Costa Brava 2
& Catalunya Magazine
Vias Verdes Ń˜Vive la VĂa!
Tarragona
2000 years of history
Favourites
Catalan fashion
Top 10 Restaurants
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www.palamos.cat
W EDITORIAL
What a first edition of a magazine can all bring about. Lots of people have read the magazine, so the aim we set to achieve, as far as number of readers in the first year, now already can be adjusted upwards. Many people didn’t only read the magazine, but reacted as well. For me as a maker, this is very important. As long as you don’t hear from your readers how they like your work, you’ll always be guessing whether you're doing well. Fortunately, all comments were positive, so we’ll be continuing on the same foot for a while. During the past 3 months I’ve not only been busy making this spring issue, but also, the website ( www.costabravamagazine.com ), has extended quite a bit. Now there is a news page with up to date news, concerning Catalonia. There are movies about subjects that are attended in the magazine and new polls are held regularly to assess what you, the reader, would like to read about. On different platforms, I placed a call for people to share their experiences on holidays, emigration etc. with our readers. Several people have responded and therefore from now on you’ll regularly encounter articles of various authors in the magazine. For example, Sue, who lives in Murcia, has written an article about her experiences in Tarragona, and Bram from Belgium tells us about the Catalan character. Also, I’ve found a very respected lawyer from Barcelona willing to make us all a bit wiser in the legal field. He’ll write a legal column in every issue from now on. I would like to repeat my call: all people who would like to share relevant information / experiences on tourism and emigration, and let’s not forget pictures, with our readers, please contact us and maybe you’ll read back your own story in the next issue! This number is the "spring" edition, but actually spring starts much earlier in the year here. At night we hear the housecrickets chirp again and near the end of January I saw the first almond and mimosa trees in bloom again. What a fantastic sight, the nascent nature. Summer, here we come! Marjolein Hooijmeijer
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Villa Elena Unique: villa on public garden like plot ( 7.000m² ) with sea view. • Ground floor: - Living-/ dining room - Kitchen - 2 double bedrooms - Bathroom • First floor: - single bedroom - Bathroom - 1 suite with bathroom • Other information: • Garage + storage • Swimming pool, shower and toilet • Covered terrace with BBQ in the garden • It’s no longer possible to build in this area (nature preserve) • Surroundings: - Beach 10 min - Golf (2x) 5 min - Horse-riding centre 10 min - Shops 5 min - Forrests 0 min - Airport 20 min - Skiing 90 min - Girona 20 min - Barcelona 55 min Costa Brava Immo can provide a financing on this property.
€ 690.000,-
www.costa-brava-immo.eu
Costa Brava Immo Paseo del Mar 3,1 17230 Palamós 0034-972.319.527 0034-663.324.36 info@costa-brava-immo.eu www.costa-brava-immo.eu
content spring ‘10 08 Tarragona
2000 years of history
14 Cuisine
Recepy for pa tomàquet
15 Vías Verdes ¡Vive la Vía!
21 Favourites
Catalan fashion
27 My favourite spot
Favourite spots in Catalonia
29 Top 10
Restaurants in Catalonia
40 Sofisticasa
Make a fresh start this spring!
42 Catalan character
Between Seny and Rauxa
45 Legal advice
Column of LL.M. J.W. de Haan
49 Events Calendar
A selection from the regional agenda
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Tarragona 2000 years of history
This ancient Roman port city that lies on a rock-face 6 metres above the Mediterranean, is one of the grandest but most neglected sightseeing centres in Spain.
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Tarragona is one of the four capitals of Catalonia once was home to Julius Caesar. Tarragona today consists of an old quarter filled with interesting buildings. The upper walled town is mainly medieval. The town below is newer. The city has 140,323 inhabitants (2009). The Roman amphitheatre, next to the sea, was built in the second century. An other ancient monument, at 4 km north of the city, has also been preserved rather well. A magnificent aqueduct, which spans a valley, is 217 m in length. The loftiest arches, of which there are two tiers, are 26 m high. It is known locally as "Devil's Bridge" (El Pont del Diable in Catalan, or El Puente del Diablo in Spanish).
FRANCIA ANDORRE
GIRONA
ARAGÓN
LLEIDA
Girona BARCELONA
Lleida
Barcelona TARRAGONA Tarragona
COMMUNIDAD VALENCIANA
In the new town, walk along the main road, the Ramble Nova, a fashionable wide boulevard. Running parallel with Ramble Nova to the east is the Ramble Vella, which marks the beginning of the Old Town. The city has a bullring, good hotels, and a number of good beaches, some awarded a prestigious Blue Flag designation. Tarragona tourist attractions include the Museum of Archaeology and the Roman ruins of Tarraco, which has been designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. http://whc.unesco.org/en/news/184
After seeing the attractions listed here, cap off your day with a stroll along the Balcó del Mediterráni (Balcony of the Mediterranean), where the panorama is especially beautiful at sunset.
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Sue en John Walkers’ experiences in Tarragona John and I decided to visit Tarragona to celebrate my 60th birthday: as pensioners we are always looking for somewhere a bit different that is not too expensive. Tarragona is surprisingly free of foreign tourists, which for John and me was one of its many charms. Our ideal holiday is not about lying on beaches soaking up the sun, which we both regard as a total waste of time; it’s more about visiting places, soaking up the culture and enjoying the local food accompanied by a few glasses of good wine. This being the case, Tarragona proved to be the ideal destination for us. We had looked at the Tarragona Tourist website beforehand, so that we could plan what to do and see to make the most of our stay there: www.tarragonaturisme.cat Information is available in English and other languages as well as Spanish and the website is very comprehensive. We decided to buy a one-day Tarragona Card, which gave us free entry to the city’s monuments, free bus tickets, plus discounts in many restaurants, shops etc. Rather than try and fit everything into one day, we bought the card after lunch on our first day. As it lasted 24 hours, we could then spread our “site” seeing over two days. We also made sure that we used the card at those monuments that cost the most, in case we couldn’t cram them all in. For other penny-pinching pensioners, check whether you will in fact make a saving buying the card, as over 65s get half-price or free entry to many of the places listed. The card costs ¤ 14,- for ¤ 24,- hours, ¤ 19,- for 48 hours and ¤ 24,- for 72 hours. You should also be aware that most museums are closed on Mondays, so that isn’t a good day for visiting them!
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We spent our first day walking along Tarragona’s Roman route. As the Roman archaeological complex of Tarraco has been declared a World Heritage Site, we didn’t want to miss any of it. The highlight for me was the well-preserved Amphitheatre with views of the Mediterranean, although the Roman Circus, where you could almost hear the thunder of the horse-drawn chariots and the roar of the crowds, was a close second. John enjoyed wandering around the Local Forum and also walking along the citywalls, which had great views over the surrounding countryside as well as the city. We had a lot of fun trying to find the Francoli River Paleochristian Complex until we realised that it was actually within the shopping centre, down in the parking area! There is more to Tarragona than its Roman remains, as we discovered on our second day when we walked along the Mediaeval route. We explored the streets around the Cathedral, which was of course the star attraction, however there were many other monuments worth seeing, amongst them the Cloisters, the Chapels of St Paul and St Tecla. The Ancient Hospital of St. Tecla, and the King’s Castle. St Tecla is the patron saint of Tarragona and we have been told that the fiesta of Santa Tecla, which is held in September, is well worth seeing. We plan to visit Tarragona in September next time as we always enjoy taking part in Spanish fiestas. We also appreciated the splendour of Casa Canals and Casa Castellarnau, which shouldn’t be missed if you like looking around magnificent old houses. Other cultural highlights for us were the Museum of Modern Art, the National Archeological Museum and the Museum of the Port of Tarragona. If the weather is good and you don’t want to be indoors, many of the monuments I have mentioned are outside. Enjoy a leisurely stroll along the Rambla Nova and the Balcón del Mediterráneo, then pop into the Amphitheatre, before heading along Rambla Vella to see the Roman Circus and then make your way to the maze of streets around the Cathedral . All this walking increased our appetite, so luckily eating out in Tarragona proved to be a pleasurable experience. We discovered that many good restaurants do a cheap “menu del día” at lunch time, so we would make that our main meal, having either one course or just tapas for our evening meal. Tarragona is a charming city, with plenty to see and do. We crammed as much as we could into the four days that we stayed there, however a longer stay would have allowed us a bit more time just to relax. In case I haven’t already tempted you to visit Tarragona, I should mention that there are plenty of shops and lovely sandy beaches too, making it the ideal holiday location for everyone - even those of you who aren’t interested in history and culture.
John and Sue Walker have lived in the Murcia region since 2008 and visit other parts of their adopted country on a regular basis. "Retiring The Olé Way" ISBN 1-905430-64-7 by Sue Walker is available to buy from Amazon and all good bookshops now.
Imagínate un lugar donde dejarte cautivar por miles de años de historia. Un lugar donde invitar a los más pequeños a viajar en el tiempo y revivir leyendas, gestas y misterios. Imagínate una tierra de contrastes donde conviven las grandes civilizaciones del pasado. Imagínate la Costa Daurada.
Passeig Torroja, s/n 43007 Tarragona tel 977 23 03 12 fax 977 23 80 33 costadaurada@turisme.altanet.org
Visiting Tips from Sue and John
Restaurants - Down at the Port, try the menu del día at La Botiga on Calle Trafalgar for only € 10,50 - At Restaurante Passadis on Calle Estanislau Figueres, you’ll be given 10% discount using the Tarragona Card.
Hotels - SB Express *** on Plaça de les Corts Catalanes, The hotel is in a quiet area and it is a bit of a walk into the centre of Tarragona, but good value for money. www.hotelexpresstarragona.com - The Husa Imperial Tarraco **** on Passeig de Las Palmeres is in an ideal location for sight-seeing, although obviously you pay the price for that, especially with its four-star facilities. www.hotelhusaimperialtarraco.com - For those on a strict budget the 2-star Catalunya Express ** is worth considering, and as a bonus it is close to the regional Railway Station. www.hcatalunyaexpress.com
More tips - Tarragona is renowned for its Roman archaeological complex, and even if you don’t enjoy history you can’t fail to be impressed by the Amphitheatre and Roman Circus. - Don’t forget to visit the Port, especially at lunch time when you can enjoy the fresh fish. - After that delicious lunch, why not walk off all those calories and enjoy the views with a promenade along the city walls? - The city is located few miles away from Reus Airport, which has many low-cost destinations and charter-flights (over a million passengers per year). www.aena.es - In the even-numbered years every first sunday of october, the famous human castle cometition is being held. The 18 best “colles” (human castle troups) gather in the local bullring for the longest, most contested and most thrilling performances imaginable. - Tarragona is located near the holiday resort of Salou and the theme park Port Aventura, one of the largest in Europe. www.portaventura.es /csee/Satellite?pagename=subHome&Language=ES_ES&c=Page&SiteName=REU&cid=1048858949294
Recepy
Probably the simplest of all recipes. Nevertheless one of the most appreciated and served dishes all over Catalonia. The are many ways to prepare this dish: with toasted or fresh bread, with or without garlic, but the main ingredients are always bread and ripe tomatoes. You can serve pa amb tomàquet as a starter course but it may also be served as tapas. Sometimes, it is topped with jamon iberico or anchovies. Non-Catalan Spanish refer to it as Pan Tumaca - a crude phonetical spelling of the Catalan name, or Pan Tomate. Whether serving this dish as an appetizer or starter course, the host provides the toast and ingredients and the guests traditionally prepare their own meal. Ingredients (for four portions):
Pa amb Tomàquet
Four slices thick good crusty bread. (The original base used to be made with toasted slices of pa de pagès - Catalan peasants' bread) 1 - Tomato, halved 1 - Clove garlic, halved Extra Virgin Olive Oil Good Quality Sea Salt to taste. Directions: Grill or toast bread slices and deliver to the table hot. Allow your guests to continue from here, under your 'expert' guidance! Rub grilled bread with garlic halves Thoroughly rub the tomato halves into the toast to soak the surface. Drizzle with good olive oil to taste, then sprinkle with some sea salt. Serve hot… Delicious! Bon Profit!
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Vías Verdes ¡Vive la Vía!
Vías Verdes (literally translated "green roads") are old disused railway lines that have been restored and adapted for use by pedestrians and cyclists. Discover the culture and landscape of Catalonia in a different, enjoyable and environmentally friendly way. Vias Verdes are an ideal destination for all ages, you can enjoy the natural environment while you are doing sports and/ or relax.
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Forgotten railway lines transform into modern day tourist attraction When the trains stopped running, the tracks slowly but surely fell into despair and were forgotten about. Today those lines have been adapted, and wagons and locomotives are replaced by cyclists and pedestrians. There are over 1700 kilometres of Vías Verdes in Spain, of which currently 138 kilometres in Catalonia. As you can see, Catalonia is somewhat underrepresented, but Catalonia is catching up. At various locations in Catalonia Vías Verdes are being constructed. The nice thing about these Vías Verdes is that they are fairly even and therefore are ideal for everyone to use: adults, children, elderly and even disabled. Taking a trip on one of these routes on which all motor traffic is banned, is absolutely worthwhile. Even for mopeds it is forbidden territory. This doesn’t only make the Vías Verdes "green", but also very safe. The signs along the route keep you informed about interesting sites and landscapes. "Armed" with comfortable shoes, sports clothing, a backpack with water and food, a flashlight and if desired a bike, you’re travelling well-prepared. Along the routes you’ll find several restaurants and guesthouses.
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Via Verde del Carillet I, 54.0 Km (Girona province) Until the sixties the 54 kilometer long narrow gauge (called in Catalan: "Carrilet") between Girona and Olot, was the main link with the hinterland of the province of Girona. The "Ruta Carrilet" followed the banks of the rivers Ter, the Bruguent and the Fluvià through the volcanic landscape that characterizes the “Garrotxa”. In the not too distant future this Via Verde will be connected to the Cami de Ferro (12 km between Ripoll and Sant Joan de les Abadesses). Together with the existing Vía Verde between Girona and the coastal Sant Feliu de Guíxols, this will create a unique route of almost 135 kilometres, which will run all the way from the Pyrenees to the Mediterranean coast.
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The old railway station in Bell Lloc near Santa Cristina d’Aro
Vía Verde del Carrilet II, 39.0 Km (Girona province) For years, the Ruta Carrilet between Girona and Sant Feliu de Guixols was mainly used by residents of Girona to go to the Mediterranean beaches. This railway-line is also shut down, and since the year 2000 it offers tourists the possibility to cycle or walk along this route through the beautiful and varied landscape of the “Baix Emporda". This Vía Verde links up with the route from Girona to Olot.
Vía Verde del Ferró i del Carbó , 12.0 Km (Girona province) The banks of the river Ter, which runs from the mountainous regions of the Pyrenees to the shores of the Costa Brava, have acted as a guide to some of the railways. This is also the case with the narrow gauge railway between Ripoll and the mines in Ogassa, known today as the Vía Verde del Ferró i del Carbó (iron and coal).
VĂa Verde de la Terra Alta, 23.0 Km (Tarragona province) Terra Alta is a rural area of Catalonia, where mostly almond and pine trees grow. Until 1973 some trains rode through this area. Today we can cycle or walk through this spectacular scenery along the "Sierra de Pandols" ridge on this route from the past. A journey through tunnels and over viaducts takes us from Aragon to the Ebro. Here is where the Terra Alta Greenway ends, but it need not be the end of your journey since it is possible to continue along the Baix Ebre Greenway for a further 26 km You can find more information about the Vias Verdes in Catalonia and the rest of Spain on the very comprehensive and well-organized site: www.viasverdes.com (Spanish and English)
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Ruta del Carrilet Girona – Sant Feliu de Guíxols. Photo: Òscar Vall. Costa Brava Tourism Board Archive of Images
www.viasverdes.com
info@talenpalet.nl www.talenpalet.com
Favourites Fashion
Spring
Mango In 1984 the first Mango store opened in Barcelona. Less than a year later, five more stores were added. In 1992 Mango opened the 100th store in Spain and went over across the border, to the neighbouring Portugal. Currently there are about 1220 MANGO / MNG stores spread over 91 countries. The Philosophy of Mango reads: ArmonĂa (harmony), Humildad (modesty) and Afecto (affection). www.mango.com
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Favourites Fashion
Spring
Desigual In 1982 Thomas Meyer begins starts designing hit own t-shirts from his 2nd hand store on the Spanish island of Ibiza. From here, he gradually developed his own style that eventually in '84 was renamed Desigual. Spanish film director Isabel Coixet, an old friend of Meyer, came up with the slogan "desigual is not the same" and the rest is history. Meyer today still leads the design team, consisting of 3 persons. The headquarters, where about 100 people work now, is located in Barcelona. Desigual currently sells its clothing in 4.500 (February 2010) stores. There are also 157 Desigual exclusive stores and the brand has 450 “corners� in the larger department stores.
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www.desigual.com
Favourites Fashion
Spring
Custo Barcelona The Dalmau brothers, Custo and David, created Custo Barcelona in the early 80’s after a long trip during which they travelled all around the world. Inspired by the typically Californian colorful and innovative fashion trends they came across, and in particular the style of the tops and T-shirts which didn’t exist in Spain in those days, they launched the brand “Custo Line”. Later on, all kinds of new garments were introduced to complement Custo Barcelona’s trademark printed tops, like skirts, trousers and coats, thus giving rise to complete collections. Nowadays it could be said that Custo Barcelona is a style in itself; one that, to a certain extent, embodies a specific lifestyle. www.custo-barcelona.com
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Favourites Fashion
Spring
Smash Wear Catalan fashion with a Dutch twist Smash was founded in Amsterdam in the exciting nineties as a club-wear brand. Smash produced funky party clothing with a futuristic twist designed for the dance scene.The new millennium has brought a change in style with the brand moving to a street-wear look, while maintaining its individual 'cutting edge' and creative fashion style. Since 2004 Smash has found a home in Barcelona. This city influenced the look of Smash immensely and initiated an important change, into the brand it is now. Today, Smash reflects the innovative, artistic and fashionable atmosphere of the streets of Barcelona. Smash is making its way to the coolest street-wear shops in Europe and around the world! In this spring collection we have paid particular attention to fresh and lively colors, as it is always done here at Smash. The prints are varied, and inspired by nature and people. We have also added new categories to our line; night-wear, women’s lingerie and more models for men. We continue with original designs without losing our distinctive style.
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www.smash-wear.com
Favourites Fashion
Spring
Lupo Barcelona Lupo was founded in 1989 in Barcelona. In the year 2000 Lupo had selling points in Europe, Azia and Latin America. In 2001 they won the prestigious MIPEL award for best design on the Abanico collection. Today Lupo presents its new creations under the suggesting title “Days in bloom”; a clear allusion to springtime, a period during which everything blooms and revives. Nature has been the main source of inspiration for these subtle chromatic palette and fresh textures. Besides, Origami, with its millenary pleats has played an essential role in the forms of the new Lupo designs. Pure, powdered hues that provide a different light. Lupo nappa leather, technological material and exotic leather that introduce a different nuance. “Days in bloom” is the epitome of the savoir-faire of this firm in a virtuoso-like attempt to attain formal architecture. These are bags with personality, yet, there is nothing obvious about them. Their inner and their outer part are in tune, and a flowing dialogue characterises the different lines of the collections, from the most sophisticated pieces to the ones conceived for everyday life. A collection of complements intended to become good companions for life. www.lupo.es
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www.begur.org
In every issue we will ask someone for their favourite spot in Catalonia. In this issue the favourite spot of Ellen de Rook
My Favourite Spot ... Forrest near Pals
Photo: Ellen de Rook
“If you’d asked me a year ago what my favourite spot in Catalonia was, I probably would have named one of the beautiful bays or beaches. But since a four-footer named "Guapo" is part of our family, I discovered the woods. In particular, the forest that almost borders our garden, located between Els Masos Pals and Platja de Pals. It starts in the morning when I wake up and enjoy the view over the tree tops, but mostly I can really wander around for hours and I always find new paths and routes. What a wonderful luxury to just walk from your garden right into nature! ” Ellen de Rook lives in Pals since 2007 together with her husband and son and their dog "Guapo". www.casafuera.co.uk Ellen passes the stick to Karin Verbeek.
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Finca Benifayo Old watermill only 25 minutes from the great city of Valencia and 15 minutes from the beach. Suitable for B & B, studio or occupation. In the large building a small house is realized. The rest of the property is industrial with beautiful beamed ceilings and large rooms. Ideal for use as bed & breakfast, workshop or just as a large family house. The industrial building is very suitable for modern architecture. The arrangement and interpretation of the spaces in this building is yet to be determined. With a constructed area of of 1.860m ² and an almost 4.000m ² plot, the possibilities are endless. The village of Benefayo has 12,300 inhabitants and is located in the fruit region of Spain. The beautiful setting is ideal for cycling and cultural discoveries. Just 15 minutes from the coast and beach, and 5 minutes from the natural park "Parc Natural de la Abufera". Valencia airport is 25 minutes away by car. Price € 275.000, Costa Brava Immo can provide a financing on this property.
www.costa-brava-immo.eu
Costa Brava Immo Paseo del Mar 3,1 17230 Palamós 0034-972.319.527 0034-663.324.36 info@costa-brava-immo.eu
Top 10
Restaurants
Top 10 Restaurants in Catalonië
Foto: M. Ruiz de Erenchun
When a region is in the top 100 best restaurants of the world, with 2 restaurants, and even leads that list for 5 years in a row (No. 1 El Bulli in Rosas, No. 5 El Celler de Can Roca in Girona), they can be pretty proud of that. There are no less than 4 restaurants with 3 Michelin stars in Catalonia. Connoisseurs have known for years that you can eat deliciously in Catalonia. Tourists that don’t look beyond the restaurants along the coast or in the cities with a photo collage as a menu, are depriving themselves of so much more there is to discover. Therefore, placing a “Top 10: Restaurants” is an obvious choice. It will probably be of no surprise to anyone that our top positions are held by the top of the world. Who are we to go argue? In the lower echelons however, we tried to be a little less obvious. The restaurants listed in the lower regions don’t necessarily have a Michelin star, but despite that stand out in quality, location or otherwise. Unfortunately we can’t do a top 50 or even a top 100, because honestly, a top 10 is a shortcoming to the many unlisted restaurants. Therefore I’d like to make a request: Send your personal favorite to info@costabravamagazine.com or fill in the poll on our website. In a later issue we’ll put a list of your recommended restaurants.
* 1 El Bulli***, Cala Montjoi, Roses” What in 1961 began as a miniature golf course, quickly grew into one of the most respected restaurants in Spain. The founders came up with the name El Bulli. The Schilling family was in the possession of a number of French bulldogs, a breed commonly known as the "Bulli". In 1964, El Bulli was officially a restaurant. Ferran Adrià and Juli Soler, both work at El Bulli since the early eighties. Since 1990 they jointly own the restaurant.
In 1987, the restaurant decided to close during the winter. Not like now, to let the creativity roar again, but because there simply weren’t enough guests during the winter months. Something that nowadays is really unthinkable. The past years, El Bulli received up to 2 million! applications per year, even though they only have 8000 seats to give away. Apart from the undisputed quality of the food, this contributes greatly to the mystical atmosphere that surrounds El Bulli. Only a few have the privilege to be admitted to the club of people who enjoyed the best of the best in the culinary field all over the world. Just being wealthy doesn’t give you a guarantee to a table at El Bulli. You also need a good deal of perseverance and luck to sit down to dinner in the world's most famous restaurant. The fact that Adrià has indicated that El Bulli will close it’s doors for two years in 2012, will probably increase the number of applications even more. There is so much more to tell about this almost mythical restaurant, that we’d like to return to the subject in a subsequent issue.
www.elbulli.es
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Foto: Francesc Guillamet
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* 2 El Celler de Can Roca***, Girona Are you one of the many who failed again this year in making a reservation at El Bulli? Not to worry, luckily there are enough alternatives. For example El Celler de Can Roca. In 2009 this restaurant has captured their 3rd Michelin star, and was also promoted to the number 5 on the list of best restaurants in the world! In 1986 the 3 brothers Roca started El Celler de Can Roca in addition to the existing family restaurant, where traditional dishes are prepared. The eldest brother Joan, is the head chef, the middle, Josep, is the sommelier and the youngest, Jordi, is responsible for the desserts. Some of the dishes and desserts they created, are based on famous perfumes such as Etenity by Calvin Klein, Hypnotic Poison by Dior, Bvlgari, Tresor by Lancome etc. In 2007 the brothers moved the restaurant to its current location. A modern building, specially designed for the new restaurant, located about 100 meter from the former restaurant. In this building, even more than at the old location, the emphasis is on the overall experience. Eating here is a feast, and the good thing is, if you make a reservation now, you can sit down to dinner this year!
www.cellercanroca.com
Foto: Ester Sauleda
* 3 Sant Pau – Carme Ruscalleda***, Sant Pol de Mar The two driving forces behind this great restaurant are Carme Ruscalleda and Toni Balam, who both grew up in Sant Pol de Mar. In 1988 they started this restaurant, where from the beginning the focus was on quality and originality. The restaurant is located in a "torre" built in 1881, in the old part of Sant Pol de Mar. On the first floor of the "torre" is the restaurant where the history of the building determines the atmosphere. From the dining room in the front you’ll have a fantastic view. The garden of the restaurant is like a small theatre with breathtaking views over the sea front. A wonderful place to relax after a superb meal. Carme Ruscalleda has developed considerably since the early days. Over the years the dishes have become technically more complex, but from the beginning the quality of the ingredients were the basis of every dish. Almost all products have their origin in the Maresme region. Restaurant Sant Pau only has 35 seats so that each customer and every dish gets optimal attention.
www.ruscalleda.com
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* 4 Can Fabes***, Sant Celoni For over 30 years the team of Can Fabes has offered the world their passion for cooking with the best products the Montseny region and the Mediterranean Sea have to offer. They dig deep into their roots to broaden their horizon. Their motto is that you need to be local, in order to become universal. Can Fabes and the Santamaria family have been rooted in Sant Celoni for more than 2 centuries. Love for their land enters into the kitchen, and local products play a key role. The dedication to their background, does not stand in the way of modern influences in the kitchen. This is emphasized by the modern atmosphere in the restaurant. Classicism and traditions are recreated to bring the best of both worlds together and to take it to a higher level. At Can Fabes they are convinced that pleasure should not be rushed. An evening in this restaurant does not only consist of an exceptionally good meal, but it is an experience. Rushing things is out of the order. Is it a bit late to drive home after an unhurried conversation at the restaurant, a drink or cigar at the Dins Bar? At Can Fabes you can not only eat deliciously, you can also sleep over. There are a number of exclusive, modern designed rooms equipped with equally luxurious bathrooms where you can relax after a wonderful evening.
www.canfabes.com
Foto: Marco Pastori
* 5 ABaC**, Barcelona Chef Xavier Pellicer is the head chef of the ABaC kitchen. When he was 13, he chose cooking as his trade. Having grown up with excellent food (his father is Catalan; his mother is French), he wanted to prepare great food for others. He began learning, as he worked under knowledgeable chefs at fine restaurants. Having worked at many restaurants, Xavier returned to Barcelona in 1993 as head chef of Can Fabes *** (see number 4) and since 1999 he is the chef at ABaC, which at that time was already in the possession of one Michelin star. Xavier uses only fresh natural products. Over the seasons, the tasting menu is always being reinvented. The ingredients themselves give no hint as to how they’ll be transformed by the careful hands and the refined mind of this chef. The restaurant, with a capacity for 60 people is decorated in neutral tones and has oval tables that allow the guests to watch the garden while eating. In 2008 ABaC moved to the prestigious Avinguda Tibidabo and in that same year the restaurant was rewarded with a second Michelin star.
www.abacbarcelona.com
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*6 Bo.tic*, Corça
www.bo-tic.com
December 2007, the young owners Albert Sastregener i Surroca and Cristina Torrent i Cos, opened the doors of restaurant Bo.Tic. One year after opening it was recommended in the Michelin guide and in the meantime they’ve seized their so desired star. The cuisine is inspired by the traditional Emporda cuisine. Extreme care in selecting the ingredients, combined with the experience, creativity and excellent wine cellar, make a meal at Bo.Tic a true experience.
*7 El Pati Peratallada www.hotelelpati.net
A romantic dinner for 2? There is no place more suitable than El Pati in Peratallada. On your way to the restaurant, the well-preserved and car free medieval village, contributes to the experience. The beautiful setting, the great food and the friendly welcome by owners Jose and Yolanda do the rest. The authentic dishes are prepared with ingredients of the highest quality. There is a fabulous courtyard which is surrounded by natural stone where walnut trees grow that provide the necessary shade. Would you like to stay overnight? That is possible, El Pati has 5 (equally romantic) rooms.
*8 Celler del Barri Vell, Palamós Carrer de Pagès i Ortiz 9 17230 Palamós
Don’t be deceived by the discreet and somewhat shabby appearance of this restaurant that only has a few tables. You could compare it to an oyster. Unsightly from outside, but the inside is delicious! The chef/ owner is also a fisherman. With his small boat he goes out every day or night to catch fresh fish. What he has caught, he’ll serve the same day. He prepares the fish with a minimum of fuss, but with lots of love. If, for some reason he doesn’t catch the proper fish, the restaurant will keep its doors closed that day. You can’t get fresher and better prepared fish anywhere!
*9
Galena Mas Comangau, Begur www.mascomangau.com /reseng.htm
Galena Mas Comangau is located in the charismatic village of Begur, surrounded by the most idyllic beaches on the Costa Brava and close to the nearby medieval villages Peratallada and Pals. The cuisine is based on the traditional and Mediterranean cuisine. The dishes are prepared with seasonal products that the sea and the land of the Baix Empordà provide. The creativity of the head chef is reflected in the presentation of the dishes The restaurant is located in the ground floor of a Masia which dates from the beginning of the last century. Recently the Masia has been refurbished completely in a simple and harmonious style that contributes to a relaxing and comfortable atmosphere. The terrace has beautiful views of the valley. After a wonderful evening you can stay overnight at Mas Comangau.
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*10
Vila Mas, s’Agaro
Pg. Sant Pol, 95 17220 Sant Feliu de Guixols
This restaurant looks out over the sea front in the beautiful bay of Sant Pol in s'Agaro. Obviously the menu is Mediterranean oriented. Fresh seasonal products are at the basis of all dishes. From the cosy terrace you have a marvellous view over the bay. The service is correct but not formal. On a tighter budget, and still want to enjoy the atmosphere and delicious food? Besides the normal a la carte menu, Villa Mas also offers a "menu del dia" with a more attractive pricing.
Send your personal favorite to info@costabravamagazine.com or fill in the poll on our website. In a later issue we’ll put a list of your recommended restaurants.
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Costa-Brava-Immo
Casa Peter, Tamariu Beautiful new built villa. Kitchen, Living room, 3 bedrooms, Mezzanine floor, Garage, Central Heating. Amazing view over the valley and the forrests, Luxurious finishing, plot: 1.050m2
Casa Cabanyes, Calonge Hall, Living room, Kitchen, Balf bath, 2 bedrooms, Bathroom, Studio, possibility to create separate guest area, Garage, Swimming pool, Central heating, possibilty to create 2 more bedrooms, plot 786m2
€ 395.000,-
€ 325.000,-
Casa Cao, Calonge Living room, Kitchen, 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms Shed, Airconditioning, 8 minutes from the beach. Quiet surroundings on dead end street in pleasant urbanisation.
Casa Pals Platja Living room with terrace, Modern kitchen, 5 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, Office with balcony and sea view, garage for 2 cars, wine cellar, swimming pool 4x8, garden. Close to supermarkets, forrests and beach, 5 minutes to Golfclub “Golf Platja de Pals”. € 650.000,-
€ 350.000,-
Costa-Brava-Immo Paseo del Mar 3 Local 1 - 17230 Palamós, Girona, España, Tel: 0034-972.319.527, Fax: 0034-972.602.468 info@costa-brava-immo.eu - www.costa-brava-immo.eu
SOFISTICASA
interior decorating
Photo: JAGwired
www.sofisticasa.nl
Enjoy the spring with Sofisticasa! The Costa Brava has changed a lot over the past years. From the moment that tourism on the Costa Brava increased in the 1970’s, much has changed. In all those years one thing has remained virtually unchanged: the climate. Despite the fact that the thunderstorms became a bit more violent and thereby we’ve read more about floodings in Spain in the news, we Costa Brava lovers know, that with an average of 300 sunny days a year the Catalan coast is a good pace to stay! When the sun gets a little higher up in the sky and the days slowly start to get longer, we get the jitters. We’ve had it with winter and springtime inspires us to a fresh start. Come springtime, many people not only change their wardrobe, but also their interior. The fastest way to give your house a different appearance, is to paint one or more walls in a different colour. With a different colour, we also need different accessories such as cushions, curtains, candles or a rug. Everything that reminds us of winter must make way for a fresh spring look! A wonderful product to implement a dramatic change in your interior or exterior is the Safretti design fireplace. Is it a bit to cool to sit outside on a spring evening? With this design fireplace, which can be used both inside and outside, you can enjoy the open air all evening. The see-through model can be placed in the garden and is a real eye catcher at the poolside and will also look great in the summer. The wall models are a jewel for the patio or the living/ dining room. A "wow" moment when you have guests. One of the great advantages of a Safretti design fireplace is that no major interventions, such as the construction of a waste heat flue are necessary. This will save you a lot of extra costs.
SOFISTICASA
interior decorating
Increase the marketability of your home on sale We’ve known it for years, selling your home is much easier with the correct design and decor. Also proven by the many "makeover" programs on TV. Sofisticasa can you do a full “pre-sale styling”. With a few simple adjustments, your house will sell a lot quicker. Redesigning your house is not only advisable to increase your own living pleasure, but especially if you want to sell your house. Because the spring traditionally is the time when most homes are being sold / purchased, this is the time to get started! Sofisticasa can effectively help out and would like to be your contact point for all your interior design questions, so you can enjoy a sunny spring. Curious what Sofisticasa you can do for you, or what the Safretti fireplace looks like? Please take a look at www.sofisticasa.nl or call: 0031-546851333 or 0034-670777872 We have a special offer for Costa Brava Magazine readers. If you buy a Safretti design fireplace, you get a dozen bottles of bio alcohol to the valuation of 40 euros for free! Warm greetings from Marion Bos Lubach (interior stylist)
SOFISTICASA
interior decorating
The Catalan character: between Seny & Rauxa Catalans are not Spaniards. They say so themselves. Any right-minded Catalan tells you exactly how 'different' they are. And then concepts like Seny 'and' Rauxa often are mentioned. A true Catalan has -so they say- a lot of Seny . And sometimes a little bit of Rauxa ...
Common sense ... The word "Seny" is pronounced as [se単]. Seny means horse sense. It comes from the rural tradition where hard work and correct decisions are common. Honesty, fair play, observation and practical thinking are important. Seny is the ratio, the left cerebral hemisphere. Because of the Seny, the Catalan folk and classical music is more cerebral, thoughtful and restrained compared to the Andalusian emotional exuberance. Just compare the Sardana to the Flamenco ... The Seny, the thoughtfulness, is certainly one of the reasons why the Catalans in their strive for independence, choose to be diplomatic sooner than the hot-blooded Basques. In other Spanish regions they often speak of Catalans as "cold and hard". Where an Andalusian would call you "Hermano" (Brother) after two beers, and invites you to their home, often times you need more time to make friends with a Catalan. But that friendship is much more permanent.
Photo: Uayebt
Photo: Hugo Pardo Kuklinski
... and organized madness! Besides Seny there is also "Rauxa, the counterweight. Rauxa is the unrestrained revelry. Losing yourself is fun and games. The Catalan festivals and celebrations are a form of organized madness. Who else gets it into his head to build human towers, "just" for fun? Or how about the "Correfoc", where dancers dressed as devils go on a razzle in a sea of fireworks? Or the complete madness when Barça wins once again? The Rauxa, (pronounced approximately [rawsje]) is about letting go, 100%. Playing, drinking, eating, ... without boundaries. The Rauxa also is the madness in the paintings of Dalí, the childish aspect in the works of Miró, the inspiration of Picasso and of the surreal twist in Gaudí's work.
Yin en Yang Just the balance between Seny and Rauxa is typically Catalan. First work, then play. Dead serious when it’s necessary, but always laced with a cynical humor. Northern efficiency versus Southern passion. Yin and Yang. The peasant drinks only then when the grain is harvested. And then he drinks a lot! And good wine! (The wines of lesser quality he’ll sell...) It is quite obvious why the Catalan symbol is the "Burro", the donkey. Hard working, never ceases or complain. But loyal, headstrong and with a character to be treated with respect. Seny and Rauxa ... Each description of a "national character" lapses into stereotypes. Of course there are as many characters as there are Catalans. But overall this is the correct the image. The Catalans are Northern Southerners. Or Southern Northerners. And we have very few problems with that... Author: Bram Starckx. Bram Starckx is a Belgian freelance copywriter with a fascination for marketing, new media and Catalonia. He regularly seeks peace and inspiration in the vicinity of Sant Feliu de Guíxols. He’ll answer all your questions on bram@starckx.be or Facebook. Photo: Hugo Pardo Kuklinsky
A clothing shop specialised in women clothing for every occasion. Soft fabrics, comfortable to wear every moment of the day, each time of the year. Every combination is possible, layer upon layer, colour with colour, create your own fantasy. A special design? No problem, we will find you a solution so that you’ll get the outfit you want, all handmade. Of course we have the matching handmade jewelry.
C/ Miquel Ferrer 21 17130 Lloret de Mar Tel. 664214237 www.avalontienda.com info@avalontienda.com
Legal column Spanish property in the year 2010: is it time to start buying? The question that many people ask me is whether the time has come to start buying property in Spain. In other words: will property prices go down further? If I knew the answer, I would certainly tell, but I do not know it. I do have some ideas. The current situation is as follows. The Spanish economy is faltering because it is largely based on the construction of houses. In 2006 there were more houses built in Spain than in Germany, France and the United Kingdom together! This is partly because Spain scarcely has a market for rental of housing. Spain doesn’t have public or semipublic housing corporations like many other countries do, and Spaniards traditionally want ownership of his or her house. Several other factors also played a role, such as historically low interest rates in Spain after the euro was introduced and the fact that the Spanish banks for the first time started providing top mortgages. Thus far, this had never happened. In 2007 and 2008 however, the interest rate went up and caused an abrupt end to the boom in the property market, which by then for other reasons, was already at its peak. After that unemployment has rapidly increased, with the result that many homeowners and property developers could no longer pay off their mortgages. Over the last eighteen months, the Spanish banks have seized a lot of real estate from the homeowners in exchange for waiver of their mortgage. Sometimes with the option to rent the house back from the bank. For over eighteen months, banks have continued to do this with the result that they are fully packed with real estate. If the Spanish banks would try to resell all the real estate they own at once , prices would collapse and then the banks have a major problem. Because then, the rest of the property on their balance sheet would be worthless and the banks would have a solvency problem. The result is, that the Spanish banks will do everything to maintain the current price level. Therefore, they will not mass market the seized properties.
BANK
Then what are their options? As far as I can see they have three alternatives: • (Re) easing the criteria for mortgage loans. • Letting of property. • Demolition of many properties. The first two alternatives are the most obvious. Since the outbreak of the crisis, the banks hardly provide mortgage loans. This they will have to change. They will again have to provide attractive loan terms, otherwise they have little choice, but to lower the property prices. I believe to see some early signals of such easing.
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As for the rental, I would not rule out the possibility that the Spanish banks will put large amounts of houses up for rent. This is not a Spanish tradition but given the circumstances, they might have to start with that. Re-easing the criteria for obtaining a mortgage loan is good news for some northern Europeans who wish to settle or retire in Spain or buy a holiday home. The income situation for northern Europeans is usually better than that of Spaniards and moreover, for those who wish to retire some northern Europeans, such as Dutch, German or UK citizens have significantly better pension schemes than Spanish do. These northern European buyers could become quite popular with the Spanish banks. In short, in my humble opinion, a mix of the first two alternatives will occur, with an accent on the easing of conditions for mortgage lending. Of course there are still some issues that could spoil things. The interest rate will go up one of these days, which will make the borrowing of money less attractive. Secondly, the Spanish developers have a total debt to the Spanish banks of 325 billion euros. This is an incredibly huge amount that must be continually refinanced because it is currently not being paid off. The Spanish government finally, is busy negotiating with Brussels the terms of the aid package for the Spanish banks in order to avoid that they will go into bankruptcy. Everyone in Europe is afraid of a domino effect as we can see from the support that Greece gets. Therefore I consider it highly unlikely that in Spain we will see events as we have seen in the U.S.A. Too big to fail? As we see in these times, the politicians are terrified to be blamed for anything. Therefore taxpayers money will be used easily to keep the system afloat. I do not see why this would not happen now. Like many other counties, Spain does not have courageous politicians. Perhaps better for all of us? Is this the moment to buy property in Spain or not? In other words, will prices drop further or not ? As already mentioned, there is no certainty as to what will happen. Nobody can give you a guarantee about what will happen. To quote Clint Eastwood: "if you want a guarantee, buy a toaster". On one side, Spanish banks have to sell real estate to generate liquidity while on the other side, they have to uphold current market value. This is a "catch-22". The most logical conclusion is that they will opt for a mix where the prices will continue to decline until there will be a rise in demand, and on the other hand re-easing the conditions for mortgage loans to stimulate that same rise in demand. Europe is not the United States of America where they make a clean sweep to be able to start from scratch. In the U.S.A. the prices continued to sinik, until the market hit the bottom. This is not a likely scenario for Europe and Spain, unless things will get out of control and the circumstances force the banks to sell. This scenario however, is not very likely to occur. However, as long as the Spanish banks don’t re-ease the ability to borrow, prices can only fall, because nobody buys. In the end, the money must come from somewhere. Jan Willem de Haan, Barcelona, Februari 2010 Jan Willem de Haan is a lawyer in the Netherlands and Spain and lives and works in Barcelona since 1992. Together with his active business partner Boris Mulder he runs the two establishments (located in Barcelona and Valencia) of their firm De Haan & Mulder. www.dehaanmulder.com
Events Calendar * TERRASSA JAZZ FESTIVAL From the 10th until the 28th of March 2010, the 29th Jazz Festival will be organized in Terrassa. For programming and prices see: www.jazzterrassa.org * LOOP BARCELONA From the 12th until the 22nd of May Loop Video Art Festival will be organized in Barcelona. For more information see: www.loop-barcelona.com /eng/press.html
* FICOMIC 2010 From the 6th until the 9th of May Dutch cartoonists will be put in the spotlight in Barcelona. The Netherlands will be guest of honor at the FICOMIC, with 10,000 visitors one of the largest comic festival in Europe. Sant Jordi The launch of the Dutch presence in Barcelona is on April 23rd. At Sant Jordi, the important Catalan holiday, ten thousand copies of a selection of Dutch 'gags' will be distributed in the largest bookstore in Barcelona, to increase awareness of Dutch comics.More information is available at www.ficomic.com * SWAB INTERNATIONAL CONTEMPORARY ART FAIR BACELONA Definition of Swab: “Swab: small piece of absorbent material at the end of a stick or wire�. Swab will absorb 40 galleries around the World between the 13th and the 16th of May 2010 in Barcelona. The aim of the organizers is to present emergent contemporary art from around the world art scene being a platform for a young generation of national and international galleries. www.swab.es /index.php
Continued on page: 51
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Cala Bona, Tossa de Mar. Photo: Francesc Tur. Costa Brava Tourism Board Archive of Images.
What: MEDIEVAL MARKET Where: Calonge-Sant Antoni Setmana Santa When: From march 26th until april 4th www.calonge.cat
What: INTERNATIONAL DIXIELAND FESTIVAL OF TARRAGONA Where: Tarragona When: Last week of March and first week of April www.dixielandtarragona.cat
What: CRAFT CHEESE OF THE BAIX EMPORDÀ MARKET
Where: Peratallada When: End of April www.forallac.com What: “ALLIOLI” SAUCE COMPETITION Where: Sant Feliu de Guíxols When: Third Sunday of May www.guixols.net
Comic Fair Jazz Festival
What: TRAPEZI 2010. 14TH CIRCUS FESTIVAL OF CATALUNYA Where : Reus When: From the 12th to the 16th of May www.trapezi.cat
Art Fair
In the Next Issue: Wine Girona Top 10: Beaches
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Costa Brava & Catalunya Magazine: Editor: M. Hooijmeijer Design: SUMMUM Graphic Design Script: M. Hooijmeijer
Contributors to this issue: J.W. De Haan, S. Walker, B. Starckx Photography: M. Hooijmeijer, B. Schut, S. Walker, G. Jacobs, Y. Janssen, H. Smith With some pictures we couldn’t identify the photographer. Do you recognize your own picture? Please contact the editor.
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