THE SOCIAL CLUB SQUEAK PRO BARBER JAMIE DIGRAZIA CAMERA READY KUTZ TAYLORCUTZ HASSAN WHITAKER
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| A U G U S T / S E P T E M B E R 2 0 2 0 // I S S U E F O U R T E E N
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introducing
titan plan Custom Branded App Shop Management System Smart Waitlist One Touch Payroll ™
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1919 by WAHL Professional supports hair health and delivers versatile applications for a finishing look. Today’s styles are ever-changing and 1919 by WAHL Professional offers flexibility of use that today’s professionals are looking for. All 1919 by WAHL Professional products are paraben and sulfate free. Become a 1919 by WAHL Professional reseller at www.wahlpro.com
Hair/Photography// Robert Braid. Models// Eli & Sam Braid.
THE FINAL CUT.
ROBERT BRAID. LOCKDOWN COLLECTION
THE FINAL CUT.
ROBERT BRAID. PROJECT X COLLECTION
THE FINAL CUT.
Hair// Robert Braid. Make-up Artist// Danielle Saysell. Models// Jan Cacko, Dennis French, Henry Leszcynski, Joe Venant. Photography// Liam Oakes.
Hair/Photography// John Carmona. Styling// Parker Owens. Models// Derek Zook.
THE FINAL CUT.
JOHN CARMONA. LOCKED DOWN COLLECTION
THE FINAL CUT.
HAUS OF FLINT. 1922 COLLECTION
Hair// Devin Johnson, Samantha Lemon, Ryan Valdez. Creative Director// Dallan Flint. Products// 1922 by J.M. Keune. Photography// Kristen Correa-Flint.
THE FINAL CUT.
Hair// Dana Hodges Caschetta. Hair Team// Omar Ahmed, Chris Crocilla, Victoria Crocilla, Morgan Howell. Models// Q Model Management. Products// Eufora Hero for Men. Wardrobe// Rose Vanderhoof. Photography// Ron Ulip, Freshly Cut Film.
THE FINAL CUT.
DANA HODGES CASCHETTA. STREETWISE COLLECTION
Hair/ Photography// Whitney VerMeer.
THE FINAL CUT.
WHITNEY VERMEER. UNEXPOSED COLLECTION
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COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR David Foster// david@barberevo.com
TRADE. CULTURE. EDUCATION.
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF ART DIRECTOR
JOHNNy BABA KEITH CONNIFORD
Andrew Brewster//
NATALIE CRESSWELL THE BUZZ NETWORK
andrew@barberevo.com ****
EDITOR Amy Glasgow// amy@barberevo.com ****
SALES EXECUTIVE Mairi Cotter// mairi@barberevo.com ****
ACCOUNTS MANAGER Elspeth Foster// elspeth@barberevo.com ****
COVER IMAGE Donnie Hawley// Layrite.
CUTTERS YARD
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A N D R E W B R E W S T E R & D A V I D F O S T E R // C O - F O U N D E R S IT HAS BEEN A DIFFICULT FEW MONTHS FOR OUR BELOVED INDUSTRY, THE PANDEMIC HAS AFFECTED US ALL IN DIFFERENT WAYS, BUT BARBERS ARE RESILIENT AND WE KNOW THAT THEY WILL COME BACK FROM THIS STRONGER AND BETTER THAN EVER. We both can’t wait to see what the latter half of this year brings and have been so inspired watching so many of you rise to this challenge. Seeing barbershops across North America reopen their doors over the past few weeks and months has been fantastic. It made it all the more difficult though when it was announced that 30 counties in California were closing their barbershops once again in July, but we know there is light at the end of the tunnel. Here at BarberEVO, we made the decision early on, as difficult as it was, to postpone the June edition, and hold out until barbers were back doing what they love. Therefore, the August ‘comeback’ edition is here! Between our April edition and now, we decided to focus our efforts on keeping this industry updated and making sure that we continued to support you in the right way, so EVOLive was born, and you can read all about it in this edition.
We have loved creating the EVOLive series of interviews and panel discussions for you during the quarantine, and we’ve been lucky to have so many fantastic individuals grace our Instagram and Facebook video streams to provide you with advice, insights and inspiration. It has been really heartwarming to see you all interacting with us and getting involved in these conversations, because at the end of the day, BarberEVO is all about YOU. The support and camaraderie we have seen among barbers during this experience has been second to none. We’ve loved the education, the conversations, the insight and the mutual appreciation that has been ever-present throughout this experience. As we navigate through this new normal, we will continue to do all we can to support the barbering industry, and we hope that you all continue to be safe, and doing what you do best.
B E S H A R P. B E C O N N E C T E D . BarberEVO
WWW.BARBEREVO.COM
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COPYRIGHT All work in this publication is copyright BarberEVO Magazine and Evo Enterprises Ltd. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the permission of the publisher. © Information and product prices are correct at time of printing. Some products may not be available in all stores.
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Evo Enterprises Ltd, Suite 1.7, 1 Redwood Crescent, East Kilbride, G74 5PA, United Kingdom
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JOHN CARMONA
KENNY DUNCAN
Owner, Barber Theory
Lead Andis Educator, SCurl Brand Ambassador
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TYRIK JACKSON
AILEEN NUNEZ
Founder, Premier Barber Institute
International Education Management Consultant
IT FEELS LIKE A LIFETIME AGO I SAT DOWN TO WRITE MY LAST WELCOME. SO MUCH HAS CHANGED IN THE PAST FEW MONTHS, AND WHILE THERE IS STILL UNCERTAINTY AHEAD, I BELIEVE THE BEST IS YET TO COME FOR THIS INDUSTRY. In order to provide you with the most up to date information and the most relevant stories and features, our comeback issue is all about hitting the ground running and making up for lost time. We take a look back at our incredible EVOLive series, sharing some of our favorite quotes and insights from barbers, brands and industry leaders, and we find out how other countries are coping postlockdown, from the UK to the UAE. Closer to home, we bring you an exclusive interview with our cover star and Layrite Deluxe founder, the one and only Donnie Hawley, who shares some of his career highlights and why he believes his pomades smash the competition. We talk to Director of Education at Barbicide, Leslie Roste, on what the team have been doing during quarantine to support the industry, our columnist and SCurl Ambassador Kenny Duncan brings us a thought-provoking piece on the
Black Lives Matter movement, and a host of leading barbers share their thoughts and advice on how to fix those pesky DIY home haircuts. While protecting ourselves and our clients is of the utmost importance, it is just as important to look after our wellbeing, in both body and mind, so we have put together advice on how to take care of both you and your clients’ mental and physical wellbeing too. We’re also delving into retail – an important resource for barbershops keen to claw back some of that lost revenue, with advice from Elliott Chester, Sosa and Bona Fide Pomade, who have already and will continue to use retail to their advantage. It feels great to be back, bringing you this exciting and thought-provoking new edition of BarberEVO. We hope you enjoy this issue, but most importantly, continue to stay safe and know that brighter days are coming.
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Barber & LXVE Creator
Barber & Author
EXCLUSIVE MEDIA PARTNERS www.barbercon.com www.ctbarberexpo.com
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SHORT CUTS.
PATTY CUTS SURPRISES NFL WIDE RECEIVER WITH MADDEN #99 CLUB NEWS
WAHL WELCOMES A ROD TO THE TEAM
JAKE SHIPWRECK KENNY DUNCAN
BRANDI LASHAY
BENNY MACHADO
“Wahl has always been a part of what barbering means to me. My first clipper was a Wahl and one of my favorite tools is the corded Magic Clip because I love the power behind it. I can see that Wahl and I are on the same path moving forward into the future.” With his ability to speak both English and Spanish, A Rod will be able to reach more of Wahl Professional’s target audience and share his knowledge with them. t NORTH AMERICA
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Social media sensation and barber, A Rod, is the latest to join the renowned Wahl Professional team. Together, Wahl and A Rod will bring high-quality education to barbers and stylists everywhere. A Rod will develop educational videos that showcase how to create cuts using Wahl tools. Wahl’s Education and Artistic Team (WEAT) members will also make regular appearances in his posts to share their expertise in creating various cuts and looks. In addition, A Rod will also be joining the Wahl’s traveling, barbering and business educational tour, Disruptour in 2021. “I’ve been dreaming of this partnership for years,” says A Rod.
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To keep up to date with A Rod’s latest collaborations and education, follow @arod23pr and @wahlpro on Instagram.
GAMMA+ LEADING IN INNOVATION WITH THE ERGO CLIPPER The new clipper from Gamma+ is in high demand – so much so that the ERGO Gamma+ sold out before it even landed with barbers. The ERGO trimmer and clipper is truly leading the industry in innovation; cordless with wireless charging built-in, a miniature USB port and a design that perfectly balances sleek aesthetics with an ergonomic feel. The motor runs at 10,000 strokes per minute, offering speed, longevity and the quietest professional clipper on the market. Co-founder of Gamma+ NA, Austin Russo has brought his years of experience in designing and engineering some of the best tools in the industry to Gamma, a small brand that has re-invented itself
over the past few years. Russo’s knowledge and extensive network has helped the Italian brand find its footing in North America, but the brand’s design and performance are still very much rooted in its Italian heritage. Three interchangeable custom body kits in Gold, Rose Gold and Chrome combine with features like the Black Diamond Carbon DLC blade for a sleek and stylish performance with every use. Supporting barbers and their clients across the globe is paramount to Gamma+ as they provide innovative and stylish products for everyday use – as Russo says, ‘Welcome to the future of barbering!’ Visit gammaplusna.com to order the ERGO Gamma+.
Legendary Florida based barber Patty Cuts, a.k.a Pat Regan, delivered more than just a great haircut to one of his VIP clients recently. Michael Thomas, the incredible New Orleans Saints wide receiver, was announced as the 5th and final player to be inducted into the EA Sports Madden NFL 21 exclusive #99 club… the club for the players with the highest combined ratings in the annual NFL video game. Who better to make the announcement, than Patty, Michael’s barber and close friend! Captured live and posted on the EA Sports Madden 21 Twitter account, the excitement and hype of the moment was not lost on either of the guys! “Being asked to give the Best Wide Receiver in the NFL, Michael Thomas, his Madden 99 Rating award is one of the coolest things I have ever been asked to do. And not just because of the exposure, of being on ESPN, NFL and EA Sports; for me it’s more meaningful because it shows the great relationship I have built with Mike through being his barber and that he values and respects me in more ways than just as his barber,” says Pat. “That is what is valuable to me. It feels good for me to know all of the hard work, traveling, professionalism, and respecting his privacy has paid off and is leading me to bigger opportunities. Trusting the process and staying consistent will always lead to big things. I just feel grateful right now.”
BOOKSY LAUNCHES MOBILE SERVICES FEATURE To support new and existing customers and allow them to expand their business, Booksy has created a new Mobile Services feature, allowing barbers, stylists and other beauty professionals to bring their services to their clients’ home. Businesses can set their own fully customizable travel area, giving you the power to set up fees, pricing, and location-
related accommodations for travel requests. Through Mobile Services, you will have the power to confirm every appointment to make sure it is within your reach. The new feature comes as, although barbers and salons have been open for weeks and months in some areas, many clients may still be reluctant to step out for a haircut or trim in a bid to avoid crowded spaces.
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Mobile Services allows you to provide your clients with the same high-quality service from the comfort of their own home, allowing them to feel safe and secure while providing you with an additional income stream. To find out more about Mobile Services, visit www.booksy.com
JOHN MOSLEY LAUNCHES THE NOBODY WAY FOUNDATION
BARBERCON SHOWS CANCELED With the ongoing uncertainty surrounding public gatherings and the concern for the health and safety of the barbering and cosmetology community, creator Lee Resnick has made the difficult decision to cancel Barbercon Austin, LA and New York City 2020. In a statement posted on Instagram, event organizers said: “We want the best possible educational and networking experience for our
attendees and our brands. Due to these health circumstances that are out of our control, we must do what’s best for your safety and the hair community.” Tickets purchased online for any of the events will be fully refunded, and paper ticket holders will be refunded by the original point of purchase. For further updates regarding Barbercon 2021 dates, visit barbercon.com
CONNECTICUT BARBER EXPO CANCELED CT Barber Expo founder and host Jay Majors has announced that this year’s show has been canceled due to ongoing concerns regarding the health and safety of exhibitors and attendees as COVID-19 cases continue to spike across the United States. The news comes after a decision was made earlier this year to postpone the show to October. This year’s show was set to mark the 10th
anniversary of the CT Barber Expo, and while this will be a great loss to the 2020 barbering calendar, we at BarberEVO fully support Jay Majors and his partners in what is a very difficult decision. We look forward to seeing you all again at CT Barber Expo 2021, which we are certain will be bigger and better than ever. For further updates regarding CT Barber Expo 2021 dates, visit ctbarberexpo.com
SCHEDULICITY OFFERS GRANTS TO CALIFORNIA BUSINESSES Schedulicity’s small business grant program, #SchedulicityCares, has turned its focus towards the state of California, offering ten $1,000 grants to help businesses hit hardest by the COVID-19 pandemic. Effective immediately, preferences will be given to businesses in California, which were forced to endure a second round of closures, with the mandatory re-closure of barbershops, hair salons, nail salons and personal care businesses ordered by Governor Gavin Newsom on 13th July. Barbershops and hair salons have since been allowed to open outdoors with new guidance. Schedulicity CEO and founder Jerry Nuttuno announced the update on the company’s social media pages and spoke about the first
grant which was awarded to Los Angeles salon HairBeat. Owned by Melanie Charlton, the salon offers braids and weaves for all textures of hair. Businesses can apply for one of the $1,000 grants online by nominating themselves or a fellow business in California that they know is struggling. Schedulicity will also consider applications from outside of California if the business has a clear and immediate need for support. Find out more about #SchedulicityCares and keep up to date with their latest news by following them on Instagram, @schedulicity.
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John Mosley, also known as Popular Nobody, has built an incredible career for himself as a barber and international educator. Now, he is using his influence to give back to the community by launching his own foundation, which will help support aspiring beauty professionals as they set off on their new career journey. “It is our mission to ignite the power of tenacity and humility by creating opportunities for successful careers in the beauty industry and beyond,” says John. The Nobody Way Foundation believes in a future where your place in the fashion and beauty industry is determined by your talent and not your zip code. Where access to top-tier education and industry-leading mentors is limited only by your own work ethic. Where communities prosper because dreamers and do-ers discover a career path that matches their passions, and where the humble and tenacious are the innovators of our future and the champions of our communities. So, how is the foundation helping to create this future? By partnering with top-tier educational institutions to offer scholarships and structured opportunities for aspiring barbers and cosmetologists and by building strong support and mentorship opportunities for aspiring barbers, cosmetologists, and the broader community members it serves. The unifying focus of the Foundation is community. It exists to build a community that celebrates the hard-working and humble who are dedicated to moving their communities forward – together. To find out how you can support the foundation, visit nobodyway.com
A CUT ABOVE ANDREW JAMES BE EASY MATTE POMADE This matte pomade is perfect for providing an effortless look while giving hair a thicker, fuller appearance and a touchable matte finish. The non-sticky formula means no comb is needed, just style and re-touch with your fingers.
JRL FRESHFADE 2020C CLIPPER JRL’s newest and most exciting model yet, the 2020C Clipper features advanced lever-locking, keeping the lever secure for extended use, with a quiet motor, adjustable speeds and a revolutionary cool blade.
$160.00 // jrlusa.com
$19.99 // andrewjameshair.com
CLUBMAN 2-IN-1 BEARD CONDITIONER
ANDIS BLADE CARE PLUS Formulated to do seven jobs in one, this cleaning fluid cools, cleans, disinfects, lubricates, prevents rust and deodorises clipper blades, and is formulated with vitamin E to help your blade glide over your clients’ skin, conditioning it as you clip.
Blended for maximum moisturization for both the beard and face, this conditioner helps to control and moisturize facial hair while soothing irritated skin, preventing flaking and controlling frizz.
AMERICAN CREW LATHER SHAVE CREAM
The cream formula is easy to distribute, and light in texture for quick absorption.
This silky lather shaving cream creates a rich, foamy lather that softens the beard hair for an easy shave. The lather helps keep the beard hair lifted for a close shave, while protecting the skin from irritation and razor burn, leaving skin feeling smooth and hydrated.
$8.50 // clubman.com
$19.95 // americancrew.com
$120.24 // andis.com
WAHL PROFESSIONAL 1919 POMADE
EZ-BLADE DOUBLE EDGE RAZOR BLADES These premium blades are built to last for a whole shave – no stopping halfway, these stay sharp the entire time. Made from strong, Swedish steel, they were designed by barbers, for barbers, and can be bought in packs of 100 to 400 pieces.
From $11.99 // ezbladeshavingproducts.com
KEUNE 1922 TOUGH TEXTURE Create a textured look without weighing down your client’s hair with this thickening spray from Keune’s 1992 range. Providing medium hold and a matte finish, it is suitable for any hair length and ideal for normal to fine hair.
keune.com
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The perfect blend of shape, hold and fragrance. Add a small amount to damp or dry hair for silky-smooth styles that lasts for hours and hours. The water-based formula rinses out the first time, without a trace of residue.
$19.00 // wahlpro.com
BARBER CRAFTED. AMERICAN MADE. No Fuss. No Frills. Just Effortless Style.
andrewjameshair.com
UPPERCUT SALT SPRAY
SCURL SMOOTH GLIDE SHAVE GEL
LAYRITE ORIGINAL DELUXE POMADE
GAMMA+ ERGO LINEAR CLIPPER
Designed to create a loose, lived-in look with ease or to be used as a pre-styling product when blow drying, this Salt Spray is a weightless product giving light control for a relaxed, textured hold while maintaining a natural finish.
Ideal for beard to bald, this shave gel is designed to soften the skin for a close and comfortable shave.
This water-based pomade with a cream soda scent is the one that started it all! Designed to provide hold and smell fresh all day, it can be easily rinsed out with water.
Now available as a cordless clipper, the Ergo features the latest in magnetic motor technology with an improved and revolutionary linear magnetic motor.
Perfect for classic put-together styles and messy wet looks, it is suitable for fine to medium thick hair.
This long-life motor runs at 10,000 strokes per minute, offering speed and power, with three interchangeable custom body kits.
From $8.50 // layrite.com
$199.95 // gammaplusna.com
$17.00 // uppercutdeluxe.com
The clear gel allows for easy, mistakefree lining and protects against razor bumps, burns and ingrown hairs.
$7.99 // scurl.com
BARBER STRONG BARBER MAT The Barber Mat keeps barbering tools organized and secure while protecting both countertops and workstations. The mat can be easily wiped down with a wet cloth or disinfectant wipe to keep it clean.
STRAND BUILDER HAIR BUILDING FIBERS Rebuild hair with 100% Organic Keratin Fibers that are designed to statically cling to existing hair, building each strand for thicker-looking hair.
$39.95 // strandbuilder.com
$30.00 // barber-strong.com
BARBICIDE DISINFECTING JAR Make sure your tools are fully disinfected and ready to meet your next client with Barbicide.
WAHL PROFESSIONAL CORDLESS DETAILER LI Equipped with a lightning-fast T-Wide blade, the Cordless Detailer LI can provide more power behind each cut. The trimmer features a lithium-ion battery that runs up to 100 minutes, allowing time for detailing and fine-line trimming.
$139.00 // wahlpro.com
Place handheld tools inside the disinfecting jar with diluted Barbicide for at least 10 minutes to fully sanitize.
$26.99 // sallybeauty.com
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Professional Modular Clipper with Turbocharged Magnetic Motor
The Lowered of
DONNIE HAWLEY THE CREATOR OF LAYRITE DELUXE, FINE MEN’S GROOMING PRODUCTS AND FOUNDER OF HAWLEYWOOD’S BARBERSHOP & SHAVING PARLOR, DONNIE HAWLEY IS AN INNOVATOR AND RENOWNED LEGEND IN HIS OWN RIGHT. came his way and barbers he trained and influenced soon attempted to become competitors. Donnie started mixing his own ingredients at an early age because of his own curly hair. He was trying to be a rockabilly, achieving that perfect pompadour. This sparked a curiosity and after trials and tribulations with countless haircuts, Donnie soon launched his own pomade. “I think the most rewarding thing to come out of creating the Layrite Deluxe Brand is it feels like we’ve played a role in saving the vanishing trade of barbering. I’m proud to be one of the first barbers to take my show on the road and tour the world, influencing people along the way. I’ve been able to create relationships in one handshake at a time before social media existed. I’m honored to lead the Layrite Deluxe Band of Barbers too; we have some great people and barbers on that team.” “Layrite Deluxe, an American original Pomade, was born out of necessity. It was unique and way ahead of its time and sparked a worldwide movement before it was jocked by blatant ripoffs. It was amazing for me to see my creation, from my passion of being a barber and being able to put it in my patron’s hair, that it would hold like wax and wash out easily with water. This was perfect for all the greasers that would sit in my chair using Layrite Deluxe, I could rinse it out, get my clippers through their hair and re-apply Layrite Deluxe with ease.” u
Donnie has built, with his own two hands, three barbershops in California, - Costa Mesa, Huntington Beach, Long Beach - and one in Australia. He fought against all odds and the naysayers to stake the claim he currently boasts with pride. When he opened up Hawleywood’s back in 1999, there were no barbers to hire. There were a handful of books and magazines published around that time, which stated that the traditional trade of barbering would soon go extinct. 21 years later, he has not only pioneered the vanishing trade of barbering in the US, but around the world as well. Donnie’s unique style and signature haircuts and shop itself have, become a template for today’s modern barbershop. Everywhere you look, you can see Donnie Hawley’s influence. A barber pole will soon be an icon to yesteryears, only to be seen through collectors and viewed as an antique. But that didn’t stop Donnie Hawley. In fact, Donnie was encouraged to consider cosmetology, being told that there would be more money in it. Nothing could discourage his determination. He started cutting hair, doing Mohawks for the high school football team in his backyard. Word spread quickly; soon he was invited to the back of tattoo shops and VIP rooms, cutting hair exclusively. Donnie paid his dues and his way through Barber College. During a time when there was no social media, and word of mouth was the best Yelp in town, Donnie’s fortitude paid off as he built one shop after another. Donnie bulldozed through any roadblock that
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I THINK THE MOST REWARDING THING TO COME OUT OF CREATING THE LAYRITE DELUXE BRAND IS IT FEELS LIKE WE’VE PLAYED A ROLE IN SAVING THE VANISHING TRADE OF BARBERING.” 31
“ONE OF THE GREATEST HIGHLIGHTS OF MY CAREER IS HAVING THE HONOR OF BEING THE ONLY BARBER IN AMERICAN HISTORY TO HAVE A PAINTED DEPICTION OF MYSELF IN THE AMERICAN HALLS OF HISTORY AT THE SMITHSONIAN.”
“One of the greatest highlights of my career is having the honor of being the only barber in American history to have a painted depiction of myself in the American Halls of History at the Smithsonian,” says Donnie. “I never could have dreamed when I started my career that a painting of me would be hanging on the wall next to the Hall of Presidents!” “I also have to mention that to this day, I still can’t believe that because of my barbering skills and my strong hustle, I was invited not once, but twice, to the Playboy mansion where I met my hero Hugh Hefner and had the honor of cleaning him up in the scratcher – the most VIP cut in my entire life. After these ultimate experiences at the Playboy Mansion, I left there knowing that in that moment, I could go ahead and die now.” Always passionate about music, one of Donnie’s all-time goals was to create his own music venue in the back of his barbershop, something he was able to finally do in 2009. Since then, Donnie has thrown many live shows and names like James Intveld, the Blasters, Red Devil Squadron, Miguel Garcia and The Vaquetones, Duane Peters, Sean and Zander from Throw Rag the Circle Jerks, Eddie Nichols of Royal Crown Revue, Billy Joe Shaver, Vicky Tafoya and the Big Beat, Nick Curran and the Lowlifes, Russell Scott and his Red Hots, and many more have graced the stage. In fact, music plays such a huge role at the barbershop, Donnie released a Hawleywood’s Hits CD; a collaboration of music that can only be heard at Hawleywood’s. Donnie’s barbering skills have made him a force to be reckoned with, traveling around the globe to give master classes and speak for his trade. Those books that once said there would no longer be barbershops, didn’t know Donnie Hawley was coming full force. “It’s been an amazing journey, and these events and experiences have taken my career beyond my wildest dreams! I am looking forward to seeing everyone at all the upcoming cool festivals and shows – riding in style like always in our Lady Layrite Band of Barbers Tour Bus!” •
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THE SOCIAL CLUB SQUEAK PRO BARBER JAMIE DIGRAZIA CAMERA READY KUTZ TAYLORCUTZ HASSAN WHITAKER
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The only way to get the Layrite Deluxe brand out to the public at the time was to set up at shows and festivals and through that, it grew and become an industry game changer. Once word spread, in 2003, Rockabilly Monthly Magazine had a nationwide poll and Layrite Deluxe came in at number one as America’s favorite pomade by Guys and Dolls. “I don’t want history to look back and group me with all the pomades that came out over a decade after Layrite Deluxe in a so-called ‘Pomade Boom’. That needs to be called the ‘Donnie-Hawley-Got-Jocked-Boom and I am not flattered holmes!” With over 25 years cutting and shaving to his name and a brand that is recognized the world over, it is not surprising that Donnie has a few accolades to his name. His barber shop was the only one from California listed as one of the top five in the USA in inStyle magazine, and Donnie was named Barber of the Year in the US in 2005 by Intercoiffure, an elite haircutting organization. In fact, when you look back over the course of his career, he has been truly blessed. From magazine features to showing off his skills at the premiere of Tim Burton’s Sweeney Todd: The Demon Barber of Fleet Street, and even getting contracted to shave at the 2002 Acadmy Awards. D onnie was also featured on several documentaries, including Morgan Spurlock’s Mansome and the television series Café Racer. Currently, there is a documentary in production on Donnie, his life and legacy – and a biography may even be on the way. Donnie’s reach has led him not only to a celebrity client list, but to being one of the only known barbers to have his own signature slip-on shoes by Vans, and his own signature pants with customized features that men can appreciate, especially barbers, by Dickies, and his own signature Mizutani Shears, MizuDonnies. He is also the first barber in history to have custom made Signature Series 5 Star Traditional clippers by Wahl. Anyone who would claim that barbering has nothing to do with art would need to take back those words too, after an oil painting of Donnie by artist Mark Cummings had the privilege to adorn the Smithsonian Museum walls.
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STEPPING UP TO HELP BARBERS AS SHOPS ACROSS THE UNITED STATES HAVE BEGUN TO REOPEN, WE KNOW YOU’LL HAVE MORE TO THINK ABOUT THAN EVER BEFORE – INCLUDING HOW TO KEEP YOUR CLIENTS, YOUR STAFF AND YOURSELVES SAFE. Personal protective equipment (PPE) can be a major investment and Gillette wants to do its part for the barber community by providing equipment that can help better protect those of you back at work, along with your valued clients. To help keep the barber community safe as shops are reopening, Gillette is stepping up to play its part by donating 20,000 protective face shields to barbers across the country.
This is part of a larger relief effort to support workers, relief agencies and communities on the front lines of this pandemic. To date, Gillette has produced and donated more than 300,000 face shields for health care workers in response to the needs during the COVID-19 pandemic. There are limited numbers of face shields remaining! Get yours before they are gone at barberevo.com/faceshieldsforbarbers.
“SHOUTOUT TO @GILLETTE FOR SPONSORING OUR SWEET NEW FACE SHIELDS! SHAVES AND FACIALS HAVE NEVER BEEN SAFER!” PRODIGY SALON// @prodigysalon
“#SALUTE TO BARBEREVO & GILLETTE FOR DONATING THESE FACE SHIELDS TO BARBERS!” SIPP THE SURGEON// The Art of Barbering, Grand Prairie, Texas.
“The face shields help me out so much by protecting my clients and I from spreading anything around. Knowing I’m protected allows me to be at peace when cutting, I’m not so worried about the virus and I can focus on the haircut and taking care of my clients.”
“We love the new Gillette face shields! They’re super light and comfortable. Not only are they providing important extra protection for all the barbers, but our clients also appreciate them because it shows we’re taking their safety seriously as well.”
JOSUE MORALES//
ERIK ZAIATZ//
Sway Styles, Detroit, Michigan.
Bostonian Barbershop, Boston,Massachusetts.
Send us your selfies// Let us know you got your face shields! Tag @gillette & @barberevo. The best selfies will be featured in an upcoming edition of BarberEVO.
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THE GILLETTE FACE SHIELDS ARE GREAT… OUR CLIENTS LOVE THEM AND IT GIVES THEM PEACE OF MIND TO COME IN THE SHOP TO GET A HAIRCUT – THANK YOU!” MARCUS WILLIAMS// Marc Republic, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania.
Bostonian Barbershop, Boston.
EMBRACING THE CHANGE
Gillette face shields// Bostonian Barbershop, Boston.
ONE OF THE BIGGEST CHALLENGES FOR BARBERS HAS BEEN NAVIGATING THE WAY BACK TO THE BARBERSHOP. WITH NO SET FEDERAL GOVERNMENT GUIDELINES, AND EACH STATE TAKING DIFFERENT APPROACHES TO REGULATIONS, PPE AND SANITATION. WE SPOKE TO FOUR BARBERS FROM DIFFERENT REGIONS ABOUT THEIR EXPERIENCE.
MIGUEL ROSAS // MOLINE, ILLINOIS. Dealing with post-lockdown guidelines and regulations was tough, mostly because it was hard to find supplies. I needed alcohol, paper towels, gloves, hand sanitizer, thermometers and masks. It was really hard to find a lot of these things, but we had just enough to get our business up and running. Since re-opening, we have put a host of safety measures in place. When clients walk up to our building, we have a sign on the door directing them to call for an appointment and to wait in their car. They must wear a mask and if they have any COVID-19 symptoms, they won’t be admitted. All clients are temperature checked on arrival and asked to sanitize their hands and we have gaps between stations to allow for social distancing. The biggest challenge that our barber school faced when re-opening was dealing with the shortage of clientele. We were only getting about 50% of what we were used to. I decided to start a $5.00 haircut special for new clientele and it has
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helped tremendously. All our student barbers must wear a mask during services and follow the same regulations as the barbershop. We had to wait to open the academy once the governor of Illinois gave us the ‘ok’. During the lockdown, I had over 10 new students start up. The New Style Hair Academy is actually doing better now than ever before. The quarantine gave people the chance to revisit career options. So many barbershops were closed, so many people were forced to cut their brother’s, dad’s, kid’s, boyfriend’s hair. That opened the door for people to fall in love with the idea of being a barber. The barber industry is definitely booming again and will continue to rise. This business is recessionproof and I’m happy to be a leading educator in the industry. On myself and Wahl’s behalf, I’d like to say thank you to all who watched our videos during quarantine. We will continue to put out the best education – 2021 is going to be huge!
LECHE // LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA. What a rollercoaster of a year it has been for everyone. From being ready to showcase at a hair show in NY, to coming to the realization that the world was about to change. The first closure of my business was a great opportunity to take advantage of the ‘two weeks’ off to finish pending projects. Then those same two weeks became three months. The toll it took on me psychologically was immense as the industry that I believed to be unstoppable was stopped. Instagram Lives, Zooms and feed posts were on 24/7 with everyone’s worst case scenarios, best case scenarios and conversations that spread fear of what was to come. Then suddenly we had what we thought was a light at the end of the tunnel. With all the new regulations, money spent to enhance the safety of our clientele and the ability to open the shop again, we were excited to get back into doing what we loved to do. I was finally getting back into the groove when the news broke out again stating that we were getting closed down. “Here we go again!” came out of my mouth. For most of us, this is how we make our earnings and support our lifestyles. These dramatic ‘Green Light - Red Light’ situations are putting a toll on us here in California. This industry is filled with small businesses that are taking a major hit. Shops that have been opened for years and were a staple for the community are now closing. I had to resort to working outside of this industry to ensure longevity of my business. With a background in people development and sales, I had to rely on my experience to ensure that I was earning income. Through conversations I was able to acquire contracts where I created ‘sales programs’ for a construction company, a meal preparation company, and independent workout trainers. Sometimes we have to do what is needed, with or without permission, in order to survive. The only message I can give out to the rest of the world that is shut down is we must think outside of the box. We must be fighters, winners and rely on all of our abilities to push through.
TYRIK JACKSON // LANCASTER, PENNSYLVANIA.
When we first had to shut down, the conversation was about why barbershops had to shut when we understand safety protocol. We gathered that information and tried to get it to the board that regulates us, but it was a challenge getting the boards to fight for us. The problem is, the people who are advising us don’t know or understand our industry. What myself and some others have tried to do is bring leaders of the industry together to take a stand. We know that getting a haircut is not going to save your life, but it started to become obvious that government officials, news reporters and others who were in the public eye needed haircuts. We created a plan for safely returning to work, deciding what protocols we needed to reopen, and we continued having those conversations. We’ve come up with back to work proposal plans and a COVID-19 waiver, which has to be signed before clients even walk through the door. We’ve been sitting down with lawyers, state board chairmen and medical practitioners to make sure we are taking the right steps, now we have a unified voice and a clear plan that has
been created by barbers using scientific data. One of the most important things we wanted was to ensure that all barbers had the ability to collect their clients’ data. That is one of the best ways to protect you and your clients. We’ve placed plexi-glass screens between stations, ask clients to book and pay in advance, and wear masks. There are going to be a few clients who don’t want to embrace the changes, and it’s difficult to turn someone away, but you need to focus on the long-term goals, not the short-term issue. We as an industry need to take this seriously, regardless of personal beliefs. Make adjustments in the short-term so that you can keep doing what you love in the long-term. At our barber school, we’ve been doing online classroom theory this entire time, and we were able to open three weeks earlier than barbershops due to PAPSA, an organization that acts as a liaison to speak for schools. They were a huge help in proving to local government that we were safe to reopen. We’ve got PPE and screens in the school and we have staggered and rotated classes to ensure safety for our students.
JOHN CARMONA // DENVER, COLORADO. Regardless of your personal feelings on matters such as wearing masks, sanitizing your station, wearing face shields, or not shaking hands, it’s important to remember that our industry is under a magnifying glass. It is our responsibility to make sure that our shops are seen as positive, safe spaces. With the rollercoaster that is COVID-19, each State is conducting themselves differently and it can sometimes be frustrating trying to interpret government guidelines. Our shop has now been open over two months now. Fortunately, things haven’t been quite as bad in this part of the country, which has allowed us to open a little quicker. With all the news bulletins and political speeches, as well as regulatory emails, it was incredibly difficult to navigate exactly how to operate without putting our shop at risk of being fined or shut down. We clean the shop thoroughly and do our best to make sure that it looks presentable even in the midst of a busy workday. Hair is always swept up and cleaned from our stations before every client.
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Every person that walks into the shop, including ourselves, has to wear a mask at all times. We wash our hands and sanitize between every client and spray down all contact surfaces with isopropyl alcohol after every service. Waiting areas are off limits and clients must wait outside until their barber is ready. Lastly, although beard trims are allowed by the state, we have chosen not to perform them, because of the required PPE and fees associated with acquiring them. Procuring the proper cleaning solutions and equipment can be a sometimes-impossible task. That being said, taking the extra time to stock up and order items before you need them will allow you to avoid being in a difficult situation. Part of what makes the barbershop such a special place is the social interaction that is associated with it, and it can be frustrating feeling like we’ve lost a big part of what makes our jobs so enjoyable. This industry has been around for hundreds of years and will stand the test of time.
BACK TO WORK with Barbicide
THE BACK-TO-WORK PLAN IS DESIGNED TO GIVE BARBERSHOP OWNERS A PLAN OF ACTION, PROVIDING A SAFE AND SECURE WAY TO REOPEN IN A POST-PANDEMIC WORLD. THIS PLAN INCORPORATES BEST PRACTICES ACCORDING TO INFECTION CONTROL”
IT WOULD BE FAIR TO SAY THAT IN THE PAST FEW MONTHS, BARBICIDE HAS BEEN THE HOLY GRAIL FOR BARBERS. CONSIDERED THE MOST WELL-KNOWN DISINFECTANT FOR BARBERS AND HAIR PROFESSIONALS, THE BLUE LIQUID HAS BEEN IN HIGH DEMAND. BUT WHAT ELSE HAVE THE BARBICIDE TEAM BEING DOING TO SUPPORT THE INDUSTRY? For starters, they created a brand-new free certification course focused entirely on COVID-19, as Barbicide has been approved for efficacy against Human Coronavirus, including COVID-19. The program is designed to present the most current information that is pertinent to barbers and hair and beauty professionals. The certification has been hugely popular across the industry, with well over 200,000 hair professionals proudly displaying their certificate on social media. Not only does it provide barbers with peace of mind, it shows your clients that you care and are keen to follow the correct procedures. While a number of these practices, such as tool disinfecting and hand hygiene, should already be in place, the certification aims to guide you through the extra steps to prevent the spread of the virus. “The most encouraging thing for me is seeing the number of barbers, stylists and beauty professionals that are so ready to take these new challenges head on. From taking the time to get our certification online to simply engaging in conversations about best practices moving forward,” says Leslie Roste, Director of Education at Barbicide.
“That’s our goal, to provide the hair and beauty industry with as much help and support as we possibly can. We’ve even created a Back-to-Work plan for anyone who is not sure where to start or what they might need. It’s all about helping this creative industry get back on its feet.” The Back-to-Work plan is designed to give barbershop owners a plan of action, providing a safe and secure way to reopen in a postpandemic world. This plan incorporates best practices according to infection control, from how to use the different types of Barbicide correctly, Clippercide use, how to carefully and thoroughly clean and disinfect the different areas of the shop or salon, removing any non-essential items, setting up a contactless payment method and, most importantly, re-training staff on essential infection control and hand hygiene practices. Most recently, Barbicide have launched a range of podcasts and webinars focusing on a range of topics from best practices and even protecting your mental health when returning to work. Every week, Leslie Roste interviews someone from a different area of the industry, from barbering and male grooming to makeup artists.
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These webinars are designed not to tell the industry how to do its job, but simply to be good partners, providing weekly interviews with professionals from all areas including barbering, school and business owners, and state regulators and inspectors. “It’s a great platform to allow people from different parts of the hair and beauty sector to talk about what they are doing. It’s educating us doing it, so we hope it helps others too,” says Leslie. “We’re always looking for new and different ways that we can lend a hand to the industry,” says Barbicide President, Alan Murphy. “We love the passion that the hair industry has for its craft, and it’s our job not only to provide a product that helps them, but to support them and become a source of advice and information. We’ve been making some big strides recently, really trying to focus on the mental wellbeing of barbers, not just health and safety.” For more information on the Back-toWork plan or to get Barbicide certified, visit barbicide.com
Barbicide - No pretender Every client, every time
BARBICIDE BACK TO WORK PLAN u Check you have enough Barbicide and Clippercide for your shop u Discard non-essential items from waiting areas u
Wipe down all surfaces thoroughly with disinfectant, including cash register, work stations, door handles, reception counter, keyboards, phones, toilets etc.
u Place signage in window to notify clients of your safety procedures u Clean and disinfect all electrical and hand tools u Consider staggering appointments to allow time to disinfect between customers u Think about implementing an appointment system u Consider investing in a contactless payment method u Think about wearing a mask and ask clients to wear a mask u Decline services for any clients that exhibits signs of illness u Ensure all staff observe proper hand hygiene
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RETURNING TO WORK. Tracey Walker FIT Director of Education at the Institute of Trichologists (London).
As I’m sitting here writing this, barbershops and salons are learning to navigate through this ‘new normal.’ What is paramount though is the safety and well-being of yourself, your staff and your customers. You will have heard nothing but coronavirus news for the past few months but let’s remind ourselves of some of the pertinent facts: • Most viruses are much smaller than bacteria • They can only multiply when they have entered a specific host cell • Viruses trick host cells into obeying DNA or RNA instructions • Host cells can produce hundreds of new viruses in just 20 minutes, which explains why flu can come over us so rapidly • Viruses can travel 6 feet (almost 2 metres) with regular breathing – further if yelling or coughing • 60% of those carrying the virus will show no symptoms • Viruses can live for up to 4 days on
The following definitions are important to understand:
• A viricide is a chemical that is capable of inactivating viruses, so that they lose the ability to replicate, and thus to infect.
We all know that we should be washing our hands for at least 20 seconds numerous times per day. This seems a sensible thing to do. But what if you have a tendency for atopic eczema or irritant contact dermatitis? Irritant contact dermatitis can occur with frequent exposure to a weak irritant. Common irritants include soaps and shampoos, antiseptics and anti-bacterials and perfumes or preservatives in cosmetics or toiletries. The dermatitis only affects the area of skin which is in contact with the irritant. The condition is worsened by not drying your hands thoroughly after washing. It can also be made worse by heat, cold, friction and low humidity. Your risk of developing irritant contact dermatitis is increased if you suffer from atopic eczema (the most common form of eczema).
• A bactericide is a chemical that is capable of killing bacterial cells, but will not necessarily kill all bacterial spores present, as they tend to be very hardy and resistant.
What you can do to minimise the chance of skin problems whilst adhering to good practice:
• Antiseptics slow pathogenic activity, e.g. Savlon. • A disinfectant is any chemical used in the destruction, inactivation, or removal of microorganisms, reducing them to a level not harmful to health. • Sterilization will render the equipment surface completely free from viable microorganisms including viruses and bacterial spores, thus creating sterile conditions.
• A fungicide is a chemical that is capable of killing both fungi and their spores.
Key points:
plastics and stainless steel
• Barbicide is effective as a disinfectant, a fungicide and as a viricide.
The points above prove the need for special
• All implements must be cleaned after a single use. Cleaning is important prior to disinfecting to remove any dirt or grease from the equipment.
measures to be put in place prior to re-opening. Many of you will be re-designing your premises in order to comply with new restrictions. We’ve discussed in previous issues the importance of cleaning and disinfecting/sterilising equipment. Never has there been the need to do this more than now.
• Choose a mild soap which is moisturizing – if you do suffer from irritant contact dermatitis you will probably know what products to avoid. I’ve found that the anti- bacterial liquid soaps can trigger a reaction in me within 24 hours. I then spend days trying to calm the irritation. It’s better to wash your hands thoroughly in a mild soap than avoid washing them with a product you know is going to irritate.
• When filling your Barbicide jar do use warm/ hot water as this will be more effective. Use the correct ratio of Barbicide to water – hospital strength would give you the confidence of efficacy – 59ml of Barbicide to 946ml of water. Prepare fresh solution each day (more often if the solution becomes diluted or soiled) and fully immerse the objects for 10 minutes.
• Dry hands thoroughly after washing especially around and under rings.
• If using Barbicide/antibacterial spray leave for 10 minutes • If using Clippercide leave for 10 minutes
• Try to avoid oils as they can be sensitizers, further irritating skin that is already sore and cracked.
• If using antibacterial wipes leave for 2 minutes.
• Use hand sanitizing gel for extra protection as long as it doesn’t aggravate the skin.
This shows the importance of allowing time between clients in order for all tools/surfaces to be fully disinfected. There will be many challenges facing us over the next few months. One of the challenges will include looking after you and your skin.
• If you are struggling to get on top of the dermatitis you may need to visit the GP for a corticosteroid. These can have a bad name when used long-term but at times are essential and can be the only topical ointment or cream which breaks the itch/scratch cycle.
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• Apply a good hand lotion – preferably a hypoallergenic/perfume-free one. Lotions contain less oil so they more suitable when working whereas ointments tend to contain more oil so lend themselves to being applied in the evening or overnight (with the aid of cotton gloves).
GOING GREEN WHILE KEEPING CLEAN THERE IS A HUGE PREOCCUPATION WITH HYGIENE CURRENTLY AROUND THE WORLD AND RIGHTLY SO. BARBERSHOPS ARE AT THE FRONTLINE AND ARE UNDER PRESSURE TO ENSURE BOTH CLIENTS AND STAFF FEEL SAFE. NOW, EASYDRY HAS PROVIDED A SOLUTION, WITH THEIR RANGE OF DISPOSABLE GOWNS AND HYGIENIC TOWELS.
MANY BARBERS ARE KEEN TO SHY AWAY FROM DISPOSABLE TOWELS AND GOWNS DUE TO THE INCREASE IN WASTE, BUT WITH EASYDRY, BARBERS AND SHOP OWNERS CAN BREATHE EASY KNOWING THERE IS A BIODEGRADABLE SOLUTION.”
For most barbers, PPE has been high on the list of priorities. Although the use of disposable gowns and towels is not set to be mandatory in all States, there will be some expectation from clients and staff. Providing disposable gowns shows your client that their safety is paramount, but what about all that extra waste? Easydry have the solution. Made from medical-grade fiber, the Easydry disposable towels are single-use and more hygienic than multi-user cotton towels and traditional laundry. This gives both you and your client peace of mind that you are offering the highest hygiene standards possible. Made using eco-friendly processes and without the use of chemicals, they remove the issue of sustainability when it comes to disposable products. Many barbers are keen to shy away from disposable towels and gowns due to the increase in waste, but with Easydry, barbers and shop owners can breathe easy knowing there is a biodegradable solution. To reassure your customers, with every Easydry purchase, you will get a specially created hygiene sticker to place in your shop window, showing that your shop uses disposable towels and can offer a clean, fresh towel, every client, every time.
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In addition to their towels and in even higher demand in barbershops are Easydry’s new long, black, 100% compostable disposable gowns! Currently celebrating 15 years since the launch of its very first eco-friendly, hygienic towel, CEO and founder, Anne Butterly, has been listening to her customer needs during this time of crisis. “I always listen to the feedback and listening to salons over the past few difficult months, I clearly heard that salons need and want a gown that is both hygienic and eco-friendly,” she explains. So, to address these needs and as part of the anniversary celebrations, Easydry is launching their very own 100% compostable long black gown. Many barbers have been concerned about the use of disposable gowns and the extra waste they will create, but, as with their towels, these gowns are eco-friendly and just as effective. The full-length gown is ideal for all services, providing protection for the guest and the barber, with a soft material that provides the client with both comfort and reassurance. After use, the gowns can be easily composted, so you can reduce your carbon footprint while simultaneously protecting your staff, yourself and your clients.
FROM THE MOMENT THAT THE LOCKDOWN WAS ANNOUNCED, SCHEDULICITY HAS CONTINUOUSLY DONE EVERYTHING IN ITS POWER TO SUPPORT ITS CUSTOMERS AND THE WIDER HAIR AND BEAUTY INDUSTRY, FROM REGULAR TOWN HALL MEETINGS TO GRANT GIVEAWAYS.
SCHEDULICITY CARES When it became clear back in March of this year that the COVID-19 pandemic was going to have a lasting impact on the hair and beauty sector, Schedulicity were one of the first brands to step forward to try and create helpful solutions for their clients, both existing and new, to ease their financial burden and offer support during a difficult and uncertain time. An announcement from CEO Jerry Nettuno said: “Schedulicity started with the mission of helping people grow their business sustainably and to find success on their own terms. That resonated with you early on, and we are deeply grateful for the enthusiasm, loyalty, and support you’ve shown us since we launched. “These are uncertain times, and we understand that many of you are facing some difficult financial situations. We want to support you in any way that we can, which is why we’re waiving subscription fees for Schedulicity for the next three months. That applies to current businesses as well as any new businesses needing some extra help. Anyone can now sign up for Schedulicity for free.” On June 25th, Nettuno decided to extend the period, waiving fees until September 1, 2020, to help lighten the last few months’ financial burdens and allow existing and new users a transition period before payments resumed.
This though, is just one of many ways in which Schedulicity has been offering support to the industry. In addition to waiving fees, on April 1, #SchedulicityCares took on a re-brand, offering a $500 grant every Monday, Wednesday and Friday, and any Schedulicity business was and is eligible to apply. By mid-July, over 50 businesses had received the $500 grant, ranging from barbers and hair stylists to massage therapists and yoga instructors, each one a valued member of the Schedulicity community. Keen to continue to share advice and information with said community, Schedulicity has also launched a series of virtual Town Hall meetings via Zoom. Each Town Hall offers participants the chance to get advice from experts on how to keep your business moving forward, ask the Schedulicity team, and each other, questions, and get some community support from like-minded people. Some of the names to grace the Town Halls so far include Lee Resnick, Alan Lipman, Mari de Monte, Brittany Fitapelli and more. To find out more about #SchedulicityCares, Town Halls or to sign up to Schedulicity, visit essentials.schedulicity.com
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SCHEDULICITY STARTED WITH THE MISSION OF HELPING PEOPLE GROW THEIR BUSINESS SUSTAINABLY AND TO FIND SUCCESS ON THEIR OWN TERMS.”
THE CHALLENGE WE FACE IS OUR TEACHER ALWAYS KEEN TO SUPPORT THE INDUSTRY, LUSTER’S SCURL WERE QUICK TO TURN THEIR RESOURCES TO CREATING HAND SANITIZERS FOR THOSE THAT NEEDED IT MOST. HERE, THEY SHARE THEIR THOUGHTS ON THE LESSONS THEY HAVE LEARNED FROM WORKING THROUGH A PANDEMIC...
The COVID-19 pandemic has touched us all profoundly, no doubt about it. It’s impacted our businesses in all facets: our customers, our revenues, our ability to procure needed materials and supplies, our day-to-day operations and our employees. Many businesses have had no choice but to close their doors – some going out of business forever. All of us have had to adapt, and it’s not over yet. While we’ve masked our faces, this challenging chapter has remarkably uncovered our characters. We’ve feverously cleansed our hands to remove what harms us, only to learn what feeds our hearts and souls. Social distancing has somehow created greater social connection. It didn’t take long for Luster Products Company to re-purpose its Research & Development Lab and manufacturing capabilities to help fulfill the worldwide
THE GLOBAL PAUSE DEMANDED BY COVID-19 HAS AFFORDED US A MUCHNEEDED OPPORTUNITY TO EXHALE. IT HAS BENEFITED OUR FAMILIES, FRIENDS AND EVEN OUR ENVIRONMENT WITH HEIGHTENED ENGAGEMENT. 44
demand for hand sanitizer. A great many businesses and individuals alike did similar by applying their resources, time and talents to help fight the fight. Certainly, many of you have personal stories of your own to tell. Over and over, we’ve seen, heard and experienced accounts of the winning battles of greed over generosity, ‘me’ versus ‘we’, hope against hopelessness, and creativity versus cluelessness. The global pause demanded by COVID-19 has afforded us a much-needed opportunity to exhale. It has benefited our families, friends and even our environment with heightened engagement. There continue to be obstacles and adaptations as recovery ensues, however, the lessons taught to us by the pandemic have certainly revealed our resilience and perhaps more excellent ways of living as well as making a living. Stay safe. Stay hopeful.
BLACK LIVES MATTER KENNY DUNCAN
THE WORLD IS IN PROTEST AS PEOPLE CHANT “BLACK LIVES MATTER!” AND THE OUTRAGE IS UNDERLINED BY A SERIES OF UNJUSTIFIED MURDERS, WITH THE MOST WELL-KNOWN BEING THE PUBLIC STRANGULATION OF 46-YEAR-OLD BLACK AMERICAN, GEORGE FLOYD. The words “Black Lives Matter” are now echoing across the world and prompting major conflict because there are existing groups of people who don’t agree that black lives actually matter; but they do. Capitalism, designer of financial systems, works to perpetuate this dehumanizing narrative by supporting slave labor. American opportunity inequality began with slavery and continues today. The key indicators of this inequality are visible in the percentages of Black Americans within the prison population, wealth gaps, unequal education, and in the unequal access to quality and fair healthcare. There is a clear connection between American slavery and American capitalism and we can view cotton production and distribution as the very first case study to justify this argument. By 1860, 1.8 million of the 3.2 million slaves grew and picked cotton for fifteen slave states. They produced over two billion pounds of cotton which made up two-thirds of the global supply. Were these people compensated or granted the freedom to partake in the rewards of their yield? Modern day slavery has had a systemic facelift. It currently yields billions of dollars, backed by the 13th Amendment, from the cheap labor of prisoners. Black Americans are minorities in American society yet the majority in American prisons. If Black lives matter to capitalist, what exactly is being done to change these facts? We are told black lives matter; but we can’t hide our disappointment when we notice the allocation of educational funding. The American
government invests more money per student in areas where funding isn’t needed, while investing less money per student in areas where funding is dire. This results in a wide education gap. It’s believed that higher education diminishes the prison population, yet it remains that overpopulated areas with limited resources have schools that are underfunded. The phrase “school to prison pipeline” derived from harsher punishments given to black students versus white students, resulting in increased odds of incarceration by three times. Therefore, the statistics prove that inequality in education and punishments lead to an increased prison population of Black Americans. Since the quality of your education affects your earning potential, the effects of underfunding schools fit the narrative of systematic oppression—racism. Most recently the American government proved that they could distribute funds to protect the country’s economy in response to Covid-19. How could funds can be found to battle Covid-19, but not to fund a struggling school system? The achievement gap between Black Americans and other races is substantial. On average Black Americans score lower on tests and receive lower grades compared to Asians, Caucasians, & Hispanics. Poor school performance affects the allocation of school funding while hindering a vast range of opportunities for its students. Research by McKinsey & Company in 2009, have found that,“the persistence of the educational
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achievement gap imposes on the United States the economic equivalent of a permanent national recession”. As a licensed Pennsylvania barber and business owner, I was greatly affected by the state’s shutdown in response to high reported cases of COVID-19. Of course, the uncertainty of my situation was shared with ample individuals in the service and non-essential retail areas. Faced with economic scarcity, I had to take action using my influence not only as a business owner and barber but also as the US Lead Educator for Andis Clipper Company and the Global Ambassador for Luster SCurl to make a difference. Being that I have close relationships with several barbershop owners in Pennsylvania, we collectively formed a consortium—aiming for collaborative action toward progress. Jointly, we formed The Urban Barber Alliance; we have a great desire to slow the spread of COVID-19 within our communities and businesses. A few key group members are Tyrik Jackson, Darryl Thomas, Dominic Muniz, and P. Michael Boone. We band together to win back the trust of our customers – through comprising guidelines, we vow to work and perform services safely and efficiently. We also demanded concessions accrued during our mandatory shutdown. I wish Black lives mattered to the lawmakers who listen to the lobbyists for known companies who maximize profits from cheap prison labor.
“THE GOAL IS TO CREATE HABITS OF READING MORE, TO INCREASE COMPREHENSION AND COMMUNICATION SKILLS WHICH LEAD TO BETTER OPPORTUNITIES IN ALL ASPECTS OF LIFE.”
THE IMPORTANCE OF BARBERSHOPS IN BLACK AMERICAN NEIGHBORHOODS IS IMMEASURABLE. OUR FIGHT TO KEEP BARBERSHOPS OPEN AND USEFUL TO UNDERSERVED COMMUNITIES SIGNIFIES OUR BELIEF THAT BLACK LIVES MATTER.”
Their motive for the suffering of Black Americans is clearly because profits are valued more than lives. I identify as Black American despite my blend of African, Irish and Indian lineages. I am an entrepreneur with barbering at my core and my colleagues and clients are primarily Black Americans—therefore, I fight for equality. Black young men spend more time in barbershops than they do in libraries (the reason why is a separate issue). Therefore, the barbershop is used as a place to inspire young men to read and achieve more than the opportunities most often presented. Subsequently, My Brother’s Keeper initiative was formed and it provides collective involvement in the #readwhereyouare movement. The goal is to create habits of reading more, to increase comprehension and communication skills which lead to better opportunities in all aspects of life. I am also the president of the nonprofit Barbers Who Care Inc. BWC Inc. derived from the desire to meet the grooming needs of young men in underserved communities for free— helping to raise their self-esteem. Barbers Who Care Inc. has recently evolved to include the Michael Hall Adopt A Family program to additionally help meet community educational needs. These programs collectively provide yearlong scholarships for a limited number of deserving families. The importance of barbershops in Black American neighborhoods is immeasurable. Our fight to keep barbershops open and useful to underserved communities signifies our belief that Black Lives Matter.
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THE SOCIAL CLUB IT USED TO BE THAT THE BARBERSHOP WASN’T JUST A PLACE TO GET A HAIRCUT OR A SHAVE; IT WAS THE HUB OF THE COMMUNITY, WHERE PEOPLE CAME TOGETHER TO BOND, SOCIALIZE AND EXCHANGE IDEAS. THAT IS THE ETHOS THAT SEBASTIAN JACKSON HAD IN MIND WHEN HE CREATED THE SOCIAL CLUB IN DETROIT, WITH HIS WIFE, GABRIELLE. “We look at our barbershops as a wellness and lifestyle brand, even though when we first opened, we saw it as an opportunity to service college students, being located on the college campus,” says Sebastian, who started cutting hair in his parents’ garage in 2002. The idea was to give college students a place to belong. With so many students coming from outside the city and even the state, many of them would naturally feel lost or alone. The Social Club gave those people a place to gather and belong, where they could meet and get to know other people in a relaxed setting, all while getting a quality haircut. “We’ve seen people gain mentors, go into business together and more since coming to the barbershop, and it’s not just the clients but the barbers. We get people coming in from all walks of life, whether it’s a student, a college professor, or even an athlete or entertainer because of our central location and it’s great to see the relationships people create here.” In fact, inspired by the different individuals that have made their way through the doors of The Social Club, Sebastian created Shop Talk, a series of relaxed and open conversations, sharing real community stories, from chefs to music producers, where they could share their knowledge and expertise with a wider audience. Since its inception in 2012, the first Social Club has gone through a number of changes to get to the look it has now, which has a very abandoned-
house, laid-back barbershop feel, while their second location in Downtown Detroit, which is a much smaller space, has a very classic, 1920s barbershop style. “A lot of customers see barbershops as a hub of the community, a place to belong. I see barbers as community leaders. Especially black barbershops in America, they are historic community gathering spots and I think that’s becoming a global thing now,” says Sebastian. “These are spaces where black men can be themselves and be safe, and we see a real opportunity with the Social Club to franchise, giving black barbers and all barbers the opportunity to branch out and own their craft.” u
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As well as their franchising plans, Sebastian and his team have been doing all they can to support the ongoing Black Lives Matter community, partnering with the Detroit Justice Center, who focus on reducing prison sentences and providing legal representation for the black community. By selling a range of limited-edition apparel and merchandise, The Social Club was able to raise over $10,000. In a bid to contribute to The Social Club’s efforts, the Squire Technologies team pledged $5,000 to the Detroit Justice Center. Having been vocal themselves about their support of the Black Lives Matter movement, it is encouraging to see Squire supporting their customers’ fundraising efforts. The Social Club has been using Squire for the past four years, and Sebastian is very open about his reason for becoming a Squire shop: Dave Salvant. “He would fly into Detroit every so often and he’d stop by and tell us why we should use his software and then one day he got an Uber, brought two computers, set them up in our shop and took over our front desk. When I saw that dedication, that the co-founder was willing to actually run our reception to help us understand the software, I knew they were the real deal.” Moving forward, Squire is going to be pivotal as The Social Club begins finalizing plans to franchise – with the first two franchisees already secured and ready to move forward.
IN A BID TO CONTRIBUTE TO THE SOCIAL CLUB’S EFFORTS, THE SQUIRE TECHNOLOGIES TEAM PLEDGED $5,000 TO THE DETROIT JUSTICE CENTER, HAVING BEEN VOCAL THEMSELVES ABOUT THEIR SUPPORT OF THE BLACK LIVES MATTER MOVEMENT.” Images// Justin Milhouse.
“To begin with we’ll have maybe four or five in Detroit, and then we’ll start branching out to places like Los Angeles. For us, we’re looking to work with the best barbers in the industry in every market. The barbershop can be called whatever you want, but you’ll use The Social Club’s infrastructure and use Squire as the tech support and booking system, so we have this network of high-quality barbershops that are using the best technology available, in my opinion.” To see a shop like The Social Club thriving despite the ongoing pandemic is incredibly encouraging, not to mention their incredible efforts to support local communities and causes. Being able to return to a sense of normality so quickly has largely been due to the fact that in many ways, their business model hasn’t changed. While the masks and the gloves are a new addition, at their midtown location, the space is large enough for clients to easily maintain social distance, and with Squire already in place, they have been able to easily communicate with clients and maintain a seamless booking and payment system, fully contactless. “We feel safe, our clients feel safe, and it feels good to be fully operational and be welcoming our community back. I can’t wait for what’s to come,” says Sebastian.• If you are interested in franchising or to find out more about The Social Club, visit atthesocialclub.com.
SQUIRE GIVES BACK During this global crisis, the Squire team have been chipping in, offering complimentary subscriptions and marketing campaigns to new and existing customers for six months, removing the financial burden for thousands of shop owners. In an attempt to further support and inspire the barbering community, Squire began hosting Instagram Live interviews with industry leaders such as Marcus Harvey and Famos, hosting candid conversations on topics like the future of barbering, mental health, and the Black Lives Matter movement. The team have also been looking at ways to make the app work for barbers in a sociallydistanced, post-pandemic world, including creating a virtual waiting room. This feature allows barbers to wait outside or in their cars and enter only when the barber is ready for them, preventing any unnecessary contact with other clients. The app also allows for contactless payments, with clients able to pay for their service before, during or after their appointment easily. Not only does this avoid any handling or exchange of cash or cards, it allows clients to limit the
amount of time they spend in the barbershop. In addition, to protect barbers, Squire has created a waiver that customers can sign during the booking process, certifying that they have not had any COVID-19 symptoms. While legal liability over the virus is an evolving issue, Squire are keeping ahead of the curve, with the waiver intended to help barbershop owners if legal issues do arise. The app also ensures that all client contact information is easily accessible, removing the need for barbers to take down their clients’ details on arrival for track and trace systems – it’s all already there on the app. Keeping the momentum going, their latest feature, One Touch Payout is due to be released in the coming months, intended to make running a commission shop easier by allowing shop owners to automatically pay their barbers based on their commission. The new feature will also manage barber commission payouts, deposit barbers’ tips daily and allow owners to easily send barbers what they are owed each week. For more information about Squire’s features or to sign up, visit getsquire.co.uk
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SQUIRE COMMIT $20,000 TO FIGHT AGAINST INJUSTICE Dave Salvant and Songe LaRon, co-owners of Squire Technologies, the all-in-one platform powering barbershop operations, have committed $20,000 to the fight against injustice. In an announcement made on the 3rd of June via Squire’s social channels, the co-owners made clear their stance on the events of the past several weeks in America. “What we stand for is clear: Black Lives Matter.” Squire will work to be part of the solution, and will donate the generous sum equally amongst four organizations: Equal Justice Initiative, Black Lives Matter, Detroit Justice Center and Campaign Zero. We at BarberEVO applaud this stance and wish to state our own support for justice, equality and societal change as we collectively seek to stamp out all forms of racism, bigotry and injustice.
TRADE. CULTURE. EDUCATION. BUSINESS.
NORTH AMERICA.
RICHIE THE BARBER
THE RISE OF SQUIRE
ZACH RAMSEY
O C T O B E R / N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 9 // I S S U E T E N
MOVING FORWARD, SQUIRE IS GOING TO BE PIVOTAL AS THE SOCIAL CLUB BEGINS FINALIZING PLANS TO FRANCHISE – WITH THE FIRST TWO FRANCHISEES ALREADY SECURED AND READY TO MOVE FORWARD.
JOSH O’MEARA- PATEL
$10
GREY MATTER LA BRITTANY FITAPELLI ROBERT BRAID
LiVE
“It might be difficult to see, but there are positives to be taken from this lockdown. As creatives, we have a tendency to always be on the go, to be constantly focused on our work and our business. The circumstances are not what any of us would have imagined, but this is a rare opportunity to take a step back.”
THE RECENT LOCKDOWN HAS BEEN A DIFFICULT EXPERIENCE FOR THE BARBERING INDUSTRY, WITH MANY UNCERTAIN WHEN THEY MIGHT BE ABLE TO REOPEN THEIR BUSINESSES OR WHAT SUPPORT WOULD BE OFFERED.
“That might mean spending more time with your loved ones - I know I’m enjoying being able to be home with my kids more - or it might mean looking closely at your business and how you can improve things when you return, or it might just be spending some time educating yourself. There are good things to be taken from this, even if it doesn’t always feel like it.”
ALAN BEAK Co-Owner/Founder, Ruger and Booksy Ambassador.
“I had been wanting to do a re-fit of the shop for such a long time, but I couldn’t just close my shop for two weeks, Throughout this unprecedented period, here at BarberEVO we remained determined to do what we have always set out to do: support this industry. We launched #EVOLive, a series of interviews with industry leaders and experts, hosted by our own David Foster. Hosted three times a week to begin with on our Instagram channel, we aimed to provide not only lockdown advice, but also business tips, success stories and inspiration to help this industry hit the ground running. To keep you in the loop and to become a source of information and updates, we created our
weekly email blast, EVOWeekly, bringing you the latest updates from the government, barbers and the brands you love. We have loved seeing the industry come together during this pandemic, sharing some incredible education through online webinars, live streams and more, from The Barber’s Arms every Friday with Gary Machin and Simon Shaw, to every day tips and tricks from the UK & Ireland’s leading barbers. We take a look back at some of our favourite #evolive interviews, sharing key pieces of advice and updates from the past few weeks...
that would be crazy. So, when we were forced to close due to the pandemic, I made sure that time was put to good use. I kept my team informed at every stage and I showed them updated pictures of the shop as it changed. It kept me motivated and it gave my team things to look forward to. It’s converting bad news into something productive.” “Time is the most valuable thing in the world. Use it wisely, have good time management, be passionate, work hard and be a people person. That’s what makes you successful and that is what I look for in my barbers and in the people around me.”
IT’S JUST AWESOME TO SEE HOW IMPORTANT BARBERS AND STYLISTS ARE TO THEIR CLIENTS, THE TRUTH IS WE MAKE PEOPLE LOOK AWESOME AND FEEL AWESOME, IT’S A THERAPY." “Our industry is one of the most intimate of all. Social distancing whilst giving a quality haircut is a difficult, almost impossible task, so the effect on our industry has been huge. I feel now though that the fear has reduced, there’s more research and more hope, understanding, and we’ve really risen to the occasion. It really amazes me how resilient and beautiful the hair industry is – how much love and compassion they have for each other.” “Now, three months later, I feel very hopeful. I feel like change was needed; it was a very big wakeup call for this world and for the hair industry but I don’t think, I know that we are going to come back even better and stronger. Well done to our community for being so important in people’s lives, that’s what this pandemic has shown us.”
DANNY AMORIM
David Raccuglia
Andis Global Educator and Gibs Grooming Education Director.
Founder, American Crew.
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JERRY NETTUNO Schedulicity CEO/Co-Founder and Entrepreneur/Mentor.
“In everything I do, I try to think about what’s needed in the industry. When I launched Barbershop Connect, it was needed. The same for Barbercon, it was needed at that time, a show for barbers where they could make something of their own. Now, where I see everything going, I feel like it’s been going that way for a long time, it’s going to be online education.” “During lockdown I’ve really taken steps to think about how I’m going to move Barbershop Connect and Barbercon forward based on what the industry needs. I’ve had opportunities in the past to make Barbercon bigger than it is but to me, you then lose what the show is about. I wanted a community event that helps individuals and that bridges the gap between cosmetology and barbering, giving them a place where they can learn from each other.”
THE MOMENT WE WENT INTO LOCKDOWN I STARTED MAKING CHANGES AT THE SHOP. I WANTED TO BE PREPARED FOR WHENEVER WE WERE ABLE TO REOPEN."
what you are doing to prepare
“The moment we went into lockdown I started making changes at the shop. I wanted to be prepared for whenever we were able to reopen. Rather than wait to be told what to do, it seemed like common sense that we were going to be wearing masks of some sort, so one of the first things I did was get all the PPE we needed and then rearranged the chairs in the shop to allow more space between each station.
“I think the hardest thing for a lot of people during lockdown has been to keep motivated. There are days I’m sure where we’ve all wanted to sit around and do not very much at all, and that’s ok every now and again, but I’ve been doing all I can to keep myself busy.
“The biggest thing we need to focus on when we return is the survival of our industry. We need to think about the psychology of our clients, show them that we are going above and beyond to keep them and our industry safe, and that means putting any ego or status to the back of our minds.”
The great thing is that there has been so much content being shared on social media and online. We’ve adapted quickly to this new way of life and there has been some quality education on offer. Now is a great time to brush up on skills, maybe try something out that you’ve never been that good at. My recent webinars have focused a lot on nailing classic styles – particularly longer looks I still think will be on trend in the latter half of this year. It’s been great to be teaching – even if it’s not in a format I’m used to!”
“One of the best things you can do if you have concerns about our industry moving forward is to make your voice heard. Talk to elected officials and state board representatives. That’s how change gets made, that’s how we raise the status of our industry – building relationships and communicating is how we create a strong foundation.”
so that they are informed.” “Figure out how to be more efficient – cut your family members’ hair if you can and time yourself. Figure out how long it will take you to disinfect your space after that cut. Get your team ready, decide what hours you want to operate, be willing to stagger shifts. Control what you can, it is the best thing you can do for you, your team, your business and your clients.”
LISA FINUCANE Wahl Professional Director Of Education.
We also removed the long wooden bench that we had running down the middle of the shop – something I had actually been wanting to get rid of for some time. That created a lot more space and we can turn the chairs so we’re facing inwards, this way the customers and barbers will be facing each other so we might be able to at least get a little bit of atmosphere about the place”.
IF YOU HAVE A PRODUCT THAT YOU BELIEVE IN AND YOU CAN SHARE THAT WITH YOUR CLIENT, YOU CAN NOT ONLY MAKE MONEY BACK, BUT YOU GARNER TRUST IN THE PROCESS."
“If you are looking for ways you can improve things for your business on a smaller scale, now is a great time to offer retail. If you have a product that you believe in and you can share that with your client, you can not only make money back, but you garner trust in the process.”
Lee Resnick
JOth Davies
Kevin Luchmun
TYRIK JACKSON
Founder/Creator Barbercon and barbershopconnect.com.
Owner, Savills Barbers and Copacetic Gentlemen's Grooming.
Barber, Educator, Photographer.
International Educator and BarberEVO North America Columnist.
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A WORLD OF CHANGE. NO MATTER WHERE WE ARE IN THE WORLD, EVERYONE HAS BEEN TOUCHED IN SOME WAY BY THIS PANDEMIC. THINGS HAVE CHANGED, BUT OUR PASSION AND DETERMINATION HAS NOT. WE TALK TO BARBERS FROM ALL OVER WHO TELL US WHAT LOCKDOWN LIFE HAS MEANT FOR THEM.
UNITED ARAB EMIRATES// CHAPS & CO. After the initial surge of post-quarantine haircuts, which lasted about eight or nine days, business at Chaps & Co was somewhat out of rhythm and things were unusually quiet for a couple of weeks. Now though, over six weeks on, the shop is seeing a steady growth pattern and regular customers are returning to the shops in their usual cycles. “The biggest challenge has been the capacity quota,” says owner Jordan Davies. “We initially began at 30%, which we recently increased to 50%. The overwhelming surge in demand met with the lowest supply we’ve been afforded caused major issues with waitlists, customers questioning their loyalty value and barbers frustrated by not working their regular shift patterns.” Thankfully, despite having shops in Dubai and Abu Dhabi, the differences in terms of restrictions were minimal, so they were able to implement
similar practices across all the locations. That meant at first, only haircuts were allowed, but within a couple of weeks, beard trims were back on the menu, although shaves remain off-limits. “It’s been a confusing time for everyone. PPE has been a big factor in the change. The barbers must change the disposable PPE for every customer, that means face masks, gloves, and clear plastic capes,” explains Jordan. “Aside from the additional cost to the business, it’s been widely accepted by staff and customers as the general feeling is that even if the PPE doesn’t 100% safeguard against the virus, the risk is mitigated and consciously we’re accepting the new rules for our own safety. We’ve actually picked up some new customers who come to us because they expect a better service and hygiene standard from us.”
IT’S BEEN A CONFUSING TIME FOR EVERYONE. PPE HAS BEEN A BIG FACTOR IN THE CHANGE. THE BARBERS MUST CHANGE THE DISPOSABLE PPE FOR EVERY CUSTOMER, THAT MEANS FACE MASKS, GLOVES, AND CLEAR PLASTIC CAPES.” 54
ITALY// TONSOR CLUB. One of the first European countries to be forced into lockdown by the pandemic, Italy slowly began to ease restrictions and return to a sense of normality from late May, with barbershops, salons and restaurants all reopening their doors. One of the hardest hit areas of Italy was Milan and the surrounding region, but on the 18th May, Milan barbershop Tonsor Club welcomed its clients back to the barber chair. This was, unsurprisingly, a huge relief to shop owners and barbers alike, after being in a strict lockdown for over two months. “The biggest challenge has been to keep our team motivated to stay on top in Milan, not only in a market which is in crises. The challenge is to continue to surprise our customers and to offer our unique experience in this new, changed way.” The rules for continuing to practice are being kept very strict, because, outside of the pandemic, the cost of not keeping to the rules is the reputation of the Tonsor Club brand. For the team, the most important thing is to make sure their clients feel safe in their shop. This means the usual social distancing rules, but also, during services such as beard trims and shaves, which they have been performing since they first reopened, face shields must be worn to protect both barber and client. “The response from our customers was ‘I want to be treated very well, maybe even better than before because I want my own space and I want to be able to relax’, and we’ve tried our best to give our customers that. Milan is very quiet right now though, so until September it will be difficult for any businesses in the town to have high performance.” It seems inevitable that the industry in Italy and across Europe will be different, for months, possibly years to come, and it is fundamental that barbershops like Tonsor Club be prepared for these changes.
THE RESPONSE FROM OUR CUSTOMERS WAS ‘I WANT TO BE TREATED VERY WELL, MAYBE EVEN BETTER THAN BEFORE BECAUSE I WANT MY OWN SPACE AND I WANT TO BE ABLE TO RELAX’ 55
UNITED Kingdom// Johnny baba, Barber Barber. Anyone who knows me will be aware that I have never been one to mince my words and the facts are that a lot of barbershops were filthy places before lockdown. The week before lockdown began, many were posting videos of Barbicide, disposing of sharps and using hand sanitizer as though they were looking for some sort of praise by saying ‘look at me, I’m cleaning my shop’. Newsflash - that’s what we’re supposed to do every single day. Cleanliness is not a luxury; it is a necessity. My belief is this – if you ran a clean, sanitized shop before the pandemic, your customers will have every confidence that you have taken the correct and necessary measures to keep them safe. Some small adjustments such as working strictly by appointment, temperature checking, disposable towels and gowns are going to be the norm for some time but ultimately, I truly believe that there is the possibility that we will return to relative normality within the space of a few months.
However, I do think that the vast majority of the public will be far more aware of the cleanliness of their surroundings. Hopefully this will lead to our industry getting the kick that it so desperately needs to ensure the highest standards of service and cleanliness for our clients because let’s face it, if we don’t start taking ourselves seriously, how can we expect our clients to take us seriously? For us in the UK, barbershops in England reopened on the 4th July, with Scotland, Wales and Ireland following shortly after. Guidelines from the government were to wear visors, avoid any beard or shaving services and complete a risk assessment. Naturally, we had to tighten up on everything sanitary related. I for one hope it brings a new wave of not only pride in what people see when they walk into our shops, but also what people don’t see after we close our doors – meticulously monitored clean downs by barbers, senior management and shop owners, and a new dawn in professional barbering.
SOME SMALL ADJUSTMENTS SUCH AS WORKING STRICTLY BY APPOINTMENT, TEMPERATURE CHECKING, VISORS, DISPOSABLE TOWELS AND GOWNS ARE GOING TO BE THE NORM FOR SOME TIME.” 56
JOHNNy BABA KEITH CONNIFORD
NATALIE CRESSWELL THE BUZZ NETWORK CUTTERS YARD
t UK & IREL AND
BAC K TO BUSiNE SS.
| J U LY/ A U G U S T 2 0 2 0 // I S S U E T W E N T Y O N E
TRADE. CULTURE. EDUCATION.
£5//€6
GERMANY// NOMAD BARBER. At the beginning of May, Nomad Barber in Berlin opened its doors to the public again after receiving a long document from the German government detailing the restrictions and changes that they would have to make in order to operate safely. “It’s a challenge because some of the PPE is difficult to get a hold of, some simply wasn’t available and some we had to order in from China,” explains owner Miguel Gutierrez. “Obviously handshakes are not allowed, clients have to sanitize on entry and exit and both clients and barbers have to wear a mask.” On top of all that, every client must have their hair washed, disposable gowns are to be used where possible, no drinks are allowed to be served in the shop and clients are to come alone. “These are just some of the restrictions that we’ve had to put in place. It’s been a challenging time for shops in Germany but things are getting better, we’ve been able to reintroduce shaves and beard trims under strict regulations. Anyone performing these services needs to be wearing visors and FFP 2 masks without the valve outlet.” To counter the extra cost of masks and other PPE, Miguel and his team are charging each client an extra few Euros, which so far, most clients have been on board with and will hopefully only be a temporary measure. As it is across the globe, guidelines and restrictions are changing daily, with what we hope will be more positive steps forward in the coming weeks and months.
DENMARK// THE BARBERSHOP BAR.
EVERY CLIENT MUST HAVE THEIR HAIR PRE-WASHED, DISPOSABLE GOWNS ARE TO BE USED WHERE POSSIBLE, NO DRINKS ARE ALLOWED TO BE SERVED IN THE SHOP AND CLIENTS ARE TO COME ALONE.” After a successful period of lockdown, The Barbershop Bar in Copenhagen was able to reopen its doors mid-May, with strict social distancing rules and limited services. For owner Zurab, it was a joy to see a big wave of loyal clients immediately booking in as soon as they reopened their calendar. Within the first three hours, they had around 70 bookings and the numbers kept on rising for those first three weeks. “We started off with just two barbers in order to respect social distancing as much as possible. After two weeks, we introduced a third barber and we are hopefully soon going to be adding a fourth,” explains Zurab. “We have a barber who
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had already bought a ticket and was on his way to Denmark before lockdown, so it would be awesome to get a new team member on board if travel from the UK reopens.” After an initial rush, things are now starting to level out and in recent days, they have been able to open the other part of their business: the bar. Now, clients are starting to come back to get a good glass of whisky or a drink before or after their appointment and it is beginning to feel like the old days, slowly but surely. “The biggest challenge has been keeping up with the demand even though we stretched our opening hours. Also getting used to the fact that time was needed to do extra sanitation of
AUSTRALIA// PARAGON STUDIO.
In Australia, numbers have been relatively low, and although the government did close down a number of businesses, schools and universities, barbershops and hair salons were not legally obligated to close. However, Andis educator Tori Gill says that before long, closing seemed the most sensible option. “It was strange to be listed as an essential service, but it meant we could still continue to work,” says Tori. “As the numbers started to rise slightly and my colleagues and I started to feel unsafe at work, we decided to close the shop until things got a bit better.” In total, Tori’s shop, Paragon Studio, closed for a total of three weeks, opening back up as the numbers started to drop. At first, they only allowed three barbers in the shop at once, allowing every second chair to be empty to ensure they complied with social distancing, as well as ensuring chairs were sprayed down after every client and regularly using hand sanitizer. At the beginning of June, Tori and the team were able to reintroduce shaves and beard trims – services they had previously avoided offering: “The client must fill out a questionnaire first, asking them COVID-related questions, for example if they
WE WERE SO LUCKY TO ONLY BE CLOSED FOR THREE WEEKS BUT WHEN WE OPENED OUR BOOKS BACK UP ONLINE, WE WERE BOOKED OUT FOR THE FIRST TWO WEEKS IN 10 MINUTES.”
equipment and inventory between each guest, and having to limit the amount of people present at the shop. Now though, we are back to offering all services and can begin to start looking again at development and expansion,” says Zurab. Since the easing of lockdown, cases in Denmark have remained fairly low, so some of the strict measures the team originally put in place, such as temperature checks, have been dropped, although strict sanitation remains a constant. The best part though has been the support from clients, who all seem very glad to be back in the shop again: “Guests have been very glad to be able to get services offered to them again and have supported the shop immensely. The integrity
THE BIGGEST CHALLENGE HAS BEEN KEEPING UP WITH THE DEMAND EVEN THOUGH WE STRETCHED OUR OPENING HOURS.” 59
have been overseas in the last 14 days or if they have any cold or flu symptoms. If they answer yes to any of the questions, they won’t be able to have any service done at the shop.” “The biggest challenge outside of keeping up with the new regulations has been being extra careful with money,” adds Tori. “After three weeks off, I went back only three days a week and had a 25% pay cut. I know it doesn’t sound much, but the uncertainty of when we would be back full time or if we would close down again was extremely stressful. I’m back to full time which I’m so grateful for, and I know a lot of people are in much worse situations.” So, what advice would Tori give to barbers here in the UK? Most importantly: stay strong – we’ve made it this far! “We were so lucky to only closed for three weeks but when we opened our books back up online, we were booked out for the first two weeks in 10 minutes! So, once you open, you will be so busy, everyone will want their hair cut. You have to keep thinking positive, stay motivated, stay inspired. I really hope you all get to go back soon and do what you all love! Stay safe, say positive, send lots of love around the world!”
of the shop has paid off immensely, because we were able to get through this period financially and even support our suppliers by selling the products we had in stock online. That created enough turnover to get us through the first month of reopening.” In Zurab’s opinion, this can and should change the way that businesses operate and perhaps bring more conscious decision making. If the strive for financial goals can be combined with care and awareness, it will be worth the trouble that we have gone through and lead to inspirational leadership for future barbers and businesses.
CHINA// DOC’S BARBERSHOP.
KEEPING YOU IN THE LOOP Since lockdown began, we've followed the journeys of barbershops across the globe, sharing them with you through our Instagram, @barberevo. Starting with Anna Elliott's update from China back in late March, to barbershops across the US, Germany, Denmark and Australia, we have continued to bring you exclusive updates with messages of hope, advice on reopening, and experiences from barbers who have gone through it all and come out the other side.
USA. erson the Barber, H Heritage Barber Club.
Australia. Travis Bandiera, Royals Hair.
Canada. Famos, Saint.
Being at the forefront of the outbreak in China, the government took swift and effective action to prevent further spread of the virus, from closing public transport to salons and barbershops, leaving only essential businesses open, and Doc’s Barbershop owner Anna Elliott was forced to close her doors back in February. “We didn’t really know how severe it was, we were the first ones so a lot of us just didn’t take it all that seriously, myself included, so we fought tooth and nail to stay open, but the decision was eventually taken out of our hands and the government shut us down.” Luckily for Anna and her team, the heavy lockdown restrictions swiftly imposed meant that the shop was only closed for a total of around three weeks and reopened mid-March. “The first day we opened it was so busy, everyone was so happy to see us again, which was great, but we had to put some practices in place. We limited our opening hours because a lot of people were still working from home and the evenings were quieter.” Now, Doc’s Barbershop has been back open for three months and things are slowly getting back to normal. Business has picked up and more people feel comfortable enough to make their way to the shop using public transport. Very few people in Shanghai have their own cars, so public transport is the only option unless you ride a scooter or a bicycle, so things have really started to improve in that sense. “After the first rush, business was very slow,” says Anna. “We were probably down 50% from
our usual client intake, which meant we had to let some staff go and really restructure our business and downsize wherever possible. Thankfully though, business has picked up in the last month and we are starting to see some improvements, which is a huge relief. We are also about to launch a new mini program on WeChat to try and increase revenue by making booking easier than ever.” Ever since they reopened, hygiene has been paramount, and it continues to play a vital role in how the business is run. Anna and the team review their daily cleaning schedule regularly, ensuring that all staff members know what is expected of them, but they have been able to remove initial measures such as taking temperatures at the door. “Shanghai has been downgraded to the ‘low-risk’ category, so most places have relaxed the rules. We are even allowed to travel to nearby provinces, but the border remains closed so the risk level is much lower than before,” explains Anna. “We still require our staff to wear a mask when serving their customer, and the customer can choose to keep theirs on or off. We’ve also been able to resume shaving and beard trimming, so other than the masks and the cleaning schedule, we are pretty much operating as we used to.” Anna expects that the masks will be staying put for the foreseeable future, and that this whole situation will have a bigger impact on our social interactions in general, not just limited to barbershops. “A lot is likely to change here when the border opens again but until then, we are all just enjoying being able to relax a little and get back to cutting hair!”
NOW, DOC’S BARBERSHOP HAS BEEN BACK OPEN FOR THREE MONTHS AND THINGS ARE SLOWLY GETTING BACK TO NORMAL. BUSINESS HAS PICKED UP AND MORE PEOPLE FEEL COMFORTABLE ENOUGH TO MAKE THEIR WAY TO THE SHOP USING PUBLIC TRANSPORT." 60
CANADA// VICTORY BARBER & BRAND.
For Matty Conrad, reopening four barbershops in Canada under new guidance was no easy feat, but now, after opening at the beginning of June, the team has found its rhythm and has embraced this new way of operating. The most important thing for Victory Barber was ensuring that all of the shops had proper signage. Local and district-wide health boards made it clear they wanted to see rules and regulations clearly displayed in the shop. To adhere to this rule but prevent creating an environment that felt too sterile, they created their own signage and decals for the shop, to create a more natural transition. “We made our own hand sanitising station with our own decals – which are all free to download from our website – and it just creates a more natural vibe in the shop,” says Matty. “Most of the things that we are being asked to do, shops should have been doing anyway, with the exception of wearing masks and obviously observing social distancing.”
When clients come into the shop, they are asked to come in with clean hair and be wearing a mask. Before their service begins, they must sanitise their hands and obviously, no handshakes are allowed – although they did provide a video on their Instagram with a list of alternative greetings, including the macarena, although no one has yet taken them up on that! “We’ve put in sterilising cabinets for things that we can’t submerge in Barbicide, so that’s something that we’ve added, and beard services are off the menu for now. So far everyone has embraced the change and been really respectful of the rules in place, we just want to make sure that both barbers and clients feel safe and comfortable in the environment.” “What we’re dealing with right now is the mental health aspect, not just physical safety. A lot of people want to see visible steps and measures, it makes them feel more comfortable and confident., that’s the most important thing for us.”
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WE’VE PUT IN STERILISING CABINETS FOR THINGS THAT WE CAN’T SUBMERGE IN BARBICIDE, SO THAT’S SOMETHING THAT WE’VE ADDED, AND BEARD SERVICES ARE OFF THE MENU FOR NOW. SO FAR EVERYONE HAS EMBRACED THE CHANGE AND BEEN REALLY RESPECTFUL OF THE RULES IN PLACE."
SQUEAK PRO BARBER. JRL EDUCATOR & BOOKSY AMBASSADOR
ERIK VILLAFANE, BETTER KNOWN AS SQUEAKPROBARBER, IS NOT ONLY A FIRST-CLASS EDUCATOR FOR JRL AND A SOCIAL MEDIA GURU, HE IS A LEGEND IN THE ARENA, WITH OVER 43 BARBER BATTLE WINS TO HIS NAME. HERE, HE TELLS US HIS REMARKABLE STORY... Erik’s journey to the barbering world is not an uncommon one; he began by cutting his own hair as a kid, branching out to friends and family, but never believing it would be his full-time career. In fact, Erik originally wanted to be a cartoonist, even gaining a scholarship for Rhode Island School of Design. As time passed, drawing began to fall to the wayside, while Erik continued cutting hair, and DJing, on the side. In 2005, he moved to Florida and got a job in a barbershop, but, at least in the beginning, it was simply a way to make money. “When Instagram started getting big, that’s when things changed for me. I started following barbers and I looked at their shots and I was so amazed by how clean and crisp their cuts looked, even the quality of the picture was unreal,” he explains. “I started taking shots of my own work and it made me a better barber. I’d see imperfections when I looked through the camera and I’d go back and fix it.” Around the same time, he went to his first barber battle, spurred on by his friend and current business partner, Joel Padilla. The very first battle he entered, he came first place. “I thought it was really cool and it was a whole different mindset so I just kept going... before I knew it, I was at 10, 15, 20 wins, now I have 43! It got to a point that every battle me and Joel went to, we always won – we were like the LeBron and Jordan of the barber battles!” Of course, when you have a partnership that works, there is no sense in changing it, so, with almost 100 barber battle trophies to their name,
Erik and Joel opened up their own barbershop together: Members Only Chop Shop. “Between the both of us, we were able to use our winnings from battles to open the shop so we didn’t have to be out of pocket, and in the shop, we have this shrine with all our trophies on it. It’s funny when I think about it, Instagram was what inspired me to become a better barber, it is what led me to win barber battles and how I grew my own social media,” he says. u
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THE NEW FRESHFADE 2020C HAS A LOT OF NEW FEATURES. THE FIRST IS THE SIDE LEVER, WHICH JUST MAKES IT FEEL SO TRADITIONAL, BUT IT’S FAR MORE ADVANCED THAN YOUR AVERAGE CLIPPER. SECOND, NOW WE HAVE THE LEVER, THE BLADE OPENS UP TO A NUMBER ONE, AND THAT MAKES IT SO EASY WHEN YOU ARE FADING.”
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JRL FRESHFADE 2020C CLIPPER JRL’s newest and most exciting model yet, the 2020C Clipper features advanced lever-locking, keeping the lever secure for extended use, with a quiet motor, adjustable speeds and a revolutionary cool blade.
$160.00 // jrlusa.com
I LOVE THAT JRL ENCOURAGE US TO GIVE FEEDBACK AND CONTRIBUTE TO THE PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT PROCESS. I CAN’T WAIT FOR PEOPLE TO SEE THE NEW RANGE BECAUSE IT’S GOING TO BE INCREDIBLE!” “I did a lot of online competitions too, like Barbersinctv, and repost pages were huge back then, so that helped me grow my presence. I also spent a lot of time liking and engaging with everyone else’s work, whether I knew them or not - I wanted to share the love and give others encouragement.” Today, Squeak has a following of over 93,000, and the numbers continue to climb. With such a strong presence, it was inevitable that he would attract the attention of brands like JRL, although his first interaction with the brand was somewhat unconventional. “It was at one of the battles that put me on their radar. I wanted to use one of the guys from their booth as my model. They saw me cut their guy and I ended up winning, then Drew approached me to be on the team, they sent me their clippers to try and at first, I didn’t think they were right for me. I took some time and figured out a system, and no lie – that’s the only clipper I use now,” he laughs. “It’s so weird because I was really unsure, and then I changed the way I cut and that clipper just made it so much easier. I was excited as well because JRL wanted to learn from us, they wanted my insight on how to create a great clipper.” As the partnership grew, JRL and Squeak continued to work together to provide first class education to the barber community and develop a line of quality clippers and trimmers that were inspired by the needs of the people who were going to be using it: barbers. “The best model I like working with is the FreshFade 1000, the first one they ever gave me, and it doesn’t even have any of the changes that myself and the rest of the JRL team suggested but it is my go-to clipper! I just think it’s so light and easy to work with – but I also can’t wait to see this new line of clippers and trimmers that I helped influence.”
“The new FreshFade 2020C, where do I even start? It has a lot of new features, two that stand out to me the most. The first is the side lever, which just makes it feel so traditional, but it’s far more advanced than your average clipper. One of the other features that I like the most is, now we have the lever, the blade opens up to a number one, and that right there makes it so much easier when you are fading.” Unfortunately, due to the COVID-19 pandemic, the launch of the new JRL clippers and trimmers was delayed, and, like so many, it is not the only problem Squeak has had to face in the past few months. Never one to shy away from a challenge, he acquired and fully kitted out a second barbershop in January, which he had hoped to open in March. “I didn’t expect the pandemic to have such a big effect, and I’m not gonna lie, it has been difficult, it’s been hard to find barbers, but the shop looks great, we’re open and the clients are loving the look! Going to appointment only was tough too, we had always accepted walk-ins along with bookings.” “Thankfully, I use Booksy so it made for a smoother transition, that app makes my life so much easier, each day I wake up and my schedule is there waiting and I can just go. They have been so great during this process as well, the way they developed the ‘I’m Ready’ feature was amazing.” As the industry begins to heal and move forward, Squeak is excited for what the future holds, from seeing the latest JRL clippers released, to launching back into education and training new barbers at the shop, even dreaming of one day opening his own barber school. We can’t wait to see what he does next. •
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HASSAN WHITAKER
Images// Bryon Purnell III and DVI FOTO.
A SECOND-GENERATION BARBER, ONE OF THE BEST GIFTS HASSAN WHITAKER’S FATHER EVER GAVE HIM WAS HIS UNWANTED, USED AND BROKEN CLIPPERS. TODAY, NOT ONLY DOES HE HAVE HIS OWN SUCCESSFUL BARBERSHOP, HE IS A RENOWNED EDUCATOR AND BOOKSY AMBASSADOR. “Watching my father as a barber naturally sparked my curiosity. He is not very mechanically inclined, so a clipper that was ‘broken’ to him had limitless possibilities for me,” says Hassan. Following in his father’s footsteps, Hassan graduated Tri-City Barber School in Philadelphia in 1995 and set about making his dream of owning a barbershop come true. “I opened my first shop with two brilliant partners in 1999. Even though we had an extremely successful business, I was looking for more, I was full of ambition. Since then, I’ve launched additional barbershops and had the honor of working with some of the greatest talent in our industry, as well as traveling internationally, barbering for celebrities, athletes and brands like Booksy and Clubman Pinaud.” Today, Hassan is business partner and Chief Operations Officer at Ethos GSFM, a premium barbershop designed to bring a distinguished grooming experience to the metropolitan gentleman. The mission statement of the shop is ‘to impact, improve and elevate the industry’, curating
an experience like no other, offering memberships, complimentary refreshments, shoulder massages and three signature grooming experiences. With this level of care and service, the shop is run on appointments. To manage his bookings, Hassan uses Booksy, although that was not always the case. “In the past I used several booking systems but I never felt they truly understood the complex relationships that we share with our clients. The personal service industry is unique and we can’t fit into the other cookie-cutter platforms. Booksy allows me to clearly communicate with clients from all walks of life. I can email, text message blast, send push notifications and even post to social networks from Booksy.” In 2017, Hassan was honored to be asked to become an ambassador for Booksy, which came just in time, as he was looking to market and promote his personal brand. “Honestly, the exposure was a challenge and I had second thoughts, but the validation of being contacted by a major brand like Booksy truly made
BOOKSY ALLOWS ME TO CLEARLY COMMUNICATE WITH CLIENTS FROM ALL WALKS OF LIFE. I CAN EMAIL, TEXT MESSAGE BLAST, SEND PUSH NOTIFICATIONS AND EVEN POST TO SOCIAL NETWORKS FROM BOOKSY.”
me feel like the hard work was paying off. It’s great being associated with a talented ambassador team of barbers, stylists, makeup artists and nail technicians,” says Hassan. Having Booksy by his side has been a major advantage to Hassan and his fellow team members at ethos GFSM trying to navigate this new COVID-19 landscape, allowing them to not only contact clients, but manage bookings and give updates on procedures. “They have added health and safety rules so you can build a custom waiver form. That allows you to set up a booking protocol, requiring customers to acknowledge your safety measures each time they book.” “The app also has a new feature called ‘I’m Ready’, which sends an alert to your next client so that if they are waiting nearby, they will know when to come into the shop to avoid over-crowding. And finally, my personal favorite, Contactless Payment. Clients can pay in advance or deposit a percentage prior to their visit. They can even tip you at the end of the service through the app, friction free!” For Hassan, Booksy is a way to be more professional, be better organized and more efficient. The software allows barbers to track vital statistics, such as client retention, helps you identify peak times and more. It is also extremely helpful for a barber as in demand as Hassan. Prior to the pandemic, you would often find him traveling across the country and beyond for his role not only as a Booksy ambassador, but a Clubman Pinaud AND Woody’s Educator. “The opportunity to work with Clubman and Woody’s came around the same time as my role with Booksy ambassadorship. A friend of mine kept inviting me to expos and trade shows, he saw something in me and encouraged me to be myself. I didn’t feel that I fit into the traditional barber mold; I wore blazers, dress shirts, loafers and lace ups. At one particular show, I was introduced to Clubman and the rest was history!” There are still many challenges facing the barber industry right now, and obstacles to overcome, but Hassan is keeping positive and keen to get back to his goals. The year is not over yet, and it’s time to get back on track...
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GOING TO GREAT LENGTHS
WHILE SOME CLIENTS ARE PICKING UP THE CLIPPERS AND TRYING THEIR HANDS AT FADES AND SHAPE UPS WITH VARYING DEGREES OF SUCCESS, OTHERS ARE LETTING IT ALL HANG OUT. We might be stepping back behind the chair, but until those dodgy DIY cuts and long, not-soluscious locks are under control, it won’t exactly be business as usual...
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POST
LOCK(S)-DOWN 69
JUST WORK WITH WHAT YOU’VE GOT...
BALDY// ANDIS EUROPEAN LEAD EDUCATOR & MVRCK EDUCATOR.
A TEXTURED LOOK CAN HIDE A MULTITUDE OF SINS, AS LONG AS THERE ISN’T A CHUNK CUT OUT DOWN TO THE SCALP, MOST THINGS ARE GENERALLY FIXABLE. From dodgy fades to buzz cuts, we all know the bad home haircuts are on the way. So, Andis European Lead & MVRCK Educator Baldy shares his tips and tricks on how to manage client expectations and fix those lockdown nightmares... How we go about fixing bad haircuts largely depends on the clients’ needs. If they are keen to go shorter on their hair, it’s an easy enough fix. Simply putting in a quality fade will cover up the work of their partners, parents or whoever is responsible. The other way round it is, if someone has hacked about on top, you can suggest something textured. A textured look can hide a multitude of sins, as long as there isn’t a chunk cut out down to the scalp, most things are generally fixable. Something choppy that is styled dry using the MVRCK Grooming Spray and Dry Paste will give you an on-trend look that will cover issues on top. I always use my Andis Master Cordless and the Andis US Pro Cordless because they are so easy to pick up and importantly, clean down. They are my go-to clippers for shorter cuts and they are powerful, which I need right now given how busy we are! Always have a trimmer handy; I use the Andis Slimline Pro. I like to have two of each clipper at my station so that I can be using one while the other one is charging. It means I can disinfect the second clipper and keep them in a safe space where there won’t be any issues with contamination. Any longer styles are easily remedied because you can simply go a little bit shorter – what you can’t
do is grow the hair back. If you can take it shorter, whether that’s an inch, a half-inch, or going all the way to a skin fade, it will remove the problem. It’s just a case of making your client feeling at ease when you go about making those changes. You should be suggesting new or different styles, now is a great time for it, so talk to your client and see what they are willing to try. Sometimes you will get a client that has a bad haircut and even though they know the cut is bad, they say they don’t want to lose too much of their hair. Unfortunately, it is your job as the barber to explain to them that in order to fix the cut and get them back to normal, there will be an initial loss. It might take two or three cuts for the hair to grow back to where they want it, so in the meantime, give them a style that they can work with and that looks good, and explain to them what and why you are doing it. Another issue that is going to come up is beards. From what I gather, we might not be able to offer beard trims when we first go back to work. So, the best way around that is to try and guide your client on how to trim their beard at home. There are plenty of beard and skin products that they can use, such as the MVRCK Skin + Beard Lotion, to help keep it healthy so that when beard trims can resume, their beard is in the best possible condition. As barbers, it is part of our job to educate our clients on the products available to them and why it will not only keep their beard more manageable, but it will help us when we get back to normal.
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ANDIS CORDLESS ENVY LI ANDIS NATION FADE CLIPPER Following the admired Andis Nation Limited Edition clipper released a few years ago, Andis has launched another colorway featuring another unique design. Ideal for executing tapers and fades, its blade adjusts from 000 to 1 via a convenient side adjustment lever and is lightweight for easy handling.
$78.33// andis.com
StepbyStep
The New Natural Step 01. With your Andis MasterÂŽ Cordless clipper, remove bulk using the clipper-over-comb technique.
Step 02. Establish your guideline with a Master dual magnet #3 attachment comb.Â
Sid Sottung
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The Tools.
Step 03.
Step 04.
Cut the hair using a c-stroke motion with the #1.5 attachment comb – this decreases the distance to the guideline to work with the head shape better.
Apply the #0 attachment comb, continuing the same c-stroke motion to blend. The 1.5mm size is vital – the smoothness of the design creates a flawless blend.
Step 05.
Step 06.
Refine the blend with a finishing clipper-over-comb technique.
Complete the haircut with an Andis Cordless T-Outliner® trimmer for a superb, sharp finish.
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Images// Dan Lord.
TAKE YOUR TIME. TAYLORCUTZ// @TAYLORCUTZ1. The major tip I have for facing bad DIY haircuts is communicating with the client and making sure intentions are clear about what can be done to fix the mistake. You may need to prolong their appointment as they need to let the area grow back in. Use the same open communication to figure out what tools your client used at home to help connect any heavy weight lines and blend everything. The client may need to be open to a shorter fade than they originally wore to help compensate for the mistake. By taking your time, you will be able to get your client back to their intended goal look. Overall communication, patience, and time will help get clients back to their goal cut and right any wrongs they may have done to their hair and beard while in quarantine. As I begin to open my schedule, I have set up a new normal in my daily protocols. I am following the protocols that my state has put in place and I have added to it so that I can better guarantee the health and safety of my clients and myself. Having a private studio, it is easier to maintain client traffic and sterilization. I only see four clients a day, making sure that none of my clients overlap and I have scheduled cleaning time in between to disinfect and sanitize all surfaces and tools before my next client arrives. Upon arrival, I have them sanitize their hands and take their temperature, then they complete a health assessment as well as a health liability. Since I am currently limiting to four clients and not taking any new clients, I prep a personalized grooming bag for each appointment. It includes towels, a cutting cape, all the clean combs I need for each client, new razor blades, and gloves for myself. This allows for an easy transition between clients and prevents the possibility of cross contamination. All clients are required to wear a mask. I have my client adjust their mask as I perform the cut. When it comes to work on their facial hair, they will remove the mask accordingly while I still keep mine in place. I work efficiently to limit the open contact while still maintaining the integrity of my work. One of the biggest decisions I made prior to reopening was to raise my pricing and have it aligned with the new protocols that have been added to my services and timing. I explain the increase to all my clients and share with them the new protocols. I assure them that these protocols have not impacted the service they receive and instead only increase the quality as I keep their health in mind. My clients have continuously expressed how thankful they are that I am taking the extra precautions and embrace the new set up. Using an online booking system during this transition has helped me manage my client’s information and allows for smooth communication, booking, and contactless payment. The booking system integrates with my website www.Taylorcutz.com, making it one platform.
I AM LEAVING MY CLIENTS WITH A SMILE AS THEY WALK OUT OF THE STUDIO HAVING HAD THEIR LOOK BROUGHT BACK TO LIFE.”
I have a very diverse clientele as they range from business professionals, athletes, music entertainers, and high-profile industry leaders; each with their own look that they want and need to preserve. As my clients begin to come back, they are coming in with a fresh canvas. They put trust in me to tailor a fresh style for them as they embrace the change that this quarantine has brought. I am getting more requests for tapers as my clients want to keep the length of hair that they have been able to grow out during quarantine. ‘Embracing the new change’ is the statement I would use to describe the styles I am delivering as we slowly return to a ‘new’ normal. I am leaving my clients with a smile as they walk out of the studio having had their look brought back to life.
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LIFE IN COLOR. DALLAN FLINT// KEUNE AMERICA EDUCATOR.
THE MOST IMPORTANT THING WHEN IT COMES TO WORKING WITH MEN’S COLOR AND COLOR-CORRECTIONS IS TO KEEP AN OPEN MIND.”
The great thing about working on men’s hair is that they love having fun playing with color and experimenting with fashion colors. The ones who do fashion colors aren’t as committed as our female clientele and usually switch it up every time they come in. Our platinum and silver haired male clientele know it takes a lot of maintenance to keep the brassiness away, so some have appointments in between regular haircuts to get a glaze/toner service done, and they’ve invested in the take-home products needed, like Keune’s Silver Savior and Bond Fusion 3. We’ve all seen fried blonde hair and it ain’t cute! That’s not to say we haven’t seen any home dye jobs. During quarantine we had a few customers try box dye and at-home lightening. The bleaching was patchy and ended up being a yellowy orange, so we had to do some minor color-correcting to fix it. Our clients who resorted to box dyes mostly just complained about it not turning out the right color and that it left the hair dull and dried out. We helped get their hair back to health with a few haircuts, some toning and some deep conditioning treatments. The best way to approach color-correcting is to clarify the hair, perform a test strand to assess what you’re working with and reassure your client that you can get their hair looking and feeling the way it did, it might just take more product than usual, or an extra appointment or two. It may cost a bit more than usual too, so be honest with them but reassure them you can handle it because you are a pro. What’s been great these past few weeks though is a lot more of our male clientele are requesting highlights, frosted tips, all-over platinum and bright fashion colors like green, teal, denim blue, hot pink and purple. We use the Keune color collection for all our color work and it always leaves the hair looking and feeling rich and luxurious, ensuring hair is protected, healthy, shiny, and happy! The most important thing when it comes to working with men’s color and color-corrections is to keep an open mind and never stop learning. Never stop experimenting and trying new things. This relates to products, mixing and experimenting with those products, and the coloring techniques you use. I teach creative color classes throughout the year and an editorial remix class that goes over the entire process of shooting a collection and creating stunning, eye-catching work. That’s what I love about color, there is always a new style or technique to try, it is a creative world and I really appreciate that my male clients are embracing it.
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ALL ABOUT THAT SHAPE. PETE GOUPIL// NAHA 2019 MEN’S HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR.
THE MOST IMPORTANT THING FOR ANY GOOD HAIRCUT IS THE SHAPE - THAT IS KEY TO ANY STYLE, BUT MORE SO LONGER MEN’S STYLES.” I think it goes without saying that we have all already seen and will probably continue to see some bad homemade cuts – and also the odd client who has grown out their hair and wants to embrace it. I really hope we see more people embracing long hair. I am sure many guys prefer to return to their shorter styles for practical reasons – and I have a feeling that the summer heat might have a role to play too in the coming weeks. From what I have seen in the past trying to grow my client’s hair, a lot of the time it is classic looks styled with a little more texture and little less sleekness. Sides tend to stay shorter than tops but longer than fades – short enough to be clean around their ears, as most guys tend to have an issue with having hair over their ears – and long enough to have texture. I’ve been trying to grow out my clientele’s hair for at least three years now, so I really want them to be at least willing to experiment. Plus, I’ve been fortunate enough to work for some of the biggest men’s product brands and receive some great long hair education, so I’m always keen to put it to good use! The most important thing for any good haircut is the shape – that is key to any style, but more so longer men’s styles. You’re also probably going
to need to change product – you can’t necessarily use the same ones that you use for shorter hairstyles. To me, the most important thing for long hair though is not washing it every day. If you have a client who is sticking with a longer look, encourage them to only wash their hair once a week with shampoo, and just conditioner wash every other day. I prefer using a plant or herb-based conditioner, but if you have a shampoo or product line that you believe in, educate your clients about it and tell them how to use it. I think it’s also fair to say though that my preferences and my skillset play a role in the kind of clients and hairstyles I get. Starting as a hairstylist before transitioning to barbering got me comfortable with shears and longer hair, so I always welcome those kinds of cuts. I can’t lie that I prefer hiring a barber who has previous experience as a hairstylist. To me, being good with all my tools and different lengths of hair was always more important than just giving my clients a great fade, so I do believe barbers should be comfortable with all hairstyles and vice versa. It just means that, post-lockdown cut or not, you can offer your clients a variety of options, which can only be a good thing.
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BREAK OUT THE SCISSORS. THE GREAT THING ABOUT LONGER HAIR ON MEN IS QUITE OFTEN IT CAN BE EVEN EASIER TO CREATE AND MAINTAIN THAN A SHORT, MORE DETAILED CUT. ONCE YOU HAVE A TECHNICAL UNDERSTANDING OF THE FUNDAMENTAL SUBJECTS LIKE LAYERING AND GRADUATION.”
SEAN MOORE// MENSPIRE CREATIVE DIRECTOR. Firstly, I cannot wait to be back behind the chair looking after everyone’s post-lockdown hair, whatever it is! There are certainly going to be some transformations to be done, which is really great for us as an industry. There will be a few different types of clients coming into the shops, some who have decided to hold out and leave their hair completely, some who got a helping hand from family members, and even those who attempted to cut their own hair or went for the buzz cut. I think we have a great opportunity as stylists post-lockdown. I feel that many clients are now valuing their barbers even more than before and a lot of them will be more than happy to take advice from their stylist. A thorough consultation will be key in advising new styles. Although many will be embracing the longer lengths, it is also important to remember that fades are not going anywhere and many clients will be looking forward to having their hair short again. The great thing about longer hair on men is quite often it can be even easier to create and maintain than a short, more detailed cut. Once you have a technical understanding of the fundamental subjects like layering and graduation, you can create long hairstyles in a salon-friendly appointment time. Expect to see a lot of naturally styled looks flowing away from the face.
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If you haven’t been able to open yet, then use your time to practice techniques on mannequin heads. There has been so much free education available on social media, which has given the industry some much-needed positivity at a tough time. It is really important that as stylists, we understand techniques to deal with all hair lengths post-lockdown. I think we will certainly see a trend change in men’s hair in the latter half of this year. Whatever the hair length, styles are ultimately becoming softer, textured and more undone. Strong, internal structures with softer external edges give the hairstyle longevity. Using tools like the MENSPIRE Finger Razor can assist us in creating those more undone textures I speak of. Quite often with men’s hairstyles, less really is more. The key is to make sure that however you cut the hair, it is manageable for the client. Educating your clients on using the right products is very important. In longer men’s hair, my go-to product is the MENSPIRE Rough Stuff – it’s a great product that can be applied to towel dried hair and left to dry naturally to give pliable hold, texture and natural shine. At MENSPIRE, scissor skills play a big role, and I think they will continue to when the Coronavirus Pandemic is a distant memory, so if you are a little hazy, now is the time to revisit those scissor skills and get ready, those long locks are coming!
EMBRACING TEXTURE. DANA HODGES CASCHETTA// EUFORA INTERNATIONAL TRAINER.
THE LENGTHINESS OF LOCKDOWN HAS ALLOWED CLIENTS TO GET PAST THE AWKWARD PHASE OF GROWING OUT A HAIRCUT, THIS IN TURN ENCOURAGES THEM TO KEEP THEIR HAIR LONGER.”
It has been really refreshing to have a blank canvas with options. With clients having that time to be able to grow their hair, we have the opportunity to create something brand new. As men’s hair gets longer, their true texture is revealed – I see a lot of guys embracing their natural texture in these new, longer looks. The lengthiness of lockdown has allowed clients to get past the awkward phase of growing out a haircut, this in turn encourages them to keep their hair longer because they are given a rare opportunity to see what their hair could be like. I am a big believer in embracing natural texture and shape. For textured hair I see large geometric shapes, flat tops and cropped bowls. Also, Teddy boy and retro mullets with natural movement, which have been making a comeback for quite some time. I think overall as barbers and stylists, we shape the exterior but continue to keep movement in the interior – that makes a beautiful marriage of effortless and structure.
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I have always supported the androgynous trend in both men’s and women’s hair over the last year or so, and I think lockdown has accelerated the path to longer men’s hair that we were already on. The key to a great longer look on men is proper styling and product usage. It’s more about maintaining with longer hair. I recommend to tame unruly hair with proper styling tools like boar hair brushes, and frizz controlling products – a favorite of mine is Eufora Hero’s Grooming Cream. I also say embrace with grace. Cowlicks, texture and shape are all really beautiful when they are styled naturally and not forced. For me, during lockdown, I didn’t come up with the newest technique, I didn’t discover a new way to cut hair, instead I spent my time evolving as an artist as a whole. I think that a lot of barbers and hairdressers felt like they should have utilized their time improving their craft. However, spending time personally, creatively and spiritually in any way will contribute to your growth as an artist, in my opinion!
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ONE OF THE LATEST EXCITING ADDITIONS TO THE WAHL PROFESSIONAL TEAM, NAHA WINNER JAMIE DIGRAZIA TELLS US EXCLUSIVELY ABOUT HER EXCITING NEW ROLE AS THE WAHL 1919 STYLING AND FINISHING LINE EDUCATOR, WHY SHE OPERATES A GENDERLESS PRICING SYSTEM AT HER SHOP AND HOW VITAL A ROLE RETAIL EDUCATION WILL PLAY IN THE COMING MONTHS...
The Retail Educator.
JAMIE DIGRAZIA
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Originally trained as a cosmetologist but specializing in short hair, Jamie DiGrazia is now the proud owner of Logan Parlor, an award-winning inclusive hair salon, in Chicago. “After graduating I was still so keen to learn more, so I went to every class I came across, even traveling to learn whatever skillset I was trying to improve on, so education has always been a part of my background. Then I went on to work as an educator for Redken, developing a lot of their classes and education in men’s grooming,” says Jamie. “I used to go and sit at the WAHL booth at shows and just watch and listen and the more I took that back to the chair, the more I improved. I would see work that other people had done and want to recreate it myself and I found education so empowering, so I’ve always been keen to give that back to other people.” Since she first got her license 18 years ago, Jamie has built up an impressive resume as an awardwinning stylist, winning the NAHA Men’s Hairstylist of the Year award in 2018. Throughout her career, Jamie has always been drawn to shorter styles,
which she attributes to growing up in and around the LGBT+ community. “A lot of my friends had really short hair and I was just trying to work it out on their heads and I ended up getting pretty good at it. I just really enjoyed the look and feel of shorter, textured hair because I feel there is more creative freedom. It grows back quickly so you can change the style regularly. I feel like people who have short hair tend to be more open and are more likely to go for something a bit edgier or experimental. I love that you can do one cut but get a range of different styles from that cut depending on the product you use.” When it came to opening Logan Parlor, Jamie wanted the focus to be on inclusivity, and removing any clear genders from services. Even the name Parlor is intended to be neutral, rather than labeling the space either a barbershop or a salon. To further enhance this message, the pricing structure in the salon is based entirely on the length of your hair, so whether you are male, female or nonbinary, you pay the same price as everyone else.
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THE WAHL 1919 STYLING AND FINISHING LINE CONSISTS OF 11 PRODUCTS THAT INCLUDE HAIR CARE, HAIR STYLING, BEARD CARE AND SKIN CARE THAT BARBERS AND STYLISTS CAN USE AND SELL TO IMPROVE THE LEVEL OF STYLE AND SERVICE THEY OFFER THEIR CLIENTS WHILE INCREASING THEIR OWN REVENUE.”
“After working in shops with gendered pricing I just didn’t see how it made sense,” explains Jamie. “I wanted to eliminate that from the beginning and it felt like the right thing to do. I wish more people would do it because it’s actually been a great thing for our business. With everything being based on length, the schedule is more bookable and it’s a system that works for us.” “Think as well about your team – we try to make sure that whoever walks in the door, they will feel welcome and their hair will be treated properly no matter what kind of texture hair they have. Hire people that have skills with natural hair, long hair, short hair... hire those people and you will open yourself up to a range of clients.” Now, Jamie is excited to take on a new role with WAHL, where she will be developing educational workshops and online training for barbers and stylists working with the WAHL 1919 styling and finishing line. “We were at ISSE and we were all stuck there for some reason, nobody was flying in or out of LA, and I was in line next to WAHL Professional’s U.S. Director of Education, Lisa Finucane. We got to talking and saying how much we want to collaborate, and then next thing I know back in Chicago she’s coming into the shop to get her hair done with one of my other stylists,” laughs Jamie. The more Jamie learned about what Lisa was doing with the WAHL Education and Artistic Team (W.E.A.T.), and after teaming up to shoot together for NAHA, she was even more determined to work with the WAHL team on a bigger project. Now, that project has landed in her lap and she could not be more excited to get started. Working primarily on the WAHL 1919 styling and finishing line, Jamie will be creating a range of learning tools for hair professionals. “I’m so excited that WAHL launched this styling and finishing line. I trust the brand, I’ve used WAHL clippers my whole career, and I know that everything I’ve purchased has made my haircuts better. So, I knew if they launched a styling and finishing line, I would feel the same way about it, and I’m excited to share what this line can do for businesses, not just as a styling tool, but as a business tool. There are only two ways to generate income in the shop: through services or through retail, so being able to offer a quality styling and finishing line in your shop that you are knowledgeable about will be a huge asset to your business and I’m excited to help other barbers and stylists understand that.” The WAHL 1919 styling and finishing line consists of 11 products that include hair care, hair styling, beard care and skin care that barbers and stylists can use and sell to improve the level of style and service they offer their clients while increasing their own revenue. The WAHL 1919 styling and finishing line, created in collaboration with industry-leading WEAT members, delivers key benefits barbers and stylists want:
I’M SO EXCITED THAT WAHL LAUNCHED THIS STYLING AND FINISHING LINE. I TRUST THE BRAND, I’VE USED WAHL CLIPPERS MY WHOLE CAREER.” expertly developed and formulated products with no parabens or sulfates, packaged in tubes, not pucks to maintain product quality in a safe, hygienic way – particularly important right now during Covid19 – while delivering performance from the first to last use. Barbers and stylists interested in offering the WAHL 1919 styling and finishing line in their shops can apply at https://wahlpro.com/store/reseller/. What makes the WAHL 1919 styling and finishing line even more exciting is that a portion of the purchase is put towards developing the WAHL Fade It Forward™ program, which helps underprivileged aspiring barbers and stylists go to barber school. As Jamie says, it’s a triple win: hair professionals win because they get a great styling and finishing
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line to retail, the community wins because when you purchase the products, you are also giving back, and the clients win because they gain an understanding of a range of styling products that will help them recreate shop looks at home. “I just feel really good about the whole initiative. I think this is a styling and finishing line and a way to give back to the community that barbers and stylists can both get behind. I’m excited to create education for them that allows them to not only understand the product, but to help them explain these steps to the client and close the sale. It’s about helping them understand that this could be a great addition to their business. Especially now, when stylists are looking for ways to generate lost income. Even for me, we’ve only been open a few weeks and the support from clients has been amazing. They want to buy retail from us because they want to support us. I’m also very transparent with clients about how buying retail from us helps the business, so it’s been great to see them support us.” “It is all about little changes and ideas that barbers and stylists can use to improve their client relationships and retail sales. Are you in fact doing a disservice to your client if you don’t explain to them how the product you used will help them recreate their look at home? Could you put up a shelf in your reception or waiting area so clients can see the collection?” “It’s all about empowering barbers and stylists, that’s what this partnership with WAHL is all about and I’m so excited to get started!”
ELLIOTT CHESTER The Retail Expert.
THESE ARE CHALLENGING TIMES, THERE IS NO DENYING, BUT DESPITE REDUCED CAPACITY AND SERVICES, SOME BARBERSHOPS ARE STILL MANAGING TO THRIVE, AND THE REASON IS RETAIL. In one of many engaging and inspiring #evolive interviews, Layrite Band of Barbers Member and shop owner Elliott Chester shared the importance of investing time and money into retail, especially in the current climate. Like so many in the USA and beyond who have been lucky enough to reopen their doors, Elliott is ensuring clients and staff wear face coverings, has created plenty of space between the stations and is limiting the services on offer in order to keep his team and his clients safe and prevent the spread of the virus. As we know, this means that, inevitably, you are going to be earning less than you normally would from services. Not only are you cutting less clients per day, but shaves or beard trims are, at least for now, not an option. So, what can you do? “For us, retail is part of the culture that we have created and something that I have instilled in my business from the beginning. I have a 10ft square space in my barbershop that pays all my bills, and it is not filled with chairs, it’s filled with retail. Your clients are going to buy their hair products somewhere, so why shouldn’t it be from you,” says Elliott. “The biggest barrier, I think, is that when people open up their business, there’s zero thought for retail. They don’t consider how or why or when to introduce it without feeling like they are forcing clients to purchase from you, but your clients should want to support you, they should want to buy from you.”
Whether it is something that has always played a role in your business or you are looking to introduce it, retail is going to play a larger role post-lockdown. There are things you can do to raise your retail profile too, like making your products available to buy online or to click and collect. “I just talked to my website developer about creating an e-commerce site so we can offer all of our products, everything in the barbershop, online. It’s about making it easier for the client,” he explains. “Let’s say you go to the barbershop and when you leave, you realise you need shampoo or pomade or whatever it is. Now, rather than having to make a return trip, you can go onto our website and buy the same product for the exact same price, or purchase online and collect it from the store at a time that is convenient. There is such a willingness from customers now to purchase online, so having an e-commerce presence is going to be essential.” The advantage to this is that it keeps you engaged with your customers. We have such strong ties and relationships with our customers, there is a tendency to neglect that space between appointments. So, what should that space look like? Is it a friendly text message to remind them about their upcoming appointment, letting them know about special product offers? As long as you are keeping your business in the mind of your customer, you are garnering support.
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There is an opportunity post-lockdown for barbershops to set themselves apart by using good products, having a strong retail programme and really educating clients on how they should be taking care of their hair. Educate your clients on the products you are using during the service and have those same products available for them to buy. “I don’t want my barbers to be sales people, I want them to be educators. I want them to educate their clients on how to recreate the barbershop look at home. Having products that you stand behind and that you can talk passionately about is so important, and by offering that knowledge to your customers, you’re elevating that level of customer service. “There are so many barbers out there, and when you think nowadays about what a barber is, especially with social media, a lot of the time it’s a ‘look at me,’ attitude. You’re a customer, you walk into a barbershop and the barber has been to great schools, he’s traveled all over the world to educate and done all these great hair shows, he’s a rock star. He takes a picture of your haircut, and when he does that, it’s about him, but what about the customer? Yeah, he gets to have a great haircut, but the experience was about you, not your customer. We need to put the focus back on the customer and what you can do for them. What are you doing to make that experience special for your client? Are you getting him into some other services that are beneficial to him and his skin type, are you educating and encouraging him to use the right products for his beard, for his scalp, for his skin? If you can teach your client to prolong the health of his hair and his skin, he is going to be a customer for years to come – it all ties in to retail.” Clients come to you for advice, so when you explain why you believe in the products you stock and you tell them how it will help them, you are doing them a service. Yes, you will earn extra
I HAVE A 10 SQ. FT SPACE IN MY BARBERSHOP THAT PAYS ALL MY BILLS, AND IT IS NOT FILLED WITH CHAIRS, IT’S FILLED WITH RETAIL. YOUR CLIENTS ARE GOING TO BUY THEIR HAIR PRODUCTS SOMEWHERE, SO WHY SHOULDN’T IT BE FROM YOU?” 87
revenue if they purchase those products from you, but you will also earn your clients’ trust, and that is far more valuable. Do you want to simply be the guy who cuts their hair, or do you want to be their trusted advisor? If they consider you the latter, they will continue to come to you if and when a problem arises, and you can be there to explain the problem and find the right product to help. “When you see your customer, ask them how their hair is, how their beard is, what their skin has been like. I want to know what’s going on so that I can help them aesthetically. As barbers, we should be well versed in good skin health and we should align ourselves with quality products that allow us to take care of the needs of our skin. For me, for example, I’m a big believer in Layrite because the manufacturers stand behind their product, they stand behind the barber industry and I have cultivated personal relationships with them. It’s important for me that the companies I’ve aligned my brands with are ones that really care,” says Elliott. While the re-opening of Elliott & Co has been a major focus for Elliott, behind the scenes he is working on something equally exciting. Though an official opening date is yet to be announced, Elliott’s second shop, The Garrison, is set to be one of a kind, combining a high-end barbershop with a boutique shopping experience in a space that he hopes will become a tourist destination, located between downtown Las Vegas and the Strip. The Garrison is designed to be not only aesthetically pleasing, but functional. It is the kind of space that people will gravitate to, offering a unique, creative experience that will set it apart. “I want it to be the kind of place that people from other towns see online and say ‘I have to go there when I’m in Vegas’, we want it to be a global destination for men,” explains Elliott. “We want the retail to be front and center, so in the middle of the barbershop there is a bar with a very unique shape to it and on the shelves, rather than your different liquor bottles on display, it is going to be all of our retail products, all lit up like a high-end bar.” To access those products, there will be a tall, library-style ladder that staff will use to pull products for the client, so that the whole purchasing process feels like an experience that is exclusive and unusual. It’s not just a premium barbershop experience, it’s a premium shopping experience as well. The whole space has been carefully designed and thought out, and encourages customers to walk around and take everything in, from the hair products, to the shaving station, to cool and exciting gifts for men. “I want to create a shift in perspective of what a barbershop is,” says Elliott. “You could go to a beauty salon and be charged double or even triple what you might pay in the average barbershop for a men’s haircut. Why? Because salons are seen to be exclusive, high-end, quality places – so, when we have the same skills and provide the same service, why are we expected to charge less? It’s a problem with perception. If we create an experience for our clients that feels high-end and is rooted in great customer service, with a quality retail line that you believe in, if you run your barbershop like a business, you will create a long-lasting career for you and your team.”
BONA FIDE STORE & BARBERSHOP IT IS A COMMON STORY – YOU OPEN A BARBERSHOP, YOU BUILD UP YOUR BUSINESS, AND YOU CONSIDER DEVELOPING YOUR OWN LINE OF PRODUCTS TO RETAIL. AT BONA FIDE, THE OPPOSITE IS TRUE. FOUNDER LUIS MORENO TELLS US MORE... Launched as a pomade company and brand back in 2012, the creation of Bona Fide came at an important time in Luis’ life. He was fresh out of University and, like many people his age, he had no idea what he was going to do with his life. “My focus at the time was in the educational field, but I was always in and around barbershops and I was really interested in hair products. One day, I was watching O Brother Where Art Thou and one of the characters used the phrase ‘bona fide’. I thought to myself – if I ever started a pomade
company, that’s what I’d call it. So, I did,” says Luis. Looking back at the original branding of the products, you can tell Luis was clearly influenced by hair product labels of the ‘50s and ‘60s. In fact, initially, he didn’t have the budget to pay a graphic designer, so he had to learn to use Adobe Illustrator and design his own labels. Today, Luis still designs the majority of Bona Fide’s artwork and over the years, his tastes and skills have changed and improved, creating the branding people know and love today. u
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At its heart, Bona Fide is a family-owned business. Luis’ sister, Gabina, is his business partner and chances are, if you have bought something from Bona Fide, you have spoken to one of the siblings. “I always boast that I have the best staff in the world. None of my people, including myself, had any work experience in the hair industry before working for Bona Fide Pomade Inc., and in spite of that, our customer service and brand recognition is up there with some of the bigger names in the industry. I take pride in that.” Once they had built a solid foundation as a recognized and trusted brand, opening a Bona Fide barbershop felt like the next natural step in expanding their business and brand. Luis was keen to find a venue that could reinforce the evolution of the brand’s look and feel, something that would tie it all together and allow for workshops and engaging with the local community. “We got serious about creating The Bona Fide Store & Barbershop back in mid-2018. We were fortunate in that the second space that we looked at is the one we have now. We truly started from scratch on this project,” says Luis.
A BARBERSHOP OWNER THAT DOESN’T MAXIMIZE THEIR RETAIL SPACE IS MISSING OUT ON A LOT OF EXTRA INCOME. THERE ARE ONLY SO MANY HOURS IN THE DAY AND THERE’S ONLY SO MUCH HAIR YOU CAN CUT. OUR SPACE IS A STORE FIRST AND A BARBERSHOP SECOND.”
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“The building was built in 1946 and is a Quonzet hut structure with curved ceilings. The barber chairs came before we got the keys to the space. They were 50s/60s Koken Premiers and Presidents, which I had fully restored in a yellow and grey motif. I wanted to create a space with a more modern 1960s feel something subtle and not too over the top, but in good taste.” The building in itself is unique, with its high curved ceilings and large, open space. There is a clear wood, steel and concrete theme within the shop, with an l-beam and concrete staircase that leads to a private barber studio and Luis’ personal office. The entire space feels clean, calm, cool and uncluttered – the perfect environment for a relaxing haircut, beard trim or shave. The shop first opened its doors to the public in October of 2019 and it has gone through some changes in that short period of time, but when Luis looks at the space, he feels that he has created something very unique, bringing a retail experience together with the barbershop experience. “A barbershop owner that doesn’t maximize their retail space is missing out on a lot of extra income. There are only so many hours in the day and there’s only so much hair you can cut. Our space is a store first and a barbershop second, it just so happens that our barbershop and our barbers are pretty damn good as well,” says Luis. Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, The Bona Fide Store & Barbershop was closed for almost four months, with Bona Fide Pomade closed for one month while employees were furloughed, with Luis and Gabina staggering their days to fulfill any orders that came in. It was a difficult time for the business, and for the industry as a whole, but Luis and his team have bounced back and are putting even more emphasis on retail sales since their return. “It was already our focus before the pandemic to build a better retail consumer base in the Store and on our online web shop. The saving grace for us during the pandemic was the strong support we received and continue to receive from our retail clients. So, we’ve been working hard to create and develop a strong loyalty program for them.” At Bona Fide, they are taking the pandemic very seriously, doing everything in their power to create a clean, hygienic and safe environment for everyone. No one is allowed in the shop without a face mask, including the barbers, seats and stations are sanitized between clients and Bona Fide Hand Sanitizer is available for clients on both entry and exit. For now, hot towel shaves are still off the table, and the drinks service is suspended, but at the end of the day, it beats being closed, and clients appreciate these added measures as a way of ensuring the Bona Fide Store & Barbershop remains a coronavirus-free zone. Unfortunately, in mid-July, it was announced that many counties in California would be closing barbershops once again, meaning Bona Fide had to close its doors after a brief reopening. While the barbershop remains closed, the Pomade store remains open for clients to purchase products or arrange curb-side pick-up. “Our customers, friends and family have been very supportive, they know that our industry is hurting badly right now. I am fortunate to have Bona Fide Pomade bringing income in, but my heart goes out to all my friends in California that own shops whose only source of income is being behind the chair.” With so much uncertainty ahead, Luis’ biggest focus right now is staying healthy and getting his business through this pandemic: “We are all just doing our best in the worst time. When I get stressed out, I think to myself I’m alive, my family is healthy, my people are employed and healthy. Everything that comes after that is a bonus.” •
KURTIS “THE STACHE” LAWRENCE
From Barbershop to Businessmen. CREATING A SUCCESSFUL BARBERSHOP IS A TASK IN ITSELF, BUT TO BE ABLE TO BUILD A GLOBAL BRAND IS ANOTHER FEAT ENTIRELY. AT REUZEL, THEY HAVE MANAGED TO DO BOTH. IT TOOK TWO MEN A LOT OF DETERMINATION, BUT IT GOES TO SHOW THAT RETAIL IS NOT TO BE DISMISSED. Our story starts in an alley of all places, with two men in love with barbering and sharing a passion for style, rock ‘n roll, kustom culture and the working-class ethic of Rotterdam. Leen and Bertus wanted to cut every man the perfect hairstyle and to provide a haven – a barbershop. A place where men could trust the products and enjoy the company. With a focus on classic styles and hot-towel shaves, they built a space that reflected who they were and epitomised their passion and their values.
REUZEL.
Their barbershop, Schorem, is an old school men-only barbershop in the heart of Rotterdam, specializing, as they always hoped, in classic cuts that have proven themselves over the decades: pompadours, flattops, contours and more. Schorem is a type of word play that in Dutch means ‘scumbags’ or ‘bad boys’, but it is also past tense for ‘I shave him’, so an apt choice for their barbershop! Since it first opened its doors, the barbershop has been frequented by greasers, rockers, bikers, ruffians and other fine ‘gentlemen scumbags’ from every echelon of society. With more than 50 years of barbering experience between them, the duo decided to formulate their own pomades worthy of their exacting standards. As old school barbers, they dug deep into the history of pomades to create what they believe are the world’s finest and thus, Reuzel was born. The Dutch word for lard, Reuzel is a nod to the past, when pomades were made from animal fats and fragranced with apples. Today, it is a globally recognised brand, selling to barbershops and barbers worldwide. What originally began as a range of classic pomades has branched out into a whole host of popular products including aftershave, shave cream, beard balms, styling products and shampoos – not to mention an academy and a host of brand ambassadors. Despite their growth, their philosophy remains the same: “We aren’t just barbers. We’re scumbags, but we’re decent scumbags bent on saving the world one man at a time.”
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All of us here at BarberEVO were deeply saddened to hear of the passing of Kurtis “The Stache” Lawrence on July 17. As Education Coordinator, he was an integral part of the Reuzel family and widely respected within the global barbering community. Reuzel co-founder Laurence Hegarty said in a touching post: “While Kurtis had other roles prior to Reuzel, working for Pivot Point and Tigi, he often said that Reuzel was where he was meant to be. Reuzel was his home, and we were his family. Kurtis, while not the tallest in the room, was a giant among men. He had a kind heart, always had a smile, was always the social butterfly, and would go out of his way to help you in any way he could.” Kurtis touched many lives during his career, and the outpouring of love from the barber community since the announcement of his passing is a testament to the kind of man he was. “When I heard the news yesterday, I was devastated. Kurt was truly one of the most kind, thoughtful, inspiring humans I’ve met. I’m so grateful to have had the opportunity to have him touch my life and know that everyone who knew him felt the same,” said Whitney VerMeer. Matty Conrad also shared a tribute to Kurtis, saying: “We lost a legend this week. For the last few years, I have spent more time on the road than I have at home. In that time, I have developed a bit of a ‘road family’, you need to, to keep sane. Kurtis was a brother. He was one of the most loyal friends I’ve met. He was never swayed by fickle opinions or popularity. He was as solid a friend as you could ever wish for.” Our deepest sympathies go out to Kurtis’ family, friends and treasured colleagues. Rest in peace, Kurtis.
Image// Kevin Luchmun.
July 10, 1968 - July 17, 2020.
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FEWER GUESTS DOESN’T MEAN LESS MONEY IN THE BARBERING WORLD, WE ALWAYS WONDER WHY WE ARE SEVERAL STEPS BEHIND THE COSMETOLOGIST. YES, I SAID IT. WHEN IT COMES TO BUSINESS, AS A WHOLE, BARBERS < COSMETOLOGIST. There are many reasons, but for this column, I am going to focus on retail. Many barbershops sell less than the price of a haircut per week in products, some barbershops sell under $1,000 per week, and very few barbershops hit that $1,000+ in product sales. In laymen’s terms, $1,000 gross is about $450 net. What does that mean? About $23,000 a year. I don’t know about you, but that will put a nice size dent into my rent payments. My question is, why leave free money on the table? Retail was significant before. Now postpandemic and with a limited number of guests walking into your shop, retail has become vital for keeping your doors open. If you were servicing 50 guests per week, you now are at 25-35 guests with a conservative average. That is taking into account the implementation of the new ‘safety’ precautions. Fewer guests mean fewer haircuts, which means less money being made. How do we make up the difference? After all, your bills, expenses, and Yeezy or Jordan money does not get any more affordable. The forbearance and deferment grace periods are pretty much over. The new norm is doing more with less. But if shampoos and conditioners are not your top sellers, you have a huge problem. Luckily, we are here to help. Every guest washes and conditions their hair, but why are your guests going to big retailers for their hair care? Do you go to a restaurant to get your oil changed? Where is the disconnection between the guest trusting you with their hair and not trusting you with their hair care? Aren’t you the expert in all matters of hair? It’s ok, I’ll wait {insert Jeopardy theme music here}. Cosmetologists are known as the experts, and barbers are known as your ‘boy’ with the blurry fades. As a whole, cosmetologists take into account the furniture in the shop. They look for decor that matches the salon’s vibe and, most importantly, the salon’s price point. Barbers are traditionally known for lining up as many chairs as possible on one side of the shop and benches on the other side. The mindset for barbers is to get them in and get them out as quickly as possible, i.e. working harder, not smarter.
I am not here to bash the barber community, like that one page on Instagram. I am here to say we can do better. We can take pride in how our shops look. Which in all honestly, I am witnessing a significant improvement in the industry. We can learn to sell without the snake charm. If you have a 300-client guest book, you should be selling 300 shampoos and 300 conditioners every other month, give or take. That’s not including the styling products and the combs, brushes, or any other tools that the guest can use to accomplish the look you gave them in the shop. If I can say anything about retail, it is that your guests are walking billboards. Many barbers think business cards or social media is the most effective way to promote your services. Although those options are great, they fall very far behind someone coming up to your guest saying, ‘Wow, that’s an amazing haircut, who is your barber/ hairdresser?’. If your guest only looks that good when they leave the shop, you are doing yourself a disservice. Every guest that walks into Lxve Studios leaves with the knowledge on how to style their hair, the best hair care products and styling products from Enter the Alchemy, and the best tools to get their hair to look the way we make it look every day of the month. Retail is our culture, which makes those 25-35 guests seem like 100. Retail is the difference between a barbershop and a barbershop business. Peace, Lxve & Happiness.
RETAIL WAS SIGNIFICANT BEFORE. NOW POSTPANDEMIC AND WITH A LIMITED NUMBER OF GUESTS WALKING INTO YOUR SHOP, RETAIL HAS BECOME VITAL FOR KEEPING YOUR DOORS OPEN. IF YOU WERE SERVICING 50 GUESTS PER WEEK, YOU NOW ARE AT 25-35 GUESTS WITH A CONSERVATIVE AVERAGE.”
IT MAY BE CLICHÉ, BUT IT’S TRUE. IN THE EARLY MONTHS OF 2020, WHO KNEW OUR DARKEST HOURS WERE AROUND THE CORNER WITH ARMS OPEN WIDE, OFFERING UP ALL SORTS OF FEELINGS.
Words// Andy Fischer.
You know, unable to make a living, deprived of seeing your friends and family, watching the economy tank, witnessing a global pandemic, those kinds of fun feelings. But before I talk about all of the glorious downfalls we as a whole have been subjected to this year so far, let’s rewind a bit... Hair has been a part of my life for as long as I can remember. My mother began her hairstyling career in 1978
IT’S ALWAYS DARKEST BEFORE THE DAWN
and opened her own salon in the mid ‘80s. I grew up in her salon sweeping hair, folding towels, and helping other stylists. I always said I was going to be a hairstylist just like my mom, but as a rebellious teenager, that changed. I wanted to be my own person, do my own things, and not follow in anyone else’s footsteps. Despite the rebellion. I couldn’t deny that I was still interested in hair. u
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WITHOUT WORK TO OCCUPY YOUR MIND, YOU ARE FORCED TO SIT THERE WITH YOUR DEMONS, NOT KNOWING WHEN YOU’LL BE BACK DOING WHAT YOU LOVE.”
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Being a tomboy, that’s where my curiosity for men’s cuts and barbering was born. I started experimenting on my friends’ hair, with varying degrees of success, but I always saw it as a hobby. I was fascinated by the classic styles I saw in movies and TV shows like Mad Men, Peaky Blinders and Inglorious Basterds – I loved those heavy pomades and side parts and I was desperate to recreate them. It wasn’t until, after moving to New York City, I stumbled across a barbering school that it all clicked. Within three weeks I was starting my first day at barbering school, acquiring a job in a Brooklyn barbershop not long after I graduated. It was a learning experience, but it made me the barber I am today. It helped me grow and gave me experience working with all kinds of hair. I moved around a lot over those first few years, working in another Brooklyn shop, then moving to Philadelphia and joining the team at Philadelphia Barber Company, where I worked for two years. I really believe that shop is what pushed me to do more with my career. I started building my portfolio and doing YouTube tutorials. It felt good to be a real part of the barbering community. When it started, 2020 looked promising as ever. I had taken the plunge and opened a studio, allowing me to work for myself and truly focus on my passion of creating and styling. I set out in search of the perfect place to represent the way I feel about an industry that’s been restored, and in some ways reinvented, and thus, the Born Free Collective was born. With a single chair, my trusty pup Sonny and a vision, I was ready to take off. I was right in the middle of catching my groove with Born Free. My vision was sharp, my productivity was high, and I felt that I had overcome a lot of emotional tribulations that hindered me in the past. I had finally figured out my formula to personal happiness. I thought, ‘finally, this is what it was all for. This moment right here was worth any struggle I’ve faced in the past’. As someone who’s struggled with anxiety and depression for the last decade or so, this was a huge turning point in my life. I had a reason to get out of bed in the morning, I had something to work towards that shut down the self-doubt and trauma, and validated that I was worthy of excelling in life. The dramatic events in my past felt like they were finally being silenced, and then COVID-19 made its appearance in the US. I remember reading about it, but it never crossed my mind that our whole world would be turned upside down in a matter of weeks. It wasn’t until I saw how Italy was quickly becoming affected that I started to wonder what it looked like for the US. Common sense told me it was only a matter of time before barbershops would have to shut. On Monday March 16th, while I was cutting hair and trying to navigate through my appointment book with as little anxiety as possible, I refreshed the news on my phone every half hour waiting for that announcement. I canceled my remaining clients, sat on my couch in the waiting area and just cried. I knew this was the beginning of a downfall that was completely out of my control. I knew my time during lockdown would be tough. For many of us, barbering gives us a sense of purpose. We wake up in the morning and get to do something creative, and spend our time with those who appreciate it. Waking up to a lockdown didn’t feel like a vacation, it felt like a mental health death sentence. That may sound extreme, but for those
who have already been to hell and back with mental health, it’s a very real statement. Without work to occupy your mind, you are forced to sit with your demons, not knowing when you’ll be back doing what you love. Any issues that were pushed aside by booming business all come to a head because you have no choice but to sit with them and analyze. Not to mention the stress of not earning a living and wondering if you can pay your bills. Every time the lockdown was extended, I kept telling myself, you just have to make it till then, but that end point kept changing. I didn’t know if I would survive financially. I put all of my hardearned savings into Born Free. You can only tell yourself everything is going to be ok for so long, especially when in reality, on the business side, things were not ok. What kept me going was that everyone in our industry was going through the same thing.
We stuck together, we lifted each other up and inspired each other. The ego of being a successful barber has become a bit toxic, and I feel this pandemic has been a reality check. It doesn’t matter how good, successful or experienced a barber is, we are all affected. Maybe our industry needed this. Maybe we all needed something so severe to come and bring us all back together. I know personally, I’ll never take for granted the blessing of having a normal workday, or being in the same room as dozens of barbers, taking a class and learning together. The world and our industry will be weird for a bit, but I hope we can all remember our low points and turn it into motivation to make the most of our days. I hope that we can even appreciate the bad days because at the very least, we get to do what we love and what we’re meant to do. The dawn is definitely coming, but we need to appreciate the darkness in order for it to shine. •
WHAT KEPT ME GOING WAS THAT EVERYONE IN OUR INDUSTRY WAS GOING THROUGH THE SAME THING. WE STUCK TOGETHER, WE LIFT EACH OTHER UP AND INSPIRED EACH OTHER.” 98
Self CARE with AILEEN NUNEZ.
WE CARE SO MUCH ABOUT OTHERS THAT AT TIMES OUR SELF-CARE IS FORGOTTEN. LET’S TALK ABOUT WAYS WE CAN TAKE CARE OF OURSELVES. The first thing we need to do is update our mindset. We need to believe that our wellbeing is important. This means taking the time to do something for yourself every day. You work so hard giving to others, why not celebrate yourself and give yourself a token of appreciation to set the day off right? Think about the things that bring joy to you that not only help you in your present, but in the future.
PHYSICAL HEALTH Nourish your body with fitness and eating well. A great example in our industry is Danny Amorim (@successaddict), he nourishes his body with consistency. I enjoy watching his path on Instagram as he shares with his audience everything from meal prep, aligning your diet to a healthy mindset, to his gym journey showing the importance of self-care. I personally enjoy going for walks first thing in the morning. Walking hits all three categories: physical, mental, and spiritual. According to health professionals, walking promotes stronger bones, improved balance, and flexibility. In addition, increased cardio reduces the risk of heart disease and improved management of blood pressure, cholesterol, etc. Consistency in physical activity helps you in the present and long-term. MENTAL HEALTH Gain knowledge first thing in the morning by feeding your mind with valuable information through a TedTalk or your favorite information platform, choosing a topic that you are interested in learning more about. I started implementing this best practice from Great Clips Inc Director of Education, Sue Aderhold (@sueaderhold). During a meeting, she discussed the benefits of starting off your week with a TedTalk. I love the fact that you receive a dose of knowledge and motivation at the same time. Free knowledge or low-cost education is available to all of us. My favorite places to look for mental stimulation are from YouTube, LinkedIn Learning, or from industry vendors on social media. It is a great time to learn about infection control best practices to be implemented as well. Our industry has always needed to follow sanitation and disinfection guidelines, but it doesn’t hurt to review and learn new best practices that will help yourself and customers feel safe. Take a look at what learning materials are available online.
SPIRITUAL HEALTH Connect with your inner chi. Chi is energy that flows within us and around us. The Law of Attraction is real. If you think positive, positive things will happen. An important aspect that a person can forget when implementing positive vibes is believing that you deserve positive things in your life. You can stop a lot of the unwanted negativity in your life by believing you can break that pattern. In addition, you can influence others by being the example with YOUR energy. Your energy introduces you before you speak. There are things that you can do to exercise a good spirit and positive vibes. To help maintain your good spirit, meditate and implement positive affirmations. Meditation helps reduce stress, increases calm and focus, and aids in the exercise of being present, consistently. We live in a world that wants us to conduct multiple activities at the same time. Take the time to reset a couple times a day to ensure you have the right energy activated. For example, do you have a hard time sitting still or worry often? Sitting in silence in a quiet space by yourself and practicing a quiet mind can help you get in the right mindset for the day. Start off with 20 minutes and progress up to 60 minutes. Affirmations help remind a person how amazing they are or influence who they can become. They encourage us to believe things about ourselves and what we want our world to be like. When you feel negative towards a situation, go towards light and love by thinking positive thoughts that will align you with positive behaviors. Positive behaviors will help you influence achieving whatever goal you have set for the greater good. When you do things for yourself, it makes it easier to do for others because you know how to do it and how it feels. Please remember YOU. You do so much for the industry. Remember to gift yourself time to appreciate your body, mind, and spirit.
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OUR INDUSTRY IS LIKE NO OTHER. THE VIBES FELT ARE LIKE HOW YOU FEEL WITH A SISTER OR BROTHER. I AM SO PROUD OF WHAT WE REPRESENT. PASSIONATE AND PROUD IS HOW WE PRESENT. WE CARE ABOUT HOW PEOPLE FEEL. THE LOVE THAT WE HAVE FOR OUR INDUSTRY IS SO REAL. UNITED WE STAND IN THIS WORLD THAT WE LIVE. OUR TRANSLATION FOR THE BEAUTY WE SEE IS WHAT WE GIVE.” This poem that I wrote for the industry explains the care that we share for others. We know what it takes so why not apply these best practices to ourselves. We care so much about others that at times our self-care is forgotten. Let’s talk about ways we can take care of ourselves, the industry professional. The first thing we need to do is update our mindset, how we think and feel about things in general.
g s n e i t c a a e p r C FE S A S AT CA MER A R EA DY K UTZ , THE MOST IMPORTA NT THING FOR OW N ER K H A IS TH AT EV E NE RYON E F EEL S SA F E A N D W ELCOME, R EGA R DLES S OF R ACE, GEN DER OR SEX UA L OR IE NTATION.
CAMERA READY KUTZ, IN A BARBERSHOP C. IS GEARED TOWARDS BUT N OT TO THE LGBTQIA+ EXCLUSIVE COMMUNIT Y
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Over the ye ars, K hane has built a LGBTQI A+ co hub for the mmunity, th local ey tell us w important to hy it was them... W hile I was store manag er for a maj company, I or coffee began hear ing stor ies in the LGBT from my fr ie QI A+ comm nds unity about treatment at their horr ib barbershop le s. They wer serv ice, talk e being refu ed about w sed hi le in the chair, receiv ing th not e cut they as ke d for, being su to homopho bjected bic hate spee ch and just the environm feeling that ent did not welcome th One day, I ju em. st decided to look up barb to see if I co er schools uld attend any while m job. I gradua aintaining ted Novembe my r of 2007 an cutting ever d Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been since. I star te d out just w help out my anting to fr iends but word star te like w ildfire. d spreading I love busine ss so I was I marketed in the gam myself ever e, ywhere.
I GOT THE TERM ‘BRAVE SPACE’ FROM A YOUNG LADY WHO SHARED A POEM WITH ME ONE DAY ABOUT HOW IT’S REALLY IMPOSSIBLE TO MAKE A SPACE ‘SAFE’ DUE TO THE DIFFERENT TRIGGERS PEOPLE HAVE. THAT POEM REALLY RESONATED WITH ME BECAUSE I HAD BEEN THINKING THE SAME IN REGARDS TO THE SHOP.
I was, and still am, very outspoken about my views on the barbershop environment, owner responsibility and barber accountability. I want to change the barber industry. I tell people all the time: we are in the service business. If you go to a coffee shop and ask for a latte, they can’t give you a black coffee because that’s what they feel you should drink. Lots of NYC cab drivers used to refuse to take people to certain neighborhoods – they can’t do that anymore. Why are barbers still allowed to get away with doing much the same? Who I sleep with has absolutely nothing to do with you doing my fade – the service that I’m paying you to do. Camera Ready Kutz, Inc. is a barbershop geared towards but not exclusive to the LGBTQIA+ community. We provide a Brave Space where people of all sexual orientations and gender expressions can comfortably get groomed without worrying about being refused service, having to hear derogatory comments or feel as though they have to act in an ‘acceptable’ manner for the sake of personal safety. I got the term ‘Brave Space’ from a young lady who shared a poem with me one day about how it’s really impossible to make a space ‘safe’ due to the different triggers people have. That poem really resonated with me because I had been thinking the same in regards to the shop. There have been times when clients felt triggered by things out of our control or that we really shouldn’t have to be responsible for. So, yes... we are a safe space for people in regards to being respected and not being refused service, but we are more over a space where people can be their full selves, gain confidence, speak freely, experiment with themselves, grow, tackle their fears... be BRAVE. Being a full card-carrying member of the LGBTQIA+ community, people naturally gravitated towards me, and all advertising and marketing clearly stated the shop was an LGBT Safe Space. I participated in events and made sure to constantly talk about my goals for my shop, my passion and to make sure people felt comfortable. There is more to it than saying you’re going to do something though; you also have to walk the talk. When people come in, they are greeted, their haircut choices are not ignored, we ask what pronoun they refer, and let them know they can talk openly about anything. Ultimately, even without the trimmings of a gay flag, rainbow colors or writing this
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is an LGBTQIA+ safe space, the goal is for our actions to speak loudest. Every few months, we raise funds for individuals with various needs such as top surgery, help with rent, business ideas, paying bills, an artistic project, help with kids, all sorts. You can donate at the shop during your appointment or on our website by clicking ‘Donate Today’. We chose to collect for individuals because we want to make a direct difference. We also know that sometimes you just need a break, a hand, a windfall, a little cash to get you over a hump without worrying about paying it back. I came up with the idea after years of trying to figure out how I could best give back to my community. I couldn’t find any organizations I fully trusted and also felt like on my own I would not be able to make a difference on the scale I imagined in my head. Finally, it came to me while I was thinking about people who have helped me, who didn’t know me well but believed in my vision for my business. I may not be able to give on a larger scale myself, but if I enlisted the help of others who knows how much I could give back. So now we collect donations from clients and anyone else who wants to contribute and give it to a specific person or a group of people to help them with the everyday challenges of life. I named it the Morris, Harris, Dacey, Coleman fund to honor the people who helped me. Another thing we do every year is give away 200 backpacks filled with school supplies to kids in shelters around Brooklyn and in our direct area. We do reduced-priced or free cuts for homeless LGBT youths and LGBT adults struggling with their mental health. I believe barber and beauty schools need to add an element to their courses on teaching sensitivity. I refuse to call it tolerance because LGBT folks are not to be ‘tolerated, we are not a bother, we just want to live in the world without having to justify our preferences. Owners of shops should be penalized if they or their barbers discriminate against certain genders or sexual orientations. Barbers, stylists and shop owners need to be willing to be open. Otherwise, the only way to make sure they are inclusive is to make it a mandated standard like other service industries. For those willing to be open, there are several things you can do, from putting up a Safe Sapace sign, adding a Pride flag sticker to their window, mention your inclusivity on your website or social media and then walk the talk. Be inviting, be kind, be respectful, be mindful of people’s differences. That’s all it takes.
Words// Ivan Zoot.
BE A HEALTHY HAIRCUTTER
YOU CAN’T TAKE CARE OF THEM IF YOU DON’T TAKE CARE OF YOU. STAYING HEALTHY, LONG-TERM, BEHIND THE CHAIR REQUIRES A STRATEGY AND APPROACH TO A HAIRCUTTER’S PHYSICAL, MENTAL AND FINANCIAL WELLNESS. Here are my top tips for getting and staying healthy behind the chair.
Specialize – Saying no to work you do not enjoy is both a mental health win and a financial gain. Hone in on things you can rock out on and enjoy. Charge more for things for which you are considered an expert. Generalists are quickly irrelevant within a skilled trade.
Brown bag your lunch – This is both a dietary tip and a finance strategy. You will eat better and spend less when you bring your lunch. You will make better food choices and will slash your day-to-day food costs.
Know your numbers – Daily tracking of the basic statistics of your business keeps you in touch with your progress and on top of your business. To know your numbers is to grow your numbers. That wish gets measured gets improved.
Get loose - Dynamic stretching in the form of warm-up exercises will loosen you up and get you moving comfortably before the day starts. Midmorning and mid-afternoon stretch breaks for static exercises will keep you loose and pain free for years.
Treat your work like a workout – Proper hydration will keep you healthy. Drink plenty of water throughout the day to keep your body hydrated and your mind sharp. The money you will save with a refillable water bottle can level up your retirement plan, too.
Move more – Thirty minutes of cardio exercise at least five times per week will help to manage weight and positively impact any number of wellness metrics from blood pressure to cholesterol. Push yourself – Body weight exercises will help to make you “haircut strong”. Push-ups, squats, burpees and other simple exercises will help you move freely and comfortable. No gym membership or equipment is needed (another money-saver, too).
Raise your haircut price – The fastest and easiest way to earn more is to charge more. The best way to charge more is to do more and give more. Upgrade your client experience to upgrade your entire life. You can do a little bit of good with a little bit of money. Imagine how much good you can do with a lot.
Save more – Start to ramp up your daily and weekly savings efforts. Small money adds up BIG when simple savings strategies like paying yourself first and divvying your tips are implemented.
These are ten basic health and wellness tips that anyone can implement immediately. They carry zero cost and can bring immediate, positive returns to your efforts.
Say NO! - Say no to squeezing haircuts in where they do not fit. Say no to working through lunch. Say NO! to things that will drain your energy.
For help implementing a healthy haircutter lifestyle join Ivan’s online community at patreon.com/ivanzoot.
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