Di roccia di sole - Crags by Versante Sud srl

MASSIMO CAPPUCCIO – GIUSEPPE GALLO

DI ROCCIA DI SOLE

CRAGS

Climbing in Sicily

EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD | COLLANA LUOGHI VERTICALI | CLIMBING

iCLIMBING APP

FREE DOWNLOAD

First edition December 2008 Fifth edition January 2022 ISBN 978 88 854 75 854 Copyright © 2022 VERSANTE SUD – Milano, via Rosso di San Secondo, 1 Tel. +39 02 7490163 – www.versantesud.it All translation, reproduction, adaptation and eletronic registration, either totally or partially, by any methods, are rights reserved for all countries.

Cover image

Giulia Bernardini, Stockholm - La Combriccola del Blasco ©Massimo Cappuccio

Text

Massimo Cappuccio and Giuseppe Gallo

English translation

Alexandra Ercolani

Drawing and topos

Chiara Benedetti

Maps

Tommaso Bacciocchi. © Mapbox, © Open Street Map

Symbols

Tommaso Bacciocchi

Layout

Davide Vagheggi

Printing

Tipolitografia Pagani – Passirano (BS), Italy

Km ZERO

ook is This guideband locally homegroprwn oduced

ZERO miles!

This is a “zero-miles” guidebook. It’s locally produced! It has been compiled by local authors, who live and promote climbing in the area reviewed. Climbers benefit from local authors: – locals know the latest news and updates – locals don’t promote only the most “commercial” spots – locals invest the revenues from the guidebook in equipping new crags Local authors promote and respect their area: – they review only the spots where climbing is allowed – they pay attention in the same way to any different spot – they meaningfully interact with local actors

Note

Climbing is a potentially dangerous sport in which participation is entirely at your own risk. All the information in this guide has been updated based upon information at the time of publication, however it is vital to evaluate every situation yourself before placing yourself in a life threatening situation or to seek the advice of experienced and qualified individuals.

Km ZERO This guidebook is homegrown and locally produced

2% of the proceeds from this guidebook are re-invested in Equipment for re-bolting routes and crags

MASSIMO CAPPUCCIO GIUSEPPE GALLO

DI ROCCIA DI SOLE CRAGS Climbing in Sicily

EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD

Index Climbing in Sicily . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Thanks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 The most difficulte routes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Reading scheme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

CATANIA

Etna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 01. Salto del Cane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 02. Acqua Rocca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 03. Puntalazzo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 04. Salice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 05. Sarbaggio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 06. Rocca Canalaci . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

SIRACUSA

16 18 22 26 28 30 36

07. Tonnara Santa Panagia . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Monti Climiti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 08. Panettone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 09. Bunker & N’Catalina . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 10. Ziroman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 11. Curvone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 12. Pantalica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 13. Cassaro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 14. Anapo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 Buccheri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 15. Gole della Stretta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 16. Sant’Andrea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 17. Servolare . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 Canicattini . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Cava Bagni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 18. Powerbank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 19. Glashaus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 20. Schwargenegger . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 21. Fuchsberger . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 22. Jungle Book . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 Contrada Alfano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 23. Antro dell’Eco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 24. Nome e Cognome . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 25. Paradox Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 26. Pisciotta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 27. Contralfano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 28. Sottalfano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 29. Grotta Re Lucertola . . . . . . . . . . . 136

Contrada Cavadonna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30. Workaholic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31. Lost Place . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32. Cavadonna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33. Arena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34. Arance Rosse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35. Cugno Lupo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36. Cava Campana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37. La Prua - Cava Sture . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38. Lo Specchio - Cava Grande . . . . . . . . Rosolini . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cava Granati . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39. Timpa Rossa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40. Zona Rossa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41. Capra Rossa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42. Onda Anomala . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43. Secret Garden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

RAGUSA

Cava d’Ispica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44. Pernamazzone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45. Ascensore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46. Piazzetta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47. Balcone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48. 2020 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49. Nemesi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50. Catacombe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51. Wild . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52. Warriors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Modica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cava Gisana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53. Pandora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54. Umpa Lumpa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55. Monkey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56. Ambiguità . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57. Orient Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58. Hollywood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59. Iaddinara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60. Malvaxia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61. The Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62. Cimitero . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

138 140 142 146 154 158 160 166 170 172 176 178 180 184 186 190 194 200 202 206 207 208 210 212 216 220 224 228 230 232 236 240 244 250 254 258 262 264 270

TRAPANI

San Vito lo Capo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63. Rocca Firriato . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64. Nuova Ossesione . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65. Cattedrale nel Deserto . . . . . . . . . . 66. Il Grande Occhio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Scogliera di Salinella Nord . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67. White Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68. Spiaggetta di Calamancina . . . . . 69. Zoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70. Grotta di Calamancina . . . . . . . . 71. Scotties World . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72. Campo Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73. Parco Giochi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74. Grotta del Cavallo & Grotta dei Santi . . . . . . . . . . . 75. Orange Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76. Grotta di Atze . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Scogliera di Salinella Centro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77. Fakiro’s Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78. Bunker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79. Canalino e Grottino della Palma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80. Grottini . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81. Portella delle Vacche . . . . . . . . . Scogliera di Salinella Sud . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82. Campeggio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83. Sinistra Pietraia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84. Pineta + Grotta Pineta . . . . . . . . . 85. Scomparto Rifiuti . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86. Torre Isulidda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87. Seagull . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88. Far Side . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89. Garden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90. Valanga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91. Placca di Macari . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92. Grotta Perciata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93. Lost World . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94. Castelluzzo Outdoor Club . . . . . . . . 95. Crown of Aragon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96. Cinema Paradiso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Custonaci . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97. Never Sleeping Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . 98. Parco Cerriolo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99. Grotta Cerriolo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100. Point Break . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101. Antro dei Ciclopi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

278 280 284 288 294 298 300 302 304 306 310 312 316 318 322 324 326 328 332 338 342 344 352 354 360 364 272 376 382 386 388 392 394 396 398 400 402 410 414 416 420 428 430 434

PALERMO

Monte Pellegrino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102. Lo Schiavo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103. Pablo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104. Valdesi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105. Mariella Crack’n’Up . . . . . . . . . . . . 106. Preistoria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Monte Gallo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107. Kemonia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108. Bauso Rosso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109. Grotta degli Svizzeri . . . . . . . . . . . . 110. Uqbar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111. Terrasini . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112. Pizzo Nicolosi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Madonie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Caltavuturo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113. Cabeci . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114. Gazzara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115. Rocca di Sciara 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . Collesano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116. Settore Grotte . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117. Settore Contrada Croce . . . . . . .

MESSINA

118. San Fratello . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rocche del Castro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119. Nebrodi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120. Artino’s Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121. Rocca di Dante . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122. Rocca Giannina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123. Stockholm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

442 446 452 454 466 472 476 478 480 490 492 494 496 500 502 504 508 518 520 522 524 528 532 534 536 540 542 546

Bouldering in Sicily . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 552 DWS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 555

CLIMBING IN SICILY The region of Sicily is mainly mountainous, characterized by Mount Etna, Europe’s highest active volcano, which with its 3300 metres overlooks all the other peaks and mountainous groups on the island. As well as Etna the main reliefs are spread out along the mountain ridge which runs along the island’s northern coastline. This chain defined by the following mountain groups, listed from east to west: Peloritani, Nebrodi, Madonie, Monti del Palermitano and Monti del Trapanese. The peaks of these groups almost reach 2000 metres, and alternate mountainous areas of thick woods with other areas which are harsh and barren. Not all these groups offer attractive rock faces, the most interesting mountains in climbing terms are no doubt the ones found in the western section between Palermo and Trapani, apart from the beautiful and isolated Rocche del Crasto which rise up over the Nebrodi, which are further east. Another interesting area of Sicily climbing-wise is made up of the Monti Iblei plateau situated on the south east side of the island. Many canyons, up to 200 metres deep, offer great potential for climbing with dozens of beautiful well bolted crags. Imposing and majestic, Mt Etna does not present any particular rock faces for climbing, except for the small sectors described in this guide book, which nonetheless are interesting. From the morphology of Sicilian reliefs and their rocky structures, one can deduce that the areas suitable for climbing are situated along the island’s eastern and northern coastline. This is where most of the climbing centres are found, in terms of the already bolted crags or other rock faces for multi pitch routes. Even if inferior in size other areas present rocky outcrops which are equipped for climbing, but they represent isolated sectors compared to the areas mentioned above. Over the last few years there has been a marked increase in the number of climbing routes all over the island, thanks to the work of many bolt-

ers, both local and foreign, who with passion have never stopped discovering and equipping new areas, or re-bolting and renewing historical sectors. In addition publications, meetings, festivals and, last but not least, this current guide book help make climbing in Sicily increasingly widespread. Climbing schools, mountain guides with their clients or simply groups of friends who choose to come climbing in Sicily are definitely on the increase. TRAVELLING IN SICILY A trip to Sicily, no matter how fanatical a climber may be, cannot stop you plunging into the Sicilian reality, the proverbial hospitality of its people, the thousand tastes and flavours of its food, the enchanting glimpses of its old town centres and the beauty of its sea. An invitation also to visit its numerous inland villages, still experiencing a rural lifestyle of long ago, but if you don’t love the bucolic country life, don’t miss the chance then of the city night life. Extremely beautiful historic centres in Palermo, Catania, Syracuse and Ragusa have lots of night clubs open until dawn attracting lively crowds. Don’t be afraid to stay out late at night in the cities and remember to use your common sense in every situation. In many crags you can camp at the base of the walls, but some of these are on private land, so if you meet the owners or any local people it is a good idea to ask their permission and exchange a few words so that you can be accepted as friends rather than invaders and nobody will bother you. In Sicily much of the water sources are dependent on rainfall so are dry for most of the year, remember this when you are planning to camp away from a campsite and need water. Anyway it is easy to replenish this precious asset in the little mountain villages, where there are usually fountains. Remember that in many protected areas, or in the reforested areas managed by the Forestry Corps, it is forbidden to light fires, a small camp fire out of control can burn vast areas and represent a danger for you as well as for many others. Limit

your fire, where it is allowed, to cooking and don’t leave it unattended. Always be careful, especially in hot weather, of the very annoying ticks, present in almost all the crags and which can also cause serious health problems. Always check the place where you stop, where you leave your clothes, and periodically during the day check over your body. The removal of a tick requires a minimum of accuracy and it is worth reading up on what action has to be taken. If you have a fever or feel unwell after being bitten it is advisable to go to the nearest hospital for the appropriate treatment. Like every situation with different aspects, both good and bad, even in Sicily you might have to turn up your nose at some things, wild cementification, abandoned rubbish and devastating fires in areas of valuable naturalistic interest, but this too is part of the contradictions of this world. LOGISTIC NOTES Sicily is the largest region in Italy, and surely for the majority of Italian climbers it is the farthest away. If the long distance discourages people from weekend climbing it encourages instead those who want to combine climbing with a trip to a land that has a lot to offer. Sicily means a culture of thousands of years of civilization, historical monuments and archaeological remains amongst the most beautiful in Italy, popular traditions made of parties and folklore, delicious cooking specialities, but also the warmth and hospitality of a population which is always willing to help tourists and foreigners. And if this is not enough for the most fanatical of climbers, then consider the fact that you climb in shorts and t-shirt on beautiful crags overlooking the sea, even during the cold winter months. A visit to the most beautiful crags of the island requires at least a week. If you only have a few days available, we recommend you visit only one area among the most developed, for example Palermo (where you can reach the crags even by public transport), San Vito Lo Capo, and the crags in the provinces of Syracuse and Ragusa. If you plan a long period, you will be able to visit the most interesting places and plan a tour of the island. For an itinerant trip we recommend you have a car; apart from Palermo, the majority of the climbing sites are not near any towns

and are too difficult to reach by public transport. Keep in mind that moving from one end of the island to the other you need to cover many hundreds of kilometres, for example from Ragusa to San Vito Lo Capo there are roughly 350 km! To plan a tour of the crags you can think of travelling along the coastal road, starting off from Trapani ending up in Ragusa or viceversa. TRANSPORTATION Sicily is easily reached by all means of transport. The airports of Palermo and Catania are excellently connected with national and international flights, and during many periods of the year airline companies offer convenient fares, making it a fast and cheap flight. Arriving via sea, the ports of Palermo, Messina, and Catania are connected to the major Italian ports and some foreign ports. On internet you will find all the up to date information on ferry services and the various routes to take. For moving internally the viability is guaranteed by roads and motorways (most of them are toll free) that connect most of the main centres. An efficient transportation network amongst the main cities of the province by means of comfortable and fast buses guarantees easy travelling internally, while the train is difficult to use due to the long time taken to cover distances between the various sections. CLIMATE Sicily is the hottest region of Italy, and has the least rainfall, during winter the temperatures are mild along the coast and harsh in the interior, summer is hot and windy along the coast, while torrid heat characterises the interior of the island. The majority of the rainfall is concentrated during late autumn and between winter and the start of spring. Sicily is the ideal place for those who want to continue climbing throughout winter and feel like touching sun kissed rock, as only one can do in summer. During the winter, even if in some areas it is bitter cold, especially in the internal mountainous parts, it is normal to find long periods of good weather, when it is possible to climb in t shirt and shorts. During the opposite season, summer, it is instead advisable not to climb in July and August when temperatures and humidity reach levels which

are far too high to climb in. Nevertheless even during summer, depending on the exposure or the time of day, it is possible to climb a couple of pitches. Spring and autumn are the best seasons, because of mild temperatures and many hours of daylight, you can even have a swim in the sea after a day spent climbing on the walls. CARTOGRAPHY The “Sicily” Touring Club map, scale 1:200.000 is detailed and up to date enough to easily reach all the areas mentioned in this guide. For those who need more detailed maps the I.G.M (military geographical institute) maps with a scale of 1:25.000, cover the whole Italian territory, but often they do not have recent updates. Some maps of 1:50.000 scale edited by other institutes, show the territory of parks and protected areas in great detail but they do not cover the climbing areas. USEFUL ADDRESSES A few useful websites and Facebook pages which give you updated information as well as helping you find the contacts of Sicilian climbers. Web grupporocciasiracusa.it ymcaclimbingsanvito.it sanvitoclimbingfestival.it scalart.it scuolaestremosud.it scuolabonomo.altervista.org verticalclimbingcentersiracusa.it Facebook Arrampikatipassa Bobo’s Extream Team Climbers Siciliani Climbing House San Vito lo Capo Gruppo Roccia Siracusa San Vito Climbing Festival Scalart Palermo Scinni I dduocu Taormina Vertical Club DWS Sicily Vertical Frame

INDOOR CLIMBING GYMS IN SICILY Siracusa Vertical Climbing Center, Via Padova 26, Siracusa - 340 7308976 Catania Etna Climbing Ragalna - Istituto G. Marconi, Via Paternò – Ragalna (CT) - 3358270301 Cus Catania, Viale Andrea Doria 6, Catania 095 336186 Servolare - Nicolosi Catania Ragusa Red Rock Ragusa, Via Forlanini 36, Ragusa 351 8608118 Palermo Scalart, via Sampolo 8 – Palermo – 3281054472 Free Climbing Palermo – via Cirrincione 63 – Palermo – 328 484 1629 Trapani ASD Bosco Scorace - Fulgatore (TP) MOUNTAIN RESCUE A few of the crags listed in this guide book are situated in wild areas and with long and arduous access. For this reason and any eventual request for assistance must bear in mind that the main operative centres are based in the city of Palermo for western Sicily and the stations of Etna for eastern Sicily, two areas well covered, and where any rescue operation in the nearby areas can be tackled in a short time. Most of the rescue operations are undertaken by helicopter, but bear in mind that if your request comes from areas far from the rescue centre mentioned above, especially if at night or during bad weather, which prevents the use of the helicopter, the operation will take longer. The reference number for emergency calls is the same as the rest of Italy: 112, but we recommend to specify the exact type of accident, specifically requesting the intervention of the mountain rescue teams present both in western and eastern Sicily. This will avoid other organizations connected with mountain rescue getting involved. Other useful numbers for mountain rescue: For the central-western part of Sicily 334-9510149 this is the direct number for Palermo’s rescue team, active 24/7; For the central-eastern part of Sicily 095-7916069 Soccorso Alpino Guardia di Finanza Nicolosi-Etna, works 24 hours.

REGIONAL PARKS AND PROTECTED AREAS Many of the climbing areas are inside parks, natural reserves and protected areas of which there are many in Sicily. We will limit ourselves to provide the main addresses, while other useful information can be found visiting the following web site: www.parks.it/regione/sicila/ Riserva naturale di Monte Pellegrino: V.le Diana snc Palermo tel. 091/6716066. Parco dell’Etna: Vie Etnea 107/a Nicolosi (CT) tel. 095/821111. Parco dei Nebrodi: Via U. Foscolo 1, Alcara Li Fusi (ME) tel. 0941/793904-5 Parco delle Madonie: Corso P. Agliata 16, Petraia Sottana (PA) tel. 0921/684011. CAMPSITES AND HOSTELS Apart from a few isolated areas where you can sleep in your tent, the remainder of the crags are all close to large inhabited areas where you can find a number of solutions for overnight stays. Campsites, hostels, hotels and bed and breakfasts for any kind of budget can be easily contacted even through internet, so there is no use listing them all as they will soon be out of date. Anyway, in each chapter under “back up points” you will find some useful suggestions. BACK UP POINTS We have given a few recommendations and indications in the chapters which describe the climbing areas. GEAR NEEDED All the routes present in the Sicilian crags are bolted sports routes. Bolts, resin bolts etc in steel are used for anchor points including the ones to abseil down, which are always used connecting the two points. For years a “plaisir” style has been consolidated in the Sicilian crags and rarely you will have to deal with long run outs from one bolt to another. Therefore it is enough to have normal climbing gear with you: shoes, harness, chalk one single rope, at least 60 metres long, in a few cases it is best to use 70 or 80 metres, a set of quickdraws, up to15 quickdraws for longer routes, a self belaying device, a sling and a couple of locking carabiners for setting up an anchor point when abseiling down. The use of a helmet is always recommended. During winter the temperatures can be surprisingly cold

therefore bring warm clothing. But at the same time do not forget a good supply of water when it is sunny. CRITERIA FOR CHOOSING THE SELECTED CRAGS In selecting areas and routes, we have taken into account the following criteria: natural beauty of an area, how well the route is bolted, how easy it is to access the area and problems related to prohibition or restriction of access to an area. Tiny climbing sites scattered around have not been included due to their limited interest, due to the scarce amount of routes and the worn out bolts. The few multipitch routes described in this guide book are an exception since they have been included in the single pitch sectors such as Valdesi in Palermo and Cattedrale nel deserto at san Vito lo Capo. They have been totally bolted using modern sports climbing criteria and they do not require the use of any other gear except for quickdraws, carabiners a few Kevlar threads and slings and belaying device. WARNING ON CLIMBING IN CRAGS CLOSE TO THE SEA Warning on climbing on crags close to the sea The problems caused to stainless steel equipment in marine environments is well known by now. After accidents caused due to the sudden breaking of stainless steel anchors, which in appearance seemed to be in good condition, the problem has now been put under the magnifying glass. This is why international committees have been established, undertaking technical studies, conferences and debates on the sector. The companies, the first to be singled out, have already given the first response to the market, producing anchor points in stainless steel dedicated specifically to equipping rock in marine environments (marine steel 316L). But to this day, titanium seems to be the best product for bolting in this specific environment. The concern remains for all those routes bolted years ago, when the problem was unknown and it was believed that normal stainless steel would be sufficient. In Sicily a few crags, as well as multi pitch routes, are affected by the problem mentioned above. Generally the areas which are damaged

the most are overhanging areas which are not subjected to the “washing off” action of sea salt by rain water. Special attention needs to be given to the crags of San Vito lo Capo, Monte Gallo. The most active climbers/bolters on the island have already started to get busy to solve the problem by re-bolting entire sectors and multipitch routes using certified marine STAINLESS steel material, but still, many routes have “old” stainless steel bolts. We recommend you get the necessary information from the local climbers (see INTERNET box) on the current state of the sector’s protection and the multipitch routes you wish to climb, and when possible check the conditions yourself, both visually from the

ground and even manually by testing the protection before hanging on to it. We have highlighted with a symbol all crags that may have damaged anchors due to salt residue and we have marked, where known, the re-bolting with certified marine stainless steel equipment of certain routes.

THANKS It has not been easy, even for this new edition, to compile, catalogue and update the climbing sectors of an entire region, the largest in Italy. Without the very precious help of our many climber and bolter friends this work would have never happened. A sincere and affectionate thank you goes to Stefano Anile, Johnny Bonaventura, Dario di Gabriele, David Gallo, Giorgio Iurato, Cristian Leube, Stefan Low, Daniele Pascandopoli, Lorenzo Di Stefano, Antonio Poidomani, Gabriele Puccia, Marco Puleo, Livio Rabito, Sergio Soraci for the crags of eastern Sicily. Daniele Arena, Davide Catalano and Turi Poma for the updates on the area of San Vito lo Capo and Trapani. Mirko Cangiamila, Rosario Ferrante and Giacomo Talluto for the sectors of Palermo. Simon Alberto Piera and Roberto Zampino for the DWS section. Stefano Anile, Davide Catalano and Davide Scornavacca for the bouldering section. To all our climber friends for posing for the photos in this guide book especially Giulia Bernardini and her parents Paolo and Cristina for their patience on taking the cover photo.

Cristian Leube, Casa di Cristian - Cava Campana (© M. Cappuccio)

THE MOST DIFFICULT ROUTES NAME

CRAG

ROUTE OPENER

Climb for Life

Grotta Cerriolo

Adam Ondra

8c+

Fedeli alla linea

Pandora

Dario Di Gabriele

8c/+

Fuck System

Onda Anomala

Dario di Gabriele

Pazza idea Lockdown

Cassaro Belvedere, Cava Grande

Dario Di Gabriele Dario Di Gabriele

8b+

Misery non deve morire Superfly Mr. Mean King Line Il bracconiere The doors Fedeli alla linea L1 Harakiri

Hollywood Cugno Lupo Re Lucertola Sinistra Pietraia Cassaro Eremo c. campana Pandora Onda anomala

Dario Di Gabriele Cristian Leube Christian Leube Mauro Calibani Dario Di Gabriele Dario Di Gabriele Dario Di Gabriele Dario Di Gabriele

8b/+

Hysteria Spirito libero

Onda anomala Umpa lumpa

Cristian Brenna Dario Di Gabriele

Thai Lampu siccu Artista di roccia Evolution man Karma Mezzogiorno in penombra Niente torna mai This is city killing me Dragon trainer Psyco Cccp Nettuno variante Shemale’n Da Hood Mio Cugino Anchor Punch Robin Variante Batman The Fan Caveman La Combriccola del Blasco

Ambiguita Monkey Pernamazzone Onda anomala Nemesi Pandora Umpa Lumpa Pandora Pandora Hollywood Malvaxia Stockholm Cava Donna L’esorcista Bauso Cugno Lupo Cala Mancina The Wall Cavadonna Stockholm

Dario Di Gabriele Dario Di Gabriele Dario Di Gabriele Dario Di Gabriele Dario Di Gabriele Dario Di Gabriele Dario Di Gabriele Dario Di Gabriele Dario Di Gabriele Dario Di Gabriele Dario Di Gabriele Mattia Bernardini Christian Leube Vincent Degirolamo Christian Leube Mauro Calibani Dario di Gabriele Cristian Leube Mattia Bernardini

Tutti pazzi per Rino

Gole della Stretta

Mattia Bernardini

READING SCHEME beauty

ÙÙÙÙ

splendid

ÙÙÙÙ

worthy

ÙÙÙÙ

nice

ÙÙÙÙ

not exciting

This description takes into account a number of factors which include, besides the beauty of the rock and the pitches, the surrounding environment, how peaceful the area is and anything that can make a crag splendid, beautiful, deserving or not at all interesting. This evaluation is personal and individual.

equipment

ÙÙÙÙ

perfect

ÙÙÙÙ

good

ÙÙÙÙ

pay attention

ÙÙÙÙ

terrible

The description takes into account the distance between each protection placed and their position in relation to the route.

parking

comfort at base

ÙÙÙÙ

comfortable

ÙÙÙÙ

uncomfortable

ÙÙÙÙ

take care

ÙÙÙÙ

tie in

General indication which evaluates how comfortable the terrain is where one stands to belay. In some crags, even if the majority of the bases below each pitch are comfortable, for some it might be necessary to tie in or balance on a small terrace.

ÙÙÙÙ

very good

ÙÙÙÙ

good

ÙÙÙÙ

sufficient

ÙÙÙÙ

difficult

This indication is useful when planning any transfers, especially in case there are many people with more than one car: if the car park is not big enough or difficult to find we recommend to use the least possible number of cars or to use public transport.

number of visitors

ÙÙÙÙ

very low

ÙÙÙÙ

low

ÙÙÙÙ

medium

ÙÙÙÙ

high

This indication refers to the average amount of people found at the crag during the recommended period and with ideal climatic conditions.

falling rocks

IN ALL CRAGS THERE IS THE CHANCE OF ROCK FALL. THE USE OF A HELMET IS ALWAYS RECOMMENDED BOTH FOR THOSE CLIMBING AND FOR THOSE BELAYING! In crags where this danger is greater and more concrete, the indication YES highly recommends the use of a helmet.

approach time

The indications of how long an approach walk is on foot from the cark park, to the base of the crag or the first sector you reach, is calculated at an average walking speed considering even the weight of the gear (rope, back pack, quick draws, climbing shoes, water, clothes etc). The length of time can vary on the basis of the climatic conditions and terrain. For example in late autumn, some paths may be totally covered by leaves so as well as losing the tracks, walking becomes slower. Same thing happens in case of steep access during hot summer days under the beating sun. The indication is personal and variable depending on other factors which can affect the times of the approach walk.

fit for family

beginners school

This indication highlights the crags which have the ideal pitches for beginners or for anyone climbing for the “first time”. The bolts on these routes are usually very safe and placed nearby even if some exceptions might exist.

This indication should not be confused with the presence or not of easier pitches but simply to make it clear if it is possible to reach the base of this crag with small children or if a constant control is needed on the part of the adults. Many crags are often not ideal for families or small children due to exposed ledges, difficult or dangerous approach walks, rock fall, or the presence of a busy road or other objective dangers. BRINGING CHILDREN INTO A NATURAL ENVIRONMENT IS NONETHELESS RISKY. THE AUTHOR’S INDICATION ONLY TRIES TO HELP ADULTS FIND THE AREAS WITH MINOR OBJECTIVE RISKS. IT IS OBVIOUSLY UP TO THE PARENTS THE FINAL ASSESMENT OF THE AREA IS THE CONSTANT ASSISTANCE TO MINORS.

QRcode parking

Is it difficult to find the car park? With a simple scan of this code through one of the many available apps it is possible to activate the navigator through your smartphone which will lead you directly to the car park. The coordinates refer to Google maps.

QRcode base CRAGS

INTERNATIONAL LAND-AIR RESCUE SIGNS FOR HELICOPTERS AND PLANES WE NEED HELP Land-air signs

Red flare or light

Yes – Yes WE DON’T NEED HELP Land-air signs

In spite of the effort to make the accesses to the car parks and crags as clear as possible, if it is very difficult to understand where to go, just scan this code you will be able to visualise the crag’s position on Google or other maps.

No – no

Red Equipment / Red flag Square shape 100x100cm. Red central circle (60cm diameter) White ring 15 cm

CATANIA

Fabrizio La Carrubba, Parete del Diccosauro (©M. Cappuccio)

Catania

ETNA Imposing and majestic, visible on the clearest days from hundreds of kilometres. A basal perimeter of 250 km with a surface of 1200 km2, a height which almost reaches 3350 metres, frequent eruptions and spectacular explosive activities. A continuous alternance of natural environments made up of lava deserts but also thriving woods, deep valleys and steep rock faces, just to mention a few. A natural attraction which attracts thousands of tourists every year, Etna is the largest volcano in Europe and the second one among the most active in the world, Regional Natural Park declared UNESCO world heritage. This short introduction is just a reminder to climbers who intend visiting the following crags, not to miss the chance of making a short visit to the slopes of the volcano thanks to how easy it is to reach the two tourist stations of southern Etna and Piano Provenzana north. Or even to go on a long trek thanks to the many paths present and why not try the ascent to the summit craters only if the volcanic activity allows it. Thanks to the presence of many Mountain Guides, volcanological and excursion guides who operate across the territory it is possible to get up to date news on and plan an eventual guided tour to discover the vulcano’s remotest corners. Further information can be obviously found at the headquarters of the Regional Park and on internet. Etna is a large natural park where it is possible to go trekking and go on guided bike excursions, ski mountaineering but also speleology and last but not least climbing. In recent years local climbers have dedicated their time to discovering and improving small sites where, thanks to a few special rock formations especially of basalt type it is possible to climb in a unique environment in southern Italy. As well as the sectors described in this guide book, on the eastern side of the volcano it is possible to climb at altitude and reach Dicco dei Dinosauri (see photo pag.17) this is a site which is being developed and only has two routes currently and it has a long approach walk. For up to date information on this site ask Rif. Citelli ACCESS Etna is situated just north of the city of Catania. It can be easily reached along different main and secondary roads. The main motorways are A18 Messina-Catania, with turns offs at Fiumefreddo (for Etna north) and Acireale (for Etna south). Coming from the A19 motorway Palermo-Catania, take the tangenziale west towards Messina, exit at the junction of Gravina and continue towards Etna following sign posts. CRAGS:

Bronte

01. Salto del Cane 02. Acqua Rocca 03. Puntalazzo 04. Salice 05. Sarbaggio 06. Rocca Canalaci

Linguaglossa 05

Rif. Sapienza Funivia 03 02

Nicolosi Paternò

Gia

rre

M. Cappuccio, Back Door (© Giusy Treccarichi)

Catania > Etna

SALTO DEL CANE On the southern side of the volcano, a few kilometres from the towns of Nicolosi and Pedara, you will find this small sector wedged inside a true natural jewel which is the crater of Salto del Cane, which formed during an eruption which came by around 150 a.c. and its lava flows arrived and covered what is currently Acireale. A beautiful area and very interesting for its nature and geology. There are various paths which run along this area allowing for beautiful walks. The one which runs along the edge of the crater should not be missed, it lets you enjoy a view all around the different volcanic environment from dense woods to lava deserts. To reach the rock faces where you climb you need to gradually climb to the bottom of the ancient crater, where you will find yourself immersed in an enchanted landscape, where the one noise is nature’s. Few routes but they all have character, on a type of rock where not always do the moves feel intuitive. There is the plan to extend the project by opening other roues on the walls in front, always inside the crater. Due to the altitude and the exposure, it is best not to come here during winter. Instead this place is ideal during hot summer afternoons.

1400 m altitude

NORTH - EAST exposure

ÙÙÙÙ beauty

ÙÙÙÙ bolting

ÙÙÙÙ tranquillity

ÙÙÙÙ comfort

ÙÙÙÙ parking

Basalt type of rock

10 min

SALTO DEL CANE

approach

Etna SOUTH

Yes - No beginners

Yes - No

Nicolosi

climbing possible when it rains

S.P. Salto del Cane

Yes - No

via Monte Po

for families

S.P. 141

10 1

2 2

3 1

< 4b 4c 5a 5b 5c 6a 6b 6c 7a 7b 7c 8a 8b 8c 9a ?

Rifugio Salto del Cane

Pedara

Tarderia

ACCESS From the square of the Pedara basilica climb up towards Etna following the S.P. 141 towards Tarderia. After roughly 3,5 km turn left (via Monte Po) following signs for Etna south until you reach the junction with the state road. Salto del Cane where you turn right. Drive up for about 3,1 km and once you reach the left hair pin bend, take a road on the right uphill, first of asphalt then dirt, take a road on the right uphill, first of all asphalt then dirt, which after 800m leads to the small opening where you park. Continue on foot towards Rif. Salto del Cane, and shortly before this, on the left, climb up the evident trail which leads to the crater. The rock faces are visible on the left. 10 minutes from the car. Crag bolted by M. Puleo.

Marco Puleo, 1669 (© M. Cappuccio)

01 Catania > Etna Salto del Cane

1. WITHOUT NAME

12m Featured wall, on a spur just before the sector, not recommended 2. BOCCA EFFIMERA 7a+ 15m Bouldery oblique traverse 3. JUMP OF THE DOG 6c 18m Compact wall smeary climbing and final corner 4. VULCANO 6c+ 18m Starting slab, traverse on crack and final slightly overhanging wall 5. SCHIENA DELL’ASINO 6b+ 18m Starting slab, then wall on edges 6. LA MONTAGNOLA 6b 18m Slightly overhanging on good holds, traverse and physical final section 7. MAGMA NL 20m Slightly overhanging wall on small holds 8. 1669 7b+ 15m Overhanging start on cracks, then up high follow the corner. Beyond the corner continue until the successive anchor on the right with bouldery crux (NL) 9. IDDA 7a 15m Beautiful technical pitch 10. LA SPAGNOLA 7a+ 15m Corner with not many holds and polished rock, difficult to read

? 6b+ 5a

7a+

6c+

7a+

7b+ 01 02

05 06

Marco Puleo, Vulcano (© M. Cappuccio)

Catania > Etna Sarbaggio

7a+ 25. VISICARU 26. FIDEL INCASTRO 6c 27. SALE SUGO E DOBERMANN 6b 28. TINNIPENTI 29. PETER PUNK 30. FEDELI ALLA LINEA 31. LIBTEK 32. MEMENTO MORI

6a+ 6b+ 6a 7a+/b 7c 7a+ 6c 6b

Featured crack Diagonal with reachy moves Prow with mantleshelving Slightly7coverhanging prow on slopers Athletic, overhanging boulder Crack which varies from vertical to overhang Wall with bouldery moves Athletic corner

6a+

6b+

27 28

7a+ 6c 7c

32 31 30

Catania > Etna

ROCCA CANALACI Roccazzo di Canalaci is a characteristic rock which rises along the western side of Etna. This tower which is fifty metres high sticks out compared to the surrounding landscape, also due to the fact that it is situated only a few hundred metres from the state road. The rock consists of compact sandstone quartz which is not featured this results in a climbing style which is never easy not even on the easier routes. It is one of the few climbing sites in the province of Catania but nonetheless it is not very frequented because it is quite far away from the city. The rocca offers many trad routes, short and not so interesting, recently some new sport routes have been bolted and this has given the rocca a new lease of life. This area is ideal during summer thanks to its altitude and aspect, but it is also pleasant throughout the colder seasons and it is spectacular to climb with the snow capped volcano in the background, and the view is probably this sector’s strong point thanks to Etna’s majestic western side which rises in the horizon.

1050 m altitude

NORTH-SOUTH exposure

ÙÙÙÙ beauty

ÙÙÙÙ bolting

ÙÙÙÙ tranquillity

ÙÙÙÙ comfort

ACCESS Follow the SS 284 that from Catania leads to Bronte. Once you have driven past Bronte proceed towards Maletto, after roughly 2,5 kilometres turn left along a secondary road, from here you will see the rocca, after 100m turn right along a dirt road which leads to an opening where you park your car. Overcome a fence on the left and in 5 minutes you reach the crag.

ÙÙÙÙ parking

Sand stone type of rock

5 min approach

BACK UP POINT You will find everything you need at Bronte. Do not miss the excellent pistachio cakes, Bronte is their capital.

Yes - No beginners

Yes - No

climbing possible when it rains

Yes - No for families

15 1

4 3 4

1 1

< 4b 4c 5a 5b 5c 6a 6b 6c 7a 7b 7c 8a 8b 8c 9a ?

Bronte

BRONTE Maletto

G. Gallo, Crema al pistacchio (© Archivio Gallo)

12 Siracusa Pantalica

METAMORFOSI The Metamorfosi sector is situated above the Grotta dei pipistrelli and on the opposite side of the river. It consists of a beautiful vertical wall which is slightly overhanging in sections and falls directly into the calm waters of the Calcinara. In fact a few routes start just a few metres from the river. 23. MAX IL PIONIERE 24. ULTIMO GRIDO 25. SALUTI E CACI 26. OMBRE NELLA POLVERE 27. GUTTALAX 28. RELAZIONI PRIVATE 29. LEGGENDE NECROPOLITANE 30. MERCERIA DEL VIALE 31. TORELLO SICILIANO 32. FUGA DALL’ABISSO

? ? 7c 7b 7a 7b 7c+ 7c+ 7c 7b+

14m 12m 22m 20m 20m 22m 30m 20m 22m 24m

Explosive on overhang 8a? Slightly overhanging wall with pockets and edges 7c? Slightly overhanging wall Vertical slab with pockets, final crux Vertical slab with pockets, final crux Slightly overhanging on edges and pockets Difficult start, then slightly overhanging Athletic climbing, then technical wall Athletic climbing, then technical wall Athletic climbing and requires precision

7b+ 7c+

7c 31

7c+ 7b 26

7b 30

M. Flaccavento, Grotta dei Pipistrelli (© M. Spataro)

Siracusa

Canicattini Twenty sectors for a total of almost four hundred routes, all in the range of a dozen kilometres, these are the figures that make Canicattini Bagni among the most important and interesting climbing site of eastern Sicily. This climbing area thanks to the morphology of its territory, is strongly characterized by a thick network of fluvial incisions which offer kilometres of rocky walls in quite a wild and striking environment. The traditional farming culture still permeates in these areas, old tenements scattered across the plateau where small, family run rural realities resist. The farming consists of wheat, olives and carob trees and is characterized by stone walls, of which Canicattini Bagni is centre of the workforce. But for climbing the added value is represented by the rock faces, covered in concretions, more than in any other part of the Iblei. This is where the crags of Contralfano, Cava Donna and Cugno Lupo lie, kingdom of large overhangs, tufas and concretions, but there are also plenty of crags or portions with vertical grey walls with easier routes, or with technical and delicate routes. The town even if not very well known among the provinces of Siracusa, offers an excellent glimpse of Liberty architecture, surrounded by a very relaxing and pleasant atmosphere. In town it is best to stay overnight at some of the B&Bs and have dinner in the pizzerias and restaurants situated the centre, furthermore a craft brewery offers an extra incentive to stay over for a few extra days in Canicattini Bagni.

BACK UP POINTS

At Canicattini Bagni, thanks to the larger number of climbers who have been hanging out here during the past few years there are various tourist structures. La Timpa holiday homes tel. +39 328 0586096 is among the most appreciated by climbers. In the centre there is a restaurant and a good pizzeria, instead for tasty breakfasts or for sweets and “granite” we recommend Bar Bellomia on the main road.

AREA: 18-22. Cava Bagni

23-29

23-29. Contrada Alfano 30-34. Contrada Cava Donna 35. Cugno Lupo 36. Cava Campana

18-22 30-34

37. Cava Sture 38. Cava Grande

Peppe D’Agata, Eternit (© M. Cappuccio)

Siracusa

CAVA BAGNI Cava Bagni is a rocky canyon which delimits the town of Canicattini Bagni to the north, and it is visible when you drive along the road towards Floridia and you go past the high bridge straight before the town centre. Bagni is the name of the ancient feud where these lands lay and which gave the name to this valley. The sectors positioned in this area are spread out along the main canyon and one of its affluents, and they are the most recent of Canicattini Bagni. Over seventy routes spread across five sectors a few minutes walk one from the other, with the great advantage of lying on opposite sides of the river and therefore always offering the ideal conditions for climbing during any season and time of day. The German climber Stefan Low discovered and bolted the majority of the routes and sectors. Ever since his first trip to Sicily Stefan fell in love with this corner of the island, the names he gave to the routes are eloquent. Stefan comes back often and continues bolting new routes, the “local” Cristian Leube, now a naturalized and authentic Sicilian, bolted the more difficult routes Fuchsberger and Glashaus and the entire Jungle Book sector. ACCESS From the centre of Canicattini Bagni, follow signs for Floridia (from C.so Vittorio Emanuele turn right for via Carducci). From the town exit and for 1,3 km drive until you reach Foro Boario, where the livestock trade show occurs. It is already possible to park here for those who have a camper or for those who do not wish to drive along the narrow road invaded by brambles. One hundred metres beyond Foro Boario, on the left (on a hair pin bend to the right) an asphalt road sets off, it is invaded by greenery, this was the old provincial road before they built the high bridge over the canyon. Follow this old road to the bottom of the valley and to the end of the last hair pin bend. Beware along the hair pin bends, the road is narrow and without guard rails, it is a dangerous road, here there is eventually parking for a maximum of four cars. From the car park take the trail towards west which leads to the various sectors. CRAGS:

18. 19. 20. 21. 22.

Foro Boario

Powerbank Glashaus Scwargenegger Fuchsberger Jungle Book

Florida

Canicattini Bagni

21 20

Cristian Leube, Pantarei Nights (© M. Cappuccio)

Siracusa > Rosolini > Cava Granati

CAPRA ROSSA It is the sector below Cava Granati, bolted in a small rocky amphitheatre consisting of mainly vertical walls and characterized by small pockets. The rock is compact and with a few painful pockets, this leads to climbing which requires strong fingers and tiny holds. Even the easiest routes are not simple and must not be underestimated. The sector faces south, therefore it is mainly a winter sector. The sector was equipped by Daniele Pasca and partners.

100 m altitude

SOUTH-EAST exposure

ÙÙÙÙ beauty

ACCESS As for Zona Rossa, continue for a few hundred metres along the torrent downhill to the evident rocky amphitheatre.

ÙÙÙÙ bolting

ÙÙÙÙ tranquillity

ÙÙÙÙ comfort

ÙÙÙÙ

ZONA ROSSA

parking

granito type of rock

15 min approach

Yes - No beginners

Yes - No

climbing possible when it rains

Yes - No for families

Auditorium Attilio Del Buono

Siracusa

19 2 1

5 2

1 1

< 4b 4c 5a 5b 5c 6a 6b 6c 7a 7b 7c 8a 8b 8c 9a ?

186

CAPRA ROSSA

1. SUPER GIU’ 2. FILAZZEDDA 3. CAPRA ROSSA 4. CAFUDDA 5. UNDER PRESSURE 6. 7 DI DENARI 7. IL CIRCENSE 8. ISTINTO E RAGIORE 9. BARABU 10. VIA DA SOTTO 11. POWER TO LOVE 12. OSSITOCINA 13. DAMA BIANCA 14. WITHOUT NAME 15. WITHOUT NAME 16. WITHOUT NAME 17. WITHOUT NAME 18. STATI D’ANIMO 19. MONDO FRAGILE

6a 6a+ 6a+ 6c 7b 6c 7c 6b 6c 7a+ 7a 6c 6b 6a+ 5c 5b 5b 6c+ 7a

20m 20m 20m 20m 18m 18m 17m 20m 20m 20m 20m 20m 20m 10m 10m 10m 10m 15m 15m

Vertical wall with pockets Vertical wall with pockets Vertical wall with pockets Overhanging then vertical Bouldery overhang with mantleshelf move Vertical Wall with slightly overhanging sections Vertical wall with pockets Slightly overhanging section but covered in holds As for the previous but a bit more difficult very compact technical wall Nice technical climbing Vertical wall Nice climbing on white wall Technical wall Easy leaning wall Easy leaning wall Easy leaning wall Overhanging bulge Exposed arête

6a+

6a+ 6a

7c 02

16 17

6a+ 6b 6c

04 01

7a+

11 05

08 09

18 -19

187

188

189

242

243

61 Ragusa > Scicli The Wall

THE WALL - SECTOR BOSCHETTO ACCESSO Once you reach the main sector continue to the left following the wall, as soon as you have gone past the easy routes a little wood of carob and oak trees opens up. The first route Gnomi welcomes the climbers who head into this magical wood. This sector is in the shade during the morning and in the sunshine during the afternoon. 1. IL MONDO DI ART 6c+ Overhanging wall with starting sequence of pockets and final technical move 2. LA CASA DI SOPHIE 6b+/6c Initial overhanging wall and nice final slab 3. PACIFICO 6c 4. ASPETTANDO L’ ESTATE 6b Overhanging wall with athletic start and technical move on final section 5. MANU E TETE 6c+ Overhanging wall with central crux and nice final slab 6. JOSHI GP 7a+ Overhanging wall with central crux and nice final slab 7. MASTICE 6c initial overhanging wall and nice slab 8. ROCKY SAMA 6b Starting overhang with central technical crux and nice final slab 9. PETER IL TERRIBILE 6b+/c Overhanging wall with central crux and beautiful final slab. The route runs up a black streak 10. VIAGGIO IN ROULOTTE 6b+ Overhanging wall with technical exit from the bulge and final slab 11. EFFETTO MYAZAKI 6b+ Overhanging wall with technical exit from the bulge and nice final slab 12. TESTARICIPPU 6b+ Overhanging wall requires endurance 13. GNOMI 6a Overhanging wall on good pockets

268

03 04

269

95 Trapani > San Vito lo Capo > Scogliera di Salinella Sud Crown Of Aragon

1. NON DEVI VENIRE! 5b 20m Crack and featured wall 2. L’EGOISMO DI CLIMBER 5c 28m Oblique crack and final wall 3. PPI MIA 5c+ 25m Leaning initial wall and two moves on roof 4. CIMICIURRI 5c+ 25m A series of roofs with good holds 5. WITHOUT NAME 6c+/7a 25m Corner crack and final roof 6. WITHOUT NAME 7a 20m Initial slab then overhang and concretions 7. WITHOUT NAME 6b+/c 25m Overhang with good holds and pockets 8. BUON NATALE 6c 23m 9. IL BUONGIORNO SI VEDE DAL MATTINO 7a 23m Overhanging with good holds 10. PANETTONE DI GUANO 6c+ 22m Nice climbing on concretions and pockets 11. WITHOUT NAME Unfinished project 12. SUGAR DADDY 6b 25m Featured wall 13. NOVANTANONNO 6b+ 25m Easy slab in the first part, overhang up high is more difficult. 5c to the first anchor point 14. TRE PUNTI A NATALE 6b+ 25m Nice sequence 15. RATZINGER ZETA 6c 12m Short and bouldery 16. IL CARDINALE MORATORIA 7c 12m Short and bouldery 17. BANDO ALLA CIANCIO 6a+ 20m Tufas and pockets 18. LA CREMA CANELA 6a+ 28m Climbing on tufas at the start and corner up high, nice

6b+ 5c+ 5c 5b

10 08

02 01

6c+

5c+ 05

404

6b+

7c 6a+ 6a+

6b 6c

11 12 13

16 17

405

406

407

95 Trapani > San Vito lo Capo > Scogliera di Salinella Sud Crown Of Aragon

19. WITHOUT NAME Unfinished project 20. CAMBIO 7a 28m The difficulties obviously come after the ledge 21. CHRISTAL PISTOL 7b+ 28m 22. THE EYE 7c+ 28m A large tufa breaking off on the bulge has made the grade more difficult 23. FALSO IN BILANCIA 7c 28m Nice continuous route on pockets without great surprises 24. USA E GETTA 7c+/8a 26m Crux with reachy move on sloping pockets 25. CHIAPPOTTE 6c 26m Nice overhanging route, continuous on good holds. A bit polished. 26. LA LADRA 7b 32m Single crux on small holds, the remainder is endurance on good tufas 27. LA GATTINA UBRIACA 6c+ 25m Tufas and pockets with two good rests, beautiful 28. QUANTO CRUCCO SEI! 7a 26m One of the most beautiful routes, continuous climbing on good holds 29. BOBELE 7a 30m 30. SGAMONE 7a+ 28m Was graded 7a, but a large tufa broke off, reachy move 31. GODFATHER 7c+ 27m Nice and varied, crux on the right on small pockets 32. TRUFFATORE 7c 28m The first section up the crack is nice, crux on roof difficult to read 33. MANI INTELLETTUALI 7b 22m Crux with reachy move and a “barn-door” move 34. DON’T BE A-FRED 7b+ 30m

7b+ 7a

6a+ 6a+

7c+

7c 7a+ 7c+

7b+

7c+/8a 20

21 22

408

6c 7b

19 17

6c+

7a+

32 33

35. VARAN DE NARANDE N.L. 35m 36. TRICHECO 7a+ 30m Traverse to the left, watch out bee hive on the route 37. ALL CATS ARE BLACK AT NIGHT 7b+ 20m One of the most repeated routes of the crag, continuous on good holds, athletic move 38. MI PUÒ FARE ACCENDERE 8a+ 26m Technical crux on small pockets and far away 39. MEGA DAVE 7c+ 26m No longer 8a…but still a great route! 40. WALK THE LINE 7b+ 26m Climbing on pockets and concretions, beautiful 41. TROPPO DUCI 7a 18m Endurance route on good tufas, crux half way. There is a beehive in the pocket near the chain, do not disturb! 42. TRAINING SEGRETO 6c+ 18m No tufas this time, only pockets. Freed by moving up high to the right but it can be climbed straight up. Same anchor point as previous, beware of bee hive! 43. X-TENDED VERSION 7a/+ 10m From the anchor point of 34 a move to reach the end. Difficult to clip into chain 44. BOLTING IN THE RAIN 6b+ 15m Sharp rock, short and not easy, not ideal for warming up on 45. BEL TEMPO…BASTARDO 6b 15m The sector’s last route, similar to the previous

7a+ 7c+

7b ?

7a+

8a+ 43

7b+

33 34

6b+

7c+

36 37

7a 6c+

39 38

409

Palermo

MONTE PELLEGRINO The high mountains surrounding Palermo frame the Conca d’Oro, which once upon a time was a fertile plain full of gardens and citrus fruit groves and which nowadays has been invaded by urbanization. To the eyes of a passionate climber, the huge rock faces of the main mountains of Palermo cannot be passed unnoticed. There are two main mountain which offer big walls with lots of possibilities for climbing: Monte Pellegrino and Monte Gallo. The first rises up within the city, Monte Gallo (described in the following chapter) is further north. Probably the first people to appreciate the rocky structure of Monte Pellegrino were the Carthaginans, who formed ranks on the upper summits during the First Punic Was resisting the siege of the Romans for three full years. The origin of the name, contrary to what many believe is in fact attributed to the Romans who called it “Peregrinus” meaning - of the foreigners, - of the enemy, and not because of the sanctuary there dedicated to Saint Rosalia, patron saint of the city. Goethe described Monte Pellegrino during one of his Sicilian trips as “the most beautiful promontory in the world”, but if this seems a bit excessive it is not an exaggeration to call Monte Pellegrino the most important climbing area in southern Italy. Since 1996 it has been declared a natural Golfo Mondello reserve together with the neighbouring Parco della Favorita. At over 600 metres high it is completely immersed in the urban context of the city and extends from south to north for several kilometres, offering a continuous 104 sequence of walls exposed on every side. Cir105 103 cumnavigating the mass of rock, it is impossible not to be fascinated by such a spectacle of rock so close at hand. Despite the fact 106 that since the 1940s many routes have been opened on these walls, still today there are enormous possibilities of new exploits, in fact long stretches of the wall are still untouched. Santuario Santa The sport climbing sectors around Monte Rosalia Pellegrino are basically three, La Roccia dello Schiavo, Valdesi and L’Addaura. The Valdesi area is very extensive and therefore divided into several sectors. On Monte Pellegrino 102 alone there are more than 200 sport climbing routes as well as many long routes both modern and classic, certainly a concentration of rock and climbs unique in the south of Italy. CRAGS:

102. Lo Schiavo 103. Pablo 104. Valdesi 105. Mariella Crack’n’Up 106. Preistoria 442

city centre

Sector Lo Schiavo - Monte Pellegrino

443

Valdesi

Mariella Crack’n’Up

Preistoria

444

Pablo

Lo Schiavo

445

120 Messina > Rocche del Crasto Artino’s Wall

1. SAILOR MOON 5a 18m 2. KING ARTIN 6c 24m 3. STORIA DI UNA METEORA 6c+ 24m 4. DEFIBRILLATION 6c 24m 5. ALACRAS IN THE HEART 7c 22m 6. HASTA SIEMPRE PRESIDENTE 6c 25m 7. NATO PER ME 7b+ 25m 8. L’UOMO CON LA GIACCA 6c 20m 9. KONAN IL BARBAGIAN 7a 25m 10. CILIEGE BIANCHE 6a 20m 11. NUMERI E LETTERE 4c 10m 12. WHITE TIGER 4c 10m 13. PANINI IMPORTANTI 4c 10m 14. LA PAZIENZA DI ERIKA 4a 15m 15. U TENENTE 4a 12m 16. PRIMAVERA RIBELLE 7b 30m 17. FIGLI DELLE STELLE 6c+ 35m

Arête with good holds. Anchor is shared with route 2. Technical vertical wall. Anchor is in common with 1 Technical vertical wall with delicate moves Technical vertical wall with delicate moves which are never easy Super technical pitch Nice route with final slab Vertical wall followed by a difficult technical slab (6a to the first chain) Technical vertical wall Nice technical route. Wall with final crack Slab climbing. Shared anchor with 12 Slab climbing. Shared anchor with 11 Slab climbing Slab climbing Easy climbing on slab Start is slightly overhanging, then slab with difficult technical moves. Long journey on slab

6c+

7b+

4a 7b 4c

4a 15 16

538

13 12

6a 7a 6c 6a 11 10

6c 7c 6c 6c+ 06 07

5a 02

539

550

551

Bouldering in Sicily During these past few years bouldering in Sicily has been experiencing a moment of great interest and evolution, in spite of it being less popular compared to sports climbing, the boulders of Bosco Scorace have become very popular in Italy and beyond, and for many enthusiasts of this discipline Sicily is becoming a very popular destination. Historically bouldering was an activity carried out by very few climbers and always in small areas which were never very busy. One of the island’s first sites was discovered during the nineties by Antonio Nastri who set up a few problems on limestone boulders along the coast of Barcarella in Palermo, a beautiful place, shaded by pine trees and right on the sea, but quickly forgotten. On the other side of Sicily, exactly at Cava D’Ispica, Giorgio Iurao during the early 2000s had set up a few lines on the boulders of Parco Forza, and during the same period even on the Etneo basalt a few lines ran up in the area of Linguaglossa. These spots represented a small timid attempt of attempting this practice, but they have stayed isolated realities which are rarely used. Bouldering on the island saw a significative impulse when in 2008 the duo of Czech climbers Giorgia Borsani, Il sordo 6c - Bosco Scorace (© M. Cappuccio)

552

(Ján Smolen and Lukas Cermak) created the Golden Block spot near Taormina, involving a few of the local climbers among these Jonathan Bonaventura who successively developed the area creating the spots of Leto Block (LetojanniME) and Fiumedinisi (Fiumedinisi-ME). During the same period the Mountain Guide Massimo Faletti cleaned and set up problems in the spot Poillina Block (near the town of Pollina) in the Park of Madonie. Successively, Stefano Anile and Davide Scornavacca, developed (with the contribution of other local climbers) the spot of Bronte Block (Bronte, CT). Bronte Block represented a first important turning point for bouldering in Sicily because it is one of the first spots of a certain size, cleaned and visited frequently. But the spot which has become the island’s most popular, attracting the best boulderers is Bosco Scorace in the province of Trapani. The woods of il Bosco are beautiful, they offers loads of boulders of all sizes consisting of excellent sand stone which is ideal for climbing. The work of cleaning and fixing the boulders was done mainly thanks to Davide Catalano, Emanuele Vigani and Alessandro Pagani. They

553

Luca Danieli Ph. Christian Varrone

SPORT FOOTWEAR FREE TIME

ANDE.IT #ANDEXPLORE

Di roccia di sole - Crags

Articles inside

Thanks

Climbing in Sicily

10. Ziroman