TREKKING IN THE TURIN ALPS - 12 itineraries ranging from 3 to 6 days by Versante Sud srl

COLLANA LUOGHI VERTICALI

Gian Luca Boetti

TREKKING IN THE TURIN ALPS 12 itineraries ranging from 3 to 6 days

EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD

First edition June 2011 ISBN 978-88-96634-28-8 Copyright ÂŠ 2011 VERSANTE SUD S.r.l. Milano via Longhi, 10, tel. 027490163 www.versantesud.it All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publishers.

Cover

An airy view from Crocetta (3306 m) over Val di Susa cloaked in clouds with Monte Viso in the background - The tour of Rocciamelone, Third stage (ph. G. L. Boetti)

Text and photos

Gian Luca Boetti

English translation

Kenny Stocker

Maps

Carolina Quaresima

Editing

Chiara Benedetto

Symbols

Iacopo Leardini

Printed by

Monotipia Cremonese (CR)

In collaboration with

Note Trekking is a potentially dangerous sport in which participation is entirely at your own risk. All the information in this guide has been updated based upon information at the time of publication, however it is vital to evaluate every situation yourself before placing yourself in a life threatening situation or to seek the advice of experienced and qualified individuals.

Gian Luca Boetti

TREKKING IN THE TURIN ALPS 12 itineraries ranging from 3 to 6 days

EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD

Index

Introduction

Bibliography

Legend

1 The tour of the Val Pellice refuges The Cottian Alps: Monte Viso

2 Il Sentiero del Plaisentif The Cottian Alps: Montgenèvre

3 The Tour dell’Orsiera The Cottian Alps: Montgenèvre

4 The Tour of Punta Ramière The Cottian Alps: Montgenèvre

5 The Tour of Mont Thabor The Cottian Alps: Mont Cenis

6 The Tour of the Re Magi The Cottian Alps: Mont Cenis

128

7 The Alta Via of Val di Susa The Cottian Alps: Mont Cenis

148

8 The Ambin tour The Cottian Alps: Mont Cenis

182

9 The tour of Rocciamelone The north-western Alps: Lanzo

204

10 Tour of Bessanese The north-western Alps: Lanzo and the Haute Maurienne

228

11 The Alta Via Reale della Valle dell’Orco The north-western Alps: Gran Paradiso

260

12 The trek of Valchiusella The north-western Alps: Gran Paradiso

280

Modane

Bardonecchia

Névache

Claviere

Briançon

Oulx

Cesana Torinese

Traversella

Noasca

Caselle Groscavallo

Balme Lanzo Torinese

Lac du Mont-Cenis

Usseglio Novalesa

Chiomonte

Usseaux

Pragelato

Mompantero

TORINO

3 Coazze

Perosa Argentina

Sauze di Cesana

Pinerolo

Bobbio Pellice

Torre Pellice

Introduction The beautiful treks of the Turin Alps are just an hour’s journey away from Turin by car, train or bus. Today, as a result of the development of tourism over the past generation, the city offers more attractions than ever before. It is also an ideal gateway to the treks included in this guidebook, which for some years now, have attracted an increasing number of foreign trekkers. Before becoming fashionable in Italy, most of these treks were already being visited by German and French trekkers, along with Swiss, Belgian, Dutch and other active tourists from across the Alps. The routes chosen for this guide include some of the most significant walking routes within the Alps surrounding Turin, the Piedmont region and, crossing the border, the French Hautes-Alpes, Provence- Alpes-Côte-d’Azur and Savoy within the Rhône-Alpes. The trails which wind through the mountains are not a border, but have for a long time helped to unite vast areas. The various cols of the Cottian and Graian Alps have been the main connecting points between the prehistoric and historic Rhone and Po Valleys, connecting Italy and France and widely used by those journeying between Rome and Paris. These paths running along steep sided valleys bring together the inhabitants of both sides of the mountains, who despite the barriers are united by a common culture, and it is not surprising to hear spoken the Franco-Provençal tongue. From the second half of the twentieth century the practice of crossing the Alps on foot had disappeared. The cause can be attributed in part to consumerism and as a result of an industrial society, which has inflicted the greatest impact on the people who lived in the mountains, uprooting them from the land they had lived in for millennia. As the mountains were abandoned, so too the paths fell into a state of disrepair. The traffic along the paths had been a key aspect in keeping them in good order and now there was no one to follow them. The shepherds who followed the trails up to the mountain pastures were becoming an increasingly rare breed, and today the vast majority of transhumance takes place in trucks on paved roads. There are no longer people passing on foot from one valley to another in search of seasonal jobs, from province to province, state to state, and depending on the epoch, trading in Italy, France, Savoy, or some other province or Escarton. The mountain paths were once the arteries for the movement of shepherds and farmers, dairy farmers, traders, smugglers, teachers, artisans, 6

pilgrims, emperors, popes and armies. Today do not be surprised if the trails have been reclaimed by vegetation, where the dry stone walls that supported them have collapsed, or if the signposts are not visible. The abandonment of the mountain has caused the damage and the disappearance of many paths and is the greatest threat to the network of old mountain routes. Simply by following the trails you can help to bring them back to life. Il Catasto dei Sentieri (The Trail Registry) is a project created in 2006 within the IPLA - Istituto Piante da Legno e Ambiente (Institution for Timber and the Environment), an organisation of the Piedmont Region with facilities for mapping and remote sensing. The register helps the region to classify the hiking trails which may include stretches of dirt track, paved footpaths, pony track or trails, and also to manage the related data and network of footpaths. Their codification with a regional and national code is currently in progress. The trails within the Piedmont region have the acronym, E,TO,S (below) and N (above) of the Susa Valley. The register already consists of 3,000 trails (16,000 km), all identified by regional mapping. Some of these are collected and computerised by GPS tracking and include key points such as water sources, points of support, signs, rescue points, junctions, crossings and stone cairns. CAI has developed a reservation system which allows volunteers who have attended training course organised by IPLA instructors, to travel the paths and collect data for the IPLA. In the future, with the help of this tool, the State Government will be able to commission competent bodies to organise the restoration, signage and maintenance of the paths, with the help of direct or indirect economic funds. Through the European Community, provincial councils have access to the Rural Development Program, which provides funds to the agriculture sector helping to develop depressed mountain areas, for promotion and for tourism. It has also been possible to formulate and approach inter-European projects to obtain funding for specific projects. The IPLA can also identify a number of routes of regional interest and administer them; under the new Regional Law No. 12 of 2010 they will have the power to manage the regional trails, most of which are part of the included hiking routes. But as the regional trail network is extensive, we should not create high expectations. The costs of restoration, signage and maintenance of the trails are very

Cotton grass and lake with Cima BĂ¨rnauda between Refuge du Mont Thabor and Col des BataillĂ¨res

high, the professional skills are not available as they once were, and funds must compete with the other priorities faced by this beautiful countryside. Discovering the identity of the Turin Alps Trekking offers an ideal way to discover the Turin Alps. Walking and sleeping in these mountains helps to restore our sense of adventure and discovery, where the objective of setting out is not simply to return, but is first and foremost to move; walk, rest and walk again for two, three, four or more days, journeying with body, heart, mind, senses and spirit. In short a true trek is a journey of one or more nights, sleeping along the route, where the objective is to walk. The goal, in the sense of reaching a specific geological destination does not exist, it is the mode and the spirit with which we approach these journeys of discovery which are of prime importance. In compiling this guide we have created a shortlist of twelve carefully chosen routes, consisting of different aspects and values which can be enjoyed day after day. This book only describes treks over short and medium distances: from three days to a week giving importance to the experiences of several days, however many individual stages can be covered in one day. The proposed routes are distributed across the arc of the varied Alpine region between Val Pellice, Val Chisone, Val di Susa, Valle di Bardonecchia, Val Cenischia, the Valli di Lanzo, Orco Valley and Valchiusella. In France they cover the territory of the Vallée de la Clarée, the Vallée de la Maurienne and Haute-Maurienne. In terms of cost and time, a trek of 3-7 days in the Alps around Turin is much more accessible than a trip to the Andes or the Himalayas. Big dreams and experiences in distant countries are attractive, but not ones which everyone can afford. For reasons of space the choice of routes does not include long itineraries, which would otherwise limit the contents of the guide. The Via Alpina, GTA, Sentiero dei Franchi, Glorioso Rimpatrio Valdese and other routes cross through the area, but they are too long to be described and publications already exist on these subjects. We have not attempted to describe in depth the natural environment, the geological history, the plant, animal or human life, however we have offered suggestions on how you can get closer to these fascinating aspects. Nor do we disclose in a comprehensive manner the essence and details of the several protected areas visited by the treks, which in the Turin area of the Alps, are numerous. The routes visit several SCIs (Sites of Community Interest, highlighted in the text), the Val Troncea Regional Natural Park, the Orsiera- Rocciavrè Regional Natural Park (with its nature reserves), and the Gran Paradiso 8

Park. Crossing the territory panoramic views span over the nearby mountains of the Gran Bosco di Salbertrand Regional Park, the Ecrins National Park and the Vanoise National Park. The geology, flora and fauna of these habitats deserve the interest and curiosity of those who pass along the paths, so we recommend that you go armed with field guides and binoculars. This landscape with its human settlements, traditional homes, architecture, trades, customs and traditions of people living in the old Alpine lifestyle are equally worthy interests for the attentive trekker. True trekking is not very common or frequently practised by Italians who often confuse its meaning with hiking. For many Italians a journey to the mountain means hard work, fatigue, risk, hostile environments and experiences best avoided, however the attractions of trekking are popular abroad. It satisfies our primordial need to be part of the natural environment, one that we have come to lack in modern society, often distant from nature. Walking is a healthy activity and helps us to understand the land and ourselves. Similar to climbing, albeit with different emotions and lower risk, it helps us understand our personal capacity and limits. In many countries, a journey is a mode for investment and personal enrichment, an experience synonymous with curiosity. Walking gives you time to appreciate nature and humanity, a basic tool to enjoy and protect. Love, protection and discovery of the mountains are part of a process that includes understanding and respect. The Rifugi Amici network is one of the highlights of these treks, which along with Posti Tappa, hotels, B&B, Gîtes d’étapes and Chambres d’hotes (in France) guarantees a high standard of comfort and accommodation for those starting out on their adventures. The delights offered by this network of places include regional cuisine, typical to each area, as well as national dishes. A third of the refuges in the Turin province (29 out of 46) are operated by “Rifugi Amici” (Friends of the Refuges). The initiative was developed by the trekking sector of the Turin and province tourism office for the purpose of promoting hospitality in the Alpine regions (for more information, www.turismotorino.org/natura_outdoor). Within this group Rifugio Toesca (Chapter 3, Tour dell’Orsiera) and Rifugio Arlaud (a convenient place to stay either before or after the Tour d’Ambin, Chapter 8), have even been awarded the Eco-label mark (www.ecolabel.it) for their careful attention to the environment and locally sourced produce. 8 other shelters have the “yes” mark awarded by the Province of Turin, a recognition of the high standard of hospitality: these

Lago d’Ambin, between Refuge d’Ambin and Rifugio Mariannina Levi along the Tour d’Ambin

are Rifugio G. Muzio, Posto Tappa Fonti Minerali (which can be stayed at before or after crossing the Alta Via Reale del Gran Paradiso, Chapter 11), Rifugio M. Levi (Alta Via della Val di Susa, Chapter 7 and the Tour d’Ambin, Chapter 8), Rifugio La Madlena, Rifugio La Cahrdouse, Rifugio Arlaud and Rifugio Cibrario (Tour of Bessanese, Chapter 10). The “Rifugi Amici” circuit comprises of a selection of routes prioritised for the upkeep of the trails, information and promotion, based on the influx of European trekkers. The refuges are starting to develop their own identity with a sense of belonging: their managers are professionals (environmental and mountain guides). These shelters also provide additional services: transporting luggage, participating in joint promotions, developing the culture of hospitality in the Alpine areas where they are “contributors to the local economy.” They work to provide value for money, innovation and as spokespeople for trekking they aim to arouse and stimulate emotion. They also offer accommodation with close links to the services offered by the Guide (AGAE) and Guide Alpine, along with recreational activities for families, schools and special events. Open doors at the refuges is special summer initiative involving about 60 alpine shelters in Piedmont. It provides several events spread out over various locations offering hospitality at medium and high altitudes, those most easily accessible by the general public, well-connected to the trails (and the cable cars) with various routes suitable for families. During the event each refuge organises several initiatives to welcome guests. Tastings with a rich menu of regional specialities, meetings and visits by guides, concerts, demonstrations and climbing lessons for children are just some of the initiatives. During the day refuges participating in the event, sponsored by CAI Piedmont, distribute “Premio fedeltà” (loyalty cards) with the stamps of the shelters, to obtain a certificate of loyalty and the characteristic stamp. Eating in the refuges along the trek is a pleasure and nurtures an appreciation for the cuisine which is adapted to the habitable limits of the mountain, complimenting and enhancing the trekking from the Turin province to Savoy and the Hautes-Alpes. A few details before travelling. It is possible to book your stay in the refuges in advance, and in fact this is also preferred by the refuge operators guaranteeing a better service. Weather forecasts are available and updated frequently in the refuges offering the trekker a greater degree of security than in the past. 10

The signposts adopted on the trails in the Piedmont Region include horizontal and vertical signs. Most often these are horizontal and are located on the ground with rectangular red and white paint marks, on stone walls, buildings, paved pony tracks and mature trees. These marks can be numbered depending on the route followed. The vertical signposts are placed at the main junctions, and have a white part indicating the closest, the middle and the farthest destination; they also have a red arrow and the shortest time. There are new vertical signs carrying the symbols of specific paths (GTA, etc) and specific pictograms. When you enter a protected area it is a good idea to read the rules and respect them. When walking outside of the park boundaries observe your civic duty towards the natural and human landscape in which we are all passing guests, as well as to fellow travellers. Happy trekking in the Turin Alps. Gian Luca Boetti

Lago Sottano, between Rifugio della Balma and Rifugio Albergo Selelries along the Tour dellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Orsiera

Bibliography Alberi e Arbusti, guida alle specie spontanee del Piemonte, a cura di I.P.L.A. S.p.a., Regione Piemonte, 2° edizione, 2004, 12 E. Alle origini dell’Alpinismo Torinese, G. Garimoldi, Montanari e villeggianti nelle Valli di Lanzo, Museo Nazionale della Montagna “Duca degli Abruzzi”, Torino, Provincia di Torino, Assessorato alla Montagna, 1988. Alpi Cozie Centrali, E. Ferreri, Guida ai Monti d’Italia, CAI – TCI, 1982. Alpi Cozie Settentrionali, R. Aruga, P. Losana, A. Re, Guida ai Monti d’Italia, CAI – TCI, 1985. Alpi Graie Meridionali, G. Berutto, L. Fornelli, Guida ai Monti d’Italia, CAI – TCI, 1980. Alta Valle di Susa, Oulx e le conche di Cesana e Bardonecchia, F. Ceraioli, E. Bellino Tripi, A. Molino, Valli e Sentieri, Cda & Vivalda Editori, 2005. Antonio Castagneri Guida Alpina, Cahier Museomontagna ‘73, G. Garimoldi, G. Inaudi, G. Rey, 1990, Edizione Museo Nazionale della Montagna “Duca degli Abruzzi” e CAI Sezione di Torino. A piedi in Val Chisone, Le 5 tappe del Sentiero del Plaisentif e 20 classiche escursioni, S. Camanni, S. Maccari, Fraternali Editore, 2010. Balme: il paese delle guide alpine, Guida al Museo Antonio Castagneti, G. Inaudi, Comune di Balme – Editrice il Punto, 2002. Canavese 360°, Priuli & Verlucca Editori, 1998. “…e così facevamo festa”, C. Ferrier, Editrice Alzani, 2005. Cronache di Novalesa, Einaudi Editore, I Millenni, a cura di G. C. Alessio, 1982. Etiennes des Saints, inventeur des diables de Bessans, mémoire d’Étienne Vincendet, sculpteur sur bois et chantre à l’Église de Bessans, F. Tracq, Èditions La Fontaine de Siloé, 2006. Fiori del Piemonte, a cura di V. Del Vesco, G. P. Mondino, B. Peyronel, A. Gulino, Regione Piemonte, Assessorato Ambiente, 1998. Gli Ecomusei, Che cosa sono, che cosa possono diventare, M. Maggi, V. Falletti, Umberto Allemandi & C., 2001. Gran Paradiso, E. Andreis, R. Chabod, M.C. Santi, Guida ai Monti d’Italia, CAI – TCI, 1980. GTA, Grande Traversata delle Alpi, Provincia di Torino, Priuli & Verlucca Editori, 1989. I Ghiacciai delle Alpi, R. Bachmann, Zanichelli, 1984. Il Giro del Thabor, Sentieri delle stelle, Maurienne, Alta Valle di Susa, Clarée, Glénat. Il Glorioso Rimpatrio, R. Carnovalini, R. Ferrarsi, Terre di Mezzo Editore, 2007. Il Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso, G. Berutto, Istituto Geografico Centrale, Vol. N° 1, 3° edizione, 2000. Il popolo delle rocce, G. Inaudi, Editrice Il Punto, 2007. In principio era il mare, la storia geologica delle Alpi, E. e S. Camanni, Il Tempo delle Alpi, Priuli & Verlucca Editori, 1995. I Parchi del Piemonte, Ambiente e Itinerari, Le guide dell’Arciere, Regione Piemonte, 1999, L’Arciere, 1998. I sentieri segnalati della Provincia di Torino, F. Chiaretta, Blu edizioni, Torino, 2005. La Musica qu’i vìnt dal ròtchess (La musica che viene dalle rocce), a cura di E. Zanellato, G. Inaudi, foto di G. L. Boetti, Comune di Balme e Regione Piemonte, 2009. Le màjess dou bort di Balme, G. Inaudi, D. Taverna, Società Storica delle Valli di Lanzo, 2002. La Nuova Vita delle Alpi, E. Camanni, Edizioni Bollati Boringhieri, 2002. Le più belle escursioni delle Alpi, dalle Liguri alle Giulie, a cura di S. Camanni, Vivalda editori, 1993. Le Strade dei cannoni, M. Boglione, Blu Edizioni, Torino, 2003. 12

Le valli del Moncenisio, guida escursionistica, Comunità Montana Bassa Valle di Susa e Val Cenischia, District de Haute Maurienne, a cura del Gruppo Ricerche Cultura Montana, CDA, 1970. Le Valli di Bardonecchia, C. Balbiano d’Aramengo, vol. n° 17, Itinerari Naturalistici e Geografici attraverso le montagne italiane, CAI, 1983. Lo Stambecco, Da Gran Paradiso AA.VV. Edizioni Il Risveglio, 1992. Parchi Riserve e Prealpi, 153 Itinerari intorno a Torino, G. Berutto, vol. N° 1, IGC, 1998. Pastori, contrabbandieri e guide tra Valli di Lanzo e Savoia, F. Tracq, G. Inaudi, Editrice il Punto, 1998. Passeggiate Archeologiche in Canavese ed in Valle d’Aosta, Cossavella Editore, Ivrea, 1994. Piemonte terra di Emozioni, terra di Parchi, G. L. Boetti, G. Boscolo, Musumeci Editore, 2000. Pragelato, Notizie Storiche, M. Mensa, Editrice Alzani, 1975. Pragelato e l’Alta Val Chisone, Editrice Alzani, 1979. Sui Sentieri dell’arte rupestre, Le rocce incise delle Alpi, Storia, ricerche, escursioni, a cura di A. Arcà e A. Fossati, Gruppo Ricerche Cultura Montana, Cooperativa Archeologica LE Orme dell’Uomo, Edizioni CDA, 1995. Sui Sentieri del Piemonte, Itinerari alla scoperta della Cultura alpina, G. Valente, R. Mantovani, Edizioni CDA, 1988 e riedizioni. Val Chisone e Sestriere, Storia, natura, itinerari, Collana Verdivalli, Kosmos Edizioni, 1994. Valchiusella a piedi, M. Antonicelli, Montalto Dora, 127 escursioni e passeggiate. Val Chiusella, escursionismo, scialpinismo, arrampicata, AA. VV. con carta dei sentieri, CDA, 1989. La Valchiusella, guide Valle per Valle, Vivalda Editori, Torino, 1996. Valli di Lanzo e Moncenisio, G. Berutto, vol. 2, III edizione, escursioni, ascensioni, traversate, trekking, IGC, 1996. Valli di Susa, Chisone e Germanasca, G. Berutto, III° edizione, IGC, Torino. Vanoise, les plus beaux circuits de randonnée, C. Gotti, J-P Martinot, Montagne & Randonnée, Glénat, 2005. Viestess d’an Bot, G. Inaudi, Gugliermetti, Santacroce, Editrice Il Punto.

From Colle del Piccolo Moncenisio the view extends over Vallon d’Ambin, and is dominated by the Denti d’Ambin

Legend

Start The starting point of the stage and its height. The map may show different heights as not all of the data is scientifically correct. Finish The end point of the stage and its height. The map may show different heights as not all of the data is scientifically correct. Ascent/Descent The vertical height gain (in ascent) and height loss (in descent) of the stage. Bearing in mind the unevenness of the terrain this figure is only a guideline. Estimated time The time needed to walk a single stage. This publication is aimed at those who approach the trek as a cognitive experience rather than a sporting challenge therefore the author has chosen to be generous and stretch the normal expected time, adapting it to the walker interested in the trek to discover, and learn about the natural and human landscape of the territory.

Difficulty The overall level of difficulty of each stage is indicated using the Italian grading system for hiking and trekking. Two levels in particular have been used. E, is suitable for walkers and features paths always (or almost always) well defined, narrow or wide, but which do not have any technical difficulties to be overcome, even in the cases where you may have to use hands for progression, the use of special equipment, or navigate when the path is partially or totally missing. When

there is a single stage with one or more individual sections of this type, although limited, they are often mentioned in the description: even if the stage is not graded EE. The stages identified by the symbol EE are reserved for experienced hikers. They will include sections where you will find difficulties along the path or sections with no path at all over more difficult terrain such as glaciers, snowfields, scree, stone fields, meadows etc., or where good navigational skills are needed especially in fog or bad weather. The stages graded EE begin to approach Alpinism with sections that require the use of hands, ropes, hand rails or other infrastructure to facilitate progression. We have deliberately discarded T levels, which indicates â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Touristicâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; as there are few of these. This guide is intended for hikers and mountain hikers who engage in the trek. Most of the paths are graded E, with a few sections or stages of EE. Good physical condition, equipment and protective clothing are always required. There are no sections or stages graded higher than EE, unless you follow the trails in the winter or off season, when the ground conditions and the weather radically change or affect the grade. Finally, the Italian system of classification was chosen because the field of play is in Italian territory, and because there is still no common scale for the 4 countries this guide has been translated into (Italian, French, German, English).

Signposts The type of signage along the single stage, identified on the ground at the time of publication. This is no guarantee of future accuracy, nor for the state of the signposts: this depends on the authorities and competent bodies. The numbers refer to the single path, while the letters refer to the long major routes: GO (Giro Orsiera) or GTA (Grande Traversata Alpina), GR (Grande RandonnĂŠe) and so on. Where vertical signposts are mentioned we refer to signs on wooden poles or other supports, with tables and arrows indicating the direction of the paths with numbers, colours, logos, and travel times etc. Keep in mind that the path numbers are shown on a few routes and rarely on a continuous basis, as they are present on the map. Where the routes jump into France you will have the impression that the signs have been placed more careful, less wasteful of materials, more vertical signs and less horizontal. This appears to be as a result not only of the organisational capacity typical of the French, but also because it is a more common practice to follow the hiking trails, the trails are decipherable and maintained, even though they are no longer followed by shepherds. 115

Water Pay attention to the type of water available, climatic changes offer new habitats at altitude for the wildlife, especially sheep but also cattle and goats. You can avoid health issues by being cautious. Children The minimum age of the children when accompanied by adults.

Footpaths The number or the acronym of the paths along the single stage. Recommended period The period in which it is possible to follow the individual stage. The description (depending on snow conditions) are a reminder that it can snow and snow fields may be present throughout the year, changing in quantity, size and condition each year.

The Cottian Alps: Monte Viso

THE TOUR OF THE VAL PELLICE REFUGES 1 2 3 4

Villanova - Rifugio Willy Jervis al PrĂ Rifugio Willy Jervis - Rifugio Battaglione Alpini Monte Granero Rifugio Battaglione Alpini Monte Granero Rifugio Barbara Lowrie Rifugio Barbara Lowrie - Villanova 17

The tour of the Val Pellice refuges This trek crosses the head of Val Pellice, the best known of the Waldensian Valleys in the Central Graian Alps. The tour of the refuges is an easy introduction to trekking and within reach of families with children from 10 years and up. The route passes through some picturesque scenery, such as the Conca del Prà, forests of Larch, rushing streams, high waterfalls, vast grasslands, meandering streams, alpine lakes and three thousand metre peaks. Each stage follows trails and well-designed military roads, never exceeding 2700 m and lasting from two to five hours. The approach to the trek passes Torre Pellice, a cornerstone and social, cultural and religious reference point for the Waldensians in Piedmont. At the top of the valley lay the three mountain shelters (rifugi), immersed in a treasure trove of untouched nature and which provide ideal accommodation along the trek. It is possible to complete the trek in just two days with one overnight stay, or those in a hurry may wish to sign up for the “Tre Rifugi Transfrontliera”, the local mountain race. At just 28 km long, Val Pellice is among the shortest in the Turin Alps. The ruins of the Santa Maria fort at the entrance to the valley and Mirabuc at its head are a reminder of how much the Savoy state wanted to suppress, isolate and remove the Waldensians from the French mountains. After the Glorioso Rimpatrio of 1689 the Waldensians resisted until the Lettere Patenti of Carlo Alberto (1848) which formally recognised their civil rights. At that time only paths and a pony track climbed to the head of the valleys visited by this trek, but in the early twentieth century a hut (the Baracun del Col Barant) was built in order to monitor the movements of the French military. In 1940 the proposed military road to connect the Vallone dei Carbonieri via Col Barant to the Conca del Prà became reality, and it is along this path that the tour ends. Times have changed and today the Waldensians live peacefully in this valley and the French come and go along its footpaths. This area of the Cottian Alps is full of great hiking. As far back as 1839 David Forbes (1809-1868) - the famous 18

Scottish physicist and glaciologist from the Royal Society of Edinburgh, who invented the seismometer - passed through these mountains with Rey, a hunter from Abriès (Queyras). The Reverend W. A. B. Coolidge, conqueror of many peaks in the Western Alps (with the Swiss guide Christian Almer) wrote of Forbe’s trek. Whoever introduced trekking to these mountains, Val Pellice acts as crossroads to many great journeys on foot and from here you can join; the Tour of Monte Viso, the Tour of the Valdese Valleys, the Grande Randonnée del Tour du Queyras and the GTA (Grand Traverse of the Alps) of the Via Alpina or the Glorioso Rimpatrio Valdese. You are likely to find more tourists than Italians on these paths, in addition to German, Belgian and Dutch trekkers these trails are frequented by the French who having already completed the various Grandes Randonnées in France and are looking for new routes. They enter Italy via the Col Selliere, Colle della Croce or Colle dell’Urina. As a nation the French notch up the most number of nights in these Italian shelters, followed by other visitors! Trekking as a form of travel and as a way to get to know man and nature is not as diffused in Italy as it is in other nations. Walking around here you find some surprises. The first surprise is Rifugio Willy Jervis. This house is always open, always. Opened in 1950 and dedicated to the alpinist and partisan Guglielmo Jervis, (Willy), who was killed by the Nazis on August 5th, 1944. It is located in a privileged position looking over the glacial Prà basin. The refuge is operated by Roby Boulard, Chairman of the Piemonte Region of Mountain Guides, and provides a year-round service. It is one of the few that offers this service and is driven by his love for the mountains. It attracts many families with children, groups and schools practising a variety of activities in all seasons. Summer activities include walking, sport climbing and mountaineering. In winter you can enjoy alpine skiing, snow-shoeing and ice climbing. A second surprise is found at Rifugio Battaglione Alpini Monte Granero (2377 m) at

Adrech del Laus: a true viewpoint overlooking a glacial basin, including streams, lakes, pools and waterfalls. Built in 1928 the house exudes love for its location and the mountains thanks to twenty years of management by Antonella Odin and Ivan Gonnet. Antonella’s cooking is exciting, regional cuisine typical of these valleys and full of personality. It has a certain savoir faire (is it possible to be anything else in a refuge?) and made from local produce and meat from cattle bred in the valley by Ivan, strictly controlled purebred from Piedmont The area is ideal for a prolonged visit. There are informative panels describing the nature, a good bouldering circuit, single pitch climbing, canoeing on the lake, a ping-pong table, hot showers and a few books. You can sunbathe on the shores of Lago Lungo and watch the mountain goats. The Prà - Barant Wildlife Protection Oasis intersects the trek with habitats between 730 m to 3171 m on Monte Granero extending to 3850 hectares (41% of the Bobbio Pellice territory and 13% of the Val Pellice area). Located above Torrente Pellice, Torrente Guicchard and the French border (Queyras), the oasis was established by the Province of Turin in 1976 to replace the Municipal Association of Villar-Bobbio Pellice hunting reserve. The park was created in order to restore and consolidate the populations of some wild species which became rare in the Cottian Alps after the war. The Alpine Chamois (Rupicapra Rupicapra) now numbers more than 200 individuals. Roe Deer (Capreolus capreolus), reintroduced in 1976-77 from the Gran Bosco Salbertrand has been restored successfully. The Ibex, reintroduced from the Gran Paradiso National Park and from the Valli di Lanzo now has a healthy population, which is thanks to the co-operation with the Queyras Natural Park. To think that the species was threatened with extinction in 1800s! In addition to almost all the mammals which can be found in the Western Alps there are Marmot (Marmota marmota), Fox (Vulpes vulpes L.), Ermine (Mustela erminea L.) and Hare (Lepus timidus). Bird life includes the Golden Eagle (Aquila chrysaetos L.), Ptarmigan (Lagopus L. Blank), Rock Partridge (Alectoris graeca

M.), Black Grouse (Tetrao tetrix L.) and Black Woodpecker (Dryocopus martius L.). The presence of rare Lanza’s Alpine Salamander (Salamandra lanzai N. A. A. B. see stage 1 of the trek) has been studied with interregional co-operation. The human introduction of Mouflon (Ovis musimon P.) for hunting in earlier times along with the expansion of wild boar, has required a significant commitment by the institutions charged with managing the park. Despite this the Wolf (Canis lupus) is back here. The Pra - Barant oasis (SIC) was established in 2005 under the Directive 92/43/EEC (Habitats Directive) and is headed by the managing body Ente di Gestione dei Parchi and the Riserve Naturali Torinesi with an area of 4106 hectares in the Bobbio Pellice municipality. A wealth of flowers can be found in its many varied habitats with some thirty rare species, which has pushed botanists and the managing authorities to implement the Site of Community Interest (SIC) found on the 4th stage of the trek, the Bruno Peyronel Alpine Botanical Garden which is situated at 2290 m is among the highest in Europe. Its 1700 m2 provides a home to 300 species of the subalpine, alpine and Nivale groups tied to this particular environment of wetlands, stony wind swept ridges and snowy valleys. And not forgetting the vegetation of the limestone cliffs, areas of Willows, meadows and pastures, where the different ecological conditions provide a home to different species. This miniature Eden is best enjoyed after a good rest at the welcoming Rifugio Barbara Lowrie. The refuge is nestled in a bucolic amphitheatre whose solitude is best enjoyed during week days. Here too, a friendly welcome and good cooking will entice a prolonged stay.

The tour of the Val Pellice refuges PRACTICAL INFORMATION Accommodation: All refuges are operated by CAI. During the trek you will stay in refuges owned and operated by CAI. In all three refuges you can enjoy great cooking and the highest level of service. Rifugio Jervis, Conca del Prà (1732 m), tel. 0121 932755, www.jervis.it, info@jervis.it, www.jervis.it. Rifugio Battaglione Alpini Monte Granero (2377 m), tel. 0121 91760, 0121 930222, www.rifugiogranero.com, info@rifugiogranero.com. Rifugio Barbara Lowrie (1753 m), tel. 0121 930077. Estimated time: 4 days (3 nights), it is also possible in 3 days (2 nights) or in just 2 days (1 night). Difficulty The trek follows well marked paths and pony tracks and is therefore graded E. There is just one short section of steep ground on the north-east flank of Col Manzol (2633 m). The landscape is described below. The trek is best avoided if there is still snow or verglas on the ground. A security rope may be useful for small children as long as you are familiar with the techniques of using it in an Alpine situation. Signposts: horizontal with red and white paint marks (and GTA), infrequent vertical signs. It is also possible to follow the yellow arrows used to indicate the route of the race around the 3 refuges even though the specific route is a little different. This trek does not have its own indications. Environment and altitude The area is formed by two parallel glacial valleys suspended at altitude and a long way from the reach of any roads. The surrounding peaks reach a height of 3000 metres. The stages run along the vertical axis of the valley and it is possible to observe the evolution of the flora from the forests, especially the mature Larch trees to meadows, sparse flowering plants, streams and high lakes and peat-bogs. Along the stages you will pass from one valley to the other over two passes, the Col Manzol (2633m) and the Col Baracun (2383 m). The majority of the ascent lays between Villanova (1223 m) and Col Manzol (2633 m), excluding any variations to the route. In summary it is possible to follow the trek at the start of the season. Children: from 10 years.

Maps Val Pellice, Carta Dei Sentieri e stradale, f n° 7, 1:25.000, Fraternali editore, www.fraternali.it, 2010. Monviso, Sampeyre, Bobbio Pellice, Valle Varaita, Valle Po, Valle Pellice, f n° 106, 1:25.000, Istituto Geografico Centrale, Torino. Who to go with Gruppo Guide Alpine Valli Valdesi, www.guidealpine.it. Guida Alpina Roberto Boulard, tel. 338 6385677, 0121 932755, info@jervis.it. Guida Alpina Paolo Fornerone, tel. 349 7558248, paolofornerone@libero.it. Guida Alpina Andrea Sorbino, tel. 347 9637442, sorbino@alpimedia.it. Guida Alpina Sandro Paschetto, 339 6235078, guidaalpinasandro@hotmail.com. Guida Alpina Enrico Messina, tel. 338 3306975. Guide Alpine delle Valli di Lanzo, www.guidealpinelanzo.it, tel. 329 21417832 (Giancarlo Maritano alias ‘Muyo’) info@guidealpinelanzo.it. Environmental and Nature Guides Naturandando, tel. 0121 81316, 339 5355757, naturandando@alpimedia.it. Environmental and Walking Guides 3Valli, tel. 0122 640069 and Mario Cavallo, tel. 320 4257106, guide.parco.orsiera@ruparpiemonte.it. Collegio Regionale Guide Alpine del Piemonte, www.guidealpinepiemonte.it, tel. 011 5171628. Weather: www.nimbus.it, www.ilmeteo.it, www.meteo.fr Main access from Italy By car: from Turin take the ring road (tangenziale) and the new motorway to Pinerolo and from here to Torre Pellice. Ascend the narrow valley until reaching Villanova. By plane: Caselle Airport (Turin) Sandro Pertini, flight info tel. 011 5676361 / 2, Ticket office tel. 011 5676373, www.aeroportoditorino.it, Car hire: Europcar, www.europcar.it, tel. 011 567804, or Hertz, tel. 011 5678166, www.hertz.it join the ring road and follow the description above to reach Villanova. By bus: from Turin operated by Autolinea Sadem (also Sapav), tel. 0113000611, tel. 800 801600, www.sadem.it. By train: from Turin to Torre Pellice via Pinerolo, from here continue by hire car, Europecar tel. 0121 379581, or by bus to Bobbio Pellice, www.trenitalia.it, or by taxi to Villanova, operated by Massimo Gotti, tel. 338 4055787.

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FIRST STAGE

C.le del Baracun

C.le della Croce Prà

Conca del Prà

FOURTH STAGE

SECOND STAGE

P.ta Pleng

M. Arbancie Guglioun Grande

Rif. Barbara Lowrie

l’Agugliassa

THIRD STAGE

M. Pistas

Rif. M. Granero

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Access from France By car: from Lyon, Chambery and Grenoble on the A 43 via Modane and the Frejus Tunnel, or via Lanslebourg, Col du Mont-Cenis, on the SS25 to Susa and Avigliana, then via Giaveno to Pinerolo, Torre Pellice and Villanova. By train: from France via Modane through the Frejus Tunnel to Turin and from there via Pinerolo to Torre Pellice. Where to stay Rifugio Barant (2373 m) is found along the 4th stage close to Colle del Baracun (2383 m, or Col Barant). It can be a useful alternative stop or addition to the trek. Owned by the Comunità Montana del Pinerolese (see Useful Addresses) it is currently under going restoration (2011) and should re-open in the summer of 2012 with 40 beds. It is reached from Rifugio Barbara Lowrie in 1 hr 50 minutes and from Villanova in 2 hrs 45 minutes. For information contact: Comunità Montana del Pinerolese, www.cmpinerolese.it, tel. 0121 952401, viviana.suppo@cmpinerolese.it. Bobbio Pellice: B&B Courtilet, tel. 0121 932517, 338 3096964, www.courtilet.it, info@courtilet.it Torre Pellice: Foresteria Valdese, tel. 0121 91801, foresteria@diaconiavaldese.org Villar Pellice: Hotel Palavas, tel. 0121 930728, www.albergopalavas.it, albergo.palavas@libero.it; B&B La Meridiana, tel. 339 8492435, www.lameridiana-to.it; Camping Pino Blu, tel. 0121 930795, campingvillar-pinoblu@katamail.com. Where to eat Angrogna: Il Pomodoro, restaurant, bar and B&B, Piazza Roma 3, tel. 0121 944302, www.valdangrogna.it, pomodoro@valdangrogna.it. Bobbio Pellice: Trattoria del Centro, Piazza Caduti della Libertà 3, tel. 0121 957716. Bobbio Pellice (Villanova): Trattoria Villanova, Borgo Villanova 1, tel. 0121 91897. Torre Pellice: La Crota dl’Ours, Via della Repubblica 6, tel. 0121953539, www.flipot.com/crota.htm Speciality food Mustardela is a salami made only in a few local butchers. It is made from pigs blood which is then added to the boiled head, rind, ears, tongue and kidneys. It is mixed with onions, leek and spices. Supa Barbetta is similar to the French Soupe Mitonnée (still used in certain areas of Piedmont), made with cauliflower, stale bread, Tome cheese, butter, spices and gravy. Amongst the cheeses the ones which stand out are the Tome, in particular Sairas d’l fen (hay) which boasts the ‘Slow Food’ award, it is a type of ricotta of cows milk, sheep or goats milk or mixed and made in a particular process and matured 22

wrapped in dried hay. Amongst the various delicacies you may find in some Waldensian restaurants are le plandre (Borragine omelette), i frichoulin di patate alla mustardela (small potato omelettes with leek and a local blood sausage), and pumpkin cake. The local honey is also very good, make sure to sample the one made from rhododendron. Useful addresses Turin, Turin and Province Tourist Information, Head Office: via Maria Vittoria 19, 10123 Torino, tel. 011 8185011, fax 011 883426, www.turismotorino.org. Pinerolo, Turin and Province Tourist Information, Viale Giolitti, 7/9, tel. 0039 0121 795589, info.pinerolo@turismotorino.org. Bobbio Pellice, Pro Loco, via Sibaud 1, 10060, tel. 0121 957727, prolocobobbiopellice@virgilio.it. Torre Pellice: Pro Loco Torre Pellice, Via della Repubblica 3, 10066, Torre Pellice, tel. 0121 91875, protorre@libero.it, uffturistico.torrepellice@gmail.com, www.comune.torrepellice.to.it Comunità Montana del Pinerolese: tel. 0121 9254201, www.cmpinerolese.it, Corso J. Lombardini 2, 10066 Torre Pellice (To). Torre Pellice: Fondazione Centro Culturale Valdese, Via Beckwith 3, tel. 0121 932179, s e g ret e r i a @ fo n d a z i o n eva l d e s e. o rg , b i b l i ot e c a @ fo n d a z i o n eva l d e s e. o rg , www.fondazionevaldese.org. Villar Pellice: Pro Loco, paoloeasy@yahoo.it. Consorzio Turistico Alpi Cozie, tel. 338 2090234, consorzioalpicozie@libero.it. What to see The Bruno Peyronel Botanical Gardens are run by the Servizio Ambiente della Comunità Montana del Pinerolese. It is always open and free to visit. The trail is guided with information panels on the natural history and on the individual species thanks to the volunteering work of the botanists from the Associazione Natuiralistica Pinerolese during mid summer. For information or to book a guided tour contact, tel. 0121 9504206, marisa.bigo@cmpinerolese.it, www.cmpinerolese.it. Villar Pellice: Ecomuseo della Cooperativa Feltrificio Nuova Crumière, Piazza Jervis 1, for visits (private and schools), tel. 0121 930622, 0121 9524212, 012 95241215, www.ecomuseocrumiere.eu, ecomuseo.crumiere@valpellice.to.it, here it is possible to see manual crafts at work such as darning and sewing of felts to supply the paper and food industries. Area codes: In Italy for Val Pellice 0122; for France 0033 (4); for French mobiles 0033 6.

A spire reflected between the ice in the waters of Lago Nero (2567 m)

The Cottian Alps: Monte Viso - The tour of the Val Pellice refuges - Stage 1

The Cottian Alps: Monte Viso > The tour of the Val Pellice refuges

Stage

A short introduction to the tour, it is a relaxing stage finishing at one of the few refuges which is open all year round and is dedicated to Willy Jervis. Thanks to its short distance this stroll through vast bucolic plains, home to many interesting species of flowers, is relaxing and it is also possible to complete this stage in just an afternoon, or if you want to complete the tour in two days you can continue along the second stage.

Villanova 1223 m Rifugio Jervis al Prà 1732 m + 540 m; - 30 m h 1,30 Difficulty

Horizontal red and white paint marks, vertical at the main junctions Paths No. GTA 115 5-10 (depending on the snow level) Bottled at the refuge, from springs and streams along the path >6

From Villanova to Rifugio Willy Jervis al Prà

Park the car in Villanova and continue left on foot (straight) along the road (GTA, Grande Traversata Alpina). Cross the river Cumbaleira with a view of a stepped waterfall dropping for a total of one hundred metres. Continue past an information panel, fountain and restaurant and cross the small village. At the junction join the easy trail to the right through the mixed deciduous forest with Maple, Ash, Laburnum and Larch. Keep left and pass through a few clearings enter a forest where you can find Turk’s Cap Lilly (Lilium martagon) growing. Pass a river with waterfalls and pools, where it is possible to catch a glimpse of the Dipper (Cinclus cinclus L.). Pass an information panel describing the local birds of prey and continue winding along the river left side of Torrente Pellice underneath the steep rocky serpentine outcrops. After a few turns the path rejoins the dirt road (no cars), which is followed to the left. Cross the forest to arrive at Piano del Pis (1440 m), passing a river on a bridge with a view of the beautiful one hundred metre tall waterfalls. A gentle ascent alongside Torrente Pellice passes the area known as Piano dei Morti (Plane of the Dead) (1520 m): The name derives from a sad incident which occurred in 1655 in which at least 36 Waldensians perished in an avalanche while fleeing from the massacre known as “Piedmont Easter”. Continue along turns through the conifer forest and under a cliff leave the dirt track onto a path which climbs to the left (info panel about the Lanza’s Alpine Salamander (Salamandra lanzai N. A. A. B), which can be easily spotted during rainy days. The species was identified at the end of the 1900s (first confused with the Salamandra atra, and is endemic to this area of the Cottian Alps and is classified as an endangered species in the IUCN

Rifugio Jervis at Conca del Prà (1732 m), tel. 0121 932755, www.jervis.it, info@jervis.it, CAI Uget di Torre Pellice, 90 beds, showers, good food, always open.

Red List, (the International Union for Conservation of Nature). Back on the road pass the info panel about the Grouse (Tetrao tetrix L.) and go right (signs for Rifugio Jervis) on a paved trail at the foot of the towering walls below Maddalena (1737 m). Once you emerge on the Conca del Prà plateau, continue slightly downhill to reach Ciabot del Prà and the large house which is Rifugio Willy Jervis (1732 m) surrounded by pastures. The natural environment here is amazing: it is easy to imagine the presence of the ancient glacial lake which has since silted up. If you only have a day it is still worth a visit and it is a perfect walk for families with children. In front of the refuge the head of Val Pellice is crowned by the peaks of Agugliassa (27,891 m), Monte Manzol ( 2933 m), Meidassa (3105 m), Monte Granero (3171 m), Monte Pistas (2861 m), Monte Cappello (2839 m), Monte Arbancie (2708 m) and Monte Palavas (2902 m). At the top of the valley Mont Manzol hides Col Manzol (2633 m) which is the highest point of the trek. It is also possible to see the Col Selliere (2851 m) a section of the GTA which connects to Refuge du Viso (2460 m ) in the French Queyras Regional Natural Park and joins the Tour of Monte Viso (3841 m). The refuge is connected to the French Grande Randonnée the Tour of Queryras via the Colle della Croce (2298 m, south west) and the Colle dell’Urine (2529 m, north west).

The Waldensians and the Waldensian Valleys Present in Italy since the 13th century, the Waldensians have been the subject of fierce persecution, most notably the “Piedmont Easter” in 1655 (See 1st stage). This massacre accounted for 1712 victims, followed by another in 1686, with another 3000 dead and 8500 imprisoned. The theatre for these tragic events of historical persecution and guerrilla resistance were the recognised “Valdesi Valleys” in western Piedmont: Val Pellice, Valle Angrogna, Val Germanasca and the lower Val Chisone. The persecutions of the late seventeenth century culminated in exile, which was followed in turn by the Glorioso Rimpatrio (Glorious Return). The date of departure of this great journey from Lake Geneva was August 17, 1689 and saw the returning exiles back in the heart of their valleys by the 1st September of that year. The Waldensian army arrived at the hamlet of Sibaud close to Bobbio Pellice: here, after a sermon by the pastor Montoux, Arnaud read the famous oath. In the section of our trek which crosses the Turin Province territory, the paths and the signs are the subject of rehabilitation and construction works in order to become a trekking route in all respects. Re-established in these valleys, the Waldensians were granted in 1690 by Duke Amedeo di Savoia a kind of “tolerance.” Civil rights were enshrined in 1848, by the Lettere Patenti (Letters Patent) by Carlo Alberto. Since then, the Waldensian Church began to grow and expand in Italy. During World War II and the Nazi occupation of the north, the Italian Waldensians saved the lives of many Jews threatened with imminent extermination, hiding them in secret in their Alpine valleys: the same places where their ancestors found refuge. Currently the Waldensians total some 50,000 faithful worldwide, of whom about 35,000 reside in the Waldensian Valleys, whose centre is Torre Pellice attending 18 local churches, 41 in Piedmont and 120 distributed across the country. During the last week of August each year, members of the churches of these valleys are found in Torre Pellice for the Waldensian Synod, meeting to form the most important decision of their church.

“The three frontier refuges” The Tre Rifugi Val Pellice (three refuges of Val Pellice) is a mountain race which first took place in 1972. Apart for an interruption between 1996 and 2000 the competition took place every year. The event known as “Trofeo 3 Rifugi” was created by CAI Uget di Torre Pellice who also operate the 3 refuges which the race unites. Today it makes up part of the Italian skyrunning calendar and takes place every year in July. In 1981 162 pairs took part, 153 of which finished. The race was originally designed for pairs, but now it is also possible to take part solo. The record is currently held by Claudio Galeazzi in 2 hrs 2 minutes and 14 seconds. The race course is 21.8km long with 1650 m of ascent and descent. In part it follows the itinerary of the Tour dei Rifugi della Val Pellice on footpaths and tracks. Since the recent widening of the route across the territory between the alpine community of Val Pellice and the Parco Naturale Regionale del Queyras (F), the event is today called “Tre Rifugi Transfrontaliera”. The start is at Villanova and the finish is at Rifugio Willy Jervis. To find out more visit, www.3rifugivalpellice.it.

The Cottian Alps: Monte Viso - The tour of the Val Pellice refuges - Stage 2

The Cottian Alps: Monte Viso > The tour of the Val Pellice refuges

Stage

The small amount of ascent and medium distance make this an ideal way to reach the uncontaminated high Val Pellice. The untouched nature of this beautiful mountain, in particular its plant life, will surprise those who pay attention to its details. The stage is also an ideal excuse to sample the local cuisine.

Rifugio Willy Jervis at Conca del Prà 1732 m Rifugio Battaglione Alpini Monte Granero 2377 m + 370 m; - 25 m h 2,45 Difficulty

Horizontal red and white paint marks, vertical and the main junctions

Paths No. GTA 116 6-10 (depending on snow cover) Bottled from the refuge, springs and streams along the path >7

From Rifugio Willy Jervis to Rifugio Battaglione Alpini Monte Granero

From the refuge continue south along the Path No. 116 on the GTA, making a gentle descent along a dirt track. Pass close to an alpine farm with pigs, cows and other agriculture and exit on the right of the small village of Prà (1713 m). In summer the two settlements in the Conca del Prà are habituated. Continue along the GTA amongst meadows and Larch trees on the river left of Torrente Pellice. Beyond another field meet an antique wall which divides the territory to arrive at a plateau and pass the houses of Partia d’Amunt (1745 m) on the right over an avalanche barrier. At a junction there are two possibilities you can follow. Alternative via Path No. 116 Instead of following the GTA continue along the river left side of Torrente Pellice. Passing the river which descends from Monte Arbancie (2709 m) continue in slight ascent, becoming steeper. Move away from the river to follow it parallel along a rocky rise. Traverse the river which descends Monte Cappello (2839 m) ignoring the traces of a minor path which deviates west, continue slightly uphill to a plateau. Pass close to a marker stone and a the wreckage of a plane to rejoin the GTA. Following the description below arrive at Rifugio Battaglione Alpini Monte Granero (2377 m).

Rifugio Battaglione Alpini Monte Granero (2377 m), owned by CAI Uget Val Pellice, tel. 0121 91760, or 0121 930222, www.rifugiogranero.com, info@rifugiogranero.com, 48 beds and open from the 3rd week of June to the 3rd Sunday of September.

Descend to the left (east) and pass the central branch of Torrente Pellice. Bend right (south) and following the GTA path cross the plateau. Climb making several turns in a Larch forest with Rhododendrons (Rhododendron ferrugineum L.), Great Yellow Gentians (Gentiana lutea L., with opposite leaves) and White Hellebore (Veratrum album L., distinguishable from the previous species by its alternating leaves) and the delicious Blueberry (Vacciniun myrtillus L.). Botany lovers will appreciate the local plantations of the rare Alpine Clematis (Clematis alpina). Higher up, the relicts of a sparse Larch forest boasts some ancient trees, with beautiful views of the Conca del Prà. Following a parallel route to the variant described above pass a steep section, in view of a beautiful waterfall. At the limit of vegetation cross some modest plateaus, from which you can see Rifugio Battaglione Alpini Monte Granero (2377 m). Arriving at Pian Seneive (2060 m), you will find a CAI memorial stone standing in memory of the 9 U.S. marines killed whilst on duty on July 21, 1957. The U.S Navy plane (usually operating at sea) from the Brunswick Naval Air Station was temporarily deployed to Aviano (PN) and was engaged in the search for a similar U.S. aircraft, the P2V-6 “Neptune” - usually based at NAS Willow Grove in Pennsylvania which was later found on the Fredusta glacier in the Dolomites - crashed to the

ground, where today there are still parts of the aircraft: propeller, engines and under carriage. On the plateau ford the stream that runs off Lago del Mal Consej (slightly higher and to the east, reached by a track in 20 minutes). Go right and ford the Torrente Pellice over rocks and on its left side cut across a slope. Rejoin the path described above which comes in from the right. After a cairn with coloured layers cross the river on a wooden walkway. Continue on the river right bank and begin the ascent of the moraine passing to the side of a water outlet. Reaching the ridge of the moraine follow it until it splits, and then continue on the left ridge with nice views over the valley. Continue over sheepbacks and boulders to arrive at a crossroads and turn right to the wide Lago Lungo (2356 m). Retrace your steps left passing the foot of a relief on top of which stands Rifugio Battaglione Alpini Monte Granero (2377) overlooking the banks of a beautiful little lake.

An Alpine Primula on the rocks close to Rifugio Battaglione Alpini Monte Granero

The Cottian Alps: Monte Viso - The tour of the Val Pellice refuges - Stage 3

The Cottian Alps: Monte Viso > The tour of the Val Pellice refuges

Stage

This is the central section of the trek and also the wildest. The highest point is the crossing of Col Manzol (2700 m), whose descent has a short section that requires attention (avoid when under snow and verglas). The moderate ascent and distance make this a stage which can be enjoyed in peace. For those wishing to complete the trek in two days it is possible to combine this stage with stage 4. It is also possible to join the Tour of Monte Viso.

Rifugio Battaglione Alpini Monte Granero 2377 m Rif. Barbara Lowrie 1753 m + 365 m; - 990 m h 3,20 With a delicate section at the beginning of the descent from Col Manzol which should be avoided in cases of snow

Horizontal red and white paint marks, vertical at the main junctions

Paths No. 116 112 6-10 (depending on snow conditions) Bottled water from the refuge, springs or streams along the path >9

From Rifugio Battaglione Alpini Monte Granero to Rifugio Barbara Lowrie via Col Manzol

Leave the small lake on the left and continue along path No. 116, passing rocks smoothed by glacial erosion and isolated erratic boulders direct to Lago Nero and Col Manzol between Monte Manzol (2933 m), Monte Meidassa (3105 m ) and Monte Granero (3171 m). Ascend the river right side of a watercourse, pass a relief and continue over screes to an ancient landslide. Pass to the left of a relief (2610 m) along a beautiful stretch of well indicated track with its edges defined by stones to reach a bowl. At a junction go left, avoiding on the right the picturesque Lago Nero (2567 m): the reflection of green water is usually covered by snow and ice until early summer. With a few twists and traverses the path continues past the last rocky slope (snow in early summer). Looking down on the valley it is easy to see how the paleo landslide has blocked the mouth of the glacial valley containing the lake. Climbing the last steep slope, two depressions appear on the crest. Take the one on the left and continue right just before the col to reach the true Col Manzol (2700 m) located just to the left (north) of some rocky teeth. On the edge of the watershed between the head of Val Pellice and the upper Valle dei Carbonieri meet a cairn of stones which marks the col. This area is frequented by mountain goats. Trail No. 112 is well indicated by red and white paint marks and yellow painted arrows - Tour of the 3 Val Pellice refuges (which is followed in the opposite direction) - and heads north east etched into the rock. The descent begins with the most delicate section of the trek, short but a bit exposed with a large drop. Be careful with children, especially

Rifugio Barbara Lowrie (1753 m), Pis della Rossa, in the upper Valle dei Carbonieri (Bobbio Pellice), CAI Uget, Torre Pellice, tel. 0121 930077, cinziayuki@yahoo.it, tel. 333 3165464, 24 beds and is open from 1st June to 31/10, with basic hotel services.

when there is snow, verglas or bad weather. Descend the narrow gully making sharp turns. A little further down the gully widens gradually making the route easier and more enjoyable to the scree below. Continue to descend without difficulty over the scree under the impressive eastern walls of Monte Manzol (2933 m). Continue past some boulders heading east over fairly flat terrain to a stream. At a junction (2370 m) turn left (west, vertical wooden signs and painted signs on rocks for Rifugio Barbara Lowrie). Short alternative loop Following the path on the right which climbs the river left bank of the stream, pass beside the small Lago Arbancie (2450 m) and continue along the gentle slopes of the valley. A steeper section reaches the remote end of the Lago Piena Sia valley (2555 m) and continue around its eastern shore. Finally a ramp leads to Colle Armoine (2692 m) with fine views of Monte Viso (3841 m). Return to the refuge along the path of ascent. Ascent/Descent: + 320 m, - 320 m; estimated time: 2 hours; difficulty: E. With your back to Monte Meidassa enter into Vallone del Pis. Continue across a nice grassy plateau crossed by a stream that forms a â&#x20AC;&#x153;Vâ&#x20AC;?. Descend to cross the first gully (snow early in the season) and then a smaller second. Make a gentle descent over the grasslands of a valley parallel to the river, suspended by a rib of limestone schists between the limit of the Larch trees and patches

of rhododendrons. Cut across the meadows to reach a hill with a rock and magnificent views of Comba del Pis, the basin that is home to Rifugio Barbara Lowrie. Descend and ford a stream, the path now cuts across the hillside enjoying views of the picturesque Rifugio Barbara Lowrie (1753 m) basin. Cross a small stream and pass a relief of schists to a gully. Pass the streams flowing from a waterfall and continue through rhododendrons and Larch trees. A final flat clearing leads to Comba del Pis which is crossed by the Torrente Guicchard. Cross the stream over a bridge and continue along the dirt road right to Rifugio Barbara Lowrie. It is located in a pleasant pasture with a herd of cows. On the plateau there are some beautiful boulder problems. It is best to visit during the week when it is most comfortable: on weekends you will find a noisy crowd of tourists here arriving by car from Bobbio Pellice, disturbing the quiet and charming amphitheatre. Note: early in the season ask for information at Rifugio Battaglione Alpini Monte Granero regarding the condition of snow in the section north east of Col Manzol. You should avoid this section in conditions of snow or ice. The walk to Rifugio Barbara Lowrie is not recommended at weekends because of overcrowding.

At Lago Nero climbing to Colle Manzol, between Rifugio Battaglione Alpini Monte Granero and Rifugio B. Lowrie

The Cottian Alps: Monte Viso - The tour of the Val Pellice refuges - Stage 4

The Cottian Alps: Monte Viso > The tour of the Val Pellice refuges

Stage

This is the final stage of the trek, and it also has the largest amount of ascent and descent. It is less often visited than the other stages and passes the two points of access to the parallel valleys of the trek (Val Pellice and Valle dei Carbonieri) passing from Comba del Pis to Conca del Prà via the Colle del Barant and the Bruno Peyronel Alpine Botanical Gardens.

Rif. Barbara Lowrie 1753 m Villanova 1223 m + 1250 m; - 720 m h 4,50 Difficulty

Horizontal red and white paint marks, vertical at the main junctions

Paths No. 117 GTA 6-10 (depending on snow conditions) Bottled in the refuge and from springs or streams along the path >7

From Rifugio Barbara Lowrie to Villanova via Colle del Barant and Rifugio Willy Jervis at Conca del Prà

Note: this stage is visited less often and is undertaken mostly on tracks and large paths. From the refuge pass a small bridge over the Torrente Guicchard and descend towards the valley on a narrow and steep tarmac road until reaching an enormous boulder (information panel). Turn left on a track (no entry to cars) and start to ascend towards Col Barant (2383 m). The military road passes an open Larch forest, rhododendrons and other interesting flowers. Go around the foothills of Punta Pleng (2656 m) and after a curve go right (bench) to Alpe La Russa. Leaving the Larch trees turn west and enter a valley often occupied by shepherds and sheep. The military road makes a wide semicircular path, leave it via a shortcut on the right which crosses a field with a stream. There is an alpine pasture here and it is possible to see marmots. On the opposite side the path rejoins the track and climbs a steep slope with many switch-backs and traverses. Follow either this track, or the steeper more direct path. There are good views of Monte Viso (3848 m) with the east crest and Couloir Coolidge which cuts into the north face. The well defined military track leads to a weather station and Rifugio del Col Barant (2373 m). The refuge is currently closed, but it is in an isolated and panoramic position, so it is hoped that it will be reopened soon. To the side of the refuge the narrow rocky Col Barant (2383 m) leads over the pass to descend along the GTA, crossing the south west slope of Monte Curbarant. Continue to the Bruno

Rifugio Jervis at Conca del Prà (1732 m), tel. 0121 932755, www.jervis.it, info@jervis.it, CAI Uget di Torre Pellice, 90 beds, showers, good food, always open. From summer 2012 Rifugio Barant should also be open (see: Practical Information, Where to stay).

Peyronel Alpine Botanical Gardens, with its house and wooden fenced off area which provides a view point over Val Pellice. Difficult to reach, the garden can only be visited 3 months per year. Continue on the military road making a long traverse to a small col (2205 m) where the path turns left (south), avoiding on the right Colletta (2219 m) and the path to Gugliassa (1992 m). From here on in the path alternates between sections of good path and sections which have deteriorated due to rain, landslides and vegetation. The path is followed alternating between long traverses, a series of turns and spaced patches of Larch trees. In some sections there are some short cuts along the path. Around 2000 metres enter a forest to reach Conca del PrĂ close to Fontana Curbarant. Take either the left or right path to traverse some scree and run-offs from Torrente Pellice (1706 m). Follow a recently repaired road or a footpath

and pass Rifugio Jervis al PrĂ (1732 m). If you go right before passing a river you will avoid the short climb to the refuge. From the refuge, follow the description of the 1st stage to end the trek in Villanova.

Flowering rhododendrons (Rhododendron ferrugineum L.) on the schist rocks close to Col Barant