ESSENTIAL MACAU - AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2017 by ESSENTIAL MACAU

2017年 8-9月第 39期 No. 39 August - September 2017

清爽一夏 Summer mood 遨游澳门最佳泳池 The city's best swimming pools

澳门陆军俱乐部 Clube Militar de Macau 历史的见证，闹市的绿洲 Historical paradise

卡地亚猎豹腕表 Panthère de Cartier 华丽回归 Returning to life

Macau MOP 50 Hong Kong HKD 50 Mainland China RMB 50

刘家扬编辑

EDWINA LIU EDITOR

高温来袭

THE TEMPERATURE’S RISING

夏天是一年中最热闹的季节，世界各地的旅客络绎不绝地来到这个中西合璧的城市，享受难得的假期，其中不少家庭旅客专门到此与孩子一起度过缤纷的天伦之乐。度假村、餐厅和商店都把握时机，使出浑身解数来吸引顾客。为了向所有访客介绍澳门无与伦比的美丽，本期《澳门精华》介绍了澳门最具代表性的独特历史建筑：陆军俱乐部。另外，读者还可以深入了解至今仍备受港澳地区人士传承和喜爱的古老中国书法艺术的魅力。澳门除了丰富的历史文化之外，亦是时尚界最亮眼的新星之一。澳门拥有惊人的奢侈品消费能力，这也是品牌们争相在此开设商店分一杯羹的原因。在这个夏天，法国时装品牌Balmain在全新购物天堂回力时尚坊开设了首个 Balmain Hair Couture 专卖店。《澳门精华》已率先预览店内经典产品。同时，我们更与澳门首位时尚博主梁衍奇会面畅谈，探索这位国际时尚活动的座上宾的经验以及对澳门的时尚产业有着独特的见解。对于那些偕同一家大小前往澳门的旅客，美食和娱乐是非常重要的。尽管澳门是座小城市，但却拥有各式各样的米其林星级餐厅，为您带来层出不穷的惊喜。今期我们采访了米其林星际主厨Norbert Niederkofler，畅谈了他与山之间的紧密联系。此外，更可参考米其林指南香港澳门美食系列即将呈现的活动，寻找更多美味佳肴。最后，游泳必定是您夏季最爱的活动之一，那么一定不能错过我们的泳池推荐，跟我们一起跳进澳门最好的游泳池，体验最酷爽的夏天！

Summer is always the most bustling season of the year. Tourists from all over the world come to this Oriental city full of Western influences in a continuous stream to enjoy their precious vacation break, with lots of families looking for great diversions for the children! Resorts, restaurants and stores jump at this sales opportunity, using all the skills at their disposal to attract more customers. In order to introduce the incomparable charm of this city to all visitors, in this issue Essential Macau tells the story of Clube Militar de Macau, one of the most representative icons of historical architecture in this special town. In addition, find out more about the time honoured art of Chinese calligraphy which is still practised in Macau and Hong Kong. Apart from its rich history and culture, Macau is one of the brightest rising stars in the fashion industry. Luxury consumption in Macau is amazing – which is why brands are lining up to get a slice of the action by opening stores here. This Summer, French fashion house Balmain opened its first ever Balmain Hair Couture in brand new shopping oasis JA Avenue. Essential Macau previews store attractions. We also meet Macau’s first Fashion Blogger in the form of Inky Leong, who frequently appears at international fashion events to monitor the status and future of the Macau fashion industry. For those visiting Macau with family, food and entertainment are high on the agenda. This may be a small city but it punches way above its weight when it comes to Michelin starred restaurants. Check out our interview with Michelin-anointed Chef Norbert Niederkofler, who speaks of the call of the mountains, and take a peek at the Michelin Guide Hong Kong Macau Dining Series to find more delicacies. Last but not least, swimming must have a place on your to-do list this season; so take a leaf out of our book and dive into the best swimming pools in Macau to experience the coolest Summer!

欢迎来到澳门，尽情享受你的假期！

Welcome to Macau, and enjoy your visit!

专题特写 FEATURES

美妆 Beauty 精华奢侈美妆品

ESSENTIAL LUXURIES

艺术 Art 葡萄牙艺术家Vhils在澳门首展“瓦砾”

DEBRIS, THE FIRST SOLO EXHIBITION BY VHILS IN MACAU

书写 Writing 认识中国书法艺术

THE ART BEHIND CHINESE CALLIGRAPHY

奢饮 Drink 味美思的历史

THE HISTORY OF VERMOUTH

遨游澳门最出色的泳池

THE BEST SWIMMING POOLS IN MACAU

96 10

建筑 Architecture 大隐于市的澳门陆军俱乐部

THE STARRED CHEF NORBERT NIEDEROFLER AT ALTIRA MACAU

102

名车 Car

HOSPITALITY NEWS ROUND-UP

104

PORSCHE PRESENTS THE MACAN TURBO PERFORMANCE PACKAGE

PROJECT ASIA CORPORATION CELEBRATES ITS 13TH ANNIVERSARY

108

THE SPECIAL RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN CHOPARD AND MILLE MIGLIA

名表 Watches

THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO LUXURY SHOPPING IN MACAU

THE RETURN OF PANTHÈRE DE CARTIER

展览 Exhibition

伦敦V&A博物馆呈献《巴黎世家：塑造时尚》时装展

V&A MUSEUM SHOWS BALENCIAGA: SHAPING FASHION

新书 Book 新版芭比图书道尽世界上最著名洋娃娃的历险旅程

THE ADVENTURES OF THE MOST SUCCESSFUL TOY DOLL

美发 Hair 近距离探索Balmain Hair巴尔曼护发的品牌故事和产品”

A CLOSER LOOK AT BALMAIN HAIR

新品发布 Collection Moncler盟可睐于香港国际金融中心商场发布全新系列

MONCLER UNVEILS ITS NEW COLLECTION AT HONG KONG IFC MALL

时装 Fashion 《澳门精华》专访本地时装博主梁衍奇

ESSENTIAL MACAU SPEAKS TO FASHION LEONG

BLOGGER INKY

潮流 Trends 梦幻高定时装

DREAMY HAUTE COUTURE

时尚 Fashion 清爽时尚

CHILLED APPEARANCE

时尚坊 Bazaar 梦寐以求的爱物

OBJECTS OF DESIRE 6 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

购物指南 Shopping 澳门奢侈购物精华指南

卡地亚猎豹腕表华丽回归

盛事 Event 传媒集团Project Asia Corporation十三周年庆

名表 Watches 萧邦缘结Mille Miglia古董车赛

新闻速递 Hotel News 酒店业新闻集锦

保时捷发布高性能Macan Turbo

大厨 Chef 意大利名厨诺伯特于澳门新濠锋酒店献艺

CLUBE MILITAR DE MACAU, A HIDDEN PARADISE

热夏 Summer

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创办人 Founding partners Bruce Hawker - bruce.h@essentialmacau.com Paulo A. Azevedo - pazevedo@essentialmacau.com 总监及出版人 Director and publisher Paulo A. Azevedo - pazevedo@essentialmacau.com 国际编辑 International editor Fernando Caetano - fcaetano@essentialmacau.com 编辑助理 Editorial Coordinator Cátia Matos - catia.matos@open-media.net 編輯 Editor Edwina Liu - edwina.liu@projectasiacorp.com 衬衫 SHIRT: CARLOS GIL 半截裙 SKIRT: DIOGO MIRANDA 项链 NECKLACES: ELEUTERIO

摄影及助理 PHOTOGRAPHY: PEDRO FERREIRA ASSISTED BY ANA VIEGAS 模特 MODEL: ALEXANDRA NEFEDOVA (WE ARE MODELS)

活动及特别项目策划 Events and special projects Victoria Man - vman@macausignature.com 高级美术总监 Senior Art director João Cardoso

集团成员公司及办事处 Group companies and offices 澳门 Macau - Global Asia Media Ltd. 澳门马揸度博士大马路679号, 南方工业大厦第三座9楼Ｈ座 Block C, Floor 9H - Edif. Ind. Nam Fong Nº 679 Av. Dr. Francisco Vieira Machado Macau SAR +853 2833 1258 电话：(phone) +853 2833 1487 传真：(fax) Portugal - Open Media S.A. Av. da Liberdade, nº69 2º B. - 1250-140 Lisboa UK - Open Media Ltd. Open Media Ltd. 40 Craven Street Charing Cross London WC2N 5NG 《澳门精华》欢迎投稿及惠赐广告，但稿件之选刊须以本刊编辑方针为准。若希望有关材料获退还，需于投寄时附上回邮信封。《澳门精华》对广告内容概不负责。 Essential Macau welcomes all contributions but under its editorial guidelines. Materials must be accompanied by self-addressed stamped envelopes if they are to be returned. Essential Macau assumes no responsibility for content of advertisements.

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订阅优惠 Subscription 《澳门精华》为奢华时尚双月刊，现读者可以下列优惠价格订阅共6期：香港澳门地区：港币210元；亚洲地区：25美元(空邮)；世界其他国家和地区：30美元 (空邮)。 To receive a copy of this bi-monthly luxury lifestyle magazine, subscribe to Essential Macau for just HKD 210 for Hong Kong and Macau (6 issues), US$ 25 for Asia (by airmail), and US$ 30 for the rest of the world (by airmail). 所有材料 2011 Global Asia Media Ltd版权所有 All materials COPYRIGHT 2011 Global Asia Media Ltd (ISSN): 2221-1438 严禁部分或全部复制本刊内容。 Reproduction in part or in full is strictly prohibited.

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特约撰稿人 Contributing writers Catarina Vasques Rito, Cátia Matos, César Brigante, Cláudia Baptista, Edwina Liu, Guilherme Marques, Luís Antunes 特约摄影师 Contributing photographers Pedro Ferreira, Ricardo Lamego 中文翻译及校对 Chinese language translator/proofreader PROMPT Editorial Services 翻译：韩珺，吴炜声校译：黎庄琳，徐彩燕澳门发行 Distribution in Macau Michael Rimando - mrimando@essentialmacau.com

《澳门精华》由Global Asia Media Ltd出版， Global Asia Media Ltd为 Essential Macau is published by Global Asia Media Ltd, a company owned by:

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Essential JEWELLERY

时光的印证 Witness of time 见证过这个充满欧洲风情城市岁月变迁的澳门陆军俱乐部，今年迎来 147 岁生日 Clube Militar de Macau - one of the most important witnesses of the passage of time in this European flavoured city - celebrates its 147th birthday this year 文/by EDWINA LIU

座

落于澳门中区，一座富有魅力的殖民建筑被漆上了粉色和白色，气势恢宏。这就是澳门陆军俱乐部。相对于嘈杂的澳门新葡京酒店和其他各式酒店，这座低调的建筑显得宁静平和，宛若隐藏在这个躁动城市里的静谧天堂。始建于 1870 年，这座建筑已经见证了澳门 147 年来的沧桑历史。这座葡萄牙新古典主义建筑由 Cercal 男爵设计，原本是一家私人俱乐部，是个为葡萄牙军官提供社交设施和娱乐服务的场所。建筑是城市面貌的体现。陆军俱乐部所在建筑展示了葡萄牙建筑原始而独特的特色，如阳台、百叶窗和西式斜屋顶，而栏杆则呈现出中西合璧的建筑风格。俱乐部曾经临海且只有一层楼，因为资金有限，室内设计十

10 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

分简陋。为了营造空间感，用了镜子、绘画和瓷器来装饰。并从葡萄牙进口了家具，与众多的中式木椅，橱柜，瓷器和其他艺术品摆设相得益彰。

旧貌新颜

1995 年，俱乐部进行了广泛的整改，并将其会员制度改成了半会员制。现今餐馆和画廊都对公众开放。由建筑设计师 Bruno Soares 操刀，建筑保持了旧外观但是内部进行了大改造。为了给会员们增加更多的空间和设施，建筑师加建了一层上层和一个地下室。一进入俱乐部，便会见到欧式的檐部、中式木制家具和绘画相映成趣。一楼保留了

ituated in the centre of Macau, an attractive colonial building painted pink and white stands in splendid grandeur. This is the Clube Militar de Macau. Compared to the buzzing Grand Lisboa and myriad other hotels, the tranquil building is much more peaceful, as if a hidden paradise in the frenetic city. Built in 1870, the building has already witnessed the historic changes of Macau for 147 years; founded as a private club, this Portuguese neo classical building was designed by the Baron of Cercal to provide social facilities and entertainment for Portuguese military officers. Architecture can reflect the status of a city. The building showcases the original and

PHOTO: KARL LAO

Essential ARCHITECTURE

澳门精华 | 2017年 8月- 9月 | 11

Essential ARCHITECTURE

舞厅和餐厅，但已经互相换位了。舞厅的室内设计保留了原来的镜子、家具和水晶吊灯 ;而新的变化是，建筑师在墙壁和拱门上增加了更多的装饰，包括飞檐和贝壳柱顶过梁。舞厅里的何鸿燊厅现开放给会员们举办重要活动。

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peculiar characteristics of Portuguese architecture such as the balconies, louvered windows and Western pitched roof, while the balustrade presents a mix of European and Chinese architectural style. The Club once faced the sea and only comprised a ground floor; because of

restricted funding, the interior design was very simple. To enrich the space, it was decorated with mirrors, paintings and china. Furniture was imported from Portugal, supplemented by many Chinese wooden chairs, cabinets, china and other objet d’art.

Essential ARCHITECTURE

每个周五，会员们可以在这享受精彩的演奏会。为了支持舞厅的运营，俱乐部特设酒吧，提供丰富的饮品。另一边则是典型的葡式餐厅。宾客们可以有机会在这家老式的餐厅里就餐：高高的天花，悠悠旋转的吊扇，拱窗，来自葡萄牙的红色桌布和餐具映衬着静色的木地板，玻璃橱窗里还展示着美丽的葡萄牙青瓷，好一派优雅气氛。餐厅里的两幅中国绘画乃特别订制的，这里提供美味又正宗的葡式菜肴，而且物美价廉。甚至连澳门行政长官也痴迷餐厅出品的美食。为了方便长者和有需要的宾客，此次装修还贴心的增加了一个电梯。除了地面层，第一层和地下室主要只向会员开放。第一层还配套了只向会员开放的会议室、图书馆和办公室，总体设计简约舒适，并以中式和葡式艺术品和家具进行装饰。地下室分隔为休息室、象棋室、书房和公共画廊。而休息室其实就像一个时光机器，把人们带回往日时光。布满墙上的是从 20 世纪 30 年代到近几年的海报，休息室里还配备了桌球台、电视，当然还有酒吧。装修后的另一个变化是加设了直接通向画廊的侧门。画廊定期举办免费展览，办展艺术家们会慷慨地留下艺术作品，使俱乐部的故事更美丽、更丰富。如今陆军俱乐部建筑每两年会进行彻底的检修。在未来，俱乐部将继续见证这座城市的每一时刻，充当一座连结中西文化的活桥梁。 쐽

AFTER THE MAKEOVER In 1995, Clube Militar de Macau underwent extensive renovation and changed its membership a to semi-membership system. The restaurant and gallery are now open to the public. Under the design of architect Bruno Soares, the building retains its original façade but the indoor space was given a makeover. In order to increase more space to add more facilities for members, the architect added an upper floor and basement. Upon entering the Club, the European-style entablature, Chinese wooden furniture and paintings make an interesting contrast. The ground floor retains the ballroom and restaurant but switches position. The interior design of the ballroom retains the original mirrors, furniture and crystals chandelier; what is new is that the architect added more decoration to the walls and arches, including cornices and shell architraves. The ballroom - the Stanley Ho Room - is now open for members to host events. Every Friday, members can enjoy a wonderful concert here. To support the ballroom’s operation, a bar offers a wide selection of drinks. On the other side is a typical Portuguese-style restaurant. Gusts can have the opportunity to dine in style in its old fashioned dining hall with its tall ceilings, whirring ceiling fans, arched windows, and wooden floor offset by red tablecloths and tableware from Portugal as

well as beautiful green Portuguese porcelain in a glass showcase. Two Chinese paintings were specially drawn for this restaurant, which offers delicious and authentic Portuguese cuisine at reasonable prices. Even the Chief Executive is a fan of the food here. For the elderly people and those who find it to walk, an elevator was added to the building during the renovation. In addition to the ground floor, the upper floor and basement are mostly only opened for members. The upper floor teams up with the meeting room; library and office, which are only open to members, while the overall design is simple and cozy, and decorated with Chinese and Portuguese artwork and furniture. The basement is separated by the lounge, chess room, study room and public gallery. The lounge, in fact, is like a time machine transporting people back to the old days. Posters from the 1930s to recent years pepper the walls, with the room equipped with pool table, television and, of course, a bar. Another change after the renovation is the side door which directly leads to the gallery. The gallery itself hosts regularly hosts free exhibitions, with exhibitors generously leaving artworks to enrich the story of the club. Now the building is overhauled every two years. In the future, the Club will continue to witness every moment of this city, a living bridge of cultural integration. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2017年 8月- 9月 | 13

Essential CAR

华贵不凡 Improving the breed 保时捷永远在改进车型，而 Macan Turbo 刚刚配备了性能包，使其更形特别 Porsche is forever improving its models, and the Macan Turbo has just received a Performance Package that makes it even more special 文/by GUILHERME MARQUES

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Essential CAR

he Macan is the goose with the golden eggs for Porsche and for good reason. It’s the most beautiful SUV in its segment, it’s the most special behind the wheel and, of course, it’s a Porsche. No one has ever accused the Turbo version of being slow, but the German brand thought it was best to add a little more fairy dust and create the Macan Turbo Performance Package. The V6 3.6-litre turbo now packs 440 horsepower (+40hp) and 600Nm of torque (+50Nm). The 0-100km/h has dropped to 4.4 seconds

(-0.4s) and the top speed has increased from 266km/h to 272km/h. The chassis was adjusted for an even more dynamic performance, there is a new, more powerful braking system and faster gear changes in the transmission. Some optional extras, such as the 21-inch wheels and high-gloss black body elements, enhance the aggressive aesthetic of the new top-of-the-range Macan and make this sporty SUV even more appealing. Generally speaking, the best Macan is even better. 쐽

acan是保时捷的杀手锏，理由很多。它是市面上中型豪华SUV中最美艳的，它令驾驶者感觉最特别，还有 ——当然，这是一款保时捷！没有人指责 Turbo 版本过慢，但该德国尊尚品牌认为，最好添加更多的魔幻性能，因此创造了 Macan Turbo 性能包。3.6 升双涡轮直喷 V-6 发动机的最大功率达到了 440 马力（+ 40 马力），最大扭矩为 600Nm（+50Nm）。 0-100km/h 直线加速性能减至 4.4 秒（-0.4 秒），最高时速从 266km/h 增加到 272km/h。调整后的底盘动力性能更好，全新制动系统更加强横，传动装置变速更快。一些供选择配件配饰，例如 21 英寸车轮和高光黑车身元素，使独特不凡的全新 Macan 在外观上更形霸气，使得这款运动型 SUV 更具吸引力。总的来说，Macan 出类拔萃，无出其右。 쐽 澳门精华 | 2017年 8月- 9月 | 15

Essential WATCHES

比赛精神 Racing spirit 萧邦推出有史以来最为尊贵的 Mille Miglia 系列腕表 Chopard launches the most exclusive Mille Miglia model ever 文/by CÁTIA MATOS

今

年是 Mille Miglia 一千英里耐力赛赛事 90 周年，经过多年的发展，它已经以全世界最美车赛而为世人所知。在 1927 年至 1957 年之间，Mille Miglia 一千英里耐力赛的最初版本是在意大利举行的开放公路耐力赛，但从 1977 年至今，它已成为古董车界的重要大事。每年，古典汽车收藏家和爱好者们聚集一起，参加赛事，整个赛程依然走近似最初赛事的路线，从布雷西亚出发前往罗马，途经无数意大利的城市，再次折回。 1988 年，萧邦 Chopard 以主要赞助商身姿，成为了这个标志性比赛的一部分，同时也是最早涉足汽车世界的品牌之一。这段合作关系缘于该瑞士制造商联合总裁卡尔 -弗 16 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

雷德里克·舍费尔（Karl-Friedrich Scheufele）本人对古董车的热情。卡尔-弗里德克·舍费尔解释两者之间的自然联系时说道，“热爱精致汽车的人，常常对于精致时计毫无抵抗力；反之亦然。对于这两者来说，极度的精准和优雅的运动美感尤为重要。” 自此，萧邦每年都推出几款与 Mille Miglia 主题相关的奢华运动腕表特别版，从而造就了这个独一无二的系列，成为了目前品牌的运动精神标杆之作，也是 Mille Miglia 赛事精神的缩影。今年，为纪念该传奇赛事 90 周年，日内瓦萧邦表厂呈献自家认为是这个系列中最独特的型号：限量 90 枚的 Mille Miglia Classic XL 九

t turns 90 this year and, over the years, it has become known as the most beautiful race in the world. The original version of the Mille Miglia (one thousand miles), between 1927 and 1957, was an endurance race that took place on the open roads of Italy, but since 1977 until present day, it has become an important event for vintage cars. Classic car collectors and enthusiasts come together every year to take part in a similar route to the original, setting off from Brescia towards Rome, passing through countless Italian cities, and then back again. It was in 1988 that Chopard also became a part of this iconic race, in the form of the official

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Essential WATCHES

From left to right: Romain Dumas –Porsche driver, Christine Scheufele -wife of Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Karl Scheufele, Chopard board chairman, Jack Icky –legendary driver and Chopard ambassador, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Co-president of Chopard

十周年限量版腕表。此款腕表中，用玫瑰金打造 46 毫米的表壳，厚度仅为 13 毫米，以致敬这一古董车赛事的复古精神。另一个亮点则是，配有瑞士官方天文台（COSC）认证的 L.U.C 03.07-L1 计时机芯。据品牌称，这款表的灵感源自“法拉利 Ferrari 250 GTO 跑车流畅匀称的车身、阿尔发罗密欧 Alfa Romeo 6C 跑车强劲有力的线条、阿斯顿马丁 Aston Martin 跑车的性感魅力、保时捷 Porsche 550 RS 跑车的建造品质 ”。腕表还配备防眩光蓝宝石水晶表镜搭配复古棕色小牛皮表带。由 300 块零件和 38 颗宝石组成，腕表提供 60 小时动力储存和 50 米防水能力。它还包含时、分、秒和计时秒针功能，3 点钟位置的 30 分钟计时器,6 点钟位置的 12 小时计时器。除了这款限量版，还有 Mille Miglia 2017 Race Edition 腕表。这款表以直径 44 毫米的精钢表壳搭载自动上链计时机芯，具备小时、分钟、小秒、计时器、测速器刻度和日期显示。限量发行 1000 枚精钢材质版及 100 枚 18K 玫瑰金精钢材质版，拥有 48 小时的动力储存，保证 100 米防水。黑色橡胶制成的表带饰以轮胎胎面纹路，搭配精钢折叠式表扣。 The Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph 自动上链计时腕表是另一款由萧邦推出的与赛事主题相关的款式。男士和女士版本均体现出复古风格，完美融合优雅设计和高精度的机械装置。男士腕表搭配黑色或银色表盘和大型 18 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

sponsor and the first brand to become associated to the car world. The start of this relationship was born from the passion that Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, co-president of the Swiss manufacturer, nurtured for classic cars. “Lovers of fine cars often have a great weakness for precious timepieces and vice versa. Extreme precision and sporting elegance are important in both of these fields,” explained Karl-Friedrich Scheufele about the natural link between the two. Since then, Chopard has presented several special models associated to the Mille Miglia annually, which have contributed towards an exclusive collection that is currently the unmistakable sports symbol of the brand and the epitome of the spirit of the Italian race. This year, and as a way of marking the 90th anniversary of the legendary race, the Genevan manufacturer presents what it believes to be the most exclusive model ever of this collection. Limited to 90 pieces, the Mille Miglia Classic XL 90th Anniversary, with a 46mm rose gold case with a thickness of 13mm, pays tribute to the vintage spirit of the event. A highlight is its chronograph movement L.U.C 03.07-L, certified by COSC. Inspired by “the curved design of a Ferrari 250 GTO, the taut lines of an Alfa

Essential JEWELLERY

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Essential JEWELLERY

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Essential WATCHES

Romeo 6C, the sensuality of an Aston Martin, the construction quality of a Porsche 550 RS”, according to the brand, it features a crystal sapphire back and a matte calfskin strap. Comprising 300 pieces and 38 jewels, this model presents a power reserve of 60 hours and water resistance to 50 metres. It also includes hours, minutes, seconds and small seconds functions, a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and a 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock. Alongside this special model is the Mille Miglia 2017 Race Edition. This piece features a 44mm case with self-winding mechanical movement and hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph, tachymeter and date functions. Limited to 1000 pieces in stainless steel and 100 in stainless steel and 18-carat rose gold, it has a power reserve of 48 hours and ensures water-tightness to 100 metres. The strap is made from black rubber with tyre-tread motif with steel-folding clasp. The Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph is another model associated to the event launched by the maison. With a vintage touch and avail-

able in men’s and women’s versions, it beautifully blends elegant design and high-precision mechanisms. In the men’s version, the dial ranges between black and silver, with large luminescent numerals and a black rubber strap with tyre-tread effect and a buckle closure. The ladies’ version appears in silver or white crafted from mother-of-pearl and studded with diamonds, with a white rubber strap also featuring the tyre-tread profile. With a 42mm and 39mm case, respectively, the models have a stainless steel case and transparent sapphire crystal glass, and are water-proof to 50 metres. “I always liked the spirit of classic cars (...) I saw the opportunity of being recognised as the one brand that is really connected with classic car racing. The fact is, you have all the car brands represented – those who are still active today and also those who don’t exist anymore. It gives a sporty, but also very elegant, chic image to our brand,” Karl-Friedrich Scheufele told the site Haute Time in 2013, reiterating the wonderful relationship between Chopard and “the world’s most beautiful race”. 쐽

荧光数字，配衬饰以黑色轮胎胎面纹路的橡胶表带和针式表扣。女士腕表则配备白色珍珠贝表盘，银色镌刻时标，并缀以绚丽的美钻，同样搭配饰有轮胎胎面纹路的白色橡胶表带。男女款的表径分别为 42 和 39 毫米，都采用精钢表壳和透明蓝宝石水晶玻璃，并可防水 50 米。卡尔 -弗雷德里克 ·舍费尔 2013 年在 Haute Time 网站上重申了萧邦和 “全世界最美丽的赛事 ”之间的美好关系， “我一直喜欢古典汽车的精神(……) 我看到了机会，萧邦将被认可为是唯一一个真正与古典赛车赛事相关联的品牌。事实是，你会见到所有汽车品牌都亮相赛事上——包括那些现在仍然活跃的品牌，还有那些已经消失的品牌。它不但给我们的品牌带来运动感，而且也赋予品牌极度优雅的时尚形象。” 쐽 澳门精华 | 2017年 8月- 9月 | 21

Essential WATCHES

征服深海 Conquering the deep 庆祝潜水表 Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller 问世五十周年，万众瞩目的劳力士重新演绎这传奇腕表，推出全新表款 In the year that marks the 50th anniversary of its launch, the Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller from Rolex has been updated 文/by CÉSAR BRIGANTE

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如这家夙负盛名的日内瓦制表商推出的其它表款，劳力士 Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller 以精密腕表的姿态问世，原本是专为深海潜水先驱所设计。然而，随着时光递嬗，这款广受欢迎的手表逐渐为大众追捧，象征尊尚地位与独特的生活品味，男人很难对它无动于衷。因此，我们可以坦言，这款时计原本的潜水表功能已不再重要。即便如此，Sea-Dweller 腕表依旧纳入顶级工艺且推陈出新，不时更新功能，最终推出表壳 43 毫米的全新 Sea-Dweller Ref. 126600 表款。此外，劳力士考虑到广大顾客的偏好以及旧款腕表于拍卖会标售的天价，决定力排众议，让新款改头换面，展现更为精致高贵的样貌。

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首款 Sea-Dweller 于 1967 年问世，此前的十年内，劳力士便不断与世界顶尖海洋工程公司 COMEX（Compagnie Maritime d’Expertises）的深海潜水员携手合作，致力于打造更精确的专业潜水表，使其超越前身 Submariner 腕表。首款 Sea-Dweller 腕表的防水深度已经达到 600 米，与防水深度只有这一半的 Submariner 相较，着实令人赞叹不已。此外， Sea-Dweller 配备劳力士专利的排氦阀门。此种创新设计起初看似多余，但后来证明非常管用，因为潜水员经常必须在减压室待上数日，腕表背面的排气阀有助在减压时释放表壳内部的氦气。

ust like other models from the prestigious Genevan house, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller emerged as a precision tool developed for an extreme profession, in this case deep-sea diving. However, over time, its success turned it into an object of desire, a synonym of status and a certain lifestyle to which few men remain indifferent, to the point that, dare we say, its first function became secondary. Despite that, its technical capacity remains intact and is updated from time to time, which is exactly what happened with the new SeaDweller 43mm Ref. 126600. At the same time, it received some alternations in terms of aesthetics, something not everyone agrees on, considering the vast following that the brand attracts and the price that the vintage pieces achieve in auction. When, in 1967, the Sea-Dweller first arrived on the market, it had already spent a decade being developed in partnership with deep-water divers from COMEX (Compagnie Maritime d’Expertises), with the purpose of obtaining an even more efficient instrument, professionally speaking, than its predecessor the Submariner. The first Sea-Dweller was already waterproof to a depth of 600 metres, which is impressive if we compare it to the Submariner, which was only half as resistant. Besides that, it was equipped with an innovative helium release valve, patented by Rolex, as well as a date indicator, which might seem unnecessary at first, but which proved to be very useful considering that divers would frequently have to stay in decompression chambers for several days.

在今年初的巴塞尔高级腕表展（Baselworld）上，本系列最新表款首度面世。前次的更新是在 2013 年，而最新款 Sea-Dweller 腕表配备了数种崭新功能：表壳直径从 40 毫米增至 43 毫米，蓝水晶镜面 3 点钟位置更添加小窗凸透镜，可放大日历，这是劳力士腕表的特色，但首度出现于 Sea-Dweller 腕表。新款时计也配置 904L 不锈钢表壳，完全耐腐蚀，防水深度到达 1220 米，而表壳内部搭载的新一代 3235 型机械机芯完全由劳力士设计与制造，乃是为了确保防水性能、精准可靠、动力储备与抗震防摔达致最佳表现。表带如同表壳，亦采用 904L 不锈钢打造，外观也重新设计过。为了庆贺 Sea-Dweller 表款问世五十周年，黑色表盘以红色字体镌刻型号名称 “Sea-Dweller”字眼，对 1967 年的首款腕表献上最高的礼赞。 쐽

The latest successor of this lineage, presented to the public for the first time at the Baselworld fair earlier this year, has several new features since the last update in 2013: the size of the case, which went from 40 to 43mm, and the introduction of the characteristic Cyclops, a magnifying glass above the date at 3 o’clock, featured in other Rolex models but a first in the Sea-Dweller. Inside the case, in 904L steel, completely resistant to corrosion and waterproof to 1220 metres, is the new-generation movement. The automatic calibre 3235 was conceived and produced in its entirety by Rolex so as to ensure the maximum level of water tightness, precision, power reserve and shock resistance. The strap, in the same steel as the case, was also redesigned, while the black dial, as an homage to the 50th anniversary, features the Sea-Dweller name inscribed in red in a nod to the original 1967 model. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2017年 8月- 9月 | 23

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猎豹腕表华丽回归 The Panthère is back 诞生于八十年代，停产于 2004 年，如今 Panthère de Cartier 卡地亚猎豹腕表精彩回归 Created in the ‘80s and discontinued in 2004, the Panthère de Cartier is back 文/by CÉSAR BRIGANTE

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Essential WATCHES

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为卡地亚于 2017 年推出的最重要的一款产品，今年年初 Panthère 猎豹的回归，证实了即便目前受市场形势推动，卡地亚正经历着重整阶段，这个巴黎奢侈品牌还是拥有丰富的女式珠宝传统。在 1984 年首次推出的男女猎豹款式中，最具代表性的是女士腕表，是“八十年代精神” 的最佳体现，即便在停产 20 年后，其经典地位仍难撼动，在古董表市场备受追捧。风格上和品牌的装饰艺术 DNA 非常贴近，这款腕表保留了经典的美洲豹主题，最初是由才思敏捷的让那-图桑（Jeanne Toussaint) 所设计。图桑是 Louis Cartier 时代的品牌高级珠宝艺术总监。据说其设计受到了意大利暗黑女侯爵 Marchesa Casati 启发。它不仅是精致腕表，更是臻美珠宝。灵活自如的链节表链，柔和服帖手腕，可配衬各种不同场合和生活方式。分为中号和小 26 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

resented at the beginning of the year as the most important launch by Cartier in 2017, the return of the Panthère confirms the female jewellery heritage of the luxury Parisian house as it undergoes a realignment phase, prompted by the current market situation. Introduced for the first time in 1984, with versions for men and women, it was the ladies’ version that best incarnated the spirit of the decade and which, even after being discontinued 20 years after its launch, continued to be an iconic piece, with high demand on the vintage market. Very close in style to the house’s Art Deco DNA, the piece is in keeping with the classic leopard theme, originally introduced in the house in the days of the exuberant Jeanne Toussaint, jewellery director in the Louis Cartier

Essential WATCHES

号两种尺寸，入门款式的材质包含精钢或黄金、玫瑰金或白金；中间价位款式则是黄金和精钢表壳镶嵌明亮式切割圆钻；另有两个更高端精致的版本，卡粉可以看价格选择心头好：一款白金表壳和表链镶嵌明亮式切割钻石 (中小号表款 )，另一款则是同等的白金和钻石材质，饰以亮漆豹纹 (只限中号表款)。 쐽

era, who, it’s said, was inspired by the eccentric Marchesa Casati. The model is meant to be worn as a fashion accessory, with an extremely supple strap that adapts well to the wrist and with versions for every occasion and lifestyle. Available in small and medium sizes, the piece appears in a simpler format in stainless steel or yellow, pink

or white gold, an intermediate piece, in yellow gold and stainless steel whose dial is framed by diamond paving, and two more sophisticated versions, with price tags to match: one in white gold covered in diamonds (small and medium in size), and another with the same white gold and diamonds but with a leopard-print effect (only in medium format). 쐽 澳门精华 | 2017年 8月- 9月 | 27

CristĂłbal Balenciaga at work, Paris, 1968 ÂŠ Henri Cartier-Bresson / Magnum Photos

Essential EXHIBITION

'Baby doll' cocktail dress, crêpe de chine, lace and satin, Cristóbal Balenciaga, Paris, 1958

Spiral hat, silk, Balenciaga for EISA, Spain, 1962

Evening dress, wild silk with embroidery by Lesage, Cristóbal Balenciaga, Paris, 1960-1962

向最具影响力的时装设计师致敬 The most influential designer 伦敦 V&A 博物馆呈献《巴黎世家：塑造时尚》时装展 The V&A Museum presents Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion 文/by EDWINA LIU

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巴黎世家基金会（ Balenciaga Foundation）成立 100 周年致敬献礼，维多利亚和艾尔伯特博物馆（Victoria and Albert Museum，简称 V&A 博物馆）举办奢侈时装屋 Balenciaga 巴黎世家的同名创办人、 20 世纪最具影响力的时装设计师 Cristóbal Balenciaga 的作品回顾展。展览聚焦 Balenciaga 职业生涯后期，主要展示出自其创意巅峰时期 1950、 1960 年代的时装作品。《巴黎世家：塑造时尚》时装展分三阶段回故设计师的创作生涯，包括：Front of House（屋前），Workrooms（工作室）以及 Balenciaga’s Legacy（巴黎世家的遗产）。涉及本次展览的研究工作历时一年半，展出的上百件成衣以及二十顶帽饰设计，很多都前所未见，此外还展示相关素描、照片、文件和布料样品。展览中，V&A 博物馆首次采用了结合 x 射线、数码放大及扫描的技术，将肉眼看不到的服饰内部结构清晰展现。此次策展人为 Cassie Davies Strodder。展览将于 V&A 持续到明年 2 月 18 日结束。维多利亚和艾尔伯特博物馆克伦威尔路，伦敦 쐽

X-ray by Nick Veasey, 2016

s a way to mark the centennial of the Balenciaga Foundation, the Victoria & Albert Museum in London brings an exhibition that explores the work of Cristóbal Balenciaga, one of the most influential designers of the 20th century. Focusing on the last years of the fashion designer’s career, between 1950 and 1960 (considered his most creative period), Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion is split into three phases – Front of House, Workrooms and Balenciaga’s Legacy. The display, which involved around 18 months of research, brings together 120 pieces of clothing and hats, many of which never before seen, as well as sketches, drawings, photographs, documents and fabric samples. Also worth highlighting is the technology used by the museum for the first time, incorporating X-Ray, digital zoom and film, with the purpose of sharing some details associated to Balenciaga’s pieces that are impossible to see with the naked eye. Curated by Cassie Davies-Strodder, the exhibition will be on display at the V&A Museum until February 18, 2018. Victoria & Albert Museum Cromwell Road, London 쐽 澳门精华 | 2017年 8月- 9月 | 29

Essential BOOK

芭比的世界 Barbie world 世界上最著名的芭比娃娃的历险旅程尽在此书中 The adventures of the world’s most famous doll are brought together in one book

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活时尚书籍出版商 Assouline 最新发布的新书向世界上最著名的洋娃娃致敬。《The Art of @BarbieStyle》汇集芭比 Instagram 网页 (@barbiestyle)上最好的名言警句和图像。该网页有约 170 万位粉丝。从现代数码世界的角度来看，这本芭比图书细节丰富，详述了芭比的现代身份，以及对各种主题的独特观点，例如生活、时装、艺术、旅游和与我们至爱的人相处的重要性。芭比诞生于 1959 年，自此在世界各地圈粉无数，粉丝来自过去和当今的不同年代。芭比娃娃反思了现代文化的发展，且给多个领域例如艺术和时装带来创作灵感，从而成为了家喻户晓的世界知名美丽玩偶和无可争议的潮流创造者。 쐽

he latest book launched by the publisher of lifestyle books Assouline pays tribute to the most famous doll in the world. The Art of @BarbieStyle is a compilation of the best quotes and images that can be found on Barbie’s Instagram page (@barbiestyle), which currently has around 1.7 billion followers. From a more contemporary perspective of the digital world, this book is filled with details, and illustrates Barbie’s modern identity and unique point of view on various themes, such as life, fashion, art, travel and the importance of being with those we love most. Created in 1959, the famous doll has won over fans across the world over the years, having marked generations past and present. Reflecting the evolution of modern culture and serving as creative inspiration in several fields, such as art and fashion, she became an unavoidable beauty icon and an unarguable trendsetter on an international scale. 쐽 30 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential JEWELLERY

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Essential HAIR

法式 · 发式· 时尚 Drench yourself in French 现代女性会盛装打扮，以千姿百态出席各种社交场合。有了 Balmain Hair Couture 护发与假发系列产品，便可轻松亮丽装扮头发，展现走秀模特般的妩媚风采 Modern females are donning a variety of styles for different occasions, and with Balmain Hair Couture fantastic runway looks are within easy reach 文/by EDWINA LIU

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国知名时尚品牌 Balmain 巴尔曼推出的 Hair Couture 系列，业已成为时尚达人追捧的美发产品。时装设计师皮埃尔．巴尔曼（Pierre Balmain）于 1946 年创立 Balmain，该品牌素以“美丽女士”（Jolie Madam）香水名闻遐迩，其形塑的品味迥异于现今的休闲实用风格，深为欧洲贵族与好莱坞明星所爱。 Hair Couture 隶属于 Balmain Paris，但名声不如该品牌的时装系列响亮。我们不妨仔细探索这个追求时尚的美发系列产品。其实，Hair Couture 拥有 40 多年的优良传统，推出的护发造型产品总能迎合最新的走秀趋势，甚至从后台化妆室汲取秘诀和灵感来设计产品，满足所有女性的需求，使其展现出走秀模特儿极致华丽、风格出众的美发造型。 32 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Hair Couture 系列推出之后，Balmain 的产品更显完备。为了形塑模特儿迷人妩媚的发型，Hair Couture 独家推出一系列可假发与发饰产品。全部假发皆以百分之百的高级真发制作，因此犹如常人头发，极易吹直或弄卷；数十年来，Hair Couture 积累了丰富的专业技术，发展出媲美真发的人造假发。专利的记忆发丝可展现真人头发的各种特征，不仅柔顺如真发，亦能散发真发般的天然光泽。

招牌产品

Hair Couture 发型产品不仅供旗下模特儿使用，也公开发售予消费者。Balmain 的系列 Ready-To-Wear Collection 包含可随意佩戴的各色头发造型产品。若想加长头发或增加发量，不妨戴 “半假发（ ” Half Wig）。这种

outure from French fashion house Balmain is currently one of the most popular brands for fashionistas. The brand founded by Pierre Balmain in 1946 and famous for its ‘Jolie Madam’ style - offers a startling contrast to the relaxed and utilitarian look of today and is beloved by European and Hollywood royalty. As part of the Balmain Paris fashion label, Balmain Hair is less well known than the clothing line so let’s take a closer look. Actually, Balmain Hair has over 40 years of heritage in combining hair essentials with the latest catwalk trends, with collections inspired by backstage secrets that concoct all a woman needs to create the ultimate inspired catwalk look.

Essential HAIR

假发以记忆发丝制成，触感柔顺自然，能与真发融合得天衣无缝。只要使用两个弹性发梳，便能在一分钟内将假发固定于头发上。女人应该随机应变、随心所欲地变换发型；Hair Dress 系列产品能让直发瞬间变成卷发，或者将俏丽短发换成飘逸长发。即使最谨慎小心的使用者也无需担心会伤害头发，因为 “填充发缕 ” （Fill-in Strand）是固定于头发顶部与底部之间，绝对不会从真发上滑落。在 Balmain 的 T 台上，总会看到扎着整齐马尾辫的模特儿在走秀，此种发型已成为该品牌的标志造型。有了“走秀马尾辫” （Catwalk Ponytail），消费者便能轻松绑出这 34 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Balmain Hair was created to support the house brands. In order to create a fantastic hairstyle on the runway, Balmain Hair developed an exclusive ready-to-wear collection of hairpieces and hair additions. All the hairpieces are made of 100% high quality human hair. The hair is easy to straighten and curl like normal hair; over the decades, Balmain Hair has developed expertise in the creation of artificial human hair which is similar to human hair. The patented Memory Hair is created with all human hair features in mind. It is not only as soft as real human hair, it also captures the natural lustre of human hair.

SIGNATURE PRODUCTS Now, the hair products are not only offered to its models but to all its customers. The Balmain Ready-To-Wear Collection showcases a wide variety of products that are easy to wear. For those who want to lengthen and add volume, The Half Wig is perfect. Made of Memory Hair, it feels natural and blends beautifully into the wearer’s natural hair. With two flexible combs, customers can secure the wig onto the hair in one minute. Women’s hair should be played by ear; the Hair Dress could make the hair from straight to curly, or from short to long in just a few minutes. Even

Essential HAIR

sensitive people don’t worry about hurting their hair because the Fill-in Strand is placed between the top and base of the hair, thus there is no chance of the dress hair sliding from the natural hair. Neat ponytails are always appearing on Balmain’s runway and have become the iconic look of the brand. With the Catwalk Ponytail, the fashionable hairdo is within easy reach. Customers need only select their favourite ponytail from straight to curly and the trendy Dip Dye Pastel Shades - a professional stylist will help create the fashionable hairdo in less than five minutes. No matter customers want to pump up the volume, change their hairstyle or even want a fringe, the hairpieces and hair additions can make their dreams come true.

种时尚发型。只需选择最喜爱的马尾辫（各种样式皆有，从直发到卷发，甚至于流行的 “浸染淡彩系列 ”﹝ Dip Dye Pastel Shades）），不到五分钟客户便可让专业造型师替自己形塑出迷人的时尚发型。无论是想增加头发厚度、改变发型，或者添加刘海，假发与发饰产品都能让客户美梦成真。

澳门巴尔曼

时尚品牌 Balmain 近期首度登陆澳门，于崭新的美妆潮流新地标回力时尚坊

（JA Avenue）开设分店。澳门的地标性建筑回力娱乐场大楼（Jai Alai building）翻新之后，化身为时尚社交中心，内含酒店、商场、餐厅与娱乐场。回力时尚坊是翻新项目最重要的元素之一。这个占地 30,000 平方米的购物天堂容纳超过 60 个化妆品和香水品牌，许多品牌都是首度进驻澳门。宾客可在奢华环境中享受温馨舒适、宾至如归的服务。为了让宾客享有更棒的购物体验与更加了解产品，回力时尚坊设置四个宽敞的房间，让顾客试用产品并分享护肤经验。 쐽

BALMAIN IN TOWN Balmain Hair recently opened its first ever store in Macau at brand new fashion destination JA Avenue. Following renovation, Macau’s iconic Jai Alai building has been transformed into a chic social hub comprising hotel, shopping, dining and entertainment. JA Avenue is one of the most important elements of this project. This 30,000 square foot shopping paradise boasts over 60 cosmetic and perfume brands, many of which are debuting in the city. Guests can enjoy comfortable, courteous service in lavish surroundings. To enhance the shopping experience and let patrons know more about the products, JA Avenue has set up four spacious rooms for guests to try the products and communicate about the skincare experience. 쐽

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Essential COLLECTION

高山的呼唤 Call of the mountains 意大利品牌 Moncler 盟可睐在香港举行活动，发布其 2017-18 秋冬系列 Italian brand Moncler hosts an event in Hong Kong to unveil their fantastic Fall/Winter collection 文/by EDWINA LIU

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大利服装制造商和生活时尚品牌 Moncler 盟可睐最近举办活动，在香港国际金融中心商场发布其 2017 秋冬系列。 Moncler 盟可睐 1952 年创办于法国格勒诺布尔的 Monestier-de-Clermont，目前总部位于意大利。多年来，品牌在登山运动专家协助下，展开不断的技术研究，研发出融合风格美学与技术功能的产品。此次活动中，发布了 2017 秋冬系列 Moncler 盟可睐主线女装、男装、针织服装和 Moncler 盟可睐配饰系列。主线系列包括：著名时尚画家和插画家 Jean-Philippe 36 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Delhomme 创作的 “Art meets Mountain 艺术遇上山 ”系列 ;Moon Ray 月光踪迹系列 — — 该系列探索现代设计方法，其中至臻完美的是一款长夹克（包脖毛领，绗缝衬里，以大格子装饰，采用银色棉蜡面料制作）； Caranel-land 系列，包含了一系列 “可拆分 ” 产品，让人感到舒适和温暖 ;此外还有 Blue Club 蓝色俱乐部系列，以及 Mr. Moncler 和 Mrs. Moncler 系列。实验、多用途和多种美学语言交汇是最能描述盟可睐 MONCLER 的关键词。女鞋系列全部采用锯齿状的鞋底设计。当 T 台上小牛

talian apparel manufacturer and lifestyle brand Moncler recently hosted an event to introduce their 2017 Fall/Winter collection at Hong Kong IFC mall. Founded at Monestierde-Clermont, Grenoble, France in 1952, the brand is currently headquartered in Italy. Over the years it has combined style with constant technological research assisted by experts in activities linked to the world of mountains. During the event, the brand unveiled its 2017 Fall/Winter Moncler Main Womenswear, Menswear, Knitwear and Moncler Accessories.

Essential COLLECTION

皮和小马皮登山靴等传统款式与锯齿状鞋底这个创新大胆新设计相碰撞，呈现的是一种整洁、现代的美学。今年，盟可睐 Moncler 男鞋推出了一系列都市风登山靴，如标志性的鞋款 Pedula，是一款灵感源自高山极端环境的男靴，配有及踝鞋带。袋和背包系列则带有明显的阿尔卑斯风，呈现的是最经典的款式。所有包包的设计灵感都是受诸如乞力马扎罗山（Mount Kilimanjaro）和麦金利山（McKinley Mountain）等著名山峰所启发，并由盟可睐 Moncler 的标志性超轻材料制成，展示了清晰的山地风格。整个系列采用经典的盟可睐 Moncler 双色调：红色和浅蓝色，黑色和军绿色。全新系列将于 2017 年秋季起在所有盟可睐 Moncler 专卖店、精选百货公司和品牌官网 moncler.com 发售。 쐽

The Main collection comprises ‘Art meets Mountain’ created by famous fashion painter and illustrator Jean-Philippe Delhomme; Moon Ra - a perfect example of this modern approach to design is the Long Jacket with enveloping fur collar and quilted fabric, dressed with large checks and produced using silver-toned waxed cotton, Caranel-land - a collection of ‘splittable’ items - gives the consideration of comfort and thermal; with Blue Club and Mr. Moncler & Mrs. Moncler also available. Experimental, multipurpose and interwoven language are the keys that best describe Moncler’s Fall/Winter accessories. A jagged sole runs through the whole collection of women’s footwear. When traditional models such as calfskin and pony skin mountain boots meet this new element, a clean, modern aesthetic

emerges. This year, Moncler men’s footwear launches a series of mountain boots with an urban flavour such as iconic shoe model Pedula – a boot inspired by the extreme environment of the mountains, with ankle-length laces. An evident Alpine influence continues through to the bag and backpack collection, in the most classic of forms. All the bags are inspired by renowned peaks such as Mount Kilimanjaro and McKinley Mountain, and made of Moncler’s trademark ultra light materials showcasing a clear-cut reference to mountain terrain. The whole collection comes in classic Moncler two-tone in flame red and light blue, black and military green. The collection will be available to buy from Autumn 2017 in all Moncler boutiques, selective department stores and from moncler.com 쐽 澳门精华 | 2017年 8月- 9月 | 37

Essential FASHION

敢于梦想 Dare to dream “敢于梦想，并且努力实现之 ”— — 时装博主梁衍奇回顾他如何追逐他的时装梦 “Dare to dream and keep striving for it” - Fashion blogger Inky Leong recounts how he chases his fashion dream 文/by EDWINA LIU

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些经常关注本地时尚新闻的时装爱好者们，也许对这样一个长着浓浓眼眉毛，以前卫装扮出现于澳门、香港等行业盛会，并且会现身于伦敦时装周、巴黎时装周和首尔时装周的亚洲男孩有印象。他就是梁衍奇（Inky Leong）了。他是一名时装爱好者、时装博客、时装店运营者和时装品牌创办人。梁衍奇在澳门长大，在母亲的影响下，从小时候开始就对服装产生兴趣。“我看着母亲打扮，并且跟她一起去购物。所以我很喜欢服饰，并且从那个时候开始就很注重自己的打扮。后来，当我到了 16 岁的时候，我加入了一间服装商店，它当时是最有影响力，最有潮流的品牌。” 可是在当时，市面上的服装店还没有试过雇佣男性销售员，但是这并没有阻止梁衍奇追求自己的梦想。 “我就是想加入这家品牌店，”梁衍奇这样说。“因为这个品牌在澳门和香港是最红的。就算当时机会渺茫，但我依然坚持尝试。我带上自己的简历去见经理，他跟我说他们并不打算请男销售员，但是他不介意给我一个面试的机会。所以我最终有机展示了自己对这个职位以及对时装的热情。经理对我的印象非常深刻，所以他破例雇佣了我。这就是我的时装职业生涯的开始了。” 加入了他钟情的时装行业之后，梁衍奇发现这个充满色彩的探索比他想象中更加有趣，他更加有理由悉心装扮自己了。喜欢精心装点自己的男性在当时饱受争议。“我的建议是，不要理会人们对自己的说法：我还记得有一段时间我迷恋朋克风格，所以我穿上浑身带铆钉的黑色衣服。有一次一个老人坐在我旁边，我从眼神可以看出他很反感我的着装。甚至在今天，我的母亲还不能接受我的风格。但是如果你在乎别人对你的看法，你会永远达不到自己的目标。” 除了要敢于追逐自己的梦想之外，梁衍奇的毅力也是其成功的另外一个要素。在 2008 年，他开始每天都记录自己的着装，并且在 38 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

互联网上分享自己的时尚心得。“在那个时候，Lady Gaga 和亚历山大 ·麦昆都非常走红，备受追捧；他们给了我的博客写作很多灵感。这个博客帮助我取得大众的关注度，也给我更多接单的机会。就算澳门没有很多人关注我，我也没打算过放弃。” 归功于他的坚持不懈，在 2014 年梁衍奇终于获得了一张进入时装圣殿——伦敦时装周和巴黎时装周——的入门券。“时装周之类的活动是我一直热衷参加的活动，”他这样说。 “我非常喜欢参加时装周，所以我绞尽脑汁

ashion fans who follow the local fashion news might have the impression of an Asian boy with bushy eyebrows and edgy outfits who always appears at industry events in Macau, Hong Kong, and even at London Fashion Week, Paris Fashion Week and Seoul Fashion Week. He is Inky Leong, a fashion enthusiast, fashion blogger, boutique operator and fashion brand founder. Leong grew up in Macau, and under the influence of his mother in childhood started to take an interest in attire. “I was seeing my mum dressing up and went shopping with her, so I loved clothing and have paid attention to my style since then. So, when I was 16 years old I went to a fashion shop which was the most popular and trendy brand at that time.” At that time, however, fashion stores were not in the market for hiring male sales assistants, but this did not stop Leong striving for his love. “I really wanted to work in that shop,” said Leong, “because the brand was the hottest in Hong Kong and Macau. Even though it seemed there was no chance I still wanted to try. I brought my CV to meet the manager, and he said they did not want to hire male sales [staff] but never mind, [he could] still could give me a chance for an interview. So I presented all my passion about this job and fashion. The manger was impressed by me, so he broke the rule and hired me. This is the starting point of my fashion career.” After stepping into his favourite industry, Leong found that this colourful endeavour is even more interesting than he imagined and had a better reason to dress up himself. Men who liked dressing up at that time were always controversial. ”My advice is not to care about what people say: I remember there was a time I indulged in punk style, so I wore all black with

Essential FASHION

澳门精华 | 2017年 8月- 9月 | 39

Essential FASHION

也要挤进去。我收集到自己所有跟时装有关的博客和图片，然后发给伦敦时装周的主办方。很幸运地，他们深受打动，并且给我推荐品牌，然后我就如愿以偿地拿到了邀请函。” 从此之后，梁衍奇就经常性地代表澳门现身国际舞台。 “收到邀请我感到非常兴奋；到达秀场的时候，我感觉到找到了失散

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已久的家人。去那里参加活动的人仿佛都有相同的基因：我们都热爱时装，我们也不在乎活动期间人们对自己的评价。但是最美妙的是，我可以在全世界的舞台上代表自己的家乡——澳门。” 梁衍奇对时装的热情并不局限于为自己打响名声。他更能够希望在澳门推动时装业

rivets. An old man who was sitting beside me on the bus. I can still remember his eyes were saying he hated my style. Even today, my mum still doesn’t accept my style. But if you care about what people think, you may never achieve your goal.” Apart from being brave enough to chase your dream, for Leong persistence is another key to success. He started to record his everyday outfit and share his fashion tips on the Internet in 2008. “At that time, Lady Gaga and Alexander McQueen were so popular; they gave me a lot of inspiration to write my blog. This blog helps me to attract some attention from the public, and it also brings me more job opportunities. Even though not many people in Macau read my articles I never think of giving up.” Thanks to his tenacity, in 2014 Leong finally secured a ticket to the Meccas of fashion London Fashion Week and Paris Fashion Week. “Fashion weeks are the events I always yearned to join,” he said. “I was so eager to join Fashion Week so I racked my brains to find a way. I collected all my fashion relevant blogs and photos and sent them to the organiser of London Fashion week. Fortunately, they were struck by me, so they recommend me to brands and I got the invitation as I wished.” Since then, Leong frequently appears on international platforms to represent Macau. “I was so excited to be invited; when I went there, I felt like I had found my long lost family. People who were there had the same DNA; we love fashion and we don’t have to care about people’s adjustment during the events. But what was even more fantastic was that I could represent my hometown of Macau to people from all over the world.” Leong’s passion for fashion is more than the building up of his personal reputation. He wants to cultivate the fashion industry in Macau. His two outlets - Inky Store and Inky

Essential FASHION

发展。他的两个系列：Inky Store 和 Inky Store 2 都是出于这个想法而推出。Inky Store 是一个结合时装、生活方式、旅游和音乐艺术的服装精品店。它提供来自全球各地的潮流服饰、专业的形象设计服务，旨在为澳门的时装文化注入更多新元素。 “很多人都问我，为什么要开一间女性服饰店。坦白说，这是为了降低风险，因为首先，（运营）一间男性时装店在澳门在当前比较难以生存。很多人认为澳门欠缺时装的购买力。但是我总是觉得任何事情都是可能的。比如，很多年前我最喜欢的品牌 Vivienne Westwood 在澳门都没有专卖店。” “以前如果我想购买该品牌产品，我要去香港。但是有一天当我看报纸时，我看到了它的招聘广告，因为它要在澳门开店了。在我看来，我觉得澳门人身上很有潜质。因为在我的店里，你可以看到很多具有戏剧性的物品，你很难猜到谁在澳门会买这些饰品。但是我看到这些物品往往很快就抢购一空。相比之下，休闲服装反而没那么受欢迎。” 除了自己的时装店之外，梁衍奇也跟澳门设计师 Kris Chan 合作，在 2016 年推出原创品牌 I.N.K.， “I.N.K.象征着创意想象力就像水墨那样泼洒而出。我们可以综合澳门的历史、艺术、文化和音乐，去向世界展示澳门独特并且具有生命力的时装文化。为了让更多人认识时装，我们的产品不但非常具有设计特色，而且非常容易搭配；我们推出了很多 T 恤和连帽卫衣，还有其他实用性产品。我们的品牌已经亮相 2017 年深圳时装周，并且引起轰动。” 从分享个人爱好，到为整个城市打造服装行业，梁衍奇的故事告诉我们要有足够的勇气，并且永不说不。“有人觉得澳门是一个没有梦想的城市。可是我并不同意这个说法。正是因为澳门缺少很多东西，我们面临的机会才是巨大的。只要我们敢于梦想，并为之拼搏，什么都有可能，”梁衍奇如是说。 쐽

Store 2 - were nurtured by this idea. Inky Store is a clothing boutique with a combination of fashion, lifestyle, travel, and music art. It provides trendy apparel from around the world and a professional image building service, hoping to inject more elements into Macau’s fashion culture. “Many people asked me why I opened a store to sell female outfits. Honestly, it was to reduce the risk at first, because [running a] male clothing store [made it] hard to survive in Macau at that time. Many people think Macau

doesn’t have the purchasing power for Fashion. But I always say anything is possible. For example, many years ago, my favorite brand Vivienne Westwood didn’t have a store in Macau. “If I wanted to buy its products, I had to go to Hong Kong. But one day when I was reading the newspaper, I found their recruitment ad and they opened a store in Macau. For me, I think Macau people have a lot of potential. Because in my store, you can find many drama items which you never know who will buy in Macau. But what surprises me is that those items are always sold out very soon. Compared to that casual clothing is less popular.” In addition to his fashion store, Leong collaborated with Macau designer Kris Chan to launch original fashion brand-I.N.K in 2016, saying: “I.N.K represents outpouring inspiration just like ink. We combine Macau’s history, art, culture and music together to show Macau’s unique and vibrant fashion to the world. In order to let more people know about fashion, our products are not only stylish but easymatching; we have a lot of T-shirts, hoodies and other practicable items. Our brand has already appeared in 2017 Shenzhen Fashion Week and made a hit.” From sharing personal hobbies to building the industry in this city, Leong’s story tells us to be brave enough to dream big and never say never. “Some people say Macau is a city without a dream. But I don’t agree with that. Because Macau lacks many things we have more opportunities to succeed. As long as we dare to dream and keep striving for it, nothing is impossible,” Leong concluded. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2017年 8月- 9月 | 41

Essential TRENDS

秋冬新奢尚 Luxury is the new trend 七月份属于富有梦幻色彩的高端定制时装。从华美的布料到充满生命力的设计款式，高端订制时装系列都充满了多样化的创意。巴黎再次成为时装创意的最瞩目舞台，这次呈现的是秋冬系列 July is the month of dreamy haute couture. From beautiful fabrics to exuberant designs, the Haute Couture collections embrace creative diversity. Once again, Paris is the stage of the most stunning fashion creations, this time with the autumn/winter seasons in mind 文/by CATARINA VASQUES RITO

奢

Chanel

42 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

华风格由普罗大众塑造及推动，灵感来自世界上各大城市的街头。秋冬系列带来不同材质和尺寸的混搭，营造出生机勃发和充满诱惑力之感。荷兰设计双人组合 Viktor & Rolf 设计的大胆野性的系列，展示了时装的趣味性和街头智慧，其设计初衷是 “在充满创造性、多样性和生态意识的世界里 ”达致民族风格大融和。在走秀场上，模特们戴上巨大的娃娃头套，套上经过独特设计的麻质短夹克，搭配牛仔裤和 Dr. Martens 皮靴。 Jean-Paul Gaultier 的走秀场场景模拟滑雪世界及其周边的奢华度假屋，重现最近去世的占士邦魅力巨星 Roger Moore 主演的电影场景。这位在法国乃至全球时装界都以桀骜不驯著称的设计大师一直是奢华生活方式和滑雪运动的爱好者，他也为那些享受此项精英运动的爱好者们想出不少好的时装点子，但他也清楚如何把更加随意的作品带到巴黎，这些作品由缎子、丝绸和羊毛布

he dynamic of luxury is made by the masses, inspired by the streets of the world’s biggest cities. The autumn/winter season brings mixtures of textures and volumes, and the result couldn’t be more exuberant or seductive. The bold collection from Dutch duo Viktor&Rolf shows that fashion is all about fun and a streetwise attitude, conceived for an ethnic mélange “in a world that’s creative, diverse and eco-conscious”, according to the brand’s designers and mentors. The catwalk saw the models wearing giant dolls heads and dressed in special bomber jackets, made from linen and matched with jeans and Dr Martens. The catwalk setting of Jean-Paul Gaultier was allusive to the skiing world and its luxury resorts, re-creating the scenery of the charismatic 007 films starring the recently deceased Roger Moore. The eternal enfant terrible of French (and global) fashion is an unashamed admirer of luxury and skiing and has created

Jean-Paul Gaultier 澳门精华 | 2017年 4月第 - 5月第 | 43

Essential TRENDS

Armani Prive

料制成，色调鲜明大胆，比如鲜明的金黄色和黑色底色上点缀着泼洒的红色。至于 Chanel 则一如既往地在巴黎大皇宫里面走秀发布新系列，场内搭建了一个 38 米高的埃菲尔铁塔模型，明显地老佛爷 Karl Lagerfeld 借此向巴黎这个“光之城”致敬。参与演出的美国歌手 Katy Perry 感到“无比震撼”，还曾经一度认为他们专门帮老佛爷买下了整个巴黎铁塔呢。当然，事实是巴黎不会把自己最经典的地标卖给老佛爷的，但是巴黎市市长 Anne Hidalgo 在发布活动结束时，给老佛爷颁发巴黎市最高荣耀奖项大银奖奖章（La Medaille Grand Vermeil），以表彰这位设计巨星的独特想象力和天赋。“巴黎爱你！你 44 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Maison Martin Margiela

perfect ideas for those who enjoy the elite sport, but the designer also knows how to bring indiscreet pieces to the city, made of fabrics such as satin, silk and wool, in audacious colours such as bright yellow gold and black with splashes of red. In the case of Chanel, the presentation took place once again at the Grand Palais, with a 38metre version of the Eiffel Tower a clear homage to the City of Light on behalf of Karl Lagerfeld. One of the guests, American singer Katy Perry, admitted she felt “overwhelmed”, and for a moment thought they had bought the Eiffel Tower for the German designer. The truth is that

Paris didn’t give Lagerfeld its most iconic building, but at the end of the show, the city’s mayor Anne Hidalgo awarded Lagerfeld the city’s highest honour, La Medaille Grand Vermeil, recognising the extraordinary imagination and genius of the designer. “Paris loves you. You are Paris,” she said. The haute couture collection from the French brand revisited the tradition of the maison, showcasing the true talent of the artisans that work at the Chanel atelier – timeless pieces adapted to modern day, perfect to wear at any time of day and for all occasions. With the Italian designer Maria Grazia Chiuri (ex-Valentino) now at the helm, Christian Dior

Elie Saab

Valentino

Chanel

Jean-Paul Gaultier

Essential TRENDS 就是巴黎！”，女市长这样说。这个法国品牌的高定服装今年的主题回归品牌的经典传统，展现了 Chanel 工作室艺匠的高超工艺，这些永不过时的经典之作经匠心调适后完全贴合现代生活，可以在全天候任何场合穿戴。曾经在 Valentino 工作的意大利设计师 Maria Grazia Chiuri 目前正处于事业顶峰，她为 Christian Dior 展示的时装系列受二战后的风尚启发。Dior 高级灰是整个系列的最大亮点，该系列采用了传统的男式裁剪工艺，再加上一些女性化的剪裁处理，从而造就了这些款式，让热爱旅行的女冒险家们深深着迷。电视剧《权力的游戏》对于 Elie Saab 来说是一种灵感来源，这部剧明显在暗喻男权帝国的崩溃造就的女性权力上升。这时装系列犹如充满诱惑力的游戏，连衣裙修长又飘逸，胸前大开口或深开口设计，非常“慷慨”大胆。老佛爷再一次用 Fendi 系列那种独特细腻的高超手艺和独到的创意美——结合了这位德国设计大咖的创意美学和此意大利品牌的艺匠精神——让所有人感到惊喜。在即将来临的秋冬季里，“精致 ”将是形容 Fendi 最有趣款式的最佳词汇。尽管秋冬季节天色灰暗寒冷，但是这些单品却色彩丰富，富有浪漫格调，通过花朵和其他精致的细节，为充满自信又无比精致的女性打造完美形象。巴黎的时装舞台上还有很多非常惊艳的设计作品，其中值得一提的还包括 Valentino， Armani Privé 和 Alexandre Vauthier 等设计师。我们接下来要做的就是在其中挑一件，然后穿上身在世界各大城市“傲”游街头！ 쐽 Alexandre Vauthier

Fendi

Christian Dior

Viktor & Rolf

presented a collection inspired by post-World War II. The Dior grey was the big star, in pieces made from the tradition of men’s tailoring and adapted to a feminine cut. The result appeals to the female explorer who loves to travel. The television series Game of Thrones was the inspiration for Elie Saab, with a clear allusion to the fall of a patriarchal empire to enhance the power of the woman. It was an unusual game of seduction, with long, floaty dresses and more than generous cleavage and slits. Once more, Lagerfeld surprised everyone with the Fendi collection, with delicate and detailed workmanship representative of the creative beauty of both the German designer and the professionals of the Italian maison. Refinement is the word that best describes the most interesting Fendi pieces to wear next autumn/winter. Despite the cold, grey days, the pieces are colourful and completely romantic, with flowers and other delicate applications creating the perfect setting for a self-assured yet simultaneously delicate woman. So many other stunning ideas took to the catwalk across the city of Paris, with highlights including Valentino, Armani Privé and Alexandre Vauthier. Now all we have to do is choose one and strut along the streets of any city in the world! 쐽 澳门精华 | 2017年 8月- 9月 | 47

清爽时尚 Chilled appearance

摄影、摄影助理 PHOTOGRAPHY PEDRO FERREIRA ASSISTED BY ANA VIEGAS 造型、造型助理 STYLING SUSANA MARQUES PINTO (WWW.PULPFASHION.PT) ASSISTED BY MARIA NOBRE TAVARES 化妆 MAKE-UP PATRICK VAN DEN BERG (WWW.SKINLIFE.PT) WITH BY TERRY PRODUCTS（化妆用品：By Terry）发型设计 HAIR MADALENA DIAS COSTA FOR GRIFFEHAIRSTYLE WITH L'ORÉAL PROFESSIONEL PRODUCTS（美发用品：L'Óreal Profesionnel）模特 MODEL ALEXANDRA NEFEDOVA (WE ARE MODELS)

连衣裙 Dress: 汤姆·福特 Tom Ford 鞋履 Shoes: 巴黎世家 Balenciaga 项链 Necklace: David Rosas 太阳镜 Sunglasses: 芬迪 Fendi

连衣裙 Dress: 浪凡 Lanvin 胸针、手镯 Brooches and bracelet: David Rosas

大衣 Coat: Diogo Miranda 耳环、戒指 Earrings and ring: Monseo

大衣 Jacket: Diogo Miranda 长裤 Trousers: 华伦天奴 Valentino 项链 Necklaces: David Rosas 太阳镜 Sunglasses: 芬迪 Fendi

连衣裙 Dress: Céline 耳环、项链 Earrings and necklace: Machado Joalheiro 手镯 Bracelet: David Rosas

全套装扮 All: Machado Joalheiro

连衣裙 Dress: Diogo Miranda 手镯、耳环 Bracelet and earrings: Monseo

连衣裙 Dress: MSGM 戒指、耳环 Rings and earrings: Eleuterio

Essential BAZAAR

动感生活前卫的眼镜 Christian Roth 推出全新系列 Deconstructed Bauhaus。该系列太阳眼镜从品牌业已成为真正时尚风向标的经典款式吸取灵感，再以现代的方式重塑及演绎它们。系列中包括透镜镜片眼镜或经典的 6558 眼镜的复刻款式，以全新的物料和技术制成。该品牌于 80 年代初由 Christian Roth 和 Eric Domège 二人所创立，凭借其前卫风格创造了新一代前卫设计，将太阳眼镜带进一个全新境界。

崭新魅力钟表珠宝名家伯爵新近推出精品珠宝系列 Manchette Story。该系列由 10 只手镯组成，卓越地展现出其独特创意，透过精湛的金工匠艺凸显出闪耀璀璨的宝石。具创意的不对称效果、锡兰蓝宝石与哥伦比亚祖母绿所产生的色彩极其强烈的对比、以及富丽的图案等出色精髓，显露出瑞士品牌经年累月的专业知识。

Neo-glamour

Avant-garde eyewear The Deconstructed Bauhaus is the name of the new collection from Christian Roth. The sunglasses revisit the brand’s classic models that became true style icons, deconstructing them and reinterpreting them in a contemporary way. An example of that is the return of the lens-in-lens glasses or the great classic Series 6558, updated with new materials and new construction techniques. The eyewear brand, created in the early ‘80s by the duo Christian Roth and Eric Domège, marked an entire generation thanks to its avant-garde style and contributed to a new phase in the world of sunglasses. www.christianroth.com

Piaget recently presented its latest fine jewellery line Manchette Story. Comprising 10 bracelets, this collection excels in its unique creativity, emphasising the brilliance of the stones through artisanal work done in gold. The original asymmetric effects, the stunning combination of intense colours provided by the precious stones, such as Ceylon sapphire or Colombian emeralds, and the extravagant motifs are the stand-out features that reflect the know-how garnered over the years by the Swiss brand. www.piaget.com

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康斯登（Frédérique Constant）推出了三款非常适合女士日常生活佩戴的智能腕表。这款结合最先进技术与瑞士制表工艺的女士版智能腕表，具有经典外观，表盘以扭索雕纹装饰，采用罗马数字时标，而表盘面则饰以珍珠母。这款搭载 34mm 表壳的腕表，提供全钢表壳版本和配有镀玫瑰金表圈表壳版本，更设有睡眠和活动追踪以及来电和讯息通知功能。

For an active life Frédérique Constant has created a collection of three smartwatches, perfect for women’s everyday life. Combining state-of-the-art technology with the Swiss art of watchmaking, the ladies’ version of the Horological Smartwatch, with a classic appearance, features dials with guilloché embellishment, mother-of-pearl on the outside dial and applied Roman numeral indexes. With a 34mm case, in one version it is available entirely in steel, and in the other in steel with a rose gold-plated bezel. In terms of functions, the timepieces feature sleep and activity tracking, as well as notifications of incoming calls and text messages. www.frederiqueconstant.com

恒久真皮每个季度意大利品牌 Campomaggi 都会推出经典而且独特的作品，每一款都无惧岁月并能代代相传。在精湛古老的皮革技术处理下，镶铆钉皮包充分呈现出精湛美学态度和对细节的坚持。

Timeless leather Every season, the Italian brand Campomaggi presents timeless and unique pieces, resistant to time and able to be passed down from generation to generation. Drawing on age-old artisanal leather-treatment techniques, the leather bags with stud applications reveal an aesthetic full of attitude and incredible attention to detail. www.campomaggi.com

Essential BAZAAR

飞行主题书写工具

意式风情完美配搭伯莱士（Bell & Ross）最近新推出灵感源自于汽车领域的 BR03-94 AeroGT Orange 手表。此次新推的 500 只限量版，遵循去年品牌在自家构思的 AeroGT 概念汽车发布会后推出的首个红色版本的设计。这款富有现代感的计时手表嵌有两个分别显示小时和 30 分钟刻度的表盘，并在表盘中央设有显眼的秒针和一个转速表。此外该款腕表于 3 点钟位置设有日期功能，配备荧光指针及 42mm 抛光及缎面打磨钢表壳和蓝宝石水晶开口表背。表带由多孔黑色小牛皮搭配橙色包边和超弹性合成织物制成。

Perfect alliance Bell & Ross has presented its latest model, completely inspired by the car world: the BR03-94 AeroGT Orange. Limited to 500 pieces, the watch follows the first red version, which was launched last year and after the presentation of the AeroGT concept-car that was conceived by the brand. The contemporary-looking chronograph presents two dials indicating the hours and the 30 minutes, a large hand in the centre with the seconds and a tachymeter scale. With a date function positioned at 3 o’clock and photoluminescent hands, the model features a 42mm polished and satin-finished steel case and a back with an opening in sapphire crystal. The strap is made of perforated black calfskin with orange piping and ultra-resilient synthetic fabric. www.bellross.com

意大利标志性品牌托德斯（Tod’s）和法拉利（Ferrari）携手演绎三款特别版鞋履：驾驶鞋、皮便鞋和运动鞋。其中，法拉利 Gommino 驾驶鞋以其多功用和优雅的风格脱颖而出，而 City Gommino 皮便鞋则淋漓尽致的展示了真正的 “意大利制造”休闲风格。至于法拉利 x 托德斯的运动鞋则以其设计和质量取胜，并特别突出红与黑之间的色彩碰撞。这三款鞋虽完全纯手工打造，但同样包含这两个卓越品牌的最新专利技术。

Italian spirit The two iconic Italian brands Tod’s and Ferrari have joined forces to present three special-edition footwear styles: driving shoes, loafers and sneakers. The Ferrari Gommino driving shoes stand out for their versatile and elegant style, while the City Gommino loafers reflect the true “Made in Italy” casual style. As for the Ferrari x Tod’s sneakers, design and quality prevail, emphasising the contrast between the red and the black. Made entirely by hand, these three models, however, don’t exclude the latest technology and the know-how of both houses. www.tods.com www.ferrari.com

作为“2017 年万宝龙大文豪系列” 的一部分，万宝龙向著名的法国作家和飞行员 Antoine de Saint-Exupéry 致敬。大文豪系列里，Antoine de Saint-Exupéry 特别版的灵感源自作者的其中一部作品《夜航》—— 一本以他作为航空邮件飞行员冒险为背景的一本小说。这款书写工具以重现了他飞机的设计——— Caudron Simoun———一款深蓝色的树脂笔芯，搭配强调航空主题的笔盖。该系列包含钢笔、滚珠笔、圆珠笔和自动铅笔款式（自动铅笔仅作为组合的一部分），此外它们的笔盖也刻有 Saint-Exupéry 的签名。不仅如此，品牌更推出另一版本，该版本只限量发售 1931 支钢笔，而 1931 正是小说首次出版的年份。在这个版本中，笔芯由复涂金属制成，具有黄铜效果，而笔盖则雕刻了作者的一幅自画像。

高档背包 Eastpak 推出最新的优质高端系列 ———LAB 系列：采用了创新设计与最新技术相结合的背包。除了采用顶级的材质，该品牌更精于细节，一丝不苟。量身定制的 LAB 是最为突出的系列之一，而 Trawel 则是其中亮点。这款黑色多用型背包，采用背包和旅行袋的混合设计，并设有两个主要的隔间、两个大容量内袋、一个带安全口袋的绗缝背袋，以及一个可存放笔记本电脑的软垫隔层，并配备橙色衬里。

Aviation mood As part of the Writers Montblanc Edition 2017, the maison pays tribute to the famous French writer and aviator Antoine de SaintExupéry. The Writers Edition Antoine de Saint-Exupéry Special Edition is inspired by one of the author’s works, Night Flight, a novel based on his adventures as an airmail pilot. With a format and design that evoke his plane – a Caudron Simoun –, this writing instrument reveals a deep-blue resin barrel and cap that enhances the aviation theme. Available as a fountain pen, a roller point, a ballpoint and a mechanical pencil (the latter only as part of the set), the caps are also engraved with Saint-Exupéry’s signature. Further to these models is another edition, available as a fountain pen and limited to 1931 pieces, a reference to the year the novel was first published. In this version, the barrel is made of retro-coated metal, giving it a brass effect, while the cap features an engraving of one of the writer’s self-portraits. www.montblanc.com

High-end backpack Eastpak has presented its new premium range – the LAB Collection – with backpacks that combine innovative design with the latest technology. Along with materials of the highest quality, the brand also excels in its meticulous attention to detail. Tailored LAB is one of the most prominent lines, with the highlight being the Trawel model. With a hybrid design that is a crossover of backpack and travel bag, this versatile model, available in black, comprises two main compartments, two large inside pockets, a quilted back with security pocket, a padded compartment for a laptop and orange lining. www.eastpak.com

澳门精华 | 2017年 8月- 9月 | 63

Essential BEAUTY

放胆宠爱让盛夏更火热，Dior 新推出名为“Care & Dare 放胆宠爱”系列产品，用至臻护肤精华带来最大胆的靓丽颜色。八款产品组成的大型系列，细致为您备齐完美夏日装扮的每款精品。 Dior 的唇膏粉们必将会爱上这款新”Care & Dare 放胆宠爱”魅惑唇膏系列，护唇精油令双唇美丽动人的同时保持润泽远离干燥，六个鲜艳色号使双唇在阳光下绽放迷人笑容。为提升性感双唇的丰满度，不可或缺的 Dior 魅惑丰唇蜜将让双唇莹润闪耀出一丝迷人的淡淡粉色。清爽而持久的粉底是酷暑皮肤的必需品。Dior 护肤轻透“放胆宠爱”系列和 Dior 水凝光影液不仅能赋予肌肤如被阳光亲吻过的自然亮泽，而且还能保护肌肤免受外部侵扰，如环境压力和污染。作为这系列的亮点之一，Dior 传奇的五色眼影以两个限量版色调组合，反映出“放胆宠爱”(Care & Dare spirit)的无畏精神，首次亮相为阳光海滩、古铜肤色和一浪接一浪的夏日色彩而喝彩。为丰富你的性感妆容，Diorshow Colour & Contour 系列的单色眼影及眼线笔组合将会为你施展塑造立体轮廓的好戏。没有耀眼色彩的指甲颜色难以称为完整的完美夏日装扮，在三种活力澎湃的色调中，Dior Vernis 将在你的手上点燃难以置信的色彩，让你在盛夏的阳光下光芒耀目。

Care & Dare Making a hot Summer even hotter, Dior launches a collection called The Care & Dare, which concentrates the best skincare ingredients to bring out the most daring colours. Comprising eight products, the collection is huge, although each product is necessary for perfect Summer makeup. Design for Dior lipstick fans will love the new Dior Addict Care & Dare Lipstick filled with lip care oil, keeping lips beautiful and preventing them from drying, while lighting up the smile with six essential sun-drenched shades. To make the lips fuller, the indispensable Dior Addict Lip Maximizer uses its volumising action to give the lips a touch of pink accents that sparkle. In the hot Summer, a light and long lasting foundation is mandatory; Diorskin Nude Air Care & Dare and Diorskin Nude Air Luminizer Serum not only offer natural radiance but also create a protective shield against external factors such as environmental stresses and pollution. As one of the highlights of this collection, this season’s 5 Couleurs reflects the Care & Dare spirit with two exclusive palettes that scream beach, tanned skin and splashes of a Summer’s day colour, premiered in this look. To enrich your makeup, Diorshow Colour & Contour and Diorshow Mono eyeshadow will help conjure up clear-cut eye makeup. A Summer look is not complete without edgy nail colour: available in three shades, the Dior Vernis ignites an incredible pop of colour on your hand.

迷恋口红女人永远都缺少一支口红。YSL 的唇部产品一直都是众多女士梦寐以求的心头所好。早于 2012 年生产的显色唇釉 VERNIS À LÈVRES，是点亮现代女士的一抹唇妆之光。2017 年新一代 VERNIS À LÈVRES 强势回归，它蕴含独一无二的革新配方 Lifeproof Colour Emulsion。于双唇之上，唇膏蒸发了的水润分子，与油滴汇聚形成强效樱唇保护膜，散发剔透光泽，持久显色。 The VERNIS À LÈVRES Primary Colour Edition 彩蜜唇色原色系列新推 15 款色号，为不同类型的女士提供更多样的色彩选择。为了释放现今女性的百变形象，品牌限量系列引入三款破格色调，紫红，电蓝和荧黄，与其他唇釉配合使用拥有更震撼唇色。此外彩蜜唇色家族新成员还有：来自 VERNIS À LÈVRES POP WATER 彩蜜唇色水漾系列的 4 款全新水漾色调，CLASSIC VERNIS À LÈVRES 彩蜜唇色经典系列的 5 款抢眼色调，以及 VERNIS À LÈVRES VINYL CREAM 彩蜜唇色漆亮系列 4 款魅惑色调，不同系列撞击出浓郁色彩，贴合你的彩妆需要。

Lipsticks addicted A woman can never have too many lipsticks. YSL lip products are always the desire of many women’s dreams. Born in 2012, VERNIS À LÈVRES is a gloss created for the modern day woman. In 2017, the original next generation formula returns –powered by its unique Lifeproof Colour Emulsion. Watery particles evaporate and droplets of oil unite to form a durable film of luminous, lasting colour. Available in 15 shades, the VERNIS À LÈVRES Primary Colour Edition offers a large range of colours for women of all stripes. In order to create a bolder, louder and stronger woman, the limited edition of Primary Colour VERNIS À LÈVRES shades - Magenta Amplifier, Blue Amplifier and Yellow Amplifier - provide the soundtrack to this burgeoning trend. Joining the shock effect of the collection are four new shades of VERNIS À LÈVRES POP WATER splashing lips with aquatic colour. Meanwhile, five fresh shades of CLASSIC VERNIS À LÈVRES join the family – and finally, four seductive takes on VERNIS À LÈVRES VINYL CREAM will rock out intense, caring colour.

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Essential BEAUTY

AQUA XL 系列彩妆

AQUA XL

知名化妆艺术品牌玫珂菲 Make Up For Ever 与著名 R&B 歌手 Kehlani 联手展开合作。乐迷和爱化妆人士都将发现这两款防水产品将化妆品的性能提升到新的水平。全新的 Aqua Xl Colour Paint （多功能彩色眼影膏）和 Aqua Xl Ink Liner （色彩丰富的眼线液）将迎接三个重要的挑战：高配色，高性能和超强持久度。灵感来自于真正的艺术家用的颜料，Make Up For Ever 更是进一步凸显品牌自我风格，推出了有 20 款色号的 AQUA XL COLOR PAINT（超持久显色眼彩霜），从裸色到鲜艳的糖果色，还有多种质地，如哑光，柔光和霓光等质地，轻松拥有超持久抗晕眼妆。为了完善这个系列，全新 AQUA XL INK LINER （超持久玩色眼线液）更是推出 15 款亮丽色调，从哑光到柔光质地，珠光和哑光质地，全部展现闪亮光泽，效果各异，方便配衬不同妆效场合。

Make Up For Ever joins hands with Kehlani. Music and makeup enthusiasts alike will discover two waterproof products taking the limits of makeup performance to new levels. Introducing Aqua Xl Colour Paint and Aqua Xl Ink Liner, the products to meet three major challenges: impact, precision and endurance. Inspired by actual artists’ paints, Make Up For Ever takes its franchise a step further with the launch of AQUA XL COLOR PAINT presenting 20 XL shadow shades, from nude to flashy colours, with a variety of finishes such as matte, lustrous and iridescent. To perfect this collection, the new AQUA XL INK LINER features 15 XL shades from matte to lustrous, diamond and metallic, with a luminous finish.

吉米·周香水

Jimmy Choo L’EAU

英国高端品牌 Jimmy Choo 吉米·周 2017 年夏隆重推出 Jimmy Choo L’EAU 香水。这款香水散发出如清晨沾着露水的芙蓉花香甜的香氛，唤醒 Jimmy Choo 女士们的感官，提升出纯粹又微妙的美好感受。这款完美的花香型果味调的女用香水，前调是芙蓉花和香柠檬，中调是桃驳李和牡丹，基调则是雪松和麝香。调香师 Juliette Karagueuzoglour 热切的赞扬这款香水，“Jimmy Choo L’EAU 捕捉到那种美味解渴的芙蓉花与树皮、水果和充满活力的木香混合后的香氛，花香馥郁，果香清新和木香的沉稳，营造出了女性光芒四射的迷人性感。” 灵感源自威尼斯的慕拉诺玻璃，香水瓶的形状设计为蚕茧状，将彩虹般光彩变幻的香水呵护其中，如少女般梦幻。这款优雅的粉色细长瓶顶部有一个淡粉色的 3D 立方体，以金属镀边，为奢华的设计增添了一抹现代感。Jimmy Choo 的签名标在飘逸的浅粉色蛇皮纹上，在外包装上显得十分耀眼夺目。

British high end brand Jimmy Choo proudly launches the Jimmy Choo L’EAU in Summer 2017. This fragrance is a sensual evocation of the Jimmy Choo woman with pure and subtle notes heightened by hibiscus flower. The perfect Summer scent is floral and fruity with Bergamot, Hibiscus Flower, Nectarine, Peony, Cedarwood and Musks. “Jimmy Choo L’EAU captures the scent of a delicious thirst-quenching hibiscus flower blended with barks, fruits and vibrant woods, to create a radiant feminine sensuality,” enthused Perfumer Juliette Karagueuzoglou. Inspired by Venetian Murano glass, a cocoon shaped bottle encases the iridescent liquid within. The elegant pink slender bottle is topped with a pale pink 3D cube with metallic gilded edges, adding a touch of modernity to the luxurious design. The signature of Jimmy Choo - which is an ethereal pale pink snakeskin print – is evident on the outer part of the packaging.

随《澳门精华》探索时装秀后台立体妆容秘诀英国大牌 Burberry 延续其核心美妆哲学，隆重推出轻松上手的 The Essentials 彩妆系列，囊括妆前打底、修容与高光系列产品。The Essentials 彩妆系列，包括了品牌标志性的自然亮彩底妆、明亮高光搭配立体塑颜以凸显脸部轮廓；再配以完美裸色唇妆，打造出迷人妆容。系列的主打产品是 Burberry 丝柔珠光高光彩盘。该款产品有四色可选，质地轻薄，珠光粉末细腻丝滑并配有精致动人的蕾丝图案设计。只需用半透明的粉末扫过面部需要提亮处就可打造出自然妆感。从时装秀后台化妆技巧汲取灵感，该系列推出全新妆前修饰丰唇笔，该款裸色妆前唇笔用于勾勒唇型，营造自然饱满丰唇。此外，该系列还包括 Burberry 丝柔珠光亮彩笔， Burberry 丝柔珠光亮彩饰底液和 Burberry 面部修颜笔。

Going backstage with The Essentials British brand Burberry continues its core make-up philosophy – prime, contour and highlight and design an effortless beauty collection - The Essentials. The Essentials comprises signature products that create a glowing complexion, sculptured features with subtle, flattering highlights - and the perfect nude lip. Leading the collection is Burberry Fresh Glow Highlighter. Available in four shades, this lightweight and illuminating powder is set with an intricate lace-pattern design. Just sweep the pearly, translucent powder across areas of the face where light would naturally hit. Inspired by backstage make-up techniques, this collection introduces a new member - the Lip Colour Contour, a nude pen to prime, contour and shape for naturally fuller-looking lips. Burberry Fresh Glow Highlighting Luminous Pen, Burberry Fresh Glow Luminous Fluid Base and Burberry Face Contour complete the collection. 澳门精华 | 2017年 8月- 9月 | 65

Essential ART

探索 “ 都市世界” 复杂多面性 Exploring the complexities of ‘urbania’ 葡萄牙天才艺术家 V h i ls 在澳门首次举办个人展览，以独特又具有突破性的技巧探索澳门城市的不同层面 Talented Portuguese artist Vhils opens his first solo exhibition in Macau to explore the layers of this city via his unique, groundbreaking skills

PHOTO: VERA MARMELO

文/by EDWINA LIU

最

近城中的热门话题莫过于在氹仔村以及中区展出的四面独特壁画了，这些壁画给参观者带来强烈的吸引力。这些别开生面的作品属于 “瓦砾 — — 亚历山大 ·法图作品展 ”展览上 20 件展现澳门城市生活的艺术品的一部分。 “瓦砾 ”正在海事工房 1 房当代艺术中心展出，是广受好评的葡萄牙艺术家亚历山大 ·法图（又称 Vhils）在澳门的首次个展。在葡萄牙首都里斯本市郊出生的 Vhils 这样回忆自己小时候所住的城市经历的如火如荼的城市化发展。“我年纪很小的时候就开始涂鸦生涯。在我出生的地方，街道的变化很大。到了我 16 岁的时候，我对自己的创作感到厌倦，于是我开始研究（我身处的环境）。我仍然记得在墙上第一次看到政

ecently, the hottest issue in this city has been four unique murals in Old Taipa Village - and the city centre - which attracted great attention from all who saw them. These special art pieces are part of the ‘Debris -Worls by Alexandre Farto aka Vhils’ exhibition featuring more than 20 works inspired by Macau urban life. ‘Debris’ - currently taking place at Navy Yard No. 1- Contemporary Art Centre - is the first solo exhibition of critically acclaimed Portuguese artist Alexandre Farto AKA Vhils in Macau. Vhils - born in the suburbs of Lisbon, the capital of Portugal - recalls that in his childhood the city was undergoing intense urban development. “I started my work as a graffitist when I was very young. In the place I was born, there were a lot of things happening in the street. When I was 16, I was getting bored doing what

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PHOTO: ANDRÉ SANTOS

Essential ART

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PHOTO: FERNANDO GUERRA

Essential ART

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PHOTO: STANLEY CHENG

Essential ART

治壁画的时候的感受。当时葡萄牙正在经历（四二五）革命，政治壁画到处都是。” “我当时就察觉到，里斯本这座城市自己内部有很多层次。从 70 年代的革命政治壁画到街道对面的消费品广告牌，就好像在同一个地方有两套系统在互为抗衡。在 90 年代，人们开始在广告牌上创作涂鸦。当我创作涂鸦的时候，我其实也在添加表层。在这个时候，我开始询问自己，我为什么只满足于添加层次？于是我开始孕育另外一个主意：我先把表层涂白，然后雕刻画出同一座城市里面人们的脸孔，用以反映我们受周围环境的一切因素影响。” 为了增進自己的技艺，Vhils 在 2007 年还专门搬到伦敦，在那里最好的艺术大学—— 中央圣马丁设计与艺术学院进修。 “大学基本上教会了我如何探索一些古典的技法，这些技法都是我感兴趣的。但是我大部分的创作和围绕环境的试验，都是在学校或者大学之外完成的，这些创作和试验大部分是在城市环境之下探索和创作，并且同时我也学习如何跟城市环境互动，如何对它作出回应。在市区户外的探索和创作过程中，我交到很多艺术家朋友，他们都对我帮助很大。我探索新的技能，并且学到很多实际的东西，这也驱动我进行现在所从事的创作。” 还在上大学的时候，Vhils 就因为其与别不同而具有突破性的雕刻技法和当代艺术创作而闻名世界。所以在英国完成了两年的大学学习之后，他开始了周游世界之旅。 “我收到了很多画廊和艺术节的邀请函，然后我开展了不同的项目，并且也创立了一个工作室，当然是跟朋友搞的。现在，这个工作室有近 30 人了。”到目前为止，Vhils 在全世

I was doing, so I started to research [my environment]. I still remember when I first saw a political mural on the wall. Because we had a revolution at that time, there were political murals everywhere. “I noticed that there were lots of layers within the city of Lisbon, from murals of the revolution that we had in the 70’s to billboards selling consumer goods on the other side of the street, so it was almost like two different systems were confronting each other in the same place. People started to do graffiti on the walls in the 90’s on top of the ads. I was doing graffiti so I was adding the layering. At that point, I started to question why I was just adding? I started with an idea, instead of adding to it I painted everything white and then I carved images of portraits of people in the same city to reflect that we are affected by everything that surrounds us.” To improve his skills, Vhils moved to London and studied at the best art university - Central Saint Martins - in 2007. “University basically enabled me to explore a range of classical techniques I was interested in learning, but most of my work and the experimentation surrounding it was achieved outside school or university, mainly in exploring and working in the urban environment and learning how to interact with it and how to respond to it. I made a lot of artist friends there. They helped me a lot. I explored new techniques and learned a lot of practical things there. That really pushed me to do what I’m doing.”

While studying at university, Vhils started to become globally recognised for his unique groundbreaking carving technique and contemporary art pieces. Thus, after two years of studying in the UK, he set out on his travels around the world. “I received a lot of invitation from galleries and festivals, and then I started different projects and I also started a small studio - with friends, naturally - and now the studio has almost 30 people.” To date, Vhils has presented his work in some 86 locations in over 30 countries around the world, spanning a variety of projects and contexts. He has created 220 pieces alone in the scope of his pivotal ‘Scratching the Surface’ project - in which Vhils uses his bas-relief carving technique to create large-scale compositions on public walls. “When I arrive at a place, I have to understand the history and the people. I have a strong relationship with each place: I have a strong memory of all the projects. Now I am living in Hong Kong. Because I come from a place where there is no urban place, I want to live in a city. Hong Kong is an exclusive city. There’s a lot of contrast in this city. I’m fascinated with this city. Visually, for my work, it is the concept; it is very interesting to immerse [oneself] in Hong Kong. It gives me much inspiration.” Vhils’ show in Hong Kong was listed by CNN as one of ‘2016’s most visually inspiring moments,’ but it didn’t make him complacent. “I feel very proud. But I don’t lose [sight of] the mission; my mission is not only to get those prizes.” 澳门精华 | 2017年 8月- 9月 | 69

PHOTO: FERNANDO GUERRA

Essential ART

界超过 30 个国家 86 个地点展出过自己的作品，在各种各样的环境下展出不同的项目。单单是为了他的核心项目“划破表面”，他就创作了 220 多件作品。在这个项目中，Vhils 还使用他的浅浮雕技法在公共空间的墙上创作大型作品。 “当我到达一个地方的时候，我要理解当地的历史和人群。我跟每个所到之处都有强烈的纽带：所有的项目在我脑海中都留下深刻印象。现在我居住在香港，因为我来自一个没有被城市化的地方，所以我想住在城市里。香港是一个很特别的城市。城市里面充满反差，对此我感到非常着迷。视觉上，我作品的意念就是香港。把自己融入香港是非常有趣的，给了我很多灵感。” Vhils 在香港的展出被 CNN 列为 “2016 年最有视觉启发性的时刻之一 ”，但是这并没有让他沾沾自喜。“我感到非常自豪。但是我不会失去自己的人生目标。我的目标并不是为了拿这些奖项。”

全球项目，本土墙壁

带着自己的目标，Vhils 来到了澳门。Vhils 跟澳门之间的故事，在 2016 年年底开始，当时他受到葡萄牙驻香港总领事馆和葡萄牙商会的邀请，来澳门为葡萄牙驻澳门总领 70 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

事馆创作一幅歌颂著名葡国诗人卡梅洛· 彼山耶的壁画。 “碎片 ”是这份委任创作在更宽广语境下的一种延伸，它旨在反映时间与历史、建设与拆卸之间的交汇，这种交汇造就了层层叠叠的作品，它们象征着人类生存条件的浓缩小宇宙，置于对形塑澳门自身身份极其重要的动态刺激当中的那个小宇宙。在“碎片”的第二个演化阶段，Vhils 运用他高超娴熟的雕刻技法，以及富有创意的墙上爆破技术，在墙壁、广告牌、木头、纸张和发泡胶（泡沫塑料）上呈现令人震撼的作品。Vhils 在澳门的展览，除了展示他以从澳门街头收集的海报拼凑而成的广告牌新作，以及在捡来的门上创作的门雕和在澳门街头抓拍的全新慢动作视频，还展出一些选自香港展览的作品。通过创作刻画肖像，Vhils 旨在为他的描绘对象提供荣格的“心理分析”理论工具去探寻自己的身份——帮助他们在一个全球化的语境里找到自己的个体身份，并且考究城市化环境对于他们自身身份的影响。每件作品仿佛如同一个时间点的瞬间石化，艺术家希望自己呈现的这个独特时间点，在未来能被视作是人类历史里的一个关键时刻。我之所以选择在澳门开一个展览，是为了在澳门和香港之间建立起联系。有些作品

GLOBAL PROJECTS, LOCAL WALLS Continuing his mission, Vhils came to Macau. The story of Vhils and Macau started at the end of 2016, when he was invited by the Consulate General of Portugal and Hong Kong and Casa de Portugal to create a mural of celebrated Portuguese poet Camilo Pessanha for the Portuguese Consulate in Macau. Extending the commission to a broader context, ‘Debris’ intends to reflect on the convergence of time and history, construction and demolition, arriving at layered compositions that embody a microcosm of the human condition, positioned within the dynamic stimuli imperative to Macau’s identity. For the second iteration of ‘Debris,’ Vhils uses his masterly carving skills and unique creating method using explosives on walls to present his fantastic works on walls, billboards, wood, paper and styrofoam. Parallel to works on display from the Hong Kong exhibition are new billboard pieces, made from posters gathered from the streets of Macau, alongside new door carvings on doors collected in the region, and a new slow-motion capture video of Macau’s streets.

Essential ART 是从香港带过来的，有些则是在澳门创作。我想做的就是为两个地方建立起纽带。我要探索的是，是什么使它们有差别却又如此接近。每一个地方都有自己的层次和历史。我的创作则旨在挖掘出墙壁和门那层层层叠叠的表面。 “显而易见，澳门跟香港和其他城市很不一样。不同的历史背景造就不同的故事。我们的城市生活变得越来越相像，比如说我们的日常生活规律。这个展览的意念始于香港和澳门，之后还会延伸到其他不同的地方。在这个项目完结的时候，我们会得出不同城市的不同观照——它们的故事会完全不一样，然而当中也会有某些联系。这是我希望做的东西。此外我也想让人们反思这个世界的组织方式，以及全球化带来的冲击。 “我们处在一个非常有趣的时代。我们对彼此之间越来越熟悉。这个展览并不仅存于画廊里，还会走到街上。墙壁汇聚这座城市的不同层次和故事。对于我来说，在公共空间创作非常重要。我希望我的展出能够让人们思考城市化、全球化和城市生活发展带来的冲击。” 쐽

In creating portraits, the artist seeks to give his subjects the tools for their identity in the sense of Jung’s school of analytic psychology assisting the subject to assure their individuality in a global world and reflect on the impact of the urban environment on their identity. Each work is presented as a fossil capturing a specific moment in time, a moment which the artist hopes will be viewed in the future as a consequential juncture in human history. “The reason I choose to have an exhibition in Macau is to create a bridge between Hong Kong and Macau. Some of the works are from Hong Kong, some from Macau. What I want to do is [construct] a bridge between the two places. What it is that makes them different but also what makes them closer. Each place has its own layers and history. My work is about digging out the layers of the doors and walls. “Obviously, Macau is very different from Hong Kong and other cities. Different back-

grounds makes different stories. Our urban life is more and more similar, like out daily routine. The idea of this show started in Hong Kong and Macau, and then it will travel to different places. I will add new artwork from that new place. We will use the doors we collect from there and make the portrait come from there. By the end of this project, we will get a reflection of different cities - from completely different stories but we can still find some connection. That’s what I want to do. I also want to make people reflect on the impact of the organisation of the world and the globalisation of the world. “We’re in a very interesting place. We are more similar to each other. The exhibition is not restricted to the gallery but also [exists] in the street. The walls capture the layers and the stories of the city. For me, it’s important to work with the public space. I hope my exhibition can make people think about the impact of urbanisation, globalisation and urban life development.” 쐽

PHOTO: ALEXANDRE FARTO

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意韵灵动的线条 Another line of thought 书法渊远流长，享有三千多年历史，乃是中国人最珍重的视觉艺术，而汉字更是全世界最古老的文字系统之一 Calligraphy, or the art of writing, is the visual art form prized above all others in traditional China. Chinese calligraphy originated from over 3,000 years ago but the characters used in writing are the oldest in the world 文/by EDWINA LIU

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Essential WRITING

随

着时间的递嬗，书法字体逐渐由简转繁，从平滑柔顺到垂直方正，再转为行云流水，各色风格尽显。然而，汉字对称之美，亘古不变。是故，中国书法并非单纯的文字记录，而是展现形体美韵的艺术。汉字书法共有七种字体风格。然而，除了甲骨文与钟鼎文（铭文），现代中国书法分成下列五种书体。

篆书

篆书有大篆和小篆之分。大篆是最古老的中国文字（周宣王期间系统化），乃篆刻于石头之上。小篆创始于秦始皇在位期间，由丞相李斯奏请简化秦国籀文（大篆的一种），制定出标准化的小篆，然后广为推行，通令全国使用。这种远古的汉字书体，字划粗细一致，运笔圆转滑顺。

隶书

为了提高书写效率，秦人化圆转为方折，创造出隶书，使其展现更为「现代」的样貌。相较于小篆，隶书更加流畅，讲究「蚕头雁尾」，横画起头较圆，笔画藏锋，称为「蚕头」，末尾顿笔提锋，形如「雁尾」。

ypes of calligraphy evolved over time from simple to complex, from smooth to square-like to flowing. But one thing that has never changed is the aesthetic of symmetrical characters – which is why calligraphy is not only a record but an art. Chinese calligraphy has seven different types in total. However, apart from the Oracle and Bronze inscriptions the following five types of calligraphy are the most commonly practised ways of writing in modern times.

SEAL SCRIPT Seal Script has two different types, big Seal Script and small Seal Script. Big Seal Script is the oldest Chinese character, which was carved on stone. Seal Script was created during Emperor Qin Shi Huang’s reign. It was standardised and promulgated as a national standard by Li Si, Prime Minister under Qin Shi Huang. Uniform stroke thickness and rounded edges are the basic rules of this archaic form. CLERICAL SCRIPT In order to increase the speed of communication, people of the Qin Dynasty created a

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Essential WRITING

楷书

楷书，亦称正楷，是最常见的现代手写字体。楷书犹如其名，遵循「常规正道」，落笔缓慢谨慎，一笔一划都得提笔出峰，点撇勾捺各有不同。楷书创于汉朝，风行于三国，鼎盛于唐朝。

行书

行书是由隶书演变而成。相较于楷书，行书较少提笔出峰，让笔尖离开纸面，且字体较为圆缓柔和。王羲之为行书代表人物，千古以来，书法爱好者莫不竞相临摹其《兰亭序》。

草书

顾名思义，草书是「草率」书写而成。这种书体大量简化笔触，若无专业知识，万难窥其堂奥。即便识得行书，未经训练依旧无法辨认草书。草书看似毫无章法，行笔却有其规律。必需习得个中诀窍，方能掌控笔锋，跌宕起伏，运转自如，一气呵成。若想写一手飘逸奔放的草书，必先精通隶书，且经年累月刻苦习练，功力方能炉火纯青，挥毫时笔力遒劲，气势磅礡。 74 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

form that changed curves into strokes written at steeper angles, giving clerical script a more ‘modern’ appearance. Compared to Small Seal script, Clerical Script looks more flowing. The most significant characteristic of Clerical Script is that it requires thicknesses swept while writing the transverse stroke and slender tail.

REGULAR SCRIPT Regular Script or Standard Script is the major calligraphic style that people use today. As the name suggests, Regular Script is ‘regular’, with each stroke placed slowly and carefully, the brush lifted from the paper and all the strokes distinct from one another. This font was born at the end of the Han Dynasty, and became popular during The Three Kingdoms period, reaching its zenith in the Tang Dynasty. RUNNING SCRIPT Running Script (also called Semi-cursive Script) is the evolution of Clerical Script. In writing in Semi-cursive script, the brush leaves the paper less often than in Regular Script. Charac-

ters appear less angular and rounder. Master calligrapher Wang Xi Zhi is the representative figure of this kind of script. The Orchid Pavilion he wrote is the model of all lovers of calligraphy.

CURSIVE SCRIPT As the name infers, this is a fully cursive script, with drastic simplifications requiring specialised knowledge; even a person who can read Semi-cursive script cannot be expected to read Cursive Script without training. Even though it looks like random writing the fact is that it has its own rules. Knowledge is required to be able to skillfully operate the tip of the brush in order to create harmony. People who want to write good Cursive Script must not only devote themselves to years of diligent study but must master Clerical Script first. Only then will the energy flowing within the lines be sensible. EVER ANCIENT, EVER NEW One of the most time honoured Chinese arts, calligraphy fascinates many people. The Jiazi Society of Calligraphy was founded in Hong

Essential WRITING 与古为新

书法是中国的悠久艺术之一，令普罗大众着迷不已。甲子书学会于 1985 年注册为香港非牟利艺术团体，以弘扬中国书法为宗旨。为了替书法爱好者提供更多交流平台，本会不仅定期举行雅聚，亦举办会员书法专题作品展及隔年出版特刊。甲子书学会近期假金碧文娱中心二楼展览厅举办“与古为新”会员书法作品展，展出九十名会员每人的一幅佳作。作品展分两部分：第一部分有近六十幅作品，由会员临摹殷商到清朝的历代碑帖，带领观众细览篆书、隶书与楷书的唯美碑帖。第二部分作品节录自《易经系辞上、下传》，相传由孔子所作，以此总结中国最古老的经典《易经》。根据《系辞》，《易经》不止于占卜算卦，更富含中国哲理。甲子书学会会长苏树辉博士表示，“中国传统经典是千百年来精神文明宝库，蕴藏极丰富哲理，包括为学、做人、处世与齐家。中国文化多元包容，其优良的「和而不同」思想，对促进社会和谐具有重要意义。希望通过书法艺术的美，让更多人走近中国传统文化，欣赏中国文化，取其优秀成分运用于日常生活，使之在现代社会焕发新风采。” 쐽

Kong in 1985 as a non-profit making arts organisation dedicated to promoting Chinese calligraphy. In order to provide more communication platforms to calligraphy lovers, the Jiazi Society of Calligraphy not only organises regular meetings of members but holds exhibitions and issues biennial publications on calligraphy works. Recently, The Jiazi Society of Calligraphy hosted the ‘Ever Ancient, Ever New’ exhibition at Kam Pek Community Centre, showcasing 90 Chinese works by 90 members. The exhibition comprises two parts: one part displaying 60 members’ works modelled on the stele inscriptions fr of the Shang to Qing dynasties to showcase the aesthetics of seal script, clerical script and regular script. The other part displays excerpts from Xi CI Xi Ci I & II or The Great Treatise I & II said to be written by Confucius as an outline of Yi Ching or Book of Changes, the oldest Chinese classic. According to Xi Ci, Yi Ching is more than just a book of divination but an integral part of Chinese philosophy. “Chinese classics have been the treasures of spiritual civilization over thousands of years and hold a wealth of wisdom guiding us to learn, [how] to behave, to live, to manage a family and even to rule a country. Chinese culture is diversified yet inclusive, and this beautiful concept of ‘harmony without uniformity’ is essential to the promotion of harmony in society. Through calligraphy, we hope to bring people closer to Chinese culture, to appreciate it more and implement its essence in everyday life, enabling it to continue to flourish in modern society.” Dr. Ambrose So, Chairman of The Jiazi Society of Calligraphy, said. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2017年 8月- 9月 | 75

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精致餐桌艺术 The art of the refined table 无论是私人聚餐还是企业大型宴会，雅致而品味上佳的餐桌布置是传递信息的绝佳途径，同时也是极具价值的沟通方式 Whether it is an intimate dinner or a corporate reception for a large group of guests, a tasteful and refined table setting is a privileged vehicle for messages and is considered a valuable communication tool 文/by CLÁUDIA BAPTISTA

由

餐桌设计艺术家二人组勒度及莫卡多（Jean-François Le Dû 和 Carlos Pimenta Machado）创办的 JFC-Heritage Designers 设计事务所为全球顶级客户服务，以往日法国传统为指引，构思、设计和组织宴会。客户预订后，JFC 便会根据最为优雅以及最具创意的方式完成客户要求。回首过去，勒度一直都记得自己对餐桌（布置）非常感兴趣。完成了款客服务业培训后，这位来自布列塔尼的青年于 70 年代来 76 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

到巴黎，后来更成为著名设计师皮尔·卡丹麾下的重要角色，负责管理其时装帝国旗下一个独特领域：在巴黎克雷芒－东奈酒店担任宴会经理。在此期间， “设宴 ” 这个概念从私人空间转移到公共领域，企业开始注重通过个性化的传讯活动传递信息。同时，花艺大师托图（Christian Tortu）等也开始崭露头角，为单调的宴会传统带来耳目一新的风貌，并在国际上也逐渐声名鹊起。当时，宴会常态不过是 “一张铺有白色

hrough JFC-Heritage Designers, the duo of experts in the art of table decorating, formed by Jean-François Le Dû and Carlos Pimenta Machado, travels the world to respond to the calls of an exclusive clientele, in order to organise receptions conceived according to the past guidelines of French tradition. The client places an order and JFC fulfils the request, guided by the highest standards of elegance and creativity.

PHOTO: RICARDO LAMEGO

Essential JEWELLERY

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桌布的自助餐桌，中间摆着一个插有同色花朵的传统美第奇花瓶……” JFC 拥有高定时装界某些大名鼎鼎的客户，比如克劳德·蒙坦拿、克里斯汀·拉克鲁瓦、让·路易·雪莱和伊曼纽尔·温加罗等，此外还有苏富比等知名拍卖行——希望通过餐桌这个最典型以及最理想的社交场合改变形象，是这些客户的共同需求。经过精挑细选的场地极具代表性，其中不乏宫殿、城堡或博物馆等地，散发浓厚历史感的环境为个性化宴会营造理想背景，更在宴会上让宾主尽欢。在不同场所举办宴会的艺术，成为了一种有趣的交流方式。“餐桌会诉说一个故事，”勒度说道，“可能是你个人的故事，也可能是你公司的故事。这是一个友好欢乐的场合，而有时宴会则体现着主办方的力量。” 随着该趋势不断发展，现在宴会艺术已成为不可或缺的关键，能让一度被公认 “ 沉闷 ”的社交活动，变为一个特别的场合，

Looking back, Jean François Le Dû always remembers being interested in the table. After completing his training in hospitality, the Breton travelled to Paris in the 1970s, where he established himself alongside Pierre Cardin when he became responsible for a particular area in the corporate world of the renowned designer: banquets manager at the Hôtel de ClermontTonnerre. There, the concept of hosting shifted from the private sphere to the public, with companies beginning to take advantage of the personalisation of their communication events. It was also around this time that florists such as Christian Tortu came on to the scene, overturning the tradition of monotony that reigned and achieving international prestige. In those days, the norm didn’t go beyond “a white buffet [served on a white table cloth] and a traditional Medici vase with a floral arrangement of the same colour in the middle...” 澳门精华 | 2017年 8月- 9月 | 79

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宴会也因此成为美好回忆，同时，无论主办方是公共领域内的团体、企业、机构或品牌，还是举办私人活动的家庭、夫妇等，宴会设计也是主办方身份的一个延续。勒度以纯粹的法式风格，让宴会艺术至臻完美，并在国际上赢得了卓著声誉。“经过精心营造的餐桌，自有其独特的纹理与和谐风格，（正式）餐桌或许会显得有点拘谨，但加入搭配装饰后则会柔化这种感觉。” 他的身影通常在宾客到达前穿梭于会场之中，用标准计量方式的一种——即他的大拇指——量度叉子与餐巾之间的距离，甚至用尺子将距离精确到 5、10 或 15 厘米，追求欧式完美正式餐桌布置。无论是法国还是英国 80 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Among the clientele were some of the biggest names in haute couture, such as Claude Montana, Christian Lacroix, Scherrer and Emanuel Ungaro, along with the big auction houses like Sotheby’s, which called for a change of image through the most sociable address par excellence: the dinner table. Extremely demanding when choosing iconic locations, such as palaces, castles or museums, rival hosts rejoiced in historical settings as the backdrop for personalised receptions. Indeed, the art of hosting in different places became an interesting communication tool. “The table tells a story,” says Jean-François Le Dû, “your

personal story or that of your company. It’s a convivial place and where, sometimes, the host reveals his power”. The trend developed, and today it has become essential to convert a social commitment that was once invariably regarded as a “tedious” engagement into a special occasion, one that stays in your memory and establishes a continuity of the hosts’ identity – a group, a company, an entity or a brand in the public sphere, or a family, a couple and so forth in the private domain. Le Dû gained international fame, perfecting an art de rigueur in true French style. “The table

Essential DESIGN

has its own architecture and harmony lies in meticulousness. It’s perhaps a little strict, but rigor can be tempered with the introduction of accessories.” He can often be found before guests arrive, measuring the distance between the fork and the napkin with his thumb (a kind of standard measure), or even with a ruler so that the intervals respect exact measurements (5, 10 or 15 centimetres), in search of the formal perfection of a table laid in European style. Be it the tradition refined by the French or the English, the protocol varies in the details but the fundamental codes are respected, so as to avoid “disruptive chaos”. Sophistication at the table, according to

JFC, is reflected in an eclectic selection of fine china and crystal services, silver cutlery, linen, Damask patterns, floral arrangements and accessories designed to the taste of the finest European decorative arts. Alongside the inventory available to design dinner and reception projects in style is a vast knowledge of tradition and a refined sense of aesthetic. Looking to leave Paris after around 40 years of international experience, Le Dû crossed paths with Carlos Pimenta Machado, also from the hospitality field, with a valuable résumé formed in Switzerland and Asia. Together they formed JFC – Heritage Designers in 2012, and in five years it has registered a record of bespoke

流传下来的雅致传统，细节都会存在差异，但他会一直谨遵基本的标准，从而避免“扰乱整体效果的混乱情况”。JFC 认为高贵雅致的餐桌艺术，就体现于挑选以顶级欧洲装饰艺术为灵感的设计作品，呈现出丰富多样的精品瓷器和水晶餐具、刀叉银器、餐巾、桌布锦缎花纹、花艺以及装饰品。除了晚宴和宴会上精挑细选的众多风雅物事，这些美轮美奂的效果背后，还有设计师对传统的深刻认识以及经过千锤百炼的精准审美。在国际宴会设计领域积累了 40 多年经验后，正在考虑离开巴黎的勒度遇上了同样来自款客服务业的莫卡多，莫卡多则在瑞士和亚洲拥有极具价值的丰富经历。二人一澳门精华 | 2017年 8月- 9月 | 81

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Essential DESIGN

拍即合，并于 2012 年创办了 JFC – Heritage Designers 设计事务所，在短短五年内，该事务所便为一系列知名客户打造了众多定制项目，从法国政客、欧洲金融大亨、收藏家到跨国企业等，不一而足。莫卡多回忆起近期的一个例子，那就是继巴伐利亚王权珠宝展开幕式后，宴设慕尼黑王宫的餐桌。除了非凡的餐具系列外， “晚宴为了延续活动主题，餐桌更摆放了镶嵌了蓝宝石和红宝石的银质鸵鸟、水晶制成的鸵鸟蛋、饰有微型珍珠的靠枕、以及专门为这个场合刺绣而成的餐巾 ”——所有一切均以“极致细心和热情”去准备，复制所在地点的天花、图案和装饰细节等元素，为原有的桌子增添点缀。

对勒度而言，某些最精彩的经验则来自他操持的晚宴，“比如在圣彼得堡宏伟的洛可可式建筑——叶卡捷琳娜宫举办的宴会，又或是在缅甸蒲甘美得令人心碎的寺庙举行的晚宴。” 宴会为时大概两小时，之后所有布置便会撤走，虽然这种艺术的创作结果只是昙花一现，但却需要花费数月时间去构思。一场活动要有创意和个性，需要从所在场地撷取灵感，并增添一丝情绪。“我们为一个经典场景带来现代气息的点缀。我们会了解主办方的兴趣、历史或专业历程，以充满创意的方式将其转化为宴会装饰，”莫卡多补充道。天马行空与优雅品味，为每个主题开启无限的创作可能。 쐽

projects for a select portfolio of clients, ranging from French politicians, leading European financial figures and collectors to international industry heavyweights. Carlos Pimenta Machado recalls one example: the preparation of the tables for a recent dinner at Residenz, the Royal Palace in Munich, following the vernissage of an exhibition of the crown jewels of Bavaria. Besides the exuberant serving set, “in an extension of the theme of the event, the tables were enriched with silver ostriches with sapphires and rubies, ostrich eggs made from rock crystal, cushions decorated with micro-pearls and napkins embroidered purposely for the occasion” – all prepared with the “utmost care and passion”, replicating elements of the setting (a ceiling, a pattern, a decorative element) to enrich the adornments of an original table. For Jean-François Le Dû, some of the most exuberant experiences were dinners “such as at the magnificent Rococo palace of Catherine the Great in St Petersburg, or in Burma, with the tear-jerking beauty of the Bagan temples”. This ephemeral art – because it is all taken apart again after around two hours – can, however, take months to conceive. The originality of an event is founded on drawing from the chosen locations, adding a touch of emotion to the event. “In a classic setting, we add splashes of modernity. We explore the interests of the hosts, their history or their professional journey, transferring them to the adornments in a creative way,” adds Pimenta Machado. The possibilities are endless, with each theme explored in line with imagination and taste. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2017年 8月- 9月 | 83

Essential DRINK

味美思炽热回归 The return of vermouth 在全球范围内，味美思及相关饮品都正掀起起一股复兴潮。但是，尽管无处不在，却貌似已经完全销声匿迹了的这款酒，到底是什么来头呢？ Across the globe there has been a revival of vermouth and its ritual. But what is this drink that, despite being everywhere, seemed to have disappeared altogether? 文/by LUIS ANTUNES

人

们常说有两种饮品拯救了人类。一是酒，另一种是茶。原因显而易见，无论从哪方面看，水是致命的。水变成茶的沸腾过程有助于净化掉有致命危险的微生物。葡萄酒发酵的化学过程也具有消毒效果，并且葡萄酒成品的酒精含量通常足以确保它是种有益饮品。但若要举例来说，则啤酒并不一定产生类似的效果，因为它的酒精含量相对较低，不能产生同样的保健效果。但是这些和味美思有什么关系呢？这是因为味美思其实是结合葡萄酒和茶这两种饮品基本制作过程的历史产物。首先，重要的是要记住味美思可以被简单地定义为“芳香酒”。

味美思是一种以葡萄酒为酒基的酒，因生产国而异，其制作过程中葡萄酒多寡也不同，但是必须要有一定量的葡萄酒。Vermouth 这字本身源于德国的 wermut（苦艾），苦艾是一种草药，苦艾酒正是从它提炼而得。苦艾，是学名为“中亚苦蒿”的植物的惯用语，在英语里唤作艾草（Wormwood)，从其英语名称 Wormwood（单纯从字面理解可以是 “杀虫草 ”的意思）可想而知它的消毒功效。这些性质，注定它从一开始便是结合了茶和葡萄酒制作技巧的饮品。葡萄酒容易变质，产生出不良味道，而各种植物被用来延缓或避免变质。与此同时，出于健康原因，

t is usually said that there are two drinks that saved mankind. One is wine, the other is tea. And it’s easy to see why: water is mortal, for many and various reasons. The boiling process that helps water become tea purifies it from fatal micro-organisms. In wine, the chemical process of fermentation also has a disinfectant effect, and the alcohol content of the end result is often enough to ensure the drink is salubrious. For the purpose of an example, the same doesn’t necessarily happen with beer, seeing as its relatively low alcohol content doesn’t ensure the same level of health. 澳门精华 | 2017年 8月- 9月 | 85

葡萄酒（通常是加甜型）被用来帮助吸收有益的草药。嗅闻和品尝味美思，回味其细微差别，味美思品饮历史可以追溯到数千年前，但今天它又以新的形式出现。味美思的历史及其不断的地域性发展和我们今天所知道的葡萄酒史有重合。现存许多关于 “苦艾酒 ”的古老记载，出于格鲁吉亚（据称大约是公元前 6000 年的葡萄酒的发源地），而且在埃及，印度和中国的考古遗迹中都发现了葡萄酒和草药的残留物。但是葡萄酒也像大多数食物一样，与健康是紧密相关的，而且在古代，医生和厨师的角色常常重叠。葡萄酒作为一种非常重要的药物 (以酒精的消毒特性而言 )，它和药酒（补酒）都是治疗各种疾病必不可少的，而且也能刺激食欲。 François Monti 是最权威的味美思专家之一，追溯由他所写的故事非常有趣。他解释说，在各种食品（包括葡萄酒）之间一直存在着一条微妙的界线，来分野哪些是基本保健品，哪些是为情趣而食用；这与利用添加剂来保存和改进葡萄酒和为了口腹享受及秀奢侈而添加某些成分这两者之间存在差异一样。在后两种情况下，香料（包括自古以来珍贵难得的糖）一直是显赫高贵的象征。香料

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But what does all this have to do with vermouth? It is because vermouth emerges as the historical synthesis of the same processes at the base of these two aforementioned drinks. Firstly, it’s important to remember that the definition of vermouth can be as simple as “aromatised wine”. Vermouth is a wine-based drink, and depending on the country, it must have a certain amount of wine in its preparation. The word itself comes from the German wermut, the herb from which absinthe is extracted. Wermut, the common term for Lineu artemisia absinthium, is wormwood in English, which describes its disinfectant qualities. These were the qualities that, since the beginning of time, brought together the world of tea and the world of wine. Wine deteriorated easily, developing bad flavours, and various kinds of plants were used to delay or avoid that deterioration. At the same time, wine (often sweetened) was used to help the intake of good herbs for health reasons.

Essential DRINK

最初只有国王可以享有，渐渐地它们被传播至贵族和富裕的资产阶级。这些来自遥远土地的芳香（一些文本中提到它们来自天堂）有着强烈的吸引力，点燃了下层阶级的欲望。后来，随着发现新大陆而引起的全球化，普罗大众也可以接触享用到这些产品，包括味美思。因应历史上的稳定和危机时期，对味美思的消费也经历了一波波的增长和收缩。现代味美思的故事通常始于 1786 年的卡帕诺（Carpano）酒厂。故事有点扑朔迷离，主要是因为安东尼奥 ·贝内德托 ·卡帕诺（Antonio Benedetto Carpano）在都灵为利口酒师路易吉 ·马郎达佐（Luigi Marendazzo）工作，而且几十年后才出现关于卡帕诺创立的故事。此外，在同一时期于别的地方，也有提及过加香葡萄酒乃至“味美思”这个词。其他技术的发展也有助于定义味美思的概念，如蒸馏法和提取萃取物的技术等等这些将芳香和风味浓缩进酒液的方法，可以使葡萄酒之后始终保持香味，加强了酒体风味，因而广受欢迎，赢得了忠实客户。都灵味美思即使不是世界上唯一的味美思，但最大的味美思酒厂现在仍然在那里。另一味美思名庄诺瓦丽·普拉（Noilly-Prat）则在里昂成立，它位于阿尔卑斯山的另一边，而且也能采摘到同一草药，因而于 1813 年开始生产味美思。每升都灵味美思约含 150 克糖，而里昂味美思是以柔和葡萄汁经烈酒加强，在桶中发酵而成，相比都灵版本，里昂味美思甜度大减（每升含 45 克糖），所以尝起来更为苦涩。介于都灵和里昂味美思口味中间的是尚贝里（Chambéry）味美思，由于其产量小，而变得非常有影响力。尚贝里口味是半甜型（80 克糖 /升），调配混合较少香料，而花香和柑橘味更浓郁。白味美思诞生于尚贝里，并在全球大获成功。不久之后，都灵各酒厂纷纷跟风仿效：马天尼在 1910 年推出了白味美思（Bianco）。1930 年，尚贝里为其味美思赢得第一个原产地认证。西班牙风格味美思是另一种风味的味美思，值得一提，其产地集中于雷乌斯一带。事实上，意大利味美思自 19 世纪后期在加泰罗尼亚已经流行起来，随后也风行伊比利亚半岛其他地区。由于西班牙曾对进口商品实施禁运，使本地味美思生产大大发展起来。在二十世纪初巴塞罗那优雅的咖啡馆里，午餐（十二点）和晚餐（晚上七点）之前，在精英中出现了一种称为“味美思时间”的习惯。渐渐地，这一习惯逐渐传播开来，成为一种民族传统。禁运造就了强大而独立的西班牙味美思产业的发展。意大利味美思更苦，更丰富、展现以香草味为主的香料芳香，反之，西班牙人更注重药草的芳香和柑橘味，减少香料和苦味。这让西班牙味美思尽管糖分更少，尝起来却比意大利的更甜。西班牙味美思适合加冰净饮，意大利味美思则更适宜在室温下饮用。

Smelling and tasting vermouth and pondering over its nuances, this historical explanation, which dates back thousands of years, gains a new semblance. The history of vermouth and its successive geographical evolutions crosses over with the history of wine as we know it today. There are many ancient accounts of “absinthe

wine”, located in Georgia (the country that is allegedly the birthplace of wine, circa the year 6,000 BC), but also in Egypt, India and China, where residues of wine and herbs were found in archaeological relics. But wine, like most foods, went hand in hand with health, and often in ancient times, the roles of doctor and cook were one of the same. Wine as a medicine was incredibly important (in regards to the disinfectant properties of alcohol) and tonic wines were essential for treating various conditions, but also to stimulate the appetite. It’s interesting to follow the story of vermouth as written by one of the biggest authorities on the subject, François Monti. He explains that there has always been a fine line between foods (including wine) that are fundamental for health and those that are consumed for pleasure; just as there was a difference between additives to preserve and improve wine, and those that were added for pleasure and displays of luxury. In the case of the latter two, spices (including sugar, with its own definition) were always a sign of distinction and nobility. Originally reserved for kings, little by little they were disseminated down to the nobility and then to a wealthy bourgeoisie. These aromas from faraway lands (some texts mention Paradise as their origin) had a strong aspirational power, which ignited the desire among the lower classes. Later, with the globalisation that arose from newly discovered territories, access to these products was popularised and vermouth itself as well. Successive periods of stability and crisis 澳门精华 | 2017年 8月- 9月 | 87

Essential DRINK

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Essential DRINK

从 19 世纪后期开始，如今被称为鸡尾酒的“美国酒水”是时髦的饮品，而味美思则逐渐作为一种关键调酒原材料而存在。第一次涉及到味美思的鸡尾酒在 1869 年出现，只是用味美思配柠檬皮和冰制成。其他几款和味美思有关的鸡尾酒，包括马天尼（1887 年）和曼哈顿（1891 年），直至最终演变出干马天尼。首个干马天尼调配方出现于 1904 年，以等量的杜松子酒和干味美思，以及用 Dash 注射分量（约 10 滴）的苦橙酒或安哥斯特拉酒。更现代的版本中杜松子酒与干味美思之比为 2 比 1，苦味随人所好，典型的装饰是用橄榄或螺旋柠檬皮。经典的制作方法是在调酒器中调制完后加入冰块和碎冰，再将鸡尾酒过滤后倒入鸡尾酒杯。007 电影里“是摇动还是搅动”的讨论，使其成为一种极具魅力的饮品，同时也为世界各地人们所知。最终，杜松子酒的比例（从开初时的 1：1）逐渐增加到 2：1，3：1 等等，直到它再融合出另一种比例为 15：1 的被称为蒙哥马利的鸡尾酒 — — 这是英国陆军元帅马歇尔·伯纳德·蒙哥马利（Bernard Montgomery）喜欢的比例，据说他只喜欢在非常有利的条件下发动进攻。另一款历史性的鸡尾酒是内格罗尼酒。在美国的禁酒法期间，许多调酒师搬到欧洲，发扬光大了鸡尾酒制作艺术。在 19 世纪晚期，金巴利苦酒/味美思联合出现在一种名为 “米兰—都灵”的鸡尾酒中，在巴黎 50 年代的

led to waves of expansion and contraction of vermouth consumption. The story of modern vermouth often begins at the Carpano house in 1786. The story is a bit foggy, mostly because Antonio Benedetto Carpano worked for the liqueurist Luigi Marendazzo in Turin, and references to its foundation only appear several decades later. Also, other mentions of aromatised wines and of the word vermouth itself appeared elsewhere at around the same time. Other technological developments also contributed towards the definition of the concept of vermouth, such as distillation and the ability to produce extracts, ways of concentrating aromas and flavours into mostly alcoholbased liquids, which later allowed wines to be aromatised consistently, strengthening the construction of a common flavour that would win over a loyal clientele. The Turin vermouths weren’t even the only ones, but the biggest companies are still based there today. On the other side of the Alps and with access to the same herbs, Noilly-Prat was founded in Lyon, producing vermouth since 1813. Turin vermouth has around 150g of sugar per litre, while Lyon vermouth is fortified with muted grape must, is fermented in barrels and has a

less sweet style (45g of sugar per litre) than the Turin version and so seems more bitter. Halfway between Turin and Lyon lies Chambéry, which became very influential thanks to its small production. The Chambéry style is semisweet (80g/l), has less spices and a more floral and citrusy profile. White vermouth was created in Chambéry and became a global success. It wasn’t long before the Turin houses followed the trend: Martini launched its Bianco in 1910. It was also Chambéry that achieved the first denomination of origin for vermouth, in 1930. There is another style of vermouth worth mentioning – the Spanish style, centred in Reus. Italian vermouth had become popular in Catalonia since the late 19th century before making an impact on the rest of the Iberian Peninsula. Local production developed immensely due to an embargo on imports. In the elegant cafés of Barcelona in the early 20th century, a habit emerged among the elite of “vermouth time”, before lunch (12pm) and before dinner (7pm). Gradually, the habit spread and established itself as a national tradition. The embargo led to the growth of a strong and independent Spanish vermouth industry. Contrary to the Italian vermouths – more bitter, ample and spiced, with a dominance of vanilla –, the 澳门精华 | 2017年 8月- 9月 | 89

Essential DRINK

某个时候（尽管有传说提到是 1921 年佛罗伦萨内格罗尼伯爵所研制），人们用杜松子酒提升了此款鸡尾酒的愉悦感。内格罗尼鸡尾酒，把等量的杜松子酒、味美思和金巴利酒调制后倒入鸡尾酒杯，这是一款简单的鸡尾酒，但其复杂层次和吸引力却丝毫不减。 20 世纪以来，几个因素导致了味美思消费的下降，例如倾向于适度饮酒，特别是在美国的禁酒令时期（1919-1933），以及 1914 - 1918 年和 1939 - 1945 年二次世界大战期间 — — 而这两个时间段之间还夹着 1929 年爆发的经济危机时期——但甚或只是随着时间的流逝而致味美思不再风行。 20 世纪初现代饮料兴起，味美思成为了一种过时饮品，取而代之的是其他酒水，比如啤酒——啤酒伴随着北欧游客的到来而于南部国家广泛传播开来。也许自相矛盾的是，像马天尼和沁扎诺酒等大牌竭力保持现代化，这实际上对味美思并不利。这些品牌很强势，他们不需要靠味美思品类开拓市场。马天尼以马天尼名号去做推广，而不是味美思。可能千千万万马天尼酒客中的大多数人，都不会把马天尼和味美思联系在一起，品牌本身的 90 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Spanish focused more on aromatic herbs and citrus flavours, with less spices and a less persistent bitterness. This makes them seem sweeter than the Italian ones, even though they have less sugar. Spanish vermouth is to be drunk on its own, very cold and with ice. The Italian vermouths cope well with being served at room temperature. Since the late 19th century, “American drinks”, today called cocktails, were fashionable, and vermouth gradually enforced its presence as a key ingredient. The first reference of a Vermouth Cocktail appeared in 1869; just vermouth with a lemon rind and ice. Several other cocktails with vermouth, including the Martinez (1887) and the Manhattan (1891), eventually led to the Dry Martini, the first recipe of which appeared in 1904, with equal parts of gin and dry vermouth and two dashes of bitter orange or Angostura. The more modern version includes a 2 to 1 ratio of gin, the bitters are optional and the typical decoration is an olive or a twisted lemon rind. Preparation is classically done in a shaker with ice and crushed ice, and

then poured and strained into the serving glass. The “shaken or stirred” discussion brought to the fore by 007 helped make this a hugely glamorous drink, while also making it known to people everywhere. Eventually, the proportion of gin (which as we saw started at 1:1) was progressively increased to 2:1, 3:1 and so on, until converging into another cocktail called Montgomery, whose proportion of 15:1 evokes the favoured odds of British Field Marshall Bernard Montgomery, who supposedly only liked to attack in highly favourable conditions. Another historical cocktail is the Negroni. During the American dry law, many bartenders moved to Europe and developed the art of cocktail-making. The Campari/vermouth association emerged in a cocktail called Milano-Torino in the late 19th century, and was reinforced with gin for an extra kick in Paris sometime during the ‘50s (despite the legend that mentions a Count Negroni in Florence in 1921). The Negroni, with its equal parts of gin, vermouth and Campari and prepared in the serving glass,

Essential DRINK 优势造成这局面。The Martini Man（马天尼型男），那年轻而永恒的 007，每天都在魅力和诱惑中穿梭，已经成为了品牌的一个耀眼标志。但是，也许与马天尼所愿相反的是，今天的年轻人对 Martini Man 较生疏。关注选用当地最天然产品，关注保护原产地的环境，因为希望走向国际而坚守本地制造精神从而诠释一种普世价值，再加上美食、葡萄酒、杜松子酒、啤酒等主题强势回归，所有这些都显著重燃起人们对味美思的极大兴趣。在马德里、巴塞罗那、巴黎、纽约和旧金山出现了味美思酒吧，甚至是专营各式各样的尼格罗尼酒（完美的尼格罗尼、Negroni Sbagliato、布奥尼、内格罗先生、Cycaroni）的酒吧，在迅速蔓延的狂热中纷纷涌现。新品牌和新的精酿酒商相继出现，大品牌和其他更老的、更传统的品牌已经对其产品改进做出了回应。G&T （Gin & Tonic，金汤力）大行其道，使人们对鸡尾酒产生新的兴趣，鸡尾酒中的一些成分在质量上有了大幅度的提高，以满足那些见多识广的公众渴望学习和尝试的兴趣。以精心挑选产品制成的精制汤力水、自制的苦味酒、实验性的蒸馏饮品、产品融合、传统品牌的复苏和被遗忘的饮品，所有涉及到酒吧世界的东西现在都成为人们关注的焦点。我们不指望已成过去的 Martini Man 会重新现身，以满头脏辫和脚穿满是泥靴子的形象出现，但围绕味美思的潮饮浪潮，肯定会让大品牌想起这个美妙产品的名字，而其可爱传统正是他们所珍视的。因为，一个有着千年历史的酒故事，绝不能一吹即散。 쐽

is a simple cocktail to prepare without ever losing its complexity and appeal. Several factors contributed to the decline of vermouth consumption throughout the 20th century, such as a tendency to moderate alcohol consumption, particularly during the Prohibition (1919-1933) in the USA, the World Wars of 1914-1918 and 1939-1945, with the 1929 crisis in the middle, and even just falling out of fashion with the passing of time. From modern drink from the early 1900s, vermouth became a dated drink and was replaced by other beverages, such as beer, for example, which had a huge dissemination in southern countries, accompanying the tourism from northern Europe. Perhaps paradoxically, the efforts to stay modern from the big hitters such as Martini and Cinzano actually worked against vermouth. The brands were strong; they didn’t need the category of vermouth to sell. Martini promoted itself as Martini, not as vermouth. Possibly, many of the millions of Martini drinkers don’t associate Martini to vermouth, such was the strength of the brand itself. The Martini Man, the young, everyday 007 that sails the waters of glamour and seduction, is a trademark that is confined to the brand. But maybe today’s youngsters relate less to the Martini Man than Martini itself would like. A focus on local products, on minimal manipulation of ingredients, on environmental concerns

and an attachment to locality as an expression of a cosmopolitanism that wishes to be global, together with a strong rekindling of the themes of gastronomy, wine, gin, beer, etc, all that caused a marked revival of an interest in vermouth. In Madrid, Barcelona, Paris, New York and San Francisco, there are vermouth bars – and even bars specialising exclusively in Negroni variations (Perfect Negroni, Negroni Sbagliato, Buñueloni, Monsieur Negroni, Cycaroni) – are popping up in a fast-spreading fever. New brands have appeared, along with new craft producers, and giant brands and other older, more traditional ones have responded with improved versions of their products. The world of G&T contributed towards a new interest in cocktails, and some of their components improved drastically in quality, responding to the interest of an informed public hungry to learn and experiment. Artisan tonic water made from hand-picked products, homemade bitters, experimental distilled drinks, product fusions, the recovery of traditional brands and forgotten drinks; everything that involves the bar world is currently taking the spotlight. We don’t expect the Martini Man to reappear with dreadlocks and mud-laden boots, but the wave growing around vermouth will certainly remind the big brands of the name of the wonderful product whose lovely tradition is at their core. A 1,000-year-old story can’t be put out with a single puff. 쐽

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Essential SUMMER

潜入盛夏 Dive Into Summer 游泳是夏天最值得期待的活动之一。随《澳门精华》跳入城中最好的游泳池，去体验前所未有的清凉盛夏 Swimming is one of the most anticipated of Summer activities. Dive into the best swimming pools in the city with Essential Macau to experience the coolest Summer ever 文/by EDWINA LIU

文华东方酒店

座落于澳门半岛的澳门文华东方酒店是该地域内最具特色的五星级酒店之一。酒店面海而建，拥有时尚现代的设计和传奇式的服务，为顾客奉上优雅的氛围和无与伦比的奢华。每个夏季，25 米长的户外标准泳池（根据季节开放）只向酒店宾客开放，从泳池可欣赏到中国南海的壮丽景观。清凉的泳池水融入大海，宾客可坐拥海天一色的美景，畅游一番。宾客还可享受特设的池畔服务，提供清爽型面部喷雾、干爽毛巾和清淡茶点。阳光下，泳池中尽享自我，放松一夏。

MANDARIN ORIENTAL Located on the Macau Peninsula, Mandarin Oriental Macau is one of the most exclusive hotels in the territory. With its waterside backdrop and chic, contemporary design and legendary service, the hotel offers a sophisticated atmosphere and unbeatable luxury. Every Summer, the seasonal outdoor 25-metre lap swimming pool is reserved exclusively for hotel guests and residents with magnificent views over the South China Sea. Cool pool water melted into the sea, lake and blue sky creates a beautiful Summer scene. Guests can also enjoy a poolside service with refreshing face spritzers, cool towels and light refreshments. Relax and refresh as you experience the pool and sundeck.

Essential JEWELLERY

澳门银河酒店

占地面积高达 7.5 万平方米，天浪淘园是澳门最大的水上乐园。当宾客步入乐园，热带植物跃然眼前，让宾客感觉仿佛置身于东南亚的小岛。宾客还可在以亚洲为主题的热带花园里感受舒适写意的环境。不仅如此，天浪淘园还拥有全球最长的 575 米空中激流，和全球最大的空中冲浪池。对于那些想要在海滩上闲逛又不想忙于飞往小岛的人来说，这个世界上最大的空中冲浪池让你梦想成真，精心准备了纯净的 150 米白色沙滩，供游客尽享阳光。游客还可跳

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入面积广达 8,000 平方米的冲浪池，以及享受每天必有的 1.5 米高人造海浪。令人肾上腺素激增的还有各式各样充满吸引力的水上景点，其中包括澳门首个及唯一的冲天激流、间歇泉和瀑布。或在透明设计的滑水道里放轻松，懒洋洋地随波逐流在河上，尽享美丽浪花的亲吻。炎炎夏日，宾客们可以体验到另一种特殊的降温方式——“雪碧”激爽体验：特制的巨型雪碧 ®汽水机将现身天浪淘园，让使用者体验由头到脚淋浴的激爽力量。

GALAXY MACAU Occupying an expansive 75,000 square metres, The Grand Resort Deck is the biggest water park in Macau. While stepping onto the steps of the Grand Resort Deck, tropical plants jump to the eye, transporting guests to a small island in Southeast Asia. Guests can also escape to the unique Asian-themed Skytop Gardens to experience extraordinary tranquility. The Grand Resort Deck boasts the world’s largest Skytop Aquatic Adventure River Ride at 575 metres and the world’s largest Skytop Wave Pool. For those who want to lounge on the beach but are too busy to fly to an island, the World's Largest Skytop Wave Pool can make your dreams come true, with its pristine 50-metre white sand beach for guests intent on soaking up the rays. Guests can also jump into the 8,000 square metre pool to enjoy its daily 1.5 m high wave surges. The adrenaline rush continues with a vast assortment of water attractions that include the first and only Slide Mountain in Macau, geysers and waterfalls. Or relax in a transparent glass tube and drift lazily into idyllic sprays on the river. This scorching Summer, guests can experience another exceptional way of cooling off with a Sprite Shower – A giant post-mix dispenser shower that gives users the most refreshing experience from head to toe.

Essential SUMMER

永利皇宫

作为澳门冉冉升起的新星，永利皇宫这座豪华综合度假村将自然之美重新演绎。永利皇宫的花园游泳充满活力，就像城市里一个隐秘的天堂，在这里，宾客们可以在宽敞的环境中尽情享受表演湖的卓越景

观，欣赏闪耀的澳门路氹天际线，以及令人惊叹的花园景致。这个恬静优雅的世外桃源为宁静的早晨和下午而量身定做，它是一枚遗世独立的明珠，恬淡自然，宾客可露天在波光粼粼的水

面上悠然畅泳。在水中尽兴之后，宾客们可享受招牌冰爽鸡尾酒，在舒适躺椅上沐浴阳光。此外还有六个私属豪华休憩亭，可供宾客在阴凉处小寐，在凉爽的阵阵清风下，呼吸着空气中弥漫的甜美花香而小睡片刻。 쐽

WYNN PALACE As the newest star in Macau, Wynn Palace is a magnificent luxury resort inspired by the beauty of nature. The vibrant floral themed pool is like a hidden paradise in the city, in which guests can luxuriate in spacious surroundings extending to fabulous views over the perfor-

mance lake, Macau’s sparkling Cotai skyline and breathtaking garden. This idyllic spot is tailor-made for tranquil mornings and afternoons, a jewel of escapism where guests can swim in the shimmering waters in the open air. After having fun in the

water, guests can enjoy icy signature cocktails while soaking up the sun on plush lounge chairs. In addition, six private cabanas are available for guests to doze in the shade, enjoy the cool breeze and the scent of flowers floating through the air. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2017年 8月- 9月 | 95

PHOTO CREDIT: COURTESY OF MELCO RESORTS & ENTERTAINMENT

Essential CHEF

靠山吃山 Eat the Mountain 「米其林指南港澳美食盛宴系列」之国际大厨系列邀请意大利罗莎 · 阿尔比娜酒店（Rosa Alpina Hotel）米其林二星餐厅圣胡伯图斯（St. Hubertus）名厨诺贝特（Norbert Niederkofler）来到澳门新濠锋酒店展示一系列独特秘制菜式 Michelin Guide Hong Kong Macau Dining Series invited Chef Norbert Niederkofler from two-Michelin-starred St. Hubertus at Rosa Alpina Hotel to present an exclusive menu at Altira Macau 文/by EDWINA LIU

诺

贝特大厨生于意大利多罗米蒂山区正中央的小镇鲁塔哥（Lutago），在父亲修建于山上的酒店里长大。这段经历不仅影响了他的孩童年代，也塑造了他自己的餐饮哲学。 “我的父母在山里曾经有一座酒店，所以放假的时候我在厨房里跟父亲一起工作。那里的气氛一直很愉悦——当然冬天很暖和 ——有很多访客探望我们，也能够尝试很多 96 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

新的食材。在我很小的时候，我实际上就是住进了厨房里，所以烹饪对于我来说已经是生活的一部分了。我一直很喜欢这种感觉，还有厨房里那种温馨的氛围。” 由于极为痴迷烹饪，所以年少的诺贝特就认定烹饪作为终身事业。要成为一名职业大厨的第一步，就意味着先得离开家乡小镇，去外地学习更多技艺。诺伯特大厨后来踏足德国，在那里进修。他这样回忆道：

orn in Lutago, a small town in the heart of the Dolomites, Italy, Chef Norbert Niederkofler grew up in his father’s hotel in the mountains, an experience that not only influenced his childhood but shaped his whole life and culinary philosophy. “My parents used to have a small hotel in the mountains, so in the holidays I used to work in the kitchen with my father. It was always a

Essential CHEF

澳门精华 | 2017年 8月- 9月 | 97

Essential CHEF

“那里的学校非常国际化，人们来自全球各地。就好像每一家酒店学校那样，他们教你最基本的核心课程，这些课程都是非常重要的。有了非常坚实的基础技巧之后，你日后便可以天马行空地发挥了。” 除了在学校里系统学习之外，诺贝特还喜获机会跟随大师级名厨约格 ·穆勒（ Jörg Müller）和艾克特 ·威茨曼（ Eckart Witzigmann）工作。这段珍贵的经历大大地促进了他的事业发展。“威茨曼是第一位法国以外获得米其林三星级的大厨，”诺贝特说。“他也跟很多伟大的法国大厨合作，比如保罗·哈柏林（Paul Haeberlin）和保罗·布赫西（Paul Bocuse）。所以他懂得整套法国古典菜系。威茨曼真的是个天才，但是他也有时会疯狂、急躁、吵闹和非常严厉。” 在德国工作了七年之后，诺贝特大厨决定游走得更远。他说道，“旅游能够在很多方面丰富你的视野，不仅仅能够让你接触新的烹饪风格，还会体验到其他文化。旅游是我梦寐以求想做的事情之一。当我开始阅读烹饪书的时候，我对其背后的生活方式的好奇心也在增加，我对环游世界的渴求也在增加。在厨房里打工赚钱对我的旅游计划来说帮助很大，因为即使是我没有钱的时候，我也能够挑选我喜欢的地方去旅游。”

闯荡纽约

德国之后他的旅途下一站是 “大苹果 ” ——纽约。在那里，在最刺激的前沿地带，诺贝特大厨了解到各种烹饪文化和菜系，这也是他职业生涯的重要一课。“纽约是这个世界上最有意思的城市，特别是在我 1984 年搬过去之后的那几年。纽约有各色各样的特色菜式，从中餐、日餐、印度餐到意大利餐

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pleasant atmosphere – very warm in the wintertime – with lots of people coming to see us and new food to try. I’ve practically lived in the kitchen since I was very young, so cooking has always been part of my life. I always love the feeling and cosy ambience of the kitchen. Because he was so in love with cooking young Norbert knew it would be his lifelong career. To be a professional chef, the first step meant leaving the small town to learn more skills. Chef Norbert set his foot on his journey to Germany and studied there, recalling, “The school was very international with people from all over the world. As with every hotel school, they teach you the classic fundamentals, which is extremely important. With a good foundation of skills, there is no limit to what you can do in the future. In addition to systematic study in the school, Norbert got the opportunity to work with master chefs Jörg Müller and Eckart Witzigmann, valuable experiences which were to propel his career. “Witzigmann was the first chef outside of France to get three Michelin stars,” said Chef Norbert. “He worked with many great French chefs like Paul Haeberlin and Paul Bocuse, so he had an entire programme of classic French cuisine. Witzigmann was a genius but he could be crazy, fast, loud and very demanding.” After working in Germany for seven years, Chef Norbert decided to venture further afield, saying, “Travelling opens your mind in many ways, not just to new cooking styles but also to other cultures. It was part of my dream. As I started to read cookbooks my curiosity about life grew, and so did my dream to travel the

world. Working in kitchens helped me a lot in terms of travelling, as it was possible for me to choose places I loved even when I didn’t have the money. ”

BITING INTO THE BIG APPLE The next stop on his travels was the ‘Big Apple’ - New York. Here, Chef Norbert learned about different cuisines at the sharp end, another very important in his career. “New York is the most interesting city in the world, particularly in the first couple of years after I moved there from 1984 onwards. It has all kinds of distinctive cuisines, from Chinese, Japanese and Indian to Italian and French. Germany in those days was very organised and demanding. By contrast, America was very open with different cultures and lots of things to see, which made it the country to be in. Days in New York were always exciting to him, but his most memorable experience was his first dinner with Chef David Bouley - “It was a perfect combination of Asian and French cuisine. With his wealth of knowledge, he’s still one of the best chefs in the world to me” – thus it was here that he truly began to develop his own style, but after a while he started to miss the mountains and flavours of his hometown. In 1993, Norbert returned home to work at the Castel Colz in La Villa for a year before being offered the chance to run the kitchen at Rosa Alpina Hotel & Spa in San Cassiano, at the foot of the Dolomite mountains. “It was never planned; it was pure coincidence,” he says. “The place where I worked, Castel Col, was really

PHOTO CREDIT: COURTESY OF MELCO RESORTS & ENTERTAINMENT

Essential CHEF

和法国餐，无所不包。当时的德国是很井井有条，而且要求严格；相比之下，美国对不同文化采取非常开放、包容的态度，式样之多让人眼花缭乱。所以去美国去对了。” 在纽约的日子固然非常让他感到兴奋，但是他最深刻的印象是他第一次与大厨大卫·保利（David Bouley）一起进餐的经历。 “那次真的是亚洲和法国美食的最佳结合。他拥有的丰富知识，让他一直在我心中保持世界最顶级的大厨地位。”——因此也就是自此起，他真正开始塑造出自己的风格，但是没过多久他又重新想念起家乡的大山大岭和美食风味。在 1993 年，诺贝特回到家乡，在拉维拉（La Villa）柯芝堡餐厅（Castel Colz）工作了一年，随后就在位于多罗米蒂山山脚下的城市圣卡西亚诺（San Cassiano）的罗萨·阿尔比娜（Rosa Alpina Hotel & Spa）酒店运营那里的厨房。 “实际上这个职位并非计划中事。这个是纯粹的巧合，”他这

样说。 “我原先工作的柯芝堡餐厅还真的非常棒，也很独特。在那里我有自由发挥的空间，能够找回自我。但最终，万事皆有起因。” 在那个时候，该餐厅是一个主要经营披萨的餐厅，但是诺贝特希望把它变成一家高档的餐饮场所，主营奥地利菜和意大利菜。 “我花了很多时间才让顾客们欣赏到这种新思路，以及我带来的新烹饪技术。最大的麻烦是换季和歇业期的时候。在寻找供应商、雇员和顾客等方面我们存在难题。我们尝试把营业时间慢慢拉长。”当诺贝特大厨千辛万苦克服困难的时候，他也开始慢慢打下了烹饪理念的根基。 “九年了，我们在这个过程中以一种敬畏的心态去处理大自然和食材生产者的关系，总是注意季节性和持续性。对于我们来说文化非常重要：那就是一些工作要以什么样的方式去做。我们把这种方法称作‘靠山吃山’，” 他解释说。2000 年，餐厅获得了第一颗米其

great and unique – I had the chance to do things my way and the freedom to find myself. At the end of the day, there is always a reason why.” At the time the restaurant was a pizzeria but Norbert set about turning it into a fine dining establishment, taking the cuisines of Austria and Italy as inspiration. “It took a lot of work to make guests appreciate new ways of thinking and new cooking techniques... The biggest difficulties were seasonality and the closing periods. There were problems getting suppliers, staff and guests. We were trying to make the opening times longer and longer.” While Chef Norbert was finding ways to overcome the difficulties, he was also laying the foundation of his cooking philosophy. “For nine years, we have worked in a very respectful way with nature and producers, keeping seasonality and sustainability in mind. Culture is very important to us - the way certain things have been done in a certain way. We call 澳门精华 | 2017年 8月- 9月 | 99

PHOTO CREDIT: COURTESY OF MELCO RESORTS & ENTERTAINMENT

Essential CHEF

林星。随后不久，酒店老板决定关闭披萨店，并且让诺贝特全权掌管这里的餐单，于是到了 2007 年他们又赢得第二颗米其林星。 “一间米其林星级餐厅应该有高品质的服务、氛围、装潢和存酒，”他这样认为。“在烹饪技能和专业领域方面，大厨和餐厅拥有者应该拥有决定权。我认为应该要自行开拓自己的道路——你要熟知自己的客户和客人。米其林委员会的评审非常严谨认真，这一点当然很好，但是我认为米其林也应该理解和尊重餐厅东主的决定。” 诺贝特大厨获邀参加「米其林指南港澳美食盛宴系列」之国际大厨系列，在新濠锋酒店的意大利餐厅「奥罗拉」（为米其林推荐餐厅）呈献自己的精致菜单。这个活动也是新濠锋酒店为庆祝成立十周年而举行的「闪烁十载名厨系列」盛事的一部分，活动在整个五月举办，为期一个月。

美食+美酒的完美搭配

「米其林指南港澳美食盛宴系列」由著名的葡萄酒鉴赏组织 Robert Parker Wine Advocate 与一直为高端餐饮业提供权威指南的《米其林指南香港澳门》携手举办。双方都热切展现美食世界最好最美妙的方方面面，鼎力邀请顶尖餐饮专家为社会大众带来独一无二的餐饮体验。诺贝特大厨炮制的这份特备菜单包括一份让人赏心悦目的四道菜午餐，和一份体现厨师个人风格和原创力的六道菜晚餐。 “我们尝试把自己的饮食理念带到澳门，让宾客们看到我们的制作，让他们理解我们作 100 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

品背后的想法。我们并非只是为了创造菜式而创造，我们从文化上切入，从大自然出发，对食材的季节性和食材生产者的工作充满敬意。我们认为每样产品都有其独特面目是很重要的。” 诺贝特大厨在菜谱中首先呈现当季最新鲜的产品，包括白鱼鞑靼、柠檬马鞭草羊奶奶酪麦仁、红菜头马铃薯面配白萝卜忌廉、色雷斯（Ceres）乳猪和苹果挞。“也许红菜头马铃薯面配白萝卜忌廉是最有趣的一道菜了。它用的食材都非常简单便宜，但是如果将它们融汇且烹调得法的话，会爆发出惊人的味道。” 这次在澳门举行的特别菜式呈献活动也许已经结束了，但是诺贝特大厨的旅程却还没完结。“我的下一个目标是让顾客们感到快乐，让他们更深入地了解美食及其背后种种事情，包括这个产业生产者和从业人员面对的困难，这包括从洗碗工到侍应生和大厨。我希望食客们真正体会到造就美食背后的努力与艰辛，”他最后说。在整个八月份，「米其林指南港澳美食盛宴系列」将在香港和澳门两地呈献精彩的 “国际大厨系列”，特邀日本神户芦屋市的米其林两星级「京料理─高木」餐厅大厨高木和夫为公众准备一套四道菜的午餐以及一套展露厨师个性和原创特色的八道菜晚餐，并且联手知名葡萄酒指南 Robert Parker Advocate 精心挑选上乘美酒匹配绝味美食。此次盛事将于 8 月 9 日在香港 Mira 餐厅 Whisky 厅，以及 8 月 11 日和 12 日在澳门新濠锋酒店「天政」日本餐厅举行。请热切期待！ 쐽

this approach ‘Cook the Mountain’,” he says. “In 2000, the restaurant won its first Michelin star. Shortly after, the owner of the hotel decided to close down the pizzeria and let Norbert assume full control of the menu, which eventually led to a second star in 2007. “To be a Michelin-starred restaurant [one] should have a high standard of service, ambience, setting and wine,” he proclaims. “In terms of the cooking techniques and the professional approach, that’s for the chef and the owner to decide. I think you have to find your way - you know your own clients and guests. The Michelin committee is very serious and strict, which is great, but I think Michelin should also understand and respect the issues of restaurant owners.” Chef Norbert joined the Michelin Guide Hong Kong Macau Dining Series to showcase a delicate menu at Michelin recommended Italian restaurant Aurora at Altira Macau. That was also in conjunction with Altira Macau’s ‘Sparkling 10’ Chef Series, a month-long culinary celebration marking the hotel’s 10th anniversary in May.

PERFECT PAIRING Michelin Guide Hong Kong Macau Dining Series is a partnership between esteemed fine wine experts Robert Parker Wine Advocate and the iconic guide to dining excellence Michelin Guide. Stemming from a shared passion to showcase the best of the gourmet world, the collaboration of the world’s best gourmet

Essential CHEF

experts brings exceptional, one-of-a-kind culinary experiences to a wider audience. This particular menu featured a delightful 4course lunch or 6-course dinner featuring signature and original creations. “We were trying to bring our philosophy to Macau, show guests what we do, and explain the work behind it. We don’t create dishes just for the sake of creating them - we approach them in a cultural manner and start from nature, with respect to seasonality and the work of the producer. For us, it is very important that every product has a face to it.” Chef Norbert first used the freshest seasonal produce to showcase this menu, which comprised White Fish Tartare, Orzotto with Goat Milk Butter and Lemon Verbena, Beet Gnocci, Ceres’s Suckling Pig and Tarte Tatin. “The beet gnocci is probably one of the most interesting. It uses very simple and inexpensive ingredients, but putting them together in the right way creates an explosion of taste. The special event in Macau may be over but Chef Norbert’s journey never ends. “My next goal is making guests happy and trying to help them understand more about food, including the problems for producers and workers in the industry - from the dishwashers to the servers to the chefs. I want them to really appreciate the work that goes into food,” he concluded. During August, Michelin Guide Hong Kong Macau Dining Series will present the fantastic International Chef Showcase in Hong Kong and Macau, inviting Chef Kazuo Takagi of twoMichelin-starred Kyoto Cuisine Takagi in Ashiya, Japan to prepare a delightful 4-course lunch or 8-course dinner featuring his signature and original creations paired with highly rated wines handpicked by Robert Parker Wine Advocate. The event will take place at Whisk, The Mira Hong Kong on 9th August and at Tenmasa, Altira Macau on 11th August and 12th August. 쐽

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永利荣获胡润总统奖永利皇宫路氹和永利澳门双双荣获胡润百富在上海举办的 2017 年胡润总统奖最尊崇奖项。胡润百富成立于 1999 年，经过多年发展现已成为中国首屈一指的奢侈行业权威媒体。自 2009 年以来，该机构每年都会颁发胡润总统奖，以表彰在中国的优秀酒店物业。永利皇宫路氹凭豪华的住宿、奢华的水疗、精致的餐饮选择和优雅迷人的酒店设施，赢得了澳门最佳宴会场地、澳门最佳行政套房、澳门最佳水疗中心等令人垂涎的头衔。与此同时，永利澳门囊括澳门最佳总统套房奖项，而其擅长正宗中国清代谭家菜的米其林星级餐厅京花轩则被评为澳门最佳餐厅。

Wynn picks up Hurun Presidential Awards Wynn Palace Cotai and Wynn Macau have both received top billing at the 2017 Hurun Presidential Awards in Shanghai organised by the Hurun Report. Established in 1999, the Report has over the years become a leading luxury media authority in China. Since 2009, the organisation has annually presented the Hurun Presidential Awards to recognise outstanding hotel properties in China. Wynn Palace, with its luxury accommodation, lavish spas, fine dining establishments and sophisticated hotel facilities, won the coveted titles of Best Banquet Venue in Macau; Best Executive Suite in Macau; and Best Spa in Macau. Meanwhile, Wynn Macau is home to the Best Presidential Suite in Macau, while its Michelin-starred Golden Flower restaurant, which specialises in Qing Dynasty-era Tan cuisine, has been deemed Best Restaurant in Macau.

环境斗士鹭环海天度假酒店多年来一直支持环境保护。鹭环海天度假酒店获得了 2017 到 2019 年度澳门环保酒店奖银奖及环保支持者奖。澳门环保酒店奖由澳门政府环境保护局（DSPA）主办，澳门政府旅游局协办。该奖项于 2007 年起开始举办，表彰通过可持续和环保的管理实践在能源保护方面作出贡献的澳门酒店。环保支持者奖则表扬持续 9 年参与竞逐并获颁予奖项的该酒店。

Environmental Worrier Grand Coloane Resort has supported environmental protection for several years. Grand Coloane Resort has been recognised by the Macau Green Hotel Award – Silver Category for 2017 to 2019, as well as by the Green Supporter Award. The Macau Green Hotel Awards are organised by the Macau Government Environmental Protection Bureau (DSPA) in collaboration with Macao Government Tourism Office. Launched in 2007, the award recognises the contribution of Macau hotels in energy conservation through sustainable and environmentally conscious management practices. The Green Supporter Award recognises that a hotel has continuously participated in - and been awarded - for nine consecutive years.

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Essential NEWS

夏日购物大激赏为让游客在今夏享受到一个难忘的购物之行，澳门银河推出丰厚的即时大奖为夏日时尚再添一份清爽缤纷，大奖包括时尚汇购物中心现金券价值 100,000 元澳门币，哈根达斯和柠檬车露礼券及其他惊喜。只需购物满 5000 元澳门币起，便可获取代币参加幸运大抽奖。把代币插入一个巨型冰淇淋机内，奖赏即时到手中。游览时尚汇购物中心时，你一定要去参观澳门银河的明珠大堂，来自澳大利亚的空中杂技员将在那里献演 “盛夏飞舞”，于半空中在七彩缤纷的滑翔风筝上翩翩起舞，并且做出各种高难度动作，舞蹈员穿梭于大堂上的海滩小屋与滑浪板布置，带来震撼人心的精彩表演。 “盛夏飞舞 ”于每日下午 1 时至晚上 7 时 30 分进行表演，不容错过！

Win big this Summer In order to provide a memorable shopping experience to all guests this Summer, Galaxy Macau is adding a cool, colourful layer of fun to Summer fashions with attractive instant prizes, including gift certificates valued at up to MOP$100,000 from The Promenade Shops, ice cream vouchers from Häagen-Dazs™ and LemonCello Gelato, and other gift surprises. Simply spend a total of MOP$5,000 or more to get a token for the Instant Reward Lucky Draw. Then insert the token into a giant ice cream machine to receive a ‘scoop’. While strolling through The Promenade Shops be sure to visit Galaxy Macau’s Pearl Lobby, where Australian aerial artists will perform the ‘AeroLove Summer Dance’. For this breathtaking show, aerialists perform mid-air ballet on colorful wind gliders with performers dancing between beach hut installations and kinetic surfboards. Catch the show from 1:00pm to 7:30pm daily.

喜获殊荣今年在北京举行的第七届中国酒店大奖颁奖典礼上，澳门喜来登金沙城中心大酒店、澳门瑞吉金沙城中心酒店总经理麥儷珍（Janet McNab）女士被授予“最佳总经理”称号。 “我们很荣幸地获得了今年的中国酒店大奖奖项，而且不仅仅是一项而是两项殊荣，”麦克纳布女士说，“这些奖项是对我的团队每天努力工作的认可，我们竭尽所能，确保客人入住澳门瑞吉金沙城中心酒店及喜来登大酒店，和我们一起度过的时光，自始至终都能享受到非凡的体验。”

Prestigious accolades awarded At the 7th China Hotel Awards ceremony in Beijing this year, Ms. Janet McNab, Managing Director of Sheraton Grand Macao Hotel, Cotai Central and The St. Regis Macao, Cotai Central was honoured as Best General Manager. “We are honored to have received not just one, but two very prestigious accolades from the China Hotel Awards this year,” Ms. McNab said. “These awards recognise the hard work my team delivers each day to ensure our guests at both The St. Regis Macao and Sheraton Grand Macao Hotel enjoy exceptional experiences throughout their time with us.”

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Project Asia Corporation 十三周年志庆酒会 13th Anniversary Cocktail Party 为庆祝 Project Asia Corporation 传媒集团十三周年誌慶，集团于五月十九日假澳门美高梅酒店维天阁举行鸡尾酒会。作为本地英语商业及时尚传媒的翘楚，出版 Macau Business，商訊，澳門精華，英语日报 Business Daily， MB NewsLetter MB.tv。来自各行各业的杰出人士也有到贺。各宾客当晚享受美酒，雪茄，及本地乐队 The Bridge 的现场爵士乐演奏。当晚更有抽奖节目，抽奖礼品由多个活动赞助商送出。

To celebrate its 13th anniversary, Project Asia Corporation held a cocktail party at The Vista at MGM Macau on May 19, 2017. The pioneer media group is the publisher behind leading local business and lifestyle news publications Macau Business, Business Intelligence, Essential Macau, newspaper Business Daily, MB NewsLetter and online TV MB.tv. The event saw the presence of several distinguished guests from different industries who came to celebrate the group's big night. The guests enjoyed a warm reception in a relaxed evening that included complementary wine, champagne, food, cigars, and pleasant live jazz music from local band The Bridge. The evening also included a lucky draw with prizes provided by the event sponsors.

Project Asia Corporation 营运总监雅士度及公司团队 Paulo A. Azevedo, CEO of Project Asia Corporation and company team

澳门文华东方酒店推广传讯助理总监汤懿筠，推广传讯总监林秀蔚，电子商务及社交媒体助理经理徐文棣 Grace Tong, Cheryl Lum, and Wendi Xu – from Mandarin Oriental Macau

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律师Bruno Ascenção, Clara Ascenção, 澳门旅游娱乐股份有限公司总经理秘书陈瑞娟, 澳门社会文化司司长办公室顾问简博文及太太Ana Mexia Bruno Ascenção, Clara Ascenção, Constance Chan, Rafael Gama and wife

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永利澳门推广传讯副总裁廖晓龄，品牌经理陈妙贞，公关传讯副经理卢敏婷，公关传讯经理钱盈及企业传讯经理卢俊豪 The Wynn Macau Communications team – Katharine Liu (Vice- president), Margaret Chan( Brand marketing manager), Sofia Lou(Assistant Manager), Serena Chin (Manager), Mac Lou (Manager)

澳门保安司司长办公室顧問柯隽乐 Adviser for the Office of the Secretary for Security of Macau, José Luciano Correia de Oliveira

澳门博彩监察协调局局长陈达夫 Director of DICJ, Paulo Martins Chan

澳门新闻局局长陈致平 Director of Government Information Bureau, Victor Chan Chi Ping

澳门中华总商会副理事长黄国胜 Vice-President of Board of Directors of Macau Chamber of Commerce, Vong Kok Seng

澳门悦榕庄市场传讯副经理黄丝祤 The Banyan Tree Assistant Manager of Marketing Communications, Vanessa Wong

IGamiX社长李忠良 Managing partner of IGamiX, Ben Lee

Margaret Chan及JCDecaux助理总监何家驱 Margaret Chan and Grover HO

喷射飞航澳门航线总监伍绍贤 The Turbo Jet Director of Macau Services Division, Alfred Ng

汇智公关有限公司项目总监李雯琪，新葡京酒店市场拓展及品牌策划副总裁赵婴, 澳门旅游娱乐股份有限公司总经理秘书陈瑞娟 Ada Chio de la Cruz , Constance Chan and friend 澳门精华 | 2017年 8月- 9月 | 105

Essential EVENT

澳门文华东方酒店市场及传讯助理总监汤懿筠，电子商务及社交媒体助理经理徐文棣，及新葡京酒店市场拓展及品牌策划副总裁赵婴 Assistant Director of Marketing Communications of Mandarin Oriental Macau, Grace Tong; E-Commerce & Social Media Assistant Manager of Mandarin Oriental Macau, Wendy Xu; Vice president of destination marketing & brand strategy of Grand Lisboa Macau, Ada Chio de la Cruz

Business Daily 澳门商业日报记者余咏诗，威格斯国际物业顾问董事王俊豪，联席董事梁智勇，及经理麦丽玲 Journalist of Business Daily, Cecilia U; Franky C.H. Wong , Kris C.Y. Leung , Kathy L.L. Mak – from Vigers Asia Pacific Limited

宏基行有限公司行政副经理陈铭泽，从Project Asia Corporation 营运总监雅士度手上接过由新濠博亚娱乐送出的抽奖奖品 Vice Administration Manager of Vang Kei Hong Trading co.Ltd, Dominic Chan, receiving the Melco Crown Entertainment, Ltd lucky draw prize from the CEO of Project Asia Corporation, Paulo A. Azevedo

澳门电讯企业传讯总监陈静仪，从永利澳门推广传讯副总裁廖晓龄手上接过由永利澳门送出的抽奖奖品 The CTM Director of Corporate Communications, Eliza Chan, receiving the Wynn Palace lucky draw prize from the Vice president of communications of Wynn Macau, Katharine Liu

喷射飞航澳门航线总监伍绍贤，从澳门电讯企业传讯总监陈静仪手上接过由澳门电讯送出的抽奖奖品 The Turbo Jet Director of Macau Services Division, Alfred Ng, receiving the CTM lucky draw prize from the CTM Director of Corporate Communications, Eliza Chan

高级合规营运经理国领城児，从喷射飞航澳门航线总监伍绍贤手上接过喷射飞航送出的抽奖奖品澳门悦榕庄酒品市场传讯经理黄保祥，从澳门瑞吉及喜来登金沙城中心酒店公共关系总监江慧卿手上接过由澳门瑞吉酒店送出的抽奖奖品 Manager of Marketing Communication of Banyan Tree Macau, Aaron Wong, receiving the St. Regis lucky draw prize from the Director of Public Relations of Sheraton and The St. Regis Macao, Karen Kang

威格斯国际物业顾问联席董事梁智勇，从澳门文华东方酒店推广传讯总监林秀蔚手上接过由文华东方酒店送出的抽奖奖品 The Associate Director of Vigers Asia Pacific Ltd. ,Kris C.Y Leung, receiving the Mandarin Oriental Macau lucky draw prize from the Mandarin Oriental Director of Communications, Cheryl Lum

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澳门法国商会主席温诚睿，从澳门大仓酒店公共关系经理哪娣雅手上接过由大仓酒店送出的抽奖奖品 President of the France Macau Business Association, Rutger Verschuren, receiving the Hotel Okura lucky draw prize from the Hotel Okura public relations manager, Nattiya Chowdee

澳门文华东方酒店电子商务及社交媒体助理经理徐文棣，从商讯主编敦婉雯手上接过Louis Vuitton送出的抽奖奖品 The Mandarin E-Commerce & Social Media Assistant Manager ,Wendy Xu, receiving the Louis Vuitton lucky draw prize from the Editor-in Chief of Business Intelligence, Mandy Kuok

Essential EVENT

澳门电讯企业传讯主任韦旖芯，企业传讯总监陈静仪及澳门美高梅酒店宴会销售经理飞卓迪 Catering Sales Manager of MGM China, Filipe Senna Fernandes; Director of Corporate Communications of CTM, Eliza Chan, and Friend

澳门社会文化司司长办公室顾问简博文，从商讯主编敦婉雯手上接过Louis Vuitton送出的抽奖奖品 The adviser of the Office of the Secretary for Social Affairs and Culture of Macau, Rafael Gama receiving the Louis Vuitton lucky draw prize from the Editor-in Chief of Business Intelligence, Mandy Kuok

Aruze Gaming高级合规营运经理国领城児，从喷射飞航澳门航线总监伍绍贤手上接过喷射飞航送出的抽奖奖品 Operations manager of Aruze Gaming, Joji Kokuryo, receiving the Turbo Jet lucky draw prize from the Turbo Jet Director of Macau Services Division, Alfred Ng

澳门文华东方酒店推广传讯助理总监汤懿筠，从新葡京酒店市场拓展及品牌策划副总裁赵婴手上接过由新葡京酒店送出的抽奖奖品 Assistant Director of Marketing Communications of Mandarin Oriental Macau, Grace Tong, receiving the SJM lucky draw prize from the Vice President of Destination Marketing & Brand Strategy of Grand Lisboa, Ada Chio de la Cruz

澳门大仓酒店公共关系经理哪娣雅，从澳门精华主编刘家扬手上接过澳门十六浦索菲特酒店送出的抽奖奖品 The Hotel Okura public relations manager, Nattiya Chowdee, receiving the Sofitel Ponte 16 Hotel lucky draw prize from the Editor of Essential Macau, Edwina Liu

现场爵士乐队 – The Bridge The live Jazz band – The Bridge

律师高彼涛，从喷射飞航澳门航线总监伍绍贤手上接过喷射飞航送出的抽奖奖品 Lawyer Pedro Cortés receiving the Turbo Jet lucky draw prize from the Turbo Jet Director of Macau Services Division, Alfred Ng

Longines市场营销主任关乐生，从澳门悦榕庄市场传讯经理黄保祥手上接过由澳门悦榕庄酒店送出的抽奖奖品 Sales and Marketing Executive of Longines, Orlando Kuan, receiving the Banyan Tree lucky draw prize from Manager of Marketing Communication of Banyan Tree Macau, Aaron Wong

威格斯国际物业顾问董事王俊豪，从Project Asia Corporation 营运总监雅士度手上接过由DFS送出的抽奖奖品 The Director of Vigers Appraisal and Consulting Ltd. , Franky C.H. Wong, receiving the DFS lucky draw prize from the CEO of of Project Asia Corporation, Paulo A. Azevedo

澳门君悦酒店营业及会议宴会业务总监李锋，从澳门瑞吉及喜来登金沙城中心酒店公共关系总监江慧卿手上接过由澳门喜来登酒店送出的抽奖奖品 The Grand Hyatt Director of sales and events, Carrie Li, receiving the Sheraton Macao lucky draw prize from the Director of Public Relations of Sheraton and The St. Regis Macao, Karen Kang 澳门精华 | 2017年 8月- 9月 | 107

Essential JEWELLERY

奢华精髓 Essential luxuries “精华”指南，澳门顶级购物商场奢靡品牌一网打尽 The Essential guide to luxury brands at Macau’s leading shopping malls

威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian Estrada da Baía de N. Senhora da Esperanca, S/N, Taipa, Macau

永利澳门名店街 Wynn Esplanade Rua Cidade de Sintra, NAPE, Macau

四季‧名店 Shoppes at Four Seasons The Cotai Strip, Estrada da Baía de N. Senhora da Esperanca, S/N, Taipa, Macau

Abiste Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Alfred Dunhill 艾尔弗雷德·登喜路 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 Agnes b. 阿尼亚斯贝 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Aquascutum 雅格狮丹 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Armani Collezioni 阿玛尼黑标 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Audemars Piguet 爱彼表 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

108 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

永利澳门万利酒店 Esplanade at Encore Rua Cidade de Sintra, NAPE, Macau

四季酒店DFS环球免税店 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons

新濠天地 The City of Dreams

The Cotai Strip, Estrada da Baia de N. Senhora da Esperanca, S/N, Taipa, Macau

Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau

金丽华酒店 Grand Lapa Hotel

澳门银河 Galaxy Macau Cotai, Macau

金沙城中心 Sands Cotai Central Estrada da Baia de N. Senhora da Esperanca, S/N, Taipa, Macau

Bally 巴利 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 Bang & Olufsen 奢华视听品牌 B&O One Central 一号广场 Bottega Veneta 宝缇嘉 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心

956-1110 Avenida da Amizade, Macau

一号广场 One Central Avenida de Sagres and Avenida do Dr. Sun Yat Sen, Lot B of Block B of Zone B Nape, Macau

Breguet 宝玑 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Brooks Brothers 布克兄弟 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Burberry 巴宝莉 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地

Brioni 布莱奥尼 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Bulgari 宝格丽 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Boucheron 宝诗龙 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

Canali 康纳利 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Essential RETAIL

Carl F. Bucherer 宝齐莱 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Cartier 卡地亚 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Esplanade at Encore 永利澳门万利酒店

Damiani 达米阿尼 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 Davidoﬀ 大卫杜夫 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 David Yurman 大卫 ·雅曼 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Céline 赛琳 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场

De Beers 戴比尔斯 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店

Cerruti 1881 切瑞蒂 1881 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Diamond SA 南非钻石 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Chanel 香奈儿 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Diane Von Furstenberg 黛安·冯芙丝汀宝 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Chaumet 尚美 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Chloe 蔻依 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Christian Dior 克里斯汀·迪奥 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Chopard 萧邦 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地 Cigar Emporium 雪茄专门店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心 CK Calvin Klein 卡尔文·克莱恩 One Central 一号广场 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Coach 蔻驰 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地 Cole Haan 歌涵 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

DKNY 唐娜·凯伦纽约 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心 Dolce&Gabbana 杜嘉班纳 One Central 一号广场 Emporio Armani 安普里奥 ·阿玛尼 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地 Ermenegildo Zegna 杰尼亚 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Europe Watch Company 欧洲坊 One Central 一号广场

Franck Muller 法蘭穆勒 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Gieves & Hawkes 君皇仕 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Giorgio Armani 乔治·阿玛尼 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Giuseppe Zanotti 朱塞佩· 萨诺第 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Givenchy 纪梵希 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Glashütte Original 格拉苏蒂 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 GoldVish S.A. Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Gucci 古琦 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心 Hermès 爱马仕 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Hublot 宇舶表 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地

Fabio Caviglia 法比奥 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场

Hugo Boss 胡戈· 波士 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 One Central 一号广场 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Fendi 芬迪 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场

IWC 万国表 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河

Ferrari 法拉利 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Jaeger-LeCoultre 积家 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Francesco Biasia Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

澳门精华 | 2017年 8月- 9月 | 109

Essential JEWELLERY Shanghai Tang 上海滩 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Samsonite Black Label 新秀丽黑标 One Central 一号广场 Shiatzy Chen 夏姿·陈 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 S.T. Dupont 法国都彭 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 St. John 圣约翰 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Smalto by Paris Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Jaquet Droz 雅克 ·德罗 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

Miu Miu 缪缪 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Juicy Couture 橘滋 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Montblanc 万宝龙 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场

Kate Spade 凯特· 丝蓓 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Kenzo 高田贤三 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Lancel 兰姿 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 La Perla Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Leonard 李奥纳德 One Central 一号广场 Links of London Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Loro Piana 罗洛·皮雅纳 One Central 一号广场 Louis Vuitton 路易·威登 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Loewe 罗威 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 Luk Fook 六福珠宝 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心 Marc by Marc Jacobs 马克·雅可布之马克 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Marni 玛尼 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Max Mara 麦丝玛拉 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Maubossin 梦宝星 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Mikimoto 御木本珠宝 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Missoni 米索尼 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

110 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Oﬃcine Panerai 沛纳海 One Central 一号广场 Omega 欧米茄 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心 Macau Landmark 澳门置地广场酒店 Macau Square 澳门广场 Pal Zileri 伯爵莱利 One Central 一号广场 Piaget 伯爵 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Esplanade at Encore 永利澳门万利酒店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河

Stefano Ricci 史蒂芬劳·尼治 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Swarovski 施华洛世奇水晶 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Tag Heuer 豪雅 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Thomas Sabo 汤武士世宝 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Tiﬀany & Co. 蒂芙尼 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Tod’s 托德斯 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 Tonino Lamborghini 兰博基尼 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

Prada 普拉达 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Tourneau 唐龙 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

Rado 雷达 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 The City of Dreams 新濠天地

Tudor 帝舵表 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Ralph Lauren 拉夫·劳伦 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地

Vacheron Constatin 江诗丹顿 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店

Rich Jade 富御珠宝 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Richard Mille 瑞驰·迈迪 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Rimowa 日墨瓦 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Roberto Cavalli Class and Cesare Paciotti Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Roger Dubuis 罗杰杜彼 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Rolex 劳力士 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Salvatore Ferragamo 萨尔瓦托勒·菲拉格慕 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地

Van Cleef & Arpels 梵克雅宝 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Versace 范思哲 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Versace Collection 范思哲高级成衣 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 Vertu 沃尔图 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Vivienne Westwood 薇薇恩·韦斯特伍德 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Yves Saint Laurent 伊夫圣罗兰 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Valentino 华伦天奴 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

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