FEMME MAGAZINE
179 NOVEMBER 2015
LONDON FASHION WEEK MEXICAN MODEL JAMILLETTE GAXIOLA AUTUMN PRINTS AND PATTERNS RED ALERT
FM
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179 NOVEMBER 2015
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FM
NOVEMBER 2015
ISSUE 179
10 Capital returns Photography is one of the essential elements that make fashion so vibrant, aspirational and ultimately, accessible. Whether it’s street style or the fashion weeks in Milan, Paris, New York and London, photography takes us there, right in the frow. And it’s from the frow at London Fashion Week that Helena Abela watches the SS/16 trends unfold. London Fashion Week SS/16 moved to a grungy, 1920s car park in Soho where established but also young and upcoming designers showed that London Fashion Week can do both grown-up and adventurous at the same time. Yet photography can also take us to the alleys and backstreets. It is these hidden places that inspire Spanish photographer Jacobo Medrano. In this issue of FM, Medrano says that it is here, in the shadows, that we are really ourselves because nobody is watching us. For this issue, Kira Drury also takes up her camera to capture the last of the summer party vibes. Apart from the beautiful people, Kira also zooms in on what they are wearing. In this issue of FM, Bibiche Rath celebrates this season’s mix and match trend: from patchwork, tweed and tartan to androgynous and 1980s, this season has it all and Bibiche has some fashion fun clashing contrasting styles. Make-up artist and beauty vlogger Dyna gives us some tips about common make-up fails and Romina Farrugia walks the streets of style. Read on and enjoy.
For SS/16, London Fashion Week came across as all grown up. But that didn’t stop it from pushing the boundaries, Helena Abela says.
17 Swing this swinter I know what you wore last summer, Helena Abela says. So pair it with winter staples to create the swinter look.
20 Lady of the ring Mexican model Jamillette Gaxiola is a bit wild, even outside the UFC ring.
24 Style stalker
cover credits Photography Kris Micallef www.krismicallef.com Styling Kira Drury Hair Oriana at 1866 The New Age Hair Shop, 21371863 Make-up Kida at Roseberry Model Chanelle at ModelsM, wearing Debenhams Nighty, €36.00 Accessorize Multi Chain Necklace, €19.90 Accessorize Headband, €7.90
It’s party time as Kira Drury flashes the last of the summer vibes.
26 Printed matter Find the pattern in this season’s trends. Clue: it’s prints.
Editor Anthony P. Bernard Email: anthony@fmlifestyle.com
29 Street style
Consulting Editor Stanley Borg Email: stanley@fmlifestyle.com
Romina Farrugia brightens up the autumn streets.
32 Hide and he seeks Jacobo Medrano zooms in on the urban backstreets and alleys in search of hidden humanity.
Design & Art Direction Roderick Peresso Design Studio www.peresso.com / m. 9925 8825 Printing Print It
34 The scarlet letter It’s red alert this season as the bold colour returns.
36 The clash It’s the season to be quirky. Bibiche Rath has some mix and match fun.
39 Face your make-up fears Dyna brushes up on some common make-up issues.
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43 Chill with a thrill FM turns winter cold into fashion gold.
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56 The final touch Complete your look with this season’s shoes, bags and accessories.
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FASHION WEEK
Capital returns For SS/16, London Fashion Week came across as all grown up. But that didn’t stop it from pushing the boundaries, Helena Abela says.
ALEXANDER LEWIS, PRESENTATION PHOTO: KENSINGTON LEVERNE, BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL
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MOLLY GODDARD PHOTO: SHAUN JAMES COX, BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL
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f the four fashion capitals – New York, London, Milan and Paris – had to be described as a nuclear family, then London would be the youngest of the offspring. It’s the experimental and sometimes rebellious teen who demands attention and likes to do things to get a reaction. For its 62nd edition, London Fashion Week was the young adult taking risks and growing in confidence as it moved its premises away from the safe and conventional choice of the capital’s landmarks to a location that is both controversial but also representative of what British fashion has become. London Fashion Week SS/16 was held in a more central area of West London, in a grungy, 1920s (queue drum roll) car park in Soho. At the news, fashion editors sighed with relief as their Manolo Blahnik-clad feet would be spared the perils of the cobbled pathways that surround London Fashion Week’s past locations. Yet the rest of the fashion brigade had a hesitant reaction. As 5,000 buyers, journalists, bloggers and photographers descended on Soho to witness 52 catwalk shows and 26 presentations, British Fashion Council chief executive Caroline Rush reassured the fashion set that the new venue had been jet-washed for about a week and ready to accommodate the SS/16 collections. As I made my way through the all too familiar streets of Soho on a crisp Friday morning, the buildings seemed different in the sober light of day. Known predominantly for its notorious gay bars and seedy sex shops, Soho seems to have gone on a detox in recent years and transformed the capital’s epicentre into a creative hub for entertainment and fashion alike.
ZANDRA RHODES PHOTO: SHAUN JAMES COX, BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL
KEEW NOIHSAF
DAKS PHOTO: KENSINGTON LEVERNE, BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL
ANTONIO BERARDI PHOTO: SHAUN JAMES COX, BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL
Just a stone’s throw away from London’s infamous Oxford Street and neighbouring department stores such as Liberty and Selfridges and also closely located to publishing houses of fashion magazines Elle, Vogue and Grazia, Soho’s network of interlocking streets buzzed with energy and style in what used to be London’s red light district. As Soho geared-up for a new exciting edition of fashion week, its participating designers also embraced this season’s new location and commemorated this transition by offering a host of exciting new trends for SS/16. Minimalism, androgyny and pastels dominated last summer’s shop windows but as I took my seat, after a slight tumble down the car park ramp, along with dubious fashion editors, celebrities, and buyers seated on the frow, a whole new range unravelled before our eyes, offering an exciting new perspective for next season. Once recognised as London’s ones-to-watch, the youngest of the fashion capitals is known for its support of young and emerging talent. The freshfaced designers of seasons ago have grown up into coveted regulars on the Fashion Week schedule. Mary Katrantzou and Jonathan Saunders, known predominantly for their print designs, have this season stepped it up a notch, developing their use of print using different textures and fabrics. Other British favourites such as Christopher Kane produced a throwback to the 1980s with a collection of acid colours while accessory designer Anya Hindmarch took inspiration from familiar high-street logos such as John Lewis, Natwest and Boots and incorporated them into her designs, transforming the mundane into a kaleidoscope catwalk.
ANTONIO BERARDI PHOTO: SHAUN JAMES COX, BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL
FM Issue 179 - 11
FASHION WEEK
BELSTAFF PHOTO: KENSINGTON LEVERNE, BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL
“The fresh-faced designers of seasons ago have grown up into coveted regulars on the Fashion Week schedule.”
HOUSE OF HOLLAND PHOTO: SAM WILSON, BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL
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HOUSE OF HOLLAND PHOTO: SAM WILSON, BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL
The star-studded Burberry show never disappoints. Although catwalk queen Cara Delevingne hung-up her fashion crown, she found time in her busy filming schedule to attend the Burberry show with girlfriend St. Vincent. She was joined by a host of celebrities such as Kate Moss, Benedict Cumberbatch and Sienna Miller. As the orchestra played Alison Moyet’s Only You, I could feel a sense of respite in the room as the fash-pack escaped the hustle and bustle of Soho. For SS/16 Burberry contrasted dark hues with military detailing in gold braid adorning tailored jackets paired lace dresses. This detailing came about when Christopher Bailey worked closely with Hand & Lock, a company that produces accessories for the Queen’s ceremonial dressing and horse guard. Bailey has always been an advocate of heritage and British manufacturing so this seemed like an appropriate touch considering the Queen only recently broke the record for being the longest standing monarch. Another crowd puller and major trendsetter for the high street is the Topshop Unique show. Like Burberry, creative director Kate Phelan also drew inspiration from British culture as this season the Topshop girl has grown up into a garden party-goer who seems to be wearing accessories, furs, cardigans and jewellery from her mother’s wardrobe, creating an effortlessly chic style. The models wore British classics such as trench coats off the shoulder with bow detailing and nude leather trousers with sheer pleated blouses worn with cricket jumpers. Outside, the street style offering was inspiring as always, but in true London-style show-goers also pushed the boundaries. As top editors, socialites, buyers and their assistants made their way from show to show
FASHION WEEK
HOLLY FULTON PHOTO: KENSINGTON LEVERNE, BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL
they were often stopped in their tracks for a quick snap by press and bloggers. As I looked on, secretly hoping that I too would get noticed when striding past the cameras, I saw how even though it was raining and the first signs of autumn were upon us, the fashionistas seemed to take transseasonal dressing in their stride while flawlessly mixing classic tailoring with trainers for an urban look. One of the most talked about looks was the back to front shirt – as bizarre as this may sound, rest assured it will be trending on Instagram by next spring. As five days of fashion-packed shows came to an end, it was invigorating to see such a change in direction from past seasons. From acid tones seen at Christopher Kane and Burberry’s dramatic capes to waterfall ruffles at Erdem and pop art prints by JW Anderson, each show was captivating. As Fashion Week visitors depart for Milan and Paris, the Soho car park on Berwick Street returns to its day job and awaits another season of trends, celebrities and selfie posing. FM
BFC DESIGNER SHOWROOMS PHOTO: AGNESE SANVITO, BRITISH FASHION COUNICL
A modern revival The season is in retrograde once more as the 1970s obsession continues its reign. The difference with this revival is a clean, contemporary take on the aesthetic, adjusted to the lifestyle of the modern woman who will wear it. Drawing inspiration from a kaleidoscope of influences, blending artisan craft with naval inspiration and Nordic detail, the Warehouse AW/15 collection creates a statement uniform for the urban folk heroine. Warehouse is available exclusively at Debenhams, The Point Shopping Mall, Tigne.
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WARDROBE
Swing this swinter I know what you wore last summer, Helena Abela says. So pair it with winter staples to create the swinter look.
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s the weather starts its transition into the cooler months, you enthusiastically throw open your wardrobe doors to pull together an ensemble that is effortlessly stylish and perfect for that thin brown line between summer and winter. But as the doors swing open a pile of sarongs fall out, crumpled beach dresses hang unloved and the remainder of last summer’s wardrobe essentials don’t seem, well, essential any more. For some it’s not easy to cope with the end of summer both psychologically and fashionably and it’s for this very reason that the swinter wardrobe, the new seasonal crossover between summer and winter, has been created. As we tirelessly try to put together an outfit that withstands four seasons in one day, our primal instinct is that of the hunter-gatherer – the result is an inevitable shopping spree. As tempting as all the shop windows seem at this time of year, it’s imperative to recall last year’s purchases that resulted in a wardrobe full of knitwear, yet another pair of black boots to add to the other 20 that you already own, and maxed out credit cards that leave you feeling guiltier than Victoria Beckham after tucking into a double cheese burger. In order to avoid this seasonal mishap it’s time to muster up the courage and face the contents of your wardrobe head on. You will be surprised what you will find stored away among the large supply of home clothes and pyjamas that you saved from last year’s clear out. For swinter inspiration, the northern hemisphere is the best place to start. The Brits, Scandinavians and Germans are all pros of the summer meets winter look. The answer does not need to be as drastic as wearing socks and sandals or sheepskin Birkenstocks but is as simple as layering. This is the perfect solution when incorporating summer clothing such as waistcoats, dungarees and lightweight bomber jackets with your winter basics. This season’s autumn/winter collections see pastels and white becoming a staple trend throughout the season. Be it a nod to colour or a full head to toe white suit – cue Amal Clooney – it’s refreshing to see colour in a predominantly dark season. Mix with black, navy and burgundy and you can incorporate your summer pastel shirts and skirts that would have otherwise been locked away till spring.
pastels are an autumn staple
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FM Issue 179 - 17
EBORDRAW
take cue from amal clooney for an allwhite look
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1-5. MARC CAIN | 6. MARC CAIN | 7. JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN REVERSIBLE WRAP WITH OPENING | 8. JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN CASHMERE
“For swinter inspiration, the northern hemisphere is the best place to start.” Culottes and mid-length skirts worn throughout summer are the perfect trans-seasonal piece, especially if you’re not ready to bid farewell to your tanned legs. Team up with a polo neck and trainers and you’re good to go. This season also sees the return of wide legged trousers, knitted tank tops and denim skirts. So dig deep into your wardrobe among the pile of clothes that you have hung on to for the past decade. Once you have established which pieces you can keep, it’s time for the wardrobe swap over. Out come the mothball infused coats, woollies and onesies to determine what stays and what goes before hitting the shops. Once laid out you will be surprised to see that you had forgotten about 70 per cent of last year’s purchases, not to mention clothes that you haven’t worn in years. If by now they are not back in fashion then it’s time for a wardrobe intervention. Follow the mantra: if you have not used an item for two consecutive seasons then get rid of it. Likewise if clothing starts to look fatigued or no longer fits then it’s time to bid farewell to that precious moth-eaten cashmere cardigan. Unwanted clothes don’t have to be discarded completely because one girl’s trash is another girl’s treasure. Organise a get together with friends to swap your unwanted clothes. You never know, that butterfly backless top you wore to Axis 12 years ago may find a new home after all. Never hang on to leftovers with the excuse of wearing them around the house or to the gym. If they’re still in good condition try selling them on Ebay or send to a charity shop. On the plus side now that you have dutifully purged your wardrobe of unfashionable clutter, this leaves room to buy next season’s coveted pieces for your newly found swinter wardrobe. FM
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shawls give you layering options
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MODEL
Lady of the ring Mexican model Jamillette Gaxiola is a bit wild, even outside the UFC ring.
Tell us a bit about yourself. I was born in Mexico and come from a large Latino family – my father is Mexican and my mother, a model and fashion designer, is Cuban-Lebanese. Then when I was 12, my family migrated to the US. I’ve been modelling for as long as I can remember. I was crowned Miss Cuba at 18 and spent some years in the pageant world. I was then chosen to be a cast member of a reality television show called The Shores. Since then I’ve been working in the high fashion world and as a UFC Octagon Girl.
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LEDOM
What is it like working as a UFC Octagon Girl? It has been an amazing experience, especially transitioning from high fashion runways to being inside the ring with the best fighters in the world. I have learned so much and have a complete appreciation for the sport. Also I have the best seat in the house. What is the wildest experience you’ve had while living in Las Vegas? My all time wildest moment happened at a restaurant in Las Vegas. As we were exiting the restaurant, a young woman ran across the entrance with security chasing her. As we looked to see what had happened, I realised that she had thought that the potter in front of the restaurant was a woman’s toilet. On your next vacation, are you lying on a beach somewhere or seeking some adrenaline pumping excursions? I’m doing both. I love the thrill of anything outdoors and physical, and a perfect wind down from that is getting a little sun after a thrilling day. Have you or would you ever ask a guy out? No – I’m old school. What’s the funniest pick-up line that has been used on you? One of my favorites and probably the corniest was, “Is your daddy a baker? Because you’ve got a nice set of buns.”
FM Issue 179 - 21
MODEL
What does sexy mean to you? He doesn’t have to shout to be heard. He doesn’t have to dress like a Hollywood actor to be noticed. He makes a quiet understatement about himself. He knows he looks good and he does it without fanfare. He has class and his father has to be a baker – I love buns.
PHOTOS: JOHN RUSSO/CORBIS OUTLINE
What is the best piece of advice anyone has ever given you? Don’t look down at your feet when you’re walking. Look up and see the horizon.
STYLING: MARISSA PEDEN WITH JORGE PEREZ REPS
What is the most lavish item you have ever purchased? My dog Pelusa. He’s a rescue dog and very expensive to maintain.
MAKE-UP: JOHN RUSSO BEAUTY WWW.JOHNRUSSOBEAUTY.COM
HAIR: JAYSON MEDINA WITH EXCLUSIVE ARTISTS MANAGEMENT MAKE-UP: ANTHONY MERANTE WITH EXCLUSIVE ARTISTS MANAGEMENT
HANDBAGS: DOMINIE LUXURY COLLECTION WWW.DOMINIELUXURY.COM
What three words best describe you? Loving, sarcastic and weird. FM
A shiny new look Leading high-street fashion retailer Oasis is pleased to announce the reopening of its newly refurbished Sliema store. Located in Tower Road, Oasis’ latest store refurbishment reopened in the contemporary House of Oasis scheme. Some of the new additions to the store refit are a secluded waiting area and a generous fitting room specifically for personal stylist appointments. Oasis is renowned for unique design details, exclusive prints and boutique-like styles. From an in-house design team to bespoke store interiors, Oasis has established an exciting and enriched shopping environment with the customer at the heart of everything Oasis does.
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FM Issue 179 - 23 mandcomalta
STYLE
Style stalker It’s party time as Kira Drury flashes the last of the summer vibes. Photos: Kiwi Photography www.fb.com/kiwimalta
Blank Open Waters, St Julian’s Trending: Tattoos Self-expressing wasn’t just limited to clothing and accessories at Blank. Tattoos were out in all their glory, from storytelling sleeves to delicate girly designs.
Friends of Friends TalVirtu Castle Trending: Eyewear This summer’s it accessory was a killer pair of sunglasses and the kids partying on down at the beautiful castle in Tal-Virtu.
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ELYTS
district The Factory, Paceville Trending: Tees Saying it with a slogan is a cult trend that will never go out of style.
Fat Funk presents Evan Baggs Groove Gardens Trending: Crochet This bohemian trend dominated the catwalk and the dancefloor this season. Hippy, hippy shake!
Colour TV & Little Crush present HNNY Beachaven The return of the 1990s: a crop-party with lots of belly shakin’ and groovin’ by the sea.
FM Issue 179 - 25
FASHION
printed matter Find the pattern in this season’s trends. Clue: it’s prints. 2
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1. BHS HALF SLEEVE TULIP PRINT DRESS, €29.50 | 2. DESIGUAL FRESH & BRIGHT NUBE DRESS, €69.95 | 3. SUITEBLANCO JEANS, €29.99 | 4. OASIS ANNABELLE DRESS, €69 | 5. DESIGUAL MULTICOLOURED SHEER TEOM DRESS, €149.95. | 6. M&CO FEATHER PRINT BLOUSE, €34.50 | 7. BHS JADE BUTTERFLY PRINT DRESS, €49.50 | 8. OASIS STATEMENT TROUSERS, €65 | 9. WAREHOUSE WRAP SLEEVE DRESS, €58 | 10. MAISON SCOTCH PRINTED VISCOSE TOP, €79.95. AVAILABLE FROM JUNCTION, THE PLAZA SHOPPING CENTRE, SLIEMA | 11. ARMANI JEANS WOMEN’S SHIRT, €165 | 12. BURBERRY CLASSIC CHECK SHIRT, €350 | 13. JENNYFER ANKLE BOOTS, €19.99 | 14. ESPRIT SHIRT, €45.99 | 15. ESPRIT TOP, €49.99 | 16. TOMMY HILFIGER WOMEN’S CAPE, €159 | 17. TALLY WEIJL CARDIGAN, €59.99 | 18. ACCESSORIZE SCARF, €25.90 | 19. JENNYFER TOP, €25.99 | 20. WAREHOUSE PLEATED SKIRT, €61 | 21. OASIS CHECK KILT MINI, €54 | 22. BOUX AVENUE DELANEY BALCONETTE BRA, €42 (BACK 30-38, CUP B-DD), THONG, €20 (SIZE 6-16), HIGH WAIST BRIEF, €26 (SIZE 6-14) | 23. BOUX AVENUE ROSE NOIR BRA, €46 (BACK 30-38, CUP A-DD), BRIEF €24 (SIZE 6-18) | 24. M&CO FLORAL PRINTED JERSEY SHIRT, €36.50
FM Issue 179 - 27
FASHION
Blazers are a big statement this autumn. Will you be wearing them? I saw a double-breasted, red blazer with gold buttons by Balmain and hope to find something similar at H&M or Zara. What small bag would you buy now? The Soho disco Gucci bag, the one with the embossed G’s at the front and leather tassel. Which fashion item will make it to your wardrobe this month? A studded black mini dress by Versace. A famous personality you admire for their sense of style. Victoria Beckham.
Blazers are a big fashion statement this autumn. Will you be wearing them? I’m not really into blazers. I prefer a long cardigan in grunge style, which I hear is making a comeback. What small bag would you buy now? I’d like a studded backpack by Michael Kors. Which fashion item will make it to your wardrobe this month? A floor sweeping maxi skirt in black with small red lipsticks printed all over. A famous personality you admire for their sense of style. I like Rihanna’s punk meets rock chic style.
Kristina
Alessandra
Street style Romina Farrugia brightens up the autumn streets.
Susan
Sabine
Blazers are a big statement this autumn. Will you be wearing them? I want a tuxedo jacket to pair it with an LBD for instant glamour. I could also play it down with ripped jeans.
Blazers are a big statement this autumn. Will you be wearing them? Definitely. I like them oversized with a vintage touch and usually team them up with extra slim jeggings to emphasise the silhouette.
What small bag would you buy now? I’d like to get myself a two-tone Valentino lock bag, the one with the pyramid-like studs in the centre.
What small bag would you buy now? I love clutches especially those by Karl Lagerfeld.
Which fashion item will make it to your wardrobe this month? Big drop earrings in gold and pants in this season’s marsala shade. A famous personality you admire for their sense of style. Kendall Jenner.
Which fashion item will make it to your wardrobe this month? A black leopard print, fringed scarf. A famous personality you admire for their sense of style. My idol is Beyonce. She’s sexy and classy – perfect combination.
FM Issue 179 - 29
NOIHSAF
Ruben
Sabine
Street style Blazers are a big fashion statement this autumn. Will you be wearing them? My blazer, when I manage to find it, will have sequins. They’re a must for this season. What small bag would you buy now? I’d get a perspex clutch by Charlotte Olympia. That what I call real arm candy.
Blazers are a big fashion statement this autumn. Will you be wearing them? I’ll probably wear a couple of blazers and give them a casual feel with cuffed jeans. What bag would you buy now? I can’t stop thinking about an army print weekender with brown leather trimmings by Monte & Coe.
Which fashion item will make it to your wardrobe this month? Luxe leather leggings.
Which fashion item will make it to your wardrobe this month? I love wearing t-shirts also in winter so I will probably get a lightweight cardigan for layering.
A famous personality you admire for their sense of style. Olivia Palermo.
Dream car? Maserati Gran Turismo S.
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new FALL WINTER 2015 collection
THE SAVOY, VALLETTA COMING SOON TO ST LUCY STREET, VALLETTA
PHOTOGRAPHY
Hide and he seeks Jacobo Medrano zooms in on the urban backstreets and alleys in search of hidden humanity.
What are your first memories of a camera? I remember playing with an old Fujica my father had, running around the house trying to get things in focus in the viewfinder. However, it wasn’t until I was in college that I started to feel curious about photography. My grandfather was an amateur photographer but ironically he passed away just before I developed a real interest in photography. I would have loved to discuss a few things with him, but I was too late. Do you remember the first photo that you took consciously? Actually I do. I went to England on a summer English course when I was eight or nine, and took a little folding camera with me. I only had one roll of film and it had to last for a whole month, so I was pretty careful about what pictures I shot. One day I saw a beautiful old MG sportscar and decided to photograph it as a gift for my father, who is a big classic car enthusiast. I remember framing carefully and releasing the shutter, but I have no idea of where that photo may be now. A lot of your photos involve a journey. How far are you willing to travel to find a photo? Travelling is a cyclical thing for me. I never really felt the urge to see different places until I started to get involved with photography, but then I started travelling as much and as far as I could. Seeing the work that masters such as David Alan Harvey or Alex Webb had done in South America or Asia made me feel I had to go there and see what I could do. Now I feel I have to focus on closer subjects, both geographical and sentimentally. I think that there are many stories around me, in Spain or even in Madrid, that I can tell much better than other stories abroad since it’s easier for me to get to know and understand the people involved in them. That doesn’t mean I have lost interest in travelling. Only that now I don’t need to be halfway around the world to start working.
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YHPARGOTOHP
“I find it interesting to move around the shadow line that divides what we really are and what we want to pretend we are.”
When you travel, it seems that your photos tend to explore the backstreets, alleys and frontiers. What inspires you about these hidden places? I find it interesting to move around the shadow line that divides what we really are and what we want to pretend we are. Many times what happens in the backstreets and alleys is what we want to hide, consciously or not, and I constantly find myself going back to these places to try to capture some of the atmosphere of these hidden things, of these moments when we are plainly ourselves because nobody is watching us. Does a photo find you, or do you go looking for it? For me, photography is quite instinctive, so I guess I could say they find me. Even when I’m working on a story, and I know exactly what photos I need, I find myself chasing ideas that I find on the spot. The only exception is portraits: I nearly always have a pretty close idea of what I want when it comes to shooting portraits, and I go straight for it. I find this approach useful because it lets me forget about technical stuff and focus on establishing a fluid communication with the person I’m photographing, and that is what’s eventually going to bring me the picture. Does shooting from particular angles give you away and make your presence felt in your photos? There is always something of us in everything we do. Any decision you take, from where you place the camera or what settings you use, to when you decide to release the shutter, affects the final result dramatically. So I guess yes, there is much of me in every photo. Only I’m not the right person to judge that. What are you currently working on? At the moment I’m quite busy with editorial assignments and commercial work, but I’m working on a long-term project on recycling I started in Brazil a couple of years ago. I’m planning to photograph people who work in recycling in Spain, and I’ll see where the story takes me. It’s a subject that may easily require two or three more years, but I have the feeling that all this effort may end up in quite a solid body of work. FM
Behind the lens Name: Jacobo Medrano Age: 34 City: Madrid Photography: Decided to study photography while finishing a degree in mechanical engineering Portfolio: www.jacobomedrano.com
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FASHION
The scarlet letter It’s red alert this season as the bold colour returns.
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Light his fire
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1. SWEATER BY TALLY WEIJL, €19.99 | 2. PIAZZA ITALIA TOP €19.95 | 3. ACCESSORIZE MARIANNE PRINT DRESS, €135 | 4. JENNYFER BOOTS, €35.99 | 5. LUXE DRAPE CARDIGAN BY M&CO, €46.50 | 6. TOMMY HILFIGER WOMEN’S BOOTS, €89.90 | 7. RED LINEAR DRESS BY BHS, €49.50 | 8. TOP BY TALLY WEIJL, €25.99 | 9. BURBERRY-CHECK EMBOSSED LEATHER POUCH, €325 | 10. DESIGUAL HEART BAG, €79 | 11. ACCESSORIZE CHECK SCARF, €25.90 | 12. COCCINELLE BAG, €370 | 13. ACCESSORIZE VINTAGE BUCKLE FLOPPY HAT, €39.90 | 14. DOLCE&GABBANA LACE POINTED-TOE PUMP, €705 | 15. ACCESSORIZE 1970S SADDLE BAG, €37.90 | 16. PIAZZA ITALIA MEN’S FELPA, €17.95 | 17. HILFIGER DENIM MEN’S DOWN-FILLED VEST, €169
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WARDROBE
The clash It’s the season to be quirky. Bibiche Rath has some mix and match fun.
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atchwork, brocades, check, tweed, paisley, retro, tartan, eastern and animal prints. Fringe and flair. The best of the 1960s, 70s and 80s. A mix of lace, denim, suede, velvet, fur, silk, wool, leather and transparent fabrics. All different trends. But in these quirky times, you can take your pick and mix and match. Masculine meets feminine and symmetry can be traced in asymmetry. This season is going to be so much fashion fun. I can’t wait to mix and (mis)match all the different prints, styles and textures. Yes, I love clashing everything. I think it gives your outfit a more personal twist – a unique stamp.
Mix and matching The season has changed and so should your wardrobe. Or not? Besides the outstanding pussy bow dress, trench coat, long and high slit skirts, culottes, over the knee boots and cape trends, the most important must-have, you already own. I’m fairly confident in saying that you can fastforward your existing wardrobe into AW/15 without much spending. This girls, is because the blouse is back. I bet you already have one in your closet. You may also be lucky enough to still have an old roll neck – please don’t throw that away either, because it could very well become the hardest working items in your wardrobe this season.
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Believe it or not… Your summer collection will also be in the picture this winter. Team up your blouse or roll neck with a tank top butwear the latter on top – this way, you’ll have automatically kept up to date with the latest catwalk trends. Alternatively, have some fun with it and play around with ideas like buttoning all the way up and adding a skinny scarf or printed necktie.
EBORDRAW
The blouse is back From fully closed to fully open From the roll necks to the high up buttoned blouse trend, let’s now finally unbutton all the way to the last (and most revealing) neckline trend. Say hi to the daring, plunging V-neck! This neckline, as well as showing off some skin, is trending this winter. And don’t even get me started about the bare skin under a blazer look. The suit is hot this season, and so is the whole of your boyfriend’s wardrobe.
Follow Dutch stylist and blogger Bibiche on www.b-biche.com
Opposites attract The borrowed-from-the-boy trend is one of my favorites. However, make sure to give it a feminine twist. Think: your sexy high slit maxi skirt with his bomber jacket. Your asymmetric mini skirt with his tee and blazer. Your masculine velvet suit with heels and a statement necklace. Your lace blouse and his comfy
sweatpants. Your off shoulder top and his jeans. So go wild and team up that masculine energy with that romantic lace. Again, clash everything. The summer and the winter, the old and the new, your boyfriend’s with your yours. Try it all and have fun with it. Remember: being yourself never goes out of style.
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brings cool back to the kitchenback to the kitchen with engaging content, edgy design and a lifestyle flair.
OUT IN DECEMBER 2015 Distributed exclusively from Park Towers supermarkets and from selected outlets.
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BEAUTY
face your
make-up fears
Dyna brushes up on some common make-up issues.
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he whole point of make-up is to make us look and feel good. So don’t beat yourself up if you overapply your foundation or if you struggle with a certain application. We all do. I’ve had my share of make-up fails and still do. After all, it’s a learning experience and it’s good to try out different techniques. The following tips might not work for everyone, but it never hurts to try. Just remember that these tips are only meant as a guideline to help you gain more confidence with your make-up application. Have a very fabulous make-up day.
#1 Stop your mascara from smearing on your under eye area as you apply it A lot of people struggle with this one. That’s perfectly fine because we all do at some point. When we apply mascara onto our lower lashes, it suddenly becomes the case of the shaky hand and it gets all over the place. Mascara can sense your fear. All you have to do is apply your mascara in a vertical motion and swipe from side to side as opposed to applying your mascara horizontally and wiggling side to side. That way, you’ll avoid getting the mascara on your skin underneath your eyes. It’s amazing the difference it makes.
#2 Stop your lipstick from feathering Some lipsticks stay put while others slip and slide and go all over the place over time. They tend to slide through fine lines and we get a less polished lip look over time. After you finish with your make-up, apply a clear wax lipliner as a boundary for the lip to stay in. The wax lipliner will help make it stay put and in place and will help your lip application look more flawless hours after application.
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BEAUTY
#3 Stop over-applying your foundation This is a common issue with foundation. To apply it evenly all over the face we often tend to overdo it, but the truth it you really don’t have to. You would need to start by applying your foundation on the centre of the face where the face normally needs more coverage. Start at the centre and with a brush or a sponge blend the foundation outwards. That way, you avoid foundation edges on your face and your foundation application looks more natural.
#4 Stop your eyeliner from smearing down Sometimes even the longest lasting eyeliner smears down and it gets so frustrating. And sometimes the problem lies in other products that you use and not just the liner. You need to avoid applying anything oily on your face because oil breaks down the longest lasting eyeliners. First of all, it’s very important that you use an oil-free moisturiser under your make-up. It’s also very important to choose your concealer wisely. Use a water-based concealer (or if you apply foundation only, a water-based foundation) under your eyes. The first three ingredients often show water (often listed as aqua) or else some form of oil. Applying an oil-based product that close to your liner causes smearing. Another thing which will help your liner stay put is to set the concealer or foundation with a translucent powder. The translucent powder will absorb any excess oils that your skin might have or might produce over time and is going to help your eyeliner last longer in return. Magic.
#5 Applying eyeliner to the waterline and tightlining A lot of people get so scared as the eyeliner approaches their eye. But it doesn’t have to be that way. Your relationship with eyeliner can get a whole lot easier with this tip. All you need to do is place the liner on the outer area of the eye (so that your eyeball doesn’t detect it), close your eyes and glide it along your eyes. You can direct the liner up or down to get the liner either on the waterline only or to tightline and you’re good to go. It’s never been easier.
dyna Dyna is a make-up artist and beauty vlogger. For more of her looks visit www.makeupbydyna.com and bit.ly/dynamua.
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TRENDS
Chill with a thrill FM turns winter cold into fashion gold.
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DSQUARED
SAINT LAURENT
LANVIN
EMILIO PUCCI
either you nor us want to think about winter – the cold wind, the buffeting rain and ungainly layering sends, well, a shiver down our spine. But there’s plenty of consolation of the fashionable kind because this season’s wardrobe is stylish, elegant, colourful and adventurous: cue graphic and oversized coats, military wear, lengths of Victoriana lace, hints of a boho 1970s summer and a 1980s revival. So, still feeling the cold? We didn’t think so.
VALENTINO
Black and white
Furry nice
Bold rhymes with cold. And that’s exactly what AW/15 give us: plenty of bold moves in the shape of vivid lines, graphic patterns, zebra prints and geometric optical illusions. The colours of choice for this trend are black and white, as seen on the Valentino, Emilio Pucci and Saint Laurent catwalks. For a bolder move, go for head to toe colour blocking.
No winter wardrobe is complete without a bit of fur – a warm and fuzzy coat is the ultimate essential. For this season, Dsquared and Lanvin went all Arctic with Eskimoinspired fur hoods. Alber Elbaz found inspiration in his native Morocco with Berber styles while Chitose Abe paid tribute to the African queen. Sheepskins and furs meet native and tribal prints and patterns – a warm combination.
CHLOE
CHRISTOPHER KANE
NINA RICCI
GIVENCHY
Very velvet
hit the reef
No dipping temperature should keep you away from powering up with some evening elegance. This season’s material of choice is velvet. The full-length velvet seen at Valentino and Chloe are especially gorgeous and give you an elegant, striking silhouette. Bring on the night.
Traditionally, the reefer jacket was worn by the military and is based on the US Navy’s classic double-breasted blue coat. This season, the reefer jacket makes its fashion debut: seen ultra long at Chloe, over-the-shoulder Italian style at Michael Kors and paired with lace at Nina Ricci.
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TRENDS
BURBERRY
SAINT LAURENT
MAISON MARGIELA ETRO
The shining
That’s all folk
If you want to stand out, then this trend is right up your street. Sleek and shiny, this gives your wardrobe a killer look. Choose from lipstick red as seen at Loewe or the jet-black shine as proposed by Maison Margiela.
This summer’s hippy feel continues in winter with a 1970s-inspired wardrobe. It’s a happy trend with plenty of boho elements, slouchy shapes, patchwork, and a textural overload featuring knits and suede.
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1. RIVER ISLAND BLACK ROLL NECK KNITTED TOP, €25 | 2. MAISON SCOTCH MILITARY JACKET, €99.95. AVAILABLE FROM JUNCTION, THE PLAZA SHOPPING CENTRE, SLIEMA | 3. WAREHOUSE SHIFT DRESS, €68 | 4. MAISON SCOTCH SHIRT, €89.95, AVAILABLE FROM JUNCTION, THE PLAZA SHOPPING CENTRE, SLIEMA | 5. SUITEBLANCO, €39.99 | 6. ESPRIT, €99.99 | 7. RIVER ISLAND BLACK LEATHER-LOOK SKIRT
The who, what, why, wear of the net
gizeleagogo.blogspot.com.mt A Brazilian take on fashion
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thefashionguitar.com A fashion blog that sings
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talesofendearment.com Go back in time with vintage looks
PLAYING AT THE THEATRE Photographer
KRIS MICALLEF www.krismicallef.com Stylist
KIRA DRURY Hair
ORIANA
at 1866 The New Age Hair Shop t. 21371863 Make-up
KIDA
at Roseberry Model
CHANELLE at ModelsM
ESPRIT WHITE SHIRT, €39.99 | ESPRIT BLACK JUMPER, €69.99 | SUITEBLANCO SKIRT, €29.99 | RIVER ISLAND HAT, €35.00
SCOTCH & SODA MONOCHROME TOP, €129.95 | RIVER ISLAND RED TROUSERS, €55.00 SUITEBLANCO STUD GLOVES, €13.99 | TALLY WEIJL CHAIN CHOKER, €7.95
RIVER ISLAND POLONECK, €18.00 | TALLY WEIJL SHORTS, €25.99 | NUDIE AT IQ BRACE, €69.95 ECCO SHOES AT KING SHOE SHOP €124.90 | SUITEBLANCO BLACK SOCKS, €1.99
TOMMY HILFIGER STRIPE SHIRT, €99.90 | ARMANI JEANS FAUX FUR JACKET, €360.00 ARMANI JEANS LEATHER SKIRT, €165.00 | ACCESSORIZE TASSEL NECKLACE, €19.90
SUITEBLANCO RED DRESS, €29.99 | RIVER ISLAND CAPE, €80.00 | ACCESSORIZE GOLD CHOKER, €12.90
TALLY WEIJL MONOCHROME JUMPER, €19.99 | SUITEBLANCO RED PLEAT SKIRT, €54.99 SCOTCH & SODA AT IQ LEATHER GLOVES, €89.95 | CARPISA BOX BAG, €25.99 | PRINCIPLES AT DEBENHAMS SHOES, €59.00
FASHION
The final touch Complete your look with this season’s shoes, bags and accessories.
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1. REVO SUNGLASSES AT SOLARIS, €79 | 2. BOUX AVENUE LACE TRIM KIMONO (SIZE 6-18), €65 | 3. MICHAEL KORS WATCH | 4. FOSSIL WATCH | 5. SUITEBLANCO BOOTS, €54.99 | 6. RIVER ISLAND FAUX SUEDE BOOTS, €85 | 7. BURBERRY BELTED EQUESTRIAN RAIN BOOTS, €275 | 8. COCCINELLE BAG, €298 | 9. ESPRIT BAG, €79.99 | 10. COCCINELLE BAG, €298 | 11. BRACELET BY CRUCIANI
FM SPOTS
a world of colour
Tower Road in Sliema has never seen so much colour as the new Desigual Authorised Dealer, a first for Malta, opened its doors. The flagship Desigual store includes four levels of fashion for women, men and kids. Each level is designed with bohemian and ethnic patterns that take you into the world of Desigual. Special guests at the official opening included Jose María Pons, Ambassador of Spain accredited to Malta, and Magdalena Melita, EMEA area manager for Desigual who also gave a short speech to commemorate the event. The store features the latest Desigual YES! Collection, fresh off the New York runways, with looks that blend together centuries of culture and beauty. The YES! Collection is characterised by ethnic chic looks, unique accessories, arty dresses and bursts of colour, styles which today are loved by women and men of all ages.
It’s the one
Clad in a polished gold flacon, Dolce & Gabbana The One comes alive with bold perfection. Like the woman who wears it, the strength and uniqueness of The One fragrance comes from contrast. The rich oriental floral perfume opens with a sparkling and modern interpretation of fresh top notes of bergamot and mandarin, combined with lychee and peach. The journey to the heart of the fragrance follows into the timeless scent of the Madonna lily with its intensity and enveloping femininity. The fragrance finally unfolds to reveal a sensual base of rich vanilla and resinous ambery notes, combined with musky notes to leave a lingering presence. For local trade enquiries, call VJ Salomone (Marketing) on 8007 2387.
Style and comfort This season explore the latest Albano collection at Gauda Sliema. This collection offers stylish women’s shoes and boots. Find what you are looking for and with a selection of heels to suit everyone’s needs. Shop at Gauda Sliema this season for the latest looks and check for updates and weekly arrivals on the Gauda Sliema Facebook page. Gauda, Bisazza Street and Manwel Dimech Street, Sliema. T: 2134 6957 / 2133 6985.
A man of adventure
Paul&Shark explores the mystery of the Arctic by stylistically rewriting the timeless challenge of the man who never backs down in the face of an adventure to pursue his dream, relentlessly. The brand looks to this ice-covered universe revealing the class of a person who opts for elegance, relying on technologically advanced materials that ensure maximum comfort, always.
Where luxury meets style
Sands specialises in leather goods, including handbags, satchels, attaché cases, man bags, purses, wallets and more. At Sands, originality is key and is combined with versatility and excellent quality at a fair price. A huge range of colours and styles is available. Sands also carries high quality luggage brands, including Fabrizio and Dielle, as well as quality accessories such as silk scarves. Sands outlets are in Merchants Street, Valletta, Islets Promenade, Bugibba and Constitution Street, Mosta. For more information visit www.sandsmalta.com.
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