DOLOMITES DANIEL ROGGER
high mountain ferrata in the WITHOUT BORDERS The Dolomites which cancels all borders
EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD | COLLANA LUOGHI VERTICALI | TREKKING
First edition July 2020 ISBN 9788855470 278 Copyright © 2020 VERSANTE SUD – Milano (I), via Longhi, 10. Ph. +39 02 7490163 www.versantesud.it All translation, reproduction, adaptation and electronic registration, either totally or partially, by any methods, are rights reserved for all countries.
Cover image
Along the ledges of Paternkofel © Daniel Rogger
Text
Daniel Rogger
Drawings
Eugenio Pinotti
English translation
Paul Lewandowsky
Maps
Tommaso Bacciocchi. © Mapbox, © Open Street Map
Symbols
Tommaso Bacciocchi
Layout
Chiara Benedetto
Printing Tipolitografia PAGANI
s ZERO mile ook is This guideband locally homegroprwn oduced
ZERO miles!
This is a “zero-miles” guidebook. It’s locally produced! It has been compiled by local authors, who live and promote trekking in the area reviewed. Trekkers benefit from local authors: – locals know the latest news and updates – locals don’t promote only the most “commercial” tours – locals invest the revenues from the guidebook in exploring new itineraries Local authors promote and respect their area: – they review with a local attention to the territory – they pay attention in the same way to any different tours – they meaningfully interact with local actors
Note
Climbing on Via ferrate is potentially dangerous, in which participation is entirely at your own risk. All the information in this guide has been updated based upon information at the time of publication, however it is vital to evaluate every situation yourself before placing yourself in a life threatening situation or to seek the advice of experienced and qualified individuals.
ZERO miles This guidebook is homegrown and locally produced
DANIEL ROGGER
DOLOMITES WITHOUT BORDERS The high mountain ferrata in the Dolomites which cancels all borders
EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD
INDEX Foreword by Reinhold Messner . . . . . . . . . . 6 Dolomiti senza confini as an Interreg project . . 8 Interview with Bepi Monti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Thanks to the many helpers . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Historical background . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Non-fiction books, novels, movies, museums . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Important tips and overall information . . . 18 Routes of Dolomiti senza confini . . . . . . . . . 24 Starting points . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Variations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Key . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Daily stages Day 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Day 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Day 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Day 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Day 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Day 6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Day 7 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Day 8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 Day 9 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 Cadini group version . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 Day 1A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Day 2A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 Day 3A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 Variation Forcella della Neve . . . . . . . . . . . 90 Huts and bases . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92
Along the ledges of Paternkofel (© Daniel Rogger)
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FOREWORD BY REINHOLD MESSNER It was an honor to take part in the inauguration of the Dolomites without Borders project in the summer of 2018. The project connects 12 via ferratas that lead to the mountain huts of the High Puster Valley (Alta Pusteria) in South Tyrol, Comelico in Veneto, and others in Austria, providing breath taking views across the most beautiful mountains in the world. It was in these same mountains that Italian, Austrian and German youths fought during the First World War, which ended exactly 100 years ago. For this reason, the project realized by Bepi Monti, owner of the Carducci Refuge, is particularly important: mountains have no borders, on the contrary, they connect. On 9 June 2018, the day of the official ceremony at the Kreuzbergpass/Passo Monte Croce di Comelico, we mountaineers met at the trenches of the Sella dei Frugnoni, making a symbolic ascent from the three sides of the mountain at sunrise. From the north the Austrian Hans Wenzel, from the side of the Comelico our friend Fausto De Stefani, whereas I came from the Puster Valley’s side. Here we unveiled the monument that, together with the Dolomites Without Borders trails, represents the ability of the mountains to connect, just as today’s Europe brings us together. A Europe Statue of Dolomites without Borders near Sella dei Frugnoni (© Harald Wisthaler)
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without which our countries would quickly lose their way. The paths that nowadays bring so many people “into� the mountains are a symbol of peace: the most important value of a united Europe. A value that is threatened by the neo-nationalist movements currently budding in various countries. To create a community, we must be able to feel empathy for others. Just as occurs when we meet, tired but happy, in the mountains. Reinhold Messner
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DOLOMITI SENZA CONFINI AS AN INTERREG PROJECT “Dolomiti senza confini – Dolomites without borders” is a via ferrata high route that crosses provincial-, state- and language boarders in nine daily stages. The route runs mainly on historical war ridges along the front lines of the first world war. It was opened a hundred years after the war ended with the help of an EU – Project as a via ferrata peace trail. This INTERREG project was born from the idea that the Dolomites should not be a barrier but a place of meeting and friendship. INTERREG is a funding budget of the EU. With this support, regions with similar framework conditions, separated by a state line, are given the opportunity to put connecting projects into effect. The Dolomiti senza confini project was launched with great idealism by many volunteers including the three official partners - the Sesto Tourist Information, the Austrian Alpine Club, and the Province of Belluno. In the course of the renovation, more than one hundred thousand euros were invested in the maintenance of existing via ferratas. Some of the aging paths could thus be adapted to modern safety standards. This made it possible to combine twelve via ferratas into one round trip, thus creating a tour under the sign of friendship and tolerance. Finally, the Dolomiti senza confini, probably the longest via ferrata trail in the world, was inaugurated with a festival in early June 2018. It takes you from one refuge (hut) to another in nine demanding daily stages using via ferratas in mainly high alpine regions. You only need to cross the road once at the Kreuzbergpass, otherwise you always pass through the breathtaking scenery of the Sexten Dolomites and the Karnischer Kamm. The cultural diversity can be experienced in various refuges and mountain villages of the provinces of Belluno, South Tyrol and East Tyrol, which have been brought closer together by the Dolomiti senza confini. When mountaineers from different countries and cultures follow the historic via ferratas of the Dolomiti senza confini side by side in friendship, it becomes clear that the borders in the Dolomites only exist on maps. The creative and driving force behind this longtime project was Bepi Monti, host of the Carduccihütte. No one could provide better information about the Dolomiti senza confini than he. Sunset in the heart of the Dolomites (© Daniel Rogger)
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INTERVIEW WITH BEPI MONTI
INITIATOR OF THE PROJECT
When did the idea of the High Altitude Trail in the name of Peace (Dolomites without Borders) come to your mind? In spring/summer 2014 I started thinking about how to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the First World War. In which way can the delusion of war be commemorated with a concrete idea of peace? The first idea came to me on October 18, 2014, when I set out for the first time with friends and photographers on the newly established trail that solved the long-standing problem of the Croda Dei Toni circuit. At a certain point I shared my intuition with the others: “this new route closes a circle of via ferratas, why not create something much more important?” The trails were set up during the First World War by the Italian Alpini and the Austrian Kaiserjäger. Ideas and thoughts were flowing and soon the dream became reality: a route of peace at the scenes of war! I talked to the mountain guide Lio De Nes, who immediately understood the value and importance of this dream. We decided to share it with the hut owners and the mountain guides of Sexten. The approval was fantastic! The man who coined the name Dolomites without Borders, which was no longer a dream but becoming a real project, was the mountain guide Daniel Rogger: “we call the project Dolomites without Borders because it shares all the values and contents of the event that you, Bepi, have been organizing for years in the refuge”. Tell us, why did you organize this important event at the Carducci Refuge for years? When the Dolomites were declared a UNESCO World Natural Heritage Site in 2009, I had the impression that the main focus for many tourist agencies was on economic advantages. For me, however, it was a cultural and social opportunity. The strong message of the UNESCO Dolomites was to experience them not as a barrier, but rather as a place of encounter. As bridges that connect different peoples, languages, cultures and traditions.
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And this is how the idea of the festival called Dolomites without borders was born, in which mountain guides, volunteers of the mountain rescue service and numerous mountain lovers took part. From 2010 onwards, we organised the festival every year at the Carducci Refuge and all the proceeds always went to solidarity projects. The national and international media showed a lot of attention to this project. Why? Especially in autumn 2016, when the project was still in its start-up phase, the media showed great interest. In Europe, the hypothesis of closing borders was on the rise as a result of the conflict-ridden treatment of the phenomenon of migration. Therefore, the initiative not only had historical value, but was also very topical. The project was not only reminding of the scenes of the First World War, but was also perceived in its deeper meaning: borderlines are the doorstep of war! Our project has thus also developed into a mission to promote the idea of a united and solidary Europe without borders through strength and enthusiasm.
How do you hope to proceed with Dolomites without borders? Dolomites without Borders has a future if the young people go to the mountains, understand the message behind this idea and are committed to share this idea. The aim is to create consistency and synergies with existing initiatives, such as the Big Kinigat on Monte Cavallino, the Pitturina Race and the “Pedalare senza confini” (biking without borders) project, which is currently under development and is aimed especially at
young people. These are concrete examples of a territory that tries to remove all difficulties in order to create something together. I trust the young mountain lovers and I hope that they will have the courage to overcome borders, language barriers and local patriotism in order to harmoniously live out the possibilities that the wonderful territory of the Dolomites has to offer.
Rifugio Carducci
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MANY THANKS A big thank you goes to the many institutions, associations and supporters who have made the Dolomiti senza confini project possible and have worked on the project with great perseverance and energy. A very special and explicit thanks to the initiator Bepi Monti and the partners of the Interreg Project V-A Italy-Austria: Province of Belluno, Sesto Tourist Information, Austrian Alpine Club and CLLD Dolomiti Live staff Thank you very much! Dame Vicentine by sunset (© Daniel Rogger)
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HISTORICAL BACKGROUND With Italy’s entry into the First World War in May 1915 on the side of the Entente, the Dolomites and the Karnischer Kamm became the front line: Italian alpine troops fought for two and a half years against the Austrian Kaiserjäger and the German Alpine Corps. Tons of food, firewood, cannons and ammunition were transported to the high altitude environment. The soldiers made difficult alpine terrain more accessible by widening rocky outcrops, installing ladders and securing rock passages with ropes. This is how the forerunners of today’s via ferratas were created in the Dolomites. On one hand, these led to mountains that were strategically important at that time (such as the Paternkofel) and on the other hand they represented important connection routes (e.g. “Alpinisteig”). Between 150,000 and 180,000 people are said to have lost their lives on the alpine front. Cold spells, lightning strikes, avalanches and rock slides claimed the lives of as many young soldiers as the fighting itself. After the war ended, Italy obtained South Tyrol and the Austrian parts of Trentino and Veneto by the Treaty of Saint-Germain in 1919. The onset of Fascism and National Socialism and the resulting systematic Italianization of South Tyrol led to great tension between the population groups and language groups, especially in this region and along the national borders. At the beginning of World War II, Austria was annexed to the German Reich in 1938. In response, Italy had the so-called “Alpenwall” built along the new border with Germany: Some fortifications on the Kreuzbergpass and on the Karnischer Kamm date from this time. During the Second World War, however, comparatively little fighting took place there. With the onset of tourism, many of the historic trails and paths were renovated, creating a coherent network of paths and attractive via ferratas. 100 years after the end of the First World War, the friendship and bond between the three provinces of South Tyrol, Belluno and East Tyrol is now more important than ever. The Dolomiti senza confini project shows us that national and regional borders no longer play a role in hiking and climbing. Barbed wire in front of Drei Zinnen / Tre Cime (© Manfred Kostner)
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NON-FICTION BOOKS, NOVELS, MOVIES, MUSEUMS If one wants to delve deeper into the history of the area, you will find interesting sources of information in the following books, films and museums: NON-FICTION BOOKS: • P. Kübler / H. Reider Krieg um Sexten Kübler, Peter Verlag-Medienservice 1st edition 2017 • P. Kübler / H. Reider Kampf um die Drei Zinnen Verlagsanstalt Athesia 2nd edition 1982 • M. Forcher Tirol und der Erste Weltkrieg Haymon Verlag 1st edition 2014 • Der Alpenkrieg – Front in Eis und Fels 1915/18 Gunther Langes 1983 • Neuzeitliche Konfliktarchäologie am Karnischen Kamm Rupert Gietl 2017 • Walther Schaumann Schauplätze des Gebrigskriegs III – Westliche Karnische Alpen Ghedina, Tassotti 1984 NOVELS • Erster Weltkrieg - D. Pfeifer Die Rote Wand Heyne Verlag 1st paperback edition 2017 • F. Melandri Eva schläft Verlag Wagenbach 2018 (Südtirol Thematik) MOVIES • Tränen der Sextner Dolomiten – feature film (Schönegger 2014) • Standschütze Bruggler – feature film (Werner Klingler 1936) • Berge in Flammen – feature film (Luis Trenker, Karl Hartl 1931) • Uomini contro – feature film (Francesco Rosi 1970) • Torneranno i prati – feature film (Ermanno Olmi 2014) • Verkaufte Heimat – three-part feature film (Südtirol Thematik – Karin Brandauer 1989) MUSEUMS • Open Air Museum Monte Piana (via Shuttle service from Misurina to Bosi-Hütte from beginning / middle of June to beginning of November; by foot from Lago Antorno in 1.5 hrs. or from Höhensteintal in 3.5 hrs.) • Exhibition „Spuren der Geschichte“ at the old elementary school in Sexten (Museum Bellum Aquilarum, Kirchweg 9, 39030 Sexten – Opening hours: in the high season Tue, Thur and Sat from 4:00 pm - 6:00 pm) • Bellum Aquilarium auf der Anderter-Alpe und Elferscharte: On daily stage 8 you pass here. (Guided tours are offered several times a week. All information under www.bellumaquilarum.it) • Salahütte: Freely accessible. On daily stage 4 you pass here. • First World War Museum Valparolapass - http://www.cimeetrincee.it/musei/ (only Italian) • Bunker-Museum Toblach (Pustertaler Straße 19 – Baumannhof, 39034 Toblach): Opening hours: July 1st to mid-September: all days except Sunday 2:00 pm – 6:00 pm) • Museum 1915/18 – Kötschach Mauthen May 15th to October 15th - daily. https://www.dolomitenfreunde.at/museum - (German only)
Through the tunnels of Paternkofels (© Daniel Rogger)
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Sunrise on Oberbachernspitze (© Daniel Rogger)
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IMPORTANT TIPS AND OVERALL INFORMATION Dolomiti senza confini is a high altitude via ferrata with nine daily stages, twelve via ferratas and 17 refuges. The classic via ferrata route can be extended by an additional three-day option in the Cadini group. Since the high-altitude trail Dolomites without borders is a circular route, you can start from various points. Of course, the entire route can also be done in several parts at different times.
ALPINE REQUIREMENTS
Large parts of the Dolomites without borders are technically and physically demanding trails in high mountains and alpine terrain. In addition to the secured sections, large distances have to be managed in exposed walking terrain. Residual snow in gullies and on rocky outcrops is normal after snowy winters in some sections. Especially in fog or poor visibility, good alpine experience is necessary for orientation. Some of the daily stages are partly very long and technically difficult. Between the via ferratas the necessary hikes can be quite demanding. A very good basic condition is necessary here. The time specifications are rather tight, as the entire via ferrata round is only possible in nine days for fast via ferrata climbers and hikers. Good physical preparation, solid basic alpine experience, absolute surefootedness, via ferrata climbing experience, adequate equipment and stable weather conditions are the basic requirements for the daily stages of the entire via ferrata route. The entire Dolomiti senza confini is not a tour for via ferrata beginners. Less experienced via ferrata climbers are recommended to divide the “Dolomites without boarders” over several years and to start with a combination of the easier daily stages. A description can be found under “Variations” on page 28. Note: Via ferratas are not subject to regular official safety checks. Erosion and thunderstorms can cause anchors and ropes to become loose and easily turn them into dangerous traps. Necessary caution is required!
BEFORE THE START BEST SEASON Beginning of July to end of September. The conditions depend on the snow situation (residual snow from winter, new snow after cold spell). Get the latest information from the refuges or an alpine school before you start. ACCOMMODATIONS The overnight stays take place in refuges. These must be reserved in advance. The huts offer traditional Tyrolean and Italian cuisine. Vegans and allergy sufferers should announce this when making the reservation. Many of the refuges have regular water shortages in summer. That is why there is no possibility to take a shower in most of the huts. CASH In most refuges you can only pay in cash. Most refuges have no WIFI or Internet connection. APPS The app “Alpenverein Aktiv” offers a good orientation guide on the Dolomiti senza confini. See also “Orientation” on page 20. TAKE OUT A MOUNTAIN INSURANCE Anyone who does not have a mountain insurance yet should
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register as a member of an Alpine Club. Most alpine clubs offer good insurance at a fair price. In addition, there are price advantages for overnight stays in the Alpine Club-huts. INTERNET www.dolomitisenzaconfini.eu READ IN ADVANCE In addition to the reading tips on history on page 14 you will find background information on the area in the following books: • • •
Claus Gatterer Schöne Welt, Böse Leute various editions Karl Felix Wolff Dolomitensagen various editions Alfonso Bosellini Geologie der Dolomiten Athesia
MOVIES ABOUT THE AREA Many films were shot in the Dolomiti senza confini area (or at least a big part of it). Here is a small selection: • • • • • •
Die Bergpolizei (series) – Terence Hill, since 2011 (Ita), German: on BR since 2017 Wild Weekend – Bear Grylls (series) – several episodes Das blaue Licht (feature film) – Riefenstahl, 1932 Cliffhanger (feature film) – Lenni Harlin; Silvester Stallone, 1993 Honig im Kopf (feature film) – Till Schweiger, 2014 Die große Zinne (documentation) - Reinhold Messner, 2019
ALPINE SCHOOLS If you would like to experience the Dolomiti senza confini in a guided group or individually with a mountain guide, you will find a good partner in the following local alpine schools: • • • • • • •
Alpinschule Drei Zinnen – www.alpinschule-dreizinnen.com Guide Alpine Tre Cime – www.guidetrecimedilavaredo.com Guide Cortina – www.guidecortina.com Globo Alpin – www.globoalpin.com Alpinschule Pustertal – www.alpinschule.com Guide Alpine Edelweiss - http://guidealpineedelweiss.it Bergschule Alpin Aktiv Hochpustertal - https://www.bergschule-aah.at/
PUBLIC TRANSPORT Most starting points of the Dolomites without borders can be reached by public transport. In the descriptions of the individual routes you will find information on how to get to the starting points by public transport from page … onwards. The timetables can be found on the following pages: •
Südtirol Hochpustertal – Sexten – Kreuzbergpass Train to Innichen: https://www.trenitalia.com/ Bus to Sexten and to the Kreuzbergpass: https://www.holzer.eu/de/nahverkehr/liniendienste-holzer.aspx Bus from Toblach to the Auronzohütte: https://www.sad.it/
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Osttirol Lesachtal – Kartitsch - Obertilliach Train to Sillian: https://www.oebb.at/ Bus from Sillian to Lesachtal: https://www.lesachtal.com/de/service/anreise-busplaene.html
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Belluno Comelico Superiore – Padola – Passo Monte Croce Train to Calalzo: https://www.trenitalia.com/ www.sii.bz.it Bus to Padola: https://dolomitibus.it/it/l/orario-dolomiti/index Bus from Padola to the Kreuzbergpass: https://www.saf.ud.it/cms/data/pages/000195.aspx Belluno Auronzohütte
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Important tips and overall information
Train to Calalzo: https://www.trenitalia.com/ Bus from Calalzo to Auronzo: https://dolomitibus.it/it/l/orario-dolomiti/index Bus from Auronzo to the Auronzohütte: https://dolomitibus.it/it/l/orario-dolomiti/index Bus from Toblach to the Auronzohütte: https://www.sad.it/
IMPORTANT INFORMATION
ORIENTATION Large parts of the Dolomiti senza confini run through high alpine and less frequented terrain, where orientation is not always easy. Especially in fog or poor visibility, a distinct alpine experience is necessary. The aerial photographs in this book provide a good overview. In addition to this book and the map, an altimeter should always be carried so that the altitude can be compared with the route descriptions and the map. In addition, a compass (also sports watch or app) is helpful to determine the direction. ALPENVEREIN AKTIV This app of the Austrian Alpine Club is a good orientation guide, since the individual tours of the Dolomiti senza confini (Dolomites without borders) are stored there. The app works with map and GPS. The individual tours can be saved offline so that the map with location works even if the mobile phone has no reception. It should be noted, however, that GPS loses accuracy near rock faces and in valleys. The routes stored in the app are mostly the same as in this guidebook. However, the Dolomites without borders are described in the app with start in the Lunellihütte (in this book day 5). And on day one, the ascent of the Knieberg is omitted. The variation into the Cadini group is completely missing. MOUNTAIN RESCUE – 112 Many parts of Dolomiti senza confini are located in isolated and remote areas. If helicopter rescue is not possible, many hours may pass before the mountain rescue arrives at the accident site. The emergency number is 112. This always works with reception, even if the provider changes. In a dead spot, which can often occur in remote areas, nothing works, and you have to reach the next point with reception for an emergency call. WEATHER FORECAST Before each day trip the weather forecast should be consulted. In the Dolomites, thunderstorms are quite frequent in summer. These represent a great danger on a via ferrata. Cold spells with snowfall or glaze are also possible in high summer. If necessary, change the route or skip it completely. Following the weather reports are a good help for planning.
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Alto Adige: http://meteo.provincia.bz.it/
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Tirolo orientale: https://wetter.orf.at/tirol/
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Belluno: www.ilmeteo.it/meteo/belluno
Maintenance work on the Alpinisteig / Strada degli Alpini (© Daniel Rogger)
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Important tips and overall information
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Arpav Dolomiti Meteo
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App meteo consigliata: Weather Pro
EQUIPMENT LIST
TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT
Harness Via ferrata set Helmet Mountaineering boots: Depending on the conditions, stable mountaineering boots or light approach shoes may be useful. If there is snow, light crampons and picks are helpful 35 liter backpack Backpack cover (not necessary when using a waterproof backpack) Tour description (this book) Map Altimeter App: Alpenverein Aktiv. CLOTHING Giacca impermeabile Rain jacket Windproof jacket Hiking pants Functional underwear Functional socks Via ferrata gloves Warm gloves depending on conditions Warm beanie Sun protection Possibly light changing clothes for the huts Slippers are provided at the huts Especially when it comes to clothing, preferences are very individual. Someone who is on the road a lot, knows how he likes to dress on mountain tours. Therefore, this paragraph should serve as a starting point.
(© Daniel Rogger)
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GENERAL INFORMATION Toiletries Towel (as small and light as possible) Travel sleeping bag (possibly made of silk - as small and light as possible) Drinking bottle (at least 1 liter, more for the long tours) Small bivouac bag Little first aid kit, Tape; Blister tape, Earplugs; Personal medication Snacks (can be refilled in huts) Sunglasses Headlamp ID card / Passport Alpine club membership card Camera, Memory card, Charger Mobile phone (Charger) Powerbank (to charge your phone) Cash. Important: on a tour as long and demanding as Dolomiti senza confini, it is important to pack the necessary things in your backpack and leave the unnecessary at home. Every kilo counts!
(Š Daniel Rogger)
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ROUTES OF THE DOLOMITI SENZA CONFINI The “Dolomites without borders“ is a circular route, i.e. you can enter the via ferrata from various points. Depending on the direction from which you arrive, different starting points make sense. The different variants start with via ferratas of varying degrees of difficulty in terms of physical condition and technique. So it is up to personal preferences how demanding you want to start the Dolomiti senza confini. The variation primarily described in this book starts at the Kreuzbergpass. This was chosen because the pass is exactly the border between South Tyrol and Belluno, where the “Dolomiti senza confini” project was inaugurated in 2018. It is also situated between the northern (4 days) and southern part (5 days) of the “Dolomites without borders” and is easily accessible by public transport. In addition to the “classic” nine-day Dolomiti senza confini, a two to three-day variation to the Cadini group can be added.
Büllelejochhütte (© Daniel Rogger)
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STARTING POINTS Kreuzbergpass – Südtirol/Belluno
This starting point is described in this book with day 1 on page 30. The Kreuzbergpass is easily accessible from South Tyrol by public transport. There are good train connections to Innichen and from there, in the high season, buses run every half hour to the Kreuzbergpass. There is a parking lot for private cars coming from Sexten at the pass summit on the left side of the road (north). This car park is subject to a charge in the high season (4 euros per day - status 2020). If you want to park your car for free, you can do so in Sexten village at the Helmseilbahn. During the season there is public transport (every half hour), with which you can easily reach the Kreuzbergpass. The Kreuzbergpass can also be reached by public transport from the province of Belluno. However, here the buses do not run as regularly as on the South Tyrolean side. Coming from the south you can take the train to Calalzo. From there you can take the “Dolomitibus” (about 10 rides per day) to Santo Stefano or Padola. From there you can take the “SAS” connection to the Kreuzbergpass (about 10 rides per day). As the timetables change annually and the buses do not necessarily run regularly, it is essential to obtain up-to-date information in advance. (See “Public transport” on page 19)
Kartitsch – Lesachtal - Osttirol
This starting point is described at day 2 on page 34. From the Austrian side you can enter the Dolomiti senza confini from the quiet and quaint Lesachtal. With the entry from Kartitsch, the technically most difficult climb of the via ferrata round is on route right on the first day. By car or taxi, one drives from Sillian/Strassen into the Lesachtal. Immediately after Kartitsch turn right into the Erschbaumer Tal (sawmill). Now you follow the bumpy road for a few kilometers to the end of the valley. There is a free parking lot. This car park is not accessible by public transport. However, it can be reached by a hike of about two hours from Kartitsch. Those who want to travel by public transport can take the train to Sillian and then the bus to Kartitsch.
Obertilliach – Lesachtal – Osttirol
This starting point is described at day 3 on page 42. From the quaint Lesachtal you can also enter the Dolomites without borders via the Dorfertal and the Porzehütte. This cosy hut offers a good place to stay for the night before the start of the tour. Coming from Sillian, at the entrance to Obertilliach turn right into the Dorftal and follow the bumpy road to the Klapfsee. There is a free parking lot. From the Klapfsee you hike along the wide path 461 to the new Porzehütte (250 vertical meters – 45 Minuten). This starting point is not accessible by public transport. However, you can reach the Porzehütte in a 2.5-hour hike (580 vertical meters - 7km) from Obertilliach through the Dorfertal. Those who want to travel by public transport can take the train to Sillian and then the bus to Obertilliach.
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Padola - Comelico - Belluno
This starting point is described at day 5, on page 52 . When you enter the Dolomiti senza confini from the beautiful Valgrande, the most demanding stage of the via ferrata in terms of overall requirements is on route right on the first day. An advantage of this start is that it can be tackled well rested. The cosy Lunellihütte is a good place to spend the night before the start. So you can start hiking early in the morning directly from the hut. The hut is accessible by car and offers free parking. Those who wish to arrive by public transport can take the train to Calalzo. From there, take the Dolomitibus to Padola and continue with the SAF to the bus stop “Localita Moé”. From there you can reach the Lunellihütte in about one hour.
Auronzohütte - Auronzo - Belluno
This starting point is described at day 7 on page 64. If you start the Dolomites without borders from the Auronzohütte, you begin the tour at the Drei Zinnen and thus at the most famous and most frequented place of the via ferrata. With this start, comparatively short and technically simple daily stages with only a few vertical meters are on route for the first few days. This starting point is ideal if you want to add the variation in the Cadini group after having climbed the “classic” Dolomiti senza confini. In the Auronzohütte or the nearby Lavaredohütte you will find a good place to stay for the night before the start of the tour. The Auronzohütte is very easily accessible by car. The parking lot is at the end of a toll road. The driveway costs 30 Euros and each additional day at the parking lot costs 5 Euros (2020). Those who want to arrive by public transport can take the train to Calalzo. Then take the Dolomitibus to Auronzo or Cortina. From these towns you can reach the Auronzohütte again with the Dolomitibus. As the timetables change annually and the buses do not necessarily run regularly, you should obtain up-to-date information in advance. From the South Tyrolean side, you can take the train to Toblach and from there the bus to the Auronzohütte. (See “public transport” on page 19)
Fischleintal – Sexten – Südtirol
This starting point is described at day 8 on page 70. From the town Sexten you can easily enter the Dolomiti senza confini through the beautiful Fischleintal. Ideal if you want to start the via ferrata round “moderately difficult”. The Talschlusshütte invites you to spend the night before the start there. It can be reached in a half-hour walk from the car park at the Fischleinboden (subject to charge: 6 Euro/day; status 2020). The Fischleintal is also very well accessible by public transport. There are good train connections to Innichen and from there, in the high season, buses run every half hour to the Fischleinboden.
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VARIATIONS BEGINNER’S VERSION
A three-day variation of the Dolomiti senza confini is recommended for less experienced via ferrata climbers. The combination of day 7, day 8 and day 9, offers a good opportunity to slowly approach the entire Dolomites without borders and the difficult daily stages. Although these are the technically and physically easiest stages of the via ferrata round, they are by no means to be taken lightly and should not be underestimated. The item “In case of bad weather or exhaustion” should be taken into account in the planning. Here are good suggestions how the day trips can be shortened and simplified. You can find more information on day 7 on page 64.
CADINI GROUP VERSION
This three-day via ferrata tour leads through the wild and rugged Dolomite landscape of the Cadini group. Although this small mountain range is right next to the Drei Zinnen, it is not overcrowded and you can be quite lonely on some sections. Also with this tour many variations and different starting points are possible. In this guidebook the route from the Auronzohütte is described, because it is so easy to combine with the “classic” Dolomites senza confini. The Cadini group version can be integrated between day 6 and day 7 and can be found on page 82. Descent of the ferrata Merlone in the Cadini group (© Daniel Rogger )
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KEY The time and difficulty ratings in this book are subjective and approximate guidelines for experienced, physically fit and relatively fast via ferrata climbers. Overall rating of the routes Easy route Technically and physically relatively easy tour, with few orientational difficulties and low objective dangers such as falling rocks, loose rock, etc. The route can be stopped or shortened relatively easy if the weather changes. A good physical condition and surefootedness are basic requirements.
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Moderate complexity A good sense of orientation, very good surefootedness and a very good physical condition are necessary for the ascent of these tours. Objective dangers such as snowfields, slippery terrain and the danger of falling rocks must be assessed on site. Since these routes can no longer be stopped easily in case of weather changes, a stable weather situation is a basic requirement for the route.
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Complex route Only for experienced and skilled mountaineers with an excellent physical condition and absolute surefootedness. These long and difficult routes lead through remote high alpine terrain and require a strong sense for orientation. Particular attention must be paid to objective dangers such as snowfields, falling rocks, slippery terrain, etc.
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Colours used for the overview photos White Primary route – hiking trail Red Primary route – via ferrata Yellow Variation – hiking trail Orange Variation – via ferrata
DIFFICULTY SCALE FOR THE VIA FERRATA (assuming optimal weather conditions) A
ITALIAN SCALE F As a rule, the route runs over ledges and rocky terrain with low technical difficulty. The most exposed parts are always secured with steel cables. In addition to the secured sections, routes in exposed walking terrain must be mastered. Surefootedness and a head for heights are basic requirements
B
ITALIAN SCALE M Steep rocky terrain of medium difficulty secured with steel cables. Vertical sections are secured with ladders, stepping pins or iron brackets. In some parts the trail can be very exposed. In addition to the secured sections, routes must be mastered in exposed walking terrain. A good physical condition, a head for heights and good surefootedness are basic requirements
C
ITALIAN SCALE D Steep and very steep rocky terrain with difficult technical passages. Stepping pins and iron brackets are placed further apart from each other. The climb is very exposed. Apart from a good physical condition, strength and endurance both in arms and legs and excellent surefootedness are basic requirements
D
ITALIAN SCALE MD Secured vertical and overhanging rocky terrain with very difficult technical passages and few resting points. In case there are stepping pins and iron brackets, the distances between them are large. In vertical terrain friction climbing is often required. In addition to excellent physical condition, strength and endurance both in arms and legs, complex climbing techniques and absolute surefootedness are basic requirements
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01
Daily stages
DAY 1
FROM THE KREUZBERGPASS VIA THE KNIEBERG TO THE OBSTANSERSEEHÜTTE
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Overall rating of the stage
1120 m 550 m ascent - descent
13,5 km total distance
ROUTE DESCRIPTION
6h
total time
DREISCHUSTERSPITZE PUNTA DEI TRE SCARPERI
This day tour consists of a beautiful hike over the green pastures and meadows of the Karnischer Kamm. There is no via ferrata on route, however with the Knieberg (2,503 m) (Col Quaternà) - a beautifully shaped mountain above the Kreuzbergpass - you can reach a very beautiful peak with a stunning view. The day tour is quite comfortable and technically easy compared to the following ones. Thus it represents an ideal start into the Dolomites without borders.
From the Kreuzbergpass to the Knieberg – 4 hours: from the pass (1,636 m) you start on the wide forest path in direction Nemesalm (Malga Nemes)/Coltrondoalm. At a junction with a sign (1,754 m) follow path 149 in the direction of Malga Coltrondo / Rifugio Rinfreddo.
KREUZBERGPASS / PASSO DI MONTE CROCE HAUNOLDKÖPFL
MALGA RINFREDDO MALGA COLTRONDO
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SELLA DEL QUATERNÀ KNIEBERG COL QUATERNÁ ZILLERTALER ALPEN ALPI DELLA ZILLERTAL
The two beautiful alpine huts are inviting you to take a break. Follow path 149 which goes past the alpine huts until you reach a junction (2,053 m) where you turn onto path 173 towards the Sella del Quaternà / Knieberg (Col Quaternà). From this pass (2,379 m), it is worth making a detour to the summit of Knieberg (2,503 m), which can be easily reached via the east ridge. From the Knieberg to the Obstanserseehütte – 2 hours: from the summit you descend again to the Sella Quaterna and now follow path 148 northwards to the Kniebergsattel (Passo Silvella) (2,329 m). From here, take path 160 to the Frugonisattel (2,539 m) (Sella dei Frugoni), from where you descend to the Obstanserseehütte (2,304 m) via path 403 (or alternatively 5A).
!
INSIDER TIP Near Sella dei Frugnoni the project Dolomiti senza confini set off in 2018, thanks to Reinhold Messner, Fausto de Stefani, Martin Wenzl and many others. On site, where Eastern Tyrol, the Province of Belluno and South Tyrol meet, a commemorative tree stump was placed. From Sella dei Frugnoni walking along the ridge for a few hundred metres in a north-westerly direction you will find an iron stump, roughly one metre high, donated by Carduccihütte. Near the Obstanserseehütte, you can descend in just 20 minutes to one of Europe’s largest ice caves. Detailed information is available at the hut.
DOLOMITI SENZA CONFINI statues RIESEFERNER-GRUPPE VEDRETTE DI RIES
RÖTSPITZ / PIZZO ROSSO DI PREDOI KNIEBERGSATTEL PASSO SILVELLA
HOHE TAUERN ALTI TAURI
OBSTANSERSEEHÜTTE
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01 Day
IN CASE OF BAD WEATHER OR EXHAUSTION The tour can be shortened by walking from the Kreuzbergpass on path 131 to the Malga alp (Malga Nemes) (1,877 m). From there you follow path 146 to the Kniebergsattel (Passo Silvella), from where you can continue the tour as described above. This tour is the same as day 4, when you hike back to the Kreuzbergpass using this alternative route. (4 hours) The tour can also be shortened by taking the car over Malga Coltrondo to the Rifugio Rinfreddo. (Junction on the main road between Kreuzbergpass and Padola). You can park your car at the alp and continue the tour as described above. (3 hours) On day 4 you can hike back to the Rifugio Rinfreddo. This also shortens the day. ALTERNATIVE ACCOMMODATION Rifugio Rinfreddo (1.887 m): there are no other huts near the Obstanserseehütte. If this is occupied, the Rifugio Rinfreddo is the nearest place to stay. This extends the tour by about 2.5 hours the next day. (Without ascending the Knieberg) However, in this case you can avoid the difficult Kinigat via ferrata the next day and hike from the Furgonisattel directly over the ridge eastwards to the Kinigat. (See day 2: “In case of bad weather or exhaustion” page 38) This tour, however, is the same as day 4 (5 hours to the Filmoor Standschützenhütte).
From malga Rinfreddo towards sella del Quaternà (© Daniel Rogger) Reinhold Messner along the Cresta Carnica on the day Dolomites without borders was inaugurated (© Harald Wisthalter)
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04 Day
From the Casera Rigoleto (2,080 m), you go up to the Kniebergsattel via the wide hiking path 146, from where you continue the tour as described above. This tour is timewise similar to the one described above. ALTERNATIVE ACCOMMODATION Lunellihütte (1,568 m): if you stay overnight in this beautiful hut, the day’s tour will be shortened by about 45 minutes. However, on the next day the tour is extended by 300 vertical meters, because you have to climb up until just below the Bertihütte. (See “Start of the Dolomiti senza confini from Padola.” page 27) Those who started the Dolomiti senza confini from the Lunellihütte can also descend to the hut with this description. From the Kreuzbergpass, follow path 124 as described above until you reach the Forcella della Biscia (1,942 m). Now you descend to the Lunellihütte via path 171 or alternatively 155. Hotel Kreuzbergpass (1,636 m): For those who would like to spend a more comfortable night between the overnight stays in the huts, the Hotel Kreuzbergpass is recommended. However, this will extend the next day’s tour, which in itself is very demanding in terms of fitness, by about 2.5 hours. Hosting in Sexten: From the Kreuzbergpass the village of Sexten/Moos can be easily reached by public transport. These run every half hour during the main season. There is a variety of inviting restaurants. However, this will extend the tour the next day by about 2.5 hours. Furthermore, a very early start on the next day is not possible if you are dependent on public transport.
HOCHGALL MONTE COLLALTO
KREUZBERGPASS PASSO DI MONTE CROCE
KNIEBERGSATTEL PASSO SILVELLA
OBSTANSERSEEHÜTTE
NEMESALM / MALGA NEMES MALGA RINFREDDO E MALGA COLTRONDO RINFREDDO- UND COLTRONDOALM
CASERA RIGOIÉTO
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HOCHBRUNNER SCHNEID ELFERKOFEL MONTE POPERA CIMA UNDICI
RIFUGIO BERTI BERTIHÜTTE
ROTWANDSPITZE CRODA ROSSA DI SESTO (CIMA DIECI)
DREISCHUSTERSPITZE PUNTA DEI TRE SCARPERI
SALA HÜTTE RIFUGIO SALA
PASSO DI MONTE CROCE KREUZBERGPASS
RIFUGIO LUNELLI LUNELLI HÜTTE
GROßVENEDIGER KLEINE KINIGAT PICCOLO CAVALLINO
GROßE KINIGAT MONTE CAVALLINO
GROßGLOCKNER
FILMOOR STANDSCHÜTZENHÜTTE RIFUGIO FILMOOR
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08 Day
ALTERNATIVE ACCOMMODATION Talschlusshütte (1,548 m): from the junction at the Anderteralm you descend on the hiking trail 122 to the already visible Talschlusshütte. (Similar in time to the Rotwandwiesenhütte). This beautiful hut is inviting for an overnight stay. The next day you just follow the wide road (102/103) to Fischleinboden and from there you can take the bus to the cable car Rotwand. Public transportation runs every half hour during the season. Here simply take the cable car up to the Rotwandwiesen. (opening hours: 8:00 am - high season; 8:30 am low season; status 2020) Hosting in Sexten: those who would like to spend a night in a hotel between the overnight stays at the huts can descend to the Talschlusshütte as described above. From there, walk along the wide road (102) to Fischleinboden and take the bus to the village of Sexten/Moos. (slightly longer than to the Rotwandwiesen.) Public transport runs every half hour during the season. The next day you can easily reach the starting point by taking the cable car Rotwand. (opening hours: 8:00 am - high season; 8:30 am low season; status 2020)
A snowfield at Busa di Fuori (© Moreno Geremetta) The indentation along the ledge of the Cengia della Salvezza: the most popular photo of the Strada degli Alpini (© Daniel Rogger)
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HUTS AND BASES ACCOMMODATION IN THE MOUNTAIN VILLAGES BEFORE THE START AND AFTER FINISHING THE TOUR •
Hotels in Sesto Sesto Tourist Association Website: https://www.sexten.it/ E-mail: info@sexten.it Phone: +39 0474 710310
•
Hotels in Padola Padola tourist office Website: http://www.infodolomiti.it/info/ uffici-di-informazione-turistica/ufficio-turistico-di-padola/8713-l1.html E-mail: dolomiti@valcomelico.it Phone: +39 0435 67021 Phone: +39 0435 434996
•
Hotels in Lesachtal Obertilliach tourist office Website: http://www.obertilliach.at/ E-mail: obertilliach@osttirol.com Phone: +43 50 212 360 Ufficio turistico di Kartitsch Website: http://www.kartitsch.at/ E-mail: gemeindeamt@kartitsch.at Phone: +43 4848 5248
•
Hotels in Misurina / Auronzo Tourist board Tre Cime Dolomiti Website: www.auronzomisurina.it/en/ E-mail: info@auronzomisurina.it Phone: +39 0435 39016
HUTS AND BASES ALONG THE ROUTE The different huts and bases are listed in the same order in which you pass them during the round trip.
E-mail: rifugiorinfreddo@tiscali.it Phone: +39 328 114 1655 •
Rifugio Obstansersee (2304 m) Owner: Alpenverein Austria Head: Heinz and Patrizia Bodner Beds: 62 beds and bunks Website: www.alpenverein.at/obstanserseehuette E-mail: bhp@tirolspeed.com Phone: +43 4848 5422
•
Rifugio Filmoor-Standschützen (2350 m) Owner: Alpenverein Austria Head: Johanna Köberl Beds: 14 bunks Website: www.alpenverein.at/filmoorstandschuetzenhuette/ E-mail: filmoorhuette@gmx.at Phone: +43 664 1127153
•
Porzehütte / Rifugio Porze (1942 m) Owner: Alpenverein Austria Head: Peter Auer Beds: 64 bunks Showers: yes Website: www.alpenverein.at/porzehuette/ E-mail: porzehuette@gmx.at Phone: +43 664 3256452
The huts and bases of the variation in the Cadini group can be found at the end of the list. •
•
•
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Hotel Kreuzberg (1636 m) Owner: Family Aichner/Happacher Website: https://www.kreuzbergpass.com/ E-mail: hotel@kreuzbergpass.com Phone: +39 0474 710328 Malga Coltrondo (1879 m) Owner: Regola di Casamazzagno Head: Danilo Mina Beds: no Website: www.malgacoltrondo.it E-mail: dmina@tiscali.it Phone: +39 333 6882880 Phone: +39 0435 68912 Rifugio Rinfreddo (1887 m) Owner: Olga Sacco Comis Beds: 20 Showers: yes Website: www.rifugiorinfreddo.it
•
Nemesalm / Rifugio Malga Nemes (1877 m) Owner: Alminteressentschaft Sexten Head: Otti and Klara Innerkofler Beds: no Website: www.alpe-nemes.com E-mail: info@alpe-nemes.com Phone: +39 347 0119 360
•
Rifugio Carducci (2297 m) Owner: CAI Auronzo Head: Beppi Monti and Alessio Parinello Beds: 51 bunks and emergency bed Website: www.rifugiocarducci.eu E-mail: info@rifugiocarducci.eu Phone: +39 347 686 1580
•
Lunellihütte / Rifugio Lunelli (1568 m) Owner: CAI Veneto Head: Rosalia Martini Barzolai Beds: 12 bunks Website: www.facebook.com/Rifugio-ItaloLunelli E-mail: rifugiolunelli@libero.it Phone: +39 0435 67171
•
Büllelejochhütte / Rifugio Pian di Cengia (2528 m) Owner: Family Niederbrunner/Innerkofler Head: Family Rogger Beds: 16 bunks Website: www.rifugiopiandicengia.it E-mail: info@buellelejoch.it E-mail: info@piandicengia.it Phone: +39 337 451517
•
Bertihütte / Rifugio Antonio Berti (1950 m) Owner: CAI Padova Head: Bruno Martini Beds: 48 beds and bunks Website: www.rifugioberti.it E-mail: info@rifugioberti.it Phone: +39 0435 67155 Phone: +39 0435 68031 (winter)
•
Dreizinnenhütte / Rifugio Locatelli - Innerkofler (2405 m) Owner: CAI Padova Head: Milka and Hugo Reider Beds: 140 beds and bunks Website: www.dreizinnenhuette.com E-mail: dreizinnenhuette@rolmail.net E-mail: rifugio-locatelli@rolmail.net Phone: +39 0474 972002 Phone: +39 329 6690335
Alpinschule Drei Zinnen Tre Cime Scuola di Alpinismo
Climbing, Via Ferrata, Hiking Skitouring, Freeriding, Iceclimbing, Snowshoehiking
www.alpinschule-dreizinnen.com Tel: +39 0474 712 156
THE VILLAGE OF THE THREE PEAKS
Autumn time is mountain time 185 km Hiking Trails 110 km MTB Trails 108 km Via Ferratas
www.sexten.it
