EASY ALPINISM in TRENTINO-SOUTH TYROL by Versante Sud srl

EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD | COLLANA LUOGHI VERTICALI | TREKKING DIEGO FILIPPI - FABRIZIO RATTIN EASY ALPINISM in TRENTINO-SOUTH TYROL NORMAL ROUTES and ARÊTES VOL. 1 - Western valleys

This is a “zero-miles” guidebook. It’s locally produced! It has been compiled by local authors, who live and promote trekking in the area reviewed. Trekkers benefit from local authors: locals know the latest news and updates locals don’t promote only the most “commercial” tours locals invest the revenues from the guidebook in exploring new itineraries Local authors promote and respect their area: they review with a local attention to the territory they pay attention in the same way to any different tours they meaningfully interact with local actors ZERO miles This guidebook is homegrown and producedlocally ZERO miles! Note Trekking is a potentially dangerous sport in which participation is entirely at your own risk. All the information in this guide has been updated based upon information at the time of publication, however it is vital to evaluate every situation yourself before placing yourself in a life threatening situation or to seek the advice of experienced and qualified individuals. Cover image Downhill in the Brenta Group. © Enrico Veronese Text Diego Filippi and Fabrizio Rattin Revision text Federico Zanuso English translation Alexandra Ercolani Photos Diego FIlippi and Fabrizio Rattin Maps Tommaso Bacciocchi. © Mapbox, © Open Street Map Symbols Tommaso Bacciocchi Layout Matteo Bertolotti Printing Press Grafica S.r.l. - Gravellona Toce (VB), Italy First edition July 2022 ISBN 978 88 55470 926 Copyright © 2022 VERSANTE SUD – Milano, via Rosso di San Secondo, 1. Ph. +39 02 7490163 Allwww.versantesud.ittranslation,reproduction, adaptation and electronic registration, either totally or partially, by any methods, are rights reserved for all countries.

EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD ZERO miles This guidebook is homegrown and locally produced EASY ALPINISM in TRENTINO-SOUTH TYROL NORMAL ROUTES AND ARÊTES VOLUME 1 - Western Valleys DIEGO FILIPPI - FABRIZIO RATTIN

Summary Presentation ......................... 8 Introduction 10 Symbols and Technical Introduction . . . . . 12 1. SESVENNA 18 01. Piz Sesvenna and Piz Foratrida 22 02. Cima di Tella and Cima dei Greppi ... 26 2. VENOSTE AND PASSIRIE ALPS 30 03. Palla Bianca 36 04. Similaun 40 05. Cime Nere 44 06. Cima di Mastaun 48 07. Cima del Dosso 52 08. Punta delle Fosse and Punta di Trumes 54 09. Cima di Vermoi 58 3. TESSA GROUP 62 10. Orenknott 66 11. Cima di Tel 68 12. Croda del Clivio .................. 72 13. Indice di Biagio 76 14. Monte Rosso 80 15. Cima Fiammante 84 16. Cigot and Cima Rosa di Lazins 88 17. Cima Rosa di Spranza 92 18. Cima Muta 96 19. Punta Alta and Monte Corno 98 20. Monte Sella 102 21. Punta di Matatz 104 4. BREONIE DI PONENTE STUBAIER ALPS 106 22. Cima Libera 112 23. Cima dell’Accla 118 24. Monte Cavallo, Cime Bianche Telves 124 25. Parete Bianca and Dente Alto 128 26. Tribulaun di Fleres............... 132 27. Gschnitzer Tribulaun, Monte d. Ferro 138 28. Punta Alta, Piccola di Monte Croce 142 29. Kalkwand and Habicht 146 5. THE SARENTINO MOUNTAINS 150 30. Honigspitze, Punta Cervinia and Corno di Pegno 154 31. Picco Ivigna and Piccolo Ivigna. Cima Laste di Verdins and Plattinger 158 32. Picco Ivigna - south-west ridge 162 33. Corno Bianco di Pennes, Grollspitze 164 34. Corno di Tramin 170 35. Cima di San Giacomo ............ 174 6. ORTLES GROUP 180 36. Ortles 188 37. Monte Zebrù .................... 192 38. Cima Solda 196 39. Cima Lasa 200 7. SOBRETTA-GAVIA GROUP .......... 204 40. Monte Gavia 208 41. Cima di Savoretta, Punta di Valmalza 212 8. CEVEDALE GROUP 216 42. Zufallspitze ..................... 220 43. Pizzo Tresero 224 44. Corno dei Tre Signori and Monte Gaviola 228 45. Punta d’Albiolo .................. 232 46. Monte Tonale Or., Punta del Soldato, Torrione d’Albiolo, Albiolino, Cima Casaiole, Cima Casaiole Merid., Monte Tonale Occ. and Cima Cadì 236 47. Monte Redival 244 48. Cima Boai 248 49. Cima Marmotta, Cima Venezia, II Cima Venezia, III Cima Venezia, Quota 3320m, Punta Martello, Cima Rossa di Saent, and Cima Mezzana 252 50. Cima Sternai 258 51. Cima Gioveretto 262 52. Cima Dodici and Picco dei Tre Pastori 266 53. Cima Guardia Alta 268 4

Carè Alto (© D. Filippi) 5

9. MADDALENE CHAIN 272 54. Monte Luco and Piccolo Monte Luco 276 55. Cima Vedetta Alta 280 56. Monte Ometto 282 57. Monte Pin 286 10. MENDOLA CHAIN 290 58. Bergner Kreuz and Monte Macaion 294 59. Monte Penegal and Croce di Penegal 298 60. Corno di Tres ................... 300 61. Cima d’Arza 302 62. Cima Roccapiana 304 63. Monte Pontalt and Monticello 308 64. Torre di Visione and Monte Cronello 312 11. ADAMELLO GROUP 314 65. Lobbia Alta and Cima Cresta Croce 320 66. Corno di Grevo 324 67. Monte Bruffione and Monte Remà 328 68. Ago Mingo 332 69. Carè Alto 336 70. Monte Spadalone and Corno Alto 342 71. Cima Cop di Breguzzo 346 72. Monte Corona 350 73. Pizzo Badile Camuno 354 12. PRESANELLA GROUP 356 74. Cima Presanella 362 75. Cima Vermiglio 366 76. Cima Scarpacò 368 77. Cima Giner ..................... 372 78. Monte Zeledria 376 13. BRENTA DOLOMITES 380 79. Cima Ceda Orientale 386 80. Cima d’Ambiez 390 81. Pala dei Mughi 394 82. Monte Pizzo 398 83. Monte Brugnol and Monte Ghirlo 402 84. Dos d’Arnal and Cima Ghez 406 85. Dente dei Rossati, Cima dei Rossati and Cima Soran 410 86. Cima Brenta Est, Cima Brenta, Cima Brenta Ovest and Cima Mandron ... 416 87. Cima Gaiarda 420 88. Cima Dagnola and Piz Galin ....... 424 89. Cima Santa Maria, Cima Loverdina 428 90. Cima dell’Inferno, Cima di Val Strangola: Punta Ovest, di Mezzo and Est 432 91. Cima Trettel and Cima Borcola .... 434 92. Pietra Grande and Cima Vagliana 436 93. Sasso Rosso, Cima Nana and Spallone del Sasso rosso 442 94. Monte Canfedin and Monte Gazza .. 446 95. Croce di Fai e Monte Fausior 450 96. Piccolo Dain 452 14. CADRIA GROUP 458 97. Monte Stigolo 462 98. Cima San Giorgio 466 99. Monte Nozzolo Piccolo and Monte Nozzolo Grande 468 100. Monte Cadria ................... 472 101. Corno dell’Ussol, Corno del Gui, Roccia Campei, Cima la Roda, Cima Maroni 476 102. Cima Gavardina, Dosso della Torta, Monte Tofino and Corno di Pichea 480 103. Monte Altissimo 484 104. Cima Sera 488 105. Monte di San Martino 490 106. Monte Cocca, Monte Tomeabrù, Monte Caret, Dos da Trat and Dos dei Seadi 492 107. Cima Parì, Cima Sclapa, Cima Oro 496 108. Cima Valdes 500 109. Cima Grotta Dazi, Cima Rocchetta and Cima Sat 504 110. Cima Capi and Cima Rocca 508 15. GARDA MOUNTAINS 514 111. Monte Brento ................... 518 112. Monte Biaina 520 113. Monte Misone 522 114. Pala Granda and Cima Verde 524 115. Dos d’Abramo 528 116. Monte Cornetto 532 117. Monte Stivo..................... 534 118. Monte Biaena 538 16. PICCOLE DOLOMITI BRESCIANE 542 119. Dosso Alto 546 120. Monte Censo 548 6

121. Monte Paghera ................. 550 122. Dosso Sassello 552 17. TREMALZO GROUP 554 123. Cima Spessa 558 124. Monte Tremalzo, Corno d. Marogna 562 125. Monte Corno ................... 566 126. Monte Carone 570 127. Monte Guil, Cima Nara and Cima al Bal 572 128. Cima Nodice .................... 576 129. Punta Larici 580 18. BALDO GROUP 582 130. Vetta della Buse, Punta Sascaga, Punta Telegrafo and Punta Pettorina 588 131. Cima Valdritta, Cima val Finestra, Cima del Longino and Cima delle Pozzette 594 19. PIZZOCOLO GROUP 598 132. Monte Pizzocolo ................. 602 133. Monte Castello di Gaino 604 Roteck (© D. Filippi) Ô 7

Presentation by Mario Corradini

The region of Trentino-South Tyrol is an important part of the alpine arc. It is mainly a mountai nous territory with high, snow covered peaks which make up a sector of the Alps which repre sents a great structural relief. Various Dolomite groups lie here, and in this volume dedicated to the western part of the region, there are various itineraries in the Brenta Dolomites, the group further west of the Dolomites. The Dolomites have been declared a UNESCO World Heritage site. An important recognition, a precious one, which highlights the beauty of these mountains which never cease to amaze, so much so that hikers and climbers come to visit them from all over the world. The Prealps consist of the “minor” part of the reliefs but not for this reason are less interesting. They lie to the south of their “older sisters” offering countless opportunities.

In fact on these mountains there is not only hiking but there are also many rock faces for climbing. There are various environmental beauties and many historical remains, including the ones from the war front of 1915/18.

http://www.cliv.it/Mcorr.htm

The pleasure of going to the mountains and the love for one’s land hardly remain exclusively personal. Many share these emotions with others, with hiking and climbing partners. A few of them wish to share their experiences and their knowledge, even through the pages of a book. Doing so allows many other people to discover new itineraries and to climb slopes, rock faces and peaks safely.

Writing this presentation has given me the opportunity to go back in time. I remember a num ber of emotions, lots of different situations, happy moments and even moments of concern. The years pass by, experiences accumulate, memories are part of a life lived fully. A book offers the opportunity of new discoveries and will always be a precious help to remind us what joy we have felt in the mountains.

Writing a guide book is not easy, it is not trivial. In proposing itineraries to reach a peak in a description you have to include– even concisely– all the basic and necessary information. The reader must be able to understand areas, times, difficulties, vertical height gains and cha racteristics of the terrain they are about to tackle. Leafing through these pages I notice that this book has exactly these characteristics. It could not be otherwise since this is not the first time that Diego writes a guide book. He has already written a number of climbing volumes and his profession as a Mountain Guide is further guarantee of the technical data described in his books. Further more this volume is on the eastern part of Trentino-South Tyrol which sees Fabrizio as a co-author, alpinist and technical member of the mountain rescue team. Reading this index I see that this publication offers numerous and different itineraries. A book, even if written with the objective of introducing new areas, sometimes is useful in reviving di stant memories which have been lost in the most remote corners of one’s memory. I remem ber many days spent on these mountains. And reading over my notes on this occasion I look for the old slides forgotten in my old archive.

Cima di Tella (© D. Filippi)

This guide book describes a wide range of peaks with difficulties which vary from hiking to easy mountaineering. 19 mountain groups are taken into consideration, where over 250 peaks are carefully described. The Trentino-South Tyrol region is clearly divided into two parts from the long Valle dell’ Adige and from Passo del Brennero. The two parts, East and West, are almost equivalent in terms of surface area and mountain groups. Roughly 250 peaks are described in this area and as many for the eastern area. Each mountain group is carefully examined supplying a general description, the topographical borders and the geographical structure. Furthermore, a detailed map makes it easy to figure out the road access and the quick location of the peaks described. Each itinerary is described with text, action and panoramic photos of the mountain with its ascent route.

The peaks climbed describe the incredible environmental and technical variety, passing from the high summits of the mountain chain which lie at the frontier with its shiny glaciers, to the Prealpine area over Lake Garda or even monte Grappa with a mild climate which is ideal for the colder periods, to then continue with the incredible Dolomite area, unique in the world for its geomorphology and for the beauty of its mountains. I would like to give Diego my heartfelt thanks, for asking me to help him in this idea and for having given me the opportunity to see such a great project develop with its energy, sharing thoughts, way of working, planning new ascents in the most hidden and fascinating corners of the region. Its meticulous precision, both in his organizational skills and in his writing, his availability and humility in patiently sha ring and teaching, have been for me true lessons of life.

Introduction by Fabrizio Rattin

Authentic passion, dedication, synergy of intent, true friendship, explorative and geographic curiosity are all adjectives which outline the supporting pillars of this work. A detailed job, with great attention to detail, which has taken years of never ending collection of information and describing ascents, all carried out personally by at least one of the two authors, this is a significant added value. Every page is an unforgettable memory of beautiful days spent in the mountains, the true mountain, in a no-frills way, the way of the normal routes: an environment which I have learned to appreciate deeply. No ambitious aspirations for us, simply the enjoyment and satisfaction of giving passionate mountain goers a guide which has a soul, the soul of the territory in which we live, an amazing and complete region that we are proud to be able to give homage to. One of our main objecti ves is to create a geographical culture of the Trentino-South Tyrol region and its surrounding areas, making it possible to discover one by one the 43 mountain groups which make up this entire area in a detailed way.

5 3 1 2 4 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 BressanoneVipiteno BolzanoBormio Merano Nauders Brunico Innsbruck ALPENTUXER STUBAIERALPEN OTZTALERALPEN SESVENNAGRUPPE ZILLERTALERALPEN VENEDIGERGRUPPEDEFEREGGERGRUPPE20 21 22 23 24 25 BrenoEdolo Laces Lana DimaroMalè 13 14 15 16 17 1819 Trento OROBIEALPI Tione Ponte Arche PredazzoMoenaCanazei DobbiacoCortina Auronzo 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 34 33 35 3637 38 39 S. Martino Agordo Feltre Belluno BassanoArsiero Verona 41 43 42 40 Mezzolombardo PonteLegnodi Carisolo Cles Naturno Spondigna Corvara Cencenighe Rovereto Riva Ora Chiusa Calliano Valdagno WEST AREA - Volume 1 1. Sesvenna 2. Venoste and Passirie Alps 3. Tessa Group 4. Breonie di Ponente Stubaier Alp 5. The Sarentino Mountains 6. Ortles Group 7. Sobretta - Gavia Group 8. Cevedale Group 9. Maddalene Chain 10. Mendola Chain 11. Adamello Group 12. Presanella Group 13. Brenta Dolomites 14. Cadria Group 15. Garda Mountains 16. Piccole Dolomiti Bresciane 17. Tremalzo Group 18. Baldo Group 19. Pizzocolo Group EAST AREA - Volume 2 20. Alpi Breonie di Levante 21. Aurine Alps 22. Monti di Predoi 23. Monti di Fundres 24. Vedrette di Ries 25. Monti di Casies 26. Odle – Puez 27. Fanes - Senes - Braies 28. Sesto Dolomites 29. Catinaccio Group 30. Sella and Sassolungo 31. Latemar Group 32. Marmolada Group 33. Cima Bocche Chain 34. Lagorai Chain 35. Cima d’Asta Group 36. Pale di San Martino 37. Feltrine Alps 38. Schiara Group 39. Cima Dodici Chain 40. Piccole Dolomiti 41. Grappa Massif 42. Col Nudo-Cavallo 43. Lessini Mountains 11

12 READING SCHEME

AND

The general information on the type of itine rary is specified: Marked path: itinerary on a path which is always evident and marked with white-red signs and CAI notice boards. Marked tracks: not very evident itinerary but marked with red signs and cairns. No signs along track: this type of itinerary is not very evident, and has no signs and cairns

vertical height gain exposuredifficulties type of itineraryOverall time Indicates the back up points during the excursion, like mountain huts, bivouacs or farmhouses. back up points Indicates the overall difficulty of the excursion. See key of difficulties. Indicates the total vertical height gain covered; from the car park or the top station of a lift, to the summit. Indicates the excursion’s exposure. Indicates the overall walking time, including the descent. Indicates the type of itinerary that will be tackled. See itinerary key signs Land-air signsRed flare or light Red material / red flag Square shape 100x100cm. Red central circle (60cm diameter). White ring 15cm LAND-AIR RESCUE SIGNS FOR HELICOPTERS PLANES

TYPE OF ITINERARY:

Without tracks: this itinerary needs to be found using maps and GPS. Equipped path: an exposed path equipped with metal cable. The metal cable is used only for safety but not for progression. Via ferrata: exposed itinerary, equipped with metal cable. The metal cable is used for sa fety as well as for progression. Ferrata set is needed. Tracks on rocks: this itinerary offers easy scrambling on rocks, and requires a mini

WE NEED HELP WE DON’T NEED HELP NoYes INTERNATIONAL

Land-air

Cima Fiammante (© D. Filippi)

Mountaineering Difficulties: require the use of a rope and belaying technique.

T: Tourist. Easy itinerary which is generally carried out on forestry roads or mule tracks. It is always evident and well sign posted with signs and boards.

RECOMMENDED PERIOD: Indicates the best time of year to tackle the excursion.

EE/F: Easy Excursionist/Mountaineering. Ex cursionist itinerary with mountaineering dif Theseficulties.initials include all those itineraries which are considered in between difficult ex cursions and easy mountaineering. These are usually very difficult itineraries, which offer exposed or steep sections or with short clim bing sections. They require a steady foot and absence of vertigo, a minimum of mountaine ering experience and the knowledge of basic belaying techniques. The use of a rope is not necessary but recommended. The easy rid ges are the classic ascents which are part of this difficulty.

E: Excursionist. Difficult itinerary along diffi cult paths but always well sign posted with signs and notice boards.

Climbing gear: a 50 metre rope, harness, helmet a few cams, carabiners and kevlar threads.

GEAR: Indicates the recommended material needed to tackle each excursion safely:

nerary on difficult paths, sometimes exposed or not so evident. They can offer easy rock sections or the crossing of gullies or snow fields.

F: Easy. Easy mountaineering itinerary. On rock: easy climbing sections up to I grade. On ice: easy glacier. Snow covered slopes or ice up to 30°/40°.

Route on glacier: an itinerary on glacier which requires high mountain experience and glacier gear.

Excursionist/Mountaineering Difficulties: the use of a rope depends on personal expe rience and preparation .

Eventually, a piece of cord and harness are recommended but not necessary.

Hiking gear: trekking boots and poles. Difficult hiking gear: trekking boots, poles, 30 metres rope, a few carabiners and kevlar threads. Ferrata set: a complete ferrata set: sling, harness and helmet.

DIFFICULTY: Indicates the technical difficulty of the excur sion. Excursionist difficulties: does not require the use of a rope.

mum amount of mountaineering experience.

High mountain gear: 30/50 metre rope, har ness, helmet, crampons, ice axe, a few ice screws.

EE: For Expert Excursionists. Very difficult iti

EEA: for expert excursionists with gear. The se are the initials commonly used for equip ped paths or via ferrata: A ferrata set is ne cessary: a sling, harness and helmet.

PD: Not very difficult. Mountaineering itine rary with contained difficulties. On rock: climbing sections up to II grade. On ice: glacier not difficult. Snow covered slo pes or ice up to 40°/50°.

AD: Quite Difficult. Quite difficult mountaine ering itinerary. On rock: with climbing sections up to III grade. On ice: quite difficult glacier. Snow covered slopes or ice up to 50°/60°

Climbing route: a climbing route on rock which requires mountaineering experience and climbing gear.

AVERAGE DURATION: Indicates the average time taken from the starting point to reach the summit.

D: Difficult. Difficult mountaineering itinera ry. On rock: it has climbing sections up to IV grade. On ice: difficult glacier. Snow covered slopes or ice up to 60/70°.

Carè Alto (© F. Ferri) ÒÒ 15

STARTING AREA: Indicates the excursion’s starting point with its altitude. It can be a car park where you leave your car or the top station of a lift. ACCESS: Indicates the route from the town to the car park where the excursions begins.

ROAD

DESCENT:

ASCENT: Detailed description of the ascent. Detailed description of the descent. CARTOGRAPHY: Topographic map useful for the excursions.

Carè Alto 3462 m

• to the East: the upper Val Venosta area from passo Resia to Spondinga • to the South: the Trafoi valley with the Stelvio pass and val Müstair, from Spondinga to Zernez • to the West: the lower Engadina area from Zernez to Susch.

Lorenziberg 3016 mPiz Starlex 3075 m

- SESVENNA

Splendid mountain group which is not well known but offers its visitors beautiful excursions and interesting alpine ascents in a natural environment which is still extraordinarily untouched and varied, from its complex and intriguing geomorphology to the sparkling snow fields of Sesvenna with its volcanic rocks, to the limestone island of Piz Starlex. The delightful Rifugio Sesvenna, situated in a beautiful basin at the heart of the Central Massif is an excellent back up point when starting to explore this group.

BOUNDARIES: • to the North: the lower Engadina valley, from Susch to Nauders, to the Resia pass.

GROUP’S GEOGRAPHY: the Sesvenna group is a vast mountainous area divided approximately into Swiss territory for two thirds, Italian for a third and a minimum part lies in Austrian land. The area taken into consideration for this guide book mainly covers the long chain which runs along the border between Italy and Swiss, mainly from north to south, which from the Stelvio pass reaches the Resia pass. There are three subgroups which make up this important se quence of mountains: the subgroup of Piz Umbrail, from Passo Stelvio to Ofenpass in Swiss territory; the Sesvenna Massif, from Ofenpass to Passo Slingia and finally the northern chain which from Passo Slingia reaches Passo Resia.

Highest peak: Piz Sesvenna 3204 m South Tyrol

rif. Sesvenna ) ( () NaudersPassoResiaResia BurgusioSanCuronValentinoMallesSludernoSlingiaRoia Prato allo Stelvio Gomagoi Trafoi))(( delloPassoStelvio Tubre ValVenostaValMonasteroValSlingiaValRoia diLagoResia ValTrafoi Piz Sesvenna Piz Cristanas C. d’Arunda diCimaTella Cima dei Greppi Piz Terza Piz StarlexC. di Grion Piz Lad Piz Nair Dosso di Fuori Dosso di DentroPiz Russenna C. dei Corvi C. di Rasass C. Undici C. Pian del LagoC.Dieci M. ValtesSchadlerLorenziberg Piz Chavalach M.PlagabelladiGlorenza Piz SchafbergSielva P. Rosa M. di Tarres PassoSlingia Spondinga Piz Umbrail Piz Lad Monpiccio Piz Foratrida 1 SESVENNA 2 VENOSTE AND PASSIRIE ALPS 6 ORTLES GROUP 19

Main peaks: Piz Umbrial, Punta Rosa, Monte di Tarres, Piz Sielva, Piz Chavalach.

• Sesvenna Massif: from Ofenpass to Passo Slingia.

• Piz Umbrail Subgroup: from Passo dello Stelvio to Ofenpass.

Piz Plazer 3103 m Piz Sesvenna 3204 m

SUBGROUPS AND PEAKS:

Highest peak: Piz Umbrail

Highest peak: Piz Sesvenna

Main peaks: Muntet, Piz Cotschen, Lorenziberg, Mont Valain, Cima di Tella, Guardaskopf, Cima d’Arunda, Piz Sesvenna, Montrodes.

Cima d’Arunda 2879 mCosteras 2946 m • Northern Chain: from Passo di Slingia until Passo Resia. Highest peak: Rasass Spitz Main peaks: Vernung Spitze, Rasass spitz, Seebodenspitz, Cima Dieci, Cima Undici, Grionkopf, Piz Russenna, Piz Nair, Piz Lad THE ITINERARY: 01. Piz Sesvenna and Piz Foratrida 02. Cima di Tella and Cima dei Greppi 21

Recommended period: summer Difficulty: EE/F easy climbing moves, max II.

Splendid ascent offering great satisfaction. Piz Sesvenna, is well known among ski-mountain eers, and offers a magnificent summer ascent from the Italian side, from the not very well known Val Avigna, without having to place foot on the bare snow field where the normal route of Val Slingia runs up and to Rifugio Sesvenna. The vertical height gain is concentrated along the second part of the itinerary, where, from the Praviert bivouac, a steep trail on scree leads to the start of the final ridge. Up to this point only hiking is involved, instead on the last section, the ridge of beautiful rock offers climbing dif ficulties which reach difficulties up to second grade. The view on the summit is incredible and ranges across from Ortles to Bernina, from Pal la Bianca to the Samnaun and Silvretta groups

01 exposure back up pointsaverage excursion time type of itinerary vertical height gain difficulties 1550EE/F m SOUTH, EAST 7-9 h track and ridge Bivouac “Praviert” 2120 m Sesvenna Group, Subgroup Sesvenna Massif PIZ SESVENNA 3204 m PIZ FORATRIDA 3129 m

Piz Sesvenna, with the nearby Piz Foratrida, lies between Mompiccio on the east and Piz Plazer on the west. It is the highest peak of the entire group and its final ridge runs along the Italian and Swiss border, between South Tyrol and Engadina.

Type of itinerary: the trail is sign posted, and in some sections runs along challenging crushed rocks, the final ridge offers easy scrambling on rock. Gear: normal hiking gear, eventually bring a piece of cord for the final ridge and crampons at the start of the season

Normal route from Val Avigna

Starting point: parking available just below “Mangitsaml” 1750 m Access: from Val Venosta head into Val Monas tero until the inhabited area of Taufers in Mun stertal. In the centre of the village, near a market, follow the evident sign posts on the right for “Val Avigna”, continue along the asphalt road until you are not allowed to continue, near a bridge just below the meadows of “Mangitsalm”.

Average excursion time: 6.00-8.00 hours for the whole excursion.

Ascent: follow signs for “Piz Sesvenna n.1” and along an easy dirt road you reach the nearby Mangitsalm, to quickly reach Mitteralm, where you will find a fun drinking trough. Continue along the dirt road in an open environment and reach a beautiful meadow where the “Praviert” bivouac lies, excellent emergency back up point. From here onwards the track becomes steep and tiring. Take path n.5 right behind the bivou ac and after a really steep section, you reach the upper part of the valley where the continuation of the excursion is evident. With a tiring ascent you reach the saddle between Sesvenna and Foratrida with a beautiful view of what is left of the Sesvenna snow field, tackling a very steep, 22

Piz Sesvenna3204  Muntpitschen-Monpiccio  3161 Foratrida  3129Piz Valdasass  3027 Cima d’Arunda  2879 Guardaskopf2720  Piz3075Starlex  Piz 2768Cotschen  Lorenziberg3016  3062  Valdaschlikopf  2945 Vadret da Sesvenna Scharljoch - P.so della CruschettaFuorclaStarlex Mitteralm MangitsalmPravierthütteStarlexhütteStierberghütte A V I G N ATA L

Cartography: Tabacco 044 -Vinschgau, Mals, Sesvenna-Val Venosta, Malles ForatridaPizandSesvennaPiz>GroupSesvenna

Uphill tracks of the ascent to Piz Foratrida (© Diego Filippi) Ô

debris filled gully, where care is needed to avoid kicking down rocks. Now the best part of the as cent begins, it runs along a very panoramic ridge and on stable rock. Follow the signs which make it possible to find the easiest route with many turns; (offering mainly difficulties of first grade, there are only two sections where the difficulties reach second grade) until the ridge flattens near the summit cross which you shortly reach enjoy ing the amazing view with the full awareness of having reached a wonderful South Tyrolean, 3000 metre high peak. Without rushing, you carefully walk back along the final ridge to the above men tioned saddle, where, to climb up the nearby Piz Foratrida, you head towards east along the visible and marked trail which once over the ridge, low ers down towards a nearby saddle. Keeping close to the rocks, leave the marked trail to head onto Piz Foratrida’s final scree covered slope on the left, which you reach shortly enjoying the splen did views over Sesvenna and Mompiccio.

Muntpitschen 3161 m Monpiccio Piz Foratrida 3129 m

Piz Sesvenna 3204 m Summit of Piz Foratrida (© Diego Filippi) Ó Uphill tracks to Sesvenna (© Diego Filippi) Ô 25

22 Wilder Freiger 3418 m Cima Libera Rif. Cima Libera 3415 m Rif. Biasi al Bicchiere 3191 m metal cables directly lead to the mountain hut. Roughly 5-7 hours of walking from the car. Ascent second day: from the mountain hut go down to the saddle, and once on the glacier, fol low the evident trail which leads to the base of the easy rocky southern ridge of Cima Libera. Up easy rocks, equipped with cables and pegs, reach the fore summit called Signalgipfel (Punta del Segnale) beyond which, with an easy trail and without difficulties, you reach the coveted sum mit. Breath taking views towards all the Austrian and Italian Stubaier Alps. Descent: back down the route taken uphill. Cartography: Tabacco 038 Vipiteno Alpi Breo nie . Uphill tracks (© Diego Filippi) Ô The summit (© Diego Filippi) Ò LiberaCima>PonentediBreonieAlpi 116

42 mountains all round, especially over the nearby monte Cevedale that can be reached with a short traverse along the ridge. In this case high moun tain gear will be required. Descent: back down the route taken uphill. Cartography: Tabacco 08 - Ortles Cevedale Uphill tracks (© Diego Filippi) Ò CevedaleCima>GroupCevedale 222

Zufallspitze 3757 m Cima CevedaleMonte Cevedale 3768 mPasso della Forcola 3032 m

Recommended period: summer, autumn Difficulty: EE/F steep paths and exposed ridge. A short equipped section with fixed ropes on polished rock

224

Ascent: from the rifugio you can easily find signs for Pizzo Tresero. The itinerary, initially at alti tude, leads through pastures and green clearings to the characteristic and striking “Ponte dell’Am icizia”: a narrow gangway which crosses the impetuous Dosegù torrent, formed by the large Dosegù glacier which runs down from Punta San Matteo. Over the bridge, the itinerary becomes steep and tiring along valleys of scree and loose rock, until you reach the large amphitheatre from

Starting point: Rifugio Berni at Passo Gavia, at an altitude of 2541 m Access: from Ponte di Legno, or from Santa Ca terina Valfurva, reach passo Gavia and rifugio Berni, where you park. The beginning of numer ous paths and signs for Pizzo Tresero.

Cevedale Group, Cevedale Massif

PIZZO TRESERO

3594 m

Along the Normal route from Passo Gavia 1050EE/F m 7SOUT-WESTh trail and ridge none

43 exposure back up pointsaverage excursion time type of itinerary vertical height gain difficulties

Elegant summit which rises among Valle dei Forni and Passo Gavia, to the west it shuts off the great basin of Forni. Among the most popular and visited summits of the entire Ortles-Cevedale group. Pizzo Tre sero, directly connected to Cevedale along the famous 13 peaks ridge, it offers from passo Gavia, a truly exciting mountaineering ascent which is extremely satisfactory. The itinerary in fact runs along untouched environment of rare beauty with splendid views towards San Matteo and the large glacier of Dosegù. The final part has mountaineering sections on the glacier, ex posed ridge and a short section on fixed ropes on polished rock. Here a harness and a piece of rope could come in useful, to continue safe ly in case of wet rock at the beginning of the season or to belay the least expert members of the group. For expert mountaineers it does not present any particular difficulties.

Type of itinerary: paths always well sign posted Gear: normal hiking gear, eventually harness and a piece of rope Average excursion time: 3.00-3.30 hours from the car park to the summit.

V A L L E D OSEGÙ SevesoBivacco Rif. Arnaldo Berni Rifugio Bonetta Alpe di Tresero Ponte di Pietra Ponte dell’Alpe diPassoGavia Lago Bianco SforzellinaVedr.della Vedr . diTresero Pizzo3594Tresero  Punta Pedranzini  3599 Punta3132Segnale  Pizzo di Val Umbrina 3222  Biv. Btg. M. Ortles P.ta della3100Sforzellina  P.so Dosegù2999 P.so Sforzellinadella3006 Corno dei Tre Signori  3360

Highest summit: Monte Adamello 3554 m

BOUNDARIES: • to the North: Passo Tonale with Val Presena, passo Presena and Val di Genova, from Ponte di Legno to Pinzolo • to the East: Val Rendena and the Giudicarie valleys, from Pinzolo to Ponte Caffaro • to the South: Val di Caffaro and Passo di Croce Domini, from Ponte Caffaro to Breno in Val Camonica • to the West: Val Camonica, from Breno to Edolo until passo del Tonale

Carè Alto 3462Montem Folletto 3334Dentim del Folletto 3302 m Corno di 3406CaventomCrozzon di Lares 3354 m Ago Mingo 2968 m Crozzon di 3079Folgoridam Lombardia - Trentino 11 - ADAMELLO GROUP

The mountain group of Adamello needs no introduction, it has one of the most important glacial systems in Italy, which is made up of Pian di Neve, an incredible plateau of 18 squared metres, the Adamello glacier, the Lobbia glacier, Larès glacier and many other glaciers of small sizes. An incredible and complete high mountain environment, ideal for all sorts of alpinism, from simple hiking to glacier crossing, to climbing on bold ridges of splendid granite. The Group is infact charactersied by granite rock, specifically granodiorite and tonalite magma rocks which make up the Plutone of Adamello-Presanella, even this is one of the most extensive glaciers of all the Alps. Along the large glaciers it is not rare to find wartime remains, which due to the sudden retreat of the ice emerge arrogantly to remind us that even these beautiful mountains have been the scene of this sad First World War conflict.

)( () () )( () )( () )( )( Edolo diPonteLegno Breno Storo Ponte Caffaro Pieve di Bono Tione Passo di Croce Domini delPassoTonale )( Val di Genova ValDaone M. Frisozzo diReCastello C.ne di Blumone Carè Alto C. Cop di Breguzzo Crozzon di Làres Passo delle Vacche M. Coel M. SpadaloneCornoAlto C. di FolgoridaP.soValdiFumoC.diC.CornoDanerbad’ArnòdiValbonaM.CoronaDossodeiMortiC.CopdiCasaC. CrestaLobbiaLatolaAltaCroceP.so di Campo C.no di Grevo C.M.LevadeC.BuciagaFumoC. del Coster P.soAdamè M. Avio M. Aviolo C.no Baitone CamunoBadilePizzo M.P.saListinodella Rossola M. Rossola diDossonGenova M. MonoccolaM. di Gelo M. Bruffione M. Lavanech M. Frerone M. GuardiaAlta M. Rema M. BoiaGrotta Rossa C. Berbignaga M. Campellio Adamello C. Bianco C.no Miller P.so dell’Adamello C. Gioia C. Prudenzini C. di GanaM. Venerocolo C. di Salimmo M. Mandrone M. Marser P. della Regina C. di Boazzo C di PlemC.no delle RocciaGranateBaitone Corno di Lago Scuro Passo Presena PrudenziniP.so ValPresena CarisoloPinzolo Val Saviore Cedègolo Ago Mingo rif. Ai Caduti rif. Carè Alto rif. Trivena rif. G. Rosa rif. Mandrone Mariarif. Francoe rif. Cai Lissone rif.Prudenzinirif.Garibaldirif. Gnutti rif. Bedole rif. Tonolini rif. Aviolo rif. De Marie rif. Val di Fumo 16 PICCOLE DOLOMITI BRESCIANE 11 ADAMELLO GROUP OROBICALPS 17 TREMALZO GROUP14 CADRIA GROUP 7 SOBRETTA-GAVIAGROUP 12 PRESANELLA GROUP13BRENTADOLOMITES 315

Corno Miller 3373 m Monte Adamello 3539 m Corno di Salarno 3298 m Corno Bianco 3427 m

Corno dell’Adamè 3275 m Monte Fumo 3409 m Anticima del Monte Fumo 3353 m Crozzon di Lares 3354Cornom di Cavento 3406 m

VaglianaCimaandGrandePietra>DolomitesBrenta 438

Caluclate roughly another 2 hours for the de scent.

Descent: from cima Vagliana follow the tracks which first towards north, then towards west, drop down along the grassy slopes, until they in tercept path Costanzi. Follow this to get back to rifugio Soppani or more easily, to rifugio Graffer.

Access: from Madonna di Campiglio to Passo Campo Carlo Magno, large pay and display car park and cable car starting point for rifugio Stop pani at Passo del Grostè

Starting point: rifugio Stoppani, top cable car station Grostè, at an altitude of 2438 m

Cartography: Tabacco 053 Dolomiti di Brenta Climbing up to Cima Vagliana (© Diego Filippi) ÔTowards Pietra Grande (© Diego Filippi) Ô

Ascent: from rifugio Stoppani take path Gustavo Vidi n.390 for Bocchetta dei Tre Sassi. Go round the first rocky step, fully facing east, the path continues along the ridge until a large cairn. Here the path turns to the left and traverses at alti tude all the western side of Pietra Grande. From the cairn leave path Vidi and continue faithfully along the grassy ridge until you find the large metal plaque which marks the beginning of the traverse. The first part of the ascent, and that is until the summit to Pietra Grande, is character ized by a passage inside a cave and by overcom ing a deep canyon with 3 abseils, of roughly 20 metres each. Beyond the saddle, or the traverse of the summit, it does not present any particular

difficulties. A few abseils are needed to reach the pass which separates Pietra Grande from cima Vagliana, beyond the pass easy rocks and grass lead to cima Vagliana, characterised by a large metal flag. Roughly 2 hours and a half from Pi etra Grande.

92 Pietra Grande 2936 mVaglianaCimaandGrandePietra>RidgeOrestealongTraverse 440

Cima Brenta 3150 m Cima Mandron 3040 m 441

110 Cima Rocca 1090 m Bivacco Arcioni 858 m RoccaCimaandCapiCima>GroupCadria 510

Cima Capi 909 m

for Cima Capi and for the ferrata Susatti, being careful not to follow the Laste path n.471, the de scent route. Near Cima di Capi leave path n.470 and take n.405 which shortly leads to the start of the ferrata. The equipped route, which is never tiring, follows an old war time path. Many and characteristic emplacements are found on the way. Once you reach the summit of Cima Capi the ferrata runs slightly down until it reaches a carved out section. Here, going left, following the equipped path Mario Foletti, it is possible to reach the Arcioni bivouac in 40 minutes, excellent escape route if the weather is uncertain. Continuing along the Susatti ferrata, always along path n.405m you walk along the east face of Cima Rocca and you reach the junction for Bocca Pasumer, path 405 bis. Along this continue following signs for cima Rocca. At the end, a few equipped sections lead to the solitary summit.

RoccaCimaandCapiCima>GroupCadria

Cartography: Tabacco 071 Prealpi Garde sane-Tremalzo

110

512

Descent: the descent is tackled along the op posite side of the ascent and there is no lack of short equipped sections. Shortly you reach the Arcioni bivouac and the church of San Giovanni. From the bivouac go down along the equipped path of Laste, and along this, join up with path n.470, already taken during the approach.

EASY ALPINISM in TRENTINO-SOUTH TYROL

Articles inside

Presentation

03. Palla Bianca

Symbols and Technical Introduction