EASY ALPINISM in TRENTINO-SOUTH TYROL vol.2

DIEGO FILIPPI - FABRIZIO RATTIN

EASY ALPINISM

in TRENTINO-SOUTH TYROL

NORMAL ROUTES and ARÊTES VOL. 2 - Eastern valleys

First edition August 2023

ISBN 978 88 55470 971

Copyright © 2023 VERSANTE SUD – Milano, via Rosso di San Secondo, 1. Ph. +39 02 7490163 www.versantesud.it

All translation, reproduction, adaptation and electronic registration, either totally or partially, by any methods, are rights reserved for all countries.

Cover image Steffi and Daniel Rogger. © Daniel Rogger

Text Diego Filippi and Fabrizio Rattin

English translation Alexandra Ercolani

Photos Diego FIlippi and Fabrizio Rattin

Maps Tommaso Bacciocchi. © Mapbox, © Open Street Map

Symbols Tommaso Bacciocchi

Layout Silvia Ruju

Printing Tipolitografia Pagani – Passirano (BS), Italy

ZERO miles

This guidebook is homegrown and locally produced ZERO miles!

This is a “zero-miles” guidebook. It’s locally produced!

It has been compiled by local authors, who live and promote trekking in the area reviewed.

Trekkers benefit from local authors: – locals know the latest news and updates – locals don’t promote only the most “commercial” tours – locals invest the revenues from the guidebook in exploring new itineraries

Local authors promote and respect their area:

they review with a local attention to the territory – they pay attention in the same way to any different tours

they meaningfully interact with local actors

Note

Trekking is a potentially dangerous sport in which participation is entirely at your own risk.

All the information in this guide has been updated based upon information at the time of publication, however it is vital to evaluate every situation yourself before placing yourself in a life threatening situation or to seek the advice of experienced and qualified individuals.

DIEGO FILIPPI - FABRIZIO RATTIN

NORMAL ROUTES AND ARÊTES

VOLUME 2 - Eastern Valleys

TYROL

Val di Fassa. Dove sei di casa

Where you feel at home

DOLOMITES TREK-KING

Top Experience: 30 hours of walking over 75 km

WALKING FROM ONE HUT TO THE NEXT IN THE DOLOMITI DI FASSA

How difficult is it to define beauty? We say that something is beautiful when it moves us. Because beauty is something that occurs, it suddenly invades us and envelops us with happiness. Why it happens, however, remains a mystery.

Wo du zu Hause bist fassa.com

The Dolomiti are a mystery. Their beauty is a secret that needs to be experienced. We know that once there was a sea there, that they are layered with colours and that they have fragile, sharp and legendary shapes. However, the Dolomiti are something you need to smell, touch and cross.

THE KING OF TREKKING IN VAL DI FASSA

The Dolomiti Trek King is a 30-hour long walking experience on 75 km of hiking trails. From one mountain hut to the next, through crests, forests and legends, they will enable you to enter inside the heart of a secret. Marmolada, Rosengarten, Sassolungo, Sassopiatto and Sella are secrets accessible to everyone, from sunrise to sunset. Depending on the days you have, each tour has its own wonderful side.

Want to meet King Laurin and the beautiful Conturina in the secret light of a dazzling Enrosadira? Choose the formula and start walking. Any stop can also be covered separately from the entire itinerary and from any point you can go downstream with facilities, shuttle services or local public transport.

Dolomiti Trek King –The Original

CANAZEI, POZZA DI FASSA

duration: 30:00 h distance: 75.8 km

ascent: 3517 m difficulty: media

1 STAGE: Pozza di Fassa > Contrin Refuge

2 STAGE: Contrin Refuge > Fedaia Pass

3 STAGE: Fedaia Pass > Col Rodella

4 STAGE: Col Rodella > Antermoia Refuge

5 STAGE: Antermoia Refuge > Gardeccia

6 STAGE: Gardeccia > Costalunga Pass

Dolomiti Trek King –Short Experience

CANAZEI, POZZA DI FASSA

duration: 21:30 h distance: 51 km

ascent: 3050 m difficulty: media

1 STAGE: Canazei > Fedaia Pass

2 STAGE: Fedaia Pass > Contrin Refuge

3 STAGE: Contrin Refuge > Buffaure

4 STAGE: Buffaure > Pozza di Fassa

Dolomiti Trek King –Autumn taste

VIGO DI FASSA

duration: 16:00 h distance: 39.1 km

ascent: 2414 m difficulty: media

1 STAGE: Ciampedìe > Antermoia Refuge

2 STAGE: Antermoia Refuge > Sassopiatto Refuge

3 STAGE: Sassopiatto and Sassolungo tour

Strèda Roma, 36 - 38032 Canazei (Trentino - Italia) Tel +39 0462 609600

infobooking@fassa.com

Along the normal route of Sass Maòr (© Anna Sperandio)

CURIOUS BY NATURE

We venture out into nature to reconnect with ourselves and change our perspective to look at things differently than before.

TRIOLET 32+5

THE ICONIC MOUNTAINEERING BACKPACK

The Triolet 32+5 is a light and versatile mountaineering backpack, thanks to the various removable elements that allow you to modulate its weight and volume to adapt it to different activities.

Presentation

by Mario Corradini

In the presentation of this volume dedicated to the western part of Trentino-South Tyrol I mentioned the beauty and diversity of the mountains which make up this Italian region of northern Italy. But it was inevitable to emphasize the Brenta Dolomites, the group further west of all the dolomites. Not that the other mountains are of any less interest. Each relief has its important attractions. Varying difficulties to climb, but every step taken on these mountains – be it grass, rock, snow or ice – greatly repays the effort made. In this guide book dedicated to the eastern part, due to the large diversity of the mountains both geologically and structurally, with a large part being in the dolomites, all the way to the Piccole Dolomiti which include Pasubio and Carega, it becomes difficult to focus one’s attention on one single group. There are too many mountains that due to their appearance and history deserve to be remembered.

I relive the beautiful emotions experienced during the countless ascents on the dolomite groups described in this volume. I remember many climbs, even solo, on the light coloured and solid rock and the long moments spent on rarely climbed peaks. I see the views and I feel the apprehension in seeing thunderstorms roll in, or moments when I was quickly reached by fog. I remember when I was on my own and observed, a bit worried, the sea of clouds under my feet which started to rise while on the horizon other peaks popped out like in the “isole nelle nuvole” (1) (islands in the clouds). Among all the mountain groups described in this guide book, I would like to spend more praise to the Latemàr group. A dolomite group which sometimes wrongly so is defined as the “younger brother of the Dolomites”, especially for its loose rock. I wrote this piece and others praising the Latemàr group in the guide book: “unappreciated beauty, observed and almost never caressed, more for false fear, incarnated in the hasty feedback of your particular nature: unstable, changeable, harsh, secret. This is your identity which makes it impossible to feel empathy and at the same time has kept your character unchanged, protecting not only the exterior appearance, the more obvious part, but keeping its hidden corners intact, your heart…We have tried to stimulate those who climb you to a more careful contemplation. To not judge you for what at first glance appears but for your shape which glorifies, here more than elsewhere, the triumph of the unexpected attraction and chaos.”

I give credit to the authors for this guidebook, where they have been able to summarize the technical part above all. I repeat, not an easy feat, and considering the result all I can do is congratulate them. Years ago, I too gave in to the desire of letting people know about my experiences across guide books and written articles on specialised magazines. I received recognition and satisfaction also in this way. But this was not the purpose, indeed far from it..

I am aware that even through these books frequentation of these mountains will increase and consequently contribute in part to their degradation (see the questionable behaviour which can increasingly be found). Writing a guide book is nonetheless an act of love towards these areas. It means, personally, to share one’s joys and offer the same opportunity to the readers.

Due to the effort entailed in writing, and the information and the quality of the data reported in this volume, I am sure that what you will read on these pages are not simply sterile technical notes which can be used to reach a summit, but you will be able to derive the sensibility and respect that the authors manifest towards mountains in general.

(1) One of the first books I wrote dedicated to the mountains in Trentino.

Mario Corradini http://www.cliv.it/Mcorr.htm

Col di Luna (© Fabrizio Rattin)

Introduction by Fabrizio Rattin

Authentic passion, dedication, synergy of intent, true friendship, explorative and geographic curiosity are all adjectives which outline the supporting pillars of this work. A detailed job, with great attention to detail, which has taken years of never ending collection of information and describing ascents, all carried out personally by at least one of the two authors, this is a significant added value. Every page is an unforgettable memory of beautiful days spent in the mountains, the true mountain, in a nofrills way, the way of the normal routes: an environment which I have learned to appreciate deeply. No ambitious aspirations for us, simply the enjoyment and satisfaction of giving passionate mountain goers a guide which has a soul, the soul of the territory in which we live, an amazing and complete region that we are proud to be able to give homage to. One of our main objectives is to create a geographical culture of the Trentino-South Tyrol region and its surrounding areas, making it possible to discover one by one the 43 mountain groups which make up this entire area in a detailed way.

The peaks climbed describe the incredible environmental and technical variety, passing from the high summits of the mountain chain which lie at the frontier with its shiny glaciers, to the Prealpine area over Lake Garda or even monte Grappa with a mild climate which is ideal for the colder periods, to then continue with the incredible Dolomite area, unique in the world for its geomorphology and for the beauty of its mountains. I would like to give Diego my heartfelt thanks, for asking me to help him in this idea and for having given me the opportunity to see such a great project develop with its energy, sharing thoughts, way of working, planning new ascents in the most hidden and fascinating corners of the region. Its meticulous precision, both in his organizational skills and in his writing, his availability and humility in patiently sharing and teaching, have been for me true lessons of life.

This guide book describes a wide range of peaks with difficulties which vary from hiking to easy mountaineering. 43 mountain groups are taken into consideration, where over 500 peaks are carefully described. The Trentino-South Tyrol region is clearly divided into two parts from the long Valle dell’ Adige and from Passo del Brennero. The two parts, East and West, are almost equivalent in terms of surface area and mountain groups. Roughly 250 peaks are described in this area and as many for the eastern area. Each mountain group is carefully examined supplying a general description, the topographical borders and the geographical structure. Furthermore, a detailed map makes it easy to figure out the road access and the quick location of the peaks described. Each itinerary is described with text, action and panoramic photos of the mountain with its ascent route.

WEST AREA - Volume 1

1. Sesvenna

2. Venoste and Passirie Alps

3. Tessa Group 4. Breonie di Ponente Stubaier Alp

5. The Sarentino Mountains

6. Ortles Group

7. Sobretta - Gavia Group

8. Cevedale Group

9. Maddalene Chain

10. Mendola Chain

11. Adamello Group

12. Presanella Group

13. Brenta Dolomites

14.

Group

Group

SOSAT Patronage

by Luciano Ferrari*

It is with great satisfaction and pride that I have taken part in producing this new guide book written by Diego and Fabrizio, both personally and as president of the SOSAT which I represent. I have shared many special moments with Diego in the mountains and have therefore had the pleasure of getting to know the strength and tenacity that distinguishes him, ever since he took part in those first climbing courses during the eighties at the Giorgio Graffer school. Not only then, but even when he became a member of the Academic Alpine Club and a mountain guide.

The “Normal routes and Ridges” present in this guide book are a testimony in which the central theme continuously weaves together passion and love for one’s land just like a karst river which constantly pops up to daylight and becomes inspiration and hope. In this sense one can understand the authentic meaning of words such as “believe in it”, “never give up”, words which lead back to the battle of a lifetime and which we find, albeit in a more symbolic sense, even when climbing. And it represents, ultimately, the essence.

They say that for the people of the high lands mountains are a collective heritage, deeply felt as a shared value and identity. A common feeling which was among the foundations, ever since the establishment in 1921 of the SOSAT (workers section of the Alpine Society of Trento) giving birth to popular hiking, considering the mountains heritage for everybody and even having a social role with great significance which is still current, with coherence and loyalty in one’s fundamental values. This guide book does not only give information on the excursion. Deep knowledge and love for the territory accompany this information, matured over the years bringing Diego and Fabrizio after various top level climbs, to change their concept of experiencing the mountains. A path which has led them to climb up the normal routes and ridges of the mountain groups of the Eastern valleys, sustained by values appreciated by mountain people.

Now Diego and Fabrizio, mountaineering expert, mountain rescuer on helicopters and AINEVA responsible , have translated and made available this extraordinary world to anyone, a world in which you learn to admire the beauties of the universe, the power of the elements, the mystery of the divine law which rules over the wind, the rivers and the glaciers, the mystery of life which multiplies in Heaven and Earth along the valleys and the forests”. Happy reading.

* President of SOSAT (Sezione Operaia della SAT)

Sass de Mura (© Fabrizio Rattin) 

SYMBOLOGY AND TECHNICAL INTRODUCTION

Indicates the overall difficulty of the excursion. See key of difficulties.

Indicates the total vertical height gain covered; from the car park or the top station of a lift, to the summit.

Indicates the excursion’s exposure.

Indicates the overall walking time, including the descent.

TYPE OF ITINERARY

Indicates the type of itinerary that will be tackled. See itinerary key

The general information on the type of itinerary is specified.

Marked path: itinerary on a path which is always evident and marked with white-red signs and CAI notice boards.

Marked tracks: not very evident itinerary but marked with red signs and cairns. No signs along track: this type of itinerary is not very evident, and has no signs and cairns Without tracks: this itinerary needs to be found using maps and GPS.

Equipped path: an exposed path equipped with metal cable. The metal cable is used only for safety but not for progression.

Via ferrata: exposed itinerary, equipped with metal cable. The metal cable is used for safety as well as for progression. Ferrata set is needed.

Indicates the back up points during the excursion, like mountain huts, bivouacs or farmhouses.

Tracks on rocks: this itinerary offers easy scrambling on rocks, and requires a minimum amount of mountaineering experience. Eventually, a piece of cord and harness are recommended but not necessary.

Climbing route: a climbing route on rock which requires mountaineering experience and climbing gear.

Route on glacier: an itinerary on glacier which requires high mountain experience and glacier gear.

GEAR

Indicates the recommended material needed to tackle each excursion safely.

Hiking gear: trekking boots and poles. Difficult hiking gear: trekking boots, poles, 30 metres rope, a few carabiners and kevlar threads.

Ferrata set: a complete ferrata set: sling, harness and helmet.

Climbing gear: a 50 metre rope, harness, helmet a few cams, carabiners and kevlar threads. High mountain gear: 30/50 metre rope, harness, helmet, crampons, ice axe, a few ice screws.

AVERAGE DURATION

Indicates the average time taken from the starting point to reach the summit.

RECOMMENDED PERIOD

Indicates the best time of year to tackle the excursion.

DIFFICULTY

Indicates the technical difficulty of the excursion.

Excursionist difficulties: does not require the use of a rope.

T: Tourist. Easy itinerary which is generally carried out on forestry roads or mule tracks. It is always evident and well sign posted with signs and boards.

E: Excursionist. Difficult itinerary along difficult paths but always well sign posted with signs and notice boards.

EE: For Expert Excursionists. Very difficult itinerary on difficult paths, sometimes exposed or not so evident. They can offer easy rock sections or the crossing of gullies or snow fields.

EEA: for expert excursionists with gear. These are the initials commonly used for equipped paths or via ferrata: A ferrata set is necessary: a sling, harness and helmet.

Excursionist/Mountaineering Difficulties: the use of a rope depends on personal experience and preparation .

EE/F: Easy Excursionist/Mountaineering. Excursionist itinerary with mountaineering difficulties.

These initials include all those itineraries which are considered in between difficult excursions and easy mountaineering. These are usually very difficult itineraries, which offer exposed or steep sections or with short climbing sections. They require a steady foot and absence of vertigo, a minimum of mountaineering experience

and the knowledge of basic belaying techniques. The use of a rope is not necessary but recommended. The easy ridges are the classic ascents which are part of this difficulty.

Mountaineering Difficulties: require the use of a rope and belaying technique.

F: Easy. Easy mountaineering itinerary.

On rock: easy climbing sections up to I grade. On ice: easy glacier. Snow covered slopes or ice up to 30°/40°.

PD: Not very difficult. Mountaineering itinerary with contained difficulties.

On rock: climbing sections up to II grade. On ice: glacier not difficult. Snow covered slopes or ice up to 40°/50°.

AD: Quite Difficult. Quite difficult mountaineering itinerary.

On rock: with climbing sections up to III grade. . On ice: quite difficult glacier. Snow covered slopes or ice up to 50°/60°

D: Difficult. Difficult mountaineering itinerary. On rock: it has climbing sections up to IV grade. On ice: difficult glacier. Snow covered slopes or ice up to 60/70°.

STARTING AREA

Indicates the excursion’s starting point with its altitude. It can be a car park where you leave your car or the top station of a lift.

ROAD ACCESS

Indicates the route from the town to the car park where the excursions begins.

ASCENT

Detailed description of the ascent.

DESCENT

Detailed description of the descent.

CARTOGRAPHY

Topographic map useful for the excursions.

20 - ALPI BREONIE DI LEVANTE

Highest summit: Croda Alta 3289m

This small mountain chain, which runs from south-west towards north-east, isolated between the upper Isarco valley, Brennero and val di Vizze, is simply a small strip which runs in Italian territory, which is part of the larger Austrian Zillertaler Alps. They are wild and isolated mountains, where the charming and beautiful rifugio Europa or rifugio Venna alla Gerla, are the only back up point in this unknown and extraordinary chain.

Spina del Lupo, Gerla, Croda Alta, Olperer, romantic names for beautiful and prestigious mountains, immersed in an environment which is still natural and untouched.

All you have to do is follow the long and isolated val di Vizze, scattered with small villages and farm houses, discovering a high mountain environment of rare and unique beauty, where in the background, tall and unique the Gran Pilastro rises. The ascent to Gerla, to Croda Alta and Schrammacher are first class excursions and highly satisfying. Here we find the splendid rocky pyramid of Olperer, which after Grossglockner is the most appreciated mountain by the Austrians.

BOUNDARIES

• To the NORTH, the state border, from the Brenner Pass to Passo di Vizze

• To the EAST, Val di Vizze, from Passo di Vizze to Vipiteno

• To the SOUTH, the Vipiteno basin

• To the WEST, Valle dell’Isarco, from Vipiteno to the Brenner Pass

Schrammacher 3410m

Stampflkees and Schrammacher (© Fabrizio Rattin) Ô

20 ALPI BREONIE DI LEVANTE

TUXER ALPEN

Olperer

Fussstein

Schrammacher

STUBAIER ALPEN

Passo del Brennero

4 BREONIE DI PONENTE

Valle Isarco

ZILLERTALER ALPEN

La Gerla

rif. Venna alla Gerla

Sagwand

Croda Alta

Vipiteno

Cima Vallaccia

Punta del Tasso

Cima Rolle

Cima Gallina

Punta Bianca

Punta del Lago Romito

Passo di Vizze

Spina del Lupo )( )

ValleIsarco

Valle di Vizze

23 MONTI DI FUNDRES

5 GRUPPO DEI SARENTINI

GROUP’S GEOGRAPHY: the Alpi Breonie are the mountain chain which sets off from the Brenner pass. Towards west the Breonie di Ponente open up while to the east the Breonie di Levante stretch out. Breonie di Ponente are part of the vast Austrian group of the Stubaier Alps, while the Levante Breonie are part of the extended Zillertaler Alpen, or depending on other classifications the Tuxer Alpen.

The main chain of Breonie di Levante, as a frontier ridge, runs from the Brenner pass to passo di Vizze, and along this we find the more important reliefs such as Spina del Lupo and Croda Alta. From Spina del Lupo a modest mountain chain extends to the south and ends with cima Punta Bianca, above Vipiteno. While from Croda Alta, towards north, the main peaks of Schrammacher and Olperer run along into Austrian territory.

Fusstein 3380m

SUBGROUPS AND PEAKS

• MAIN CHAIN: between the Brenner pass and Passo di Vizze

Highest summit: Croda Alta

Main peaks: Spina del Lupo, Punta del lago Romito, La Gerla, Croda Alta

Austrian sector: Schrammacher, Olperer

TOUR

1. Croda Alta

2. Schrammaker

The majestic peaks of Fusstein and Olperer (© Fabrizio Rattin) Ô

Breonie di Levante (Zillertaler Alps)

HOHE WAND – Croda Alta 3289m

Normal Route from the East face

EAST, SOUTH - EAST snow fields and scrambling

An imposing summit which overlooks the entire Val di Vizze. Towards northeast it is connected to the beautiful Schrammacher along a long rocky ridge which is shaped like an amphitheatre over Stampflkees; towards South, instead, a rocky ridge joins it up to Grawand and then to Forcella Nevosa. Its western face is characterized by the continuation of the border’s ridge along secondary peaks up to Pfitsch Scharte.

An imposing peak which lies between Italy and Austria, very panoramic and highly satisfactory. Its east face is very tiring and the difficulty can vary depending on snow cover.

Type of itinerary: hiking to the snow field, then easy alpinism on a rocky slope covered in snow.

Gear: ice axe and crampons for the final slopes

Average excursion time: 5 hours from the car park to the summit

Recommended period: June- September

Difficulties: PD, 40° on snow, 1st grade on rock

Starting point: park along the road which runs up to Passo di Vizze at the fourth hair pin bend, at 1806m

Access: drive up along Val di Vizze until the last town of Stein where you take the evident dirt road which heads towards Passo di Vizze.

Follow it until the large car park situated just before the fourth hair pin bend where it is no longer allowed to continue with motorized vehicles.

Ascent: from the fourth hair pin bend along the Passo di Vizze road turn left onto path nr.4 and follow it to the Pass. Directly from the state border follow path 4b with signs for Schneescharte-Forcella Nevosa. Follow it along the wide panoramic ridge which runs between the boundary stones which lie between Italy and Austria until the track branches off to the right and follows the cairns standing along loose rocks and scree until you reach the glacier near the beautiful lakes of Forcella Nevosa. Set foot on Stampflkees, keeping on the left side until, always on the left, you notice an easy rampsnowy gully ascending to the right which gives access to the east face. Climb up the slope following the logical succession of snow and rocks aiming for the summit cross which is always visible above. Once you reach the ridge’s line follow it easily until the enormous summit cross.

Descent: back down the route taken uphill.

Cartography: Tabacco 037-Monti di Fundres-Gran Pilastro

Rifugio Passo di Vizze 2275m

 2634 Hohe Kirche

2943  Hohe Warte

3227  Sagwandspitze

Stampfkeers

Schrammacher  3410

Oberschrammachkeers

 3143

Ameiskopft 2553 

Aschafenferner

Hohe Wand

Croda Alta  3289

Pfitschscharte

Wasserfalköpfe 2575 

Grawand  2987

Schneescharte

2835  Grawandkofel

Kellerkopf 2648 

Zamserbach

Zinnen 2567 

Urbanscharte 2835

Durregg  2272

Biotop Putzerbödenmöser

Sameregg  2134

LongseeLago lungo del passo

Pfitscher Joch-Hause - Rif. Passo di Vizze 2676

Pfitscher JochPasso di Vizze 2651

JochseeLago del passo

Jochplatte 2100 

LS/SS508

Bichl

PfitscherBach - Rio di Vizze

Schneescharte 2789m Forcella Nevosa

Hohe Wand 3289m Croda Alta

Nord Gipfel 3281m

Gran Pilastro and Hochferner from the vicinity of Forcella Nevosa (© Fabrizio Rattin) Ô

Ascent track (© Fabrizio Rattin) Ó

The strenuous uphill terrain (© Fabrizio Rattin) 

to the ridge between Piz Lavarella and its southern foresummit. From its ridge, without any difficulties, you can easily reach the summit crosses. Beautiful views towards the entire eastern Dolomites.

Descent: Back down the route taken uphill.

Cartography: Tabacco 07 Alta Badia.

Piz Lavarella 3050m Piz de Lavarela

Piz Lavarella Ovest 3034m Lavarela de Fora

Ascent route (© Diego Filippi) Ô 

Piz Lavarella 3050m

Piz de Lavarela

Fanes Senes Braies Group, Tofana Group

TOFANA DI ROCES 3225m

From the via ferrata Giovanni Lipella and loop itinerary

path and ferrata WEST

8 h 1200m

Elegant rocky pyramid, isolated between Forcella Col dei Bos to the east and Forcella Fontananegra to the west.

It is not the highest of the three Tofana peaks, but Tofana di Roces is certainly the most prominent and massive. Elegant in its shape, it reaches towards the sky, towards south it has a colossal wall, famous for the many popular climbing routes. On this famous dolomite peak the Lipella ferrata is unmissable: long and difficult. This itinerary is varied and exciting. It begins along the ancient war tunnel named “del Castelletto” thanks to this it pops out onto the western side. Proceed and making the most of the mountain’s lines such as ledges, chimneys and rock faces it comes out onto the northern ridge and along this to the far away summit. Considering even its descent, which is tackled on exposed terrain the itinerary is very difficult but highly satisfactory.

Type of itinerary:the paths are always well sign posted and the via ferrata is in good conditions.

Gear: normal hiking gear, a flash light for the tunnel, complete ferrata.

Average excursion time: 4-5 hours from the car park to the summit.

Recommended period: July, August.

Difficulties: EEA via ferrata of average difficulty but very long.

Starting point: rifugio Dibona 2037m.

Access by road: from Cortina d’Ampezzo climb up towards passo Falzarego, after approximately 5km you will find the junction for rifugio Dibona on the right. Follow the road until the large car park near the rifugio.

Salita: from the car park take the road, sign nr.403, for rifugio Giussani. Shortly after follow path nr.404 to the left with evident signs for ferrata Lipella. Passing by the base of Tofana’s entire south face you reach (in roughly one hour of walking from the car park) the start of the via ferrata. The itinerary begins straight away by entering the striking and very long war tunnel, a flash light can be useful, to then pop out onto some hanging ledges, right on the western face. Now the itinerary with a very logical line, makes the most of the many ledges, couloirs and short rock faces and gains height, head towards Punta delle Tre Dita, where it is possible to interrupt the ferrata by coming out onto the left and intercepting a path which leads to rifugio Giussani. Evident signs indicate these possibilities. Staying on Lipella, a long ledge on the right leads back onto the west face and to the base of the vast amphitheatre, usually covered by water streaks and snow at the beginning of the season. Continue along the equipment and with

rifugio Giussani 2580m

162

Descent: from the summit head back down the route taken up until the exit of the ferrata, where, turning right up steep screes and rocks, you go down to rifugio Giussani. From here along an easy path nr.403 head back to rifugio Dibona and the car park.

Tofana di Roces 3225m

Start of the Lipella via ferrata (© Diego Filippi) 

The south face of Tofana di Roces (© Diego Filippi) Ó

Fanes

a last bit of effort, finally you pop out onto the northern ridge of Tofana di Roces. Along this, along an evident path without any difficulties, reach the summit cross. Breath taking views all around and towards the surrounding dolomite peaks.

TOUR

36. Dente del Sassolungo

37. Sassopiatto

38. Piz Boè

39. Le Mesules

Torre Innerkofler 3098m

Punta Grohmann 3126m

Sassolungo 3181m

Punta Cinque Dita 2999m

Spallone del Sassolungo 3081m

Sassolungo Group (© Diego Filippi) Ó

Sassolungo Group (© Diego Filippi) Ô

Dente del Sassolungo 3001m

Punta Grohmann 3126m

Torre Innerkofler 3098m

Dente del Sassolungo 3001m

Torre Innerkofler 3098m

Punta Grohmann 3126m

Punta Cinque Dita 2999m

Sassolungo 3181m

Spallone del Sassolungo 3081m

Sass Pordoi 2950m

Sassolungo Group (© Diego Filippi) Ó

Sella Group (© Diego Filippi) Ô

Piz Ciavazes 2828m

Sella Group (© Diego Filippi)

Piz Boè 3152m

Sass Pordoi 2950m

DENTE DEL SASSOLUNGO 3001m

Along the Normal route

SOUTH AND WEST

path and climbing route

Prominent rocky tower, wedged in between Sassopiatto and Torre Innerkofler. Distinctly separated by these two across the deep carved out sections of the Forcella Orientale del Sassopiatto and Forcella del Dente.

No better name suits this spectacular rocky tower, with its square shaped flanks and its yellow vertical rock faces, which drop down for over 300 metres above the green meadows of Pian de Sas. The normal ascent route roughly follows the western arête, with average difficulties of II and III grade, with a few moves of IV. The rock is usually good and there are enough protections on the wall. This ascent, even if easy, requires a minimum amount of classic climbing experience in the Dolomites. The southern access to the Sassopiatto’s eastern saddle where the beginning of the climbing route begins, requires a lot of care due to the loose rock underfoot. In case of any snow at the beginning of the season crampons will be necessary. All in all it is a complete ascent: a laborious access, a climbing route without much protection and a descent which requires abseiling which is not at all simple.

Type of itinerary: paths are well sign posted, hardly any tracks and climbing route with hardly any protection.

Gear: normal trad climbing gear, a few cams, kevlar threads to leave in situ, crampons at the beginning of the season.

Average excursion time: 4.30-5 hours from the car park to the summit.

Recommended period: June- October.

Difficulties: PD+, climbing route with sections up to III+, IV.

Starting point: Passo Sella, Rifugio Valentini 2218m, pay and display car park.

Access by road: from Val Gardena or from Val di Fassa reach Passo Sella and follow signs for Rifugio Valentini (dirt road uphill), park in the small pay and display areas.

Ascent: From the car park near Rifugio Valentini take the dirt road which goes past rifugio Salei and leads to Forcella di Rodella (2308m). Before reaching the saddle, leave the dirt road to climb up to the right, along the ski slopes aiming towards the highest of the chairlift top stations. One track allows to reach the ridge, grassy in sections and covered in dirt. Climb up the ridge to the end, level with Punta Grohmann (SouthEast arête) and shortly before reaching the rocks traverse to the left (west) along an evident track. Walk around Punta Grohmann and the successive Torre Innerkofler until you reach the base of Dente del Sassolungo. Go past its yellow south face until you reach the entrance of a narrow rocky gully; climb up it and enter the gully which heads up towards Forcella Orientale del Sassopiatto. Continue

Sella-Sassolungo Group, Sassolungo Group

Ciampanil Comici  2799

3093  Wessely turm

 3181 LangkofelSassolungo

HocheggePiza da Uridl  2102 Ponjin 2382 

Plattkofeltürme - Torri del Sasso Piatto

 2688

PlattkofelhütteRif. Sasso Piatto

Lari

LangkofelhütteRif. VicenzaPertini

Langkofelkarspitze - Punta Dantersasc  2820

Fünffungerscharte - Forc. Cinque Dita

ZahnköfelIl dente 3001 

Rif. Sandro Pertini

Langkofeleck - Spallone del Sassolungo  3081

GrohmannspitzePunta Grohmann  3126

Gabia

Rif. Friedrich August

Forc.la Rodera

Col Rodela 2484 

Rif. Col Rodela

SS48

Rif. Salei

Passo Sella

SS242 Rif. Des Alpes

Rif. Valentini

Rif. Micheluzzi

Rifugio Dona

Average excursion time: 4-5 hours from the car park to the summit.

Recommended period: June-October.

Difficulties: AD II,III, 2 sections of IV.

Starting point: parking above Malga Civertaghe 1442m.

Access by road: from Fiera di Primiero head up towards San Martino di Castrozza and once past Valmesta you reach the first large hair pin bend where you leave the main path. Follow the asphalt road following signs for Malga Civertaghe. Once you reach it continue on the flat following signs for Rifugio Velo della Madonna and after a hair pin bend you reach the large car park where it is forbidden to continue.

Ascent: from the car park take path nr.713 directly reaching Rifugio del Velo; go past it towards Forcella della Stanga, stopping where the evident gully comes down from Sass Maor and Cima della

Madonna with evident wedged in boulder where you start near a rockface. Start up the wall directly passing just to the left of the wedged in boulder (difficult section) until you set up anchor inside the gully (IV/A0). Faithfully follow the deep gully going around the wedged in boulders until the saddle which divides Sass Maòr from Cima della Madonna (II-III). Continue up the north side up nice walls until the buttress which looks over Val Canali (150m II-III). Go round the summit tower on the east side along the easy ramp which leads under the vertical chimney. Climb up the chimney traversing to the left to then find an anchor point (IV), continuing straight up along a corner-gully (III-II) you pop out onto the beautiful summit.

Descent: back down the uphill route using the anchor points used during the ascent. Under the saddle between Sass Maor and Cima della Madonna watch out and follow the first gully on the right and then the one on the left, especially with scarce visibility.

Just below the saddle between Sass Maòr and Cima della Madonna (© Franz Pompoli) Ô

Cartography: Tabacco 022 Pale di San Martino.

Ascent Sass Maor (© Fabrizio Rattin) 

Cima della Madonna 2752m

Rifugio del Velo 2358m

CIMA DELLA STANGA 2550m

Along the Dino Buzzati via ferrata and descent from the equipped ‘Sentiero del Cacciatore’

vie ferrata and scrambling

Cimerlo shuts off the San Martino chain to the south, overlooking the entire valley of Primiero. Cima della Stanga to the north connects it to the rest of the mountain chain.

With this beautiful loop itinerary, as well as touching two splendid summits, you cover valleys of extraordinary beauty typical of the Dolomites. The uphill route follows the Dino Buzzati via ferrata, which varied and steep, runs along a labyrinth of towers and pinnacles along the lower part. On the upper part it follows the wall’s logic: long ledges and chimneys. Downhill you follow the spectacular and wild ‘Sentiero del Cacciatore’, party equipped with metal cables. From the peak the view is remarkable over the east face of Sass Maòr and over the entire Val Pradidali.

Type of itinerary: well sign posted path but steep and uneven, via ferrata, easy scrambling to reach the summit.

Gear: normal hiking gear with complete ferrata set.

Average excursion time: 3.30-4 hours from the car park to cima della Stanga.

Recommended period: June-October.

Difficulties: EEA, via ferrata of average difficulty.

Starting point: parking just before the Fosne meadows, in Val Canali, 1326m.

Access by road: follow the entire Val Canali to the Restuarant La Ritonda where, on the left you follow an asphalt road uphill until the evident car park with Cai sign posts.

Ascent: from the car park shortly to the left reach the beautiful Fosne meadows where you take path nr.731 to the right, then follow a dirt road until the meadows of Rodèna and then horizontally to the right along path nr.747 until an evident scree. Climb up steeply to the left through the woods which become scarcer, until the base of the first rocks, where a surreal labyrinth journey among the towers of Cimerlo begins. Climb up the steep sections until the start of the via ferrata Dino Buzzati. Carefully follow the nice equipped sections and after a steep ladder, pop out with amazement onto a large hanging meadow in among the tall rock faces. Continue along the path until you reach a saddle not far from the summit where you leave path nr.747 for an exposed ridge towards south-west, which with a few easy sections of first grade leads to the foresummit. Carefully reach the top without great difficulty, and ignore the junction on the right (Sentiero del Cacciatore) and reach the nearby cima della Stanga.

Descent: from cima della Stanga return back along the route taken uphill, until the junction

Rifugio Forestale

Cima di Val di Roda

 2791

Cima delle Scarpe  2731

Ghiacciaio di Pola

Pala di San Martino  2982

Cima Immink  2862

 2731 Cima Pralidali

Passo di Bali

 2774

Torre Pralidali Campanile Pradidali

Passo delle Lede

Cima Wilma

 2774

Ghiacciaio della Fradusta Superiore

2939  Cima La Fradusta

SS50

Rif. Forestale delle Laste

a V e c c h i a P rati Ronz

2550  Sas del Cogol

Rifugio Petina

 2744

 2802

Cima di Bali

Forcella Stephen Forcella Porton

Cima Canali  2859

Sass Maòr

 2812

Cima della Stanga

 2550

2503  Cimerlo

Gear: normal hiking gear, with lightweight harness and 40 metre rope.

Average excursion time: 3-3.30 hours from the car park to monte Neva.

Recommended period: June- October.

Difficulties: EE/F+ rock sections, easy but exposed. A 20m abseil.

Starting point: Rifugio Fonteghi 1100m.

Access by road: from the town of Imèr in Valle di Primiero follow signs on the right for Val Noana and along a narrow asphalt road you reach Rifugio Fonteghi.

Ascent: directly from Rifugio Fonteghi turn left along path nr. 748, which with a steep dirt road leads to Casera Scaorin 1553m. Continue along the evident tracks, now path, along a panoramic wooded ridge. Traverse for a long section below

the cima degli Spizoti until you reach a saddle with view over val Giasinozza. Here leave the main path and following the evident ridge towards west shortly reach the panoramic meadowy summit of Spizoti. Once back on path nr.748, follow it faithfully until the nearby peak of Col di San Piero. Leave path nr.748 and keep following the ridge aiming towards north-east, finding a first passage through mountain pine which then quickly leaves space to a rocky slope with scree. Follow the many cairns and some old yellow-orange signs until you reach a wide foresummit which after a short ascent, leads to the beautiful crux of Monte di Neva: a summit with wonderful views all around. This is where the hiking section ends. Head down towards north east along the ridge, ignoring an evident section of mountain pine which turns towards south.

Go down towards north aiming towards the evident saddle with the southern tower “Torre Meridionale” and reach it carefully along the section with difficulties of up to second grade.

Monte Neva 2228m

The ascent route to Monte Neva from Colle di San Piero (© Diego Filippi) Ô

Col di San Piero 1954m

Spizoti 1911m

Monte Neva 2228m

Torre di Neva Meridionale 2240m

Spizoti and Col di San Piero (© Diego Filippi) Ó

Nice view over Torre Meridionale and Monte Neva (© Diego Filippi) Ô

Watch out not to miss the cairns and the rare signs, after a short section dropping down, traverse along an easy rock section and take a system of easy ascending ledges to the left until you face over the drop towards Torre Centrale. Here you turn sharply to the right along a ledge, climb up the chimney and with easy rocks you reach the solitary summit of Torre di Neva Meridionale. Cairn. Continue lowering down easily towards north east until the saddle with screes which separates the southern tower ‘Torre Meridionale’ from the central tower “Centrale torre” and climb up easy rocks at the top of this last one, fully enjoying the rare feeling of beauty and isolation of these forgotten elevations.

Descent: continue traversing towards north east slightly downhill with easy sections of first grade and reach an evident saddle, where a difficult ridge branches off towards the wild Torre Settentrionale. Turn towards south following a yellow coloured arrow and follow a busy track with signs and cairns towards Cadìn di Neva. Shortly you reach a large rock spike with kevlar threads, from where you abseil down with a 20m rope in a chimney (III). Continue downhill carefully towards south until an evident carved out section which gives access to a long descending rampledge towards south-west, which completely traverses the south face of Torre Centrale. Follow the ramp, with different sections of first and second grade which are not exposed, until you reach the striking basin of Cadìn di Neva and the easy path which crosses it. Continue downhill along the nice track until you reach Malga Neva and aim towards east to the bottom of the valley until you find an evident path which climbs up to Rifugio B. Boz 1718m. After eating and drinking take path nr.727 and keeping to the orographic left or right as you please, reach “El Belo” at the bottom of Val Noana. Following the asphalt road for a couple of kilometres you return to Rifugio Fonteghi, ending this very satisfying loop.

Cartography: Tabacco 023 Alpi Feltrine, Le Vette, Cimonega.

Descent from Monte Neva (© Diego Filippi)