Essential Macau | February - March 2020 by ESSENTIAL MACAU

2020年 2-3月第 54期 No. 54 February - March 2020

奢侈品牌 Luxury brands 推新品贺鼠年 Celebrating CNY

托德斯 Tod’s 意大利精神 Italian spirit

迈凯伦埃尔瓦 McLaren Elva 震撼绝伦的全新超跑 A new kind of amazing

ISSN:2221-1438

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雅士度总监

PAULO A. AZEVEDO DIRECTOR

目光短浅

POOR VISION

澳门开放博彩业以来，一众超豪华综合渡假村纷纷落成，并为城中创造了庞大的大型购物空间，面对如此重要的一个市场，将地区总部设于香港的众多奢侈品牌，却一直对澳门这个小地方不屑一顾。看看某些品牌的业务规模吧，在新八佰伴仅占据一个小柜台的一个知名化妆品品牌，每月便可进账 500万澳门元。如果，扩大售卖空间并将其设于赌场入口旁更豪华的地方呢...... 各奢侈品牌的区域一哥缺乏远见，导致许多品牌选择将区域决策中心移至上海。尽管澳门博彩行业有所放缓，但大部分奢侈品牌仍能从珠三角这个滨海小城中获得丰厚利润。然而，这些品牌本身存在的无知与藐视，仍阻碍着澳门的奢侈品行业发展，同时更阻碍了这些品牌的股东们进一步获益。对处于名利场上的奢侈品行业而言，无论是品牌自身存在的偏见和无知，还是香港的社会动荡，乃至目前因新冠状病毒暴发而引起的公共危机，无一不会为业内带来更多问题。例如， Louis Vuitton路易威登被迫关闭其在香港的一家店铺——这可能不是一个单一案例。来澳旅游的游客数量庞大，且澳门还拥有令人赞叹的优质大众旅游产业，不把赌注压在澳门这样的新兴市场，将被证明是错误的。尽管有高低起落，但在澳门发展良方还是这一条：不断的努力，远见，投资以及持续调整去适应变化的市场。

Luxury brands with regional headquarters in Hong Kong have always shown an indescribable disdain for Macau, even though Macau is of extreme importance to them, especially after the liberalization of the gaming industry and the launching of mega-luxurious Integrated Resorts and the huge retail spaces created in them. To give you an idea of the volume that certain business generate, a well-known cosmetics brand in a small counter in New Yaohan can make as much as MOP 5 million a month. Now, enlarge the space area and place it in a more luxurious place right next a casino entrance... The lack of vision by regional bosses with regards to luxury brands has led many to choose to move their regional decision center to Shanghai. Even with the drop in the gaming sector in Macau, most luxury brands continue to grasp huge gains in this small town in the Pearl River Delta. But disdain and ignorance remain an obstacle, to Macau and especially to the shareholders of those brands. That and the political situation in Hong Kong as well as possibly - hopefully not - this new public health crisis with yet another outbreak of pneumonia (coronavirus) will bring more headaches to everyone who opted to sit in the shadow of fame. Louis Vuitton was for instance forced to close one of its stores in Hong Kong, and this will probably not be the only case. Not betting on emerging markets like Macau – with enormous tourism numbers and quite an impressive premium mass tourism – will prove to be a mistake. The recipe in this town continues to be the same, despite ups and downs: continuous effort, vision, investment and permanent adaptation to market conditions.

专题特写 FEATURES 10

活动 Art 年轻有才艺术家张可的故事

KAY ZHANG, THE STORY OF A YOUNG AND TALENTED ARTIST

展览 Exhibition 伦敦泰特现代美术馆举办安迪·沃霍尔回顾大展

LONDON’S TATE MODERN WELCOMES MAJOR "ANDY WARHOL" EXHIBITION

名表 Watches 朗格推出全新Odysseus腕表

A. LANGE & SÖHNE PRESENTS THE ODYSSEUS

室内设计 Interiors 《精华》杂志独家访谈世界著名室内设计师亚历山德拉·尚帕利莫

ESSENTIAL SPOKE TO RENOWNED INTERIOR DESIGNER ALEXANDRA CHAMPALIMAUD

人物 Personality 迭戈·迪拉·维利：奢侈品牌Tod’s托德斯的幕后大帅

DIEGO DELLA VALLE: THE MAN BEHIND TOD'S

鞋履 Shoes 吉安维托·罗西，传承家族造鞋传统

GIANVITO ROSSI, KEEPING THE LEGACY

时尚 Style

时尚热选：Max Mara泰迪熊系列产品

MAX MARA TEDDY BEAR COAT, AN ICON OF STYLE

时装 Fashion 叛逆，叛逆

REBEL, REBEL

潮流 Trends 2020年秋冬男装系列

MEN'S COLLECTIONS FOR THE FALL/WINTER SEASON

名车 Auto 迈凯伦埃尔瓦：震撼绝伦的全新超跑

MCLAREN ELVA, A NEW KIND OF AMAZING

康健 Wellbeing 发现Buathon Thienarrom为压力人士创制的神奇疗法

DISCOVERING THE MAGIC TREATMENTS OF DR BUATHON THIENARROM FOR THE DISTRESSED

奢品 Luxury 各大奢侈品牌推出鼠年特别版新品迎新春

LUXURY BRANDS WELCOME CNY WITH SPECIAL-EDITION YEAR OF THE RAT PRODUCTS

美容 Beauty 护肤品牌Purearth的创始人Kavita Khosa揭示其品牌的根源

KAVITA KHOSA, FOUNDER OF PUREARTH, REVEALS THE GENESIS OF HER BRAND

美食 Menu 「澳门银河」推出全新中医养生能量补给菜单

GALAXY MACAU PRESENTS A NEW MENU INSPIRED BY CHINESE MEDICINE

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餐厅 Restaurant Tate Dining Room＆Bar为客提供精致法中Fusion融合美食

THE TATE DINING ROOM & BAR IS AN ECLECTIC MIX FRENCH AND CHINESE CUISINE

6 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2020 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

创办人 Founding partners Bruce Hawker - bruce.h@essentialmacau.com Paulo A. Azevedo - pazevedo@essentialmacau.com 总监及出版人 Director and publisher Paulo A. Azevedo - pazevedo@essentialmacau.com 国际编辑 International editor Fernando Caetano - fcaetano@essentialmacau.com 编辑助理 Editorial Coordinator Cátia Matos - catia.matos@open-media.net 編輯 Editor Paulo A. Azevedo - pazevedo@essentialmacau.com 外套 Jacket: Luis Carvalho 夹克、长裤 Blazer and trousers: 德赖斯·范诺顿 Dries Van Noten 帽子 Hat: Carlos Gil 方巾 Kerchief: 制作人私伙 production’s own

摄影及助理 PHOTOGRAPHY: PEDRO FERREIRA, ASSISTED BY ANA VIEGAS 模特 MODEL: MARIA BELOKRYLOVA (WE ARE MODELS)

活动及特别项目策划 Events and special projects Victoria Man - vman@macausignature.com 高级美术总监 Senior Art director João Cardoso 广告营运部 Advertising sales

集团成员公司及办事处 Group companies and offices 澳门 Macau - Global Asia Media Ltd. 澳门马揸度博士大马路679号, 南方工业大厦第三座9楼Ｈ座 Block C, Floor 9H - Edif. Ind. Nam Fong Nº 679 Av. Dr. Francisco Vieira Machado Macau SAR +853 2833 1258 电话：(phone) +853 2833 1487 传真：(fax) Portugal - Open Media S.A. Apartado 59 Parque Empresarial Algarve 7 8401-901 Lagoa UK - Open Media Ltd. Open Media Ltd. 40 Craven Street Charing Cross London WC2N 5NG 《澳门精华》欢迎投稿及惠赐广告，但稿件之选刊须以本刊编辑方针为准。若希望有关材料获退还，需于投寄时附上回邮信封。《澳门精华》对广告内容概不负责。 Essential Macau welcomes all contributions but under its editorial guidelines. Materials must be accompanied by self-addressed stamped envelopes if they are to be returned. Essential Macau assumes no responsibility for content of advertisements.

澳门 Macau +853 2833 1258 +853 2870 5909 essential@projectasiacorp.com 战略营销伙伴 Strategic marketing partner Derrick Tran - derrick.tran@projectasiacorp.com

订阅优惠 Subscription 《澳门精华》为奢华时尚双月刊，现读者可以下列优惠价格订阅共6期：香港澳门地区：港币210元；亚洲地区：25美元(空邮)；世界其他国家和地区：30美元 (空邮)。 To receive a copy of this bi-monthly luxury lifestyle magazine, subscribe to Essential Macau for just HKD 210 for Hong Kong and Macau (6 issues), US$ 25 for Asia (by airmail), and US$ 30 for the rest of the world (by airmail). 所有材料 2011 Global Asia Media Ltd版权所有 All materials COPYRIGHT 2011 Global Asia Media Ltd (ISSN): 2221-1438 严禁部分或全部复制本刊内容。 Reproduction in part or in full is strictly prohibited.

8 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2020 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

特约撰稿人 Contributing writers Catarina Vasques Rito, Cátia Matos, César Brigante, Edwina Liu, Guilherme Marques, Irene Sam 特约摄影师 Contributing photographers Pedro Ferreira 中文翻译及校对 Chinese language translator/proofreader PROMPT Editorial Services 翻译：韩珺，吴炜声校译：黎庄琳，徐彩燕澳门发行 Distribution in Macau Michael Rimando - mrimando@essentialmacau.com

《澳门精华》由Global Asia Media Ltd出版， Global Asia Media Ltd为 Essential Macau is published by Global Asia Media Ltd, a company owned by:

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无惧禁忌大胆创作 Audacious endeavors 在澳门的创意和艺术圈子里，张可是个熟悉的名字。她年轻、有才华、成熟且聪慧，如今穿梭在澳门与北京之间，在国际著名导师的指导下攻读博士学位 — —她的其中一位导师是徐冰，中国当代艺术家、中央美术学院副院长 In Macau’s creative and artistic community, Kay Zhang is a familiar name. Young, talented, sophisticated and intelligent, she spends her time between Macau and Beijing, working on a doctorate degree under world famous mentors among them is contemporary Chinese artist and vice-president of the Central Academy of Fine Arts, Xu Bing 文/by IRENE SAM

张

可生于 1991 年，目前也是澳门大学的艺术讲师，并且是获得杰出亚洲艺术奖 (Sovereign Asian Art Prize)提名的最年轻澳门艺术家。张可毕业于中央美术学院实验艺术学院，在作画的同时也制作手工书。“我自小就想成为一名画家，而全赖父母全力支持我，我才能将绘画作为终身从事的职业。”她坦承说。她的首次个人展——《纯真百科》，是她作为女性的生活呈现，以及反映出她如何理解艺术中的性主题以及艺术家们在私人空间时的内在自我。张可认为，经典画作中的裸体就是与肉欲有关。作为一名艺术家，她不

orn in 1991, Zheng is also an Art Professor at the University of Macau, and the youngest Macao artist nominated by Sovereign Asian Art Prize. Graduated from the Experimental School of Arts at the China Central Academy of Fine Art, Kay is a painter and book-maker. “Ever since I was a child, I knew I wanted to become a painter, but the pursuit of it as a lifelong profession came because I had the full support of my parents”, she admits. Her first solo exhibition, “Innocencepedia”, is manifestation of her life as a woman and how she perceives sexuality in art and artists’ inner self in private domains. To Zhang, nudity 10 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2020 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential ART

澳门精华 | 2020年 2月- 3月 | 11

Essential ART

仅对此不否认，还特意创作解放肉欲的影像，而不是让人规避这个主题。由于性常常让人联想到色情或猥亵，我们的社会一般都对性避而不谈；然而，事实是，人类从小时候就已对自己的身体充满好奇。在她眼中，《纯真百科》展出的每件作品犹如百科全书中的每一个条目，充斥着她对性的各种天马行空的想象。至于纯真与否，就由观众自行判断。这次首展，许多展品都表现着性的愉悦和兴奋，以书本形式呈现，配有精致的绘画和细致的装饰，有着经典的风格，而不可否认的是，她通过这个大胆的主题非常清晰地表达了自己想要表达的东西。 “创作个人首展并向全世界展示，就像完全暴露自己。对我而言这是一项很个人的经历，至于观众能否与展览产生联系则留待他们自行判断了。作为女性，我经历了人生的一些阶段，并想在自己准备好且具备足够的胆量时，能够勇敢地说出自己的故事。”张可解释说。 12 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2020 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

张可是一名艺术家，但她首先是一个人，这点对她而言很重要。她在 2019 年有了第二个展览，其中探索了她与父亲之间有意识和无意识的关系。“我爸爸一直希望生个男孩，结果我却是个女孩。所以他决定将我当成男孩来抚养。有些事情我想和他交流，但不是通过言语。因此，《与父书》这个展览是我的沟通工具。”她指出。如果《纯真百科》是极富装饰性的，那《与父书》的特色就是用直线条勾画出犹如画框的图形。画框对称且井然有序，并带有详尽的规格，这些画框通常出现在古老、庄严的祭坛画中，这些作品一般是放在教堂前面，描绘着圣母玛利亚或耶稣的故事。透过展示三幅充满神圣感的祭坛画形式作品，《与父书》表达出她渴望被理解的心情。“我爸爸不是那种会展露自己情感的人，所以在展览结束之后，从他身上不会观察到什么。他看完展览后可能会产生一些情感，但如果真的如此，他也只会藏在心里。”张可如此猜测。

in classical paintings is linked to carnal desire. An artist who does not deny this notion, she deliberately creates images to liberalize desire rather than deterring someone from the subject matter. Our society shies away from talking about sex, as it is often associated with pornography or obscenity. Yet, it is a fact that humans are curious about their own body even at a young age. Considering her works as the elements of an encyclopedia in “Innocencepedia”, she exposes her own imagination and fantasy about sex, but it is up to the viewer of her work to determine whether they are innocent or not. Sexual pleasures and excitements are present in many articles of her first exhibition. While the work, presented in a book format, looks stylistically classical, with its exquisite drawings and detailed embellishment, the clarity of what Zhang is trying to express through the audacious theme is undeniable. “Creating my first exhibition and showing it to the world is like exposing my whole being, it is a very personal experience to me, but it is up to the audience to see whether they could relate to it. As a woman, I go through stages in my life and I want to be brave enough to tell my story when I am ready and audacious enough to do so”, she explains. For Zhang, it is important to be understood as an artist as well as a human being. She had a second exhibition in 2019, which explored her conscious and unconscious relationship with her father. “My father always wanted to have a boy, but I turned out to be a girl, and he decided to raise me as a boy when I was growing up. There are things I would like to communicate to him, but not with words. Therefore, ‘Daddy Exhibition’ serves as a communicative tool for me”, she indicates. If “Innocencepedia” was highly decorative, “Daddy Exhibition” was characterized by straight lines that mimic a frame. Symmetrical and orderly frames with detailed specifications are usually associated with old religious solemn altarpieces. Usually, these are placed in front of a church depicting stories of the Virgin Mary or Jesus. Eagerness to be understood is conveyed through three works drawn in the form of an altarpiece which exudes sacredness. “My father is not someone who reveals his emotions, so there was not much to observe from him after the exhibition had ended. He might have some emotions, but if he does he keeps them to himself”, she assumes. While artistic creation is her main vocation, Zhang feels fortunate to have a stable teaching job at the University of Macau which provides her with an income. “I have always taken my teaching position at the university seriously, but I'm finding it increasingly more and more meaningful. In a way, through teaching art appreciation, I am shaping the society. It is like

Essential ART

尽管艺术创作才是张可的主业，她仍感觉很幸运能在澳门大学获得稳定的教职工作，因为这让她有固定收入。“我一直都很重视我在大学的工作，而且我越来越觉得这项工作意义非凡。从某种角度看，我执教艺术欣赏课，意味着我正在塑造社会，像是为日后盛放的花朵提供恰当的土壤。作为艺术家，我很进取，在我人生的各个阶段我都将会创作不同类型的艺术，这些艺术品会成为我人生的足迹，而教学对我来说同样重要，因为这会影响下一代人。” “在现代社会，学习艺术不一定会让人获得一套生存技能。作为一名教育者，我非常开心能分享我对美术的想法与见解，但许多学生可能无法理解一些细微之处。我只希望通过教学，让学生对艺术产生兴趣并开始与艺术世界建立联系。”张可说。无论是教学还是艺术创作，张可都认为自己是一名女性艺术家和导师，但她认为，女性不需要在艺术领域拥有优势，也无须区别看待男女艺术家。张可认为：“在过去，人们想到女性艺术家时就会联想到弗里达· 卡罗之类，因为那时人们认为女性艺术家都有着很强的个性，但随着时间推移，女性艺术家不再是 “稀有品种 ”，而且她们对艺术有着独特的见解。” 在下一个展览，张可准备以艺术作品匹配诗词。对于言语表达和视觉表达，张可同样喜欢，而她渴望将她在阅读诗词时产生的想象入画，以大型画作的形式表达出来。“每当我读诗，相关形象就会立即浮现脑海。我喜欢情诗，因为情诗饱含强烈的情感，深受感动之余我渴望把它们画出来，并想分享这种感受。” “这次我会选用大型布面进行绘画，因为我想引起观众的注意。视觉效果需要非常强烈震撼，以便引人注目，然后才能吸引观者去接近作品及尝试去理解作品。这是一项挑战，因为只有知识的人才能理解作品，但如果有恰当的技巧，像看视觉效果般艺术也可以只欣赏表面，”张可说。 쐽

From education to art, Zhang considers herself a female artist and professor, but does not believe that women should have an edge or be considered in a different way than men. “When one thought of female artists in the past, a name like Frida Kahlo would pop up because female artists were seen as women with a strong personality, but as time goes on, female artists are not rare anymore, and they have their unique approach to art”, she believes. In her next exhibition, Zhang will pair artwork with poetry. A lover of verbal as well as of visual expression, she feels the urge to communicate her imaginative ideas acquired from reading poetry into artworks that can be appreciated through a large canvas format. “When I read a poem, an image immediately comes into the mind. I like love poems because there are strong emotions behind them. Through emotions I feel the desire to paint and I want to share this feeling.” “I chose to paint on large canvases this time, because I want to grab the audiences’ attention. The visuals should be strong enough to attract stares and glances before anyone starts to approach the art pieces and try to understand them. This is a challenge because interpreting a work requires someone with knowledge, but if one has the right skills, art could be appreciated on the superficial level just as a visual effect as well”, she comments. 쐽

providing the right soil for flowers to grow in the future. As an artist, I am ambitious, and during various moments of my life I am going to make different types of art. These artworks will become traces of my life, but teaching is just as important to me, if not more, because it will affect the next generation.” “In our modern society, learning about art does not necessarily mean that one would acquire a certain set of survival skills. As an educator, I am very happy to share my thoughts and interpretations about fine arts, but many students might not be able to understand the nuances. It is only my hope that through lectures they will become curious and start to connect themselves with the artistic world”, she says. 澳门精华 | 2020年 2月- 3月 | 13

Self Portrait 1986

安迪 ·沃霍尔的世界 The world of Warhol 伦敦泰特现代美术馆(Tate Modern)举办重大的安迪 · 沃霍尔回顾展 The Tate Modern in London receives the major “Andy Warhol” retrospective exhibition 文/by CÁTIA MATOS 14 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2020 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential EXHIBITION

集了美国波普 “安艺迪术·沃家霍安尔迪回·沃顾霍展尔”汇(Andy Warhol)的

ringing together more than 100 works that reflect the trajectory of one of the most widely recognised artists of the late 20th century, "Andy Warhol" will be on display between 12 March and 6 September at The Eyal Ofer Galleries at London’s Tate Modern. This huge retrospective is the artist's first major exhibition at the British museum in more than 20 years. Besides the iconic pop art images of Marylin Monroe, Coca-Cola and Campbell's soup cans, the exhibit also includes works by Warhol never before seen in the UK. An example of this are the 25 works belonging to the "Ladies and

100 多件作品，展示这位 20 世纪后期广受赞誉的艺术家的创作轨迹。展览将于今年 3 月 12 日至 9 月 6 日在伦敦泰特现代美术馆的 The Eyal Ofer Galleries 展厅展出。这个大型回顾展是该著名艺术家 20 多年来在泰特现代美术馆的首个大展。除了波普艺术标志性图像包括《玛丽莲梦露》《可口可乐》《坎贝尔汤罐》等，展览还展出沃霍尔在英国从未亮相过的作品，包括属于《女士和先生们》系列的 25 幅作品——即黑人和拉丁裔易装皇后以及变性女人的画像。 Debbie Harry 1980

Flowers 1964

澳门精华 | 2020年 2月- 3月 | 15

Essential EXHIBITION

Sixty Last Suppers 1986

Marilyn Diptych 1962

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Essential EXHIBITION

参观者还可以玩玩《银云》，或体验《不可避免的塑料爆炸》 (The Exploding Plastic Inevitable）的迷幻世界。后者是沃霍尔在 1966 年至 1967 年之间创作的融合了音乐、电影的另类多媒体艺术展演。展览由泰特现代美术馆和科隆路德维希博物馆主办，加拿大多伦多安大略美术馆和美国达拉斯艺术博物馆合办，由泰特现代美术馆国际艺术收藏部总监格里格 ·缪尔 (Gregor Muir)、泰特现代美术馆助理策展人菲

奥坦·莫兰(Fiontán Moran)、以及分别为路德维希博物馆 20 世纪艺术品收藏部总监和策展人的 Yilmaz Dziewior 和 Stephan Diederichg 共同策展。展览制备了一本图文并茂的展览目录，其中收录了与任《访谈》（Interview）杂志编辑 12 年之多的鲍勃 ·科拉切洛（Bob Colacello）的访谈，他对安迪·沃霍尔具争议性的神秘艺术工作室 “工厂 ”有着深刻的了解，展览让观众深入认识沃霍尔及其作品是怎样开创波普艺术发展新时代。

Gentlemen" collection – portraits of black and Latino drag queens and transsexual women. Visitors can also play with the "Silver Clouds" or experience the psychedelic world of "Exploding Plastic Inevitable", an alternative show of art, music and cinema, created by Warhol between 1966 and 1967. Organised by Tate Modern and the Museum Ludwig in Cologne, and in collaboration with the Art Gallery of Ontario, Toronto and the Dallas Museum of Art, this exhibition is curated by Gregor Muir, Director of Collection, International Art at Tate Modern, Fiontán Moran, assistant curator at the Tate Modern, and Yilmaz Dziewior and Stephan Diederich, director and curator, respectively, of the collection of 20thcentury art at Museum Ludwig. Accompanied by an illustrated catalogue, which includes an interview with Bob Colacello, editor of Interview magazine for 12 years and who has a deep understanding of Andy Warhol's mythical and controversial art studio, The Factory, the exhibit offers visitors a rare insight into how Warhol and his work marked a period of cultural transformation.

泰特现代美术馆展厅：The Eyal Ofer Galleries 地址：Bankside, London(伦敦泰晤士河南岸)

Tate Modern The Eyal Ofer Galleries Bankside, London 쐽

Hammer and Sickle 1976

Boy with Flowers 1955-7

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Essential WATCHES

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Essential WATCHES

朗格推出全新 Odysseus 腕表 Odysseus, a new Lange family A. Lange＆Söhne 朗格推出 Odysseus 腕表，开启品牌历史新篇 A. Lange and Söhne presents the Odysseus model and kicks off a new chapter in the history of the manufacturer 文/by CÁTIA MATOS

. Lange＆Söhne朗格新近发布Odysseus 腕表，这是品牌的首枚精钢表。 Odysseus尤为重要，其发布标志着品牌第六个系列的诞生，因为它为著名的德国钟表制造商朗格增添新概念。 Odysseus腕表拥有运动型外观，又不失品牌的优雅精髓，特别适合活力好动的高级表迷。 Odysseus 表径 40.5mm，厚度 11.5mm，配备不锈钢表带。其亮点包括朗格的传统制表工

. Lange & Söhne recently presented Odysseus, the first of its watches made from stainless steel. This model, which marks the birth of the brand’s sixth collection, is particularly important because it adds a new concept to the prominent German brand. With a sporty look without losing the elegance that defines the brand, it is especially suited to fine watch lovers with a very active lifestyle.

澳门精华 | 2020年 2月- 3月 | 19

Essential WATCHES

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Essential WATCHES

艺元素，全都以最原始方式重新演绎。腕表表采用深蓝色表盘，表盘为多层设计，呈不同的表面，并且指针比品牌其他款式更大更显眼。全新 Odysseus 使用 L155.1 DATOMATIC 型机芯。朗格特别为它研发了这款机芯，其中心摆轮沿同一方向摆动，以铂金制成。腕表动力储备 50 小时，自动上链机芯以手工装饰

和组装，设有大视窗星期和日期显示。旋入式表冠，防水深度 120 米。还值得一提的是， Odysseus 腕表的抗震摆轮配四颗平衡螺丝。带扣是安全的，带有精密调节机构。表扣处还有可拉出或推入表链的微调装置，无需打开扣子即可微调表链长短，十分贴心。 쐽

Both the case, with a 40.5mm diameter and 11.5mm thick, and the strap are made of stainless steel. Highlights include the watchmaker’s traditional elements, which are reinterpreted here in a very original way. The watch presents a dark blue dial with various levels, each with different surface finishes, and the hands are more prominent than in the brand’s other models. This model also introduces the new calibre, the L155. 1 DATOMATIC, developed by the manufacturer specifically for the Odysseus, is

defined by its central rotor which winds in one direction, with a centrifugal mass made of platinum. With a 50-hour power reserve, the automatic movement, decorated and assembled by hand, features oversized day and date windows. The Odysseus also has a screw-down crown and is waterproof to 120m. Also worthy of mention is the shock-resistant balance with four poising crews. The buckle is safety-deployant, with a precision adjustment mechanism. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2020年 2月- 3月 | 21

Essential INTERIORS

永不言败 Winning spirit 亚历山德拉·尚帕利莫(Alexandra Champalimaud)是世界上最著名的室内设计师之一。她在与《澳门精华》的独家访谈中分享自己 30 多年来的职业道路 Recognised worldwide, Alexandra Champalimaud is one of the most well-known figures in her area. In an exclusive conversation with Essential, the interior designer revealed her career path spanning over 30 years 文/by CÁTIA MATOS

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帕利莫来自葡萄牙，当她准备在祖国开创自己的生活时，命运让她发生了翻天覆地的变化。那是在 1974 年，当时葡萄牙正在发生推翻统治政权的“康乃馨革命”，年轻的尚帕利莫和她当时的丈夫被迫背井离乡，来到加拿大蒙特利尔居住。她当时在里斯本还在进修一个设计与艺术史课程并创作了一些作品，而突然来到北美的她，真的不敢想象等待着她的将是什么。如今，尚帕利莫已是全球最闻名的室内设计师之一，她著名的尚帕利莫设计工作室 (Champalimaud Design)位于纽约。她承认 22 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2020 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

“事情并非总是容易的”，但按部就班地，就会开始看到成果。“坦白地说，最终结果是个愉快的惊喜。我从未想过我会有如此成就，如今全世界都有我的作品，”她透露说。其中她最新的项目是那神话般的新加坡莱佛士酒店 (Raffles Hotel)— — 她和她的团队对酒店进行了长时间的精心翻新修缮。我在加拿大度过了 20 年，直到一个机会的到来，让我实现了美国梦。“我之前在加拿大的尚帕利莫设计工作室在蒙特利尔当地及其郊区都非常有名。从 1986 年起，我开始参加一些国际赛事并夺得各种设计项目。做这

estiny turned her life upside down when she was preparing to build her life in Portugal, her country of origin. It was 1974, in the middle of the revolution against the regime in force in Portugal, when the young Alexandra Champalimaud was forced with her then husband to leave the country and live in Montreal, Canada. With a course in Design and Art History and some works done in Lisbon, the interior designer headed for the North America, and could not even have imagined what the world held in store for her.

Essential INTERIORS

些事好些年并取得国际成就之后，我觉得也许自己有机会在美国发展。后来我夺得了纽约瑞士酒店和波士顿瑞士酒店两个项目，这开启了我在美国的事业发展。我在纽约越来越成功，并在当地成立了公司。” 尚帕利莫见证了 911 事件，对其灾难性后果更有切身体会。“对我们所有人来说都是一次很恐怖的经历。我看到第二架飞机撞上大楼。另外，当时我的公司正在负责重新设计世贸中心里的万豪酒店。那天早上，我团队的两名同事正在搭乘的士前往酒店，怎料酒店被毁了。”尽管失去了一些重要项目，尚帕

Recognised worldwide as one of the most famous personalities in the interior design area, the founder of the renown atelier Champalimaud Design based in New York, admits that “it wasn’t always easy”, but step-by-step things began to happen. “I can frankly say that it has proved an pleasant surprise. I never thought to have got this far, with works all over the world”, she reveals. Proof of this was her latest project, the mythical Raffles Hotel in Singapore which was the target of a careful and lengthy renovation by the designer and her team.

For 20 years she was in Canada until an opportunity arose to fulfil the ‘American Dream’. “Champalimaud Design, in Canada was highly recognised locally in Montreal and its outskirts. In 1986 I began to compete in international competitions and won various projects. After some years of doing this and achieving international success I thought that perhaps I stood a chance in the United States. The two projects that I won in the country (Swissotel) New York and Swissotel Boston) signalled the start of my career in the USA.

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Essential INTERIORS

利莫没有认输。她骨子里充满着奋斗精神，同时也懂得感恩。“一点点地，一切逐渐恢复（… … ）现在我在全球有着很高知名度，对此我深怀感恩。” 尚帕利莫现在管理着 55 人的团队，并有 4 位已经合作 20 载的“卓越非凡的”合伙人。她透露说，成功的秘诀在于与合适的人共事。但这还不足够 … … “人格和职业操守也不可或缺。价值观极其重要。拥有才华、能力和资历很重要，但不代表一切。别人一定很相信我们，所以才会把千百万计的美元（或欧元）

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投入到项目中并让我们负责。我们必须担起责任，投入到这些价值中从而产出成果。我们必须想别人所想，理解他们的期望、预算和需求。我知道我能够在美学上创造他们需要的东西，这是我自知擅长的，而这一直以来都极为重要。” 如今，绽放尚帕利莫设计天赋光华并已开业的著名酒店数不胜数。她的工作室负责过无数项目，例如迈阿密康莱德酒店（美国迈阿密）、时代广场希尔顿酒店（美国纽约）、雅加达四季酒店（印尼雅加达）、贝莱尔酒店

I was becoming increasingly successful in New York and established a company there.” She witnessed September 11 and felt up close the consequences of that tragic date. “It was a horror for all of us. I saw the second plane fly into the tower. Moreover, my company has been redesigning the Marriott Hotel in the World Trade Centre. That morning two people in my team were on their way to that hotel by taxi, the hotel that was destroyed.” Despite losing some important projects, she didn’t

Essential INTERIORS

（美国洛杉矶）、波士顿文华东方酒店（美国波士顿）、新加坡莱佛士酒店（新加坡）、北京瑞吉酒店（中国北京）、卡莱尔酒店（美国纽约）、吉隆坡丽思卡尔顿酒店（马来西亚吉隆坡）、华尔道夫酒店（美国纽约）等等。 “对我来说，所有项目都极其重要。我对选择我们的人充满敬意，因为他们不仅知道我们有才华，也知道我们有组织力和能力创造出经久传承的奢华酒店。” 尽管她说她对自己所有的室内设计作品都同等喜欢，但她也表示对最近完成的项目情有独钟。“我们刚完成了我最爱的项目—— 新加坡莱佛士酒店。这是个无与伦比的项目。酒店面积覆盖了新加坡的三个街区。我们的工作从六年前就开始了，最近终于完工。” 在这项目中，尚帕利莫充分尊重酒店内部设计的历史，同时将自己的设计特点融入其中。 “像新加坡莱佛士这样的酒店有其自身的个性和历史，我不会改变它们。我需要做的只是为这壮观建筑的未来助力。这就是我努力

throw in the towel. Her fighter spirit runs in her veins but gratitude too. “Little by little everything recovered(...) Today I have enormous recognition from the entire world for which I am very grateful.” She managed a team today of 55 and has four “extraordinary” partners that have been with her for two decades. She reveals that the secret of success lies in working with the right people. But not just that... “Personal and professional integrity are also required. One of the most important things to have are values. Having talent, abilities and qualifications is important but it is not everything. People must trust in us because they are handing over millions and millions of dollars (or euros) for a project and we are responsible for this. We must take responsibility to invest in these values in order to get results at the end. We must put ourselves in other people’s shoes to

understand their wishes, budgets and what they need done. I know in terms of the aesthetic I can create something they need, and this is the talent that I know that I have, and this has been super important.” The list of famous hotels that have already been opened and toasted with her talent goes to show. Conrad Miami Hotel (Miami, USA), Hilton Times Square (New York, USA), Four Seasons Jakarta (Jakarta, Indonesia), Hotel Bel-Air (Los Angeles, USA), Mandarin Oriental Hotel Boston (Boston, USA), Raffles Hotel Singapore (Singapore), St. Regis Beijing (Peking, China), The Carlyle (New York, USA), The Ritz Carlton Kuala Lumpur (Kuala Lumpur, Malasia) and the Waldorf Astoria (New York, USA) are some examples of the countless projects from her atelier. “For me, all are of huge importance. I have immense respect for people who choose us because they

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的方向。当然，其中会有我自己的一些品味和看事物的角度，然而，我充分保持了酒店原有的个性。” 尚帕利莫强调她并不注重品牌形象，不会刻意让别人一眼就认出她的作品。然而，在她的创作中一直具有某种连贯一致性。 “人们通常会说我的风格复杂精致，并能创造出一种怡人舒适的氛围。不会过时也是我的设计特点之一。” 当媒体还在大量评论她的新加坡项目时，尚帕利莫还有其他项目要跟进，例如洛杉矶的比佛利山庄酒店、伦敦的克拉里奇酒店和希思罗丽柏酒店，还有在葡萄牙的最新项目。

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not only know that we have the talent, but also the organisation and capacity to be able to create a luxurious hotel that will last for decades. Although she says she likes all the interiors she creates equally, she says she has a soft spot for the last project in which she was involved. “We have just completed my favourite project, the Raffles Singapore. It was something magnificent. It spans three blocks of the city Work began six years ago and was completed recently.” In this project, Alexandra has respected the history of the interiors, but has also put a little of her own hallmark on the

project. “A hotel like Raffles Singapore has its own personality and history and I was not going to change that. What I had to do was to contribute to the future of this marvellous establishment. And that’s what I’ve tried to do. Of course, it has a little of my taste and my way of seeing things, however, the respect for its personality has been maintained. She is emphatic that she doesn’t favour any brand image so that her work can be immediately identifiable, however there is a coherence that runs through her creative work. “Usually, they say that I have a sophisticated style and

Essential INTERIORS

尽管她的事业都围绕在酒店设计上，还有住宅开发以及她这些年来赢得的奖项和荣誉，尚帕利莫毫不掩饰她对产品设计的偏爱。她目前更注重的领域就是产品设计，对其有着特别的钟爱之情。“我有过一些发挥创意的时刻。最近我与纽约的 Salon Art + Design（沙龙艺术+艺术）合作创作一个家具系列，而目前也在为地毯公司 The Rug Company 设计一些地毯和为 Holland & Sherry （荷兰雪莉）设计织物。” 谈到未来，尚帕利莫很开心能够继续做更多产品设计。至于会否回归祖国葡萄牙，她毫不犹豫地说：“我当然会回去的！”虽然家乡的房子还在建设中，但回家之路早已铺好。 쐽

that I create inviting and cosy ambiances. Timelessness is also another of my hallmarks.” Still riding on the crest of the media wave the Singapore project brought her, Alexandra still has some projects on the back burner for the Beverly Hills Hotel in Los Angeles, for Claridge’s Hotel in London and for the Park Inn Hotel also in London. And, in Portugal which is another of her current projects Despite her career centred on hotel design, as well as residential developments, and all of the awards and distinctions she has won over the years, the interior designer doesn’t hide her predilection for product design, an

area in which she is more focused at the moment and for which she has a special fondness. “I have had some moments of creativity. I recently worked on a line of furniture for Salon Art + Design of New York and I am also doing a design for some carpets for The Rug Company and for textiles design for Holland & Sherry.” As to the future, Alexandra is happy to continue to do more product design. As to possibly returning to her country of origin, she doesn’t hesitate: “Well of course I will return!” Her house is still under construction, but the certainty of returning has long been built. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2020年 2月- 3月 | 29

Essential PERSONALITY

意大利精神 Italian Spirit 迪拉 ·维利是意大利商界最响当当的人物之一，尤以其高雅的品味和君子风格而闻名遐迩。他是时尚界著名奢侈品牌 Tod’s 托德斯的创始人，也是这个标榜“ 意大利制造 ”的品牌和意大利的坚定支持者。他认为自己的成功在很大程度上都要归功于祖国意大利 Known for his class and style, Della Valle is one of the most charismatic names in Italian business. Creator of the iconic gomminos at the root of Tod's, one of the most important luxury brands in the field of fashion, he is a staunch supporter of the ‘Made in Italy’ brand and of his country, to which, he admits, he owes much of his success 文/by CÉSAR BRIGANTE

迭

戈·迪拉·维利（Diego Della Valle）是意大利最杰出的商界人物之一。万贯家财令他自然跻身于意大利最富有和最有影响力的人物之列。他与弟弟安德烈一样，兴趣广泛，从金融到时尚等各个领域都有涉猎，并持有 Bialetti、Piaggio、RCS、Mediobanca 和 Marcolin 等公司的股份。他也曾担任过一些意大利顶级公司的董事会成员；但如今只保留了在路威酩轩（LVMH）奢侈品集团董事会的职务，也依旧是该公司的股东。兄弟二人还是 ACF 佛罗伦萨足球俱乐部（ACF Fiorentina football club）的老板， 2002 年，他们挽救了即将破产的该俱乐部，并于 2019 年夏天以 1600 万欧元左右的价格将其出售。迭戈·迪拉·维利以其高雅的品味著称。 1998 年，他在一场佳士得拍卖会上买下了 J.F.肯尼迪的游艇“马林号”，游艇虽然不算豪华，但其意义非同一般。作为法拉利总裁卢卡 ·克劳德洛 ·迪 ·蒙特泽莫罗（Luca Cordero di Montezemolo）多年的好友，他对法拉利的痴情也是人尽皆知。迪拉·维利见多识广，经常往来于自己位于亚得里亚海附近的家和米兰的办公室及全球各地其他他喜欢或拥有房子的地方 — — 例如迈阿密、纽约、巴黎和卡普里岛。光这种神仙般的生活就着实让人艳羡，更令人羡忌的是他还拥有意大利最大、业务遍布全球的配饰和时装出口帝国托德斯集团（Tod's SpA，除了 Tod's 托德斯外，还包括 30 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2020 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Hogan、Fay 和 Roger Vivier 等品牌）的部分股权。但托德斯集团其实和其他意大利家族企业一样，开始时并不起眼。虽然从最传统的意义上说，迭戈·迪拉· 维利算不上是白手起家，因为他曾在博洛尼亚进修，后来又继承了一个发展良好的家族企业，但他确实为其商业帝国的发展立下过汗马功劳。迭戈 ·迪拉 ·维利 1953 年出生于意大利中部亚得里亚海海岸附近的 Casette D ' Ete，并在那里度过了童年和青少年。他的祖父菲利普（Filippo）是位忠厚老实的鞋匠，每天在家里做鞋到很晚，第二天去当地的集市上卖掉。二战以后，意大利迎来了艰难却又充满希望的时期，菲利普的儿子多里诺（Dorino）继承了他的手艺，把家中一切都投入到一家小鞋厂上。父母的工厂成为了小迭戈的第二个家。不用上学时，他就在厂里做些简单工作，为收入微薄的家庭贡献自己的力量。 60 年代起，多里诺的大胆和付出逐渐有了回报，厂里的订单大幅增加。其主要客户来自大西洋彼岸的美国，其中相当大一部分是大型百货商店，如 Saks Fifth Avenue 萨克斯第五大道百货商店和顶级商场 Bergdorf Goodman 波道夫·古德曼。生意越做越大，家里的日子也越过越舒心，家中长子迭戈也有机会接受高等教育。年轻的迭戈就是这样来到博洛尼亚的，他自己说，他的学生时代平静而简单，但他并

iego Della Valle is one of the most prominent figures in the Italian business world. Owner of a vast fortune that places him among the richest and most influential men in the Transalpine country, he, along with his brother Andrea, has interests in very diverse areas, ranging from finance to fashion, with stakes in companies such as Bialetti, Piaggio, RCS, Mediobanca and Marcolin. In the past, he has sat on the board of directors of some of Italy's most important companies; although today he only retains his place in the luxury emporium LVMH, of which he remains a shareholder. Together, the brothers also owned ACF Fiorentina football club, which they rescued from bankruptcy in 2002 and sold it in the summer of 2019 for around €16 million. Diego Della Valle is known for his refined taste. In 1998, he bought the modest but symbolic Marlin, a yacht owned by J.F. Kennedy at a Christie's auction, later joined by the sumptuous 194-foot Altair III. A good friend of Ferrari's president of many years, Luca Cordero di Montezemolo, his passion for Ferraris is no secret either. A man of the world, he travels between his home, near the Adriatic, and the offices in Milan or anywhere else in the world where he has interests or houses – Miami, New York, Paris and Capri.

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不是仅仅埋头读书。所以，不久后迭戈就回到了家里，继续投身于家族生意。他首先进入市场营销部工作，充分发挥自己学到的相关知识。营销工作令他开始定期前往美国出差，因为除了公司最大的客户已经在美国外，那里还有巨大的客户增长潜力。结果也不出所料，在日益发展的时装业中逐渐占据一席之地的新晋设计师们也开始给他们下订单。美国的所见所闻与他家乡的截然不同，给他的事业和人生都产生了重要影响。美国人做生意实实在在，且乐于接纳好主意，这也极大影响了他的从商理念，他后来在 Tod's 托德斯贯彻 “打造优雅 ”的品牌理念也归功于此。托德斯将他的意大利特色和令他着迷的美式舒适休闲融汇一体。上世纪 70 年代末，在一次前往美国的旅途中，他买了一双意大利乐福鞋。他意识到，尽管从商业的角度这种鞋很受欢迎，但 32 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2020 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential PERSONALITY 其质量和外观仍有许多不足之处。这款鞋的舒适性非常符合美国人的喜好，因为它混合了上世纪 50 年代美国学院风乐福鞋和意大利本土产乐福鞋的特征。乐福鞋在意大利也取得了出人意料的成功：它很受赛车手的欢迎，因为他们觉得普通休闲鞋既不舒服，抓地感也不好。适合驾驶穿的乐福鞋开始在赛车手们间流行起来，很快从跑道上蔓延开来，成为意大利人 dolce vita 甜蜜生活的象征。回到意大利后，迭戈把鞋带到了工厂，在那里，工匠们经过仔细观察，制作出了一款更精致的版本，新款鞋子更符合市场消费者品味，可谓休闲必备鞋款。这款新鞋就是声名卓著的豆豆鞋（gommino），至少现在是这样，刚推出时它只不过是市场上既有产品的改进版本。鞋面采用了极其柔软的优质小牛皮，鞋底上有 133 个小橡胶钉，纯手工塑形，非常舒适柔软，完全贴合在脚上，完全符合要求苛刻的高端市场需求，也正是迭戈心心念念想要打入的市场。至于销售，迭戈也早就有了主意。他已一直在留意著名的菲亚特汽车的老板吉亚尼·阿涅利（Gianni Agnelli)）有好一段时间。吉亚尼·阿涅利有只脚在车祸中受过伤，并留下终身后遗症，因此这位前卫大胆、风度翩翩的意式风格偶像在很多隆重的场合里经常不守常规穿着乐福鞋出席。经朋友卢卡 ·克劳德洛 ·迪 ·蒙特泽莫罗（Luca Cordero di Montezemolo）介绍，迭戈曾与阿涅利在菲亚特共事，迭戈把豆豆鞋作

It’s a sophisticated life, impressive at every level, but even more so if you take into account that what is today his global empire, part of the largest Italian accessories and fashion export group, Tod's SpA (which comprises Tod's itself as well as brands like Hogan, Fay and Roger Vivier), like other Italian family businesses, had a relatively humble start. Though not a self-made man in the most classic sense, because he studied in Bologna and benefited from a thriving family business that would later be left to him, the businessman deserves all the credit in the evolution of what is now his empire. Diego Della Valle was born in 1953 in Casette D´Ete in central Italy, near the Adriatic coast, where he spent his childhood and adolescence. His grandfather, Filippo, was a modest artisan who made shoes at home, working late hours to sell them the next day at local fairs. After World War II, in difficult but hopeful times, his son Dorino followed in his footsteps by risking everything in a small shoe factory. His parents' workplace was a second home for little Diego who, when not in school, contributed to the fragile family economy by performing the simplest tasks. From the ‘60s onward, Dorino's audacity began to bear fruit. Orders increased considerably. The main customers were across the Atlantic in the US, and a

substantial part of production went to large department stores, such as Saks Fifth Avenue and Bergdorf Goodman. The business kept growing and placed the family in a more comfortable position, making it possible to provide the eldest son with a higher education. This is how young Diego went to Bologna, where, as he says, he led a quiet student life where books were not always the focus of his attention. And so, shortly after, Diego went back home to pursue the family business. He made the most of what he learned in his course in the marketing department, where he first started. This is how he began to travel regularly to the US, where the company's largest customers were already, but where the potential for growth was enormous. The results could not have been better. Orders began to come in from new designers who were gaining ground in the growing fashion industry. More than material effects, the reality he encountered in the US, which was very different from the one in which he grew up, marked him indelibly. The practicality with which business was done and the receptive way in which good ideas were accepted influenced his business perspective. It also greatly contributed to the concept of elegance that he would come to adopt at Tod’s – the intersection of his Italian

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Essential PERSONALITY

为礼物送给阿涅利，后者也欣然接受。这双鞋很快得到了阿涅利的青睐，从此，无论是在办公室、沙龙活动以及在尤文图斯的看台上（自 1923 年起，阿涅利家族就成了尤文图斯俱乐部的东家）和所有相关照片中，都能看到他脚穿豆豆鞋的身影，可以说，迪拉· 维利借助自己的卓越营销技巧，给豆豆鞋缔造了一次次巡回展示的机会。那段时间，这种非凡的营销手法会反复运用在富豪和好莱坞明星身上，为豆豆鞋带来强大的曝光率，令它成为人人渴望的鞋子。随着业务发展的需要，20 世纪 70 年代末， Tod’s 品牌成立。Tod’s 最初名为 J. P. Tod，象征着迪拉·维利对新世界及其简单实用主义的欣赏。据说，这个名字是从一本电话簿中随便选出来的，尽管迪拉·维利没有证实这种说法，但他更愿意强调，无论在哪里看到这个名字，都是既好念又好记的。事实上，他巧妙的营销策略和这个虚构的名字，让所有人都好奇这个 J. P. Tod 到底是谁，是谁制作出了人人梦寐以求的、五颜六色的乐福鞋。豆豆鞋的成功为迭戈带来了更多的责任。 1980 年代，迭戈不再只是一名单纯的营销总监，而是开始负责帮助公司规划愿景策略。 J. P. Tod 自我定位为 “意大利制造 ”的奢侈品品牌之际，一些大型奢侈品集团在上世纪 90 年代末也同时诞生，奢侈品市场的面貌也彻底改观，凭借其公认的敏锐商业触觉，迭戈也成功成为赶潮儿。 20 世纪末，品牌名称进一步简化成 Tod’s 托德斯，大约在同一时间，公司搬到建于 1998 年，位于 Casette d’Ete 的全新总部。新总部由迭戈的妻子、建筑师芭芭拉·皮斯蒂利（Barbara Pistilli）设计，采用了模块化风格，是意大利第一个为员工提供幼儿日托和健身设施的公司。 2000 年，迭戈接任 Tod’s S.p.A.集团总裁职位，同年，该集团在米兰证券交易所上市，现已跻身皮革配件业的领军企业之列。

identity with the American comfort and informality that fascinated him so much. It was on one of these trips to the US in the late 1970s that, when buying Italian loafers, he realised that, despite their good commercial acceptance, their quality and appearance left much to be desired. The shoe, much to the Americans' liking for its comfort, a cross between the 1950s American preppy loafers and indigenous loafers, gained an unexpected practical sense in Italy: it was adapted by racing drivers for whom casual shoes were uncomfortable and had poor grip. The driving-shoe became popular on the feet of sports idols, but it quickly spilled over from the racetracks to become a symbol of the Italian dolce vita. Back in Italy with the specimen in hand, Diego took it to the factory where it was carefully scrutinised by his artisans to create a more refined version, more to the taste of the market that had adopted it as a must in their leisure time. The result was the celebrated gommino, at least today, because at the time it was just an improved version of an existing product on the market. An extremely soft, high-quality calfskin and a sole with 133 small rubber studs, which was manually shaped, resulted in a highly comfortable moccasin, a true foot glove, able to meet the sophisticated and demanding market that the young director intended to reach. All that was left was to sell it, and Diego had an idea. For some time, he had been eyeing Gianni Agnelli, the famous industrial owner of Fiat and a bold icon of Italian style who often wore loafers in the most unusual situations and against all conventions, apparently due to a car accident that left him with a foot injury for the rest of his life. 澳门精华 | 2020年 2月- 3月 | 35

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迭戈 ·迪拉 ·维利的座右铭是 ”尊严、责任和乐趣（Dignita, Dovere and Fun）”，他认为一名企业家有责任把自己创造的部分财富回馈给培养他成长的社会。他提倡及维护手工艺制作 “意大利制造 ” 的声誉，并毕生奉献于这项事业，他一直对自己的祖国怀着深深的感激之情：托德斯的所有产品全都是意大利制造，而且大部分产品，尤其是豆豆鞋的制作，都是由经验丰富的工匠手工完成，一双鞋子彻底完成要进行 100 多个步骤，用到 35 片皮革。 “我热爱自己的祖国，对 “意大利制造 ” 的支持是我前行的动力，因此无论何时何地，

Through his friend Luca Cordero di Montezemolo, who worked with Agnelli at Fiat, Diego brought him the gommino as a gift, which the elegant industrialist happily accepted. The moccasin passed the demanding test. From then on, the industrialist began to be seen and photographed in the offices, salons and the stands of Juventus, rooting for the team that the family has owned since 1923, with the gomminos on his feet, an exhibition that Della Valle took advantage of with the skill of a true marketeer. The unusual marketing move for that time would be repeated time and again with jet

set figures and Hollywood actors, giving them exposure and making them an object of desire. The brand itself, resulting from the need to evolve the business, was created in the late 1970s. The Tod's designation, initially J. P. Tod, reflects Della Valle's admiration for the New World and its simplicity and practicality. Legend has it that the name was randomly picked from a phone book, although the entrepreneur does not confirm it, preferring to emphasise how easily it can be said and memorised, regardless of the market in which it is found. The fact is that with his clever marketing manoeuvres and

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只要能为意大利的形象、名誉和文化作出贡献，我都会不余遗力进行支持，对我而言这么做是一项伟大的荣誉和光荣的责任，” 近期在接受一本著名美国杂志采访时，他骄傲地说道。迭戈是慈善家和赞助人。他为米兰的斯卡拉歌剧院（La Scala）等文化机构捐款，是斯卡拉歌剧院的创始人之一，但他对意大利文化的最卓越贡献是他在 2011 年出巨资修复著名的罗马斗兽场（Colosseum）。他的慷慨资助将令他和品牌名称永远铭刻在这一历史遗迹上。 2010 年，当罗马市长 Gianni Alemanno 邀请他为罗马斗兽场的修复项目捐款时，迭戈的回答让市长瞠目结舌。迭戈说只有市长答应由他提供修复工程的全部资金，他才会捐款。由于慈善事业在意大利并非主流传统，有些人（主要是政客）对他的这一举动持怀疑态度。事实上，迭戈再一次显示了自己的先锋式影响力，其他意大利奢侈品公司也纷纷效仿他的善举，为修复特莱维喷泉（Trevi Fountain，芬迪）和西班牙阶梯（ Spanish Steps，宝格丽）等古迹做出贡献。尽管 66 岁的迭戈早已功成名就，但他依旧马不停蹄。他常到世界各地积极参与公司的事务，尤其是 Tod’s 托德斯的业务，但他最重要的家仍是自己的出生地，这里距离他的工厂只有 5 分钟距离。虽然欣赏生活中的美好事物，但他却力行俭朴，无论是饮食习惯还是自年轻时就去同一间咖啡馆的习惯都没有变过。正如他几年前所说的那样，他更喜欢 “品质 ”这个词，而不是 “奢华 ”，因为当奢华过度时，就容易成了俗气。“我们必须找到一个平衡点。” 쐽 38 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2020 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

a made-up name, he made everyone wonder who this J. P. Tod was, who had produced those colourful loafers everyone wanted. The success brought added responsibilities to Diego who, in the 1980s, moved from being a mere marketing director to helping design the company's visionary strategy. Its positioning as a luxury ‘Made in Italy’ brand accompanied the birth of the large luxury conglomerates at the end of the decade that came to radically change the face of the market, a movement that the entrepreneur was able to keep up with thanks to his recognised acumen. In the twilight of the 20th century, the approach was simplified further by making the brand name just Tod's, at around the same

time as the company was moving to new headquarters in Casette d'Ete in the Marche region, built in 1998. Designed by his wife, architect Barbara Pistilli, the new facilities were modular, the first in Italy to have daycare and gym facilities for employees. In 2000, Diego took over the presidency of the Tod's S.p.A. group, which entered the Milan Stock Exchange that same year, already in the leading position as a producer of leather accessories. With the motto "Dignità, Dovere and Fun", Diego Della Valle believes that a businessman has the duty of returning part of his wealth to the society in which he grew up. A great champion of craftsmanship and of the Made in Italy name, the cause of a lifetime, he has always emphasised his enormous gratitude to the country where he was born: at Tod's, all products are exclusively made in Italy and much of the work, particularly the production of gomminos, is done by hand by experienced artisans, in a thorough process comprising more than 100 steps and using 35 cuts of leather. “I love my country and I am driven by the support of ‘Made in Italy’, therefore any time I have or I had in the past to contribute to the support of Italy's image, credibility and its culture, it has been both a great honour and a duty for me,” he recently said, proudly, in an interview with a famous American magazine. Philanthropist and patron, he contributes to cultural institutions such as the La Scala opera house in Milan, of whose foundation he is a member, but his greatest contribution to Italian culture was the large donation to the restoration of the famous Colosseum in Rome in 2011. The donation will forever stamp his name and the brand he founded on this important historical monument. When the mayor of Rome, Gianni Alemanno, invited him to contribute a fraction of the value of the restoration work in 2010, he was speechless when Diego replied that he would only par-

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ticipate if he was allowed to finance the entire work. As Italy didn’t have major philanthropic traditions, the gesture was viewed by some (politicians mainly) with suspicion. The fact is that, once again, the businessman showed himself to be at the forefront, eventually having a copycat effect on other Italian luxury companies that contributed to the restoration of monuments such as the Trevi Fountain (Fendi) and the Spanish Steps (Bulgari), among others. Despite his 66 years and huge success, Diego doesn’t stop. He travels around the world and actively participates in the lives of his companies, particularly Tod's, but his main home is still in his birthplace, just five minutes from the factory. Appreciative of the finer things in life, however, he doesn’t turn up his nose at simplicity, both in terms of food and in the habit of going to the same cafes as in his youth. As he said a few years ago, he prefers the word quality over luxury, because, when excessive, it easily slips into the tacky. "We have to strike a balance." 쐽 澳门精华 | 2020年 2月- 3月 | 39

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一生为鞋 A life full of shoes 著名制鞋大师塞尔吉奥 ·罗西的儿子吉安维托 · 罗西向《精华》杂志讲述了自己同名品牌的发展历程和自己一生与鞋为伍的故事 Son of the famous Sergio Rossi, Gianvito Rossi spoke to Essential about his brand’s journey and a lifetime surrounded by shoes 文/by CÁTIA MATOS

大

约 13 年前，吉安维托·罗西（Gianvito Rossi）创立了自己的同名品牌。尽管不能确切记得自己是从什么时候开始设计鞋子的，但他的确是在鞋子的包围中长大。 “它们一直是我生活中的一部分，”他微笑着说。在接受《精华》杂志采访时，吉安维托表示，他是在自己的父亲 — — 著名的鞋履设计师塞尔吉奥·罗西（Sergio Rossi）身上受到启发要承继这项事业。 “我充满热忱地为父亲工作了很长时间。我热爱有关鞋履世界的一切。当父亲卖掉公司后，我第一次意识到，我身边再也没有鞋子了。当我们整个一生都和某样东西朝夕相处时，我们很难明白它对我们有多么重要，以及它意味着什么。只有当我们不再拥有它时，我们才会意识到这一点。那个时候，我才意识到，鞋子就是我的生命，是我真正想做的事业。” 40 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2020 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

49 岁的他就此决定开启自己的鞋履事业。他很清楚父亲塞尔吉奥 ·罗西 “在全世界是独一无二的，他的水平无人能及，”但吉安维托打算“尽全力追随父亲的脚步。” 他认为自己与父亲最相似的地方在于对品质的精益求精，这是他在所有工作中都恪守的承诺。“我希望能忠于自己喜欢和相信的东西……我们一定要思考做好一件事的最佳方式；如何改善作品并提升品质。由于手工制品使用的是天然皮革，所以有很多限制。每年，每季，我们不会把任何事视为理所当然。无论是人，还是原材料的品质都在不断变化。没有什么是永恒不变的。” 吉安维托 ·罗西品牌推出的第一个系列是 2007 春夏系列，系列彰显了他自创业伊始一直以来的主要目标：强烈个性、当代视野和简单风格。这样的定位为品牌的迅速成功奠定了一半的基础，但如今，品牌专注于打造集优雅、舒适于一身的鞋履。“这就有很多

t was around 13 years ago that he founded his namesake brand. Although he doesn’t remember the exact moment when shoes began to be the object of his work, Gianvito Rossi grew up surrounded by them. “They have always been part of my life," he says, smiling. It was in his father, the famous shoe designer Sergio Rossi, that the Italian saw the inspiration to continue the legacy, as he tells us in a interview with Essential. “I worked with my father passionately for a long time. I really loved this whole world. When my father sold the company, for the first time I no longer had shoes around me. When we’re surrounded by something our entire lives, it is very hard to understand how important it is to us and what it really means. And we only realise it when we no longer have it. I understood then that that was my life and what I really wanted to do.”

要做的工作。鞋履的轻便是品质的重要一环。当我们看着这些选择，想着把优雅与舒适融为一体时，要考虑的是 5,000 样东西。虽然要做的事很多，但主要还是集中在鞋子的设计方面。它必须从开始构思时就要考虑到。” 使用 PVC 材料，也让吉安维托·罗西的作品与众不同。“我想强调轻便的理念。打造更轻便、元素极简的鞋子，PVC 似乎是个不错的选择。从美学角度来讲，PVC 鞋让脚看起来更修长，更显优雅，因为它没有经过深加工，但同时它廓形分明而规则。PVC 很好的展示了少即是多这个理念。” 这算不算是让人一眼识别出吉安维托· 罗西鞋履的显著特色吗？ “事实上，我不希望自己的鞋子能被消费者一眼就认出来是我的设计。鞋子是服饰配件，其使命是让我们感觉良好。这是我设计鞋子时的目的。为此，线条必须更简单，也要多塑造廓形。” 42 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2020 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

And so, at the age of 49, he made the decision to work with shoes. He is certain that Sergio Rossi "is unique in the world and his level is not even attainable", but he is trying "to follow in his footsteps as best I can". He believes that the closest resemblance to his father lies in his commitment to quality, a commitment he follows religiously in all his work. “I want to stay true to what I like and what I believe (...) We always have to think about the best way we can do something; how can we improve the work and its quality. As a handcrafted product using natural leathers, there are many limitations. Every year, every season, we can take nothing for granted. Both the people and the quality of the materials are always changing. Nothing is permanent.”

The first collection launched by the brand, for Spring/Summer 2007, revealed the creator's primary goals from the very beginning: to have a strong identity, a contemporary vision and a simple aesthetic. These qualities turned out to be halfway to almost immediate success, but now, all attention falls on the prominent, successful combination of elegance and comfort. “There has to be a lot of work. The portability of the shoe is part of its quality. When we look at the options and we want to combine both, there are 5,000 things that have to be combined. There is a lot of work, but it mainly has to do with the design of the shoe. It has to start from the beginning, from conception.” It is also in the use of PVC that Gianvito Rossi makes the difference. "I wanted to emphasise the concept of lightness. The idea of

Essential SHOES

正是基于此，他的品牌才在如此短的时间内就取得了成功。“我的客户发现了专为他们制作的鞋子，他们不是因为品牌原因选择它，而是因为我的鞋子使他们更加自信。” 格温妮丝·帕特洛（Gwyneth Paltrow）、黛安 ·克鲁格（Diane Kruger）、妮可 ·基德曼（Nicole Kidman）和查理兹 ·塞隆（Charlize Theron）等国际知名影星都是品牌的粉丝。 “看到她们穿我的鞋子时，我非常高兴。这让我感到格外自豪。” 尽管他承认设计男鞋让他没有那么多的创作自由，但在 2017 年，他还是冒险推出了首个男鞋系列。“我想打造一个奢侈、现代又能令人耳目一新的男鞋系列……我们仍处于初期开发过程中。我敲定了产品系列，现在我们正在发展壮大。” 至于本季的全新女鞋系列，吉安维托选择以红色和动物印花作为主要元素。“这个系

列采用了各类皮革、动物主题的图案和多种色彩，其中我着重突显了红色，红色一向是柔美女性气质的重要元素。我认为每个女人都该拥有至少一双红色鞋子。” 吉安维托 ·罗西的专卖店遍布米兰、罗马、巴黎、蒙特卡洛、伦敦、纽约、迈阿密、加利福尼亚、香港、东京和首尔等各地重要城市，他希望在未来几年内开设更多精品店，尤其是在美国。当他需要年轻一代的主意时，他会征求自己的孩子索非亚（Sofia）和尼古拉（Nicola）的意见，因为“在设计时能听取他人的意见很重要。”他希望自己的品牌也能在儿女手中继持续发展。“我女儿现在已经开始进入公司工作了，我儿子已经和我一起工作了一段时间了。” 至于品牌未来的发展重心，他表示会和现在一样： “我最大的愿望就是客户过得开心。” 쐽

creating a lighter shoe, minimalist in elements, and the PVC seemed to be a good option. Aesthetically, it makes the foot look longer, reflects elegance because it is undressed, but at the same time its shape is very clear and regular. It's a good way to show a little more without being too much.” And is that the signature when it comes to identifying a Gianvito Rossi shoe? "The truth is, I don't want my shoes to be immediately recognised as mine. Shoes are an accessory and their mission is to make us feel good. That is my goal when I design a shoe. For this, the lines have to be simpler with extra attention to the shape.” It is on this premise that he justifies all the success achieved in such a short time. “My clients have discovered a shoe that's made for them and they don't choose it necessarily for the brand. It's something that makes them more confident.” Big international celebrities, such as Gwyneth Paltrow, Diane Kruger, Nicole Kidman and Charlize Theron, are already fans of the brand. “I'm very happy when I see them wearing my shoes. It makes me very proud.” Although he admits that designing for men gives him less freedom of creativity, in 2017, he ventured into his first collection for the male audience. "I wanted to create a luxurious, modern and refreshing collection (...) We are still at the beginning of the process. I defined my line and now we are expanding.” In regards to the new women's collection for this season, Gianvito chose red and animal print as the key elements. “This collection comes with various types of leather, animal-themed patterns and a diverse colour palette, where I highlight the red, which is always an element of femininity. I think every woman should have at least one pair of red shoes.” With his own stores located in strategic locations such as Milan, Rome, Paris, Monte Carlo, London, New York, Miami, California, Hong Kong, Tokyo and Seoul, Gianvito Rossi expects to open several more boutiques in the next few years, more specifically in the US. When he needs the perspective of a younger generation, he speaks to his children, Sofia and Nicola, as "it is important to have other opinions when we are designing”. It is also in the hands of his children that he wants his brand to continue. “My daughter has now started working at the company and my son has already been working with me for some time.” As for the future focus of the brand, it remains the same as it has until now. “My greatest wish is that my clients stay as happy as they are," he concludes. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2020年 2月- 3月 | 43

香水的魔力 The magic of perfumery 《香之精粹：发现香气、香水、香精的世界》（The Essence: Discovering the World of Scent, Perfume & Fragrance）一书深入探讨了繁香的世界 The book "The Essence: Discovering the World of Scent, Perfume & Fragrance" explores in depth the world of perfumes 文/by CÁTIA MATOS 44 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2020 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential BOOK

t is not by chance that fragrances have been a source of fascination for centuries. The truth is that we easily associate them with our most special memories as if they were inherently magical. This is one of the themes that is explored in "The Essence: Discovering the World of Scent, Perfume & Fragrance" released by German publishing house Gestalten and co-authored by journalist

and subject matter expert, Carla Seipp. This book also addresses other topics related to the world of fragrance, from the origins of perfume to the vital role that technology will play in the future. It is also worth highlighting the in-depth approach to the way in which history, science and culture have shaped the perfume industry to what it is today, a billiondollar business. 쐽

几

个世纪以来，繁香醉人，一直魅惑着世人。事实是，我们倾向于将香气与我们最特别的回忆联系起来，仿佛众香拥有天然的魔力。由德国出版社 Gestalten 发行，并与记者、主题专家卡拉·西普（Carla Seipp）合著的《香之精粹：发现香气、香水、香精的世界》（ The Essence: Discovering the World of Scent, Perfume & Fragrance）便探讨了这一主题。此书还触及与香水世界有关的其他主题，从香水的起源说起，并论及在将来香水界技术将发挥的重要作用。这本书从历史、科学和文化角度出发，深入探讨香水行业是如何被打造成如今数百亿美元产值的产业，值得一读！ 쐽 澳门精华 | 2020年 2月- 3月 | 45

遇见 Max Mara 泰迪熊 Meet adorable Max Mara teddy bears 发现 Max Mara 泰迪熊系列多款独特产品 Discover a variety of exclusive pieces from the Max Mara collection 文/by EDWINA LIU

46 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2020 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

寒

冬让人在穿衣上易趋单调俗套。然而，冬天却让您有十足的理由或借口去抢购一件泰迪熊大衣。此外，本季的必备单品既时尚又舒适，让在阴冷的清晨不得不钻出温暖被窝这事也显得轻而易举了…… 泰迪熊大衣源于 2013 年的 Max Mara 时装秀。这款大衣有着塌肩设计，舒适的口袋，采用羊驼毛和马海毛混纺面料，犹如我们放在床脚的可爱动物变身为大衣版本。虽然版型低调朴实，泰迪熊大衣却显示出自己的独特不凡:自从在 2013 年时装秀上发布以来，它就成了备受追捧的热卖单品。现在，时尚潮人可以在「澳门银河™」Max Mara TEDDYMANIA 限定店买到这款标志性的泰迪熊大衣 Teddy Coat。限定店里满是大小不一、多彩缤纷的小熊，排排坐在输送带上，萌萌滴！千万别错过与巨型泰迪熊

t can be so easy to fall into a wardrobe rut as temperatures drop. However, the positive side of that is that you can fully justify snapping up a teddy coat. Plus, this season’s must-have is equal parts chic and cosy, making leaving your duvet behind on a chilly grey morning that more appealing…. The origin of the teddy coat trend goes back to the 2013 Max Mara runway. With its dropped shoulders, cosy pockets and blend of alpaca and mohair, it is the outerwear version of that cute animal we keep at the foot of the bed. With an unassuming deign, it has also proved to be that rarity: it became a retailing monster since being introduced at the 2013 fashion show. Now, fashionistas can get this iconic teddy coat at the TEDDYMANIA pop-up store at 澳门精华 | 2020年 2月- 3月 | 47

Essential BRAND

48 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2020 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential BRAND

Max The Teddy 合照的机会 — — 这是来限定店的至尊礼遇! 更令人兴奋的是，您可以在限定店中找到一系列独到产品。其中一款瞩目明星产品是 2020 早春 Resort 系列金色泰迪熊大衣，以闪闪发光的混金属纱线 Lurex 制成。利用 Max Mara 开发的独一无二的工艺打造，Lurex 面料不仅柔软轻薄，而且在聚光灯下闪闪发光，质感格外华美迷人。快闪店发售的其他澳门限量版产品还包括两款秋冬系列的泰迪熊 Teddy Bear 经典大衣 :经典米色纯羊绒泰迪熊大衣和黑色混金属纱线泰迪熊大衣。经典米色大衣以柔软的羊绒与高级蚕丝打造出无与伦比的纹理效果，双排扣设计更散发永恒久远的魅力。黑色混金属纱线大衣则凭低调优雅和自然时尚的风格，使穿着者看上去极致冷艳迷人。此外，限定店还推出了一系列泰迪熊饰品，包括 Teddy 毛绒围巾、Teddy 毛绒手套、 Teddy 毛绒耳罩、Teddy 毛绒腰包、Teddy 小熊锁匙扣等等，让人爱不释手。 쐽

Galaxy Macau. The pop-up is filled with charming Max Mara Teddies, seated on conveyor belts in varying sizes and in an amazingly colourful palette. Don’t miss out on the exclusive photo opportunity with the giant Max The Teddy – the highpoint of the factory! Even more exciting, an array of exclusive items can be found at the pop-up. One of the highlights is a gold version from SS2020 Resort Collection, made of glittering lurex. Coupled with the one-of-a-kind process developed by Max Mara, this mixed metal yarn is not only soft and light, but also dazzles under the spotlight, which gives an extra glamorous touch. Other Macau limited-edition items at the pop-up also include two fall/winter styles of Teddy Bear icon coats, in cashmere classic beige

as well as lurex black. In a sumptuous cashmere silk blend, the classic beige statement coat has an unrivalled texture, while its double-breasted fastening design provides a timeless appeal. The black lurex version elevates one’s ultimate evening look with understated elegance and effortless chic. Moreover, the pop-up introduces a large range of teddy bear accessories, including teddy bear scarves, gloves, earmuffs, belt bags and keychains. 쐽

澳门精华 | 2020年 2月- 3月 | 49

叛逆，叛逆 REBEL, REBEL

摄影及助理 PHOTOGRAPHY PEDRO FERREIRA ASSISTED BY ANA VIEGAS 造型及助理 STYLING SUSANA MARQUES PINTO (WWW.PULPFASHION.PT), ASSISTED BY BEATRIZ CLEMENTE 化妆 MAKE-UP PATRICK VAN DER BERG FOR WWW.SKINLIFE.PT 发型 HAIR HELENA VAZ PEREIRA, ASSISTED BY SORAIA TOMÉ FOR GRIFFEHAIRSTYLE 模特 MODEL MARIA BELOKRYLOVA (WE ARE MODELS)

外套 Jacket: 圣罗兰 Saint Laurent 背心 Vest: Cos 长裤 Trousers: Luís Carvalho 鞋 Shoes: 艾特罗 Etro 帽子 Hat: 巴伯尔 Barbour

夹克 Blazer: Scotch & Soda 长裤 Trousers: 米索尼 Missoni 领带 Tie: 制作人私伙 production’s own 跑鞋 Sneakers: 蔻依 Chloé

外套、短裤 Jacket and shorts: Scotch & Soda 袜子 Socks: 薇薇安·威斯特伍德 Vivienne Westwood (旧款 Vintage）鞋 Shoes: 迪奥 Dior

开衫 Cardigan: Cos 针织衫 Knit jumper: 玛尼 Marni 长裤 Trousers: Arma 领带 Tie: 思琳 Celine (旧款 Vintage)

夹克 Blazer: Faith Connexion 衬衫、鞋 Shirt and shoes: 思琳 Celine 长裤 Trousers: Miguel Vieira

夹克 Blazer: 希尔瑞 Theory 针织衫 Knit jumper: 米索尼 Missoni 长裤 Trousers: 蔻依 Chloé 太阳镜 Sunglasses: 思琳 Celine 手抓包 Clutch: Olympia Le-Tan 靴子 Boots: 吉安维托·罗西 Gianvito Rossi

风雨衣 Trench coat: 思琳 Celine 衬衣 Shirt: Scotch & Soda 长裤 Trousers: Cos 腰带 Belt: 芬迪 Fendi

风衣 Windbreaker: 吉尔·桑达 Jil Sander 背心 Vest: 杜嘉班纳 Dolce & Gabbana 长裤 Trousers: 古琦 Gucci 遮阳帽 Visor: Luís Carvalho

Essential TRENDS

男装之时尚回归 Boys are back in town 不同品牌推出的男装产品有些洋溢着复古风格，有些则散发着大胆而独特的现代风情。20 2 0 年秋冬男装系列以其面料、色彩和剪裁引人入胜而格外耀目。全新系列出众而有趣，为男士的多样化审美和风格品味作出极致诠释 The offerings of different brands for the male market vary between the past and a supposedly bold and distinctive present. The men's collections for the upcoming Fall/Winter season stand out for the compelling beauty of the materials, the color palette and the cut. The result is superb and fun, perfect for the diversity of the male aesthetic and stylistic tastes 文/by CATARINA VASQUES RITO

男

Dolce & Gabbana

62 | APRIL - MAY 2017 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

士时装正日益成为一个多元化的领域，也让人们再次意识到男人也爱虚荣，一样对时装感兴趣，力求打造彰显自己个性的形象。其实过去便是这样，由于社会付诸男性的行为 /形象相关的压力造就的乏创意时代已一去不返。亚历山大·麦昆（Alexander McQueen）的全新系列在秋冬季各大品牌系列中颇为醒目，品牌设计师莎拉·伯顿（Sarah Burton）和团队采用苏格兰高地的传统面料。灵感来自机车旅行和机车骑行服：深色的衬衫和裤子，有的大胆采用皮革面料，有的则是经典永恒的款式，比如大衣或剪裁突显男性体型的“Regular 正常尺码”裤子。其中，大码剪裁的服装在系列中分外引人瞩目。此外，穿插在系列服装中印花图案和活力四射的色彩在这喜庆的时刻也很是应景。另一个让人惊喜的系列是由设计师 Norbert Stumpfl 为布里奥尼（Brioni）打造的 2020 秋冬系列。Norbert Stumpfl 选择在佛罗伦萨盖里尼宫（Gerini Palace）来发布全新作品。灯光的设计与盖里尼宫室内满屋的美丽的 Gabbiani 壁画相得益彰，令观众的目光完全聚焦行走在黑暗中的模特身上。在柴可夫斯基的音乐声中，优雅的西装吸引着人们，营造出一种完美气氛，让人们得以享受每件作品的巅峰之美，乃至面料中的每个细节。虽然系

en's fashion is increasingly a sector of diversity, once again realising that men are vain beings, interested in fashion, proud of their image and what it says, or can say, about their personality. That’s how it was in the past, after less creative times resulting from behaviours and image pressure associated with what was or should be the behaviour/image of men in society. One of the collections that stands out for the coming season is that of Alexander McQueen, with Sarah Burton and her team bringing back the tradition of fabrics from the Scottish Highlands. The inspiration lies in motorcycle trips and bikers’ clothes: blouses and trousers in dark colours, sometimes bolder with leather, other times in timeless pieces, such as overcoats or the “regular” pants with a cut that flatters the male silhouette. However, the oversize cut stood out in the pieces presented. An apparent sobriety was punctuated with prints and more vibrant colours for supposedly more festive moments. Another lovely surprise was the Brioni collection, created by designer Norbert Stumpfl, who chose the Gerini Palace to showcase FW 2020's creations. The lighting was crafted to match the natural beauty of the palace's interior,

Brioni Alexander McQueen

Dolce & Gabbana

Brunello Cucinelli

Dolce & Gabbana

Essential TRENDS

列作品件件迷人，依旧有一件格外突出：用白山羊毛制成的燕尾服外套。 Brunello Cucinelli 等一直以顶级服装工艺著称的品牌也推出了本季华服。品牌秋冬系列的设计理念摇摆于休闲和传统风格之间，仿佛在为一位风度翩翩的国际都市男性代言， “他”形象利落，品味极高。品牌同名设计师 Cucinelli 一直都在关注可持续性发展：“没有道德何谈利润。现在，人们都在大肆宣扬这个理念。”他还认为人们其实居住在服装里，因此服装应该被保存下来。“我最爱的衣服中有件是出自 1998 年系列的羊绒大衣，我现在还在穿。还有一件是 2002 年的衣服。当今最重要的事就是如何保护和保存我们珍惜的东西。这就是修复、修补、恢复以及重新利用旧事物或为现存物品赋予新生。我们公司不喜欢一次性的东西。我们讨厌浪费，”Brunello Cucinelli 表示。在与有影响力的零零后（从时尚博主到 youtube 网红）合作方面，杜嘉班纳（Dolce &

Gabbana）算是走在行业前沿。杜嘉班纳邀请他们在品牌时装秀上重磅亮相，并让他们坐在前排看秀。博客诞生时还在咿呀学语的幼童们却在品牌的秋冬大秀中成了博主代表，事实上，这些数字时代的网红们热爱杜嘉班纳，而品牌也尽其所能，按照时尚博主们的品味来打造其创意形象。Stefano 和 Dolce 谨记品牌 DNA，并秉承男装最传统、基本的结构，为 2020 秋冬系列命名为“艺术大师”（The Masters of Art），歌颂服装制作工匠大师们的高贵，歌颂历经几代人、依旧保留着古老技艺传统、手工制作的价值。品牌大秀前，两位设计师表示自己的愿望是 “向新一代展示在父子间代代相传的古老裁缝工作的迷人之处，同时借此彰显全新系列的华美魅力。” 这种价值观在其他品牌中也都可见一斑，如托德斯（Tod’s）、菲拉格慕（Salvatore Ferragamo）和 Dsquared2 等。各品牌都专注于可以吸引各年龄段男性大众的设计，保留并推崇“传统”和“个性”的重要性。 쐽

Brioni

Dolce & Gabbana

Brioni

filled with Gabbiani frescoes, forcing the audience to focus their eyes on the models shrouded in apparent darkness. To the sound of Tchaikovsky, the elegance of the suits appealed to the senses and created the perfect atmosphere to enjoy the extreme beauty of each piece, down to every detail of the fabrics. Without detracting from the other pieces, there was one that stood out: a tuxedo coat made from the wool of an albino goat. But the beauty continued with other pieces from brands whose path has always been tailoring, such as Brunello Cucinelli. The collection oscillates between more casual and more traditional ideas, which speaks to a cosmopolitan man, discerning in his image and demanding in his taste. Cucinelli has always been concerned about sustainability: “There's no profit without ethics. Now they're all bragging about this concept.” The designer also believes in the fact that clothes should be lived in and preserved. “I still wear my beloved cashmere coat from a 1998 collection and another one from 2002. Today it's all about the art of keeping and protecting what we cherish. It's about repairing, mending and recovering, of reusing what's old, giving new life to the existing. In our company we don't like disposable. Waste does not agree with us,” says Brunello Cucinelli. Dolce & Gabbana is a pioneer in its relationship with the generations of influencers that were born this century, from bloggers to Youtubers, inviting them to feature prominently in their shows and sitting them in the front row. In the last show, many of the representatives of these areas were still crawling when the blogosphere was born, but the truth is that these digital-age professionals love the brand and it does its best to manage its creative image with their tastes in mind. Without ignoring their DNA and the basis of the most traditional construction of men's clothing, the Italian designer duo named the FW 2020 collection “The Masters of Art”, extolling the dignity of those who produce and manufacture, and the value of manufacturing that it is acquired over several generations, maintaining the tradition of age-old techniques. Before the show, Stefano and Dolce stated their desire to "show the new generation the beauty of these old jobs that have been passed from father to son and also to reflect that beauty in the collection." These values were validated by other brands such as Tod's, Salvatore Ferragamo and Dsquared2, among others, which focus on a design that attracts the most diverse generations of the male public, maintaining the importance and giving prominence to the concepts of "tradition" and "identity". 쐽 澳门精华 | 2017年 4月第 - 5月第 | 65

Essential BEAUTY

红粉菲菲迎鼠年 Benefit Cosmetics 贝玲妃推出 2020 农历新年限量版红粉菲菲美妆套装迎新年。2020 年是鼠年，因此套装以印有可爱小老鼠图案的透明盒作包装。套装包含四种最受欢迎的迷你装明星产品：品牌最畅销、每两秒钟便售出一支的立体塑形眉笔；质地柔顺幼细而亮泽的毛孔细致提亮底霜，可最大程度修饰毛孔；持久不脱色的丰盈火红染唇液；以及粉嫩色调胭脂蜜粉，再加上粉红色的化妆袋，全部装在礼品盒中。使用这套产品，您可以轻松打造出漂亮的红粉菲菲美妆，提升容颜和鼠年好运！

SWEET LOOK TO CELEBRATE THE YEAR OF THE RAT To celebrate the new beginnings of a year, Benefit Cosmetics has launched the limited edition 2020 Pink makeup set. According to the Chinese zodiac, 2020 is the Year of the Rat, and this set is decorated with adorable rats. It contains four popular hero products in mini size: the bestselling brow defining pencil, of which the brand sells one every two seconds; soft-radiance face primer to minimise the look of pores; longwearing fiery-red lip stain; and baby-pink blush, plus a Pink makeup bag, packing in a gift box. With this set of products, creating a pretty pink makeup look to increase good luck in this Lunar New Year is within easy reach!

2020 新年新姿彩新年伊始，想成为一位具影响力和魅力的丽人？Clé de Peau Beauté 肌肤之钥 103 Legend 传奇色彩系列和 Lip Glorifier 粉漾润唇膏将让您散发极致魅力。103 Legend Red 经典传奇红唇膏是品牌最畅销的产品，灵感来自盛开的红玫瑰。为了庆祝品牌创立 10 周年，肌肤之钥推出 103 Legend Red 经典传奇红新系列，系列包含采用这个标志性色调的多种不同质地。Lip Glorifier 粉漾润唇膏是 103 唇膏的完美搭档，助您打造完美唇妆。全新的粉漾润唇膏采用护肤唇釉配方，在锁水的同时为您塑造美丽樱唇，丰盈自内而外散发。

BE RADIANT IN 2020 At the beginning of 2020, you can become influential, capable, and strong! The Clé de Peau Beauté 103 Legend Colour collection and Lip Glorifier will help to maximise your radiance. The 103 Legend Red is the brand’s best-selling product, inspired by the classic red rose. To celebrate its 10th anniversary, Clé de Peau Beauté is launching a collection with multiple finishes of this iconic shade. To create a perfect lip makeup, the Lip Glorifier collection is the perfect partner for the 103 lipstick. Featuring the enhanced Skincare Tint Balm Formula, the new Lip Glorifiers offer a beautiful makeup finish while locking in moisture with every application to make the lips fuller from within.

66 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2020 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential BEAUTY

迷香溢彩 Perris 集团由 Michele Perris 创立于 1981 年，总部位于摩纳哥蒙特卡罗。其后由 Perris 家族第二代、集团创意总监 Gian Luca Perris 成立了香水品牌 Perris Monte Carlo。品牌以“创新，大胆，独特而低调” 为意念，专注于复兴真正的香水艺术，从世界各地采购最优质的原材料，以融汇传统和现代创新的手法，创造独特的香气。著名调香大师 Jean Claude Ellena 为 Perris Monte Carlo 调制品牌经典的 Les Parfums De Grasse 香水系列，向法国香水艺术和香水之都格拉斯的独特工艺致敬。这款花香型香水，以茉莉花香开启，散发着令人陶醉的清澈香气。融合中调的丁香及法国万寿菊，浓郁花香让层次更加丰富，芳香迭起。最后以麝香作结尾，营造和谐、温暖感觉。香水瓶是复古设计的纯白色瓷瓶，更赋予系列尊贵、精致的气息。 Italy Collection 是 Perris Monte Carlo 另一个备受追捧的香水系列。整个系列彰显了诞生于意大利 Capua 的柑橘—自 1880 年以来 Capua 一直是顶级的柑橘精油制造商。Gian Luca Perris 非常喜爱 Capua 融合创新与传统的精油提炼技艺，该系列配上雪松、橘子和佛手柑的气息来突显柑橘的自然特征。

CHARMING SCENTS Now based in Monte Carlo, Monaco, the Perris Group was founded in 1981 by Michele Perris. Creative director Gian Luca Perris, the second generation of the family, created Perris Monte Carlo under the motto “Innovative, bold, distinctive yet understated”. Perris Monte Carlo aimed to bring back the true art of perfumery and explored the finest raw materials from around the world with tradition and modern innovation intertwined to create unique scents. Famous perfumer Jean Claude Ellena has created the brand’s iconic Les Parfums De Grasse, which pays tribute to the art of French perfumery and the unique craftsmanship in Grasse. This floral-scented fragrance captures the strength and delicacy of the jasmine flower. The scent’s heart is enhanced with clove and tagetes, followed by base notes revealing soft musk for a deep fragrance. The perfume is in a pure white porcelain bottle with a retro design that brings a prestigious and exquisite character to the collection. Italy Collection is another popular assortment of the brand. This whole collection highlights the citrus fruit family found in Capua – the top creator of citrus essential oils since 1880. Gian Luca Perris was enthused with their blend of innovative and traditional extraction methods as well as accentuating the natural characteristics of the citrus with hints of cedar, mandarin and bergamot.

莱俪新香 René Lalique 莱俪是首个于珠宝设计中将玻璃与宝石相结合的品牌。此前卫品牌保持一贯的创新精神，最近推出了 Les Compositions Parfumées 香水系。现在，品牌发布了其标志性 Duncan 香水系列的新香 Blue Rise。这款重新演绎的香水，带有热带感觉的独特水漾茉莉香气，蕴含天然的双瓣茉莉萃取及两种神奇的份子素材：果香水嫩的洋茉莉醛和清新、热带风的甲基癸烯醇。全新香味盛装于带点淘气的别具女性魅力的香水瓶中，瓶颈系有彩带。香水载于附有磁石扣子的瑰丽白箱，内有白色衬垫布料，豪华感满满的。

BLUE RISE René Lalique was the first brand to blend glass and gems in jewellery design. The avant-garde brand has kept its innovative spirit alive and recently expanded its Les Compositions Parfumées. Now, the brand introduces a new member of its signature Duncan collection, the Blue Rise. This is a unique fragrance of jasmine tropical water, reinvented with a blend of natural jasmine sambac and fruity helional and undecavertol. The new fragrance is packed in a playful, feminine bottle with a coloured cord. The flacon is presented in a luxurious white coffret with a magnet clasp, lined in white padded fabric.

澳门精华 | 2020年 2月- 3月 | 67

Essential BAZAAR

招牌手袋

优雅趣味柔情珠宝 Louis Vuitton 路易威登的 Idylle Blossom 珠宝系列突显了品牌创始人(于 1896 年)创作的 Monogram 花卉，将之作为作品的核心元素重新演绎。路易威登的最新作品有白金、玫瑰金或黄金材质可供选择，并推出全新的钻石版本。可灵活佩戴的手链是该系列的明星产品，可以单独使用或根据色调与其他款式组合使用。该系列还包含项链、耳环和戒指。

手袋一直以来都是 Cartier 卡地亚的标志性产品，而这一次，卡地亚再度打破人们对手袋的认知，创造出 Guirlande de Cartier 系列。该系列提供四种颜色选择（红色、绿色、黑色和驼色），彰显着卡地亚非凡的珠宝传统，每个细节都尽显精髓。三种尺寸（迷你、小号和中号）均采用小牛皮制作，外观呈八边形，饰有金色花环图案。肩带可拆卸，因此可以同时作为手袋或单肩包使用。

活力无限复古风

Fun and feminine The Idylle Blossom jewellery collection by Louis Vuitton highlights the flower of the Monogram pattern created by the brand’s founder as the central element of its pieces. Available in white, rose or yellow gold, the maison’s latest works have new versions with diamonds. The flexible bracelets are the stars of this collection and can be used individually or in combination of their different shades. The line also features necklaces, earrings and rings. www.louisvuitton.com

68 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2020 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Iconic accessory The handbag is an emblematic item in Cartier’s history and, once again, the maison has reinterpreted this accessory to create the Guirlande de Cartier. Available in four colours (red, green, black and camel), this new model is a reflection of the brand’s great jewellery tradition, mirroring its essence in every detail. Made with calfskin, the bag comes in three sizes (mini, small and medium) and has an octagonal shape and a golden garland motif. It can also be used as a hand or shoulder bag, thanks to its detachable strap. www.cartier.com

Fendi 芬迪 2020 年春夏最新女士眼镜和太阳镜系列融入复古风，为品牌传统注入更多当代气息。 Dawn 系列在镜片周围饰有 FF 标志，有着天然细节的精致镜框； FF Fendi 系列则在轻薄、时尚的镜框上镌刻品牌的经典标志，同时在镜框周围点缀着“北京”图案或 FF 标志。F is Fendi 系列则将 “F is Fendi”标语以圆形状刻在眼镜前方和轻薄的金属眼镜臂上。

Retro feeling The latest women’s glasses and sunglasses collection by Fendi for the 2020 spring/summer season has a retor inspiration and stands out for a more contemporary interpretation of the maison’s codes. Whilst the Fendi Dawn line is adorned with the FF logo around the lens and the delicate, natural nuances of the frame, the FF Fendi range celebrates the brand’s typical logos on thin, modern frames decked with the Beijing design or the “FF” symbol scattered around the lens frames. The F is Fendi collection is covered in the logo, including the slogan “F is Fendi” in a round shape on the front and on the thin metal arms. www.fendi.com

By Malene Birger 的 2020 早春系列充满生命力，色彩缤纷、图案多样，有趣且让人惊喜。该系列保持了品牌的专业和酷风格，汇聚高品质的基础款和大胆的创新款式，十分赏心悦目。创作灵感源于旅行，参考哥本哈根的穿衣风格，再一次向丹麦的设计传统致敬。在传统之上再融入优雅剪裁、法式面料和英式田园风，有超大码和方格图案供选择。

Full of life Fun and unexpected, the 2020 pre-spring proposals from By Malene Birger are full of life, colour and patterns. Maintaining a professional and cool style, this collection is a combination of high-quality basics and bolder pieces that make you smile. Inspired by travelling, the brand’s new pieces draw inspiration, once again, from the heritage of Danish design and the way people dress in Copenhagen. This legacy is intertwined with elegant silhouettes, French fabrics and English countryside clothes that come in oversized versions and chequered patterns. www.bymalenebirger.com

Essential BAZAAR

经典气息 Tod’s 托德斯全新秋冬系列旨在重塑经典。这是新上任的创意总监 Walter Chiapponi 首秀，采用真皮材质，充满意大利风情和精致品味。双排扣大衣、西服套装、滑雪服、冬外套、防风雨大衣和驾驶服都堪称经典，更提有不同尺寸和材质供选择。配饰方面， Tod’s 特别推出招牌系列—— “gommino 乐福鞋”，此外也新添了绒面革和皮革驾驶鞋。

活力迸发 Lacoste 拉科斯特全新的 Novak Djokovic 诺瓦克·德约科维奇经典款太阳镜系列具备优雅的运动气质，充满活力和时代气息。新款太阳镜采用线条流畅的矩形设计和轻薄金属结构，轻盈便携，适合大多数场合；镜框材质采用精致的醋酸纤维，而双鼻托和眼镜臂上还镌有 Petit Piqué 字样。品牌标志刻在右镜片位置，并在眼镜臂末端交织镌刻网球明星德约科维奇姓名的首字母“ND”。提供四种颜色选择：条纹灰、条纹褐、哈瓦那色和蓝色。

舒适有型

Classic mood

商旅箱包品牌 Tumi 途明的 Alpha Bravo 系列推出不同风格的新品，采用弹道尼龙布材质，灵感源自军装。最受瞩目的是 Lark 双肩包，两个磁性卡扣有助保持背包安全闭合，且开包时可以充分展开，方便整理包里的物品。较小型的 Lance 背包则采用卷顶设计，还有一个特别的金属锁，大隔层配有 éclair 拉链。Alpha Bravo 系列提供森林绿、灰色、石墨色、海军蓝、黑色皮革和深褐色皮革等六种颜色选择。

The newest autumn/winter collection by Tod’s is based on rediscovering the classics. In his debut as the brand’s new creative director, Walter Chiapponi presents a selection of authentic pieces, which stand out for their Italian style and refined taste. True classics such as pea coats, suits, ski jackets, winter coats, trench coats and driving coats have been updated in different sizes and materials. As for accessories, Tod’s highlights their famous gommino loafers, a true staple for the brand, along with suede and leather driving shoes. www.tods.com

Dynamic attitude Lacoste’s new Novak Djokovic capsule collection of sunglasses features a sport-inspired elegance and reflects a dynamic and contemporary attitude. With a smooth, rectangular shape, thin-metal structure and a delicate acetate rim around the lenses, this new model is light and versatile and is characterised by the Petit Piqué pattern engraved on the double bridge and thin arms. The logo can be found on the right lens, complemented by the “ND” monogram on the tips of the arms. These glasses are available in four colours: Striped Grey, Striped Brown, Havana and Blue. www.lacoste.com

特别版腕表 Vacheron Constantin 江诗丹顿推出 Les Cabinotiers 阁楼工匠超薄三问报时“浪漫音符”腕表。该腕表属于 “La Musique du Temps”系列，以复杂工艺著称，配有 18 克拉 5N 玫瑰金表壳，直径 41 毫米，而厚度仅有 8.5 毫米，采用大明火珐琅工艺制成。腕表灵感源自 4261 型号，此单一款限量版搭载 1731 超薄三问机芯，将超薄外形、纯净音质与美学魅力巧妙糅合，同时非常坚固可靠。

Special watch Comfort and style The latest pieces from Tumi’s Alpha Bravo collection, inspired by the military and in ballistic nylon, come in different styles. The standout is the Lark backpack, with two magnetic clips, which help keep it securely closed, as well as a wide opening for easy organising. Smaller and with a roll top, the Lance backpack is characterised by its metal lock and a main compartment with éclair zipper. The colours selected from the collection vary from Forest, grey, Graphite, Navy, black leather and dark-brown leather. www.tumi.com

Vacheron Constantin presents “Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Ultra-thin – A romantic note”. This creation, part of the La Musique du Temps collection, which is renowned for its complexity, comes in a 5N, 18-carat rose-gold case with 41mm in diameter and is just 8.5mm thick, with Grand Feu enamel. Inspired by reference 4261, this one-piece edition watch is equipped with an 1731 ultra-thin minute repetition calibre and perfectly combines ultra-thin thickness, pure sound, pleasant aesthetics, reliability and robustness. www.vacheronconstantin.com

澳门精华 | 2020年 2月- 3月 | 69

Essential CAR

无与伦比的埃尔瓦 Outside the box 世上有两种汽车，迈凯伦和其他汽车，然后又有了埃尔瓦。即使对迈凯伦而言，埃尔瓦也是个美丽的奇迹 There are cars, then there are McLarens, then there is the Elva. Even for such a company, this is a new kind of amazing 文/by GUILHERME MARQUES 70 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2020 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

迈

凯伦-埃尔瓦（McLaren Elva）是英国跑车制造商迈凯伦汽车公司推出的最新终极系列（Ultimate Series）跑车。终极系列是迈凯伦公司推出的最无与伦比和震撼人心的车型，系列已有车型包括 P1、塞纳（Senna）和 Speedtail 跑车。现在，迈凯伦更加别出心裁推出了埃尔瓦（Elva），品牌首辆开放式座舱公路跑车。埃尔瓦仅限量生产 399 台，势必成为迈凯伦史上的全新里程碑。埃尔瓦的研发是为了祝贺 1960 年代布鲁斯·迈凯伦（Bruce McLaren）设计的 M1A 和三款 Elva M1A 车型。当时，它们基本上算是７代迈凯伦赛车的“客户”版本。迈凯伦汽车首席执行官迈克 ·弗莱维特（Mike Flewitt）始终认为：“迈凯伦继续推动超级跑车和混动汽车的发展极限，追求为客户

提供无与伦比的卓越驾驶体验。迈凯伦-埃尔瓦正是这种开拓精神的缩影。埃尔瓦及其后续产品在许多方面都体现了当代迈凯伦跑车的先驱精神——超轻型中置发动机汽车，具有顶级驾驶和动态性能。新款迈凯伦终极系列跑车埃尔瓦是迈凯伦历久弥新之作，是一款独一无二的现代汽车，在驾驶员、汽车和各种元素之间实现了终极联接，在道路或赛道上提供了极致的全新驾驶乐趣。” 在超跑市场上，迈凯伦一直都是业界先锋。品牌充分利用自己丰富辉煌的历史，在不到十年的时间里，凭借其款款出类拔萃的车型跻身跑车界的顶级梯队。自从 MP412C 于 2011 年作为迈凯伦汽车公司的首个量产车型问世以来，阿尔瓦无疑是最令人震撼的车型。

he McLaren Elva is the latest model in the Ultimate Series of cars, the most exclusive, most spectacular models built by the British manufacturer, where already sit the P1, the Senna and the Speedtail. Now, McLaren have shown an even more outlandish proposal, called the Elva, their first open-cockpit road car. Built in very limited numbers – only 399 units – the Elva is set to be a landmark car in the history of McLaren. It was developed to celebrate the M1A and the three Elva M1A designed by Bruce McLaren in the Sixties, which were basically customer versions of the Group 7 McLaren competition cars. Mike Flewitt, CEO of McLAren Automotive, is adamant in his view of what a McLaren 澳门精华 | 2020年 2月- 3月 | 71

Essential CAR

埃尔瓦是一辆极限双座跑车，底盘和车身都采用定制的碳纤维材料。该车没有挡风玻璃、没有车门，更没有车顶，实用功能完全不在这辆车的考虑范围内。无论是在道路上还是赛道上，埃尔瓦的唯一目标就是为驾驶者提供绝无仅有的驾驶乐趣。同其他迈凯伦跑车一样，埃尔瓦配备了一台 4.0 升的双涡轮增压 V8 发动机，提供高达 815 马力的动力和 800 牛米的扭矩。发动机的平面曲轴、干式油底壳润滑和轻型连接凸轮轴、杆和活塞，可减轻动力总成的质量。动力通过七速无缝变速箱传递至后轮，并与起步控制功能配合使用，性能令人叹为观止：

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should be: “McLaren continues to push the boundaries of supercar and hypercar development in pursuit of outstanding and unparalleled driving experiences for our customers and the McLaren Elva epitomises that pioneering spirit. The McLaren-Elva M1A [Mk1] and its successors are in many ways the true spiritual forerunners of today’s McLarens – superlight, mid-engined cars with the highest levels of performance and dynamic excellence. It’s fitting that the new McLaren Ultimate Series roadster – a uniquely modern car that delivers the ultimate connection between driver, car and the

Essential CAR

从静止状态（0-62mph）至每小时 100 公里的速度行驶不到三秒钟，而迈凯伦 -埃尔瓦比迈凯伦塞纳更快，仅用 6.7 秒就可达到 200 公里/小时（0-124 英里/小时）。埃尔瓦的输出功率之所以更为强大是因为迈凯伦对排气系统进行了优化，采用轻量材料制成，如钛和铬镍铁合金。迈凯伦史上第一次，排气饰面采用 3D 打印技术打印，因为唯有通过这种方式才能实现工程师设计的独特形状。埃尔瓦底盘设计也是为了最大程度地提升驾驶乐趣而非单纯的提高车速。“迈凯伦埃尔瓦是真正的终极跑车；它纯粹是为了驾驶的乐趣而存在，它通过汽车、驾驶员和各个元素之间的终极联系来缔造令人着迷的沉浸式驾驶体验。埃尔瓦是我们制造的最轻量公路车，它的敏捷性和凶猛速度令人难以置信，其 815PS 双涡轮增压 V8 发动机可提供令人叹为观止的性能。”迈凯伦终极系列汽车线总监安迪 ·帕尔默（Andy Palmer）表示。显然，除了性能以外，埃尔瓦的造型并不像是一辆汽车，而更像是一艘刚刚着陆的

elements and with that new heights of driving pleasure on road or track – acknowledges our rich heritage with the Elva name.” McLaren have been shaking the waters in the supercar market, making use of a name with a rich and glorious history and applying it to a catalogue of cars that in under a decade’s time reached the upper echelons of their segment. The Elva is arguably the most incredible model since the MP4-12C met the light of day in 2011 and introduced McLaren Automotive as a series production car constructor. The Elva is n extreme two-seater with a bespoke carbon-fibre chassis and body. It boasts no windscreen, no doors and no roof. Practical considerations were simply not taken into consideration in this car’s briefing. It is all about driving pleasure and the heightening of every emotion behind the wheel, either on the road or on the track. The Elva, much like every other McLaren, comes with a 4.0-litre, twin-turbocharged V8, in a barely believable tune of 815 horse

power and 800 Nm of torque. It features a flat-plane crankshaft, dry-sump lubrication and lightweight connecting camshafts, rods and pistons that reduce mass in the powertrain. Power is directed to the rear wheels through a seven-speed seamless-shift gearbox, and working in conjunction with a launch control function, the performance is breathtaking: 100km/h from a standstill is reached in less than three seconds, while the McLaren Elva is quicker than the McLaren Senna to 200km/h at just 6.7 seconds. The increased power output comes from an optimized exhaust system built out of lightweight materials, such as titanium and Inconel. In a first for McLaren, the exhaust was developed using 3D printing technology, the only possible way to achieve the shape desired by the engineers. In terms of chassis, it is tuned to maximize the driving experience and not to achieve lap times. From Andy Palmer, the Elva’s Production Line Director: “The McLaren Elva is a true 澳门精华 | 2020年 2月- 3月 | 73

Essential CAR

宇宙飞船。没有人会看着它去思量它能跑多快，或它在弯道上的表现如何；每个人，无一例外，都会被它的外形所震撼。埃尔瓦就是为这个外形而生。汽车市场都清楚迈凯伦会制造超跑汽车；但没人能想到迈凯伦可以如此大胆。埃尔瓦既惊艳又独具匠心，但这也表明，迈凯伦竟然对自己如此有信心，大胆到把自己的想法施展到这样的项目上。

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客户可以根据自定用途对埃尔瓦进行个性化定制选择。迈凯伦打造了一系列的装饰，用于装饰驾驶舱，而且毫不夸张的说，在即将生产的 399 辆埃尔瓦中，不会有完全相同的车。标配中并不包含音响系统，但客户可以指定定制音响系统，半热熔轮胎、超轻型轮毂和升降系统也是如此。如果你在城里驾驶没有挡风玻璃的车就需要戴头盔

（在某些国家这是强制措施），因此升降系统是必要的。终极定制服务则由迈凯伦定制服务部 McLaren Special Operations 负责，只要您想到的他们都可以做得到。在英国，埃尔瓦标价 1,425,000 英镑，是史上售价最高的迈凯伦车型。这也不足为奇，因为它的确是品牌最独具匠心、不同凡响的杰作。 쐽

Essential CAR

Ultimate roadster; it exists purely for the pleasure of driving, to deliver an enthralling and immersive experience born from the ultimate connection between the car, the driver and the elements. The lightest road car we’ve ever built at McLaren Automotive, the Elva is incredibly agile and ferociously fast, its 815PS twin-turbocharged V8 engine providing breathtaking performance.” Obviously, beyond any performance considerations, the Elva looks like a spaceship that has just landed, not so much a car. No one will look at an Elva and think how fast it is or how well it goes around a corner; everyone, no

exceptions, will go speechless at the way it looks. The Elva exists so it can look like it does. The market already knew McLaren could build super fast cars; what we didn’t know was that they could risk something like this. The appearance of the Elva is as striking as it is unique – but it is also a testament to a company that is so sure of itself that it can expand itself to a project of this nature. Customers can personalise their vehicles according to its intended use. McLaren have created a series of trims dedicated to an opencockpit car and realistically, from the 399 that will be produced, it is possible that no two are

alike. There is no audio system as standard, although it can be specified, along with semislick tyres, super lightweight wheels and a lift system if you are planning on driving into town in a car with no windscreen and with a helmet on (mandatory on some countries). Extreme customization is taken up by McLaren Special Operations, where options are as big as the imagination. In England, the Elva is priced at £1,425,000, making it the most expensive McLaren Automotive ever made. That makes sense, because it is also the most incredible, otherworldly idea they have ever had. 쐽

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惊艳豪车 Luxury Lifestyle LC 敞篷版是雷克萨斯史上最美车型，让人梦寐以求 The LC Convertible is the most striking Lexus ever built and a true object of desire 文/by GUILHERME MARQUES

Essential CAR

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雷克萨斯（Lexus）LC 于 2017 年问世时，就已自定位为全球最美汽车之一。从比例到细节，一切都完美无缺。然后有人提出：LC 如果以敞篷车型面世又会有多迷人呢？当然，除了雷克萨斯总部外，没人知道雷克萨斯在考虑推出敞篷版车型。就 LC 的平台和底盘而言，开发敞篷车也不无可能，但只有品牌工程师们明白并对此讳莫如深。就这样，三年过去了，所有的愿望都变成了现实。随着雷克萨斯逐渐将自身定位为豪华车品牌，像 LC 敞篷版这样的车型自然成为品牌朝豪华方向发展的关键。这就不仅仅关乎性能、品质或技术——能令一辆汽车与别不同而让人渴望拥有和使用的一切元素都息息相关。全新 LC 敞篷车外形绝对引入入胜。该车融合了轿跑车车顶轮廓与敞篷车顶的独特特征，是目前雷克萨斯产品中最为性感迷人的一款车型。它秉承了赛车“激动人心的卓越”

驾驶性能，与敞篷车的独特个性融为一体更是无出其右。该车采用了 LC 轿跑车的车身比例并加以改善，保留了其杰出的空气动力效率和最佳的配重比例。雷克萨斯表示， LC 敞篷车融绝妙的功能于一身，他们所言不虚。车身结构设计达到了轿跑车的坚固度，这意味着品牌开发了一款特别的轻量铝材悬架支撑，与车身减震拉杆协同工作，打造出无与伦比的舒适驾驶体验。不难看出，雷克萨斯为确保 LC 的卓越驾驶性能不遗余力。由于雷克萨斯比其他汽车品牌更注重细节，所以 LC 要在任何角度和情况下都要展现完美形象。为了确保这一点，工程师们打造了一个机械装置，将可折叠织布软车顶存储在一个一体座后车厢盖布下，从而令汽车呈现出一个赏心悦目的轮廓。4 层织物软顶内部的骨架隐形，以防过度暴露的骨架破坏车顶的线条，足见品牌对细节的追求无处不在。

hen the LC came out in 2017 it immediately position itself as one of the most beautiful cars on sale at a global level. The proportions, the detailing, everything was right. And then somebody said: how good would it look like as a convertible? Except, of course, outside Lexus HQ, nobody knew if the Japanese brand was even considering an open top version. Looking at the car, it seemed doable, in terms of its platform and chassis, but only the engineers had that information. Et voilá, here we are, three years later, and everyone’s wishes have come true. As Lexus moves towards a more luxury lifestyle-oriented brand, cars like the LC Convertible are pivotal in exploring that philosophy. It’s not about one thing: performance or quality or technology – it’s about everything that makes a car special to own and special to use.

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品牌对制作敞篷软顶的织物进行悉心挑选，以确保织布实现最佳张力且没有褶皱，并实现最佳的隔音效果。同 LC 其他方面一样，敞篷软顶的打开和闭合也体现了世界一流的工程技术和极高品质。车顶可以在运行速度不超过 50km/h 时打开，打开仅需 15 秒，而关闭只要 16 秒。 LC 敞篷版搭载了 5.0 升 V8 自然进气引擎、10 速 DirectShift 自动换挡变速箱。该车可以根据驾驶环境管理输出功率，按照司机意愿，可时而平稳加速，时而勇猛飞飙。LC 敞篷车从 Eco 到 Sport+共有五种驾驶模式，无论从性能还是整体感觉上都有着天然的差异。自定义模式让司机可以按个人喜好调整汽车的每个设置，令驾驶体验个性化。 LC 首先是一辆大型豪华旅行汽车，而不是一辆纯粹的赛车。这意味着车厢中充满了惊喜。雷克萨斯很清楚这一点，并再次营造了一种奢华与精致并存的氛围。环绕式仪表板给人以运动气息，对汽车的感知度更高，而较低的驾驶位置则令驾驶 78 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2020 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

The new LC Convertible looks absolutely stunning. Blending the coupé roofline with the unique character of an open top experience, this is certainly the most emotional product in the current Lexus catalogue. It follows the tin top’s ‘Exhilarating Performance’ driving signature, further enhanced by a sense of unity with nature that only a convertible can offer. The design evolved from the coupé proportions, retaining excellent aerodynamic efficiency and optimal weight distribution. Lexus say the LC convertible incorporated functional beauty into its body shape and there is no denying they are absolutely right. The body structure was engineered to achieve coupé levels of rigidity, which meant developing a specific suspension tower brace in lightweight aluminium to work in tandem with a performance damper for superior ride comfort. This is a testament to the lengths Lexus went to ensure the right feeling of the car on the road.

Because Lexus cares about attention to detail like arguably no other brand, it was vital that the LC looked good in every situation. To ensure this, the engineers created a mechanism that stores the folding fabric roof under an integrated tonneau cover, thus providing a harmonious profile. The 4-layer soft top comes as close to the flowing roofline of the coupé as it was possible, making do without the supporting frame visible through the fabric. Attention to detail is everywhere. The fabric of the roof was meticulously selected to ensure improved sound insulation with optimal tension and no wrinkling. The opening and closing movement boast a sense of quality and world-class engineering, much like every other aspect of the car. The roof can be operated up to 50km/h and takes a mere 15 seconds to open and one second longer when closing. Under the bonnet, the LC Convertible is launched with a 5.0 litre V8, mated to a Direct-

Essential CAR

员与汽车紧密贴合并能享受前方的每个弯道。座椅设计堪称完美，每个旋钮和按钮都具有世界一流的触感。如果有过度工程设计这回事，那肯定就是 LC 的座椅了。 LC 的车厢还具有一个出类拔萃的特征：它让人感觉独特。乘客一点都不会怀疑自己乘坐的是雷克萨斯。这不是德国人的行事方式，只是更青出于蓝。独具匠心才是雷克萨斯的风格。信息娱乐系统采用 10.3 英寸宽屏屏幕，配有 DAB 数字音频广播、智能手机连接、卫星导航等功能。要适应所有功能应该需要一段时间，但是驾乘 LC 的时光总是美好的。仪表盘上的 8 英寸的 TFT 液晶显示屏为车上这个重要系统锦上添花。雷克萨斯的主动降噪静音系统（Active Noise Control）是品牌管理车内噪音的关键系统。通过消除来自外部的不必要的噪音和令人反感的音频，营造出一个静谧的车内环境，让 LC 敞篷车成为每次旅行的完美座驾。此外，雷克萨斯还配置了一个音频系统，其音响功能可随着敞篷的开关而自动调整，让人在任何情况下都能充分享受一个愉悦的驾乘环境。最重要的是，雷克萨斯温度管家（Lexus Climate Concierge）会根据车顶位置自动控制调节空调、座椅、颈部和方向盘加热装置。 LC 敞篷版不适合那些想要低调的人。事实上，LC 敞篷车的一切都是要与众不同和独一无二。雷克萨斯总有不费吹灰之力造就经典的能力。 쐽

Shift 10-speed automatic transmission. The car manages the power output according to driving conditions, balancing smooth acceleration with brutal performance, as per the driver’s wishes. There are five driving modes ranging from Eco to Sport+, with the natural differences between them in performance and overall feel of the car. The Custom mode allows the driver to adapt every setting of the car to his preferences and personalise even further the driving experience. The LC is first and foremost a grand touring kind of car, not an all-out track weapon. This means the cabin must be a place of wonder. Gladly, Lexus are well aware of that and have once again created an ambience where luxury and refinement go hand in hand.

The wraparound dashboard gives it a sportier look, with higher perceived involvement with the machine, whereas the low driving position invites the driver to bond intimately with the car and enjoy every corner ahead. The seats are perfection and every knob and button feel world class to the touch. If there is something like over-engineering, this is certainly it. The LC’s cabin also has a very special trait: it feels unique. Never for a second are the passengers in any doubt of being in anything other than a Lexus. This is not the way Germans do things and is all the better for it. Being original is the Lexus way. The infotainment system uses a 10.3in widescreen with DAB radio, smartphone connectivity, sat-nav and much more. It takes a while to get used to all the functions, but time in the LC is always time well spent. The 8-inch TFT display in the instrument binnacle is a logical complement to the central system. Lexus’ Active Noise Control is a key system in the Japanese brand desire to manage the sound inside the car. By supressing unwanted noises and unpleasant frequencies from the exterior and creating a cocoon of tranquillity, the LC Convertible becomes a car for every journey. Furthermore, Lexus have incorporated an audio system whose acoustic functions change with the top up or down, providing a space that can be fully enjoyed in every situation. To top things off, the Lexus Climate Concierge automatically controls air conditioning, seat, neck and steering wheel heaters with regards to the positioning of the roof. The LC Convertible is not a car for those who want to blend in. In everything it does, in fact, it stands out as unique and extremely special. Lexus have hit the jackpot and created an instant classic. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2020年 2月- 3月 | 79

Essential WELLBEING

身心相连 Connecting the body and mind 圣雄甘地曾说：“你的信念会变成你的思想。你的思想会变成你的言语。你的言语会变成你的行为。你的行为会变成你的习惯。你的习惯会变成你的价值观。你的价值观会变成你的命运。” As Mahatma Gandhi said: “Your beliefs become your thoughts. Your thoughts become your words. Your words become your actions. Your actions become your habits. Your habits become your values. Your values become your destiny.” 文/by IRENE SAM

在

现代世界，人们不断面临着社会和个人生活的变化。如果缺乏方法和技巧去应对烦恼，通常就会导致失眠和焦虑—— 这在城市人当中越来越常见。为了帮助人们重拾平衡和安乐，Buathon Thienarrom 博士结合她在心理学、藏医和道医方面的专长，为苦恼的人创造并定制出有效的疗法。Buathon 博士是亚洲顶级的替代性疗法专家。在早期从事护士工作时，Buathon 博士就发现心的力量本身就具有疗愈人体的效果。她好奇地想了解思维与人体的互动关系，于是修读了辅导心理学学位，随后也学习了三个月的道家课程，从中了解到能量是如何影响身心健康的。

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Buathon 博士解释说：“在工作期间，我会遇到各个国家的人，从中我发现我们所处的社会文化和信念会为我们带来各种疾病。为了进一步探索，我进修了卫生社会学，主要研究导致疾病的社会状况。我也深入研究了替代性疗法，想借此了解身与心之间的联系，也遍访过泰国和西藏的佛家大师。我努力了解人如何可以将心驯服，从而应对有问题的精神情况。出于对佛法的探求，我也花费三年时间学习藏医，专注于健康和灵性方面。” 对 Buathon 博士而言，学习藏医让她更深入地理解到情绪状态是如何影响身体的构造或元素的。后来，她结合东方的古老智慧与西方心理学，进一步加强了对行为科学

n the modern world, human beings are constantly confronted by changes in society and their personal life. Lack of methods and skills to deal with afflictive emotions can often cause insomnia and anxiety, which are becoming common issues among city dwellers. Determined to assist individuals in regaining a sense of balance and wellbeing, Dr Buathon Thienarrom — one of the leading experts of alternative medicines in Asia — combines her expertise in psychology, Tibetan and Taoist medicine to create tailormade effective treatments for the distressed. Early in her career as a nurse, Dr Buathon realised the power of the mind is intrinsic in

的理解。最终在领悟道家学说之后，Buathon 博士开始尝试身体的能量练习以及对身体进行精准的观察。经过多年的训练，Buathon 博士运用她所有宝贵的知识，研发出自己的按摩疗愈法，并取名为 “ZenNaTai”，意为校准思维、感受和觉知的能量。 “当大脑忙于思考时，我们就完全关闭了内心的感受和腹部的觉知。 ZenNaTai 旨在让思维放慢下来，允许身体进入放松和深呼吸的节奏，以求达到 ‘无念 ’的状态。此疗法的精髓在于达到一种精神状态，能够引导全身更深入地放松，从而让生命力能量，即‘气’，流动起来。达到这种状态后，我们也会按摩胸部以促进深呼吸，从而释放出储存在肺部的悲伤感和腹部的情绪紧张感，同时也能恢复体力。”Buathon 博士补充说。 Buathon 博士经过在各种健康领域的大量研究后，她认为心识才是主宰者，它在很大程度上决定着我们人体如何进行各种活动。当心识在正面地思考时，它会持续提升着精神能量和身体能量的震频，从而成为一种疗愈疾病的力量，并让内在能量流动的更好。 “我们有时候可能会陷入负面思维，这些思维会降低我们的能量水平。当我们无法将心识重新引导到正面思维或进行转化时，就要寻求专业协助。对人类而言，当我们找到能提供希望或满足感的事物时，我们就能提升我们的能量并去争取更大的成就。” Buathon 博士指出。 Buathon 博士在心理学上的造诣，也非常有助于她识别人们的心识状况和情绪状态。要对心识进行 “定位 ”并与其合作，就需要一些工具，而呼吸就是最好的工具。很多时 82 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2020 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

healing the human body. Curious to learn more about thoughts and human interactions, she chose to pursuit a degree in Counselling Psychology before taking a three-month course studying Taoism, which outlined how energy is involved in physical and mental wellbeing. “Through my work, I meet people from different countries, and I realised that the social culture and beliefs we live under bring us various illness. To explore further, I studied the sociology of health, which focuses on social conditions that cause ailments,” she explains. “I also did in-depth studies of alternative medicine to understand the interconnection of body and mind, visiting Buddhist masters in Thailand as well as Tibetan Buddhist masters. I tried to understand how we could tame our mind to overcome mental conditions that cause issues. With an emphasis on Buddhist philosophy, I studied Tibetan medicine for three years, focusing on health and spirituality.” For Dr Buathon, Tibetan medicine provides a deeper understanding of emotional states that influence the body constitution or body elements. She then merges ancient Eastern wisdom with Western psychology to further strengthen the understanding of behavioural science. Finally, a comprehension of Taoism makes energetic physical practice and precise physical observation possible. After years of training and with all her valuable knowledge, Dr Buathon developed her own method of massage healing named ZenNaTai,

conceptually based on aligning the energy of thinking, feeling and awareness. “When the brain is busy thinking, we totally switch off the feeling in our heart and awareness in the gut, or abdomen. ZenNaTai aims to slow down thoughts, allowing the body to fall into a rhythm of relaxation, deep breathing and hopefully reaching a state of zero thoughts. The treatment’s essence is reaching a mental state that guides the entire body to deeper relaxation, allowing “chi,” or life force energy, to flow. From there, we also work on the chest to promote deep breathing to release sadness stored in the lungs and emotional tension in the abdomen and to recharge physical energy,” she adds. Through her extensive studies in various fields of wellbeing, Dr Buathon believes that the mind is the master, and it is the key that drives our physical body to move forward for any activity. Once the mind is thinking positively, it will keep on uplifting the vibration of mental and physical energy as a force to overcome illnesses, generating a better inner energy flow. “Some of us may get stuck on negative thoughts that lower our energy levels. If one is not able to redirect the mind to positive thoughts or transform the mind, they will require professional advice. As human beings, once we find something that provides hope or satisfaction, we are able to increase our energy and strive for greater achievements,” she points out. Dr Buathon’s background in psychology is very helpful in identifying someone’s mind

Essential WELLBEING

候，Buathon 博士也会利用精油来让客人平静下来，从而能够专注于身体与心识之连接。此外还有一种有趣的工具，就是一系列的颂钵，能够产生声音和波动。 “由金属制作的七个为一套的满月颂钵能够发出金属的深入震动，让我们体内的水潮跳动起来。人体含有 70%的水份，而颂钵发出的震动有助于让心识平静下来，即让脑波放缓，从而加快进入冥想的准备状态。在冥想状态下，人们会更容易停止不断的思考，从而达到休息的目的。颂钵的震动还能促进血液循环和淋巴流动。肌肉也会得到放松，并将湿热排出体外。最终，沉积的毒素会从我们的血液循环中流出，因为热已经产生并被排出。你会感觉更轻盈，而随着心识平静下来，它便能够完全地放松。在高级的心识练习中，你可以利用颂钵的震动来转化心识以及将精神能量提升到更接近于你想获得的精神状态。”Buathon 博士说。传统中医认为，若身体某些部位存在紧张或堵塞，这意味着“气”的郁结。Buathon 博士建议可以做一个简单的吸气练习，慢慢地将内在能量增强并流到堵塞的区域。我们可以想象身体是一个气球，随着吸气，气球逐渐充满气体。经过几轮的吸气和呼气，身体便释放了紧张感，同时被能量填满。为了进一步转化学员的心识，Buathon 博士经常带领学员在喜马拉雅山脉举办疗愈营。 2020 年 5 月， Buathon 博士会在不丹的布姆唐镇(Bumthang)举办一次“不丹神圣营”。对于想踏上灵性之路的人们，这将是个极好的机会。 “不丹被誉为全球幸福感最高的国家，具有负碳生态疗法的理念。在过去两次到访不丹的过程中，我设法与纯净的大自然相感应，以求获得灵性的觉醒。布姆唐镇的能量场能让人与真我连接，同时人们也能学到本地藏传佛教的功法。这将会提升一个人的震频。”Buathon 博士总结说。 쐽

condition and emotional state. Trying to “locate” the mind and work with it requires a tool, and breathing is the best choice available. Oftentimes, Dr Buathon also uses essential oils to calm down the patient so that they can concentrate on connecting the body and mind. Another interesting tool is a set of singing bowls that produce sounds and waves. “The quality of the seven full-moon, singing metal bowls provides a deep vibration from the metals that make the water tide pulse within us. Our body is 70% water and the vibrations help to calm the mind or slow brain waves,

facilitating the pre-meditation state. In a meditative state, it is easy to let go and rest the busy mind. The vibration also stimulates circulation and lymphatic flow. Muscles relax and release damp heat out of the body and, at the end, sedimentation toxin flows out from our circulation as heat is generated and released. You will feel lighter and as the mind pacifies, it is able to fully relax. For advanced mind practice, you can use the vibrations of the bowl to transform the mind and elevate mental energy closer to your mental purpose,” she says. According to traditional Chinese medicine, the presence of tension or blockage means that one’s “chi” is stagnant. Dr Buathon recommends a simple technique of inhalation, slowly enhancing internal energy to flow to the blockage area. One can imagine the body as a balloon, as inhalation fills it with air. Through several rounds of inhalation and exhalation, the body releases tension and becomes replenished with energy. To further transform the mind of her students, Dr Buathon often leads groups to healing retreats in the Himalayas. In May of 2020, she will host a Bhutan Sacred Retreat, which will be taking place in the Bhutanese town of Bumthang. It offers an excellent opportunity for individuals to connect to a spiritual path. “Bhutan is known as the happiest country in the world, with a carbon-negative ecotherapy ideology. From my previous two visits to the country, I managed to connect with pure nature for a spiritually awakening experience. The energetic field of Bumthang enables one to connect with the true self whilst absorbing the indigenous practice of Tibetan Buddhism. It will raise vibration within a being,” she concludes. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2020年 2月- 3月 | 83

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Essential LUXURY

奢侈品牌发布新品迎鼠年 Luxury brands celebrate the Chinese New Year 2020 年是中国农历鼠年，鼠年在每十二年一个轮回的十二生肖中是起始之年 Here comes 2020, Year of the Rat, the first of the 12-year cycle of animals in the Chinese zodiac 文/by EDWINA LIU

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着中国市场对奢侈品牌越发重要，越来越多大牌竭力施展浑身解数迎接农历新年的到来。鼠年将在 2020 年 1 月 25 日开启，到 2021 年 2 月 12 日结束。为了吸引中国顾客的目光，各大奢侈品牌均推出特别版鼠年新品贺岁。 Chopard 萧邦以经典风格、精美造工和精湛技艺而闻名，品牌为农历新年推出的新品正正拥有这些品质。为造就 L.U.C XP 鼠年蒔绘腕表，Chopard 萧邦特别採用日本传统蒔绘工艺，将生漆和金粉融合，打造表盘。表盘上所呈现的场景，是一只金鼠站在象征丰收富足的玉米穗上，对面则是一颗柿子，这种采摘于冬季的水果象征福寿绵长。金鼠对面还有一束鲜花，采用了生肖鼠年的幸运色：蓝色、金色和绿色三种色彩。全球限量 88 枚，L.U.C XP 鼠年蒔绘腕表的表盘由 Chopard 萧邦和其忠实合作伙伴山田平安堂（Yamada Heinado）联合打造，由日本漆艺大师以日本传统莳绘工艺悉心创造。这是瑞士手表珠宝品牌 Chopard 萧邦恪守本真，致敬珍稀技艺和手工艺传统的又一杰作。腕表以 18K 玫瑰金材质打造，搭配 L.U.C 96.17-L 自动上链机芯，厚度仅 3.3 毫米，动力储存达 65 小时。

ith China’s growing importance to luxury brands, more and more are making devoted efforts for the Lunar New Year. The Year of the Rat will begin on January 25 2020 and end on February 12 2021. To attract the attention of Chinese consumers, luxury brands have released special-edition Year of the Rat products. Chopard is celebrated for classic styles, fine finishes and technical mastery – attributes that describe its offering for the Lunar New Year. For its L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Rat, the brand combines the Japanese art of Urushi and lacquer with gold dust to create the dial. The scene depicts a golden rat, standing on an ear of corn – a symbol of abundance – and in front of a khaki, a fruit that is picked in winter and represents longevity. It is facing a bouquet of flowers in the three lucky colours of its zodiac sign: blue, gold and green. Limited to only 88 pieces, the dials were a collaboration between Chopard and its loyal partner company, Yamada Heinado, where the grand master of Urushi exercises his craft. This is one of the many demonstrations of the Swiss maison’s deep-felt attachment to celebrating rare skills and artistic crafts. The watch is crafted in 18-carat rose gold and powered by L.U.C 96.17-L calibre, which is just 3.3mm thick, and has a comfortable 65-hour power reserve. 澳门精华 | 2020年 2月- 3月 | 85

Essential LUXURY

瑞士腕表品牌 Blancpain 宝珀推出制表杰作——中华年历腕表，将历史悠久的中国传统农历与标准公历完美结合，迎接即将到来的 2020 农历新年。标准日历以太阳日为基本单位，中国传统农历采用阴阳历制，是以月运周期（29.53059 天）为基本单位的太阳历法。一个农历年包含 12 个农历月（354.36707 天），比一个阳历年（365.24237 天）约少 11 天。因此，每隔 2-3 年农历中便会出现一个闰月，以符合四季更迭的循环周期，这也导致了中国农历新年日期不定。此外，农历更加复杂之处在于，它采用的不是一天 24 小时、每小时 60 分钟的计时方法，而是一天 12 个时辰（每时辰等于 2 小时）的时间划分方式。这 12 个时辰以十二地支的名称顺序命名，与十二生肖一一对应。中华年历腕表搭载宝珀 3638 自动上链机芯，更配备安全调校保护装置，防止佩戴者在时间禁区内可能产生的误操作，此外，防磁硅游丝为精准走时更添保障。腕表采用 45 毫米直径铂金表壳，表冠及摆陀上分别嵌有一颗圆形切割红宝石。

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Swiss watch brand Blancpain is celebrating the Lunar New Year with a new watch from its Traditional Chinese Calendar collection. This masterpiece features a Chinese calendar as well as the date based on the Gregorian calendar. The Gregorian calendar is based on the solar day, while the lunisolar Chinese calendar is based on the lunar cycle, composed of 29,53059 days. A year of 12 lunar months is about 11 days shorter than a solar year. In order to maintain consistency with the seasonal cycle, a leap month is added to the Chinese calendar every two to three years. This distinctive feature is the reason behind the variability of the Chinese New Year date. But the complexity of this calendar does not stop there, since it uses a system of subdividing the day into 12 double hours, thus replacing the 24 hours composed of 60 minutes each featured in the Gregorian calendar. Each of these double hours is named, in successive order, after one of the twelve earthly branches and represented by one of the animals of the Chinese zodiac. Driven by a self-winding 3638 movement, the watch is secured against inappropriate manipulation of the functions and equipped with a silicon balance-spring. This exceptional movement is housed in a 45mm platinum case featuring a crown and oscillating weight adorned with a cabochon-cut ruby.

Essential LUXURY

Luxury luggage brand Rimowa wish our readers a glamourous and prosperous New Year with their new RIMOWA Attaché Gold. This elegant suitcase retains the hallmarks of its vintage predecessor while embracing modern, minimalist design. Expert handling of the material can be seen in the smooth polished surface, rounded edges and sharply defined grooves. A metallic combination lock and handle completes the monochrome presentation,

casting the case in a striking, solid gold colour. An auspicious shade for the upcoming year, and gold is a long-standing symbol of wealth and prosperity in Chinese culture. Priced at MOP 14,150, the limited-edition suitcase is available at Rimowa stores at Galaxy Macau and One Central Macau. Moreover, the brand has also launched an array of stickers that feature ancient coins and contemporary expressions of the 2020 theme.

奢侈旅行箱品牌 Rimowa 日默瓦释出全新 Attaché 金色公文箱，祝读者朋友鼠年璀璨、财运亨通。这款优雅的公文箱将复古格调与现代极简设计融于一身，对品牌的经典标志款式做出了重新诠释。公文箱用料专业独到，通体纯金色，表面光滑精致，边角圆润，凹槽清晰鲜明。配有金属密码锁，锁和把手也都采用金色，完美完成整个箱的纯金色单色演绎，惊艳又有气场。金色是鼠年的幸运色，在中国文化中千百年来都是富贵与财富的象征。限量版 Attaché 金色公文箱售价为澳门币 14,150 元，在澳门银河和澳门一号广场的 Rimowa 专卖店有售。此外，品牌还发布了一系列贴纸，上有古钱币和现代风格 2020 农历新年主题图案。

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Essential LUXURY

小红包是女士们的农历新年必备标配。法国时尚大牌 LV 路易威登呈献了许多采用农历新年标志色红色的重要配饰，例如 Dauphine 中号手袋。全新的 Dauphine Lugano 小牛皮中号手袋是 LV 路易威登 Cruise 2020 系列的经典款。手袋的光滑皮革尽显优雅，更结合了精致和标志性细节，例如带有银色 guilloche 锁状纹饰效果的金色 LV 圆形标识封扣。有多种背携方式任人选择，这款 LV 手袋是件超时尚的日常配饰。

A little red bag is a must-have item in Chinese tradition during Chinese New Year. French fashion house Louis Vuitton has presented key accessories, such as the Dauphine MM bag, in the celebration’s trademark colour – red. The new Dauphine Lugano MM is the staple of the Louis Vuitton Cruise 2020 collection. The elegance of smooth leather is combined with refined signature details like a gold LV circle lock with silver guilloche trim. Offering an array of carry options, it makes for an ultra-fashionable everyday bag.

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Essential LUXURY

为迎接 2020 鼠年的到来， ETRO 与华纳兄弟合作推出萌萌的新年特别系列，该系列以知名卡通片 Tom & Jerry 中的 Jerry 一角为设计灵感，包含中性时装和配饰，整个系列轻松有趣。闻名天下的俏皮老鼠 Jerry 点缀 T 恤、运动衫、衬衫、围巾以及以 ETRO 特有的佩斯里花纹帆布制作的多款包包、配饰和小皮具，令农历新年变得更活泼可人。

ETRO has launched an adorable capsule collection especially for the Chinese New Year. The brand collaborated with Warner Bros to realease a collection of unisex fashion and accessories, which reinterprets the symbolism of Jerry, from the Tom & Jerry cartoon, in a fun and cheerful way. This famous mouse can be found on T-shirts, sweatshirts, shirts, foulards and a selection of bags, accessories and small leather goods crafted in the iconic Paisley canvas. 澳门精华 | 2020年 2月- 3月 | 89

Essential LUXURY

Versace 范思哲也推出了一系列限量版特别配饰—— Virtus 系列——来迎接农历新年，新品只在亚太地区有售。这个独特系列包括以热情洋溢的红色打造的 Virtus 零钱包，以及精巧的 Virtus 顶部提手手提袋。手袋有红色和黑色供选择。两款新品皆采用柔软牛皮革制作，并配有古风五金配饰。其中，顶部提手手袋配备可拆卸可调节肩带，提供两种背携方式。而长方形零钱包配有由珠宝启发的精美链条包，可以肩背斜挂。这两款产品的中央均饰有 Barocco 字母 V，点缀晶莹剔透的水晶，设计别出心裁。

Versace is also welcoming the Chinese New Year with a special limited-edition range of accessories from the house’s Virtus line, which is exclusively available in the Asia-Pacific region. The exclusive collection features a chain wallet in vibrant red and a small top-handle shoulder bag available in both red and black. The designs are crafted from supple leather in a quilted finish and are embellished with antique gold-tone hardware. The small top-handle is enhanced by a detachable shoulder strap for dual functionality, while the rectangular wallet can be suspended from a delicate jewellery-inspired chain. Both styles are adorned with the signature Barocco V, s updated with clear crystals.

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Essential LUXURY

老鼠最喜欢的食物是什么 ?芝士！ Longchamp 珑骧与中国极具影响力的时尚博主 Mr. Bags 包先生联合推出一个鼠年特别限定款系列 — — Le Pliage 饺子包系列！系列全新演绎品牌标志性的手袋款，例如 Le Pliage Cuir 和迷你版 Nano Pliage，饰以金黄色芝士，生动趣味，是深色系冬衣的最佳搭配，背上立马成为元气满满女孩。这个独一无二的限量版系列只在澳门银河 Longchamp 专卖店有售。

What is the favourite food of rats? Cheese! Longchamp worked with famous Chinese blogger Mr. Bag to create a special collection titled Le Pliage. The signature bags, such as Le Pliage Cuir and the mini bag Nano Pliage, are decorated with yellow cheese, which is perfect for the dark winter outfits. This unique, limitededition collection is exclusively available at the brand’s Galaxy Macau store.

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Essential BEAUTY

美出意义 Conscious Beauty 21 世纪的生活，让大多数城市人都很少接触大自然，而且一直受到化学制品的影响。说到美容产品，人们通常会认为一支乳霜或乳液的功效始终取决于其人造的活性成分，然而，真相是，来自大自然的元素其实能更好地护理我们的肌肤 In the 21st century, many who are living in an urban environment rarely get in touch with nature and are constantly exposed to chemicals. When it comes to beauty products, one often believes that effectiveness always implies that a cream or lotion has to have some man-made active ingredients in it, but the truth is, elements from nature can take better care of our skin 文/by IRENE SAM

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肤品牌 Purearth 只取材于印度喜马拉雅山脉，用最纯净的成分滋养肌肤。Purearth 的创始人 Kavita Khosa 表示，野生的草药和植物油能解决许多皮肤问题，并且有强大的抗氧化性和修复性。Purearth 的产品也蕴含阿育吠陀医学的智慧，在配方中融入古印度的疗法。阿育吠陀医学诞生于 3,000 年前的印度，是最古老的整全疗愈系统之一。该系统认为每个人均是独一无二，因此我们都有着不同的身体类型。风型 (Vata)、火型 (Pitta)和土型(Kapha)是主要的三种体型，也分别指代着体内的三大生命能量 (doshas)。Purearth 有各种各样的产品，可以根据每个人的皮肤所需进行选择。 “从我小时候起，我就与大自然紧密连接。我会静静地观察树。我也一直倾向于使用自然疗法，而且偏爱整全的生活方式。当我长大后，那时印度还没有超市……没有洗发水和护发素，什么都没有。所以我的祖母会制作一种泥膏并将它涂满我全身，然后用几桶热水来给我洗澡。洗澡水中会放入苦楝叶，到现在我还能记起当时那种清爽和干净的感觉。每次这样洗完澡，我的皮肤都非常棒，而且还很香。”Khosa 回忆说。 Khosa 祖母涂在她身上的泥膏由檀香粉、植物油、粘土和牛奶制成。Khosa 的童年就是在如此受到大自然宠溺和愉悦的环境中长大。受此启发，她运用当地的古老智慧创造出一个护肤品系列，专门选取能促进血液循环和清除毒素的配方、疗法和对治模式，能够恢复皮肤系统的平衡与活力。 92 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2020 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

ccording to Kavita Khosa, Founder of Purearth, a skincare brand that only uses the purest of ingredients to nurture the skin from the Indian Himalayan Region, wild herbs and oils can get rid of numerous epidermal issues and have powerful antioxidative and restorative properties. Together with the wisdom of Ayurveda, ancient Indian methods of healing is also incorporated into formulations of Purearth’s products.

Developed 3,000 years ago in India, Ayurvedic medicine is one of the oldest holistic healing systems. It is based on the idea that every human being is unique, and therefore we all have different body types. Vata, Pitta, and Kapha are the three main categories or “doshas” of body types. Purearth’s products are diverse and can be selected according to personal skin needs. “Ever since I was little, I was very much in tune with nature. I would observe trees. I was always inclined to use natural remedies and prefer a holistic lifestyle. When I grew up, there were no supermarkets in India... no shampoo or conditioner, nothing. So my grandmother would make a clay paste, put it all over my body, and then go fetch buckets of hot water for me to take bath. Neem leaves were put into the bath water, and I can still remember how I felt cool and cleaned. My skin was amazing after the treatment, and it smelled so good,” she recalls. The skin clay Khosa’s grandmother used on her was made of sandalwood powder, oil, clay, and milk. Inspired by the indulgent and sensuous way of living during her childhood, she created a skincare line that draws from timehonoured indigenous knowledge, prescribing recipes, treatments, and modalities that stimulate circulation and eliminate toxins, restoring balance and vitality to the system.

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澳门精华 | 2020年 2月- 3月 | 93

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感官之旅享受 Purearth 的产品就像踏上一场感官之旅。从典雅的玻璃瓶容器到植物油和乳霜的奢华质感，一切细节融化在肌肤上，留下美丽、健康的光泽。产品成分是在喜马拉雅山脉的冰川地形上和富含矿物质的无污染林土上进行手工采摘、提炼而得，强大的匠人精神可见一斑。在极端苛刻的环境中采得的喜马拉雅山野生沙棘和玫瑰果籽油拥有极致的纯净和效力，让肌肤从内到外都散发出美丽和健康。珍贵的植物油在风景迷人的库鲁和克什米尔山谷采摘并就地用蒸气蒸馏而得。喜马拉雅山脉的苦杏油是能深入滋养身心的产品成分之一，能够用在身体、脸部和头发上。这种苦杏油直接在采收地用传统木桶（称为 “ghani”）冷压而成，是在喜马拉雅山脉当地妇女中代代相传的圣品，使用后肌肤会感觉非常舒适和轻盈。 Khosa 通过创造 Purearth 品牌，不仅切合了自己对健康和阿育吠陀的热情，也实现了自己致力于改善印度妇女生活品质的诺言。 Khosa 曾经是华尔街的企业律师，也是德意志银行的董事，但她一直有着强烈的愿望想重新与自己的印度故乡建立联系。她卸下自己在企业领域的身份，踏上喜马拉雅山的旅程，并在那里历时多年对当地的生态环境 94 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2020 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

A JOURNEY OF THE SENSES Enjoying Purearth’s products is a journey of the senses. From the elegant glass bottles that the ingredients are housed in to the sumptuous texture of the oils and creams, everything melts onto the skin and leaves a beautiful, healthy sheen. Hand harvested from Himalayan glacierfed terrains and mineral-rich, uncontaminated forest soil, the artisanal element is intentional and powerful. Supercritically extracted Himalayan wild seabuckthorn and rosehip seed oils offer ultimate purity and potency for beauty and wellness that radiates from the inside out. Precious plant oils are steam distilled at source in the enchanting Kullu and Kashmir valleys. And one of the ingredients that enchants both the mind and body would be the Himalayan bitter apricot oil that can be used on body, face, and hair. Delightfully indulgent and light, it is cold pressed in a traditional wooden vat ‘ghani’ at source and has been known as a sacred remedy among generations of indigenous Himalayan women. Khosa has united her passion for wellness, Ayurveda and her commitment to improving the quality of life for women in India through her creation of Purearth.

A former Wall Street firm lawyer and director at Deutsche Bank, Khosa felt a deep desire to reconnect with her native land of India. She shed her corporate avatar to embark on a voyage through the Himalayas, where she spent years conducting extensive research on the ecological environment, engaging with NGOs, CBOs, women’s microcredit, and selfhelp groups in some of the most remote villages. “I wish I had became an Ayurvedic doctor early on, but I did law and was not encouraged to study. I moved to Hong Kong, and got married, and carried on with my life. I enjoyed the intellectual stimulation of negotiating contracts, doing deals and transactions, but that was not emotionally satisfying. So in 2000, I quit being a lawyer because I just wanted to go back to my roots and give back to the community,” she explains. An Ayurvedic practioner for over 20 years, she holds a diploma in Ayurveda and is a certified formulator in advanced organic cosmetic science. A yoga teacher and Vedanta student, she established Sachananda Yoga Shala, a nonprofit yoga school before founding Purearth in 2014. “I established a yoga institution back in the days when nobody knew what yoga was.

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进行大量研究，并联系各个非政府组织、社区组织、妇女小额信贷机构以及当地最偏僻的一些村庄的自助团体。 “一开始我希望自己能成为一名阿育吠陀医生，但我做了律师，而且没人支持我学医。我移居到香港，结了婚，然后继续生活。我享受在合同谈判和做交易过程中的智性刺激，但却没有精神上的满足感。所以在 2000 年，我辞去律师职务，因为我只想回到我的家乡并回馈当地社区。”Khosa 解释说。如今，Khosa 持有阿育吠陀文凭，并已作为阿育吠陀医师执业超过 20 年，同时也是先进的有机化妆品科学领域的获认证配方师。 Khosa 还是一名瑜伽老师和吠檀多学员，创立了一家非营利性的瑜伽学校“Sachananda Yoga Shala”，后来才在 2014 年成立了 Purearth。 “我成立瑜伽学校的时候还没有人知道瑜伽是什么。即使在今天，我还会偶尔遇上我以前的学生，他们中的一些人甚至已开办了自己的工作室。”Khosa 指出。 Khosa 经常会被邀请到全球不同的论坛发言，包括香港大学、喜马拉雅山回声艺术与文学节 (Himalayan Echoes Arts and Literary Festival)以及阿拉伯奢华大会 (Arab Luxury Conference)等，并因她的工作而获得女性希望基金会(Women of Hope Foundation)的提名，同时也是香港女律师协会的终身会员。她也活跃于争取女性权利的各种活动中，曾参与拍摄获奖电视纪录片——《奴隶新娘》(Slave Brides)。Khosa 一直希望推动社会变化，因此成立了 Purearth，透过这项社会倡议来支持从克什米尔到库毛恩的喜马拉雅山脉地区的创收计划。Purearth 创造的每一款产品，都会让使用者成为共同创造者，支持公平贸易，为边缘生产者创收，同时减少性别不平等情况。在很短时间内，Purearth 的产品已遍布全球 20 个奢华零售商店铺，同时于健康主题度假村和各大平台发售，忠实顾客不乏好莱坞

一线巨星、明星化妆师、设计师和作家。在不远的将来，Khosa 说她会出版一本书，教女性和男性如何制作自己的护肤品和化妆品。 “在我的书中，我已经写了关于‘kajal’的历史，这是一种在古老典籍中提及的眼线液，也写了如何利用印度酥油和其他天然材料制作这种眼线液。我也不断研究新配方，进行着各种各样的新尝试，这让我非常兴奋。 ”Khosa 透露说。 쐽

Even today I would run into my old students. Some of them have even opened their own studios,” she indicates. Regularly invited to speak globally at forums, including at the Hong Kong University, Himalayan Echoes Arts and Literary Festival and Arab Luxury Conference, Khosa was nominated for her work by the Women of Hope Foundation and is a lifelong member of the Federation of Women Lawyers, Hong Kong. An active campaigner for women's rights, she was also involved in filming Slave Brides, an awardwinning TV documentary. An intrinsic desire for social change resulted in the founding of Purearth, a social initiative that supports income generation programs in the Himalayan belt from Kashmir to Kumaon. Each Purearth creation makes the user a co-creator, supporting fair trade, income generation for marginalized producers, and reducing gender inequality. With a loyal following that includes Hollywood A-listers, celebrity MUAs, designers, and authors, the brand has now established a global presence at 20 luxury retailers, wellness resorts, and platforms in a short span of time. In the near future, Khosa says she is coming up with a book that teaches women and men how to make their own skin remedies and makeup. “In my book, I have written about the history of kajal, a type of eyeliner that was mentioned in ancient texts, as well as how to make one’s own with ghee and other natural elements. I am also coming up with new formulations constantly just to try out. It will all be very exciting,” she reveals. 쐽

澳门精华 | 2020年 2月- 3月 | 95

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以中医养生智慧打造美味能量之旅 A delicious journey inspired by the philosophy of Chinese medicine 值此银冬，「澳门银河」推出秉承“ 养生补能量，胜券尽在握 ”美食哲学而重磅打造的一份养生能量补给菜单，于即日起至 2020 年 2 月 8 日为宾客献上结合健康饮食与中医养生之道的美味盛宴 Galaxy Macau has unveiled a menu under the motto “Fuel Up for Success” to help guests boost their energy levels 文/by EDWINA LIU

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季时节万物休养生息，根据中医理论，冬天最佳养生之道必从滋阴补阳开始，以补充身体所需能量。「澳门银河」餐饮团队邀请本地资深中医养生专家蒋永兴医师，伙拍星级名厨涂志祥大厨强强联手倾情打造营养满格的能量补给菜单。中医养生文化提倡通过食补食疗来补充能量，蒋永兴医师认为：“能量补给膳食能强身健体，事半功倍。许多中药药材可以入馔，烹制成美味佳肴，这一次我与涂大厨紧密合作，将药材与相应食材和烹调技巧糅合，打造出这份保健功效满满的能量补给菜单，让宾客在尽情享受美馔的滋补后，时刻保持精力充沛和健康活力。” 宾客可亲临福临门享用六或八道佳肴的套餐菜单，也可以在百乐潮州酒楼、巧面馆和鹿港小镇等餐厅单点菜单中的养生菜品。每道菜都由蔡医师精心设计，力臻完美。他表示，用膳后，食客会感觉到一股热流从背部往上流动，这意味着这些养生菜肴确实有助补充精力元气。能量补给养生菜单主推一道双枣洋参陈年花雕醉鸡，以黑红双枣、人参搭配黄酒醉鸡，补气活血。气（即隐形能量）是我们的生命动力，藏于人体不同部位。其数量固定不变，无法更替。当气或能量弱而人们无视 96 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2020 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

he season of winter is a time for slowing down and hibernation. According to Traditional Chinese Medical theory, the winter months are the perfect time to recharge your batteries and to start storing up the body’s vital energy reserves. The talented culinary team at Galaxy Macau invited the region’s famous Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) practitioner, Dr Cheong Weng Heng, to create a highly nutritious menu with master chef Simon Tho. Dietary supplementation is an important way to increase energy in TCM: “An energy boosting diet can do wonders to revitalise the body and mind,” said Dr. Cheong. “Many traditional Chinese medicinal ingredients can be used as components to prepare nourishing dishes. Chef Tho and I worked closely to combine medicinal ingredients with culinary techniques and infuse a variety of wellness benefits into the menu, enabling guests to feel energised and rejuvenated with those wholesome dishes.” Diners can choose from a 6- or 8-course set menu at Fook Lam Moon, or à la carte at Pak Loh Chiu Chow Restaurant, The Noodle Kitchen and Lugang Café. Each dish was perfectly designed by the doctor after much

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consideration. According to him, guests would feel the heat flow from the back, which means the dishes really help to recharge your bodies. This energy-boosting menu features chilled drunken chicken with American ginseng and chicken essence jelly, to boost circulation and “Qi”. “Qi” or energy is our life force and comes from several different sources. The inherited “Qi” is fixed in quantity and cannot be replaced. When it runs low and people ignore signs of tiredness, they start to draw on the inherited “Qi”. If this happens too often, it diminishes and people begin to feel exhausted. Another highlight is the stewed abalone and Japanese sea cucumber with snow chrysanthemum and tomato, which can “clear heat” in the liver and improve vision. Oysters are known to be beneficial to blood circulation and for the skin, and are also used here, in a dish of grilled Japanese pearl oyster with cumin, ginger and garlic. 98 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2020 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential MENU 身体的疲劳迹象时，人体便开始动用体内存藏的“气”。如果这种情况经常发生，身体就会耗气而让人感到精疲力尽。另一道出彩菜品是雪菊花番茄辽参煮鲍鱼，有清肝明目之功效。此外，生蚝补男女气血，令肌肤细嫩，茴香姜蒜烧日本珍珠蚝用烤蚝佐以姜蒜及茴香，健胃行气。主菜包括当归鲜淮山慢煮羊小腿，当归与山药搭配羊腿一起慢炖，由当归、生姜、羊肉三味药组成，助元阳，集温中散寒之功，通四肢关节。其中羊肉性温而不燥，升阳补肾、补血益气，尤其能疏通下肢气血。全新能量补给菜单还包括一款奢华甜品：姜汁燕窝撞奶。燕窝疏肝理胃，配上牛奶则可收秋冬季节滋润肌肤之效。 쐽

The main course includes slow-cooked lamb shank with Chinese yam and Angelica Sinensis, which brings out the golden trio of lamb, ginger and angelica that can invigorate “Yang” and prevent stiff joints in cold weather. Lamb is the best ingredient to eat in winter – it is warm in nature, it invigorates yang, especially kidney to benefit the “Qi” and warm blood circulation, particularly in the lower part of the body to improve circulation and stop. The menu also includes a luxurious dessert of milk and ginger custard with bird’s nest. Bird’s nest is good for stomach and liver, and together with milk, helps moisturising skin in the dry season. 쐽

澳门精华 | 2020年 2月- 3月 | 99

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柔情创美食 Ode to femininity 上环是香港的一个热闹地区，独特的精品店和餐厅林立于古雅的空间中。在荷李活道，路人都会留意到 Tate Dining Room＆Bar 的入口，因为其柔和的色彩散发出丝丝温柔优雅气息。Tate 餐厅于 2012 年开业，是一家高级餐厅，提供法中 Fusion 融合美食，并以所谓的 “ 可食用的故事 ”呈现，大玩烹饪表现主义 Sheung Wan is a buzzing district in Hong Kong where unique boutiques and restaurants present themselves in quaint spaces. On Hollywood Road, it is impossible to miss the entrance to Tate Dining Room & Bar, as its pastel colours exude an air of soft elegance. Established in 2012, Tate is a fine-dining restaurant serving an eclectic mix of French and Chinese cuisine presented in what they call “Edible Stories,” an exploration into culinary expressionism 文/by IRENE SAM

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家餐厅由一直秉承创新精神的厨师兼老板刘韵棋 (Vicky Lau)创立，最初在中上环苏豪区心脏地带开业，后于 2016 年搬到荷李活道。作为毫无争议的创新法中 Fusion 高级餐膳女厨神，刘韵棋继续发挥她以前担任平面设计师时练就的视觉艺术造诣。她餐厅随季节而变化的品尝菜单中充分体现出其与生俱来的创造力，她打造的每道菜都能唤起人们的情感，并通过有趣的口味口感搭配去激发食客的想象力。在设计领域担任创意总监多年后，刘大厨灵感突现，决定转而探索另一创意范畴 (她终生倾情美食 )，远赴曼谷蓝带国际学院磨炼厨艺，获得了蓝带厨艺大文凭。在久负盛名的厨艺学校毕业后，她毅然放弃设

ounded by chef and owner Vicky Lau, who has always been a creative spirit, the restaurant first opened in the heart of Soho, then moved to a new home on Hollywood Road in 2016. The undisputed queen of innovative French-Chinese fine dining in Hong Kong, Lau takes pride in her talent for visual artistry from her previous life as a graphic designer. Her innate creativity is evident in the seasonally evolving tasting menu, with each course designed to evoke emotions and stir the imagination with an intriguing play on flavours and textures. Having worked as a creative director in the realm of design for a number of years, she was 100 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2020 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

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澳门精华 | 2020年 2月- 3月 | 101

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计，正式展开烹饪事业，在香港最受好评的其中一家米其林星级餐厅开始工作。在获得了宝贵的第一手经验之后，她将自己的设计与美食天赋相结合，把愿景变为现实，创立 Tate Dining Room & Bar，邀请客人分享和体验她对厨艺的热情。她凭自己的烹饪技巧和艺术才华为餐厅在 2013 年摘得了第一颗米其林星，并在随后数年成功保持此星级地位。 2015 年，她被《世界 50 家最佳餐厅》评选为“亚洲最佳女厨师”。同年，她还被评选为凯歌香槟亚洲最佳女厨师。 Tate 餐厅才华横溢的团队不仅用最新鲜、最生动的食材制作菜肴，而且极度关注质量和每一个细节，提供有益健康的美味佳肴给宾客。在一个既吸引雅士又让冒险者喜爱的舒适而亲密的环境中，餐厅经理 François Ferrand 为我们介绍菜单，开启一段美食旅程。 Tate 在各种尺寸和形状的中式古餐瓷上呈现菜式，以有趣方式诠释烹饪表现主义来刺激嗅觉、味觉、触觉和视觉。但餐厅也运用当代瓷器来呈献这种真正的视觉盛宴。强调美食的诗意美学，每道菜都被视为对某一特定成分的一曲“颂歌”。前三道菜以响螺、墨鱼和鲷鱼为主角。一个美丽的海藻果冻，配以花椰菜泥和响

螺，上面覆盖着一层以可食用小花朵点缀的奥塞特拉鱼子酱。与产自日本滋贺县的松之司純米吟釀樂搭配，更巧妙地突显这道美食的鲜甜和花香元素。墨鱼面配中国酱和油封蛋黄，将墨鱼浓浓的鲜味与蛋黄的丰富质感完美融合。用黑豆荷兰酱调味的鲷鱼煎煮得很完美，鱼的香脆外皮闪耀着清新的橙色调。味蕾之旅继续，暖扇贝搭配陈年金橘格勒诺布尔风格酱汁，让人沉迷。这道菜证明了主厨刘韵棋善于将中国食材及法国烹饪技术巧妙融汇的精湛技艺。来自中国宁夏嘉地酒园的 “嘉地陈年 ”霞多丽红葡萄酒与这道作品构成完美搭配。美酒均衡的酸度挑逗起味觉，成熟芒果、黄桃和多汁杏子的香气充盈口腔，接下来，搭配红萝卜、腐乳酱和菠萝的小龙虾，色彩鲜艳夺目，与同样绚丽的手工彩印古董餐瓷成为绝配。 “这种生动而大胆热情的菜肴最好与卢瓦尔河谷出产的乐盼普伊 -富美干白葡萄酒搭配，因为这款酒的芒果和百香果香气与小龙虾及其酱汁极为匹配，”精于葡萄酒搭配的 François Ferrand 推介说。在主菜中， Iberico Pork Pluma 西班牙伊比利黑毛豬背肉配上烤肉汁和时令蔬菜，可最大程度地带出肉的原始风味，也增强了口感。Pluma 是取

inspired to tap into an extra dimension to her creative vision — her lifelong passion for food — and enrolled at Le Cordon Bleu to obtain her Grand Diplôme. Following her stint at the prestigious cooking school, chef Lau officially made her maverick move from design to embark on her culinary career and was working at one of the most acclaimed Michelin-starred restaurants in Hong Kong. After gaining invaluable first-hand experience, she brought her vision to life by combining the best of her instincts and talents in design and food into a space where guests are invited to share and experience her passion, at Tate Dining Room & Bar. Her culinary skill and artistic talent earned the restaurant’s first Michelin star in 2013, successfully maintaining its star in the years that followed. In 2015, she was named Asia’s Best Female Chef by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. During the same year, she was also named Veuve Clicquot Asia’s Best Female Chef. The talented team at Tate creates dishes with not only the freshest and the most vibrant ingredients possible, but also the utmost attention to quality and every intricate detail, serving 澳门精华 | 2020年 2月- 3月 | 103

Essential RESTAURANT

up wholesome yet tantalising dishes. In a comfortable and intimate atmosphere that appeals as much to the sophisticated as it does to the adventurous, restaurant manager François Ferrand starts the gastronomic journey by introducing the menu. A quirky take on culinary expressionism to stimulate the sense of smell, taste, touch and sight is characterised by presenting some dishes on antique Chinese porcelain of various sizes and shapes. But modern contemporary china is also incorporated into the visual feast. Highlighting the poetic essence of gastronomy, each course is considered to be an “ode” to a specific ingredient. Conch, cuttlefish, and Kinmedai mark the beginning of the first three courses. A beautiful seaweed jelly with cauliflower purée and conch is covered with a layer of Ossetra caviar decorated with tiny edible flowers. Paired with Matsunotsuka Junmai Ginjo Raku from Japan’s Shiga Prefecture, sweet and floral elements of the dish are delicately enhanced. Cuttlefish noodles with Chinoise Sauce and egg confit combine the vibrant umami flavour of the sea with the rich texture of egg yolk. The Kinmedai with black bean hollandaise sauce is cooked to perfection, with the fish’s crispy scales exuberating a fresh, orange hue. The indulgence continues with warm sea scallop with aged kumquat Grenobloise-style 104 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2020 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential RESTAURANT

自肩部和脊部中间的那块肉，因形状和大小与羽毛相似而称为 Pluma，羽毛状切肉在西班牙很普遍。伴普耳茶冰淇淋的栗子西米 soufflé 梳乎厘也是一款东西融合甜品。蓬松胀起的云状酥皮包裹柔软的雪梨造型，底部是栗子碎。深谙美食之道的食客可以将冰冻普洱茶冰淇淋放进梳乎厘里，那么这个冰冰的乳脂状球体便可慢慢融化成浓稠的液体，层叠于上部，让人惬意品尝。但是，“栗子颂 ”并非这顿晚餐的最后一道甜美珍味。为了在晚餐结束时给顾客一个惊喜，刘大厨以迷你甜点车来宠溺食客：一口入口的甜点以车舱状盛盒呈现上桌。里面盛有枣参巧克力，金鱼和扇状棒棒糖。在不断变化和竞争激烈的美食世界中，刘韵棋以女厨师之姿脱颖而出，因为显而易见，她的所有作品都表达出女性审美情趣。从玫瑰色灯泡到粉红色沙发，再到宽敞的卫生间，餐厅内的每个细节都在在体现出她极致优雅地享受生活的的种种方式。餐厅里，羽毛随意地放在 Dom Pérignon 香槟旁，流露出富有品味的奢华气息。宾客甚至被要求把手机放在餐桌下的指定空间内，以便与挚爱亲朋共度珍贵时光。确实，到 Tate Dining Room＆Bar 用膳，就是探索、体验刘韵棋其人的生活方式。 쐽

sauce exemplifying chef Lau’s savoir-faire in merging Chinese ingredients with French culinary know-how. Jade Vineyard’s “Jade Vintage,” a chardonnay from Ningxia, China, is perfectly paired with this creation. Aromas of ripe mango, yellow peaches and juicy apricots fill the mouth as the liquid seduces the palate with a balanced acidity. Next up, the langoustine with carrot, red bean curd sauce and pineapple lends its bright colour to hand-printed antique porcelain with a matching tint.

“This vivid and bold dish is best enjoyed with the Lebrun Pouilly-Fume Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley, as its mango and passion fruit notes pair well with the langoustine and its sauce,” says François Ferrand, who is an expert on wine pairing. For the main course, the Iberico pork pluma with jus and seasonal vegetables on the side offers the meat’s original taste and textures at their best. The shoulder flank steaks are nicknamed pluma in Spain, as the plume-shaped cut is popular in the country. Chestnut and Sago soufflé with Pu-erh ice cream is again a melange of east and west. Soft, pearl-like structures are embedded into a fluffy, cloud-like sensation. Laying low at the bottom are intricately diced chestnuts. Discerning diners are encouraged to put the cold Pu-erh ice cream into the soufflé, so the icy and creamy spheroid can slowly melt into a thick liquid that layers on top. But “Ode to chestnut” is not the ultimate finale of the meal. To surprise her diners at the very end of dinner, chef Lau spoils them with a mignardises trolley, where the bite-sized desserts are presented in a cabinet-like structure. Inside, chocolates are filled with date and ginseng, and lollipops are shaped into goldfish and fans. In the ever-changing and highly competitive world of gastronomy, being a female chef makes Lau stand out, as a play on femininity is evidently displayed in all her creations. Every little detail in the interior, from the rosy light bulbs to the blush-toned sofas and spacious bathroom, expresses her approach to enjoying life with utmost elegance. In a dining room where feathers are placed in a laissez-faire manner next to bottles of Dom Pérignon champagne, extravagance is expressed tastefully. Guests are even challenged to put their phones aside, in designated spaces available under the tables, to cherish moments with their loved ones. Indeed, a visit to Tate Dining Room & Bar is an exploration into Vicky Lau’s way of living. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2020年 2月- 3月 | 105

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美獅美高梅在可持续发展路上又创新成就美狮美高梅最近荣获 ISO14001：2015 国际环境管理系统认证，进一步印证了该公司为实现环保与可持续发展作出的巨大努力。美高梅中国控股有限公司首席执行官及执行董事简博贤先生表示：“这是一项非凡成就，更凝聚了我们团队的坚定决心，以及为创造一个更美好环境而付出的努力与沟通。一直以来，美高梅不断在日常营运的各个方面融入环保措施，致力推动区内旅行及旅游业的可持续发展。该认证将帮助我们衡量及检查我们在环境可持续性领域取得的绩效，我们有责任在每日工作点滴中，让业务运营变得更环保。” ISO 14001:2015 是一个国际认证标准，该标准为企业或机构提供一个设计框架，以便设立一个有效的环境管理系统，从而改进企业环境绩效。企业需实施符合并遵循 ISO 标准的政策、流程及系统，方可获得有关认证。

MGM COTAI achieves another new milestone in sustainability journey MGM COTAI recently obtained the ISO14001:2015 Environmental Management System Certification, which truly recognizes the Company’s great endeavors in achieving environmental sustainability. Mr. Grant Bowie, Chief Executive Officer and Executive Director of MGM China Holdings Limited, said, “This significant achievement is definitely a culmination of our team work, communication and fierce desire to better our environment. MGM has been constantly embedding ecological implementations into all aspects of its daily operations, striving towards a more sustainable travel and tourism industry in the region. While the certification is going to help us measure and monitor our environmental sustainability performance, we owe it to ourselves to make our business greener every day.” ISO 14001:2015 is a globally recognized standard that maps out a framework a company or organization can follow to set up an effective environmental management system, hence the enhancement of corporate environmental performance. The certification is gained through implementing policies, procedures and systems that follow and meet ISO standards.

永利员工获得管理学位本年度，永利为 44 名员工提供支持，赞助其入读澳门大学博彩研究所举办的 “赌场管理文凭 ” 或 “博彩管理高级文凭 ”一年期课程，人数较往年大幅增加。本批毕业学员中，六名永利同事凭藉其优异成绩获授 “优秀毕业生”和“卓越毕业生”荣誉。对于学校授予的荣誉和认可，学员们备受鼓舞，同时也认为这些课程十分实用，能够帮助他们更深入地理解有关理论，学习实际营运并积累经验，从而具备更多专业知识，能够更游刃有余地从事博彩行业工作。

Wynn Team Members Achieve Management Diplomas This year, Wynn encouraged and sponsored 44 team members to enroll in either the one-year ‘Diploma in Casino Management’ or ‘Advanced Diploma in Gaming Management’ courses, organized by the Institute for the Study of Commercial Gaming (ISCG) at the University of Macau (UM). This marked a record number of participants compared with previous years. Among all of the graduates, six team members from Wynn were recognized as either 'Outstanding Graduates' or 'Distinction Graduates' based on their outstanding results. Students were energized by the acknowledgement of their efforts, and they felt that the courses were useful for them to be better-equipped for working in the industry by understanding the theory, learning about actual operations and accumulating further experience.

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Essential NEWS

银娱提倡构建互相尊重的工作环境，促进家庭和谐银河娱乐集团与妇女联合总会（妇联）携手于澳门悦榕庄举办讲座，为近 200 名团队成员解构如何有效地在职场构建互相尊重的工作环境，从心理及法律范畴上，剖析如何预防职场歧视及避免骚扰；并在后勤区宣传家庭和谐妙法，提升预防家暴意识。为推动家庭和谐，银娱特别支持妇联于后勤区设置展板，提升团队成员对家暴及个人心理健康的关注，以及营造一个家庭友善的工作环境。

GEG promotes respectful and family-friendly workplace Galaxy Entertainment Group (GEG) teams up with The Women's General Association of Macau (the Association) held a workshop for nearly 200 team members at Banyan Tree Macau. The workshop aimed to provide information on creating a respectful workplace and preventing discrimination and harassment, focusing on psychological and legal perspectives. In addition, the Association provided information in the Heart-of-House area of Galaxy Macau™ about preventing domestic violence. GEG also invited the Association to advocate for the prevention of domestic violence by setting up display boards in the Heart-ofHouse area. The activity aimed to raise team members’ awareness of domestic violence and mental health issues and maintaining a family-friendly workplace.

新濠博亚员工参观展览，庆祝国庆及澳门回归新濠博亚组织同事前往澳门综艺馆参观 “新中国 70 年民间记忆展 ”。该展览获澳门特别行政区中联办协调部以及澳区全国政协委员联谊会支持，由澳门日报与澳门展贸协会合办，四川省建川博物馆与澳门中华民族团结促进会协办。展览通过 600 多张历史图片、 300 多件来自民间的展品，结合纪录片和多媒体展示，让观众通过民间记忆，探索中华人民共和国从 1949 年至 2019 年的发展历程，并了解祖国的繁荣发展，而这些历史也是澳门与内地共同取得发展成就的过程。

Melco employees visit exhibition to celebrate China-Macau double anniversary Melco Resorts & Entertainment (Melco) organized a visit for colleagues to an exhibition on New China – 70 Years of the People’s Memories. Held at the Macau Forum, the exhibition is supported by the Coordination Department of the Liaison Office of the Central People's Government in the Macao Special Administrative Region and the Macao Chinese People’s Political Consultative Conference (CPPCC) Standing Committee, and co-organized by Macau Daily News and the Macau Fair & Trade Association. The objective is for visitors to explore the developmental history of the People’s Republic of China (PRC) between 1949 to 2019 through memories of its people. Showcasing more than 600 photos and 300 exhibits, as well as documentaries and multimedia displays, visitors are encouraged to learn about the growth of the PRC’s strength and prosperity, which embody the successful development of Macau and the Motherland.

澳门精华 | 2020年 2月- 3月 | 107

Essential JEWELLERY

奢华精髓 Essential luxuries “精华”指南，澳门顶级购物商场奢靡品牌一网打尽 The Essential guide to luxury brands at Macau’s leading shopping malls

威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian Estrada da Baía de N. Senhora da Esperanca, S/N, Taipa, Macau

永利澳门名店街 Wynn Esplanade

永利澳门万利酒店 Esplanade at Encore Rua Cidade de Sintra, NAPE, Macau

新濠天地 The City of Dreams

The Cotai Strip, Estrada da Baia de N. Senhora da Esperanca, S/N, Taipa, Macau

Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau

金丽华酒店 Grand Lapa Hotel

澳门银河 Galaxy Macau

Rua Cidade de Sintra, NAPE, Macau

四季‧名店 Shoppes at Four Seasons The Cotai Strip, Estrada da Baía de N. Senhora da Esperanca, S/N, Taipa, Macau

Abiste Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Alfred Dunhill 艾尔弗雷德·登喜路 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 Agnes b. 阿尼亚斯贝 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Aquascutum 雅格狮丹 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Armani Collezioni 阿玛尼黑标 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Audemars Piguet 爱彼表 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

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四季酒店DFS环球免税店 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons

Cotai, Macau

金沙城中心 Sands Cotai Central Estrada da Baia de N. Senhora da Esperanca, S/N, Taipa, Macau

Bally 巴利 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 Bang & Olufsen 奢华视听品牌 B&O One Central 一号广场 Bottega Veneta 宝缇嘉 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心

956-1110 Avenida da Amizade, Macau

一号广场 One Central Avenida de Sagres and Avenida do Dr. Sun Yat Sen, Lot B of Block B of Zone B Nape, Macau

Breguet 宝玑 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Brooks Brothers 布克兄弟 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Burberry 巴宝莉 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地

Brioni 布莱奥尼 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Bulgari 宝格丽 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Boucheron 宝诗龙 One Central 一号广场

Canali 康纳利 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Essential RETAIL

Carl F. Bucherer 宝齐莱 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Cartier 卡地亚 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Esplanade at Encore 永利澳门万利酒店

Damiani 达米阿尼 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 Davidoﬀ 大卫杜夫 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 David Yurman 大卫 ·雅曼 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Céline 赛琳 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场

De Beers 戴比尔斯 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店

Cerruti 1881 切瑞蒂 1881 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Diamond SA 南非钻石 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Chanel 香奈儿 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Diane Von Furstenberg 黛安·冯芙丝汀宝 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Chaumet 尚美 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Chloe 蔻依 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Christian Dior 克里斯汀·迪奥 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Chopard 萧邦 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地 Cigar Emporium 雪茄专门店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心 CK Calvin Klein 卡尔文·克莱恩 One Central 一号广场 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Coach 蔻驰 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地 Cole Haan 歌涵 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

DKNY 唐娜·凯伦纽约 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心 Dolce&Gabbana 杜嘉班纳 One Central 一号广场 Emporio Armani 安普里奥 ·阿玛尼 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地 Ermenegildo Zegna 杰尼亚 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Europe Watch Company 欧洲坊 One Central 一号广场

Franck Muller 法蘭穆勒 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Gieves & Hawkes 君皇仕 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Giorgio Armani 乔治·阿玛尼 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Giuseppe Zanotti 朱塞佩· 萨诺第 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Givenchy 纪梵希 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Glashütte Original 格拉苏蒂 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 GoldVish S.A. Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Gucci 古琦 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心 Hermès 爱马仕 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Hublot 宇舶表 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地

Fabio Caviglia 法比奥 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场

Hugo Boss 胡戈· 波士 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 One Central 一号广场 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Fendi 芬迪 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场

IWC 万国表 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河

Ferrari 法拉利 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Jaeger-LeCoultre 积家 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Francesco Biasia Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

澳门精华 | 2020年 2月- 3月 | 109

Essential JEWELLERY Shanghai Tang 上海滩 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Samsonite Black Label 新秀丽黑标 One Central 一号广场 Shiatzy Chen 夏姿·陈 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 S.T. Dupont 法国都彭 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 St. John 圣约翰 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Smalto by Paris Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Jaquet Droz 雅克 ·德罗 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

Miu Miu 缪缪 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Juicy Couture 橘滋 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Montblanc 万宝龙 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场

Kate Spade 凯特· 丝蓓 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Kenzo 高田贤三 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Lancel 兰姿 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 La Perla Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Leonard 李奥纳德 One Central 一号广场 Links of London Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Loro Piana 罗洛·皮雅纳 One Central 一号广场 Louis Vuitton 路易·威登 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Loewe 罗威 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 Luk Fook 六福珠宝 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心 Marc by Marc Jacobs 马克·雅可布之马克 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Marni 玛尼 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Max Mara 麦丝玛拉 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Maubossin 梦宝星 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Mikimoto 御木本珠宝 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Missoni 米索尼 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

110 | FEBRUARY - MARCH 2020 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Oﬃcine Panerai 沛纳海 One Central 一号广场 Omega 欧米茄 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心 Macau Landmark 澳门置地广场酒店 Macau Square 澳门广场 Pal Zileri 伯爵莱利 One Central 一号广场 Piaget 伯爵 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Esplanade at Encore 永利澳门万利酒店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河

Stefano Ricci 史蒂芬劳·尼治 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Swarovski 施华洛世奇水晶 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Tag Heuer 豪雅 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Thomas Sabo 汤武士世宝 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Tiﬀany & Co. 蒂芙尼 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Tod’s 托德斯 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 Tonino Lamborghini 兰博基尼 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

Prada 普拉达 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Tourneau 唐龙 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

Rado 雷达 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 The City of Dreams 新濠天地

Tudor 帝舵表 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Ralph Lauren 拉夫·劳伦 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地

Vacheron Constatin 江诗丹顿 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店

Rich Jade 富御珠宝 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Richard Mille 瑞驰·迈迪 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Rimowa 日墨瓦 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Roberto Cavalli Class and Cesare Paciotti Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Roger Dubuis 罗杰杜彼 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Rolex 劳力士 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Salvatore Ferragamo 萨尔瓦托勒·菲拉格慕 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地

Van Cleef & Arpels 梵克雅宝 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Versace 范思哲 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Versace Collection 范思哲高级成衣 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 Vertu 沃尔图 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Vivienne Westwood 薇薇恩·韦斯特伍德 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Yves Saint Laurent 伊夫圣罗兰 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Valentino 华伦天奴 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

collection plume de paon

HONG KONG

PACIFIC PLACE MACAU

IFC

ONE CENTRAL

HARBOUR CITY