ESSENTIAL MACAU. FEBRUARY / MARCH 2019 by ESSENTIAL MACAU

2019年 2-3月第 48期 No. 48 February - March 2019

帝舵表 Tudor 日内瓦的玫瑰 The rose of Geneve

宝马 BMW 全新８系 The new Series 8

拉夫·劳伦 Ralph Lauren 美式风格屹立50年 ཽ 50 years of american style

何家文 Sarah Ho “生命循环” 珠宝系列 The Full Circle project

ISSN:2221-1438

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衷心祝愿您新年吉祥，万事如意！

WISH YOU A PROSPEROUS NEW YEAR!

欢迎阅读本期《澳门精华》，欢迎您到访澳门！农历猪年即将到来，在此时一探繁华喧嚣的濠江恰是最佳时节。佳节临近，澳门历史城区已经高高挂起了各色喜庆灯笼、贴上了红对联，搬出了硕果累累的金桔树。鲜花市场上花团锦簇，大街小巷的文化表演让人流连往返。喜迎新春怎少得了美味佳肴！如果您对澳门本地餐厅不太熟悉，就请选择带有 “Q”标志的餐厅，因为 “Q”表示该餐厅是获颁政府 “星级服务认可计划”的获奖餐厅。盛大年终派对又怎可缺奢侈品牌的辉映？！各大牌子正争相为顾客推出大量的节日礼品。关注《精华》杂志，敲定最佳的节日礼物吧。当然，二月也是爱意弥漫的浪漫之月，我们在本期内容中将带您发掘澳门市面上最好的珠宝品牌，让他们帮您为挚爱选择最好的珠宝，为您提供最卓越周到的服务。作为休闲娱乐之都，澳门游客可以在这里尽情享受各种缤纷乐趣。新濠影汇继「水舞间」的巨大成功后又推出了同等规模的现场表演节目「狂电派」。它不仅是全球第一个集动作、全电动汽车特技表演于一体的室内表演节目，更会带给你有如置身于电影的刺激奇幻体验。我们真诚希望您的澳门之旅愉快开心，在此《精华》杂志全体同仁恭祝您猪年快乐，恭喜发财！

Welcome to the latest issue of Essential Macau, and a warm welcome to Macau. As the city prepares to greet the Chinese New Year of the pig, there is no better time to visit here to experience a bustling holiday. In the lead up to the festival, the Historical Centre is swathed in colorful lanterns, red couplets and fruit-laden kumquat tress. Beautiful flower markets spring up everywhere and sensation cultural performances can be found all over the city. The cornerstone of the celebrations, food is a very important part. For those who are not familiar with Macau local restaurants, please choose the restaurants with a “Q” logo, which means it, is certificated by "Quality Tourism Services Accreditation Scheme". Luxury brands, never ones to miss out on a good party, are making sure there are plenty of festive favours to go around. Follow Essential Macau for your best gift ideas. February, of course, is also the month of love and in this issue we discover the best jewellery brands in Macau offers the finest gemstones and thoughtful services along with the treats for your loved one. As the capital of entertainment, visitors could enjoy vitiates of fun here. Studio City introduce a brand new live show- ELĒKRŎN, similar scale of famous show The House of Dancing Water. It is the world’s first indoors theatrical, action-packed, all-electric car stunt show, but more than that, it is almost like a movie. We do hope you enjoy you visit to Macau, and From all the team here at Essential Macau Kung Hei Fat Choi!

专题特写 FEATURES 10

餐厅 Restaurants 澳门，吃货的天堂

MACAU, A FOODIE’S PARADISE

娱乐 entertainment 「狂电派」——全球最飚奇电能汇演登临澳门

ELĒKRŎN, THE MOST ELECTRIFYING STUNT MACAU

SHOW IN THE WORLD IS SHOWING IN

典雅 elegance 卡地亚——树立20世纪男性的风格感

CARTIER, BUILDING MEN’S SENSE OF STYLE 20TH CENTURY

OVER THE

设计师 designer

何家文携最新项目”生命循环“回归澳门

SARAH HO BROUGHT HER LATEST PROJECT, FULL CIRCLE, BACK TO MACAU

珠宝 Jewellery 浪漫情人节

CELEBRATING VALENTINE’S DAY

名车 Car 宝马推出纯粹豪华跑车GT

BMW HAS LAUNCHED A PURE LUXURY SPORTS GT

名车 Car 至尊风范——宾利欧陆GTC

BENTLEY CONTINENTAL GTC, EXECUTIVE CLASS

名表 watches 李浩强特别设计陀飞轮腕表系列

BOB LEI'S SPECIAL TOURBILLION WATCH COLLECTION

名表 watches MB&F全新HM9再树行业新标杆

WITH THE NEW HM9 MB&F RAISES THE BAR HIGHER

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名表 watches 帝陀——不止是劳力士的姊妹品牌

YOUNGER SISTER OF THE FAMOUS ROLEX, TUDOR IT’S MUCH MORE THAN THAT

名表 watches March LA.B的精致优雅

THE REFINED ELEGANCE OF MARCH LA.B STYLE

时尚 Fashion 蓝调浪漫情怀

BLUE ROMANCE

潮流 Trends 不爱红装爱男装

WOMEN’S FASCINATION WITH MENSWEAR

美妆品 Beauty 精华奢侈美妆品

ESSENTIAL LUXURIES

时尚坊 Bazaar 梦寐以求的爱物

OBJECTS OF DESIRE

人物 Profile RALPH LAUREN, 50-YEAR´S CAREER 拉夫·劳伦，时尚生涯50载

节庆 Celebration “潮”贺新春

CELEBRATING CHINESE NEW YEAR IN STYLE

布料 Fabric 意大利织物贵族

THE NOBLE FIBERS OD LANÍFICIO LUIGI COLOMBO

名厨 Chef 意大利名厨Rodolfo Serritelli为澳门带来地道意式美馔

ITALIAN CHEF RODOLFO SERRITELLI BRINGS HIS MACAU

AUTHENTIC CUISINE TO

102

美酒 wine 源远流长——克拉斯托酒庄

QUINTA DO CRASTO DEEP ROOTS

106

新闻速递 news 酒店业新闻集锦

HOSPITALITY NEWS ROUND-UP

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创办人 Founding partners Bruce Hawker - bruce.h@essentialmacau.com Paulo A. Azevedo - pazevedo@essentialmacau.com 总监及出版人 Director and publisher Paulo A. Azevedo - pazevedo@essentialmacau.com 国际编辑 International editor Fernando Caetano - fcaetano@essentialmacau.com 编辑助理 Editorial Coordinator Cátia Matos - catia.matos@open-media.net 編輯 Editor Edwina Liu - edwina.liu@projectasiacorp.com

上衣 Top: Lion of Porches 长裤 Trousers: 迪奥 Dior 腰带 Belt: Carlos Gil 耳环、戒指 Earrings and rings: Machado Joalheiro 凉鞋 Shoes: 芭林 Ballin

摄影及助理 PhoTogRaPhy: PedRo FeRReiRa, assisTed By ana Viegas 模特 model: BeaTRiz, CenTRal models

活动及特别项目策划 Events and special projects Victoria Man - vman@macausignature.com 高级美术总监 Senior Art director João Cardoso 广告营运部 Advertising sales

集团成员公司及办事处 Group companies and offices 澳门 Macau - Global Asia Media Ltd. 澳门马揸度博士大马路679号, 南方工业大厦第三座9楼Ｈ座 Block C, Floor 9H - Edif. Ind. Nam Fong Nº 679 Av. Dr. Francisco Vieira Machado Macau SAR +853 2833 1258 电话：(phone) +853 2833 1487 传真：(fax) Portugal - Open Media S.A. Av. da Liberdade, nº69 2º B. - 1250-140 Lisboa UK - Open Media Ltd. Open Media Ltd. 40 Craven Street Charing Cross London WC2N 5NG 《澳门精华》欢迎投稿及惠赐广告，但稿件之选刊须以本刊编辑方针为准。若希望有关材料获退还，需于投寄时附上回邮信封。《澳门精华》对广告内容概不负责。 Essential Macau welcomes all contributions but under its editorial guidelines. Materials must be accompanied by self-addressed stamped envelopes if they are to be returned. Essential Macau assumes no responsibility for content of advertisements.

澳门 Macau +853 2833 1258 +853 2870 5909 essential@projectasiacorp.com 战略营销伙伴 Strategic marketing partner Derrick Tran - derrick.tran@projectasiacorp.com

订阅优惠 Subscription 《澳门精华》为奢华时尚双月刊，现读者可以下列优惠价格订阅共6期：香港澳门地区：港币210元；亚洲地区：25美元(空邮)；世界其他国家和地区：30美元 (空邮)。 To receive a copy of this bi-monthly luxury lifestyle magazine, subscribe to Essential Macau for just HKD 210 for Hong Kong and Macau (6 issues), US$ 25 for Asia (by airmail), and US$ 30 for the rest of the world (by airmail). 所有材料 2011 Global Asia Media Ltd版权所有 All materials COPYRIGHT 2011 Global Asia Media Ltd (ISSN): 2221-1438 严禁部分或全部复制本刊内容。 Reproduction in part or in full is strictly prohibited.

8 | FEBRUARY- MARCH 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

特约撰稿人 Contributing writers Álvaro Tavares Ramos, Carlos Torres, Catarina Vasques Rito, César Brigante, Cláudia Baptista, Edwina Liu, Guilherme Marques 特约摄影师 Contributing photographers Pedro Ferreira 中文翻译及校对 Chinese language translator/proofreader PROMPT Editorial Services 翻译：韩珺，吴炜声校译：黎庄琳，徐彩燕澳门发行 Distribution in Macau Michael Rimando - mrimando@essentialmacau.com

《澳门精华》由Global Asia Media Ltd出版， Global Asia Media Ltd为 Essential Macau is published by Global Asia Media Ltd, a company owned by:

+853 2833 1258 合资企业

星级旅游，为您服务！ Quality Tourism, at your service!

作为联合国教科文组织创意城市网络美食范畴的成员城市，澳门无疑是美食家的天堂。而对于初次到访澳门的旅客，光顾带有“Q” 标识的餐厅食肆，是最明智的选择

为

认可及表彰提供优质服务的所有餐厅和食肆，澳门政府旅游局制定了 QTSAS——「星级旅游服务认可计划」。通过认证流程的商户将获得「星级服务商户奖」，其后还可参与角逐「称心服务团队奖」。获「称心服务团队奖」的商户将获颁奖杯一个及现金奖 10,000 澳门元以表嘉许。参与计划的餐厅被划分为四个组别：豪华餐厅，一级餐厅，二级餐厅及饮食和饮料场所。 2018 年度，共有逾 300 间餐饮商户参与计划，其中三家餐厅获颁「称心服务团队奖」，它们是：当奥丰素 1890 意式料理，庭园意大利餐厅，江户日本料理。所有获奖商户的名单公布于旅游局网站。 10 | FEBRUARY- MARCH 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

As a member of the UNESCO Creative Cities Network in the field of Gastronomy, Macau is undoubtedly a foodie’s paradise. For tourists visiting the region for the first time, the restaurants with a “Q” logo are the smartest choices

n order to recognise all restaurants and eateries for providing quality service, Macau’s Government Tourism Office devised the QTSAS — Quality Tourism Services Accreditation Scheme. Merchants who pass the accreditation process receive a Star Merchant Award, and can compete for a Service Star Award. The winner of the latter accolade receives a trophy and a cash prize of MOP10,000 as a token of appreciation. All candidates are classified in four different categories: Deluxe Restaurant, First Class Restaurant, Second Class Restaurant and Food and Beverage Establishments. In 2018, three restaurants, Casa Don Alfonso, Terrazza Italian Restaurant and EDO Japanese Restaurant (Hotel Lisboa), were awarded the Service Star Award amongst over 300 merchants. The full restaurant list can be found at MGTO’s official website.

Essential RESTAURANTS

江户日本料理(葡京酒店)

在「星级旅游服务认可计划」颁奖典礼上，五家江户日本料理获得了「星级服务商户奖」，而葡京酒店内的江户日本料理赢得了「饮食和饮料场所」组别的最高荣誉：「称心服务团队奖」。江户日本料理 1992 年在里斯本酒店成立，是澳门最历史悠久的高端日式餐厅。江户的内饰融汇经典日式和西式风格，采用了金色和黑色色调装饰，散发丝丝豪华感。专业采购团队选购日本最好的时令产品，包括极适合铁板烧的 A5 飞驒和牛肉，新鲜的喜知次鱼，冻毛蟹等。凭借才华横溢的厨师的精湛技艺，这里的招牌菜，如上杂锦寿司，活粒贝牛油烧，海胆烧大虾，以及银鳕鱼西京烧，吸引了无数的回头客。在这个美好的用餐环境里，一边享受周到的服务，一边享用美味的食物，真是美妙无比。

EDO JAPANESE RESTAURANT (HOTEL LISBOA) At the QTSAS Award Ceremony, five EDO Japanese restaurants received the Star Merchant Award, and the branch at Hotel Lisboa won the biggest prize, Service Star Award in the Food and Beverage Establishments section. EDO Japanese Restaurant was founded in 1992 in Hotel Lisboa, and is the oldest high-end Japanese restaurant in Macau. Luxuriously adorned in gold and black, EDO’s interior embraces a classic Japanese style with Western accents.

The professional-procurement team selects the finest and seasonal produce from Japan, including A5 BMS12 Hida Beef, perfect for Teppanyaki, fresh kinki fish, sweet hairy crab and more. With the mastered skill of the talented chefs, the signatures dishes here, such as the Deluxe Assorted Sushi, fried live whelk with butter, grilled king prawn with sea urchin sauce, and grilled cod fish in bean sauce, attract countless returning customers. It’s a wonderful treat to enjoy the delicious food accompanied by this nice environment and thoughtful service.

澳门精华 | 2019年 2月- 3月 | 11

Essential RESTAURANTS

当奥丰素 1890 意式料理

位于新葡京酒店的意大利餐厅当奥丰素 1890 意式料理荣获豪华餐厅组别的「称心服务团队奖」。当奥丰素 1890 意式料理仅提供正宗地道的意大利精髓美食，如海鲜意大利粉。其中一个亮点是意大利南部的著名美味——那坡里薄饼。与其他地方制作的薄饼不同，正宗的那坡里薄饼采用简单新鲜的食材烹制，没有花哨的馅料。它的一个明显特征是：通常酱汁比芝士的份量更多，使得馅饼的中间非常湿软，不容易切片。为了确保薄饼的质量，当奥丰素 1890 意式料理特别聘请了来自那坡里的薄饼厨

12 | FEBRUARY- MARCH 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

师 Maurizio Ferrini，运用电动 Izzo Scugnizzo Napoletano 窑炉以古老的传统方法烘烤薄饼，因此餐厅出品的薄饼独特不凡，成为一道诱人的美食。 “我们非常高兴和感谢「星级旅游服务认可计划」对我们工作的赞赏。这个奖项不仅是我们的荣誉，也是激励我们在未来日子里更努力工作、做得更好的一种认可。我们认为这个颁奖典礼不仅鼓励了我们，也鼓舞澳门所有大小餐厅为顾客提供更好的标准服务，” 当奥丰素 1890 意式料理团队如是说。“认可计划肯定会对澳门旅游业产生积极影响。此类颁奖典礼对于在国际市场上推广澳门特区及其餐厅发挥着至关重要的作用。”

CASA DON ALFONSO Italian restaurant Casa Don Alfonso at Hotel Grand Lisboa took the Service Star Award in the Deluxe Restaurant category. Casa Don Alfonso only provides the true and authentic essence of Italian cuisine, such as seafood casserole and spaghetti. One of the highlights is the signature delicacy of southern Italy — Neapolitan pizza. Different from other pizzas out there, the authentic Neapolitan pizza is prepared with simple and fresh ingredients and no fancy toppings. One of its defining characteristics is that there is often more sauce than cheese, leaving the middle of the pie wet or soggy and not conducive to being served by the slice.To ensure the quality of pizzas, Casa Don Alfonso specially invited pizzaiolo chef Maurizio Ferrini, from Naples, and the generations of ancient tradition in the electric Izzo Scugnizzo Napoletano oven that makes their pizzas what they are, a tantalising treat. “We are very glad and grateful to the QTSAS for appreciating our work. This award is not only an honour for us but also an appraisal that motivate us to work harder and be better in future days. We think this award ceremony does not only encourage us but also all the large and small restaurants in Macau to give better and standard service to the customers,” Casa Don Alfonso’s team said. “It will definitely have positive effect on the Macau tourism sector. This kind of award ceremony is also playing a vital role in promoting the region and its restaurants on the international market.”

Essential RESTAURANTS 庭园意大利餐厅

位于澳门银河酒店的庭园意大利餐厅荣获一级餐厅组别的「称心服务团队奖」。在这里，用餐者可以享受正宗的意大利美食，感受朴实的家庭式用餐体验。优雅的室内设计映衬最佳品质的家具，使餐厅倍添奢华感觉，而餐桌之间空间宽裕，保障了宾客的隐私。所有食材都经用心、精心挑选，采用专业的烹饪技术烹制菜式，带出每道菜中各种食材的最佳味道。餐厅行政主厨 Andrea Fioravanti 精心制作独特的意大利风味美食，精致而又不花巧，非常适合用餐者分享食用，为食客打造地道、温馨的餐膳体验。 “当我们感到很高兴获得「称心服务团队奖」，是对我们 2018 年的努力的认可。我们厨房团队和大厅的前线同事合作无间。这是 Andrea 主厨卓越新鲜的菜肴和健康、和谐团队一起创造的成果。”庭园意大利餐厅团队说。“我们餐厅的服务标准是给顾客带来放松像家一般的环境，并用最好的食材呈现美食与她摁交流。我们希望每一位顾客来到我们餐厅都能感受到不同的味道和新的惊喜。” 쐽

TERRAZZA ITALIAN RESTAURANT The Service Star Award from First Class Restaurants goes to Terrazza Italian Restaurant, at Galaxy Macau. Here, diners can enjoy a choice of authentic Italian cuisine with an unassuming and familystyle dining experience. The elegant interior design with the highest-quality furniture adds to a sense of luxury, with widely spaced tables allowing for privacy. Ingredients are selected with care and passion, prepared using expert cooking techniques to bring out the finest traits of every component in every dish. With executive chef Andrea Fioravanti’s uniquely Italian style of cuisine, guests can be assured of a homey and authentic meal, which is exquisite yet down-toearth, and ideal for sharing. “When Terrazza win the Service Standard Award we feel very happy and grateful for the hard working during 2018. BOH & FOH made a good combination and a perfect married. This

is all fruit of the good and healthy team work and maintains the service standards with an excellent quality and freshness of all products is cooking in Kitchen by Chef Andrea and team.” Terrazza’s team said. “The service Standards in Terrazza is casual to make the guests filling like in home relax and delight food without stress consistency and choosing the right ingredients in market to cooking and satisfying our customers and communicate every meal. We love create special moments to our customers every time to discover at new taste and create a small surprise.” 쐽

澳门精华 | 2019年 2月- 3月 | 13

探索全球最疯狂飞车特技秀<<狂电派 >> Explore an electrifying adventure 「水舞间」取得巨大成功后，全球最疯狂特技秀 <狂电派 > > 登陆澳门 After the phenomenal success of The House of Dancing Water, ELĒKRŎN, the most electrifying stunt show in the world is showing in Macau

提

到澳门最出色的娱乐项目，「水舞间」无疑是首屈一指，表演总是场场爆满。但我们有一个绝好消息带给所有的澳门旅客：近期，澳门新濠影汇——新濠博亚娱乐旗下的另一个旗舰度假村——隆重推出全球首个室內电車特技汇演「狂电派 ELĒKRŎN」请随《精华》杂志一起登临现场，尽情探索这一饱受期待的节目吧！

无与伦比的全电动特技汇演

「狂电派」不但是全球第一个集动作、全电动汽车特技表演于一体的室内表演节目，更会带给你有如置身于电影的刺激奇幻体验。在 75 分钟的节目中，观众将看到表演者飞向一个设定在 2088 年前后的后世界末日世界，在那个世界里，矿物燃料已被消耗殆尽，人们为了生存不得不分成几个大部落。影迷们可以看到电影《速度与激情》（Fast ＆Furious）中令人震撼的场景多台強大的电

14 | FEBRUARY- MARCH 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

hen it comes to the best entertainment in Macau, it goes without saying that The House of Dancing Water is second to none and it is always jam-packed. But there are good news for all guests visiting Macau. Recently, Studio City – another flagship resort owned and operated by Melco Resorts & Entertainment – introduced their latest indoor theatrical stunt show, ELĒKRŎN. Follow Essential Macau as we discover more about the anticipated show.

UNPARALLELED, ALL-ELECTIC STUNT SHOW ELĒKRŎN is the world’s first indoors theatrical, action-packed, all-electric car stunt show, but more than that, it is almost like a movie. During the 75-minute show, audiences will watch as performers fly to a post-apocalyptic

Essential ENTERTAINMENT 动車 — — 包括跑车、定制四驱车、四轮摩托车，越野摩托车、FMX 越野摩托车——全都在观众眼前进行着一连串与死神擦肩而过的飞驰。「 “ 狂电派」为一个以全电能引爆之惊世特技汇演，汇聚狂飙惊险场面，箇中的亡命特技可谓前所未见。综艺馆火光四射，多部以末日浩劫为题材之超级电能车、电单车及特制越野车在电站的故事场景前俯冲飞驰，呈现一幕幕震撼人心的极限表演。”新濠博亚娱乐执行副总裁兼首席营销及品牌总监 Frederic Winckler 先生说。

老幼皆宜的表演元素

「狂电派」并不只针对男性观众设计。除了车手、骑手、跑酷运动员外，狂电派还邀请了许多才华横溢的空中杂技演员奉上优雅的演出。「狂电派」也适合儿童观看：即日起至 2019 年 2 月 26 日，带小孩的家庭可享受特别优惠，套票价格由澳门币 760 元起。一家「童」行免票优惠套票包括 2 张「狂电派」标准成人门票连一张 12 岁或以下小童免费门票。优惠仅适用于购买 3 张或 6 张门票之客人观看 2019 年 2 月 28 日前之表演，且必须购买同一表演场次及票价。可享受特别优惠，但需要有成人陪同观演。

超强工作团队及表演阵容

「狂电派」由著名娱乐建筑、设计事务所 Stufish 制作。你可能对 Stufish 这个名字并不熟悉，但你肯定看过或听说过他们的作品。 2008 年北京夏季奥运会的开、闭幕式就由他们设计，而且他们还设计过麦当娜（Madonna）、 Jay-Z、碧昂丝（Beyoncé）和 Lady Gaga 的音乐会场景。「狂电派」的工作人员至少有 100 人，从舞台工作人员到技术人员再到设计师，甚至因此成了吉尼斯世界纪录保持者——工作人员是在全球９个国家精心挑选而来的。 “我对这些演员和工作人员怀有崇高的敬意，特别是当我在后台观摩过他们的训练环节后，”香港知名演员余文乐说。“对于像「狂电派」这样的现场表演，每一个玩命的特技表演动作都必须配合精准、完美的时间控制。演员需要在准确的时间到达准确的位置，不容有半分差池。”

world set in around 2088, where the world has run out of fossil fuels and people have divided into big tribes to find ways to survive. Movie fans can witness the breathtaking scenes that could be taken from Fast & Furious, with many powerful electric vehicles – including sports cars, customised buggies, quads, trials bikes, – all engaged in a succession of daredevil feats that take place incredibly close to the audience. “ELĒKRŎN is a crazy, death-defying stunt show, unlike anything you have ever seen before. The arena is filled with fireworks and pyrotechnics. Wild post-apocalyptic cars, bikes and buggies leap over each other, as their drivers fight over the abandoned power station where the story is set,” said Mr Frederic Winckler, Executive Vice President, Chief Marketing and Brand Officer of Melco Resorts & Entertainment.

FAMILY-FRIENDLY PERFORMANCE ELEMENTS ELĒKRŎN is not a show only men will enjoy. In addition to the drivers, riders and parkour athletes, the organisation also invites many talented aerialists to showcase a graceful performance. The show is also kid-friendly: Up to 12 yrs old children enjoy free entry. Provided they are accompanied by an adult. From now to 26 February 2019, families with one kid can enjoy a special promotion. Price starting at MOP760, The Kid Goes Free Family Package includes 2 standard adult ELĒKRŎN show tickets and 1 free child ticket for a child up to 12 years old. This promotion is available for the shows from now to 26 February 2019 and only applicable to purchasing a set of 3 or 6 tickets for the same performance date and time and same ticket price. STRONG CREW AND CAST The show is produced by famous entertainment architects Stufish. You may not be familiar

with the name, but you have certainly seen or heard of their work. They designed the 2008 Beijing Summer Olympics opening and closing ceremonies, as well as concert sets for Madonna, Jay-Z, Beyoncé and Lady Gaga. The crew of ELĒKRŎN comprises at least 100 people, from stagehands and technicians to designers, and even Guinness World Records holders – all handpicked for the show from nine countries around the globe. “I have the utmost respect for the cast and crew, especially after my backstage visit to the training session,” said Hong Kong celebrity Shawn Yue. “For a live show like ELĒKRŎN, every death-defying stunt has to be perfectly timed. The cast needs to hit the right spot at the right time, with no mistakes.”

ENTICING DEAL Macau was designated by UNESCO as a Creative City of Gastronomy, so in addition to enjoying the exciting ELĒKRŎN, food hunting is a must while visiting the region. Guests can experience the authentic taste of Macau at Studio City’s Macau Gourmet Walk, where you can also find local treats and quick bites including creamy Portuguese egg tarts, delicious pork chop buns and classic Macanese cuisine in the Dai Pai Dong area. For those who wish to enjoy the show and food at the same time, there is a special package priced from MOP 520 for guests who book tickets until March 31. This includes one C Reserve ticket to ELĒKRŎN and a lunch buffet for one at Spotlight, a cinema-themed buffet restaurant serving international cuisine. To learn more about the tickets’ purchase method, visit the show’s official website: www.elekronshow.com 쐽

赏汇演‧享佳肴

澳门已被联合国教科文组织评为“创意城市美食之都”，因此，除了观赏让人血脉贲张的「狂电派」外，寻找美食也是游客访澳期间不可错过的活动之一。游客可以前往新濠影汇的「澳门食街遊」去品尝正宗的澳门风味，尽情品味本地美食和快餐，如嫩滑的葡式蛋挞、美味的猪扒包，还可以在大排档区域一尝澳门土生菜。如果希望同时欣赏表演和享受美食，新濠影汇特别推出了“狂电派”赏汇演‧享佳肴套票，每位价格澳门币 520 元起，推广期截止至 3 月 31 日。套票包含「狂电派」C 区成人标准门票一张及「星汇餐厅」环球海鲜自助午餐一位。「星汇餐厅」是一间以电影主题装饰的自助餐厅，荟萃全球各地地道佳肴。欲了解购票方法，请登陆官网： www.elekronshow.com 쐽 澳门精华 | 2019年 2月- 3月 | 15

Essential ELEGANCE

卡地亚和男性的优雅 Cartier and male elegance 在当今男性风雅大受追捧的时代，卡地亚以势压人，在在提醒我们在 20 世纪建立男性风格感是何等重要 At a time when male sophistication is so celebrated, Cartier pulls rank to remind us how important it was in building up men’s sense of style over the 20th century 文/by CÉSAR BRIGANTE

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Essential ELEGANCE

从

手表到珠宝，香水到眼镜，凭籍历史传承，法国品牌卡地亚建立了一个男性的雅致世界。奢华而又不失实用和精致，创新精神和永恒美学赋予卡地亚令人羡慕的永恒地位，使其成为今天依然大受欢迎的品牌，与 20 世纪初刚诞生时一样。卡地亚有道理提醒我们它的不朽传奇，同时其历史故事也是一门三杰三兄弟在三个不同城市——巴黎，伦敦和纽约——的故事。尽管相隔各地，个性不同，他们依然创造出一个独特的美学架构，延至今天。巴黎人路易斯(Louis)于 1899 年定居于巴黎 Rue de la Paix 街 13 号，在那里他创作了他那个时代最具标志性的手表和珠宝作品，如 Tank 和 Santos de Cartier 或 Trinity 戒指。他最小的弟弟雅克 (Jacques)则选择了伦敦萨维尔街，他不但与英国王室交往，并经常远游印度和巴林，从而培养出一种精致的审美感；而在 1909 年，皮埃尔(Pierre)钟情纽约的前卫和创意动力，前往纽市，品牌一些更大胆的作品因而横空出世。除了当之无愧地备受推崇之外，卡地亚一再强调的这三兄弟的男款作品提醒着我们，他们遗留下来的经典和传统仍然充满活力，依然优秀，而且不断适应当今时代而改变，但不变的是，其创造者开拓赋予的同样的创造性精神和永恒的优雅。 쐽

rom watches to jewellery, perfumes to glasses, the French brand’s legacy helped build a sophisticated male universe. Luxurious yet equally practical and meticulous, its innovative formula and everlasting aesthetic granted it an enviable, timeless status that makes it as

desirable today as in the beginning of the 20th century, when it started being designed. As Cartier makes a point of reminding us, this is also the story of a family of three brothers separated by three cities — Paris, London and New York — who, despite the distance and idiosyncrasies, were able to create an unmistakable aesthetic building that lives on today. Louis, the Parisian, settled at 13 Rue de la Paix in 1899, where he created some of the most iconic watches and jewellery pieces of his time, such as the Tank and the Santos de Cartier or the Trinity ring. Jacques, his youngest brother, chose Saville Row’s London, where he mingled with the British royal family, travelled frequently to India and Bahrain and cultivated a refined aesthetic sense; while in 1909 Pierre favoured New York’s avant-gardism and creative drive, which lead to the conception of some of the maison’s bolder pieces. In addition to a well-deserved homage, the three brother’s work on behalf of men’s style emphasised by the brand serves as reminder that their legacy is still alive and well, continuously transformed for present times, with the same creative spirit and timeless elegance coined by its creators. 쐽

澳门精华 | 2019年 2月- 3月 | 17

Essential DESIGNER

宝石的生命之旅 The life journey of the gemstone 一年后，屡获大奖的的珠宝设计师 Sarah Ho（何家文）带着自己的最新珠宝系列 — —Full Circle 重返澳门 One year later, award-winning jewellery designer Sarah Ho brought her latest project, Full Circle, back to Macau 文/by EDWINA LIU

如

今，全球各地的珠宝品牌足以让人眼花缭乱。珠宝鉴赏家们更是不断留意着新问世的高级珠宝。为了吸引珠宝专家，宝石的“４C”要素——颜色、净度、切工和重量——一定要至臻完美，当然，真正让他们动心的还是宝石背后的灵魂故事。香港出生的珠宝设计师 Sarah Ho 深知这一点。在自己的最新项目——Full Circle （生命循环）系列中，她就携手 Gem Forest 宝石和 Suwaidi Pearls 珍珠共同讲述珠宝的故事。Gem Forest 和 Suwaidi Pearls 是各自所在业界的领军品牌。 Sarah Ho 亲自精心甄选了这两家公司珍藏的宝石，以它们为主角阐述全新系列的故事。 18 | FEBRUARY- MARCH 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Full Circle 系列的主要特点在于宝石的非凡品质和稀有性，历尽艰辛，品牌追根溯源每枚宝石的故事和历史。 “作为设计师，我喜欢透过设计来讲故事。我一向喜欢与客户分享他们购买的首饰的更多信息，从而使珠宝更有意义，”Sarah Ho 表示。“要追溯每颗宝石的渊源非常困难。但我会竭尽所能了解更多的信息分享给顾客，比如原石的大小，切割和设计的原因。由于合作伙伴们和我志同道合，我才得以呈现这些迷人的作品。” 说到与合作伙伴亲密的关系，Sarah Ho 回忆起一件有关一颗约 20 克拉的蓝宝石原石的故事。她的宝石切割工深谙宝石的形状和

owadays, there is no lack of jewellery brands or designers in the world. Jewellery connoisseurs in particular are always on the lookout for high-end pieces. To attract these experts, the quality of the “four C’s” — colour, clarity, cut and carat — must be perfect, of course, but what truly touches them are the stories behind the gemstones. Sarah Ho, Hong Kong-born jewellery designer, knows this very well. She has partnered with Gem Forest and Suwaidi Pearls, two leading companies within their field, for her latest project — the Full Circle collection. Personally selecting one-of-a-kind gems from

Essential DESIGNER

尺寸，他宁愿把宝石切割成最完美的形状，而不是只为保留其大尺寸。此次澳门展示的系列作品中有一对帝王托帕石耳环。这对红色、橙色耳环中用到的宝石来自巴西。7.34 克拉的樱桃红帝王托帕石被私人藏家收藏了八年，而且非常稀有—— 所有的帝王托帕石中仅有 0.1%是樱桃红色。 “橙色的帝王托帕石虽然不那么稀少，也非常珍贵，很难在市场上看到，”她解释说。粉色和橙色的海螺珍珠也是极为罕见的，每 10,000 个海螺中才能找到一颗珍珠，而这些珍珠中又只有十分之一才能达到珠宝品质。此对耳环中每颗海螺珍珠的重量都超过 7 克拉。另一款引人注目的作品是一对 18 克拉白金镶嵌珍珠母贝、钻石和阿拉伯珍珠的耳环。“ 这颗 11.07 克拉的珍珠发现于 2005 年，是 21 世纪首十年里发现的最大、品质最佳的珍珠，”Sarah Ho 透露说。为了与系列主题相呼应，Sarah 尽力使设计更具天然气息，她更为钟意圆形的宝石，作品中用了许多尺寸较小的圆形宝石点缀在主石周围，以彰显珍罕的主石。项目另一个核心想法是为整个珠宝制作过程划上圆满句号，也就意味着品牌将会投资发展这些宝石和珍珠发源地的环保和社区项目，以确保这些地区的发展和未来繁荣。 20 | FEBRUARY- MARCH 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

their private collections, Sarah placed these as the focus of the range. The key feature of Full Circle at the moment is the exceptional quality and rarity of the gemstones, and the brand can trace the story and history of every gem, which is extremely hard. “As a designer, I love telling my stories through my design. And I always like to give my client more information about the jewellery they bought and make this piece more meaningful,” Ho said. “It’s really hard to trace back the life journey of every gemstone. But I really want to tell my clients everything I can about the jewellery, such as the size of the rough stone, the reason of the cutting and design. Thanks to my partners and craftsmen who have the same ethics, I can showcase these wonderful pieces.” Highlight a close relationship with her collaborators, the designer recalls the case of a rough stone of blue sapphire of around 20ct. Her stonecutter knows the best shape and size of the gems and he wished to cut a perfectly shaped stone rather than just making it big. One of the pieces displayed in Macau this time was a pair of Imperial Topaz earrings. The

Essential DESIGNER

“当我开始与 Gem Forest 的同伴一起工作时，我考虑的是为我们的系列找到慈善机会。我的合伙人告诉我，他想在马达加斯加的热带雨林中植树，因为他曾在那里开过矿，”Sarah Ho 说。 Full Circle 系列的宝石来自坦桑尼亚、马达加斯加、莫桑比克、巴西和越南，珍珠则是在阿拉伯湾的 Al Ram 湖中养殖的。 Full Circle 项目将在马达加斯加植树，并清洁阿拉伯湾中的污水。“我们的利润也会用来教育 Ras al-Khaimah 渔村的渔民如何保护大海，这里是系列中阿拉伯戒指的发源地，”她表示。 Full Circle 项目启动已近一年，Sarah Ho 已经为系列设计了７件高级珠宝。“将来，我会将自己的设计范围拓宽到 Full Circle 中，不只局限于高级珠宝。许多客户喜欢我的想法，希望能为环境保护和社区建设出力，但并不是所有人都买得起那些昂贵的珍贵珠宝，” Sarah Ho 说道。 쐽

stones of this set of red and orange earrings were sourced from Brazil. The 7.34ct cherry-red Imperial Topaz was kept in a personal collection for eight years and is very rare — only approximately 0.1% of all Imperial Topaz has this colour. “The orange Imperial Topaz is less rare, but still very precious, you hardly find it out there,” Ho explained. The pink and orange conch pearls are also incredibly rare, only 1 in every 10,000 conch shells contains a pearl, and only a tenth of these are of jewellery quality. The total carat weight of each conch pearl is more than 7ct. Another eye-catching piece is a pair of 18ct white-gold earrings with mother of pearl enamel, white diamonds and Arabian Pearl. “This 11.07ct pearl was discovered in 2005 and it is the best and the biggest from that decade,” revealed the jewellery designer.

To echo the name of the project, Sarah tries her best to make the designs more organic and prefers rounded gemstones, with many smaller ones around the main gem to highlight the brightness of the rare stones. Another main core idea of the project is to finish the full circle of the whole process of making a jewellery piece, which means the brand will be invested in environmental and community projects where the gemstones and pearls originate, to ensure the future prosperity of these areas. “When I started to work with my partner from Gem Forest, I was considering the possibility of finding some charity links for our collection. And my partner told me that he really wants to plant trees in the rainforest in Madagascar, because he used to have a mine there,” Ho said. The gemstones for this collection are sourced from Tanzania, Madagascar, Mozambique, Brazil and Vietnam, and the pearls are farmed at the Al Rams lagoon in the Gulf. The Full Circle Project will begin work in Madagascar and the Arabian Gulf by planting trees and cleaning the waters in the bay. “Our profit also gives back to the fishing village just off the shore of Ras al-Khaimah, which is the origin place of the Arabian Ring, to educate the fishermen there to protect the sea,” she explains. The Full Circle Project started nearly one year ago and Sarah Ho has since designed seven high-jewellery pieces for the collection. “In the future, I will expand all my design range into Full Circle, not only fine jewellery. Many clients love my idea and want to help the environment and community, but not everybody can afford those very precious pieces,” Ho said. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2019年 2月- 3月 | 21

Essential JEWELLERY

珍宝献给珍爱的人 Treasures for your treasured one 情

人节将至，和挚爱一起庆祝、颂扬这个浪漫时节的时候又到了。想让 2019 年的情人节永远铭刻在爱人的记忆中吗？何不为她 /他选择一件毕生难忘的永恒礼物 ?!和花与巧克力不同，一件珠宝会让她/他珍藏多年。作为亚洲最受欢迎的购物天堂之一，澳门让游客有机会在多个顶级珠宝品牌中甄选出最合适的情人节礼物

格拉夫婚嫁系列 Graff Bridal

22 | FEBRUARY- MARCH 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

ebruary is a month to celebrate with your loved one. Make Valentine's Day 2019 the one to remember, for the best reasons, with a timeless gift. Unlike flowers or chocolates, a piece of jewellery is something they can cherish for years and years to come. As one of the popular shopping paradises in Asia, Macau offers an array of top-tier jewellery brands for visitors to choose from

澳门精华 | 2019年 2月- 3月 | 23

Essential JEWELLERY

格拉夫

钻石恒久远，世代永流传！没有什么宝石能像钻石一样拥有这样神圣的意义，而英国跨国珠宝品牌格拉夫（Graff）的钻石更是誉满天下。“格拉夫只严选钻石中的顶尖佳品， ”格拉夫创始人和公司主席劳伦斯 ·格拉夫（Laurence Graff）曾如此说。的确，半个多世纪以来，格拉夫的名字代表着最珍罕的钻石。在情人节和爱人互定终身不仅浪漫唯美，更意义非凡。如果您希

GRAFF Diamonds are forever. No other gemstones have a more blessed meaning, and the diamonds from British multinational jeweller Graff are among the most famous in the world. “The House of Graff stands for the finest, the rarest and only the very best stones,” said Laurence Graff, the company’s founder and chairman. It is true enough that Graff has represented the rarest gemstones for over half a century. Valentine's Day is a beautiful and meaningful time to commit your love to one another with an engagement. For those looking for a piece of history to celebrate this

day, Graff offers the unique opportunity to own a historic Lesedi La Rona diamond. The 1,109-carat stone made history as the largest rough diamond found in more than a century, and the second largest ever discovered. Graff cut it into just 67 sensational diamonds, ranging in size from under a carat to in excess of 100 carats. Each gem has a top D colour, the highest grade for a diamond, and is certified by the Gemmological Institute of America (GIA). Graff has opened three Macau retail salons located at Wynn Macau, Wynn Palace and Studio City, which guests are welcome to visit and learn more about this unique and rare piece. Then, based on your preferences, budgets and available stocks, a professional gemmologist will assist you in finding your favourite ones and arrange stones to be transferred for further viewing and sizing.

望用一件充满历史意义的订婚戒指来庆贺这一天，格拉夫为您提供了一个千载难逢的机会拥有缔造历史的“Lesedi La Rona” （我们的光）钻石。重达 1,109 克拉的 “Lesedi La Rona”钻石原石是一个多世纪以来发现的最巨型钻石原石，是有史以来发现的第二大钻石原石。格拉夫将 “Lesedi La Rona”钻石切割为 67 颗钻石，尺寸从不足 1 克拉至 100 克拉以上。每一颗钻石的色级都为 D 色，即钻石色度的最高级别，并且经美国宝石学院（GIA）认证。格拉夫在澳门拥有三家专卖店，分别位于永利澳门、永利皇宫和新濠影汇，宾客可以前往以上专卖店了解更多有关 “Lesedi La Rona”钻石的详情。当然，店内专业的宝石专家会按照您的喜好、预算和品牌存货协助您找到最心仪的款式，并安排调度宝石给您进一步查看和调节尺寸。 Graff 格拉夫 Lesedi La Rona

24 | FEBRUARY- MARCH 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential JEWELLERY

海瑞·温斯顿

1932 年，美国珠宝商海瑞·温斯顿（Harry Winston）在纽约兴建起了自己的珠宝帝国。品牌享有“钻石之王”、“明星珠宝商”的美誉。 80 多年来，品牌吸引了几代人，其著名的粉丝更是不计其数，从好莱坞传奇到国际名流。在为品牌订婚戒指甄选钻石时，海瑞·温斯顿只选择顶尖级别的钻石 — — D、E 和 F 级别的钻石。这些钻石都是最为纯净、价值最高的。送给女友的情人节礼物可以选择海瑞 ·温斯顿的 Winston Candy 糖果系列。该系列的灵感可追溯至品牌于 1950 至 60 年代期间的珍藏设计稿，它们呈现色彩绚丽、让人赞叹的鸡尾酒戒指设计。系列以绚丽多姿的彩色宝石为主石，如马达加斯加橙色石榴石、粉色蓝宝石和碧玺等。每颗珍稀宝石都配以璀璨钻石和色调相衬的夺目宝石，交相辉映。Winston Candy 糖果系列是海瑞 ·温斯顿的工艺大师们耗时一年多为珠宝收藏家们精心手工打造的。澳门唯一的一间海瑞 ·温斯顿专卖店位于澳门银河™综合度假城时尚汇。品牌还为客户提供订婚、结婚戒指私人刻字服务。顾客还可以请专卖店策划现场求婚项目。提前通知专卖店员工，他们会为您和爱人奉上一个永生难忘的浪漫时刻。

糖果系列16.69克拉石榴石戒指

Harry Winston Candy collection 16.69ct OV Mandarin Garnet ring

糖果系列19.67克拉碧玺戒指

Harry Winston Candy collection 19.67ct CU Tourmaline ring

HARRY WINSTON American jeweller Harry Winston launched his jewellery empire in 1932 in New York City. Renowned as the "King of Diamonds", and the "jeweller to the stars", the brand has captured generations of famous faces, from Hollywood legends to international celebrities, for over eight decades. For its engagement rings, Harry Winston selects diamonds only from the top three grades — D, E, and F. These gems are deemed colourless and the most valuable. Treat your girl to something sweet this Valentine’s Day with the Winston Candy collection. With it, the American brand pays homage to a series of archival sketches dating back to the 1950s and ‘60s that featured brightly coloured cocktail rings in unexpected shades, using eye-catching centre stones such as the finest mandarin garnets, pastel sapphires and tourmalines. Each precious stone is paired with the finest diamonds and vibrant gems. Harry Winston’s master craftsmen worked hand-inhand for over a year to create this collection for jewellery connoisseurs.

The region’s only Harry Winston salon is located at The Promenade Shops at Galaxy Macau. The brand provides clients with a personalised engraving service on engagement rings and wedding bands. Guests can also arrange a wedding proposal on the location. Inform the staff there in advance and they will prepare a memorable moment for you and your loved one.

糖果系列16.32克拉红尖晶石戒指

Harry Winston Candy collection 16.32ct OV Red Spinel ring 澳门精华 | 2019年 2月- 3月 | 25

Essential JEWELLERY 宝诗龙HOPI蜂鸟造型戒指，白金和玫瑰金戒指，镶嵌一颗摩根石，铺镶钻石和蓝宝石

Boucheron Hopi the hummingbird ring in pink gold, set with morganite, sapphires and diamonds

宝诗龙

法国珠宝品牌宝诗龙（ Boucheron）今年迎来了自己 160 岁生日。品牌创立于 1858 年，创始人菲德烈克 ·宝诗龙（ Frédéric Boucheron）是第一位在奢侈时尚的巴黎皇家宫殿区开设珠宝店的珠宝商。宝诗龙先生是位冒险家。为了找到最优秀的宝石，他亲自去过许多不同的矿区。成立 160 年来，宝诗龙一直走在珠宝设计的前沿，其设计的许多经典首饰，如 Point d’interrogation 巴黎常春藤问号项链，还引领了流苏金饰及多种佩戴方式首饰的潮流。这些大胆的设计让宝诗龙先生在世界博览会上出奇制胜。戒指向来都是贴心的情人节礼物。她/他既可以日常佩戴表明自己已经心有所属，也可以在特别珍贵的时刻让戒指来表明心意。对于喜欢经典永恒设计的恋人而言，可以选择宝诗龙 Quatre Radiant 系列的戒指。不同材质碰撞出大胆的现代风格设计，黄金饰品融入织物质感，个性独特又美轮美奂。 Quatre Radiant Edition 系列是整个 Quatre 系列大家族中最具几何图形感的系列。系列戒指搭配铺镶钻石技术和 Grosgrain 罗缎带主题，Grosgrain 罗缎带是象征着巴黎高级订制时装和弗雷德里克·宝诗龙祖辈的布料。有眼光的收藏家一定不要错过 Collection of Animals 动物系列。几乎所有的珠宝品牌都有一个优雅的动物主题设计，宝诗龙当然也不例外。但宝诗龙的动物系列中展现了其他珠宝品牌设计中罕见的物种，如蜂鸟、狼，以及北极熊和狮子。宝诗龙顶级工艺大师们精心打造的动物造型，镶嵌祖母绿或蓝宝石，会成为您珍贵而独特的忠实伴侣。宝诗龙在澳门仅设有一家专卖店，位于壹号广场。受到巴黎旺多姆广场 26 号专卖店的启发，澳门专卖店洋溢着法式优雅和品味。宝诗龙不断挖掘与满足客户的愿望。顾客可以在专卖店提出自己的独特要求，品牌工艺大师们会为顾客与挚爱打造出独一无二的珠宝。 26 | FEBRUARY- MARCH 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

BOUCHERON French brand Boucheron is celebrating its 160th anniversary this year. It was founded in 1858 by Frédéric Boucheron, the first jeweller to open a shop under the arcades of the Palais Royal, the centre of Parisian luxury at the time. Mr Boucheron was an adventurer. In order to find the best gemstones, he went to different mines by himself. A pioneer of jewellery design for 160 years, Boucheron has designed iconic pieces such as the Point d’Interrogation, a question-mark shaped necklace, and trends like the gold drape and multiple-wear jewellery. These bold designs made Mr Boucheron a big winner at World Fairs. Rings are always thoughtful gifts for Valentine’s Day. He or she can wear a ring every day to symbolize their relationship or on a special, treasured occasion. The Boucheron Quatre collection is a subtle option for couples

that love classic and timeless designs. A wonderful clash of materials, this modern and boldly designed collection offers a distinctively striking combination of different golds and textures. The Quatre Radiant Edition is the most graphic of all the collection’s pieces. The band brings together a pavé diamond setting with the Grosgrain motif, the emblematic fabric of Parisian haute couture and of Frédéric Boucheron's ancestors. A discerning collector cannot miss the Collection of Animals. A timeless, animalthemed design can be found in the portfolios of nearly all jewellery brands, and Boucheron is no exception. However, the French icon features species rarely seen in jewellery, such as hummingbirds or wolfs, along with polar bears and lions. Set with emeralds or sapphires by Boucheron’s gifted artisans, animals become precious and exclusive companions. The brand only has one boutique in Macau, located at One Central. Inspired by 26 Place Vendôme, the space represents the finest elegance and a taste of France. Boucheron seeks to understand clients’ wishes. Customers can place their unique order at the boutique, and the artisans will help them customise a one-off piece especially for them.

宝诗龙SERPENT BOHÈME双宝石戒指，小号图案，玫瑰金双宝石戒指，铺镶玫瑰榴石

Boucheron SERPENT BOHÈME TWO-STONE RING, S MOTIFS,Two-stone ring set with rhodolite garnet, in pink gold

尚美巴黎

法国著名珠宝品牌尚美巴黎（Chaumet）于 1780 年在巴黎创立。由于中国知名演员黄晓明和 Angelababy 在婚礼上选择了价值超过 150 万美元 Joséphine Aigrette Impériale 加冕 ·爱鹭羽 ·冠冕戒指，韩国著名演员宋慧乔和宋仲基在婚礼上选择了品牌的 Bee My love 爱巢婚戒，尚美巴黎一跃成为亚洲最受欢迎的婚礼珠宝系列品牌。尚美巴黎被誉为 “情感珠宝商 ”，品牌的婚尚系列充满了浪漫的浓情蜜意。经典的 Joséphine 系列是向品牌缪斯女神约瑟芬皇后致敬，同时彰显约瑟芬皇后的超凡品味。加冕在每位新娘手指上的戒指灵感都源自约瑟芬皇后的后冠。 Joséphine Aigrette Impériale 戒指是品牌最受追捧的戒指。铂金双嵌戒圈中央位置上，镶嵌着一颗重量不低于 2.2 克拉的梨形切割钻石，周围密镶明亮式切割钻石。这款尚美巴黎戒指是按照约瑟芬皇后的后冠精确复制的。对于现代的新娘而言，最完美的选择当数一款中间镶嵌着 1.2 克拉的枕形切割钻石、以碎钻装点排列出轻盈优雅线条的款式。尚美巴黎在全球各地分布着 80 余间专卖店，其中包括位于澳门银河 ™综合度假城时尚汇和澳门威尼斯人酒店的两家专卖店。 쐽

尚美Les Mondes de Chaumet - Chant Du Printemps 18K白金红宝石项链，镶嵌缟玛瑙、蛋形切割红宝石、方形切割红色石榴石、长梯形切割及明亮式切割钻石

Chaumet Les Mondes de Chaumet - Chant Du Printemps necklace in white gold, set with onyx, cabochon-cut rubies, square-cut rhodolite garnets, and baguette-cut and brilliant-cut diamonds

尚美Joséphine加冕•爱系列鹭羽•冠冕戒指，2.20克拉钻石、铂金

Chaumet Josephine Aigrette Imperiale ring,2.20 carats diamond, Platinum

CHAUMET French jewellery maison Chaumet was founded in 1780, in Paris. The brand became one of the most popular choices for bridal collections in Asia thanks to Chinese celebrity couple Angelababy and Huang Xiaoming, who chose a Joséphine Aigrette Impériale ring valued at over US$ 1.5 million, and Korea’s famous celebrity couple Song Hye-kyo and Song Joong-ki, who chose Chaumet’s Bee my Love wedding bands. Known as the "Jeweller of Feelings", Chaumet’s bridal collection is very romantic and thoughtful. The iconic Joséphine collection pays homage to the brand’s muse of the same name, echoing the Empress’s personal taste. The rings crowning the finger of each bride are inspired by her tiara. The Joséphine Aigrette Impériale ring is one of the brand’s most popular models. An elegant, pearshaped 2.2-carat diamond (or more) takes centre stage on a double-platinum band, fully pavéd with brilliant-cut diamonds. This Chaumet ring is an exact replica of the Empress’s tiara. With its clean, diamond-embellished lines, topped with a cushioncut, 1.2-carat diamond, it is the perfect choice for modern brides. Chaumet can be found in more than 80 stores in the world, including Macau, at The Promenade Shops, Galaxy Macau, and The Venetian Macao. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2019年 2月- 3月 | 27

Essential CAR

信奉激情 True Believer 随着 SUV 铺天盖地的流行起来，宝马却反其道而行推出了一款纯粹的豪华跑车 GT。看到有人仍然有激情相信投资汽车有回报，真是一种安慰 Amidst the SUV invasion, BMW has launched a pure luxury sports GT. It is good to know that someone believes it is still worth investing in automotive passion 文/by GUILHERME MARQUES

0世纪70、80年代，宝马以其制造的卓越跑车而闻名遐迩。当梅赛德斯-奔驰正专注于打造大方持重的卓越产品以打造强大的品牌形象时，宝马却选择为旗下的每一款车型增添一抹仙尘，使之彰显驾驶的乐趣。宝马的问题在于，目前的汽车市场更关注如何在 5 秒内将智能手机与汽车联网，而不是发动机的马力强弱。顾客买车时，信息娱乐屏幕的尺寸似乎比精心调校的底盘更重要，驾驶 /停车辅助设备与汽车在弯道上的性能表现相比，前者更受重视。由于如此种种原因，社会上对汽车形象日益看重，SUV 运动型实用汽车受到人们的

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n the 1970s and ‘80s, BMW created a very particular reputation as a constructor of sports cars. While Mercedes-Benz focused on the quality and sobriety of its products to build its image as a strong brand, the Bavarian emblem chose to add some fairy dust to each and every one of its models, so as to make them a symbol of driving pleasure. The problem for BMW is that the current market is more interested in knowing how to connect a smartphone to the car in less than 5 seconds than how much horsepower is produced by the engine under the bonnet. The size of the infotainment screen is more important

Essential CAR

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Essential CAR

过度推崇，甚至连宝马，这个激情驾驶的王者，也不得不屈尊适应市场需要。因此，品牌的产品目录中已经列出了从 X1 到 X7 共七款款不同的 SUV 车型。然而，无论宝马 SUV 的动力比业界其他 SUV 强大多少，它永远都不可能和宝马的轿车或双门轿跑相提并论。考虑到 SUV 的利润如此丰厚，宝马却推出了全新８系几乎算是一个奇迹。但这足以证明宝马依旧对纯粹驾驶的重要性充满信心，而且坚信有人会忙着享受 V8 提供的 500 马力的强大动力，而根本顾不上去接电话。第一批宝马８系诞生于 1990 年，是一款纯豪华 GT 轿车，舒适无比，速度非凡。几乎和当时所有重要的宝马车型一样，这款车已经成为许多收藏家们追捧的车型。如 E31 一样，全新８系 — — 代码 G14— — 并非要直接取代６系（即便已经退出市场），但之所以命 30 | FEBRUARY- MARCH 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

than a finely tuned chassis, and the driving/parking aids weigh more than the behaviour of the car on a bend when it comes to signing the purchasing papers. For these and other reasons, which matter to a society that is increasingly more concerned with the image that each one projects, SUVs have gained inordinate importance, and even BMW, once the biggest champion of driving passion, had to adapt. Consequently, the brand’s catalogue today features seven different SUVs, from the X1 to the X7. And however more dynamic a BMW SUV is than an SUV from any other brand, it will never be up there with its saloon or coupé. With SUVs being so profitable, it is almost a miracle that the new 8 Series even exists. Above all, it is proof of how BMW still believes

that driving pleasure is relevant and that there are people who are too busy with a V8 offering more than 500hp to even remember to pick up the phone. The first 8 Series emerged in 1990 as a GT of pure luxury, able to cross continents in perfect comfort at unimaginable speeds. Like almost all of the most important BMWs of that time, today it is a much-loved classic by collectors. Just like the E31, the new 8 Series – codename G14 – is not a direct replacement of the 6 Series (which even so left the scene), but a nomenclature that aims to be completely new in the range and place the brand at a level where it hopes to compete not only with the Mercedes S-Class Coupé, but also with the most varied rivals, such as the Porsche 911 and the Bentley Continental GT.

Essential CAR

名为８系，旨在强调它是全新系列车型，并将品牌推向一个更高水平，不仅同奔驰Ｓ系轿跑一决雌雄，还能与其他最为多样化的对手一较高下，如保时捷 911 和宾利欧陆 GT。可以说，宝马致力于打造一个让顾客一见倾心的华美形象，因为传承了品牌最优秀的传统，不仅足以吸引品牌的铁杆粉丝，还会让那些对宝马从不动心的人侧目。汽车外观与内饰都采用了顶级材料制作，以及最先进的信息技术、安全系统和跑车驾驶辅助系统。Bowers & Wilkins 的 Diamond Surround Sound 音响系统更是锦上添花。《精华》杂志试驾过宝马８系的顶级车型，但直到 M850i 问世，才算大开眼界。该车搭载了强大的 4.4 升双涡轮增压 V8 发动机，输

出功率达 530 马力，起步加速到 100 公里的时速仅需 3.6 秒，当然这样的卓越性能也要归功于其恒时四驱的 xDrive 系统和超级的 Steptronic 8 速自动变速箱。虽然这数据已经够让人震撼，但还不代表一切。M850i 再现最优秀的宝马车型的魔力，车身内外弥漫着的运动气息证明该公路车型是按照征战勒芒 24 小时耐力赛的赛车车型打造的。宝马同时还推出了６缸 3.0 升的柴油版本，输出功率达 320 马力，已经符合 2019 年的 Euro 6d-TEMP 欧洲尾气排放标准。全新宝马８系打破了市场常规，将汽车视为集合了艺术、创意和乐趣的作品，为其倾注了极大的热情。SUV 还是靠边站吧！ 쐽

And so, BMW concentrated on a stunning image that wins over hearts at first glance, offering a coupé in the brand’s best tradition, able to seduce not only die-hard fans of the Bavarian marque, but also those who had never looked at BMW in this way. The exterior design is matched in the cabin by the presence of high-quality materials and the most advanced infotainment technologies, active and passive safety, and sporty driver aids. The Diamond Surround Sound from Bowers & Wilkins is the cherry on the cake. Essential tested the top-of-the-range model until the arrival of the M8, called the M850i, equipped with the powerful 4.4-litre TwinTurbo V8 engine with 530hp, which accelerates from 0-100km/h in just 3.6 seconds, also thanks to the permanent all-wheel xDrive and the superb Steptronic 8-speed automatic transmission. The numbers are impressive, but they don’t say it all. The M850i recovers the magic present in the best BMWs, with a truly sporty feeling that proves that the road model was developed alongside the race car destined for the 24 Hours of Le Mans. The launch also includes a 6-cylinder, 3-litre diesel version packing 320hp, which already complies with the 2019 Euro 6 TEMP regulations. The new BMW 8 Series is a car that rips apart market conventions and invests in a passion for cars as works of art, ingenuity and pleasure. The SUVs can wait. 쐽

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Essential CAR

至尊无上 Executive class 如果能驾驶宾利欧陆 GTC 敞篷版跑车，那还去坐什么飞机？目的地只不过是旅行的借口而已！ Why fly when you can drive a Bentley Continental GTC? The destination is only an excuse to travel 文/by GUILHERME MARQUES

汽

车种类多种多样，并非千篇一律。有些适合越野旅行，有些适合日常通勤，还有些用来作赛道上模拟比赛。它们可以应对各种危险路况，如泥地、雪地或岩石；它们也会容易停靠，并适合带着孩子、购物袋和狗狗一起出行，又或者可以让你在朋友面前炫耀爱车的强大功 ཽ 能。或者，一辆宾利（Bentley）足矣。宾利不同于其他任何汽车。成为宾利本身就是一个终极目标。购买宾利的人不是为了买最快、最高效、最实用的汽车，只是单纯地想要一台宾利，就是这么简单——这就足够了。宾利承载着无与伦比的盛名，让人一见难忘的它使一代代人梦想着从宾利看客变为宾利车主。全新宾利欧陆（Continental）GTC 也不例外。英国工程师们的全新力作雄伟壮观，优雅的线条令其更为与众不同。欧陆 GTC 是汽

ot all cars are the same. Some are great for off-road travel, others for everyday tasks and some for pseudo-races on the track. They can best hazards such as mud, snow or rocks; be easy to park and drive the children, shopping bags and the dog; or impress friends with their prowess. Or they can be a Bentley. A Bentley is unlike any other car. To be a Bentley is a purpose in and of itself. Those who buy one do not want the fastest, most efficient, most practical car. Those who buy a Bentley want a Bentley, end of story — that is more than enough. The symbol’s prestige is unparalleled and tends to materialise in unforgettable cars that make generation after generation dream of going from mere onlookers to owners. The new Continental GTC is no different. The latest creation from the British engineers is 澳门精华 | 2019年 2月- 3月 | 33

Essential CAR

车工程的壮举，敞篷版的它只为展现宾利的所有伟大成就。即使车速高达 50 公里 / 小时时，顶蓬依旧可以开启，整个过程只要 19 秒，而且品牌首次为全新款跑车推出了粗花呢敞篷。无论从哪个方面来看，GTC 的优雅都是不可否认的，因为品牌设计师们倾心打造出的平衡比例在同类车中极为少见。欧陆 GTC 敞篷版跑车本身就是一堂汽车设计课。

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当然，宾利内饰必须和外形一样出类拔萃。GTC 的车舱如同一个高级的木质茧壳，集合了皮革、铝材及其他意想不到的元素，这样的内饰绝对不会再第二辆车中看到。 12.3 英寸的信息娱乐屏只需轻点一个按钮就能隐藏在仪表盘中。至于引擎方面，宾利选择配置 W12 6.0 TSI 双涡轮增压发动机，输出功率高达 635 马力，加上一个 8 速变速箱，欧陆 GTC 从起步加速

到 100 公里/小时仅需 3.8 秒，最高时速可达 333 公里/小时。对于那些希望汽车动力更强，但不需要美誉多多的 W12 发动机的人而言，敬请期待不久即将发布的 V8 发动机版本吧。欧陆 GTC 敞篷版跑车简直让人赞不绝口，它是一个以汽车打造的梦想，是品牌所代表的卓绝非凡成就的当之无愧的继承者。宾利的创立者华特 ·欧文 ·宾利（W. O. Bentley）也定会为之自豪！ 쐽

Essential CAR

imposing, majestic even, and with timeless lines that make it unique. The Continental is a masterwork of car engineering and this convertible version only highlights all the great things Bentley did for the latest generation of its coupe. The top opens while travelling up to 50km/h, taking 19 seconds to complete a cycle, and it even comes with a tweed option, a first for a new model. The GTC’s elegance is undeniable from any aspect, as the brand’s designers were able to create balanced proportions you usually do not see in cars this size. The convertible Continental is a lesson in car design. Naturally, the inside of a Bentley must be just as exuberant as the body, if not more. The GTC’s cabin is a wooden cocoon of the highest

quality, combined with leather, aluminium and dozens other possible elements, in such a way that no two vehicles are alike. The 12.3-inch infotainment screen can be hidden inside the dashboard at the touch of a button. As for the engines, for the launch Bentley went with the W12 6.0 TSI, with its two turbochargers and 635 horsepower, coupled with an eight-speed transmission, which goes from 0-100km/h in 3.8 seconds. Maximum speed is 333km/h. The V8 version will arrive soon, for those looking for a bit more dynamism but don’t require the inherent prestige of the W12. The Continental GTC is simply fabulous, a car-shaped dream and a worthy heir to everything the brand stands for. W. O. Bentley would be proud. 쐽

澳门精华 | 2019年 2月- 3月 | 35

Essential WATCHES

回归一刻 The moment 自 1999 年 12 月 20 日起，澳门回归已踏入第 20 个年头。为庆祝这一重要时刻，本地设计师李浩强联同澳门设计中心及腕表品牌万希泉，推出一个特别的陀飞轮系列 It has been 20 years since Macau’s return to China, on 20 December 1999. In celebration this meaningful moment, local designer Bob Lei collaborated with Macau Design Centre and watch brand Memorigin for a special tourbillon watch collection 文/by EDWINA LIU

陀

飞轮经常是复杂工艺的极致体现，最初是为了抵抗万有引力的负面效果而发明，至今依然是一切高端腕表品牌不会放过的一项突出工艺，以彰显品牌有制造这个小机制的实力。这项复杂工艺的最新代表作，就是万希泉酒桶型陀飞轮腕表— — 回归一刻。陀飞轮位于 6 点钟位置的校准器上，绕轴每 60 秒转一圈。腕表采用万希泉自家研发的自动上链机芯；机芯融合一切功能，采用极紧凑的设计，以尽可能展现其内部运作。该腕表将推出两个独特版本。

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万希泉是香港唯一一个生产陀飞轮腕表的本土品牌，由区内顶尖的设计师和收藏家设计具有创新概念的腕表。澳门设计中心执行长冯文伟表示：“澳门设计中心是唯一一个推动澳门本土设计的平台。我们已策划过许多不同的展览和项目。在这个特别的年度，我们希望策划一个从未做过的特别项目。这就是我们与万希泉和同点设计合作的原因。” 为庆祝这重要的回归周年，澳门设计中心希望创造一款恒久流传的礼物，并借此提供一个机会让澳门本土设计师李浩强展

he tourbillon is often presented as the king of complications. Originally invented to combat the negative effects of the Earth’s gravitational pull, it remains today a ubiquitous feature for all high-end brands as a demonstration of watchmakers’ capabilities to manufacture such small mechanisms. The newest member of this complex family is The Mo’Ment, which combines a flying tourbillon housed in a tonneau case. The tourbillon placed on the 6 o’clock regulators rotate in 60 seconds on their axis. The in-house,

李浩强 Bob Lei

Essential WATCHES

now truly fits our taste as well as the public’s,” Lei said. “We made shaped of tourbillon as a lotus [Macau’s emblematic flower] and we carved the characters for ‘Macau, China’ on the top and bottom of the dial. We also used 11 emerald dotted-hour indexes on the dial, to represent our regional flag,” he explained. The designer also put a lot of effort on the watch hands: “You can see there is a tiny circle on the tail end. When the time goes to 12 sharp, the two circles will meet and form the shape of Chinese character ‘Hui’, which means ‘return’.” This special edition is priced at MOP 49,999 and is limited to only 100 pieces for the first batch order. Watch enthusiasts can order it at Memorigin Macau store.

冯文伟 Dirco Fung

现实力。李浩强也是同点设计和配饰品牌 Ultraworks 的创办人。李浩强表示： “设计工作大概耗时两到三个月。我们构思了不同设计，而现在我们看到的最终方案确实同时符合了我们和大众的品味。” 他解释说：“这款陀飞轮的外形是一朵莲花（澳门区花），而在表盘的正反两面均刻有 ‘中国澳门 ’字样。同时 11 颗翡翠镶在小时刻度上，以象征澳门区旗。” 设计师在表针设计上也别具匠心：“时针和分针的末端分别有一大一小的圆圈。当时间到达 12 点正时，两个圆圈就会相遇，形成一个‘回’字以代表回归之意。” 该特别版腕表标价 49,999 澳门元，首批订单限量 100 枚。腕表爱好者可立即到万希泉的澳门店铺订购。

澳门设计力量

除了是该款腕表的主设计者之外，李浩强也是澳门本土年轻设计师的领头人。在澳门理工学院修毕平面设计之后，他曾在深圳和杭州工作。“当时澳门没有真正意义上的设计公司，大部分企业也会包揽制作工程。我找不到工作，所以去了大陆，” 他回忆道。得益于中国内地提供的机遇，他有机会探索 38 | FEBRUARY- MARCH 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

self-winding movement that integrates all these functions has also been highly skeletonised to reveal as much of its inner workings as possible. The model will be produced in two unique versions. Memorigin is the first Hong Kong brand to only produce tourbillon watches, which are designed by some of the region’s top designers and collectors with innovative concepts. “Macau Design Centre is the only platform to promote Macau design. We have already curated many different exhibitions and projects. In this special year, we hope to curate a special project we never did. That’s why we collaborate with Memorigin and Todot design.” Dirco Fung, CEO of Macau Design Centre. To celebrate this important year, Macau Design Centre wanted to create a special gift that would be everlasting and provide an opportunity to showcase the power of Macau’s local designer, Bob Lei, who is also the founder of Todot Design and accessories brand Ultraworks. “The design process took around two to three months. We proposed a few different designs, the final form which we can now see

MACAU DESIGN POWER In addition to the major contributor to the watch, Bob Lei is also the bellwether of local young designers. After graduating from Macao Polytechnic Institute, where he studied graphic design, he worked in Shenzhen and Hangzhou. “At that time, there wasn’t a real design company in Macau, most of the existing businesses also did production. I couldn’t find a place to work, so I went to Mainland China,” Lei recalled. Thanks to the opportunities there, he got the chance to explore different forms of design, such as product design and interior design. “Many people told me that Mainland China was unenlightened, but when I worked there I found that to be completely wrong! Even a sophomore-year at school knew more information than me. My early days there were very difficult, but I really learnt a lot.” After working away from home for many years, Lei decide to return and set up his company, Todot, in Macau. “Many people asked me why I came back,” he says. “To be honest, at that time it wasn’t easy for a Macau resident to open a company in Mainland China. Luckily, the Macau government then started to support local cultural and the creative industry.” Todot is the most recognised design company in Macau today. The team has already won several international design awards, such as Taiwan’s Golden Pin Design Award, the International Leipzig Poster Exhibition, the International Poster Triennial in Toyama, and more. “The first year after I set up the company, we only did graphic design. By the second year, we wanted to explore more interesting projects, which is why we launched our brand Ultraworks and started to do product design.” Ultratime 001 was the first product from Ultraworks, and in 2017 the watch won the Platinum A’design Award, a famous international design competition. It was the first time that a nominee from Macau won the title. Ultratime 001 took inspirations from spacecraft speedometers. It is a unique and classy timepiece, perfectly balanced in design and

Essential WATCHES

不同形式的设计，例如产品设计和室内设计。 “很多人告诉我中国大陆还没开化，但我在那里工作时发现这种说法完全不对！甚至大学二年级的学生知道的资讯都比我多。早期我在那里过得很艰难，但真的学到很多。” 离家工作多年以后，李浩强决定回澳门创立公司 — — 同点设计。“许多人问我为什么回来，”他解释道，“说实话，当时澳门居民在大陆开公司并不容易。幸运的是，澳门政府后来开始支持本土文创产业。” 如今，同点设计是澳门最受认可的设计公司。设计团队已赢得若干国际设计奖项，例如台湾金点设计奖，入选德国莱比锡国际海报节和日本富山国际海报三年展，以及其他殊荣。“公司成立的第一年，我们只做平面设计。到第二年，我们想探索更多有趣的项目，因此推出了 Ultraworks 品牌开始进行产品设计。”Ultratime 001 腕表是 Ultraworks 品牌的首款产品，后来在 2017 年赢得国际著名设计比赛 Platinum A’design Award（意大利铂金奖）。这是澳门获提名者首次赢得该奖项。 Ultratime 001 的灵感来自太空船的速度仪，独特又典雅，设计与功能完美平衡，造就出永不过时的外观。“我们为公司的首款产品构思了许多不同的有趣概念，最后发现腕表最让人兴奋，也是我们最有信心的领域，”李浩强解释说，“我回到澳门后发现，我大多数同学都已放弃从事设计而选择在赌场工作。他们赚了很多钱但不开心。当时我开始思考澳门人的精神。我想澳门人一直前进，而不是倒退，时间也是永远向前的。这是我们手表指针固定不动的原因，两个圆盘就会逆时针移动。我想让人们知道时间不等人。逆水行舟，不进则退。” 至今，Ultraworks 已推出 Ultratime 002、 Ultratime Zero-黑洞、 Ultratime G1 等腕表以及文具系列，全部大受赞赏，所以趁热打铁吧。 쐽

function, resulting in a timeless look. “We came out with many different, interesting ideas for our first product. We found the watch to be the most exciting and the one we can improve upon,” Lei explained. “When I came back to Macau, I found most of my classmates had given up on working in design in the region and operated in casinos instead. They earned a lot of money but weren’t happy. At that time, I began thinking of the sprit of Macau people. I think we are a people that move forwards, not

backwards, and time is ever moving forward. That is why the hour hand is fixed and the two circular discs move counter-clockwise instead. I want to let people know time does not wait. A boat sailing against the current must forge ahead or it will be driven back.” Ultraworks has since launched Ultratime 002, Ultratime Zero-Blackhole, Ultratime G1 watches, as well as a stationery collection, which has been highly praised, so strike while the iron is hot. 쐽

澳门精华 | 2019年 2月- 3月 | 39

Essential WATCHES

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不走寻常路 Rejecting the status quo 自 2005 年成立以来，马克斯 ·布瑟（Max Busser）创立的品牌 MB&F 已经推出了多个石破天惊的腕表表款，都能与库比蒂诺（Cupertino）的巨擎品牌 Maçâ 相提并论。全新的 HM9 足以证明，MB&F 每有新表款问世，就会把制表工艺推向更高水平 Since its creation in 2005, MB&F by Max Busser has launched surprising pieces whose pace rival the products of the Maçâ brand over at Cupertino. The new HM9 could well be proof that, with each new model, MB&F raises the bar even higher 文/by CARLOS TORRES

0世纪40年代末和50年代，空气动力学原理才刚开始影响到汽车设计。这期间，为了确保汽车拥有强大的动力和速度，曲线设计变得尤为重要。但虽说如此，美学发展对设计师们的影响显然还是多于其他任何科学原理的影响。 MB&F打造的全新 HM9就是这个时期的直接成果，更是梦想成真的铁证。自 2005 年起，我们已经日益对 MB&F 推出的表款见怪不怪，全新问世的 HM9 造型典雅又极具立体感，腕表机芯的形状按照表壳形状打造，如出一辙。但这枚机芯却也是这台 “钟表机器 ”(HM)中最复杂的结构之一，它不仅构造复杂，更为罕见的是机芯由连接到中央行星差速器的双平衡摆轮所控制。同 MB&F 的许多其他 HM 表款一样，HM9 是为飞行员或车手设计的，采用垂直刻度表盘显示功能，飞行员或驾驶员可以在驾驶时轻松读取时间。最重要的是该表款展现了 MB&F 是如何巧夺天工地将作为品牌最先锋系列创意基础的两种创作理念融为一体。腕表形状和线条与前卫的 HM 表款如出一辙，机芯本身的设计灵感则来自较为古典的 LM 系列，特别是 Legacy Machine 2。 LM2 于 2013 年首次推出，是 MB&F 首次尝试双平衡摆轮构造。尽管全新的 HM9 采用了同 LM2 一样的大平衡轮和主发条桶，但机芯的其他部分全都是崭新设计。MB&F 工程师

n the late 1940s and '50s, the principles of aerodynamics were just at the beginning of the influence that they would have on car design. During this time, curvilinear forms became more prominent, ensuring the promise of both power and speed. However, and despite that, the designers were influenced more by the aesthetic sense than by any other scientific rationale. The new HM9 from MB&F is the direct result of this period in which the dream has clearly come true. Just as the brand has accustomed us to the models it has launched since 2005, the HM9 is an elegant and extremely sculptural watch, driven by a movement that is strongly adapted to the shape of its case. But this same movement is also one of the most complicated to be found in a “Horological Machine” (HM), not only for its complex form, but also because of its rare characteristic of being regulated by twin balance wheels connected to a central differential. As with many other HMs by MB&F, the HM9 is a pilot or driver’s watch, featuring a vertical dial display so that time can be read easily while the hands stay on the wheel. But the most important thing is that the model represents an absolutely ingenious blend of the two creative 澳门精华 | 2019年 2月- 3月 | 41

Essential WATCHES

42 | FEBRUARY- MARCH 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential WATCHES

兼钟表大师 Guillaume Thevenin 从头开始研发了 HM9，他在这款原型腕表上耗时约三年之久。就像 LM2 一样，HM9 的两个平衡摆轮是由一个中央行星差速器进行衔接，该差速器计算并协调两个摆轮的平均振频，透过两个蓝宝石玻璃窗可以分别看到两个摆轮的运作。这款腕表的机芯由一个主发条盒提供动力，动力存储长达 45 小时。HM9 机芯共包含 301 个组件，包括 44 颗红宝石。相比之下，LM2 的机芯“只有”241 个零件。既然说这款机芯的形状够怪，其复杂性更是让人难以置信，那么用于保护机芯的腕表外壳也一样是 HM9 的大手笔发挥之一。HM9 的表壳完全由钛金制成，宽 47 毫米，长 57 毫米（厚度 23 毫米），让人叹为观止。能够真正了解 HM9 的唯一方法就是把它戴在手腕上，让它自行发挥自己的魔力。表壳底部有两个小表耳，让腕表可以轻柔地包覆住手腕，腕表尺寸虽大重量却很轻，结构虽极为复杂但戴在腕间却特别舒适，这样矛盾的感觉真是让人难分真伪。尽管如此，HM9 的外观依

philosophies that form each of the most avantgarde lines of MB&F. While the shape and style are clearly in line with the more vanguard HMs, the movement itself is inspired by the more classic line of the LMs, more specifically the Legacy Machine 2. The LM2, originally launched in 2013, represented MB&F’s first foray into dual balances. While this new HM9 shares the same large balance wheels and mainspring barrel as the LM2, the rest of the movement is completely new, having been developed from the start by Guillaume Thévenin, the MB&F engineer/watchmaker who worked on the prototype for around three years. And just like the LM2, the HM9’s two balance wheels are connected by a central planetary differential, which calculates the average of the two regulating organs, each one over a sapphire glass window. The movement of this watch is powered by a single mainspring barrel, which gives enough energy 澳门精华 | 2019年 2月- 3月 | 43

Essential WATCHES

旧优雅大气，几近流线型。这样的造型要归功于构成它的 44 个组件，从视觉上说，腕表造型可以分成三部分：侧面的两个舱体和中间部分。侧面两个舱体中每个含有一个平衡摆轮；中间部分的前部是显示小时和分钟的窗口，后部则是表冠，用于上弦和功能设置。尽管 HM9 形状不凡、造型复杂，但它的防水性能高达 30 米，这对于一款形状如此复杂的腕表来说可谓非凡无比。 HM9 采用 “专利三维垫圈（ ” patented three-dimensional gasket）对表壳进行密封。垫圈就是一款特殊的单层 O 型环。 44 | FEBRUARY- MARCH 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

for a power reserve of 45 hours of uninterrupted use. In total, the HM9 calibre incorporates 301 components, including 44 rubies. In comparison, the movement in the LM2 comprises “just” 241 pieces. But even taking into consideration the appearance and incredible complexity of this movement, the shape of the case that protects it remains one of the highlights of the HM9. Built entirely in titanium, with impressive measurements of 47mm wide by 57mm long (and 23mm thick), the only way to really under-

stand the HM9 is to place it on the wrist and let it work its magic. Thanks to two small lugs that sit on the underside of the case, the model gently envelops the wrist, producing conflicting feelings by confronting volume with lightness, complexity with comfort. Despite these contrasts, the HM9’s shape can be considered elegant and almost aerodynamic. Contributing to that are its 44 components, which visually distinguish themselves in three different segments – two models on each flank, which each contain one of the balance wheels, while the central

Essential WATCHES

MB&F 最终决定推出两款 HM9，虽然都采用完全相同的钛金表壳，但不同的表盘却让它们有了 “天壤 ” 之别：一个为飞行员风格，一个为计速器风格，而且两款腕表的机芯分别采用深灰色涂层和玫瑰金色涂层。第一款 HM9 被称为 “Air”空气，其灵感源自二战期间被称为 beobachtungsuhr 或 B-uhr 的德国战斗机。这些的德国战斗机恰是表盘 12 点钟位置的独特三角形设计的灵感源泉。 “Road”公路版本洋溢着一种复古风格的赛车风情，这在其他 MB&F 腕表中也

能见到。 “Road”的表盘的灵感来自一款老式的计速器，机芯为玫瑰金色涂层。这样的色彩组合让表壳和机芯的对比更为别具一格。 MB&F 的设计并不适合传统腕表的爱好者。HM9 更像是一款机动艺术，而非腕表。 HM9 恰恰证明，马克斯 ·布瑟不满足于周围世界的现状，而不断突破自己的界限。毕竟，如果梦想能变成现实，那为什么要为想象力设限呢？不走寻常路的 HM9 似乎就不就是真切的例证吗？！ 쐽

section is responsible for indicating the hour and minutes at the front. The opposite extremity was reserved for the crown, which maintains its classic winding and setting function. And despite its unusual and complex shape, the HM9 is water-resistant to 30 metres, a remarkable characteristic for a watch with such an intricate form and which in this case is sealed by a “patented three-dimensional gasket”. This element is nothing more than a special single O-ring. Finally, MB&F decided to launch the HM9 in two versions which, despite sharing the exact same titanium case, set themselves apart for their aviator- or speedometer-style dial, and in which the finish of the movement alternates from dark grey to rose gold. Nicknamed “Air”, the first version features a dial inspired by the German airforce models from World War II. Known as “beobachtungsuhr” or “B-uhr”, this is where the distinctive triangle positioned on the dial at 12 o’clock comes from. The “Road” edition conveys a retro style associated to motorsport, which can also be seen in other MB&F watches. In this model, the dial follows the inspiration of a vintage speedometer, while the movement features a rose gold finish. It’s an attractive combination that also presents more of a contrast between the case and the movement. The MB&F creations aren’t for the conventional watch-lover. More pieces of kinetic art than true timepieces, the HM9 example confirms Max Busser’s constant dissatisfaction with the status quo of the world that surrounds him. After all, if the dream can come true, why set limits to creativity? The non-conformism of the HM9 seems to be proof of this idea. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2019年 2月- 3月 | 45

Essential WATCHES

日内瓦玫瑰 The Rose of Geneva 许多人觉得，帝舵只是劳力士旗下的一个小品牌。但不仅如此，它还对劳力士不屑于开发的款式和价位作出填补。因此长久以来，帝舵都被定义为配角，湮没在劳力士大哥的光环投下的阴影里。然而，如今帝舵已今非昔比 Many recognise Tudor as just the younger sister of the famous Rolex. But it’s much more than that, filling the gaps in terms of models and cost that the brand with the crown never intended to fill. Its long story has therefore largely been defined by taking a supporting role and staying in its older sister’s shadow. Today, the Tudor reality is completely different 文/by CARLOS TORRES

起源

1926 年 2 月 17 日，帝舵品牌正式诞生。制表商和钟表经销商 Veuve de Philippe Huther （同时也是劳力士的一名供应商）当天在日内瓦注册了帝舵品牌 “Tudor”，并在其后 10 年里主宰着品牌的命运。成立品牌之后，首批腕表在 1932 年才得以上市。这批作品的特色是矩形表壳，双色表盘、发光的阿拉伯数字刻度以及按传统方式在 6 点钟刻度上设置秒钟小表盘。 46 | FEBRUARY- MARCH 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

1936 年 10 月 15 日，劳力士创始人汉斯· 威尔斯多夫接管帝舵。与此同时，帝舵表的表盘上开始出现玫瑰图案刻于盾牌内的标识，象征着力量（腕表坚固）与优雅（线条美态）的无敌结合。第二次世界大战结束不久后，在 1946 年 3 月 6 日，威尔斯多夫决定为帝舵表打造一个独立的商业定位，因此创立了“Montres Tudor S.A.” （帝舵表）公司。而劳力士则为帝舵表的技术、美学和性能作保证，同时通过劳力士

THE ORIGINS Officially, and as a brand, Tudor was born on February 17, 1926. The designation “The Tudor” was registered on that day in Geneva by Veuve de Philippe Huther, a watch dealer and maker but also a supplier of Rolex that, during the following 10 years, managed the destiny of the brand. With the first step taken, the first watches only saw the light of day in 1932. The produc-

Essential WATCHES

品牌的架构来一并确保帝舵表所需的分销和技术支持。自 1947 年起，帝舵品牌取得进展，并在一年后刊登首个广告，强调腕表的美学特点、计时精度和防水性能。该时期劳力士和帝舵表现出的创新和先锋性，从帝舵表打广告的宣传方式可见一斑。 1952 年，帝舵通过在当时属于非常新颖和独创的广告方式，推出 Tudor Oyster Prince 腕表。广告刊登在众多报刊杂志上，不仅展示和描述产品，还以创新的方式，运用非常详尽的文字加上体现其耐用品质的图片，来彰显腕表的重要品质，如耐用性、可靠性和精确度等。威尔斯多夫的策略是将帝舵与劳力士更显著地联系在一起，让劳力士既有的市场信誉来为新品牌的质量背书。“我已决定，帝舵王子表将搭载劳力士的两项专利功能——独一无二、著名的防水蚝式表壳以及原创的自动上链永动机制。所有帝舵 Oyster Prince 表都会配备这两项唯劳力士独有的非凡功能。这意味着我们对新的帝舵表充满信心。我非常自豪能为其提供担保。” 帝舵慧鸣(Advisor)系列在 1957 年推出，同年推出的还有超薄表款 Oysterthin 7960。一直以来，慧鸣系列都是帝舵表中出类拔萃的表款。经过十年发展之后，该系列成为帝舵历史上唯一保留闹钟功能的表款。同时，该系列也在帝舵爱好者和收藏家之中赢得了传奇的地位，促使品牌在 2011 年再次推出慧 48 | FEBRUARY- MARCH 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

tion launch was characterised by models with rectangular cases, two-toned dials, luminescent Arabic numerals and a small seconds dial positioned in the traditional way at 6 o’clock. On October 15, 1936, the Tudor administration was taken over by Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex. This transition was marked by stamping a rose on a shield on the dials, symbolising the invincible union between the strength and robustness of the models with the grace and beauty of its lines. Soon after the end of World War II, on March 6, 1946, Wilsdorf decided to give Tudor its own commercial identification and created Montres Tudor S.A. While Rolex guaranteed the technical, aesthetic and functional features of the models, the older sister’s structure would equally ensure the necessary distribution and technical assistance. From 1947, the brand gained ground and published the first advertisements a year later, highlighting the aesthetic characteristics of the watches, their chronometric precision and their water resistance. The innovation witnessed in this period, by both Rolex and Tudor, also included the way in which the brand was advertised. When, in 1952, Tudor presented the Tudor Oyster Prince to the public, it did so through an incredibly original and distinctive advertising

campaign for that time. The adverts, published in newspapers and magazines, didn’t just show and describe the product, but they also gave emphasis to essential qualities such as resistance, reliability and precision in an innovative way, through very detailed wording accompanied by illustrations allusive to the models’ resistance. Wilsdorf ’s strategy was to associate Tudor to Rolex more significantly, so as to sanction the new brand’s quality through the credibility that Rolex already had on the market. “I have decided that the Tudor Prince deserves to share with Rolex two advantages I would allow no other watch to use – the famous and unique waterproof Oyster case and the original selfwinding perpetual rotor mechanism. All Tudor Oyster Princes will have these two exceptional features, previously exclusive to Rolex. This indicates, I think, the measure of our faith in the new watch. I am proud to give my personal endorsement.” Launched in 1957, along with the extra thin Oysterthin 7960, the Advisor always represented an exception among the Tudor models. Produced over the course of a decade, the Advisor remained the only model in the history of the brand to include an alarm function. The legend status it gained meanwhile among appreciators and collectors of the brand led Tudor to recreate the Advisor in 2011 with a 42mm case,

Essential WATCHES

鸣腕表。新腕表采用 42mm 表壳，远远大于 1957 年原版的 34mm 表壳。帝舵的创意动力，加上在市场赢得的成功和声誉，催生了 1958 年的 Oyster Prince 7965 和 Oyster Air Tiger 7957 表款。然而，在刚过十年后，鉴于经典的美学原则已扎根且技术性能已获界定，自 1969 年起，帝舵标志上的玫瑰图案消失，只剩下象征坚固和可靠的盾牌图案，并一直沿用于表盘至今。同年， Oyster Prince Date+Day 以新形象上市，成为当时王子系列最出色的表款。在美学上，该表款与劳力士同是星期日历型腕表的 “Day-Date 系列”有着几乎毋庸置疑的相似度。

1954 年潜航者系列

经过多年演化之后，Oyster Prince 系列已成为帝舵固有的产品线，而在 1954 年随着 Oyster Prince Submariner 7922 推出而出现的潜水表，则为品牌开辟了一条新道路，助其成为腕表界的传奇。帝舵最初的潜航者系列，随着潜水爱好者越来越高要求而稳步演化。例如在最大防水深度上，最初仅限于水深 100 米，到 1958 Ref. 7924m 表款时已达到 200 米，翻了一倍。事实上，整个 7900 系列均开始配备一些特别功能，而不管这些功能会否应用于未来的表款中，均已推动了该表款的传奇地位。 1969 年，帝舵推出潜航者 (Submariner) 腕表，并在品牌的产品目录上一直销售至 1999 年。

substantially larger than the 1957 original, which measured just 34mm. Tudor’s creative impetus, allied to the success and recognition of the market, led to the launch of the Oyster Prince 7965 and the Oyster Air Tiger 7957 in 1958. However, little over a decade later, from 1969, and with the classic aesthetic principles solidly established and the technical features well defined, the rose disappeared from the Tudor logo and was replaced by just the shield, a symbol of solidity and reliability and which can still be seen on its dials today. The Oyster Prince Date+Day appeared that year debuting a new image, and revealed itself as the greatest model within the Prince line. The aesthetic similarity with Rolex’s Day-Date is almost undebatable.

case of the maximum depth, initially limited to 100 metres and which, with the 1958 Ref. 7924m, doubled to 200 metres. In fact, the entire 7900 line started to include specificities that, regardless of being applied or not in future models, contributed to the legend status that the model embodied. The year 1969 saw the emergence of Tudor’s Submariner, which extended until 1999, when it disappeared from the brand’s catalogue for good. The period began with the launch of the Ref. 7016 and 7021, equipped with new movements and dials with square hour markers, the famous “snowflakes” (the name also associated to the hour dials), and ended three decades later, accumulating more than 20 variants of the model.

1954 THE SUBMARINERS While the Oyster Prince models revealed themselves as a structural line in the Tudor revolution over the years, the diving watches, which appeared in 1954 with the Oyster Prince Submariner 7922, defined a new path for the brand that would contribute to its status as a legend. The first generations of Tudor’s Submariners evolved at a good pace, accompanying the requirements of an ever-more demanding community of diving enthusiasts. Such was the

1970 THE CHRONOGRAPHS The first Tudor chronograph emerged in 1970 with the Oysterdate chronograph. Integrating a hand-wound Valjoux 7734, associated to a 39mm case, the model featured a dial with distinctive graphic lines. A second series appeared just a year later, today known among collectors as the ‘Montecarlo’ and which stood out for the use of a dial and fluting variant and which remained in the brand’s catalogue until 1977. The new 澳门精华 | 2019年 2月- 3月 | 49

Essential WATCHES

50 | FEBRUARY- MARCH 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential WATCHES

潜航者时代始于 Ref. 7016 和 7021 腕表的发布——此两款表配备新机芯和表盘，采用正方形小时刻度，即著名的 “雪花 ”刻度（还有“雪花”指针)，结束于 30 年后，期间累积超过 20 款腕表。

在迈向一百周年的旅程中，帝舵很可能已成为当今性价比最高的瑞士腕表。许多品牌均致力于夺取此头衔，但品质却鲜能媲美这朵日内瓦的玫瑰。 쐽

1970 年计时表系列

1970 年，帝舵推出首款计时表，搭载手动上链 Valjoux 7734 机芯，39mm 表壳，表盘拥有独特的图案线条。该表款在仅一年后便推出第二个系列 — — 如今被收藏家们称为 “蒙地卡罗 ”，最大特点是对表盘的运用和开槽的变化。该腕表一直销售至 1977 年。新的 Valjoux 7734 机芯频率超过 21,600aph，而当时常见的频率才只有 18,000aph。 1976 年，帝舵推出第三个计时表系列，首次发布自动上链机芯。当时，这些 Oysterdate 腕表被称为自动计时表（Automatic Chrono Time）或简称为计时表（Chrono Time）。Valjoux 7750 机芯需要更厚的表壳，导致该表款被如今收藏家们称为 “大块头 ”。 1995 年推出新的 Prince Oysterdate 系列，采用蓝宝石玻璃和背部条纹，基础线条更流畅。

成熟

1996 年，帝舵庆祝公司成立 50 周年，并开始不再采用与劳力士相似的设计。帝舵已发展成熟，是时候开发自己的品牌特点。在未来 20 年里，帝舵发展出鲜明的个性，推出了许多成功的系列，例如碧湾（Black Bay）、领潜型（Pelagos）、迅骑（Fastrider）和启承（Heritage），同时继续销售经典系列计时型（Chrono）、Ranger 和慧鸣（Advisor）。

“多年来，我始终在研究制造一些让经销商能以比较普及的价格发售的腕表，但依然与劳力士一样值得信赖。于是我决定另创一家公司，致力于生产和销售新的腕表。这家公司名为 Tudor Watch Company（帝舵腕表公司）。” 汉斯·威尔斯多夫，1952 年

“For some years now, I have been considering the idea of making a watch that our agents could sell at a more modest price than our Rolex watches, and yet one that would attain the standard of dependability for which Rolex is famous. I decided to form a separate company, with the object of making and marketing this new watch. It is called the Tudor Watch Company.” Hans Wilsdorf, 1952

Valjoux 7734 was defined by its frequency of over 21,600aph, as opposed to the 18,000aph that was common at that time. In 1976, Tudor’s third family of chronographs was launched, debuting self-winding movements for the first time in this complication. In those days, these Oysterdates were also known as “Automatic Chrono Time” or simply “Chrono Time”. The calibre Valjoux 7750 required a thicker case, leading the model to be known today as “Big Block” among collectors, allusive to its size. A renewed line of the Prince Oysterdate followed in 1995, with sapphire glass and a stripped back general aesthetic with smoother essential lines.

MATURITY When, in 1996, Tudor celebrated its 50th anniversary, the lines that defined a parallel evolutionary line between the brand and Rolex started to disappear. Tudor had reached its maturity and the time to develop its own characteristics as the brand it had become. Over the next two decades, Tudor developed a notable autonomy, launching successful lines such as Black Bay, Pelagos, Fastrider and Heritage, which coexist with models such as the Chrono, Ranger and Advisor. On its way to its 100th anniversary, Tudor has become what is probably the Swiss manufacturer with the best value for money today. It is an ambitious title for many, but which is rarely achieved with the same level of excellence as Tudor, the Rose of Geneva. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2019年 2月- 3月 | 51

Essential WATCHES

时尚与独立 Modern and Independent 腕表在法国制造，但公司总部却位于洛杉矶。March LA.B 的风格是建立在 “ 少即是多” 原则之上的精致优雅，融合了 1960 年代和 1970 年代法国比亚里茨（Biarritz）的历史风韵与洛杉矶的现代时尚 The watches are made in France, but the company’s headquarters are in Los Angeles. The March LA.B style is refined elegance founded on the principle that less is more, and a fusion between the historical heritage of 1960s and ‘70s Biarritz and the modernity of LA 文/by CLÁUDIA BAPTISTA

arch LA.B是个制表业越来越少见的例子。它是一个独立的腕表品牌，投资于历史悠久的一众品牌已经奠定的具有良好基础的制表工业。 March LA.B 由商人 Alain Marhic于 2008年创立，当时他决定辞去 Quiksilver眼镜和手表部门国际总监一职，推出自己的时计品牌。在这次创业历程中，他与定居洛杉矶的同胞 Jérôme Mage，以及 Joseph Chatel一起合作。 March LA.B品牌名称包含洛杉矶和比亚里茨两个城市首字母。通过推出配备优质自动机芯和别具风情的真皮表链的腕表系列，这个法国品牌寻求确立高端的定位。其腕表旨在吸引现代都市摩登公子，他们在自用后还可以把腕表作为遗产留给后代。March LA.B 腕表设计简约而优雅，采用超薄表盘，精致细节和复古风格。其许多表款都将 1960 年代和 1970 年代的氛围和风格与现代制造工艺结合，并彰显独特的细节。 March LA.B 腕表采纳的机芯包括日本品牌 Miyota 生产的可靠的 Miyota 9015——Miyota 是西铁城集团旗下品牌。 March LA.B 凭借著名的法国制表技艺，秉承法国风情。March LA.B 与 Franche-Comté 地区著名的装配大师和法国皮具大师联系紧密，秉承尊重当地制表传统的原则：注重质量，技术，可靠性和精确性。其腕表由高质素的大师组装和完成，他们一丝不苟地确保计时精准度和控制的精确度。这些专业人员对时计进行彻底的调整和测试，竭力保证腕表的最高可靠度。一旦产品的所有技术部分 52 | FEBRUARY- MARCH 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

arch LA.B is the example that is becoming increasingly rare in the watch industry. This is an independent watch brand that invests in the already well-laid ground by actors with history. It was founded in 2008 by the businessman Alain Marhic, who decided to leave his role as international director of the glasses and watches division at Quiksilver to launch his own brand of timepieces. In this adventure, he joined forces with compatriots Jérôme Mage, living in Los Angeles, and Joseph Chatel. Behind the name March LA.B are the initials of the two cities, Los Angeles and Biarritz. The French brand looks for a premium positioning, through the collection of watches that feature quality automatic movements and special leather bracelets. These pieces aim to attract the modern-day urban dandy, but who can leave them behind as a legacy to future generations. The design is minimalist and elegant, founded on thin dials, with refined details and vintage touches. The models – of which there are many – blend the environment and style of the 1960s and ‘70s with contemporary manufacturing, and feature distinctive details. The movements that wind the March LA.B watches include, for example, the reliable Miyota 9015 produced by Miyota, a Japanese brand from the Citizen group. March LA.B upholds the French touch, thanks to the renowned savoir faire of French

Essential WATCHES

完成，皮具大师将为 March LA.B 腕表配制各种各样奇特风情的天然真皮表链，皮原料来自巨型 tegu（一种阿根廷蜥蜴）、路易斯安那鳄鱼、水牛等动物，也采用小牛皮。 LA.B. March LA.B 已推出数个系列：第一个系列 AM 1，是品牌开山之作，紧接着是 AM 2，AM 3，AM 59，AM 69，AM 89，Agenda， Belza，Valois 和 Montpensier 系列。它们配备直径为 22mm 至 40mm 之间的圆形表盘，或者各种尺寸的方形和矩形表盘，各拥多个表款，每个表款又各有独具特色的彩色表盘和各种表壳细节。在自动版款式中，发光镂空表背彰显着 March LA.B.腕表的一个显著特色。 쐽 54 | FEBRUARY- MARCH 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

watchmaking. Associated to prestigious masters of assembling and of French leather goods in the Franche-Comté region, March LA.B champions the principle of respecting local watchmaking tradition: quality, technique, reliability and precision. The watches are assembled and finished by highly qualified masters, who ensure measurement precision and control exactitude. These professionals regulate and test these timepieces thoroughly, going to great lengths to care for their optimal reliability. Once all the technical parts of the pieces are done, the March LA.B watches are completed with an exotic and varied selection of natural leather bracelets, from

animals such as the giant tegu (a species of lizard from Argentina), the Louisiana alligator, the Box calf and the buffalo. There are several collections: the first, AM 1, corresponding to the brand’s launch, was followed by AM 2, AM 3, AM 59, AM 69, AM 89, Agenda, Belza, Valois and Montpensier. With round dials measuring between 22mm and 40mm in diameter, or square and rectangle dials of various sizes, they each have multiple versions distinguished by coloured dials and various case details. In the automatic versions, the luminous skeleton back is a distinctive sign of March LA.B. 쐽

2017 8-9 39 No. 39 August - September 2017

No. 80 June / July 2017

BASTARDINHO The temporary end of a unique wine O fim provisório de um vinho especial

Summer mood The city's best swimming pools

PANTHÈRE DE CARTIER The rebirth of an icon O renascer de um clássico

REAL ESTATE LUXURY BOUTIQUE Quintela e Penalva celebrates 13 years 13 anos de Quintela e Penalva

Clube Militar de Macau Historical paradise

ESSENTIAL Luxury, style, business, people, property, places and more Luxo, estilo, moda, personalidades, imobiliário, negócios e muito mais!

Panthère de Cartier

June-July 2017 €4.00

Macau MOP 50 Hong Kong HKD 50

Returning to life

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蓝调浪漫情怀 Blue RomanCe 摄影及助理 PhoTogRaPhy PedRo FeRReiRa, assisTed By ana Viegas 造型及助理 sTyling susana maRques PinTo, assisTed By BeaTRiz ClemenTe 化妆 make-uP PaTRiCk Van deR BeRg FoR www.skinliFe.PT 发型 haiR eRiC RiBeiRo FoR gRiFFehaiRsTyle 模特 model BeaTRiz, CenTRal models

连衣裙 Dress: Fracomina 胸针 Brooch: Isabel Lopes da Silva

开衫 Cardigan: Carlos Gil 衬衫 Blouse: 制作人私伙 Production’s own 长裤 Trousers: Gucci 手镯 Bracelet: Isabel Lopes da Silva 凉鞋 Sandals: 赛琳 Céline

外套 Jacket: 德赖斯·范诺顿 Dries Van Noten 短裙 Skirt: 赛琳 Céline 鞋 Shoes: Elisabetta Franchi 戒指、耳环 Rings and earrings: Machado Joalheiro

风衣 Trench coat: Diogo Miranda 紧身衣 Bodysuit: Elisabetta Franchi 耳环 Earrings: Isabel Lopes da Silva 戒指 Ring: David Rosas

连衣裙 Dress: 艾尔丹姆 Erdem 丝巾 Scarf: 迪奥 Dior

耳环 Earrings: Machado Joalheiro 靴子 Boots: 吉安维托·罗西 Gianvito Rossi

上衣 Top: MSGM 短裙 Skirt: Carlos Gil 手链 Bracelet: Isabel Lopes da Silva 手袋 Purse: 蔻依 Chloé 鞋 Shoes: 华伦天奴 Valentino

丝巾 Scarf: 珑骧 Longchamp 上衣 Top: Luis Carvalho

外套 Blazer: Alice + Olivia 短裙 Skirt: 杜嘉班纳 Dolce & Gabbana 耳环 Earrings: David Rosas 袜子 Socks: 卡赞尼 Calzedonia 鞋 Shoes: 迪奥 Dior

连衣裙 Dress: 艾尔丹姆 Erdem 丝巾 Scarf: 迪奥 Dior

Essential TRENDS

女士西装 In suit 男士西装礼服时装是当下最热服装潮流之一，而女士着迷男装的也不是什么新鲜的事。Haute Couture (高定)系列和限量版系列的两件和三件式西装之所以与众不同，在于能赋予女士一种恒久优雅的气质 Tuxedo fashion is one of the biggest trends at the moment, and women’s fascination with menswear is nothing new. From Haute Couture lines to Limited Editions, the two- or three-piece suit stands out in collections for the timeless elegance it grants the female form 文/by CATARINA VASQUES RITO

Ralph & Russo

70 | FEBRUARY- MARCH 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

ves Saint Laurent伊夫·圣罗兰推出了一些女士翘首以待的服装。其实，它是首个将这类服装列入其堪称完美的产品系列的女装品牌。 19世纪 70年代，演员莎拉·伯恩哈特(Sarah Bernhardt)穿起其称为 “男孩服装”的量身定制西装，震惊了巴黎社会；上世纪30年代，德国演员玛莲·德烈治 (Marlene Dietrich)在奥地利裔美国导演约瑟夫·冯·史登堡(Josef von Sternberg ) (18941969)执导的《摩洛哥》 (1930)和《金发维纳斯》(1932)中都穿过西装；40年代，墨西哥裔美国女人穿上有名的阻特装(爵士音乐人穿阻特装来将自己和中产男性白人分别开)，象征她们反对当时社会认为女人应该在家照看孩子的固有观念。其他迷上两件和三件式西装的女演员有嘉芙莲·夏萍(Katherine Hepburn)和金·露华 (Kim Novak)，后者在亚弗列 ·希治阁 (Alfred Hitchcock) (1899-1980)执导的《迷魂记》(1958)里穿了荷里活知名人士、剧装设计师伊迪丝· 希德(Edith Head)设计的西装。当时希德也负责黛碧 ·海伦 (Tippi Hedren)在希治阁作品《鸟》(1963)中的绿色西装。 1666 年，伊夫 ·圣罗兰推出 Le Smoking 吸烟装系列女士西装，被视为品牌创始人 “最伟大的创作”。礼服的亮点在于剪裁彰显了女士性感的弧形身体轮廓、打破男性服装

ves Saint Laurent gave women some of the pieces they had long coveted. In fact, it was the first couturier to introduce them into its faultless collections. In the 1870s, actress Sarah Bernhardt shocked Parisian society when she wore a tailor-made suit, which she called her “boy’s clothes”. In the 1930s, German actress Marlene Dietrich wore a suit in Morocco (1930) and Blonde Venus (1932), both by Austrian-American director Josef von Sternberg (1894-1969). During the 40’s, MexicanAmerican women wore the famous zoot suits — which were also used by jazz musicians, to separate themselves from the middle-class white man —, as a symbol of rebellion and resistance to the stereotypes imposed to women’s role in society back then: that they should be home taking care of the children. Other actresses who fell for the allure of two- and three-piece suits include Katherine Hepburn and Kim Novak. The latter wore a suit in Vertigo (1958), from Alfred Hitchcock (18991980), created by costume designer Edith Head (one of Hollywood’s biggest names), who was also responsible for the green suits used by Tippi Hedren’s character in Hitchcock’s The Birds (1963). Launched in 1966, Yves Saint Laurent’s

Christian Dior

Alexandre Vauthier

Giambattista Valli

Givenchy Schiaparelli

Alberta Ferretti

Essential TRENDS

的严肃形象。值得注意的是，吸烟装的美感在于它的构造，而原料的选择起了关键的作用(布料越好，最终结果越好)。不论潮流如何变化，今冬及未来的高定系列都采用这种古典的风格。其它品牌也有推出相应的服装，包括阿尔伯特 ·菲尔蒂 (Alberta Ferretti)、亚历山大 ·福提 (Alexandre Vauthier)、迪奥(Dior)、艾莉·萨博(Elie Saab)、詹巴迪斯塔 ·瓦利 (Giambattista Valli)、纪梵希 (Givenchy)、尚 ·保罗 ·高堤耶 (Jean-Paul Gaultier)、Ralph & Russo、罗纳德·范·德肯普 (Ronald van der Kemp)、夏帕瑞丽(Schiaparelli)、索尼亚 ·里基尔 (Sonia Rykiel)和 Viktor&Rolf。当中有些奢华西装融合了吸烟装和优雅的两件或三件式西装风格，设计上极具派对风格。要出席派对或专业场合，选穿西装总是安全的。现代设计可以，也应该着重细节和/ 或服装的颜色，而布料在其中充当重要的角色。女士西装可搭配高腰阔脚、窄脚紧身或中腰直筒的西裤，外套可选是否带有垫肩、宽松或修身、单排或双排扣、也有 1 至 4 个钮扣的供选择。你应该按照自己的品味和风格作出选择，当然，还可以妙配男士风格的鞋 (如牛津鞋、雕花鞋或乐福鞋)，高跟鞋(如细高跟)，甚至休闲运动鞋。 쐽

Viktor & Rolf

Elie Saab

Le Smoking for women was hailed as “his greatest creation”! A tuxedo is highlighted by the sensual curves of the female silhouette, breaking trough the severe image associated with the male universe. It is worth noting that the beauty of this piece of menswear lies in its construction, where the raw materials have a crucial role (the better the fabric, the better the final result). Haute Couture collections for this winter and all coming seasons have submitted to this fashion classic, regardless of fleeting trends. Echoing just that are the offers from collections by Alberta Ferretti, Alexandre Vauthier, Christian Dior, Elie Saab, Giambattista Valli, Givenchy, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Ralph & Russo, Ronald van der Kemp, Schiaparelli, Sonia Rykiel or Viktor&Rolf.

Among these luxury lines, the suit can in some cases have a very party-oriented design, in an inspirational mix between a smoking and a classic-cut, two- or three-piece suit. In a professional or party context, suits are always a safe option; the modern approach can, and should, be in the details and/or colour where fabric has an important role to play. Women’s suits can play with high-rise (wide-leg) or narrow (cigarette) trouser models, or straightcut with regular rise. As for the jacket, the choice of model can fall on one to four buttons; simple or double breasted; fitted or straight cut; padded shoulders or not. Your choices should match your taste and style. And, of course, suits can be wonderfully paired with male-inspired shoes (oxfords, brogues or loafers), high heels (stilettos) and even sneakers. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2019年 2月- 3月 | 73

Essential BEAUTY

做坏女孩的感觉真好！卡罗琳娜·海莱娜（Carolina Herrera)）最新推出了一款女性气息浓郁的香水——Good Girl。光彩四射的香水瓶，采用恨天高外形和金色高跟细节，并包含一个复杂的内压机制。两款香水及香水瓶都洋溢着性感、自信、妩媚及强大的女性特质。海莱娜品牌的时装和香水是纽约风格的缩影，以不经意的优雅和精致而闻名。卡罗琳娜·海莱娜的全新香水充分展现了当代女性的多面风格，并透过广告#标签（hashtag） “It’s so good to be bad”（做坏女孩的感觉真好！）而进一步广泛传播。著名超模卡莉·克劳斯（Karlie Kloss）则担任香水平面广告的大使。

It’s so good to be bad Carolina Herrera launched a new ultra-feminine fragrance, Good Girl. The luminous bottle, a midnightblue, ultra-high stiletto and gold heel, includes a complex internal pressure system. Both fragrance and bottle express the sensual, confident, feminine and powerful nature of the woman. The House of Herrera has created fashion and fragrances defined by the effortless elegance and sophistication that epitomises New York style. Carolina Herrera’s new fragrance reflects the multidimensional attitudes of the modern woman, further expressed through the campaign hashtag, “It’s so good to be bad”. Super model Karlie Kloss is the face of the print campaign.

丰满诱人双唇女人永远都少不了一支口红。深知这一点的圣罗兰美妆（YSL Beauté）又为品牌经典的 Volupté 纯魅系列迎来新成员 ——Volupté Tint-in-Balm 莹亮纯魅美唇膏。纯魅系列唇膏是一款充满摇滚叛逆气息的夹心唇膏，含有开创性特别配方，轻轻一抹让双唇立现丰满立体效果。纯魅系列以其独特配方享誉业界，赋予唇部持久光泽和营养呵护。Volupté Tint-in-Balm 莹亮纯魅美唇膏采用银管包装，以区别于同系列的 Rouge Volupté Shine 莹亮纯魅唇膏，但透过镂空管圈也一样可以看出唇膏颜色。全新系列共含有 8 个全新、大胆的迷人色彩。另一款标志性的 Rouge Volupté Shine 莹亮纯魅唇膏系列也迎来了 12 种清新色彩。品牌著名配方中的保湿成分、石榴提取物和明亮微色素有助于滋养双唇，一抹丝丝入扣，日复一日，呵护美唇。

Plump up the volume Women never have enough lipsticks. Wit this in mind, YSL Beauté introduces the new edition of its signature Volupté family, the Tint-in-Balm. The chic lipstick has a rock and edgy black balm heart at its core, containing a special formula to stimulate the lips and make them look fuller. Thanks to the unique formula this collection is known for, a shining texture and well-conditioned lips are a given. With a silver casing to distinguish it from its mother lipstick, Rouge Volupté Shine, the ring once again reveals the colour inside. The new edition has eight new bold, eye-catching shades. Another iconic Rouge Volupté Shine collection also welcomes 12 new shades. The famous formula glides on like a caress, thanks to hydrating ingredients, pomegranate extract and bright pigments which help to condition the lips.

74 | FEBRUARY- MARCH 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential BEAUTY

“印”上你的唇说到专业化妆品牌，法国美妆品牌玫珂菲（MAKE UP FOR EVER）的产品一直都颇受化妆师们的青睐。其产品包装也许不像其他品牌那样让人眼花缭乱，但品牌却在创新改良产品方面花足了心思。最近，玫珂菲推出了全新的轻盈液体唇彩 ARTIST ROUGE INK 艺术大师诱色唇拓。该款唇拓的灵感源自能打造出舒适饱满色彩美唇效果的化妆师，打造雾面质感，质地轻盈不厚重。ARTIST ROUGE INK 艺术大师诱色唇拓含有 10 款亮丽色彩，粉丝色、珊瑚橘到正红色、再到紫红色，让你每天都有焕然一新的完美形象。

Ink your lips When it comes to the professional make-up brands, MAKE UP FOR EVER products are always beloved by make-up artists. The package of the products may no be as lavish as other brands’, but the French house pays much attention in innovating a large range of creative products. Recently, the brand introduced ARTIST ROUGE INK, the new airlight liquid lip colour. Inspired by make-up artists who crave intense lip looks with a comfortable wear, this lipstick offers a mattecoloured finish with lightweight wear. ARTIST ROUGE INK is available in 10 luminous shades from pink or coral, to red and purple for a new look every day.

超模的秘密 T 台上模特们的妆容一向都完美无暇、光彩照人。但我们如何在日常生活中为自己打造这样的完美妆容呢？答案就是迪奥（Dior）Backstage 超模后台彩妆系列。该系列是品牌首个从秀场后台汲取灵感的产品系列，由迪奥美妆创意及形象总监 Peter Philips 倾情设计，令每一位女性都能收获模特般专业的妆容。选择适合自己的粉底是化妆过程中的关键步骤，在系列 21 个面部、身体粉底液色号中，定有一款适合您，并让您的肌肤散发完美自然光泽。为了满足所有肤色，Peter Philips 和迪奥实验室设计了 Universal Pro Palettes 后台彩妆多功能专业化妆盘，包括 Glow Face Palette 后台彩妆高光腮红盘、Lip Palette 后台彩妆唇部裁判、Contour Palette 后台彩妆眼部彩盘和两个 Brow Palettes 后台彩妆眉彩盘。

The secret of supermodels The make-up of models on runways is always flawless and stunning. But how can we recreate these perfect looks in our daily life? The answer is using Dior Backstage products: the first make-up line inspired by the backstage and designed by Peter Philips, Creative and Image Director for Dior Makeup, for every woman who wants a professional result. Selecting a suitable foundation is the key step of your make-up process, and with the new, 21-shade Face & Body Foundation, costumers can easily get a perfect skin with a natural, luminous finish. In order to fit all styles, Peter Philips and the Dior laboratories designed the Universal Pro Palettes, including the Glow Face Palette, the Lip Palette, the Contour Palette and two Brow Palettes.

澳门精华 | 2019年 2月- 3月 | 75

Essential BAZAAR

携手为环保

ཽ 纯白之美

Vivienne Westwood & Burberry 系列是里卡多·提西(Riccardo Tisci)成为博柏利（Burberry）创意总监以来推出的首个合作系列。系列赞颂英伦风格和历史传承，从薇薇安·威斯特伍德（Vivienne Westwood）的传奇经典作品总汲取灵感，例如双排扣外套、齐腰夹克、迷你苏格兰裙、厚底鞋和贝雷帽，进行重新演绎。该限量版系列采用中性风格，仅能在网上和全球各地精选店铺购买。两位设计师持有共同的愿景：支持和促进非盈利组织 Cool Earth。该组织致力于对抗热带雨林砍伐和气候变化。系列包括一件宽松Ｔ恤，其销售利润将捐献给 Cool Earth。

优雅、简约、精致，宇舶（Hublot） Big Bang 42 毫米腕表周身素白，洋溢着休闲气息和永恒的高雅风范。该腕表的尺寸和色彩男女都适合佩戴。2018 年，瑞士制表品牌宇舶推出了 Big Bang Unico 42 毫米中性腕表，为品牌打开了中性腕表世界的大门。Big Bang 42 毫米腕表能够问世，要归功于品牌第二枚自主研发生产的 UNICO 机芯 HUB1280。 Big Bang 42 White 白色腕表通体白色，象征和谐一统，也能完美搭配任何颜色的服饰，是男女都必不可少的永恒腕表。

铿锵玫瑰蔻依（Chloé）标志性的女士太阳镜又推出了全新造型。更为率真的线条明显地受六七十年代的权利归花运动（Flower Power，反战、追求爱与和平的嬉皮士运动）启发。太阳镜镜片采用心形形状，准备拥抱“爱之夏”（Summer of Love，此语来自六、七十年的嬉皮士运动最高潮）。该款太阳镜的镜片有四种不同渐变色调的颜色，令眼镜更为精致妩媚。

New Rosie Chloé’s iconic female sunglass model has a new shape. In a clear allusion to the Flower Power movement from the 60’s and 70’s, it now features even more explicit reference lines. As if gearing up for a Summer of Love, the lenses are now heart-shaped. The final touch of originality and sophistication is provided by the lenses’ colours, which come in four different shades with a fading effect. www.chloe.com

七十年代迪斯科风情 2019 Resort 早春度假系列的面世标志着 M Missoni 重归母牌米索尼（Missoni）旗下。在品牌创意总监 Angela Missoni 的指引下，系列歌颂七十年代迪斯科（Disco）时期的欢乐、个性化表达、自由和积极向上的精神。闪光效果、发光布料和金属色调，各款单品采用了活力、热情的色彩，从流行的橙色到粉色，再到清新的绿色和蓝绿色，与针织的密集 M Missoni 标志形成和谐格调。

White on white

Vivienne meets Burberry Vivienne Westwood & Burberry is the first collaboration from Burberry with its newly appointed creative director, Riccardo Tisci, at the helm. Setting out to celebrate British style and heritage, this collection is inspired by iconic pieces from Vivienne Westwood, such as double-breasted coats, a hugger jacket and a mini-kilt, platform shoes and a beret, reinvented in Burberry’s signature check pattern. With a unisex approach, the limited-edition line is only available online and in select shops worldwide. The two creators also came together for a common vision: supporting and promoting Cool Earth, an NGO fighting deforestation and climate changes. The collection includes an oversized t-shirt, whose sales benefit this organisation. www.burberry.com 76 | FEBRUARY- MARCH 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

M Missoni 70’s Disco The 2019 Resort collection marks the return of the M Missoni line to its parent band. Under the guidance of creative director Angela Missoni, the collection celebrates the joy, personal expression, freedom and positivity of the 70’s Disco period. Shiny effects, sparkling fabrics and metallic shadows are balanced by the intense, knitted M Missoni motifs, developed in a vibrant colour palette, ranging from popping shades of orange and pink to fresh tones of green and turquoise. www.missoni.com

Elegant, minimalist and refined, the Big Bang 42 mm is dressed all in white for a relaxed and timeless look. Its size and colour make it equally at home in men's or women's wardrobe. In 2018, Hublot launched the Big Bang Unico 42 mm, a new diameter that opened up the world of unisex watches to the brand. This diameter was made possible thanks to the second version of the brand's UNICO proprietary manufacture movement, the calibre HUB1280, which is protected by four patents. Dressed entirely in white, a symbol of unity and harmony and the perfect match for any col-our, the Big Bang Unico 42 White is a neutral and timeless addition to any wardrobe. www.hublot.com

Essential BAZAAR

航空风格时计受飞行器和航空黄金时代的启发而创立的瑞士钟表制造品牌柏莱士（Bell & Ross），推出了两款全新 BR-Bird 航空系列腕表。品牌在瑞士拉绍德封（La Chaux-de-Fonds）的工作室制造了一架线条优美的 BR-Bird 飞机，并遵循同样的美学风格，推出了 Racing Bird 航空系列腕表 BR V1 和 BR V2。两款腕表都搭载全自动上弦机芯，每款限量发行 999 只。BR V1 腕表搭载 BR-CAL.302 机芯和直径 38.5mm 的抛光精钢表壳；BR V1 腕表则搭载 BR-CAL.301 机芯和直径为 42mm 的抛光精钢表壳。

定制自己的鳄鱼法国服饰品牌鳄鱼（Lacoste）即将推出全家 Polo 衫的私人定制服务。客户可以在网上订购，也可以到鳄鱼专卖店使用平板电脑技术享受定制服务。个性定制第一步需要选择男、女或儿童的款式和颜色。第二步，选择是否想要内外颜色对比鲜明的领子和领口。至于品牌的标志鳄鱼，也有全新的版本，从天然真皮或彩绘皮革到树脂，再到受不同国家国旗颜色而启发设计的各种图案。最后，顾客还可以选择在袖子或 Polo 衫底部绣上至多四个字母，彰显个人特色。

詹姆斯·迪恩之书写工具万宝龙（Montblanc）Great Characters Edition 名人系列于 2009 年首次问世。品牌的目标是打造一系列限量版书写工具，向那些在生活和工作中对社会产生积极和持久影响的重要人物致敬。品牌推出的最新一款作品是为了纪念美国杰出演员詹姆斯·迪恩（James Byron Dean，1931-1955）。这位 24 岁就英年早逝的演员，拥有辉煌的事业，是当时最受欢迎的演员之一，其非凡的个人魅力也令他成为最伟大的好莱坞传奇之一。万宝龙著名人物系列詹姆斯·迪恩的三件书写工具，糅合了其最著名的电影中的经典元素。

James Dean inspiration Personal Alligator Lacoste has new alligators to customise the entire family’s polos. You can order it online or through the bespoke services at shops using tablet technology. The first step is deciding on the model and colour base, for men, women or children. Next, it’s also possible to decide whether or not you want a contrasting collar inside and outside, and the same for the sleeves’ borders. As for the alligator, Lacoste brings forth new variations, ranging from natural or painted leather and silicone to patterns inspired by flags from different nationalities. Finally, you can also inscribe up to four letters on the polo’s sleeve or at the bottom, as a personal signature. www.lacoste.com

The first Montblanc Great Characters Edition was released in 2009. The brand’s goal was to create a line of limited-edition writing instruments, set to honour important figures whose life and work had a positive and lasting impact on society. The latest standout is American actor James Byron Dean (1931-1955). The actor, who passed away prematurely at 24 years old, had a blazing career which immortalised him as one of the most popular actors of his time, and turned him into one of Hollywood’s greatest legends, thanks to his charisma. Reflecting this, the three pieces inspired by Dean incorporate several evocative elements from his biggest films. www.montblanc.com

奢华秋日 Purple Label 是美国时装品牌拉夫 ·劳伦(Ralph Lauren)推出的首个系列，如今焕然新生，以 Purple Label 2019 秋季系列再次全新推送。拉夫·劳伦从自己热爱的马术和马术世界的生活方式汲取灵感设计了该系列。系列以缤纷的秋季色彩为基调，如褐红色、森林绿和深蓝色，结合羊绒呢、天鹅绒、麂皮等奢华面料。系列的细节精致丰富，从具有复杂马术图案的卫衣，到印有刺绣海军肩章的双排扣大衣，都为系列增加了奢华稳重的绅士风范。

Luxurious Autumn Ralph Lauren Purple Label, the first line from the American brand, recently presented its Autumn 2019 men’s collection. For this, Ralph Lauren took inspiration from his passion for horses and the accompanying lifestyle. The rich colours usually associated with the season, such as maroon, green and dark blue, follow each other in luxurious fabrics such as cashmere tweeds, velvet and suede, in a collection where rich details prevail. From copiously patterned jumpers with equestrian images to the embroidered, naval-inspired heraldry on the double-breasted coats, it all adds to an affirmative and luxurious look. www.ralphlauren.com

Flying machines Bell & Ross, a Swiss watchmaking brand inspired by flight equipment and the golden age of aviation, has two new BR-Bird models, which follow another aeronautical adventure — the launch of the homonymous airplane, a flying machine with spectacular lines from the brand’s studio, manufactured in La Chaux-de-Fonds. The two new Racing Bird models, BR V1 and BR V2, share the same aesthetic as the racing plane that inspired them. Both pieces feature automatic mechanical movements and are limited to 999 units. The BR V1 is equipped with BR-CAL.302 calibre inside a 38.5mm polished-steel case, while the BR V2’s chronometer has a BR-CAL.301 calibre, also inside a polished-steel case of 41mm in diameter. www.bellross.com

澳门精华 | 2019年 2月- 3月 | 77

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美国梦 The American dream 拉夫 ·劳伦（Ralph Lauren）迎来个人时尚生涯第 50 周年，已成为名垂青史的当代设计师之一。虽然设计风格已足够多样，但这位美国设计师始终拥抱变化，同时坚守品牌的气节 Celebrating his 50-year career, Ralph Lauren is one of the designers who have made their mark on our time. Despite the diversity of his collections, the American designer has always kept pace with change without ever losing the brand’s integrity 文/by ÁLVARO TAVARES RAMOS

993 年，当奥黛丽 ·赫本将美国时尚设计师协会终身成就奖颁给拉夫·劳伦时，她称他为美国文化特色的代表人物，是他将美丽、舒适和美国梦带给了百万人。“很难定义拉夫·劳伦。没有一个形容词能够描述他所代表的东西。他不仅创造了关于时尚和风格的完整概念，而且通过个人的坚持和气节，他也能够保护它，一直提醒我们生命中最美好的事物。作为一名设计师，拉夫提醒人们所有那些他认为重要的东西：乡村、有雾的清晨、夏日午后、广阔的空间、玉米地和菜园、冉冉燃烧的壁炉火和杰克罗素梗犬。” 就像这位殿堂级女演员一样，许多美国人都认同拉夫·劳伦在他服饰中使用了数十年的视觉语言。他的品牌代表着美国的乐观精神，不仅是个“美国制造”的象征，更是不朽美国梦的理想化呈现。由于美国存在经济和种族差异，拉夫·劳伦在设计上使用的“学院风”形象曾主导着美国人的情怀许多年。尽管反复渲染新英格兰地区田园风光或积雪覆盖山杨树山坡的画面，但其品牌始终拥有来自各个社会背景的追随者。品牌如此自然地渗透在整个美国社 78 | FEBRUARY- MARCH 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

会，就像非官方的指定服装一样。每个人都想拥有这位设计师的一件衣物。甚至在 1980 年代末，在纽约布鲁克林区有一群青少年太喜欢“拉夫劳伦 Polo 衫”，他们联合起来，潜入纽约都会区的百货店大肆偷窃拉夫劳伦 Polo 衫。这个团伙名叫“Lo Lifes”（社会底层人物），由说唱歌手 Thirstin Howl III 创立。他们声称 Polo 衫已受到都市大众的喜爱，与其典型的富人消费者大异其趣。虽然当局视他们为罪犯，但对于社会底层人士和街头帮派而言，他们的行动有着完全不同的意义。这个团伙通过大块颜色的标识、徽章和硕大的 “拉夫劳伦 Polo”丝绸图案，展现出一种代表财富的标记和装饰（尽管本来该品牌并没有以财富作为卖点）。他们围绕着拉夫劳伦品牌创造出一种独特的风格，并将自身视为攀附上流社会的罗宾汉。该团伙的行为最后迎来了拉夫 ·劳伦对于自己卑微出身的回响。拉夫生于 1939 年纽约的布朗克斯区，来自白罗斯的犹太移民家庭。在里佐利出版社出版的关于他 50 年职业生涯的书中，拉夫（原姓利夫希茨）写道，从童年起，他一直希望触及一个似乎遥不可及

n 1993, when Audrey Hepburn handed the CFDA Lifetime Achievement Award to Ralph Lauren, she described him as someone who was essential for American cultural identity, who brought beauty, comfort and the American dream to millions. “It is hard to define Ralph Lauren. There isn’t one single adjective to describe what he represents. He not only created a total concept of fashion and style, but through his consistency and integrity he managed to protect it, always reminding us of the best things in life. As a designer, Ralph evokes all those things that he finds important: the countryside, the misty early mornings, summer afternoons, wide open spaces, the fields of corn and vegetable gardens, open hearth fires and Jack Russell terriers”. Just like the iconic actress, many Americans have always identified with the visual language that Ralph Lauren has used for decades in his collections. The brand is synonymous with the spirit of optimism in the United States and is not just one of the Made in America symbols

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与家人在阿斯彭 Photo of the family in Aspen

的世界。“在我很小的时候，在布朗克斯区长大，我透过窗户看世界，看到了自己的梦想。跟许多年轻人一样，我不知道我能否成功，因为当你生于一个穷困的家庭，跟许多年轻人一样，需要工作才能买到一件衬衣或一条裤子的时候，任何事你都不会觉得理所当然。” 他的童年梦想之一就是拥有一双蓝色绒面革的鞋子，那是他在上学路上的橱窗里看到的，但当时他没钱买。“我觉得我依然是那个站在橱窗外的孩子，满怀同样的热情，渴望着难以企及的东西，正是这些可爱和恒久的东西构成一个新世界并带领我们前往那里。” 着迷于捕捉身边世界的美好，这在拉夫很早的时候已经开始，正如在 1967 年他以 “Polo”的品牌创造出首个领带系列。虽然以 “学院风 ”闻名，但拉夫一直喜欢实用性的服装及其内在的品质。“我一直喜爱有目的性设计的服装，例如工作服、制服以及制造它们 80 | FEBRUARY- MARCH 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

but also an idealised reflection of the eternal American dream. The ‘preppy’ image that Ralph Lauren has used in his campaigns has filled the American psyche for many years with an America divided by economic and racial disparity. Despite the recurring reference to idyllic New England scenes or the snow-capped mountains of Aspen, the brand has always found followers from all social backgrounds. As proof of its organic reach throughout American society, the brand’s clothing has become a non-official uniform of the country. Everyone wants to own an item of clothing from the designer. It came to the point that at the end of the 1980s tribes of young Brooklyn adolescents obsessed with Polo Ralph Lauren joined forces to get what they could of Polo Ralph Lauren clothes by shoplifting from

department stores in the metropolitan area of New York. Known as ‘Lo Lifes’, this gang founded by rapper Thirstin Howl III claimed that Polo had become appealing to an urban public, a far cry from the brand’s typical privileged country club consumers. While the authorities saw them as criminals, for the Low Lifes and for the street gangs their campaign took on whole different meaning. By using large logos with blocs of colour, the insignias and the bold silk patterns of Polo Ralph Lauren, this group displayed these symbols and trappings of wealth which wasn’t even marketed at them at all. They created a unique style based around the brand and saw themselves as social-climbing Robin Hoods. The gang’s behaviour ended up by echoing the humble origins of Ralph Lauren himself,

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born in the Bronx in 1939, the son of emigre Bielorussian Jews. In Rizzoli’s book dedicated to the designer’s 50-year-long career, Lauren (born in Lifshitz) states that since his childhood he had always desired to reach a world that seemed out of reach. “When I was very young, growing up in the Bronx, I saw the world through a window, through which I saw my dreams. Like many young people, I didn’t know if I would ever achieve it because when you are born into a family without money, like many young people, and have to work to buy a shirt or a pair of trousers, you can’t take anything for granted.” One of his childhood dreams was to own a pair of shoes in blue suede which he saw in a shop window on his way to school and for which he didn’t have the money to buy. “I still think I’m that same boy in front of that shop window, full of the same enthusiasm, yearning for something that is beyond my reach, something lovely and timeless that conjures up a world and takes us there.” This fascination to capture the beauty of the world around him started early, when Ralph 拉夫·劳伦小时候 Ralph Lauren as a boy

澳门精华 | 2019年 2月- 3月 | 81

照片 Photo: Chris Jackson, Getty Images

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与家人2014年在温莎城堡英国皇家马斯登慈善晚宴。 Family photo in 2014 at the Royal Marsden Gala at Windsor Castle.

的面料。它们有某种气节在里面。军装的设计必须是耐穿，但普通人其实也可以为了表达英雄气概而穿军服。在成长的岁月里，军官的制服给我留下很深的印象。他们履行职责，保家卫国，是我们的英雄。穿上陈旧的军大衣，即在某种程度上反映出强壮、坚强和勇士的品质。” 大量几乎是互相矛盾的态度和生活方式集聚于同一个名号，是拉夫及其品牌极为优秀的表现之一，在潮流转瞬即逝的社会中脱颖而出。“他给了我们西部的浪漫、好莱坞式的华丽、游猎的冒险、新英格兰的纯净、现代海滨别墅悠闲的空气以及英式宅第的奢华，” 奥黛丽 ·赫本如此评论着这位从未接受过正规时尚教育的创造者。

82 | FEBRUARY- MARCH 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Polo Ralph Lauren2018春季男装系列

Polo Ralph Lauren, Man. Spring collection 2018

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Polo Ralph Lauren2018秋季男装系列 Polo Ralph Lauren, Men’s Autumn Collection 2018

Lauren created his first collection of ties in 1967 under the brand name Polo. Despite being known as a ‘preppy’ style, Lauren always felt attracted to utilitarian clothing and its intrinsic quality. “I have always loved clothing designed with an aim in mind - work clothes, uniforms and the fabric from which they were made. They have a certain integrity. The uniform that a soldier wears is designed to be hard-wearing, but it also suits anyone wearing it as a platform for heroism. While growing up, the officers in uniform made a big impression on me. They were doing their duty, protecting our country and they were heroes. When putting on an old military coat there’s a certain link to these qualities: being strong, tough and a warrior.” The ability to hang a multitude of almost contradictory attitudes and lifestyles on the same name was one of the great virtues of the brand and Ralph Lauren himself who stood out among a society dominated by passing trends. “He gave us the Romance of the West, the glamour of Hollywood, the adventure of a safari, the purity of New England, the relaxed air of a modern beach house, the wealth of an English stately home,” said Audrey Hepburn 84 | FEBRUARY- MARCH 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

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拉夫·劳伦的汽车收藏 Ralph Lauren’s magnificent collection of classic cars

然而，美国西部孤身只影的神秘牛仔才最让拉夫着迷，他从中看到自己极度叛逆的品质。西部牛仔是美国流行文化中最后一个难以触碰的象征。“一路走来我都爱着‘学院风’ 的服饰传统，而突然之间，我开始转向狂野的西部——牛仔服装和靴子。两种风格都很美式，但从某种程度而言，人们对西部的情感一直没变。”受西部生活的启发，拉夫和他家人最终在加利福尼亚州买下一个大牧场，那是他梦想成真的地方，而土地、马匹、群山以及木屋和大自然，成为了更自由的生活象征。拉夫 ·劳伦似乎是自身各个方面的矛盾混合体，然而，他的气节、谦逊和做人的态度让他成为美国的重要人物。“对我来说，志向永远不是金钱，而是做自己、有信念和做个独特的人”，拉夫在里佐利出版社出版的书中如是说。尽管被视为美国最富有的人之一，拉夫从未忘记他的根以及美国梦的本质。他在支持抗癌方面作出着重要贡献，在全球协助成立各种治疗中心，还有他的许多人道主义活动以及接地气的能力，让他成为美国社会中不可或缺的人物。与许多人一样，美国名嘴奥普拉·温弗瑞曾公开表达钦佩他，并在他五十周年时尚生涯的庆典中献上颂词：“您把我们提升到美丽的更高境界，皆因您做着自己。您在乎美丽，关心家庭和要紧的事物，您在乎自由和气节……” 쐽 86 | FEBRUARY- MARCH 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

about the creator who never received a formal education in fashion. However, it was the lone figure of the mythical cowboy from the American West that fascinated Ralph Lauren who saw in him the ultimate renegade, the last untouchable symbol of popular American culture. “I grew up liking

the tradition of ‘preppy’ clothes, and then all of a sudden I began to move towards the traditions of the wild west - jeans and cowboy boots. Both styles were very American, but the sensibility of the West has remained intact to a certain extent.” Inspired by the Western life, Lauren and his family ended up buying a ranch in

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美国西部手表系列：为庆祝五十周年，由Richemont集团合作推出最新精致手表系列，展现了这位来自美国西部的时装设计师的热情

The American Western Watch Collection: the latest exquisite collection of watch jewellery created in partnership with the Richemont Group to mark the 50th anniversary of Ralph Lauren and inspired by the fashion designer’s long-standing passion for the American West

California where his dream became a reality and the land, the horses and the mountains, the wooden cabins and nature became synonymous with a freer lifestyle. Ralph Lauren could seem to be a contradiction, with all his facets, however his integrity, humility and his sense of who he is make him an important figure in the United States. “For me my aspirations were never about the money, it was about being someone, believing in something and being an individual”, says Lauren in the book published by Rizzoli. Despite being considered one of the richest men in the United States, Ralph Lauren has never forgotten his origins and the true essence of the American dream. His important contribution in the fight against cancer, by supporting the setting up of various treatment centres around the world, his many humanitarian campaigns and his capacity to stay true to reality, making him an essential figure in American society. Oprah Winfrey, one of his confessed admirers paid tribute to him at a celebration of the designer’s fifty years in the fashion business. “You raise us up to a higher sense of beauty and you can do that because of who you are. You are someone who cares about beauty, family and the things that matter, you care about freedom and integrity...” 쐽

澳门精华 | 2019年 2月- 3月 | 87

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“ 潮 ”贺新春 Celebrating Chinese New Year in style 奢侈品牌绝从不会错过任何节庆，农历猪年来临之际，各大奢侈品牌推出缤纷多彩的各式新春礼品。春节的色彩 — — 红色、黄色和金色很快就会攻陷全球各地 Never ones to miss out on a good party, luxury brands are making sure there are plenty of festive favours to go around. In celebration of the Chinese New Year, commemorations across the globe will erupt in a flurry of red, yellow and gold 文/by EDWINA LIU 88 | FEBRUARY- MARCH 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

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国生肖 12 年一轮回，分别有 12 个属相象征这 12 年；2019 年即将迎来农历猪年。属相为猪的人为人诚实大度、乐观和蔼、且富于同情心。瑞士高级珠宝腕表品牌伯爵（Piaget）推出了一款限量版掐丝珐琅腕表，献礼农历猪年。该腕表表盘上是一只栩栩如生的珐琅福猪。珐琅工艺大师需要首先依照设计图用金丝勾勒出形象轮廓，再以特制凝胶加以固定，划分出无数个小格，作为珐琅颜料的填色依据。伯爵珐琅工艺大师游刃有余地在表盘的方寸之间精雕细琢，恰到好处地拿捏色彩和光影，惟妙惟肖地展现了福猪的体态与神情，让表盘散发优雅柔光。此款手工打造的珍贵珐琅腕表，白金表壳上镶饰 78 颗明亮式切割钻石，搭配黑色鳄鱼皮表带。除生肖猪之外，象征吉祥快乐的红色也贯穿伯爵中国新年系列。若想以低调地方式庆贺新春，可以选择一款红色配饰。伯爵的

Possession 系列以绚丽夺目的金色、钻石和装饰宝石庆贺新春。系列的吸睛之作有开放式手镯、戒指；炫丽的红玉髓表盘的玫瑰金腕表和一款红玉髓吊坠。瑞士钟表品牌雅克德罗（Jaquet Droz）则推出了两款红金材质的 Petite Heure Minute Pig 小猪图案时分小针盘腕表，和一款 Petite Heure Minute Relief Pig 浮雕猪时分小针盘腕表，分别限量发行 28 枚和 8 枚。 Petite Heure Minute Pig 腕表将雅克德罗 2653.P 自动上弦机芯的卓绝技艺同华美的工艺艺术相结合。一款为女士腕表，配备 35mm 直径镶钻表壳；另一款为中性腕表，配备 39mm 直径不镶钻表壳。两款腕表均运用微绘工艺，呈现一只小猪在麦田前悠然踱步的景象。雅克德罗以其钟爱的自然主义手法，通过成熟的麦子寓意丰足与繁荣，麦田前闲适自在的小猪则象征平和与智慧。 Petite Heure Minute Relief Pig 浮雕猪时分小针盘腕表表盘上则描绘了一只野猪伫立

ccording to the Chinese Zodiac, each year from a 12-year cycle is represented by an animal; and in 2019 it is the pig’s turn. People born under this sign are believed to be honest, forgiving, good-tempered, cheerful and compassionate. Maison Piaget pays the homage to the pig with a stunning, limited timepiece. The glittering watch features a vivid enamel of this animal on the dial. The enamelling artisan had to draw onto the surface using gold thread fixed into place with a special glue, thus creating miniature partitions, or cloisons, in which the enamel pigments were delicately placed. The artist used her mastery of lights and shades to create an adorable pig with a life-like velvety coat. The watch’s white gold case is set with 78 brilliant-cut diamonds to frame this precious handcrafted enamel masterpiece, presented with a black alligator leather strap. 澳门精华 | 2019年 2月- 3月 | 89

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在八棵橡树前的画面。橡树象征着强盛、长寿、坚毅品性及刚强体格。该表款搭载雅克德罗 2653.Si 机芯，拥有长达 68 小时的动力存储功能。表壳和表耳上镶嵌着钻石。浮雕猪腕表的摆陀上饰有野猪浮雕图案，深邃的黑色缟玛瑙为表盘背景。要想在猪年伊始就有一个吉祥幸运的好开头，就要够胆够勇敢，才能 “ 鸿 ” 运当头。德国高级旅行箱品牌日默瓦（Rimowa）也推出了一系列令人耳目一新的旅行配饰，如红色和白色的聚碳酸酯 Essential 系列；钛金色铝镁合金 Original 系列，及一系列全新品牌配饰，包括特别版农历春节红色行李带和皮质行李护身符。行李带采用铝镁合金和皮质扣封，带有热成型的品牌字母组合，共有两个尺寸：S 码和 L 码。真皮行李护身符则是一只古灵精怪的红色金色的坐着的小猪。法国顶级水晶品牌莱俪（Lalique）也在这个新春佳节之际推出了各种喜气洋洋的家居饰品。整个系列的主角当然是猪先生 /小姐啦。品牌推出了三款小猪雕塑，集合了品牌的 90 | FEBRUARY- MARCH 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Along with the sign of the pig, the colour red, which symbolises good fortune and joy, is used throughout Chinese New Year collections. For women who want to celebrate in a subtle way, a red accessory is perfect. Piaget’s Possession collection celebrates this festive moment in a dazzling explosion of gold, diamonds and ornamental stones. The line features an open bangle and ring; a brightly coloured stone dial watch with pink gold; and an ornamental stone pendant. Jaquet Droz pays homage to the adorable animal with a pair of Petite Heure Minute Pig models, in red gold, and a Petite Heure Minute Relief Pig, issued in a limited series of 28 pieces and 8 pieces, respectively. The Petite Heure Minute Pig watches combine the technical excellence of the Jaquet Droz 2653.P self-winding mechanical movement with the beauty of artistic crafts. The ladies’ version features a 35mm case set with diamonds, whilst the unisex version has a 39mm case and no

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专业设计和童趣十足的主题，绝对让人惊喜雀跃。憨态可掬的小猪有四个版本：透明款、透明款饰金色珐琅、金色款和粉色水晶款，其中粉色水晶款只限量推出了 130 件。品牌还推出了一款 Hirondelles Vase 花瓶，用燕子装饰，燕子是品牌最大的灵感之一，同时在中国文化中也寓意着吉祥美好。 쐽

iamond setting, but both depict a young pig in a field of wheat. Fashioned in the brand’s signature naturalist technique, Jaquet Droz evokes the abundance and prosperity of a ripe wheat crop, and the calm and good sense of the pig who stands before it, visibly disinterested. The Petite Heure Minute Relief Pig features a wild hog, depicted in front of eight oak trees, which symbolise power, longevity, and moral and physical strength. Powered by Jaquet Droz 2653.Si movement, this watch has 68 hours of power reserve. The case and lugs are set with diamonds, and in both models, the boar is depicted in a relief engraving on the oscillating mass, with an onyx appliqué providing the backdrop. To get the Year of the Pig off to an auspicious and fortunate start, it is good to be bold, daring and have red luck on your side. Rimowa doesn't disappoint with a fresh collection of festive travel accessories, such as the polycarbonate RIMOWA Essential Collection in white and red; the aluminium RIMOWA Original in titanium; and a series of new RIMOWA accessories, including a specialedition Chinese New Year red luggage belt and leather luggage charm. The belt features an aluminium and leather buckle closure, hot stamped with the brand’s monogram, and is available in two sizes — S and L. The leather luggage charm features a whimsical red-and-gold, seated pig. Lalique also presents a selection of brilliant household decoration with which to celebrate this exceptional season. And the pig is undoubt-

edly the hero of the whole collection. The brand introduced three pig sculptures which combine Lalique’s expertise in design with a playful motif that is guaranteed to thrill. The lovely figures are available in four versions: Clear, Clear with gold enamel, Gold Luster, and Pink Cristal, which is issued in a limited series of 130 pieces. Joining them is the French brand’s Hirondelles Vase, adorned with a swallow motif — one of René Lalique’s biggest inspirations, as well as a symbol of good fortune in Chinese culture. 쐽

澳门精华 | 2019年 2月- 3月 | 91

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织物贵族 Noble fibre 作为珍贵织物顶尖制造商的其中一员，Lanifício Luigi Colombo 带来了世上某些最美丽及最昂贵的布料 Member of the exclusive and very small club of premium-fibre textile manufacturers, Lanifício Luigi Colombo weaves some of the most beautiful and expensive fabrics you can wear 文/by CÉSAR BRIGANTE

如

果一件服装的制作（或者说设计）是决定其品质的关键，那么对更资深的买家而言，服装制作的用料和来源则同样重要——甚至从构造到审美，或从保暖性能到性价比等实际问题上，更将决定一件衣物的耐用性和结构。订造或定制衣服较直接购买成衣更优越的原因之一，就是客人可以参与到选择制作衣物的原料之中。不管时尚潮流如何变迁，客人都可以从一个极为丰富的布料系列中选择，而织物的纤维、色彩、手感、基重、来源、制造商与价格，都一一清晰展示。对于新手而言，这个复杂过程可能令人生畏，但对鉴赏家而言，为衣物选料则是一个令人愉悦的体验，能够根据个人品味放飞

Roberto Colombo 92 | FEBRUARY- MARCH 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

f it is true that the make, or design if you will, of an attire is fundamental, it is no less true that, for a more experienced consumer, the origin and raw material used in its production is no less important and can even determine factors such as durability and the structure of a piece, from its construction to the aesthetics, and more practical matters like thermal efficiency or the more obvious price-quality ratio. One of the advantages of tailoring or bespoke production has over prêt-à-porter is the client’s involvement in choosing the material used to make the piece. Regardless of fleeting trends dictated by fashion, customers can chose from a vast array of palettes where fibres, colours, textures, grammage, origin, manufacturers and, of course, prices, are displayed in the form of fabric.

Essential FABRIC

想象，而无需受各种限制束缚。当然，价格也是一个重要考虑因素，因为伴随这些乐趣而来的可能还有高昂价格。但如果你做出正确选择的话，那么你经历的“混乱”与选择困难，将变成为你带来慰籍的优良长期投资。与生命中所有事情一样，这个过程也有不同层次，而正如人们所言：“最贵不一定最好，但所有的好东西，都是一分钱一分货。” 珍贵织物便象征着这门工艺的顶峰。比如说动物毛，就来自于蒙古、南美安第斯山脉等荒芜之地的山羊、绵羊和其他羚类和骆驼属动物的毛发。这些动物的绒毛能够制成世上某些最保暖、最美丽及最珍贵的织物。因珍贵罕见、客户需求不多以及后续成本高昂等原因，只有少数品牌愿意致力于将这些原材料转变为布料，而能够将其变为纯粹奢侈物料的品牌，就更加少之又少。在这个业内最高端的小众领域， “意大利制造 ”拥有皇者口碑，“诺悠翩雅 ”则是其中最著名的品牌之一，至于 Laníficio Luigi Colombo 则是世界上尊贵面料的领先制造商。在为定制衣物选购布料或在选择高端品牌成衣时，如果那些羊绒或骆马、原驼、骆驼或美利奴羊毛等其他珍贵纤维，展现出卓越质量的璀璨光彩，那么即使布料制造商的名称通常不会印在标志上，但这些织物也很可能就来自 Laníficio Luigi Colombo。

这家家族工厂沿用了创始人兰尼费希欧 ·路易·哥伦布的名字，他于 1927 年生于意大利伦巴第特拉达泰的一个纺织业家庭。路易十岁左右便父母双亡，由他的叔叔抚养长大，而来自邻近皮埃蒙特大区比耶拉的叔叔则是当地一位备受尊敬的布料商人。敏感而天赋高明的路易恪守严格的工作道德，二十岁时便已负责管理叔叔的工厂。婚后，路易决定在珍贵布料领域自立门户，对于同时作为画家及知名水手的他而言，这份职业最适合让他发挥创造力与冒险精神。于上世纪七十年代，他的儿子罗伯特和贾恩卡洛加入父亲的事业，为公司注入决定其未来存亡的青春生命力与大胆精神。从安第斯、澳大利亚到中国，他们与全球羊毛供应商建立了直接合作，并直接与蒙古牧人联系。这种做法与态度让他们与牧人及农民建立了紧密的联系，并能从原产地更好地控制产品质量。与此同时，公司不断大力投入到研发与创新之中，此举更为他们赢得了难以逾越的市场地位。到了八十年代，该公司的客户主要由世界上最大的时装屋组成。随着奢侈工业的崛起以及对顶级布料的需求， Laníficio Luigi Colombo 公司引领着珍贵布料领域的走向，并成为了羊绒、骆马、原驼、骆驼以及貂类、栗鼠和紫貂等毛发纤维的

What may be a somewhat daunting exercise for newcomers is a pleasure for connoisseurs, who can let their imagination fly in a game with few barriers aside from personal taste and, naturally, price, which can render all this fun very expensive. But if you get it right, you are left with the consolation of madness turning into a pleasurable long-term investment. As everything in life, there are levels to it and, as someone once said, “expensive isn’t always good, but all good things are inevitably expensive”. The noble-fibres club is the pinnacle of this craft. From animal origin, it uses wool from goats, sheep and other bovidae and camelids from inhospitable regions on the planet such as Mongolia or the Andean Mountains, in South America. Their fleece produces some of the most shielding, beautiful and precious fabrics the world has ever seen. Thanks to its rarity and demanding maintenance, and the consequent cost, few houses commit to transforming this raw material and even fewer can successfully work at the highest level, turning it into the luxury resource that it is by every definition. In this highly prestigious niche of the industry, where ‘Made in Italy’ reigns, and whose most renowned name is Loro Piana’s, the world leader 澳门精华 | 2019年 2月- 3月 | 95

Essential FABRIC

专家，该公司在纺织业界大名鼎鼎，但其产品因为成本高昂却难得一见。目前已传承至第三代的 Laníficio Luigi Colombo 分别在博尔戈塞西亚和盖姆梅拥有两间工厂，占地约 30,000 平方米并雇用了 400 名专业员工，每年将 500,000 公斤原材料转变为美妙绝伦的布料。这支极为专业的团队将丰富经验和手工制作与最新编织科技结合，而对于这家希望以可持续方式发展的家族企业而言，这支团队更是其主要优势之一。除了为全球顶尖时装屋供应面料，Lanifício Colombo 也在八十年代中期推出了包括毛衣、家居配饰和布料的自有成衣系列，在精品店、高端百货店和公司的自营商店均可见到其身影。他们在意大利的店铺位于著名的米兰斯皮加街和罗马波尔哥尼奥纳街，此外在贝尔加莫和切尔沃港也设有店铺。至于在意大利境外，该公司则在韩国的首尔、大邱和釜山开设了精品店。 쐽

in noble-fibres manufacturing is Laníficio Luigi Colombo. When buying cashmere or any other premium fibre, such as vicuña, guanaco, camel, or merino wool, in tailoring fabrics or which have already been turned into clothing by a high-end brand, if it is a fabric of undeniable quality there is a strong probability that it came from Laníficio Luigi Colombo, even if the maker’s name is not usually on the label. The family factory bears the name of its founder, who was born in 1927 in Tradate, Lombardy, into a family involved in the industry. Luigi became orphan at just 10 years old and was raised by an uncle, a prestigious textile businessman from Biella, in the neighbouring region of Piedmont. Regarded as a sensitive and highly intelligent man, with a rigid work ethic, he was already in charge of his uncle’s factory at 20. After marrying, Luigi decided to venture on his own into the sector of noble fibres, an

occupation fit for the creative and adventurous spirit of this man who was also a painter and well-known sailor. In the 1970s, his sons Roberto and Giancarlo joined their father, injecting a dose of youth and boldness that would be vital for the company’s future. They established direct relationships with wool suppliers all over the world, from the Andes to Australia and China, where they dealt directly with Mongolian shepherds. This attitude gave them privileged contact with herders and farmers, and to have a better control over the product at its origin. At the same time, a strong and continuous investment in research and innovation awarded them an enviable position on the market. In the 1980s, their portfolio featured the biggest international fashion maisons. With the rise of the luxury industry and the increase in demand for top-quality fabrics, they lead the noble-fibres sector and became specialists in cashmere, guanaco, vicuña, camel and fleece from species such as marten, chinchilla and sable, which were well-known but no rarely seen in textiles, particularly due to cost. Now in its third generation, the factory has two factories, in Borgosesia and Ghemme, comprising around 30,000sqm and a 400-strong staff that reworks over 500,000kg of raw materials per year. The highly specialised team, where experience and manual work is combined with the latest weaving technology, is one of the main strengths of this family business, which wants to keep growing in a sustainable way. In addition to supplying the world’s leading fashion houses, Lanifício Colombo launched their own prêt-à-porter in the mid-1980s, with knitwear and household accessories and textiles, which can be found in outlets, high-end department stores and the company’s own stores. Their shops in Italy can be found in Milan, at the famous Via della Spiga; Via Borgognona, in Rome; Bergamo and Porto Cervo; and, outside Italy, in South Korea’s Seoul, Daegu and Busan. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2019年 2月- 3月 | 97

Essential CHEF

年轻有为 Young and Promising 意大利主厨将其家厨和家乡地道风味带到了澳门「意汇」 Italian chef Rodolfo Serritelli brings his family recipes and the most authentic cuisine from his hometown to Macau at Rossi Trattoria 文/by EDWINA LIU

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最近开业的 Rossi Trattoria「意汇」餐厅首次亮相时，新厨师仍然有点害羞和紧张。但一个月后接受采访，他已变得更加自信和平静 Serritelli 来自意国烹饪世家的第二代，自小家人对食物的热爱便影响和熏陶着他。“我 10 岁开始在家烹调，”他回忆说。“我为家人煮了家庭风味意大利面食。他们都是美食家，如果我做得不好，看他们的脸色便知道。” 大多数人把烹饪当作一种爱好习惯来享受，但选择它作为终身职业并不容易。对于 Serritelli 来说，这选择最自然不过。“我对烹饪非常着迷。我曾经在餐馆里帮过父亲。我一直想知道厨房里的烹饪团队如何为餐厅里这么多的食客服务。”年轻的 Serritelli 选择在烹饪学校学习专业技能，在那里他“也有机会遇到许多不同的厨师及在不同的餐厅工作”。毕业后，学校推荐他到美国的一家凯悦酒店。 98 | FEBRUARY- MARCH 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

尽管与世界上无数的厨师合作过， Serritelli 认为他的父亲仍然是他生命中最重要的导师。“我父亲是一名老派厨师，他的食物很棒。我从他身上学到了味道的重要性，他告诉我什么是好的，什么是不好的。” Serritelli 还曾经在家乡即意大利亚得里亚海岸的一个港口城市 Senigallia 的一家餐馆实习，当时他 16 岁。“那里的厨师非常酷。他们告诉我，一个好的实习生应该不烦扰他们。但他们真的给了我灵感，因为他们根据我所在城市的食材和传统风味烹饪，”他说。在环游世界之后，Serritelli 回到家乡，在 Senigallia 市的烹饪学校担任导师。 “当他们邀请我时，我认为这是个树立自己声誉的好机会。有时人们可能认为我太年轻，不能胜任某项工作，但如果他们知道我是烹饪导师，他们就会认可我的资格，” 他解释道。

hen the new chef made his first appearance at the recently opened restaurant Rossi Trattoria, he was still a bit shy and nervous. But when he was interviewed a month later, he had become more confident and calm. Serritelli is a second-generation Italian chef and he was inspired by his family’s love for food from a young age. “I started cooking at home when I was 10 years old,” he recalled. “I cooked homemade pasta for my family. They are all gourmets, if I don’t cook well it will show on their faces.” Most people enjoy cooking as a habit but it’s not easy to choose it as a life-long career. For Serritelli, it was a natural choice. “I am so fascinated with cooking. I used to help my father in the restaurant. I always wondered how the

Essential CHEF

澳门新篇章

某个平常日子当 Serritelli 回到家时，父亲向他展示澳门的招聘消息。“他问我是否想去澳门工作——当时我甚至都不知道澳门在哪儿。但我说“好的”，让他发送我的简历。” 他很快收到了回复。“有一天，我收到了新濠博亚娱乐餐饮副总裁 Samuel M. Wilkes 先生的信息，他说他想尝尝我的菜式。当然我不知道他是谁，但我说 '没问题 '。然后他就开摩托车到我们学校。吃完我烹煮的食物后，他说，'你想去澳门吗？我们下周去吧 ’...... 然后我们就真的说到做到了，”他笑着说。在「意汇」，Serritelli 供应乡村风味的家庭式意大利美食，不卖噱头、绝无多余的点缀和雕琢。相反，这位年轻的厨师专注于使用意大利最好的新鲜食材来烹制菜式，每道菜都以简朴、地道的方式烹备，运用不多于三种主要食材，跟足家里祖传秘方烹成。 Serritelli 认为，美味的食物不应该用太多的调味品和复杂的成分来烹饪;而应该保持其原真味道。他的家人教会他要注意每一顿的每一个细节，教晓他一切都应该是完美的。例如，他的原创罗马式披萨采用慢发酵面团，造就了它轻盈松脆、口感完美的特点，而其备受喜爱的家庭菜式包括他祖母的美味肉丸，搭配以薄身扁意粉，是款窝心夜宵轻食，此外还有来自他姑姑的经典提拉米苏。同样不容错过的是厨师自制的新鲜意大利面，口感独特、有嚼劲。“Maccheroni al Ferretto，Astice， Salsa di Pomodoro Piccante，手卷螺丝粉配龙虾、辣番茄酱，是我最爱的出品之一。我们制作螺丝粉的棍子由我的曾祖母传下来，她曾经用它们来制作衬衫。一些意大利人也使用雨伞上的铁枝来做螺丝粉，”Serritelli 说 , “我们先制作意大利面，然后用番茄和龙虾做出非常简单的酱汁。不过这道菜很妙，我真的很喜欢它。” Serritelli 相信「意汇」将会成为澳门唯一一家让宾客尝到正宗传统意式家庭风味美食的餐厅。“我不想优胜于其他人，我只想要独一无二。”他表示。 쐽

culinary team in the kitchen could serve so many diners in the restaurant.” Young Serritelli chose to learn professional skills in culinary school, where he “also got chance to meet many different chefs and work in different restaurants”. After graduating, the school recommended him to the Hyatt Hotel in the United States. Despite having worked with countless chefs in the world, Serritelli believes his father is still the most important mentor in his life. “My dad is an old-school chef, his food is so good. I learned the importance of taste from him, he tells me what is or isn’t good.” Serritelli also had his internship in a restaurant in his hometown Senigallia, a port town on Italy’s Adriatic coast, when he was 16 years old. “The chefs there are very cool. They told me what a good intern should do is not to bother them. But they really inspired me because they cook based on the ingredients and the traditional flavours from my city,” he said. After traveling around the world, Serritelli returned to his hometown and worked as a tutor in the city’s cooking school. “When they invited me, I thought it was a great opportunity to establish myself. Sometimes people might think I am too young for a certain job but if they know I am a cooking tutor, they will recognise my qualification,” he explained.

NEW CHAPTER IN MACAU It was a normal day for Serritelli when he returned home and his father showed him recruitment news from Macau. “He asked me if I wanted to go to Macau — at that time I didn’t even know where Macau was. But I said yes and let him send my CV.” He received the reply very quickly. “One day I received a message from Mr Samuel M. Wilkes, Melco Resorts & Entertainment Vice President of F&B, who said he wanted to try my

dishes. And of course I didn’t know who he was, but I said ‘sure’. He then drove his motorcycle to our school. After trying my food he said, ‘Do you want to go to Macau? Let’s go next week’… and we did it,” he laughs. At Rossi, Serritelli serves up family-style rustic Italian food, free of gimmicks or garnishes. Instead, the young chef focuses on the best fresh ingredients from Italy prepared simply and authentically with no more than three main ingredients on each plate, as well as secret recipes passed down from his family. Serritelli believes good food should not be cooked with too many seasonings and complicated ingredients; it should maintain its true flavour. His family taught him to pay attention to every detail of a meal, that everything should be perfect. His original Roman-style pizza, for example, uses slow-fermentation dough that is cooked to a light and crispy consistency for the perfect bite, while much-loved family recipes include his grandmother’s delicious meatballs, a hearty tagliolini-based midnight snack and a classic tiramisu from his aunt. Also not to be missed is the chef ’s fresh homemade pasta with its distinctive soft and chewy texture. “Maccheroni al Ferretto, Astice, Salsa di Pomodoro Piccante, the hand-rolled spiral pasta with lobster, is one of my favourites. The sticks we make the Maccheroni with are from my great-grandma, who used to make shirts with them. Some Italians also use umbrella stretchers to do it,” said Serritelli. “We make the pasta and use tomato and lobster to create a very simple sauce. However the dish is really good and I really like it.” Serritelli believes Rossi Trattoria will be the one and only Italian restaurant in Macau where one can taste the true flavours of tradition Italian home dishes. “I don’t want to be better than anyone, I just want to be unique.” 쐽 澳门精华 | 2019年 2月- 3月 | 101

Essential WINE

源远流长 Deep roots 克拉斯托酒庄(Quinta do Crasto)堪称杜罗河产区乃至葡萄牙的名片。如今，酒庄庆祝四百周年诞辰，推出两款尽显悠久历史底蕴的葡萄酒 Quinta do Crasto, one of the most prestigious references of the Douro and of Portugal, celebrates four centuries of existence with two wines that represent the essence of its long history 文/by CÉSAR BRIGANTE

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论是对一般爱酒人士或特别钟情波特酒的人而言，克拉斯托酒庄都毋需赘述。作为杜罗河区最古老和最显赫的酒庄之一，它的历史已经遗失于时间的长河，但有纪录显示其冒起于 17 世纪。沿杜罗河逆流而看，酒庄坐落在河的左岸，位于比索达雷加 (Peso da Régua)和皮尼昂 (Pinhão) 102 | FEBRUARY- MARCH 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

之间，自 1756 年建立以来便处于这个全世界最古老的受监管葡萄酒产区之内。著名的波特酒诞生于此。在现有庄主接管之前，酒庄一开始是属于雷阿尔城 (Vila Real)和附近安西昂什 (Ansiães)的贵族。后来由帕谢科 ·佩雷拉 (Pacheco Pereira)家族持有，又因联姻

or lovers of wine in general and of Port wine in particular, Quinta do Crasto is one of those names that need no introduction. One of the oldest and most prominent estates in the Douro, its history gets lost in time, although records indicate its emergence in the 17th century. Situated on the left bank going up the

Essential WINE

而转予索托马约尔家族 (Sottomayors)，后者在 19 世纪之际出售予著名的波特酒商人康斯坦丁诺 ·德阿尔梅达 (Constantino de Almeida)。康斯坦丁诺在晚年潜心修复克拉斯托酒庄，重新种植被葡萄根瘤蚜摧毁的葡萄树，以及建造和修复酒厂和余下的基础设施。在 1922 年康斯坦丁诺去世后，酒庄由他的遗孀和子女继承。一年后，克拉斯托农业协会 (Sociedade Agrícola da Quinta do Crasto)成立，由其儿子费尔南多 (Fernando de Almeida) 担任会长。酒庄在康斯坦丁诺波特酒协会 (Sociedade dos Vinhos do Porto Constantino)管 ཽ 理之下运营近四十年，成为最大的波特酒出口商之一。对葡萄牙人而言，著名的康斯坦丁诺白兰地也许更能让人记起酒庄——老一辈人必定记得该白兰地的标语：a fama vem de longe（悠久的声誉）。 1980 年代，这高贵的酒庄迎来了现代的篇章：费尔南多之女莱昂诺尔 (Leonor de Guedes Almeida)和女婿豪尔赫 ·洛盖特 (Jorge Roquette)从多名家族成员手上买下股份，推出新的现代化项目，务求以克拉斯托酒庄的名义生产高品质的波特酒和杜罗河葡萄酒。自 90 年代起，酒庄的产品取得进展，大受酒评师和消费者欢迎。有了正面的市场反馈，酒庄继续投资现有的葡萄园并投入新种植，同时收购更多物业，以及对酒厂和酒窖作现代化改造。自那以后，酒庄的葡萄园面积达到 220 公顷，成为区内产量最高的十大酒庄之一。其杜罗河酒和波特酒系列不断在世界各地赢得奖项和荣誉。

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Douro River, between the localities of Peso da Régua and Pinhão, the estate is part of the oldest demarcated and regulated wine region in the world since its creation in 1756, where the prestigious Port wine comes from. Before arriving to the current owners, it was first owned by noble families from the city of Vila Real and nearby Ansiães. It later belonged to the Pacheco Pereira family, united in marriage to the Sottomayors who, at the turn of the 19th century, sold it to the prestigious Port wine merchant Constantino de Almeida. He dedicated his later years to recovering the Quinta, investing in replanting the vines devastated by phylloxera and in constructing and recovering the wineries and remaining infrastructure. After the businessman’s passing in 1922, the Quinta was passed down to the widow and their children, who continued the business. The Sociedade Agrícola da Quinta do Crasto was established the following year, led by the son Fernando de Almeida. The estate remained in the orbit of the Sociedade dos Vinhos do Porto Constantino for almost four decades, during which time it established itself as one of the biggest Port wine exporters. For the Portuguese, it is perhaps easier to identify it through the famous Constantino brandy, whose famous slogan was ‘a fama vem de longe’ (fame comes from way back), which the older generation will no doubt remember. The 1980s saw the noble estate’s most recent chapter: the daughter of Fernando de Almeida, Leonor de Guedes Almeida, and her husband

Essential WINE

作为杜罗河畔最古老的酒庄之一，在成立四百周年之际，同时为了 “致敬在这数百年来投资葡萄园并打造出一直以来均属世界顶级的正宗且独特葡萄酒的人们”，克拉斯托酒庄特此推出两款独一无二的葡萄酒，分别是 Honore 杜罗河酒和 Honore 波特酒。 “Honore”这个名字的灵感来自康斯坦丁诺 ·德阿尔梅达赋予酒庄的格言： Honor et Labore（荣誉与劳动）。 “Honore 杜罗河酒 ”是酒庄两款招牌葡萄酒的出色结合：71.2%的 Vinha Maria Teresa 2015 和 28.8% 的 Vinha da Ponte 2015，在全新的橡木桶里酿制 20 个月。成品限量装瓶 1,615 支（每瓶均印有编号），以致敬克拉斯托酒庄四百年的历史(1615-2015)。而 “Honore 波特酒 ”可谓这庆典的高潮部分。这是一款超过 100 年的陈年茶色波特酒，酿制于康斯坦丁诺 ·德阿尔梅达私存的极限量木桶中，已历经酒庄三代人的时间。这款奢华的波特酒已超越酒的一般意义，一切细节均达到里程碑式的高度。该酒以实心橡木盒作为外包装，水晶酒瓶由 Atlantis 生产，加上 Topázio 以法定纯银作手工修饰，限量发售 400 瓶，恭候高级波特酒收藏家购藏品鉴。 쐽

Jorge Roquette, acquired the shares of various family members and launched a new modernisation project, with the aim of producing highquality Port and Douro wines under the name Quinta do Crasto. From the ‘90s, the wines produced there gained ground and were very well received by both critics and consumers. The positive market response led to new investments both in the existing vineyards and the plantation of new ones, along with the acquisition of properties and the modernisation of the winemaking and storage centre. Since then, with the wine produced from the 220 hectares of vineyard (placing it among the top 10 producers in the region), Quinta do Crasto has a built up a portfolio of Douro and Port wines that has incessantly garnered prizes and distinctions from the four corners of the globe. To mark the 400th anniversary of the property, making it one of the oldest in the Douro, whilst also “paying tribute to the men and women who, throughout the centuries, have invested in the vines and created authentic, unique wines that have long been recognised among the best in the world”, Quinta do Crasto decided to launch two exceptional wines bearing the title

Honore, taken from the house’s motto created by Constantino de Almeida, Honor et Labore. This unique and exclusive launch comprises Honore Douro and Porto Honore. The first is an exceptional blend made from two of the estate’s most iconic wines: Vinha Maria Teresa and Vinha da Ponte. With 71.2% of Vinha Maria Teresa 2015 and 28.8% of Vinha da Ponte 2015, Quinta do Crasto Honore aged in brand new oak barrels for 20 months. Just 1,615 numbered magnums were bottled, in an homage to the four centuries of history of Quinta do Crasto (1615-2015). The second, which can be considered the highlight of this celebration, is the Porto Honore, a very old tawny over 100 years old, made from a very limited number of casks belonging to Constantino de Almeida’s stock, on the estate for three generations. More than a wine, this is a luxurious edition in which all the details are on par with the importance of the milestone. Honore Porto is presented in a solid oak box, in a crystal decanter produced by Atlantis, decorated by hand in sterling silver by Topázio, in a total of 400 beautiful units that are expected to be acquired by collectors of exceptional Ports such as this one. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2019年 2月- 3月 | 105

Essential NEWS

美高梅支持环境可持续发展澳门美高梅酒店运营设施管理执行董事陈锡邦先生应邀在 “企业节能减排讲座：应用管理系统方法 ”中担任主讲嘉宾，与本地各业界分享美高梅的节能成果。 2016 年，澳门美高梅物业荣获 ISO 50001 能源管理系统认证，成为本澳首家综合度假酒店营运商取得此项认证。 2018 年 4 月，美狮美高梅荣获中国绿色建筑与节能（澳门）协会颁发最高殊荣的三星级中国绿色建筑设计标识证书，成为获得该项殊荣的澳门最大型及首座巨型综合建筑，彰显美高梅把可持续发展理念融入基建设计的决心。

MGM supports Sustainable Development Mr Peter Chan, Vice President of Facilities Management of MGM, was invited as the speaker for a seminar, titled “Energy Saving and Emission Reduction: A Management System Approach”, to share MGM’s success stories and project milestones with the industry. In 2016, MGM Macau was the region’s first integrated resort operator to receive ISO 50001 Energy Management System certification for MGM MACAU property. In April 2018, MGM COTAI became the largest property and the first mega-size complex project in Macau to achieve the China Green Building Design Label Three-Star Certification, which is the highest and most prestigious ranking in the Label. The accolade recognised MGM’s commitment to designing an infrastructure with environmental sustainability at its heart.

Galaxy Macau wins at the 25th Annual World Travel Awards

「澳門銀河」获第25届世界旅游大奖表彰近日，在葡萄牙里斯本举办的第 25 届世界旅游大奖上，「澳門銀河」被授予“亚洲领先娱乐场渡假城 2018”奖项。世界旅游大奖是国际公认的旅游业界最高、最全面殊荣。大奖评审团由旅游业专家和业界精英组成，大部分评委来自世界旅游及旅行理事会，获奖者实至名归，意义非凡。银河娱乐集团首席市场推广总监祁礼敦先生表示：“我们感到非常自豪获得此全球殊荣，这是对「澳門銀河」高品质服务和产品的认可。此殊荣意义非凡，会进一步提升「澳門銀河」在全球舞台上的品牌地位。衷心感谢每位支持并为我们投下神圣一票的客人及旅游同业，感谢各位认可我们作为世界著名博彩度假村。”

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Galaxy Macau was named World’s Leading Casino Resort 2018 at the 25th annual World Travel Awards, held in Lisbon, Portugal. The World Travel Awards is renowned as the most prominent and comprehensive awarding programme in the global hospitality industry. Judging is conducted by an international jury of hospitality experts and industry figures, mainly from the World Travel & Tourism Council. The competition is divided into a regional and global stage, with regional winners competing in the Grand Final at the end of the year. Mr Kevin Clayton, Chief Marketing Officer of the Galaxy Entertainment Group, said: “Our team is elated to win this prestigious global award, which is a shining recognition of Galaxy Macau’s benchmark standards of service and product quality. This significant award will further elevate our integrated resort brand on the global stage. We are extremely grateful to the vast number of people who contribute every day to our success and also those who voted for Galaxy Macau as the World’s Leading Casino Resort.”

Essential NEWS

新葡京再次荣获七星米芝莲殊荣在最新公布的《米芝莲指南香港澳门 2019》中，澳博旗下澳门新葡京酒店再次摘下米芝莲七星殊荣。“天巢法国餐厅”和“8 餐厅”已是连续第十一年获颁米芝莲星级荣誉。今年，两家餐厅双双保留其米芝莲三星， “大厨 ”亦是连续第六年获得米芝莲一星。 “新葡京酒店的三家餐厅今年继续获得国际认同和嘉许，为澳门构建'世界旅游休闲中心’作出贡献，我们深感荣幸，澳博股份有限公司董事局主席苏树辉博士（Dr. Ambrose So）表示， “我们的三家餐厅获得国际嘉许反映了澳博一直以来致力于为宾客提供最佳的餐饮体验。”

Grand Lisboa Hotel awarded seven Michelin Stars once again SJM’s Grand Lisboa Hotel was once again awarded with seven stars in total in the 2019 Michelin Guide Hong Kong & Macau. Robuchon au Dôme and The Eight were recognised by the Guide for 11 consecutive year. This year, both restaurants maintained their three stars, while The Kitchen has received one star for six consecutive years. “We are highly honoured that our restaurants at the Grand Lisboa continue to receive these prestigious awards, enhancing Macau’s strategic role as a world centre of tourism and leisure,” commented Mr Ambrose So, Chairman of the Board of Directors of Sociedade de Jogos de Macau, S.A. “The international recognition that our restaurants have earned reflects SJM’s dedication to providing the finest dining experiences for Macau’s visitors.”

Melco volunteers bring festive cheer to local elderly women

新濠义工与本地女性长者欢度佳节 20 名来自新濠各部门的义工探访了澳门妇女联合总会旗下的乐颐长者日间中心，为 80 名长者送上节日祝福。当日，新濠义工队不但准备了唱歌表演助庆，还与长者们一起装饰圣诞树及玩游戏，并一同共进圣诞午餐，欢度佳节。新濠博亚娱乐执行副总裁兼人力资源暨企业社会责任总监高桥明子女士表示： “在圣诞节这个特别时刻，新濠很高兴能继续与伙伴机构如澳门妇女联合总会合作，为本澳社区中的长者、儿童及有需要人士带来欢乐及帮助。我在此特别感谢新濠义工无私地奉献私人时间为社区人士送上祝福与关怀，为受助者生活添上色彩。”

Twenty members of the Melco volunteer team from the company’s various departments brought season’s greetings to 80 residents of the Lok In Elderly Service Centre of Women’s General Association of Macau, spending a day together to celebrate Christmas festivities. Activities included song performances, Christmas tree decoration and games, as well as enjoying a festive lunch together with the centre’s residents. Ms Akiko Takahashi, Executive Vice President, Chief Officer of Human Resources and Corporate Social Responsibility of Melco Resorts & Entertainment, said: “During this festive season, we are pleased to continue working with our trusted partners such as Women’s General Association of Macau to bring joy and assistance to the community, including to the elderly, children and those with special needs. We are grateful to our volunteering team who tirelessly dedicate their personal time to enrich the lives of those community beneficiaries.”

澳门精华 | 2019年 2月- 3月 | 107

Essential JEWELLERY

奢华精髓 Essential luxuries “精华”指南，澳门顶级购物商场奢靡品牌一网打尽 The Essential guide to luxury brands at Macau’s leading shopping malls

威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian Estrada da Baía de N. Senhora da Esperanca, S/N, Taipa, Macau

永利澳门名店街 Wynn Esplanade Rua Cidade de Sintra, NAPE, Macau

四季‧名店 Shoppes at Four Seasons The Cotai Strip, Estrada da Baía de N. Senhora da Esperanca, S/N, Taipa, Macau

Abiste Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Alfred Dunhill 艾尔弗雷德·登喜路 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 Agnes b. 阿尼亚斯贝 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Aquascutum 雅格狮丹 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Armani Collezioni 阿玛尼黑标 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Audemars Piguet 爱彼表 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

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永利澳门万利酒店 Esplanade at Encore Rua Cidade de Sintra, NAPE, Macau

四季酒店DFS环球免税店 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons

新濠天地 The City of Dreams

The Cotai Strip, Estrada da Baia de N. Senhora da Esperanca, S/N, Taipa, Macau

Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau

金丽华酒店 Grand Lapa Hotel

澳门银河 Galaxy Macau Cotai, Macau

金沙城中心 Sands Cotai Central Estrada da Baia de N. Senhora da Esperanca, S/N, Taipa, Macau

Bally 巴利 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 Bang & Olufsen 奢华视听品牌 B&O One Central 一号广场 Bottega Veneta 宝缇嘉 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心

956-1110 Avenida da Amizade, Macau

一号广场 One Central Avenida de Sagres and Avenida do Dr. Sun Yat Sen, Lot B of Block B of Zone B Nape, Macau

Breguet 宝玑 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Brooks Brothers 布克兄弟 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Burberry 巴宝莉 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地

Brioni 布莱奥尼 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Bulgari 宝格丽 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Boucheron 宝诗龙 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

Canali 康纳利 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Essential RETAIL

Carl F. Bucherer 宝齐莱 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Cartier 卡地亚 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Esplanade at Encore 永利澳门万利酒店

Damiani 达米阿尼 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 Davidoﬀ 大卫杜夫 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 David Yurman 大卫 ·雅曼 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Céline 赛琳 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场

De Beers 戴比尔斯 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店

Cerruti 1881 切瑞蒂 1881 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Diamond SA 南非钻石 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Chanel 香奈儿 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Diane Von Furstenberg 黛安·冯芙丝汀宝 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Chaumet 尚美 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Chloe 蔻依 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Christian Dior 克里斯汀·迪奥 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Chopard 萧邦 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地 Cigar Emporium 雪茄专门店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心 CK Calvin Klein 卡尔文·克莱恩 One Central 一号广场 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Coach 蔻驰 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地 Cole Haan 歌涵 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

DKNY 唐娜·凯伦纽约 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心 Dolce&Gabbana 杜嘉班纳 One Central 一号广场 Emporio Armani 安普里奥 ·阿玛尼 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地 Ermenegildo Zegna 杰尼亚 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Europe Watch Company 欧洲坊 One Central 一号广场

Franck Muller 法蘭穆勒 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Gieves & Hawkes 君皇仕 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Giorgio Armani 乔治·阿玛尼 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Giuseppe Zanotti 朱塞佩· 萨诺第 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Givenchy 纪梵希 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Glashütte Original 格拉苏蒂 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 GoldVish S.A. Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Gucci 古琦 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心 Hermès 爱马仕 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Hublot 宇舶表 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地

Fabio Caviglia 法比奥 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场

Hugo Boss 胡戈· 波士 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 One Central 一号广场 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Fendi 芬迪 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场

IWC 万国表 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河

Ferrari 法拉利 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Jaeger-LeCoultre 积家 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Francesco Biasia Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

澳门精华 | 2019年 2月- 3月 | 109

Essential JEWELLERY Shanghai Tang 上海滩 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Samsonite Black Label 新秀丽黑标 One Central 一号广场 Shiatzy Chen 夏姿·陈 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 S.T. Dupont 法国都彭 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 St. John 圣约翰 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Smalto by Paris Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Jaquet Droz 雅克 ·德罗 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

Miu Miu 缪缪 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Juicy Couture 橘滋 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Montblanc 万宝龙 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场

Kate Spade 凯特· 丝蓓 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Kenzo 高田贤三 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Lancel 兰姿 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 La Perla Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Leonard 李奥纳德 One Central 一号广场 Links of London Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Loro Piana 罗洛·皮雅纳 One Central 一号广场 Louis Vuitton 路易·威登 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Loewe 罗威 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 Luk Fook 六福珠宝 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心 Marc by Marc Jacobs 马克·雅可布之马克 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Marni 玛尼 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Max Mara 麦丝玛拉 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Maubossin 梦宝星 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Mikimoto 御木本珠宝 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Missoni 米索尼 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

110 | FEBRUARY- MARCH 2019 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Oﬃcine Panerai 沛纳海 One Central 一号广场 Omega 欧米茄 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心 Macau Landmark 澳门置地广场酒店 Macau Square 澳门广场 Pal Zileri 伯爵莱利 One Central 一号广场 Piaget 伯爵 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Esplanade at Encore 永利澳门万利酒店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河

Stefano Ricci 史蒂芬劳·尼治 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Swarovski 施华洛世奇水晶 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Tag Heuer 豪雅 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Thomas Sabo 汤武士世宝 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Tiﬀany & Co. 蒂芙尼 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Tod’s 托德斯 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 Tonino Lamborghini 兰博基尼 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

Prada 普拉达 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Tourneau 唐龙 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

Rado 雷达 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 The City of Dreams 新濠天地

Tudor 帝舵表 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Ralph Lauren 拉夫·劳伦 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地

Vacheron Constatin 江诗丹顿 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店

Rich Jade 富御珠宝 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Richard Mille 瑞驰·迈迪 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Rimowa 日墨瓦 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Roberto Cavalli Class and Cesare Paciotti Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Roger Dubuis 罗杰杜彼 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Rolex 劳力士 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Salvatore Ferragamo 萨尔瓦托勒·菲拉格慕 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地

Van Cleef & Arpels 梵克雅宝 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Versace 范思哲 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Versace Collection 范思哲高级成衣 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 Vertu 沃尔图 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Vivienne Westwood 薇薇恩·韦斯特伍德 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Yves Saint Laurent 伊夫圣罗兰 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Valentino 华伦天奴 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

The Macau Breastfeeding Association is truly honoured to receive the Non-Profit Organization Gold Award. It recognizes not just our efforts in promoting breastfeeding in Macau, but also this natural right of mothers and babies. We are grateful for this encouragement, and it definitely motivates us to go

Yolanda, LEONG Sok Man ᙭᪇㢿 President of Board of Directors, Macau Breastfeeding Association ᰎ㟑ᣴ̒‫ږ‬ᕐύ̠㟊 NON-PROFIT ORGANISATION GOLD AWARD 㤖Ḯ‫❎♴׊‬㕹Ợ 2018Business Awards of Macau 2018ᰎ㟑ࠇ‫ؿ‬૭Ỡ

forward. * ᰐ㟓᣶̔‫ژ‬ᕒ‫ֱډ‬᝟໠⣵ ỾྴǙ㤖Ḯ‫៬׊‬᝷㕹Ợǚǐ㐝йỢൢ⍷ ⅲ˙ӆᒶയᕴᕒॼᰐ㟓ዃ༶᣶̔ߎ⢼๼ ηⅲほ‫ܔ‬䢲̑⻢ᒝ̞⍻ᕒほ‫ܔ‬᣶̔ߎ⢼ ᒶ᣶⿟‫ݸ‬ಳಠ⧀⁥ЦϜⅲᡪ‫׊‬ǐლヱᰐ 㟓ࠉ‫ف‬૯Ợⅲ㸉ٓ䢲ᆔоᕒ❲❾‫؝ئ‬ǐ

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