ESSENTIAL MACAU. OCTOBER / NOVEMBER 2018 by ESSENTIAL MACAU

2018年 10-11月第 46期 No. 46 October - November 2018

阿尔派量身定制的精致美食体验 Tailored dining experience 探秘澳门最佳私厨 The best private kitchens in Macau

Alpine 王者回归 The return of an icon

神奇的马拉喀什 Magic Marrakesh

ISSN:2221-1438

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传奇酒店La Mamounia

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EDWINA LIU EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

激情秋日

BUSTLING AUTUMN

这个秋天，东望洋赛道上再次迎来世界各地的赛车高手，赛车粉丝们绝对不能错过这个由1954年起连续举办了65年的赛车盛事。今年更增添大湾区杯，让我们期待更多选手在曲折复杂的赛道上，大展身手吧。为了让市民和旅客能够跟近距离接触赛车，一系列庆祝活动等待大家参与，包括在塔石广场展出的参赛战车和东望洋跑道欢乐跑。在澳门观看赛事的同时怎能不品尝一下澳门闻名世界的美食呢？作为澳门近日最受瞩目的新酒店摩珀斯，在餐饮上也为大家带来不少惊喜。位于酒店 21层的中餐厅天颐是亚洲首间 “厨师发办 ” 的高级中餐厅，餐厅无论是装修、摆设、餐具到餐单都体现了浓郁的传统中国文化元素。本期《澳门精华》对话餐厅总厨黄赞奇，一探中式餐饮最高境界。谈到“厨师发办”，作为老饕的你想必更想尝试一些平常餐厅品尝不到的美食吧，那么私房菜将会是你不二的选择。阅读本期内容，我们亦为您搜罗隐匿在澳门各处的高水准私房菜。大块朵颐后，不妨到位于澳门银河的 Tiffany 挑选澳门独家的精美的家居與配飾系列。本期精彩内容还包括扬名国际舞台的中国知名青年服装设计师何苗专访、著名俄罗斯画家君士坦丁俄罗斯个展、摩洛哥旅游资讯以及一系列最新时尚奢华产品资讯。

This Autumn, motor racers from all around the globe will once again descend upon theworld famous Guia circuit in Macau. Motor sports fans are obsessively dedicated to thisgrand annual racefest - the Macau Grand Prix - which this year celebrates 65 years. A new race is pencilled in for this edition, with plenty of thrills undoubtedly in storefrom accomplished racers vying for the Greater Bay Area Cup on one of the most demanding street tracks anywhere in the world. In order to provide more opportunities for residents and tourists to get involved the celebrations of the Macau Grand Prix include the 65th Macau Grand Prix Opening Ceremony and Auto Show plus Guia Circuit Fun Run. Inbetween watching the action on the track, why not taste Macau’s renowned gourmet treats? As the most compelling new property in town, Morpheus showcases an array of F&B surprises. Located on the 21st floor of the uniquely-designed hotel, Yí is the only Chinese restaurant to offer Omakase style - ‘leave it to the chef ’, in Japanese - in Asia. The interior design, furniture and tableware are tip top with traditional Chinese elements. Essential Macau talks to Chef de Cuisine Angelo Wong to discover a new level of Chinese dining in the territory. When it comes to Omakase style, I believe most gourmands will be much more interested in the unexpectedly customised menus than normal dishes commonly served in restaurants. Follow Essential Macau to discover the best private kitchens in town. After consuming all these delicacies, what could be better than shopping therapy? The new Tiffany Home & Accessories Collection is available exclusively at The Promenade Shops at Galaxy Macau. Further eye-opening contents include an exclusive interview with Chinese fashion designer He Miao, first solo exhibition of Russian artist Konstantin Bessmertny in Russia a frequenter of international Fashion Week, luxury tips for travelling to Morocco, and the latest information on fashion and luxury lifestyles.

祝你的澳门之旅开心愉快！

Enjoy your visit to Macau!

专题特写 FEATURES 14

赛事 Event 太阳城第65届澳门格兰披治大赛车对决东望洋赛道

THE GUIA CIRCUIT WELCOMES THE SUNCITY GROUP 65TH MACAU GRAND PRIX

艺术达人 Artist 俄罗斯艺术家君士坦丁回归故乡开个展”

RUSSIAN ARTIST KONSTANTIN BESSMERTNY RETURNS TO HIS HOMETOWN TO PRESENT A SOLO EXHIBITION

奢品 Luxury 蒂芙尼推出首个家居与配饰系列

TIFFANY & CO. PRESENTS ITS FIRST HOME & ACCESSORIES COLLECTION

名表 Watches 劳力士与女性世界的美妙缘份

THE WONDERFUL CONNECTION BETWEEN ROLEX AND WOMEN

汽车 Auto

殿堂级传奇酒店La Mamounia示范摩洛哥式传统待客之道

对速度的极致追求

THE PURSUIT FOR SPEED

品牌 Brand

法国品牌珑骧迎来70周年庆

LA MAMOUNIA, THE GREAT SYMBOL OF TRADITIONAL MOROCCAN HOSPITALITY

LONGCHAMP CELEBRATES ITS 70TH ANNIVERSARY

BOMBAY SAPPHIRE, THE CLASSIC BRITISH GIN

时尚 Fashion

FALL PROJECT

DISCOVERING THE BEST PRIVATE MACAU

潮流 Trends

KITCHENS IN

100

CREATIVITY AND DECADENCE BY TOM FORD

CHEF ANGELO WONG OFFERS A "NO MENU" CONCEPT AT YÍ RESTAURANT, AT MORPHEUS

FASHION DESIGNER HE MIAO SHOWCASES HER LATEST DESIGNS

餐厅 Restaurant 摩珀斯酒店天颐餐厅主厨黄赞奇践行无菜单理念，打造“厨师发办”

设计 Design 中国时装设计师何苗展示最新作品

美食 Gourmet 探秘澳门最佳私厨

汤姆·福特尽展创意与奢靡

酒品 Drink 经典英式金酒：孟买蓝宝石金酒

秋日特辑

旅游 Travel

美妆品 Beauty

106

新闻速递 News

精华奢侈美妆品

酒店业新闻集锦

ESSENTIAL LUXURIES

HOSPITALITY NEWS ROUND-UP

时尚坊 Bazaar 梦寐以求的爱物

OBJECTS OF DESIRE

34 10 | OCTOBER- NOVEMBER 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

创办人 Founding partners Bruce Hawker - bruce.h@essentialmacau.com Paulo A. Azevedo - pazevedo@essentialmacau.com 总监及出版人 Director and publisher Paulo A. Azevedo - pazevedo@essentialmacau.com 国际编辑 International editor Fernando Caetano - fcaetano@essentialmacau.com 编辑助理 Editorial Coordinator Cátia Matos - catia.matos@open-media.net 編輯 Editor Edwina Liu - edwina.liu@projectasiacorp.com

披肩 Stole: 伊夫·萨洛蒙皮草 Yves Salomon 衬衣 Blouse: Carlos Gil

摄影及助理 PHOTOGRAPHY: PEDRO FERREIRA, ASSISTED BY ANA VIEGAS 模特 MODEL: CHANTELLE (WE ARE MODELS)

活动及特别项目策划 Events and special projects Victoria Man - vman@macausignature.com 高级美术总监 Senior Art director João Cardoso 广告营运部 Advertising sales

集团成员公司及办事处 Group companies and offices 澳门 Macau - Global Asia Media Ltd. 澳门马揸度博士大马路679号, 南方工业大厦第三座9楼Ｈ座 Block C, Floor 9H - Edif. Ind. Nam Fong Nº 679 Av. Dr. Francisco Vieira Machado Macau SAR +853 2833 1258 电话：(phone) +853 2833 1487 传真：(fax) Portugal - Open Media S.A. Av. da Liberdade, nº69 2º B. - 1250-140 Lisboa UK - Open Media Ltd. Open Media Ltd. 40 Craven Street Charing Cross London WC2N 5NG 《澳门精华》欢迎投稿及惠赐广告，但稿件之选刊须以本刊编辑方针为准。若希望有关材料获退还，需于投寄时附上回邮信封。《澳门精华》对广告内容概不负责。 Essential Macau welcomes all contributions but under its editorial guidelines. Materials must be accompanied by self-addressed stamped envelopes if they are to be returned. Essential Macau assumes no responsibility for content of advertisements.

澳门 Macau +853 2833 1258 +853 2870 5909 essential@projectasiacorp.com 战略营销伙伴 Strategic marketing partner Derrick Tran - derrick.tran@projectasiacorp.com

订阅优惠 Subscription 《澳门精华》为奢华时尚双月刊，现读者可以下列优惠价格订阅共6期：香港澳门地区：港币210元；亚洲地区：25美元(空邮)；世界其他国家和地区：30美元 (空邮)。 To receive a copy of this bi-monthly luxury lifestyle magazine, subscribe to Essential Macau for just HKD 210 for Hong Kong and Macau (6 issues), US$ 25 for Asia (by airmail), and US$ 30 for the rest of the world (by airmail). 所有材料 2011 Global Asia Media Ltd版权所有 All materials COPYRIGHT 2011 Global Asia Media Ltd (ISSN): 2221-1438 严禁部分或全部复制本刊内容。 Reproduction in part or in full is strictly prohibited.

12 | OCTOBER- NOVEMBER 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

特约撰稿人 Contributing writers Adriana Claro, Alexandra Stilwell, Carlos Torres, Catarina Vasques Rito, Cátia Matos, César Brigante, Edwina Liu, Guilherme Marques 特约摄影师 Contributing photographers Pedro Ferreira, Tiago Maya 中文翻译及校对 Chinese language translator/proofreader PROMPT Editorial Services 翻译：韩珺，吴炜声校译：黎庄琳，徐彩燕澳门发行 Distribution in Macau Michael Rimando - mrimando@essentialmacau.com

《澳门精华》由Global Asia Media Ltd出版， Global Asia Media Ltd为 Essential Macau is published by Global Asia Media Ltd, a company owned by:

+853 2833 1258 合资企业

Essential EVENT

一触即发，激情对决 Fast and Furious 今年 11 月 15 日至 18 日，太阳城第 65 届澳门格兰披治大赛车将于东望洋赛道进行真正的速度与激情的对决 The Suncity Group 65th Macau Grand Prix hits the Guia Circuit for a real Fast and Furious showdown from 15th to 18th November this year

每

年 11 月，备受期待的国际体坛盛事 ——澳门格兰披治大赛车——吸引了来自世界各地的大批车迷。澳门格兰披治大赛车创始于 1954 年，至今这项澳门最大型的国际盛事之一已举办至第 65 届。 1954 年，格兰披治大赛车作为本地赛车爱好者自行组织的俱乐部赛事而首次举办，首届赛事历时四小时，在全长三点九英里的东望洋赛道上演，共有十五名车手参与了五十一圈的角逐。当年，车手在碎石铺就的道路上完成比赛，越过由泥土和散沙铺成的赛道冲过终点线。到了 1956 年第三届澳门格兰 14 | OCTOBER- NOVEMBER 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

very November, the much anticipated international sporting event of the Macau Grand Prix attracts legions of fans from all over the world. First rocketing off the grid in 1954, this is the 65th edition of one of Macau’s biggest international events. In 1954, the Grand Prix cut its teeth as a club race for local motoring enthusiasts, with 15 entrants competing in a four-hour test of endurance over 51 laps of the 3.9 mile Guia Circuit. In those days, drivers just finished the races on the cobbled road, sliding across the line

Essential EVENT

澳门精华 | 2018年 10月- 11月 | 15

披治大赛车开锣时，已建成了一个永久性的混凝土看台，包含 10 个维修区，300 个座位。目前东望洋赛道全长为三点八英里。 1960 年，大赛车茁壮成长。澳门格兰披治大赛车首次跻身国际赛车运动年历中，被视为“有外国车手参与的本地赛事”，并首次受国际汽联的体育及房车赛规则监管。 1967 年，大赛车初次引入澳门格兰披治电单车大赛。 2008 年，又增添 GT3 赛事，该赛事被称为国际汽联 GT 世界杯。澳门格兰披治大赛车参赛车手于世界上最具挑战性的赛道之一角逐，由于其复杂的特点——赛道由多个快速直道和急促的转弯组成，在这条要求苛刻的街道赛道上最小宽度仅为 7 米，难度极高。因此，许多伟大的车手都曾来到澳门挑战这些极其险窄的街道，让观众见证了 16 | OCTOBER- NOVEMBER 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

许多为车坛荣誉而战的激动人心的龙争虎斗，无论是汽车还是电单车赛事。

让肾上腺素狂飙的车赛

太阳城集团第 65 届澳门格兰披治大赛车将举办六项比赛，包括一项新赛事：大湾区杯赛。太阳城集团已是连续五年成为大赛车的冠名赞助商，将继续与赛车运动管理机构国际汽车联合会（FIA）联合举办三场世界级赛事，即国际汽联三级方程式世界杯，国际汽联 GT 世界杯和 WTCR 国际汽联世界房车赛。此外，极具看头的赛事还包括第 52 届澳门格兰披治电单车大赛及由 FOOD4U 有限公司赞助的澳门房车杯，绝对精彩纷呈。作为最激动人心的比赛之一，澳门房车杯将吸引车手竞逐东望洋赛道。房车杯将继续采用去年的比赛模式，参赛车辆将

on dirt and loose sand. In 1956 the third Macau Grand Prix was blessed with the construction of a permanent concrete grandstand incorporating 10 pits and seating for 300. The present length of the Guia circuit is 3.8 miles. The race made great strides in 1960, The Macau Grand Prix was, for the first time, entered onto the international racing calendar as a ‘national race with foreign participation,’ subject to regulations published by the FIA for sports and grand touring cars. In 1967, the Macau Motorcycle Grand Prix was introduced. And in 2008, a GT3 race was added to the event, which became known as the FIA GT World Cup. The Macau Grand Prix is contested on one of the most challenging circuits in the world due

Essential EVENT 分 1600cc 和 1950cc 两个组别比赛。届时观众可以观赏到澳门格兰披治大赛车史上夺标最多的车手候夫（Robert Huff）回归东望洋赛场的精彩表现。作为第 65 届澳门格兰披治大赛车的一项新赛事，大湾区杯将云集来自中国大陆、香港、澳门和台湾的车手，同场演示他们驾驭单一品牌、单一型号赛车的车技。观众可以见证当中一些优秀车手的真正能力，精彩可期。

大赛车 65 周年庆，活动缤纷多彩

为庆祝第 65 届大赛车，让本地居民和游客感受赛车的魅力和激情，将在全城多个地点举办一系列庆祝活动。 11 月 10 日至 11 日，“第 65 届大赛车开幕礼暨车展 ”将在塔石广场举行，现场将展示参加澳门 GT 杯 -国际汽联 GT 世界杯及澳门格兰披治电单车大赛的战车，让市民及游客能近距离目睹多架战车风采。而 “东望洋跑道欢乐跑 ”将于 11 月 11 日举行，赛车运动爱好者可以环绕举世闻名的东望洋赛道场跑一圈，此项赛事的起点和终点都设于澳门格兰披治赛车大楼。赛事全长约为 6.2 公里，参与者需要在 1 小时 15 分钟内完成比赛。此外，摄影爱好者请勿错过创意 “65” 赛车主题相片征集活动、大赛车主题短片征集活动，参赛者有机会在 “澳门格兰披治大赛车”官方网上社交平台展示作品，获得点赞最多的前十名参赛者将获得今年大赛车赛事期间集车区入场证、赛事门票及精美纪念品。 쐽

to its complicated characteristics - a combination of fast straights and tight corners, with a minimum width of only seven metres on this demanding street circuit. Unsurprisingly, many great racers have come here to challenge the notoriously narrow streets, with spectators witnessing many an exciting tussle for racing honours, both on four wheels and two.

ADRENALIN-FUELLED RACES Suncity Group 65th Macau Grand Prix will comprise six races, which includes one new event, the Greater Bay Area Cup. Suncity Group, title sponsor of the event for the fifth year running, will continue to work with Fédération Internationale de l’Automobile (FIA), the motorsport governing body, to hold three world-class races; namely, the FIA F3 World Cup, the FIA GT World Cup, and the WTCR FIA World Touring Car Cup. More highlights include the 52nd Macau Motorcycle Grand Prix and the Macau Touring Car Cup sponsored by FOOD4U Co.,Ltd. As one of the most exciting races the Macau Touring Car Cup will attract many excellent racers to the Guia Circuit. Continuing the format of last year, eligible cars will be divided into 1600cc Turbo and over 1950cc classes. Spectators can expect to witness the return of Robert Huff, the most decorated driver in the history of the Macau Grand Prix. The ‘newbie’ of the 65th Grand Prix, the Greater Bay Area Cup will parade drivers from

Mainland China, Hong Kong, Macau and Taiwan to showcase their skills in same-brand, same-model cars. Expect to witness the real abilities of some brilliant drivers.

WARM 65TH ANNIVERSARY CELEBRATIONS In celebration of the 65th anniversary - and to let residents and tourists immerse themselves in race fever - an array of events will be staged around town. Residents and visitors can get a close-up look at the amazing Macau GT Cup - FIA GT World Cup cars and Macau Motorcycle Grand Prix racing bikes in Tap Seac Square at the 65th Macau Grand Prix Opening Ceremony and Auto Show on 10th and 11th November. And on 11th November, motor sports lovers can also run a lap of the famous street circuit in the Guia Circuit Fun Run, with start and finish points at the Macau Grand Prix Building. The total length of the event is approximately 6.2 kilometres, with participants required to complete their run within one hour and 15 minutes. Meanwhile, photography enthusiasts will not want to miss the ‘65’ racing-themed photo and Grand Prix-themed short video collection campaigns, with the participates having the opportunity to show their works on the Grand Prix’s official social media accounts. The top ten most liked participates will also win paddock access passes and tickets to this year’s Grand Prix as well as special souvenirs. 쐽

澳门精华 | 2018年 10月- 11月 | 17

The Man of One Book

归家之时 Time back home 曾经常驻澳门的俄罗斯艺术家君士坦丁畅谈他在家乡的个展 Formerly based in Macau, Russian artist Konstantin Bessmertny talks about his new solo exhibition in his hometown 文/by EDWINA LIU 18 | OCTOBER- NOVEMBER 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential EXHIBITION

中

国人相信成功需天时地利人和，而这个理念也可以体现于俄国艺术家君士坦丁的故事中。

26 年前……

生于前苏联海兰泡，君士坦丁（Konstantin Bessmertny）于 1992 年搬到澳门，在城中组织一场展览。当时，澳门是西方人探索亚洲的一个门户城市。年轻的君士坦丁刚从大学毕业，而一间画廊邀请他前来澳门组织展览。 “我从未 [有意决定 ]留在澳门生活。那并非我的初衷，很少俄国人会说英语，而我会讲，所以我收到了画廊邀请。当时我认为那是我拓宽视野，并尝试一些新事物的时机，” 君士坦丁说道。“当时我正在电视上换频道，而我突然间见到了李小龙在澳门拍摄的功夫片，当时我觉得澳门是一个奇妙的地方。然后我就来了。” 在小城澳门生活超过二十载，这位艺术家在本地文化汲取灵感，创作了大量艺术作品，希望通过其作品表达意见。君士坦丁擅长以荒谬手法处理严肃主题。他最近完成的项目位于以瓷器闻名于世的景德镇。他将赌场众生相绘画于一个瓷器花瓶的一面，而另一面则画上了宗教符号，他解释道：“我希望创作这类作品，让人们思考并质疑他们所处的现实。” 君士坦丁称自己是一个处于十字路口上的艺术家，东方与西方、过去与现在、经 I Told You So

hinese people believe that to be successful you need to do things at the right time, in the right place and meet the right people – a philosophy that can be applied to famous Russian artist Konstantin Bessmertny’s life. Provocatio Ad Populum, Birkin Bag

26 YEARS AGO... Born in Blagoveschensk, in the former USSR, Konstantin Bessmertny moved to Macau in 1992 to organise an exhibition in the city. At that time, Macau was an entry point for Westerners exploring Asia. Young Bessmertny had just graduated from university and a gallery had invited him to organise in Macau, “I never [made a conscious decision] to stay in Macau. It was not my desire. I was invited by the gallery because not many Russians spoke English but I did. I though it was the right time to expand and try something new,” Bessmertny explains. “I was changing the channel on the TV and I suddenly saw a movie of Bruce Lee fighting in Macau and thought it was a [strange] place. That’s why I came here.” Whilst living in the small town for over two decades, the artist created a lot of artworks inspired by the special local culture and wanted to express his opinions through his works. He excels at playing with solemn topics in an absurd way. The latest project he has undertaken was in Jingdezhen, China, a town famous for producing 澳门精华 | 2018年 10月- 11月 | 19

Essential EXHIBITION

Baseleouosa

典与当代以及街头文化与高雅艺术都在这里交汇。 “我希望站在一个前无古人的地点。我的大部分作品都有着多重含义。我喜欢用充满误导的信息去吸引注意力。当人们细看时，越细加审视，就了解越多，发现越多。身处现代的人们丧失了欣赏原创艺术的耐性，人们用三秒就会对一件作品下定论。 “人们从一段距离外见到艺术品时，他们的视线会被抢眼的色彩或人物吸引，而他们会希望看到画面上的更多细节。”人们靠近时，他们会发现一个有趣的标题，他们会改变想法，并希望进一步了解这件作品。随着澳门租金上涨，君士坦丁将工作室搬至香港。困境往往会带来机遇，他在香港找到了一个理想位置，并开始了忙碌的双城生活。 “香港工作室的位置非常好，楼下甚至有间绘画用品店，”他说道。“自由对创意人士而言最为重要，我们需要提醒自己，你并不 20 | OCTOBER- NOVEMBER 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Strict Father

属于一间画廊，你也不会被一笔金额收买。你不可以成为银行或教育的奴隶。要自由，你无需很有钱，你只需要让生活返璞归真。” 搬至香港在一定程度上帮他开拓了市场，但他认为港澳的艺术环境仍不够进步，他总结道：“普通人不会购买艺术作品，他们不需要艺术。”

现在……

离开祖国 26 年后，这位知名艺术家终于有机会在家乡举行个展。 “每件事都讲究时机，我认为现在是在俄罗斯举办个展的理想时候。我觉得我也可以有所回馈了。那里的人们对别国文化十分感兴趣，他们知道我在当地出生，但后来搬了到其他地方。到时会有一些讲座，学习艺术的学生也会等待着我。我正在接受他们批判的目光，要让你的同胞接受你，是一件非常困难的事。我不会满足他们的猜疑，但我会让他们惊讶！”

traditional Chinese porcelain vases. He has painted the casino public on one side of the vase, with a religion symbol painted on the other, explaining: “I want to create these kinds of things to get people to think and doubt the reality they live in.” The artist declares himself an artist on the crossroads of East and West, past and present, classical and contemporary, street and high culture. “I want to stand at a point that no-one stood at before. Most of my works have layers of meaning. I want to use misleading messages to attract attention. When they get closer to it - the more they read, the more they know - they will find more things. In an era of people losing their patience to appreciate original art, they normally judge an artwork in just three seconds. “When people see artworks from a distance they are attracted by eye-catching colours or

Essential EXHIBITION

该展览将于 10 月 4 日－21 日在海参崴的艺术家联会中心展出。君士坦丁年轻时正是在此学习艺术。 “我在 11 岁时开始投身艺术学习，一直延续了 17 年。我在海参崴学习艺术期间练就了“一身好本领”。我在那里学会了大量的艺术创作手法，同时开始了一种非常精确的绘画风格。” 君士坦丁个展《如何责罚，谁予完成？》（What is to Blame & Who is to be Done?）的题目参考了俄罗斯作家车尔尼雪夫斯基作品《怎么办》（What is to be Done?）。“该展览是我今年早前伦敦展览的延续，”他说道，“我将展示不同系列，但主要视觉将与俄国革命 100 周年相关。” 展览共有绘画、雕塑和 2D 装置等 16 件作品，展览场地则分为设有不同概念的四个展厅。其中一个重点系列《再造》则以中国臭名昭著的翻版 DVD 产业为灵感。 “我将翻版图像与错误的字幕混合在一起，介绍世界上的不同维度，”君士坦丁说道，“我还会在俄罗斯完成两项装置艺术，但当然我会提前完成一些准备工作。” 他著名以搞笑的方式展现英雄的 Bestiarium 系列也会在展览中展出。“你也会见到米哈伊尔 ·亚历山德罗维奇 ·巴枯宁吸烟的肖像，而我将会点燃那支香烟，”他认为 “这 [类事情]将改变人们心中对特定偶像的定位。” 当谈及对这次展览有何希望时，君士坦丁表示：“展览应该是有趣的，我讨厌当代艺术的展示方式。有些在画廊中举行的展览就像葬礼一样，我不想强迫人们前来。我希望办一个人们有意欲前来的展览。” 쐽

Left is Right & Right is Wrong

Time Rich, Cash Poor Now

figures. they will want to see more of the pictures. When they come closer, they will find an interesting title, and they will change their mind and want to see more of the artwork. As rentals continued rising in Macau, Bessmertny moved his studio to Hong Kong in recent years. Adversity brings opportunities; the artist found a good location in Hong Kong and started his busy work across two cities. “The location is very good, there’s even a paint shop downstairs.” he says. “The most important thing for a creative profession is freedom. We need to remind ourselves that you don’t belong to a gallery or any commission. You can’t be the slave of the bank or education. To be free, you don’t need to be rich, just scale down your life.” Moving to Hong Kong has helped him open the market in a way but he considers that the art environment in Hong Kong and Macau is still not progressive enough, concluding: “Common people don’t buy artworks and they don’t need art.”

TODAY... After 26 years away from his country, this famous artist will finally have his solo exhibition in his hometown. “Everything has its time. I think it’s the right time to have the solo show in Russia. I think I can give something back. People there are curious about culture outside the country. They know I was born there but I went somewhere else. There be will some lectures and art students waiting for me. I am being criticised. To be accepted by your own people is very difficult. I am not going to fulfil their suspicions. I will spring some surprises on them!” This exhibition will be shown at the House of Artist’s Union, Vladivostok during 4-21

October. The city is also the place where he perfected his skills whilst young. “ I started serious fine art study when I was 11 years old and I studied for 17 years. The time I studied fine art in Vladivostok is like a toolbox for me. I learned a wide range of doing art there. I started with a very precise style of painting there.” The solo exhibition - titled What is to Blame & Who is to be Done? - is a reference to Chernyshevsky’s book What is to be Done? “This exhibition is a continuation of my exhibition in London early this year,” he says. “I will show the different series, but the main angle will connect to 100 years of Russian Revolution.” A total of 16 artworks, including paintings, sculptures and 2D installations will be exhibited in a venue comprising four rooms featuring different ideas. Another highlight series – Remake - is inspired by the notorious fake DVD industry in China. “I blend the fake images with the wrong subtitles to introduce different dimensions to the world,” says Bessmertny. “I’m going to finish two works in Russia, but of course I have done some preparation in advance.” The renowned Bestiarium series, which showcases heroes in funny ways, can also be seen in the exhibition. “You will see Mikhail Bakunin smoking a cigarette and I will light up the cigarette at the show. This [kind of thing] will change the position of specific idols in people’s minds,” he believes. When speaking of the aspirations of this exhibition, the artist says: “Everything should be fun. I hate the contemporary way of showing art. Some exhibitions in the galleries are like funerals, I don’t want to force anyone to come. I like to make an exhibition that people want to come to.” 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 10月- 11月 | 21

筑起文化交流的桥梁 Bridging cultures 在澳门举办的首届“中国与葡语国家艺术年展 - 知我者 ” 展出来自中国内地、澳门、香港、葡国、安哥拉、巴西和许多其它葡语国家的代表性作品 The ‘1st Annual Arts Exhibition of China and Portuguese-speaking Countries – Alter Ego’, held in Macau, features representative works from Mainland China, Macau, Hong Kong, Portugal, Angola, Brazil and many other Portuguese-speaking countries 文/by EDWINA LIU

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百多年来，澳门与葡萄牙联系紧密，无疑能在双方的文化交流上发挥最佳的桥梁作用。近月，27 位艺术家在中葡艺术年展展出各自的新作。展览由葡国艺术家亚历山大。法图（又名 Vhils）及保琳 ·弗塞尔策划，分六个专题展示作品。作品的灵感均来自展览主题 “知我者”，同时对这个概念展开探讨。每个专题都围绕一个独立的概念，各具特色，包括不同艺术家的语言和视角，它们由同一个前设题目串联，形成相互依存的关系。作品已在澳门各处展出，包括一个公共装置艺术作品。展览展示了许多不同的当代艺术作品，深入探究错综复杂的自我形成的过程，揭露自我跟他者和跟一般外界关系的本质。 22 | OCTOBER- NOVEMBER 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

ith more than a hundred years of strong ties with Portugal, Macau no doubt is the best city to bridge cultures between Portuguese-speaking countries and China. In recent months, as part of the Annual Arts Exhibition of China and Portuguesespeaking countries, 27 artists have unveiled new works in Macao. Curated by Portuguese artist Alexandre Farto - aka Vhils - and Pauline Foessel, the works have been shown across six individual exhibitions, all of which are inspired by and explore the central theme of the alter ego. Each exhibition is an independent concept with its own unique character that includes the words and perspectives of the artist as they

Essential EXHIBITION

“知我者六个展览中的每个展览都会针对一个独立的概念，有自己的特点，包括不同艺术家的作品和视角，它们由同一个前设题目串联，形成相互依存的关系。”策展人说道。主展设于海事工房 1 号，该处原称嘉路士一世船坞机械室，位于妈阁，对澳门有着重要的历史意义。展览期间，葡国艺术家 Add Fuel 的作品 “地层 03”和贝迪塔工作室（佩德罗·费雷拉和莉塔·祖奥）的“数码装置：最佳揣测”于美狮美高梅的视博广场展出。 Add Fuel 是位葡国视觉艺术家和插画家，擅长融合传统装饰元素和当代视觉要素，创作出复杂而细腻，令人叹为观止的新式作品。这次，他运用渐变色创作“地层 03”，引导观者质疑身边的实质现实环境。另一件作品 ─由贝迪塔工作室创作的 “数码装置：最佳揣测”─在视博广场全球面积最大的室内永久 LED 屏幕上展示。数码装置中的肖像图是以葡国 60 到 90 年代工业瓷砖的饰片制作而成，图案又与拼贴而成的瓷砖交替显现。如今，这些瓷砖已极其罕见，但葡国人熟悉的很多地方都有这些元素，所以他们能够轻易地识别出来。 쐽

all form one symbiotic collection entwined by a common premise. The artworks have been displayed across the city of Macau and include one public art installation. The exhibition displays many different expressions of contemporary art, delving deeply into the intricacies of the construction of the self in order to expose the true nature of its relationship with the other, as well as with the outside world in general. “While each of the of six exhibitions within Alter Ego will work as an independent concept, with its own unique character, including works and perspectives by different artists, together they will form one symbiotic collection, entwined by a common premise.” the curators comment. The main exhibition is displayed in The Navy Yard No.1, formerly known as Carlos I dock mechanical room. It is situated in Zona da Barra and holds a historic significance for Macao. During the exhibition, ‘Stratum 03’ by Portuguese artist, ‘Add Fuel’ and ‘Digital

Best Guess’ by Pedrita Studio (Pedro Ferreira and Rita João) are shown at MGM Cotai’s Spectacle. ‘Add Fuel’ is a Portuguese visual artist and illustrator who excels at combining traditional decorative elements with contemporary visual references in new forms that reveal an impressive complexity and a masterful attention to detail. This time, he creates the ‘Stratum 03’ floor art piece, leading visitors to question the reality of what is present in their immediate physical surroundings through the use of graded colour. Another artwork – ‘Digital Best Guess’ by the Pedrita Studio - is shown on the world’s largest area of permanent indoor LED screens at the Spectacle. In this digital installation, the portraits are produced with trims of reclaimed industrial Portuguese tiles from the 60’s to the 90’s, alternating with a patchwork of tiles that today are extremely rare, but that are easily recognisable in many places familiar to Portuguese people. 쐽

澳门精华 | 2018年 10月- 11月 | 23

蒂芙尼藍为日常生活增姿彩 Indulge in Tiffany Blue every day 蒂芙尼家居与配饰系列亮相澳门银河 Tiffany & Co. Home & Accessories Collection debuts in Galaxy Macau 文/by EDWINA LIU

迷

人的蒂芙尼蓝盒是每位女性梦寐以求之物。为了增加品牌魅力，吸引顾客，蒂芙尼以美好的事物不应限于特别日子和场合为理念，打造以日常用品为主的家居用品与配饰系列，并于去年在美国推出，随即大获成功。澳门银河蒂芙尼专卖店特设专区，展示系列奢华的配饰用品，流露品牌特有的奇趣奇想本色－当中包括精心制作的小猪储蓄罐，热卖的 Tiffany x Steiff Return to Tiffany Love 马海毛泰迪熊，以及 Everyday Objects 系列—搭配蒂芙尼蓝色珐琅的镀金纯银锡罐，设计灵感来自著名的蒂芙尼宝石底面。 24 | OCTOBER- NOVEMBER 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

he alluring blue box of Tiffany & Co. is the dream of every woman. In order to enable customers to be even more addicted to the blue magic, the brand has releases its Home & Accessories Collection embracing everyday use products. Launched last year in the United States to an instant success, the Tiffany & Co. luxury Home & Accessories Collection is borne out of the notion that beautiful things should not be limited to special occasions. The Tiffany store in Galaxy Macau has dedicated a special corner to displaying an array

Essential ACCESSORIES

受蒂芙尼传奇橱窗设计师吉恩 ·摩尔（Gene Moore）的作品启发，展出漆桶的橱窗饰以立体感强的霓虹飞溅，别具艺术韵味。漆桶这个日常用品变身为配以银边的水晶冰桶，是全新家居用品与配饰系列的新品。品牌也关怀宠物，所以可以在专区看到既经典又可爱的宠物配件。蒂芙尼蓝的宠物项圈和骨瓷狗粮碗，令小动物显得更加活泼生动。由意大利优质皮革制作的项圈和客制五金饰件，予人一种奢华的印象及感觉……更有骨瓷狗碗！其它精致的手工银制家居用品，如量角器、尺规、吸管、急救箱和纸杯亦留待顾客逐一探索。此系列的大部分产品均可刻字，成为你的专属物品。 쐽

a sterling silver trim in the new Home & Accessories Collection. Tiffany also considers our furry friends, thus adorable and classic pet accessories can also be seen here. The little ones must be a lot livelier with the Tiffany & Co. Pet collar in Tiffany Blue leather made of highest quality Italian leather and custom hardware for a luxurious look and feel... plus Tiffany & Co. Dog bowl in bone china. More delicate handcrafted sterling silver home accessories such as a protractor, ruler, drinking straw, paint can, first aid box and paper cup also await discovery. Most of the products in this Collection can be engraved to make them uniquely personal. 쐽

of luxurious accessories, possessing a whimsical wink that is quintessentially Tiffany’s, including a meticulously crafted Colour Block Piggy Bank, best seller Tiffany x Steiff Return to Tiffany Love Teddy Bear in Mohair, and the Everyday Objects Tin Can in Sterling Silver and Vermeil with Tiffany Blue Enamel Accent inspired by the culet of the dazzling stone Tiffany is known for. Inspired by the work of Gene Moore, the legendary window designer of the brand, the window installation displaying a paint can is artfully displayed with a sculptural splash of neon. Shoppers can see this common household object transformed into a crystal ice bucket with

澳门精华 | 2018年 10月- 11月 | 25

Essential WATCHES

Angelique Kerber @Jon Buckle

激励人心的女性 Inspiring women 劳力士与女性世界结缘始于 1927 年。自那以后，这种关系从未停止过 The connection between Rolex and the female world dates back to 1927. Since then, that relationship has never stopped growing 文/by CÁTIA MATOS

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力士董事局主席贝特朗 ·格罗斯 (Bertrand Gros)说：“劳力士是独一无二的，而我想将来也始终如此。”这位瑞士制表厂的主席认为，其创始人汉斯·威尔斯多夫(Hans Wilsdorf)的才华是如今劳力士成为最高品质象征的重要原因。与劳力士一样，其代言人也拥有相同的独特之处。劳力士的代言人来自各行各业，从艺术到体育甚至科学探索领域都有，而女性代言人更都具有卓越和高雅的特质，是全世界众多女性的真榜样。

26 | OCTOBER- NOVEMBER 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

1927 年是这个日内瓦制表商开始与女性世界紧密相连的开始。当时劳力士制造首只防水腕表： “Oyster”蚝式腕表。而为证明其抗渗性，邀请了梅塞迪丝 ·吉莉斯 (Mercedes Gleitze)在她横渡英吉利海峡时佩戴这只腕表。最终这项成功的壮举被《每日邮报》(Daily Mail)发表在头版，而这位年轻的英国女士也成为了劳力士首位代言人以及经典的蚝式腕表的标志。凭着这项成就，梅塞迪丝在众多劳力士代言人中显得出众出色。

olex is unique and I think it always will be.” These are the words of Bertrand Gros, president of the Swiss manufacturer, who believes that the genius of its founder, Hans Wilsdorf, was the crucial factor for turning the house into the maximum symbol of excellence it is today. Just like Rolex, its ambassadors share the same uniqueness. Belonging to the most varied fields, from the arts to sports and even exploration, the female faces chosen to represent the

Sylvia Earl @Kyp Evans

Dame Kiri Te Kanawa @Ambroise Tézenas

海洋生物学家席薇亚 ·厄尔 (Sylvia Earle) 是海洋探索的先驱，担任《国家地理》驻会探险家，她于 1982 年成为劳力士代言人。她与劳力士的渊源始于 1970 年，当时她参与 “玻陨石 2 号 ”(Tektite II)水下科学计划，其中全体潜水员均配备劳力士腕表。“大多数腕表都被视为珠宝配饰，或对探险家而言，也只是单纯的报时工具。然而，我觉得我的腕表却蕴含更深的意义。劳力士不仅为科学探索、环境保育和艺术事业提供支持，更致力为人类福祉带来贡献。” 林赛·沃恩(Lindsey Vonn)是著名的滑雪运动员，曾获得超过 80 项比赛冠军，也曾赢得奥运会高山滑雪项目奖牌。她自 2009 年起成为劳力士代言人。除了体育上的辉煌成就，她也成立了“林赛·沃恩基金会”，致力于启发和鼓励女性。“我认为重要的是我们做什么以及如何去做——而劳力士也实践着这句格言，这就是我和劳力士合作多年的原因。劳力士走出自己的道路。做好本份的同时也帮助别人达成目标。” 网球运动员加尔比妮·穆古拉扎(Garbiñe Muguruza)、克里斯 ·埃弗特 (Chris Evert)和安立奎·科贝尔(Angelique Kerber)也是劳力士代言人。加尔比妮在法国网球公开赛首次夺得大满贯后加入劳力士家庭。“每个人都各有期盼，而我认为达成自己的目标就是一种伟大，而不论目标大小。我 2014 年的表现很好，不仅在澳大利亚网球公开赛中晋级第四轮，更首次击败儿时偶像塞雷娜 ·威廉姆斯 (Serena Williams)，最终跻身世界排名前 20 位，那是我网球事业上很重要的一步。” 至于克里斯 ·埃弗特 — — 这位 18 项大满贯 28 | OCTOBER- NOVEMBER 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

house have always reflected excellence and elegance, and are genuine role models for millions of women the world over. The year 1927 marked the beginning of a close relationship between the Genevan manufacturer and the world of women. To prove the impermeability of the Oyster (the first waterproof wristwatch), the brand invited swimmer Mercedes Gleitze to wear the model when she famously swam across the English Channel. The successful feat was marked by an announcement on the front page of the Daily Mail, making the young English woman the first official ambassador of Rolex and a true symbol of the iconic Oyster. With this achievement, Mercedes Gleitze stood at the top of a long list of Rolex ambassadors. Marine biologist Sylvia Earle, a pioneering name in marine exploration and National Geographic explorer-in-residence, became a Rolex ambassador in 1982. Her connection to the house began in 1970, when the diving team of the underwater science programme Tektite II (to which Sylvia belonged) was equipped with the manufacturer’s watches. “Most watches are looked upon as jewellery or — for us explorers — as an equipment to tell the time, but my watch to me has a much deeper meaning. The concept of Rolex is supporting exploration, conservation, the arts and the best that humans can be.” Skier Lindsey Vonn is another associated female face. Champion of more than 80 com-

petitions and downhill Olympic medalist, she has been a Rolex ambassador since 2009. Besides her triumphs, the athlete also created the Lindsey Vonn Foundation, which has inspired and given strength to other women. “What matters is what we do and how we do it. That’s why I’ve been with Rolex for so many years – because the brand also shares this motto. It built its own path. It did its part and helps others conquer their goals.” Still in the sports category, tennis players Garbiñe Muguruza, Chris Evert and Angelique Kerber are also part of this club. Garbiñe joined the Rolex family after winning the French Open – her first Grand Slam title. “Everybody has individual expectations and I think greatness is when you achieve your own goals — no matter how big or small they are. In 2014, I had a great year; I reached the fourth round at the Australian Open, beat my childhood hero Serena Williams for the first time and finally ended up being in the top 20, which was an incredibly important step for me. As for Chris Evert, winner of 18 Grand Slams, she sees the connection to the house like belonging to an exclusive club. “When I look at my Rolex, I don’t see 18 Grand Slams. Rather I see a reflection of all the different stages of my life combined: not only in my tennis, but also my family life, my business life, and all the goals that I’ve achieved. It is an extension of me.” German player Angelique Kerber admits that this relationship also has a special meaning for her. “It means a lot to be

Essential WATCHES

冠军，她感觉担任劳力士代言人就像置身于一个精英俱乐部。“当看着我的劳力士腕表时，我不会联想起那 18 项大满贯，而是看到我每个人生阶段的写照，当中不仅是关于网球，更有家庭生活、事业和一切成就。它是我生命的延伸。”来自德国的安立奎·科贝尔也认为她与劳力士的联系有着一种特别意义。“加入劳力士大家庭对我而言意义重大，因为每位代言人都获得过很大的成就，而且都是通过不懈的努力。” 来自新西兰的基莉 ·迪 ·卡娜娃 (Kiri Te Kanawa)在 1976 年成为劳力士在文化界的首位代言人。劳力士也支持她的同名基金会，致力于培养和鼓励有天赋的青少年。頌娅 ∙ 咏切娃 (Sonya Yoncheva)也是劳力士的文化界代言人，这位来自保加利亚的女高音在 2010 年世界著名的多明戈世界歌剧声乐大赛 (Operalia)摘下桂冠，并在一年后接受劳力士的邀请成为代言人。“作为艺术家，我非常幸运能代言劳力士……劳力士对艺术的担当和贡献与我正在做以及将一直做的事情相一致。”还是在艺术领域，中国著名钢琴家王羽佳自 2009 年开始与劳力士有关联。“劳力士像是给了我一个期盼的目标，就像激励着我不断努力做到最好。” 劳力士董事局主席贝特朗·格罗斯说， “多年来我们都为自己定下很艰巨的目标 ” ，但正如劳力士代言人一样，“我们一直都能超越既定的目标 ”。他补充道：“虽然 ‘大树高不过天 ’，但没理由认为劳力士会舍弃自己的道路。我找不到劳力士不能继续发展的理由。这个 ‘身份象征 ’的品牌、我们的创新、企业文化都会继续冲击着全球新世代人们的想象力。” 쐽

Annika Sörenstam @Ben Hassett

Sonya Yoncheva @Ben Hassett

part of the Rolex family because everybody has achieved something really big and they are all fighting for it.” New Zealander Kiri Te Kanawa became the first Rolex ambassador in the cultural field in 1976. The brand has supported her namesake foundation, created to hone and encourage young talents. Sonya Yoncheva is another representative in this area. The Bulgarian soprano accepted the invitation from the brand a year after she won the opera competition Operalia in 2011. “I’m very lucky to be a Rolex artist (...) Its commitment and its contribution to the arts represent what I have been doing and what I still intend to do.” Still on the arts front, famous

Chinese pianist Yuja Wang has been linked to Rolex since 2009. “Rolex is there to give me a goal to look forward to; it is almost like a motivation for me to always strive for the best,” she says. According to Bertrand Gros, “we have set ourselves objectives over the years considered very ambitious”, yet, like its ambassadors, “we have always exceeded them”. He adds: “Although ‘trees do not grow to the sky’, there is no reason to think that the brand will not continue on this path. I do not see why, in the long term, Rolex could not continue its expansion. The ‘status symbol’ brand, our innovation, our corporate culture should continue to strike the imagination of new generations worldwide.” 쐽

Garbiñe Muguruza @Chris Trotman

Yuja Wang @Ben Hassett

澳门精华 | 2018年 10月- 11月 | 29

Essential WATCHES

瑞宝再现往昔辉煌 Chronoswiss – Success is in the past 30 | OCTOBER- NOVEMBER 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential WATCHES

35 年前，德国制表大师朗恩对机械表信心十足，对石英表颇无好感。他创立的瑞宝机械表品牌如今正在奥利佛 · 爱博施坦的掌舵下继续前进 Thirty-five years ago, Gerd Rüdiger Lang emerged as a visionary when he believed in the mechanical watch as opposed to quartz. Chronoswiss is his legacy, and today it is taking new steps with Oliver Ebstein at the helm 文/by CARLOS TORRES

瑞

士国内外在关注钟表业发展的人都对瑞宝（Chronoswiss）非常熟悉，它的表款彰显时代意义，有些甚至让许多知名大品牌争相效仿。瑞宝的创始人是德国制表大师朗恩（Gerd Rüdiger Lang），他还和德国著名制表师、古董钟表研究专家莱因哈特 ·麦斯（Reinhard Meis）携手创作了一部钟表界最著名的著作（《朗格──萨克森的卓著钟表》）。朗恩创立瑞宝时并不觉得品牌名字（Chronoswiss）中含有 ”Swiss”（瑞士）一词有何不妥，但瑞宝的确是在瑞士的邻国德国，更确切地说是慕尼黑生产制作。瑞宝自 1983 年创立起就致力于生产机械表，最初的产品系列基于许多老款英纳格机芯 Enicar 165 制作，当时的制表业正值困境，石英表依旧雄霸至尊地位。尽管如此，慧眼卓识的朗恩却相信机械表终会复苏，并且后来的确从机械表市场的回暖中受益。1987 年，瑞宝第一枚经典的规范指针显示（也称三针一线显示，可有效避免同轴指针间相互重叠而造成的视觉误差）腕表诞生，将小时、分钟、和秒钟分开显示，以最出众的的 “Observatoire”（天文台）式专属刻度呈现。三针一线腕表的推出为这个年轻品牌的成功和发展做出了杰出贡献。瑞宝腕表表壳简约大方，表壳边缘饰有精致的装饰纹，表盘呈现古典主义美感，剑形指针和大而好用的“洋葱头”表冠等元素都洋溢着强烈的瑞宝独特风格，使瑞宝堪与瑞士制表界一些最负盛名的品牌比肩。以军事为灵感的 Timemaster 系列，采用荧光表盘，其中有些表款至今依旧让人不可小觑。这些腕表完全专注于功能性和易读性，但仍有许多倾心于设计巧妙的机械表的表迷对之情有独钟。瑞宝公司发展的过程中，也经历了市场上的跌宕起伏，最终导致一些新成员进入公司董事会，而他们并不像朗恩那样具有前瞻意识，对该尊尚机械表在中长期的发展趋向茫

hronoswiss is one of those familiar names, and for those who have followed the evolution of the watch industry for some years now, in and outside Switzerland, it brings to mind models that defined an era and which, in some cases, established a trend followed by much larger houses with much more capacity. The man responsible for this legacy is still Gerd Rüdiger Lang, author of one of the finest books about chronographs, co-authored with Reinhard Meis. Lang is the founder of a house that initially didn’t mind the strange contradiction of including “Swiss” in its name but basing its production in neighbouring Germany, more precisely in Munich. Producing mechanical watches since 1983, the initial series based on an old lot of calibres Enicar 165 emerged in a troubled period in the history of watchmaking, when quartz still reigned supreme. Despite that, Lang was one of the visionaries who believed in the resurgence of the mechanical watch and who subsequently benefitted from a market that went back to its origins. The first wristwatch with classic regulator indicator, separating the seconds, minutes and hours indicators, giving them dedicated scales in the best “Observatoire” fashion, emerged in 1987 and contributed exponentially to the success and growth of the young brand. The simplicity of these models’ cases, defined by a delicate decoration of the rim, was accompanied by the classicism of the dials, the sword-shaped hands and a large, easy-to-use “ognion” crown. These elements established an unmistakable trademark that led Chronoswiss to stand shoulder to shoulder with some of the most prestigious names on the Swiss watchmaking scene. The Timemaster line, of military inspiration and with an entirely luminescent dial, has 澳门精华 | 2018年 10月- 11月 | 31

Essential WATCHES

然不知。公司后来推出的产品没有鲜明特色，与品牌精髓相去甚远，最后使得公司陷入困境，并且连自己的创始人也拒之门外。 2012 年，瑞宝品牌上市出售，一对瑞士年轻夫妇投资人决定让品牌回归正位。奥利弗 ·艾布斯坦（Oliver Ebstein）和妻子伊娃 ·艾布斯坦（Eva Ebstein）开始着手复兴品牌并为其重新定义，避免了瑞宝陷入其他因不能与时俱进而倒闭的品牌的悲催命运。瑞宝重又追本溯源，致力于重启三个重要系列：Regulator 三针一线系列，Sirius 天狼星系列和 Timemaster 时尊系列。在上届巴塞尔国际钟表展上，瑞宝还以 Regulator 腕表为基础推出了最新系列 — — Flying Regulator Night and Day 昼夜系列，重新演绎了品牌经典。针对这一全新系列，品牌希望将其巧妙独特的机械装置呈现眼前，因为它通常都被藏在表盘下面。此外，“分离”时间指针的小齿轮也是该系列的不可或缺的设计元素。多层装置组成的表盘，现在成为表体结构的一部分，齿轮组中的板桥和小齿轮，连同生动的昼夜显示窗都安装于这结构上。板桥边角都经过精心完美打磨，表面呈现颗粒效果。表盘顶部有两个飞翔圈，分别指示小时和分钟。瑞宝 Flying Regulator Night and Day 昼夜腕表保留了品牌特色设计，搭载一体化自动上弦机芯，表壳直径 41 毫米。如今，瑞宝总部已不在慕尼黑。其总部如今位于瑞士卢塞恩（Luzern），这里悠久的制表传统足以为昔日无比辉煌的品牌开拓无限光明的未来。 쐽

models that still leave no one indifferent. These pieces are focused entirely on their functionality and legibility, but which still command a strong attraction from all those who appreciate a welldesigned mechanical watch. The growth of Chronoswiss as a company, and the various highs and lows of the market that it had to sustain, ended up allowing the infiltration of executives into the company board that didn’t have the same foresight as Lang as to what defines a relevant mechanical watch in the mid- to long-term. The succession of featureless models that were a far cry from the essence that defined the brand put the company in difficulties and ended up pushing away the founder himself. In 2012, Chronoswiss was on the market, and it was up to a young couple of Swiss investors to restore the brand to its rightful place. Oliver Ebstein and his wife, Eva Ebstein, embarked on a process of recovering and redefining the brand, saving the historical name from joining a list of defunct brands that didn’t adapt to the new paradigms of today. Proof of that is the return to the roots demonstrated by its focus on three key lines: Regulator, Sirius and Timemaster. The new

collection, presented by the brand during the last Baselworld fair, favoured the regulator model with the launch of a version that represents a reinterpretation of the Chronoswiss classic, the Flying Regulator Night and Day. For this new model, the brand wanted the peculiar mechanism to remain visible, as it is usually hidden under the dial. And so, the cogs that “separate” time become an integral element of the design of this watch. The dial, comprising multiple layers, is now part of a module on which the bridges and wheels of the gear trains are assembled, as well as the expressive day and night indications. The bridges are brilliantly finished with polished angles and flat surfaces with granular finish. At the top of the dial are two flying rings, on which the seconds and hours have been imprinted. The Chronoswiss Flying Regulator Night and Day features an integrated self-winding movement in a 41mm case and the brand’s characteristic design. Today, Chronoswiss is no longer in Munich. Its headquarters are now in Luzern, a city with enough watchmaking tradition to support the bright future of the brand whose success is undoubtedly written in the past. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 10月- 11月 | 33

Essential AUTO

血脉贲张的极速追求 Adrenaline junkies 陆上速度纪录的历史经历了高低起伏，当然也伴随着许多有趣的故事 The history of land speed records is made up of highs and lows, with plenty of interesting stories along the way 文/by GUILHERME MARQUES

930年代到40年代间，最快纪录的保持者是英国人约翰 ·罗兹 ·科布（John Rhodes Cobb）。科布的出生地距离萨里郡的布鲁克兰赛道不远，他的一生都以这样或那样的方式与速度相连。科布在1952年9月29日不幸遇难，当时他正试图打破世界水上速度纪录（水上交通工具达到的被正式认可的最快速度），为此建造的快艇Crusader以240 英里的时速一头扎进了尼斯湖（Loch Ness）科布被抛出快艇当场身亡。事发当天几个小时，王太后还亲自到苏格拉为科布送上祝福。因为在当时，科布是

uring the 1930s and ‘40s, the fastest man in the world was an Englishman called John Rhodes Cobb. Cobb was born close to the Brooklands track in Surrey, and throughout his life, in one way or another, he was always linked to speed. The Brit died tragically on September 29, 1952, when an attempt to break the world water speed record went wrong and the Crusader, the boat built for that purpose, dived nose-first into the Loch Ness at over 240mph, projecting Cobb across the lake and killing him instantly.

JOHN COBB AND THE RAILTON SPECIAL

On that same day, some hours before, the Queen Mother had travelled to Scotland to wish John Cobb luck. This was because, at the time, Cobb was the world land speed recordholder, a feat achieved some years earlier and which made him famous and worthy of admiration for the English people and Crown. On August 26, 1939, reaching a speed of 592.09km/h on the salty plains of Bonneville, in the state of Utah, Cobb made history. The most curious thing about John Cobb’s record was that it was achieved at a time when the powerful Mercedes-Benz, no less, was also developing a vehicle aimed at beating that same record. The German technological power in the late 1930s was immense, and both Mercedes34 | OCTOBER- NOVEMBER 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

ANDY GREEN AND THE THRUST SSC

世界陆地速度纪录保持者。科布在几年前取得该项成就，一举成名，深受英国人民和王室的敬重。 1939 年 8 月 26 日，科布在美国犹他州博纳维尔平原上驶出了 592.09 公里 /小时的速度，创造了历史。关于约翰·科布的纪录最让人好奇的一点是，当时强大的梅赛德斯-奔驰（Mercedes-Benz）也正开发一款旨在打破同样纪录的汽车。20 世纪 30 年代后期的德国技术力量无比强大，梅赛德斯 -奔驰和奥迪（Auto Union）的技术都远远领先于英国和意大利同行。二战前格兰披治赛车上最受人瞩目的赛车是奔驰银箭 Silver Arrows，表明当时的国家社会主义工人党（纳粹党）奖励给品牌强大的预算参加赛事，以在与其他国家的大多数比赛中显示德国至高无上的优势。

汉斯·斯塔克（Hans Stuck）是上世纪 30 年代和 40 年代最有才华的车手之一，与 Bernd Rosemeyer，Rudolf Caracciola 和 Tazio Nuvolari 等著名车手齐名，他驾驶德国斯图加特品牌奔驰生产的赛车，打破了世界陆地速度纪录。斯塔克获得了戴姆勒-奔驰股份公司董事会主席 Wilhelm Kissel 以及史上最杰出的工程师之一 Ernst Udet 的支持。当时戴姆勒-奔驰的老板是费迪南德 ·保时捷（ Ferdinand Porsche），他后来创立了保时捷。在这种极速挑战中，德国人不得不面对英国人取得的令人难以置信的强劲纪录：1935 年 9 月 3 日，英国车手马尔柯姆·坎贝尔（Malcolm Campbell）驾驶蓝鸟（Blue Bird）战车创下了 484.62 公里的时速 ;1937 年 11 月 19 日，英国车手乔治·艾斯顿（George Eyston）驾驶雷霆

Benz and Auto Union were well ahead of the English and Italian competition. The Silver Arrows, the most impressive Grand Prix cars from before World War II, mirrored the large budget that the National Socialist German Worker’s Party (known as the Nazi Party) awarded to motor racing, so as to demonstrate the German supremacy compared to other nations in the most varied competitions. Hans Stuck, one of the most talented drivers in the ‘30s and ‘40s, alongside names such as Bernd Rosemeyer, Rudolf Caracciola and Tazio Nuvolari, drove the proposal made to the Stuttgart brand to beat the world land speed record. Stuck garnered the support of Wilhelm Kissel, Chairman of the Board of Daimler-Benz 澳门精华 | 2018年 10月- 11月 | 35

Essential AUTO

THE TYP 80 FROM 1939

战车（Thunderbolt）飚出了超过 500 公里/小时的纪录；同年 9 月 23 日，约翰·科布和他的（Railton Special）更胜一筹。英国车手的纪录主要在美国博纳维尔盐湖或 Dayona 海滩上实现。

奔驰的速度情节

奔驰已经有一长串类似的胜利，但在公路上，却还没有太多建树。1938 年 1 月 28 日， Rudolf Caracciola 驾驶梅赛德斯 -奔驰 Silver Arrows 银箭 W125 在 Darmstadt 高速公路上时速达到 432.7 公里/小时。

HANS STUCK, BERND ROSEMEYER AND FERDINAND PORSCHE

36 | OCTOBER- NOVEMBER 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

奔驰内部有些人对汉斯 ·斯塔克颇有抵触，因为他与奔驰最大的竞争对手奥迪的关系非比寻常。其实，当斯塔克向奔驰毛遂自荐时，他在奥迪车队的队友 Rosemeyer 刚刚拿到了欧洲锦标赛冠军，斯塔克被迫寻找一条出路让自己脱颖而出。当时英国人正保持着绝对速度的纪录，斯塔克看到了巨大的机会。汉斯 ·斯塔克在几年前的一次狩猎中偶然遇到了阿道夫·希特勒，在纳粹党中人脉很广，这给了他起初时需要的助力。此外，透过奥迪，他与费迪南德·保时捷的关系非

AG, belonging to Ferdinand Porsche, the future founder of the brand with his name and one of the most – if not the most – brilliant engineers in the history of cars, and of general Ernst Udet. The Germans faced an incredibly strong record from the Brits in this type of challenges: on September 3, 1935, Malcolm Campbell reached 484.62km/h on board the Blue Bird; on November 19, 1937, George Eyston surpassed 500km/h in the Thunderbolt, and on September 23, John Cobb and his Railton Special did even better. The records at Her

Essential AUTO 常好。费迪南德 ·保时捷一直担任梅赛德斯 -奔驰的总工程师到 1928 年，奔驰与保时捷双方都意识到，全新的合作可能会带来伟大的成就。 1936 到 1937 年间，除了 T80 项目，费迪南德 ·保时捷为奔驰量产系列开发一款原型车 KdF，二战后，这款车由大众生产，并改名为 Beetle 甲壳虫。

T80 的诞生

T80，或 Typ 80，是一款具有必要的空气动力学特性的汽车，能够在极高的速度下切割空气，为了提升速度，其外观几乎是平的，并进行了优化。车手长 8 米，有六个车轮，每个车轮直径为 1.17 米。根据项目工程师的计算，该车输出功率可达 3,500 马力，最高时速可达 650 公里/小时。与类似的那些以获得绝对速度为目的的车辆不同，那些车辆是在格兰披治赛车或方程式赛车的底盘基础上开发的，T80 的独特之处在于它是从头开始构思的，而且目的只有一个。费迪南德 ·保时捷负责该项目，奔驰创造了第一辆此类车型，拥有三个车轴，以一台航空引擎提供动力。车前轴与中轴之间的距离为 3.55 米，中轴与后轴之间的距离为 1.28 米。V12 发动机位于中轴前部，以实现理想的重量分配和重心中心，以便车身在时速为 500 公里/小时时保持车辆稳定性。T80 配备螺旋桨中轴和后轴，但由于扭矩高，并不需要变速箱。具有自动功率调节功能的六碟离合器足以让 T80 启动，接着就轮到扭矩的极致发挥了。

Majesty’s service were predominantly executed either at the Bonneville salt lakes or on Dayona Beach, in the US.

THE MERCEDES LINK Mercedes already had a record of this kind in its list of victories, but on public roads, not an absolute record. On January 28, 1938, at the wheel of a Silver Arrows Mercedes-Benz W125 on the Darmstadt highway, Rudolf Caracciola hit 432.7km/h. Hans Stuck had some detractors within the make, as he was very much associated to its biggest rival, Auto Union. In fact, when Stuck proposed the attempt to Mercedes, he did so because Rosemeyer, his team mate at Auto Union at the time, had just become European champion and Stuck was forced to find a new way to stand out. As the English were dominating the segment of absolute speed records, Stuck saw a tremendous opportunity. Hans Stuck had met Adolph Hitler by chance in a hunt some years before, and had good contacts at the Nazi Party, which gave him the initial boost he needed. Besides that, he had an excellent relationship with Ferdinand Porsche through Auto Union. Porsche had already been the chief engineer at Mercedes-Benz until 1928, and both sides had realised that a new collaboration could lead to great things. Between 1936 and 1937, besides the T80 project, Ferdinand Porsche developed a

prototype for a production series car for Mercedes called KdF, which, after the conflict of 1939-1945, was produced by Volkswagen and called the Beetle.

THE BIRTH OF THE T80 The T80, or Typ 80, was a car built to have the necessary aerodynamics to slice through the air at massive speeds, with an almost flattened appearance and optimised for that effect. It was eight metres long with six wheels, each one with a diameter of 1.17m. Packing 3,500 horsepower, Mercedes could, according to the calculations of the engineers behind the project, hit a maximum speed of 650km/h. Unlike similar vehicles, whose purpose was to obtain absolute speed records and which were developed on the chassis of Grand Prix or Formula cars, what made the T80 a bit special was that it was conceived from scratch, with one single purpose. With Ferdinand Porsche heading up the project, Mercedes created its first vehicle of this kind, with three axles and propelled by a plane engine. The distance between the axles was 3.55m between the front and centre axle, and 1.28m between the centre and rear axle. The V12 engine was placed in front of the centre axle for the ideal weight distribution and a centre of gravity that would allow great balance over 500km/h. Both the centre and rear axles were propellers, but the T80 didn’t need a gearbox due to its high torque. The six-disc clutch,

澳门精华 | 2018年 10月- 11月 | 37

Essential AUTO

显然，这些解决方案在当时具有很高的创新性，此类项目的目的不仅要让梅赛德斯-奔驰因为打破纪录而成为美谈，而且还为了展示品牌在技术研发方面的卓绝成就。同飞机一样， T80 的发动机处于悬挂位置，以将正面阻力减到最少并提升空气动力，其风阻系数仅为 0.18 Cd。戴姆勒 -奔驰 DB 603 发动机也是戴姆勒旗下产品，该发动机技术的开发始于 1927 年，由奔驰公司（Benz & Cie.）的 Arthur Berger 指挥该项目，后来被戴姆勒-奔驰公司（Daimler-Benz AG）收购。直到 1945 年二战结束前，用于战斗机的所有奔驰发动机都是在 Berger 发动机的基础上开发的。奔驰当时的能耐了得，装配在飞机上的第一台发动机是 DB 600，配备 V 型排列的 12 个汽缸和化油器喷油器，容量为 33.9 升，每个气缸有 4 个气门，功率高达 1,000 马力。 1930 年，德国政府发布指导方针，命令发动机制造商开发缸内直喷系统，因为化油器在某些空中袭击中被证明过于脆弱且容易出错。奔驰认为 DB 601 是当时最先进的喷射发动机，1937 年，它已经被用在几款飞机上。 DB 601 的后续机型是 DB 605，容量 35.7 升，功率 2,000 马力。奔驰希望更进一步，着手开发更先进的发动机，容量为 44.5 升，但设计缺陷意味着其动力只能维持在 1,500 马力，德国政府不允许将它用在战机上。 T80 就选择了这款被德国政府否定、而晾在一边的发动机。修改了开始出现的错误后，奔驰设法将其动力翻倍，达到 3,500 马力。随着二战的开始，任何与战争没有直接关系的项目全都立刻被取消。奔驰不得不将 DB 603 38 | OCTOBER- NOVEMBER 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

with automatic power adjustment, was enough to get the Mercedes rolling and then the torque would do the rest. Obviously these solutions were highly innovative for that time, and the purpose of this type of projects was to not only place Mercedes on the world’s lips for obtaining the record, but also to showcase the superior technical development of the car make. The engine was placed in a suspended position, just like in a plane, to minimise frontal resistance and enhance the aerodynamics, whose coefficient was just 0.18 Cd. Part of the Daimler family, the Daimler-Benz DB 603 engine was the result of technical development that had begun in 1927 under the command of Arthur Berger at Benz & Cie., later acquired by Daimler-Benz AG. The Berger motors were the basis of all Benz engines used in the warplanes until the end of the conflict in 1945. To get an idea of what Mercedes was able to do at the time, the first engine placed in a plane was the DB 600, with 12 V cylinders and carburettor injectors with a capacity of 33.9 litres, four valves per cylinder and 1,000hp. In 1930, the German government issued guidelines in which it ordered engine constructors to develop direct injection systems, as the carburettors proved to be too fragile and fallible in certain aerial manoeuvres. Mercedes conceived the DB 601 as the most advanced injection engine in its day and,

in 1937, it was already used in several planes. The successor of the DB 601 was the DB 905 which, with 35.7 litres of capacity, packed 2,00hp. Mercedes wanted to go further and began developing an even more advanced engine, with 44.5cc, but a design flaw meant that the power stayed at 1,500hp and the German government didn’t allow it to be used in warplanes. It was this engine, which was set aside, that was chosen for the T80. With the initial errors corrected, Mercedes managed to more than double the power to 3,500hp. With the onset of World War II, any project that wasn’t directly related with the war effort was cancelled almost immediately. So Mercedes had to return the DB 603 engine to the Ministry of Aviation, as every plane engine belonged to the State by decree. The tubular chassis weighed 124.5kg and the body another 132.5kg, while the huge motor added more than 800kg to the whole. The total weight of 2,900kg reflected the dimension of a project that was incredibly ambitious at every level, but the visible innovation was such that the German vehicle weighed on average half that of its rivals. Stuck believed so much in the T80 that the organisation costs for the record attempt were down to him. Mercedes-Benz would pay for the chassis, and the plane constructor Heinkel the body. The two engines provided for the project were ‘donated’ by the Nazi Party.

Essential AUTO

发动机还给航空部，因为按照当时法律，所有的飞机引擎都是国有资产。管状底盘重 124.5 公斤，车身重 132.5 公斤，巨大的发动机又重 800 公斤。总重量为 2,900 公斤的赛车明明显看出无论在任何方面，奔驰都雄心勃勃，创新技术令其车身重量只是同类竞争车型的一半。斯塔克对 T80 有极大的信心，乃至于要自己负担刷新纪录活动的费用。梅赛德斯 -奔驰打算负担底盘费用，飞机制造商 Heinkel 承担车身费用。项目用到的两台发动机则有纳粹党 “ 捐献”。最初的计划是在美国比赛中达到 650 公里 /小时，但在 1938 年中，德国决定关闭一段德绍（Dessau）至比特尔费尔德（Bitterfeld）之间的高速路进行比赛。其实，对于具体的路段当时并没有明确决定，因为奔驰的技术人员认为在高速公路上驾驶危险极大，认为应该去美国进行此挑战。

二战开始后

1939 年 9 月 1 日，德国入侵波兰，拉开第二次世界大战的序幕。两天后，法国和英国正式向德国宣战。T80 项目继续进行了一段时日，10 月 12 日，奔驰在测力计上测试了 T80 底盘，并推断：3,500 马力的动力和 650 公里 /小时的时速都有望达成。但在 1940 年 2 月，德国政府停止参与项目开发，同年 6 月要求奔驰归还发动机，因而也为所有的研发活动划上了句点。对于奔驰而言，本该是至高荣耀的项目成了天方夜谭，T80 也只能陈列在博物馆里。战争结束后，T80 被陈列在 Untertürkheim 的梅赛德斯 -奔驰博物馆中展出，后来在 1986 年，其底盘和车身被拆掉，底盘从永久展览中移走。博物馆管理层现在已决定将它们与 DB 603 发动机的比例模型再次组合，以便向世人展示这款革命性车辆的精湛技术。至于斯坦克从未直接面对过的英国对手约翰·科布，他在战争期间担任皇家空军

飞行员，并在 1947 年，驾驶着 Railton Mobil Special 再次夺回了陆地速度纪录，达到 634.39 公里/小时，比奔驰约 10 年前极其可能达到（却因二战爆发停止了研发计划）的速度慢了超过 15 公里/小时。从那以后，人类的聪明才智和追求及实现极速的愿望从未停止过，再也没有受到世界大战的限制。

如今的速度纪录

如今，陆地速度纪录有精确的规则，并受到全球最大的汽车赛事权威机构国际汽联（国际汽车联合会）的监管，法国人 Jean Todt 担任国际汽联主席。为了保证纪录有效，要求汽车要在一个小时内进行正反方向两次行驶，且新纪录必须要超过前纪录至少 1%。纪录数字是正反两次行驶速度的平均值。由官方机构验证的第一个陆地速度纪录于 1898 年 12 月 18 日由 Gaston de Chasseloup-Laubat 在法国 Achéres 驾驶电动车 Jeantaud Duc 上创下，纪录时速为 63.15 公里/ 小时。最后一次创造陆地速度纪录的日期是 1997 年 10 月 15 日，当时英国皇家空军指挥官安迪·格林（Andy Green）在美国的黑岩沙漠中驾驶 Thrust SSC，其速度超越了声速。两台劳斯莱斯斯派（Spey）发动机——用于 F-4 幽灵 II 喷气式战斗机（ F-4 Phantom II Jet Fighter）的——它们输出动力高达 110,000 马力，平均速度为 1227.985 公里/小时。有趣的是，安迪·格林每秒燃烧 18 升燃料，或者每 100 公里燃烧 550 升燃料。令人难以置信的是，Thrust SSC 团队为自己设定了更大的挑战，预计将在未来十年实现：以高出 1000 英里 /小时或 1690 公里 / 小时的纪录碾压 1997 年的陆地速度纪录。全球项目 Bloodhound SSC 团队由理查 ·诺贝尔（Richard Noble）和安迪·格林领导，其使命是以最振奋人心的方式向年轻人展示科技、工程学及数学的迷人之处，也是为人类树立非凡的陆地速度纪录。

The initial plan was for the race in pursuit of the 650km/h to be done in the US, but in mid-1938, the German State decided to prepare a specific section of the highway between Dessau and Bitterfeld for that effect. In reality, there wasn’t a definite decision in regards to the location, as the German brand’s technicians thought it was very risky to drive on the highway and argued that it be done on the other side of the Atlantic.

THE ONSET OF WORLD WAR II On September 1, 1939, Germany invaded Poland, marking the first day of the beginning of World War II. Two days later, France and the United Kingdom officially declared war on the Germans. The T80 project kept going for some time and, on October 12, Mercedes tested the chassis on the dynamometer and concluded that both the 3,500hp and the 650km/h top speed were possible. However, in February 1940, the State ended its participation in the project, and in June of that same year demanded the return of the engines and subsequent termination of all activities. What could have been the crowning glory for the three-pointed star make ended up being a mere idea, and the T80 never went beyond a museum piece. After the war, it was displayed at the Mercedes museum in Untertürkheim, with the chassis and the body later separated in 1986 and the chassis removed from the permanent exhibit. The museum management has now decided that they should be brought together again, along with a scale model of the DB 603 engine so that the fabulous technology of this revolutionary vehicle is on display for all to see. As for the Brit John Cobb, who Stuck never got to rival, he served as a Royal Air Force pilot during the war, and in 1947, he reclaimed the 澳门精华 | 2018年 10月- 11月 | 39

ANDY GREEN AND THE BLOODHOUND SSC

全球掀起追速狂潮

“寻血猎犬”（Bloodhound SSC）是一款超音速汽车，融合汽车工程与航空工程科技，前端采用单壳式碳纤维底盘，有如赛车，后端采用金属结构建造，外板放置在金属结构上，仿若飞机。动力组合包括喷气式发动机和火箭发动机，共同产生地上 135,000 马力的动力。如果把所有参与这款车的设计和制造的人的劳动量加总，相当于创造 3500 个组件和 22,500 个铆钉的 110 多年工作量。 “寻血猎犬 ”长 13.470 米，高 3 米，含燃料总重 7,786 千克。其性能很难掌握：在 55 秒内可达到最高时速 1,690 公里 /小时，即在起步后的第二分钟，这架汽车飞机将以每秒 469 米的速度行驶。其惊人数据还包括：喷气发动机每三秒钟便需要一个相当于一间中型房屋的进气口;首次达到 500 公里的时速用时 38 秒，但从时速 500 公里提升到 1000 公里，“寻血猎犬 ” 只需要 17 秒;转速 10,220rpm，前轮上 50,000G 的地心引力会使一块方糖的重量与两个成年男子的相同;前轮在这种旋转速度下转弯，意味着火箭装置内部的温度是 3000 摄氏度，或者说是火山爆发温度的两倍。至于其地位，还有待定义。首次成功进行了时速 1,000 英里/小时的测试后，Bloodhound SSC 将于 2019 年前往南非的 Hakskeen Pan 沙漠，将时速再提高 500 英里/小时，并获得有关空气动力学、车轮和制动方面的具体数据。所以一切都还没有定论。自 2008 年项目成立以来，“寻血猎犬 ”项目不仅赢得了汽车界的支持，还获得了全球成千上万的学校和 40 | OCTOBER- NOVEMBER 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

land speed record once more aboard the Railton Mobil Special, hitting 634.39km/h, over 15km/h less than what Mercedes would have potentially been able to do almost a decade earlier. Since then, mankind’s ingenuity and the search for the adrenaline of speed have never stopped being a reality, and were never again limited by a world war.

SPEEDING AHEAD TODAY Today, the land speed record has precise rules and is regulated by the FIA, the Federation Internationale de l'Automobile, presided over by Frenchman Jean Todt and the maximum authority for all four-wheel competitions the world over. For the record to be validated, it requires two runs in opposite directions within an hour and the new mark must exceed the previous one by at least 1%. The record is the average of the two runs, or passes. The first land speed record validated by official authorities took place on December 18, 1898 by Gaston de Chasseloup-Laubat at the wheel of a Jeantaud Duc, a rudimentary electric vehicle, in Achéres, France, registering a mark of 63.15km/h. The last record is dated October 15, 1997, when the Royal Air Force commander Andy Green took the Thrust SSC beyond the speed of sound, on the Black Rock desert in the US. The two Rolls-Royce Spey engines – used in the F-4 Phantom II Jet Fighter – and their

110,000hp reached an average speed of 1227.985km/h. As a point of interest, Andy Green burnt fuel at a speed of over 18 litres per second, or 550 litres for every 100km. Incredibly, the team involved in the Thrust SSC set an even bigger challenge for itself, which should be materialised sometime in the next decade: to pulverise the record achieved in 1997 by surpassing 1000 miles per hour, or 1690km/h. Led by Richard Noble and Andy Green, the Bloodhound SSC is a global project whose mission is to show younger generations the appeal of science, technology, engineering and mathematics in the most exciting possible way, which is achieving a historical land-speed milestone for mankind.

THE GLOBAL PURSUIT FOR SPEED The Bloodhound SSC is a supersonic car that blends car engineering solutions with aeronautical engineering – the front end is built on a monocoque carbon fibre chassis, like a race car, while the rear end is developed on a metallic structure on which the outside panels are placed, like in a plane. The powertrain comprises a jet engine and a rocket that, together, will produce something in the region of 135,000hp on the ground. If you put together all the people involved in designing this car, it totals more than 110 years of work creating 3,500 pieces and 22,500 rivets. The Bloodhound SSC is 13.470 metres long, three metres

学生的支持。吉利、捷豹、嘉实多（Castrol）和劳力士等各类品牌纷纷与该项目合作，并积极提升其社会责任，使该项目在各个层面的都具有开创性意义。在马尔柯姆 ·坎贝尔、约翰 ·科布甚至汉斯·斯塔克梦想着在日益复杂的机器中追逐更快的速度近 100 年后，世界对陆地速度纪录的兴趣仍然不减当年，且格外踊跃，并且涉及到世界上越来越多的人。与 20 世纪 30 年代和 40 年代的情况相反，这不再是国家或品牌之间的竞争，而是全球性的共同努力，如果实现，将标志着科学界和人类自我超越能力的胜利。 1931 年，著名英国作家赫胥黎（Aldous Huxley）写道，速度是唯一真正的现代感觉。他也承认他从未体验过超过 130 公里 /小时（80 英里 /小时）的速度，而 320 公里 /小时（200 英里 /小时）一定是极大的折磨。如果赫胥黎知道，仅仅 10 年后，奔驰能够将这一折磨加倍，或者在遥远的未来，某个人不只将这个数据翻倍，他又会说什么？其实并没有关系：赫胥黎是对的，如今依然如此。人类实现的每个时速都是一种全新的感觉，对新鲜体验的追求才使我们想要克服实现它过程中遇到的每一个障碍。如今正争取实现的目标速度是声速的 1.4 倍即 Mach 1.4。布加迪威龙超跑（Bugatti Veyron Super Sport）速度比世界上最快的量产车系列快 4 倍。可能是折磨，更可能是疯狂。但到这成为现实那天，谁不会紧盯着屏幕看看我们人类到底能做出怎样的壮举？ 쐽

high and, with fuel weighs 7,786kg. The performances are difficult to grasp: a top speed of 1,690km/h, reached in 55 seconds, i.e. in the second minute, this plane disguised as a car will be travelling 469 metres per second. The numbers don’t stop here: the jet engine needs an air intake that is equivalent to a medium-sized house every three seconds; the first 500km/h take 38 seconds to reach, but to go from 500km/h to 1,000km/h, the Bloodhound needs just 17 seconds; the 10,220rpm, 50,000G of pressure on the front wheel would make a sugar cube weigh the same as two grown men; for the front wheel to turn at that rotation, it means that the temperature inside the rocket is 3,000 degrees centigrade, or double that of a volcanic eruption. As for the place, it is yet to be defined. After doing the first tests at 200,000mph successfully, in 2019, the Bloodhound SSC will travel to Hakskeen Pan, South Africa, to raise the bar to 500mph and have concrete data on aerodynamics, wheels and brakes. From there, nothing is defined. Since its beginnings in 2008, the Bloodhound SSC project has won over the automobile community, but also thousands of schools and students the world over. Brands as diverse as Geely and Jaguar, Castrol and Rolex have teamed up with the project and are promoting its social responsibility aspect, which makes this a pioneering initiative at every level. Almost 100 years after Malcolm Campbell,

John Cobb and even Hans Stuck dreamt of the experience of travelling faster in increasingly complex machines, the interest in the world land speed record is alive and well, and involving more and more people across the world. Contrary to what was happening in the 1930s and ‘40s, this is no longer a competition between countries or brands, but rather a global effort that, if achieved, will be a victory for the science community and for the ability of selftranscendence of mankind. In 1931, Aldous Huxley wrote that speed was the only truly modern sensation. The famous English writer also confessed that he had never travelled faster than 130km/h (80mph) and that 320km/h (200mph) must be torture. What would Huxley have said knowing that just 10 years later, Mercedes would be able to double that torture, or that someone in the distant future would more than double that same milestone? It doesn’t matter: Huxley was right and it remains true today. Every km/h achieved by Man is a new sensation, and the pursuit for that novelty is what leads us to want to overcome each and every obstacle to achieve it. The goal on the table is 1.4 times the speed of sound. Mach 1.4. Four times faster than the fastest production series car in the world, the Bugatti Veyron Super Sport. Torture? Perhaps. Madness? Most likely. But who isn’t going to be glued to their screens on that day just to see what we are capable of? 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 10月- 11月 | 41

Essential BRAND

OLIVIER CASSEGRAIN, SOPHIE DELAFONTAINE, PHILIPPE AND JEANCASSEGRAIN

珑骧：拥有 70 年历史的法国品牌 Longchamp: A French brand spanning 70 years 42 | OCTOBER- NOVEMBER 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential BRAND

从战后的巴黎到今天，珑骧（Longchamp）一直都是由家族经营的企业。经过第三代接班人的精心打造，如今的珑骧既继承了创始人尚 · 卡仕格兰的理念，又能贴合时下风潮，放眼未来 From post-war Paris to modern times Longchamp continues to be a family-run business. Now in the hands of the third generation it has successfully preserved the legacy of its founder Jean Cassegrain by making it relevant in the present with a vision for the future 文/by ADRIANA CLARO

提

到珑骧，脑海中定必闪现品牌著名的女式行李箱、旅行袋和配饰，正是这些配饰，令世界各地众多女性将这个法国品牌视为典雅和卓越品质的典范。但讽刺的是，若追本溯源，这个时尚品牌却源于于一件跟女人毫无关系的配件——烟斗，这往往会令不了解品牌历史的人很惊讶。 1948 年，“光之城”巴黎刚经历完战争，当地人民正在恢复正常生活，而美军仍在刚解放不久的林荫大道上巡逻，这时，尚·卡仕格兰（Jean Cassegrain）开始接手经营一间小型烟草用品商店。商店位于巴黎市中心，主要顾客是美军，所以生意兴旺。吸烟仍被看作一种可敬的陋习，而烟草行业也在卖力推广。随着冲突结束，美国人撤出巴黎，商店需要新的顾客，便将其锁定为那些在优雅的街道上漫步的巴黎人以及日渐增长的来访游客和外地商人。

于是，尚·卡仕格兰想到制造一种特别的烟斗，外层是小牛皮，也有用鳄鱼皮或蜥蝪皮等异国奇特动物的皮料作包覆，让产品有种原始、细腻的质感。尚·卡仕格兰的儿子菲利普（Philippe）生于 1937 年。父亲在这个法国首都的中心区创业时，菲利普已经 11 岁了，他到今天还记得他们的第一间精品店：“那是在法布·普瓦索尼（Faubourg Poissonnière），在第二区里面，当时那是个繁忙的商业区。从共和国广场到玛德莲，那是个很大的跨越。那时还没有香榭丽舍大道。” 尚 ·卡仕格兰看到著名德国女演员兼歌手玛琳·黛德丽的照片，发现她手上拿着烟嘴，便趁机制作出一套女性专用的迷人配饰，原料是鳄鱼皮和蜥蝪皮。卡仕格兰的身边围绕着一流的工匠，他在 1948 年的巴黎综合商品展上首次展出自己的系列产品。儿子菲利

ne thing is certain, whenever Longchamp is mentioned famous ladies suitcases and travelling bags spring to mind as well as the accessories that have made this French brand a benchmark of elegance and quality for a vast number of women worldwide. Moreover, those that don’t know the history of this fashion house are often surprised to ironically discover that it all began with an accessory that has absolutely nothing to do with women - the pipe! It was in 1948 in a Paris that was just getting over the war, at a time when the French were recovering their lives and US soldiers still patrolled the boulevards of the City of Light that had so recently been liberated that Jean Cassegrain took the helm of a small tobacconist and smoking accessories shop. 澳门精华 | 2018年 10月- 11月 | 43

LONGCHAMPS FIRST BOUTIQUE IN ORLY AIRPORT PARIS

普卡回忆道：“摊位上的父亲对来自世界各地的客户都表示欢迎，他很热衷了解行业的潮流！要知道，那年可是电视开始触及大众的时候，这点很重要，一个很大的变革。” 预计品牌即将迎来增长的尚 ·卡仕格兰投资在塞格雷设立工作坊，开始制作新的配饰。主打应用艺术并专注于新奇玩意，他投入时间和精力确保珑骧品牌成为创新的代名词，同时又代表着优雅与经典。插画家图兰 ·色瓦勒劳则根据这些理念，为品牌创作了标志。品牌与巴黎布洛涅林苑赛马场（Hippodrome de Longchamp）同名，因而画家受一幅 19 世纪骑手版画启发，创造出品牌沿用至今的知名标志。

AUDREY HEPBURN AND MEL FERRER

44 | OCTOBER- NOVEMBER 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Located in the centre of Paris, the business was going great guns thanks to the US soldiers that were its main customers. Tobacco was still seen as a respectable vice and the tobacco industry pulled considerable weight. With the end of the conflict and when the Americans pulled out of the city there was a need to find a new clientèle made up of the Parisians that strolled through the elegant streets of the city and the growing number of tourists and foreign businessmen that travelled there. So, Jean Cassegrain had the idea to create a pipe which had the particular feature of being covered in calfskin, but also with more exotic species like

MARLENE DIETRICH

crocodile or lizard which gave it an original and refined touch. Born in 1937, Philippe, son of Jean Cassegrain, was 11 years old when his father founded the business in the heart of the French capital and still remembers the first boutique. “It was in Faubourg Poissonnière, in the second district, which was then a busy commercial area. It was a big step forward, from Place de la République to the Madeleine. The ChampsÉlysées hardly existed.” When Marléne Dietrich, the famous German actress and singer was photographed with her cigarette holder, Cassegrain took the

RAY CHARLES AND JOHNNY HALLIDAY

Essential BRAND

与时俱进的尚 ·卡仕格兰见到了交通的发展以及不断涌现的新技术，并从中发现了将珑骧品牌出口至全世界的机会。年仅 16 岁的菲利普被父亲尚 ·卡仕格兰邀请管理公司的国际关系部，同年他踏上了首趟商业差旅前往非洲。次年，17 岁的菲利普再次飞越大西洋并来到亚洲，前往香港、新加坡和马来西亚这几个烟草消费重镇开拓市场。菲利普的首个目标是与父亲的业务联系人合作，为品牌开设新店，以便实现全球扩张。从这个角度看，美国便显然是下一个市场。对希望建立卓越品牌形象的任何企业而言，小心耕耘品牌的销售点网络至关重要。菲利普需要拜访及感谢所有销售点，在他前往纽约之前，他的父亲亦不止一次提醒他要记得遵守严格的指引。到了 50 年代初，珑骧的足迹已经遍及全球，并成为在新加坡、香港和日本销售的首个欧洲品牌。同样在上世纪 50 年代，人称“Joie de Vivre” （生活的乐趣）的法式生活方式亦开始在全球流行起来。世人开始重燃对光之城巴黎的兴趣，当战争阴影褪去，这个象征着想像、美与雅致的城市再度成为人们向往的地方，与此同时，世界亦进入了民航发展的黄金年代。正如后来人们所知，随着民航业的诞生和发展，尚 ·卡仕格兰亦凭藉其远见卓识为珑骧抓住了巨大的发展潜力。品牌通过制作皮质覆盖的烟斗而掌握了丰富的皮革制作经验，珑骧开始将这些经验应用在制作钱包和护照夹等少量男士用品上，而不久后更开始制作手提箱和行李箱。巴黎 -奥利机场南候机楼由建筑师亨利 ·维卡里奥特（Henri Vicariot）设计，设计初衷是打造一个具有功能性与良好采光的现代化空间，体现当年战后社会对经济充满信心以及欣欣向荣的乐观情绪。候机楼里例如 Salle de Visite 等现代化的巴黎式接待厅迅速成为了巴黎的名片，以及法式奢华的卓越示范。当时，候机楼甚至超越了艾菲尔铁塔，成为巴黎最热门的景点。这里既有大量普通旅客和游客行走，又有奥黛丽·赫本、葛丽泰 ·嘉宝、罗密·施奈德等著名演员和灵魂歌王雷·查尔斯等音乐家，选择在这个启用不久的候机楼接受采访。正是此时，尚·卡仕格兰决定在此开设店铺。

当时，这是一个极其大胆的举措，同时亦向竞争对手和顾客表明珑骧对自己的潜力充满信心。 “除了我父亲，没有其他皮革品牌会在奥利机场租下店铺销售空空如也的行李箱。” 但是，如果要说是什么给了尚·卡仕格兰充足信心，那肯定是他全情投入的儿子们，尤其是全身心投入到这个项目中的菲利普，一位曾经目睹当时情景的人回忆道：“早上 7 点，你就能见到菲利普在店铺销售产品，而下午他就会出现在办公室工作。”机场的客户基本上是等飞机的乘客，而他们通常是有着来回机票的飞行常客，这样的顾客群体让菲利普有机会与他们建立一个互相信任的关系。“有些人会向我购买准备带回家的产品。我的工作是向顾客提供他们所需，但我并非时时都能满足他们的需求，比如我不可能随时都备有一个鳄鱼皮钱包。但总体而言，项目发展顺畅。我们销售的是当时非常时髦和摩登的手袋款式！我们开创了业界先河。” 到了七十年代，随着业务逐步扩张，珑骧开始主攻另一个市场，并于 1971 年推出了第一款女士手袋——为“洗漱包”增添了一个把手和顶部的两个覆盖。1978 年，珑骧推出首

opportunity to create a complete range of attractive accessories for women too. Crocodile and lizard skin were the raw materials. Surrounded by the best craftsmen, he presented his first collection on 1 May 1948 at the Paris Fair. Philippe Cassegrain recalls: “My father welcomed clients from all over the world at his stand, eager to discover what was in fashion in this area! It is important to remember that this was the year in which television reached the general public - a huge revolution.” Anticipating the brand’s growth, Jean Cassegrain invested in setting up workshops in Segré where he began producing new accessories. Focusing on applied arts, and concentrating on novelties, he invested time and effort into making sure that the Longchamp brand was synonymous with innovation and at the same time with elegance and timelessness. It was based on these assumptions that he asked Turenne Chevallereau to come up with the logo. Christened with the same name as the hippodrome in the Bois de Bologne, Paris, crowned with an image inspired by a 19th century engraving of a mounted jockey on a galloping horse, he created what today is still the insignia of the house. Keeping up with progress, namely the development of transport and the appearance of innovative technology, Jean Cassegrain saw an opportunity in these trends to export the Longchamp brand all over the world. At 16, Philippe was invited by his father to take charge of the company’s international relations department. The first commercial sounding out trip that same year led him to Africa. The following year, aged 17, he took another transatlantic voyage to Asia visiting Hong Kong, Singapore and Malaysia, where tobacco had a huge customer base. His first goal was to work his father’s contacts and open new doors for the brand that aimed to conquer the world. Within this perspective the obvious next step was the United States. Paying careful attention to the brand’s network of points-of-sale was absolutely crucial 澳门精华 | 2018年 10月- 11月 | 45

个女士手袋系列 — — LM 系列。同年，珑骧不再销售烟草相关产品，品牌方向完全转至旅行箱包和女士手袋领域。 1983 年，尚·卡仕格兰的儿子菲利普成为珑骧（Longchamp）首席执行官，而他的妻子米雪（Michéle）接管了品牌精品店的运营。 1991 年，菲利普和米雪的长子尚（Jean）也加入家族企业。后来，他们的女儿苏菲•迪拿方廷（Sophie Delafontaine）获委任为品牌的艺术总监。 1993 年见证了珑骧其中一个明星产品之推出：Le Pliage 折叠手袋成为珑骧的经典标志性产品之一，既是有史以来最畅销的一款手袋，也是世界上最著名的手袋款之一。这款由菲利普·卡仕格兰设计的天才之作，使珑骧更名声大噪。今天，创始人尚 ·卡仕格兰的孙子小尚 ·卡仕格兰是公司的首席执行官。“今天，珑骧就像它成立时一样，融合了不断演化的奢华、结构紧密的国际分销网络和各式各样产品，包括钱包、手袋、行李箱、鞋类和眼镜。” 作为一家营业额约为 10 亿英镑、在 100 个国家拥有店铺、在全球拥有 3,000 多名员工之公司的掌舵人，尚·卡仕格兰继续致力实现品牌创始人即其祖父的愿景。“我的祖父期望全球扩张成为现实，而这已成真。（珑骧）营业额翻了三番，我们的国际销售额以双倍增长，我们在全球开设了 12 个新分销点和超过 120 个销售点，所有这些都是为了让品牌更接近客户。” 2003 年，品牌作为业内为数不多的企业之一率先推行个性化在线销售，此举使其业务 46 | OCTOBER- NOVEMBER 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

for anyone wanting to achieve an image of brand excellence. All should be visited and complimented, more than once as his father reminded him with very strict instructions before Phillipe set out for New York. At the start of the 50s, Longchamp was already present on all the continents and was one of the first European brands to be sold in Singapore, Hong Kong and Japan. It would also be in the 1950s that the French lifestyle, the so-called “joie de vivre” gained new ground becoming popular worldwide. This renewed interest in the City of Light, its hold on the imagination, synonymous with beauty and sophistication that was interrupted by the black shadow of the war took place at the same time as a revolution in air transport which enjoyed their golden era. It would be through the birth of civil aviation as we know it today that the visionary spirit of Jean Cassegrain would grasp the enormous potential for his company. The experience acquired in handling leather that were used to cover pipes was now extended to a small range of gentleman’s products like wallets and passport holders which shortly after would join suitcases and travel luggage. Orly airport’s south terminal was designed by the architect Henri Vicariot to be a functional and light space synonymous with modernity and the feeling of economic optimism and prosperity that characterised the post-war period. The

modern Paris reception lounges such as the Salle de Visite quickly became an ex-libris in Paris and a privileged showcase for French luxury. At this time is was the most visited place in Paris, even overtaking the Eiffel Tower. It was at this airport reception room used both by regular travellers and tourists and film stars like Audrey Hepburn, Greta Garbo, Romy Schneider and Ray Charles who chose the recently inaugurated terminal as the place for their interviews, that Jean Cassegrain decided to open a shop. It was at the time a decision that at the very least was bold and made it clear to the competition and customers how much the fashion house believed in its potential. “No other seller of leather articles would have paid a rent to sell empty suitcases at Orly, except my father.” But if there was one thing that Jean trusted in, it was the commitment of his sons, particularly Phillipe who dedicated his heart and soul to the project, as a witness recalls: “At seven in the morning he was already selling articles and in the afternoon he was in the office.” Doing business with passengers waiting for their flights, often seasonal travellers with return tickets enabled him to build a relationship based on trust with the customer. “Some asked me for articles to take on the return journey home. My job was to supply them with what they wanted but I didn’t always have what they

Essential BRAND

得到拓张。尽管如此，珑骧仍然保持自己的主要特色。“家庭精神，璀璨巴黎，卓绝的皮革用料以及应用艺术，统统已经植根于我们的历史。”即便如此，为了守护品牌的不朽技艺，2011 年珑骧开设工作室-学校，教授学员用于每一件珑骧产品的制作工艺。 2006 年，品牌首次亮相时尚界，推出首个成衣系列。由珑骧创意总监苏菲·迪拿方廷操刀设计的多个系列，随着时间的推移而声名鹊起，今年首次在纽约时装周上展示。保持传统与革新之间的平衡，使珑骧能够停留在波峰。由尚·卡仕格兰于 2016 年构思的“Artwalk” （艺术漫步）概念，更能证明品牌的与时并进。为了将艺术融入所有不同类型产品，珑骧携手艺术家 Ryan McGinness 一同开启 “Artwalk”（艺术漫步）项目。在位于巴黎圣多诺黑街的珑骧历史门店进行翻修时，Ryan 曾为门店门面覆以生动的艺术装饰作品。第二年，珑骧与德国艺术家 Franz Ackerman 合作，让 Franz 设计及打造上海新店。今年，在在建中的纽约第五大道的珑骧新旗舰店，艺术家 Remed 以其作品装饰店面外墙。“这些项目将当代艺术家与独特的城市空间连结起来。这种融汇创新和创意的能力是我们公司专业技术的核心所在。” 尚·卡仕格兰解释说。从创建品牌到维系发展 70 年，珑骧跨过了一段漫长而坎坷的道路。它不仅仅是一门生意，也代表着一个家族的旅程。不忘品牌创始人为国际客户创造高品质产品的初心，走过七十载后，珑骧继续创新，并以竭诚努力和坚持不懈向世人证明，一切皆有可能。쐽

asked me for at hand, such as a wallet in crocodile for example. But things went very well overall. We were selling bags which were really stylish and modern for the time! We were the first to do that.” In the 70s, with the gradual expansion of the business, Longchamp began to concentrate on another market and in 1971 launched its first ladies handbag which recreated the “necessaire” adding a handle and two top flaps. In 1978 it introduced the LM Line, the brand’s first ladies handbag line. That same year the tobacco products were dropped from the brand catalogue and the company focus turned completely to travel bags and ladies handbags. In 1983, Jean Cassegrain’s son become the CEO of Longchamp while his wife Michéle took over the running of the firm’s boutiques. In 1991, Philippe and Michéle’s eldest son Jean also joined the business. Later, their daughter Sophie Delafontaine, was put in charge of the artistic direction of the company. 1993 would mark the launch of one of the house’s star products. The Le Pliage handbag would become one of the symbols of Longchamp and one of the biggest selling handbags ever and one of the most famous in the world. A touch of genius from Philippe Cassegrain which would contribute to making the brand even more famous. Today the founder’s grandson Jean Cassegrain is the company CEO. “Today, Longchamp, like it did when it was founded, incorporates luxury in movement with a highly structured international distribution network and variety of products that includes wallets, handbags, luggage, footwear and glasses.” In charge of a company whose business turnover is around £1Bn with shops in 100 countries and employing over 3,000 worldwide, Jean Cassegrain continues committed to the vision of the brand’s founder. “My grandfather expected that global expansion would become a reality and that is what happened. Business turnover has tripled and our international sales have doubled, we’ve opened 12 new distribution points all over the world and over 120 points-of-sale, all to bring the brand closer to our customers.” The business got even larger when the brand was one of the first to do personalised on-line sales in 2003. Nevertheless, its main characteristics were maintained. “The family spirit, the splendour of Paris, exceptional leathers and applied arts already rooted in our history.” However, it was to preserve the brand’s savoir faire that in 2011 workshop-schools were set up to teach the art associated with the manufacture of each Longchamp piece. Also in 2006 the brand made its debut in the fashion world by launching its first ready-towear line. With the signature of the brand’s creative director Sophie Delafontaine, the

collections have gained fame over time and this year were featured at New York Fashion Week for the first time. It is in the balance between tradition and evolution that Longchamp has been able to remain on the crest of the wave. The “Artwalk” concept, developed by Jean Cassegrain in 2016, is yet more proof that the house has not stopped in time. Aiming to integrate art in all of its segments, the brand began this project with the artist Ryan McGinness who designed the historic brand’s temporary façade cover at SaintHonoré in Paris while it was being renovated. The following year saw a collaboration with the German artist Franz Ackerman for the design and building of its Shanghai store. This year, the artist Remed decorated the façade of Longchamp’s new flagship store on 5th Avenue, New York when it was being built. “These projects link contemporary artists with exceptional urban spaces. This capacity to unite innovation and creativity is at the core of our company’s know-how”, Jean Cassegrain explains. Creating a brand and maintaining it for 70 years has been a long road full of ups and downs. More than a business, it represents a family’s journey. Faithful to the initial goal of creating a high quality product for an international clientèle, after seven decades Longchamp continues to innovate and demonstrate that with dedication and persistence, anything is possible. 쐽

澳门精华 | 2018年 10月- 11月 | 47

Essential FRAGRANCES

畅享自我发现之旅 The pleasure of discovery 路易威登推出的首个男士香氛系列对不为自己设限的现代男人而言，是一场精致而复杂的嗅觉探险 The first men’s fragrance line from Louis Vuitton is a sophisticated olfactory expedition for a modern man with no frontiers 文/by CÁTIA MATOS

正

当无性别香水在市场上越来越火的时候，路易威登（Louis Vuitton）却反其道而行，推出了男士香水系列，共包含五款香水。旅行、探险和运动等概念向来是路易威登世界的支柱，也是品牌不断采用的宣传语汇，当然也适用于抽象的香水制作，这正是品牌御用调香大师 Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud 开启其寻香之旅的起点。在此之前，Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud 一直只为品牌打造女性香水。“这几款香水，是男女都爱闻的男人气味，”Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud 表示。经验丰富的 Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud 从 2012 年起开始掌管路易威登香水研发，他解释道：随着男性市场的持续增长，“男性正变得越来越优雅精致。从当今男性时装中，我们看到了前所未有的自由，这毫不奇怪。“如今，男人敢穿色彩鲜艳、设计大胆的服装，不那么经典，但时髦依旧。服装和配饰越来越有创 48 | OCTOBER- NOVEMBER 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

意。我认为是时候让男士香水也来加入这一潮流了。和时装一样，男性香水也在演变。” 尽管这个系列的创作意念依然建基于经典的阳刚之气，Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud 还是弃用男性香水通常具有的清新洁净的刻板香气——那会让人联想到攻无不克战无不胜的老派男性形象。然而这次他希望强调男性感性和富有情感的一面。出于以上种种原因，甚至从香水本身的角度来看，这些都是真正的香水，其香气在女性香水中更常见，不用说，这些香水并非单纯的 “古龙水”。它们宛如情绪的过山车，旨在深入发掘每个人个性中更深层次的一面，并希望唤起每个人的独特气味回忆。原因正如 Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud 所说，对香气的体味因人而异。“如果你小时候对玫瑰或香草有过不愉快的体验，你就不太可能会喜欢它们。人们在日本或中国闻茉莉花香时的感觉，和置身法国的人闻到的茉莉花香是不一样的。”

t a time when genderless perfumes are gaining more and more ground on the market, Louis Vuitton has done the opposite by launching a collection comprising five fragrances exclusively for men. Concepts such as travel, discovery and movement, pillars of the Louis Vuitton world, and all its endless metaphorical load, so conducive to the abstract approach of perfumery, were the starting point for an olfactory expedition carried out by Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud, the master perfumer who up until now had only created women’s perfumes for the French house. “These are perfumes that both women and men are going to love to smell on a man,” clarifies Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud. With the male market growing consistently at the moment, the experienced maitre parfumeur, responsible for Louis Vuitton fragrances

Essential FRAGRANCES

these are true perfumes, something more common in female scents, needless to say that these fragrances are much more than mere “colognes”. They are a rollercoaster of emotions aimed at the deeper side of each personality and which look to appeal to the olfactory memory of each one. This is because, as Jacques CavallierBelletrud says, the scents are different for everyone. “If you had a bad experience with roses or vanilla when you were small, it’s unlikely you will like them. When someone smells jasmine in Japan or in China, they won’t smell the same thing as someone in France.” The five fragrances – L'Immensité, Nouveau Monde, Orage, Sur la Route and Au Hasard –, which arrive in bold but elegant colourful bottles and remind us of old-fashioned pharmacy bottles but with the unmistakable Louis Vuitton insignia on the lid, stay loyal to the house’s DNA, embodying luxury, sophistication, craftsmanship and travel. The ingredients, from Indian sandalwood to Peruvian balsam, from Mayan chocolate from Ecuador to vetiver from Java, blend together subtly, expressing exotic destinations and the marvellous pleasure of discovery. “I wanted to pay tribute to the adventurous man on a journey of self-discovery. The aim was to compose fragrances that would capture the energy of those unforgettable moments and making them timeless (...) At Louis Vuitton, our goal is to provide pleasure to our clients. I want people to have pleasure in wearing something exceptional. A Louis Vuitton perfume should be recognised in the street. Not because it is powerful, but because it is good. For me, that is the definition of luxury,” concludes the perfumer. 쐽

路易威登男士香水系列五款香水分别是： L’Immensité 无限、Nouveau Monde 新域、Orage 雷暴、Sur la Route 逍遥及 Au Hasard 偶然。香水瓶的色彩热烈而优雅，让人想起旧式药瓶，但瓶盖上的 LV 标志却格外醒目耀眼，完美忠实于品牌 DNA，洋溢着奢华、雅致，并表现出旅行探索精神和卓绝的工艺。从印度檀香到秘鲁香脂，从厄瓜多尔的玛雅朱古力到爪哇岛的香根草，各种香料巧妙融合在一起，洋溢着异国风情和探险的奇妙乐趣。“我想向在自我发现之旅中探险的男士致敬。我的目标是打造出的香水，能够捕捉到难忘时刻的能量，并且把这些美妙时光化为永恒（……）路易威登的终极目标是为客户提供快乐享受。我希望人们喷洒了非凡独特的香水后，感到愉悦。走在大街上，LV 香水应该格外出众，让人闻香即知。并不是因为它气味浓烈，而是因为它无与伦比。对我而言，这就是奢华的定义，”LV 调香大师最后说道。 쐽

since 2012, explains: “Men are becoming more sophisticated.” And it’s no surprise that, looking at men’s fashion today, we see a freedom that didn’t exist before. “Nowadays, men are daring to wear colourful and bolder clothes, less classic but still chic. Clothes and accessories are increasingly creative. I think it is time for men’s perfumes to share this trend. Perfumery for men is evolving, just like fashion.” Although the concepts on which the creation of this collection is based are inseparable from a certain idea of classic masculinity, Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud avoided the usual clean and fresh stereotypes evoking oldfashioned notions of a victorious and invincible man, preferring instead to focus on sensitivity and emotions. For all these reasons, along with the fact that, even from a concentration point of view 澳门精华 | 2018年 10月- 11月 | 49

Essential CAR

勃发生机

王者回归

Alive and kicking

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Essential CAR

阿尔派荣耀归来，势要征服新生代车迷，并让那些从未遗忘过阿尔派的车迷们重圆梦想 The Alpine is back to conquer a new generation of driving lovers and materialise the dreams of those who have never forgotten the Dieppe brand 文/by GUILHERME MARQUES

据

说当今世界，人们视驾车为纯粹享受的激情正在迅速消退，可偏偏有人有勇气再为一个汽车品牌注入新生，而该品牌存在于世的唯一原因就是：驰骋。这个品牌就是诞生于 63 年前的阿尔派（ Alpine），其创始人是让 ·海德雷（ Jean Rédélé）。海德雷先是离开故乡迪耶普去巴黎求学，后又返回故里开了间雷诺汽车代理店，该店还是他参加的各种赛车比赛的后勤基地。当时他驾驶参赛的是普通的雷诺 4 CV。让 ·海德雷车技出众，在几个知名赛事如一千英里拉力赛（Mille Miglia）和环阿尔卑斯山拉力赛中（Critérium des Alpes）获胜，他为自创品牌阿尔派命名时就受到后者启发。阿尔派的故事要从 1955 年的 A106 车型说起，该车型基于经济型的雷诺 4 CV 设计。 3 年后，阿尔派又推出了 A108，特意为参加比赛设计了底盘。 1962 年问世的的 A110 Berlinette 是汽车史上最重要的车型之一，它很快就在赛场上横扫对手，在法国、西班牙、保加利亚和罗马尼亚连连获胜，阿尔派也因它成为坊间美谈。随着阿尔派在一系列赛事中的骄人战绩，让·海德雷的名声也愈加巩

n a world where it is said that passion for cars as objects of pure pleasure fades at high speed, someone had the courage to bring back to life a brand of sports cars that exist for one reason and one reason only: to be driven. The name of that make is Alpine, and was founded 63 years ago by Jean Rédélé. After leaving his native Dieppe to study in Paris, Rédélé returned home to open a concession that doubled as a logistical base for the various races in which he took part, at the wheel of the humble Renault 4 CV. A virtuoso behind the wheel, the Frenchman was victorious on several occasions in competitions as important as the Mille Miglia and the Critérium des Alpes – a rally whose name inspired the brand itself. The story of the French emblem began with the A106 model in 1955, a design based on the modest Renault 4 CV, followed by the A108 three years later, already built on a chassis developed for that effect. The A110 Berlinette, one of the most iconic cars in the entire history 澳门精华 | 2018年 10月- 11月 | 51

Essential CAR

固，坊间流传他打造的赛车能够击败任何对手，在 71 年蒙特卡洛拉力赛上，阿尔派更是包揽三甲，一时风头无两。这似乎还不够，两年后阿尔派再创佳绩，同年，还在世界拉力锦标赛中获得世界车队冠军头衔。 1975 年，雷诺集团收购了阿尔派品牌，两个品牌强强联手后，阿尔派在 1978 年的勒芒 24 小时耐力赛中取得了历史性胜利。由

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Didier Pironi 和 Jean-Pierre Jaussaud 驾驶的 A 442B 在萨尔特赛道（勒芒赛道）上刷出了 369 圈的传奇战绩。 1995 年，雷诺决定暂停生产阿尔派。阿尔派诞生四十年来，迪耶普工厂售出了 30,000 多辆各种型号的汽车，此外有 70 多辆单座汽车和 37 台跑车原型车，参与全球各地多种赛事，为之增色。总的来说，到 1995 年为

of automobiles and the model that put the brand on everyone’s lips, was launched in 1962 and quickly began wiping out the competition completely, with titles in France, Spain, Bulgaria and Romania. Jean Rédélé’s reputation as a creator of sports cars able to beat any adversary was further cemented with more competition wins, and reached its peak with the triumph at the Monte

Essential CAR

止，阿尔派在比赛中取得了超过 1000 场胜利，还有 26 个拉力赛冠军，6 个单座赛车冠军和 4 个拉力越野赛冠军。 17 年后，阿尔派的名字再次出现在雷诺集团的新闻发布会上。2012 年，雷诺宣布将在一个项目中重启阿尔派，并会秉承阿尔派创始之初的构造原则。6 年后，全新的 A110 成功面世，有望赢得新生代追随者。为了尽可能的减轻车身重量，A110 的底盘完全由铝合金制成。21 世纪的第一款阿尔派搭载中置后驱发动机，容量为 1.8 升、输出功率 252 马力，与之匹配的 7 速双离合自动变速箱由方向盘上的变速杆控制，将强大马力独独传送到后轮上，延续品牌史上最著名的跑车及所有迪耶普工厂生产的阿尔派汽车的传统。迪耶普工厂不仅是品牌的精神总部，为了生产全新 A110 还特别进行了彻底的翻新和改造。全新 A110 年产量不会超过 10,000

Carlo Rally of ’71, in which the brand saw its three cars get to the three first places. As if that weren’t enough, Rédélé’s creations repeated that achievement two years later, the year in which Alpine also picked up the World Constructors’ title in the World Rally Championship. In 1975, the Renault Group acquired the Alpine brand, and the ever-closer collaboration between the two manufacturers resulted in a historical victory at the 24 Hours of Le Mans in 1978. The A442B, driven by Didier Pironi and Jean-Pierre Jaussaud, won the legendary resistance race with 369 laps on the Circuit de la Sarthe. In 1995, Renault decided to suspend Alpine. For four decades, more than 30,000 units of various Alpine road models left the Dieppe factory, while more than 70 single-seaters and

37 sport-prototypes graced the most diverse competitions across the four corners of the globe. Overall, by 1995, Alpine had racked up over 1000 victories in its list of successes across all the disciplines of four-wheeled motorsports, along with 26 rally titles, six single-seater titles and four rallycross championships. It took 17 years for the Alpine name to appear once again in a press release from the Renault Group. In 2012, the French giant announced that it would revive the name founded by Jean Rédélé in a project that would follow the structural principles that had always defined the brand. Six years later, the new A110 is a reality and promises to win over a new generation of followers. With a chassis made entirely of aluminium so as to reduce the weight as much as possible,

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Essential CAR

辆，以确保阿尔派在重生的喜悦中依旧保持品牌至高无上的做工、构造及品质标准。轻量车身同样保证了 A110 的非凡性能：起步加速到时速 100 公里仅需 4.5 秒。A110 保留了 1962 年原版车型的优雅造型，同时融入创新现代元素，瞬间造就永恒。其实，阿尔派从 A110 Berlinette 汲取灵感打造了全新的 A110，以连接过去和未来、吸引从未遗忘过阿尔派非凡意义的车迷乃至新生代车迷 ——后者正是出生于阿尔派的低沉期。内饰方面，全新 A110 采用高级材料和配置：豪华的 Sabelt 赛车座椅、Focal 音响系统及浮动中央控制台彰显着车厢的前卫气质，赋予其与德国车业对手相比，极为迷人又截然不同的乘车环境。无论是驰骋赛场还是跑在路上，有一件事可以肯定：阿尔派风光回归。对于依旧把驾驶汽车当成享受和解放自我的人而言，对于那些痴迷于座驾带来的风驰电掣难忘体验而永远铭记于心的驾驶者，这无疑是莫大的好消息。 쐽 54 | OCTOBER- NOVEMBER 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential CAR

the first example of the 21st-century Alpine has a rear mid-engine with 1800cc and 252 horsepower, paired to a seven-speed automatic transmission controlled by paddle shifters placed on the steering wheel, which transfers the power exclusively to the rear wheels, in keeping with the tradition of the most prestigious sports cars in history and of all the Alpines that Jean Rédélé built in Dieppe. The historical factory is not only the spiritual headquarters of the brand, but it underwent a complete renovation to receive the production of the new A110, which won’t surpass 10,000 units per year, so that the standard of finishing, construction and quality

stay true to the brand’s premium positioning in this new and exciting rebirth. Its light weight is also responsible for the A110’s extraordinary performances: 0-100km/h in just 4.5 seconds. The A110 preserves the aesthetic elegance of the 1962 original, introducing innovative and very modern solutions that make it instantly timeless. In fact, its inspiration from the A110 Berlinette is the most interesting way that the brand could have found to bridge the past and the future, and to captivate not only those who have never forgotten the significance of Alpine, but also those who were born while the brand was sleeping.

Inside, the avant-garde cabin marked by high-quality materials features the fabulous Sabelt sports seats, the Focal audio system and the floating centre console, which lends it an extremely attractive and decidedly different environment to that of the German competition. On the track or on the road, one thing is certain: the Alpine is back, and that is great news for those who still love cars as machines of pleasure and liberation, creators of unforgettable movements that will forever be etched in the memory of those who experience them. 쐽

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Essential FRAGRANCES

香渺回忆 Scents of memories 威伊尔香氛是纽约小众香氛品牌，其创始人是前瑞典男模扬 · 阿格伦。《精华》了解到，他携手调香大师杰罗米 · 埃皮内特，以美好的记忆和杰出的想象力为创意之源，打造了威伊尔香氛 Vilhelm Parfumerie is a niche perfume brand from New York, whose founder is Jan Ahlgren, a Swedish former male model. Memory and imagination are the creative source of an olfactory universe, created alongside the nez Jérôme Epinette, as Essential Macau discovered 文/by CÉSAR BRIGANTE

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Essential FRAGRANCES

扬

·阿格伦（Jan Ahlgren）拥有迷人的魅力，看外表就能知道他曾作为职业男模在高级时装界打拼过，在他身上看到的是时光静好、悠闲自在、喜悦舒畅。他告诉我们，他的这种风格也延续到自己经营的生意中。 “老实说，我算不上是世界上最有条理的人。但我觉得自己有创造力。我认为这是我最擅长的一点。幸运的是，无论是销售还是管理方面，现在都有人帮我运作日常事务，因为两样都不是我的强项。因为自幼家庭并不富裕，我从小就习惯了事事自己做。但我从来没像生意刚起步时那么精疲力竭过，”他笑着说。品牌在小众市场上的卓越成就让人难以置信，并且成功打入许多重要商场，如纽约巴尼斯精品店（Barneys）和萨克斯第五大道精品百货店（Saks Fifth Avenue）、伦敦利伯提百货（Liberty）和如今已经关门的巴黎柯莱特时尚店（Colette），他还为后者创作过一款香氛。不到 40 岁的扬 ·阿格伦出生在瑞典，父亲是瑞典人，母亲是美国人。他自己说，他没有过远大的童年梦想，更不用说香水了。 “这是最近才发掘的激情（……）小时候我和瑞典所有的孩子一样，特别想成为像比约恩 ·博格（Björn Borg）那样的网球运动员，”他说。当然也和大多数人一样，网球对他逐渐失去了吸引力。“并不是我没努力过，是我不够优秀，就这么简单。” 他也许没参加过大满贯，但生活却为他带来另一份职业，令许多人艳羡不已却又遥不可及的职业——让他有机会周游世界的高级时装男模。模特紧张的生活方式，让他在全球各大城市间穿梭，直到大约 7 年前，他才在纽约安顿下来。在靠青春吃饭的模特事业要结束时，他决定拓宽自己的选择范围，于是选择了另一个自己热爱的职业——设计。“后来我开始进军时尚界，但我还是不能如愿以偿。最后我又开始做皮具，嗯……如果说做皮具也要透过设计来做，那我离设计也不远。但我觉得有人比我优秀多了，”他坦然说道，我们很快也习惯了他的这种真诚和坦率。无论如何，正是做皮具为他打开了香水世界的大门。“我的想法就是让我生产的钱夹能散发出独特的香气。因为在 17、18 世纪的巴黎，为女士手套洒上香水是很常见的习俗，于是我决定恢复这一习俗。我就是这样认识了杰罗米·埃皮内特（Jérôme Epinette）。” 杰罗米是著名的法国调香大师，已在纽约生活逾 15 年，无论是大众还是小众品牌，虽然理念不同却都对他趋之如骛。他之所以闻名遐迩，很大程度上要归功于他为 Byredo 以及另一个小众品牌 Atelier Cologne 打造的香水作品。前者是扬的同胞本 ·戈汉姆（Ben Gorham）创立的品牌；杰罗米为后者设计了十几款香水。

ith a physical presence that is expected from someone who spent most of his working life as a high fashion male model, Jan Ahlgren is a charming man with a laid-back and jovial air. It is a style, he tells us, that extends to the business that he has run practically on his own. “To be honest, I’m not the most organised person in the world. I consider myself creative. I think that is what I’m best at. Fortunately, I now have help in the day-to-day running of the business, in both the sales and management side and the production side, because that isn’t my strength. Because I’m not from a wealthy family, I got used to doing everything from a young age. I’d never felt as worn out as when I started the business,” he admits with a chuckle. It is hard to believe, considering the success the brand has achieved in the niche market and the ease in which it has penetrated such important sales points as the Barneys and Saks Fifth Avenue department stores in New York, Liberty in London and the since closed Colette in Paris, for which he even created a fragrance. Just shy of his 40s, Jan was born in Sweden, the son of a Swedish father and American mother. As he explains, he didn’t have big childhood dreams, much less related to perfume. “This is a recent passion (...) At that time, like all children in Sweden, what I really wanted to be was a tennis player like Björn Borg,” he says. And like most, tennis fell by the wayside. “It wasn’t that I didn’t try, I just wasn’t very good, pure and simple.” He may not have played in a Grand Slam but, despite it all, life presented him with another profession that many dream of but few have access to – a career as a high fashion male model that allowed him to travel the world. With an intense lifestyle, split between the world’s biggest capitals, he settled in New York around seven years ago. At the twilight of a profession with an expiration date, he decided to broaden his range of options, from which he chose design, another of his great passions. “I began as an interior designer, but I ended up quitting. Then I went into fashion, but I still couldn’t achieve what I wanted. Finally, it was the leather accessories, and well... let’s say that through the design, I didn’t get very far. I think there are people who are much better than me,” he says with a frankness that he quickly accustomed us to. Either way, it was this last chapter of his life that opened the doors to perfumery. “I had the

idea to fragrance the leather wallets I was producing so that they would have their own scent. It was common practice applied to ladies’ gloves in 17th and 18th-century Paris that I decided to bring back. That’s how I met Jérôme Epinette.” Jérôme is a renowned French nez, living in New York for more than a decade and a half, who is regularly sought after by various brands of different degrees of notoriety. He gained prominence in large part due to the work he developed for Byredo, the brand created by Jan’s fellow countryman Ben Gorham, and another niche brand, Atelier Cologne, for which he has conceived around a dozen fragrances. The meeting with the person who is now more than the brand’s perfumer – he considers Jérôme a friend – opened the doors to a world that fascinated Jan from day one. “My direct link to perfumery is almost nil, or rather I had the connection that we all have. From time to time, I’d buy a cologne I liked, but without knowing the reality of what was behind it. In short, what most of us do. We don’t think about it in everyday life.” However, smell has always played a very important role for him. “I have always kept memories of smells. I associate them vividly to the best moments of my childhood, and it was only after meeting Jérôme and being introduced to his art that I realised how important smell was to me. In truth, I felt that it awakened something in me that had always been there, dormant, just waiting to be revealed. Everything I have learnt from Jérôme allows me to see things from a new perspective,” he explains expressively. He started by dealing with those memories. Soon after the fortuitous meeting, he decided to launch a perfume brand. The name Vilhelm is a tribute to his grandfather. An elegant man, given to hedonistic pleasures, he was one of Jan’s biggest companions and influences. It is an homage to the man, but also to the times in which he lived. “Right from the start, I wanted to give Vilhelm Parfumerie a chic touch, of 1920s luxury that my grandfather experienced and which is an important reference for me. I search for those memories, for that luxury of yesteryear that I combine with modernity to create a very particular aesthetic that has become our trademark.” The bright yellow packaging, covered in graphic motifs that remind us of hieroglyphs – “I went further here, more specifically to Egypt where the perfumes as we know today were born” –, unarguably fulfils the purpose for which 澳门精华 | 2018年 10月- 11月 | 57

Essential FRAGRANCES

从第一天认识杰罗米 ·埃皮内特起，扬就走进入了这个令自己耳目一新的香水世界。杰罗米 ·埃皮内特不只是品牌的调香师，对扬而言也是一位挚友。“我和香水的几乎毫无关联，或者说我和香水的关系和大部分人的并无二致。我时不时会买一瓶自己喜欢的古龙香水，但对其中所含的知识一无所知。总之，大部分人都是如此，我们不会在日常生活中去想它。” 然而，气味在他的生活中一直占据重要的地位。“我一直都对气味记忆犹新。”这些气味与我童年最美好的时光紧紧联系在一起，直到认识杰罗米，并了解了他的香水艺术之后，我才意识到气味对我有多重要。事实上，我觉得它唤醒了我内心一直存在的某种 58 | OCTOBER- NOVEMBER 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

it was created: to draw attention without losing its elegance. The circular bottle, shorter than the usual and with a furrowed surface, also evokes the Belle Époque from which Jan drew inspiration. “I wanted the bottle to have a classic touch and that would convey some comfort. I even wanted to find a way for the magnetic lid to close with a single touch, like when you close the door of a Bentley, but there are things that are more difficult. Even so, we got close. After all, it is these details that help us define a product as being luxury.” In Jérôme Epinette’s creations, a collection that started with six fragrances in May 2015 and which is already at 21 (considered by some to

be an exaggerated number for a niche brand just starting out), Jan Ahlgren found a prolific form of expression that he never imagined until recently. With more obvious names that make reference to the ingredients or the style, such as Oud Affair or Black Citrus, or the more poetic and enigmatic, like Morning Chess, Stockholm 78 and Room Service, or the latest and most ambiguous Poets of Berlin, Jan tells us aromatic stories that are buried in his memory or imagination, if not both. Such is the case of Morning Chess, one of his more masculine perfumes, although he is adamant when affirming that his fragrances are genderless. He translates Morning Chess as an expression of the long,

Essential FRAGRANCES

东西，它一直蛰伏在我心里，等着被唤醒。从杰罗米那里学到的一切都让我从一个全新的角度看待事物。他先从这些记忆开始着手。结识杰罗米后不久，他决定推出香水品牌。取名 Vilhelm （威伊尔）是为了向祖父致敬。祖父举止优雅，喜欢享乐，给了扬最多的陪伴，也是对他影响最大的人之一。Vilhelm 是缅怀祖父，也是缅怀他所生活的那个时代。“从一开始，我就想赋予 Vilhelm Parfumerie(威伊尔香水 ) 一种奢华别致的感觉，洋溢出上世纪 20 年代我祖父经历过的奢靡时代的美好，对我而言，那年代是个重要的参照。透过搜寻那些记忆，寻找往日的奢华，再融入现代气息，创造出独具个性的香水美学，这已成为我们品牌最显著的特色。” Vilhelm Parfumerie 香水包装采用明亮的黄色，上面布满图形图案，让人不禁想起象形文字——“我进一步探索，更具体地说，是探索了我们今天所熟知的香水诞生地埃及” ——恰如其分地实现了创造香水的目的：引人注意，又不失优雅。Vilhelm Parfumerie 香水瓶为圆形，瓶身比一般香水瓶矮，表面有沟槽，让人联想到“美好年代”（Belle Époque），扬的灵感也源于此。“我希望香水瓶散发经典气息，能传达某种舒适与安慰。我甚至想用什么方法，轻轻一碰磁性瓶盖，盖子就能盖上，就好像关宾利的车门一样；但有些事要难得多。即便如此，我们还是接近了目标。毕竟，正是这些细节才决定了产品是否为奢侈品。杰罗米 ·埃皮内特为 Vilhelm Parfumerie 打造的香水作品中，有个系列 2015 年 5 月推出时，共有 6 款香水，如今该系列已经壮大到 21 款（有些人认为对于一个刚起步的小众品牌而言，这么多的产品可谓夸张了），扬·阿格伦发现了一种丰富的命名形式，这点他直到最近才想到。香水名称更明显地阐述其香料用材或其风格，如 Oud Affair （以女演员艾娃 ·嘉德纳与西班牙著名的

斗牛士多明戈的偷情事件为灵感）或 Black Citrus，或更为诗意神秘的名字如 Morning Chess、Stockholm 78 和 Room Service，以及最新推出、也是最为暧昧的 Poets of Berlin，扬借各种产品讲述自己记忆中或想象的香氛故事，亦或两者都有。Morning Chess 就是如此，是一款散发着浓郁的阳刚气息的香水产品，尽管他很坚定地表明品牌所有的香水产品都不分性别，可以男女共用。Morning Chess（清晨棋局）弥漫着他住在瑞典西海岸法尔肯贝里祖父家时的记忆：阳光明媚的夏日清晨，男人们割完草后，就在碧绿的草场上没完没了的下棋，香气悠长缭绕。Black Citrus 香如其名，混合了香根草、广藿香、木香和柑橘香气，散发着袅袅的泥土和神秘气息。这款香水最受男士欢迎，创作灵感来自传奇俄罗斯芭蕾舞大师鲁道夫·努里耶夫（Rudolf Nureyev），扬解释道。“这种灵感是凭空出现的。有次在伦敦，我碰巧看到了关于努里耶夫的纪录片，这是研发这款香水的出发点。柑橘香气通常和运动珠联璧合，恰恰符合努里耶夫健壮魁梧的身姿，但据我所知，他也是个有争议的人物，这就更不同寻常了。我试图向杰罗米传递这种二元性，他调出了我想要的香水。” 这顶 “创意总监 ”的帽子，扬希望能戴的次数越多越好，他如今正准备在巴黎开设精品店，在巴黎行业竞争剧烈，挑战巨大无比，可是这样也没有吓倒他。“我当然可以选择其他城市来开精品店，但话说回来，巴黎是香水工艺世界的中心，没有比这里更好的地方了。还有一点，这么多年过去了，我也开始思念欧洲了。” 采访快结束时，我们问了他一个至关重要的问题：他对未来有怎样的规划，他直接答道：（他）会像目前一样继续工作，不让匆忙仓促和压力打扰自己的创作自由，因为他已经找到了自己真正热爱的事业，为此要延续传承下去。 쐽

sunny summer mornings spent at his grandfather’s house in Falkenberg, on the west coast of Sweden, where, after cutting the grass, the men would play endless games of chess in the verdant surroundings. With Black Citrus, as the name suggests, the fragrance has a citrus personality distorted by vetiver, patchouli and wood that lend it an earthy and enigmatic touch. This best-seller among men was inspired by the legendary Russian ballet dancer Rudolf Nureyev, explains Jan. “This is one of those cases that appears from nowhere. I was in London when I happened to watch a documentary about Nureyev, which was the starting point for the creation of this fragrance. The citrus that is usually associated to sport fits well with Nureyev’s athletic and strapping figure, but from what I can gather, it was also a figure with a more controversial side, more unusual. It was this duality that I tried to convey to Jérôme, and he reproduced exactly what I had in mind.” This is the ‘creative director’ hat that Jan wants to take on more and more, now that he is preparing to enter a new phase with the opening of a boutique in Paris, a huge challenge that doesn’t scare him in terms of competition. “Of course I could have opted for another city to open this boutique, but after all, Paris is the centre of the world when it comes to this craft, and so there wasn’t a better place to be than there. But also, after all these years, I’m starting to miss Europe.” When we ask him the fatal question to end the interview about his plans for the future, he is quick to answer: to continue to work as he has until now, with no rush and no pressures that will interfere with his creative freedom, because he has found what he truly loves and, for that reason, he wants to preserve it. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 10月- 11月 | 59

秋日特辑 Fall project

摄影及助理 PHOTOGRAPHY PEDRO FERREIRA, ASSISTED BY ANA VIEGAS 造型及助理 STYLING SUSANA MARQUES PINTO FOR WWW.PULPFASHION.PT, ASSISTED BY BEATRIZ CLEMENTE 化妆 MAKE-UP PATRICK VAN DEN BERG (WWW.SKINLIFE.PT) WITH BY TERRY PRODUCTS（美妆产品：By Terry）发型 HAIR SOFIA CARDOSO FOR GRIFFEHAIRSTYLE WITH L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL PRODUCTS（美发产品：巴黎欧莱雅专业美发）模特 MODEL CHANTELLE (WE ARE MODELS)

上衣 Jacket: Etro 长裤 Trousers: 维多利亚·贝克汉姆 Victoria Beckham 凉鞋 Sandals: Jimmy Choo

大衣 Coat: 宝缇嘉 Bottega Veneta 腰带 Belt: 圣罗兰 Saint Laurent 靴 Boots: 华伦天奴 Valentino 钱包 Purse: Le Petit Joueurs

大衣 Coat: 珑骧 Longchamp 长裤 Trousers: Nuno Baltazar 腰带 Belt: Maison Vaincourt 鞋履 Shoes: 芬迪 Fendi

夹克 Jacket: 古琦 Gucci 连衣裙 Dress: 艾莉·萨博 Elie Saab

上衣 Jacket: Metamorfosi Milano 连衣裙 Dress: Fracomina 裤子 Trousers: 芬迪 Fendi

大衣 Coat: 芬迪 Fendi 衬衣 Blouse: 珑骧 Longchamp 半截裙 Skirt: 古琦 Gucci 鞋 Shoes: 芬迪 Fendi

大衣 Coat: Fracomina 连衣裙 Dress: 宝缇嘉 Bottega Veneta 靴子 Boots: 蔻依 Chloé

樽领上衣 Turtleneck: 维多利亚·贝克汉姆 Victoria Beckham 连衣裙 Dress: 米索尼 Missoni 腰带包 Belt bag: 芬迪 Fendi 鞋 Shoes: Christian Louboutin

连衣裙 Dress: Diogo Miranda 皮带 Belt: 制作人员私服 production’s own 鞋 Shoes: Sophia Webster

Essential TRENDS

汤姆·福特：坚守自我 Tom Ford: The believer! 9 月，时装周重回视线，各大品牌亦纷纷展示明年的春夏新装，汤姆 · 福特则选择了纽约作为其秀场，展现其糅合创意与奢靡、又保留着黑白神髓的系列 September marks the return of fashion weeks showcasing the brands’ proposals for next year's warm seasons. Tom Ford chose New York to present his brand’s suggestions. A collection that preserves the 'noir' tones and his mix of creativity and decadence 文/by CATARINA VASQUES RITO

我

成为设计师的初衷，是因为我希望让男性和女性都能感到自己更加美丽，并拥有自信的力量。这种感觉，就是知道自己正在展现着光彩照人的一面，然后向世界展现最美好的自己。我想创作让人显得更美的服装，让人显得更高、更瘦、更美丽或更英俊，”汤姆 ·福特正在谈论的，正是他的工作以及最近于 9 月 6 日在纽约时装周开幕大秀上展示的最新系列。“ 本系列的创意似乎直接取材自德国犯罪电视剧《巴比伦柏林》，这部剧集背景设于二十世纪二十年代末，但除此之外我们显然还能见到一些七十年代的痕迹。女装线风格阳刚，但柔软布料、蕾丝细节裙子、强调腰线的腰封、绸缎鞋子和中跟鞋等设计带来的女性气质则消解了阳刚之感。外套和夹克结合不同剪裁，带来更加挑逗的态度，同时亦体现了汤姆·福特的时尚态度。来自美国的汤姆·福特早年成名于意大利品牌 Gucci，他走上了一条不同于其他设计师的道路——尤其是他对记者、杂志编辑和潮流人士等 “时尚引领者”以及“意见领袖”针锋相对的态度。 “我知道时尚圈的游戏规则，但我无需跟从 72 | OCTOBER- NOVEMBER 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

became a designer because I wanted to make men and women feel more beautiful and to empower them with a feeling of confidence. A feeling of knowing that they looked their best and could then present their best selves to the world. I wanted to make clothes that were flattering. That make one look taller and slimmer and more beautiful or more handsome," Tom Ford said about his work and the result of his most recent collection presented on September 6, at the start of another edition of New York Fashion Week. “ The creative universe for this collection seems to come from the German crime series "Babylon Berlin" whose plot brings us back to the late 1920s, but the 1970s are also clearly there in some of the styles of this collection. The women's line is marked by a more masculine touch, deconstructed by the femininity of fabrics and garments such as skirts with lace details, corsets defining the waist, satin shoes and average heel heights. Coats and jackets grant a provocative attitude with a combination

Essential JEWELLERY

of different cuts making up Tom Ford’s proposals. This American designer, acclaimed for his past work with the Italian brand Gucci, has followed a different path as regards most of his fellow designers particularly given his provocative confrontation with trendsetters and “opinion makers" ( journalists, magazine editors, trend-setters). "I know the rules of the game but I don´t have to follow them. There was a time when I had to prove my talent but that is long gone. I do what I like, the way I want and nobody is forced to buy it or see if they don’t want. I won the right to 'play' with fashion, ideas and creativity," the designer said a few years ago when critics expressed their opinions on his

他们。曾经，我亦有过必须向他们证明自己才华的时候，但那个阶段早已过去了。我用自己喜欢的方式做自己喜欢的事，如果别人不喜欢，无人会去强迫他们去购买或观看（我的作品）。我已赢得了我的权利，去 ‘玩 ’ 时尚、理念和创意这个游戏，”汤姆 ·福特几年前在回应时尚评论称他的创作选择 “太媚俗”时说道。他作出了回应，并继续在自己选择的道路上走下去。无论男装还是女装，黑色、柔和的粉彩色以及暖色调是此系列中的主色。汤姆·福特钟爱的豹纹虽然不及以前随处可见，但我们仍可在设计中找到其身影，而压花皮则创造出夺目效果。取自二十年代与七十年代的灵感在本系列和平共存，实际上二十年代末的某些风格曾于七十年代回潮，潮流灵感不断轮回，混合这两个年代的风格因而亦不显突兀。设计师选择包裹整个头部的丝质头巾并非随意为之，头巾的出现可能有两重原因，首先，这是二十和七十年代的潮流，亦即本系列的灵感之源；对于因文化或宗教原因而需包裹头发的女性而言，这些头巾可以替代传统穆斯林面纱“希贾布”，再此体现了设计师对购买力强大的市场之重视。情欲一直是汤姆 ·福特的指路明灯，而汤姆·福特本身亦是真正了解“情欲”、并明白应如何用于时装设计上的少数当代设计师之一。但汤姆·福特在设计上对情欲的把握并非一味在追求优雅，却或许更偏向于在 “安全”与“放纵”之间达到平衡。 쐽

creative choices which they considered to be "too kitsch”. Tom Ford reacted and followed the path he chose. Black stands out in this collection along with pastel tones and warm colours both form woman and man. The leopard print is still there, albeit less effusive, despite Tom Ford’s clear fascination for this pattern, plus the embossed leather that creates a striking effect. The 1920s and 1970s inspiration coexists peacefully in this collection, considering that some references to the late twenties were back in fashion in the seventies, hence the mix between both is neutralized by the recurring inspiration in the past. The choice of the silk headscarf that covers the hair completely is not innocent and may be there for two reasons: it was a trend in the 1920s and 1970s, the motto of this collection; for women who, for cultural or religious grounds cover their hair thus working as a traditional 'hijab' replacement and thereby restating the designer focus in markets with large purchasing power. Sensuality has always guided Tom Ford, one of the few contemporary designers who knows what "sensuality" is and how it should be applied to fashion design. But Tom Ford does not seek elegant sensuality "per se" but rather a sensuality that is there presumably somewhere between "safe" and "decadent." 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 10月- 11月 | 75

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活出美好 Live a beautiful life 中国时装设计师何苗展示了她令人赞叹的设计，鼓励女性过上美好的生活 Chinese fashion designer He Miao showcases her amazing designs, encouraging women to live a beautiful life 文/by EDWINA LIU

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绰丰组织发展有限公司举办的 “仁孚中国城前启后私享之旅 ”在澳門文华东方酒店完美收官，壮观的烟花照亮了夜空，正是在这里，最近中国时装设计师何苗展示了一场精彩的獨幕劇表演，展示其 Theo VII 品牌的最新设计。绰丰组织发展有限公司举办的 “仁孚中国城前启后专属之旅 ”在澳门文华东方酒店完美收官，壮丽的烟花照亮了夜空，正是在这里，最近中国时装设计师何苗举办了一场精彩的独幕剧演出，展示其 Theo VII 品牌的最新设计。表演在酒店宴会厅的中心地带举行，通过舞者的演出呈现一个女人的生活，鼓励女性及其伴侣更多地欣赏自己。 “我有很甜很柔美的衣服，像荷叶边去表现还是小女孩的时候。当她谈恋爱了，她会是另一个状态，等结了婚又是另一个状态。” 何苗说。她还为表演作出阐释：开场时演示的是一袭粉红连衣裙，而随着戏中女人生活的展开，其著装的颜色越来越深。 “当代女人在外面需要很强，在家里又要很软。我会从衣服和首饰和舞者动作在这个距离里全部表达出来。在舞蹈结束时，当小女孩变为成熟女人时，我会用一些坚硬的服装结构和轮廓来带出她的形象，”她表示。因为传统的中国人往往将希望都寄托在儿女身上，因此有朝一日他们老去的时候，这位设计师希望给她们传递这样信息：其实女性可以美丽地活着。何苗还认为，女性虽然温柔，但其实个性独立且精神强大，正因如此，她在 Theo VII 服装中加入了许多时尚的设计。她擅长将女性元素与时尚的服装结构相结合，因此该品牌的最新高端系列的重要单品是一件带有男性化轮廓的风衣，但采用了美丽的波纹收腰型，为女性塑造迷人身段。此系列的每个款式都是限量版，以保证质量。 76 | OCTOBER- NOVEMBER 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

gainst a backdrop of spectacular fireworks lighting up the night sky, Zung Fu China’s ‘Hidden Faces of Macau’ Exclusive Culture Tour, organised by Coforte Organisation Development Limited, has successfully concluded at Mandarin Oriental Macau, where Chinese fashion designer He Miao recently showcased a wonderful one-act play featuring the latest designs of her Theo VII brand. The play – staged in the centre of the hotel ballroom - presented a woman’s life through the ‘aperture’ of the dancers, encouraging women and their partners to appreciate themselves more. “I prepared some clothes with sweet details like ruffles to represent a young girl. When she falls in love, she will have a different mentality and when she gets married she will change again,”（says He, who explains that the show starts with a pink dress, with the colour becoming darker and darker as it sketches out a woman’s life. “A modern female should be very tough outside but tender when she is at home. So I showcase these kinds of changes in the life of women through clothes, accessories and dance. At the end of the dance, when the little girl becomes mature enough, I use some hard garment construction and silhouettes to explain her image,” she says. As traditional Chinese build their hopes around their children when they get old the designer wants to send the message that women can actually live their lives in a beautiful way. The designer also believes women are gentle but still independent and mentally strong, which is why she includes many sleek designs in her Theo VII clothes. She excels at combining

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她补充说， Theo VII 的目标客户是一线和二线城市的女性，她们具有强烈的个性和不凡品味。 “这些有消费能力和已经习惯购买奢侈品牌的女性，她们在买习惯了这些品牌之后，反而想找一些特别的、质量好的小众品牌。但在中国，她们往往很难找到。当她们穿上甜美蕾丝也总有说不出的奇怪。女人不应该让衣服驾驭你而是女人驾驭衣服。每个人穿起我们的衣服都有不同的感觉。” 她说道。她认为，今天有太多品牌希望通过追随潮流来安抚客户，在此过程中放弃了自己的品味和风格。因此，她接着说，Theo VII 是当今寥寥可数的表达 “个人 ”色彩的品牌之一。 78 | OCTOBER- NOVEMBER 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

何苗的美丽人生

何苗曾于北京服装学院修读时装设计，其后赴伦敦时装学院深造，获得硕士学位，现在是国际时装界最著名的中国年轻时装设计师之一。她觉得有趣的是，当她回顾自己的职业生涯之初时，她发现是时装选择了她，而非她选择时装。 “我当时梦想成为一名建筑师并学习国画：我是出于偶然才去了北京时装学院，”她说。大学的第一年对她来说非常困难，因为当时她对时装品牌和设计师一无所知——她甚至于非常讨厌这个专业。然而，最终，一次做剪裁的实践机会，唤起了她对构造衣服的兴趣，她发现这与构建建筑相似。为了完善技能，她决定出国留学。

female elements with sleek garment construction thus the key item of the newest high-end line of the brand is a trench coat with masculine silhouette but with a beautiful corrugated waistcontrolled look to help ladies look shapely. Each design of this collection is a limited release to guarantee quality. Theo VII’s target customers are women from first and second tier cities, she adds, with strong personality and tastes. “These kinds of women have high spending power and can afford most luxury brand clothes,” she says. “Now they need something unique and special of high quality, which they seldom find in China. It’s strange to [dress] these women in lace or something with girly

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“我在伦敦得到最重要的东西是，我发现了自己的风格，”她说，“设计师要确定自己的风格并不容易。从那时起，我就一直以这种方式自我发展，这种特征也反映于我的品牌中。” 从伦敦毕业后，何苗没有立即推出自己的品牌。为了磨练自己的技能，她从事了一系列自由设计工作，包括为亚太经济合作会议中国代表团设计服装。后来，一位投资者邀请她推出自己的品牌。因此，Theo VII 横空出世。要发展为一个成功的时装品牌从来都是长路漫漫，荆棘满途，对于何苗和她的团队这也是个艰难重任，不久他们便发现实际需要的资金比预算高出不少。 “这是一段艰难的时期；我们完成了该系列的设计。我的合作伙伴的父母建议我用我们自己的钱来制作和销售这个系列。我就想，既然我们已经投入了那么多精力，为什么不干脆押注于它呢，”于是她作出了决定，大胆一搏。虽然 Theo VII 已经在许多国际时装周上亮相，包括米兰和伦敦时装周。但何苗坦承，经营一个时装品牌并不容易，而来之不易的成就 “归功于我的团队。没有他们，品牌就无法维持下去。我的版工都不畏辛苦跟我两年了，”她感叹到。 쐽

designs. We also want to express that women can’t be reined in by clothes; it should be the other way - they need to [dominate] the clothes. Different people wearing our designs should showcase different feelings and styles.” Today, she believes, too many brands want to placate customers by following the trends, abandoning their own taste and style in the process. Thus, He continues, Theo VII is presented as one of the few existing brands expressing ‘individual’ tones.

HE’S BEAUTIFUL LIFE He Miao - who studied at the Beijing Institute of Fashion and Technology and finished her Master’s degree in the London College of Fashion - is now one of the most famous young Chinese fashion designers in the international fashion industry. What she finds interesting is that when she looks back at the beginning of her career, she found that fashion chose her rather than the other way around. “I was dreaming of being an architect and studying traditional Chinese painting: I went to the Beijing Institute of Fashion by accident,” she says, The first year at university was very difficult for her, as at that time she knew nothing of fashion brands and designers – to the point that she really hated the subject. Eventually, however, she was given the opportunity to do the tailoring, which ignited her interest in construct-

ing clothes, discovering similarities with architectural building. To perfect her skills, she decided to study abroad. “The most important thing I got from London was that I found my style,” she says. “It’s not easy for a designer to confirm his or her own style. Since then, I keep developing myself in this way, and it can be found in my brand.” Upon graduating from London, He did not launch her brand immediately. To hone her skills, she undertook freelance designer jobs, including designing outfits for the representatives of China in Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation conferences. Later, an investor invited her to launch her own brand. Thus, Theo VII was born. The path to becoming a successful fashion brand, never easy, was not easy for He and her team either, and they found that they were spending more money than budgeted by the investor. “It was a difficult time; we had finished the design of the collection. My partner’s parents advised me to use our money to make and sell this collection. I think we had already put so much effort into it, so why not bet on it,” she decided. Although Theo VII has appeared in many international Fashion Week events -including those held in Milan and London - He says frankly that it is not easy to run a fashion brand, and that the hard-won achievements are “thanks to my team. Without them the brand can’t stay afloat. My tailors have followed me for two years,” she enthuses. 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 10月- 11月 | 79

Essential BEAUTY

安娜苏发布 20 周年纪念彩妆新品

Happy birthday, Anna Sui

随着品牌诞生 20 周年纪念日的到来，安娜苏（Anna Sui）推出一系列特别版彩妆产品进行庆祝，魔法蔷薇、彩蝶蝶以及娃娃头等经典的安娜苏珍宝都一一亮相。其中的亮点是 20th Anniversary special coffret 20 周年珍藏纪念版彩妆组合！系列共有三种代表不同性格的包装，分别是 Sally、Marion 和 Bea 宝盒。珍藏纪念彩妆组合中可爱的彩妆品包括限量色蔷薇唇膏、防水眼线笔和指甲油。另一款可爱的限量版产品是珍宝盒组合套装。顾客可以自选 3 款眼影、腮红或唇膏宝盒套装。此次安娜苏还前所未有地推出了全新 Lips Colours Palette 唇蜜宝盒，包括 3 款蔷薇花状、拥有天鹅绒般光滑质地的唇蜜。

In celebration of the brand’s 20th anniversary, Anna Sui releases an array of special edition of makeup products with its iconic magic roses, colourful butterflies, and dolly, all of the designer’s precious treasures. One of the highlights is the 20th Anniversary special coffret! Available in three packages, they feature Sally, Marion and Bea’s world in one box. The special box is filled with all the dolly makeup items including a rose lipstick in limited colours, a long-lasting waterproof eyeliner and a nail colour. Another adorable limited product is the Cute dolly colour case. Customers can store their choice of one for eye, face or lip colour in the dolly case. More than ever, there is a new Lips Colours Palette, featuring three rose-like lips colours with a velvet, smooth texture.

迪奥全新腮红系列美丽的腮红为完美妆容锦上添花。迪奥彩妆创意及形象总监 Peter Philips 从 Rouge Dior 系列颇受喜爱的色彩汲取灵感，打造了 Rouge Blush 系列的 16 款色彩纯净大胆的腮红。 Rouge Dior 的每款口红都配有同色腮红，让美唇和亮丽面颊彼此辉映。全新 Rouge Blush 系列包含 16 种色调， 5 个色系（粉色系、红色系、玫红色系、珊瑚色和裸色系）和三种定妆效果（哑光、缎面和珠光），色彩更新颖、更时尚，塑造出更震撼的立体妆容。好的腮红当然还要配上好的腮红刷。一把好的腮红刷，刷毛要柔软、如丝般顺滑，且形状要精设得符合面颊曲线，才能打造出完美靓丽的腮红妆容。系列附送精美腮红刷。

New Diorskin Rouge Blush Beautiful Blush is always like the icing on the cake to enhance the prettiness of the makeup. Peter Philips, Creative and Image Director for Dior Make-up has created an exceptional range of 16 pure, audacious shades for Rouge Blush, drawn from the colours of the popular Rouge Dior. Every shade of lipstick has a corresponding shade of blush, meaning that colours on lips and cheeks are complementary. The collection comprises 16 shades, five families (pink, red, plum, coral and nude) and three finishes (matte, satin and shimmer) - with Rouge Blush, colour enters a new, more fashionable, high impact dimension. A good blush needs a good brush, one which has soft, silky bristles and has been redesigned to follow the curve of the cheek to perfection.

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Essential BEAUTY

路易威登新香问世法国时尚品牌路易威登（Louis Vuitton）推出全新香氛 Attrape-Rêves 追梦淡香水。 Attrape-Rêves 追梦香氛的创作灵感源自路易威登首席调香师 Jacques Cavallier Belletrud 在凝望大片流星雨时的狂喜心情，他任由自己在极致精纯的非洲可可花的引导下，打造出这款特色出众的香水。非洲可可花在香水之都格拉斯经过蒸馏处理，散发出独特的原始香气，该香水还洋溢着牡丹、广藿香、荔枝和土耳其玫瑰的清香。 Attrape-Rêves 追梦推出了补充式定制瓶身，容量分别为 100ml 和 200ml。为了携带方便，特别随附 4 支磁吸补充管的 7.5ml 旅行香水喷雾。香氛可以搭配 LV 工坊手工打造的精致皮盒，皮盒可印上姓名字母缩写。香水盒材质可以选择真皮、monogram 花纹帆布以及白色、黑色、粉色 ballerine 和香雪兰红色 Epi 水波压纹皮革。

New Les Parfums Louis Vuitton French fashion house Louis Vuitton introduces its new fragrance AttrapeRêves. Inspired by the euphoria one feels when gazing at a burst of shooting stars, Louis Vuitton Master Perfumer Jacques Cavallier Belletrud let himself be guided by an African cacao flower of absolute purity. A raw material, treated in Grasse that distils regressive, animalistic inflections. The perfect fragrance also capture the scent of peony, patchoulol, lychee and Turkish rose. Attrape-Rêves is available in refillable, customisable bottles of 100ml and 200ml. In order to keep the fragrance close, wherever the journey may lead, there is also a 7.5ml travel spray that comes with four magnetic refills. The perfume can also be housed in a sleek leather case crafted in Louis Vuitton’s workshops, marked with a choice of initials. These cases are available in natural leather, monogram canvas as well as white, black, rose ballerine and freesia Epi leather.

娇兰花草水语系列新品没有几个香氛品牌能像娇兰（Guerlain）一样拥有让人艳羡的 190 年的品牌历史。近两个世纪以来，娇兰一直倾情于一切美好事物。历史悠久的娇兰于 1999 年推出 Aqua Allegoria 花草水语香氛系列，如今系列又迎来新产品——Passiflora 仲夏百香淡香水。Aqua Allegoria 花草水语系列所有产品都是淡香水，蕴含了古龙水的清新，洋溢着娇兰香水独有的气息。全新的 Passiflora 仲夏百香淡香水糅合了阳光充足照射下成熟的百香果香气和依兰花的明朗香气，海洋香调弥漫开来让人不禁联想到水晶般的湖水。花草水语香氛系列含有 10 款不同的香水产品，顾客定能找到自己最钟意的那款。品牌在澳门新八佰伴的全新专柜设有香氛数码咨询平台，顾客可在短短几分钟内找到娇兰为您量身打造的香水产品。

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Few brands can boast a 190 years of making perfume but Guerlain can. For almost two centuries, Guerlain has been in love with everything that beauty encompasses. This time-honoured brand introduces a new member to its fresh fragrances Aqua Allegoria created in 1999 - the Passiflora. This Eaux de Toilette collection has the freshness of Cologne and the hold of a Guerlain perfume. The new Passiflora is an Eau de Toilette which blends the flavour of a sun-soaked passion fruit with the smoothness of ylang-ylang flowers in an aquatic freshness reminiscent of the crystalline waters of a lagoon. Comprising 10 different aromas, this collection can help customers find their favourite scent. The brand sets a digital fragrance finder on the new counter at New Yaohan Macau, In just minutes, you can discover the Guerlain fragrance made for you.

澳门精华 | 2018年 10月- 11月 | 81

Essential BAZAAR H&M Studio 系列秋季必备基础款

新浪潮风格地中海之香意大利沙龙香品牌“Acqua Di Parma 帕尔玛之水”的三款标志性淡香水——Arancia di Capri（卡普里香橙）、Capri Fico Di Amalfi （阿玛非无花果）及 Mirto Di Panarea（帕纳里加州桂） —— 于其 Blu Mediterraneo 蓝色地中海香薰蜡烛系列中重获新生。该系列为室外而设，例如阳台或花园，以香气和光亮为您带来美妙、宁静的感受。盛装于充满地中海风情的蓝色水晶玻璃杯中，每枝蜡烛可持续燃烧 10 小时。

Mediterranean inspiration The three iconic fragrances from Acqua di Parma, Arancia di Capri, Fico di Amalfi and Mirto di Panarea gain new life in the perfumed candle collection Blu Mediterraneo. Ideal for outdoor settings, such as terraces and gardens, the line conveys well-being and tranquillity, not only through its fragrances but also through its light. Each candle lasts up to 10 hours and comes in a crystal blue glass evoking the Mediterranean. www.acquadiparma.com

亮丽和优雅并存 Swarovski 施华洛世奇最新推出的 2018 年秋冬眼镜系列，款式设计别具创意，散发诱人光彩。这些新品流露女性阴柔之美，时尚感十足且易于佩戴，其灵感来自品牌的珠宝系列。眼镜在设计上采用了品牌著名的经典设计，并突出施华洛世奇水晶的璀璨魅力，彰显出每位女性佩戴者的独特风格。

Brightness and elegance The latest eyewear collection from Swarovski for fall/winter 2018 reveals radiance, glamour and original shapes. Feminine, modern and easy to wear, the new models are inspired by the brand’s jewellery line. Exhibiting the well-known iconic design and emphasising the Swarovski crystals, the pieces enhance the unique style of every woman. www.swarovski.com

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LV（Louis Vuitton 路易威登）最新手袋系列就像是回到过去。此系列的灵感源自新浪潮音乐（New Wave），非常适合日常使用。有五种颜色可供选择：绿色、粉红色、红色、白色和黑色，搭配新浪潮音乐时期（1970 年代末至 1980 年代）的典型翻盖式设计，新品重温了 80 年代的乐趣和丰富多彩的精髓。包包小巧实用，内部空间足以保存女士日常的一切必需品。除了带有品牌的经典 LV 金属标志外，New Wave 包款还包含一个特殊元素：增添了一条可拆卸提把，上有以彩虹丝质网印工艺刻成的 Vuitton 字样。

从美国经典惊悚电视剧《双峰镇》汲取灵感，H&M Studio 秋冬系列女装融合了女性化夸张服饰以及男装风衣橱基本款。大部分款式采用了黑色和大地色系，是日常穿着的完美选择。本系列出现了众多充满阳刚气息的设计，包括修身亮面棉质军装风衣、厚实的男友牛仔裤以及方头靴子。同时，系列中亦包含了一些女性化的款式，为现代女性的每日着装增添更多搭配可能性。除了服装，本系列的配饰同样抢眼——为了向闺蜜情谊致敬，品牌特别设计了心型友谊吊坠和耳环：用两个可移动部分的心型，带来大胆有趣的视觉效果。

New Wave The latest bag collection from Louis Vuitton is like a return to the past. Inspired by the New Wave music genre, this line is §perfect for everyday use. With five colours to choose from, between green, pink, red, white and black, and with typical patches from that era, the new pieces revisit the fun and colourful spirit of the ‘80s. Compact and practical, the interior has enough space to keep all the essentials. Besides the classic metallic logo with the letters LV, this bag also has a special element: an additional removable strap engraved with the word “Vuitton” in a colourful rainbow. www.louisvuitton.com

Autumn wardrobe essentials with H&amp; M Studio collection Inspired by American mystery horror drama Twin Peaks, H&amp;M Studio Autumn/Winter collection women’s wear is a mix of ladylike statement pieces and borrowed-from-the-boys wardrobe classics. Perfect for daily wear, most of the pieces are coloured in earth tones and black. Many masculine designs can be found in this collection, including nipped-in coated cotton trench coat, sturdy turn-up jeans, and square-toed boots. At the same time, the brand retains some feminine pieces for modern ladies to play more possibilities in their daily look. Accessories are also eye-catching; appreciating the friendship between girls, the brand designs a special friendship heart in pendent and earrings. The heart comprises two moveable parts of the heart, making a bold and interesting statement. www.hm.com

Essential BAZAAR

黑色型格 20 年前，Vacheron Constantin （江诗丹顿）的 Overseas 腕表诞生，这款腕表象征着旅行和放眼世界的精神。融力量于独特不凡中，其蓝色表盘代表深邃的海洋世界。2018 年，Overseas 腕表重生并换新颜，采用了黑色表盘，配衬闪亮的精钢表壳。配备别具特色的六面立体表圈，江诗丹顿表厂自家研发的自动上链机芯，以及可替换的表带/链，全新表款适合配衬所有场合和风格。 Overseas 新品有两个版本供选择：带三指针和自动上链的简单款腕表，另一款是计时码表。

对比与反差

变形蜘蛛

意式风尚

这个传奇系列现在在形式和功能上都经过重新演绎，完美的书写工具以新尺寸呈现，带来更奢华的体验：万宝龙传承系列红与黑变形蜘蛛特别版钢笔 Montblanc Heritage Collection Rouge & Noir Spider Metamorphosis Special Edition 具有复古造型，重新诠释万宝龙在 1909 年创造的首批产品系列之一。变形蜘蛛特别版配高度抛光的黑色珍贵树脂笔盖，经典的万宝龙标志镶嵌于珊瑚红珍贵树脂当中，笔夹上还装饰着蜘蛛造型设计。此款钢笔还配有镀金笔尖，合成橙色宝石及特别的蜘蛛灰色墨水和笔芯，其灵感来自蜘蛛网的颜色。

全新 TOD'S（托德斯)2018 秋冬系列，表达意大利的美丽、历史和优雅。轻便、灵巧、细节精致的新款男鞋，包括三个款式，每款都搭配得宜，散发现代美感风格。其中，Winter Gommino 是标志性鞋款，搭配的鞋带和橡胶鞋底表现了驾驭精神；Wedge 鞋款，将经典软皮便鞋全新演绎，采用秋天色彩的真皮革和绒面革制成；最后一款是 Mask Boot 皮靴，以醒目带扣配衬真皮鞋跟，异常吸睛。

Spider metamorphosis Overseas in black It was 20 years ago that the Overseas model from Vacheron Constantin was born, a watch that symbolises the spirit of travel and escapism. Blending power and distinction, its blue dial evoked the maritime world. In 2018, it takes a new direction and sees a rebirth with a black dial, enhanced by the shimmer of its steel case. Perfect for all occasions and styles, the already characteristic 6-face bezel, the manufacturer’s self-winding calibre and the changeable bracelets appear in two versions: a simple model with three hands and automatic winding, and a chronograph model. www.vacheron-constantin.com

A legendary line, now reinterpreted in both form and function, with a new size and perfected writing resources for a more luxurious experience: the Montblanc Heritage Collection Rouge&Noir Spider Metamorphosis Special Edition has a vintage look and reimagines one of the first product lines created by Montblanc in 1909. Made from highly polished precious resin and with the traditional Montblanc emblem embedded in coral red precious resin, the pen is also adorned with a spider. It is complemented by goldcoated fittings, along with synthetic orange stones and its special Spider Grey ink and refills, inspired by the colour of a spider web. www.montblanc.com

COS 发布的 2018 秋冬系列主打立体形状、不协调的比例和特别的纹理反差。本季 COS 的设计看来是通过运用对比强烈的面料（如天然棉质纤维和技术性材料），将有机和人造元素相结合。用色上，新品呈现和谐的自然色谱。

Italian style Italian beauty, history and elegance are features that are markedly present in the new autumn/winter 2018 collection from TOD’S. Light, agile and with sophisticated details, the new men’s shoes are split into three models with modern combinations. Winter Gommino is the iconic model with laces and rubber sole that reflect the driving spirit; the Wedge, a new version of the classic moccasins that combine leather and suede in autumnal colours; and the Mask Boot, in which the buckle is the main feature, that come with a leather heel. www.tods.com

Contrasting feelings Sculptured forms, altered proportions and textural contrasts are the main characteristics of the fall/winter 2018 collection presented by COS. The pieces presented for this season look to combine the organic and the artificial through opposite fabrics, such as the natural fibres of cotton and technical materials. The chosen colour palette reveals harmony and is inspired by nature. www.cosstores.com

澳门精华 | 2018年 10月- 11月 | 83

古城一千零一夜 A thousand and one stories 自 1923 年开幕以来，传奇酒店 La Mamounia 就一直以最奢华典雅的方式，向世人展示摩洛哥式的温暖待客之道 Since it opened its doors in 1923, the legendary La Mamounia hotel has embodied Morocco’s warm hospitality in the most lavish and refined manner 文/by ALEXANDRA STILWELL

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Essential TRAVEL

943年，回忆起马拉喀什以及其冬日度假山庄La Mamounia的丘吉尔对罗斯福总统说道：“那是世上最美的一个地方。”有着精致迷人的花园、陶土色的流丽宫殿以及远处阿特拉斯山脉冰雪覆盖的山顶，我们相信丘吉尔的描述绝不夸张。这个传奇宫殿的故事起源于 12 世纪，当时，这里是深藏在马拉喀什城墙内的一个绿洲。六百年后，玛木王子（Al Mamoun）收到父亲送给自己的这座花园作为结婚礼物后，就以自己的名字为花园命名。时间流逝，1923 年 La Mamounia 正式以奢华酒店的身份迎来世人，展现着巧妙融合了阿拉伯与安达卢西亚审美的建筑以及艺术装饰风格。酒店近百年来经历了数次修整，而最近的一次设计则出自法国知名设计师雅克·加西亚之手。

距离马拉喀什旧城麦迪那区仅数步之遥，美丽迷人的 La Mamounia 近一个世纪以来吸引了众多名人与国家首脑纷至沓来。实际上，不少电影也选择了这个美丽的地方进行取景。两位穿着传统服装的高大门僮打开两扇庞大宫门后，一个华丽世界由此展开。踏入门中，酒店标志性的独特香薰扑面而来，阿特拉斯雪松、甜枣和新鲜柑橘混合的香气缭绕身畔，引人入胜。内里装饰铺陈神秘迷人，传统与现代的摩洛哥艺术交相辉映，既有手绘木质天花、蓝色、绿色与橙色的摩洛哥锦砖、彩色玻璃吊灯以及在摩洛哥文化中象征生命的清新喷泉，又有现代雕塑、绘画和照片。自然光与室内装饰光源相互交织，衬托着沙发、厚重窗帘与地毯的浓郁色彩与丰富质感，营造出一派异国情调。

eminiscing about Marrakesh and his winter home, La Mamounia, Winston Churchill declared to Franklin Roosevelt in 1943: “It is one of the most beautiful places in the world.” With exquisite walled gardens, an opulent terracotta-coloured palace and the snow-capped Atlas Mountains as a backdrop, we believe Mr Churchill was on the mark. The story of this legendary palace began in the 12th century, when it was an oasis sheltered behind Marrakesh’s ramparts. Six centuries later, Prince Al Mamoun, who received the gardens as a wedding gift from his father, named it after himself. Years passed and, in 1923, La Mamounia opened its doors as a luxurious hotel, offering a subtle blend of Arabic-Andalusian architecture 澳门精华 | 2018年 10月- 11月 | 85

已经历近百年的酒店虽然历史悠久，却以优雅的姿态进入了 21 世纪，现代化的舒适设施贯穿各处：高级定制时装店风格前卫的橱窗将您从充满历史感的阿拉伯世界带回现代，就连世界知名的巴黎甜点师皮埃尔·艾尔梅（Pierre Hermé）都在这里开设了专门店。每层楼的走廊都点缀着记录了摩洛哥人在不同场景中的黑白照片，带你深入了解这个北非古国。奢华流丽的房间既有经典客房，也有套房乃至拥有私享摩洛哥式天井的极致套房。客房全部以摩洛哥风格设计，墙上花砖砌出精致巧究的图案，室内点缀着精雕细琢的木质格栅、镀金镜子以及色彩缤纷的马赛克花砖地板。打开宽大的凸窗，信步来至设有舒适大扶手椅的私人阳台，您可在此一边享受冰镇桃红葡萄酒，一边眺望花园与山峦。大理石浴室感觉就像一个迷你版的土耳其浴场：墙上凿嵌出一堵马赛克沐浴墙，一旁是宽阔的独立浴缸，至于窗户，那当然亦是摩洛哥式的，而宽阔的客房甚至设有步入式衣帽间。酒店的设计早已让我们感受到十足的奢华，然而，这里的水疗中心，则又是另一个让人打开新一重感官惊喜的世界。这是一个 2,500 平方米的迷人空间，用传统土耳其浴室、按摩室、蒸汽浴与泳池，加上触感、声音与气味，撩拨身体。水疗中心的室内泳池曾是酒店的餐厅之一，这里是拍摄梦幻照片的完美之境：大型的马赛克柱子与白色拱门环绕着绿松石色的泳池，连木质天花与天窗，也覆盖着精致细腻的手绘图案。泳池后方， 86 | OCTOBER- NOVEMBER 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

and Art Deco style. Having undergone several refurbishments over the years, it was most recently redecorated by famous French interior designer Jacques Garcia. Just a few minutes’ walk from Marrakesh’s historical Medina, La Mamounia is an exceptional place which has attracted celebrities and heads of state for almost a century. In fact, several films were shot here; the setting is perfect. Two tall doormen in traditional dress open the large palace doors, revealing a glamorous world. As soon as you step in, you are instantly seduced by the hotel’s unique scent, one of its trademarks, a blend of Atlas cedar, sweet dates and fresh citrus. The decoration is just as intoxicating, rich in both traditional and modern Moroccan art, in the shape of hand-painted wooden ceilings, blue, green and orange zellige mosaics, coloured glass lanterns, refreshing fountains (the symbol of life in Moroccan culture), as well as modern sculptures, paintings and photography. Both natural light and interior lighting play a large part in the atmosphere, setting off the rich and colourful fabrics of the sofas, heavy curtains and carpets. The hotel may be almost a century old but it has gracefully jumped into the 21st century. Modern comforts are present throughout the hotel: Haute couture shops with modern window displays bring you back to the present day. Even Pierre Hermé, the world-famous Parisian

pastry chef, has opened shop here. On each floor, the corridors are lined with black and white photographs of Moroccan men and women in all sorts of sceneries, taking you on a journey to the heart of the country. The sumptuous rooms, ranging from classic to suites, and exceptional suites to private riads, are all decorated in a Moroccan style, with intricately patterned wall tiles, internal lattice-wood screens, gilded mirrors and colourful mosaictiled floors. Large bay windows lead onto private balconies with big armchairs, where you can sit with a glass of chilled rosé as you look out onto the gardens and the mountains. The marble bathrooms feel like a mini hammam, with an alcove mosaic shower, a large standalone bathtub and a Moroccan-style window. The larger rooms even have a walkin closet. As if the hotel’s decoration doesn’t arouse our senses sufficiently, there is a whole other sensorial universe to be discovered: the spa. This enchanting 2,500sqm space offers a traditional hammam, massage rooms, steam bath and pool, where touch, sound and smell come together to tantalise the body. The spa’s indoor pool, which was once one of the hotel’s restaurants, is the perfect location for a dream photoshoot: large mosaic-covered pillars and white arches surround the turquoise pool underneath a hand-painted wooden ceiling and skylight.

一张布满了白色超大抱枕的 “女神之床 ”等待着您坐于其上。风格截然不同的室外泳池同样美得惊艳。极简风格的宽阔方型泳池周遭布满棕榈树与绿植，一个 “小岛 ”上的四棵大棕榈树就像四个守卫般，守护着泳池中的宾客。搭着松软蓝色毛巾的泳池椅子背后，延绵着六公顷的花园，花园围墙内栽有 700 棵橙树、5,000 株玫瑰、21 种仙人掌、6 个棕榈品种以及 200 棵橄榄树，这里的一些植物更已历经数百年。宏伟的中央走廊半路上设有曼

泽雪糕和甜品店，您可以在此学习如何制作并以特有方式倒出摩洛哥薄荷茶。一个设有先进设备的健身中心与网球场一同隐藏在花园一角，而酒店的蔬菜花园就在其背后。在花园漫步后，餐前酒的时间就到了。选择哪种酒，视乎具体季节以及您的心情而定，您可以选择在泳池畔悠闲小酌，又或者前往意大利酒吧，在身穿单色摩洛哥长袍的侍者带领下入座，再由身着传统服饰的侍应前来为您点餐，然后在爵士音乐的陪伴下品啜一杯香槟。雪茄爱好者可以选择奢华典雅的丘

At the back, a “goddess bed” awaits with its white oversized cushions. The outdoor pool is equally stunning, but in a very different style. A large minimalistic square, surrounded by tall palm trees and greenery, features an “island” from which four large palm-trees keep a watchful eye over bathers. Beyond the deckchairs, with their fluffy blue towels, sprawl the six hectares of walled parkland filled with 700 orange trees, 5,000 rose bushes, 21 cactus species, 6 palm trees

澳门精华 | 2018年 10月- 11月 | 87

吉尔吧享受一杯鸡尾酒，而偏好更浓郁当地氛围的宾客，则可以在安达卢西亚露台品味摩洛哥茶。缤纷多元的选择，为生活增添滋味，而摩洛哥则正是一个风味纷繁的香料之国。所以， La Mamounia 酒店的用餐之选亦同样的丰富多彩。这里有四家餐厅：Le Marocain 用传统装潢与正宗风味引领您直抵摩洛哥烹饪艺术腹地；Le Français 是一家低调优雅的法式小馆；L’Italien 用充满层次感与张力的绯红色与

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金色营造一个热烈氛围，为宾客奉上高级意式餐饮体验。此外，Pavilion de la Piscine 是一个风格更为休闲的选择，全日提供清新怡人的池畔小食和鸡尾酒，酒店早餐设于这里，更让早餐也成为一种令人兴奋的奢侈享受 ——而面对丰盛自助餐时涌现的选择困难症，可能就是您下榻于此需面对的唯一压力。经历过这个考验后，您便可以融入这里美丽的环境中，冥想放松。丘吉尔所言不虚， “这里的确是世上最美的一个地方。”

species and 200 olive trees, some of which are centuries old. Halfway down the majestic central alley stands the Menzeh ice-cream and pastry shop, where you can learn to make and pour moroccan mint tea. A high-tech gym is tucked away in the garden along with the tennis courts, and right at the back is the hotel’s vegetable garden. After a stroll through the gardens, it is time for an apéritif. Depending on the time of year, and your mood, you can choose from a casual drink by the pool or sip a glass of champagne to the sound of the jazz band in the Italian bar, where hostesses dressed in monochrome Moroccan robes take you to your seat, while waiters in traditional dress come to take your order. Cigar lovers will enjoy a cocktail in the plush Churchill bar and those looking for a more authentic ambiance can drink a Moroccan tea in an Andalusian patio. Variety is the spice of life and there are plenty of flavourful spices in Morocco. So it’s no wonder that there are plenty of options to choose from when it comes to dining at La Mamounia. There are four restaurants: Le Marocain, an authentic journey to the culinary heart of the country in a traditional setting; Le Français, a sophisticated yet discrete brasserie; L’Italien, a fine-dining experience in an atmosphere in shades of dramatic crimson red and gold and, last but not least, the more casual Pavilion de la Piscine, open all day for

Essential TRAVEL

马拉喀什

马拉喀什有着截然不同的两面，一面是旧城散发的传统摩洛哥魅力，旧区麦地那的热烈风情无时无刻不冲击着您的感官；而马拉喀什现代化的一面，则是一个满布当代博物馆、精品店与餐厅的风尚之都，吸引着时尚光鲜的人们出没其中。必到地点巴西亚皇宫：一处充满了摩洛哥锦砖装饰的古代宫殿，这里的天花亦满布着摩洛哥传统 Zouaq 绘画。马拉喀什照片馆：位于麦地那老城中央的一间黑白照片博物馆。秘密花园：一个宁静葱郁的花园，是在街头集市畅快购物后的一个美好小憩之所。圣罗兰博物馆：时尚爱好者的必到之地，法国时装设计大师圣罗兰将马拉喀什视为自己的第二故乡，而这则是向圣罗兰致敬的博物馆麦地那旧城：这里隐藏着一整个奇异世界！准备好和的士司机以及小贩讲价，以及避开“热情的”兼职导游吧。这里展现的是往昔的马拉喀什，漫步于此，您不知不觉就会买下一大堆阿甘油、香料、地毯、烛台、摩洛哥拖鞋和篮子。如果想一睹当代摩洛哥陶瓷作品的风貌，那您可以前往 Chabi Chic。城中有数家类似精品店，售卖正宗的摩洛哥餐具及配饰。在新城里圣罗兰博物馆同一条街上，您可以走进 33 Rue Majorelle 挑选时尚配饰、鞋子甚至餐具。来了马拉喀什，又怎能不带走这里的标志性香薰呢？去 L’Atelier by Héritage Berbère 看看，用设计精致的瓶子带走这里的独特香气，让马拉喀什的气息陪伴着您。出外就餐 Nomad：位于麦地那旧城中心的一间时尚屋顶餐厅，将现代烹饪风格融入传统摩洛哥菜式。 Le Grand Café de la Poste：是一间殖民风格的法式小馆，提供休闲菜肴。 www.mamounia.com 쐽

refreshing poolside snacks or cocktails. Speaking of which, this is where breakfast is served and never has it been more indulgent and exciting. It is probably the only stress you will endure during your stay, having to choose from the ample buffet. Once that ordeal is over you can relax and contemplate your surroundings. Yes, Churchill was right, this is one of the most beautiful places in the world.

MARRAKESH There are two sides to Marrakesh, the traditional Moroccan charm of the old city, where the frenzy of the medina dazzles your senses, and the modern Marrakesh, a trendy city where fabulous contemporary museums, shops and restaurants attract the fashionable crowds. Must visit Bahia Palace, an ancient palace filled with zellige mosaics and Zouaq painted ceilings.

La Maison de la Photographie, a blackand-white photography museum in the centre of the Medina. Le Jardin Secret, a peaceful and lush garden, ideal for a break during your souq shopping expedition. Musée Yves Saint Laurent, a must-see for fashion lovers, an ode to the world-famous French fashion designer, who made Marrakesh his second home. The Medina. There is a whole world in there! Prepare yourself to negotiate prices with taxi drivers, vendors and turn away eager “freelance” guides. This is the old school Marrakesh, where you won’t resist stocking up on Argan oil, spices, carpets, candle holders, babouches and baskets. For a modern take on Moroccan pottery, pop into Chabi Chic. There are several of these shops around town, selling authentic Moroccan kitchenware and accessories. In the new part of town, on the same street as the Musée Yves Saint Laurent, wonder around 33 Rue Majorelle for some fashionable accessories, shoes and even some kitchenware, and because you cannot leave Marrakesh without its iconic scents, stop by L’Atelier by Héritage Berbère and pick up one of its distinctive scents in a beautifully designed bottle. Eating out Nomad, a trendy rooftop restaurant in the heart of the Medina serving Moroccan dishes with a contemporary twist. Le Grand Café de la Poste, a French brasserie in colonial style, serving casual cuisine. www.mamounia.com 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 10月- 11月 | 89

Essential DRINK

最璀璨的明星 The brightest star 虽然孟买蓝宝石金酒(Bombay Sapphire)是在 20 世纪 80 年代末的美国由一名法国人打造，但如今已被视为一款经典的英式金酒。目前归入国际烈酒巨头百加得旗下的孟买蓝宝石金酒，正在有效地追本塑源 Despite having been born in the late 1980s at the hands of a Frenchman in the USA, Bombay Sapphire as we know it today can be considered a classic British gin. Now, owned by the multinational giant Bacardi Limited, the brand effectively cultivates its origins 文/by CÉSAR BRIGANTE 摄影 /photos TIAGO MAYA

90 | OCTOBER- NOVEMBER 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential DRINK

014年秋开始运营的孟买蓝宝石酒厂，是其用于打造身份的最有力证明。这座现代化酒厂位于英国汉普郡的惠特彻奇乡郊，距离《唐顿庄园》拍摄地——著名的海克利尔城堡——只有20分钟。酒厂也成为一个有趣的旅游景点，同时是可持续发展楷模，获奖无数，非常值得探索一番。孟买蓝宝石金酒系列可追溯至 1761 年，当时伦敦还处于 “全民狂喝金酒 ”时期的余波中。就在当时，达金(Dakin)家族在沃灵顿镇建立酒厂，而这也成为其最初的名字：沃灵顿金酒。

酒厂当时配备创新的“卡特头壶型蒸馏器 ”(Carterhead stills)，这造就出沃灵顿金酒的特色风味。药草是一切金酒的灵魂，而在卡特头蒸馏器里，药草并非泡在沸水中，而是放在蒸馏器顶部圆柱的一个多孔容器内，然后让蒸汽慢慢扩散蒸馏。据专家所说，这作法使金酒拥有独特的轻盈风味。 19 世纪下半叶，酒厂连同沃灵顿金酒秘方，被出售予格里诺尔 (Greenall)家族的 G&J 蒸馏酒公司，这款金酒也被易名，开始上市发售。在 20 世纪 50 年代，一名酒类进口商亚兰·苏斌 (Alain Subin)想到既然干马天尼受

he Bombay Sapphire distillery, opened in autumn 2014, is the most evident testament to the construction of an identity. Located in the English countryside, in Whitchurch in Hampshire, just 20 minutes from the famous Highclere castle where the series Downton Abbey was filmed, this modern distillery is also an interesting tourist attraction and an awardwinning model of sustainability, which is well worth discovering. The lineage of Bombay Sapphire dates back to the year 1761, in which London was

澳门精华 | 2018年 10月- 11月 | 91

Essential DRINK

追捧，于是决定将沉寂的沃灵顿金酒进口至美国，认为其较轻盈的风味将会受到欢迎。该金酒的新生，部分有赖于其新名字“孟买干金酒”，这名字更主要是为其保留一份异国情调以吸引美国人。事实证明策略成功，“孟买干金酒”获得认可。但不幸的是，干马天尼的吸引力正逐渐消亡。在 80 年代，得益于盛行的夜生活产业，酒业加速发展，但金酒却受到前所未有的冷落。后来那名点石成金的商人米歇尔 ·鲁 (Michel Roux)出现了：在掀起 92 | OCTOBER- NOVEMBER 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

一股“绝对伏特加”浪潮后，他用类似的策略对正在消亡的“孟买干金酒”进行大变身。全新的形象和名字均围绕着璀璨的“孟买之星” 蓝宝石 — — 一枚在上世纪 20 年代影星中备受欢迎的 182 克拉宝石。当时的影星范朋克 (Douglas Fairbanks)曾向夫人玛丽 ·毕克馥 (Mary Pickford)赠送这枚宝石，这使 “孟买蓝宝石金酒”这个新名字具有一种奢华的内涵，而这对该款金酒的重新定位来说至关重要。巧妙的蓝瓶设计搭配艺术装饰风格的线条，

experiencing the aftermath of the fateful “gin craze” period. It was during that time that the Dakin family built its distillery in the area of Warrington, which would give the name to the spirit that would arise from there. The innovative Carterhead stills, with which the distillery was equipped, would later define the style of Warrington Gin. Rather than being immersed in ebullition, the botanicals (which are the soul of any gin) were placed in a perforated receptacle at the top of the still column, where they were slowly infused in the steam. According to experts, this is what gave it a unique lightness. In the second half of the 19th century, the distillery was sold to the Greenall family (G&J Distillers), along with the gin recipe that started to be sold with another name. In the 1950s, the drinks importer Alain Subin, while trying to capitalise on the popularity of dry martini, decided to import the dormant Warrington Gin to sell to the US, where it was believed that its lighter notes would be appreciated. Part of its new life was the designation Bombay Dry Gin, more in keeping with an exotic gin able to seduce the Americans. The strategy worked and Bombay Dry Gin gained ground. However, the draw of dry martini was gradually extinguishing. In the ‘80s, at a time when the alcohol business intensified thanks to the flourishing nightlife industry, gin was at an all-time low. That’s when Michel Roux appeared: a marketeer with a Midas touch who, after creating the Absolut Vodka phenomenon, undertook a similar Uturn with the dying Bombay Gin. A new image and new name was developed around the splendorous “Star of Bombay” sapphire, a 182-carat stone that became famous amongst film stars in the 1920s. Douglas Fairbanks and Mary Pickford gave the newly entitled Bombay Sapphire a luxurious connotation that was crucial to its repositioning. The ingenious blue bottle with Art Deco lines gave it the desired prominence on the shelves of bars and nightclubs the world over, while the iconic image of Queen Victoria worked like a daring royal seal, establishing a link to the imperial past and instilling it with a valuable touch of respectability. The original advertising campaign, carefully centred on the fields of fashion, art and lifestyle, turned it into a highly desired product. But while image was important, the content couldn’t be overlooked, and so Michel Roux, along with master distiller Ian Hamilton, assessed the botanical formula that they basically maintained, but added two new ingredients without ever abandoning the peculiar infusion system. Michel Roux’s intervention is a case study in the spirits industry, and continues to show results more than three decades later. Throughout this time, Bombay Sapphire never lost its

Essential DRINK

让“孟买蓝宝石金酒”在全世界酒吧和夜店的酒架上都获得期望中的关注度，而维多利亚女王的标志形象则大胆地为该金酒赋予了一种皇室印记，让人联想到曾经的大英帝国，从而为其注入一丝尊崇感。最初的广告活动也都小心集中在时尚、艺术和时尚生活领域，使得此款金酒大受追捧。虽然形象很重要，但内涵也不可忽视，因此米歇尔找到蒸馏酒大师伊恩 ·汉密尔顿 (Ian Hamilton)一起研究药草配方，最终原有的配方被基本保留，但加入两种新配料。而一直没变的，是至今仍在使用的特殊蒸汽灌注系统——卡特头壶型蒸馏器。米歇尔的介入已成为烈酒行业的一项经典案例，在 30 多年后的今天依然结出硕果。这一次， “孟买蓝宝石金酒 ” 一直保持势头，更开发出丰富的酒款，至今仍是全世界最畅销的金酒之一。除上述之外，还有其他与“孟买蓝宝石金酒 ”以及所有金酒的历史密切相关的有趣故事，这些故事也反映出蒸馏酒和药草世界的发展历程 — — 而这一切，都可在惠特彻奇的“孟买蓝宝石金酒”蒸馏酒厂中看到。酒厂由著名建筑师托马斯 ·赫斯维克 (Thomas Heatherwick)设计，由拉弗斯托克纸厂 (Laverstoke Mill)改造而成。这是一座拥有 300 年历史的纸厂，造出的纸张曾被用于英格兰银行印制纸币，甚至在某段时期也用于印度的纸币。酒厂的改造也包括活化三幢被列入文物保护的建筑，而酒厂所在环境拥有壮丽的自然风光，亮点之一是泰斯特河(River Test)，其晶莹剔透的河水流穿酒厂的建筑群 ——虽然河水并不用于制酒，但却颇具象征意义地反映出金酒制作中的重要元素，而这是有时会被人忽视的。活化改造让其成为一间设备先进且功能强大的蒸馏酒厂，同时成为获奖的可持续发展和节能楷模。如此，应该也有必要在厂内建立一个游客中心，以将这新酒厂纳入当地的景点地图中。酒厂建筑群本身已是一个地标，而其中最引人注目的是两个用金属结构支撑的玻璃温室 — — 让我们想起自 20 世纪初开始出现的玻璃大楼，设计上是从酒厂其中一幢建筑的顶部延伸出来并俯冲入泰斯特河中，犹如一条支流。两个温室一湿一干，其中种着若干植物，而 “孟买蓝宝石金酒 ”中多样的药草配料就萃取于此。旁边还有一个小亭阁，让游客近距离接触这些药草，有趣且极具感官刺激。此外，还可以自行混搭药草，然后将根据你的个人口味由酒厂现场的酒吧——The Mill Bar 将这些药草配入你的金酒中。酒厂开放参观的时间是每天早上 11 点至下午 4 点，游客可现场观看制酒流程。而在另一个房间，除了会举办品酒大师班之外，也能让人一览金酒的演化历程，尤其是 “孟买蓝宝石金酒 ”的历史。酒厂内还有展出艺术品——全都是该金酒品牌在全世界举办的玻璃杯设计比赛的作品。这些比赛也是由米歇尔·鲁发起，进一步使“孟买蓝宝石金酒” 成为烈酒界的真正明星。 쐽

momentum, with a wide portfolio and still one of the best-selling gins in the world today. This and other interesting stories that are intimately linked to the history of Bombay Sapphire and of gin in general, as well as representing a journey through the distillation process and the world of botanicals, can be observed at the Bombay Sapphire distillery in Whitchurch. The distillery, designed by the renowned architect Thomas Heatherwick, in Laverstoke Mill – a 300-year-old paper factory, which produced the paper that went on to make the notes for the Bank of England and at one point even for India – also included recovering an infrastructure with three listed buildings and surroundings of great natural beauty, a highlight of which is the Test river, whose crystalline water crosses the complex and which, although not used to this end, comprises a symbolic reference to an important element in gin production, which is sometimes forgotten. Along with this renovation of the space, which turned it into a state-of-the-art, highly functional distillery and an award-winning example of sustainability and energy efficiency, there was also the need to endow the space with a visitors’ centre that would put this new

distillery on the region’s tourist attraction map. The most notable element of this complex, which is already a landmark, are two glass greenhouses with a metal structure, that reminds us of the glass buildings from the early 20thcentury, which arise from the top of one of the buildings to dive into the river as if it where a stream of water. One wet and the other dry, inside they house several plants from which the diverse components of Bombay Sapphire’s botanical formula are extracted. Right next door is a small pavilion that, in a fun and sensorial way, provides contact with these same botanicals. It is also possible to compose our own mixture, which is then served in a gin in The Mill Bar according to our own personal taste. During the visits to the distillery, which take place every day from 11am to 4pm, visitors can watch the production cycle in loco. In another room, which also holds the masterclasses, there is a perspective of the evolution of gin, with a focus on the history of Bombay Sapphire. There are also pieces on display, a result of the glass design competition that the brand has organised over the years, another of Roux’s initiatives that helped turned Bombay Sapphire into a true star in the world of spirits. 쐽

澳门精华 | 2018年 10月- 11月 | 93

Essential RESTAURANTS

94 | OCTOBER- NOVEMBER 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential RESTAURANTS

澳门三家私厨为宾客提供顶尖美食体验 Three Private kitchens provide elevated dining in Macau 也许您惯于到澳门的众多餐厅大快朵颐，此次，《澳门精华》酒店探访城内最好的私厨，为美食迷呈献量身定制的精致美食体验 For anyone accustomed to the excess they encounter in many restaurants in Macau, Essential Macau rounds up the best private kitchens in town for food lovers to enjoy a tailored dining experience 文/by EDWINA LIU

于澳门君悦酒店品味顶级私房菜

澳门君悦酒店「37 楼私房菜」的高端餐饮服务，为宾客提供不同凡 “享 ” 的特别晚餐，让你在新濠天地魅力建筑的瑰丽灯影之下享用高端私厨餐饮。位于 37 楼的四间时尚独立的私人贵宾房，可容纳 8-12 位宾客在尊贵典雅氛围中用餐。酒店的多家著名餐厅（满堂彩、mezza9 Macau 等）的专业烹饪团队，将为食客度身定制美味菜谱。宾客可享用满堂彩的老式果木烤鸭，也可选取 mezza9 Macau 提供的时尚国际风味美食，亦能点选大堂酒廊的传统土生葡式甜点。 37 楼私房菜備有三套中式晚宴菜单和三套西式晚宴菜单供客选择。五款精心设计的专业餐桌布置，将为宾客的私房菜餐饮体验更添品位。私人贵宾房的餐具摆设，全都采用世界著名的顶级餐具品牌产品，包括巴卡莱特 (Baccarat)、 Baccarat 和 Bernardaud。客人可根据场合选择心仪的布置主题。预订方式：拨打电话+853 8868 1234

GRAND HYATT MACAU - THE HIGHEST LEVEL OF PRIVATE DINING

Private dining on the 37th floor of Grand Hyatt Macau is a great option for a special dinner accompanied by the twinkling lights of the towers of City of Dreams. Four stylishly appointed Private Dining Rooms on the 37th floor offer a VIP ambience for 8-12 guests. Professional culinary teams from signature restaurants in the hotel will create a tailored gourmet menu for diners. Guests can select their favourite dishes including the signature Traditional Beijing Style Duck from Beijing Kitchen, contemporary international plates from mezza9 Macau, and traditional Macanese delights from Lobby Lounge. There have three Chinese set menus and Western set menu for guests to choose from. To provide the best dinning atmosphere, the private dining room offers five professionally designed table settings with world famous tableware brands Raynaud, Baccarat and Bernardaud, suitable for every occasion. Reservation Details: Call +853 8868 1234 澳门精华 | 2018年 10月- 11月 | 95

Essential RESTAURANTS

正宗意大利珍饈盡在「Tommy’s Private Kitchen」

Tommy 是家位于高士德大马路，少为人知的私厨的创办人，他是一位经验丰富的厨师，曾在餐馆和酒店工作过。在酒店工作时，他觉得那里的环境严重限制了他为客户烹饪菜肴的自由，因此他辞职后开设了自己的私人厨房。 Tommy 的私厨已经开业八年，专供高品质意大利美食。所有食材都是从欧洲进口， Tommy 会根据时令食材为宾客定制菜单。当客人预订餐桌时，Tommy 会询问他们的喜好和价格范围，然后再向他们建议合适的菜谱。他希望食客在自己的餐厅尽情享受每一刻，所以竭尽全力呈现最佳美食。在私厨吃晚餐最美妙的是，厨师可以因应宾客的特殊场合所需来规划个性化菜单。 96 | OCTOBER- NOVEMBER 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential RESTAURANTS Tommy 忆起一次令人难忘的经历：他为一位男宾客准备了一个求婚晚餐，帮助该名男士在每道菜中都传达了一些秘密信息，最终他的女神欣然接受其求婚。餐厅的招牌菜是黑松露披萨，以自制饼底配上分量十足的法国黑松露。这款秘制披萨非常香脆，但仍然韧性口感十足。 Tommy 的私人厨房可容纳三张餐桌子和十位客人，用餐必须提前一周预订。预订方式：电子邮件 tommyprivatekitchen@gmail.com

TOMMY PRIVATE KITCHEN - HIDDEN AUTHENTIC ITALIAN CUISINE

Tommy, the founder of a hidden private kitchen in Avenida de Horta e Costa is an experienced chef who has worked in restaurants and hotels. Whilst working in hotels he felt the environment quite restricted him from cooking dishes for clients, thus he quit to set up his private kitchen. The private kitchen - open for eight years serves high quality Italian food. With all his produce imported from Europe, Tommy uses

this to decide upon the menu for his guests. When guests reserve a table, Tommy will ask them for their preference and price range before suggesting an appropriate menu for them. He wants guests to enjoy every moment in his restaurant and pays much effort to presentation. The best thing about eating dinner in a private kitchen is that the chef can personalise the menu for your special occasion. Tommy recalls a memorable experience when he prepared a proposal dinner, helping the gentlemen in question put some secret message in every dish - to the delight of the lady who accepted his proposal of marriage. The signature dish of the restaurant is the black truffle pizza, featuring homemade dough topped with generous portions of black truffles from France. The secret recipe means the pizza is very crispy but still chewy. Tommy’s private kitchen can accommodate three tables and ten guests, who are asked to make reservations a week ahead. Reservation Details: Send E-mail to tommyprivatekitchen@gmail.com

澳门精华 | 2018年 10月- 11月 | 97

到「Café Bonbon 品·啡」领略法南浪漫滋味

Café Bonbon 品 ·啡隐藏在澳门旧城中心一条安静的小巷中。在白天，它供应由咖啡店创办人、主厨 Betty 制作的各式甜点，也供应意粉等简餐。晚上，咖啡店变身私人厨房，厨师 Betty 为客人量身定制美味的晚餐——从餐单到摆设。厨师 Betty 从小就对烹饪着迷，赴法国参加了一个短期课程后，她发现自己注定要成为一名厨师。返回澳门后，她花了一年时间作出国留学的准备。一年后，她辞工前往巴黎，到蓝带厨艺学院 Le Cordon Bleu 修读甜品师和烹饪师课程。 “拥有一家咖啡店是我的梦想；一间好咖啡点必须提供好咖啡和美味甜点，所以我在澳门学会了调制咖啡，在巴黎学做甜品，” 她说。“巴黎是甜品之都，所以如果我想学习制作甜点，我必须到巴黎学。” 热爱法国南部的她，学成回澳后，开设了自己的餐厅：Café Bonbon 品·啡。法南情调是餐厅设计的灵感。最初，Café Bonbon 只供应咖啡、甜品和意粉。 98 | OCTOBER- NOVEMBER 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

CAFÉ BONBON - ROMANTIC TASTE OF THE SOUTH OF FRANCE

Café Bonbon is hidden in a quiet lane in the old city centre of Macau. In the daytime, it serves an array of desserts made by Chef Betty, founder of the café, which serves simple food like pasta. At night, the café turns into a private kitchen, with Chef Betty tailor-making a wonderful dinner for guests - from menu to decorations. Chef Betty has been fascinated by cooking since she was young, and by chance went on a short course in France to discover that she was fated to be a chef. Upon returning to Macau she took a year to prepare to study abroad. One year later, she quit her job and went to Paris, studying desserts and cooking in Le Cordon Bleu. “To have a café was my dream; a good café must have good coffee and dessert, so I learned making coffee in Macau and making dessert in Paris,” she said. “Paris is the capital of desserts, so if I wanted to learn making desserts I had to be there.”

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给予宾客美好且美味的回忆是她的理念。 “我喜欢为家人和朋友烹饪；当我的咖啡店生意变得稳定时，我开始想为客人烹调菜式。” 现在，Betty 不仅在 Café Bonbon 提供私房菜服务，还为客户提供上门餐饮服务。 “一些高端客希望有更私密的服务，所以我会将厨房搬到他们的家中，并在他们熟悉的地方给他们提供餐厅式服务。”她说。 “曾有一位特别的客人 ;丈夫想在结婚周年纪念为爱妻带来惊喜。他邀请我到他们家里，为他们个性化订制菜谱，妻子非常感动，他们度过了美好的一晚。” 客人可以品尝正宗的法式美食。“大部分食材都是从法国进口的，但我也使用一些优质的本地当季食材或我在旅途中找到的任何独特成分。” 用餐需提前一周透过 Café Bonbon 的 Facebook 专页预订，主厨 Betty 将致电客人了解他们的喜好和价格范围以编制菜单。这间私厨可容纳 10 位客人就餐。预订方式：电子邮件 service@bonbonmacau.com 或 Facebook Café Bonbon 品·啡 쐽

An avid admirer of the South of France, upon returning home she set up her own restaurant - Café Bonbon - with the concept inspired by the feeling of the South of France. In the beginning, Café Bonbon only offered coffee, dessert and pasta. Good, delicious memories for guests is her philosophy. “I love cooking for my family and friends; when my café’s business became stable, I started to think of cooking for guests.” Now, Betty not only provides a private kitchen service in Café Bonbon but also provides a home dining service for clients. “Some upscale guests want to have more private service, so I will move my kitchen to their home and give them a restaurant service but in their familiar place.” she says. “There was a special guest; the husband wanted to surprise his wife for their anniversary. He invited me to personalise a menu in their house - the wife was very touched and they had a good time.” Guests here can taste authentic France cuisine. “Most of the produce is imported from France, but I also use some good quality seasonal local ingredients or any unique ingredients I find on my trips.” Reservations should be made a week in advance via Café Bonbon’s Facebook, Chef Betty will call guests to understand their preferences and price range to make up the menu. This private kitchen can accommodate ten guests. Reservation Details: send E-mail to service@bonbonmacau.com or send massage trough Facebook Café Bonbon品·啡 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 10月- 11月 | 99

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享受顶级中式餐饮体验 Enjoy the highest level of Chinese dining 随《精华》杂志探索澳门中式餐饮新境界 Follow Essential Macau to discover the new level of Chinese dining in Macau 文/by EDWINA LIU

粤

语中有言“不时不食”，这一历史悠久的饮食哲言是说只吃应季食物。受此启发的天颐餐厅是亚洲唯一一间提供 Omakase 厨师发办打理的中餐厅。 “我们希望开设一间与众不同的中餐厅。 ‘没有菜单 ’的理念既让厨师有发挥创意的机会，也让顾客有机会体验更精彩的中式美食，”摩珀斯行政总厨范健华表示。天颐餐厅——这间当代中式高级餐厅就座落在澳门最新地标、新濠天地摩珀斯 21 楼的高空天桥上。餐厅由已故建筑设计传奇扎哈 ·哈蒂德（Zaha Hadid）设计，空间感十足，设有 12 张餐桌，餐桌被 8 个龙鳞式设计的金色半月形屏风包围，既为顾客提供了隐私空间，同时还能饱览酒店迷人的花园景色。餐厅的诸多细节中都隐藏着较传统的中式元素，如五行元素。“在餐具上我们能看到 ’金 ’，这是我们花了一年时间才找到的完美餐具，在家具中体现 ’木 ’，餐厅中的 ’水 ’、’火 ’相容，以及陶土餐具中的 ’土 ’，” 他继续解释。天颐餐厅引人注目的陶瓷餐具由曾嘉琪设计室定制设计，设计师特意为这个全新系

100 | OCTOBER- NOVEMBER 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

列赋予了自然主题和吉祥寓意。装饰盘来自著名的法国顶级瓷器品牌 Bernardaud，品牌为天颐餐厅特别设计了镶金边餐盘，并饰有精美桃花，寓意中国文化中的吉祥如意。 “尽管我们是当代中式餐厅，我们绝不是融合餐厅。我们谨遵悠久的中国历史文化，专注于呈现传统的中式烹饪，”范先生表示。天颐餐厅的厨房里没有冰柜；厨师只选用最新鲜的食材烹饪，海鲜也都是当日捕获送来的。在天颐餐厅，会有经验丰富的茶艺师为顾客精心推荐与菜式搭配的茗茶，荟萃传统和现代，令餐飨体验极致升华。天颐餐厅的气泡水来自青岛崂山，该地区水质以富含矿物质而闻名遐迩。令顾客惊喜的是，餐厅在顾客预订时了解了顾客的喜好后，厨师会根据每日在市场上甄选的新鲜食材为顾客打造专属菜单。 “我们一直都去本地市场采购，和果蔬店的关系也都很好！”范先生笑着说。自开业以来，天颐餐厅饱受好评，餐厅还有一位厨师颇受顾客褒扬，也让餐厅名声更大，这位厨师就是黄赞奇。黄赞奇生长在一

he Cantonese saying ‘bu shi bu shi’ is a time honoured philosophy of eating only what is in season. Inspired by this idea, Yí restaurant is the only Chinese restaurant to offer Omakase style - ‘leave it to the chef ’, in Japanese - in Asia. “We want to open a unique Chinese restaurant. The ‘no menu’ concept gives our chefs the opportunity to be more creative and guests can also have a more exciting dining experience,” says Wilson Fam, Executive Chef of Morpheus. This contemporary Chinese fine dining is located on the sky bridge on the 21st floor of Macau’s newest destination - Morpheus at City of Dreams. The spacious area - featuring 12 tables with 8 dragon-scales-inspired golden semidomes designed by late legendary architect Zaha Hadid – affords guests beautiful garden views. More traditional Chinese elements such as the five elements are hidden in the details of the restaurant. “We can find ‘gold’ in our tableware that we spent one year to find, ‘wood’ in the furniture, ‘water’ and ‘fire’ in the restaurant and ‘earth’ in our manmade earth ports,” he continues. Yi’s eye-catching ceramic tableware has been custom-designed by Monica Tsang Designs, who have applied the themes of nature and fortune to these exclusive new collections. The show plates come courtesy of illustrious French tableware brand Bernardaud, which has designed an exclusive gold-rimmed plate for Yí featuring delicate peach blossoms symbolic of fortune and luck in Chinese culture. “Although we are a contemporary Chinese restaurant, we are definitely not a fusion restaurant. We follow time-honoured Chinese history and focus on traditional Chinese cooking,” says Fam. There are no freezers in Yí’s kitchen; chefs select only the freshest ingredients, with freshly caught seafood delivered daily. At Yí, diners can choose to have a tea pairing option with their meal carefully curated by experienced tea sommeliers which fuses the traditional with the modern. The Yí team has also

Essential CHEFS

个香港围村，母亲终日为一大家人做饭，受其耳濡目染，他自小对烹饪情有独钟。 “我家祖籍潮州，潮州美食远近闻名。母亲来自顺德，是广东著名的美食之都。自幼年起，这些都鼓舞着我对烹饪的兴趣，”黄赞奇说。“我还喜欢看日本卡通片《中华小当家》（Chūka Ichiban，讲述了一个立志成为主厨的的男孩的故事）” 当黄赞奇要做出事业抉择时，厨师或警察是当时很受欢迎的两个职业。“我害怕单调的工作，因此选择成为厨师，”他说，“因为厨师可以在不同的餐厅里为不同的食客烹饪许多不同的菜式。” 20 世纪末到 21 世纪初他在美心集团进修了厨艺，后来先后加入马可波罗太子酒店和香港四季酒店并树立了自己的名声，接着又在君汇港会所、大公馆及知名的好酒好蔡精进自己的厨艺。此外，他还在过去 12 年间参加了各种本地和国际烹饪大赛，并获得奖项。黄赞奇受朋友引荐加入了中式高级餐厅天颐餐厅的烹饪团队，他负责监督管理来自中国各省的专业厨师，为经典中式菜式融入出众的现代气息。 “作为厨师，我总是受到新挑战的启发，”他说，“能有机会为宾客呈现令他们长期难忘的独特美食——这正是我们每天在天颐餐厅努力的目的所在。” 虽然黄大厨烹饪高级美食的经验丰富，但他的烹饪方式却是尽量保持菜式简约整洁，因为他希望保留食材的本真味道：“我希望菜式出品尽量简洁，盘中的每样食材都不是点缀——什么都不会浪费，”他解释到。天颐餐厅的每道菜都是一人份，不像传统的中餐厅是大份菜式。 “我并不认为我们的菜式是西式出品。当厨师采用中式食材和技巧烹饪西餐时，人们也不会觉得那是中餐。相反，如果我们只采用现代出品方式，人们会认为我们做的是西餐。这对我们有些不公平，”黄赞奇说。卤水粿汁是黄厨师的招牌菜式，这道菜是驰名的潮州菜。 “我对这道菜做了些细小的改进。比如，我会使用鹿儿岛黑豚肉（日本产猪肉）配上糖心蛋慢慢烹制。”粿条也是他按照传统配方手工制作的。天颐的另一道必尝菜式是香茅乳鸽。大部分餐厅一般都在烤乳鸽前先把乳鸽煮熟以节约烹饪时间；天颐的厨师会直接烤腌制后的乳鸽，这些乳鸽来自中山石岐，养了 23 天，肉嫩汁多。他说，这样烹饪可以保留乳鸽无与伦比的美味肉汁。这道菜也是天颐餐厅唯一一道顾客可以用手吃的菜式，用手的话，会觉得乳鸽味道更佳。 “我相信努力创新非常重要，我的团队和我在努力忠于传统中式美食精髓的同时也在不断寻找新的方法为顾客奉上难忘的味蕾盛宴之旅，”黄赞奇总结道。 쐽

sourced its sparkling water from Laoshan, an area in Qingdao renowned for its mineral-rich water sources. As a surprise for guests, having discerned their food preference during reservation, Chef will design a menu based upon the fresh ingredients they can find every day in the market. “We always go to the local wet market - and we have a good relationship with the greengrocers!” Fam laughs. Since opening, Yí has received many positive comments, with another meritorious person in the restaurant - Chef de Cuisine Angelo Wong – helping consolidate its reputation. Wong, who grew up in a village in Hong Kong, credits his mother, who cooked for her big family, with nurturing his love of cooking since he was very young. “My family comes from Chaozhou, a city famous for its food. My mum comes from Shunde, a city in Guangdong known as the city of cooking. All this has encouraged my interest in cooking since I was young,” says Wong. “I also loved watching the Japanese cartoon Chuka Ichiban! (revolving around a boy whose aim is to become a master chef)” When Wong was contemplating his choice of career, being a chef or a policeman were popular career hoices. “I was afraid of a boring job so I chose to be a chef,” he says, “because a chef can cook many different dishes for different guests in different restaurants.” Having learned his trade at Maxim’s in the late 1990s and early 2000s, Chef Wong made his name at the Marco Polo Prince Hotel and the Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, perfecting his

resume at the Harbour Green Club, Greater China Club and renowned Howard’s. In addition, he has entered various local and global culinary competitions over the past 12 years, winning several awards. Recommended by a friend, Chef Wong has joined the culinary team of Chinese fine dining restaurant Yí, where he oversees a team of specialist cooks from several Chinese provinces to bring a distinctly modern edge to a variety of classic Chinese dishes. “As a chef, I’m always inspired by new challenges,” he says, “and the opportunity to create unique culinary experiences that guests will remember for a long time - and that is what we aim to do every day at Yí.” Although Chef Wong has a rich experience in fine dining his cooking style is to keep dishes simple and clean because he wants to maintain the original taste of the ingredients: “I want to make the presentation as clean as possible, with most of the things on the dish to be eaten nothing can be wasted,” he explains. At Yí, Wong serves dishes for one-person portions, unlike the traditional Chinese restaurants filling up big plates. “I won’t say we’re using Western style presentation. When chefs use Chinese ingredients and techniques for Western cuisine, people won’t think they’re cooking Chinese cuisine. Instead, if we just use a contemporary presentation people will think we are cooking Western food. It’s a bit unfair to us,” says Wong. Homemade Rice Noodle with Soy Braised Pork Belly, Eggs, Pork Ears and Bean Curd is the signature dish of Chef Wong – all famous in his Chaozhou hometown. “I’ve made some tiny updates in this dish. For example, I slow cook the Kurobuta (Japanese Pork) to accompany the soft-boiled egg.” Even the rice noodles are handmade by chef according to a traditional recipe. Another must-try dish is Roasted Lemongrass Pigeon. Most restaurants normally boil the pigeon before roasting it to save time; at Yí, chef will roast the fermented juicy 23-day old pigeons from Shiqi directly without boiling. Cooking in this way, he says, can retain the juice of the pigeon for an incomparably delicious flavour. And chef says it is the only dish in the restaurant which guests can eat with their hands, making it much more yummy. “I believe it’s important to strive for innovation,” concludes Chef Wong, “and so my team and I are constantly looking for new ways to take guests on memorable gastronomic journeys while staying true to the spirit of traditional Chinese cuisine.” 쐽 澳门精华 | 2018年 10月- 11月 | 103

莅临韩国济洲岛，探索多重感官体验 Multi adventures in Jeju! 跟随《澳门精华》的足迹，畅游精彩刺激的济州神话世界 Join Essential Macau on a tour of Jeju Shinhwa World

济

州神话世界位于韩国济州岛西南角，是韩国有数的几个综合度假村之一，占地面积约 250 万平方米，拥有数之不尽的精彩景点和刺激娱乐项目，适合所有年龄段的游客。完美假期当然既要精彩刺激，又要奢享和放松。济州神话世界深谙这三者之间的完美平衡之道，务求为宾客打造极致难忘的假期。

客房景致，美不胜收

济州神话世界被济州岛美丽绝伦的 Gotjwal(树石森林 )围绕。神话世界包罗全球多家豪华酒店品牌的酒店物业，共提供 2,000 多间客房，有多种房型供选择，宾客可根据自己的住宿需求作决定，无论您是来旅游、休闲还是娱乐，都能找到满意之选。济州神话世界度假酒店 –神话于 2018 年新开业，是综合度假圣殿济州神话世界的最新设施。从标准高级客房到宽敞的小型套房，济州度假酒店的所有 533 间客房，均以极度放松和舒适为设计理念。酒店还设有无边际高空泳池，从泳池可饱览神话世界水上乐园全景，而踏足顶楼更可欣赏到壮丽的森林景色。济州度假酒店靠近神话世界水上乐园、神话主题公园以及提供丰富美味餐饮的神话美食园，是家庭的最佳住宿之选。 104 | OCTOBER- NOVEMBER 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

家庭同乐，无限精彩

济州神话世界为宾客提供一系列魅力无限、令人振奋的家庭娱乐项目，包括让人叹为观止的神话主题公园。主题公园是个专为孩子和童心未泯的成年人而设的梦幻空间，备有受全世界人喜爱的动画人物。此外，这里还有令人兴奋的变形金刚汽车人联盟，在这里，宾客可以与柯博文、大黄蜂一起，成为守护地球的最后骑士对于渴望全面体验这三个精彩刺激项目的爱冒险玩家，济州神话世界推出了一天及两天期限的神话探险通行证（一天通行证售价：49,000 韩元；两天通行证：59,000 韩元）。

ocated in the south-western corner of Jeju Island, South Korea, Jeju Shinhwa World is one of several integrated resorts in South Korea, occupying a land mass of approximately 2.5 million square metres, with countless attractions for all ages. The perfect vacation is a fine balance of excitement, indulgence and relaxation, a mix that Jeju Shinhwa World has expertly mastered.

ROOMS WITH A VIEW Surrounded by Jeju’s marvellous Gotjwal Forest, Jeju Shinhwa World provides more than 2,000 rooms offering a variety of global brand luxury hotels with a wide range of rooms to choose from depending upon the purpose of your stay - whether it be travel, leisure or recreational. Opened in 2018, Shinhwa Hotel & Resort is the newest member of the resort complex. From the standard Superior room to spacious Junior Suites, all 533 rooms in Shinhwa Hotel & Resort are designed with maximum relaxation and comfort in mind, offering, in addition, an infinity Sky Pool with panoramic views of Shinhwa Water Park and the magnificent scenery of the forest from the top floor. Located

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near Sinhwa Water Park and Shinhwa theme park - and delicious dining options in Shinhwa Dining - Shinhwa Hotel & Resort is the best choice for families.

而济州神话世界盛捷服务公寓则是一家公寓式高级度假酒店，非常适合家庭旅客入住。这里设有三房一厅的公寓，配置三间卧室、宽敞的客厅，更有高级厨房供客人享受下厨之乐。此外，公寓还为住客配备独立车位，让您尊享与别不同的奢华私人居停。

刺激娱乐，数之不尽

在这个韩国最大型的综合度假圣殿，蓝鼎娱乐场为宾客提供独特的豪华博彩体验，设有各式各样的电子桌上游戏、老虎机和丰富的博彩娱乐项目，以及各类推广活动。传奇扑克锦标赛 (Triton Poker Tournament) 已于 8 月 1 日圆满落幕，俄罗斯选手 Mikita Badziakouski 夺得 520 万美元的冠军奖金，这是世界扑克锦标赛以外的赛事中颁发的第四高奖金。百家乐玩家请留意，蓝鼎娱乐场每月均举办一场精彩的百家乐锦标赛。来自世界各地的选手在此争夺巨额总彩池巨奖。事实上，蓝鼎娱乐场的老虎机已经多次派彩，赔出 31 次破纪录的累积彩池巨奖；最近在 8 月 30 日，一位幸运玩家赢得了破纪录的 128,790,000 韩元彩金。这里有各种各样的老虎机游戏，如“5 宝贵宾”(5 Treasure VIP)、“88 财富贵宾”(88 Fortunes VIP)和“钻石永恒贵宾”(Diamond Eternity VIP)，共提供三项分别为 5 亿、2.5 亿和 1 亿韩元的最高基本奖金，至今还没有赢家获奖，如果您亲临蓝鼎娱乐场，将有机会夺取巨额彩金！ 쐽

FAMILY FUN OPTIONS Jeju Shinhwa World offers guests a remarkable and exciting range of family fun options including the amazing Shinwa Theme Park, a wonderful attraction for children as well as adults, featuring popular cartoon characters. Meanwhile, at exciting Transformers Autobots Alliance where guests can become a guardian of Planet Earth with Optimus Prime and the Autobots. For guests eager to experience all three breathtaking adventures, Jeju Shinhwa World issues a Multi Adventure pass for one day and two days for Korean won 49,000 and 59,000. Perfect for families, the Somerset Jeju Shinhwa World is a premium condominium resort featuring three-bedroom units with spacious living room and premium kitchen for cooking. A separate parking space for guests is available for that luxurious, private stay that makes all the difference. MORE EXCITEMENT South Korea’s largest integrated resort, Landing Casino provides a distinctly luxurious gaming experience with a diverse selection of electronic table games and slots as well as legions of entertainment events and promotions. The Triton Poker Tournament - successfully concluded on 1st August – saw Mikita Badziakouski walk away with the top prize, equal to US$5.2 million, making it the fourth biggest prize ever awarded in a tournament held outside of the World Series of Poker. For baccarat enthusiasts, Landing casino hosts an amazing Baccarat Tournament every month. Candidates from all over the world compete for a total prize pool with a hugh amount of Korean won. In fact, the slot machines have paid out record jackpots 31 times; on 30th August, a record-breaking Korean won 128,790,000 was scooped up by a lucky winner.

More slot games can be found here, like 5 Treasure VIP, 88 Fortunes VIP and Diamond Eternity VIP, collectively offering the three highest basic prizes of Korean won 500 million, 250 million and 100 million. No winner yet – but you gotta be in it to win it! 쐽

济州旅游资讯签证：免签航班： • 距离上海 1 小时飞行、北京和台湾 2 小时飞行、香港 3 小时飞行 • 蓝鼎娱乐场提供及台北包机 –逢周一及周五台北至济州 11:15-14:15 –逢周一及周五济州至台北 09:10-10:15 • 其他地区包机服务即将开通

JEJU TRAVEL TIPS Visa: Exempted Flight: 1-hour flight from Shanghai, 2-hour flight from Beijing and Taiwan, 3-hour flight from Hong Kong •

•

Landing Casino chartered flight from Taipei –

Taipei to Jeju 11:15-14:15, every Monday and Friday

–

Jeju to Taipei 09:10-10:15, every Monday and Friday

More chartered flight from other countries nearby will be launched soon

•

济州神话世界

Jeju Shinhwa World 网站 | Website: http://shinhwaworld.com 热线电话 | Hotline: 4006618866 蓝鼎娱乐场

Landing Casino 网站 | Website: http://www.landingkorea.com 热线电话 | Hotline: +82 64 908 8880

澳门精华 | 2018年 10月- 11月 | 105

Essential NEWS

美高梅员工积极进修完成文凭课程美高梅加大力度为所有本地员工提供各类训练课程，鼓励员工终身学习。上月，七名参与“美高梅中学回归教育课程”的本地团队成员成功修毕相关教育课程，获高美士中葡中学颁授毕业证书。学员的部门主管及家人也参与了毕业典礼，见证重要时刻。美高梅娱乐场赌枱副总裁高飞先生表示：“公司百分百支持同事！我们一直鼓励他们持续学习，但要兼顾工作、学习及家庭，一定要有决心，要坚持，这实在不容易。作为主管，我们要给他们最大的支持和一定的弹性，帮助他们达成学习目标。”

MGM Team Members Completed In-House High School Diploma Program MGM strengthens its effort in providing various training programs for local employees of all ages, promoting life-long learning in the workplace. Last month, a total of seven local team members who had enrolled in the MGM High School Diploma Program successfully completed the related courses and received their diplomas from Escola Secundária Luso-Chinesa de Luís Gonzaga Gomes (ESLC). Their family members and department heads also attended the graduation ceremony and witnessed their achievements. Mr. Graeme Croft, Vice President of Table Games of MGM, said, “Our Company supports our team members 100 percent! We always encourage them to further their education. Work-school-family balance isn’t easy as determination and persistence are essential. As supervisors, we need to provide them with our greatest support and flexibility so as to help them achieve their learning goals.”

新濠锋「澄」水疗荣获两项世界豪华水疗大奖自新濠锋开业以来，「澄」水疗已连续九年获得《福布斯》五星级殊荣，并于极富声望之 2018 世界豪华水疗大奖中，勇夺豪华健身水疗（Luxury Fitness Spa）及豪华健康水疗（Luxury Wellness Spa）大奖。澳门新濠锋及摩卡娱乐场（新濠博亚娱乐旗下）项目总裁蔡欣荣先生表示：“我们感到十分荣幸，「澄」水疗能够在享负盛名的 2018 世界豪华水疗大奖中获得双重认可。我们感谢主办方给予这个荣誉。「澄」水疗已连续九年荣获《福布斯》的五星评级，世界豪华水疗大奖的认可进一步证明了我们矢志提供世界级的奢华水疗服务。本人非常感谢同事对卓越的坚定追求，我们将继续为客人带来致臻完美、值得回味的水疗体验。”

Altira Spa wins two World Luxury Spa Awards Altira Spa, winner of the prestigious Forbes Five-Star rating for 9 consecutive years since the property opened, the spa has earned a double recognition of ‘Luxury Fitness Spa’ and ‘Luxury Wellness Spa’ at the renowned 2018 World Luxury Spa Awards. Mr. Andy Choy, Property President, Altira Macau and Mocha, Melco Resorts & Entertainment, said, “It is an honor for Altira Spa to receive double recognition at the prestigious 2018 World Luxury Spa Awards, and we are grateful to the organizers for this accolade. In addition to being awarded the Forbes 5-Star distinction for the ninth consecutive year, this recognition from World Luxury Spa Awards further validates our dedication to world-class, distinguished luxury spa services. With thanks to our colleagues for their commitment to excellence, we will strive to continue offering impeccable and memorable experiences to all our guests at Altira Spa.”

106 | OCTOBER- NOVEMBER 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Essential NEWS

银娱集团举办“环保、健康及安全意识培养周” 为加深员工在职安健及环保方面的知识和意识，并提升他们对有关方面的学习乐趣，银河娱乐集团于日前（下称银娱）举办首届“环保、健康及安全意识培养周”（下称培养周）。澳门银河设备管理高级副总裁陈志邦先生表示：“银娱深知培养团队成员的环保、健康和安全意识，对保障他们、社区和环境的健康与安全至关重要。因此，我们举办及参与各类型活动，确保团队成员透过不同渠道接触环保、健康和安全的知识。”在培养周期间，银娱也举行了年度活动 “环保、健康及安全问答比赛”，共有 12 组来自不同部门的队伍参加了初赛，当中四组晋身总决赛。

Galaxy Entertainment Group Hosts Environmental, Health & Safety Education & Awareness Week Galaxy Entertainment Group (“GEG”) recently hosted the first Environmental, Health &Safety Education & Awareness Week (“the EHS Week”) to enhance team members ‘knowledge and awareness of occupational safety and environmental conservation while increasing their interest in related areas. Mr. Chan Chee Pong, Senior Vice President of Facilities Management of Galaxy Macau, said, “GEG recognizes that nurturing team members’ environmental, health and safety awareness is distinctly important for protecting the health and safety of our team members, the community and the environment. Therefore, we organize and participate in a variety of programs to ensure team members’ exposure to environmental, health and safety dynamics.” The annual EHS Quiz Competition was also held during the EHS Week. A total of 12 teams from various departments participated in the preliminary round, and four teams reached the final stage of the competition.

新濠博亚娱乐获颁杰出企业社会责任奖

新濠博亚娱乐荣获香港镜报第七届两岸四地杰出企业社会责任奖。奬项由十一名不同领域专家组成的评判团，按照企业对股东及宾客的承诺、社区关系、员工关怀、领导管理及环境可持续性评出。新濠执行副总裁兼人力资源暨企业社会责任总监高桥明子女士表示：作为负责任的企业公民，新濠一直致力回馈社会。我们十分高兴能够取得镜报的‘杰出企业社会责任奖’，衷心感谢主办机构的嘉许。”

Melco achieves Outstanding Corporate Social Responsibility Award Melco Resorts & Entertainment Limited has won an Outstanding Corporate Social Responsibility award at the 7th Cross-Strait-Four-Region Outstanding Corporate Social Responsibility Award organized by the Mirror Post of Hong Kong. Melco garnered the accolade among regional organizational entries from China, Hong Kong, Macau and Taiwan based on its commitment to shareholders and clients, community relations, employee care, leadership and environmental sustainability by a panel of judges consisting of eleven expert professionals from various fields. Ms. Akiko Takahashi, Executive Vice President, Chief Officer of Human Resources and Corporate Social Responsibility of Melco Resorts & Entertainment, said, “As a responsible corporate citizen devoted to giving back to the community, Melco is extremely pleased to achieve this Outstanding Corporate Social Responsibility Award from the Mirror Post, and would like to thank the organizers for the recognition..”

澳门精华 | 2018年 10月- 11月 | 107

Essential JEWELLERY

奢华精髓 Essential luxuries “精华”指南，澳门顶级购物商场奢靡品牌一网打尽 The Essential guide to luxury brands at Macau’s leading shopping malls

威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian Estrada da Baía de N. Senhora da Esperanca, S/N, Taipa, Macau

永利澳门名店街 Wynn Esplanade Rua Cidade de Sintra, NAPE, Macau

四季‧名店 Shoppes at Four Seasons The Cotai Strip, Estrada da Baía de N. Senhora da Esperanca, S/N, Taipa, Macau

Abiste Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Alfred Dunhill 艾尔弗雷德·登喜路 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 Agnes b. 阿尼亚斯贝 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Aquascutum 雅格狮丹 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Armani Collezioni 阿玛尼黑标 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Audemars Piguet 爱彼表 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

108 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

永利澳门万利酒店 Esplanade at Encore Rua Cidade de Sintra, NAPE, Macau

四季酒店DFS环球免税店 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons

新濠天地 The City of Dreams

The Cotai Strip, Estrada da Baia de N. Senhora da Esperanca, S/N, Taipa, Macau

Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau

金丽华酒店 Grand Lapa Hotel

澳门银河 Galaxy Macau Cotai, Macau

金沙城中心 Sands Cotai Central Estrada da Baia de N. Senhora da Esperanca, S/N, Taipa, Macau

Bally 巴利 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 Bang & Olufsen 奢华视听品牌 B&O One Central 一号广场 Bottega Veneta 宝缇嘉 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心

956-1110 Avenida da Amizade, Macau

一号广场 One Central Avenida de Sagres and Avenida do Dr. Sun Yat Sen, Lot B of Block B of Zone B Nape, Macau

Breguet 宝玑 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Brooks Brothers 布克兄弟 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Burberry 巴宝莉 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地

Brioni 布莱奥尼 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Bulgari 宝格丽 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Boucheron 宝诗龙 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

Canali 康纳利 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Essential RETAIL

Carl F. Bucherer 宝齐莱 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Cartier 卡地亚 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Esplanade at Encore 永利澳门万利酒店

Damiani 达米阿尼 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 Davidoﬀ 大卫杜夫 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 David Yurman 大卫 ·雅曼 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Céline 赛琳 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场

De Beers 戴比尔斯 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店

Cerruti 1881 切瑞蒂 1881 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Diamond SA 南非钻石 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Chanel 香奈儿 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Diane Von Furstenberg 黛安·冯芙丝汀宝 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Chaumet 尚美 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Chloe 蔻依 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Christian Dior 克里斯汀·迪奥 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Chopard 萧邦 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地 Cigar Emporium 雪茄专门店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心 CK Calvin Klein 卡尔文·克莱恩 One Central 一号广场 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Coach 蔻驰 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地 Cole Haan 歌涵 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

DKNY 唐娜·凯伦纽约 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心 Dolce&Gabbana 杜嘉班纳 One Central 一号广场 Emporio Armani 安普里奥 ·阿玛尼 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地 Ermenegildo Zegna 杰尼亚 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Europe Watch Company 欧洲坊 One Central 一号广场

Franck Muller 法蘭穆勒 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Gieves & Hawkes 君皇仕 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Giorgio Armani 乔治·阿玛尼 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Giuseppe Zanotti 朱塞佩· 萨诺第 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Givenchy 纪梵希 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Glashütte Original 格拉苏蒂 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 GoldVish S.A. Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Gucci 古琦 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心 Hermès 爱马仕 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Hublot 宇舶表 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地

Fabio Caviglia 法比奥 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场

Hugo Boss 胡戈· 波士 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 One Central 一号广场 The City Of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Fendi 芬迪 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场

IWC 万国表 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河

Ferrari 法拉利 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Jaeger-LeCoultre 积家 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Francesco Biasia Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

澳门精华 | 2018年 8月- 9月 | 109

Essential JEWELLERY Shanghai Tang 上海滩 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Samsonite Black Label 新秀丽黑标 One Central 一号广场 Shiatzy Chen 夏姿·陈 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 S.T. Dupont 法国都彭 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 St. John 圣约翰 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Smalto by Paris Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Jaquet Droz 雅克 ·德罗 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

Miu Miu 缪缪 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Juicy Couture 橘滋 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

Montblanc 万宝龙 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场

Kate Spade 凯特· 丝蓓 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Kenzo 高田贤三 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Lancel 兰姿 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 La Perla Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Leonard 李奥纳德 One Central 一号广场 Links of London Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Loro Piana 罗洛·皮雅纳 One Central 一号广场 Louis Vuitton 路易·威登 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 One Central 一号广场 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Loewe 罗威 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 Luk Fook 六福珠宝 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心 Marc by Marc Jacobs 马克·雅可布之马克 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Marni 玛尼 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Max Mara 麦丝玛拉 One Central 一号广场 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Maubossin 梦宝星 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Mikimoto 御木本珠宝 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Missoni 米索尼 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

110 | AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2018 | ESSENTIAL MACAU

Oﬃcine Panerai 沛纳海 One Central 一号广场 Omega 欧米茄 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Sands Cotai Central 金沙城中心 Macau Landmark 澳门置地广场酒店 Macau Square 澳门广场 Pal Zileri 伯爵莱利 One Central 一号广场 Piaget 伯爵 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Esplanade at Encore 永利澳门万利酒店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河

Stefano Ricci 史蒂芬劳·尼治 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Swarovski 施华洛世奇水晶 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Tag Heuer 豪雅 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Thomas Sabo 汤武士世宝 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Tiﬀany & Co. 蒂芙尼 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Tod’s 托德斯 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 Tonino Lamborghini 兰博基尼 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

Prada 普拉达 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Tourneau 唐龙 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心

Rado 雷达 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 The City of Dreams 新濠天地

Tudor 帝舵表 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街

Ralph Lauren 拉夫·劳伦 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地

Vacheron Constatin 江诗丹顿 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店

Rich Jade 富御珠宝 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Richard Mille 瑞驰·迈迪 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 Rimowa 日墨瓦 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Roberto Cavalli Class and Cesare Paciotti Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Roger Dubuis 罗杰杜彼 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Rolex 劳力士 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Salvatore Ferragamo 萨尔瓦托勒·菲拉格慕 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地

Van Cleef & Arpels 梵克雅宝 DFS Galleria, The Four Seasons 四季酒店DFS环球免税店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Galaxy Macau 澳门银河 Versace 范思哲 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Versace Collection 范思哲高级成衣 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 Vertu 沃尔图 Grand Canal Shoppes, The Venetian 威尼斯人大运河购物中心 One Central 一号广场 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Wynn Esplanade 永利澳门名店街 Vivienne Westwood 薇薇恩·韦斯特伍德 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Yves Saint Laurent 伊夫圣罗兰 The City of Dreams 新濠天地 Valentino 华伦天奴 Grand Lapa Hotel 金丽华酒店 Shoppes at Four Seasons 四季‧名店

HONOUR COMMISSION MEMBERS HONOUR COMMISSION MEMBERS

Kevin Ho

Paula Ling

Terry Sio

Paul Tse

Rutger Verschuren Vong Kok Seng

Kevin Ho

Paula Ling

Terry Sio

Paul Tse

Rutger Verschuren Vong Kok Seng

ADVISORY BOARD ADVISORY BOARD

Meet Meet the Honour Commission, the Honour Commission, Advisory Board Members and the Judges! Advisory Board Members and the Judges!

Paulo A. Azevedo Lau Pak Hung

Albano Martins

Frederico Rato

Filipe Cunha Santos Paul Tse

Vong Kok Seng

Paulo A. Azevedo Lau Pak Hung

Albano Martins

Frederico Rato

Filipe Cunha Santos Paul Tse

Vong Kok Seng

The 2018 Business Awards of Macau is supported by well-known, highly accomplished indiThe 2018 Business Awards of Macau is supportviduals related to various economic sectors ed by well-known, highly accomplished indiwith significant knowledge of the business viduals related to various economic sectors environment of knowledge Macau. with significant of the business environment of Macau.

JUDGING PANEL MEMBERS JUDGING PANEL MEMBERS

Manuela António Bruno Ascenção

Paulo A. Azevedo Melina Leong

James Chu

Antº Conceição Júnior Rui Cunha

José I. Duarte

António Felix Pontes Kevin Ho

Manuela António Bruno Ascenção

Paulo A. Azevedo Melina Leong

James Chu

Antº Conceição Júnior Rui Cunha

José I. Duarte

António Felix Pontes Kevin Ho

Mary Ho

Agnes Lam

Lau Pak Hung

Tommy Lau

Paula Ling

Albano Martins

Carlos Marreiros

J. Rodrigues Moreno João Francisco Pinto Pedro Cortés

Mary Ho

Agnes Lam

Lau Pak Hung

Tommy Lau

Paula Ling

Albano Martins

Carlos Marreiros

J. Rodrigues Moreno João Francisco Pinto Pedro Cortés

Filipe Cunha Santos Terry Sio

Jacky So Yuk-Chow Larry So

Paul Tse Tse

Rutger Verschuren Vong Kok Seng

Note : The list Frederico is sorted by alphabetic order, using last names Alice Costa Rato Anabela Ritchie Filipe Cunha Santos Terry Sio

Alice Costa

Jacky So Yuk-Chow Larry So

Paul Tse Tse

Rutger Verschuren Vong Kok Seng

Frederico Rato

Anabela Ritchie

Note : The list is sorted by alphabetic order, using last names

Now in its 6th big year, theitsdiverse Now in 6th bigand prestigious paneland year, the diverse continues topanel recogprestigious nise the true continues to elites recog-of Macau. nise the true elites of Macau. For more information, please contact For more information, info@awardsmacau.com please contact + 853 2833 1258 info@awardsmacau.com www.awardsmacau.com + 853 2833 1258 www.awardsmacau.com

Awards Gala Ceremony Awards Ceremony NovemberGala 15, 2018 at Grand Lisboa Hotel, Grand Ballroom November 15, 2018 at Grand Lisboa Hotel, Grand Ballroom

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