Pontives We discovered the bouldering area “Pontives” in spring 2010. After scouting out the area for quite a while, we started brushing the first boulders. The first boulder was a nice traverse, Traversade 7b, and we realized right from the beginning, that it was going to be hard work to clean the problems since the boulders are covered by quite a lot of moss. Nevertheless we were all motivated and so the first sector came slowly into being. Unfortunately a few problems are defined, since we thought it’s more fun to climb them like that. It’s all just a game, but respect that please…=) At the moment there are only around 30 problems that have been cleaned and climbed, but there are a lot of boulders still to be cleaned and at the end of 2010 we found two whole new sectores with lots of boulders. Most of us haven’t got a lot of experience in grading boulder problems, but despite that, we decided to grade them for giving an orientation. If you think the grades aren’t correct, please tell us, we would be grateful for that. For more Infos contact me: info@rudimoroder.it Martin Dejori, Alex Walpoth, Michael Piccolruaz, Rudi Moroder
Rudi Moroder on Footage, 7b+
Access:
Pontives is in South Tyrol, Italy. Regardless of whether you come from Bolzano or Brennero you have to drive in direction of Val Gardena/Gröden. You can reach the valley by taking the exit of either Ponte Gardena/Waidbruck or Chiusa/Klausen. About one and a half kilometers before the Val Gardena/Gröden begins there is a roundabout with 3 directions: Val Gardena/Gröden, Chiusa/Klausen and Ponte Gardena/Weidbruck. You choose the direction of Chiusa/Klausen. After about 100 meters you have to turn to the right where you can see the Hotel “Pontives”. Instead of driving to the hotel on the right, you take a small street that goes uphill. After about 150 meters, and three curves, you can see a small shack on the left. If the space near the shack is vacant you can park there, otherwise you can park in the bend ten meters before. The only boulder of Sector Street is after the shack. For the Sector Hope you take the small path that starts near the shack and goes uphill. At the border of the wood there are the first boulders. Topo:
Period: In Pontives it is possible to boulder from March till the end of October, whereby in autumn it may already be pretty cold. In spring it depends on how fast the snow melts, which is different every year. The best period for bouldering in Pontives is in summer, where it’s possible to climb in the sun and in the shadow. After long raining periods most problems dry pretty quickly and it should be possible to climb on them one or two days after rainfall. The area: The rock is a porphyry and pretty compact. Most of the boulder problems are slabby with crimps and slopers, which sometimes consume quite a lot of skin. The landings are mostly good ones and the biggest boulders are about 6 meters high. You will find a name on every boulder problem and the two startholds are, except for the newest problems, marked by two yellow points. For a few problems we have defined a few things, for example just to take the edge at the end of the boulder, and we considered this when we gave the grades. You are of course allowed to start from where you like and to take every grip you want, but then don’t consider the grades we gave to the problems. The defined things are all written in the guidebook. The wood is not of our property. Please respect that and don‘t leave your mess in the wood or make a fire. The boulders we recommend: Mago 6a Natural Blonde 6a+ We love Sasha 7a+ High five 7a+ Traversade 7b
Sector Street
Boulder 1
Boulder 1 1) Pay attention 2) Streetstyle 3) Pain
5c 7b 7b
Sector Hope Boulder 1
Boulder 2
Boulder 1 1) Traversade
7b
2) Gossip girls
7a+
mantle at the end of the edge
Boulder 2 1) Geil hoch zwei sds
Boulder 3
Boulder 3 1) Hommer 2) Teppich traverse on the slab, same finish as nr. 3
3) Dr. Stock sds
Boulder 4
7a
5a 5c 7c
Boulder 4 1) Lelelendrada 2) Projekt
6b ?
Boulder 4
Boulder 4 1) Lo scivolo rincoglionito sds
Boulder 5
Boulder 6
7b
Boulder 5 1) Cèüse 2010 sds
2) Harry Popper sds
6a+ 7a
Boulder 6 1) Zum Aufwärmen die Plott 2) Big Mc
ignore the good hold on the left
Boulder 7
Boulder 7 1) Fightclub
sds; without the arete on the right
Boulder 7
6a 7b+
7b+
Boulder 7 1) Deja-vu 2) Footage
sds; with the edge just at the end
5b 7b+
Boulder 8
Boulder 8 1) Mago 2) We love Sasha 3) High Voltage 4) Project
sds; without the arete and the holds on it
Boulder 8
Boulder 8 1) Natural blond 2) I believe I can fly
Boulder 9
6a+ 7a+
Boulder 9 1) High five
follow the edge and mantle before the corner
Boulder 9
6a 7a+ 6b ?
7a+
Boulder 9 2) Homo horizontalis 3) Homo verticalis 4) Jetzt isch fertig sds
7a 7a+ 7b