Copenhagen Fashion Week The Daily SS16 No. 4

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

THE DA ILY Spring / Summer 2016

CONCEPTUAL COUP

NICHOLAS NYBRO

PRINT PERFECT

T.A.C.

ORGANIC MENSWEAR

ELLEN PEDERSEN

PUBLIC UNDRESSING

ANNE SOFIE MADSEN

No. 4

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

No. 4 Spring Summer 2016

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MADE IN DENMARK ELSEBETH MOURITZEN

help the already established fashion companies build international success, it is important also to remember the bold initiative from his colleague in Claire Group, Nikolaj Hust.

Editor-in-Chief

His company is deeply rooted in mainland Denmark, where a long, proud tradition of manufacturing clothes for local brands was wiped out by the competition from Southern Europe and the Far East decades ago. However, this fall he’ll start a new project called Sylab, with which the Claire Group wants to create a new workroom concept by insourcing some of the preliminary steps in the course of production.

This fashion week, the focus has been on talent more than ever before. From the opening show of Lovechild 1979 over design school bachelors to yesterday’s debut for T.A.C. and Ellen Pedersen, not to forget the popular recurring talent competition, Designers’ Nest, which has royal as well as industry awareness.

It is almost a cliché that it is the new talent that secures our future as a business. But with Ganni CEO Nikolaj Reffstrup in mind, when he encourages design graduates to come

Knowing it will be too ambitious to think they can move everything back from the foreign workrooms, he still sees it as an opportunity to re-establish some of the lost domestic jobs, and give the brand good reason to – proudly – market its products as Made in Denmark. That, and secure quality-control and bring craftsmanship back.

dents and graduates for future production possibilities. This part of the project goes hand-in-hand with the so-called Noma-effect – by which one high-end institution lifts the field at large – which also applies to fashion.

With an increasing demand for luxury products among consumers, it is time to rethink production methods. It is not luxury as we know it from the traditional logo-driven companies, but more likely inspired by high street brands like COS and &Other Stories.

Timeless details like fabric belts and buttons, welt pockets, special seams and raglan sleeves in delicate materials to adorn simple silhouettes are more and more sought after.

These require special skills to make, but as the know-how of the old craft is slowly disappearing, it is good timing of Sylab to revive and hone it in domestic workrooms.

That’s talented thinking.

And the beauty of Sylab is also the intention to work innovatively with VIA, the local design school in Herning, to prepare the stu-

Check out the show schedule at C O P E N H A G E N FA S H I O N W E E K . C O M & download our free app for more details go to C O P E N H A G E N FA S H I O N F E S T I VA L . C O M

CONTRIBUTORS

PUBLISHER: Copenhagen Fashion Week

EDITORIAL ASSISTANT: Frederik Højgaard

EXECUTIVE EDITOR: Anne Christine Persson

ART DIRECTOR: Marie Brodersen

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: Elsebeth Mouritzen

GRAPHIC DESIGNER: Liv Caroline Hotvedt Laursen

SUB-EDITOR: Magnus Jorem

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WRITERS: Moussa Mchangama, Lotte Freddie, Sille Henning, Jeppe Ugelvig COVER PHOTO: Luka Roné at Nicholas Nybro PHOTOGRAPHERS: Luka Roné, Helena Lundquist, Victor Jones.

All show photos provided by Copenhagen Fashion Week

SALES: Julie Steenstrup DISTRIBUTION: Maya Juel Ladewig Andersen PRINT: Berlingske Avistryk

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BACK TO THE ROOTS Though no longer in Danish hands, the lifestyle brand Skagen is still very much associated with its origin in the seaside village on the far northern tip of Jutland, where North and Baltic Seas meet. The current owner, Fossil Group, wants to draw on this unique heritage, and it shows in the newly remodeled retail concept store on Copenhagen’s busy pedestrian shopping street, Strøget.

Weathered wood shelving showcases the brand’s full assortment of watches, jewelry and leather accessories for men and women.

An integral piece to this and other concept stores is the large communal table that honors the Danish tradition of “hygge” – the ritual of enjoying and sharing good times. Surrounded

by Hans Wegner wishbone chairs, the table is meant to provide an inviting, interactive customer experience.

The new Copenhagen store also highlights a special collection named Svale (swallow) in gold-plated brass, created in collaboration with Danish model and photographer Helena Christensen and Danish designer Camilla Staerk.

ECO FASHION CAKE

VIBSKOV BARES HIS SEOUL

If you walk by Denmark’s oldest confectionary, La Glace, in central Copenhagen, beware that the couture dresses in the window are not edible, even though they’ve inspired this year’s fashion cake, a tradition that goes 15 years back.

If Wednesday’s show wasn’t enough Henrik Vibskov for you, and you happen to be in South Korea at some point before the last day of the year, you should make your way to the Daelim Museum in Seoul, where a newly opened exhibition features the best of one of Denmark’s most original and internationally renowned designers.

This season, La Glace joins forces with designer Johanne Helger Lund from Ecouture by Lund.

She clearly finds her inspiration in the theatre, and presents a feminine, edgy and seductive design universe.

To limit Vibskov only to fashion design would not be quite right, as he dabbles in music and art as well – while also being the owner of a coffee shop. His fashion shows probably describe him best, as he is known for his use of iconoclastic shock tactics to create unique presentations, drawing attention and controversy in equal measure with each new collection.

This exhibition, Henrik Vibskov – Fabricate, features more than 300 works, including a re-created set design from one his shows, and design highlights from many of his collections.

Chief confectioner Lars Juul has created some one-of-a-kind cakes inspired by the design of Ecouture, but also a fashion macaroon made from organic almond flour, pistachio, and cherries, to be sold throughout fashion week.

A SEAL ON YOUR BACK Men and bags always pose a challenge, but Kopenhagen Fur and Bel Sac tackle it well in a new collaboration by mixing the finest fur from seals and mink with the sleekest Italian leather always used for women’s handbags.

The result, premiering in early October, is a capsule collection with a distinct masculine feel, the organic sealskin and dark minks providing a more edgy look on anything from clutches and carry-alls to backpacks and bucketbags, thus reflecting simple Nordic design with love and respect for nature’s materials.

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BEER ALL OVER So you thought hops were only for internal use? Think again, when Carlsberg launches a small grooming series for hair and body, developed in the brewery’s own lab and based on the same ingredients as the beer. These include yeast and a rich dose of vitamin B, which nurtures both hair and skin.

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L I L Y

A L L E N

“O n O r O f f s t a g e, I a d O r e f a s h I O n”

No. 4 Spring Summer 2016

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

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PURE ART T.A.C. Time: 12:00 Place: The David Collection Words: Lotte Freddie

At the David Collection museum, Royal Ballet solo dancers performed amazingly and poetically to Debussy’s A Faun’s Afternoon – dressed in Tatiana Andersen Camre’s S/S 2016 collection.

It was breathtakingly beautiful, satisfying expectations that have risen with Camre’s nomination for the Dansk Design Talent – Magasin Award this year.

The designer, a former pupil at the Royal Ballet herself, proved to be a true artist. After five years’ education at Central Saint Martin’s, trainee experience in Tokyo, with Diane von Fürstenberg in New York, and John Galliano in Paris, she got a job designing ballet costumes and scenography for The Firebird at The English National Ballet. Then she set up her own business, T.A.C., with an emphasis on PRINT. Tatiana is a master of pattern and color expression. She mixes various flowers and stripes and squares all in one pattern, in the most delicious of hues. The outcome is fantastic. Variations of the pattern are mixed together in blouses, trousers, skirts, shorts or kimonos in simple shapes, working awesomely against all odds.

In a country devoted to beige, grey, and black, Tatiana’s offerings are a godsend. At the show people were mesmerised, overwhelmed by the beauty of the genius combination of outstanding antiques, outstanding dance and outstanding design – true art, and truly moving.

This fashion week’s attention on highlighting new young designers on the catwalk has been a great success as a mutual introduction for designers, buyers, and customers.

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No. 4 Spring Summer 2016

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ANNE SOFIE MADSEN Time: 21:00 Place: Meatpacking District Words: Moussa Mchangama

GETTING UNDRESSED Anne Sofie Madsen has left Copenhagen for Paris Fashion Week, but Thursday night she made a return to her native Denmark with a performance of her Resort collection. Titled ‘Consume Me’, it was a performance staged by event-organizer Esben Weile Kjær – but the performance lasted for such a short time that it was hard to conceive of any deeper meaning, so let’s focus on the clothes instead.

Madsen explored the concept of undressing in public and had created garments that displayed glimpses of skin to various degrees – slits were used really well in oversized, high-waisted and maxi-flared jeans and a set of black/white pants paired with a leather top. Trenchcoats were deconstructed as belts and bands were hanging loose, and delicate white flowers in plastic were used as jewelry, connected with what looked like electrical cords.

The collection also included designs for men, but mixed, maximized, and deconstructed as it was, it didn’t necessarily read as typically masculine or feminine – a strong point. That being said, the clothes could easily stand alone without all the fuss – they’re strong enough to do that.

MIRRORED MAN AND WOMAN MARDOU & DEAN Time: 17.00 Place: City Hall Place: Sille Henning

It was the first time that Norwegian Mardou & Dean showed their collection on a runway in Copenhagen. The label was originally founded in 2007 as a premium jeans brand for men and women, but launched a complete ready-to-wear collection for spring/summer ‘13.

Catering to both sexes, the men’s and women’s collections mirrored each other. Like the grey leatherjacket, which came in both a male and a female version, or the blue pinstripe fabric that was used on both a womenswear suit and a menswear coat.

Talking to Petra Middelton, fashion director of Elle Norway, before the show, I was told the brand is well known at home for its great jeans and leather jackets. The jeans did look great, and so did the leather jackets.

However, there were also pieces in the collection that weren’t meant for the catwalk. A shame because they almost overshadowed the many things that did work very well.

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R AV E N P R OJ E C TS

BY C I F F A UNI Q UE NEXT G ENERATION M ENSW EAR AND L I FESTYLE EX PERIENC E 5–7 AU G U ST 2 015 B EL L A CENTER COPENHAG EN C IFF.DK

No. 4 Spring Summer 2016

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JEWEL TONES NICHOLAS NYBRO Time: 14:00 Place: City Hall Words: Moussa Mchangama

”I always thought he was just kidding,” a photographer told me when we exited the Nicholas Nybro show. “But this was bloody awesome,” he continued, a broad smile on his face.

That exemplified the general feeling in City Hall at Friday, where the designer received a standing ovation for his successful show. Titled SQ1, it was the first in a two-part series inspired by The Snow Queen, Nybro’s favorite fairy tale. For the first time, Nybroe ditched sequins and shiny fabrics and instead focused on the storyline in a collection, one that overall reads as more accessible – never commercial, but easier to digest and with less distractions.

For once, Nybro’s show included a storyline that was easy to translate for everyone. It started out with striped pieces, oversize and inspired by old, Danish workwear, and pajamas. You could find jumpsuits and dresses in shades of soft pink, lavender and blue – it looked like they were sets, but often, the colors were just nuances away from each other. As the story evolved, mesh and thick Thai silk took over, in deep jewel tones, as the evening dresses started coming onto the runway.

For the finale, beige, airy dresses arrived along with the triumph: three showpieces created from straws, each one sewn on individually. People started clapping, and as they ended the show you could feel that people’s conception of Nicholas Nybro had changed.

That’s pretty good timing for the designer, as he’s nominated in this year’s round of the DANSK Design Talent – Magasin Award, with a cash prize of half a million Danish kroner. With this conceptual and brilliant collection, he surely has new fans and followers. Congratulations.

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ÅBENT MANDAG - SØNDAG 10-20 • KØB OGSÅ PÅ MAGASIN.DK

No. 4 Spring Summer 2016

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CALM AND COLLECTED DESIGNERS’ NEST Time: 15:00 Place:Øksnehallen Words: Lotte Freddie

“It is so important to focus on the new talents who are so clever at using materials in new ways.

It is good for us, for the industry, and important for exports,” declared Crown Princess Mary to The Daily at the opening of the show. Dressed in a rose-gold dress from Fonnesbech with Valentino studded sandals, the princess later confided to competition founder Jan Carlsen “I am always happy to see Designers’ Nest.”

In a week that has focused on new talent, the Designers’ Nest presentation is a must to attend: You get to follow young designers, and perhaps discover the next Galliano. The very commendable initiative aims to find and promote especially gifted design students from 10 design schools in the five Nordic countries. Thus giving students the possibility to win acclaim and a first prize of 50,000 Danish kroner. This time, the competition resulted in judges giving the top four prizes to rather avant-garde, or at least very out of the ordinary, designs.

First prize went to Sara Lundberg, the second to Louise Wänggren, both from the Swedish School of Textiles. The third prize was presented to Irina Benetyte Stange Jensen from The Royal Danish Academy of Arts with special mention to Domantas Smaizys, KEA School of Design & Technology. The fun and rather fantastic first prize design – women-like ghosts encased in enlarged soft holsters of purple or black and gold sequins with pencilled white “faces” – expressed the designer’s feeling that fashion has taken over as the new religion of our time.

Another first was the cool Crown Princess leading the winners down the catwalk as a finale.

She’s a real trooper.

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R EVOLVE R INTERNATIONAL FASHION TRADE SHOW COPENHAGEN

REPRESENTING THE LEADING SCANDINAVIAN CONTEMPORARY DESIGNER BRANDS 2OR+BY YAT 5PREVIEW 7 FOR ALL MANKIND A QUESTION OF ALLY CAPELLINO AMERICAN VINTAGE ANDERSEN & ANDERSEN ARMOR LUX ASGER JUEL LARSEN ASICS ATP ATELIER BACK BY ANN-SOFIE BACK BARACUTA BARBARA I GONGINI BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN BIBI CHEMNITZ BILLIONAIRE BOYS CLUB BLUE DE GÊNES BROOKS ENGLAND BY THE NO CAPITAL GOODS CATHRINE HAMMEL CHEAP MONDAY CRIMINAL DAMAGE CUTULICULT DENHAM THE JEANMAKER DR. MARTENS MADE IN ENGLAND EPICE FREYA DALSJØ GABBA GARMENT PROJECT GRAUMANN GRENSON GUÐRUN & GUÐRUN HANSEN HENRIK VIBSKOV HESTRA HOPE HOSS INTROPIA HOUSE OF DAGMAR HUMANOID IVAN GRUNDAHL JANE KØNIG LEE JEANS LEON LOUIS LEVIS MADE & CRAFTED LIGHTNING BOLT LINDA FARROW LYLE & SCOTT M. WIESNECK MADS NØRGAARD MAJESTIC MARIA BLACK JEWELLERY MASON SCOTCH MAX.TAN MAXJENNY ME AND MY BROTHERS MINIMARKET MINIMUM MUNDERINGSKOMPAGNIET MÅNESTRÅLE NANUSHKA NEBEL NEW BALANCE NORWEGIAN RAIN ODD MOLLY PELECHECOCO PENDELTON WOOLEN MILLS PENFIELD RANSOM REBEKKAREBEKKA REEBOK CLASSIC REVOLUTION RIKA ROBERTO COLLINA RPL MAISON S. N. S. HERNING SAINT JAMES SAMSØE & SAMSØE SANDQVIST SCOTCH & SODA SOPHIE BY SOPHIE SOULLAND STELLA NOVA STINE GOYA STYLEIN THE LAST CONSPIRACY THOM KROM TWIN SET UNIVERSAL WORKS UNSUNG COPENHAGEN URBAHIA UTZON VETRA VIBE HARSLØF WACKERHAUS WE LOVE JEANS WESC WHYRED WON HUNDRED WOOD WOOD WOOLRICH YVONNE KONÉ ÖRJAN ANDERSSON WITH MANY MORE TO COME

AUGUST 5th - 7th, 2015 COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK WWW.REVOLVER.DK

No. 4 Spring Summer 2016

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PRINTED REGIMENT JEAN//PHILLIP Time: 11:00 Place: City Hall Words: Jeppe Ugelvig

Jean//Phillip, the eponymous brand by Copenhagen’s master of distorted sportswear, opened Friday’s schedule at a dimly lit City Hall just before noon.

The show began with a showcase of a new and exciting digital print in bright ocean blue (a summer take on his A/W petrol, perhaps) which mixed surprisingly well with the faded olive green that he continually incorporated into elegantly constructed tops and sleeveless coats.

As per usual, black dominated, but it was used more cleverly to draw graphic lines through the collection, in vests and jackets that negotiated the delicate and the martial, paired with fabulously luxurious bags with dyed fur detailing.

Inspired by the structuralism of traditional army gear, vaguely identifiable militaristic references were scattered through the collection in the form of chunky appliqué zippers and bulletproof vests with a softened feel. White summer silks and merino wool knits fell delicately on the beautifully styled models, expressing a strong but melancholic summertime sadness.

After 12 seasons, Jean//Phillip moves closer to a mature and more relevant type of menswear with his militaristic abstraction, but he still dwells in dated silhouettes of “edgy” drop-crotch pants and super-deep cleaved t-shirts.

While these long-forgotten obscurities are simply no longer cool (if they ever were), Jean Phillip’s casting and choreography, along with the overall feel of the collection, show an ambitious vision – the challenge for him now is to further clarify and define his contemporary man.

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No. 4 Spring Summer 2016

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WANTED WRINKLES ELLEN PEDERSEN Time: 19:00 Place: Ryesgade Words: Moussa Mchangama

Ellen Pedersen is the latest in a long line of successful Danish designers who’ve gone abroad for their education – Astrid Andersen, Asger Juel Larsen, Stine Goya and Henrik Vibskov are the most prominent.

Pedersen, who graduated from the Royal College of Art in London in 2014, launched her menswear brand this year – this show was her first presentation of a regular collection after her final project. She’s received attention and awards in the UK, and has worked with Christopher Raeburn and Uniqlo, and interned at Astrid Andersen. Her clothes are part of the sporty menswear trend, and she’s inspired by British subcultures, using references from the 1910s – seen for example in a high, stiff and broad collar on a grey shirt with black details.

Her cuts are organic: A standout piece was the deep green nylon bomber jacket with black/ white squares, cut out from a stretch fabric and re-sewn. Nylons, cottons, and jersey were embroidered and texturized by stitching, creating a gorgeous wrinkled effect in the sporty fabrics.

Trousers had inserts of white paneling, creating graphic elements, also seen in a clear blue tracksuit, a look ready for the streets.

The 12-look collection was shown as an installation – the models stood and sat in a small room to live music and a light installation by Jakob Kvist, which bathed the room in rainbow neon lights. It was convincing.

We might just have ourselves a new favorite on the menswear scene.

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MAGNETIC

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK

No. 4 Spring Summer 2016

No paparazzi were invited, but enthusiastic fashion instagrammers made up for it.

In charge of the PR for the launch, Henrik Juhl in Matinique kept Helena Christensen’s manager company. Michelle Hatchwell Jensen in Cos top, jeans and vintage sandals from New York.

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Editor-in-chief pow-wow with Cecilie Ingdal Christensen, Elle, in Stine Goya, Rikke Christensen, Costume, in vintage, and Trine Nygaard, IN, in InWear.

Good-looking offspring: The top model’s son, Mingus, 15, and her sister Anita’s Oliver, 14.

FAMILY AFFAIR The launch of Helena Christensen’s first collection for Danish women’s brand InWear drew peers and press to a festive finale of Copenhagen Fashion Week.

Photos: Helena Lundquist, Words: Elsebeth Mouritzen InWear’s Britt Bennet, marketing manager, and Charlotte Lykke, sales manager, had raided the showroom for new collection pieces, the latter adding her own Jimmy Choo’s.

Creative director for InWear, Jette Romvig, flanked

by CEOs Jens Obel, Hans Maasbøl, and Jens Poulsen, from DK Company, who got the brilliant idea of hiring Helena Christensen.

- When they come to me with proposals for a design collaboration, people are often surprised that I actually want to work on it! They think that I am okay with just lending my name and face. But no, if I cannot be part of the creative process, I am not interested.

Helena Christensen ended a long day of design meetings with InWear on a high note with a launch party for her first collection for the Danish brand, where she spoke about her longtime passion for design.

Florist and artist Leif Sigersen, a long-time friend of Helena Christensen, showed her mother Elsa, in vintage lace, how he had made a life-size mood board with photos, clothes, and mementos.

- Throughout my career I have been surrounded by creative work on all levels, and this has inspired me to take things into own hands. I have previously designed lingerie for Triumph, jewelry for Skagen, and now clothes for InWear.

The ideas are a mix of impressions from my life in Copenhagen and New York plus books, films and art that I make mood boards with.

And then we take it from there, says Helena Christensen.

Danophile Norwegian blogger Irina Lakivec in Balmain jacket, Rag&Bone tshirt, YSL jeans and Gianvito Rossi shoes loved everything she saw in the collection.

Christensen’s photography has also literally made its way to the InWear collection. She uses her own pictures for prints on fabric, just as they are made into collages to complement the Henrik Bülow images of herself in the print campaigns.

Award-winning makeup artist Marianne Jensen in head-to-toe Stine Goya and Marc Jacobs shoes with stylist Anette Hvidt in Wackerhaus pants, Celine shirt and sandals.

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Helena Christensen being her own best advertisement for the capsule wardrobe launching in October.

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Famed actor Nikolaj Lie Kaas left it to his wife, Anne Langkilde, to be fashionable in Derek Lam shirt, Acne pants and killer heels from Holly Golightly.

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Dazzling pieces of man meat Thomas Troelsen, musician, and David Andersen, designer, were just so excited about the new DANSK issue they couldn’t even talk.

August 8

Nugatti-chompers Uffe Buchard, DANSK, and Jesper Thomsen, Unique, can never see eye to eye.

A sister of outstanding blogger Frederikke Brasch, Caroline Brasch, arrived with boy toy Frederik Bille Brahe, high on matcha tea.

THE BOLD AND THE BEAUTIFUL The new issue of DANSK focuses on gender, and reporting from the magazine launch Friday, we can conclude that several of them were represented among the attendees.

Photos: Helena Lundquist, Words: Magnus Jorem Model-from-the-age-of-nine Helena Christensen and photographer-from-birth Henrik Bülow never really go to fashion events. They work.

Designer Freya Dalsjø is secretly eleven years old, and can’t believe she fooled the entire Scandinavian fashion world for so many seasons.

Bine Grassme, jewelry manager at Shamballa, shows the new Nyima Cuff, and her personal adornment, a Tibetan mantra tattooed along her spine.

Katrine Tiemroth, communications manager, and Birte Markvad, designer, showcase Pilgrim’s organic collection with finely cut crystals, known as Czech Preciosa, with wood, gold and silver plating.

Germany is Denmark’s biggest export market, attracting fashion editor Ursula Geisselmann and fashion news director Julia Schygulla, visiting from Munich for InStyle magazine to visit Sif Jakobs.

BEDAZZLED Now a fashion week staple, The Jewellery Room with curated exhibitors has become an attraction for media coming from afar to be updated on the fine art of Scandinavian adornment.

Photos: Helena Lundquist, Words: Elsebeth Mouritzen

Audrey Rogers, American-born Barcelona-resident but first-time visitor to Copenhagen, will easily find space on her blog befrassy.com for the cutting-edge designs of Vibe Harsløf.

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Ophelia Wu, freelance writer for Elle Hong Kong and a minimalist herself, sees potential for Maria Zabel in a market with growing interest for simple, delicate jewelry ideal for dressing up and down.

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STREET STYLE Photographer Victor Jones captures the strongest looks from off the runways.

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1 — CIARA BROADBERY 2 — CELINE AAGAARD 3 — MARIA JERNOV

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IT’S A WRAP Luka Roné’s last picture show of this fashion week.

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NICHOLAS NYBRO BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN BRUUNS BAZAAR BRUUNS BAZAAR NICHOLAS NYBRO FREYA DALSJØ

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