Essential Macau | August - September 2019 by ESSENTIAL MACAU

2019年 8-9月第 51期 No. 51 August - September 2019

奢侈时装品牌 Luxury fashion brands 寻求精彩多元 Time to diversify

下午茶 Afternoon Tea 澳门叹茶最佳地点 The best spots in Macau

宝诗龙首席执行官 Boucheron CEO

ISSN:2221-1438

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艺术热潮

WAVES OF ART

夏季的热浪袭来，人们宁愿整天呆在家里叹空调，也不愿出门接受暑热的煎熬。然而今个夏季，澳门为那些想在清凉舒适环境中体验文化活动的人提供很多好去处在政府的大力支持下，大型国际综合性文化艺术盛会——“艺文荟澳”（Art Macao）于六月至十月开遍澳门，为期五个月。多家酒店及综合度假村举办一系列大型展览，让艺术爱好者可以在无比舒适的展场感受艺术芬芳。重要大展包括，在澳門藝術博物館举行的 “Art Macao國際藝術大展 ”，在澳门银河综合渡假城举行的《影后王妃：嘉丽丝姬莉的艺术形象》展览，美狮美高梅举办的《华源》，新濠天地的《不期而遇》及其他多个艺术大展。作为一直支持澳门发展文化旅游的重要推手，美高梅与威尼斯艺术家Joana Vasconcelos展开了第二次重要合作。本期杂志中，《精华》记者与该葡萄牙艺术家和美高梅艺术与文化副总裁 Cristina Kuok对谈，透视美高梅集团如何促进澳门与世界其他国家和地区的文化交流。 “艺文荟澳 ”（Art Macao）包含多个不同艺术形式、丰富多样的艺术展，可观赏，还可以品尝。本期《精华》还精选介绍多位参展艺术家，以及推介多款美味的下午茶，供您享用可食用的艺术品。还有，位于新濠天地的澳门米其林三星粤菜餐厅誉珑轩的行政主厨将与读者分享他烹饪传统广府美食的心得。此外，我们也为时尚达人收录了最新的时尚消息和深度访谈。希望您喜欢我们的最新一期杂志，并祝您有个精彩、快乐的澳门假期！

When the summer heat waves strike, everyone would rather stay indoors all day under the air-conditioner than go out in the heat. And Macau has plenty to offer to those looking for culture but who still want to stay cool Thanks for the supporting from government, the town is holding a five-month mega art event, Art Macau. Art lovers can enjoy an array of large-scale exhibitions organised by several hotels and integrated resorts in comfortable venues. Highlights include Art Macao: International Art Exhibition at the Macao Museum of Art, and the exhibition Grace Kelly: From Hollywood to Monaco – Artists’ Tributes at Galaxy Macau, Huayuan at MGM Macau, Unexpected Encounters at City of Dreams Macau and more. As a leader who always supporting Macau to develop cultural tourism, MGM present their second major collaboration with artist Joana Vasconcelos in Venice. In this issue, Essential spoke with the Portuguese artist and Cristina Kuok, Vice-president of Art and Culture at MGM to know more about how the group implements cultural exchanges between Macau and the rest of the world. The forms of art on display are many and varied. You can not only see it but also taste it. In this issue we also select an array of artist and delicious afternoon tea options for you to enjoy the eatable art. Meanwhile, the executive chef of Cantonese restaurant Jade Dragon, with three Michelin stars, shares his experience of cooking this traditional cuisine. Moreover, for fashionistas, we also collect the latest fashion news and in-depth interviews. We hope you enjoy our latest issue and your vacation in Macau!

专题特写 FEATURES 14

展览 Exhibition “宝格丽，传承与梦想”展览，回顾意国著名珠宝世家的荣耀史

"BVLGARI, LA STORIA, IL SOGNO" REVEALS THE HISTORY OF THE ITALIAN HOUSE

专访 Interview 《精华》杂志与宝诗龙首席执行官Hélène Poulit- Duquesne对谈

ESSENTIAL SPEAKS TO HÉLÈNE POULIT-DUQUESNE, CEO OF BOUCHERON

珠宝 Jewellery Piaget伯爵推出最新高级珠宝系列Golden Oasis

PIAGET PRESENTS GOLDEN OASIS, ITS LATEST COLLECTION OF FINE JEWELLERY

摄影 Photography 伦敦(V&A)维多利亚和阿尔伯特博物馆举办时尚摄影大师 Tim Walker大展

THE VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM PRESENTS A GRAND TIM WALKER

EXHIBITION OF

艺术 Art 访谈葡萄牙著名艺术家琼安娜

INTERVIEW WITH THE PORTUGUESE ARTIST JOANA VASCONCELOS

名车 Car 法拉利跑车SF90 Stradale全新登场

THE NEW SF90 STRADALE BY FERRARI

书籍 Books 奢侈文化品牌Assouline

ASSOULINE, THE LUXURY BRAND OF CULTURE

设计 Design

回顾包豪斯的百年历史

100 YEARS OF BAUHAUS

时装 Fashion 几何畅想曲

GRAPHIC STATEMENT

时尚 Trends 高定的缤纷世界

THE UNIVERSE OF HAUTE COUTURE

时尚坊 Bazaar 梦寐以求的爱物

OBJECTS OF DESIRE

奢侈界 Luxury 奢侈品牌寻求多元发展

THE DIVERSIFICATION OF LUXURY BRANDS

住宿 Accommodation 家外之家，深圳G公寓

RESIDENCE G SHENZHEN, JUST LIKE HOME

茶点 Tea 澳门最佳下午茶精选

MACAU'S BEST AFTERNOON TEAS

100

名厨 Chef 米其林三星粤菜餐厅誉珑轩行政总厨欧阳文彦

KELVIN AU YEUNG, THE CHEF BEHIND THE DRAGON

THREE-MICHELIN-STARRED JADE

6 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

创办人 Founding partners Bruce Hawker - bruce.h@essentialmacau.com Paulo A. Azevedo - pazevedo@essentialmacau.com 总监及出版人 Director and publisher Paulo A. Azevedo - pazevedo@essentialmacau.com 国际编辑 International editor Fernando Caetano - fcaetano@essentialmacau.com 编辑助理 Editorial Coordinator Cátia Matos - catia.matos@open-media.net 編輯 Editor Edwina Liu - edwina.liu@projectasiacorp.com T恤衫 T-shirt: 蒙克莱 Moncler 半截裙 Skirt: Off-white 高跟鞋 Shoes: 芬迪 Fendi 项链 Necklace: COS 裤袜 Stockings: 制作团队私伙 production’s own

摄影及助理 PHOTOGRAPHY: PEDRO FERREIRA ASSISTED BY ANA VIEGAS AND MATILDE PEREIRA 模特 MODEL: SVETA KAFAFOVA (L’AGENCE)

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集团成员公司及办事处 Group companies and offices 澳门 Macau - Global Asia Media Ltd. 澳门马揸度博士大马路679号, 南方工业大厦第三座9楼Ｈ座 Block C, Floor 9H - Edif. Ind. Nam Fong Nº 679 Av. Dr. Francisco Vieira Machado Macau SAR +853 2833 1258 电话：(phone) +853 2833 1487 传真：(fax) Portugal - Open Media S.A. Av. da Liberdade, nº69 2º B. - 1250-140 Lisboa UK - Open Media Ltd. Open Media Ltd. 40 Craven Street Charing Cross London WC2N 5NG 《澳门精华》欢迎投稿及惠赐广告，但稿件之选刊须以本刊编辑方针为准。若希望有关材料获退还，需于投寄时附上回邮信封。《澳门精华》对广告内容概不负责。 Essential Macau welcomes all contributions but under its editorial guidelines. Materials must be accompanied by self-addressed stamped envelopes if they are to be returned. Essential Macau assumes no responsibility for content of advertisements.

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订阅优惠 Subscription 《澳门精华》为奢华时尚双月刊，现读者可以下列优惠价格订阅共6期：香港澳门地区：港币210元；亚洲地区：25美元(空邮)；世界其他国家和地区：30美元 (空邮)。 To receive a copy of this bi-monthly luxury lifestyle magazine, subscribe to Essential Macau for just HKD 210 for Hong Kong and Macau (6 issues), US$ 25 for Asia (by airmail), and US$ 30 for the rest of the world (by airmail). 所有材料 2011 Global Asia Media Ltd版权所有 All materials COPYRIGHT 2011 Global Asia Media Ltd (ISSN): 2221-1438 严禁部分或全部复制本刊内容。 Reproduction in part or in full is strictly prohibited.

8 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

特约撰稿人 Contributing writers Álvaro Tavares Ramos, Catarina Vasques Rito, Cátia Matos, César Brigante, Edwina Liu, Guilherme Marques, Mariana Correia de Barros 特约摄影师 Contributing photographers Pedro Ferreira 中文翻译及校对 Chinese language translator/proofreader PROMPT Editorial Services 翻译：韩珺，吴炜声校译：黎庄琳，徐彩燕澳门发行 Distribution in Macau Michael Rimando - mrimando@essentialmacau.com

《澳门精华》由Global Asia Media Ltd出版， Global Asia Media Ltd为 Essential Macau is published by Global Asia Media Ltd, a company owned by:

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澳门的夏日艺术盛会 Artistic summer party in Macau 大型国际综合性文化艺术盛会 —— “ 艺文荟澳 ”（Art Macao）于五月至十月开遍澳门全城。为期六个月的文化艺术盛事，包括多个大型展览、艺术装置、音乐演出、舞蹈及剧场表演，让濠江洋溢文化、娱乐及欢乐气息 ‘Art Macao’ – a mega six-month international arts and cultural event happening all over the city from May to October – features exhibitions, art installations, music shows, dance, and theatrical performances flooding the city with culture, entertainment and joy

大

型艺术展览由多个旅游度假村及酒店联合筹办，全部免费参观，为您带来完美的夏日澳门之旅程。以下我们向您介绍八到九月期间在澳门各大酒店举行的艺术活动。

华源

墨是中国五千年历史和文化的源流，从书法到绘画，华夏艺术无一不从水墨中洐生。透过展示当代艺术家的作品，美狮美高梅举办的《华源》展现了水墨艺术发展的创新格局。展出作品包括马文的大型多媒体装置艺 10 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

术《蜕变：无穷尽》以及受昆曲启发而创作演绎的水墨装置独幕歌剧《惊园》。在美狮美高梅 –视博广场，马文将大自然、雕塑和虚拟影像融合成三重水墨幻境的奇幻花园。观众可以不同视点欣赏作品，感受独一无二的视觉震撼。《惊园》乃获美国斯波雷多艺术节、林肯中心艺术节、新加坡国际艺术节、和高雄卫武营国家艺术文化中心的邀请而联合制作，于 600 年历史的昆曲传统与西方歌剧的音乐基础上，注入无限诗意。透过互动技术，偌大壮丽的花园和一系列虚拟角

arge-scale art exhibitions organised in collaboration with hotels and integrated resorts. Admission is free for all activities, which is perfect for summer trip. Here we present a few art events taking place in August and September.

HUA YUAN Ink has played a pivotal role in Chinese history and culture, and it remains as relevant today as it did over 5,000 years ago.

Essential EXHIBITION

色与主角互动，打造出一个引人陶醉的故事。这部迷人的装置歌剧将在亚洲首个动感剧院——美高梅剧院上演。在这里，观众可以透过 2800 万像素的屏幕，享受革命性技术带来的前所未有的感官体验。地址：美狮美高梅时间：《惊园》 8 月 29 日下午 7 点，8 月 31 日下午 8 点《蜕变：无穷尽》 6 月 7 日至 9 月 3 日，全天开放

中国传统风尚漆画展

澳博与艺术家合作在多个地点举办共 7 场精彩的艺术展览 — — “艺 ·赏 ·承传 ”，全方位歌颂艺术历史传承。八月期间，宾客可以在澳门新葡京举办的《中国传统风尚漆画展》上欣赏八件中国漆画。

MGM Cotai has revealed new developments in the art of ink painting through the presentation of works by contemporary artists, including the large-scale multimedia installation A Metamorphosis: No End To End by Jennifer Wen Ma and Paradise Interrupted, another ink rendition reinterpreted as installation inspired by a Kun Opera in one act at MGM Cotai. Showcasing at Spectacle, Jennifer Wen Ma presents a spectacular garden through synchronised natural, sculptural, and virtual textures. Guests will definitely immerse themselves in the vibrant spring scene in the artist’s wonderland. Paradise Interrupted is co-produced with the Spoleto Festival USA, Lincoln Center Festival, Singapore International Festival of Arts and National Kaohsiung Center for the Arts. The performance weaves the myths of the

VISIONS OF CHINESE TRADITION ART • Appreciation • Legacy is a celebration of cultural heritage by SJM in collaboration with fellow artists to create a total of seven exceptional and multidimensional exhibitions in various locations. During August, at Grand Lisboa, guests can witness eight Chinese lacquer painting at the Visions of Chinese Tradition exhibition. Chinese lacquer painting is derived from the longstanding artistic tradition, which is an important art form in the country’s history. Today, Jiangxi province still produces modern lacquer art products. The lacquer printings from Jiangxi are recognisable by the traditional techniques employed to present innovative and expressive ideas, and have garnered acclaim for their varied styles and vivid colours. This exhibition showcases a series of delicate works by modern lacquer masters who use crushed eggshells to create natural cracks in the China-themed paintings. Location: Grand Lisboa Time: Between August 1 and October 31

ALL THAT’S GOLD DOES GLITTER - AN EXHIBITION OF GLAMOROUS CERAMICS Curated by famous ceramic artist Caroline Chen, All That’s Gold Does Glitter – An Exhibition of Glamorous Ceramics showcases over 90 masterpieces by 27 artists from all over the world at Sands China properties, including The Venetian Macao, The Parisian Macao, Sands Macao and Four Seasons Hotel Macao as well as the Macao Museum of Art. This exhibition is the largest and greatest international ceramic art exhibition in the Greater Bay area in 2019.

中国漆画植根于悠久的漆文化传统，在中国艺术史上具有重要地位。江西自古以来是中国漆艺重镇，曾出土大量精美的漆器，其中漆画是现代漆艺的代表之一，以多种装饰技艺如嵌、罩、刻、磨等为基础，并融入突破性的创新意念，以风格多样、色彩绚丽而广受赞誉。此展览将展出一系列现代漆画大师以中国风貌为题材的作品，他们运用压碎的鸡蛋壳在漆画上造出自然裂纹，相当精细。地址：澳门新葡京时间：8 月 1 日－10 月 31 日

流金岁月——当代陶瓷艺术展

《流金岁月——当代陶瓷艺术展》由世界级陶瓷艺术大师兼策展人郑祎女士策划，展出来自全球各地 27 位顶尖陶瓷艺术家的 90

Garden of Eden and Peony Pavilion, with a mesmerising composition that merges a 600year-old Kun Opera with contemporary Western opera. The creative use of interactive technology enables a host of digital characters to interact with the heroine within a magical garden to create an enchanting story. This arresting installation opera will be showcased at MGM Theatre, Asia’s first dynamic theatre. Here, guests can witness multisensory experiences unlike anything before with revolutionary technology on a 28-million-pixel screen.

Location: The Venetian Macao, The Parisian Macao, Sands Macao and Four Seasons Hotel Macao Time: From June 8 to October 9

Location: MGM Cotai Time: Paradise Interrupted August 29 at 7pm and August 31 at 8pm A Metamorphosis: No End To End June 7 to September 3, open all day everyday 澳门精华 | 2019年 8月- 9月 | 11

Essential EXHIBITION

余件高水平佳作，于澳门威尼斯人、澳门巴黎人、澳门四季酒店、澳门金沙以及澳门艺术博物馆展出。该展览是 2019 年大湾区规模最大、最具意义的国际陶瓷艺术展。地址：澳门威尼斯人、澳门巴黎人、澳门金沙及澳门四季酒店时间：6 月 8 日－10 月 9 日

影后王妃：嘉丽丝姬莉的艺术形象

银河娱乐集团携手摩纳哥格里马尔迪会议中心共同主办《影后王妃：嘉丽丝姬莉的艺术形象》展览，介绍嘉丽丝姬莉（19291982 年）从奥斯卡影后到成为摩纳哥王妃的传奇故事。展览包括嘉丽丝姬莉不同时期的图像影片、其奥斯卡奖座、华丽婚纱、以她命名的爱马仕 Kelly 手袋、名店珠宝，以及波普艺术大师安迪·沃霍尔（Andy Warhol）设计的一幅珍稀的肖像版画。地址：「澳门银河™」综合渡假城水晶大堂时间： 5 月 16 日－8 月 28 日，星期日至四 10:00-22:00，星期五、六 10:00-24:00

永利艺赏－人间乐园

为积极支持“艺文荟澳”，永利澳门有限公司正在永利澳门和永利皇宫举行永利艺赏－人间乐园艺术展览，后者是主要展览地点。届时，一系列惊世艺术瑰宝将首次现身澳门，它们出自多位举世瞩目的艺术家之手，其中包括赫伯 ·亚柏特（Herb Alpert）、罗拔 ·印第安纳（ Robert Indiana）、 MAD 建筑事务所（MAD Architects）、拉菲克 ·安纳度（Refik Anadol）、珍妮弗 ·施丹琴（Jennifer Steinkamp）、山姆·弗朗西斯（Sam Francis）和艾杜雅多·特雷索迪（Edoardo Tresoldi）等。展览将透过一系列画作、装置及数码科技等多种形式的艺术手法，为艺术爱好者开启一个流光四溢的奇妙世界。其中一件引人瞩目的展品是多媒体艺术家拉菲克·安纳度（Refik Anadol）创作的《融化 12 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

GRACE KELLY: FROM HOLLYWOOD TO MONACO ARTISTS’ TRIBUTES The Galaxy Entertainment Group teams up with the Monaco’s Grimaldi Forum to present Grace Kelly: From Hollywood to Monaco – Artists’ Tributes. Hosted by Galaxy Macau, the exhibition allows guests to follow the legendary story of the Oscar-winning actress Grace Kelly (1929-1982) who became the princess of Monaco. The display showcases photographs and moving images of the performer, her Academy Award, wedding gown, the eponymous Kelly bag by Hermès, designer jewellery, and a rare portrait print by Andy Warhol. Location: Crystal Lobby, Galaxy Macau Integrated Resort Time: Between May 16 and August 28, Sundays to Thursdays from 10am to 10pm and Fridays to Saturdays from 10am to 12pm.

WYNN-GARDEN OF EARTHLY DELIGHTS In support of Art Macao, the Wynn Macau Limited is holding the Garden of Earthly Delights exhibition at Wynn Macau and Wynn Palace Cotai, which is the main venue. Displaying for the first time in Macau, Wynn is proud to present the works of several artists such as Herb Alpert, Robert Indiana, MAD Architects, Refik Anadol, Jennifer Steinkamp, Sam Francis and Edoardo Tresoldi. Art fans will enjoy a journey of contemporary art into a world of innovation and creativity through various media forms such as paintings, installations and digital art pieces. One of the highlights is Melting Memories, created by media artist Refik Anadol. This artwork offers new insights into the representational possibilities that emerge from the intersection between advanced technology and contemporary art.

Essential EXHIBITION

的记忆》（Melting Memories）。作品带给我们全新视野，让我们看到先进技术与当代艺术的交汇，为视觉艺术再现带来了新的可能性。展于永利澳门的多色铝雕塑《美国之爱》（The American Love）出自波普艺术家罗拔 ·印第安纳（Robert Indiana）之手，作为爱的图腾傲立自足。地址：永利皇宫，永利澳门时间：6 月 9 日－10 月 6 日

不期而遇

新濠博亚娱乐有限公司为游客带来《不期而遇》，展示知名当代艺术家的作品，包括新濠天地收藏的众多当代名家的艺术作品，巨型雕塑 Good Intentions，出自著名艺术家 KAWS 之手；法国艺术大师 Charles Pétillon 设计的 200 Litofairhour；奥托尼耶（Jean-Michel

家加布里埃尔·万博（Gabrielle Wambaugh）的作品，体现空间与艺术的交融结合。加布里埃尔 ·万博多进行陶瓷和雕塑创作，其作品一直在表达空间与空隙之间的关系，透过隐藏来揭露真相，透过雕塑寻找不受形式束缚的空间。地址：澳门濠璟酒店时间：6 月 8 日－10 月 15 日除了在度假村的展览外，澳门乐团还将为 “艺文荟澳 ”献上多场精彩的音乐会。8 月 31 日，澳门乐团将携手享誉国际乐坛的大提琴演奏家阿尔班‧杰哈特（Alban Gerhardt），为观众献上萧斯塔科维奇（Dmitri Shostakovich）《第一大提琴协奏曲》，以大提琴和乐队的对峙隐喻个人与社会的抗争。音乐会还将表演德沃夏克（Antonín Dvořák）的《狂欢节》

At Wynn Macau, pop artist Robert Indiana brings a polychrome aluminium sculpture entitled The American Love, which stands on its own as a totem of latency. Location: Wynn Palace, Wynn Macau Time: From June 9 to October 6

UNEXPECTED ENCOUNTERS Melco Resorts & Entertainment Limited bring Unexpected Encounters, featuring a number of masterpieces by renowned contemporary artists from the impressive art collection owned by City of Dreams, including Good Intentions by KAWS, Fat Convertible by Erwin Wurm, 200 LITOFAIRHOUR by Charles Pétillon, Wild Pansy by Jean-Michel Othoniel, ContinuelLumière au Plafond by Julio Le Parc and 9 Seas by Mathieu Lehanneur. Location: City of Dreams Time: Between June 6 and October 31

INTERSPACE Organised by Nam Kwong (Group) Company Limited, the exhibition Interspace shows an array of artworks by famous French sculptor Gabrielle Wambaugh, reflecting on the integration of space and art at Riviera Hotel Macau. Working mostly with ceramic and sculpture, her works always express the relationship between space and interspace, revealing the truth through concealment, and looking for space unconstrained by form through sculpture. Othoniel）的 Wild Pansy；胡里奥·勒帕克（Julio Le Parc）的 Continuel Lumiere au Plafond 以及马修 ·雷汉尼尔 Mathieu Lehanneur 的 9 Seas。地址：新濠天地时间：6 月 6 日－10 月 31 日

空间真相

在澳门濠璟酒店展出的 “空间真相 ”由南光 (集团 )有限公司主办，展览著名法国雕塑

（Carnival Overture）及柴可夫斯基的《第五交响曲》。前者热情赞美旺盛不熄的生命之火，后者展示作曲家与命运的直接对抗。澳门国际烟花汇演比赛九月至十月来澳门的游客可以欣赏一年一度、壮观璀璨的澳门国际烟花比赛汇演。每年，有 100 多个国际烟花团队汇聚澳门，绽放璀璨缤纷的烟花于夜空中争奇斗艳。 쐽

Location: Riviera Hotel Macau Time: Time: From June 8 to October 15 In addition to exhibitions in resorts, the Macao Orchestra is also preparing an array of exciting concerts for Art Macao. On August 31 and in cooperation with internationally acclaimed cellist Alban Gerhardt, the orchestra will present Dmitri Shostakovich’s Cello Concerto No. 1, Op. 107, a work that uses the clash between cello and ensemble as a metaphor for the struggle of individual versus society. The programme also features Antonín Dvořák’s fiery and enthusiastic Carnival Overture, which celebrates the eternal flame of life, and Tchaikovsky’s Symphony No. 5, demonstrating the composer’s complete confrontation with fate.

MACAO INTERNATIONAL FIREWORKS DISPLAY CONTEST Tourists visiting Macau between September and October can witness the breathtaking annual Macao International Fireworks Display Contest. Every year, more than 100 international teams come together to perform spectacular displays in the night sky. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2019年 8月- 9月 | 13

意式风格，卓越超凡 Italian excellence 意大利罗马两大博物馆威尼斯宫（Palazzo Venezia）和圣天使城堡（Castel Sant’Angelo）分别举办 “宝格丽，传承与梦想 ”展览，回顾意国著名珠宝世家 Bvlgari 宝格丽的过百年荣耀历史 Palazzo Venezia and Castel Sant'Angelo present Bvlgari, la storia, il sogno, an exhibition that looks back at a century of the prestigious Italian house 文/by CÁTIA MATOS

vlgari宝格丽1884年创立于罗马后，迅速成为世界上最具标志性的卓越品牌之一，也是意式珠宝学院风格的象征。胆识过人、创造力、融合传统和创新等特质，使得品牌始终处于竞争日益激烈的珠宝业前沿。为了向其辉煌历史致敬，拉齐奥大区博物馆（Polo Museale del Lazio）携手 Bulgari 宝格丽，联合策划 “宝格丽，传承与梦想 ”展览（Bvlgari. The story, the dream），呈现宝格丽自品牌创立以来至 20 世纪 90 年代初期的历史。宝格丽家族的奇闻逸事以及品牌的营销策略和不竭灵感，是展览涵盖的一些主题。同时，展览还展示了私人藏家收藏的珠宝和作品，如伊丽莎白 • 泰勒（Elizabeth Taylor）、吉娜•劳洛勃丽吉达（Gina Lollobrigida）、英格丽 •褒曼（Ingrid Bergman）、安娜 •马格纳尼（Anna Magnani）以及奥黛丽 ·赫本（Audrey Hepburn）等曾红极一时的女星佩戴过的宝格 14 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

ounded in Rome in 1884, Bulgari quickly became one of the most iconic brands of excellence in the world and one of the symbols of the Italian School style of jewellery. Savoirfaire, creativity, tradition and innovation are some of the qualities that ensure it stays at the forefront of an increasingly competitive industry. As a way to honour its success story, the Polo Museale del Lazio, in partnership with Bulgari, organised the exhibition Bvlgari. La storia, il sogno (Bvlgari. The story, the dream), which reveals the history of the Italian house since its foundation until the early 1990s. Family occasions, sales strategies and creative intuitions are some of the themes of this exhibit, which also displays jewellery and creations from private collections, such as those of Elizabeth Taylor, Gina Lollobrigida, Ingrid Bergman, Anna Magnani and Audrey Hepburn.

Essential EXHIBITION

丽珠宝。在本次展览中也可以看到私藏家 Cecilia Matteucci Lavarini 收藏的宝格丽高端定制礼服展品。宝格丽集团首席执行官让 •克里斯托夫 • 巴宾（Jean-Christophe Babin）先生表示： “本次展览为公众提供了重新了解意式工艺典范宝格丽的辉煌历史和匠心巧思的独特机会（ ......）。从品牌创始人索帝里欧 •宝格丽先生本人到他的家族后代，他们都拥有捕捉时代精神的卓越天赋、无限热情及强大能力，以此创造了珠宝业的历史。” 此次展览由大众传播社会学家和历史学家 Chiara Ottaviano 策展，展出地点在罗马的威尼斯宫和圣天使城堡，展期至 11 月 3 日。 “宝格丽，传承与梦想”展览圣天使城堡 Lungotevere Castello, 50 威尼斯宫 Via del Plebiscito, 118 쐽

Haute couture dresses belonging to the collection of Cecilia Matteucci Lavarini can also be seen in this exhibition. “This is a unique chance to rediscover Bulgari’s history and creativity (...). The talent, passion and ability to capture the spirit of the time possessed by the company founder Sotirio Bulgari and subsequent generations of his family have shaped the history of jewellery in general,” said the CEO of the Bulgari group, Christophe Babin. Curated by Chiara Ottaviano, historian and sociologist of mass communication, the exhibit runs until November 3 at Palazzo Venezia and Castel Sant'Angelo in Rome. "Bvlgari, la storia, il sogno" Castel Sant'Angelo Lungotevere Castello, 50 Palazzo Venezia Via del Plebiscito, 118 쐽 澳门精华 | 2019年 8月- 9月 | 15

Essential SHOP

首间赛琳男士专卖店进驻澳门 First Celine men’s shop in Macau 首间赛琳男士专卖店进驻澳门 First Celine men’s shop in Macau 文/by EDWINA LIU

赛

琳（Celine）是全球最受欢迎的时尚品牌之一。2018 年，鬼才设计师 Hedi Slimane 被任命为创意总监，在时尚界引发了热议。不出所料，Hedi Slimane 为品牌带来了一场巨大的变革。今年初，赛琳在其位于纽约麦迪逊大道的专卖店推出了全新的建筑设计理念，随后在全球店铺内进行推广。 16 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

品牌近期在澳门开设了首间男士专卖店。店铺位于澳门银河，装修突显 Hedi Slimane 的新零售理念，多采用天然石材为材料。墙壁和衣架由黑色花岗岩包覆，上面饰有姜黄色和奶油色的纹理，地板则采用了罗马火山石。这些材料与再生橡木、水泥、抛光不锈钢、黄铜和金色镜子相辅相成，营造出了兼具一丝典雅色彩的 21 世纪野兽派风格。

赛琳专卖店里的家具也都由 Hedi Slimane 亲自设计。为了突显每间店铺独有风格，每家店铺都陈列有不同著名艺术家的作品。在澳门专卖店，陈列着多位当代艺术家的作品，如 James Balmforth、Jose Davila、Elaine Cameron-Weir 和 Oscar Tuazon。赛琳澳门银河专卖店陈列着品牌最新推出的成衣、珠宝及男女配饰。 쐽

Essential SHOP

eline is one of the most popular brands in the world. In 2018, the maison appointed talented designer Hedi Slimane as its creative director and triggered a discussion in the fashion industry. As expected, the designer brought a great reform to the brand. Earlier of this year, Celine launched a new architectural design concept in its Madison Avenue shop, in New York, which was subsequently implemented worldwide. Recently, the brand opened its first men’s shop in Macau. Located in Galaxy Macau, the shop is decorated in line with Hedi Slimane’s new retail concept, highlighting natural stones. Walls and shelving are covered in black granite with ginger and cream veins, and Roman lava stone is employed for flooring. These materials are complemented with reclaimed oak, concrete, polished stainless steel, brass and gold mirror in a refined 21st-century brutalist context. The furniture was also designed by Celine’s creative director. To make them more unique, each shop exhibits different artworks from famous artists. At the Macau shop, there are artworks of contemporary artists such as James Balmforth, Jose Davila, Elaine Cameron-Weir and Oscar Tuazon. The boutique at Galaxy Macau showcases the latest ready-to-wear, jewellery and accessories for both men and women. 쐽

澳门精华 | 2019年 8月- 9月 | 17

Essential JEWELLERY

为女性而生 Putting women at centre 她是世界上寥寥可数的高级珠宝公司首席执行官之一。《精华》与拥有超过 160 年历史的珠宝品牌 Boucheron 宝诗龙掌陀人 Hélène Poulit-Duquesne 进行了一场精彩对话 She is one of only a few female CEOs in high jewellery in the world. A conversation between Essential and Hélène Poulit-Duquesne, of the 160-year-old jewellery house Boucheron 文/by EDWINA LIU 图/photo HILL KWOK

如

今，女性比以往任何时候都更有能力，并早已开始提出分享领导权。芳登广场（Place Vendôme）被视为法国高级珠宝的中心，直到 2015 年 Hélène Poulit-Duquesne 被任命为宝诗龙首席执行官，旺多姆广场才出现了女总裁。 Boucheron 宝诗龙由费德列克 ·宝诗龙（Frédéric Boucheron）创立于 1858 年，是旺多姆广场最古老的珠宝品牌。Boucheron 宝诗龙以其大胆自由的风格而闻名世界，以提供更具创意的特色宝石珠宝作品而征服了女性的心。事实上，品牌一直都是为女性而生。“在高级珠宝工作方面，特别是在技术上我们的创始人真的极具创新精神。在 19 世纪末和 20 世纪初，他在国际展览中获得了大量奖项，”Hélène 说。“当他创造问号项链时，目的是释放女性。所以这真的是关乎女性的社会进化，因为那时候，如果你有一条高级珠宝项链，你必须有一位侍女来帮你佩戴，但他希望女人可以拥有能自己独立佩戴的珠宝，从而获得自由。” 您觉得宝诗龙与其他珠宝品牌相比有什么独特之处？我们可能是最具创意的高级珠宝品牌，我认为正是这点把我们与其他竞争对手区分开。自从我加入公司以来，我们一直在努力提升创意，并且真的尝试了解我们的特别之处，你必须知道，我们的 DNA 中最重要的一点就是创新。我认为这是宝诗龙先生本人的一个特别点子，至今它仍体现于我们的工作方式中——我们真 18 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

的很有创意。他曾经是一名企业家，在成为珠宝商之前他是商人，这在当时实属罕见。从一开始，他便想要释放女性，我认为这也是我们特有的东西，并会使我们从竞争对手中脱颖而出。我认为这些是最重要的。关于品牌开发新高级珠宝系列的流程，您可以告诉我们更多吗？流程非常简单。首先，我与我们的创意总监 Claire Choisne 紧密合作。她向我提议高级珠宝系列的主题，然后我们一起着手跟进，其实此前两到三年前我们已对主题展开讨论。一旦我批准了系列的主题，她就可以开始工作了。我们根据营销团队提供的简介选择作品，因此她从一开始便有了灵感。营销部门会提出，“我们需要一条价值 120 万的项链”，接着她就根据我们所需的具体产品绘画设计图。然后在此过程中，我会在团队里一一审视和通过所有设计图。在这个团队里，中，他们也可以讨论技术。更有趣的是，创意总监 Choisne 她不仅是一位好设计师，还是一名珠宝师。事实上，她首先学会的是如何制作珠宝，而不是如何设计珠宝。她本可以在制造业工作，这就是她最突出之处，因为她知道什么在技术上是可行或不可行。当她与工匠讨论产品时，她总是知道自己拥有他们同等的知识，因此她真的可以对技术性问题作出讨论。高级珠宝系列的整个制作过程历时逾两年，包括构思程序、决定主题及向公众发

owadays, women feel more empowered than ever and have begun to make their claims for leadership. At Place Vendôme, which is considered to be the epicentre of French high jewellery, there were no chairwomen until Hélène Poulit-Duquesne was appointed Chief Executive Officer of Boucheron in 2015. The brand was founded by Frédéric Boucheron in 1858 and it is the oldest jewellery maison at Place Vendôme. Famous throughout the world for its bold and free style, Boucheron has conquered women’s hearts by offering ever more creative jewellery sets with characterful stones. In fact, women have always at the centre of the maison. “Our founder was really innovative in the way he was working in high jewellery, especially technically. He won plenty of prizes in international exhibitions at the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century,” said the chairwoman. “When he created the Question Mark necklace, the purpose was to free women. So it's really about the social evolution of women, because, at that time, if you had a high-jewellery necklace, you had to have a lady's maid to help you to put it on, and he wanted a woman to be free to have a piece she could wear by herself, independently.” What do you think sets Boucheron apart from other jewellery brands? We are probably the most creative highjewellery brand, which I think is what really differentiates us from other competitors. We

Essential JEWELLERY

澳门精华 | 2019年 8月- 9月 | 19

Essential JEWELLERY

布作品。每年，我们都会在 7 月份巴黎时装周高级时装秀期间展示我们的最新系列。可以介绍一下全新高级珠宝系列吗？我们在过去三年中所做的工作中最重要的一点是，我们专注于品牌的根基，传承创始人的热情执着。我们用了一年半的时间去装修芳登广场 Boucheron 宝诗龙总店，我们于 12 月重新开业，并于 1 月份进行整合。这个地方对我们来说非常重要，因此我们将之重新装修后再重新开业。事实上，这是我们进行所有工作的根据地，从珠宝产品设计到制作和销售。我们自 1893 年以来一直立足于芳登广场总店，这使我们成为在旺多姆广场设立珠宝精品店的首家品牌。我们想要创造一个与这家店铺密切相关的高级珠宝系列，可以说这是 Boucheron 宝诗龙的核心灵魂。新系列的名称是 “Paris, vu du 26”。它并不是一个建筑系列，而是个无比梦幻的系列。创意总监从她对巴黎的梦想和愿景中汲取灵感而创作了这些作品。这是一个与宝石相联的故事。她与石头朝夕相处，因为她在芳登广场店建筑里工作。同时，她也运用贵宝石创作，带出对这些石材的诠释。你最喜欢的 Boucheron 宝诗龙系列是什么？ Jack De Boucheronxilo 系列。可能因为它是全新的，所以我满心欢喜地佩戴 Jack 系列。我喜欢它，因为它不是一个经典的系列，它属于自由的灵魂，这对 Boucheron 宝诗龙来说很重要。让一件珠宝被紧锁于保险箱里是最哀伤之事，你必须佩戴它。我认为我们必须推动女性在日常生活中佩戴珠宝，甚至高级珠宝。这个系列不仅包含手镯、戒指或项链，同时也包罗万有。您可以将它们组合在一起，创造自己的佩戴方式和自己的首饰。我们专注于女性及其生活方式。我们可以帮助他们创造自己的风格，以她们自己认为合适的方式佩戴珠宝。

have been working on that a lot since I joined the company and really trying to understand what is so specific to us, and you have to know that one thing which is really important to our DNA is innovation. I think this is a particular idea that came from Boucheron himself that we still have today in the way we work – we are really innovative. He used to be an entrepreneur, so he was a businessman before being a jeweller, which was really special at that time. From the very beginning, he wanted to free women, and I think this is also something which is really specific to us and potentially sets us from our competitors.. I think those are the most important points. Could you please tell us more about the brand’s process to develop a new highjewellery collection? The process is very simple. First, I work very close to Claire Choisne, our creative director. We work together on the theme she proposes to me for the high-jewellery collection, which we discuss about two to three years beforehand. Once I approve the theme, she can get to work. We select the pieces depending on the brief that was given by the marketing team, so she has the inspiration from the get-go. The marketing department will say, “We need a 1.2 million necklace”, and she draws, depending on the type of product we need. And then in the process I validate all the drawings in the committee – what we call the creation committee – where I sign off on every project. In the committee, they can also discuss technique. One thing which is really interesting about Choisne is that she is not only a good drawer, she's also a jeweller. In fact, she first learned how to make jewellery, not how to design it. She could have worked in manufacturing so that’s why she is very strong, because

she knows what is technically feasible or not. When she discusses the product with the craftsmen, she always knows she has the same level of knowledge as them, and so she can really debate over the technique. The whole process for high-jewellery collections takes more than two years between the deliberation process, deciding on the theme and the unveiling to the public. Every year, we present our latest collection at Paris Fashion Week during the Haute Couture show, in July. Could you introduce the new collection? The most important thing in the work we have been doing in the last three years was focused in our roots, our founder’s passion. The store we own at Place Vendôme was under renovation for 18 months, and we reopened in December, integrated in January. This place is so important for us, which is why renovated and reopened it. In fact, this is where we do everything, from creating to manufacturing the pieces and selling them. We have been there since 1893, which makes us first brand to set up a boutique in Place Vendôme. We wanted to create a high-jewellery collection that was truly linked to this shop, which I would say is the heart of Boucheron. The name of the collection is Paris,vu du 26. It’s not an architectural collection, it goes beyond dreams. The creative director drew the pieces from her dreams and vision of Paris.It’s a story about stones. She worked with stones because she works in the building at Place Vendôme. She also worked on the precious gems as an interpretation of these stones. What's your favourite collection from the brand? Jack De Boucheron. Probably because it's new, so that is why I'm so happy to wear it. 澳门精华 | 2019年 8月- 9月 | 21

Essential JEWELLERY

22 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential JEWELLERY

钟表也是 Boucheron 宝诗龙的重要组成部分。你会如何描述它们？我在制表业工作了 20 年，所以我对这个领域非常了解。我们的 Reflet 腕表创作于 1947 年，自此成为市场上的殿堂级产品。可更换表带于 1947 年获得专利，但它非常现代，非常现代。你可以用自己的方式尽情大玩佩戴方式：你可以每天轻松更换表带，并且可根据着装配搭不同色彩的表带。我也认为我们有非常好的高级珠宝时计，即是非常女性化的珠宝腕表。我想指出，高级珠宝品牌涉足制表业是极典型的，这对一些女性来说非常重要，特别是在亚洲。所以我们也可以为我们的客户提供这项服务，我甚感欣慰。可持续发展是 Boucheron 宝诗龙品牌理念的重要组成部分。对于品牌如何承担这一责任，您能否告诉我们多些？我们正在使用三种不同的材料。其一是黄金，这极其重要。今年，我们所用黄金的其中九成，已经达成以可持续的方式使用。我们的目标是达到 100％。我们也有兴趣以可持续方式使用宝石，所以我们的第二种材料：钻石 — — 是来自钻矿的完全可追踪的钻石。我们的目标是在某个时点，从原始阶段直至戒指戴到您手上的全过程都能确知钻石来自这个行业的什么地方。第三种材料也是宝石，因为我们公司内部正展开一个彩色贵宝石项目。这就有点困难，因为涉及的宝石矿都是三到十人的蚊型矿场。因此，要整合整条制作链并确保我们全面跟踪从矿场到市场的整个产品流程，这要困难得多，但我相信在未来几年这可以实现。可持续发展非常重要，因此我们非常大量投入这些项目。作为领导一家大型企业的女性，您面临的最大挑战是什么？您又是如何克服困难的？我从未觉得因为自己是女人而妨碍了职业生涯发展。我知道有些女性因性别而受到歧视，但这不适用于我。我真心相信：男性和女性的从商行为并不相同，但他们为行业带来了不同的东西，我们需要两性好好工作好好合作，我属下的部门便是如此，我们的男女性员工各占一半。拥有男女视点对我来说非常重要，这样我们才能做到最好。 쐽

I love it because it’s not a classic collection, it's something of a free spirit, which is important for Boucheron. There is nothing sadder than a piece of jewellery that is kept in the safe, you have to wear it. I think that we have to push women to wear jewellery, even high jewellery, in their daily life. This collection doesn’t just have a bracelet or a ring or a necklace, it's everything at the same time. You can simply put them together and design your own way of wearing it and your own jewellery. We are focused on women and their lifestyle. We can help them create their own styles to wear their jewellery as they see fit. Timepieces are also an important part of Boucheron. How would you describe them? I have been working in the watchmaking industry for 20 years, so I'm very knowledgeable in this field. Our watch Reflet was created in 1947 and has been an icon in the market since. The interchangeable class was patented in 1947 but it's very contemporary, very modern. You can play with it in your own way – you can easily change the bracelet every day, and there are plenty of colours depending on your outfits. I also think that we have very good highjewellery timepieces, meaning very feminine, jewellery watches. I would say it's very typical for a high-jewellery brand to also dabble in watchmaking, which is really important for some women, especially in Asia. So I love that we can also offer this service to our clients. Sustainability is an important part of Boucheron’s philosophy. Could you tell us more about how the brand takes on this responsibility?

We are working with three different materials. The first one is gold, which is really important. This year, we are going to have 90% of our gold used in a sustainable way. Our goal is to reach 100%. We are also interested in working with stones, and here we have our second material: diamonds – completely traceable diamonds coming from the mine. The goal is to, at some point, know precisely where the diamonds come from in this industry, from the raw stage to the ring that you have on your hand. The third material is also a stone, as we have a project going on internally in the company for precious coloured gems. It’s a bit more difficult because there are only very small mines of three to ten people. Therefore, to integrate all the chain and to be sure we follow the product from mine to market, it's a lot more difficult, but I am sure that in the years to come it will happen. Sustainability is really important, so we are very invested in these projects. What was the biggest challenge you faced as a female leader and how did you overcome it? I never felt that being a woman was something that could hinder my career. I know some women suffer from being a woman in business, but that is not the case for me. What I truly believe is that men and women do not behave the same in business, but that they bring different things to the business and that we need both to work well, which is the case in my sector – we have half woman and half men. It’s super important to me to have both sides of the world because that’s what gives the best. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2019年 8月- 9月 | 23

Essential JEWELLERY

大自然的颂歌 An ode to nature Piaget 伯爵推出最新珠宝系列 Golden Oasis，灵感来自沙漠摄人心魄的景观 Golden Oasis, the latest collection from Piaget, is inspired by the desert and its landscape

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为 Piaget 伯爵最新的珠宝系列， Golden Oasis（金色绿洲）以三大主题展现沙漠之美：Play of Lights（光的韵律）、 Desert Minerals（沙漠之矿）和 Native Bloom （沙地花开），通过精致的珠宝歌颂大自然。将珍贵金属和纯真宝石设计幻化为项链、指环、耳环和腕表塑形，每一件都尽显 Piaget 伯爵的匠心巧思和卓绝工艺。 24 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

此系列的第一个子系列——Play of Lights，展现沙漠从日出到日落的不同颜色。其中 Golden Hour（黄金时刻）的各件珠宝，通过钻石体现太阳升至天空最高点时转瞬即逝的烈光。其中的铂金和黄金项链尤其让人联想起太阳，饰有一颗 6.63 克拉的艳彩黄钻。 Desert Minerals 子系列采用了钻石、红宝石和蓝宝石，通过精美的设计和鲜艳的

lay of Lights, Desert Minerals and Native Bloom are the three facets of Piaget’s most recent collection. Golden Oasis evokes desert landscapes, with fine jewellery pieces celebrating nature. Precious metals and genuine stones give shape to necklaces, rings, earrings and watches, each one showcasing all the brand’s savoir-faire.

Essential JEWELLERY

色彩，以白钻石与蓝宝石相衬，珠宝宛如沙漠中一条隐秘的瀑布。尤其是其中的 Blue Waterfall（蓝瀑布）项链，环绕颈间仿佛碧波荡漾的流水，以 18 克拉白金为基调，镶饰 14.61 克拉的枕形切割蓝钻，被 Piaget 伯爵的宝石专家描述为 “马达加斯加最美丽的蓝宝石 ”。此外， Blue Waterfall 腕表延续着 “瀑布 ”这一主题。腕表采用白色珍珠母贝表盘，周围环绕镶饰马眼形切割蓝宝石的精美表圈。 Blue Waterfall 腕表使用白金表盘，搭配的表链镌刻有 Piaget 伯爵标志性的宫殿装饰图纹。这种独家工艺，通过手工镌刻珍贵金属和紧密连接的链节，呈现别具一格的效果。Secret Water（秘密之水）

腕表是这系列的又一珍品，特别甄选欧泊石，整体外观犹如浩瀚的天空在水中连绵不绝的倒影。 Native Bloom 主题礼赞在逆境中茁壮成长的沙漠野花和植物。其中的 Luxuriant Oasis 项链以密镶马眼形切割绿宝石，散发出耀眼的碧绿光泽。精美的镂空设计呼应蜿蜒的河岸，正中镶饰一颗 3.01 克拉的梨形美钻。 Vegetal Laces 耳骨夹交替镶饰钻石与绿宝石，呈现出唯美的植物造型。 Golden Oasis 子系列再次凸显了 Piaget 伯爵的远见卓识和其出色的瑞士工艺，秉承创始人乔治·爱德华·伯爵(Georges-Édouard Piaget)自 1847 年起创下的非凡品质。 쐽

The first line of this collection, Play of Lights, reflects the colours of the desert, from sunrise to sunset. The Golden Hour pieces embody the fleeting point of intense light, when the sun is at its zenith, with diamonds. The platinum and yellow gold necklace in particular is inspired by the sun and features a vivid yellow diamond with 6.63 carats. Desert Minerals plays with diamonds, rubies and sapphires. This jewellery set, with an impressive design and intense colours, evokes a hidden waterfall in the desert, with white diamonds contrasting with blue sapphires. Evidence of that is the Blue Waterfall necklace, in 18-carat white gold. Featuring a 14.61-carat cushion-cut blue diamond, described by the Piaget gemologist as “the most beautiful sapphire from Madagascar”, this piece is reminiscent of the flow of water. The Blue Waterfall watch from the same line continues the theme, and features marquise-cut sapphires that interlink, forming a ring that surrounds the white mother-of-pearl dial. The version with white gold dial is complemented by a bracelet engraved with Palace Decor, one of the brand’s signatures, which involves manually engraving the precious metal with links to create a unique effect. The Secret Water watch is another star in this line, which has the opal as its stone of choice and which takes inspiration from the sky’s reflection in a pool of water. The Native Bloom line is an ode to the wild desert flowers and plants that flourish in the face of adversity. The Luxuriant Oasis necklace from this line stands out for the intense green glow emitted by the marquise-cut emeralds. The design of the piece evokes the winding shores of a river, with the lines culminating in a single pear-shaped diamond with 3.01 carats. As for the Vegetal Laces ear cuff, it features diamonds alternated with green emeralds, forming the design of a plant. The Golden Oasis collection emphasises once again the visionary spirit and craftsmanship of excellence of the Swiss house, founded in 1847 by Georges-Édouard Piaget. 쐽

澳门精华 | 2019年 8月- 9月 | 27

Essential WATCHES

28 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential WATCHES

山度士回归 The Santos comeback Cartier 卡地亚最具标志性的男士腕表系列之一 Santos 山度士华丽回归，最受注目的当属全新 Santos-Dumont 石英机芯腕表 The Santos model from Cartier, one of the most iconic pieces in the Parisian maison’s men’s jewellery collection, is back with new models, of which the biggest surprise is the new Santos-Dumont with quartz movement 文/by CÉSAR BRIGANTE

antos山度士系列诞生于 1904年，源自当时著名的巴西航空先驱阿尔伯特 ·山度士 · 杜蒙(Alberto Santos-Dumont)的一次委约创作。山度士在早期设计并驾驶飞船，后来转向比空气重的飞行装置——即以后的飞机。这款方形表壳腕表，使山度士终于能够在飞行中查看时间，满足了他的实际需要。受当时新兴的审美启发，Santos山度士系列凭借对称和比例均衡的设计，营造出极尽典雅的美感。不论是飞行员、发明家或钟爱精美细节的男士，Santos 山度士系列都让人称心如意。 Santos 山度士系列现有四种表款：Santos-Dumont 腕表、Santos de Cartier 计时码表、Santos de Cartier 腕表、Santos de Cartier 镂空腕表，在实体店和网上商店均已发售。全新 Santos 山度士系列的表壳形状与过往有所不同，表链可以轻松拆卸更换，配有各款颜色供选择。其中最引入注目的是 Santos-Dumont 腕表：据 Cartier 公司表示，此表款秉承原版 Santos 腕表的实用原则，特别引入石英机芯，让腕表动力比一般标准高两倍，续航时间长达 6 年左右。这其中当然少不了一块高性能电池，但仅此还不足以达到如此续航能力。为此， Cartier 特意更换机芯并修改机芯尺寸，从而进一步降低能耗。对于不钟情备受追捧的机械腕表的消费者，全新 Santos-Dumont 系列是 Cartier 卡地亚不可多得的精明之选。现有三种表壳（金、精钢、金与精钢）和两种尺寸选择，搭配鳄鱼皮表带。쐽

antos by Cartier was born in 1904 from an order made by the famous pioneer of Brazilian aviation, Alberto Santos-Dumont. The wrist piece and square case fulfilled the aeronaut’s practical need to tell the time on aerial trips, which he began in airships and later in the incredible heavier-than-air flying machines that he conceived and piloted. Inspired by an aesthetic rationale that started to manifest itself at that time, because of its symmetry and proportions, Santos by Cartier was also a piece of extreme elegance, conceived for someone who, besides being a pilot and an inventor, was also a groomed gentleman who did not forgo the finer details. The new collection that now lands at boutiques and on the online store comprises four models: the Santos-Dumont Watch, the Santos de Cartier Chronograph, the Santos de Cartier Watch and the Santos de Cartier Skeleton. Besides the alterations made, namely in the shape of the cases and the easily changeable bracelets that are available in a pleasant arrangement of colours, the big highlight is the Santos-Dumont model. According to Cartier, this new piece underlines the practical aspect that led to the conception of the original Santos, which is substantiated by the introduction of a quartz movement, whose power reserve lasts around six years, twice as long as usual. This longevity was only possible to attain thanks to the use of a high-performance battery, and even then only after the manufacturer changed and resized the movement so as to reduce energy consumption. For the consumer less interested in the marvels of mechanical watchmaking, this new Santos-Dumont, with gold, steel, and gold and steel case, in two sizes and with a crocodile strap, represents the (more affordable) possibility of owning a Cartier watch. 쐽

澳门精华 | 2019年 8月- 9月 | 29

Essential PHOTOGRAPHY

奇幻旅程 Fantastic journey 伦敦(V&A)维多利亚和阿尔伯特博物馆举办时尚摄影大师 Tim Walker 大展 The Victoria & Albert Museum receives a grand exhibition from photographer Tim Walker 文/by CÁTIA MATOS

im Walker是世界上最具创造力的摄影师之一，现在其作品得到全球最大的艺术和设计博物馆 — — 伦敦 (V&A)维多利亚和阿尔伯特博物馆——的认可，为他举办展览。此次展览致敬这位摄影艺术家在 25年事业历程中对创意圈作出的非凡贡献，并强调 V＆A藏品在他的创作过程中所发挥的重要作用。 Tim Walker：Wonderful Things 是该位摄影大师迄今为止举行过的规模最大的展览，展出其 300 多件作品，涵盖照片和赋予摄影师创作灵感的 V＆A 物品，以及其他电影短片、摄影布景和道具、相冊和素描。本次展览的亮点是艺术家承接的 10 个新摄影项目，它们直接受到 V＆A 永久收藏的珍品的影响。 30 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

im Walker is one of the most creative photographers in the world, and now his work is duly recognised by the Victoria & Albert Museum in London through an exhibition organised by the art and design museum. This recognition is a way of marking the artist’s extraordinary contribution to the creative world over the course of 25 years, emphasising the important role that the V&A collection has had in his creative process. Tim Walker: Wonderful Things is the photographer’s largest exhibit to date, gathering more than 300 works that cover photographs and the V&A objects that inspired them, short films, photographic sets and props, scrapbooks and

Essential PHOTOGRAPHY

澳门精华 | 2019年 8月- 9月 | 31

Essential PHOTOGRAPHY

sketches. The highlight of this exhibition is the 10 new photographic projects undertaken by the artist, directly influenced by the treasures of the permanent V&A collection. Designed by acclaimed set designer Shona Heath, the exhibition guides each visitor on a fantastic journey through Walker’s enchanted world. “For me, V&A has always been a dream palace – it’s the most inspiring place in the world (…) Preparing for this exhibition over the past three years has pushed me into new territories, which is very exciting, and I’m at a stage in my life where I feel brave enough to do that,” explained Tim Walker. Running from 21 September to 8 March, 2020, the exhibit is curated by Susanna Brown. “Tim has a wildly inquisitive mind and a boundless energy. He never stops innovating and these new pictures are some of the most spectacular he has ever made. Tim’s photographs and Shona’s exhibition design combine to create a show that I think our visitors will adore,” notes the curator. “The book which accompanies the exhibition reveals more about his complex process and includes fascinating interviews with Tim and 20 of his closest collaborators.” "Tim Walker: Wonderful Things" Victoria and Albert Museum Cromwell Road London 쐽

此次展览由著名布景设计师 Shona Heath 设计，将带领观众踏上一个奇幻旅程，一窥 Walker 的精彩艺术世界。 “对我来说，V＆A 一直是梦想的宫殿—— 它是世界上最振奋人心的地方 (......)— — 过去三年的展览筹备工作，把我带进了全新领域，这过程非常精彩刺激，而我正处于生命中的独特阶段，觉得自己有足够的勇气去达成目标，”Tim Walker 表示。展览由 Susanna Brown 策展，展期从 2019 年 9 月 21 日至 2020 年 3 月 8 日。“Tim 好奇心强，活力无限。他一直坚持创新，展出中的这些新照片是他职业生涯以来创作的最精彩绝伦的其中一些。 Tim 的摄影作品和 Shona 的展览设计相得益彰，共同缔造我认为观众会喜欢的此次展览，”策展人 Susanna Brown 说， “展览图册详细揭示了他复杂的创作过程，并收录了对 Tim 以及与他最紧密合作的 20 名人士的精彩访谈。” Tim Walker: Wonderful Things (V&A)维多利亚和阿尔伯特博物馆克伦威尔路伦敦 쐽 澳门精华 | 2019年 8月- 9月 | 33

Essential ART

力促文化交流 Cultural Exchange 作为一个有着特殊历史背景的城市，澳门已成为促进亚洲与欧洲文化交流的重要门户 As a city with a special historical background, Macau has become an important gateway to promote cultural exchange between Asia and Europe 文/by EDWINA LIU

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力让艺术面向公众，为澳门引入大量精彩的艺术和文化项目，同时支持及促进澳门建设成为一个文化和娱乐目的地，在这方面，澳门美高梅是城中的佼佼者。澳门美高梅艺术及文化副总裁郭蕙心表示：“在过去，人们只能在博物馆看到艺术品，但只有为数不多的人会参观美术馆，因为他们觉得艺术品“贵”不可及。我们想为访澳旅客提供一个更轻松地欣赏艺术品的方式。我们希望推动文化旅游。如今，人们出游更偏好自助游而非跟旅行团，而自助游客的要求更高。我们认为让人们更易接触、欣赏艺术极其重要的。我们酒店有导赏员，引领客人在此享受一个艺术之旅。” 为提高社会对艺术和文化的认识，澳门美高梅与许多艺术家合办过许多精彩大展，包括令人叹为观止的展览《维纳斯》——聚焦佛罗伦萨文艺复兴艺术家桑德罗·波提切利的生平、传奇、遗产和他的不朽名作，《老北京城紫檀雕刻展 — 天造地创》，《古 “金 ”中外 — 黄金艺术珍品展》等；而最新展览有《华源》，为观众带来现代水墨的艺术体验。郭蕙心表示： “我们不希望仅仅在这里展出艺术品。更重要的是要展示不同国家的文化。在《古“金”中外 — 黄金艺术珍品展》期间，我们邀请了一位来自巴黎的专家在现场教宾客用金箔制造相框。这样的文化交流有重大意义。” 2018 年，澳门美高梅推出艺术研讨会计划，冀荟萃世界上不同的文化进行交流。 “去年，艺术研讨会的主题是 ‘探索公共艺术新定义 ’ ，而今年的主题是 ‘艺 · 转 ·科技 ’ 。我们邀请全球艺术精英汇聚一堂，互相分享他们的艺术洞见。” 2015 年，澳门美高梅在天幕廣場举办了葡萄牙艺术家琼安娜 ‧瓦思康丝勒 (Joana Vasconcelos)的特展，展现澳门在中国与葡萄牙和世界各地的 500 年通商史中发挥的不可或缺的作用。琼安娜是一名年轻的女艺术家，以雕塑和装置艺术反映各种社会和政 34 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

治议题而著称。她是在巴黎凡尔赛宫举办过展览的首位女性和最年轻艺术家。郭蕙心解释说：“2015 年，我们想在天幕廣場为客人带来一种新的体验。在巧合之下，我们遇到了琼安娜。澳门对她来说是一个特别的地方，因为她祖母曾住在这里，而她自小便听到关于这个城市的故事。”秉持持续促进艺术和文化发展的使命，美高梅后来更支持这位国际著名的葡萄牙艺术家于威尼斯双年展上展出新作，举办题为《 What are you hiding? May you find what you are looking for》（《你在隐藏什么？希望你找到你所追寻的》）的展览。 “很有趣的是，我们与琼安娜之间发生的故事，正如现在推行的 ‘一带一路 ’倡议。她的祖母曾在澳门生活，而 2015 年她携作品来澳门美高梅开展，展现葡萄牙文化的方方面面，然后，我们将她的作品从澳门带到威尼斯展出。她说当时葡萄牙人的海上丝绸之路正是经历了这样相同的路线，” 郭蕙心补充说。《澳门精华》与葡萄牙著名艺术家琼安娜对谈，讨论她关于创作和文化交流的观点和愿景。你是什么时候发现自己有艺术才华的？一切都是非常自然地发生的。我从未 “决定 ”成为一名艺术家，只是水到渠成而已。在上学时，我学习绘画和珠宝，还会参观各种工作室，而每份经历都拓展了我的观念，孕育种种可能性。坦白说，我是在艺术的熏陶下长大：父亲是摄影师，母亲学习装饰艺术，而祖母能绘画和弹钢琴，所以家人对我有意走上艺术道路并不感到惊讶。反之，他们从一开始就非常支持我，而每一天我都全力以赴，做好艺术家的角色。一开始（现在也是如此）真正驱动我的是强大的生活意志，以及要把自己工作做好的强烈责任感，同时极力关注周遭事物的艺术概念上的意义。

GM Macau is a leader in this city that strives to make art accessible to the public and bring magnificently expansive art and culture programmes while supporting and reinforcing Macau as a cultural and entertainment destination “In the past, people could only see artworks in museums, and not many people would visit galleries because they considered those pieces to be expensive. We want to provide a more relaxed way for tourists to enjoy artworks during their stay in Macau,” says Cristina Kuok, vice president of Arts and Culture at MGM Macau. “We want to promote cultural tourism. Nowadays, people prefer self-guided tours instead of package excursions and they are more demanding. We believe making art more accessible is important. In our resorts, there are guides who can lead guests to enjoy an art tour here.” To improve community awareness on art and culture, MGM Macau has collaborated with many artists and showcased an array of wonderful events, including a spectacular exhibition featuring Florentine Renaissance artist Sandro Botticelli’s life, legend, legacy and his enduring masterpiece, Venus; the Red Sandalwood Art Exhibition of Old Beijing City Gates; A Golden Way of Life – Très’Ors; and more recently, the Hua Yuan exhibition which offers a modern artistic ink experience. “We don’t want to just bring some artworks here. It’s more important to bring the culture from different countries,” says Kuok. “During the A Golden Way of Life – Très’Ors exhibition, we invited an expert from Paris to teach our guests how to make the photo frame with gold foil. This kind of culture exchange is very significant.” In 2018, MGM debuted the Art Symposium programme to bring world cultures together. “Last year, our topic of the art symposium was

琼安娜・瓦思康丝勒与郭蕙心

Joana Vasconcelos with Cristina Kuok

Essential ART

你最重要的灵感来源是什么？我会特别受到生活及其日常事物的启发，例如符号／标志、我们身边的事物、当代社会的行为等。我的创作建基于对预先存在的事物和日常现实进行借用、去情景化和颠覆。雕塑和装置艺术，以及行为艺术和视频或摄影等形式的作品，全部透过物质化概念结合，挑战预设的日常。我觉得有必要仔细思考我们的现实，以及进行沟通和提问题。就发展我的艺术创作而言，这确实是驱动我创作的原因。

你处理过的许多主题其实都与女性特质、女性亲密关系、女权主义有关。你想通过作品传达什么？你在寻求什么对话？我无意为作品赋予任何特定的含义，因为我想它们具有开放性。我真正想的是为人们提供一个批判性的视野，让人们就周遭事物质询自己。我的意思是让我的作品具探究性，能拓宽人们对于世界的看法和认识。我强烈相信艺术能催生关于现实的新讨论和新观点。当然，你始终能在我的作品中发现某些特定议题——例如社会中的性别角色、本地与全球、私人与公共、品味的概念等，但 36 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

‘Redefining Public Art’, while this year’s topic is ‘Transforming Art with Technology’. We invited global art elites to converge at the symposium to share their artistic insights.” In 2015, MGM Macau held a special exhibition at Grande Praça with Portuguese artist Joana Vasconcelos, which showcased Macau’s integral role in the 500-year history of trade between China, Portugal and the rest of the world. Vasconcelos is a young female artist who is known for sculptures and installations, through which she tackles various social and political issues. She was the first woman and the youngest artist to exhibit at the Palace of Versailles. “In 2015, we wanted to create a new experience for our guests at Grande Praça. By chance, we met Joana,” Kuok explains. “Macau is a special place for her – her grandmother lived here and she grew up hearing stories about the city.” Continuing MGM’s mission to foster art and culture, new and recent works by the internationally renowned Portuguese artist were on display at the What are you hiding? May you find what you are

looking for exhibition at the Venice Biennale, with the group’s support. “It is very interesting that when we talk about Belt and Road Initiative, it’s like our story with Joana. Her grandmother lived in Macau and she came here in 2015 with her artworks, showcasing many aspects of Portuguese culture, and then, we brought her work from Macau to Venice. She said this was the same route that Portuguese people travelled in maritime Silk Road,” says Kuok. Essential Macau spoke with this renowned artist to explore her vision of creating and cultural exchange. When did you first realise you had a talent for art? Everything happened in a very natural way. I never “decided” to become an artist, it was something that sort of happened. In school, I studied drawing, jewellery, visited various studios and with each experience I gained a greater notion of the spectrum of possibilities. Truthfully, I grew up very much surrounded by the arts: my father is a photographer, my

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我并非有意如此，因为我不希望我的作品自我封闭，只局限于某种讨论或诠释。艺术之所以丰富多彩，在于能够给予我们种种不同的新观点。很自然地，我的作品源于我看事物的角度。我是一个葡萄牙人、欧洲女性，而这就制约了我与世界互动的方式。我看事物、生活和思考的方式，都受到这个事实的制约。我有的仅仅是自己的角度，因此很自然地，我会思考自己性别所处的地位，这只是其中一个例子。由于我的观点和观察世界的方式无容置疑地受到这种条件的制约，因此我会被女性相关范畴吸引最自然不过。然而，虽然我经常被标签为女权主义者，但其实并非如此。女权主义引起我如此大的兴趣，原因只在于还有女性被当成低等公民，不能享受平等的权利。这不仅是配额的问题，而是实实在在的人权问题、人人平等的问题。在我们女性获得与男性相同的权利之前，我会是个女权主义支持者。您与美高梅是什么关系？双方是怎样结缘的？我们的结缘始于何超琼女士和澳门美高梅团队邀请我在澳门美高梅的中心地带 — — 天幕广场 — — 举办展览，成为第一位在此处展出的当代艺术家。这是我第一次也是唯一一次在中国境内举办个人展览，这在我的艺术生涯中是个尤其特别的时刻，不仅因为葡萄牙与澳门的关系——也因为我的家族与澳门的渊源。对任何葡萄牙人来说，澳门都显得亲切而熟悉，也是我们文化的一部分，因为我们有着 500 年的共同历史。就我而言，澳门有着特别的个人意义，因为我的一些家人曾在上世纪 50 年代定居澳门，而他们向我分享了许多当时的生活经历。我的祖母经常煮澳门菜，她给我的结婚礼物也是从澳门带回来的佛像。何超琼女士曾到访我在里斯本的工作室，之后当我收到澳门美高梅的展览邀请时，我想起了葡萄牙与中国的历史性关系、两国文化各自的特色以及大海对于中葡关系的重要性。我立刻产生了创作一件属于 “女武神 ” (Valkyries)系列的作品的想法——《八面灵龙》就此诞生，它是一只大型而瑰丽的海洋生物，让人想起葡萄牙前往东方的航海壮举。在创作过程中，我也进一步研究了中国文化的一些原理和民俗信仰，最后决定赋予作品八只手臂，因为考虑到 “八 ”这个数字在中国象征财富之故，而在颜色上也遵循风水原则。在澳门美高梅进行创作感觉如何？你满意这次展览吗？《八面灵龙》是 “女武神 ”系列至今最大型作品之一，长 35 米、高 20 米，融合葡萄牙和中国的传统元素，并且加入了一项能够使用充气物的新技术，同时运用了 LED 灯。整个作品由色彩柔和的各种织物和装饰物拼缝，采用了一些结合工业和技术元素的手工艺，以从主躯干突出的长触须拥抱着圆柱形水族馆，触须一直延伸到另外三件属

mother studied decorative arts, and my grandmother painted and played piano, so it wasn’t a shock within my family that I should be interested in an artistic path. Instead, they greatly supported me from day one, and every day I do my best to be an artist. What truly began to move me (and still does) was a great will to live, and a strong sense of responsibility to do my work well, with the utmost concern for the artistic and conceptual dimension of things. What is the most important source of inspiration for you? I am specially inspired by life and its day-today aspects: the symbols, the objects that surround us, the behaviours of contemporary society. My creative process is based on the appropriation, de-contextualisation and subversion of pre-existent objects and everyday realities. Sculptures and installations, as well as the recourse to performances and video or photographic records, all combine in materialising concepts, which challenge the pre-arranged routines of the quotidian. I feel a need to think over our reality, to communicate and to raise questions. This is really what leads me to work in the sense of taking my pieces as far as possible. A lot of the themes you tackle are in fact linked to femininity, feminine intimacy and feminism. What do you want to convey with your work, what dialogue are you seeking? I don’t mean to prescribe a specific meaning to my artworks, as I want them to be open. What I really want is to confront people with a critical view that makes them question themselves about that which surrounds them. I mean for my works to be inquisitive and to broaden people’s perspectives and knowledge of the world. I strongly believe art generates new discussions and views over reality. Of course you can always identify some of the issues present in my work – such as gender roles in society, the local and the global, the private and the public, the notion of taste, etc – but that’s really not my intention, as I don’t wish for my works to close themselves upon a certain discourse or interpretation. The richness of art lies in this capacity to give us different and new points of view. Naturally, my artwork comes from my perspective on things. I am a Portuguese, European woman, and that conditions the way I engage with the world. My way of seeing, living and thinking is conditioned by this fact. I cannot have another perspective but my own, and thus it’s natural that I will reflect on the status of my gender, for example. It’s only natural that I’m drawn to the female universe since my perspective and ways of observing the world are undeniably

connected to this “condition”. But, contrary to what I’m usually labelled as, I’m not necessarily a feminist. Feminism interests me insomuch as there are women out there who are being treated as lesser citizens and don’t have equal rights. It’s not only about quotas; it’s about real human rights and equality for all. I’ll consider myself a supporter of feminism until we are conceded the same rights as men. What’s your relationship with MGM? How did it begin? The relationship began with an invitation by Pansy Ho and the MGM Macau team, to become the first contemporary artist to exhibit at the Grand Praça – the epicentre of MGM Macau. This was a particularly special moment in my career not only because of the relationship that exists between Portugal and Macau – including within my own family – as this was the first and only time I exhibited individually in China. For any Portuguese, Macau is a familiar place and a part of our culture, since we have a 500-year-old history in common. In my case, Macau has a particular and personal significance, as part of my family lived there in the 1950s and shared with me many of the experiences they had during their stay. My grandmother used to cook a lot of Macanese food and her wedding gift to me was a Buddha that came from there. When I received the invitation to exhibit at MGM Macau, after receiving a visit from Pansy Ho at my studio in Lisbon, I reflected on the historical connections between Portugal and China, having in mind the features that are characteristic to each culture, and the importance of the sea to this relationship. The idea to create a piece from my Valkyries series emerged immediately, and Valkyrie Octopus arose as a great sea creature that evokes the epic voyages of the Portuguese to the Orient. Throughout the process, I also did further research into the principles and popular beliefs of Chinese culture, and thus came the idea to give the piece eight arms, considering the symbolic fortune that is associated to this number in China, as well as the use of colours that follow the Feng Shui principles. How was working at MGM Macau? Are you satisfied with the exhibition? The Valkyrie Octopus piece is one of the largest to date of this series, 35 metres long and 20 metres tall, blending traditional Portuguese and Chinese elements, and incorporating a new technique that includes the use of inflatables, as well as the introduction of LEDs. It’s composed by a soft-coloured patchwork of various textiles and ornaments, as well as artisanal techniques combined with industrial and technological elements that embraced the aquarium through elongated tentacles which 澳门精华 | 2019年 8月- 9月 | 37

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于“Tetris”系列座地艺术品：“Chiado”、“Alfama” 和 “Mouraria”——这些作品以里斯本三个主要历史街区的名字命名，其表面以葡萄牙的手工瓷砖覆盖，瓷砖的主题和图案呼应着天幕广场的葡式风格墙身。客人可坐在这三件作品上，从三个不同角度欣赏及思考整个展览，融入成为展览的一部分。最重要的是，我的理念是要创作一件能融合周边环境的艺术装置，将整个空间顷刻转化为一个既接地气也超凡脱俗的氛围。我尝试在这个空间内创造一种新的现实和新的动态，让人们从另一个角度思考澳门的历史。它跟天幕广场所营造出的动感氛围完全不同。为装饰起见，天幕广场这个空间已营造出一片里斯本风情。而这件庞大的艺术品则为这个空间带来新的诠释，特意彰显葡萄牙和中国文化的细节。多个世纪以来，中国和葡萄牙两种非常不同的文化在这里相遇并创造出一种全新的 38 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

burst from its main body, reaching across to the other three floor works that belong to the Tetris series: Chiado, Alfama and Mouraria. Clad in Portuguese handmade tiles with themes and motifs that dialogue with the Grande Praça’s Portuguese-inspired façades, these works – whose titles are a reference to Lisbon’s main historic neighbourhoods – let guests sit and contemplate the exhibition from three different perspectives, welcoming them to become part of the work. Above all, the idea was to create an installation that would merge with its surroundings, transforming the space into an atmosphere that is at once earthly and transcendental. I tried to create a new reality and a new dynamic for the space, so that people would think of Macau’s history from another angle. This is completely different from the dynamic generated by the

Grande Praça. For decorative purposes, the space has created a Lisbon ambience. But this very bulky artwork gave a new interpretation to the space that amplifies the details of Portuguese and Chinese culture. For many centuries, China and Portugal, two very different cultures, met here and created a new culture, the Macanese. This new culture drank a lot from these two countries, and a unique identity emerged. Through my work, I hope the audience understood my own way of seeing this historic union of China and Portugal: on the one hand I am a Portuguese person chasing my family history here. It is personal. On the other, I am an international artist trying to explore Macau’s identity in an international, political context. Portuguese and Chinese history is now in a new chapter for the two cultures to meet again here and create new ideas for the city.

Essential ART

文化——澳门土生葡人文化。这种新文化追本溯源，吸取了中葡两国的很多文化精华，从而产生了独有的身份。通过我的作品，我希望观众能理解我个人看待中国和葡萄牙这种历史性交汇的方式：一方面我是一名在这里找寻家族历史的葡萄牙人，这是个人的一面；另一方面，我是一名试图透过国际政治脉络上探索澳门的身份地位的国际艺术家。如今，葡萄牙和中国的历史已掀开新篇章，中葡文化在澳门再次相融，并为澳门带来新的灵感。后来是如何与美高梅进一步合作参加第 58 届威尼斯双年展的？ “你在隐藏什么？希望你找到你所追寻的 ”这个展览标志着我们关系的延续，将澳门、中国大陆与葡萄牙之间的文化联系带到欧洲；而这一次，是带到了当代艺术的主舞台——著名的威尼斯双年展。此外，这就像是我们延续着丝绸之路的循环，因为威尼斯也是主要的通商点之一。这次展览由 Nina Moaddel 策展，地点位于威尼斯圣克莱门特岛，展品分布在皇宫凯宾斯基酒店的花园中和圣克莱门特教堂里。展品包括《Madragoa》(2015-2019)、《I’ll be Your Mirror #1》(2019)（我会成为你的镜子#1）和《Betty Boop [PA]》(2019)（贝蒂娃娃）。其中《Madragoa》展于教堂内，由 Viúva Lamego 瓷砖店艺匠手绘的瓷砖制成，展品顶部悬挂着一个大型的由红色织物做成的心形；这件展品也曾是 2015 年在澳门美高梅《八面灵龙》展览上的一部分。

可以进一步说说《I’ll Be Your Mirror》（《我会成为你的镜子》）吗？《我会成为你的镜子》(2018)是我多年来一直在做的一些作品和概念结出的成果，例如用镜子作为基础元素的《Spot Me》(《认出自己》，1999)系列或《Crochet Painting》(《钩针编织画》)系列。“认出自己”是关于葡萄牙的独裁政权，在那段时期，资讯需要被审查，人们也一直受到监视，导致无法全面地看清自己。在《钩针编织画》系列中，我将镜子的一部分覆盖起来，让人们因被装饰织物阻挡而无法在镜子中看到完整的自己。创作意念是要提出，无论是社会还是个人都有必要进行反省和“放下面具”，才能找到真正的自己。《我会成为你的镜子》将这个意念的表达推向高潮：这件展品是一个五米高的威尼斯风格面具，由 251 块铜框双面镜组成。你想通过这件作品表达什么信息？《我会成为你的镜子》是为在葡国毕尔巴鄂古根海姆美术馆举办的展览而构思的，因为那标志着我艺术生涯的一个转折点。这个展览是我 20 多年创作的一次回顾，而这件作品由于具有反思和反省的性质，因此选择在该展览中首次展示它也就顺理成章。我旨在同时挑战自己和观众脱下我们经常作为掩护而戴着的面具，从而展现真实的自我。传统意义而言，戴面具是为了修饰，但也是掩饰，而现在这个由镜子组成的面具也驱使我们反观自己——但不是完整的自己，而是分割开的多面目的自我。所以，最终我是在映照出当中哪些个性呢？ 쐽

How did the collaboration with MGM continue for the 58th Venice Biennale? The exhibition What are you hiding from? May you find what you’re looking for marks the continuation of this relationship, bringing the cultural relations between Macau, China and Portugal to Europe – and, in this case, to the main stage of Contemporary Art that is the iconic Venice Biennale. Moreover, it’s almost like we’re continuing the cycle of the Silk Road, as Venice was also one of the main points of trade. Curated by Nina Moaddel and set on Isola di San Clemente, across the Palace Kempinski gardens and in the San Clemente church, the exhibition is composed by Madragoa (20152019), I’ll be Your Mirror #1 (2019) and Betty Boop [PA] (2019). Madragoa, set in the church and made-up of Viúva Lamego hand-painted tiles topped by a large, red-textile, hanging heart, was part of the exhibition of Valkyrie Octopus, at MGM Macau in 2015. Can you tell us more about I’ll Be Your Mirror? I’ll Be Your Mirror (2018) is a result of works and concepts that I’ve been working on for many years, such as Spot Me (1999) or the Crochet Painting series that have mirrors as a base. Spot Me relates to the Portuguese dictatorship, during which information was censored and people were constantly under surveillance, thus becoming unable to look at themselves as a whole. In the Crochet Painting series, I cover part of the mirrors, making it impossible for people to see their whole reflection because of the fabric decoration. This line of thought relates to a societal and individual necessity for introspection and having to “drop the mask”, so that you can find your true self. I’ll Be Your Mirror serves as a climax of this idea: it’s a five-metre tall Venetian mask, composed of 251 double-sided bronze frames and mirrors. What kind of message do you want to tell through this artwork? I’ll Be Your Mirror was specially thought for the exhibition at Guggenheim Museum of Bilbao as it marks a turning point in my career. This show is an overview of over 20 years of production, and it made sense to first present this work on this occasion, due to its reflective and introspective nature. My goal was to challenge both myself and visitors to take off the masks we usually wear as a way of protection, and to reveal our true selves. Traditionally, a mask is worn to embellish but also to hide, but this one, composed of mirrors, also makes us look at ourselves – not as a whole, but segmented and multiplied. So, which of these personalities am I reflecting? 쐽 澳门精华 | 2019年 8月- 9月 | 39

红色激情 Red Passion 史上全球最快的法拉利跑车 SF90 Stradale 全新登场，请排队轮候！ The new SF90 Stradale is the world’s fastest production Ferrari in history. Please form an orderly queue 文/by GUILHERME MARQUES

40 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

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千匹马力。法拉利公司以全新的 SF90 Stradale 实现了这个梦幻般的数字，借此向旗下的史卡得利亚法拉利车队周年庆献礼。 1929 年， “赛车之父 ”恩佐 ·安塞姆 ·法拉利在管理 “阿尔法 ·罗密欧 ”赛车部门期间，创建了全球著名的法拉利车队。意大利语 Stradale 的中文是 “公路版 ”，这名字不言而喻：如果今年法拉利的一级方程

式赛车名为 SF90，那么 SF90 Stradale 就是你将运用同等技术的战马开上公路的最佳机会。 SF90 Stradale 是法拉利有史以来最强悍和最先进的公路车，也是历来加速最快的 “跃马”。不仅如此，这还是法拉利首款插电式混合动力车型——在如今瞬息万变的市场中，实属法拉利辉煌的发展之路上一个崭新里程碑。 “跃马 ”车都会限产，例如辣法

ne thousand horsepower. Ferrari has reached the magical number with the new SF90 Stradale, a birthday present from the company to its racing department. The world famous Scuderia Ferrari, was conceived by the "Old Man" himself, Enzo Anselmo Ferrari, in 1929, when he was managing Alfa Romeo’s competition efforts. 澳门精华 | 2019年 8月- 9月 | 41

Essential CAR

(LaFerrari)全球限产 499 辆。然而，这次只要工厂产能有多少，就会有多少辆 SF90——但考虑到网上已有关于售罄的流言，估计 SF90 最终还是会热销断货。 SF90 的重点配置是搭载了 21 世纪获奖最多的引擎 — — 法拉利 F154 V8 双涡轮增压引擎，而且排量从惯常的 3902cc 提升至 3990cc，同时配置狭窄型气缸盖以及全新的进排气和燃烧系统。仅仅这些已让 SF90 输出 780 马力。双涡轮增压器安装在引擎室较低的位置，飞轮更小，且排气管采用极度轻盈和抗热的科耐尔合金(Inconel)。除此以外，SF90 的三个电动机 — — 两个位于前轴，第三个安装在车辆尾部，位于引擎与变速箱之间，有效实现四轮驱动，并提供额外 220 匹马力，使整辆车的全部马力达到 1,000 匹。在纯电动驾驶下，SF90 能以最高时速 135 公里飞驰长达 25 公里。法拉利工程师还研发了全新 8 速双离合变速箱，不仅比 7 速版本的重量更轻，速度更加快 30%，还能在法拉利所谓的 “正常驾驶 ” 模式下将省油率提高最多 8%— — 尽管这在你脚踏 1,000 马力的车时不会有明显感觉； 42 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Stradale is the Italian word for ‘road-going version’, which makes the name kind of selfexplanatory: if this year’s Formula 1 car is called the SF90, then this is the closest anyone will get to driving the same technology on the road. The SF90 Stradale is the most powerful and most advanced road car Ferrari has ever produced. As a result, it is also the fastest accelerating Prancing Horse in history. At a time when the market is changing at an overwhelming pace, this new milestone in the brand’s illustrious path is also the first series production Ferrari to feature plug-in hybrid technology. Unlike, say, the LaFerrari, which was limited to 499 units worldwide, the SF90 is limited only by the factory’s capacity to produce them – but taking into account that rumours are already circling the Internet that it is sold out, it will definitely be another unobtainium-grade Cavallino. At the heart of the SF90 lies the most prizewinning engine of the 21st Century, Ferrari’s F154 V8 twin-turbocharged, bored out from its

usual 3902cc to 3990cc and engineered with narrow cylinder heads, a new intake, exhaust and combustion system. It alone generates 780 horse power. The turbochargers are mounted lower in the engine bay, the flywheel is smaller and the exhaust is built out of Inconel, a special alloy developed to be extremely light and heat-resistant. The combined 1000 horsepower is achieved via the extra 220 ponies provided by a trio of electric motors – two at the front and one at the rear between the engine and the gearbox. This makes the car actually a four-wheel drive. In pure electric mode, the SF90 can travel up to 25 km at speeds up to 135 km/h. The Italian engineers have developed a new eight-speed double-clutch gearbox. Lighter and 30% faster than the outgoing seven-speed, it also promises an increase in fuel economy by up to 8% in what Ferrari calls ‘normal driving’. What this means is less obvious in a car with 1000 horsepower under your right foot. No matter: it allows the Stradale to reach 100km/h

Essential CAR 但不论如何，Stradale 因此实现了难以置信的加速瞬间：仅需 2.5 秒即加速至时速 100 公里，仅需 6.7 秒便加速到时速 200 公里。在法拉利的菲奥拉诺试车道上跑一圈后，Stradale 抛离“辣法”64 米！可知道就在五年前，150 万欧元的“辣法”似乎已成为至少在十年内无法被超越的标杆。如今，售价只需一半的 Stradale 已创下更快速度。在意大利马拉内罗城的发布会上，在迎接 2,000 名手持独家邀请函的潜在买家时，设计总监弗拉维奥 ·曼佐尼表示研发 Stradale 是个“又长又复杂”的过程。法拉利的设计语汇是其品牌（或甚至是整个汽车行业）最具标志的元素之一，而要在秉承这种传统与融合最先进和最高效的空气动力设计上达到完美平衡，是曼佐尼曾遇过的最大挑战之一。结果，集时代特色与高超技术于一身的绝美超跑成功诞生，而其依然能反映出法拉利的传统：热情、激情、速度。为照顾不同需求，Stradale 提供两种车体选择：标准版和 “Assetto Fiorano”加强版，后者旨在提供更优化的车速同时极致发挥车辆的每一寸性能。加强版增配一个更高的后扰流板以增强下压力，而车的内饰更加精简，且在装饰部位采用定制的碳纤维制作。全车比标准版轻 30 千克，售价增加 70,000 欧元。相较标准版的倍耐力 P Zero 轮胎，加强版配置含定制化合物的米其林 Cup 2 轮胎。全新的内饰与外观一样惊艳，充满科幻感的仪表板采用 16 英寸曲面数字集群组成全新界面，用于控制所有汽车功能和信息娱乐系统 — — 而其中 80%的功能可通过驾驶盘控制，因为“眼不离路，手不离盘”是法拉利一如既往的安全箴言。法拉利依然是汽车领域最勾魂的名字，而 SF90 Stradale 又会是一辆吸睛之车，不仅将填充百万人的想象，也将进驻那些少数幸运车主的车房（据法拉利表示，他们至少已拥有一辆其他的 “跃马 ”车）。随着世界的不断进步，技术变得越来越重要，汽车也很可能需要显著变革才能跟上时代的脚步。而法拉利的做法永远合时：拿出激情，再增添与时俱进的一切，最后涂上红色。 쐽

in a mind-blowing 2.5 seconds and 200km/h in a barely believable 6.7 seconds. Around Ferrari’s Fiorano test track, it beats the LaFerrari by a mesmerizing 64 metres when competing a full lap of the circuit. Just five years ago, the €1.5M LaFerrari seemed like the benchmark for at least a decade. Now, a car that costs half is already faster. At the launch in Maranello, attended by 2000 potential buyers with a very exclusive invitation in hand, Design Director Flavio Manzoni confessed this was a ‘long and complex’ job. Ferrari’s design language is one of the most iconic elements of the brand – dare we say the whole car industry? And finding a perfect balance between that heritage and the need to incorporate the most advanced and efficient

aerodynamics was one of the greatest challenges Manzoni has ever faced. The result is truly spectacular: a beauty that exudes modernity and technology, but still transpires what Ferrari has always embodied: emotion, passion and speed. Two body styles are available, depending on what the customer wants from the car: the standard one and the Assetto Fiorano package, which was created to offer better track pace and to extract every little ounce of performance from the car. It features a taller rear spoiler for increased downforce, a more stripped-out interior and bespoke carbon fibre detailing. It weighs 30kg less and costs €70.000 more. It also comes with Michelin Cup 2 tyres featuring a bespoke compound instead of the Pirelli P Zero tyres of the standard car. The new interior is just as striking as the exterior, with a futuristic looking dashboard, a completely new interface housed in a 16 inch curved digital cluster that controls all the car functions and infotainment. 80% of those functions can also be controlled via the steering wheel, as Ferrari is adamant ‘eyes on the road, hands on the wheel’ is a key safety motivation for the team. Ferrari is still the most evocative name in the automotive business and the SF90 Stradale is another poster car that will fill the imagination of millions and the garage space of the few lucky owners who, according to Ferrari, own at least one other Prancing Horse. As the world progresses and technology becomes ever more important, cars are likely to have to dramatically change in order to remain relevant. Ferrari has always had the right recipe for that: take passion, add whatever makes sense at the time and paint it red. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2019年 8月- 9月 | 43

Essential CAR

追寻刺激 Thrill Seekers 保时捷赛车部门最新的两款开篷跑车已在英国古德伍德速度节 (Goodwood Festival of Speed)亮相。请到附近经销商排队轮候 The latest Porsche Motorsport duo was unveiled at the Goodwood Festival of Speed. Please form an orderly queue at the nearest dealer 文/by GUILHERME MARQUES

Essential CAR

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不考虑今年底将推出的电动车型 “Taycan”之下，保时捷的跑车家族现已非常特别。一方面，现已有更“标准”的车款 — — 虽然 “保时捷 ”与 “标准 ”两个词是风马牛不相及（即使入门级的 Cayman 718 仍让人震惊）；另一方面，保时捷赛车部门推出了与赛车一同研发的开篷跑车。保时捷开篷跑车一般带有 GT 徽号，位列世界上最受觊觎的跑车队列。不论是 GT2、 GT3 或 GT4，对任何以爱车为荣的人士都不会陌生。而保时捷赛车部门也不会忘记偶尔研发一些更惊人的车型，例如 2002 年让人倾心难忘的 Carrera GT，或 2013 年那台充满未来感的 918 Spyder。

今年初，保时捷推出史上首款开篷 GT 车型 — — 911 Speedster，本质上就是开篷的 GT3。限产 1948 辆，毫无悬念地在发售当日即告售罄。保时捷赛车部门活力非凡。而安德列亚斯 ·普罗伊宁格 — — 这位在过去 20 年来保时捷所有车型背后的灵魂人物，在 7 月初的古德伍德速度节上呈献他最新的两件作品。全新的 718 Cayman GT4 和 718 Spyder 绝对是车迷加入保时捷赛车世界的入门车型，而设计它们的初衷并不旨在成为最快圈速的赛车，而是要提供最佳的驾驶体验。轻盈小巧、极度敏捷，保时捷这两位最年轻的家族成员与更强势和稳重的 911 一样扣人心弦。

ntil the arrival of the electric Taycan more towards the end of the year, the models featured in the Porsche catalogue are very distinct. On the one hand, there are the more "standard" versions, although in truth, the words "Porsche" and "standard" are not even remotely synonymous, (even the entry point 718 Cayman is a stunning automobile). On the other hand, there are the models produced by the Porsche Motorsport department, which are developed alongside brand’s racing cars. The latter typically bear the GT insignia and are some of the most coveted automobiles on the planet: GT2, GT3 or GT4 are initials that

两款新车分别基于 718 Cayman 和 718 Boxster，在作出重大修改的同时，在机械上则基本无异。唯一的不同在于车身骨架：GT4 是纤细版的 GT3，而 Spyder 是纤细版的 Speedster。为保留只有 GT2 才用增压技术的传统，保时捷这次使用新的自然吸气六缸引擎，配备 4 升容量；有趣的是，这是基于 911 Carrera 的 3 升涡轮而研发，但却在提升 1000cc 的同时撇除涡轮增压的做法。最终，新车能在 5000-6800 转速时输出 420 匹马力和 420 牛米；而从 0 加速至时速 100 公里只需 4.4 秒，最高时速超过 300 公里，确实让人叹为观止。引擎的最高转速达到每分钟 8000 转，而且，对于仍然在意引擎声音的人或者是觉得缺少燃油引擎的车就像失去灵魂者，引擎的声音将会完全满足这些车迷的期待。新车使用 6 速手动变速箱驱动后轮，这似乎是目前的唯一选择。自动 PDK 变速箱只会在顾客有浓厚兴趣后才会在 2020 年首发。根据目前情况看，保时捷预计按时首发的可能性很大。新车底盘通过改良设计，务求提供最高级的赛车驾驶体验，在拐弯时表现尤其出色，使两款车纷纷成为展现车技的最佳选择。这也得益于保时捷大量的专用系统，尤 46 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

are familiar to any self-respecting automobile aficionado. Then, from time to time, Porsche Motorsport remembers to produce something even more extraordinary. In 2002, it was the unforgettable Carrera GT and in 2013, the futuristic 918 Spyder. At the beginning of this year, the Stuttgart based company launched the very first convertible GT model, the 911 Speedster, essentially a convertible GT3. They only produced 1948 units, and rather predictably sold out on the day of the launch. The Porsche Motorsport department’s dynamic is fantastic and Andreas Preuninger, the genius behind all of the models launched during the last two decades, presented his two most recent offspring at the Goodwood Festival of Speed at the beginning of July. The new 718 Cayman GT4 and 718 Spyder are the gateway into the marvellous world of Porsche Motorsport and were designed to not offer the fastest laps around the circuit, but the best driving experience imaginable. Small, light and extremely agile, the youngest members of the Porsche Motorsport family are as enthralling as the more potent and sober 911.

Based on the 718 Cayman and the 718 Boxster, the new German darlings were subject to some radical changes and are mechanically identical. The only differences are in the bodyshell: the GT4, as the name indicates, is a junior GT3 and the Spyder is a junior Speedster. In order to respect the tradition of only the GT2 being turbocharged, Porsche used a new naturally aspirated six-cylinder block, with a 4-litre capacity, curiously based on the 3-litre turbo of the 911 Carrera, but increased by 1000cc and dropping the forced induction. The result is 420 horsepower and 420 Nm between 5000 and 6800 revs per minute and a performance that will leave you awestruck: 0-100km/h in 4.4 seconds and more than 300km/h maximum speed. Taken into the red line, at 8.000 rpm, the sound of the engine will undoubtedly conquer the imagination of those for whom these types of things still matter, and for whom an automobile without a combustion engine is an automobile without a soul. Directing the power to the rear, there is a 6-speed manual transmission which is, for the time being, the only available option. The automatic PDK will only début in 2020 if

Essential CAR

其不容错过的是：保时捷主动悬架管理系统 (PASM)、保时捷稳定管理系统 (PSM)和保时捷扭矩矢量控制系统 (PTV)。其中 PTV 为后轮驱动带来的阻力使其始终能在任何时刻提供更多牵引力。保时捷的刹车系统领先世界，特别是保时捷陶瓷复合刹车系统 (PCCB)— — 由碳复合材料制成，能强力抵抗制动衰减，极其抗热，因此在剧烈刹车的情况下仍保持出色表现。安德列亚斯 ·普罗伊宁格强调两款新车的每个缸排都配备颗粒物过滤器，这意味着它们在未来数十年都能达到最新的尾气排放标准，保证了更长久的驾车体验。与过往车型不同，保时捷这次会在三个“车型年份”生产这两款新车：分别是 2019 (MY2019)、 2020 (MY2020)和 2021 (MY2021)，产量的增加意味着每位有心购买者都可开一辆回家而梦想成真。保时捷赛车部门不仅爱车，有竞争精神，也享受纯粹的驾驶乐趣，这意味着其车型注定不凡。保时捷在全世界都拥有大量忠实的车迷，每一款新车都始终让人惊叹。同样能人所不能的是，在如今不断发展的社会和汽车业中，保时捷始终知道如何保持与时俱进。쐽

clients demonstrate significant interest, which Porsche expects will be the case. The chassis, fine-tuned for a race car driving experience, behaves exceptionally well on corners, utilizing a plethora of dedicated programs that place the GT4 and the Spyder at the top of the pyramid of the so-called "pure driver's cars." Amongst them, several are particularly noteworthy: the Porsche Active Suspension Management (PASM), the stabilizing Porsche Stability Management (PSM), and the Porsche Torque Vectoring (PTV), which manages the rear differential in such a way that it always offers more traction at any given moment. Porsche brakes are among the best in the world and even more so if you opt for the Porsche Ceramic Composite Brakes (PCCB) which, as the name indicates, are made with a carbon composite and offer superior fade resistance as well as resistance to extreme temperatures, thereby offering exceptional performance even under extreme driving conditions.

Andreas Preuninger insisted that his new "offspring" have a particle filter for each cylinder bank, which will enable the GT4 and Spyder to comply with the latest emission regulations for several decades and thereby ensure that they remain relevant much longer. Unlike previous generations, this time Porsche will produce these models during three model years: 2019 (MY2019), 2020 (MY2020) and 2021 (MY2021). As such, more units will be produced to ensure that everyone who would like to have one sitting in their garage will be able to fulfil their desire. Made by people who love automobiles, who have a competitive spirit and who love the pure pleasure of driving, the Porsche Motorsport models are extraordinary achievements. They have a legion of fans all over the world who carry the torch for a brand that continues to astonish with every new model it launches and that will know, like no other, how to ensure the automobile stays current in a constantly evolving society and industry. 쐽

澳门精华 | 2019年 8月- 9月 | 47

Essential BOOKS

书籍的艺术 The art of the book 在数字媒体日益普及，有些人甚至预见纸本消亡的时候，出版商 Assouline 成功地反击了这一潜在趋势，并向世人表明，书籍的未来会使纸质书变得特别 At a time when digital media is gaining increasingly more ground, with some even foreseeing the death of paper, the publisher Assouline counters this underlying trend successfully and shows that the future of the book makes it special 文/by CÁTIA MATOS

ssouline出版公司已迈进第 25周年。 Assouline由 Prosper和 Martine Assouline夫妇创立于巴黎，一切始于一项他们称之为 “爱的举动 ”——为位于南法圣保罗 ·德 ·旺丝的 La Colombe D'Or酒店出书，仅仅是因为他们喜爱这家酒店及其所代表的东西。不久之后，这对夫妇将这种热情更进一步，化为事业。 1995 年，一系列设计师书籍的出版，开启了 Assouline 的历程。这些书聚焦过去和现在的伟大设计师的，包括阿瑟丁 ·阿拉亚 (Azzedine Alaia)、Chanel 香奈儿和 Dior 迪奥。 Memoire 回忆系列取得了巨大的成功，甚至被翻译成 12 种不同的语言在全球销售，售出 48 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

数百万本，Assouline 出版社于是顺势成立。 Prosper 和 Martine 在巴黎以外开设了第一家办事处，并在纽约开设营业点，目标是使 Assouline 业务走向国际。今天，拥有一本带有 Assouline 特有的红蜡印章的书标志着对这个生活品牌的认可。事实是，Assouline 本身就是一个品牌，每年推出 50 到 60 本书，总共已发布超过 1,500 种出版物，划分为六个不同的系列：终极，传奇，经典，偶像，鉴赏和回忆 (Ultimate, Legends, Classics, Icons, Connoisseur and Memoire)。出版社延续其手工制书的传统，只制作少量书籍，努力对抗出版界的工业化趋势，将其咖啡桌书籍变成真正的艺术品。最忠实于这一概念

he publisher Assouline has existed for just 25 years. It was founded by the couple Prosper and Martine Assouline in Paris, and began with what they still describe as an act of love – the publication of a book about the La Colombe D’Or hotel, located in Saint Paul de Vence, simply because they admired it and what it represented. It wasn’t long before the couple took their passion more seriously. In 1995, a collection of books about great designers of the past and present, such as Azzedine Alaïa, Chanel and Dior, marked the beginning of the Assouline story. The Memoire collection became a huge success, and was even translated

Essential BOOKS

的系列是 Ultimate 终极系列，该系列是对造书艺术的真正致敬。Assouline 的书使用传统的装订技术，所有系列都是限量版。对于真正的雪茄迷来说，《不可能的雪茄系列》是 Assouline 就该类型发布的最新书。为了巩固品牌，Assouline 夫妇也一直关注自身定位以及出版内容。他们每天收到数百份出版提案，其中许多提案因不适合 Assouline 的出版路线而被拒绝。他们相信自己的选择是自然为之。 Assouline 在包括纽约、首尔和日内瓦在内的多个城市拥有 25 家直营店，此外还在全球各地精心挑选了一些代销专柜。2014 年，创办人 Prosper 和 Martine Assouline 特地选在伦敦市中心 Piccadilly 皮卡迪里街开设全球首间旗舰店 Maison Assouline，进一步巩固了他们的梦想。旗舰店是当代图书馆模式，完美地体现了品牌的精髓。据 Assouline 夫妇透露，这个空间是他们的家的延伸，位于一座前身为银行 50 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

into 12 different languages to be sold worldwide. Millions of copies were sold, allowing the foundation of the publishing company. Prosper and Martine opened their first office outside of Paris and set up in New York. The aim was the internationalisation of their business.

Today, a seal of approval of a lifestyle brand includes having a book bearing the publisher’s stamp. The truth is that Assouline is itself a brand, launching 50 to 60 books a year and totalling more than 1,500 publications, divided into six different collections – Ultimate, Legends, Classics, Icons, Connoisseur and Memoire. The publisher continues the tradition of manual production, producing books in small numbers, trying to counter the industrialisation trend of the field and turning its coffee table books into true works of art. The collection most loyal to that concept is the Ultimate collection, a true tribute to the art of bookmaking. Using traditional bookbinding techniques, all the collections are limited editions. “The Impossible Collection of Cigars", for the true cigar aficionados, is the latest release in this series.

Essential BOOKS

的历史建筑内，为 1922 年由英国建筑师之父 Edwin Lutyens 爵士设计，它巩固了 Assouline 作为奢侈文化品牌的地位。除了书籍，Maison Assouline 还为访客提供各类文化产品，包括 Prosper 和 Martine 夫妇在旅行期间购买的一些物品。去年，中东迪拜迎来了第二家 Maison Assouline，开设于 Dubai Mall.迪拜购物中心。然而，Assouline 提供的远不止于书籍。今天，这家出版社也进军出版相关领域，例如图书馆配饰的蜡烛或家具系列——其中一些产品是与其他著名品牌合作的成果。品牌还提供图书馆咨询服务。但是，虽然 Assouline 已经拓展其起家产品 — — 出版品以外的业务，但 Prosper 和 Martine 不忘初心，总专注于真正重要的项目：出版书籍。正如他们在无数场合提到的那样，涉足其他领域是件自然而然地发生的事情，因为它们与感动他们的世界直接相关，而且使他们每天都坠入爱河。 쐽

To consolidate the brand, the couple has also been concerned with being coherent about who they are and what they publish. They receive hundreds of proposals every day, many of which are refused for not fitting in with the brand’s publishing line. The selection, they ensure, is done naturally. With 25 of its own stores in several cities, including New York, Seoul and Geneva, the publisher also has some carefully selected sales points spread across the globe. However, the consolidation of its founders’ dream happened in 2014, with the opening of the first Maison Assouline in the centre of London’s Piccadilly. A kind of contemporary library, it reflects the essence of the brand to perfection. The space, which the couple describes as an extension of their own home, is inside a historic building, previously a bank, designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens

in 1922, and which reinforces its position as a luxury brand focused on culture. Besides books, it offers visitors a variety of products, including some objects bought on Prosper and Martine’s travels. Last year, Dubai saw the opening of the second Maison Assouline, in Dubai Mall. But Assouline didn’t stop at the books. Today, the publisher also works in parallel areas, as is the case of the library accessories – some of them the result of collaborations with other prominent houses –, the candles or the furniture line. There is also the library consultancy service. But although it has expanded beyond its genesis, Prosper and Martine have never lost focus on what truly matters – making books. As they have mentioned on countless occasions, their entry into other fields happens naturally, as they are directly linked to the world that moves them and which keeps them falling in love every day. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2019年 8月- 9月 | 51

Essential DESIGN

乌托邦长存 The utopia endures 包豪斯学校虽然只在两次世界大战之间存在了很短的岁月，但它的影响依然完全地延续至今。2019 年，恰好是它的百年诞辰 Despite its short lifespan between the two Great Wars, the influence of Bauhaus continues intact to the present day. In 2019, it is celebrating the centennial of its founding 文/by ÁLVARO TAVARES RAMOS

包

豪斯是艺术和设计界标志性的学校，但它的办学生涯却是多么动荡。在 1919 至 1933 年仅仅 14 年的校史中，包豪斯便经历了国内骚动、政治压力以及在魏玛、德绍和柏林的三次迁校。面对第一次世界大战后的纷乱环境，包豪斯学校及其支持者联合起来，为了一个愿景而努力：改变日常生活的方方方面，从而创造一个新社会。对于战后一片狼藉的德国，加上 1918 年康边停战协定对德国的遏制，这似乎是一项无法实现的空想。为了与过去划清界线，包豪斯摒弃了当时盛行的装饰风格和经典元素，而选择运用几何和抽象线条的全新美学，同时去除一切不必要的修饰。包豪斯学校由瓦尔特 ·格罗皮乌斯在德国魏玛市创立，宗旨是培养新型的设计师，教学内容包括手工艺和艺术基础、色彩知识、人的心理因素、人体工学和技术。认为创作/

Walter Gropius 52 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

he trajectory of Bauhaus, the iconic school of art and design, could not have been more turbulent. Throughout the 14 years of its existence, between 1919 and 1933, the school underwent internal convulsions, political pressures and diverse incarnations in Weimar, Dessau and Berlin. As a response to the tumultuous post World War I era, the school and its members were united in one vision: to transform each facet of daily life in order to create a new society, something which seemed unattainable for a Germany in ruins and strong-armed by the 1918 Armistice. Hoping to make a clean break with the past, Bauhaus abandoned the decorative style and classic references that predominated at the time and embraced a radical new aesthetic with geometric and abstract lines and stripped of all superfluous adornments. Founded in Weimar by Walter Gropius, Bauhaus had the mission of educating a new

澳门精华 | 2019年 8月- 9月 | 53

Essential DESIGN

Frankfurt kitchen

制造是件重要的社会性和知识性大事的格罗皮乌斯，希望消除手艺人与艺术家的界线，从而消除包豪斯支持者在创造过程中存在的社会地位差异。包豪斯学校放弃当时占主导的纯理论教育方法，其多元的教育理念以务实地开发培育学生的个人禀赋为中心，不论他们的学术背景、性别和国籍如何，都有教无类。包豪斯学校尽管最初与工艺美术运动（由英国设计师、企业家和学者威廉 ·莫里斯推动，旨在应对工业化对美学造成的破坏）有关，但后来却主要追求实用性，向大规模生产的理想靠近。包豪斯学校就像是业界的实验室，同时作为先驱证明了技术也能够改善普通人的生活。包豪斯学校的这些特质在约瑟夫 ·亚伯斯和拉兹洛 ·莫霍利 -纳吉加入后更得到了进一步强化。然而，直到迁校至德绍市之后（与此同时，在 1924 年的选举中，魏玛市落在了一个极右政党的手中，而该党大幅削减了对包豪斯的拨款），包豪斯学校才能稳定地开发工业产品并奠定它卓绝的创意地位。包豪斯的一些经典设计都是在这时期诞生，例如威廉 ·华根菲尔德的灯、玛丽安·布兰德采用几何元素的烟灰缸等。在这时期，包豪斯的教学方法也有改变，逐渐放弃艺术元素，而更青睐侧重工业设计的课程。这一点在格罗皮乌斯放弃校长一职而由瑞士建筑师汉斯 ·梅耶接任后变得更加显著。梅耶此前是包豪斯学校在 1927 年开办的 54 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

type of designer, teaching artisanal and artistic fundamentals, as well as knowledge of colour, the human psyche, ergonomics and technology. Taking on "production" as an important social and intellectual plan, Gropius hoped to bypass the division between artisan and artist, thus eliminating the social differences amongst Bauhaus members through their creative work.

Marianne Brandt - Coffee and tea service

Instead of a predominantly theoretical pedagogical methodology, the school based its pluralist educational concept on the practical development of the natural talents of its students, independently of their academic background, sex or nationality. Despite its initial connection to the Arts & Crafts movement (which had been propelled by the designer, entrepreneur and British intellectual William Morris, as a response to the damage caused by industrialization), Bauhaus pragmatically positioned itself close to the ideals of mass production, presenting itself as a "laboratory" for industry and as a precursor of the idea that technology could improve the life of everyday people. This was further reinforced with the arrival of Josef Albers and László Moholy-Nagy. However, it would only be after the school settled in the city of Dessau (in the meantime, during the 1924 elections, Weimar had fallen into the hands of an extreme right political party which had significantly slashed funding for the educational institution), that Bauhaus would be able to consolidate its path towards the development of industrial products and solidify its renowned creative identity. It was during this time period that some of its classic designs came to life, for example, the Wilhelm Wagenfeld lamp, or Marianne Brandt's geometric ashtray. The teaching methodology was also altered, leaving the artistic component behind, in favour of courses more oriented towards industrial design. This idea was even further reinforced after Gropius abandoned his role as director and it was taken over by the Swiss architect Hannes Meyer, former professor of the architecture course, created in 1927. Meyer believed that form should follow function and cost so that the products would be practical and accessible for the working class. In this way, he tried to introduce new subject areas to the school curriculum, courses such as economy, sociology, biology and Marxism. He also put an end to the theatre

Essential DESIGN

澳门精华 | 2019年 8月- 9月 | 55

Essential DESIGN

Ludwig Mies van der Rohe

建筑课程的教授。他认为作品的形态应该跟随功能和成本而定，这样的产品才实用且适合工人阶级。就这样，他试着把一些新科目加入学校课程中，包括经济学、社会学、生物学和马克思主义课程。他也停办了戏剧课程，并重组了所有不同的工作坊，以求消除过往年度的超支情况。然而，由于他的共产主义理想和挪用资金去协助罢工的矿工，德绍市当局最终罢免了他的校长职位。随后建筑师路德维希 ·密斯 ·凡德罗担任校长（他之前曾拒绝担任包豪斯校长，此次上任是为了去掉该校的政治色彩并力挽它于狂澜）。凡德罗对包豪斯学校作出显著变革，包括将学校转变为以建筑学为主，并且疏远亲近梅耶的所有包豪斯马克思主义者。后来，民族社会主义党（即纳粹党）执掌了德绍市，并力促包豪斯学校在 1932 年的关闭。凡德罗孤注一掷地在柏林重开包豪斯，虽然这次是以私立学校形式，但不幸还是不太成功，原因是包豪斯学校曾经是颠覆活动和共产主义的肥沃温床，从而导致盖世太保们在一年之后彻底关停了包豪斯。大多数包豪斯大师们最终为了逃避第二次世界大战的恐怖活动和纳粹德国的迫害而移居美国。格罗皮乌斯、凡德罗、马塞尔 ·布劳耶、约瑟夫·亚伯斯和其他许多人在大西洋的另一方继续对建筑和设计产生影响，他们不仅参与了诸如西格拉姆大厦和惠特尼美术馆（两者都在纽约市）等地标建筑的设计，也培养了许多新一代美国建筑师。包豪斯尽管办校时间短，但对现代主义运动以及 20 世纪和 21 世纪创意的影响却是空前无双。在战后的德国，像奥芬巴赫设计学院（1953 年在乌尔姆市创立）等学校在传播当年包豪斯学校的教学理念上发挥了不可磨灭的作用。其对理性、美的纯粹和简约的追求，至今依然深刻地影响着我们的生活以及许多设计师和品牌开发产品的方式。其中最瞩目 56 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

的例子当数建筑师兼设计师迪特·拉姆斯。他在 1955 年加入博朗公司设计部时已近 90 岁，在那里他与汉斯·古格洛特（曾担任奥芬巴赫设计学院校长）研发了著名的收音机兼电唱机 Phonosuper SK4。这次合作标志着拉姆斯定位于功能性美学，其后他于 1961 年出任博朗公司设计部总监一职。作为包豪斯理念的间接继承者之一，拉姆斯研发了博朗公司的许多招牌产品，从手表到计算器到家用电器和收音机都有出自其手。后来，所有这些产品启发了 Apple（苹果公司）设计出最畅销的一些产品。的确，拉姆斯关 Vitsoe 606 shelving system

course and reorganized all the different workshops in an effort to eliminate the over-spending of previous years. However, his connection to Communist ideals and the embezzlement of funds to help striking miners would end up leading to his dismissal by the authorities of the city of Dessau. The architect Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, who had already refused to assume the leadership of the school in the past, in an effort to depoliticize and rescue the school, would end up being its director. Having made profound changes to the institution, including transforming Bauhaus into a school primarily of architecture, and keeping at a distance all the Marxist members that had been close to Meyer, van der Rohe witnessed the shift in power to the National Socialists in Dessau. This political party would be instrumental in shutting down the school in 1932. In a final act of despair, van der Rohe would reopen Bauhaus in Berlin as a private school, but alas without much success, since the institution's past as a fertile breeding ground for subversion and communism would lead the Gestapo to close its doors one year later. The majority of the great masters at Bauhaus would end up emigrating to the United States to flee the terrors of World War II and the persecution of Nazi Germany. Mies van der Rohe, Marcel Breuer, Walter Gropius and Josef Albers, among many others, would come to influence architecture and design on the other site of the Atlantic, not only with the construction of emblematic works such the Seagram Building or the Whitney Museum, both in New York city, but also by means of educating a new generation of American architects.

Essential DESIGN

于好的设计的十项原则，证明了包豪斯的理想依然存在，但只是像所有其他出色理念一样，与时俱进地加以演变、改良和适应而已。按拉姆斯所说，好的设计应该是创新的、实用的、唯美的、细致的、坦诚的、简约的、耐用的以及只产生极少废料的。所有这些理想原则，不论是格罗皮乌斯、凡德罗或布劳耶都肯定会赞成，而且也反映出威廉·莫里斯的理念：唯当我们所有人都发展出好品味之时，更好的经济、更美好的社会才会应运而生。尽管拉姆斯和他设计的产品，例如 Vitsoe 606 置物架系统，都融入了包豪斯关于“理性” 的理念，但包豪斯办学末期所推崇的大规模生产在当今这个原材料紧缺以及污染和浪费严重的世界，似乎已不适用。包豪斯在设计和建筑上追求简约和极简美感，则能呼应现在的可持续发展概念，例如尽量少生产，但产品品质要高。如今，像 Bulthaup 布尔托（以及其极简橱柜）和 E15（以及其简约升级的家具）等品牌以及迈克尔·安纳斯特赛迪斯(Michael Anastassiades)等设计师通过简约、耐用和永不过时的产品设计，肩负起延续包豪斯乌托邦的责任。这些尤关重要的企业和人才再一次消除了手艺人和艺术家之间的界线，将重点聚焦于创作过程。正如格罗皮乌斯预想的那样，他们兢兢业业地传达着 “改变日常生活的方方方面”的理念，为的是带来一个更美好的新社会。 쐽 Dieter Rams - Braun TS 45

Despite Bauhaus' short lifespan, its influence on the modernist movement and creativity in the 20th and 21st centuries is unparalleled. In post-war Germany, schools such as Hochschule für Gestaltung (founded in 1953 in the city of Ulm) played an essential role in the dissemination of the teachings of the institution founded by Gropius. The ideals of rationality, aesthetic purity and simplicity, continue to have a profound influence on the way in which we live and how many designers and brands develop their products. One of the most notorious examples of this is the architect and designer Dieter Rams. He was almost 90 years old when he joined the Braun design team in 1955, where he developed, alongside Hans Gugelot, the famous radio and phonograph Phonosuper SK4. This collaboration with Gugelot, one of the directors of the Hochschule für Gestaltung School, would mark the functional aesthetic identity of Rams, who would assume the leadership of the design department of the German brand in 1961. As one of the indirect heirs of the Bauhaus legacy, the German designer developed many of Braun's most iconic products, from watches to calculators to appliances and radios. Later, all of these products would influence Apple in the

design of some of its iconic bestsellers. Indeed, his 10 principles of good design are a testament to the fact that the Bauhaus ideals are still alive, but like all good ideas, have evolved and been refined and adapted to current times. According to Rams, good design should be innovative, useful, alluring, discrete, honest, simple, durable, and generate very little waste. All ideals that Gropius, Mies van der Rohe or Breuer would certainly stand behind and which also reflect the philosophy of William Morris: until we collectively develop good taste, we will not have a better economy and society. Despite the fact that Rams and the products he designed, such as the Vitsoe 606 shelving system, incorporate the rational philosophy of the Bauhaus movement, the idea of mass production propagated by the institution during its last years of existence, seems senseless today in a world with a scarcity of raw materials and an elevated level of pollution and wastefulness. The Bauhaus ideals of simplicity and a minimalist aesthetic in design and architecture are associated today with the concept of sustainability, of producing less, but with superior quality. Brands such as Bulthaup (and its minimalist kitchens), E15 (and its furniture with a refined simplicity), and designers such as Michael Anastassiades, among others, have taken on the responsibility of keeping the Bauhaus utopia alive through simple, timeless and enduring products. These key players have once again broken the barriers between the artisan and the artist, placing the spotlight on the creative process. Just as Gropius had envisioned, they convey, in a discrete manner, the idea that transforming every aspect of daily life can lead to a new and improved society. 쐽 Alfred Schäfter, suspension lamp, Prototype

Dieter Rams - Phonosuper SK4

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几何畅想曲 GRAPHIC STATEMENT 摄影及助理 PHOTOGRAPHY PEDRO FERREIRA ASSISTED BY ANA VIEGAS AND MATILDE PEREIRA 造型及助理 STYLING SUSANA MARQUES PINTO (WWW.PULPFASHION.PT), ASSISTED BY BEATRIZ CLEMENTE AND DANIELA GIL 化妆 MAKE-UP PATRICK VAN DER BERG FOR WWW.SKINLIFE.PT 发型及助理 HAIR ERIC RIBEIRO AND HELENA VAZ PEREIRA FOR GRIFFEHAIRSTYLE 模特 MODEL SVETA KAFAFOVA (L’AGENCE)

上衣 Top: ottod’Ame 长裤 Trousers: M Missoni 耳环 Earrings: David Rosas

T恤衫 T-shirt: 丝黛拉·麦卡妮 Stella McCartney 夹克 Jacket: Diogo Miranda

衬衫 Shirt: Diogo Miranda 半截裙 Skirt: MSGM 鞋履 Shoes: 芬迪 Sneakers: Fendi

长衫 Long-line coat: By Malene Birger 连衣裙 Dress: Zimmerman 凉拖 Mules: Sonia Rykiel

衬衫 Shirt: Carlos Gil 短裤 Shorts: 汤米·希尔费格 Tommy Hilfiger 长靴 Boots: Guess

长夹克 Long-line jacket: Scotch & Soda 长裤 Trousers: 珑骧 Longchamp 皮带 Belt: Maison Vaincourt 高跟鞋 Shoes: 芬迪 Fendi

夹克 Jacket: 亚历山大·麦昆 Alexander McQueen 凉鞋 Sandals: Saint Laurent 短裤 Shorts: Just Cavalli 太阳镜 Sunglasses: Smith

上衣 Top: 珑骧 Longchamp 上衣 Top: 米索尼 Missoni 半截裙 Skirt: M Missoni 运动鞋 Sneakers: Pierre Hardy 耳环 Earrings: COS

Essential TRENDS

定制 ......高级定制的灵感 The inspirations of Couture…Haute Couture 在巴黎最近举行的一个高级定制时装周上，突出的系列有一些共同点：源于菜蔬和动物，文化传统和历史建筑。与往常一样，最引人注目的是精湛工艺诠释的创意美 At the last Haute Couture Fashion Week in Paris, the distinctive collections had some common denominators: vegetable and animal origin, cultural traditions and architecture with history. What most stood out, as always, was the creative beauty paired with excellent craftsmanship 文/by CATARINA VASQUES RITO

今

Fendi

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年二月去世的老佛爷卡尔•拉格菲尔德 (Karl Lagerfeld)是意大利奢侈品牌 Fendi 芬迪的灵感主题之一，该品牌与这位德国设计师多年来保持着密切关系。对于 Venturini Fendi 来说，老佛爷的创作作不仅止于技巧或创意，还与“他需要打破禁忌，总是超越政治上的正确 ” 有关，因为对他来说，没有什么是不可能的，这让我们总想要踏前一步”。但芬迪秋冬高定系列不單向老佛爷致敬。也向罗马市的文化根源致敬，这从品牌创作的图案可见一斑，同时系列中各款新品也在在呈现这点。真皮和皮草(老佛爷喜爱的材质 )被重用，结合更精致的面料，赋予了该系列精致的美感，并强调了罗马人的世俗历史，以其最具代表性的古迹，其中包括罗马斗兽场去体现历史感。意大利设计师詹巴迪斯塔· 瓦利(Giambattista Valli)挑选出自己创作历程中一些最好的作品，进行全新诠释，从而打造出这个创意满满的新系列，公众可以通过他安排的有如特展的走秀感受其用心。最近与快时尚品牌 H＆M 的合作为他带来了更广泛的国际认，其最新作品证明了这点。事实上，正如瓦利指出的那样，这是一个“宁静的时刻”，以 “从已完成作品吸收灵感”来体现，与巴黎高级定制时装周的热闹喧嚣形成鲜明对比。而颜色的选择和作品本身的结构，表达出部分的“宁静时刻”，它们象征“回到过去的旅程”。

arl Lagerfeld, who passed away last February, was one of the inspirational themes of the Italian house Fendi, the brand with whom the German designer kept a direct relationship over the course of several years. For Venturini Fendi, Lagerfeld’s work wasn’t only limited to technique or creativity, but also related to “his need to break taboos and to always go beyond the politically correct, because for him, nothing was impossible, making us want to always go that bit further”. But the brand’s fallwinter haute couture collection wasn’t just an homage to Karl Lagerfeld. It was also an homage to the cultural roots of the city of Rome, as can be seen in the patterns created by Fendi and present in various pieces in the collection. The strong presence of leather and fur (materials adored by Lagerfeld), combined with more delicate fabrics, afforded the collection with delicateness and beauty, emphasising the secular history of a population reflected in their most iconic monuments, among them the Coliseum. The Italian Giambattista Valli chose to develop a collection enhanced by a talent-filled journey, selecting some of his best creative moments and giving them a new approach that the public can see through a special exhibition. His recent collaboration with the fast-fashion brand H&M brought the designer a broader perspective of international recognition, which didn’t go unnoticed in his latest work. In fact, as

Viktor & Rolf

Jean-Paul Gaultier

Ralph & Russo

Essential TRENDS

Valentino

Jean-Paul Gaultier 72 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Viktor & Rolf

Essential TRENDS 高缇耶(Jean-Paul Gaultier)是同代法国设计师中唯一一位依然掌管自己品牌，并且继续享受自己所做事情，无惧于冒险或被指刻板、定型的。受到连帽衫的启发，他运用灵感源自动物的剪裁和印花来体现 “向凤凰般浴火重生的意念”。意大利设计师 Pierpaolo Piccioli 掌舵下的华伦天奴(Valentino)，其高定系列建基于一个有关那些被当世世界领导者排斥和孤立的文化的强大信息。品牌不仅通过特定的生产技术创造优雅作品，而且认为更重要的是 “把全球消费者想要的东西表达出来，突出他们认同的元素。因此，今天要保持高定时装活力的唯一方法是，展现和重视来自不同身份和文化的女性 ” 。为延续品牌的 DNA， Piccoli 通过结合形状、色彩和令人赞叹的复杂细节——灵感来自伟大的时装摄影师 Richard Avedon 和 Guy Bourdin 的人像作品或传奇时尚编辑、策展人 Diana Vreeland 的画作——成功地营造当下和当代感，同时他回溯到更久远，将文艺复兴时期画家罗索菲奥伦蒂诺(Rosso Fiorentino)的作品带到现在重新演绎。结果真是棒极了。再一次，关注未来世界以及社会和政治行为是 Viktor＆Rolf 系列的主题。今季他们第一次与设计师 Claudy Jongstra 直接合作，Glaudy 曾运用古老的织毡技术创作，曾于志在恢复污染少又环保的传统的项目中进行合作。 “我们旨在改变因环境问题引发的耻辱感，并将其转化为积极的东西，”7 月 3 日巴黎的时装秀完结之后 Viktor Horsting 如是说。 쐽

Giambattista Valli

Fendi

Valli notes, this was a “moment of peace” displayed in a way that “enables the absorption of the completed work”, a contrast to the natural buzz of Haute Couture Fashion Week in Paris. Part of that “moment of peace” is expressed in the choice of colour palette and in the construction of the pieces themselves, which evoke a “journey through the past”. Jean-Paul Gaultier is the only French designer of his generation who still stands at the helm of his brand and who continues to have fun with what he does, without fear of taking risks or extrapolating stereotypes. Inspired by hoodies, he used animal-inspired cuts and prints to embody “the idea of something rising from its ashes, like the phoenix”. Valentino, overseen by the Italian Pierpaolo Piccioli, based its collection on a powerful message relating to cultures that are ostracised and isolated by world leaders in today’s society. More than creating elegant pieces with specific production techniques, the brand believes it is important “to give a voice to what the global consumer wants, highlighting references with

which they identify. So the only way to keep haute couture alive today is to show, and value, women in their various identities and cultures”. In keeping with the brand’s DNA, Piccoli manages to stay current and contemporary by combining shapes, colours and incredibly intricate details, inspired by the portraits of Richard Avedon and Guy Bourdin or the paintings of Diana Vreeland, without forgetting a more distant past and bringing the work of Renaissance painter Rosso Fiorentino to present day. The result is simply superb. Once more, a concern with the future of the world and social and political behavior was the order of the day in Viktor&Rolf ’s collection. For the first time, they worked in direct partnership with a designer, Claudy Jongstra, who has worked with ancient felting techniques, collaborating in projects that recover less polluting and eco-friendly traditions. “Our aim is to alter the feeling of disgrace in relation to our environment and change it into something positive,” said Viktor Horsting, following the show that took place in Paris on 3 July. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2019年 8月- 9月 | 73

新篇章 A new chapter 备受期待的 Chanel 香奈儿 2019/20 秋冬高级定制系列是第一个完全由老佛爷卡尔• 拉格菲尔德(Karl Lagerfeld)的继任者 — — 维吉妮 · 维娅 (Virginie Viard)Virginie Viard 全力打造的高定系列 With high expectations for its arrival, Chanel’s haute couture Autumn-Winter 2019/20 collection is the first to be totally subscribed by Virginie Viard, Karl Lagerfeld’s successor 文/by CÁTIA MATOS

巴

黎大皇宫被打造成一座圆形图书馆，在此展示全新的香奈儿秋冬高级定制系列。香奈儿以这个秀场设计向老佛爷致敬，这位伟大设计师为书疯狂，据估计他的私人藏书超过 25 万本。香奈儿现任艺术总监维吉妮 ·维娅将她心目中的香奈儿女性呈现于 T 台上。 “我想到一位灵动自由的女性，浑身散发着不经意的优雅，拥有我所欣赏的一切香奈儿魅力特质。”，维吉妮说。 74 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

he Grand Palais, in Paris has been transformed into an authentic rotating library to present the latest Autumn-Winter Chanel haute couture collection. The scenery pays tribute to Karl Lagerfeld given that the designer was mad about books and it is estimated that his personal library had over 250,000. The current creative house director, Virginie Viard, carried her vision of the Chanel woman to the catwalk.

Essential COUTURE 这些新品展现了 1930 年代高雅干练的廓形，细节丰富，厚身布料采用了宽松的设计，系以腰带或绑绳固定，看上去灵动流畅，散发摩登休闲气息。用色上，黑色，白色，海蓝色，梅红和波尔多红，其间点缀些许粉红色，紫红色，蓝色，绿色或橙色以及银色或金色条纹。有质感的蕾丝，五彩刺绣和羽毛，各饰其色，呈现新意的鲜花和螺旋图案，这些是香奈儿系列中的别样特色，令人瞩目。粗花呢外套也被重点演绎，无论配搭腰带与否，都具有明显的硬朗气质。德国设计师卡尔·拉格菲尔德去世后，维吉妮·维娅自 2 月份起任香奈儿服饰名品部艺术总监，2019/20 秋冬高定系列是她掌舵后完全自主创作的首个系列。 쐽

“I imagined a woman with a casual beauty and a free and fluid silhouette, in other words everything that I like about Chanel”, says Virginie. Revealing a sophisticated line that evokes the 1930s and rich in details, the pieces are defined by their chic casual style with fluid volumes that are loose and agile and fastened by belts or strings. Black, white, marine blue, plum and bordeaux are interspersed with some pink, fuchsia, blue, green or orange and silvery or golden stripes. The textured lace, multicoloured embroidery and feathers, each worked individually, reinventing flowers and spirals, are some additional characteristics that stand out from the Chanel collection. The tweed coats too are highlighted, with or without belts and have clear masculine influences. This was the first collection to be totally subscribed by Virginie Viard since taking the creative helm for the Chanel collections in February after the death of the German designer Karl Lagerfeld. 쐽

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Essential BEAUTY

清凉夏日对热爱旅游的人来说，天气炎热时的旅行也别有一番乐趣，但太过炎热就让乐趣大打折扣了。馥蕾诗（Fresh）推出的最新产品—— Sugar Mint Rush Freshening Lip Treatment 薄荷沁凉保湿护唇膏，让双唇全天拥有清新凉爽的感觉。新唇膏的配方不仅保留了品牌的标志性成分——澄糖，还添加了一个封装系统，当你抿起双唇时，浓郁的薄荷味道会喷薄而出。馥蕾诗联合创始人 Lev Glazman 表示：“这款多功能唇膏是受薄荷糖和口腔芳香清新剂的启发而研发的，能为双唇带来持久清新感觉，并且 24 小时保持滋润。”

Keep Cool in Hot Weather Hot weather is a joy for many travellers, but too much of a good thing can be annoying. With Fresh’s latest innovation, the Sugar Mint Rush Freshening Lip Treatment, your lips will enjoy fresh and cool feel all day. The formula for this new lip product not only keeps the brand’s iconic ingredient, sugar, but also adds an encapsulation system that instantly triggers a minty sensation when you press your lips together. “Inspired by mints and breath fresheners, I wanted to develop a multifunctional lip treatment that delivers a longlasting fresh sensation plus 24-hour hydration,” says Fresh co-founder Lev Glazman.

24 小时防水粉饼要找到适合自己的粉底并不容易，但玫珂菲（MAKE UP FOR EVER）轻松解决了这个问题。玫珂菲专为夏季设计推出了 Matte Velvet Skin 柔雾空气粉饼。全新质地、高效的持久柔雾配方首次集完美遮瑕、极度舒适自然、不浮粉等特点于一体。独家配方锁定粉末，防水、持妆、不浮粉、不开裂，是各种水上活动的妆容首选。此外，配方还具有深入肌肤纹理和反光特性，打造出天然的丝绒效果。全新 Matte Velvet Skin 柔雾空气粉饼共有 11 款色调，所有肤色都能找到适合自己的一款粉饼。

Waterproof 24-Hour Wear Finding the right foundation is not easy but with MAKE UP FOR EVER, that is no longer a problem. Designed especially for summer makeup, the brand presents Matte Velvet Skin, the next generation of long-lasting matte – new textures and high-performing formulas that for the first time combine full coverage, extreme wear and a non-cakey, life-like result. The unique formula locks the powders for waterproof and long-wearing coverage that doesn’t flake or crack, perfect for a variety of water activities. Moreover, this foundation has texturizing and light-reflecting properties that create a natural and velvety finish. The new Matte Velvet Skin foundation is available in 11 shades, to cover all skin tones.

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Essential BEAUTY

卡布里女孩如果您正在计划夏日假期，意大利南部小岛卡布里（Capri）是一生必去的地方之一。第勒尼安海（Tyrrhenian Sea）碧蓝的海水一望无垠，海水色彩更透明，自然风景更让人心荡神怡。白色的洋房周围处处是绚烂的色彩，大自然的芳香沁人心脾：繁茂的绿叶、紫红色的三角梅，屹立在悬崖边上发黑的松树剪影，卡普里宛若落入凡间的伊甸园！浪凡（Lanvin）以卡布里岛为灵感，推出了全新香氛 A Girl In Capri 卡布里女孩。优美简洁的香水瓶洋溢着柔美气息，香水前调是柠檬香，中调的葡萄柚花香让人不禁莞尔，尾调则是淡雅的海洋香气，如海风轻抚肌肤，惬意无比。全新淡香水共有三种包装，分别是 30 毫升、 50 毫升和 90 毫升。

A Girl in Capri For those who are planning summer vacation, Capri must be on the bucket list. The Tyrrhenian Sea is a true blue, its colour more transparent and its nature more luxurious than anywhere else. Colours and aromas abound are all around with white patrician houses, green leaves, fuchsia bougainvillea and the almost black silhouettes of the pines as they cling to the craggy cliffs. Inspired by this lovely island, Lanvin launched a new fragrance, A Girl In Capri. The bottle is elegant and feminine and this fragrance opens with lemon essence. In the heart notes, delicate grapefruit flowers sketch a mischievous smile, while, subtle sea spray notes delicately caress the skin. The new perfume is available in 30, 50 and 90ml Eau de Toilette.

城市肌肤利器城市生活节奏越来越快引发了各种问题：睡眠不足、长时间的面对屏幕、各种压力、日常化妆和污染在源源不断地给皮肤增加负荷。因此，可以保护皮肤免受污染的护肤品是必不可少的。碧欧泉（Biotherm）Aqua Super Concentrate 源泉亮肌精华素是解决这个麻烦的完美方案。无论何时何地，只要轻轻一按，就能立即为肌肤补充水分，即时修饰肤色，令肌肤柔滑透亮，并明显收细毛孔。全新的源泉亮肌精华素按照不同肤质推出了三款产品。Your [Super Plumpy Skin] Equation 源泉水凝回弹素配方让粗糙、干燥的肌肤更为光滑、紧致、有弹性。Your [Super Glowy] Equation 源泉亮肌赋活素配方包含光学焕肌技术，以亮泽精华明亮肌肤，修饰不匀肤色，令肌肤柔滑透亮。为了对抗油性皮肤的油光满面，并缩小毛孔，Your [Super Pure Skin] Equation 源泉净肌透澈素配方采用 Airlicium 控制技术，有助于吸收皮脂，并抵御油光，令肌肤雅致净透。

Best Solutions for City Skin The pace of life in city is getting faster and faster. Lack of sleep, increased screen time, stress, make-up and pollution are all putting pressure on our skins. Therefore, having a skincare product which can protect it from pollution is mandatory. Biotherm’s Aqua Super Concentrate provides a bespoke solution in a single dose that quickly hydrates and restores your glow and visibly reduces pores – whenever you need it most. The new Aqua Super Concentrate is available in three versions for different needs. The Your [Super Plumpy Skin] Equation takes care of rough and dry skin, so that it’s smoother, firmer and more supple, while the Your [Super Glowy] Equation contains Optical Light Technology which can perfect skin tone, unevenness and make it glow. To help fight against excess sebum and shininess and reduce pores, there is a Your [Super Pure Skin] Equation, which uses Airlicium control technology to help absorb sebum and fight shininess.

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Essential BAZAAR

演变出新

复古眼镜精致时刻瑞士制表商 TAG Heuer 泰格豪雅的最新 Carrera Lady(卡萊拉)系列采用清新设计，突显精致和优雅气息。这款新款女表配有自动机械机芯或石英机芯以及 36 毫米不锈钢表壳，珍珠贝母表盘有白色、紫色、蓝色或灰色可选。腕表的防水深度达 100 米，动力储存 38 小时，表带有小牛皮和鳄鱼皮材质可选。

奢侈眼镜品牌 Linda Farrow 推出最新款式的复古风格眼镜。搭配独特的元素，如特别的金属细节，鉸链配件或猫眼镜面，使得新系列尽显优雅和大胆前卫。Linda Farrow 创立于 1970 年，如今已成为奢侈眼镜领域的知名品牌，曾与一些世界上最负盛名的时装设计师合作，如德赖斯·范诺顿(Dries van Noten)、 Phillip Lim 和 Jeremy Scott。

Vintage feeling Eyewear brand Linda Farrow has unveiled its latest models, inspired by vintage style. Elegance and boldness are the standout features in this line, with peculiar features such as distinctive metal details, accessory chains or cat-eye shapes. Founded in 1970, Linda Farrow is today a renowned figure in the luxury eyewear segment, collaborating with some of the world’s most prestigious fashion designers, such as Dries van Noten, Phillip Lim and Jeremy Scott. www.lindafarrow.com

Sophisticated hour The latest Carrera Lady collection from Swiss watchmakers TAG Heuer has a fresh design, highlighting sophistication and elegance. Available with both automatic or quartz calibre and a 36mm stainless-steel case, the new models have a mother-of-pearl dial in white, purple, blue or grey. Water resistant up to 100 metres and with a 38-hour power reserve, the watches’ bracelets come in calf and crocodile leather. www.tagheuer.com

78 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Tod's x 包先生限量合作款

D.ICON 是意大利珠宝品牌 Damian 最受欢迎和最标志性的系列之一，完美地融汇高科技陶瓷技术与极为传统的黄金和钻石加工工艺。该系列采用了时尚、独特的设计，各款首饰单品都采用圆润或易于识别的形状，代表了金银加工艺术的最新演变。系列包括多款项链、手镯、吊坠和戒指，有多种色彩可供选择，包括从经典的黑白色到更现代的色调，如卡布奇诺咖啡色，蓝色和精美的蜜饯粉色

TOD’S 托德斯与中国时尚博主 MR. BAGS 包先生携手合作，推出限量版独角兽 D Styling 包袋。独角兽 D Styling 包款在承袭 D Styling 原有廓形(时尚而优雅的方形)的基础上，以一条配衬包身原曲线的缝纫带子元素贯穿其中。新款包袋搭配深浅不一的蓝色和手绘边线，但最引入注目的当属包先生亲自操刀设计的独角兽挂饰。

Tod’s and Mr. Bags Tod’s has joined forces with Chinese influencer Mr. Bags, and the result is this limited edition entitled Unicorn D-Styling. Taking the silhouette of the original D-Styling – square, modern and elegant, with a central strap that accompanies the original curve of the bag –, the Unicorn D-Styling presents different shades of blue and hand-painted edges, highlighting its unicorn-shaped pendant, designed by Mr. Bags. www.tods.com

Evolution in tradition One of the most popular and iconic collections by Damian, D.ICON seamlessly combines high-tech ceramics with highly traditional gold and diamond craftsmanship. With a unique and modern design, the collection represents the evolution of the art of goldsmithery, featuring pieces with rounded and easily recognisable shapes. Comprising a wide range of necklaces, bracelets, pendants and rings, this line is available in an array of colours ranging from classic black and white to more modern shades, such as cappuccino, “carta da zucchero” blue and a delicate “rosa confetto” pink. www.damiani.com

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功能强劲 BELL & ROSS 柏莱士新款潜水腕表 BR 03-92 Diver Black Matte，彰显该瑞士品牌功能和实用兼容并蓄的策略。柏莱士以特定的制造工艺改造其高科技陶瓷材质，提升了材料的质量，例如使它更轻盈、耐用，且致敏性低。这款新表采用哑光黑色陶瓷表壳和单向旋转陶瓷表圈。防水 300 米，该标杆新款腕表配有梳织黑色橡胶表带和黑色超弹性合成纤维表带。

型格又实用 Tommy Hilfiger 汤米·希尔费格特别打造的 2019 春夏系列，是为讲求实际又追求时尚的男士而设。新系列的单品适合不同场合穿着，包括意大利制造的亚麻西装 (可在家洗涤)，修身长裤(内有特制腰带，更加舒适)。此外，自行车套装采用带反光带的袖口，并采用防皱线缝制，为骑行者提供最大的机动性。

色彩斑斓 Louis Vuitton 路易威登的最新男士太阳镜系列名为 Rainbow(彩虹)。新款墨镜以彩虹为灵感，歌颂多元和差异，让人一窥路易威登男装艺术总监 Virgil Abloh 的真实世界。系列有两款造型，配备多种颜色供选择，包括黑色，驼色，红色，黄色，蓝色，橙色和透明色。

Full of colour Rainbow is Louis Vuitton’s latest sunglasses collection for men. An authentic invitation into the world of Virgil Abloh, director of the maison’s male lines, these new models are inspired by the rainbow and celebrate differences and diversity. The line’s two styles are available in a large array of colours, including black, camel, red, yellow, blue, orange and transparent. www.louisvuitton.com

Style and practicality Tommy Hilfiger’s Tailored Spring 2019 collection was made for the practical yet stylish man. Suitable for different occasions, pieces from the new line include Italian-made linen suits, which can be washed at home, and slim-fit trousers with an internally tailored waistband for additional comfort. The bike suits have cuffs with reflective tapes and are made with crease-resistant thread to maximise mobility while pedalling. www.tommyhilfiger.com

清爽一夏针对漫长而炎热的夏日，Falconeri 的 2019 春夏系列专注于多功能和实用性。优雅、高品质和极致舒适是该意大利品牌产品的共同特质，非常适合休闲时光。其中,Cable Jacket(麻花针织外套)，采用棉和亚麻成分的布料，搭配特色麻花针织图案。外套配有两个贴袋，以及罗纹下摆和罗纹袖。

On the summer wave With long summer days in mind, Falconeri’s Spring/Summer 2019 collection focuses on versatility and functionality. Elegance, high quality and maximum comfort are the common denominator between the Italian brand’s pieces, which are perfect for leisure time. Proof of that is the Cable Jacket, made from cotton and linen with a cable-knit pattern. The jacket has two patch pockets and ribbed hem and sleeve. www.falconeri.com

Functional approach The new model from Bell & Ross, the BR 03-92 Diver Black Matte, reiterates the brand’s functional and practical approach. The Swiss brand reworked its high-tech ceramics through a specific manufacturing process, improving the qualities of the material, such as its lightness and resistance, as well as its hypoallergenic features. This new model has a matte-black ceramic case and uni-directional rotating ceramic bezel. With water resistance up to 300 metres, this new benchmark also has a woven black rubber strap and ultra-resistant black synthetic fabric. www.bellross.com

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当奢侈时装品牌进军酒店业 When luxury fashion turns to the hotel world 奢侈时装界的一个新趋势是，收购或建设酒店、餐厅或酒品品牌。这种强强联手将品牌的相关性最大化，并提供过去十年中最受消费者欢迎的商品：体验的创造 One of the trends that has marked the luxury fashion world is the acquisition and construction of hotels, restaurants or beverage brands. This encounter of giants maximizes brand relevance and provides the most highly sought-after commodity of the last decade: the creation of experiences 文/by MARIANA CORREIA DE BARROS 80 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

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来

自法国奢侈品巨头 LVMH 集团的最新消息，是关于收购法国桃红酒酒庄 Chateau du Galoupet（佳路佩城堡，全名为： Château du Galoupet, Cru Classé since 1955)。消息于 5 月份传出，而 LVMH 在线平台于 7 月中旬才公布这项交易。Chateau du Galoupet 位于法国南部拉隆德莱丝莫里斯 (La Londeles-Maures)，拥有葡萄园面积 68 公顷，这些葡萄园受益于微气候，此地凉爽的温度和海风滋养着葡萄树。LVMH 全名 Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy（法国酩悦 ·轩尼诗－路易 ·威登集团），1987 年由时尚和皮具配饰品牌路易威登（Louis Vuitton）与奢侈酒品品牌酩悦·轩尼诗（Moët Hennessy）合并而成，因而对于 LVMH，再拓展桃红酒业务不足为奇。毕竟，LVMH 集团聚集了数十个品牌，最值得注意的包括，时装品牌有 Christian Dior 迪奥，Givenchy 纪梵希和 Fendi 芬迪；Hublot 宇舶和 Bvlgari 宝格丽等钟表和高级珠宝品牌；化妆品品牌娇兰 ;精品零售品牌 Le Bon Marché 玻玛榭百货；而旗下葡萄酒及烈酒品牌包罗了 Dom Pérignon 香槟王，Veuve Cliquot 凯哥香槟， Ruinart 修纳尔香槟和 Château Cheval Blanc 白马酒庄。然而，回顾过去，其他与强大的 LVMH 集团相关的值得关注的新闻，都在在体现了曾

几何时只与时装界有关系的奢侈品牌，如今是如何实现多元化的增长战略的。其中一条重磅消息是，2018 年 12 月 LVMH 宣布以约 28 亿欧元收购英国酒店集团 Belmond 贝尔蒙德。今年 4 月 20 日，当交易完结时，LVMH 网站发布了一条可爱的信息：“欢迎贝尔蒙德！” Belmond 贝尔蒙德酒店集团创立于 1976 年，其成立乃因该年收购威尼斯标志性的 Hotel Cipriani 酒店，集团在全球拥有 40 多家奢华酒店，包括葡萄牙马德拉群岛的 Reid's Palace 和 “威尼斯 -辛普伦东方快车 ”(Venice Simplon Orient Express)——一条伦敦-威尼斯沿线运营的豪华列车专线。此次交易公布后，英国《卫报》引用 LVMH 集团法籍主席兼 CEO 贝尔纳·阿尔诺 (Bernard Arnault)的说话：“贝尔蒙德为要求苛刻的旅行者提供独特的体验（......）。此次收购将大大增加 LVMH 集团在旅游和酒店业界的影响力。” 自本世纪初以来，LVMH 集团在奢侈旅游领域发挥了积极作用。首先，出于管理位于法国圣特罗佩（ Saint-Tropez)、高雪维尔 (Courchevel)和马尔代夫的多家 Cheval Blanc (白马庄园)酒店所需，2010 年，LVMH 集团创立了 LVMH Hotel Management 酒店管理公司。紧接着在 2011 年， LVMH 集团通过收购

ne of the latest news updates from the French luxury brand LVMH was the acquisition of Château du Galoupet, Cru Classé since 1955. The news was released in May and the deal was announced on the LVMH online platform in mid July. Located in Southern France, in La Londe-les-Maures, the group acquired 68 hectares of vineyards that benefit from a microclimate that refreshes the vines with cool temperatures and sea breezes. This line of business is not outlandish for a group that arose from the amalgamation of a luxury fashion and accessories brand (Louis Vuitton), and a luxury beverage brand (Moët Hennessy), in 1987. After all, the group agglomerates dozens of brands including, most notably, Christian Dior, Givenchy and Fendi in fashion; Hublot and Bulgari in watches and fine jewellery; Guerlain in cosmetics; Le Bon Marché in retail; Dom Pérignon, Veuve Cliquot, Ruinart and Château Cheval Blanc, in the beverage sector. However, looking back, other noteworthy news related to the powerful LVMH group exemplifies how luxury brands once only associated to the fashion world, are now diversifying their growth strategies. One of those 澳门精华 | 2019年 8月- 9月 | 81

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Bvlgari 宝格丽进一步扩大了在酒店领域的业务。收购使得宝格丽在米兰、巴厘岛、伦敦、北京、迪拜和上海）的豪华酒店纳归这个法国奢侈品帝国管理，而宝格丽巴黎酒店也定于 2020 年开业，莫斯科酒店定于 2021 年、东京酒店定于 2022 年开业，因而为集团在时装、配饰、酒店和餐厅业务之间创造独特不凡的协同效应。时装品牌进军其他生活方式领域并非什么新鲜事，但近年来这趋势越演越烈，其目标是多元发展及为客户提供与众不同的珍贵时刻。例如，通过在东京、迪拜或上海等城市的奢侈品集散地的关键位置进行战略性布局，许多公司渴望跨行业插旗开店。为此，他们正在建立包含餐厅、酒店的小型帝国，甚至连收购酒庄都成为机不可失的良机，奢侈时尚品牌收购酒庄的风气亦日盛。据说，首开先河的是位于澳大利亚黄金海岸的范思哲宫 (Palazzo Versace)，它建于 2000 年，是米兰范思哲宫的复刻版。黄金海岸范思哲宫以华丽的细节装饰，并有一个私人码头。2005 年，意大利时装设计师乔治·阿玛尼 (Giorgio Armani)的公司与中东房地产开发商伊玛尔地产(Emaar Properties)开始建立合作关系以联手建立豪华酒店。其中两家酒店已经在运营中：一家位于迪拜的摩天大楼迪拜塔，其室内设计由阿玛尼本人操刀，另一家设于米兰，风格与阿玛尼公司的时装设计相似。阿玛尼的邀请语极好地反映了当前的趋势：“让阿玛尼常伴你(Stay with Armani)”。 82 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

news flashes was the announcement of the purchase of the British hotel group Belmond in December 2018, for the sum of approximately 2,8 billion Euros. On April 20th of this year, when the deal was closed, the LVMH website proclaimed a charming message: "Welcome Belmond!" In the hotel group, founded in 1976 with the acquisition of the iconic Hotel Cipriani in Venice, there are more than 40 luxury hotels around the world, including Reid's Palace in Madeira and the Venice-Simplon OrientExpress, the most magnificent way to travel by train between Venice and London. When the deal was made public, The Guardian quoted the Frenchman Bernard Arnault, Chairman and CEO of LVMH: "The Belmond provides unique experiences for demanding travellers (...). This acquisition will significantly increase the presence of the LVMH Group in the world of tourism and hospitality." Since the beginning of this century, the LVMH Group has had an active role in the luxury destination sector. First, with the Cheval Blanc hotels in Saint-Tropez, Courcheval and Maldives which led to the creation of the LVMH Hotel Management insignia in 2010, to manage this line of business. Then, in 2011, the LVMH Group further expanded its activity in this area with the acquisition of Bvlgari. In this way, the sumptuous hotels of the brand in Milan, Bali,

London, Beijing, Dubai and Shanghai (Paris is slated to open in 2020, Moscow in 2021 and Tokyo in 2022), came under the management of the French powerhouse, thus offering distinctive and unique synergies between fashion, accessories, hospitality, and restaurants. The entry of fashion brands into other lifestyle areas is not new, but it has been particularly significant in recent years with the objective of diversifying experiences and offering exclusive and rare moments. Through strategic openings in key locations for the luxury market in cities such as Tokyo, Dubai or Shanghai, for example, many companies aspire to be present in more than one industry sector. To this end, they are building small empires where restaurants, hotels and even the acquisition of vineyards are opportunities that are becoming increasingly obvious. As the story goes, the first to initiate this trend was the Palazzo Versace on the Gold Coast in Australia, back in 2000, with a recreation of the Milan flagship palace. It was decorated with opulent details and had a private marina. In 2005, the company of Italian Giorgio Armani associated itself with the Middle Eastern real estate developer Emaar Properties in order to build luxury hotels. Two are already operating: one in the Burj Khalifa skyscraper in Dubai, which boasts interiors designed by

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虽然层面不同但同样值得注意的是，奢侈品牌创始人以进军酒店业界实现多元发展而堪称典范的，有几家最为突出。值得一提的有，巴黎的贝勒切丝(Le Bellechasse)酒店，由设计师拉克鲁瓦(Christian Lacroix)亲自操刀设计改造该酒店的 33 间客房，提供七种不同风格的空间，赋予宾客的每一次入住以一个独特体验。另一个例子是位于伦敦 Claridges 酒店的传奇套房 — — The Grand Piano Suite，由时装设计师 Diane Von Furstenberg 全盘负责构思和装饰。旅游业的增长不仅见于亚洲市场和中东，而且见于田园诗般优美的岛屿和欧洲各国首都 (这些首都城市会继续是优质的旅游目的地，例如巴黎、伦敦和米兰），此外，奢侈酒店业的增长也可能是这一战略性业务重整的主因。根据市场研究和咨询公司 Grand View Research Inc.的预测，到 2025 年，全球豪华酒店的市场价值将达到约 1037 亿欧元。同一研究还指出，寻求奢侈假期的旅客也寻求舒适和优质的客户服务，却不太考虑所涉及的成本。因此，独特和珍贵的体验变得越来越吸引人并不令人惊讶。Ruinart 修纳尔香槟隶属 LVMH 集团，它于 2018 年也出 84 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

招，推出一间予人丰富感官体验的 Popup 快闪酒店。今年，Ruinart 再度重复这个神秘概念，总是以 Hotel 1729(品牌成立的那一年)为名，品牌在伦敦诺丁山启动一间快闪酒店，酒店只有一个房间及只开放十晚。这个概念是与 Loewe 罗意威创意总监 Jonathan Anderson 联合实施的，该合作标志着香槟品牌与艺术界的结盟。奢品品牌进军酒店业这一趋势的其中一个明确目标也是让消费者与奢侈品牌（其中一些品牌有一百年甚至两百年）直接接触 ——以无疑会创造难忘回忆的意想不到的方式。因此仅仅提供一家五星级酒店远不足够 ;除了作为地位或声望的象征，酒店还必须充满灵性，激发情感。另外也存在一种略有不同，但也反映了奢侈时装品牌渴望吸引新受众的的商业模式：与餐饮界相关联，目前已有一系列品牌循此方向发展。已拥有自己的文化中心 (普拉达基金会艺术中心 Fondazione Prada) 的意大利品牌 Prada 普拉达，于 2014 年购入米兰糕点店 Pasticceria Marchesi 的 80％股权。 Pasticceria Marchesi 是家成立于 1824 年的殿堂级糕点店，看起来就像是美国导演韦斯

Armani himself and another in Milan, also along the same lines as the pieces designed by the House of Armani. The brand's invitation reflects the current trend extremely well: "Stay with Armani". On a different level, but equally noteworthy and exemplary of the diversification of the creators of luxury brands towards the world of hotels, several other properties stand out. Notably, the Hotel Le Bellechasse in Paris where the designer Christian Lacroix left his signature in the creation of seven different universes in 33 rooms, offering a potentially unique experience with every single stay. Another example is the already legendary Grand Piano Suite in Claridges in London, completely conceived and decorated by the fashion designer Diane Von Furstenberg. The increase in tourism, not only in Asian markets and in the Middle East, but also on idyllic islands and in European capital cities (which continue to be premium destinations, for example, Paris, London and Milan), and the growth of the luxury hotel sector are probably

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·安德森(Wes Anderson)电影中的场景。除了 Pasticceria Marchesi 原总店之外，近年品牌还在米兰新开了两家分店，今年春天，第四家分店在伦敦高端区梅费尔区开业，其装潢与首家 Marchesi 相同。当年收购完成后，普拉达 CEO Patrizio Bertelli 向新闻界解释说，“Marchesi 代表着米兰的卓越品质(......)，我们的目标是在尊重传统的同时，以有效的方式开展合作。” 首尔最受欢迎的咖啡馆之一是由 Pierre Hermé 主理的迪奥咖啡 (Café Dior by Pierre Hermé)，Pierre Hermé 是位著名法国糕点师，以其用糖制成的艺术品而闻名。迪奥咖啡与迪奥精品店位于同一栋建筑内，咖啡店提供

the main reasons for this strategic business realignment. According to the market research and consulting firm Grand View Research Inc., it is estimated that the global market for luxury hotels will be worth approximately 103,7 billion Euros by 2025. The same study also reveals that travellers who seek extravagant vacations also seek comfort and quality customer service, without much consideration for the costs involved. Thus, it is hardly surprising that exclusive and rare experiences are becoming increasingly appealing. Ruinart, also part of the LVMH Group, launched its activity in 2018 with a popup hotel overflowing with sensorial experiences.

This year, it is repeating the mysterious concept, always under the name Hotel 1729 (the year the brand was founded), with a hotel with just one room, open for ten nights, in Notting Hill. This concept was executed in partnership with the designer Jonathan Anderson, creative director at Loewe, in an alliance between the champagne brand and the art world. One of the clear objectives of this trend is also to place consumers in direct contact with luxury brands (some of which are one hundred or even two hundred years old), in unexpected ways that will undoubtedly create unforgettable memories. It is not enough to be a five-star

澳门精华 | 2019年 8月- 9月 | 85

Essential LUXURY

带有迪奥品牌标志字母的饮品。Burberry 巴宝利在伦敦摄政街的旗舰店也有自己的咖啡馆，名字为 Thomas's，以纪念品牌创始人。在 Ralph Lauren 拉夫劳伦精品店旁的同一条街上，可以找到 Ralph 咖啡和酒吧，在那里我们可以尽情享用美味的咖啡、设计师鸡尾酒或品尝一些小吃。这家咖啡馆是在纽约市另一家 Ralph 咖啡倒闭后同期开业的，但这个北美品牌以一辆提供美味咖啡的食品卡车的形式在纽约街头定期延续已倒闭咖啡馆的故事。事实上，这些咖啡馆通常在同名精品店内运营，令到客户与每个相关品牌的互动体验时间增加。它们使得客户和潜在客户有更多到访实体店的理由，这样就可以平衡与在线销售的 “健康竞争 ”。各大品牌的预期显而易见：客户与品牌互动的“优质”时间越多，最终带来的收入也更多。近年来蓬勃发展的餐饮业务也越来越多地建基于提供“体验”的概念，这激励其他品牌在实体店外开设餐饮空间。例如，乔治 ·阿玛尼自 1998 年以来一直在世界上一些物

hotel; it is necessary to offer more than just status or prestige, it is necessary to be soulful and to inspire emotion. In a slightly different business model, but which also reflects the way in which luxury fashion brands aspire to reach new audiences, there are currently a series of names associated with the restaurant world. The Italian brand Prada, which already has its very own cultural centre (the Fondazione Prada), in 2014, purchased 80% of the Pasticceria Marchesi in Milan, an iconic pastry shop founded in 1824 which looks like something straight out of a Wes Anderson film. In addition to the original Pasticceria Marchesi, in recent years, two more locations appeared in Milan and in the spring of this year, a fourth location opened in Mayfair, London, along the same decorative lines as the first Marchesi. When the deal was sealed, Patrizio Bertelli explained to the press that "Marchesi represents a symbol of Milanese excellence (...) and our objective is to collaborate in an effective manner in its development while respecting tradition." One of the most popular cafés in Seoul is the Café Dior by Pierre Hermé, the famous French pastry chef known for his works of art made of sugar. It is located in the same building as the Dior boutique and serves, for example, drinks with the brand monogram designed on them. Burberry also has its very own café in its flagship store on Regent Street in London. It is called Thomas's in honour of its founder. On the same street, right next to the Ralph Lauren boutique, we can find Ralph's Coffee & Bar where we can indulge in a gourmet coffee, designer cocktails or savour some snack food. This café surfaced after another one in New York City, which in the meantime closed down, but which the North American brand regularly revives on 86 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential LUXURY

the streets of the Big Apple by means of a food truck serving gourmet coffee. The fact that these cafés typically operate inside their namesake boutiques allows them to increase the duration of the experience with each brand. They give clients and potential clients more reasons to visit the physical stores and in this way, balance out the "healthy competition" with online sales. The expectation is clear: the more "quality" time spent interacting with the brand will ultimately result in an increase in revenue. The restaurant business, which has been booming in recent years, is also increasingly based on the concept of offering an "experience" and inspires other brands to open spaces outside their physical stores. For example, Giorgio Armani has been operating the café and restaurant concept since 1998 in some of the most

expensive cities in the world, such as Cannes, Milan, Tokyo and Paris. These cafés and restaurants have always been an integral part of the expansion of the lifestyle of the Armani brand. Circling back to wines and beverages, the French brand Chanel has also acquired vineyards in Bordeaux. In 2017, it purchased Château Berliquet in Saint-Émilion, which had previously joined two French brands and another brand in Napa Valley, California. Finally, it is worth noting that all these experiences allow consumers to connect with these luxury fashion brands without necessarily making direct contact with the key products of each brand. Without a shadow of a doubt, the term "Experience Economy" coined by The Harvard Business Review in the late 1990s is becoming more and more pervasive in today's world. 쐽

价高昂的城市运营咖啡馆和餐厅概念，如戛纳，米兰，东京和巴黎。这些咖啡馆和餐厅一直是 Armani 阿玛尼品牌生活方式扩展的重要组成部分。转回葡萄酒和饮品话题，法国品牌 Chanel 香奈儿也在波尔多收购了酒庄。2017 年，香奈儿收购了位于法国圣埃美隆 (Saint-Émilion)的 Château Berliquet 贝尔立凯酒庄，此前香奈儿已买下两个法国葡萄酒品牌，以及位于美国加州纳帕谷的一家葡萄园及酒庄。最后，值得一提的是，所有这些体验都让消费者能够与这些奢侈时装品牌建立联系，而不必直接接触每个品牌的主要产品。毫无疑问，《哈佛商业评论》在 20 世纪 90 年代后期提出的 “体验经济”概念在当今世界越发流行。 쐽 澳门精华 | 2019年 8月- 9月 | 87

Essential HOTEL

家外之家 Home away from home 离家旅行时，什么也比不上家一般的住宿和温馨的服务 When traveling far from home, there is nothing better than staying at homelike accommodation with a warm welcome 文/by EDWINA LIU

相

比传统酒店，公寓型酒店能提供更有居家感觉的空间以及更多的灵活性，同时也比私人出租的居室有着更高的服务水准。深圳 G 公寓就是城中最新的生活式酒店和服务式公寓，座落在南山区中心地段。这是由 GCP Hospitality 公司打造的唯一纯法国血统的服务式公寓兼酒店住宿，长期或商旅居住都非常合适。深圳 G 公寓距离数个周边商区都只有很短车程，前往深圳各大地点和交通枢纽也非常方便。“我们大多数长期住客都是国际友人，包括欧洲、美国、加拿大、澳大利亚、日本和韩国等。大陆、香港和新加坡等许多商旅客人也会选择这里，”深圳 G 公寓总经理 Blandine Cressard 女士说。 Blandine 来自法国，在酒店服务业已有超过 20 年经验。她从 G 公寓建造阶段开始已经加入项目团队，并参与了 G 公寓的室内设计。

partment hotels offer more homelike living space and flexibility than a hotel, but a higher level of service than privately owned vacation rentals. Residence G Shenzhen is a French style lifestyle hotel and serviced apartments in the heart of Nanshan District. This is the only property of the GCP Hospitality company and is comprised of serviced apartments and ordinary hotels for daily business stay. The hotel is located only a short drive away from several surrounding business districts, with easy access to Shenzhen’s destination and transportation hub. “Most of our residents are international customers from Europe, America, Canada, Australia and Japan and Korea. Many guests from mainland China, Hong Kong and Singapore come for business trips,” said Blandine Cressard, general manager of Residence G Shenzhen. Originally from France, Blandine has over two decades of experience working in hospitality and joined 88 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential HOTEL

“这是我在中国大陆的首份工作。我已经在亚洲工作 15 年了，但之前从未在深圳工作过。一开始，大多数时间都用在了与施工队打交道上，这不容易。但我非常熟悉自己的产品，也知道自己想做什么。我对自己的工作充满热情。” 深圳 G 公寓拥有 178 间酒店客房和服务式公寓，包括开间及一至三卧公寓，适合短

the project during its construction stage and was involved in the interior design. “It’s my first work in mainland China. When I arrived at Shenzhen, I had been in Asia for 15 years, but I had never worked here. At the beginning, most of time was actually spent dealing with the construction team, which was not easy. However, I know my product very

well and what I want to do. I have passion of what I am doing.” Residence G Shenzhen offers 178 rooms and serviced apartments ranging from studios to one-, two- and three-bedroom apartments for short or long stays. “Residence G Shenzhen is different because people come here for one night or two, whilst some live here for a year or

澳门精华 | 2019年 8月- 9月 | 89

Essential HOTEL

期或长期居住。“深圳 G 公寓与众不同，人们会来这里住一两晚，也会住一两年。长短期住客都有。G 公寓跟任何其他住宿都不同。人们会感觉更舒适和更有归属感。不仅如此，我们还是生活社区式的酒店，每个人都能获得家一样的感受。这里的一切在别处都找不到，”Blandine 补充说。对商旅客人和长期住客来说，涵盖 10 层和 11 层的“G 会所”提供一系列完备的设施。 10 层提供器械齐全的健身房、瑜伽室、室内恒温游泳池等，还可以在多功能场地打篮球和乒乓球。对家庭来说，这里也有室内和室外儿童娱乐设施。还有露台可以烧烤、休憩和举办 90 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

two. We have both types of guests. The hotel doesn’t look like any other out there. It’s cosier and more welcoming. We are lifestyle community property; when people come here, they feel like at home. Everything you see here you cannot find anywhere else,” says Cressard. For both business guests and long-stay customers, the hotel offers a range of facilities at their G Club, which is located on 10th and 11th floor. On the 10th floor, guests can enjoy the facilities at the full-equipped gym, yoga studio, indoor heated swimming pool or play basketballs and table tennis at the multi-

function courts. For families, the hotel also has an indoor kids’ room and outdoors kids’ playground. On the same floor, there is an open-air terrace for guests to enjoy BBQ, relaxation and a series of hosted pop-up events. The 11th floor is designed as a social hub. The clubhouse features a restaurant and bar offering bistro-style cuisine, as well as two meeting rooms, which are suitable for small business meetings and seminars. The serviced apartments are spacious and luminous, with floor-to-ceiling windows, wooden flooring, elegant furniture and equipped

Essential HOTEL

各种特备活动。11 层被打造成社交场地，其中的会所餐厅与酒吧提供地道的饮食，还有两个会议室，非常适合举行小型会议和讲座。每间服务式公寓都宽敞、明亮，有着从屋顶到地面的大型落地窗，还装有木地板、典雅的家具和配套齐全的厨房。为创造宾至如归的体验，G 公寓提供贴心的个性化服务，还会定期举办聚会。“我为每位住客缔造一个家。我们希望打造出‘G 社区’，让客人都有亲切感。我们会为长期住客举办派对，让住客都能彼此认识。即使我们的厨师也认识每位住客，同时了解他们的饮食习惯。当住客来就餐时，我们就能提供非常个性化的服务，”Blandine 解释说。此外，在一位女性领袖的掌舵下，G 公寓每个月都会举办“女士璀璨之夜”——这是酒店集团的一项全球活动，旨在共同庆祝女性赋权。每次晚会，酒店都会邀请各行各业的女性领袖就不同主题分享洞见。Blandine 透露说：“我发现男士会有许多社交聚会。我也想在这里为女士们提供一些特别活动，因此我邀请女性发言人向其他女士做分享。她们都盛装出席，共度一个美好的夜晚。” 쐽

kitchen. To provide a home away from home experience to guests, the hotel has a thoughtful, personalised service and regular gatherings. “I made a home for everyone. We want to create a G community, and guests are part of that. We have parties for residents, and they know all each other. Even our chef knows them very well and knows their eating habits. When they come for dinner, we can personalise everything,” Cressard explains. Moreover, under the leadership of a female leader, the Residence G celebrates women’s empowerment by hosting the Great & Glamour Ladies Night every month, which is a global initiative of the hotel group. Each time, the hotel invites different women leaders from all industries to share their insights on a variety of topics. “I found that there were many social gatherings for men. I wanted to design something special for women here, so I invite women speakers to talk to other ladies. They dress up and come to the event and we have a great night together,” Cressard revealed. 쐽

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Essential TEA

夏日甜美飨宴 Sweet Summer Party 浏览以下澳门高端下午茶之选指南，探索一番，预订完美的下午茶飨宴 ! Browse the Macau premium Afternoon Tea Guide to find and book your perfect afternoon tea experience 文/by EDWINA LIU 92 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential TEA 舌尖上的艺术品

六月到十月，正值游澳最佳时节，一系列精彩的展览和丰富多彩的艺术作品静待人们去发掘，澳门全城洋溢浓厚的艺术气息，文化活力四射，冀为市民和旅客带来难忘的夏日艺术体验。澳门文华东方酒店的御苑酒廊受画作启发，推出美妙绝伦的 “悦「绘」下午茶 ”，令人雀跃。坐在落地窗旁的宾客在享用茶点之时更可饱览窗外美景，欣赏小城夜间壮丽的轮廓。这套独特的下午茶套餐包含甜点和咸点，并配以特调饮品，被端上犹如画布的桌面让宾客享用。 “画作 ”的每个部分都可以吃，点睛之作是置于中央的“惊喜朱古力球”，

破开球体，就可看到撒上朱古力脆脆和泡沫的布朗尼。除了朱古力球，桌上还有焦糖挞、草苺棒棒糖和樱桃配开心果慕丝。但下午茶要有松饼才算完整，于是画架上整齐地放着御苑酒廊自家制作的松饼及葡萄干松饼。另外，套餐还有三道咸点：鲑鱼配柚子果仁、鸭肝榛子棒棒糖和帝王蟹青苹果卷，待客人点上两杯悦「绘」饮料，整幅画作就大功告成。悦「绘」饮料有各种优质茗茶，咖啡和奶昔特饮，如蛋挞奶昔、提拉米苏奶昔、年糕奶昔和龙之城奶昔。时间：周末下午 3:00 至 6:00 地点：文华东方酒店二楼 F 御苑酒廊

EATABLE ART This is the best time to visit Macau to discover an array of outstanding exhibitions and amazing artworks. From June to October this year, Macau is imbued with an exuberant atmosphere and cultural energy that are bound to amaze residents and tourists alike with an unforgettable artistic summer experience. What is more exciting is Vida Rica Bar at Mandarin Oriental Macau has launched the beautiful Painter’s Afternoon Tea Set, which is inspired by painting. Guests sitting beside the window can enjoy the fantastic views of Macau’s impressive evening skyline during teatime. The special afternoon tea set is served on the table, which here takes the form of a canvas for painting. Chefs assemble these delectable sweets and savoury treats, paired with signature drinks. Each part of this “painting” is eatable and the centrepiece is the Surprise Chocolate Sphere. Cracking the chocolate egg, guests will find a brownie with crunchy chocolate and foam. Apart from the Chocolate Sphere chocolate treat, there is a Caramel Tart, a Strawberry Lollipop and a Cherry and Pistachio Mousse lying on the table. NoAnd because no afternoon tea can be completed is complete without scones. Delicious Homemade Raisin, delicious homemade raisin and Plain Sconesplain scones are neatly placed on the easel. The menu also offers three savoury dishes, icluding Salmon with Pomelo Praline, Foie Gras Hazelnut Lolly and King Crab with Green Apple Roll. To complete the painting, guests can choose two of The Painter’s beverages. The drinks list includes a selection of good-quality tea, coffee and unique contemporary milkshakes such as Egg Tart, Tiramisu, Nian Gao and City of Dragon. Time: Available every weekend, from 3pm to 6pm Location: Vida Rica Bar, Mandarin Oriental, 2/F 澳门精华 | 2019年 8月- 9月 | 93

Essential TEA

清新一夏

阳光灿烂，澳门四季酒店华屋餐厅的 Chef Benjamin Lim 正忙于制作洋溢花果香气的夏日下午茶。华屋餐厅气氛休闲，是聚会放松的好去处。Benjamin 总是创意满满，根据自己独创的食谱，挑选各类新鲜的时令水果，炮制出各式美秒可口的咸点和甜点，包括：味道有趣的配四川风味青酱和西米的烤松叶蟹脚；伴以海胆酱和米曲香蕉的鸭肝酱；配柠檬汁、韩式泡菜和秘鲁黄椒酱的北海道

带子沙律以及搭配粟米、紫苏青酱和西红柿的烟肉伴枝豆。甜点则有柚子挞、蓝莓挞、草苺和芒果糕点，以及四季葡萄干英式松饼。下午茶套餐两位 538 澳门元，另加选搭配 Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu 白葡萄酒两位 658 澳门元，搭配 Duval Leroy Brut 香槟两位 738 澳门元。时间：下午 2:30 至 5:30 地点：澳门四季酒店一楼华屋餐厅

REFRESHING SUMMER The sun is shining, and chef Benjamin Lim, from Windows Restaurant at the Four Seasons Hotel, makes the most of it by indulging in fruity and floral summer afternoon tea. The restaurant offers a leisurely atmosphere and is the perfect place to meet friends and chill. As creative as always, chef Benjamin selects an array of fresh and seasonal fruit to create an array of beautiful and tasty savoury bites and desserts based on his unique recipes. Guests can enjoy the interesting flavours of the snow crab with Sze Chuan persillade and Sago; foie gras with neri uni and Koji-Bannana; Hokkaido scallop with ceviche, kimchi, aji amarillo, and bacon snap with sweet corn, shisho pesto and tomato. The sweet highlights include Yuzu tart, strawberry and mango patisserie, blueberry tart and Four Seasons raisin scones. The tea set alone is MOP 538 for two, but go for the MOP 658 option, which includes Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu white wine pairings and a matching pair of Champagne Duval Leroy Brut for MOP 738. Time: From 2.30pm-5.30pm Location: Windows Restaurant, Four Seasons Hotel, Level 1

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Essential TEA

EXQUISITE JAPANESE HIGH TEA

精致日式下午茶

宾客可以在澳门大仓酒店大堂地下的奈和美喫茶店，体验高端的日式款客服务，品尝特色轻食。为迎接炎夏，奈和美推出了全新的下午茶套餐。套餐的每道开胃茶点都融汇日式美食精华，主打咸点有布里芝士水榄多士、日式猪扒三文治和吞拿鱼沙律三文治，而可口甜食则包括草苺酱、蜂蜜淡忌廉、红

豆糯米糍、巨峰提子慕丝、草苺蛋糕、抺茶泡芙、咸焦糖布朗尼、水果挞和自制曲奇饼，而朱古力和马卡龙甜点会以漆盒盛载上桌给客人享用，卖相精致。时间：下午 1:00 至 6:00 地点：澳门大仓酒店大堂地下奈和美喫茶店

At Nagomi, located on the ground floor of Hotel Okura Macau, guests can experience high-level Japanese hospitality and signature light meal menu. In celebration the hot summer, the café launched a new afternoon high tea set. Fusing Japanese cuisine into each canapé, the tea set features savoury creations – such as toast with Brie cheese and olive tapenade, Japanesa-style pork cutlet sandwich, tuna salad sandwich – as well as delicious sweets such as strawberry jam-honey and clotted cream, Azuki mochi, Kyoho grape mousse, strawberry shortcake, Matcha choux, salty caramel brownie, fruit tart and homemade cookies, with chocolate and macaroons served in a lacquered box. Time: From 1pm-6pm Location: Nagomi Café, Hotel Okura Macau, Ground Floor

澳门精华 | 2019年 8月- 9月 | 95

Essential TEA

品味大师杰作

要数世上最顶尖的糕点大师，Pierre Hermé 必定榜上有名。这位被誉为“甜品界毕加索” 的法国传奇甜点师因革新糕点创作、制作出艺术品般精美的糕品而闻名于世。他最闻名也最为人称道的作品当属马卡龙，当中不乏独特的口味组合。现在游客可于摩珀斯酒店艾尔曼尚廊找到这款顶级甜品，其才华横溢的烹饪团队正在此创作各式令人惊叹的甜点，全都是现点现做。食客不单能够透过 Pierre Hermé 七款经典迷你甜品，一探大师的甜味世界，亦可试尝各种特色甜品，包括 Ispahan 马卡龙甜点 (Ispahan Macaron)、柠檬塔 (Tarte Infiniment Citron)、蒙特贝罗 (Montebello)和 Plaisir Sucré。摩珀斯酒店住客也可品尝住客专享甜点，其创作灵感来自酒店香气。招牌摩珀斯金色牛奶朱古力片(Morpheus Gold – Plaisir Sucré)，更是必尝单品。这款甜点灵感来自著名建筑师扎哈·哈迪德设计的酒店建筑的经典几何图形，卖相惊艳，食客需用小锤敲碎金色的朱古力才能享用。艾尔曼尚廊的咖啡同样出色，咖啡来自法国工艺咖啡烘焙店 L’Arbre à Café，该店以生物动力法制作的香浓咖啡和时令咖啡驰名。出品皆由 Pierre Hermé 本人亲自挑选和诠释。时间：早上 11:00 至下午 10:00 地点：澳门新濠天地摩珀斯酒店一楼艾尔曼尚廊

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TASTE THE MASTERPIECE When it comes to the best pastry chefs in the world, Pierre Hermé must be on the list. This legendary French pâtissier is acclaimed as “the Picasso of pastry and is famous for

innovating and creating art in pastry form. His most famous and appreciated desserts are certainly his macaroons, many of which have unusual flavour combinations. Now, visitors in Macau can discover this world-class dessert at the Pierre Hermé Lounge at Morpheus, where the talented culinary team creates an array of stunning, freshly made-toorder desserts. Guest can not only discover the Pierre Hermé universe with seven assorted petits fours, but also try a range of signature desserts including Ispahan Macaron, Tarte Infiniment Citron, Montebello and Plaisir Sucré. Visitors can also taste an exclusive range of products, available only for Morpheus guests and inspired by the hotel scent. A must-try dish is the Morpheus “Gold” Plaisir Sucré, a visually stunning dessert to match the architecture of the new Morpheus hotel designed by Zaha Hadid. Guests need to use a small hammer to crack the gold chocolate disk before eating. The lounge’s coffee is also outstanding, produced by artisanal French roaster L’Arbre à Café, known for its flavourful biodynamic coffee and seasonal coffee personally handpicked and interpreted by Pierre Hermé. Time: From 11am-10pm Location: Pierre Hermé Lounge, Morpheus at City of Dreams, Ground Floor

Essential TEA

SUMMER SWEETS

甜蜜夏日

想一尝夏日甜蜜滋味? 梦想成真的时刻来了! 位于澳门美高梅的 “甜点 ”Pastry Bar 以杏仁、桃子和蜜瓜等新鲜的夏季食材创作了多款夏日甜点。这些可爱美味的时令糕点只作限期供应，一直到 8 月底为止。当中的亮点有桃子（蜜桃慕丝、榛子及榛子海绵蛋糕），清新夏日天（杏仁达克瓦兹

蛋糕、红莓蜜饯、蜜瓜慕丝配鲜红莓）、蔚蓝海岸（焦糖水果、焦糖奶油酱、柠檬百里香饼碎、柠檬百里香和柠檬百里香慕丝)。还有名为普罗旺斯的杏仁果冻橄榄油海绵蛋糕和蜜糖慕丝。每款 45 澳门元。时间：早上 10:00 至晚上 8:00 地点：澳门美高梅大堂地下甜点

For those who dream of a taste of summer sweets, now is the perfect time to make that dream come true. The Pastry Bar at MGM Macau has created a selection of summer sweets with the freshest summer harvests like apricots, peaches and melons. These adorable yet delicious seasonal cakes are only available until the end of August. Highlights include Peach with peach marmalade, peach mousse, hazelnut and hazelnut sponge; Fresh Summer with almond dacquoise, red fruit compote, melon mousse and fresh red fruit; French Riviera with caramelised fruit, caramel crémeux, lemon thyme sponge, lemon thyme, lemon thyme mousse; and Provence, an olive oil sponge with apricot jelly and honey mousse. Each cake is priced at MOP 45. Time: Between 10am-8pm Location: Pastry Bar, MGM Macau, Ground Floor

澳门精华 | 2019年 8月- 9月 | 97

Essential TEA

法国风情

朱古力爱好者岂能错过丽思酒廊新出的朱古力下午茶？！当艳阳高照，阳光涌进酒廊，宾客会顿觉自己置身于小城其中一个最迷人的用餐环境之中。在法式装潢的优雅酒廊里，宾客享用以朱古力美点为卖点的精致下午茶。其中的松饼也同样突出，除了招牌原味松饼，这里还有难得一见的糖渍橙皮松饼和巧克力及葡萄松饼。套餐还搭配鹅肝酱等典型法国食材，而鹅肝酱是配以什锦面包一同呈上。另外，宾客会发现咸点里也采用朱古力，例如鸡肉色拉便搭配了榛子奶油巧克力、全麦面包、橙味奶酪和开心果配巧克力玉米饼。由于甜品是法国菜的重要元素，所以套餐包含了白巧克力配柠檬奶油海绵蛋糕，香豆黑巧克力配可可酥饼等各式各样朱古力甜点。下午茶套餐（两位 688 澳门元）包含两杯巴黎之花香槟，以添用餐趣味。时间：每日早上 2:30 至下午 5:30 地点：澳门丽思卡尔顿酒店 51 楼 F 丽思酒廊

FRENCH FLAIR Chocolate lovers can’t miss the Chocolate Afternoon Tea Set at The Ritz-Carlton Bar & Lounge. Here, guests can discover one of the city’s most enchanting settings: As the sun lifts into the Macau sky, natural light rushes into lounge. With the elegant French-style interior designs, guests can enjoy an exquisite afternoon tea set which features a range of chocolate delicacies. The scones here are also outstanding. In addition to the signature plain scones, the new tea set also serves confit-orange scones and chocolate-raisin scones which are hard to find anywhere else. The menu features typical French ingredients such as foie gras, which is served with muesli bread. Moreover, guests can also find chocolate in the savoury list, such as the chicken salad with hazelnut ganache, wheat bread, orange mascarpone, and the chocolatepistachio polenta. Since dessert is an important element of French cuisine, the tea set includes a vast array of chocolate sweet treats including white chocolate and lemon Cremeux sponge, dark-chocolate Tonka, gianduja coco shortbread and more. The deluxe tea set (MOP 688 for two) also includes two glasses of Perrier-Jouët bubbly to spruce up the occasion. Time: Every day from 2.30 pm to 5.30 pm Location: The Ritz-Carlton Bar & Lounge, The Ritz-Carlton Macau, 51/F 98 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential TEA

PORTUGUESE EXPLORER

葡式精点

位于金丽华酒店的乘风廊酒吧(Vasco -Bar and Lounge)以知名葡萄牙探险家华士古达嘉马 (Vasco da Gama)命名。酒吧提供宁静的聚会环境，人们亦可在结束忙碌的一天后在此小憩。乘风廊位于酒店二楼，俯瞰酒店热闹的大厅及澳门繁忙的商业地段。食客可在酒吧的下午茶餐中找到葡国传统小吃和甜品，如由盐渍鳕鱼和马铃薯炸成的马介休球，还有他他酱，葡式蛋挞和葡式木糠布丁。除了这些葡式美食，套餐还有各种甜点和咸点。而别树一帜的鸡尾酒系列也相当亮眼，创作灵感来自航海家华士古达嘉马的探险历程

及其他葡国航海者东渡澳门的经历。其中必尝的酒品是 “离家”(Leaving Home)，它是由白兰地混合葡国 Amarguinha 杏仁酒，与蜜糖和新鲜的柠檬汁共同摇制而成，最后加入蛋清形成鸡尾酒的泡沫效果。在这款鸡尾酒中使用一款葡国特产酒来象征探险旅程的开始合情合理。混入 Amarguinha 杏仁美酒的鸡尾酒散发浓郁的杏仁味，而白兰地则为它增添一股辛辣的刚劲。时间：周日至周四下午 3:00 至午夜 12:00 周五至周六下午 3:00 至凌晨 2:00 地点：金丽华酒店二楼 F 乘风廊酒吧

Named after the famous Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama, the Vasco bar and lounge at Grand Lapa offers a quiet space in which to gather and unwind at the end of the day. Situated on the 2nd floor, Vasco gives guests views through our busy lobby and over bustling Macau’s commercial district. Guests can find traditional Portuguese snacks and dessert in the afternoon tea set here, such as Pasteis de Bacalhau: fried bacalhaupotato dumplings and tartar sauce; Portuguese egg tart and Portuguese serradura. In addition to these Portuguese flavours, the tea set also features an array of savouries and desserts. The unique cocktail selection inspired by the Journey of Vasco da Gama and the Portuguese Seafarer to Macau is also outstanding. Must-try item includes Leaving Home, which is made of Brandy and Amarguinha almond liqueur shaken with honey & fresh lemon juice and foamed up with eggwhite. It was therefore logical to use one of Portugal’s products in the cocktail that would represent the beginning of the journey. The gorgeous Amarguinha liqueur provides the primary almond flavor, and the brandy gives its strength and power. Time: 3pm – 12midnight (Sun – Thurs) 3pm – 2am (Fri – Sat) Location: Vasco Bar and Lounge, Grand Lapa. 2/F 쐽 澳门精华 | 2019年 8月- 9月 | 99

Essential CHEF

摘星不易，守星更难 Keeping it is harder than winning 在对话米其林三星粤菜餐厅誉珑轩的行政总厨欧阳文彦时，他常提到 “ 平衡” 一词。毫无疑问，用这个词来概括这位厨师再合适不过了：他谦虚、温和、耐心，用心为客人締造尊尚美馔 During a conversation with Kelvin Au Yeung, the executive chef of three-Michelinstarred Cantonese restaurant Jade Dragon, he often refers to “balance”. Undoubtedly, this is the best word to introduce this chef, a modest, mild and patient person who is attentively cooking top delicacies for guests 文/by EDWINA LIU

欧

阳文彦生长在香港一个从事餐饮业的家庭。他发现自幼就在无形中对烹饪产生了热情，因为家庭背景，他从 15 岁就开始了自己的餐饮职业生涯。欧阳文彦初来澳门时，新濠天地才刚开业。在加入誉珑轩之前，他曾在粤菜餐厅喜迎楼和龙轩担任要职。 2012 年，欧阳文彦在誉珑轩开业之初就加入烹饪团队，并于 2017 年被任命为餐厅的行政总厨。

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誉珑轩以用最新鲜时令食材打造精致美食和令人垂涎欲滴的美味享誉澳门。餐厅装潢由著名设计师操刀设计，服务细致入微极具个性，堪称澳门高级餐饮界的典范。“当我接任行政总厨时，我继续发扬餐厅的精神。我只是不断往菜单上添加精致美味佳肴。” 在欧阳文彦掌舵下，誉珑轩于 2019 年成功摘得米其林三星。“说实话，接手誉珑轩时，我的压力很大，因为当时它已经是两星

hef Au Yeung was born and raised in Hong Kong in a family that worked in the catering industry. He found his passion for cooking unconsciously and at a young age, simply by growing up in that environment and started his career at just 15 years old. The chef came to Macau at the time City of Dreams opened, and before joining Jade Dragon he held key roles at Cantonese

Essential CHEF

米其林餐厅。常言道，创业不易，守业更难。对我来说，最难的是如何一如既往保持餐厅的卓越品质。我要确保我的团队是为同一目标奋斗。” 他还表示，现在顾客对菜肴的要求水准更高，他唯一能做的就是竭力让每一位食客满意。“我常在网上查看针对餐厅的评论。我不怕顾客批评我们，但我会考虑他们的批评是否中肯。如果是，我会和同事们进行讨论，这么做有助于我们提升品质。如果我能联系到发现问题的客人，我一定会邀请他们回来。我想了解他们的想法，并征服他们。”他笑着说。现在，从室内的华丽装潢到细意殷勤的贴心服务再到顶级珍馐美味，誉珑轩致力于为宾客呈献最尊尚餐飨体验。“我们以现代的方式提供最传统正宗的广式菜肴。”使用时令食材是欧阳文彦和餐厅谨遵的重要烹饪理念，他一直都从不同国家甄选最优质的时令食材。“夏天是泰国柚子皮的最佳季节。（那里的）柚子皮又嫩又厚。” 他还透露，他还准备了一份全新的云南野生菌时令餐单。 “我用新鲜松茸、牛肝菌和鸡油菌来烹饪。” 其中一道极致美味是松茸响螺汤。“松茸味道极佳。这两种食材放在一起烹煮简直是最绝妙的美味。” 他娓娓道来。

restaurants Treasure Palace and Lung Heen. In 2012, chef Kelvin became part of the opening team of Jade Dragon and was appointed as executive chef in 2017. The restaurant showcases exquisite culinary masterpieces created with the freshest seasonal ingredients and mouth-watering delicacies. With spectacular designer décor and superlative personalised service, Jade Dragon sets the benchmark for fine dining in Macau. “When I took over as executive chef, I preserved the spirit of the restaurant. I simply kept adding more good dishes to the menu.” During chef Au Yeung’s tenure at Jade Dragon, the restaurant successfully won three Michelin stars in 2019. “Honestly, it was stressful when I took charge of the restaurant because, at that time, it already had two stars. As the saying goes, keeping them is harder than winning. The most difficult part for me is how to uphold the quality of our dishes. I have to make sure my team is working for the same purpose.” The chef also admits that clients now come with a higher standard and the only thing he can do is try his best to satisfy every

diner. “I always read the comments of our restaurant online. I’m not afraid of the criticism but I always check if they are reasonable. If so, I discuss them with my colleagues and it helps us improve. If I have the contact of those guests who identified the problems, I will definitely invite them back. I want to capture their minds,” he says, laughing. Now, Jade Dragon provides the prime experience to guests, from the interior design to service and the food. “We serve the most authentic and traditional Cantonese cuisine in a modern way.” Using seasonal ingredients is an important concept for the chef and the restaurant and he always selects the highest-quality seasonal ingredient from different countries. “Summer is a good time to eat the pomelo peel from Thailand. It’s very tender and thick.” The chef also reveals he has prepared a new seasonal menu with wild mushrooms from Yunnan. “I use fresh Matsutake, Boletus and Chanterelle mushrooms to cook.” One of the highlights is the Matsutake mushroom and conch-meat soup. “Matsutake mushrooms are very flavourful, as is conch meat. There is 澳门精华 | 2019年 8月- 9月 | 103

Essential CHEF

欧阳文彦的另一个重要烹饪理念是达到创新与尊重传统之间的平衡并展现于美食中。“我一定要尊重粤菜的烹饪传统，但同时也要进行创新。这就是为什么我的菜肴要以现代方式呈现，”他解释道。好厨师永远不会满足于原地踏步。欧阳文彦常去当地生鮮市场寻找新菜式的创作灵感。“我去菜市场时，总能发现一些已经被我遗忘了的东西。我总能在生鮮市场上发现最新鲜的食材，也是我的菜肴的完美之选，”他说。“每当我创制了一道新菜，我都会介绍给同事，他们就可以向宾客解释我的烹饪理念。” 食客前往誉珑轩一定不能错过欧阳文彦的招牌菜，如誉珑蜜汁西班牙黑豚梅头叉烧：

“我们的叉烧是用荔枝树木材明火烤成，” 他透露说。另一道让人回味的菜式是独一无二的蓝子鱼花胶汤——“我用 25 年的陈皮烹饪蓝子鱼。汤的味道无与伦比。” 点心也是粤菜中必不可少的重要元素，因为十分普及，宾客对点心的味道非常挑剔。幸运的是，誉珑轩的点心也都精雕细琢。欧阳文彦强烈推荐翡翠玉龙饺：“我用的是法国蓝龙虾。绿色的饺皮是因为用韭菜和菠菜汁和面皮制成。为了保证饺子是最新鲜的，而且饺皮入口够劲道，饺子都是即点即做的。” 尽管已经是业界响当当的明星大厨了，但欧阳文彦依旧十分谦逊。“我觉得自己很幸运。同时，我一定要更加努力工作，让客人们也认为我们是实至名归。” 쐽

nothing more delicious than cooking these two ingredients together.” Showcasing the balance between innovation and respect for tradition is another vital point of chef Au Yeung’s cooking philosophy. “I have to respect the tradition of Cantonese cuisine but I have to be innovative at the same time. That’s why I present dishes in contemporary way,” he explains. A good chef is never satisfied with staying where he is. Kelvin is always visiting the local wet market to find inspiration to create new menu. “When I go to the market, I always find something that I had forgotten. It’s where I always find the freshest ingredients, which is perfect for my dishes,” the chef says. “When I create a new dish, I always introduce it to my colleagues for them to have the knowledge to explain my idea to the guests.” While visiting Jade Dragon, diners can’t miss out on signature dishes such as the Jade Dragon prime-cut barbecue Iberico pork collar: “We use wood from lychee trees to grill the pork,” the chef reveals. Another standout is his unique fish maw and caviar with rabbitfish soup – “I cook the fish maw with 25-year tangerine peel. The soup is very savoury.” Dim sum is also an indispensable element of Cantonese cuisine and it is so common for people that they are very demanding about the taste of this speciality. Fortunately, there is no doubt the dim sum at Jade Dragon is also outstanding. Chef Au Yeung strongly recommends the Jade Dragon Dumpling: “I use French blue lobster to make it. The dumpling skin is green because it is made with chives and spinach juice. To ensure we serve the freshest dumpling with chewy skin, I only make it when guests order it.” Although the chef has been a shining star in the industry, he remains humble. “I think I am very lucky. At the same time, I have to work harder to ensure guests believe we really deserve the awards,” chef Au Yeung says. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2019年 8月- 9月 | 105

Essential NEWS

Grand Hyatt Macau Associates Care for the Community

澳门君悦酒店关爱社区大行动澳门君悦酒店透过探访长者及举办 “全球健康日 ”和 “大湾区凯悦酒店欢乐运动日 ”等一系列活动宣扬康体理念。酒店与平安通呼援中心携手举办了为独居长者探访和义务清洁活动。由酒店员工组成的义工队为 12 户独居长者进行了家居清洁，为长者缔造干净、舒适、安全的生活空间。适逢端午节，义工队还向老人送上了亲手制作的爱心粽子庆贺佳节。为了响应 “全球健康日 ”，澳门君悦酒店也准备了不同的康体活动与宾客及员工一起强健体魄。

Grand Hyatt Macau extends care and wellness through a series of activities including making home visits to seniors as well as participating in the “Global Wellness Day” and the “Greater Bay Hyatt Hotel Fun Sports Day”. The hotel and Tele-Assistance Service Centre “Peng On Tung” of Macau jointly organized a home visit for the solitary-living elderly. A team of volunteers comprising hotel associates carried out household cleaning for 12 different apartments with the aim to create a fresh and safe living environment for the seniors. As Dragon Boat Festival is approaching, associates presented each elderly with handmade rice dumplings to celebrate the festival season. In honor of Global Wellness Day, Grand Hyatt Macau has prepared activities for guests and associates to promote wellness.

Melco hosted 3rd annual Quiz for Knowledge Responsible Gaming Competition

新濠举办第三届负责任博彩「知识宝库」大赛新濠博亚娱乐（新濠）举办第三届负责任博彩「知识宝库」大赛，向员工及社区推广负责任博彩。该大赛于新濠天地举行，作为负责任博彩教育体系的一部份，吸引了 400 名观众出席。参赛团队来自新濠不同部门不同级别的员工。比赛题目则以政府赞助的澳门负责任博彩指导员课程教材作蓝本。新濠主席兼行政总裁何猷龙先生在活动上表示：“新濠一直非常重视负责任博彩。我们一向全力支持特区政府的政策，并将负责任博彩视为本澳及大湾区健康发展的重点。”

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Melco Resorts & Entertainment hosted 3rd annual Quiz for Knowledge Responsible Gaming Competition for colleagues. It is part of the employee education component of Melco’s award-winning Responsible Gaming (RG) System, and was held at City of Dreams before 400 guests. Competition participants comprised employees from all levels and departments within the Company. Teams were tested on RG knowledge based on learning materials from the Governmentsponsored Certificate in Macau Responsible Gambling Advisor Program. At the event, Mr. Lawrence Ho, Chairman and CEO of Melco Resorts & Entertainment, commented: “Responsible Gaming is a top priority at Melco. As ever, we are wholly supportive of the government’s policies which place Responsible Gaming as a key focus area for the healthy development of Macau, both locally and within the Greater Bay Area.”

Essential NEWS

银娱旗下物业斩获澳门环保酒店奖金、银奬银河娱乐集团（GEG）致力于实施多元节能减排措施，努力为环保做出贡献。银娱旗下物业在「 2018 年澳门环保酒店大奖」中获得两项殊荣——澳门大仓酒店获得金奖，百老汇酒店获得银奖。由环境保护局主办、澳门特区政府旅游局协办的「2018 年澳门环保酒店大奖」颁奖典礼在电力公司大楼举行。澳门大仓酒店总经理马志力先生及澳门百老汇工程事务及设备助理副总裁叶建生先生分别代表酒店领奖。

Galaxy Awarded Gold and Silver Prizes at the Green Hotel Awards Galaxy Entertainment Group (GEG) has been running a range of energy saving measures to contribute to the effort. GEG’s flagship properties received two awards at the 2018 Macau Green Hotel Awards – Hotel Okura Macau won a Gold Award while Broadway Hotel received a Silver Award. Organized by the Environmental Protection Bureau and co-organized by the Macau Government Tourism Office, the 2018 Macau Green Hotel Awards Ceremony was held today at CEM. Mr. Niek Hammer, General Manager of Hotel Okura Macau, and Mr. Sam Yip, Assistant Vice President – Engineering & Facilities, Broadway Macau, received the awards on behalf of their respective properties.

MGM Equips Team Members with State-Level Protocol and Events Training

美高梅举办国家级礼宾礼仪知识讲座培训美高梅日前面向酒店 150 位团队成员及来自澳门大学、理工学院、旅游学院及科技大学四间大专院校的教职员举办「共建世界一流国宾接待目的地——国家级别宴会」知识讲座。前礼宾公关外事办公室主任冯少荣先生及钓鱼台国宾馆人事处副科长李雪女士担任主讲嘉宾，与大家分享了有关筹办国家级别宴会和国际礼宾事务的专业知识。是次讲座是美高梅为培养包括学术人员在内的本地人才的人才发展计划系列活动之一，讲座内容涵盖中外礼宾礼仪、国家级别宴会标准、中餐知识等题目。总体而言，系列讲座确保美高梅团队成员能学以致用，以提升澳门作为世界级目的地接待国内外贵宾的能力。

MGM hosted the “Hosting World-class State-level Events in Macau - Seminar on State Level Banquet” for 150 team members and invited faculty members from The University of Macau, Macao Polytechnic Institute, Institute for Tourism Studies and Macau University of Science and Technology. Mr. Daniel Fung, former Director of Protocol, Public Relations and External Affairs Office, and Ms. Li Xue, Deputy Chief of the Personnel Department of Diaoyutai State Guesthouse, were the keynote speakers who shared their vast professional knowledge and experience on hosting state-level banquets and international protocol affairs. This seminar was part of the MGM Talent Development Series to nurture local talent including those from academic communities, covering a wide array of topics such as Chinese and foreign protocol etiquette, state-level banquet standards and knowledge of Chinese cuisine. Overall, this series of seminars ensures that MGM team members are well equipped so as to strengthen the positioning of Macau as a leading destination to host worldclass state-level events.

澳门精华 | 2019年 8月- 9月 | 107

Essential JEWELLERY

奢华精髓 Essential luxuries “精华”指南，澳门顶级购物商场奢靡品牌一网打尽 The Essential guide to luxury brands at Macau’s leading shopping malls

威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian Estrada da Baía de N. Senhora da Esperanca, S/N, Taipa, Macau

永利澳门名店街 Wynn Esplanade Rua Cidade de Sintra, NAPE, Macau

四季‧名店 Shoppes at Four Seasons The Cotai Strip, Estrada da Baía de N. Senhora da Esperanca, S/N, Taipa, Macau

Abiste Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Alfred Dunhill 艾尔弗雷德・登喜路 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 Agnes b. 阿尼亚斯贝 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Aquascutum 雅格狮丹 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Armani Collezioni 阿玛尼黑标 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Audemars Piguet 爱彼表 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

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永利澳门万利酒店 Esplanade at Encore Rua Cidade de Sintra, NAPE, Macau

四季酒店DFS环球免税店 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons

新濠天地 The City of Dreams

The Cotai Strip, Estrada da Baia de N. Senhora da Esperanca, S/N, Taipa, Macau

Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau

金丽华酒店 Grand Lapa Hotel

澳门银河 Galaxy Macau Cotai, Macau

金沙城中心 Sands Cotai Central Estrada da Baia de N. Senhora da Esperanca, S/N, Taipa, Macau

Bally 巴利 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 Bang & Olufsen 奢华视听品牌 B&O One Central 一号广场 Bottega Veneta 宝缇嘉 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心

956-1110 Avenida da Amizade, Macau

一号广场 One Central Avenida de Sagres and Avenida do Dr. Sun Yat Sen, Lot B of Block B of Zone B Nape, Macau

Breguet 宝玑 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Brooks Brothers 布克兄弟 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Burberry 巴宝莉 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地

Brioni 布莱奥尼 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Bulgari 宝格丽 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Boucheron 宝诗龙 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

Canali 康纳利 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Essential RETAIL

Carl F. Bucherer 宝齐莱 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Cartier 卡地亚 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Esplanade at Encore 永利澳门万利酒店

Damiani 达米阿尼 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 Davidoﬀ 大卫杜夫 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 David Yurman 大卫・雅曼 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Céline 赛琳 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场

De Beers 戴比尔斯 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店

Cerruti 1881 切瑞蒂 1881 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Diamond SA 南非钻石 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Chanel 香奈儿 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Diane Von Furstenberg 黛安・冯芙丝汀宝 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Chaumet 尚美 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Chloe 蔻依 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Christian Dior 克里斯汀・迪奥 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Chopard 萧邦 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地 Cigar Emporium 雪茄专门店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心 CK Calvin Klein 卡尔文・克莱恩 One Central 一号广场 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Coach 蔻驰 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地 Cole Haan 歌涵 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

DKNY 唐娜・凯伦纽约 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心 Dolce&Gabbana 杜嘉班纳 One Central 一号广场 Emporio Armani 安普里奥・阿玛尼 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地 Ermenegildo Zegna 杰尼亚 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Europe Watch Company 欧洲坊 One Central 一号广场

Franck Muller 法蘭穆勒 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Gieves & Hawkes 君皇仕 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Giorgio Armani 乔治・阿玛尼 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Giuseppe Zanotti 朱塞佩・萨诺第 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Givenchy 纪梵希 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Glashütte Original 格拉苏蒂 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 GoldVish S.A. Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Gucci 古琦 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心 Hermès 爱马仕 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Hublot 宇舶表 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地

Fabio Caviglia 法比奥 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场

Hugo Boss 胡戈・波士 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 One Central 一号广场 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Fendi 芬迪 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场

IWC 万国表 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河

Ferrari 法拉利 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Jaeger-LeCoultre 积家 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Francesco Biasia Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

澳门精华 | 2019年 8月- 9月 | 109

Essential JEWELLERY Shanghai Tang 上海滩 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Samsonite Black Label 新秀丽黑标 One Central 一号广场 Shiatzy Chen 夏姿・陈 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 S.T. Dupont 法国都彭 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 St. John 圣约翰 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Smalto by Paris Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Jaquet Droz 雅克・德罗 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

Miu Miu 缪缪 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Juicy Couture 橘滋 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Montblanc 万宝龙 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场

Kate Spade 凯特・丝蓓 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Kenzo 高田贤三 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Lancel 兰姿 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 La Perla Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Leonard 李奥纳德 One Central 一号广场 Links of London Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Loro Piana 罗洛・皮雅纳 One Central 一号广场 Louis Vuitton 路易・威登 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Loewe 罗威 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 Luk Fook 六福珠宝 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心 Marc by Marc Jacobs 马克・雅可布之马克 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Marni 玛尼 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Max Mara 麦丝玛拉 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Maubossin 梦宝星 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Mikimoto 御木本珠宝 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Missoni 米索尼 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

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Oﬃcine Panerai 沛纳海 One Central 一号广场 Omega 欧米茄 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心 Macau Landmark 澳门置地广场酒店 Macau Square 澳门广场 Pal Zileri 伯爵莱利 One Central 一号广场 Piaget 伯爵 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Esplanade at Encore 永利澳门万利酒店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河

Stefano Ricci 史蒂芬劳・尼治 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Swarovski 施华洛世奇水晶 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Tag Heuer 豪雅 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Thomas Sabo 汤武士世宝 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Tiﬀany & Co. 蒂芙尼 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Tod’s 托德斯 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 Tonino Lamborghini 兰博基尼 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

Prada 普拉达 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Tourneau 唐龙 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

Rado 雷达 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 The City of Dreams 新濠天地

Tudor 帝舵表 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Ralph Lauren 拉夫・劳伦 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地

Vacheron Constatin 江诗丹顿 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店

Rich Jade 富御珠宝 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Richard Mille 瑞驰・迈迪 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Rimowa 日墨瓦 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Roberto Cavalli Class and Cesare Paciotti Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Roger Dubuis 罗杰杜彼 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Rolex 劳力士 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Salvatore Ferragamo 萨尔瓦托勒・菲拉格慕 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地

Van Cleef & Arpels 梵克雅宝 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Versace 范思哲 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Versace Collection 范思哲高级成衣 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 Vertu 沃尔图 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Vivienne Westwood 薇薇恩・韦斯特伍德 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Yves Saint Laurent 伊夫圣罗兰 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Valentino 华伦天奴 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

collection plume de paon

HONG KONG

PACIFIC PLACE MACAU

IFC

ONE CENTRAL

HARBOUR CITY