Chopova Lowena

I wanted to identify an emerging designer who was redefining punk and transcending the cultural movement through a contemporary taste to a younger generation, like Charles Jeffrey. I feel this would support me massively in observing what designers are already toying with today if I was to take this notion forward. Within my research scope, I discovered Chopova Lowena- an English-Bulgarian label established by visionary designers Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena.

Chopova Lowena juxtaposes Bulgarian folklore and 1980’s rock climbing with additional punk insouciance to explore an anthropological approach to design. Their punk connotations are somewhat softer in comparison to the 1970’s way of dressing, it engages a playfulness and youthful enthusiasm in an array of colours and fantastical appeal. I admire the eclectic and unique taste of Chopova Lowena. They are breaking conventions through unusual formats of working, taking subcultures and refreshing them whilst integrating their own personal flair. In an interview with the New York Times newspaper, the duo reveal how they source inspiration from obscure Facebook groups which collect images of traditional dress and niche sports like wrestling and skydiving- utilising their findings to blend them both whilst supplementing their own spin. What disconnects the brand even further from the likes of Charles Jeffrey, is their passion for sustainability and ethical manufacturing. The extensive layering of their garments is handmade from recycled materials and deadstock fabrics by a community of artisans in Bulgaria. I think it is important for me to take influence from Chopova Lowena as they are creating a platform for originality through made to measure designs, where one garment will never look the same as the other, whilst implicating sustainable practices and a voice for the youth to be individual through an amalgamation of folkloric craftsmanship and subculture references.

Chopova Lowena pride themselves on brand identity, thus the reasoning as to why they initially disregarded runway viewings and focused on becoming a name without the need for a show- in my opinion, this is a great strategy of tactical marketing as it builds up anticipation for when they later open their collections up to the viewer eye. The S/S23 collection was their first appearance on the catwalk. It was compelling to observe how they put their youthful interpretation and heavy metal whimsicality within a performance as well as clothing. This runway epitomised the brands’ identity to a T- fusing an array of elements from heritage, modernity, punk chaos, and festival. I maintained my focus more on the punk connotations to the collection since this is an avenue, I am interested in taking forward towards my finalised concept. Models entered the space, stomping to punk music, fashioning tartan skirts, oversized safety pins and cartoon graphics- accentuating a heavy naivety, playfulness, and rendition to the subculture. As stipulated by MatchesFashion “balance, unexpected unity and authenticity are design values that ground their theatrical appeal” (MatchesFashion, n.d). I feel Chopova Lowena fully immersed their brand identity and values within this collection, channelling androgynous design, energy and anarchy with a sports appeal and Bulgarian tradition.

I shared a great fondness for the graffiti features and visual graphics manipulated onto the designs of their products, it resonated a lot with the work of Charles Jeffrey too, enhancing a youthful element to punk- it’d be interesting to take inspiration from this and replicate a similar aspect within my own test shoots.

How can emerging brands like Chopova Lowena be pushed further into the industry to enhance recognition, credibility, and a larger target market?