Copenhagen Fashion Week The Daily Number 3

THE DA ILY COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

Autumn / Winter 2016

GLAMAZON CHIC

BY MALENE BIRGER

ARMY OF GRUNGE

GANNI

NIGHT RICHESSE

MARK KENLY DOMINO TAN

ITALIAN LOVE

BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN

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COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

No.3 Autumn Winter 2016

February 5

COPENHAGEN CLASSICS ELSEBETH MOURITSEN

versity were genius.

It symbolized a recovered faith, when By Malene Birger, Baum und Pferdgarten, and Mark Kenly Domino Tan respectively presented their new autumn collections in these grand high-ceilinged rooms that can easily compete with the grand palaces often used during international fashion weeks abroad.

Editor-in-Chief

Just like the old saying goes, clothing makes the (wo)man, the same does a location to a brand.

So, was it coincidence that three of Thursday’s shows were held in some of the finest buildings in Copenhagen? I choose to believe, not.

Framed by classical architecture with references to Greek and Italian style - rich in detail, colour, and material, the choices of Glyptoteket and Thorvaldsen museums and an assembly hall in the old Copenhagen Uni-

Different as they may be, they united the aspirations and self confidence of Copenhagen Fashion Week as being an important player in the global market place, and by using venues out of the extraordinary, where focus has been on beauty and craftsmanship, they automatically lifted their own designs to an even higher level, and this way became a catalyst for the overall optimism in society in general, and the fashion market in particular. They sent a message to the world that they dare to be bold about their unique abilities, without being too pompous.

will continue through today when innovative Nicholas Nybro borrows the limelight.

Across town, one of the oldest buildings Rundetårn (Round Tower), dating from the 17th century, has also been annexed by the fashion community. Not to mention the grande dame on Kongens Nytorv; the newly restored luxury hotel d’Angleterre, that has lent its Palm Court Ballroom to everything from couture dressmaker Jesper Høvring to hip menswear designer Asger Juel Larsen over the past few days.

As you would think that fashion and design is all about the new, the modern, the next wave, it is refreshing to see how the history and cultural heritage is not a contradiction with the novelties, but is in interplay with the desire to update the storytelling of Copenhagen as a brand destination.

The official venue at City Hall is also an old landmark building of Copenhagen, and, in the most democratic manner, acted host yesterday - to as diverse brands as the hailed Freya Dalsjø, commercial Lovechild1979 and foreign visitors Fashion Hong Kong - and

Check out the show schedule at C O P E N H A G E N FA S H I O N W E E K . C O M & download our free app for more details go to C O P E N H A G E N FA S H I O N F E S T I VA L . C O M

CONTRIBUTORS

PUBLISHER: Copenhagen Fashion Week

COPY EDITING: Louis Vernal

COVER PHOTO: Luka Roné

DISTRIBUTION: Signe Hye Mouritzen, Camilla Falkvist

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: Elsebeth Mouritzen

ART DIRECTOR: Marie Brodersen

PRINT: Berlingske Avistryk

DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR: Anne Christine Persson

WRITERS: Sille Henning, Lotte Freddie, Jeppe Ugelvig, Pernille Hammershøj Madsen, Courtney Forrest

PHOTOGRAPHERS: Luka Roné, Helena Lundquist, Victor Jones.

All show photos provided by Copenhagen Fashion Week.

ASSISTANT EDITOR: Frederik Højgaard

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SALES: Julie Steenstrup

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No.3 Autumn Winter 2016

ALL BRANDS IN SHOW SCHEDULE COMMIT TO ETHICAL CHARTER The Danish Fashion Ethical Charter, established in 2007, seeks to ensure the well-being of Danish models, to contribute to the creation of relevant and appropriate information about eating disorders, and to help raise awareness and influence attitudes in the fashion industry as well as in the media and in society in general.

Signing the charter became a requirement in order to show at Copenhagen Fashion Week as of March 2015, where a new and tightened version of the charter was presented. It was met by a great support from the industry.

We are pleased to inform that all brands on this season’s show schedule have signed the Danish Fashion Ethical Charter.

Join the list of more than 300 companies that have declared their support of the new charter at www.danishfashionethicalcharter.com.

February 5

WITH A NOD TO PUNK Swedish shoe brand Vagabond lives up to its name for the collections to be revealed during Copenhagen Fashion Week by wandering in past decades for inspiration and yet aiming for a future look with cutting-edge styles capturing and reflecting the punk music.

Showing this at Revolver trade fair is very important to Creative Director & Co-founder Marie Nilsson-Peterzén: - We are so happy to be here this season! It is the right place for Vagabond to greet our growing number of international clients, since Copenhagen is also the city for one of our newest concept stores, one of which we are very proud of.

lace-up shoe with a masculine touch. Boots are majorly important whether they are high, overknee or pointy. Squared toe, buckles and studs are detailing this season’s styles.

For men the love of the formal look with influences from the 50’s and the 60’s is key in the slender boot with a little heel, as well as formal shoes such as oxfords, derbies, and monks together with loafer and sneaker styles are important, though chunkier shoes are also playing a central role this season.

She heads the team in their Sweden workshop, where new prototypes of shoes and accessories are carefully designed and crafted every day. They are then turned into 2.5 million Vagabond products that reach 42 countries each year through about 2000 stores.

What the stores and consumers can expect later this year within the women’s range is a combination of femininity with formality for a minimalistic approach along with an edgy style with hints from the punk music culture. Key styles are loafers, Chelsea’s and the

SCANDINAVIAN SOFAS – MADE SIMPLE Shopping for coveted Scandi furniture items has never been easier. Copenhagen Fashion Week’s furniture partner Sofakompagniet offers a unique business model that cuts out costly middlemen and delivers the product to you straight from the factory. By controlling all business processes from design to delivery, Sofakompagniet offers excellent products at competitive products.

Showrooms will open in Copenhagen and Århus, allowing you to browse the selection before purchasing your next furniture favourite online.

A team of talented in-house designers creates a minimum of four collections a year, all products customisable in terms of fabrics, colours and legs.

NATURAL AWESOMENESS Pilgrim Jewellery adds more cool-factor than ever before with their choice of model for the newest campaign. And in their own words, it is a very good example of their core business, where they continuously work to refresh the brand and brand perception.

- The consumer is not just purchasing a piece of jewellery; she is also buying into the image that comes with that piece of jewellery. There is so much simplicity and yet a lot of thought behind – and love in it – and this little piece of pure natural awesomeness, is represented by Emma Leth, a girl, a person, a model with personality, heart, good looks and something to say, shares Katrine Seiffert Tiemroth, Head of Marketing & Communication at Pilgrim.

As an evolving company Pilgrim Jewellery have taken major steps throughout their 30 years in business, but especially these last

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years they have, despite very small budgets and a very big crisis surrounding us all, dared to change and believe that they could make it through a rebranding and repositioning.

One of the keys to maintaining their success is the fact that, even if trends come and go, that a steadfast will to walk the talk, and stay true to their story, even though it at times was tough to keep focus in sustained opposition.

The secret is a closely knit design team consisting of sisters-in-law Anne Mette Markvad and Birte Markvad supplemented by Tess Dam, who have worked together for decades. They know the origin and history of the brand so well, that they use the DNA to move forward.

time, some consumers haven’t yet discovered it. Now that this style has comes back into fashion, we reinterpret it in a minimalistic way to stay current, and always with a feminine touch, says designer Birte Markvad.

- We need to show everybody something new, to make people see, that we chance, adds Katrine Seiffert Tiemroth to the fact that Pilgrim produces four large and varied collections each year, just like many of the fashion labels.

- We started out as a hippie-ish bohemian brand, and even if we have changed over

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February 5

AIRPORT POP-UP SHOP After 13 years of successful wholesale, Danish accessories brand Becksöndergaard now takes the big leap into retail, when they open a popup store on March 3 at Copenhagen Airport in the coveted tax-free area, where major domestic and international fashion and lifestyle brands are already present.

- We are very excited about presenting Becksöndergaard in our own universe for the first time in the history of the brand. We are looking forward to inviting our costumers inside a retail concept, which we think balances well between the feminine and whimsical and at the same time presents a timeless Danish design imprint, says Anna Søndergaard, who started the accessories brand in 2003 with Lis Beck.

The key to their immediate success then was the niche they found in the fashion marketplace for products made from South Korean eel skin, but since then the designers have developed accessories in other materials for scarves, jewellery, handbags, belts and purses. They now do business with 1.400 retailers, web-shops and department stores across Europe, in Japan and USA, but the pop-up shop will give the many travellers passing through Copenhagen Airport an exclusive look into the brand’s Wönderland, as they call it.

- This is our first step on the way to creating a boutique concept, and it has been great fun. It feels like giving the outside world a peek into our showroom, where the Becksöndergaard team develops new ideas every day, says Anna Søndergaard with reference to their universe of douche colours, geometric edges and characteristic wood.

Becksöndergaard is among the leading accessory-brands in the mid to high market segment with a current turnover of €13,7m .

Their decision to implement this new strategy has been reinforced by the investment, that Swedish equity fund Valedo made two years ago, securing a strong economic platform for the company, while the founders are still major stakeholders.

EYEWEAR FIRST MOVER Sunglasses have long been the ultimate fashion accessory, especially those with the right brand name and logo, but recently prescription glasses of designer origin are making a fast move forward.

Someone who knows everything about this is Copenhagen’s exclusive frontrunner in eyewear of 45 years, Poul Stig Briller, who is ceasing the opportunity of using Copenhagen Fashion Festival to launch new models from Céline and Alhem at their Østergade branch, as part of their anniversary celebrations.

- We spend a lot of time finding small, new brands, and every year we look for novelties at fairs in Paris, Milan, and New York. To us

it is all about discovering brands, that are different, quirky or just have a great story behind the design, says Sara Devantier, store manager at the Frederiksberg branch of Poul Stig Briller.

have competitors following in their footsteps, but as soon as Poul Stig Briller sense that a brand is about to go into a broader distribution, they are already on the lookout for the next big thing in eyewear.

They have the exclusive rights to most of their brands, and their reputation for being selective is renowned within the eyewear business, so many brands make the initial contact themselves, in order to break into the Danish market.

Right now they are proud to offer the new collections from Céline and Ahlem, and especially the latter has become a favourite of celebrities, counting Kendall Jenner, Kate Moss and, A$AP Rocky as fans.

The staff’s keen eye for upcoming designers, and their ability to make them successful,

CLEANSING COCONUT

FASHION WEEK MEDIA

The preferred hair care partner of Copenhagen Fashion Week, TRESemmé, has released a new shampoo and conditioner series, just in time for fashion week. The TRESemmé Botanique line is inspired by nature and contains coconut milk, coconut oil and aloe vera extract in a new, innovative formula that provides everything that is needed for a beautiful and healthy looking hair.

Copenhagen Fashion Week distributes show photos, show videos, street style photos, and interviews.

Press can register for our Media Bank where all content can be downloaded for print and online publication as soon as access has been granted.

The show photos are available for download in high-resolution shortly after each show. The street style photos can be requested per email and will be transferred late at night or the following day. Request street style: press@copenhagenfashionweek.com

TRESemmé Botanique gives a gentle cleansing and lightweight condition, moisturising the hair without weighing it down. The series contains no silicones or dyes, and provides nourishment for your hair.

When publishing our photos, please use the following credit: COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK® Register for access at copenhagenfashionweek.com

TRESemmé is sold in all Danish retailers and in Matas.

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February 5

SCHOOL GIRL GRUNGE GANNI Time: 21:00 Place: Penthouse Words: Jeppe Ugelvig

For A/W16, Ganni’s creative director Ditte Refstrup came out as nothing but ’Anglophile’ – mashing up a pallet of Brit references, from Damon Albarn to Queen Elizabeth. As lengthily explored at other houses during Copenhagen Fashion Week, the 90’s era is a practically infinite source of inspiration, the time of the great youth-cultural clash of visualities that led to the break-down of modernism’s rigid aesthetic hierarchies.

The almost iconic Gl. Torv nightclub Penthouse had been transformed to a grungy salon, bathed in red limelight and hedonist Britpop banging out its speakers: undoubtedly, the preferred habitat of the new Ganni girl. Audiences were cramped into nightclub booths while an army of grunge waltzed through the multi-storey venue in a carefree fashion.

There were some brilliant looks – oversized blazers on top a dress on top a school uniform sweater – and collectively, the garments formed a collection that was tolerably nostalgic and forward-looking. An army-green bomber jacket paired effortlessly with loose silk tracksuit pants, and the baby pink skirt with a chunky clipper belts was the highlight of the heavily styled show.

The more quiet moments of sand monochrome reminded us of Ganni’s easy, breezy, beautiful-approach to fashion, that underlies the fun, sexy and easy aspect of a woman’s wardrobe.

Some outfits seemed a little caricatured – we chose to ignore the fake leopard fur – but maybe that’s OK for a brand whose usual biggest challenge is conventionality.

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No.3 Autumn Winter 2016

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February 5

FREYA IN FURS FREYA DALSJØ Time: 12:00 Place: City Hall Words: Jeppe Ugelvig

Last season witnessed a revitalised Freya Dalsjø; youthful in expression while remaining loyal to her instinctual sensibility for luxury. What could possibly trump or even succeed such a seminal statement? As the crowds gathered in the Town Hall, an ambient Bollywood soprano lingered in the air – alluding to a collection that was the very embodiment of femininity.

The risk of doing a conceptual collection is the subsequent, potentially awkward, return to formalism. Not to say that Dalsjø ever strayed from supreme craftsmanship, and she underlined this with a series of skilfully constructed creased white tops and dresses, and anti-fit jackets with rows of appliqué patches. The 70s reappeared in a more abstract manner, surfacing in wide, rust-coloured corduroy silhouettes and delicate striped silk print with an added touch of blue.

Certainly, Dalsjø works the best when she aims for her younger clients: one- and off-shoulder tops reminisced carefree teenage summers, and a street-savvy quilted bomber jacket had gone Dalsjø Deluxe in supreme dyed leather.

Denmark’s queen of fur presented a whole new series of gob-smacking innovations in the precious material, translating Greenlandic mink into divine cropped coats with exposed hemlines, and comfy-looking tippets that glimmered like aurora borealis in a deep spectrum of otherworldly colours.

It was a continuation rather than a repetition of last year’s reboot, a dimmed-down collection that instead of re-invention reflected upon the designer’s own growing heritage. Freya Dalsjø is a forced to be reckoned with, and has cemented her name in the upper-segment market of uncompromised luxury – I mean, did you see those furs?

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February 5

ON THE PATH OF TAILORING MAIKEL TAWADROS Time: 11:00 Place: The Round Tower Words: Pernille Hammershøj Madsen

Maikel Tawadros had chosen the historical landmark; Round Tower, as the location of his AW16 show. The music was upbeat and vigorous as the first model took the stage.

The understated designer took inspiration from a militant aesthetic, but while working on the collection, he realized that he needed something to soften it up. To do so, he looked in the direction of the late ‘40s – a time where Europe had overcome the Second World War and women’s fashion was blossoming into a more positive expression.

The dimensions of traditional tailoring and the potential of the uniform were themes explored as Tawadros used lengthy stern collars, hand made majorettes-hats, and chains on jackets as a reference to military medallions. To retain the sense of uniformity the garments were kept in understated indigo blue, anthracite grey and shades of green. Silk chiffons, velvet, opulent fox, and Japanese denim gave the styles a current look and a crisp feel.

A pity, that Maikel Tawadros failed to emphasize his post-war vision and thus, losing the overall storyline of the collection, something he could have avoided, by for instance, adding a trench coat. Nevertheless Tawadros is slowly but surely moving away from the avant-garde in favour of a tailored look in accordance with fashion trends – and it seems like the right direction to move in!

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THE NEW BREED S/S 16

#MODERNVAGABOND

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

No.3 Autumn Winter 2016

February 5

COMMERCIAL DNA ASGER JUEL LARSEN Time: 20:00 Place: Hotel D’Angleterre Words: Courtney Forrest

The lights went down at The Palm Court at Hotel D’Angleterre and the super-cool crowd one comes to expect at an Asger Juel Larsen show stared silently at the drum/dj set in the center of the room.

A thumping drum baseline and haunting score, produced in collaboration with Simon and Rasmus Littauer, reached a heart-pounding crescendo as we were transported to Juel Larsen’s post-apocalyptic universe where “more rules” means “more rule-breakers.”

Dubbed “Born Worn”, the collection was a series of mash-ups: vintage and futuristic, rockabilly and hillbilly, urban and the wild. There was a sense of the hunter versus the hunted, echoed by the somber tones and use of various sized fur pelts, as if found after an animal face-off. Tartans, weather-finished leathers, knits and natural soy waxed cottons were all layered and mixed together with a devil-may-care attitude.

Body shapes ranged from super slim to slightly slouchy to over-exaggerated volume – all tailored to perfection. Where he used deconstruction, as in frayed hems, it felt more deliberate than in past seasons. The only misstep was where things went a bit too Midnight Cowboy with bolero ties and Western belts.

Juel Larsen’s strength lies in his outerwear, and this season was no exception. That said, this collection as a whole was his most well-thought-out from start to finish. He described it as, “a bit more commercial than you’ve seen from me before, but still very much my DNA. You can feel me out there, I feel myself out there.”

We feel you, Asger.

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February 5

THE DAWN OF THE EXSTEEN ERA

BY MALENE BIRGER Time: 14:00 Place: Glyptoteket Words: Courtney Forrest

The grand atmosphere of the Glyptoteket art museum juxtaposed with the ultra-modern Perspex installation set the stage for one of By Malene Birger designer Christina Exsteen’s strongest collections to date. The vibe was established from the first beat of Beyonce’s “7/11” – sexy, glamorous, strong. The red-lipped model army, including Josephine Skriver and Caroline Brasch, strutted the catwalk exuding power and confidence.

Exsteen described her inspiration as a “21st century femme fatale”, “understated and sophisticated”, “alluring and sexy.” She hit all of these notes with a focused collection that was refined, and thoroughly modern. The collection was 70’s glamazon meets 80’s power woman, with a splashes of 40’s Hepburn. The jewel-toned palette felt incredibly luxe as sensuous fox, silk, lace and mohair combined with leather and patent.

It was a true celebration of the feminine form – with a strong emphasis on the waist in paper-bag trousers and cinched-belted coats. Sharply tailored power-suitings felt crisp, while boudoir-inspired robes and slip dresses created an air of nonchalance.

The “bells and whistles” were kept to a minimum – over-sized buttons, sequins, pearls and crystals added just the right amount of oomph to over-sized pockets, lapels, and skirt hems. Futuristic Perspex-heeled mod boots and the brand’s signature handbags added the final polish.

Exsteen has really come into her own, firmly cementing her vision for this next chapter of the beloved brand’s evolution. By Malene Birger’s legion of international fans are in good hands, and should be excited about what the future holds.

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February 5

LOVECHILD IN TRANSFORMATION LOVECHILD 1979 Time: 18:00 Place: City Hall Words: Pernille Hammershøj Madsen A collection about transformation, in more than just one sense. Like the transition from adolescence to adulthood, is how Lovechild1979 describes its AW16 collection.

The models marched out as the muttering sounds of a female-voiced moan gradually filled the speakers: was this the Creative Director’s subtle reference to the coming-of-age-theme? The answer remains unclear. In her search for inspiration, the designer, Anne Dorthe Larsen, heavily drew on her 90’s upbringing – which was presented with exactitude, exemplified by the models all wearing sharp, banged wigs - in case you missed the reference through the clothes.

Lovechild 1979 certainly presented wearable designs for an everyday purpose but unfortunately an element of exclusivity was missing. Wide pants, midi skirts, a pajamas look, and three quarter sleeves - some complimented with a shirt underneath. With all this, a preppy, boarding school look was what came to mind: Grey and light blue with long, dark grey socks in black loafers. A sudden tone of turquoise was a refreshing element to a collection otherwise kept in dark colours.

Favourite pieces, were the label’s long, woollen coats and a short reversible sheepskin jacket.

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No.3 Autumn Winter 2016

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

February 5

SMILES OF A SUMMER NIGHT BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN Time: 19:00 Place: Thorvaldsen Museum Words: Lotte Freddie

Luca Guadagnino’s beautiful, heartbreaking, prize winning film, Io sono l’amore – I Am Love – was filmed in Milan’s fabulous Villa Necchi Campiglio, designed by architect Piero Portaluppi in 1930. The mansion, an Art Deco icon, “part palace, part museum, and part prison” - according to the film’s star, Tilda Swinton - is the inspiration for Baum und Pferdgarten’s winter collection 2016.

The lines and patterns of the interior, adorn all of the material. Like a fan motive printed on green silk or on brown velvet in a dress with matching 70’s styled flared trousers. This period influences other trouser suits – in wine or bottle green velvet or as black and white stripes with frills bordering the flared trouser slits. Leopard is used as marvellous palazzo pants worn under a straight matching dress – or as cuffs giving jackets extra vroom vroom.

A sophisticated sailor theme comes as navy striped white in sections on wide trousers worn under long matching coats. And as gold buttons thrown onto jackets or along slits on narrow sexy knitted midi dresses.

Helle Hestehave and Rikke Baumgarten love gold and Art Deco references. This shows in a todie-for midi length A-line skirt in bronze gold brocade, a marvel of understated simplicity, the same is the material in a swanky 90’s bomber jacket.

Perfect Modern Romance charms as a loose leaf patterned cream dress – straight out of Bergman’s Smiles of a Summer Night - and as a long fake fur coat worn over a long lace dress, both leaf green. And fab, three-dimensional lace in chestnut or black, is absolutely lovely in loose 20’s style cuts – worn with crystal embroidered socks in gold shoes – from Top Shop.

This is clever design; a reason people come here.

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February 5

COPENHAGEN RICHESSE

MARK KENLY DOMINO TAN Time: 17:00 Place: Krystalgade 25 Words: Jeppe Ugelvig

Mark Kenly Domino Tan brilliantly modernises the medium of ‘eveningwear’, a category that is left largely ignored by young sportswear-fetishizing graduates these days. It is wonderful to see a young talent, marked by his training at the forward-looking Royal College of Art to re-evaluate keywords such as elegance, serenity, and high-drama. Presenting in a beautifully lit, venetian-style ballroom, with champagne and even a live cellist - it was Danish richesse at its finest.

Tan’s practice borders to that of a couturier: materials forming the aesthetic basis of every collection, each garment carefully produced in his atelier with highly skilled tailors. His new collection echoed this with a symphony of highly constructed, almost Gothic gowns and exuberant furs in swakara skins, sourced from Namibia in collaboration with Kopenhagen Fur, and imprinted with rich graphics. Furthermore, the designer had drawn on his Chinese heritage with mandarin collars and rich sequin appliqués (a postmodern nod to Maggie Cheung from In the Mood for Love?). Two menswear-looks heightened his vision with a mesmerising rainbow-like coat that faded from grey to bright pink to broken mustard.

Had it not been for one model’s rather brutal Naomi Campbell-moment, and the disconcerting angst in most of the girls’ faces (and postures) due to some excessively high-heeled accessorising, Domino Tan perfected the kind of high-drama couture ethos that Malene Birger once introduced to Copenhagen, many years ago. A diva-in-the-making, Tan channelled his inner Valentino as he received a standing applause from the Danish noblesse – hail Mark (and flats next time)!

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February 5

YOUTHFUL FLAIR BIRGER CHRISTENSEN Time: 16.00 Place: Hotel D’Angleterre Words: Sille Henning

When talking to designer Michael Kristensen before the Birger Christensen show, he said that the intention behind the new collection had been to showcase a more democratic range of work, with designs and prices catering to a younger audience. This was highlighted by new, more dynamic designs, such as; the graceful swakara poncho with knitted ribbings or the boyish neoprene sweatshirt with a front of exclusive sable fur.

The show, set in the exquisite settings of the Palm Court, at Hotel d’Angleterre, opened with a beautiful Italian wool coat with off-white mink, demonstrating this mixture of materials as one of the key elements of the collection. Of course there were also more traditional styles such as an off white fox cape, and the claret long mink cape.

One of the stand out piece was the red coat with cut & sewn patchwork, flowers and the blue and green swakara fur, in colours so vivid and dynamic, they almost imitated a print.

Yet another new thing was that the fur collection also included menswear, which can be a difficult discipline if not mastered with perfection, but here, it shone in a well-executed manner.

Many desirable pieces, like the racoon coat with big monogram buttons or the hooded college jacket that mixed fur and leather.

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February 5

KRÜGER Time: 10.00 Place: Christian IV Brewery House Words: Sille Henning

URBAN INUIT GUISE The young emerging designer Pernille Krüger, who graduated from KEA – Copenhagen School of Design, back in 2014, founded the Danish brand Krüger just last year. This was her first show, but second collection, and like the preceding; this one also included both men’s and womenswear - a bold move for a newcomer.

The inspiration for the collection was drawn from the urban contemporary, hip hop culture and its street fashion – such as oversized mesh hoodies, cropped tops, and drawstring pants. Interestingly, some of the cut lines and silhouettes also resembled an almost Inuit-like guise; the neckline of an anorak and a fur rimmed hood, with a hint of futurism Krüger had a good overall vision with many intricate details; however, the collection lacked that final convincing touch of know-how and maturity, which hopefully will come with further experience.

FROM DAY TO EVENING FASHION HONG KONG Time: 15:00 Place: City Hall Words: Lotte Freddie

Fashion Hong Kong is devised to promote Hong Kong designers by establishing overseas events.

One such took place at City Hall where three designers showed their expressions of contemporary life. Doris Kath Chan’s collection “Little by Little” – “symbolic of innocence and a fresh start in life”, consisted of modern “schoolmarm” separates – black, soft, midi length skirts, cardigans and coats with white shirts. Wearable and pretty. So were both a clever coat, lightly stitched in a red and blue geometric pattern and jackets and bell skirts in bronze cloqué. “Be Not So Gentle” was Kenax Leung’s message, inspired by the artist Mel Kendrick. And indeed Leung’s mix of tartans, stripes, and shining fake leather in coats, sweaters, and jackets was cool, hip and almost advanced. Like putting a man’s dark grey dotted suit jacket with light grey dotted trousers. Lulu Cheung’s ballet inspired “Flow” dresses mirrored fashion’s present black and white trend with ample skirts dancing under slim tops.

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Sponsered by Scholl

COPENHAGEN FEET STYLE It’s all in the details; No look is complete unless well-groomed from head to toe – and all seasons require well-groomed feet. Scholl is all about gentle foot care, making your feet look and feel healthy. Therefore, during Copenhagen Fashion Week, Scholl celebrates the gorgeous fashion feet details of runways and red carpets alike in the tribute series “Copenhagen Feet Style”. Thursday was another fabulous fashion week day, and the street style crowd put forward their best fashion feet.

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No.3 Autumn Winter 2016

February 5

ALL EARS The opening of the B&O Play art photo exhibit at Galleri K, running through Saturday, drew a musical crowd, which explored the sensory rooms by listening to the music of others.

Photos: Helena Lundquist, Words: Elsebeth Mouritsen

Lifestyle entrepreneur Christiane Schaumburg-Müller is definitely a pop girl, and when travelling, it’s the sounds of Miley Cyrus, Szhirley; Sia, and Stine Bramsen, that fill her auditory canals, while Ol’ Blue Eyes commands the speakers in her living room.

The dance-pop entertainer Lina Rafn was raised to the electro-acoustic tunes of Andreas Wollenweider, which she get’s a nostalgic kick out of listening to. Her playlist for exercising and stretching is more hardcore upbeat.

Stylist Andres Artiles dresses the cool and urban Danish pop crowd, so naturally he listens to Cisilia, Citybois, Nabiha, and Joey Moe, but he is also keen on the tunes of Justin Bieber.

copenhagenfashionweek.com

Danish R&B-singer Szhirley is about to finish a new album, and has had enough of listening to herself for the time being, so frequenting her playlist at the moment is All My Friends with Snakehips.

The ethereal model Sara Polano was elegantly posing with herself in in this renaissance-styled setting of the B&O Play exhitibion. On her personal playlist is Coffee by Sylvan Esso to be found.

THE DAILY

R&B-chanteuse Karen Rosenberg knows no better sound than the chattering of her 3-month-old son Fritz, but when she needs to relax and shut out all outside noise, she immerses herself in the film scores Thomas Newman.

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Download the “Revolver Fashion Trade Show� app via App Store or Android Market, and find the exhibiting brands and your own way through Revolver Village!

Revolver Village Venue - Tietgensgade 65, 1704 Copenhagen V www.revolver.dk

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

No.3 Autumn Winter 2016

Designer Malene Birger & actress,Ellen Hillingsø “I am expecting a good and strong collection, nice silhouettes, and some glitz and glamour, which is a strong design element of the By Malene Birger fashion house that Christina Exsteen continues to uphold.“ Malene Birger told The Daily. “I have many good memories from By Malene Birger. I remember once when Malene Birger was still the creative director and 32 evening gowns were presented along with an Indian-inspired crown.” Actress Ellen Hillingsø said to The Daily.

February 5

Supermodel, Nadja Bender “I have never walked the By Malene Birger show but she is one of my favourite Danish designers. I really loved the grace of her summer collection and hopefully it will be the same, just in a winterier version.

My favourite By Malene Birger piece is a lovely beige jacket with giant flowers on the back – you’ll probably find others wearing it today!”

AN EXCLUSIVE CROWD As the front row seats were filling up at the By Malene Birger show, The Daily spoke to the who’s who of the industry.

Actress, Birgitte Hjort Sørensen “My favourite item from By Malene Birger is a all the great memories - and then a black dress, which is sort of like an oversized t-shit with silver sleeves. The good thing about it is, that you can actually have dessert while wearing it, ‘cause it doesn’t sit too tight around the stomach area.“

Photos: Helena Lundquist, Words: Pernille Hammershøj Madsen, FashionFladen.dk

Pop-diva, Medina “I really liked the colours of the collection and the materials looked soft and comfortable.

Christina Exsteen is doing a really good job, as the replacement of Malene Birger. My best memory with the label, was when I was allowed into “the secret room” to choose some of their beautiful vintage pieces. It was like entering a beauty box that contained everything a girl could ever wish for.”

copenhagenfashionweek.com

Actress & tv-presenter, Amelia Hoy I liked that By Malene Birger created a femme fatale, that at the same time, were modern, structured, and seductive - it was very delicious and fun. One of my favourite items from By Malene Birger is a golden suit in two pieces that I bought many seasons ago, but I love it! You never go wrong with gold!

Skin care mogul, Andrea Elisabeth Rudolph “I always crave the By Malene Birger show. Their locations are always beautiful and exciting. I have a lot of pencil skirts which I have had for years and will keep wearing for many to come!”

THE DAILY

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COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

No.3 Autumn Winter 2016

Bloggers Funda Christophersen, Trine Kjær and Frederikke Toftsø were spot on with the pajama trend.

Stylist Barbara Gullstein did nothing to disguise that a second love child with heartthrob singer Rasmus Walther is on its way.

February 5

Partyman Tue Nagel and film critic at TV2 Ann Lind Andersen opted for an adult grunge-look.

NIGHT AT THE MUSEUM Although the invite did not imply a print and pattern dress code, several in the front row at Baum und Pferdgarten seemed to want to blend in with the mosaic-tiled catwalk.

Photos: Helena Lundquist, Words: Elsebeth Mouritzen BFFs fashion professional Uffe Buchard and “barefoot baroness” Caroline Fleming snuggling up.

Girls night out for actresses Beate Bille og Laura Christensen, looking slightly androgynous in suits.

Danish singer Fallulah debuted years ago with a song called Out Of It, but she seemed very into the groove of Baum und Pferdgartens new collection.

copenhagenfashionweek.com

It became a cosy affair with Helle Hestehave and Rikke Baum, when they transformed one of the classic galleries at Thorvaldsens Museum into a fashion venue, complete with giant horse statues.

THE DAILY

Stylist and celeb-dresser Pernille Teisbæk knows her way around Copenhagen, and shares her best tips with readers of vogue.com

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No.3 Autumn Winter 2016

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

February 5

BACKSTAGE GANNI

copenhagenfashionweek.com

THE DAILY

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C R I S P, C R U N C H Y A N D C R U S T Y HOUSE-BAKED ORGANIC BREAD, GOURMET SANDWICHES AND OUT-OF-THIS-WORLD PIZZAS, HOTEL SKT. PETRI’S CAFÉ BRØL SERVES BAKERY BITES WITH A WIDE SELECTION OF DANISH CRAFT-BREWED BEERS.

P R O U D PA RT N E R O F COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

K R Y S TA L G A D E 2 2 | 1 1 7 2 C O P E N H A G E N | D E N M A R K + 4 5 3 3 4 5 9 1 0 0 | S TAY @ S K T P E T R I . C O M

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

No.3 Autumn Winter 2016

February 5

COPENHAGEN FASHION FESTIVAL EVENTS OPEN TO ALL FASHION TALK: MODEL TALK ZALANDO FASHION HOUSE – TREND RUNWAY SHOW Friday 19.30 City Hall Rådhuspladsen 1 Copenhagen V CPH FINEST FASHION WEEK CLOSING CELEBRATION AW16 Friday 22.00 Odd Fellow Palace Bredgade 28 Copenhagen K

MEET HOLLYWOOD SUPERSTAR GERARD BUTLER AT MAGASIN Friday 15.30 Magasin Du Nord Kongens Nytorv 13 Copenhagen K

MARIMEKKO FASHION LAUNCH CELEBRATION Friday 16.00 Marimekko Købmagergade 13 Copenhagen K

ART MEETS FUR EXHIBITION AT BIRGER CHRISTENSEN Friday 17.00-19.00 Saturday 12:00-14:00 Birger Christensen Østergade 38 Copenhagen K

KADK EXHIBITION: THE FASHION DESIGNERS OF TOMORROW Friday – Sunday Skt Petri Hotel Krystalgade 22 Copenhagen K

FASHION ICON CAROLINE DE MAIGRET AT THE BLACK DIAMOND The Black Diamond – The Royal Library Dronningesalen Søren Kierkegaards Plads 1 Copenhagen K

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK ON SCHEDULE

OFF SCHEDULE

By invitation only

By invitation only

BUSINESS LOUNGE

13.00 CIFF Trade Fair Visit

10.00 HENRIKSILVIUS

City Hall, Rådhuspladsen 1

14.00 Nicholas Nybro

11.00 Peter Schamaun

Copenhagen V

15.00 Designers’ Nest

12.00 Federico D’Angelo 17.00 VIA Design 19.00 Trine Lindegaard

T R A D E FA I R S

copenhagenfashionweek.com

CIFF

CIFF Raven

Bella Center Center Boulevard 5 Copenhagen S

Bella Center Center Boulevard 5 Copenhagen S

THE DAILY

Wednesday, 3 February: 11-22 Thursday, 4 February: 10-19 Friday, 5 February: 9-18

Revolver Copenhagen Int. Fashion Trade Show Revolver Village Tietgensgade 65 Copenhagen V

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FASHIONFORUM.DK

No.3 Autumn Winter 2016

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

February 5

BACKSTAGE 2

1

3

1 — BY MALENE BIRGER 2 — MARK KENLY DOMINO TAN 3 — BY MALENE BIRGER

MARK KENLY DOMINO TAN copenhagenfashionweek.com

THE DAILY

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