-Out Bar · A live tutorial with TRESemmé Lead Stylist Lasse Pedersen · Live Fashion Talks with prominent industry profiles on career, style and much more · Olympus Pop-Up Shop and meet-and-greet with blogger Tina-Maria
– We don’t distinguish between the genders, we portray both men and women’s fashion and everything in between. Office is high-end fashion with an edge, and with a focus on being multicultural, says Jesper D. Lund.
– It’s supposed to make you ask questions about the installation, and preferably the visitors will not be able to find out what it is and why it’s there, and hopefully use it as a tool. Office is not for everyone, if everyone likes the office, we have done something wrong, says Simon Rasmussen.
To present their magazine, they team up with CIFF to host a very special lounge situated between RAVEN and LAB. It appears as an
Tickets are required for Fashion Talks. Sign up at copenhagenfashionfestival.com
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installation in a 90s office setting, humorously carried out as the magazine really has nothing to do with an office.
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No. 2 Spring Summer 2016
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
August 6
VILLAGE PEOPLE
PHOTO COURTESY OF HUGO JOZWICK
Revolver Cph. International Trade Show is only in its second season, but locating it at the original exhibit halls Øksnehallen in the heart of the Meatpacking District has proved to be the right decision. The fair has attracted not only 330 brands, many of whom are new in this context, but also international and regional buyers, flocking to a gathering in one place of contemporary, premium Scandinavian fashion. Furthermore, the launch of Revolver Village – with showrooms and a show venue – adds to the attraction of visiting this authentic Copenhagen neighborhood. Lined up for shows are Freya Dalsjø, Asger Juel Larsen, Ivan Grundahl, and Fonnesbech, plus the Scandinavian talent award Designer’s Nest.
– Danish fashion is a reflection and product of our culture. To make the experience of coming to Copenhagen Fashion Week complete, we include various aspects of art and culture in our village, so that press and buyers can get a full Copenhagen experience in one place, says Communications Director Stina Vanessa, who highlights their cooperation with Distortion street party, Trailerpark Festival, and pop-up shops with local brands and products, among many other inititatives. Needless to say, the general hip factor of the Meatpacking District with cafés, bars and restaurants makes this a must-go destination for fashion professionals during the fair, also after hours.
BAY BACK IN BUSINESS
SCANDINAVIAN JEWELRY DARLINGS AT FASHION WEEK
Six months after distinguished Danish designer and trend-forecaster Rebekka Bay parted ways with GAP, who headhunted her in 2012 as Creative Director to infuse the all-American lifestyle brand with Scandinavian minimalism, she is back at the design table.
Copenhagen takes pride in being one of few fashion capitals that strive to place its local jewelry on the world fashion map. This is one of the reasons why Copenhagen Fashion Week SS16 sees its fifth edition of The Jewellery Room, a showroom that presents the unique world of Scandinavian jewelry to press and buyers.
Tuesday, she clocked in at Everlane, a young San Francisco-based online fashion brand founded by Silicon Valley entrepreneurs. Their design profile is not far from the same clean timeless aesthetics that she famously launched H&M’s COS label with in 2007 from London, and continued to perfect during her short time with Bruuns Bazaar in Copenhagen in 2011-12.
Showcasing the variety of the local jewellery scene, the exhibitors at The Jewellery Room range from global megabrands like Pandora and Georg Jensen to established and trendsetting brands like Ole Lyngaard Copenhagen and Shamballa Jewels. Finally, The Jewellery Room also presents talented, up-and-coming jewelers such as Ninna York, Katrine Kristensen and Orit Elhanati.
– I cannot think of a vision or strategy more relevant than that of Everlane. I look forward to contributing to influence future consumer patterns, Rebekka Bay says in an exclusive comment to The Daily.
The Jewellery Room is presented by Goldmind Communication and Danish Fashion Institute. The showroom is open Friday, 7 August 2015 from 10.00 to 16.00 at Nikolaj Kunsthal, Nikolaj Plads 10, Copenhagen K.
GLIMPSE BEHIND THE SCENES For the second season in a row, Copenhagen Fashion Festival invites the public to get a glimpse of what goes on behind the scenes of the Danish fashion industry. With a series of Fashion Talks held openair at Nytorv, appropriately renamed Fashion Square for a few days, hot-shot speakers will discuss all aspects of business. The first session takes place on Friday at 15:00, when the audience can explore what it takes to get a job in the industry – whether in a fashion
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magazine or fashion company. Participants in the debate include Cecilie Ingdal Christiansen, Editor-in-Chief of Elle, Anne Christine Persson, Development Director at Copenhagen Fashion Week, Camille Berner, editor at Stylista.dk, and Lulu Henckel, Creative Director of Youheshe.com. They will reveal what happens behind closed doors, what it’s like working with fashion professionally – and not least, how to get a foot in the door.
For those who want to take a shortcut by starting their own blog, Saturday at 11:00 is the right time to show up and get tips from the most successful fashion bloggers on how to go from newbie to master. Take notes as Marie Myrhøj (Nemesis, babe blog), Sidsel Alling (Fashionpolish), Frederikke Toftsø (Fredesblog.dk), and Michael Schmidt (Dansk Mode) take you through the challenges in this booming niche of fashion media.
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No. 2 Spring Summer 2016
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
August 6
INNOCENCE LOST FREYA DALSJØ Time: 18:00 Place: Revolver Village Words: Jeppe Ugelvig
As indicated by Copenhagen Fashion Week’s much-distributed poster, the SS16 collection of Freya Dalsjø was one of the most anticipated. The mood was set when Denmark’s own Victoria’s Secret, Josephine Skriver, waltzed down the runway in a seemingly weightless, loosely fitted striped chiffon shirt, paired only with nude-sequined briefs – an homage to Carrie Bradshaw’s iconic runway moment, perhaps, or a simple allusion to the intimate celebration of girlhood Dalsjø presented as the sun set over Copenhagen. Titled Deflower, her seventh collection set out to explore the mythological point in a woman’s life where innocence is ‘lost’, and the naked body presents itself as a sexual object. Indeed, loss of innocence was the underlying narrative in the collection, examined through a variety of aesthetic angles. Colors were kept in soft pastels; from 70s-inspired bursts of olive in asymmetrical printed coats to the millennial reclaiming of baby pink. Although some of the graphic styles seemed repetitive, Dalsjø firmly guided the audience through a showcase of technical mastery; classic cocktail dresses disrupted by blueish zippers, juxtaposed with plastic contemporary tailoring. As cute as her pastels may seem, Dalsjø articulated a social critique with her collection. “What constitutes ‘the feminine’?” she seemed to ask through her use of classic tropes of feminine fashion history; the retro hoop-belts, the spaghetti-strap satin nightgown, the powerful two-piece suit were all there, interacting in a joyous and complex study of femininity. Dalsjø’s SS16 collection was as fresh, fun, and ambitious as we’ve ever seen her; her millennial babe is the emblem of the unlimited potential and appeal, in Denmark and far beyond.
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R AV E N P R OJ E C TS BY C I F F A UNI Q UE NEXT G ENERATION M ENSW EAR AND L I FESTYLE EX PERIENC E 5–7 AU G U ST 2 015 B EL L A CENTER COPENHAG EN C IFF.DK
No. 2 Spring Summer 2016
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
August 6
ECSTATIC THRUST ASGER JUUL LARSEN Time: 14:00 Place: Revolver Village Words: Jeppe Ugelvig
Asger Juel Larsen opened the already overheated tent at Copenhagen Fashion Week’s newest venue Revolver in the Vesterbro area, constructed above a festival-esque hangout space for industry professionals and amateur fashion enthusiasts alike. With a show titled ‘Ecstatic Lust,’ the London-educated menswear designer continued his pursuit for a new unconventional male silhouette. Choreographed in a contemplative poise, the models promenaded down a tropically graphic green carpet to an upbeat mix by Faroe DJ Brynjolfur. Equatorial vibes were evoked via alligator textures embossed on see-through PVC raincoats and bespoke monochromatic looks in shiny bronze. Tailored dress-pants and blazers were finished and juxtaposed with a sportswear detailing, reflecting Larsen’s ongoing negotiation of the two spheres of menswear that he occupies. It was a more fun and ambiguous sexuality that was presented from the former rock n’ roll aesthete: feminine crop tops, suggestive underwear and cheeky neckerchiefs were scattered around in the collection, equally evoking lustful sailors and masculine cowboys. Yet, after a strong opening, Larsen resorted to a distinctive trippy kind of graphics, applying psychedelic greens and fiery oranges to shirts, shirts, outerwear – even the press release was embellished in an explosion of graphic Tropicana. It felt unnecessary to chain his fantastically detailed garments to such a loud and, truthfully, unoriginal type of print. While there’s nothing new about graphic tropicalism (have a quick scroll at any current graphic design Tumblr), Larsen presented an impressive collection and alluded to an increasing maturity in his work, pushing for a radical reconfiguration of Danish menswear. His SS16 collection proves that he can be ecstatic in so many other ways.
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MAGNETIC
No. 2 Spring Summer 2016
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
August 6
CHAPTER ONE OF TWO Architect Jørn Utzon’s renowned Paustian house provided the light, white background for Ole Yde’s S/S 16 Parfum Exotique show. A Copenhagen event – with champagne and featuring a who’s who list of Yde’s fashion-connoisseur customers.
YDE BY OLE YDE Time: 15:00 Place: Paustian House Words: Lotte Freddie
Standouts included blue denim two-piece with embroidered glittering details on pockets or seams and a to-die-for simple navy-blue lace dress. Blue is the new black – also as a fantastic Yves Klein blue in a shirt dress with a culotte skirt, and as a sky blue in a mega zig zag Inca pattern mixed with orange. The collection is the first part of a larger collection that has been divided into two chapters. Number One is meant for the Scandinavian market. Number Two, more opulent, shall be shown in Paris in October.. Although “Marie Antoinette is always here” – a modern take on Tjaikowski’s Swanlake –underlined the designer’s wish for “something else than the usual,” both collections are inspired by exotic, faraway countries. Yde´s great fur success appeared as a fab burgundy mink summer jacket. And all in all, his fans – from royalty to mere mortals – will love the season’s news.
JOYFUL SIGH
There is always a certain mood at a Stasia show. The audience consists of many of her loyal customers, TV-personalities and jet-setters, whom she in her own way dazzles with glittery dresses and feminine silhouettes.
STASIA / LACE BY STASIA Time: 20.00 Place: Hotel d’Angleterre Words: Sille Henning
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The first, more commercial part of yesterday’s show featured easily wearable and affordable lace pieces all kept in white, black, and pale blue. Like the ruffled off-shoulder dress, the white cropped pants with a matching v-neck blouse with a lace insertion, the cocoon-shaped coat over lace turtleneck and pants, or the black and white silk blouse with a black collar, mixed with black culotte pants. The latter part of the show was the strongest, with its more couture-inspired evening dresses. Think long white dresses with black pearl embroideries, a black dreamy ruffled dress, or the black suit with a sleeveless jacket and slim pants with high white-pleated slits. Definitely styles we’ll see at red carpet events in the future.
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L I L Y
A L L E N
“ O n O r O f f s t a g e, I a d O r e f a s h I O n”
No. 2 Spring Summer 2016
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
August 6
PUSSY BOW UPRISING LOVECHILD 1979 Time: 14:00 Place: City Hall Words: Sille Henning
Copenhagen Fashion Week was offically kicked off with the Lovechild 1979 show yesterday. It was the label’s first show on the on-schedule calendar and also the first solo show by designer Anne-Dorthe Larsen, after the other founder Katrine Rabjerg left the label earlier this year. So of course it was interesting to see what direction Anne-Dorthe Larsen is taking the brand in. Overall, the collection stayed true to the brand’s DNA; think a printed silk suit in a loose silhouette, floaty pants in a soft striped yellow, long shorts with a feminine top. Meanwhile, it seemed more mature than previous offerings. The prints were stronger, including the delicate floral print in both deep blue and warm yellow, the graphic painted stripes, and of course the humorous red cherries, creating greater variety. The silhouettes were long and lean, with long pants under a sleeveless coat, or the straight upand-down dark blue jumpsuit, but there were also more boxy shapes, such as the cocoon-like black and white coat and a light blue woven jacket with matching cropped pants mixed with a pussybow shirt. Actually the bow was present on most of the looks, and added femininity and a slight retro feel to the easily wearable collection. Among my personal favorites were the sporty yellow floral bomber jacket and the skirt suit in black and white with a red bow. These and many other pieces will easily appeal to the label’s loyal followers.
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ÅBENT MANDAG - SØNDAG 10-20 • KØB OGSÅ PÅ MAGASIN.DK
No. 2 Spring Summer 2016
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
August 6
MOROCCAN LIGHTS LALA BERLIN Time: 16:00 Place: City Hall Words: Moussa Mchangama
“I wanted to say thank you to all our close collaborators in Denmark,” Iranian-German Leyla Piedayesh of Lala Berlin said backstage prior to her show debut on Copenhagen Fashion Week. Her show was a fitting way to respond to her Danish success: Piedayesh is one of the bigger players on the German fashion scene but is looking to expand more in Scandinavia. The show, which featured Danish model favorites Emma Oak, Kirstin Liljegren, Regitze Christensen, and Charlie Bredal, highlighted Lala Berlin’s strongpoint: the prints. She’s a master of creating interesting prints that stand out without being too much. Her signature Kufya print, a manipulated and graphic take on a partisan pattern, looked great – a gorgeous, flowy dress with a mesh top would look good for any summery occasion that includes wine and dancing. With bold yellow and blue and a loose, flowing silhouette, the casual silk pieces and a kaftan would be fitting in a riad in Marrakech. That was indeed another inspiration for Piedayesh this season, with cutouts and broderie anglaise referencing the artistic cutout patterns of traditional Moroccan windows. Piedayesh creates clothes that are highly wearable, but sometimes they become too plain – a straight, black jumpsuit and a marine blue set with fringes distracted and didn’t fit in, just like the boots didn’t work. It did highlight the print even more, but the minimalistic designs are not Piedayesh’ force. As such, they didn’t add anything to a show that overall presented the brand in a positive light. Welcome to Copenhagen.
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No. 2 Spring Summer 2016
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
August 6
BODY LANGUAGE MAIKEL TAWADROS Time: 17.00 Place: One Park Parking Garage Words: Sille Henning
Yesterday, designer Maikel Tawadros took us underground to a parking garage, and used the cold and industrial environment to underline the inspiration behind his SS16 collection ‘Bionic.’ Talking with the designer beforehand about his fascination of nature versus technology, he told that it all started when he learned about a computerized refrigerator that could do different thing on its own. This somehow both outraged and intrigued him. In the collection, this was visualized with cutouts and joints giving references to robots, gauze masks and sprocket-like jewelry. Fabric mixes played an important part, such as the red finale coat with a neoprene detailed surface mixed with dyed silver fox fur, or the coated jersey belted blazer with cutout shoulders. Tight leather in black and red together with the tight jersey dresses gave the collection a tough look with strong 90s grunge reference. It was a good collection that will cater perfectly to the designer’s more international customers, with bold statement pieces and more commercial jersey and knit styles as well. However, on the wish list for next seasons show would be a seating plan. Even though I am usually a fan of new and quirky locations, having a show where the entire audience is standing up in one big crowd is never a good idea.
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SKAGEN oG CoVER INVItERER dIG tIl At fEjRE CopENhAGEN fAShIoN WEEK Kom og se vores limited edition af SKAGEN x LeatherProjects og vores genåbnede butik. Onsdag d. 5. august fra kl. 18 – 20 Vimmelskaftet 42 (Strøget) 1161 København K
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No. 2 Spring Summer 2016
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
August 6
THE ROAD HAN KJØBENHAVN Time: 20:00 Place: Halmlageret Words: Moussa Mchangama
Han Kjøbenhavn is known for shows that combine installations and runway. Sometimes the installations take too much focus from the actual collection, which are, after all, what we come to see. But this time around, everything came together perfectly for the menswear brand. In the beautiful summer night, Han Kjøbenhavn presented its best show to date. “The final frontier,” the show notes read. “The suburbs will drown you. Existing is simply seeing another day.” A gang of masked men sat in the burned-out remnants of society – a broken-down car, cages, baseball bats, and big dogs created the scene. But it wasn’t just the showmanship that stood out – the collection was impressive, modern, and totally Han Kjøbenhavn. A soft pink gorgeously contrasted an earthy palette with greens, brown and marine blue. Combined with an exciting use of velvet, this added a new dimension to their offering and an edge to the sportiness of the signature nylon fabrics. There are loads of great and very sellable pieces in this collection, and it was more styled than before, with layers and different colors put together to create the look. That’s clever, because Han presents how actual people would wear its clothes. The label is on an exciting journey these years and just opened its third store, in Le Marais in Paris, a month ago. With this show, they cement that their direction is the right one. Keep up the good work.
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W W W. P I L G R I M . D K
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No. 2 Spring Summer 2016
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
August 6
NORDIC HIGH BARBARA I GONGINI Time: 19:00 Place: City Hall Words: Lotte Freddie
The dramatic, mighty nature of the Faroe Islands is expressed by a daughter of the islands, Barbara I Gongini, in her designs. Hers is a different take on Nordic style – less color or pastel-pretty-pretty. Instead, almost everything is black, radiating a kind of raw romanticism that appeals to discerning, “opinion forming” men and women across the world, according to the designer. Sometimes Gongini turns down the heat, but this time, her 10-year jubilee, she pulls out all the stops with a collection that is grungy in spirit, with a back-to-the-70s- and 80s feel. Clothes, with a strong focus on sustainability, aimed at men and women from the young to the everlasting-age customer. Here is of course a lot of black. In distressed cow leather, knit, wool cotton and silk. But also, “to avoid the black from making too much noise,” grey, in stitched coarse linen, nude, with a black abstract print and, in classics with a twist, tailored jersey and stripes in black and white. Jackets, cardigans, coats, dresses, and kaftans are fastened or draped in asymmetrical layers, often producing handkerchief seams and sometimes bare-skinned shoulders or hips. Heavy knits in black distressed fringes are fun showpieces meant to be “used in different ways.” Fabulous icicle necklaces from Gerda Lynggaard add an extra international touch to everything.
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No. 2 Spring Summer 2016
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
August 6
DESOLATE, ELABORATE HENRIK VIBSKOV Time: 22:00 Place: City Hall Words: Jeppe Ugelvig
Known for his off-site, larger-than-life installation showcases around Copenhagen, his SS16 show marked a new era for Henrik Vibskov, as he showed at the official City Hall venue for the first time. However, by no means did this mean a compromise on visual splendor; abstracted tent structures occupied and transformed the catwalk, creating an intriguing installation distinct of the artist-designer. ‘Team Vibs’ assistants in white lab coats escorted a hoard of otherworldly creatures in graphic full bodysuits onto the stage, placing them on pedestals as the collection unfolded. ‘The Hot Spray Escape’ took its inspiration from the brutal visuality of the desert. Bizarre fauna and geological illustrations were interpreted through quintessentially Vibskov maze-like patterns; here, the desert’s naturalism clashed with the man-made synthetics derived from contemporary culture’s embrace of plastic surgery and bodybuilding. Arabic kaftans and recontextualized expedition gear suggested an androgynous nomadic traveler, moving through a vast, apocalyptic landscape. First and foremost, Vibskov is a master of print; he presented an impressive new range of prints and patterns in red, mustard yellow, and black-and-white monochrome, and applied it to his classic looks, such as high-waisted trousers and oversized knits. As such, Vibskov’s silhouettes were not surprising, with the exception of a few exaggerated shoulders in some of the menswear looks. Still, his quirky futuristic myth of the desert resulted in the playful surrealism for which we know and love Henrik Vibskov. It was a curious strategy to fixate the ‘pure’ concept of his collection on his immobilized performers, thus preventing it from mixing with the very wearable garments. Vibskov always balances between the avant-garde and the accessible, and this time the latter weighed heavier.
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No. 2 Spring Summer 2016
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
August 6
STREET STYLE Photographer Victor Jones captures the strongest looks from off the runways. 1
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COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
No. 2 Spring Summer 2016
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JOSEPHINE AARKROGH, LAURA LAWAETZ & MIE JUEL LAURA TØNDER CECILIE THORSMARK ELISE BY OLSEN & ELIAS GOZAL STEPHANIE GUNDELACH & JONATHAN HARBOE HANNI GOHR
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COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
No. 2 Spring Summer 2016
Bloggers Marie, Sarah, and Stine make millions offering obvious style advice to the clueless.
August 6
The Brandi Cyrus of the Brasch Nielsen sisters, Frederikke Brasch never wears sneakers, only footwear icons.
Blinded by the sun, model Nadja Bender believed she was hailing a cab to get her daily makeover at the TresEmmé Blowout Bar.
BUSY BLOGGERS When you gather a bunch of fashion bloggers for a brunch like Toni & Guy did Wednesday, listen for whispered “I hate yous” underneath the air kisses. Photos: Helena Lundquist, Words: Magnus Jorem Julie Pallesen starts her day with a tray of multivitamins from VitaViva, which contain everything the model/blogger needs for her busy schedule.
DM&T’s As Øland worked hard to surpress a particularly nasty champagne burp; pictured here next to a stunned Chris Pedersen from DR.
Dangerous retail vixen Sara ‘Cobra Venom’ Samucha prefers the first-hand experience of second-hand luxuries
Former minister of the environment Kirsten Brosbøl and socialist party leader Pia Olesen Dyhr chose not to heed Eva Kruse’s advice of going sports-jersey-chic for the 2015 election season... and guess how their side of the aisle fared?
Stylist Stephanie Gundelach and countess Cath Danneskiold believe in inner harmony, self-sacrifice, serving the global community, micro-lending to third-world entrepreneurs, transcendental meditation, and Missoni.
POLITICAL MINGLING The usual bunch of bloggers, human concepts, and buyers were joined by skirted politicians at the Lovechild 1979 show onWednesday. Copenhagen’s mayor of integration Anna Mee Allerslev, spotted with CFW’s Eva Kruse, believes that fashion can unite all peoples, and bring a tidal wave of immigrants from distant lands into the fold of everyday Danish society.
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Photos: Helena Lundquist, Words: Magnus Jorem
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Yu Masui and Yuko Hirota of WWD are on a mission to obliterate all preconceived notions about Japanese behavior, and failing miserably.
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COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
No. 2 Spring Summer 2016
Stylist Mia Holdgaard with assistant Nicolai Javier, who catches sexual predators with the help of a concealed dagger that resembles a teddy bear.
Angel-faced rock singer Mattias Kolstrup spends hours every morning getting his golden locks shining, swirling and ready for the wind machines he fills his apartment, studio, and life with.
August 6
Gaudy TV dollface Emil Thorup recently described himself as the Pharrell Williams of Denmark – expect next year’s summer hit to be about lavish countryside mansions, being an embattled heterosexual, or hair bleach.
Karsten from Olufs Ispinde believes a healthy, wholesome breakfast consists of ice cream, cigarettes, and little else.
LIQUID BREAKFAST Brunch in Tommyland consists of gourmet ice cream, watermelon cubes, avant-garde juices and a whole lotta all-American preppiness. Photos: Helena Lundquist, Words: Magnus Jorem Actress Christian Schaumburg-Müller recently opened her own “personal universe” chrichri.dk, which encourages fans to “nourish the inner aspect” and not be superficial or self-absorbed or weak.
PRD’s Henrik Juhl and Tommy Hilfiger’s Jesper Wærum and Tiina Klinge usually hang out in large groups of handsome, multi-ethnic, upper-class Americans that vaguely resemble extended families with predilictions for preppy photoshoots.
Elle’s Maria Jernov inhabits a red-and-beige Moschino universe that would never let the likes of you in.
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Tommy Hilfiger’s Arno van Rooy and Jan Antonsson first went head over heels for the label in 1997 when they saw Ali G’s to-die-for yellow Hilfiger jumpsuit.
Cheerful style maven Uffe Buchard, known to close friends as “the Green Wizard,” shares his hypnotic homebrew with an unsuspecting Tommy fan.
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Tired editor Magnus Jorem didn’t renew his wardrobe this season either, but got by with a little help from Hilfiger.
Katrine Lee and Sofie Haumann call themselves “the Soul Sister bloggers” because they are like sisters if you look into their souls and disregard the useless and fleeting veils of exterior appearance. They blog about fashion.
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MEETING WITH AN AFTER PA RT Y
HOTEL
Krystalgade 22 -1172 København K - T: 33 45 91 00 - www.sktpetri.com
P R O U D P A R T N E R O F Copenhagen Fashion Week
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
No. 2 Spring Summer 2016
August 6
COPENHAGEN FASHION FESTIVAL EVENTS
FASHION SQUARE Pop-up Shops & TRESemmé Blow-Out Bar Thursday – Saturday 12.00-18.00 Nytorv Copenhagen K
GARDEN PARTY IN KRONPRINSENSGADE Thursday 6 August 15.00-12.00 Kronprinsensgade Copenhagen K
CALVIN KLEIN JEANS POP-UP STORE Shopping Event Thursday 6 August Magasin, Kongens Nytorv 13 Copenhagen K
FASHION CINEMA Iris Thursday 6 August 17.30-19.00 Magasin Kongens Nytorv 13 Copenhagen K
DISEMBODIED Fashion Exhibition Thursday August 6 19.00-22.00 Blaa Galleri Blågårdsgade 29
TRESEMMÉ BLOW-OUT BAR Free Hair Stylings Thursday - Saturday 12.00-18.00 Nytorv, Copenhagen K
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK ON SCHEDULE
EVENTS
EVENTS
By invitation only
BUSINESS LOUNGE
AFTER HOURS BY DEA
12.00 Fonnesbech
City Hall, Copenhagen V
KUDIBAL
13.00 CIFF Copenhagen
Thursday, 6 August: 10-20
CIFF Style Setters Bungalows
International Fashion Trade
Friday, 7 August: 10-17
C4-007, Center Boulevard 5,
Fair Visit
Copenhagen S
15.00 Ivan Grundahl
CIFF SHOWROOMS
16.00 Baum und Pferdgarten
LINGERI FASHION SHOW
17.00 Mark Kenly Domino Tan
CIFF Showrooms B5 2nd Floor,
STINE LADEFOGED
18.00 Bruuns Bazaar
Center Boulevard 5, Copenhagen S
SQUARE ONE COLLECTION
19.00 Saks Potts
Thursday 11.00-11.30
LAUNCH
20.00 Ganni 21.00 Anne Sofie Madsen
Thursday 16.00-18.00
Kødboderne 5, Copenhagen V STORM & FAMILY
Thursday 11.00-12.00
Sunday Club, Lille Kongensgade 16,
OFF SCHEDULE
Copenhagen K
By invitation only
Thursday 23.00-05.00
11.00 Rebeca Rebeca
T R A D E FA I R S
CIFF
Bella Center Center Boulevard 5 Copenhagen S
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CIFF RAVEN
Revolver Fishmarket District
Revolver Meatpacking District
Forum Copenhagen Julius Thomsens Plads 1 Frederiksberg C
Lokomotivværkstedet Otto Busses Vej 5A Copenhagen SV
Øksnehallen Halmtorvet 11 Copenhagen V
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No. 2 Spring Summer 2016
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
August 6
BACKSTAGE 1
2
3
1 — LALA BERLIN 2 — LALA BERLIN 3 — FREYA DALSJØ
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