YOGASCENT English

PERFORMA

YOGASCENT The connection between the discipline of Yoga and conscious climbing

Alberto Milani with Cristine Spiezia EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD

First edition: February 2022 ISBN 978 88 55471 237 Copyright © VERSANTE SUD S.r.l. via Rosso di San Secondo, 1 20134 - Milano, Italy www.versantesud.it All rights reserved world wide. No part of this book can be translated, electronically copied, reproduced, adapted partially or totally by any means.

Cover: Alberto Milani in Eka Pada Bakasana in front of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo (© Milani’s Collection) English translation: Silvia Rialdi Layout: Miriam Romeo Print: Press Grafica s.r.l. – Gravellona Toce (VB), Italy

Alberto Milani and Cristine Spiezia

YOGASCENT The connection between the discipline of Yoga and conscious climbing

EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD

4

YOGASCENT The connection between the discipline of Yoga and conscious climbing This handbook aims at presenting the connections existing between Yoga and climbing, exploring not only the awareness of body, breath and psychological dynamics, but also contextualizing them in the spiritual path of this millennial discipline. The objective is to show how Yoga techniques can be turned to climbing at a physical and mental level, and to demonstrate that climbing, if experienced with the right attitude, can become itself a form of Yoga.

After an introduction where the bases of Yoga are presented and its connection with climbing is synthetized, the book reserves a substantial part to the description of the most important Yoga positions (Asanas) and several sequences conceived for climbers, explaining in depth their benefit in climbing. Next, different breathing techniques are described (Pranayama) that can be applied to climbing, then the fundamentals of meditation are analysed, as well as how climbing can become a form of meditation in movement.

A chapter follows concerning Yoga relaxation techniques and an explanation of how Yoga’s ethical and moral codes (Yama and Niyama) can find an application in the present climbing world.

Finally, further investigation takes place in a wide Appendix.

This handbook turns to those who search in Yoga a complementary training to improve as climbers, as well as those who are interested in reaching the heart of Yoga and having a deeper vision of their vertical passion.

The second edition is a considerable revision and widening of the previous one, where those who appreciated the first version can find many other techniques and new ideas.

5

contents INTRODUCTION TO THE SECOND EDITION � 8 THE CONNECTION BETWEEN YOGA AND CLIMBING �������������������������������������������������������������������� 12 Introduction �������������������������������������������������������������������������������� Spirituality, Yoga and climbing: historical background ������������������������������������������������������������ What is Yoga ������������������������������������������������������������������������������� Yoga for climbing ���������������������������������������������������������������������

14 15 25 31

ASANAS AND YOGA SEQUENCES: THEORY AND PRACTICE �������������������������������������������� 40

Introduction �������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 42 Asanas in Yoga and in climbing ����������������������������������������� 44 Asanas for climbing ���������������������������������������������������������������� 50 - Asanas for the trunk - Asanas for balance and standing - Asanas for hips and lower limbs - Asanas for shoulders, core and upper limbs - Neutral Asanas for Pranayama and meditation Vinyasa – Yoga sequences for climbing ���������������������� 229 - Surya Namaskara – Salute to the Sun - Chandra Namaskara – Salute to the Moon - Sequence of Vrksasana - Sequence of Trikonasana - Yoga sequence before climbing - Yoga sequence after climbing - Maha Mudra – The great seal - Sequences for abdominals and core - Sequence for hip flexibility - Extended sequence for lower limbs - Sequence for balance - Short sequence for arm resistance - Short sequence for shoulder opening and flexibility - Extended sequence for shoulders and upper limbs - Complete short sequence - Complete sequence Bandhas and their meaning in Yoga and climbing � 276

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PRANAYAMA TECHNIQUES IN CLIMBING ����������������������������������������������������������������������� 284 Introduction ����������������������������������������������������������������������������� 286 Pranayama and yogic breathing ������������������������������������� 289 Pranayama applied to climbing �������������������������������������� 292 Pranayama techniques ������������������������������������������������������� 294 - Ujjayi Pranayama – The victorious breath - The three breathing bands - Complete yogic breathing – Dirgha Pranayama - Triangular breathing - Squared breathing – Sama Vrtti Pranayama - Alternated nostril breathing - Kumbhaka – Breath retention - Viloma Pranayama – Interrupted breathing - Kapalabhati – The skull shining breath - Bhastrika – The bellows breath - Sitkari Pranayama – The hissing breath - Bhramari Pranayama – The bee breath Extended practices of Pranayama �������������������������������� 321 - First practice – calming fears, anxieties or emotional tensions - Second practice – activating body and mind before climbing - Third practice – restoring the inner balance and calming tensions or energies in excess after climbing - Fourth practice – for breath awareness and introduction to meditation

MEDITATION IN AND FOR CLIMBING ���������� 326 Introduction ����������������������������������������������������������������������������� Meditation in Yoga ���������������������������������������������������������������� Meditation in climbing �������������������������������������������������������� Meditation practices ������������������������������������������������������������ - Visualization of an ascent - Focusing on a part of the body - Meditation on Chakras

328 331 334 338

- So Ham/Hong So - Kriya – Arohan Awarohan - Sankalpa and the concept of intention in climbing

RELAXATION TECHINQUES ���������������������������������� 352 Introduction ������������������������������������������������������������������������������ Relaxation in Yoga ����������������������������������������������������������������� Relaxation in climbing ��������������������������������������������������������� Relaxation techniques ��������������������������������������������������������� - Savasana: Deep Relaxation - Yoga Nidra

354 355 356 357

YAMA AND NIYAMA IN CLIMBING ������������������� 368 Introduction ������������������������������������������������������������������������������ Yama and Niyama in Yoga �������������������������������������������������� Yama and climbing ���������������������������������������������������������������� Niyama and climbing ������������������������������������������������������������ A final comment ���������������������������������������������������������������������

370 371 373 376 382

APPENDIX ������������������������������������������������������������������������������ 385 The role of a Yoga teacher and Yoga for climbing ��� Chakras in Yoga for climbing �������������������������������������������� Yoga practice for female climbers pre and post childbirth �������������������������������������������������������� - Yoga practice for climbers during pregnancy - Yoga practice for climbers post childbirth Mental Training concerning meditation and relaxation practices ����������������������������������������������������� The scientific approach to the body-mind connection �������������������������������������������� Mudras and their application in climbing ������������������� Yoga for top climbers! ����������������������������������������������������������

385 387 394

407 410 418 428

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS �������������������������������������������� 434 BIBLIOGRAPHY ����������������������������������������������������������������� 436 INDEX OF ASANAS ��������������������������������������������������������� 438

7

INTRODUCTION TO THE SECOND EDITION More than ten years have passed since I started working at

is in connection with climbing and its spiritual nature, try-

the first pages of this book. Since then, many things have

ing to approach climbers without too many complications.

changed in my life, in my way of practicing Yoga and

For this reason, at that time I made a description of the

climbing, and experiencing deep connections day by day.

techniques of Asanas, Pranayama and an introduction to

In the same way, the general awareness has changed con-

meditation, contextualizing them in a brief but (I hope) ef-

siderably concerning Yoga, which has spread in society and

fective way for what concerns the philosophy of Yoga, with-

climbing, with different pros and cons. Even though ten

out discussing some more “advanced” topics, which would

years ago Yoga was already known in the climbing world,

have deserved more insight though.

also thanks to some famous “yogi” climbers, climbers who

Moreover, what I reported was the result of my experience,

knew and practiced it were still few.

at that time, as a climber, practitioner and just graduated

Especially in Italy, except for some mentions or short arti-

Yoga teacher, together with the little knowledge already

cles, there was almost no source discussing extensively the

available of Yoga for climbing. Since then, the situation has

connection between these two disciplines. Moreover, climb-

evolved considerably. Personally, besides the prosecution of

ers had not showed an explicit interest towards Yoga yet.

my never-ending path of improvement as a Yoga teacher, I

For these reasons, the publication of the first edition of Yo-

have started teaching it in different contexts and spots.

gascent has been a gamble, the result of which was not fore-

This allowed me to get in touch with hundreds of climbers,

seeable: many were surely prepared to accept the usefulness

both at the beginning of their Yoga experience or already

of Yoga in relation to climbing, but at the same time, the

practicing it. Teaching regularly and exchanging views with

community of climbers was also reluctant to consider a

them, gave me the opportunity to become more sensible in

more spiritual conception of climbing in relation to Yoga

evaluating their reactions to the practice, their needs and

and other holistic disciplines.

the different ways to perceive Yoga in relation to climbing.

This uncertainty played a key role in the writing of the first edition, simplified since the beginning to be as effective as

In parallel, personal practice and study of both disciplines

possible.

allowed me to constantly investigate the different sides of a

The objective was first of all to disseminate what is, in my

spiritual approach to climbing, exploring many aspects and

opinion, a fundamental aspect: the awareness of what Yoga

discovering new connections.

8

This has inevitably brought me to enrich my knowledge

This is why the more theoretical and holistic aspects have

and experience, going beyond what I had reported in the

been discussed more deeply in the present edition.

first edition. As a result, there was the need – personal first

On the other hand, the current spreading of Yoga often in-

of all – to revise some concepts from a new and deeper

volves a shallow approach to the practice, compromising

perspective, but also to meet the necessities of different

the spiritual component that is its essential foundation.

climbers in their approach to Yoga, that I did not fully un-

This entailed a considerable confusion: therefore, in this

derstand before.

second edition, I tried to explain the meaning of Yoga tech-

On the basis of this, I have started the hard work that led to

niques at a spiritual and holistic level, with the hope to pass

this second edition, where many parts have been extended,

the idea that being a Yoga practitioner is something differ-

some revised, while others are completely new.

ent from being a good gymnast. In fact, concerning Yoga

In addition to these aspects, the need to broaden the first

for climbing, the task of the teacher is even more difficult.

edition was even stronger due to the spreading of Yoga in

The path of Yoga in Asanas has an important and funda-

the climbing context. During the last ten years we have

mental starting point, that should not pass in second place.

witnessed a boom in the practice of Yoga and climbing, that

This is even more true if, thanks to Yoga, our objective is to

become very popular and fashionable, also through the in-

reach a new body awareness while we are climbing. How-

fluence of media. Some have approached Yoga moved by a

ever, to “start with the right foot”, it is necessary to contex-

real need to discover a deeper relation with themselves;

tualize the meaning of body and physical practice according

many others approached it moved by curiosity and by the

to Yoga. Here lies the great risk that climbers are facing.

media impact in both disciplines. This situation played a

We all know that climbers are a very determined category

role at two levels in the decision to revise the previous

of athletes, very disciplined and methodical in training, but

edition.

that often risk to transform passion into mental rigidity,

On the one hand, all the topics that I had left behind in that

obsession, unhealthy competitiveness and even “paranoia”.

edition, considering them a bit too “heavy” for a first intro-

It is clear that if Yoga is seen as a means for body perfor-

duction to this discipline, can now be dealt more easily

mance in the realization of extreme positions, then there is

thanks to the good disposition that climbers are showing to-

an increase of those aspects which are, in fact, contrary to

wards the practice of Yoga.

the yogic path.

9

It will be thus impossible not to notice (which I verified

Together we studied, discussed, examined and revised

personally in these years) how many climbers approach

many parts, and she even dealt personally with themes in

Yoga not to become more aware and have a different per-

her sphere of competence (such as, for example, practice

spective in climbing, but to bring in the Yoga practice com-

during pregnancy or after child birth, Mudras and others).

petition and performance, which are already excessive in

For these reasons she is co-author of this edition.

climbing.

Surely many topics still deserve to be discussed. Moreover,

Yoga – if well taught – can help climbers understand how

studies, practice and experience of the years to come will

climbing itself is an opportunity of inner growth, without

likely reveal further aspects of Yoga related to climbing.

giving up taking risks and facing limits.

In this respect, it would be a pleasure for us to receive the

Advanced Asanas, engaged sequences, challenging boul-

feedback of anyone who wants to bring his or her own

ders and multipitch routes, should become an essential tool

point of view and experience on the connection between

to take on new challenges, discover our limits, get out of

these two amazing disciplines, as well as suggestions to

the comfort zone, but experiencing them as means that

broaden this work in the future. The desire of sharing is

bring us in a meditative state, as tools of spiritual growth.

surely the main reason why we embarked, many years ago,

Here lies the hard task of a good teacher of Yoga for climb-

on this hard but exciting writing journey!

ing and one of the main reasons that led to the present ediGood reading and good practice to everybody!

tion of Yogascent.

Alberto Milani, January 2021 During the hard work of revision in which I engaged in this second edition, I have received the crucial help of my partner Cristine, who supported me in the writing with her contribution as a Yoga teacher, naturopath and “colleague” both in teaching and in personal practice.

10

Cristine Spiezia

Photo: Milani’s Collection 11

Alberto Milani

Photo: Davide Quadrio

0001 THE CONNECTION BETWEEN YOGA AND CLIMBING

THE CONNECTION BETWEEN YOGA AND CLIMBING

There are these special moments where everything seems

deep interest towards the inner approach, without exclud-

easy, when movements are fluid and solutions come

ing someone who practiced it only as a tool to increase

without thinking, when we are dancing almost

flexibility, breathing skills and concentration...

effortlessly on the wall. This is flowing following

These reactions both came from the idea that Yoga is not

your intuitions. This is Yoga.

simple physical training, but it is a discipline with a signifMartina Cufar

icant spiritual and meditative component. As such, either it was hated disdainfully (maybe due to fear) for its intro-

The fusion of Yoga and climbing is natural. Climbing, as

spective nature, or it involved deeply.

Yoga, shows you who you really are, allows you to

However, during the past five years, there has been a wide

find yourself. Both disciplines reveal your fears and

diffusion both in the practice of Yoga and climbing: media

show you how to overcome them. On the wall as

played a major role, in a world more and more influenced by

well as in life.

social media and the cult of shallowness and appearance.

Christian Core

This boom has introduced a certain simplification of their meanings in both disciplines.

That’s what’s so amazing about climbing – it’s not just a

Plenty of Yoga courses of many different kinds appeared

sport. It’s a lifestyle, it’s a way of being creative, of

everywhere, often led by teachers trained in intensive

connecting with yourself and with nature.

courses of one month, or even less.

Chris Sharma

Ideas have been even more messed up by social media, where “yogic rockstars” have spread: young people with an

INTRODUCTION

excellent physical preparation (often coming from previ-

In the previous edition, the first chapter started with the

ous sport activities) presenting themselves in extremely

following remarks:

complex positions, thus becoming points of reference.

«What is the reason to write a book connecting Yoga and

However, reading their posts is enough to realize that their

climbing? What do these two disciplines have in common,

knowledge of the discipline is definitely restricted, limiting

which might look quite different in terms of objectives and

themselves to the citation of a few aphorisms or pseu-

context? This might be the reaction of many people, may they

do-spiritual remarks of bewildering simplicity. The prob-

be climbers or Yoga practitioners, while reading this hand-

lem is that they often raise thousands of followers,

book, maybe with some hesitation. However, Yoga and climb-

strengthening even more the misunderstanding that Yoga

ing have more in common than we might believe, as long as we

is only an athletic exercise aiming at performance and that

go through them with the right spirit and with the right men-

physical preparation is enough to be a teacher.

tal and cultural attitude».

In a few years Yoga has passed from being considered as a Actually, when I started writing this book in 2010, Yoga

vague form of Eastern discipline mixing body exercise with

was not so popular as it is now and even less in the climbing

spiritual and meditative practices, to be seen mainly as a

context, where reactions were essentially two: repulsion or

form of advanced gymnastics aiming at performance.

14

YOGASCENT – ALBERTO MILANI AND CRISTINE SPIEZIA – THE CONNECTION BETWEEN YOGA AND CLIMBING

This final reductive conception, with the addition of that

All of this gives us well-being in addition to performance.

fake oriental halo that makes it so cool, easily attracted a

Therefore, if you are only interested in this “practical” ap-

growing mass of people, and many climbers are among

proach, you will find the technical explanations to achieve

them. Great part of the “vertical population” has (re)dis-

that here. However, even in that case, remember that be-

covered Yoga only as a complementary tool for climbing

tween Yoga and stretching or fitness there is a substantial

training: a positive aspect, but reductive. Another part of

difference: in the practice of Asanas the mind must remain

them, instead, approached Yoga with that anxious need for

present, concentrated and focused on the body, on what

performance and physical strength, that often characteriz-

we feel while we keep the position, on a calm and deep

es the attitude towards climbing.

breathing flux and on self-awareness.

Coming back to the starting point of this introduction, the remarks mentioned should not be revised now because the

Awareness. Presence in the “here and now”, to be in the

diffusion of Yoga has finally revealed its connection with

moment. Mind control together with body control. These

climbing, but because, now more than ever, it is funda-

aspects are fundamental in the practice of Yoga, even if on-

mental to remember what the meaning of this millennial

ly limited to training. Otherwise, if you are interested in

discipline is, without which it is impossible to understand

Yoga not only as a set of techniques, but as a spiritual path

the true and deep connection with climbing.

of inner exploration, then you will be able to experience it

Yoga is not stretching, it is not cult of the body, it is not

in its most true and complete nature. This is the starting

becoming more skilled in executing Asanas (positions): it is

point also to look at climbing from a different perspective,

first of all a path of self-awareness starting for sure from

discovering that it can also be practiced with a deeper

the body, but using it as a means to explore the deepest

awareness, so as to be considered a real form of Yoga! This

states of our consciousness. The body is only the starting

handbook thus is not intended only to give some sugges-

point and Asanas have the objective to bring it back to a

tions on “Yoga for climbing”, but it has the more challeng-

healthy state, purify it from toxins, improve the psy-

ing purpose to help consider “climbing as Yoga”.

cho-physical well-being and release the energetic channels

This is why, as a first step, we will analyse how, in fact,

to prepare them for the next steps.

climbing and spirituality have always been connected!

These prerequisites are important both to understand how to get closer to its practice and to its connection with

Living spiritually is living the moment. Yoga brings us in

climbing. Surely, not everybody can be interested in going

the present moment, making us aware of our

beyond Asanas, and this is even more true when Yoga tech-

posture, our movements and breathing.

niques are connected with climbing. If well executed, positions are useful to prevent injuries, increase flexibility,

Swami Vivekananda

as climbers. In the same way, Pranayama or meditation

SPIRITUALITY, YOGA AND CLIMBING: HISTORICAL BACKGROUND

techniques are perfect to work on breathing or on mental

A close relationship always existed between spirituality

and emotional aspects connected with climbing.

and the concept of mountain!

fluidity, balance, concentration, strength and thus improve

15

THE CONNECTION BETWEEN YOGA AND CLIMBING

The holiness of the mountain is a concept echoing in all

while ascending, makes a journey towards divine and

cultures and religions since the beginning of time, so as to

spiritual contemplation. Mountains have become a symbol

become an archetype itself of Holy.

of elevation, detachment from the material world and in-

The mystery of peaks, their surge to the sky, their inacces-

ner aspiration to eternity that is part of human nature.

sibility and the power of their phenomena (rockslides, avalanches, storms, etc.) has always recalled the idea of divine

Every major religion and every population in any part of

beings living there, which must be feared, venerated and

the world has its Sacred Mountain: Mount Olympus for the

respected.

Greeks, Mount Sinai or Calvary for Christians, Mount Qaf

The unspoilt mountains have become symbolic spots where

for the Islamic religion, Kailash for Hindus, Ayers Rocks

Eternity connects to the Earth and the ascent to the sum-

for the Aborigines, Mount Fuji in Japan, all the sacred

mit represents that metaphorical journey where man,

mountains of native Americans, etc.

Yoga, climbing and mountain: union, awareness, presence in the “here and now” 16

Photo: Paolo Buffa – www.paolo-buffa.com

YOGASCENT – ALBERTO MILANI AND CRISTINE SPIEZIA – THE CONNECTION BETWEEN YOGA AND CLIMBING

The idea of the Holy Mountain is a shared symbol in the

However, our subject is not about him, but another alpin-

history and culture of all humanity: the idea of elevation

ist, with whom Eckenstein made the first serious attempt

recalls deep archetypes in our inner self.

to conquer K2 in 1902, and who left us the first maps of

Since its beginning, despite the celebration of ego in man’s

Llanberis Pass’ blocks: Aleister Crowley. The name of

“fight with the Mountain”, alpinism has, in fact, presented

Crowley is probably already known to many, not for his

a deep mysticism and the description of spiritual experi-

mountaineering activity, but for his interest in the occult.

ences is not unusual at all in mountain literature.

Actually, he was a famous esoteric, magician, founder of

Certainly, alpinism is an extreme context where the rela-

several esoteric congregations, author of books evoking an

tionship with the power of Nature appears in all its wide-

“obscure” dimension of spirituality, so as to become fa-

ness and where man can realize his nothingness as well as

mous as one of the major Satanists.

his immense potential.

Along with this vocation, Crowley carried on a remarkable

However, this archetypical component of ascent through a

mountaineering career, which came to an end in 1905 after

steep wall exists also in sport climbing, even though objec-

the failing expedition to Kangchenjunga.

tive risks are dramatically reduced, the environment is

Surely, this first example is not really positive concerning

tamed and human-sized by now: climbing touches many

the approach to spirituality, and it is a case where climbing

deep strings in us, anchored in our more instinctive self,

and alpinism take second place.

that cannot be easily held by rationality.

However, it is still a historically interesting example where we find a first connection between these two dimensions,

Let’s just think about the fear of falling that everyone had to

including Yoga. Actually, in the notorious book Magick,

overcome: rationality would tell us that there is nothing to

Crowley describes the meditative states that can be experi-

fear (rope, quickdraws and bolts are safe etc.), nevertheless

enced thanks to the practice of Raja Yoga and there are sev-

there is a reaction in us that is deeper, “animal” and irra-

eral mentions of Yoga.

tional, a manifestation of our inner instinct of survival.

The same thing happens with the archetype of the ascent:

In more recent times, a remarkable example of spiritual ex-

whether we admit it or not, climbing activates in us an im-

periences in climbing brings us back to 1969, when the fa-

pulse of inner elevation, and maybe the materialistic ap-

mous American magazine Ascent published The climber as

proach of many climbers is an unconscious reaction to deny

visionary by Doug Robinson.

this inner elevation, that not everybody is ready to accept.

In that revolutionary article, starting from the artistic conception of climbing already mentioned by George Mallory,

Having said that, we will now present, from a more histor-

Robinson goes beyond, analysing the visionary experiences

ical perspective, some examples of the close relationship

one can have while climbing.

between spiritual disciplines and climbing.

He describes how our perception varies, how concentra-

Between the XIX and the XX century, in Wales, lives a great

tion and relaxation experimented during an ascent prepare

climber and alpinist, probably the first to practice boulder-

us inside for this vision when we feel “we are suffused with

ing: Oscar Eckenstein.

oceanic feelings of clarity, distance, union, oneness”.

17

ASANAS AND YOGA SEQUENCES: THEORY AND PRACTICE

When we identify tensions, it is important to stop and relax

Moreover, they encourage relaxation and improve the flow

before taking the movement to the upper parts.

of vital energy, promoting its moving upward towards the heart and the brain, increasing our awareness.

If we keep the spine extended and move slowly, the areas

For these reasons they are often executed during the final

of most resistance will soften gradually, intensifying the

phases of the practice to rebalance the spine and prepare

position and also relaxing possible chronic tensions. In

the body and mind to the practice of Pranayama and/or

many twists there is the temptation to force, but this must

meditation.

be avoided in order not to go beyond our limits and to avoid injuries. Often, hip tensions tend to pull the hip up towards the shoulder, or to pull the shoulder down to the hip during the execution of Asanas, bringing the twist where it is easier.

This entails a more intense lateral bend into the spine, which, if combined with the twist, can partially compress vertebral discs and stop the energy flow. Therefore, it is necessary to balance this tendency pushing the hip away from the corresponding shoulder and, if necessary, slightly relaxing the twist to realign the spine.

In addition to neck and spine, it is recommended to also warm up pelvis and shoulders.

During the execution, breathe consciously during each twist, extend the spine as much as possible on the inhale and intensify the twist of the chest on the exhale.

Twists present several benefits: they open chest, hips, shoulders and neck; reduce discomfort and tiredness in the spine, relaxing tensions and rebalancing back muscles; massage intervertebral discs and align the spine; reduce the accumulation of calcium in the spine.

They also bring further benefits: they improve digestion, peristalsis and elimination; extend and tone the diaphragm; expand lungs improving breathing.

At a mental level they calm negative emotions and restlessness that often contribute to back problems.

56

YOGASCENT – ALBERTO MILANI AND CRISTINE SPIEZIA – ASANAS AND YOGA SEQUENCES: THEORY AND PRACTICE

The practice of Yoga helps a lazy body to become active and vibrating. It transforms the mind, making it more harmonious. Yoga helps to maintain body and mind in harmony with the essence, the soul, so that the three are merged in one.

B. K. S. Iyengar

Ardha Matsyendrasana, one of Yoga’s main torsions

Alberto Milani

Photo: Marta Cavallari 57

ASANAS FOR THE TRUNK 01. ADHO MUKHA SVANASANA DOWNWARD DOG POSE

Introduction Adho Mukha Svanasana is a fundamental Asana and one of the most important in the Yoga practice, amazing in combination with climbing and present in every style. It is a pose of the Surya Namaskara and a pose of transition almost “mandatory” in the execution of many Vinyasa sequences.

In Sanskrit Adho means “downward”, Mukha means “face” or “muzzle” and Svana means “dog”, from which the name of the pose. The position of the arms allows to open shoulders and chest, preventing kyphosis caused by climbing and stretching neck and back muscles. Chest and arms are toned, while calves are stretched and ankle joints become more flexible and healthier.

Apart from the merely physical benefits, since it is a slightly inverted position, it stimulates concentration and mental presence. It is a suitable position either for warm-up, active recovery and rebalancing after training, but it must be avoided in case of carpal tunnel syndrome.

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Execution 1. Move down on your mat and come on your hands and knees in tabletop pose. Plant your palms down on the mat spreading your fingers wide, your arms right under the shoulders, toes touching the ground; 2. On the exhale rise your knees from the ground, stretching arms and legs; 3. Take your body to form a triangular position, with the top formed by the hip bones, the legs extended and your back aligned with the arms; 4. Place your feet as wide as your hips and press your heels down as much as possible to touch the ground, with extended legs. Open the shoulders to form a perfect line, straightening the arms and dropping the head between them, without leaving it waging and sending your gaze towards the belly. The chin is thus placed between breastbone and collarbone to form a lock called Jalandhara Bandha. As an alternative, it is also possible to keep the head in a neutral position; 5. Hold the position for 5/10 deep and regular breaths, feeling the effects on body and mind; 6. To release the position, inhale and on the exhale come back to the centre; 7. Repeat twice. After the second execution, sit back on your heels and, without lifting the hip bones from them, lie down with the forehead touching the mat and the arms resting on your side, and remain in this position of relaxation for some breaths (Balasana).

Benefits It opens shoulders and chest; stretches calf, foot and hand muscles and knee tendons; strengthens both lower and upper limbs; helps digestion and reduces headache and menstrual pains.

It is helpful for tiredness, back pains and for problems of blood pressure, asthma, sciatica and flat feet. It relaxes the mind reducing stress and mild depressions.

Moreover, it energizes the whole body.

Specific benefits for It prevents kyphosis tendencies; reduces stiffness of neck or back muscles; tones up and helps the climbing active recovery of arms, shoulders and chest; extends and makes flexible ankle tendons.

Precautions and Do not execute at an advanced stage of pregnancy or in case of carpal tunnel syndrome. In case of warnings migraine or headache rest your head on a pillow or another support. If you cannot execute it completely, keep your legs slightly bent, focusing on opening the chest, feeling the pressure of the hands on the mat and pressing the heels to the ground, always avoid excessive efforts. Contrary to what is sometimes showed, you should avoid to stretch shoulder joints too much.

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ASANAS FOR THE TRUNK 02. ARDHA CHANDRASANA HALF MOON POSE

Introduction In the different traditions there are several positions called “half moon pose”, even though this name refers more commonly to the position called Tola Trikonasana in this book.

In Sanskrit: Ardha means “half”, “mid”, while Chandra is the Moon, from which it draws the name. The version presented here is a simple position helping us to extend all the body side and to keep shoulders open. Moreover, this Asana make us perceive the shifting of the body weight on the feet, executing it on both one sides, becoming thus aware of the flowing of our balance.

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YOGASCENT – ALBERTO MILANI AND CRISTINE SPIEZIA – ASANAS AND YOGA SEQUENCES: THEORY AND PRACTICE

Execution 1. Stand up in Tadasana;

2. On the inhale lift on your toes, circling your arms up overhead. Squeezing the shoulder blades towards each other and opening the shoulders, send the palms of your hands forward interlacing your fingers and stretch all your spine. Focus on the balance into your toes; 3. On the exhale bend to your right side pressing the heels down to the ground, stretching all the left part of the body from the hip to the neck and paying attention that the bend is only lateral, as if the body was blocked between two slabs, without twists or soft flexions forth or back.

Shoulders must remain relaxed and away from the ears, but both arms and legs are active and well straightened. In this position the body forms a lateral arch like a halfmoon; 4. Hold the pose for 5/10 breaths with the spine extended and the chest open, keeping the extension for all the duration of the Asana; 5. On the inhale, take your arms up again standing on your toes, then on the exhale repeat the Asana on the other side; 6. Once it has been executed, come back in Tadasana for a few breaths, and listen to the effects of the position and the inner sensations that it generated.

Benefits It opens shoulders, chest and rib cage, improving and expanding the breath; stretches the spine, opening it sideways; promotes an effective general energy recharge; promotes awareness of the spine and the flow of energy in it; helps to become aware of the balance in the feet.

Specific benefits for It helps to open shoulders and chest and to close shoulder blades, preventing kyphosis and climbing avoiding thus the troubles linked to it; tones up and activates shoulders, arms and ankles, also in preparation for the next climb; makes us more aware of the shifts of balance in our feet.

Precautions and In case of hyperlordosis problems or excessive tension during the execution with lifted hands, warnings bend the elbows or separate the hands keeping the arms parallel or even keep the hands joined at the heart centre. During pregnancy scoop the pelvis forward and move the belly inward to protect the lower region.

In case of heart problems keep the hands to the heart centre.

Do not execute or pay particular attention in case of spinal injuries, herniated disc, hip prosthesis or pelvis problems.

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ASANAS FOR BALANCE AND STANDING 08. VIRABHADRASANA III WARRIOR POSE III

Introduction In the third position of the Warrior, strength, rooting and focusing on the objective find a perfect synthesis introducing the balance on one hand, combined with the search of arm, trunk and leg alignment.

This position is similar to Ganapatiasana, the position of Ganesha (also called Ganapati, from which the name of the Asana), Indian god in form of an elephant, a strong and heavy animal, but kind at the same time. This image still recalls in us the sensation of strength and stability.

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08A. GANAPATIASANA

POSE OF GANESHA/GANAPATI

Introduction It is very similar to Virabhadrasana III, but the arms are here sent behind the back at the level of the lumbar region, with both hands grabbing the opposite forearm or at the base of the neck, opening the chest.

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ASANAS FOR BALANCE AND STANDING 08. VIRABHADRASANA III WARRIOR POSE III

08A. GANAPATIASANA

POSE OF GANESHA/GANAPATI

Execution 1. Stand up with your arms along your sides and your feet close together (Tadasana);

2. Shift the balance to the left foot and place your hands on your hips, on the inhale extend the spine upward; 3. On the exhale, bend forward rising the right leg well extended and aligned with the upper body, to take them parallel to the ground to form a single line; 4. On the inhale, extend also the arms forward, aligned with the upper body, keeping them parallel or joining the palms. As an alternative, arms can be already extended to the ceiling when we are in Tadasana, before going down on the exhale; 5. Hold the position for 5/10 breaths, deeply breathing and feeling strength, rooting and contact to the ground; 6. On the inhale, come back up with the upper body and the leg facing downward to touch the ground with both your feet and on the exhale release the position of the arms to come back in upright position; 7. Repeat on the other side.

Benefits It improves balance, strengthens and tones up legs and trunk; opens shoulders and chest; helps to increase focusing and learning skills; reduces flow during menstruation period.

As all the warrior positions, it improves rooting to the ground, steadiness in facing challenges, consolidating determination, willpower and inner centredness.

Specific benefits for It improves balance during efforts and fortifies legs and arms; opens the shoulders; helps to keep climbing concentration and attention. It gives determination, inner strength and enthusiasm in facing those challenges that bring us to our limits.

Precautions and Do not execute or else pay attention in case of high blood pressure. In case of problems to the warnings neck, keep it extended directing your gaze straight in front of you, without turning your head towards your hands.

Pay attention to ankles.

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Virabhadrasana on the rock!

Climber: Alberto Milani

Photo: Milani’s Collection 155

ASANAS AND YOGA SEQUENCES: THEORY AND PRACTICE

In Yoga, in climbing, in life, we experience a constant flow

These sequences aim to be a guideline for the practice of

of physical and mental changes: enthusiasm, effort, fear,

Asanas and Vinyasa: the infinite possibilities in the use of

frustration, lightness, stiffness, flexibility, tiredness,

the body and the exploration of its limits are therefore an

strength, doubt, determination... Changes might be even

encouragement to execute Asanas at will and without pre-

more frequent in climbing for the countless situations that

defined schemes, flowing and “feeling” our sequences in

we experience.

the best way to achieve our personal state of flow.

Only pay attention to keep the body balanced, trying to

Vinyasa means to live this change to achieve a state of pres-

work in a complete way, not only introducing Asanas/Vin-

ence, dynamic meditation, which is often realized without

yasas working on those parts in which we are more inter-

our full awareness. For this reason, many climbers often

ested or which we “like” the most, but also focusing on our

find more affinity with dynamic styles based on Vinyasa. If

weak points, which we do not like...

you are aware of what it represents, the practice can be-

One of the objectives of the practice is actually rebalancing

come a powerful means to combine Yoga and climbing!

and harmonizing the whole body at a physical and energet-

However, it is a double-edged sword: if you approach Yoga

ic level, opening the Nadis to encourage the flow of the

with the competitive attitude often characterizing climb-

Prana. In order to achieve that, we need non-violence, ac-

ing, it won’t be a means to build self-awareness anymore.

ceptance, absence of expectations towards the material result, passion, introspection...

On the basis of this, in this section we will present different Vinyasa sequences for climbers, many of which are surely

Finally, we notice that to increase the effects of the syn-

suitable for complementary training.

chronization between movement and breathing and to ex-

However, the objective remains to link Asanas with the

pand the focusing considerably, it is fundamental to use

breathing rhythm, also exploring our physical and mental

Ujjayi Pranayama, described in chapter 3. This kind of

limits, to be able to turn climbing itself in a harmonic flow,

breathing is essential for the execution of dynamic se-

a dance of body and mind.

quences, both to become more aware of the flow and to

To become familiar with this connection between mind,

deepen body and mind rooting in the “here and now”.

breathing and movement, and then discover it on the rock, first of all we will explore the most important sequence of

Each Asana is a pearl, but a handful of pearls is not a

Yoga, Surya Namaskara, the well-known Salute to the Sun,

necklace yet! The thread which goes through,

in some of its versions.

combines and arranges the Asanas is the controlled

Afterwards, we will present other sequences to work on

breath of soul and consciousness.

some specific parts of the body or skills (balance, strength, core stability, mobility, etc.), which might be included in a routine training.

Finally, we will also suggest some practices to be executed before and after climbing.

230

André Van Lysebeth

Photo: Milani’s Collection 231

VINYASA. YOGA SEQUENCES FOR CLIMBING 01. SURYA NAMASKARA THE SALUTE TO THE SUN

This is probably the most known Vinyasa sequence, characterized by a series of Asanas combined with the rhythm of Ujjayi Pranayama. All the movements are realized through forward and backward bends of the spine and stretching spine and limbs.

This alternate flexion brings several benefits to the body, tones up abdominal organs, improves digestion and elimination, strengthens the muscles of all the body, makes the spine elastic and flexible, improves breathing and it is considered one of the quickest ways to get body flexibility and a light, spontaneous and peaceful mind. Ayurvedic medicine, the traditional Indian medicine, considers the Salute to the Sun particularly important, recommended for any type of constitution.

It is not important how far you take the movement of the Asana, but what is fundamental is the harmonious connection between the breathing phase and the associated pose, essential aspect of any Vinyasa.

The Salute to the Sun should be the base of any everyday practice, executing some series especially in the morning, whatever the routine of other Asanas or other personal yogic practices. Moreover, it is a perfect sequence also for warming up, for an Asana session and for climbing. In the same way, it is very useful at the end of a climbing day or after training to relax tensions in the spine, toning limb muscles and rebalancing posture.

This practice is a good way for beginners to set an everyday routine: especially at the beginning, it is fundamental to create that “groove of habit” which makes the practice an essential part of life (like the need to train for climbing). In this phase it is useless to start a long and extended practice that we do for some days and then give up. It is better to start with less, and the Salute to the Sun is perfect for this! Devoting just fifteen minutes a day to some series of Surya Namaskara, we can gradually create this habit, which will grow over time.

There are many versions of Surya Namaskara and we will present here the most popular, starting from the “classic” one, often called Rishikesh. In addition, we will introduce the variants A and B executed in Ashtanga Vinyasa Yoga, which are suitable exercises for climbing, also at a physical level.

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SURYA NAMASKARA - Rishikesh 1

Pranamasana.

5

Exhale.

Adho Mukha Svanasana.

9

Inhale.

Ashwa Sanchalanasana.

Right foot to the front. Backward bend of the spine.

2

Inhale.

Hasta Uttanasana.

Stretch the body upward and backward.

6

3

4

Exhale.

Uttanasana.

Inhale. Ashwa Sanchalanasana.

Right foot towards the back. Backward bend of the spine.

7

8

Breath hold with empty lungs.

Ashtanga Namaskara. Send the knees to the ground and, coming down with the body between the arms, place the chest and the chin on the ground, keeping the glutes lifted and the elbows closed.

Inhale.

Bhujangasana.

Exhale.

Adho Mukha Svanasana.

10

11

12

Exhale.

Uttanasana.

Inhale.

Hasta Uttanasana.

Stretch the body upward and backward.

Exhale.

Pranamasana.

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SEQUENCES FOR ABDOMINALS AND CORE S1. SEQUENCE FOR HIP FLEXIBILITY (Time of execution = 25/30 mins) 1. Surya Namaskara Rishikesh

Execute 2 times paying attention to the correct combination of breathing/Asana.

Pause in Tadasana for some breaths.

p.232

2. Surya Namaskara Ashtanga B

Execute 3 times paying attention to the correct combination of breathing/Asana.

Pause in Tadasana for some breaths.

p.236

3. Vrksasana (leg in the Half Lotus)

Hold for 5 breaths on both sides. Starting from Vrksasana (with the leg in the Half Lotus), bend forward to place the hands on the mat. Hold for 5 breaths on both sides.

p.136

4. Virabhadrasana I

Hold for 5 breaths on both sides.

p.148

5. Parsvakonasana

Hold for 5 breaths on both sides. Starting from Parsvakonasana, take out the bent leg p.122 placed forward and, coming on the toe of the leg on the back, come with the arms to the ground holding the leg position. Execute for 5 breaths on both sides.

6. Eka Pada Rajakapotasana

Hold for 5 breaths and execute on both sides.

p.160

7. Ardha Matsyendrasana

Hold for 10 breaths and execute on both sides.

p.62

8. Muktasana

Hold for 10 breaths and execute on both sides.

p.164

9. Janu Sirsasana

Hold for 5 breaths and execute on both sides.

p.76

10. Baddha Konasana

Hold for at least 1 minute, waving the knees up and down at the end to stimulate hip opening and pressing with caution on them.

p.158

11. Supta Baddha Konasana

Hold for 10 breaths.

p.158

12. Siddhasana/ Padmasana

3 series of Nadi Shodhanam Pranayama (see chapter 3).

p.216/ p.218

262

Photo: Eleonora Marra 263

SEQUENCES FOR ABDOMINALS AND CORE S2. EXTENDED SEQUENCE FOR LOWER LIMBS (Time of execution = 1 hour) 1. Surya Namaskara Rishikesh

Execute 3 times paying attention to the correct combination of breathing/Asana.

Pause in Tadasana for some breaths.

p.232

2. Surya Namaskara Ashtanga A

Execute 3 times paying attention to the correct combination of breathing/Asana.

Pause in Tadasana for some breaths.

p.234

3. Surya Namaskara Ashtanga B

Execute 3 times paying attention to the correct combination of breathing/Asana.

p.236

4. Tadasana

Hold for 5 breaths.

p.224

5. Uttanasana/ Padangusthasana/ Padahastasana

Hold for 10 breaths.

p.118/ p. 119

6. Utthita Hasta Padangusthasana

Hold for 5 breaths.

p.146

7. Trikonasana

Hold for 5 breaths and execute on both sides.

p.110

8. Parivrtta Trikonasana

Hold for 5 breaths and execute on both sides.

p.112

9. Tadasana

Hold for 5 breaths.

p.224

10. Parsvakonasana

Hold for 5 breaths and execute on both sides.

p.122

11. Parsvottanasana

Hold for 5 breaths and execute on both sides.

p.92

12. Prasarita Padottanasana

Hold for 10 breaths.

p.94

13. Virabhadrasana I

Hold for 5 breaths and execute on both sides.

p.148

14. Adho Mukha Svanasana

Hold for 5 breaths.

p.58

15. Tadasana

Hold for 5 breaths.

p.224

16. Utkatasana

Hold for 5 breaths.

p.172

17. Pavanamuktasana

Hold for 5 breaths.

p.168

18. Dandasana

Hold for 5 breaths.

p.220

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19. Paschimottanasana

Hold for 5 breaths.

p.90

20. Purvottanasana

Hold for 5 breaths.

p.98

21. Navasana

Execute 3 times for 5 breaths each.

p.88

22. Dandasana

Hold for 5 breaths.

p.220

23. Janu Sirsasana

Hold for 5 breaths and execute on both sides.

p.76

24. Baddha Konasana

Hold for 10 breaths.

p.158

25. Supta Baddha Konasana

Hold for 5 breaths.

p.158

26. Upavistha Konasana

Hold for 5 breaths.

p.114

27. Ardha Matsyendrasana

Hold for 10 breaths and execute on both sides.

p.62

28. Muktasana

Hold for 10 breaths and execute on both sides.

p.164

29. Eka Pada Rajakapotasana

Hold for 5 breaths and execute on both sides.

p.160

30. Supta Vajrasana

Hold for 5 breaths.

p.106

31. Vajrasana/ Siddhasana/ Padmasana

10 minutes Pranayama/Meditation (see chapters 3 and 4).

p.226/ p.216/ p.218

32. Savasana

Hold at least 5 minutes.

p.222

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MEDITATION IN AND FOR CLIMBING

MEDITATION IN CLIMBING

itself might turn into a meditation, so precisely in this per-

The connection between meditation and climbing is double

spective the two disciplines show their similarities.

and deeper than what we might think.

We have thus the possibility to consider “meditation for

On the one hand, since Asanas are an effective method to

climbing” on the one hand, and “climbing as a meditation”

work at a physical level, to improve well-being and climb-

on the other, experiencing climbing as a form of Yoga.

ing abilities, meditation techniques offer a powerful tool to

Let’s start from the first approach, where meditation is used

work on the mind, to develop positive thoughts and emo-

as a supporting technique for climbing.

tions or to reduce tensions and fears. On the other hand, as

The awareness of the “mental” aspect of climbing is not

we have already emphasized, in certain conditions climbing

something new: we often hear that fears (of falling, failing,

In climbing we often experience situations awakening our inner fears: meditation techniques allow us to work on the mind to get rid of them or strengthen our determination Climber: Alberto Milani Photo: Andrea Alongi 334

YOGASCENT – ALBERTO MILANI AND CRISTINE SPIEZIA – MEDITATION IN AND FOR CLIMBING

or even the anxiety that we might feel when we are about

Briefly, many researches have shown that our psychic state

to send a route!) are among the main causes of failing an

can neurologically activate the brain, which in its turn ac-

ascent. Obstacles that we face are more likely due to men-

tivates the endocrine system, which finally stimulates the

tal aspects rather than physical aspects.

immune system through its hormonal secretions.

Becoming aware of our mind, thoughts, emotions, anxie-

Due to these connections between systems, a “negative”

ties, expectations or tensions allows us to understand their

emotional state (anxiety, fear, stress...) causes the produc-

source and therefore to start eliminating them.

tion of cortisol, adrenaline, etc. which, if protracted, dam-

In this context, meditation is a powerful tool, a natural

ages the immune system, with all the consequences on our

prosecution of the mental work carried out with Pranay-

health. On the contrary, positive emotional states (joy, en-

ama: through meditation we learn to turn off the “mental

thusiasm, happiness...) stimulate the production of endor-

buzz”, setting the mind on our objective with calm and in-

phins, useful to generate psychophysical well-being. In this

ner stability.

regard, meditation shows its importance in a wider and ho-

We can thus merge body, mind and spirit in our flowing on

listic context, beyond Yoga and climbing. It is not by chance

the rock, completely present in the “here and now” while

if the meditative techniques (in addition to breathing tech-

climbing: we enter the best flow that we can achieve in our

niques) are applied more and more frequently to treat dif-

flowing on the rock, being positive and happy! In this case

ferent psychological and psychiatric diseases, such as

also, the effects of the meditation are not a psychological

anxiety, addictions, depression, compulsive disorders etc.

illusion, but are connected with real physiological mecha-

Coming back to the use of meditation in climbing, through

nisms: it is scientifically proved that meditation can stimu-

everyday practice we can train the mind to remain positive,

late the activity of the left part of the frontal region of the

free of fears and therefore ready to focus inwardly on the

brain, which is activated in case of positive emotional

present moment, with clear benefits for our performance.

states, like joy and happiness.

Obviously, this does not mean that meditation is not essen-

At the level of the brain, meditation can be physiologically

tial also for those who have already overcome anxieties and

associated to the stimulation of positive emotional states or

tensions: actually, it is a great input to induce deep aware-

elimination of anxieties. This effect is actually linked to the

ness, concentration and mental presence, as important as

production of endorphins coming from the neurological

physical/technical skills. Meditation brings clarity and men-

activation of this region of the brain. Here also we can in-

tal focusing, both essential in climbing where it is necessary

vert the direction of the connection body-mind, recalling

to be precise, confident, centred in the present moment and

those positive emotional states which put the body in the

where hesitation can be the main cause of failure.

best physiological conditions for action.

Remaining in the context of “meditation for climbing”, an essential part of the available techniques is represented by

These inner connections between different systems and or-

“visualizations”. Whit this term we refer to the vivid men-

gans are not popular beliefs but the object of scientific

tal recalling of actions, images, sensations, emotional states

studies (see the section body-mind connection in the

etc. which might help us to mentally “stimulate” a situation

Appendix).

or an event, with a positive attitude of course.

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MEDITATION IN AND FOR CLIMBING

In doing so, we recall a positive and determined attitude in

Moreover, we can simulate the ascent of a route or a boul-

ourselves, confident in success, thus increasing focusing.

der in our mind, imagining ourselves climbing it, facing the

Visualization is one of the main keys of the so-called Men-

passages hold after hold, feeling the stimulation of the

tal Training, described in the Appendix.

senses that the rock is giving us and the sensations that

There is a great variety of available visualizations, suitable

climbing creates in us, thus training the mind to solve

to reach different goals.

those passages as if we had actually climbed them!

A first interesting example is the “ideomotor training”,

We revise the passage within ourselves and we train our

which might help us to gain a deep body awareness, focus-

mind to success, positivity and determination in facing

ing on the single parts to strengthen them. Thanks to the

challenges. Not by chance, Adam Ondra makes extensive

visualization of a training exercise, mentally simulated, re-

use of it. For example, he used it as main tool to prepare for

calling all the physical sensations, we can actually activate

the flash ascent of Super Crackinette (9a+).

the body and train it, due to the activation of some neuro-

Similar examples of athletes engaged in the visualization of

muscular mechanisms.

their performance are common in many sports.

Fear of falling, performance anxiety, fear of mistaking or succeeding, nervous tensions adding to physical tension: meditation helps us finding awareness, concentration and mental clarity, allowing us to be precise, confident and controlled… And to achieve our objectives Climber: Alberto Milani Photo: Gillo Bottini 336

YOGASCENT – ALBERTO MILANI AND CRISTINE SPIEZIA – MEDITATION IN AND FOR CLIMBING

We will list below several visualization techniques, to reg-

had already experienced: this is what we call “climb as a

ulate the mind and focus it on the objective without dis-

meditation” or “meditation in climbing”!

tractions or doubts.

Unfortunately, these meditative experiences rarely happen

Getting now to the most important point, we find the syn-

and we often feel them as if they were a condition coming

thesis of the spiritual connection between Yoga and climb-

suddenly from the outside, without having searched for it

ing, analysing how the latter can be experienced as a

voluntarily. In Yoga they actually say that meditation is not

meditation in movement, thus turning into a yogic disci-

reached nor found, it comes spontaneously at the right

pline! We have mentioned as in climbing it is possible to

moment.

experience states like Pratyahara and Dharana, since, while climbing, the mind becomes strongly focused on body

In climbing, it often happens to enter this state even when

awareness and its interaction with the rock.

we do not feel fit or when the mind is troubled.

This is an inevitable passage as, no matter the level of our

Maybe, the absence of expectations and performance anxi-

attention before starting, as soon as we touch the rock, the

ety, the need to just climb to feel good and find ourselves,

mind empties and it is obliged to listen to the body, in

have opened the channels allowing us to experience those

search of a dynamic balance with the rock.

amazing moments: this is climbing as meditation, namely

While running or swimming or practicing other sports, the

the spiritual essence of this discipline, whose similarities

mind can be busy with other thoughts, in climbing it must

with Yoga should be perfectly evident.

focus on the present moment, even when we are not at our limit, automatically entering a yogic state of mind.

Of course, then everyone is free to experience climbing as

Although this process always occurs, it is possible, in cer-

they prefer, also as just a sport to gain physical strength

tain situations, to reach an even deeper mental and spiritual

and climb harder routes. There is nothing wrong.

state. Try to recall all the routes/boulders which were at

However, when climbing is considered in a yogic perspec-

your limit, where you engaged at your best.

tive, there is the possibility to experience it so deeply to

Recall the moment when you finally sent it.

push us to improve as individuals and become aware of those spiritual sides characterizing our being.

Maybe, in some of those circumstances, you experienced

Thanks to this, we can start a path where climbing will

one of those situations when, all of a sudden, before, dur-

never stop to be an opportunity of growth, and maybe we

ing and after the climb, your mind entered a state of great

will have a clearer idea of the reason why we love it so

calm, clarity and union with everything surrounding you.

much.

You started to climb, you didn’t make any mistake, movements were precise, less rough than usual and you entered

I hope the suggestions of this book will lead you to this

a state of consciousness almost detached from the sur-

direction!

rounding world. With great fluidity, you found yourselves at the top, without even feeling the need to rejoice, but rather feeling a sense of calm and acceptance for what you

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YAMA AND NIYAMA IN CLIMBING

This is certainly one of the most important conditions for this “sport” to become a real form of Yoga.

Yoga is possible for anyone who is really willing. Yoga is universal... But do not approach Yoga with a business attitude or in search of material gains.

Sri Pattabhi Jois

NIYAMA AND CLIMBING As we have said in the introduction, the second step is represented by Niyama and gives positive suggestions for our life and habits from a yogic perspective, adopting healthy habits for our body and consequently for our mind and emotions. In this case also, they are not rules to be followed mindlessly but an approach to life which must become spontaneous and that can be applied to climbing.

1. Saucha: cleaning, purity. This first Niyama should not

be intended only in terms of external body cleaning, but most of all as cleanliness and purity of intentions and thoughts. The extension in climbing has different meanings, both personal and connected with our approach towards the environment and people around us.

From a more individual perspective, the concept of purity might be intended as the inner attitude with which we climb: to be aware, harmonious and pure in our decisions and thus in our movements, to keep the mind clean in intentions, completely focused on the present moment and to foster that mental clarity which is essential to maintain centredness during an ascent.

From a social perspective, “cleanliness” means to leave the route/boulder at its most natural state, to clean the holds, eliminating the excessive traces of chalk or the signs that we (or others) have left.

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YOGASCENT – ALBERTO MILANI AND CRISTINE SPIEZIA – YAMA AND NIYAMA IN CLIMBING

Climbing in an ocean of rock has existed for thousands of years… A thought to experience climbing with humility, joy and most of all Aparigraha, non-attachment Climber: Enrico Baistrocchi Photo: Massimo Malpezzi 377

This handbook aims at presenting the connections existing between Yoga and climbing, exploring not only the awareness of body, breath and psychological dynamics, but also contextualizing them in the spiritual path of this millennial discipline. The objective is to show how Yoga techniques can be turned to climbing at a physical and mental level, and to demonstrate that climbing, if experienced with the right attitude, can become itself a form of Yoga.

After an introduction where the bases of Yoga are presented and its connection with climbing is synthetized, the book reserves a substantial part to the description of the most important Yoga positions (Asanas) and several sequences conceived for climbers, explaining in depth their benefit in climbing. Next, different breathing techniques are described (Pranayama) that can be applied to climbing, then the fundamentals of meditation are analysed, as well as how climbing can become a form of meditation in movement. A chapter follows concerning Yoga relaxation techniques and an explanation of how Yoga’s ethical and moral codes (Yama and Niyama) can find an application in the present climbing world. Finally, further investigation takes place in a wide Appendix.

This handbook turns to those who search in Yoga a complementary training to improve as climbers, as well as those who are interested in reaching the heart of Yoga and having a deeper vision of their vertical passion. The second edition is a considerable revision and widening of the previous one, in which those who appreciated the first version can find many other techniques and new ideas.

39,00 € VAT included

ISBN: 978 88 55471 237

www.versantesud.it