DOLOMITES Crags by Versante Sud srl

GUIDO COLOMBETTI

DOLOMITES

Crags

105 sport climbing suggestions

EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD | COLLANA LUOGHI VERTICALI | CLIMBING

iCLIMBING APP

FREE DOWNLOAD

First edition July 2021 ISBN 978 88 55470 599 Copyright © 2021 VERSANTE SUD – Milano (I), via Longhi, 10. Ph. +39 02 7490163 www.versantesud.it All translation, reproduction, adaptation and electronic registration, either totally or partially, by any methods, are rights reserved for all countries.

Cover image

Val di Landro, Alto Adige © Guido Colombetti

Text

Guido Colombetti

Drawings and topos

Chiara Benedetto

Aerial photos

Gillo Bottini, Guido Colombetti

English translation

Alexandra Ercolani

Maps

Tommaso Bacciocchi. © Mapbox, © Open Street Map

Symbols

Tommaso Bacciocchi

Layout

Guido Colombetti

Printing

Tipolitografia Pagani - Passirano (BS), Italy

s ZERO mile ook is This guideband locally homegroprwn oduced

ZERO miles!

This is a “zero-miles” guidebook. It’s locally produced! It has been compiled by local authors, who live and promote climbing in the area reviewed. Climbers benefit from local authors: – locals know the latest news and updates – locals don’t promote only the most “commercial” spots – locals invest the revenues from the guidebook in equipping new crags Local authors promote and respect their area: – they review only the spots where climbing is allowed – they pay attention in the same way to any different spot – they meaningfully interact with local actors

Note

Climbing is a potentially dangerous sport in which participation is entirely at your own risk. All the information in this guide has been updated based upon information at the time of publication, however it is vital to evaluate every situation yourself before placing yourself in a life threatening situation or to seek the advice of experienced and qualified individuals.

ZERO miles This guidebook is homegrown and locally produced

2% of the proceeds from this guidebook are re-invested in material for re-bolting routes and crags

GUIDO COLOMBETTI

DOLOMITES CRAGS 105 sport climbing suggestions

EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD

AA AA 20 19

AA AA

AA 09

04 08 10 05 06 07

AA AA

11 12

13 14 15 16 AA 17

62 63 64 51

41 42

37 34

56 5

43 AA © ALTO ADIGE FALESIE FR © FRIULI E TERRE DI CONFINE 46

AA AA

AA 25 26 27 28 29

23 24 21

30 31

74 72 73 67 69 71 66 68 70

54 58

61 59

93 87 86

92 91

INDEX Index of crags . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Symbols . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Preface . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Acknowledgements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Sports climbing in the Dolomites . . . . . . . . 20 The crags of the Dolomites . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

GARDENA VALLEY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 01. Siusi - Hauenstein . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 02. Val di Funes - Malga Zannes . . . . . . . . 03. Seura Sass . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 04. Sass dla Gran Piera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 05. Vicenza Hut - Dantersasc . . . . . . . . . . 06. Demetz Hut - L Parëi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 07. Città dei Sassi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 08. Singing Rocks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 09. Busc dl Preve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10. Bernardi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11. Cansla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12. Frea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

26 36 42 46 50 54 56 74 76 78 80 86

BADIA VALLEY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 13. Summertime . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98

Era Glaciale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 102 108 112 116 120 126 132 140 144

14. Tridentina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15. Paradise . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16. Crà da la Miri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17. Bec de Roces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18. Campill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19. Erbe Pass . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20. Ciastlins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21. Pederù . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22. Sass Dlacia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

PUSTERIA VALLEY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 23. Ponticello . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24. Prato Piazza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25. Falesia ‘74 (dei Militari) . . . . . . . . . . . 26. Franchi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27. Stube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28. Geierwand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

162 166 172 176 180 192

29. 30. 31. 32. 33.

Landro Classic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lake Landro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Grotte di Landro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Val Rienza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Val Campo - Lower . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Val Campo - Upper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

196 204 208 214 222 223

FIEMME AND FASSA VALLEYS . . . . . . . . . . 224 34. Pampeago - Dos Capèl . . . . . . . . . . . 226 35. Passo Costalunga - Kluan Roatwandl 228 36. Predazzo - Sottosassa . . . . . . . . . . . . 240 37. Moena - Ronchi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242 38. Campitello - Sot Pecel . . . . . . . . . . . . 244 39. Col Rodella . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246 40. Pian Schiavaneis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252 41. Penia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262 42. Val Contrin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264

PRIMIERO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268 43. Castelpietra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270 44. San Martino di Castrozza - Silly . . . . . 276

San Martino di Castrozza - Marco’s . 276

45. Passo Rolle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 278 46. Kaifa e Grotta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 280 47. Pindoli e Cascata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284

AGORDINO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286 48. Capanna Bill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49. Malga Ciapéla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50. Laste . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51. Andràz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52. Caprile - Sas da le Bore . . . . . . . . . . . 53. Garés - Cascata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Garés - Paretone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

54. Mezzocanale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55. Corpassa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56. Taibon - Forte . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57. Frassené - Laghetti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58. Farenzena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59. Crepa Negra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60. La Pèra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61. Càleda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

288 294 298 320 330 336 338 342 346 348 350 354 360 364 368

CORTINA D’AMPEZZO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 376 62. Salares . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63. Setsas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64. Sass de Stria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65. Piccolo Lagazuoi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66. Averau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67. Cinque Torri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68. Crèpe de Oucèra Alte . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69. Crèpe de Oucèra Basse . . . . . . . . . . . 70. Bèco d’Ajàl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71. Crèpe de Pantèi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72. Volpèra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Sasso dei Finanzieri . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

73. Campo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74. Rio Gère . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75. San Bodo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76. La Zoppa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

378 384 390 394 400 402 420 424 432 438 442 445 446 450 454 458

CADORE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 462 77. Creston Popera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 464 78. Val Frison - Merendera . . . . . . . . . . . 468 79. Laggio - Nord . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 474

80. Passo Mauria - Croera . . . . . . . . . . . . 482 81. Val d’Oten . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 486 82. Lozzo - Prua . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 490

Lozzo - Divertiamoci . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 492 494 498 500 504 510 516 518 520

83. Vallesella . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84. Crepo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85. Cavallera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86. Podenzoi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87. Igne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88. Zoldo - Val Barance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89. Coi di Zoldo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90. Ceresera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

FRIULI DOLOMITES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 524 91. Erto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 526 92. Casso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 536 93. Cimolais - Ponte Gote . . . . . . . . . . . . 544

Cimolais - Ponte Compol . . . . . . . . . . Cimolais - Rifugio Pordenone . . . . . . 94. Forni di Sotto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95. Forni Avoltri - Ciolos . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

546 547 548 550

Laggio - Laboratorio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 476 Laggio - Sud . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 478

BIBLIOGRAPHY A.S.D. Climband (a cura di), Falesie delle Dolomiti Bellunesi, AiCS Editore, 2019 A.S.D. La Rivolta (a cura di), Falesie dell’Agordino Dolomiti, AiCS Editore, 2019 Bernardi Mauro, Arrampicare in Val Gardena e Dintorni Vol. 1, Athesia, 2009 Bernardi Mauro, Arrampicare in Val Gardena e Dintorni Vol. 2, Athesia, 2011 Bernardi Mauro, Arrampicare in Val Gardena e Dintorni Vol. 3, Athesia, 2015 Bonanno Gabriele, Arrampicate Sportive e Vie Moderne, LagirAlpina, 2004 Bucco Daniele, Friuli e Terre di Confine, Versante Sud, 2020 Colombetti Guido, Alto Adige Falesie, Versante Sud, 2019 Gruppo Rocciatori Pieve di Cadore (a cura di), Arrampicare in Cadore, Idea Montagna, 2012 Gruppo Scoiattoli (a cura di), Falesie a Cortina d’Ampezzo, Idea Montagna, 2016 Senettin Manuel, Hofer Thomas, Sportclimbing in the Dolomites, Vertical-Life, 2013 Zanolla Maurizio, In Bilico... tra le Falesie di Primiero, Osteria Taci Cavallo Editing, 2013

INDEX OF CRAGS BEAUTY

INTEREST

ALTITUDE

ORIENTATION APPROACHTIME

NAME OF CRAG pg

ROUTES min difficulty max difficulty

GARDENA VALLEY

81 4a-8a NSWE 40 min 49 3a-7c South 50 min 13 5b-7c NSE 50 min 26 5c-7c Northwest 50 min 12 4a-6c West 2/75 min 17 4a-7a N S W E 5/25 min 175 3a-7c North 5 min 16 5c-7b West 10 min 12 3a-6a East 10 min 12 6b-7b West 5 min 42 5b-7b Northwest 5 min 113 4a-7c

01 SIUSI - HAUENSTEIN 26

ÙÙÙÙ

Int.

1200 m

02 VAL DI FUNES - MALGA ZANNES 36

ÙÙÙÙ

Reg.

2000 m

03 SEURA SASS 42

ÙÙÙÙ

Int.

2000 m

04 SASS DLA GRAN PIERA 46

ÙÙÙÙ

Int.

1900 m

05 VICENZA HUT - DANTERSASC 50

ÙÙÙÙ

Reg.

2300 m

06 DEMETZ HUT - L PARËI 54

ÙÙÙÙ

Reg.

2700 m

07 CITTÀ DEI SASSI 56

ÙÙÙÙ

Int.

600 m

08 SINGING ROCKS 74

ÙÙÙÙ

Reg.

2200 m

09 BUSC DL PREVE 76

ÙÙÙÙ

Reg.

1600 m

10 BERNARDI 78

ÙÙÙÙ

Reg.

1700 m

11 CANSLA 80

ÙÙÙÙ

Int.

2000 m

12 FREA 86

ÙÙÙÙ

Int.

2100 m

ÙÙÙÙ ÙÙÙÙ

Int. Reg.

2200 m 2200 m

North North

14 TRIDENTINA 102

ÙÙÙÙ

Int.

2000 m

North

15 PARADISE 108

ÙÙÙÙ

Int.

1800 m

Northwest

16 CRÀ DA LA MIRI 112

ÙÙÙÙ

Reg.

1800 m

NWE

17 BEC DE ROCES 116

ÙÙÙÙ

Reg.

2100 m

East

18 CAMPILL 120

ÙÙÙÙ

Reg.

1700 m

NSWE

19 ERBE PASS 126

ÙÙÙÙ

Int.

2100 m

NSWE

20 CIASTLINS 132

ÙÙÙÙ

Int.

140 m

NSWE

21 PEDERÙ 140

ÙÙÙÙ

Reg.

1500 m

Northwest

22 SASS DLACIA 144

ÙÙÙÙ

Int.

1700 m

NSWE

BADIA VALLEY 13

SUMMERTIME 98 ERA GLACIALE 100

20/35 min

20 6c-8b 14 6b-7c 10 min 66 5c-7c 25 min 38 6a-8a 25 min 24 6a-7b 30 min 21 5b-7a 5/20 min 45 5a-8a 30 min 36 III-8c 15/25 min 74 5a-8c 5 min 31 4a-7a 15/25 min 261 5b-8a 10 min 20 min

PUSTERIA VALLEY 1500 m

Northwest

ÙÙÙÙ

Int. Int.

23 5a-7b 2200 m Southwest 45 min 17 4a-7a 1400 m East 10 min 38 4c-7b 1400 m East 5 min 28 5a-8b 1600 m East 10/30 min 58 4a-8b 1700 m South 30 min 25 4a-8c 1500 m East 1 min 98 4a-8b 1600 m West 25 min 36 4a-7c 1600 m West 40 min 58 4a-8b 1700 m South 45 min 69 III-8b 23 5b-7c 1700 m West 50 min 1600 m West 40 min 21 4a-6c

34 PAMPEAGO - DOS CAPÈL 226

ÙÙÙÙ

Reg.

2000 m

35 P. COSTALUNGA - KL. ROATWANDL 228

ÙÙÙÙ

Reg.

1800 m

36 PREDAZZO - SOTTOSASSA 240

ÙÙÙÙ

Reg.

1200 m

37 MOENA - RONCHI 242

ÙÙÙÙ

Loc.

1500 m

38 CAMPITELLO - SOT PECEL 244

ÙÙÙÙ

Loc.

1600 m

39 COL RODELLA 246

ÙÙÙÙ

Reg.

2200 m

40 PIAN SCHIAVANEIS 252

ÙÙÙÙ

Int.

1900 m

41 PENIA 262

ÙÙÙÙ

Loc.

1500 m

42 VAL CONTRIN 264

ÙÙÙÙ

Int.

ÙÙÙÙ ÙÙÙÙ

23 PONTICELLO 162

ÙÙÙÙ

Reg.

24 PRATO PIAZZA 166

ÙÙÙÙ

Reg.

25 FALESIA ‘74 (DEI MILITARI) 172

ÙÙÙÙ

Int.

26 FRANCHI 176

ÙÙÙÙ

Int.

27 STUBE 180

ÙÙÙÙ

Int.

28 GEIERWAND 192

ÙÙÙÙ

Int.

29 LANDRO CLASSIC 196

ÙÙÙÙ

Int.

30 LAKE LANDRO 204

ÙÙÙÙ

Int.

31 GROTTE DI LANDRO 208

ÙÙÙÙ

Int.

32 VAL RIENZA 214

ÙÙÙÙ

Reg.

ÙÙÙÙ

VAL CAMPO - LOWER 222 VAL CAMPO - UPPER 223

10 min

FIEMME AND FASSA VALLEYS Southwest

20 min

1800 m

37 5a-8a N S W E 5/25 min 106 III-8b South 10 min 59 5a-7c South 25 min 28 5a-8a South 25 min 9 5b-7a South 10/50 min 52 III-7b South 10 min 93 5a-8c Southwest 1 min 27 5a-7c Southwest 50 min 49 5c-8b

Int.

1000 m

NSWE

5 min

ÙÙÙÙ

Loc. Loc.

1500 m 1500 m

South East

5 min 10 min

45 PASSO ROLLE 278

ÙÙÙÙ

Loc.

2000 m

East

2 min

46 KAIFA E GROTTA 280

ÙÙÙÙ

Reg.

700 m

South

10 min

47 PINDOLI E CASCATA 284

ÙÙÙÙ

Reg.

800 m

South

10 min

PRIMIERO 43 CASTELPIETRA 270 44

SAN MARTINO DI C. - SILLY 276 SAN MARTINO DI C. - MARCO’S 276

56 4a-8a 17 6a-7b 10 6b-7b 30 5b-7b 46 III-8a 39 5c-8c 9

AGORDINO 48 CAPANNA BILL 288

ÙÙÙÙ

Int.

1700 m

East

5 min

49 MALGA CIAPÉLA 294

ÙÙÙÙ

Int.

1500 m

East

15 min

50 LASTE 298

ÙÙÙÙ

Int.

1500 m

NSWE

10 min

51 ANDRÀZ 320

ÙÙÙÙ

Int.

1800 m

NSWE

5 min

52 CAPRILE - SAS DA LE BORE 330

ÙÙÙÙ

Loc.

1000 m

South

5 min

ÙÙÙÙ ÙÙÙÙ

Int. Int.

1600 m 1500 m

East East

50 min 30 min

54 MEZZOCANALE 342

ÙÙÙÙ

Reg.

700 m

Southeast

5 min

55 CORPASSA 346

ÙÙÙÙ

Loc.

1100 m

West

15 min

56 TAIBON - FORTE 348

ÙÙÙÙ

Loc.

600 m

South East

5 min

57 FRASSENÉ - LAGHETTI 350

ÙÙÙÙ

Reg.

1000 m

NSWE

1 min

58 FARENZENA 354

ÙÙÙÙ

Reg.

800 m

NSWE

15 min

59 CREPA NEGRA 360

ÙÙÙÙ

Reg.

1300 m South West

30 min

60 LA PÈRA 364

ÙÙÙÙ

Reg.

1400 m

West

15 min

61 CÀLEDA 368

ÙÙÙÙ

Int.

1600 m

West

20 min

62 SALARES 378

ÙÙÙÙ

Int.

2200 m

West

63 SETSAS 384

ÙÙÙÙ

Int.

2100 m

South

64 SASS DE STRIA 390

ÙÙÙÙ

Int.

2100 m

East

65 PICCOLO LAGAZUOI 394

ÙÙÙÙ

Int.

2300 m

South

66 AVERAU 400

ÙÙÙÙ

Loc.

2400 m

Southwest

67 CINQUE TORRI 402

ÙÙÙÙ

Int.

2300 m

NSWE

68 CRÈPE DE OUCÈRA ALTE 420

ÙÙÙÙ

Int.

1700 m

South

69 CRÈPE DE OUCÈRA BASSE 424

ÙÙÙÙ

Int.

1600 m

Northeast

70 BÈCO D’AJÀL 432

ÙÙÙÙ

Int.

1800 m

SWE

71 CRÈPE DE PANTÈI 438

ÙÙÙÙ

Int.

1500 m

Northwest

ÙÙÙÙ ÙÙÙÙ

Reg. Reg.

1200 m 1200 m

NSWE East

ÙÙÙÙ

Reg.

1200 m

NSWE

GARÉS - CASCATA 336 GARÉS - PARETONE 338

27 6a-8b 21 6a-8c 239 4c-8b 81 5a-8a 31 5b-8a 41 6a-8a 17 6a-7c 33 4a-7c 19 6a-7c 16 5a-6c 63 4a-8a 67 4a-8b 20 6a-8a 18 5c-7a 53 5b-8a

CORTINA D’AMPEZZO

VOLPÈRA 442 SASSO DEI FINANZIERI 445

73 CAMPO 446

43 5c-8b 30/45 min 42 5c-8a 5 min 31 4a-7b 30 min 26 4a-7b 10/45 min 15 4c-6a 10 min 152 III-8b 5 min 82 5c-8b 5 min 79 4c-7b 55 min 51 6a-8c 30 min 22 5c-7c 40 4c-8a 15 min 32 5c-8c 15 min 10/20 min 30 4c-9a 20 min

25 6a-8a 39 4c-8b 28 4c-7c

74 RIO GÈRE 450

ÙÙÙÙ

Int.

1700 m

Northeast

15 min

75 SAN BODO 454

ÙÙÙÙ

Int.

1400 m

West

30 min

76 LA ZOPPA 458

ÙÙÙÙ

Loc.

1300 m

North

30 min

77 CRESTON POPERA 464

ÙÙÙÙ

Int.

1800 m Southeast

30 min

78 VAL FRISON - MERENDERA 468

ÙÙÙÙ

Reg.

1200 m

Northeast

5 min

LAGGIO - NORD 474 79 LAGGIO - LABORATORIO 476 LAGGIO - SUD 478

ÙÙÙÙ ÙÙÙÙ

Reg. Int. Int.

1200 m 1300 m 1400 m

South North North

10 min 20 min 30 min

80 PASSO MAURIA - CROERA 482

ÙÙÙÙ

Int.

1400 m

South

30 min

81 VAL D’OTEN 486

ÙÙÙÙ

Int.

1300 m

North

5/20 min

ÙÙÙÙ ÙÙÙÙ

Reg. Reg.

700 m 700 m

Southeast Southeast

10 min 10 min

83 VALLESELLA 494

ÙÙÙÙ

Reg.

700 m

Southeast

1 min

84 CREPO 498

ÙÙÙÙ

Loc.

800 m

Southeast

5 min

85 CAVALLERA 500

ÙÙÙÙ

Reg.

700 m

South

5 min

86 PODENZOI 504

ÙÙÙÙ

Int.

700 m

East

5 min

87 IGNE 510

ÙÙÙÙ

Int.

700 m

Southwest

5 min

88 ZOLDO - VAL BARANCE 516

ÙÙÙÙ

Reg.

1300 m

Northwest

15 min

89 COI DI ZOLDO 518

ÙÙÙÙ

Reg.

1700 m

NSWE

30 min

90 CERESERA 520

ÙÙÙÙ

Int.

700 m

East

15 min

91 ERTO 526

ÙÙÙÙ

Int.

92 CASSO 536

ÙÙÙÙ

Int.

ÙÙÙÙ ÙÙÙÙ

Reg. Reg. Reg.

94 FORNI DI SOTTO 548

ÙÙÙÙ

Reg.

95 FORNI AVOLTRI - CIOLOS 550

ÙÙÙÙ

Reg.

221 II-9a 1000 m West 15 min 135 5b-8b 700 m South 1/10 min 35 4a-7a 33 4c-7b 800 m North 10 min 20 5b-7a 1200 m East 5 min 800 m Southeast 5 min 38 III-7b 900 m South 5 min 37 III-7b

CADORE

LOZZO - PRUA 490 LOZZO - DIVERTIAMOCI 492

ÙÙÙÙ

23 6a-7c 51 5b-7b 62 4b-7c 20 6b-8c 44 6a-8b 32 6b-8b 32 6a-8a 22 7b-8a 33 6a-7c 23 4c-7c 17 4a-8a 32 5c-8a 79 6a-8b 80 6a-8c 47 5c-7c 28 4b-8a 47 4b-8b

FRIULI DOLOMITES

CIMOLAIS - PONTE COMPOL 544 93 CIMOLAIS - PONTE GOTE 546

CIMOLAIS - RIFUGIO PORDENONE 547

ÙÙÙÙ

800 m

South

1 min

SYMBOLS beauty

ÙÙÙÙ

splendid

beautiful

deserving

not great

This description considers various factors among which, as well as the beauty of the surrounding rock and the routes, the surrounding environment, the tranquillity of the area and everything that makes a crag splendid, beautiful, deserving and not great. This description is personal and subjective.

excellent and placed nearby

excellent

good

poor quality and dangerous

The description considers the distance between protections and where they are placed compared to the route. If excellent, the protections are placed nearby or placed in a reasoned and safe way, in this case the evaluation is 4 star.

comfort

ÙÙÙÙ

comfortable

ÙÙÙÙ

quite comfortable

ÙÙÙÙ

uncomfortable

ÙÙÙÙ

best to tie in

The description keeps in mind the average comfort of the terrain on which the climber belays his/her partner. In some crags where the base of most routes is comfortable, this does not exclude the fact that for other routes it is best to tie in or balance on a small terrace (this circumstance is always indicated).

number of visitors

equipment

ÙÙÙÙ

very low

ÙÙÙÙ

low

ÙÙÙÙ

medium

ÙÙÙÙ

high

This indication refers to the average amount of people found at the crag during the recommended period and with ideal climatic conditions.

parking

ÙÙÙÙ

excellent

ÙÙÙÙ

good

ÙÙÙÙ

not many

ÙÙÙÙ

only one car park

This description is useful for planning any transfer by car if there are various people using a car: if there are not many car parks or only one car park it is best to use the least amount of cars possible or to choose public transport.

noise

ÙÙÙÙ

unacceptable and shameful

ÙÙÙÙ

acceptable

ÙÙÙÙ

background noise

ÙÙÙÙ

silence

Contrary to what people may think of the Dolomites, they are anything but silent due to the intense traffic over the summer months. If in many crags there is absolute silence, in many others instead the noise of the traffic, especially motorbikes, can become very annoying, making it sometimes impossible to talk to your belayer. If you don’t want to go back home with a head ache, it is best to avoid climbing in loud crags.

interest

This description is used to quickly find crags that should not be missed when visiting the Dolomites when staying during a limited time. In this way it is possible to climb in the best crags which are marked under INTERNATIONAL interest. Crags of REGIONAL or LOCAL interest, especially during high season from mid June to mid September, can be valid alternatives if you wish to be in a quiet and calmer area.

falling rocks

IN ALL CRAGS THE POSSIBILITY OF ROCK FALL ALWAYS EXISTS. THE USE OF A HELMET IS ALWAYS RECOMMENDED BOTH FOR THOSE CLIMBING AND THOSE BELAYING! In the crags where this risk is higher due to the quality of the rock or the height of the rock face, the description “yes” means that the use of a helmet is highly recommended. Usually these crags are not recommended to families with children.

approach time

The description of approach times on foot from the car park to the base of the crag is calculated by considering an average walking speed considering the weight of the gear (ropes, backpacks, quickdraws etc). The description depends on different factors including weather and shoes worn.

demanding approach

When the access is difficult we highly recommend the use of ideal footwear such as trekking shoes, or for walking outdoors (no flip flops or sandals!). An access can be considered difficult due to the length, the uneven terrain or due to the presence of sections with cables (ferrata) (always indicated). fit for families

This description must not be confused with the presence of easier grades but it is needed to understand if it is possible to visit the base of this crag with small children or if they need constant adult supervision. Many crags are often not ideal for families due to the presence of exposed ledges, due to the difficult or dangerous approach, due to rock fall, due to the presence of a busy road or other objective dangers. BRINGING CHILDREN IN AN OUTDOOR NATURAL ENVIRONMENT CAN BE RISKY. THIS DESCRIPTION HAS THE SOLE FUNCTION OF HELPING ADULTS FINDING AN AREA WITH MINOR OBJECTIVE RISKS. IT IS STILL UP TO THE PARENT TO EVALUATE AN AREA AND GIVE CONSTANT ASSISTANCE TO MINORS.

type of rock

In 70% of the crags in the Dolomites the climbing is on dolomite rock but it is also possible to find porphyry, conglomerate rock and limestone among which, the famous Marmolada limestone (Malga Ciapela, Capanna Bill, Val Contrin).

beginners

This description finds the crags where the majority of routes present are ideal even for beginners or for who has started climbing for the “first time”. The bolting is usually placed very close and is safe even if some exceptions do exist.

QRcode parking

Difficulty in finding a car park? By scanning this code thanks to one of the many apps available it is possible to avoid a navigation device on your phone to reach the car park directly. QRcode crag

In spite of the effort made to make the access from the crag’s car park as clear as possible, if you really do not understand where to go, if you scan this code it is possible to find the crag’s position based on Google Maps.

PREFACE The Dolomites are the only mountains in the world that every time you look it is like seeing them for the very first time. This is what happens to me every morning when I look out of my window... I have seen so many mountains in my life but only these will never tire me. My job for the past few years has been to accompany trekkers from all over the world to discover these places and at the end of the day all agreed that the Dolomites were the “most beautiful mountains in the world”. And so “scientifically” proved? Of course! The attraction of these mountains is universal, like Michelangelo’s Last Judgement or any other masterpiece worthy of the name, one never tires of beauty.

After the guide book on the Alto Adige Crags (Versante Sud 2019) my love for these mountains was responsible for this latest work which was in fact missing from the shelves of bookshops, where next to Arco, Kalymnos, Finale, Ceuse, Verdon, Siurana and many other “temples” of sports climbing, a complete guide to the crags in the Dolomites should be an absolute must and which up until now was divided into 8 different publications, often difficult to find and anyway limited to one restricted area.

It wasn’t easy, the territory is vast, for the most part accessible mainly in the summer, the new bolting continually changing and the climate doesn’t help. Despite all that, after more than two years work, it is with great joy that finally I am holding this book in my hands, describing the most beautiful crags in the Dolomites, special mountains which every time I observe them, make me close my eyes to the fact that always more frequently, too much tourism and the hunger to make money on the part of some residents, together with the roar of motorcycles, do not respect this wonderful corner of the planet. I wish you all an enjoyable time climbing in the “most beautiful mountains in the world”! Guido Colombetti June 2021

To mom “Rina”, victim of Covid-19

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS There are so many people who make themselves available to extend the range of climbing guides, unlike the cold and shallow apps on your cell phone, they are and remain the starting point for so many vertical trips to discover the most beautiful crags in the world. In the pages of this book you will find all the love and warmth of those who live to climb and those who climb to live, from Daniela with the patience which women alone possess who helped me with the compilation of the major part of the crags published here, to Federico Bin who thanks to his professionalism and great passion illuminated me on routes which I had only imagined, to Benedetta “Benny” Lucarelli who never says no to me, to Sara Leoni for her great availability and wonderful photos and to the whole Reload.Climb team for all the useful information they supplied and for training and following so many climbers all over Italy, to Daniele Bucco for allowing me to publish “his” crags in the Friuli Dolomites, to the many passionate climbers who let themselves be depicted while they “squeezed” holds with all their strength: Roberta Alberti, Bruno Belligoli, Emanuele Bertossi, Enrico Cassol, Davide Deflorian, Lorenzo Finotti, Michele La Marca, Luca Lancellotti, Caroline Linhart, Serena Menardi, Foteini Moschovaki, Mattia Scarpa, Thomas Steiner, Alberto Tenaglia, Otto Von Ottenbergh, Alex Walpoth and others who unfortunately I am no longer in contact with.

A heartfelt thanks also goes to who helped me simply by email or by phone sending me topos of new areas which have been bolted, comments about the best routes, photos of rock faces which I never managed to take, contacts, information and a lot more: Mauro Bernardi, Edi Boldrin, Armin Craffonara, Luca Da Poz, Dante Da Pra, Icio Dall'Omo, Massimo Da Pozzo, Chiara De Rocco, Florio Del Favero, Luca Dell’Antonio, David Demetz, Christian Dorigo, Dino Marini, Alex Mayer, Alessandro Menardi, Hannes Pfeifhofer, Francesco Rigon, Francesco Tremolada (Pro Guide). And to finish, a thank you to the publisher Versante Sud and all its collaborators who helped me create, design, translate and print this guide book: Tommaso Bacciocchi, Gillo Bottini, Roberto Capucciati, Chiara De Benedetto, Alexandra Ercolani and Ursula Oberrauch. If you want to write to me to suggest any new crags, point out errors you have found in this guide book, criticize or just to say hello write to me at: guido.colombetti@versantesud.it

INTRODUCTION The Dolomites, some like to describe them as “the most beautiful mountains in the world”, others describe them as an “enormous castle” consisting of thousands of towers, spires and terraces with overhanging rocks from where the gods observe the littleness of man and his exploits, including those of climbers who have been trying to reach its summits for over a century... Born from the sea and its coral, emerged from the waters, ravaged by volcanic eruptions and powerful earthquakes, sculpted by ice and wind, they have reached us today unique and unrepeatable, to the point of being declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is sufficient to look at a satellite photo of the Alps to understand that the Dolomites are something else, morphologically and geologically different from all the other mountains, splendid because they are never the same amongst themselves, each single valley, every different group, every peak is a world unto itself, to be discovered and climbed. The first ascents in the Dolomites took place more than a century and a half ago. In the beginning it was the pure and simple “conquest of the unknown” to push man to look for the easiest way to reach the top, it is the idea of climbing itself which has been completely revolutionised: from classic alpinism to modern, from artificial ascents to trad until we reach today’s sport climbing where, even if you have never touched a rock, you can experience the emotion of “reaching the top”.

If classic alpinism is still the real heart of climbing in the Dolomites, it goes without saying that also here the “Nuovo Mattino”* brought the necessary force to upset the dogmas of what for decades had been the concept of climbing mainly recognised by alpinists: within a few years more and more climbers were choosing to use the “bolt” and the drilled hole for the only pleasure of climbing “free” over otherwise unprotected moves. From then on sports climbing exploded also in the Dolomites, up until today and what the pages of this book will tell you: 105 crags chosen to represent the best this territory can offer you, a rich selection with which to pass wonderful days immersed in the enchantment of these mountains which have always been able to send a tingle up the spine of anyone with the opportunity to observe them... * The "Nuovo Mattino" in Italy was a wave of revolutionary ideas among young climbers from the Torino area during the seventies. It all started on the granite of Valle dell’Orco trying to emulate the era of Yosemite in the States.

@ F. Tremolada

SHOP SPECIALISED IN MOUNTAIN GEAR, SHOES AND EQUIPMENT

SPORT TONY Str. Colz 56, La Villa Val Badia - Dolomites P. +39 0471 84 76 22 E. info@skinorbert.it

SPORTS CLIMBING IN THE DOLOMITES Climbing in the Dolomites is priceless: be it sports climbing or great mountaineering routes, the environment of the Dolomites is among the most stimulating and adrenaline filled of all the Alps and not only. From the sunny rock faces at altitude facing the sun to the cold north faces which never see the light of day, to the wide green valleys and the narrower shady valleys, the Dolomites cover a vast territory which range from the provinces of Trento and Bolzano, reaching all the way to Udine in Friuli and Belluno in Veneto, for a total of over 2300 square kilometres. The 105 crags chosen for this volume have been divided into 9 different macro areas which each represent a main valley and their relative secondary valleys. In this way it has been possible to cover all the territory of the Dolomites except for the only group which lies beyond the Adige river: and that is the Brenta Dolmites. To get information on most of the Brenta crags it is possible to consult the guide book “Arco crags” (Versante Sud). In terms of the type of rock, it is commonplace to think that climbing in the Dolomites means only climbing on dolomite rock. In this guide book there are 4 different types of rock where dolomite rock is present in roughly 70% of the crags. There are also interesting walls of porphyry, conglomerate and limestone, among which the famous “Marmolada limestone” its quality is appreciated by climbers from all over the world. In terms of the vastness of the territory described, not only horizontally speaking but also vertically- the lowest crag is situated at 500 metres of altitude and the highest at 2700m – the crags described in this guide book are different one from another even inside the same area: for example in Alta Val Pusteria the walls you climb on are all similar, but it is enough to move into the bordering Cadore area to find a more varied offer which ranges from conglomerate rock on the

walls nearby the Piave river, to the dolomite rock of the crags further up high, to the limestone of the lower valley, where as well as the different rock, even the climate and the landscape change radically. The Dolomites run along a vast area and inside the same territory the climatic and environmental conditions can be very different. For this reason, at the beginning of each chapter a short introduction to the area illustrates all of its main climatic characteristics as well as some concise information on the viability and a quick description of the chosen crags. In this way, even for anyone coming to climb in the Dolomites for a limited period of time, it is possible to choose the most interesting areas depending on the season and one’s preferences. One thing is certain, anywhere you choose to go in the Dolomites, you will find a lot of rock on which to vent off all your climbing energy!

DOLOMITE ROCK…THIS DARK HORSE…

The Dolomites were born in the sea and their geological origin is clearly visible even with the naked eye: it is enough to observe the sedimentary layers which make up the Tre Cime di Lavaredo or Seceda, the many fossils which can be found along the paths which are less trodden, or the bizarre shape of the summits and pinnacles to realise that the mountain-sea relationship has never been so powerful over such a wide mountain territory. In climbing terms the walls of dolomite rock are very similar to limestone, both in terms of the structure and the climbing technique which is the same in many respects. For those used to limestone, climbing on dolomite rock is not as different as for example

it can be climbing on granite or gneiss. It would be absurd and scientifically wrong to say that “dolomite rock is like limestone” but it is understandable to hear this sentence from those who have climbed on both types of rock. The difference between dolomite rock and limestone is simply at a chemical-physical level: in dolomite rock a mineral is present with a base of calcium carbonate and magnesium which makes this rock different from limestone. The scientific discovery of dolomite rock was made by the Marquis Déodat de Dolomieu (1750-1801), an important French naturalist from whom the Dolomites got their name.

Never give up!

Your base camp in Bolzano. Everything that you need for climbing and bouldering and a wealth of advice to go along with it. In our shop or online: www.mountainspirit.com 39100 Bolzano • via Dodiciville 8A/8B • MountainSpirit tel. 0471 053 434 • Karpos Shop tel. 0471 979 614

THE CRAGS OF THE DOLOMITES To introduce every single crag in the Dolomites to the general public in a single book is impossible, except if one wishes to publish a sort of encyclopaedia as heavy as a brick which would not be easy to put in one’s back pack…The Dolomites is full of crags, a lot more than you can imagine, currently the ones we know about reach 200. In this guide book we have tried to optimize space as much as possible, the result is 552 pages which describe 105 crags chosen to reach a good compromise between the overall offer and size of the book. The choice of the crags was made thinking of the vast typology of climbers today: from top climbers who only think about the grade and want to climb on the best, to beginners who also wish to enjoy the view, to those who come to the Dolomites with their family but still want to climb a pitch or two, and for those living in the Dolomites but want to stretch their horizons and explore new valleys. Special attention has been given in reviewing the “internationally” known crags as well as the valleys which have many tourists during high season, many “regional” and “local” crags where, not so much for the beauty but more for the tranquillity of the area and the few people climbing there, it is possible to enjoy oneself just as in the better known crags. Especially during high season, from mid June to mid September it may happen that for the crowds and the restrictions of traffic or paying, it may come in useful to go climbing in “local” or “regional” crags and may be a better choice. Unfortunately since the Dolomites are the “most beautiful mountains in the world” they are also the busiest in the world, having a second choice in these cases is not bad! For all crags a point system has been given describing the overall beauty (rock, quality of the routes, environment, tranquillity, state of the protections, comfort at base, etc). without

considering the quantity of routes present; crags will be of “international” interest with 10 pitches and “local” interest with over 50 routes. As well as this the indication relative to the interest of a wall can be useful for those who are visiting for a short time and want to quickly choose a crag to go climbing. The “international” crags are the first we recommend, especially if graded with a 4 star. Other information accompanies these two fundamental indications, exposure, altitude, the quality of bolting, the crowds, the noise, the possibility to park and more. All this information is included in the symbols to which a short description is added and a small map to reach the wall on foot. As well as this, a drawing of the crag and a simple comment * for each route, including the grade** and height in metres***, complete the description. * The comment which follows each single route was given by the author thanks to his direct, indirect experience, or simply by evaluating the route visually and does not want to influence the “on sight” performance. ** All the grades are the official ones marked on the reference guide books or given by the bolters themselves. In case of uncertainty with a +/ half a grade the higher grade has been given to the route, a 7c+/8a is therefore considered an 8a and so on. *** The height of every single route has NOT been verified and is only used to give an idea of the pitch’s total length. We always advise to take extra care when belaying the climber down a route and carefully consider the rope’s length.

G. Colombetti

MOUNTAINEERING GUIDEBOOKS Climbing | Mountain | Outdoor Sports www.versantesud.it

Dolomites - South Tyrol

GARDENA VALLEY Gardena valley is one of the most popular valley of the Dolomites and one of the easiest to reach from Bolzano and from the A22 motorway. Famous not only for its ski slopes and for the “Sella Ronda” thanks to its splendid mountains surrounding it, it offers a lot of climbing possibilities. The valley ends towards west with the Sella group from where it is possible to go into Val Badia across the Gardena Pass and into Val di Fassa across the Sella Passa, to the south we find the Sassolungo-Sassopiatto group, and towards north the Puez-Odle massif. The climbing opportunities offered by this valley have reached a very high level: the climbing ranges from great classic routes among the most visited of the Dolomites thanks to the convenient approach) (Torri del Sella, Cinque Dita, Odle, Mesules, etc.), to the more modern bolted routes (Pilastro dei Sogni, Frea and other walls), to a wide choice of crags that ever since the 80’s have seen a rapid development. Among all these, the most popular is Città dei Sassi at Sella Pass with over 170 routes, many of which go from fourth to fifth grade even if there are thirty or so pitches from 7a to 7c. As well as the “città” there are many other crags where during summer it is possible to climb where it is cool such as L Parëi for example, near Demetz hut, Dantersasc near Vicenza hut, Singing Rocks which is one of the coolest walls of the valley where it is possible to climb when back in the cities the heat reaches 40°! Then there is Frea which only sees the sun late afternoon. Other crags where it is possible to climb during summer but also during spring and autumn are: the great walls of Cansla facing west, the small but pleasant Bernardi right in the woods, the enormous boulder of Gran Piera, the easy Busc dl Preve and the small but beautiful Seura Sass above the town of Santa Cristina. The crag of Siusi-Hauenstein has been included in Gardena valley but it is outside the valley, as well as the

pleasant crag Malga Zannes which is situated in Funes valley on the north side of the Odle. CLIMATE

Gardena valley is a narrow valley which lies in the heart of the Dolomites and during winter sees little sunshine due to the surrounding peaks which are over 3,000 metres high. For this reason the climate is particularly cool and above all on the crags more than at altitude, the temperature can require a down jacket even during summer. During the summer there are frequent thunderstorms. MOBILITY

Being one of the best known and busiest valleys of the Dolomites, with only one road linking the valley with the Sella and Gardena passes, the traffic in high season is particularly intense if not impossible. So many, too many motorcyclists who streak past at high speed, lots of cyclists or rather ‘aspiring suiciders’ considering the risks they run pedalling along the state road in high season, enormous coaches, a constant column of cars, lorries, campers, caravans and much more, create great difficulties and pollution for the residents and those going to work. So much traffic on the main Dolomite passes is always an obvious problem and various solutions have been tried every summer (from booking online to go up to the passes to the complete closure during the day) without any concrete results in reducing the number of vehicles and above all the noise. To explain to those who have not yet had the ‘pleasure’, it is enough to point out that UNESCO did not include the Sella groups and Sassolungo-Sassopiatto in the World Heritage Site exactly because too much traffic and too much noise. REFERENCE GUIDE BOOK

Recently published by Versante Sud (September 2019), the guide book Alto Adige Falesie by the same author is actually the publication which gathers together the highest number of crags present in this area.

01. 02. 03. 04. 05. 06.

Siusi - Hauenstein . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Val di Funes - Malga Zannes . . . . . . . . Seura Sass . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sass dla Gran Piera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Vicenza Hut - Dantersasc . . . . . . . . . . Demetz Hut - L Parëi . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

26 36 42 46 50 54

07. Città dei Sassi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 08. Singing Rocks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 09. Busc dl Preve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10. Bernardi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11. Cansla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12. Frea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

56 74 76 78 80 86

10 01

12 04

11 05 06

08 07 40 39

Dolomites - South Tyrol > Siusi

SIUSI - HAUENSTEIN Immersed in a splendid natural scenery at the feet of Sciliar, this nice crag is divided into three different sectors and offers everything you could wish for on a day of sports climbing: nice routes, comfort at base, different exposures and a wide range of difficulties from III grade to 8a. Nice climbing on beautiful dolomite grey and yellow rock, mainly on edges and pockets on leaning walls, vertical and overhanging. The ideal season is summer time even if it is possible to start climbing from late spring and up to the beginning of autumn. The protection is excellent and safe even if some of the first bolts are placed high up. Comfy base and ideal for families in all sectors. This crag definitely deserves a visit in spite of the length of the pitches which are never excessive and even if a few of the pitches, after strong rainfall, stay wet for a long time.

1200 m altitude

NSWE orientation

ÙÙÙÙ beauty

International interest

ÙÙÙÙ equipment

ÙÙÙÙ noise

HOW TO GET THERE From Bolzano or from Gardena valley head towards the town of Siusi and park near the large car park at the bottom gondola station for Alpe di Siusi.

ÙÙÙÙ number of visitors

ÙÙÙÙ

At the bottom of the large car park the evident path/forestry road n.8 begins, follow it and the signs for “Hauenstein/Rudere castello” (castle ruins) slightly uphill going into the woods.

comfort

ÙÙÙÙ parking

Ponte Gardena

20/35 min

Castelrotto

approach time

Yes - No

demanding approach

Yes - No falling rocks

Alpe di Siusi

Yes - No beginners

Yes - No

Siusi

fit for families

Dolomite type of rock

17 16 10 5 5

10 4

2 1

< 3 4 5a 5b 5c 6a 6b 6c 7a 7b 7c 8a 8b 8c 9a ?

Bolzano

PRIMI PASSI

HAUENSTEIN - SIUSI CASTELLO

Castle ruins BISCHOFSSTEIN

For the sector “Primi passi”, after passing various junctions, at a first evident wide hair pin bend on the left, take an evident path on the right which in 20 minutes leads to the first sector which is already visible. The sector “Castello” can be reached by continuing along the path/road which with various signs and slightly uphill leads to the castle ruins which definitely deserve a visit (5 minutes from the sector “Primi passi”). For the “Bischofsstein” sector, from the wall facing south-west of the sector “Castello” where the pitch “Rapunzel” lies, go down the evident path and the forestry road and go to the left following signs “3A Bischofsweg”, once you’ve reached the evident junction with another forestry road, from the woods you will catch a glimpse of the large boulder with the routes (10 minutes from the “Castello” sector).

Daniela, Tazlwurm

01 Dolomites - South Tyrol > Siusi Hauenstein

4 5a

2 3

HAUENSTEIN PRIMI PASSI NORTH

HAUENSTEIN PRIMI PASSI Pleasant boulder ideal for beginner’s on the north face while on the west face there are a few routes which aren’t as interesting and it is uncomfortable to belay (watch out for nettles!). For climbers not interested in easy pitches, the advice is to move to the upper sector “Castello” which can be reached by walking for 5 minutes uphill through the woods. COMFORT ÙÙ/ÙÙÙÙ APPROACH TIME 20 min ORIENTATION North West

1. KLEINE MAUS 2. KAROL 3. THEKLA 4. HOFNARR 5. DÄMMERUNG 6. STEHGEREIF 7. ASSL FLUCH 8. CLESSIDRA 9. UTE KANTE 10. TUKKSACK

4 5a 4 5c 5b 5a 5b 5a 4 6a

11. CICCIO 12. NERKY 13. PELAGA 14. DIE LESCHTE

5c+ 6a 6a+ 6b

15. SIMONE 16. FLOTTER 17. PSIPSINA

6a 5c+ 5c

10m Technical on good holds 10m Starting bulge covered in a bit of greenery 11m Featured rock 12m Delicate start and move to reach chain 12m Technical on featured rock 12m A few moves not to be underestimated. Recommended 12m Difficult move on starting vertical wall 12m Difficult sequence half way. Recommended 12m On the arête. Recommended 13m Technical along the arête’s line with a few delicate moves. Recommended 13m Technical slab with crux, not to be underestimated 13m Vertical slab with crux half way. Nice 15m Leaning start covered in greenery and difficult final slab 15m Initial roof and to follow technical slab requiring movement 15m Physical start and slab. Recommended 15m Difficult at start and featured slab to follow 14m First part is athletic and second part on slab

HAUENSTEIN PRIMI PASSI WEST

6a+ 6a

5c+

6a 5c+

12 14 15

16 17

SASSO GABRIEL

SKI

SASSO RENATO

526

SASSO DELLA PALESTRA

657

Dolomites - South Tyrol > Gardena Valley Città dei Sassi



Sassolungo 3181m

SKI

526

SASSO DELLA MALGA

657

07 Dolomites - South Tyrol > Gardena Valley Città dei Sassi

SASSO DELLA MALGA COMFORT ÙÙÙÙ ORIENTATION East Northeast Great boulder quite busy, has twenty or so vertical routes or slightly overhanging on small holds. Base is very comfortable.

CITTÀ DEI SASSI SASSO DELLA MALGA

4c 6a+

6b 6b+

6a+

5c+

12 3

1. ON THE EDGE 2. MALEFIX 3. EPPES FIAR DIE WEIBER 4. STOAN ESEL 5. W LA LIBERTÀ 6. NOAR WOLL 7. SCHUN BESSER 8. GAETAN AM WERK 9. CENGIA DEI CAMOSCI 10. DOPO LAVORO

6b+ 6b 5c+ 6b 6a+ 6a 6a+ 6a 4c 4a

4 5

10m Bouldery move at start then better 10m Endurance on slight overhanging on final part 10m Nice climbing on good holds more physical in sections 12m Slightly overhanging slab requiring endurance. Not bad 12m Endurance on slight overhang on pockets 14m Technical and vertical with a few not simple moves 14m Vertical and fingery at start 16m Nice vertical sequence half way on good holds 12m Slightly leaning wall on good holds 10m With steps at start not easy

CITTÀ DEI SASSI SASSO DELLE ORTICHE

7a+

6c+

6a 6a+

6b+ 7a+

6b+ 7b

1 2

6c+

7c +

4 5

13 11 12

6b+ 14

SASSO DELLE ORTICHE COMFORT ÙÙÙÙ ORIENTATION East West Northeast Busy rock where the routes are quite bouldery and exposed on three different sides: on the eastern side there is compact and slightly overhanging rock, on the northeast side it is vertical and less compact while on the western side you will find easier routes on nice featured rock. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

GIULIETTA ROMEO GAETANO PICCOLO MATTEO ANNALISA

6. GABRIELE BONANNO 7. LUCIA 8. 15 SETTEMBRE 9. LUCA MORENO 10. DAI ANIMO 11. OSWALD 12. ARMIN 13. STEFAN 14. SELLA MAUS 15. NERONE 16. ZANNA BIANCA 17. LORD 18. PRINCIPESSA 19. LAIKA 20. DIUCK 21. JERRY 22. TOM

4a 8m 4a 8m 7a+ 12m 6a 15m 6a+ 18m

eaning on good holds L Similar to previous Boulder on overhanging slab. Could be better Bouldery on start on good holds then leaning Difficult start and a few moves not be underestimated. possible variant on the left 6c+ 18m Continuous and vertical with holds which are not always good. Not bad 7a+ 20m Intense on slight overhang on pockets on central part 6b+ 20m Continues with nice moves. Recommended 6b+ 16m More physical on start and on final section 7b 16m Bouldery crack and overhanging then improves 7c 10m Bouldery and intense. Not bad 7c 15m Slightly overhanging slab on small holds and pockets 6c+ 15m Vertical slab with small holds, slightly overhanging on second part 6b+ 15m Difficult start and second part requires endurance on good holds 4c 12m Slightly leaning on good holds 4c 12m Bulge on good holds the remainder is leaning 5c+ 12m Slab with pockets at start then flakes. Recommended 5a 12m Varied and requires movement with central movement 4a 10m Technical on more vertical holds on the first part 4a 10m Similar to previous 4a 8m Crux at start the remainder is easier 4c 8m Starting overhang to be climbed with determination

CITTÀ DEI SASSI SASSO DELLE ORTICHE

5c+

4a 5a

4a 4c

18 15

Dolomites - South Tyrol > Badia Valley

ERBE PASS The large boulders of Erbe Pass consist of pure dolomite rock and are surrounded by an environment which leaves you speechless; one of the most beautiful and uncontaminated areas of the Dolomites, between Val Badia and Val d’Isarco, climbing here during summer, when it is boiling hot back in the cities is a must! Below Sass de Putia, there are almost 40 pitches present which range from III grade to 8c and offer a wide choice for any type of climber: they range from compact slabs requiring movement, to difficult overhangs requiring endurance, to more technical and alpine pitches, almost all are well bolted with modern gear except for a few old pitches which need to be cleaned. The comfort at the base varies a lot depending on what boulder and its position. The absolute tranquillity, the absence of traffic, the marvellous environment and the pleasant approach walk, make this area an exceptionally beautiful area, ideal to spend a lovely summer day climbing in the mountains! Ideal for families.

2100 m altitude

NSWE orientation

ÙÙÙÙ beauty

International interest

ÙÙÙÙ equipment

ÙÙÙÙ noise

ÙÙÙÙ

ACCESSO From Bressanone or from Badia valley climb up to Erbe Pass across the roads with hair pin bends and park at the pass.

number of visitors

ÙÙ/ÙÙÙ comfort

From the pass take the evident dirt road/path no.8 until you reach a beautiful farm house which offers a bar/restaurant service below Sas de Putia. From here continue to the left across the meadows along the path towards boulders which are visible in the woods. Along the path, you will find a sign post which indicates the path to follow to reach the pitches.

ÙÙÙÙ parking

30 min

approach time

Yes - No

demanding approach

Badia valley

Yes - No falling rocks

Erbe Pass

Yes - No beginners

Yes - No

Funes valley Bressanone

fit for families

Dolomite

Tour of Sas de Putia

type of rock

ERBE PASS

36 2

3 3

5 1 1

2 2

4 5

2 2 2

< 3 4 5a 5b 5c 6a 6b 6c 7a 7b 7c 8a 8b 8c 9a ?

126

Malga Sot Putia

3 3

Guido Colombetti, Monopoly

127

51 Dolomites - Veneto > Agordino Andràz

ANDRÀZ SAS DE LA LAMA NORTHWEST

6b+

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.

7a+

6a+

7a+ 7b

326

7b+

ARIETE ZED OMEGA3 KILLEX JONNY FREAK CYBERPUNK LAMA MAUS ALFA

2 6b+ 7a+ 7b+ 7c 7b 7a+ 6a+ 7b 6a+

6m Short and intense on overhang 6m Short overhang requiring strength and fingery start 8m Overhanging and bouldery 8m Similar to the previous 9m Overhang requiring power 9m Similar to the previous 8m Nice flake slightly overhanging 7m Short boulder 7m Slightly overhanging and athletic

6b 5c

6b+

6c+ 6c+

ANDRÀZ SAS DEL PINO SOLITARIO NORTHEAST

1 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.

CRACK SUSI Q RIVERSIDE WITHOUT NAME PASSAGGIO OBBLIGATO MUSO GIALLO LACRIMA WITHOUT NAME PINO SOLITARIO

6a+ 6a

7a+

9 7 8

5c 12m Athletic start 6b 12m Starting crack 6c+ 12m Difficult along the first section 6c+ 12m Variant of previous route on slab 7a+ 12m Vertical slab 6b+ 12m Mainly vertical 6b 12m Varied near the arête 6a+ 12m Arête with initial bulge 6a 12m Vertical on egdes and cracks

327

328 Dolomites - Veneto > Agordino Andràz

SETSAS

ANDRÀZ

329

Dolomites - Veneto > Cortina d’Ampezzo Cinque Torri

TORRE QUARTA ALTA TORRE QUARTA BASSA

TORRE INGLESE

TORRE DI MEZZO TORRE ROMANA BARANCIO, LUSY

TORRE LATINA

CIMA OVEST

SASSI ROTTI

CIMA NORD

SASSO CUBICO

SS48

SUD

TORRE GRANDE

“Scoiattoli” Hut

“Cinque Torri” Hut

439



Averau 2648m

TORRE GRANDE



“Scoiattoli” 

 TORRE LATINA

SASSO CUBICO



 TORRE INGLESE

 

TORRE LUSY “Cinque Torri” 

404

TORRE QUARTA BASSA

TORRE INGLESE

TORRE DI MEZZO, QUARTA ALTA, QUARTA BASSA TORRE ROMANA BARANCIO, LUSY

TORRE LATINA

SASSO CUBICO

SASSI ROTTI



“Scoiattoli”

TORRE GRANDE

“Cinque Torri”

405

Dolomites - Veneto > Cortina d’Ampezzo Cinque Torri

TORRE GRANDE, CIMA SUD SOUTH FACE

7b 6b

6b+ 7a 6a+

7b+

7a+

7b 7b 7b+ 8a+ 14

12 6b+ 6c6c 9 6b+ 6a 11

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 10

6b 13 15

6a+ 6b

7a+ 7b 7b 6b+ 7a 16 7b+

6c+ 7c+ 8b

17 18

7a+

6c+ 19

24 25

“Scoiattoli” Hut

TORRE GRANDE, CIMA SUD SOUTH FACE The group’s main wall in terms of sports climbing, it is possible to climb even on sunny winter days while during summer if there are no clouds, it can be very hot. The base is comfortable and completely exposed to the sun all day. Use of helmet strongly recommended since above the single pitches many classic trad routes pass over head. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.

6a+ 30m Nice corner to climb using technique 6b+ 35m Long journey up the rock. Recommended 6b 35m Vertical and “yellow”. 6a up to the first chain 7a 35m Endurance with final crux on roof. Nice 6b+ 25m Continuous and vertical 7b 35m Difficult bouldery roof above the chain 6b+ 20m Similar to the previous P2 ? 6c 20m Double difficult section to overcome two short roofs. For many it is considered a lot more difficult than 6c 8. TOMMY TOM 6c 30m Two difficult sequences at start 9. VARIANTE DESTRA 7b 30m Variant of the previous on the right on overhang 10. MORFOLOGICA 7b 35m Endurance on slight overhang with roof half way 11. CALIPPO 8a+ 35m Starts off in common with the previous then further to the right passing the roof in the middle. Difficult 12. VARIANTE ALLA FRANCESCHI 7b+ 40m Long journey mainly sticking out passing the roof 13. FRANCESCHI CLASSICA 6b 25m Difficult crack with roof 14. VARIANTE FOOTHOOK 7b+ 40m “Foothook’s” variant, longer and more spectacular 15. FOOTHOOK 7b 25m Difficult crux on roof half way

406

WITHOUT NAME SELEZIONE CORSO GUIDE 2003 AGRODOLCE WITHOUT NAME RAMBA BALÙ P2 CI VUOLE UN FISICO BESTIALE FANDANGO

16. VIA COL VENTO 6b+ 25m “Wisely” to the right to avoid the roof… P2 7a+ 25m Continues before to the right then straight up. You can even climb it from the belay point of “Spit Express” or from “Direttissima Scoiattoli” 17. VIA COL CENTO VARIANTE DX 7b+ 22m Difficult start, it then joins up with the previous 18. VARIANTE DIRETTISSIMA 7a 20m Technical crack and roof half way to avoid the loop of the first pitch of “Direttissima” 19. DIRETTISSIMA 6c+ 22m First pitch of the well known “Direttissima Scoiattoli” 20. SPIT EXPRESS 6c+ 22m Endurance on overhang and roof half way roughly P2 7a+ 25m Continuous straight up and vertical 21. PAZZIA ROCK 7c+ 20m Difficult exit from starting roof 22. ARAXAS 8b 20m Difficult bouldery roof at start 23. SULLE ALI DI DEDALO 6c 18m Overhanging and technical to the right P2 7a+ 38m Continues from the previous on overhang after belay point 24. NORDICA 6b 15m A bit discontinuous with a few roofs. A bit discontinuous P2 7b 40m Overhang after the belay point 25. W LO SPORT 7a 15m Difficult overhanging sequence P2 7a 23m Continues from the previous more vertical P3 6b 20m Further up join up with the traverse of the very busy classic route “Miriam”

Torre Grande, Cima Sud

407

136 PROPOSALS Arco - Valle del Sarca Valle dei Laghi - Trento - Rovereto Valli Giudicarie - Val di Non

MOUNTAINEERING GUIDEBOOKS Climbing | Mountain | Outdoor Sports www.versantesud.it

DOLOMITES Crags

Articles inside

Introduction

Sports climbing in the Dolomites

Preface

Acknowledgements