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OPEN FOR ENTRY! CREATIVE HEAD’S MOST WANTED AND THE IT LIST AWARDS CELEBRATE THE MOST EXCITING AND ACCOMPLISHED TALENTS IN UK AND IRISH HAIRDRESSING. WILL YOU SEE YOUR NAME IN LIGHTS IN 2020? #MWIT20 �CREATIVEHEADMAG
MWIT20 MWIT 2020
2020
event
CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM�MOSTWANTED CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM�THEITLIST COMPETITIONS CLOSE MONDAY 13 MAY
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THIS IS
CONTENTS
OUR MISSION IS TO CELEBRATE COLOUR AND THE ARTISTS CREATING IT – AND TALK FRANKLY ABOUT WHAT’S HAPPENING IN THE SALON AND ONLINE
08 PAINTERS
Our team share their top Instagram inspirations
16 THE FORECAST 22 THIS CHANGED MY LIFE 30 ENTER THE TONE ZONE 36 IN UNISON 42 SOCIAL GATHERING 46 PAINTBOX 48 ART SCHOOL 50 OPINION
42
The most wearable colour trends from the catwalk
Watershed moments in the lives of colourists
36
How to make the most of toners in your business
The ASP Colour Rebels celebrate inclusiveness
16
50
It takes more than just a like to build an online following
The latest launches for your colour kit
Boost your skills with these colour courses
Edward Hemmings asks: is balayage bad for business?
22
30 ON THE COVER
Hair by the ASP Colour Rebels and ASP Affinage Salon Professional global ambassador Tracey Devine-Smith
EDITOR Amanda Nottage DEPUTY EDITOR Deborah Murtha ART DIRECTOR Nick Jabbal CONTRIBUTORS Kelsey Dring, Anna Samson DIGITAL DESIGNER Eva Vestmann CHIEF SUB EDITOR Adam Wood COMMERCIAL EDITOR Eve Wagstaff PUBLISHER Catherine Handcock PAINT is a supplement of Creative HEAD. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission from the publisher. All information is correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press
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r l o C Crush RS SHARE EVERYTHING FROM VISIT PAINT ONLINE AND SEE OUR RESIDENT PAINTE WE ASKED THEM TO NAME THREE . ICE ADV ENT CLI AND LAS MU FOR TO S QUE HNI TEC ING. GET READY TO DOUBLE TAP… INSTAGRAM ACCOUNTS THEY FIND MOST INSPIR
@mrstevenphilip
A friend from my clubbing days in the ’90s, Steven is founder of the vintage store Rellik in Ladbroke Grove. He has one the most diverse collections of archived designs, from bespoke McQueen to Vivienne Westwood show pieces. It’s definitely a place to explore.
@darrenambrose
Darren Ambrose is by far one of my favourite hairdressers in the industry. His work is always on point and always fashionforward. He’s a great pal and one of the most humble human beings. I never fail to be inspired by his awardwinning looks.
@dustmagazine
y a r G о Ja
A quality magazine that never fails to deliver. It’s full of really edgy editorials that capture the eye and the imagination. I’m constantly drawn in by its unique way of showcasing work. The front covers are always epic!
AKA KARBON KYD
08 | PAINT
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Paddy McD gall
RAINBOW ROOM INTERNATIONAL
Lexie Shay Rabbe
GuESt PAINTER!
@HAIR_BY_LEXIESHAY
@RareBooksParis
@anhcotran
@C__l__o
@brandon messingerhair
A treasure trove of references drawn from some of the rarest, outof-print fashion books and publications around. From Martin Margiela to Raf Simons, some of my favourite images live on this feed.
An online moodboard run by London-based creative Lauren Faye. It is a captivating archive of images celebrating the fusion of art, fashion and photography, and it provides me with a constant stream of inspiration.
@PierreCardin Officiel
The iconic French designer blazed a trail in the ’60s and ’70s with his use of bold colours, futuristic shapes, patterns and textures. The haute couture collections provide endless inspiration and a colour masterclass.
This guy is a lived-in balayage expert! I stalk his page all day, every day for texture cutting techniques, lived-in styling tips and some major natural chunky balayage vibes. I could watch his videos for hours.
I’ve followed Brandon since I moved to the UK from Australia. I feel we’re similar in style but he’s next-level perfection. If you aren’t following, do yourself a favour and get on it because he is cutting/styling/ colouring realness.
@jaymz.marsters
If you’re a colourist and not following him, you must have been living under a rock! Jaymz is a master in his craft, perfection is an understatement regarding how he applies his colouring techniques. His creative mind knows no bounds.
PAINT | 09
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S hia Hil n Casey Coleman NOT ANOTHER SALON
CHAIR SALONS
2019
@garyvee
@conorjmd
@jorel_doherty
@JamieFurlan
@iamginabianca
@shmeggsand baconn
My number one is my business hero Gary. Not everyone will like him – he’s loud, aggressive and very American. He teaches that you don’t get anything for nothing, and his work ethic blows my mind. He’s the ‘you have to get off your arse and do it’ guy. Maybe not what you were expecting here, but I really like following my husband. As he’s a stay-at-home dad, it’s awesome to watch Stories of him and our kid playing together. But more than that, I like reading what he writes about being a man at home. I love this chick, she’s a hair educator from Connecticut. Straight talking, easy to understand and real. You should follow her because there’s so much to learn from her. She’s transparent about everything and anything, as a good educator should be.
Instagram is such an amazing tool, and I live for colour! Conor is an incredible corrective colourist who constantly posts ways to make corrections easier, but he’s very honest! He’s also hilarious, so I’m definitely here for the hair ha-has. Jamie is an Australian hair genius. Not only is his colour work off the charts, his styling is too. He’s innovative, creative, and ohso stylish. I love looking at what he creates – it sparks artistic energy in me, and I can’t get enough.
Megan is a goddess – the way she colours is brilliant. I’ll be honest, I’m not a massive fan of American aesthetics, they’re normally way too over the top for me, but not Megan. She has a way of capturing her work in a simple, beautiful way.
10 | PAINT
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Sarah Black LINTON & MAC
@tyler_spangler
I came across Tyler’s work a few months ago and it instantly drew me in. I’m a sucker for good use of colour and interesting shade combinations. I love contrasting elements, so his use of old black and white photography mashed together with vivid digital art is super cool!
@beautyspock
Frances is a make-up artist and model who creates the most beautiful and interesting colour stories through hair and makeup. Everything she does has a classic concept with something that makes it modern and fresh, and that’s exactly what I aim to do with my own work.
@renyaxydis
Renya is so effortlessly good at what she does; or at least she makes it look effortless! I love that she gives insight behind her looks and how she created them. That’s the beauty of social media – you can be on the other side of the world from a creative and still learn something from them.
For more insight, advice, techniques and inspiration, check out our PAINTERS at creativeheadmag.com/paint PAINT | 11
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PLAY WITH GLOW THE DEMAND FOR GLOWING FINISHES IS ON THE RISE. BECOME A BEACON OF POSSIBILITIES WITH INOA GLOW SHADES FROM L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL
FOR 2020 IT’S ALL ABOUT that supernatural glow. Fresh, subtle variations on natural shades with a healthy-looking, reflective quality are a booming business proposition. While there will always be a place for lovers of adventurous colour, a significant portion of your colour business will always be the creation of beautiful, wearable hair. Building on the success of the Majirel Glow launch last year, L’Oréal Professionnel is bringing the same luminosity and ultrawearable colour to INOA. INOA Glow is where L’Oréal Professionnel’s Glow technology meets indulgence. It’s everything people already love about the Glow finish and technology – brilliant neutralisation and luminosity – now combined with the INOA difference: ammonia-free colour for a pleasant smell and optimal scalp comfort. INOA Glow offers a palette of nine shades, from ashy to iridescent and mocha. All shades preserve the hair’s natural transparency, allowing for more natural and luminous results. INOA Glow lifts and neutralises at the same time, revealing incredible light reflection, while always respecting the naturally enhanced effect from INOA colour that hairdressers and clients love.
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MEET THE GLOW-GETTERS THE INOA GLOW CLIENT COULD BE SITTING IN YOUR CHAIR ALREADY
As ever, beauty trends are cyclical in nature and we’ve returned to clients investing in a more naturally perfected look. Skincare sales are overtaking make-up sales, and clients are seeking new opportunities to enhance their natural beauty and colour. There are so many colour opportunities to discuss with clients. Clients looking to rejuvenate their hair in a subtle way, cover a smattering of greys and see a boost in healthy shine can relax knowing that the shades have an ultra-natural finish. Younger clients, looking to take their first steps into colour can be reassured with the ammonia-free formula and glossy finish. Colour lovers can experiment with endless mixing potential. Millennial and Gen Z clients are open to having that conversation with you, to explore the possibilities of hair colour beyond simply lightening or balayage. For the increasingly clued-up customer, INOA could be that initial step into becoming a Glow and colour convert. The natural-looking results are perfect for first-time colour clients, those who previously coloured but have lapsed and those who want a refresh in between balayage appointments. The ammonia-free colours have a new and improved texture which offer incredible light reflection, cool tones and translucency to sell colour as an enhanced natural finish. INOA Glow uses the same Oil Delivery System (ODS) that INOA colourists love, with the combination of the Glow innovations sparked by Majirel Glow. INOA Glow can give your colour menu a fresh lease of life.
AFTER
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D.13 TAUPE LESS + L.13 TAUPE LESS
l G n e d l o G t Ligh
BEFORE
Let your clients try out INOA Glo w colours with zero commitment. Download the Style My Hair Pro app for real -time digital tran sformations and colour inspiration
Shine a light on no-ammonia colour services with new INOA Glow shades. For more information, call 0800 030 4034 or visit lorealprofessionnel.co.uk #lorealprouk #lorealproire PAINT | 15
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House of Holland
Max Mara
GCDS
Bora Aksu
t s a c e f The S/S20
Matty Bovan
Paula Knorr
Rose Danford-Phillips at On|Off
Molly Goddard
Erdem
D AS EACH SEASON DAWNS, NEW TRENDS AN ING TECHNIQUES ARRIVE ON THE RUNWAY, FILTER D INTO THROUGH INSTAGRAM VIA EDITORIALS ANIST TO THE SALON. WE ASKED TOP HAIR COLOURLOURS TRENDS IDENTIFY THE THREE MOST EXCITING CO THE LOOKS FOR S/S20, ENABLING YOU TO RECREATE . IT’S TIME LIGHTING UP SOCIAL MEDIA FOR CLIENTS AND TAKE TO BRUSH UP YOUR COLOUR KNOWLEDGE EL YOUR TREND KNOW-HOW TO THE NEXT LEV
16 | PAINT
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TIGI
Charles Worthington
Smiths Salons
ASP Affinage Salon Professional
DAKS
PRODUCTS Infuse My.Colour, ASP INFINITI b.Brown, L’Oréal Professionnel Majirel, ALFAPARF Milano Precious Nature , Wella Professionals Koleston Perfect ME+ Pure Naturals
Schwarzkopf Professional
Sweet t reaʦ
THE TREND CHOCOLATE BOX
From gooey caramels and praline mousses to rich cocoas and dark ganache, there’s a sweet treat of inspiration for every head of hair this season. “Tones ranging from buttery blondes to mocha brunettes work together to create a rich colour,” says Katie Hale, head of colour at Charles Worthington. “The chocolate box trend encompasses a range of super-healthy, shiny and multidimensional chocolate tones from white chocolate to dark cocoa,” agrees Adrian Paoluccio, colour artist at Smiths Salons in Soho. “I normally use freehand techniques with a combination of strand lights to achieve these natural looks, and always finish with a glossy toner by Schwarzkopf Professional.” Clients with finer hair will love this look, as the different tones can give the impression of added volume. “The multidimensional colour will make hair seem thicker and healthier,” says Krysia Eddery, Aveda colour ambassador and owner of Perfectly Posh Hair. “Toasted blondes, with flecks of darker shades throughout give a super blended finish.” This trend has a natural feel too, according to Kerrie O’Reilly, TIGI European technical director. “For brunettes, the key is not to oversaturate,” she says. “Add depth and dimension to create movement and step away from a flat, block colour.” The beauty of this trend is creating a bespoke look. “We will see lots of colour placement to frame the face, and contouring layers to complement skin tones,” says Tracy Hayes, global head of technical training at Fudge Professional. “Each technique and placement will be individual and will send the message that this is expensive hair.” PAINT | 17
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Wella Professionals
THE TREND SKY HIGH
Aveda evo fab pro
Dawn dusk Stil Salon
Classic Blue
Bad Apple Hair
PANTONE
PRODUCTS Staino by evo fab pro, Paul Mitchell The Demi, TIGI Copyright Colour True Light Freestyle Blonder, Aveda Full Spectrum Vibrants, Goldwell Elumen Play, JOICO Color Intensity Pearl Pastel
APUJAN
Heads will be in the clouds this summer – from the soft pinks of sunrise and the bright cobalt of midday through to burnt sunsets and shimmering twilight tones, this sky-inspired palette is fresh and adaptable. “Pantone’s Colour of the Year for 2020 is Classic Blue – a shade reminiscent of the sky at dusk,” says Steph Peckmore, colour manager at Bad Apple Hair. “It’s said to symbolise what’s coming next – the future, the unknown and a new decade. It’s an interesting choice, and one that will undoubtedly filter through to hair.” “I have used blue skies as a source of inspiration for some recent creative colour work in the salon,” explains Sarah Black, colour expert at Linton & Mac and The It List It Girl 2019. “Adam Reed brought out the denim hair trend a few years back, and last year we saw more aqua tones – this year is changing again into more true blues.” Neil Barton, owner of Neil Barton and Goldwell ambassador, suggests that the pale colours associated with dawn are another way to tap into this trend. “I definitely think muted pastel tones will be popular in 2020,” he says. “Think softer tones that fade beautifully like peaches, lilacs and dusk-like pinks. These are the perfect shades as we move into spring.” And for the more wary clients who want a low commitment way to tap into this trend, Aveda offers a range of services called Lightwaves. “The tonal quality of these trends will suit every skin tone,” says Joe Hill, lead colour educator for Aveda UK. “From cooler mink-like dusk tones through to warmer bright daylight tones, there is a shade to suit every need.” 18 | PAINT
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Bleach London
THE TREND HEAVY CONTRAST
Robert Eaton for Wella Professionals
Slunks
Mimi Wade
HOB Salons
PRODUCTS Revlon Professional Revlonissimo Cromatics, Redken Shades EQ Gloss, Schwarzkopf Professional Chroma ID, Fudge Professional Head Paint, Guy Tang #mydentity
Fyodor Golan
Fashion images courtesy of ANTI, Aveda, BaByliss PRO, ghd, L’Oréal Professionnel, R+Co and Wella Professionals
t g n i S ik
The ’90s are undoubtedly here to stay. It started with chokers and sportswear, and now blocky, high contrast hair is having a moment. Play with root stretches, chunky highlights and statement sections for a look that’s equally retro and modern. “This trend was huge in the late ‘90s when the likes of Gwen Stefani and Christina Aguilera were brave enough to wear it,” explains Warren Boodaghians, head of technical at HOB Salons and Academy. “Clients can go strong and bold with the colour placement or alter the contrast between dark and light by going softer for a more delicate finish.” The crowd visiting Bleach London regularly request statement colour at the front of their hair. “It’s a nod to the ’90s but it gained popularity with designer Mimi Wade,” says Bleach founder Alex Brownsell. Combining these colours with a carefully chosen cut can elevate the look further. “This can suit a more simplistic and structured shape along with anyone who wants to make a stronger statement with colour,” says Wella UK and Ireland technical director Robert Eaton. “It’s all about research and looking into some of the shapes and colour placement used, while at the same time giving it a modern and more current twist.” Anne Veck, owner of Anne Veck in Oxford, points out that this trend can be adapted for a gentler look. “Britain is going to go crazy for contrast hair à la Cruella De Vil, but it doesn’t have to be as stark as her look,” she says. “Subtler colouring will become more widespread. Use a centre parting with a half-half look for striking effect.” PAINT | 19
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Violeʦ are blue… DIVE A LITTLE DEEPER INTO COLOUR WITH NEW VIOLET AND BLUE SHADES FROM PAUL MITCHELL PROFESSIONAL HAIR COLOR’S THE DEMI JUST WHEN YOU think you know what you can achieve with demi-permanent hair colour, something comes along to expand your colour horizons. Five new Violet and Blue shades join the already successful line-up of The Demi from Paul Mitchell Professional Hair Color to offer true violet and blue ash undertones, ranging from cool blonde to rich blue-black. Three bottles of Paul Mitchell The Demi are sold every minute worldwide, and it’s not hard to see why. These intermixable formulas can be used to create unique shades, or be used alone for shiny, vibrant and healthy-looking finishes. The smooth gel consistency offers gentle, no-ammonia colour deposit for rich colour results that last up to six weeks. The new shades span the spectrum between delicate violet and deepest cobalt, perfect for tapping into Pantone’s trending Colour of the Year, Classic Blue.
20 | PAINT
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COLIN CARUSO, ARTISTIC DIRECTOR OF PAUL MITCHELL PROFESSIONAL HAIR COLOR, SHARES ADVICE ON HOW TO STAY ON TOP OF THE TRENDS WITH THE DEMI VIOLETS AND BLUES PAINT: The Demi shade offering is expanding with the addition of the Violets and Blues. What can we expect from these new shades? Colin Caruso: You can expect the same healthy shine, vibrant saturation and fluid consistency you always get from The Demi. These tones are on-trend and they work right out of the bottle! Add them to any shade (except for Muted Metallics) to add coolness and depth to any formula. Get creative and see where it takes you. Don’t be afraid to swatch – swatching is key. Also, a capful can go a long way on lighter tones to create innovative new blondes. PAINT: What other colour trends can we expect to see this year? CC: We will continue to see cool, pale blonde tones inspired by nature. Even matte green undertones on blondes will trend. Guests want an element of individuality, but also like the idea of ‘natural’, especially in blondes. Red-brown hybrids will continue to rise. Jade green and metallic blue-blacks will trend at deeper levels. Blues, greys and taupes are still on-trend as well, with a balanced palette of colours to avoid looking silver. Either way, healthy-looking hair is always trending! PAINT: How can stylists adapt these trends for their everyday guests? CC: It’s good to be prepared. Swatch formulas to test and be ready for trends before they come into the salon. Nothing is worse than trying to figure out how to do a new trend on a first-time, paying guest. Use your social media channels to attract guests who are willing to wear these new colours and get to work. Practice makes perfect.
Expand your colour horizons with the The Demi Violets and Blues, available exclusively from Salon Success. For more information call 0845 659 0011 or visit salon-success.co.uk PAINT | 21
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AINE CARTY
THE EVENT: Redken Symposium “Redken queen Sheri Doss had an Instagram post looking for people to share their story and personal experiences about what Redken meant to them. I reached out and honestly never thought any more of it. Fast forward a couple of months and I found myself at the Redken Symposium in Las Vegas, representing Ireland as a brand ambassador on an international stage for the opening show. I was completely over the moon at the opportunity. The hard-hitting moment for me was being on stage with three other ambassadors, seeing our faces on a gigantic screen. “The impact on my career was incredible. It helped to raise my profile and grow my following within the industry, headlining masterclasses and facilitating seminars. I’ve had colourists and stylists DM-ing me for formulas or advice on a certain look or shade, hairdressers wanting selfies, even a young mum telling me I had inspired her. It was an incredibly humbling experience.”
THIS CHANGED
my life
YOUR CAREER CAN TRANSFORM IN A MOMENT – A DISTINCT BEFORE AND AFTER, WHERE THINGS WERE NEVER THE SAME AGAIN. THESE COLOURISTS ALL HAD MOMENTS AT EVENTS OR THROUGH EDUCATION THAT PROPELLED THEIR CAREERS TO NEW HEIGHTS… IS YOUR MOMENT NEXT?
JORDANNA COBELLA THE EVENT: Wella Professionals Master Colour Expert programme “Before completing the Master Colour Expert programme I felt as though I was colouring blindly. I had my favourite goto shades and didn’t take advantage of the full colour portfolio due to a lack of in-depth knowledge on product technology. I was very comfortable with most colouring services, but when it came to colour correction, I would have a lot of unanswered questions and find myself in situations I did not anticipate. “Knowledge really is power, and the course helped me answer the why as well as the how. I can now predict every potential scenario for colour and my experience and skill set has improved dramatically. There were so many lightbulb moments along the way.” 22 | PAINT
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Educa о
NEIL BARTON
THE EVENT: Goldwell Color Zoom Challenge “I was the first ever UK winner of the Goldwell Color Zoom Trophy in 2010, winning the Creative Category in Paris, which was incredible. The win really did enhance my career and opened up so many opportunities. It got my name out there as being a great colourist, and now I travel the globe with Goldwell and share my skills, knowledge and expertise with hairdressers all over the world. “I was honoured and surprised when I received the Global Zoom Hall of Fame trophy in 2018 in Toronto – the award is given to a person who maximises their win at the Color Zoom Challenge, someone who has developed their career and has mentored people throughout the Goldwell network. It was proof of how that initial win has played a huge part in my career.”
SINÉAD KELLY AND VAS MIKELLIDES THE EVENT: L’Oréal Colour Trophy
“It’s one thing to win the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Grand Final once, but going in the second time, the biggest thing for us was to implement the techniques we had in mind. The fact that we won – again – gave us a whole new platform. We were invited to showcase at L’Oréal Colour Congress, which was our first time presenting there. It’s something we’re considering doing more of in the future as we had some people asking us about courses. “The win also profiled the Sinéad Kelly salon a lot more. The first win – especially being a small, independent salon – can almost seem like an anomaly. Most people who have won the competition just tick it off the list and move on, but it really cemented our position. The pressure was quite high to try again, we went with what we wanted to do because we could try something a bit left field, something you might not normally consider for a competition like this. Winning it twice also made a big difference with our clients, on a consumer level. It proved who we are, and validates the prices we charge.”
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brand new Have you heard about Goldwell’s Colour our Find rds? Awa e ativ Global Cre ils deta Contest Cheat Sheet with all the aint m/p g.co on creativeheadma
MARK LEESON
THE EVENT: Most Wanted Colour Expert Award
“A massive turning point in my colouring career was winning Creative HEAD’s Most Wanted Colour Expert – in 2010 and 2014. To say I was delighted is an understatement, and to be recognised for my passion was, and is, so rewarding. On a business level it helped us to grow and open new salons, gain column inches, and employ dedicated team members, along with shoots, education around the world and events. “It really validated our colour expertise. I realised 20 years ago that colour was, and continues to be, the core of my business. I knew I wanted to have true mastery of colour – and in particular, perfecting blondes was my goal. Anyone can lighten hair but it’s what you do with it afterwards, and toning for me is still where my team and I excel.”
Are you the next Most Wanted Colour Expe rt? Go to creativeheadma g.com/mostwanted
19/02/2020 16:07
VIBRANTLY HAPPY *From plants, non-petroleum minerals or water
WHO SAYS NATURALLY-DERIVED COLOUR CAN’T DO VIVID? LET US BRIGHTEN UP YOUR COLOUR BAR WITH FULL SPECTRUM VIBRANTS FROM AVEDA THERE HAS NEVER been a more exciting, playful and experimental time for hair colour (thanks Instagram!), or a time when consumers have been more concerned with sustainability and the impact of the choices they make. But the perception has long been that if a product is naturally derived, its performance suffers. And colourists need to know they will get the results that they need delivered, every time. Well, salon colour’s getting brighter. Full Spectrum Vibrants from Aveda is a semi-permanent treatment hair colour palette of intense shades that can be mixed to create a spectacular spectrum of results, from sheer and translucent to opaque and vivid… with no developer
needed! Because this line-up is 95 per cent naturally derived,* Full Spectrum Vibrants provides instant shine and nourishing condition, thanks to its signature blend of protective plant oils and plant-derived ingredients. By fusing a conditioning blend of certified organic plant oils, including kukui, sunflower, castor and jojoba, this colour range helps improve the condition of damaged hair and provides radiant shine that will look killer under a ring light! With a brilliant 11 shades to choose from, you’ll know you can find the perfect shade for your colour-loving but eco-conscious client. This is vivid colour, naturally derived, that delivers. The future just got a whole lot brighter…
FULL SPECTRUM VIBRANTS – WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW • Smooth consistency = easy application, thanks to corn-derived solvents • No nasty aroma as certified organic ylang ylang, petitgrain and ginger deliver a floral, spicy fragrance
• There are no synthetic glycols, silicones, phthalates, parabens, mineral oil, oxidative dyes or ammonia in the formula
AZALEA RASPBERRY POPPY TANGERINE DAFFODIL EMERALD LAGOON COBALT IRIS CHARCOAL CLEAR 24 | PAINT
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Want to see what colourists can achieve with Full Spectrum Vibrants from Ave da? Turn the page and take a peek‌
R
PAINT | 25
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FRESH LIFESTYLE SALON & SPA @freshlifestyleaveda
ELEMENTS HAIR & BEAUTY
@elements_hair_and_beauty
BLOOM
@bloomavedalifestyle
#LETSGETVIBRANT
RINGLIGHTS AT THE READY – LET’S SEE HOW UK AVEDA COLOURISTS ARE SHARING THEIR WORK WITH FULL SPECTRUM VIBRANTS ON INSTAGRAM
GINA CONWAY
@gina_conway_aveda
OXYGEN
@oxygenaveda
JO MCKAY
@joelouisemckay
BUTCHERS SALON
@butcherssalon
THE WONDERLAB
@thewonderlabhair
BROTHERS OXFORD
@brothersoxford
26 | PAINT
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SAY HELLO TO JOE HILL
MEET @THECOLOURBOY, THE AVEDA COLOUR WHIZZ WHO’S HERE TO HELP MAKE YOUR COLOUR CAREER POP! My role is Aveda colour specialist UK & Ireland, and I’m on the Aveda UK & Ireland Pro Team. My job is split in two; firstly I work with the Aveda salon network creating technical education plans to help drive their business to the next level. I also work with all the teams within Aveda to ensure we can offer our salon network and salon guests the most from Aveda colour, whether this is working with PR on photo shoots or sales teams… no day is ever the same!
WHAT ARE YOUR FAVOURITE VIBRANTS SHADES TO PLAY WITH?
I love them all, however I really like creating vintage, aged-looking colours at the moment. Think faded mauve or blushed bronze. That’s why I like working with our charcoal shade and intermixing with whatever tone will suit!
WHAT’S EXCITING FROM AVEDA EDUCATION IN 2020?
I am super-excited about our exclusive partnership with Vladimir Sarbashev. He’s the creator of the AirTouch Technique, a modern way to freehand balayage hair utilising airflow as your tool. It really is a game-changer.
WHY DO YOU LOVE WORKING WITH AVEDA COLOUR?
It’s so unique and honestly that’s what I really love about it. I have been colouring hair for more than 18 years and I’ve never used a colour line that expands my creativity and gives my salon guests ultimate options like this, because Aveda Full Spectrum colour is fully customisable. It’s also 95 per cent naturally derived.*
WHAT’S IN STORE FOR YOU NEXT?
Block colour versus natural colour. I think the next big application trend is going to be working with the beautiful natural canvases we all know and love and adding geometry through focal areas like the fringe or under the parting. For example, taking a natural-looking balayage and creating extremely light sections through the focal area utilising triangle/square or circular sections, merging extreme natural with extreme bold.
WHAT ARE YOUR TOP TIPS FOR COLOURISTS SHARING THEIR WORK ON INSTAGRAM?
There are so many elements to creating an amazing feed. First of all, be personable! We have seconds to capture an audience so let your personality shine. Second, when taking the image, find a nice brick wall/plain background or, if your salon has no spare space, buy a pull-down projector blind for an affordable photoshoot finish.
HOW SHOULD COLOURISTS TAG THEIR WORK TO BE SEEN BY AVEDA?
#avedaartist #aveda #avedacolour #avedacolourist #avedafullspectrumcolour #avedablonde #avedavibrants
*From plants, non-petroleum minerals or water
WHAT DOES YOUR ROLE ENTAIL?
Want to make your colour business even brighter with Full Spectrum Vibrants? Visit aveda.co.uk/professional PAINT | 27
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FULL METAL ALCHEMY GOLDWELL’S NEW METALLIC SHADES ARE POSITIVELY MAGNETIC
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We had three key requirements when we started looking for a new colour house. Excellent products, excellent company culture and a competitive contract agreement. Goldwell met all of these and more Luke Halford
Addicted to Colour, Leicester
THE FUTURE IS not just bright, it’s metallic. Six new shades have arrived in the Goldwell Elumen colour collection, including four shimmering metallic Elumen Play colours. Known for its trendforward hues, Elumen is here to take shine to a whole new level. New Light Grey Gy@9 and Medium Grey Gy@6 add a sophisticated, cool edge to your looks, and there are four new semi-permanent Elumen Play shades – glistening @Metallic Berry, glimmering @Metallic Purple, shimmering @Metallic Petrol and shiny @Metallic Silver – which can be used for all-over shimmer, or to add glow to your colour creations with metallic sparkles. The hyper-reflective, glossy results last for up to four weeks and will fade on tone if Elumen Care is used at home. If your client can’t wait for a new shade, Elumen Play Eraser quickly removes previous colour and prepares hair for the next creation! “The new metallic shades are stunning,” says Goldwell guest artist Nicola Smyth. “They’re the perfect shades to use directly on your client’s hair. If you want to play and get creative, all of the colours are intermixable, so you can come up with totally bespoke results.” These new additions have entered Goldwell’s outstanding nonoxidative, ammonia-free Elumen range – an intensive hair colour that
works with direct-acting colour pigments to penetrate deep inside the hair. Elumen direct dye technology is known for its incredible shine, extraordinary colour brilliance and longevity, which works to repair the hair structure even as it colours. Innovation is at the core of Goldwell’s colour portfolio, resulting in fresh possibilities for both colourists and consumers. If you have a creative vision, Goldwell wants to help you achieve it. “I’ve been in the industry 40 years and I can honestly say that there is no other colour portfolio like it out there,” says Goldwell ambassador and industry icon Beverly C. “The colour palettes and the sheer innovation within the ranges have opened up a whole new world of creativity for me.” No stone has been left unturned – take Goldwell @Pure Pigments for example, which feature revolutionary dye technology developed over 17 years in collaboration with experts at FujiFilm. The result? Hyper-pigmented colour with unbelievable shine and fade resistance. Even the colour delivery system has been evolved and perfected – the Topchic Depot Can system has won over legions of colourists for its ease, precision and waste reduction. For every facet of the colour experience, Goldwell never stops seeking to improve and innovate.
Experience a different way of creating colour. To discover more about Goldwell’s colour portfolio and this season’s metallic shades, call 0330 123 9530 or visit goldwell.co.uk PAINT | 29
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Redken Shades EQ
Tоing
Enter the
TONE ZONE
TONERS ARE GREAT, AREN’T THEY? PERFECT FOR BANISHING UNWANTED BRASS, ADDING A TEMPORARY SHADE OR REFRESHING SHINE BETWEEN COLOUR APPOINTMENTS – BUT ARE YOU MAKING THE MOST OF THEM IN YOUR BUSINESS? 30 | PAINT
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WHAT’S ON THE MENU?
L’Oréal Professionnel Majirel Glow
Sophie Gibson, art team member of salon group Hooker & Young, emphasises the importance of a toning menu. “It’s important to make it clear that colour is a journey. Creating a menu that keeps this in clients’ minds ensures you’re on the same wavelength in regards to services provided, products needed and overall cost,” she explains. “Offering toner services after a previous colour service is vital for maximising profit and loyalty.”
@blendsalon Tweakments menu ing Redken Shades EQ Ton
SCROLL THROUGH YOUR Instagram feed, and you’ll notice that the hair colours that get a whole lotta love are the perfectly toned, gorgeously glossy finishes that look almost edible, from biscuit blondes to chocolatey browns and even sugar almond pastels. And, thanks to tags, consumers can see for themselves precisely the professional brands being used to deliver this deliciousness. Often these are shades that can be applied as a service that doesn’t cost hours or lots of cash. This is the power of the not-so humble toner, and truly its time is now. “Toning should be big news in all salons,” asserts Robert Eaton, UK and Ireland technical director of Wella Professionals and creative director of Russell Eaton salons. “We’ve really focused our education to explore creativity with toners and the technical knowledge that goes alongside it. Everything from instant colour, our colour blowdry service to longer-lasting toners and glossing services. There isn’t much you can’t suggest a toner for.” Indeed, the merits of toners are endless – yet so many salons fail to make the most out of using them. “Toning should play a starring role in any salon,” says Steve Rowbottom, co-director of Westrow salons. “It’s important to educate your clients first and foremost. The biggest misconception we’ve found is clients think toning is for colour correction, rather than a tool for personalisation.” Steve suggests using simple terminology to point out the colouring options during a consultation and explaining how adding a warmer or cooler toner cancels out unwanted tones. “Make it clear what toners are and how they work with your clients’ hair,” he advises.
Clarifying everything on an easy to understand menu opens up the potential for developing conversations and interest from clients, suggests Daniel Rice, colour director at Williams & Rice. They might not be up for a full colour change but might be willing to try a twist on the usual. “Satisfying that curiosity can open fresh opportunities with a wide variety of clients; experimenting with tonal shades can lead to something more complex, with more commitment and a more expensive service. But toners can also be an inexpensive way of introducing colour as a new service to clients.” Redken supports its salons with regular service menu campaigns, each one working hard to deliver beautiful hair that’s perfect for Instagram, driving clients both new and established to try colour and using beauty vocabulary to chime in with conversations that clients are hearing elsewhere. With its Toning Tweakments menu, complete with before and after images, guests are offered four distinct services using its Shades EQ portfolio to deliver a real impact on their hair colour, and in as little as 20 minutes. This means it’s a quick backwash service that can boost the bottom line while illustrating to the client what a big impact toners can have on banishing brass and dullness. “Clients love this!” says Jo Pilbeam from Blend about the Tweakments menu. “They can see exactly how to maintain their beautiful salon colour and keep the shine without damaging the hair. We got a lot of interaction from clients asking what we used to make the colours we share on our Instagram feed and asking questions about Shades EQ. I think of it as a lip gloss for the hair.” Offering salons an enticing menu of quick colour options at an affordable price was a driver behind the No Strings Attached Colour menu from Wella Professionals too, and its new blonde glazing menu, curated by its UK colour trend expert, Zoë Irwin, aims to leave no blonde untoned. “Toning and glossing services are an amazing introduction for colour-averse clients,” says Robert Eaton. “There has been PAINT | 31
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Tоing
massive growth area in this area. The Wella Professionals No Strings Attached Colour menu is perfect for those who want to experiment, as well as colour-shy clients you’ve been trying to win over.”
BESPOKE YOUR BLONDES
Larry King’s Harriet Muldoon, one of the salon brand’s Queens of Colour, sets a very common salon scene. “If you’re a colourist you’ll hear the words: ‘I want to go blonde’ many times a day, but ‘blonde’ has so many meanings,” she says. “It’s all about the tone. I like to use my social media as a portfolio to show all of my favourite shades – butter, vanilla, ash, pearl. Just like make-up, we all love discussing tones, and Instagram is a good tool to use during consultations. And Redken Shades EQ is the ultimate toner range.” As Trevor Sorbie’s Emma Beveridge admits, with balayage in particular, clients are coming into the salon less often, so offering a toning service is a great way to see them more regularly. “At the moment I especially like using the Majirel Glow range from L’Oréal Professionnel, as it has a great selection of pastels and more vivid tones,” she adds.
THE NEW DRIVES THE HUE
Affinage INFINITI Toners
@harrietmuldoon
All this interest in glossing and toning has naturally driven innovation from the colour houses to ensure that colourists have exactly the tools they need to deliver what clients want. Following last year’s launch of Majirel Glow from L’Oréal Professionnel, the brand has also unveiled INOA Glow, a palette of nine shades that run from ashy to mocha that preserve the hair’s natural transparency for luminous results.
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Wella Professionals originally launched its much-loved Illumina Color line a decade ago, and it’s now adding new shades to its portfolio to help expand the tones colourists can offer. ASP has overhauled its whole INFINITI collection, including its toners, to equip salons with every possible high-performing hue. And for those who do like to play with something more experimental, Elumen PLAY from Goldwell has an eraser to clean up hair in a flash so that clients can try something else tonal.
“A lot of our clients think toners are mainly for blonde hair,” says Steve Rowbottom, “but we use them effectively on all hair colours. Redheads and brunettes can really benefit from using them, especially in-between colour appointments,” adding that toners are a great solution for clients looking to return to a more natural hue. Thomas Hills, artistic director and owner of TH1 Hair in Oxted and a Revlon Professional colour educator, uses toning in a variety of ways. “What we call ‘paint colour’ is a trend I see being big this season,” Thomas says. “This isn’t necessarily for every day, but more suited to special occasions or summer festivals. Think unexpected bursts of arty colour and splashes of paint worn against otherwise inconspicuous normcore shades, which are then styled into nondescript or traditionally prim styles.” Thomas believes transparency is key when it comes to building your toner menu. “We’ve found that as trends and techniques evolve, so does the time requirement for each appointment. We don’t want clients to get a shock when paying so we make it obvious at the start.” He advises being upfront with clients about your techniques – how long it will take to achieve their dream look, and how that will impact the end cost. With this in mind, TH1 Hair now has a wider range of colour services on the menu. “Our previous colour service issues – those black to blonde expectations for example – now sit with our ‘creative toning’ section, along with babylights, additional base colours and freehand painting. This means we can offer our clients a more tailored response to their hair needs. It also allows them to understand the colour process more.” Westrow’s Steve Rowbottom adds: “We offer temporary tones via our in-salon Colour Bar Backwash experience. It allows our colour mixologists to create bespoke tones using Revlon Professional Nutri Color Crème [a three-in-one cocktail of colour, care and shine], which are mixed and applied at the backwash. Clients can then take the remainder of the product home to use to keep their colour fresh in-between salon appointments.” Steve is in the process of building this service into the cost of every colour appointment at Westrow: “It will allow us to offer clients a complimentary visit to the salon for a follow-up appointment, to professionally analyse that the
TH1 Hair
TONERS AREN’T JUST FOR BLONDES…
tone is correct, offer maintenance advice or make any alterations if required and leave the salon with a fresh blow-dry.” With such a wide variety of services – not to mention toning products – available to aid clients in their colour quest, it really pays to ensure communication is open. “Discuss all the ways a toning service can help your client,” adds Steve. “From the colour-shy to the colour queens, a menu with options for every level is integral to your salon becoming invaluable in your clients’ quest for colour nirvana.”
HOME IS WHERE THE TONE IS
Of course, all this toning work isn’t exclusive to the salon. Once clients have invested in a toning service there’s a brilliant opportunity to boost the salon’s retail while ensuring their tone lasts that bit longer with after care recommendations. For example, Redken’s Color Extend range not only offers violet-hued Blondage for blondes, but also Graydient to ensure yellow-free tones for silver-haired clients and new Brownlights, which is a blue-toned colour-depositing shampoo and conditioner that keeps the brass away from brunettes, too. For those who like to be a bit more playful, there’s also after care that can be customised in salon using the colour that you’ve applied to your clients. Both evo fab pro and My.Haircare’s Infuse My.Colour can be cocktailed by colourists, while both brands also offer pre-mixed colour intensifying shampoos and conditioners, too. “It’s quite easy to add coloured shampoo to retail because clients know they’re designed to maintain their specific shade, whether it’s Redken’s Brownlights, Blondage or Graydiant shampoos,” says Claire Flack of Wigs & Warpaint. “Once you’ve used the products, you believe in them. You can buy whatever from the high street, but this is prescriptive.” PAINT | 33
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#GLOSSITUP
#@GLROESDSKITEUNP
#GLOSSITUP
#GLO
OWN THE TONE #FSOHRASDILEVSEERQ & GRAY
#GLOSSITUP
O#WSNHTAHDEETSOENQE FOR BLONDES
All rights reserved. 2020
O#WSNHTAHDEETSOENQE FOR BRUNETTES
#GLOSS
#GLOSSITUP
#SHADESEQ
All rights reserved. 2020
WELCOME TO A NEW TONE ZONE OWN THE TONE WITH SHADES EQ & SPECIALIST TONING-CARE Banish brass, dullness and warm tones with Redken’s iconic Shades EQ and expert range of Color Extend, color-depositing, toning-care for blondes, brunettes & gray clients. Own the tone for every shade and create the latest toning techniques your clients are asking for with Redken’s pro-toning products loved by millions of colorists worldwide. Want to join the tone tribe? Find our more on redken.co.uk @REDKEN #SHADESEQ #REDKENREADY
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IN UNISON
CELEBRATING FASHION’S WAY OF BRINGING DIFFERENT CULTURES TOGETHER IS UNITY, CREATED BY THE ASP COLOUR REBELS AND ASP AFFINAGE SALON PROFESSIONAL GLOBAL AMBASSADOR TRACEY DEVINE-SMITH. IT FUSES SOPHISTICATED HAIR COLOURING TECHNIQUES TO ACCENTUATE STYLING AND THE IMAGE IN ITS ENTIRETY PHOTOGRAPHY BY RICHARD MILES PAINT | 37
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HAIR The ASP Colour Rebels and ASP Affinage Salon Professional global ambassador Tracey Devine-Smith. STYLING Magdelena Jacobs. MAKE-UP Lucy Flower and Egle Bakaite. PRODUCTS ASP Affinage Salon Professional.
SOCIAL GATHERING
@heffyx
BUILDING YOUR ONLINE FOLLOWING TAKES A LOT MORE THAN JUST POSTING PICTURES OF YOUR WORK. IT’S TIME TO MAXIMISE YOUR DIGITAL POTENTIAL. THANKS TO EXCITING INTERACTIVE FEATURES SUCH AS LIVE STREAMS AND POLLS, AS WELL AS THE RISE OF NEW APPS LIKE TIKTOK, NOW IS THE PERFECT TIME TO MAXIMISE YOUR CHANNELS AND ENGAGE WITH COLOURISTS (AND CLIENTS) ON A WHOLE NEW LEVEL
IGNORE THE POWER of social media at your peril. Sharing your incredible colour work has become vital in order to boost your online following and expand your business. Juggling the ins and outs of algorithms and how to translate likes into actual client relationships is a constant learning curve… not to mention that a static image often fails to translate the extent of work required. Uploading examples of eyecatching looks or dramatic transformations will certainly see high engagement, but it can also make managing client expectations and knowledge of colour maintenance that little bit harder to negotiate. Social media has been proven to reach new and existing clients in ways that were previously impossible. Whether you’re active on Instagram daily or prefer to post sporadically across social media, we work in an age where you simply can’t afford to ignore it. “As businesses we need to be using social media to our advantage,” says 2019 NHBF Best Social Media Award winner, Heff y Wheeler of HX Hair. “Although it can often feel like a ball and chain – constantly having to think about the content, factoring in the time it takes to post and the planning involved.”
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@craigsworldofhair
Social media is instantly reactive, giving colourists the opportunity to share their work or news in real time. This is perfect for showcasing the latest trends, techniques and tutorials, or updates and launches within the salon. More and more colourists are turning to Instagram TV (IGTV) or YouTube to showcase their colour creations or hair transformations to both professionals and consumers. “I’ve always had a policy to share everything,” explains socially-savvy hairdresser Craig Purves. “Whether it’s educational content for hair professionals or top tips for your clients, my biggest piece of advice is to be authentic.” Most people find a medium that chimes with what they’re trying to communicate. Craig adds: “Put yourself out there in whatever way you feel comfortable with. Create content that you feel proud to share and enjoy making, then others will feel the same about it.” In the age of algorithms, advertising and everything in between, it can be hard to gauge genuine engagement across channels, but for Craig it is often his video content on Instagram which performs well. He shared that his mini tutorials and longer IGTV ‘process’ videos receive the most views. “I’ve always known education is an integral part of our industry, but the ability to react swiftly via my channels by sharing knowledge is so fantastic,” he concludes.
@thecolourbarwirral
PRESS PLAY
We’re always looking to change and improve our social media channels. There’s no right or wrong, it’s just trying different things to see what works. At the moment we find asking questions or creating a poll encourages followers to interact and engage more with our work BECKY SMITH
THE COLOUR BAR, WIRRAL PAINT | 43
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Digi Educa о
Samantha Cusick London has recently launched a weekly series on Instagram Stories to give followers the opportunity to send in questions for the team to answer. “Social media now plays such an instrumental role in our industry and it can be utilised in so many ways to help build your business. When it comes to using my own channels, I approach it in the way that I like to use Instagram myself, as a consumer,” says founder Samantha. “I like to follow companies and influencers that give honest and credible advice, so that is exactly what I aim to offer.” Discussing product recommendations or retail up-selling during appointments doesn’t come naturally to everyone, but hosting these regular question and answer sessions online helps to break down that barrier when it comes to aftercare. “It’s about making genuine product recommendations to them that I know work, rather than just appearing to endorse them at the end of an appointment for a quick financial gain. Imagine how refreshing it would be if your clients already knew they needed sulphate-free shampoos,” she adds. Using the voting or poll features on Instagram also works as an effective way to boost engagement by requesting responses from followers. It gives vital insight for creating future content or can build excitement, such as sharing ‘sneak peeks’ of transformations. Wella Professionals Passionista Thomas Frear has experimented with the wide variety of tools that are available to see what prompts engagement with his followers. “I try and utilise every tool on Instagram – the more interactive something is, the more I find people react and follow what you’re doing,” he explains.
@be.ironbridge
@heffy
@samanthacusicklondon
QUESTION EVERYTHING
STAY ONE STEP AHEAD
While the established social apps are going nowhere, when it comes to building an online identity it’s important to stay aware of new launches which will take your networking and brand building one step further. With more than 60,000 followers on TikTok and more than 900,000 likes across her posts, OSMO ambassador Heffy has been using the trending app to share her colour creations and transformations. “TikTok is a huge video platform that has slipped under the radar of our industry for some reason, despite having over one billion users worldwide. The short video app is ideal for creatives to express themselves and their work.” The best part about it? It’s so much fun to use! “With users all over the world, it’s gives hairdressers freedom to create and play without just creating content to appeal to clients for column bookings. It puts some of the fun back into social media,” Heffy adds.
When I post on Instagram I often give insights into what formulas I have used, which is so important. I love to see what other colour ranges can do too on other people’s threads. It’s always about learning; what I share encourages clients to ask questions, such as what methods have been used to achieve the look BROOKE EVANS BE IRONBRIDGE
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@tombadgerhair
THOMAS BADGER
WELLA PROFESSIONALS PASSIONISTA
@thomasfrearhair
Videos are one of the best ways to educate clients online because they’re more engaging than detailed paragraphs telling you the process. I love posting formula breakdowns to Stories or IGTV. Still photos are great, and are needed when it comes to educating, but I think the post needs to be short and sweet if you want people to take the information in
ALWAYS ENGAGE
“Engage, engage, ENGAGE,” urges Wella Professionals Passionista Thomas Badger. “Get your followers talking – ask them questions and get them to ask you questions. Ask for client selfies, tag them in your posts, ask them to tag you. Sharing is caring and it’s the way forward for social.” Instagram’s algorithms are notoriously finicky, but for real numbers you need to remember that this mythical engagement is a twoway street. Rather than just sitting and waiting for people to discover you, Thomas recommends reaching out to bridge the gap – liking, commenting on and reacting to other people’s content. “The more your online presence is engaged, the more people will start to come across your online account. It will rapidly grow your following and client base,” Thomas adds. Likewise, if you want to build your engagement with clients online then you have to build a rapport. “People want to feel part of a community, so I always aim to respond to every message or comment. Nobody wants to be left hanging, and by replying it shows that you care about the client and are passionate about the industry,” explains Samantha Marais of the Schwarzkopf Professional Collective. Using Instagram for business purposes requires a different approach to that of your personal account. It’s a free platform that can bring so many eyes to your salon and skills, but if you fail to engage with it properly then you’re just another square to be scrolled past. Luckily there are numerous educational courses available, from brands and experts alike, all geared towards how to fully utilise Instagram as a platform to get you seen. The likes of Wella Professionals’ Activate Your Digital Business and Redken’s Strictly Social courses, or more general digital business skill providers such as Hubspot Academy, can provide you with all the building blocks you need. If you’re completely perplexed by the digital scene then these courses can give you the grounding you need to create an structure to your online work, understand the algorithmic intricacies, and make sure all eyes are on you. Happy snapping! PAINT | 45
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b t n i a P ucts to d o r p d n a s e h c The latest launents of your colour kit boost the cont
Shine a light on your creativity with four metallic shades of Elumen Play. Mix and match to create your perfect hue, or add the two new Grey Elumen formulas to add a cool edge to any look. goldwell.co.uk
Blank Canvas from Pulp Riot removes semipermanent and direct dyes without compromise; it has a creamy consistency for drip-free application for foil, isolated and freehand areas, while the white formula allows you to check on the colour lift while it processes. salonsdirect.com
Create soothing shades with the new Violets and Blues from Paul Mitchell Professional Hair Color’s popular The Demi, from cool blondes to blue-blacks. salon-success.co.uk
“New INOA Glow will allow my clients to experiment with tone and have the most ultra-cool, luminous hair!” Sarah Black, Linton & Mac PAINTER and The It List It Girl 2019
Get serious lifting power and neutralisation with new shades from Revlon Professional Revlonissimo Colorsmetique, which can take very dark shades lighter in just one step without warm undertones. revlonprofessional.co.uk
Luminous, reflective hair that looks naturally perfected – it has to be the L’Oréal Professionnel INOA Glow collection, a palette of nine shades for incredible light reflection. lorealprofessionnel.co.uk
Cool blondes get an upgrade thanks to the four new shades from Illumina Color by Wella Professionals, and there’s a new blonde glazing menu by UK colour trend expert, Zoë Irwin. wella.co.uk
From JOICO brand ambassador Larisa Love comes the new Color Intensity Love Aura collection – Hot Kiss, Mauve Amour, Passion Berry, Peri-Wink or True Lav? Decisions, decisions... joico.eu
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Paint a rainbow everyday with the new CHROMA ID semi-permanent line up from Schwarzkopf Professional. schwarzkopfpro.com New to Schwarzkopf Professional’s colour brand tbh – true beautiful honest – come five fresh shades for its Natural Beige and Natural Chocolate collections. schwarzkopfpro. com
Protect your Guy Tang #MyDentity colour work with new #MyConfidant shampoo and conditioner, which prolongs colour tone and vibrancy for up to 50 washes. salon-success.co.uk
Cut down on colour waste by downloading Vish, where you can add all the details of the colour products you use, and use a Bluetooth scale to always weigh out the right amount of colour. getvish.com
Neutralise and nurture yellow and brassy tones with Great Lengths Silver Shine Shampoo, boasting Keraphlex to improve and protect hair structure and help repair existing damage. greatlengthshair.co.uk
Want to reduce damage while creating bright blondes? Try new Enlightener Freehand Bond-Strengthening Lightener from Aveda. aveda.co.uk
After years in development, ASP Affinage Salon Professional has launched the new and updated INFINITI colour range, with 139 shades, colour additives, toners and colour highlighting. The line-up contains 92 per cent naturally derived ingredients and includes new shades, b:BROWN. asphair.com
Inspired by cool earthy tones, Smoked Cedar and Driftwood shades join the Shades EQ Gloss Matte family. redken.co.uk
A 100 per cent vegan hair colour, Color Wear by ALFAPARF Milano offers 46 shades and its new tube packaging will be produced using 100 per cent post-industrial recycled aluminium, reducing CO2 emissions by 20 per cent. xperthair.ie
Want something bright and bold for summer? There are 10 intense direct dyes (and a clear) in the line-up from staino by evo fab pro to experiment with. evohair.com
There are eight new Cool Inforced shades now in the Majirel line-up from L’Oréal Professionnel – there’s a new pack, a new cap, but the same adored formula. lorealprofessionnel.co.uk PAINT | 47
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l h c s t Ar
courses. n o ti a c u d e se e th h it w e It’s playtime all the tim member an apple for teacher... Re
ASP Affinage Salon Professional
evo
Advanced Creative Colouring This one-day workshop at the ASP Academy with ASP global ambassador Tracey DevineSmith is full of inspiration. Watch Tracey’s advanced colouring skills and incredible creativity in this practical, hands-on session. 20 April, Romsey 01794 527 111, asphair.com
Creative Placement 2.0 – Fundamental Staino Techniques This colour technique class will take you on a journey to awaken your inner genius from its slumber, so you can slay commercial techniques on the salon floor. October 11, The Kings Canary, London education@evohair.com, evohaireducation.eventbrite.com
ALFAPARF Milano
Fudge Professional
Seamless Colour This full-day course is designed to create seamless blends and colour combinations, with a focus on high-fashion melts with Revolution and Neon tones, balayage with a twist and creative shine bands. With Mel McNeill, Xpert Professional’s Technician of the Year 2019, and Ben Close from Benjamin Close Hairdressing. 9 March, Bangor, Northern Ireland academy@xperthair.ie, xpertpro.ie
Aveda
Air Touch Atelier This exclusive Vladimir Sarbashev event will teach UK colourists his famous Air Touch technique, which uses air from a hair dryer, rather than backcombing, when balayage colouring to create a seamless blend of colour that grows out beautifully. 31 March, Aveda London Academy 0370 428 6382, bstace@aveda.co.uk
Headpaint Colour Essentials Hair structure, the colour wheel, peroxide choice, delivering target shades, formulating and colour correction… find out all this and more to boost your confidence in the brand’s colour ranges. 29 April, Alan Howard Chester 01706 644803, alanhoward.co.uk
Goldwell
Color Lab For senior colourists, learn to express your vision in personalised colour and formula concepts. This is about perfecting your colour signature to create a truly memorable statement. 4 April, London 020 3540 1200, goldwell.co.uk/education
JOICO
JoiColor Specialist Become a master in JoiColor on this five-day programme, designed to develop your expertise and knowledge on
the brand’s system. Grow your understanding of the science behind hair structure and the effects of colour on the hair, giving you the ability to perfect each and every colour for every client. 7-9 September and 5-6 October, Laceys Studio, Reading 0118 930 2338, laceysltd.co.uk
L’Oréal Professionnel
Balayage Benefits Siobhan Jones, founder of the stunning Rose + Wild and colourist to Little Mix, shares five new balayage techniques to widen your skill set and tips on creating seamless blending. Book and your Instagram will thank you for it... 31 March, London Academy coursesuk@loreal.com, lorealaccess.com/uk
milk_shake
Super Balayage Andrew Smith delivers his signature course to empower colourists with knowledge and confidence to take balayage skills to the next level, leaving you to create unique, bespoke blends. 6 April, Phoenix Hair & Beauty, Cambridgeshire 01392 365 177, milkshakehaircare.co.uk
Paul Mitchell
Perfect Canvas Creating the perfect base for muted metallics, brights and pastels is essential. This hands-on class will help guide you through the fundamentals and
chemistry of Blonding with Paul Mitchell Professional Hair Color. 6 July, Aylesbury 0845 659 0011, salon-success.co.uk/education
Pulp Riot
Total Colour This look and learn course is a great introduction of the ’Grammable brand, covering the full Pulp Riot portfolio, including both vivids and permanent colour. It will challenge your thought process to give you a new perspective on colour. 24 March, Alan Howard Leeds 0113 270 0010, alanhoward.co.uk
Redken
Color Obsessed Understand the principles behind natural pigments, the colour wheel, neutralisation and the effects of colour on hair. This is a confidence boost for colourists looking to create perfect results. 5 May, Manchester coursesuk@loreal.com, lorealaccess.com/uk
Revlon Professional
Bespoke Colour Discover how to maximise your colour business with Thomas Hills. Whether you’re a great colourist, stylist or salon owner, this will uncover the elements needed to evolve your colour operation. 26 May, Westrow Academy Leeds 020 7391 7440, revlonprofessional.com
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Master of Colour This 11-day course is the highest standard in the brand’s colour education, immersing you in the IGORA Royal system. From philosophy and selection of shades through to advanced application and the latest creative techniques, you’ll get coaching and hands-on experience in all aspects of colour education. Begins 30 March, Manchester 01442 278 000, askacademy.co.uk
TIGI
Freehand Painting In this intermediate course, colourists will gain a deeper understanding of classic freehand painting, its application and its effects and learn how to tailor balayage techniques to create consumer-friendly results. 1 July, TIGI Academy London 020 7228 4815, tigiprofessional.com/education
Wella Professionals
Colour Craft Correction Banish those colour bands and more! This two-day course combines theory with hands-on workshops to change the way you look at colour correction forever. Learn what questions to ask and how to develop a long-term journey for your client. 3-4 June, Manchester 0161 834 2645, education.wella.com
Wella TrendVision Award 2019 UK & Ireland Award
Goldwell Couture Collection INTREPID
Schwarzkopf Professional
STARMAKERS
This is where you can make those dreams come true. Are you ready? The Coterie
WHERE London/regional pop-ups This fashion-focused networking club offers a unique opportunity to mix with your peers and hear from the biggest names in hairdressing, fashion and beyond. creativeheadmag.com/store
L’Oréal Colour Trophy
WHEN Regional Semi-Finals start 25 March. Grand Final is 1 June WHERE Nationwide. The Grand Final is at Battersea Evolution The longest running colour competition is celebrating its 65th anniversary, so 2020 is going to be big for the winners across the categories – the prize includes a shoot in New York City! Look out too for the new L’Oréal Colour Trophy College Award. lorealcolourtrophy.com
Redken Symposium On Tour
WHEN 17 to 19 May WHERE Milan Redken takes a vacation from its Las Vegas home for Symposium and jets to Italy, where classes include Color your World, featuring techniques and inspiration from the streets of NYC to the Quadrilatero della moda in Milan. uk.lorealaccess.com
Wella TrendVision Award
WHEN: Regional Heats early June; UK & Ireland Final 28 September WHERE Nationwide; UK & Ireland Final is at The Roundhouse, London Hold onto your hats, the Wella TrendVision Award is boasting a serious makeover! New categories include Colour Specialist and Craft Artist, and all entries need to be uploaded to Instagram. And
there are more places to grab at the Regional Heats – what’s stopping you? Photographic entries must be tagged with @WellaHairUK by 9 April, with results revealed on 27 April. wella.co.uk/trendvision
Goldwell Global Creative Awards
WHEN UK final is July, Global final 11 to 12 October WHERE UK final is in London, Global final will be Amsterdam Replacing the Color Zoom competition, these new awards have fresh Editorial Categories, new Technical Categories and no trend directions to follow, so your colour creativity can go ballistic. Global Gold winners will receive a coveted International Gold Trophy, worldwide press and editorial coverage, a cash prize of about £2,000 for the Editorial Categories, and participation in a future Goldwell photo shoot for the Technical Categories. Deadline for entries is 31 May, and the UK winners will be revealed in true Goldwell style in July. They go on to compete globally in Amsterdam in October at the Kao Salon Global Experience. globalcreativeawards.com
Most Wanted and The It List Awards
WHEN 7 September WHERE London The very best of British and Irish hairdressing will be competing for the hottest trophies in town. Keep an eye on the Most Wanted Colour Expert category – who will wear the colour crown next? creativeheadmag.com/mostwanted
2020
2020
Get your Most Wanted Colour Expert Award entry in by 13 May
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IS BALAYAGE BREAKING YOUR BUSINESS?
OPINION
Training at Alan D
Edward Hemmings
IT’S THE FREEHAND COLOUR SERVICE THAT CLIENTS (AND THEIR INSTAGRAM ACCOUNTS) ADORE, BUT EDWARD HEMMINGS, CREATIVE DIRECTOR AT EDUCATION PROVIDER ALAN D, IS ADAMANT BALAYAGE IS BAD FOR A SALON’S LONG-TERM BUSINESS Is balayage ruining business? In my opinion, and that of many of the employers we train for, it is. The technique began in France in the ’90s but the colour was brought close to the roots. The Californian honey blonde with sun-blasted roots look is now the fashion, and has become softer and more natural as hair itself has been left longer. There are various techniques and methods, but all of them actively increase time between visits to the salon by creating soft blending points between root and lengths as opposed to root colouring and highlights, which need more regular maintenance. Yes, in certain circumstances, roots need to be filled, but with those gentle blends your clients can wait an extra week or two (or even a month) or, even worse, grab a box off the shelf to brighten it up. Am I saying this alone is ruining our businesses? No, but together with the trend for long, one-length hair, we are not seeing our clients as regularly as we should. Until we start cutting hair shorter again and giving clients an excuse to return every six weeks or less, how do we expect to grow our businesses? Supermarkets offer every type of product, electrical item and wet line, many with the same labels as can be seen in our salons. They offer clients the tools to make to make our work look amazing for longer – but what they cannot offer is a haircut. To make the change, I believe we need to start by looking at ourselves. Do we project the right image? It will only take a couple of team members to have that shorter bob and, with the power of social media, all of your clients will get to see it. I recently had the good fortune to judge the Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa junior competition and it was refreshing to see shorter haircuts and more graphic colours, still with a commercial and feminine feel. That change has started internally. Keep doing balayage because let’s face it, it looks so beautiful. But to make money we need our clients in our chair every six weeks! Short grad bob with ombre anyone?
Have you got an opinion to share? Let us know @creativeheadmag and we’ll start a conversation 50 | PAINT
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EDINBURGH MONDAY 16 MARCH, 7-10PM, DOVECOT STUDIOS
#SydSquad
Syd Hayes
Paul a McCash Sam Burnett
INDEPENDENTLY AWESOME BUT TOGETHER THEY ARE A SUPER SQUAD OF SESSION STYLING GENIUSES
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MODEL TEAM Pamela McCallum
CALVIN KLEIN, CÉLINE, RALPH LAUREN, COOL COLLABORATIONS ARE DAILY OCCURRENCES AT SCOTLAND’S LONGEST ESTABLISHED FASHION MODEL AGENCY…
Connor Reilly
TICKETS £25 � FIVE FOR £100 � CLUB MEMBERS PAY £15
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