SEPTEMBER 2010. ISSUE 1 4 7.
WEDGE BOOT €44.99 BROGUE €21.99 FAUX FUR BOOT €39.99 STUDDED COURT €35 BUCKLE BOOT €44.99 HEELED LACE UP €39.99
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September ISSUE 147 WELCOME Take the weather with you, sang Crowded House. And wear it, we add, because it is the weather that has the right of first refusal over our wardrobe. When temperatures start dropping, winter becomes a wonderland of giant knits, stylish trench coats and lovely layering. Spring and summer, on the other hand, take the woolly sting out of winter. The light is fabulous, the sky is a hundred feet deep, and clothes are a free, fun, fabulous acknowledgement to bare feet, sand, colour and ice-cream laughter. So yes, take the weather with you, except in autumn. Contrary to what Eliot wrote, it is not April that is the cruellest month; rather, it is the dull months when the white of summer and the black of winter overlap in a boring shade of grey. Come autumn, normally quick-thinking women stand for hours in front of their wardrobe, dazed and confused as they try and decide what to wear, and not wear. As for men, something emerges from their wardrobe that should never see the light of day – the pullover.
But never you worry because following our summer break, FM is back and to the rescue, spiking autumnal woes with fun. In this issue, we give you the cream of this season’s fashion crop – from statement accessories and sharp tailoring to lace, velvet and big knits, your autumn will be a bright one. We also interview Lucy Wood, Look magazine’s fashion news editor. Wood’s blog has also been recently nominated by Asos.com as one of the top blogs to follow while fashion expert Leon BaileyGreen listed her on his annual Online Fashion 100 for her contribution to online fashion journalism. And she’s just 23 years old. In this issue, we give singer and songwriter Carrie Haber the famous FM makeover treatment. Not only does the young singer have a great voice, but she also has a beautiful eye for fashion. There is, of course, more. We tell you how to wear eco-friendly fashion, take you to the shores of Lake Geneva, and help you avoid the pre-winter slump. Read on and enjoy.
45. Carrie Haber’s makeover 48. Sleeve notes on autumn jackets 51. What Enrique Tabone knows about style 53. On a Swiss roll 57. Beating the autumn slump 58. Christina Darmanin plays for a draw
WIN €300 WITH NEW LOOK! New Look takes styles from catwalk and cutting edge street culture to offer you wearable, trendy and glamorous footwear. To celebrate the launch of its amazing new footwear collection, New Look is offering you the chance to win a season’s worth of shoes. That’s six new pairs of shoes for your A/W essential collection worth up to €300. To participate just answer the following question correctly and send your response to competitions@newlook-malta.com. The first correct answer wins New Look’s fab prize.
Which one of these footwear trends is not an A/W must-have: 1. Clogs / 2. Biker boots / 3. Lace up wedge ankle boots / 4. Thigh highs
4 –– FM September 2010
Photographer: Tonio Lombardi W: www.toniolombardi.com Stylist: Kira Drury Hair: Michelle at Roots, San Gwann T: 2745 4164 Make-up: Nicola Powell M: 9986 5369 Model: Francesca Editor: Anthony P. Bernard E: anthony@fmlifestyle.com Editorial Consultant: Stanley Borg E: stanley@fmlifestyle.com
CONTENTS 7. You won’t miss this Wood 11. Fashion goes the vie en vert way 14. Carry on handbags 17. Are we finally growing up? 21. What Kira Drury bought this month 22. Autumn delights 41. Fashion goes location scouting
COVER CREDITS
Design: Jon Calleja E: unbrandme@gmail.com Printing: Progress Press All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited without written permission. Opinions expressed in FM are not necessary those of the editor or publisher. All reasonable care is taken to ensure truth and accuracy, butthe editor and publishers cannot be held responsible for errors or omissions in articles, advertising, photographs or illustrations. Unsolicited manuscripts are welcome but cannot be returned without a stamped, self-addressed envelope. The editor is not responsible for material submitted for consideration.
For any information regarding editorial, promotion or advertising contact Tel: 00 356 2131 8522 00 44 20 3286 6808 Email: fm@madmediainternational.com FM is published by MADMEDIA International, Mezzanine West, Hadfield House, Library Street, Gibraltar and is distributed free with THE SUNDAY TIMES
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INTERVIEW
Kira Drury meets Look magazine’s fashion news editor Lucy Wood, the fastest eye in the fashion west.
t just 23, Look magazine’s fashion news editor Lucy Wood has achieved more than most people twice her age have. Currently styling the nation on the UK’s biggest selling women’s fashion weekly, she has also been nominated for the prestigious PPA Association of UK Magazine and Periodical Publishers News Section Editor of the Year Award in 2008 and contributed to big names such as The Sun, The Daily Mail, Drapers Record and London Metro.
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Asos.com has also listed Wood’s Twitter as ‘one to follow’ at Asos Follows Fashion. Working on screen and radio, she has appeared as a fashion expert on BBC television series Mary Queen of Shops and contributed fortnightly fashion slots for a BBC Radio Friday afternoon show. “I realised that fashion was what I wanted to do back at college,” says Wood. “We were being pushed to start applying for universities and to be completely honest I didn’t know what I wanted to do. I scanned the UCAS website, skimming over all of the courses. They all looked so dull. Then the fashion journalism course popped up at The London College of Fashion and it dawned on me how much I had an interest in magazines and shopping. It was the only course I applied for and I told myself that if I didn’t get in, I wouldn’t go to university, full stop. It’s a good thing they accepted my application. Fashion is something I know about inside out and that is why I didn’t go down the mainstream journalism route. As a tastemaker you need to know what you are writing about.” “After reading for a degree in fashion journalism at The London College of Fashion, I spent two years at Grazia magazine as their fashion news and features assistant. After that, I took on the position of Look’s fashion news editor. I’ve been here for two and a half years now, managing the fashion news team. That involves styling, writing, shooting, researching and lots of shopping.”
“I also edited style publication Random (www.random-magazine. com) for a year alongside my job at Look and am now running my own fashion blog at www.fashion-editor.com. My blog allows me to open up my notebook to the globe. As a fashion editor I’m always stumbling across fab new labels and my inbox is crammed with the latest new designer items hitting the shops – so why not share all of the extra bits and bobs that don’t make my pages with the rest of the world? I love that I can be completely indulgent and feature all my favourite things.” “Asos.com recently nominated fashion-editor.com as one of the top blogs to follow via www.asosfollowsfashion.com and online fashion expert Leon Bailey-Green listed me on his annual Online Fashion 100 for my contribution to online fashion journalism.” “The secret behind all this? I was extremely lucky which, combined with hard work and with my being in the right place at the right time meant I had a bit of a fast track.” “While studying for my degree I went to Grazia on a two-week work placement and it soon became apparent that the magazine was going to be a great success – I could see the potential for new jobs as the fashion team grew. I asked the fashion coordinator if I could come in each Friday – my one day off university – to help her. I did that for a few weeks and eventually, the fashion editor asked me which direction I wanted to go in and I chose fashion features. The fashion editor then introduced me to the fashion news and features editor and that was it – she didn’t have an assistant so I made myself hers. It was a case of making myself disposable and it worked.” “At the time it was the last year of my degree and I was working at Grazia full time. I even wrote my dissertation at the Grazia office.”
September 2010 FM –– 7
INTERVIEW
“My editor Melanie Rickey taught me everything I know about fashion journalism and for that I owe her the world. By the time I graduated, my current position had come up – I applied and got it. It was just like a dream – a degree and a job as Look’s fashion news editor overnight. If you have a good eye and the ability to edit rails and rails of great clothes down to about ten pieces a page, you can do it. Oh, and I know the dictionary inside out.” “You also need to work hard. Even a normal day is hectic. First thing every morning, I make a cuppa and read all the papers. Next, I go through all the new paparazzi pictures that have come in overnight and spot emerging trends. As e-mails start coming in, I plan what the team will be working on for the day and delegate pages. Then it’s onto calling in product, styling up pages, press appointments and writing articles. If I’m lucky I’ll squeeze in some lunch somewhere along the way.” “Of course, there are ups and downs. The best part of my job is that every day is a shopping day. Topshop’s 40 per cent discount card comes in handy here. There are also bags of free beauty products – I haven’t bought shampoo for years. Still, my biggest achievement yet is becoming an editor at 21. This year’s The Online Fashion Agency named me as one of the 100 most influential people in online fashion, which was a real buzz.”
Photo by Alistair Guy
“The downside to my job is that I’m never going to become rich unless I achieve Gok Wan’s level of fame. And there’s no eye candy either – the industry is 80 per cent female.” FM
And the award goes to… Carpisa has awarded Carpisa Malta as the best retailer out of all 560 Carpisa outlets around the world. Carpisa Malta was the first outlet to open outside of Italy and was successful in introducing the brand to Malta. Thanks to constant hard work and outstanding performance in the five years since its opening, the Carpisa Malta outlet had the biggest increase in sales compared to the previous year. In a few months, another Carpisa outlet will be opened in Malta’s prime high street.
Lucy Wood’s greatest hits Flying on a private jet to the Grand National horse races Meeting Christian Louboutin – my knees literally went weak Sitting opposite Kate Moss at a fashion show – I missed all of the clothes and couldn’t stop staring at her. She looks like fun At a London Fashion Week party at Bungalow 8, I practically pushed Erin Wasson into a speaker while my friend grabbed her thigh and told her how skinny they were. Of course, it was the champagne’s fault
Invest in the have-to-own aviator jacket – you’ll live in it and it’ll end up paying for itself. And don’t forget to pop the collar so that it’s ear-grazing. Shearling-lined clog boots are comfy and cosy for bitter mornings – layer them over woolly socks and top with a cape jacket.
Massimo Dutti has reunited top models Edita Vilkeviciute and David Gandy who together, brought to fore their mesmerising beauty for Massimo Dutti’s latest fashion shoot for the brand’s A/W 2010 collection. Massimo Dutti also commissioned renowned Paola Kudacki who underscored the brand’s casual elegance.
Another must item is a vintage-look tan leather bag and belt. Wear together for a combo that will overhaul and tidy up any frock, whether it’s from the supermarket rails or a designer boutique.
This year’s A/W collection is available at Massimo Dutti at The Point, Tigné Point, Sliema.
What Lucy said next What’s hot and not for A/W 2010
8 –– FM September 2010
Beauty and the best
ww .maassimod www www.massimodutti.com odutt utti.com m
NEW AUTUMN / WINTER COLLECTION
NOW AVAILABLE AT MASSIMO DUTTI STORE, THE POINT, SLIEMA
ECO FASHION
La vie en verte This autumn, go a fashionable shade of eco green, says Daniela Brockdorff.
e all know the feeling – waking up zombified in the early hours of the morning, groping our way to the bathroom, stumbling over a pair of vagabond shoes, and finally rummaging through the wardrobe for something decent to wear for the long day ahead. Now let me ask you a question. Have you ever stopped to consider, in those dark and dreary moments, whether those jeans that are going to hug you throughout the day are eco-friendly or not? Probably not – we usually don’t even have time to question whether what we’re about to wear is from last season or this one.
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But we need to start asking such questions as the world of fashion is going green. And by that I don’t mean that we should all hit the stores for a green maxi dress and a pair of verdant heels to match. Rather, it’s the eco quality that is strutting its stuff down the catwalk.
Hair today Whatever your hair type, there’s a specially designed hair care regime by The Body Shop to unveil the full beauty of your hair. Dry, damaged locks can be revived with the Moisture products, which restore the hair’s softness without weighing it down. For glossy head-turning, indulge in the Shine regime, which delivers incredible light-reflecting shine. Colour treated hair can retain its vibrancy with the help of the Radiance range, while the Balance products reduce excess oil and refresh the hair.
Taking care of the environment is not simply about the infamous three R’s: reducing, reusing and recycling. There is a whole wide world beyond the confines of our cosy homes and that whole wide world is where our clothes come from, passing through countless processes before finding itself nice and pretty-looking in a shop near you. It is this process which we least care about and yet, it is most vital for awareness of what truly makes fashion eco-friendly or not. The Sustainable Technology Education Project identifies ecofashion as “clothes that take into account the environment, the health of consumers and the working conditions of people in the fashion industry”. No one is asking us to do anything silly, so we can wipe away the thought of leaves that must be passing through our minds. In fact, top designers from all around the world are leaving their mark on what is to become a wholly guilt-free process of making clothes. Moreover, their fashion is just as stylish and chic as ever. In the meantime, the BBC has also decided to take action and has launched an online eco-fashion magazine called Thread with tips on how one can be both stylish and sustainable.
September 2010 FM –– 11
ECO FASHION
It certainly is time for all the fashion-lovers out there to get to know what actually goes into the making of the items of clothing that inhabit our wardrobes. Perhaps, little did we know that clothes are usually made by those living in developing countries, people who spend about 18 hours a day working ceaselessly in a sweatshop. One cannot fail to mention the pesticides that farmers use when growing fabrics, with cotton being the crop which uses the most pesticides.
Tangle Teezer Cortex Ltd. has just launched a new brush aimed especially for young princesses. This detangler is like the original Tangle Teezer but also includes a place to store and keep hairclips and pretty ribbons safe. Available from hairdressers or online at www.cortexltd.com
Pesticides are not only a serious threat for the environment but also for all of us as they often end up in the food we eat. Shockingly enough, towards the end of last century, the World Health Organisation estimated an overwhelming annual figure of 3 million poisonings and 20,000 deaths caused by pesticides. Furthermore, the chemicals used to bleach and colour textiles go hand in hand with these pesticides to destroy the world we live in. Opting for organic cotton seems to be the answer and 18 countries have already stopped the use of pesticides in favour of growing organically. Statistics show that even though crop yields fall initially when choosing the greener option, eventually organic production proves to be beneficial both for farmers and for the environment. Other options include the use of recycled textiles and ensuring fair trade. More importantly, a system of eco-labelling is being considered to make sure that the buyers are fully informed of their purchase. The maxim that ignorance is bliss certainly does not apply here. Or rather, unwittingly contributing to our Earth’s downfall is not my idea of bliss. Now you might say that practically most of us are not those farmers dumping pesticides on the face of the earth or businessmen in suits choosing
sweatshops to cut costs. Neither are we in a position to change the world simply by clicking our fingers. Yet we cannot deny the fact that we live on this planet and clothes are a fundamental part of our daily lives. So what can our humble selves do? The online magazine Thread gives some practical guidelines, including not feeding your wardrobe any clothing that you would probably end up throwing away after a few months or so. This is what Thread calls “ethical luxury”. Along with the occasional fashion item that is in vogue at the moment, make sure to buy clothes that are classics and that will therefore last longer. Re-vamp what you consider a soon-to-bejoining-the-bin item. Don’t just throw things away – sometimes, adding a belt, changing some old-fashioned buttons or shortening a hemline might extend an item’s shelf-life. True, we might not have the time for such jobs but creating something for yourself may prove to be quite rewarding. And when you can’t possibly imagine what you can ever do with that piece of clothing haunting your closet, don’t just send it off to join the endless heaps of rubbish in the landfills (we all know what a nightmare these landfills are). Instead call up some friends or family members, invite them over to rummage through your wardrobe and let them choose whatever they want. It could actually be quite fun – after all, your trash might be someone else’s treasure. Last but not least, make sure you watch out for websites that sell eco-friendly clothing or rails in stores that are specifically designated for sustainable clothing. You cannot ignore the world you live in. So it might be worth it to give yourself a touch of green. FM
Play on The new Pedigree Toyshops megastore will be launched this month. The new megastore covers 500 square metres of open space and will stock your favourite toys and games. This one convenient megastore includes parking facilities and on site restroom facilities for kids, including nappy changing. Pedigree Toyshops will soon unveil a season of fun and exciting pre-Christmas activities. Visit the new megastore on the Birkirkara bypass, 200 metres ahead of Mater Dei hospital.
12 –– FM September 2010
Mini takes it to the max The new Mini Countryman was launched last week at Numero Uno, taking the hallmark driving fun of the brand to a new level. This is the first Mini to come with four doors and a large tailgate as well as a versatile interior offering space for up to five people. It is the first Mini which can be ordered as an option with all-wheel drive. With these features, in addition to the Countryman’s raised seating position and optimised ride comfort, the world’s only premium vehicle of its kind crosses the boundaries of urban mobility to take the trademark Mini feeling into new dimensions. For more information contact Muscats Motors Ltd. on Tel: 2326 4505 or info@mml.mizzi.com.mt.
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FASHION
Carry on Add a little glam to your handbag collection with a chic clutch – the perfect call to arm candy. Tonio Lombardi Photographer - T www.toniolombardi.com www.toniolombardi.co Styling - Kira Drury
French Connection sequin with design - €48.30
Carpisa black bow clutch - €15.90 thi things* bro brown rose clutch ch - € €9.00
Debenhams green satin clutch - €26.00 Carpisa satin wristlet - €17.90
New Look sequin floral clutch - €9.00
Accessorize sequin British flag - €49.00
14 –– FM September 2010
Accessorize silver beaded clutch - €46.00 New Look grey rose clutch - €10.00
Debenhams blue bow clutch - €13.00
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CONFESSIONS
A ARE WE FINALLY GROWING UP? What does the rise of the older model say about our age, asks Alison Bezzina. “The more legal and material hindrances women have broken through, the more strictly, heavily, and cruelly, images of female beauty have come to weigh upon us... During the past decade, women breached the power structure; meanwhile, eating disorders rose exponentially and cosmetic surgery became the fastest-growing specialty... and 33,000 American women told researchers that they would rather lose 10 to 15 pounds than achieve any other goal... More women have more money and power and scope and legal recognition than we have ever had before; but in terms of how we feel about ourselves physically, may actually be worse off than our unliberated grandmothers.” The Beauty Myth, 1991, Naomi Wolf.
fashion model’s career is usually over in a flash. For many, many years, successful models had to be so young and skinny that most looked liked they fell off the back of a school van and onto the catwalk. However, in recent years, there has been a visible shift. Somehow, underage, underfed, dried-up stick insects stopped being the only type that the fashion industry would consider, and slowly we started seeing more and more 40- to 50-year-old attractive women boldly representing big cosmetic and fashion brands. A number of former models who had long thought that their career days were over, are now being called back and strongly sought out to get back on to the catwalk and in front of the cameras. They had assumed that their modelling days were over, and left the profession to pursue alternative careers or to have families, and now, they are returning to an industry that once deemed them too old. And they can hardly keep up with the bookings. Just a few days before her 48th birthday, Sharon Stone was signed up for Christian Dior’s new campaign. As expected, at 48, Stone had formed a firm opinion about the situation in Tibet, and soon enough she had to be dropped
from all of Dior’s Chinese advertisements for controversial comments that she passed during the Cannes Film Festival. Miuccia Prada then signed up Kim Basinger, 52, for her campaign while Versace contracted drop dead gorgeous, 52-year-old diva, Madonna. British model Angie Hill, who was very popular in the 1980s, and one of Europe’s highest paid models, had left the modelling world at the age of 24. She then joined her husband’s fashion design firm and went on to have two children. 18 years later, at the age of 42, she is being called back and has signed a major contract with Garnier. Industry experts think that this newfound preference for older models is a result of audiences being fed up of seeing waif-like girls, barely of age, showcasing clothes that most people would look horrible in. They now believe that audiences want to see something more realistic. In recent years, Dove applied this theory, taking it to a particular extreme. They used 95-year-old Irene Sinclair in their Campaign for Real Beauty. The advert candidly posed the question: “Wrinkled or wonderful?” and it was followed by a long series of ads featuring Merlin Glozier, 45, asking the question: “Grey or gorgeous?” September 2010 FM –– 17
CONFESSIONS
But personally I wonder – is this sudden demand for older, mature models really aimed at satisfying the audience’s need for more realistic role models? Or have designers woken up to the realisation that it’s this age group’s spending power that keeps luxury designers and cosmetic brands in business? Have they finally realised that their target customer is not a 16-year-old who eats once a week, but is more likely to be a middle-aged woman with hard-earned disposable cash? Has it finally sunk in that it is more likely for the same older women to part with her spare income if she identifies with the images that she’s presented with? In 2006 Marks and Spencer also tested this approach when the mainstream fashion chain revived Twiggy, four decades after she was first discovered in 1966. They used her across all media and within 13 weeks M&S sales rose by 2.9 per cent, while the share price rose by 50 per cent. As famous and desired as she was, Twiggy had retired at the age of 20, and now, four decades down the line, she is back in high demand and has even appeared as a judge on the hit reality TV show, America’s Next Top Model.
Have they finally realised that their target customer is not a 16-year-old who eats once a week, but is more likely to be a middle-aged woman with hard-earned disposable cash? The result? We are now surrounded by images of preternaturally young, strangely plasticised, airbrushed, photo-shopped, digitally and surgically enhanced images of older women. The saddest part is that celebrities are not the only ones falling victims to the plastic-youth look, because with editors and designers overdoing it with these images, we’re all starting to think that we’re the only unlucky ones who did not apply enough sun protection during our youth, who never chose the right products to suit our skin, and who never invested enough in our appearance. In the past, mature women used to look at magazines and rationalise that the pictures in front of them were of much younger women, or rather girls, and therefore incomparable, but with today’s trend of using older models, there’s no such excuse that we can cling to. It is no wonder therefore that almost two decades after Naomi Wolf wrote The Beauty Myth, 99.9 per cent of us women still think that our thighs are too big, our breasts are too small, and that our clothes are just all wrong, so off we go, like we did back then, to purchase whatever these models happen to be endorsing, thus keeping the fashion industry thriving and well in business. FM
A really good night A good night’s sleep rests and restores our body and mind. For women, periods should not stop them from having a good night’s sleep. During the menstrual cycle, female hormones not only regulate reproductive tissue function but also exert influence on sleep. Always Ultra Night has been specifically developed to ensure women feel comfortable while sleeping. With Always Ultra Night, every woman can have a good night’s sleep and wake up feeling dry and light.
18 –– FM September 2010
SHOPPING
FM stylist Kira Drury is trying to stick to her budget. But on a trip to London, she goes from bad to purse. I’ve been trying to be good with my money – save,, save, save. So a work trip to London doesn’t bode well. I encounter my first hurdle at a vintage market on Brick Lane, where I spot a leather pencil skirt kirt (1). I have to grab it. Real leather for £20 – a bargain. ain.
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While whizzing down Oxford Street I shriek to o a pitstop at the legendary Primark and snap up a 1970s look maxi dress (2), skull vest (3) (from the boy’s oy’s section) and cute cream brogues (4), a steal at just £35 for the lot. ot. It’s off to Topshop next – one pair of floral jeans (5), a baby-doll dress (6) and a trench coat (7) later, I make a hasty exit. Back in Malta I accompany my boyfriend on a shopping spree while e first repeating the mantra, over and over, ‘I shall not shop.’ I fail at the lation by hurdle when I spot a stripie t-shirt (8) at Pull & Bear. I find consolation pes never telling myself that I’ll wear it season after season – after all, stripes nother go out of fashion. However, the truth is that I don’t really need another y usual one – I’ve already got six but shhh, don’t tell anyone. I forget my use. shades at home, so I buy a pair (9) from my shop, The Doll’s House. ount – I’m They’re shiny and red and I love them. And anyway it doesn’t count putting money back int to th to the business. Any excuse will do. into
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September 2010 FM –– 21
TRENDS
Women of the cloth
Monsoon feather clutch - €54
Blumarine
This season, different fabrics and textures create a multi-layered, complex, stylish trend. Velvet is a statement piece in itself, whether it comes in the shape of a classic black dress or a rich, elegant gown. Silks make for stunning party dresses while feathers and furs add layers to an outfit.
Monsoon leopard clutch - €43
It’s the season of love – FM is all heartbeats, shoots and autumn leaves.
J
ust three months ago, we were furrowing our sun kissed brows, not with worry mind you, but in deep thought on how we would spend our summer holidays. Parties and barbecues, longhaul holidays and quick trips to the continent – the possibilities of summer just stretched and yawned in front of us, seemingly endless. And now here we are, putting away our shorts in daring neons and bracing ourselves for the winter cold. And we’re not happy bunnies. The only thing that will cheer us up is that this autumn, fashion does not reflect the threatening clouds and absence of sunlight. And it’s not the brown, muddy puddles that provide inspiration but rather, the bleached, red leaves of the season.
Present claws Animal prints are once again roaring down the catwalk. This autumn, designers took a walk on the wild side, with leopard spots, tiger and zebra stripes, and snakeskin. While some, like Lanvin, opted for the full on look, Emilio Pucci and Dolce & Gabbana used animal prints as details to match sequined skinny trousers and one-shoulder dresses. Used as subtle accessories and on tights, animal prints add a dangerous yet classy element to long, black evening gowns. Emilio Pucci
AUTUMN DELIGHTS
This autumn, fashion trends are fun. Purple, in electric and plum shades, continues to be a staple colour, as do blood and flame red as well as flesh tones. Romance is also high on the agenda – make sure you invest wisely in a small, black number that plays hide and seek with lace. Animal prints also continue roaring, with leopard print coats and zebra print dresses.
Fur enough
So yes, the holidays might be over, but that doesn’t mean you should stop having fun with fashion.
22 –– FM September 2010
Costume National
Silhouettes are either sharp or a celebration of femininity, as seen on the Marc Jacobs and Louis Vuitton catwalks. There is also a nod at wartime fashion and at fun items like jumpsuits in cobalt blue and black velvet. Textures also come out to play this season – luxurious fabrics are embellished with fur elements and jewels, embroidered, draped and pleated. Different textures also create a patchwork of fur, sheepskin, suede and knits.
Fabrics also find comfort in simplicity. The simplest, yet hottest, item this autumn – the cape – changes personality according to fabric. A knitted cape spells home in front of a crackling fire while a grey, cashmere one is an elegant alternative to a coat.
To continue on the animal trend, this season, fur is used in detailing, especially on jackets, satchels, handbags, shoes and accessories. Fox fur looks especially good on mini skirts, while lamb adds a cute element to your cuffs.
Design is at the
HEART
of everything we do
The Point Shopping Mall, TignĂŠ Point www. deb enha ms. c o m. mt
Marni
TRENDS
Caroline Charles
The war isn’t over This season, it’s military, but not as we know it. The military trend takes cue from 20th century uniforms – instead of the pomp of epaulettes and medals, the trend is more subtle with lined boots, draped jersey dresses and cashmere dresses. It’s utilitarian meets comfort and style. And it’s playful, rather than deadly.
Now you see it
This autumn, fashion is nostalgic for the 1950s and 60s, the Mad Men days when men smoked all day and women had the kind of cleavage you could get lost in. Louis Vuitton paraded A-line mid-calf skirts and dresses nipped at the waist. Full-length gowns also hark to the swinging, big band ballrooms while the Ivy League is represented by blanket capes, fox vests, high tube socks and tweed skirt suits. This season, back in time suits us just fine.
Rochas
Once again, fashion is in love with lace. Apart from classic black lace outfits, cute day dresses and sensual see-through gowns, this season also mixes lace with animal prints and loud colours. For their pre-fall collection, Dolce & Gabbana paired their lace creations with neon green, pink and orange separates.
Miu Miu
Erdem
Post-war silhouettes
24 –– FM September 2010
TRENDS
Monsoon Fion Fairisle cardigan - €115
Wearing the trousers
Balmain
Sharp tailoring is the name of this season’s fashion game. Pencil skirts make for the sleekest and most sculptured of silhouettes while 1970s-inspired flares will instantly transform you into a Charlie’s Angel. Trench coats give your shoulders a smart makeover, while attracting the looker’s gaze towards your slim, belted waist. Sharp tailoring comes of age in this autumn’s elegant trousers. Easy to wear, trousers are nonetheless flattering, making a statement without giving you an overkill of power.
Monsoon Katy print tea dress - €95.00
Love in a cold climate It might be easier to fall in love in the summer months. But this autumn, fairy tales come true with a line-up of dreamy fabrics, including velvet, lace, fur, silks and sheer, which all celebrate the beauty of femininity in love.
26 –– FM September 2010
The winner takes it all Cerruti
The autumn palette also throbs with love: deep reds, soft greys, whites and clarets all create a baroque, love vibe. It’s not tragic love, of course, because ruffles and wide 1940s- and 50s-inspired skirts make this romance a pretty, playful one. The Dior catwalk presented layers of ruffles while Oscar de la Renta told a fairy tale in crimson, pink and turquoise.
French Connection in association with Lufthansa was proud to announce the winner of their Fashion Fabulous trip to New York along with a $500 shopping spree in French Connection’s store in Soho. The happy winner, Daniela Grech, was presented her flight ticket at French Connection’s store in Baystreet by Lufthansa General Manager Mr. Heydlauf and VF Group Operations Manager Daniel Camilleri.
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FIND US ON
TRENDS
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WEAR
One of the perks of the cold weather is that we get to wear big knits that hug and cuddle us like no man would. But apart from their huggy bear quality, knits are also a smart, casual alternative. This season’s alpine trend presents chunky knits in warm shades – team with leather boots and flowing skirts for maximum effect.
Mumford & Sons – they’re young and handsome. And their music will make your day.
Daks
The beautiful game makes a welcome return. Lady Gaga makes it to the cover of Vanity Fair. Fashion icon.
TEAR 13-year-old Lourdes designs a fashion collection with mum Madonna. Talk about getting a head start. Kate Moss hires exorcist to rid her London home of evil spirits. Away.
One step further Bata’s A/W 2010 collection is characterised by elegance and style for the city look with a bit of glam. The New Collection gives a dynamic and decisive look to all those who wear it, courtesy of the latest trends of colours and mixed materials. The Bata Collection is exclusively available from Old Theatre Street Valletta, The Point Shopping Complex Sliema and The Duke Shopping Complex Gozo.
Back to school with a New Look New Look is putting fashion firmly back on the school timetable by giving Sixth Form and University students 10% off each transaction by showing a valid SMART card when they make a purchase. Terms and conditions apply. Join New Look Malta on Facebook for exclusive offers, fashion tips, competitions and more.
One day it’s too hot, the other it’s too cold. Can’t the weather decide?
BLOGWATCH
FASHION WORTH GOING
diaryofavintagegirl.com The life and times of a 1940s enthusiast.
lefashionimage.blogspot.com No words – just a happy snap collection.
FOR...
fashionbananas.com A blog about fashion, beauty and love. NLT10168180
28 –– FM September 2010
THE WHO, WHAT, WHY, WEAR OF THE NET
The Look: Bomber
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From catwalk to floorwalk
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Tees are a sexy key look for the Modettes story, in shapes from long and fitted to boxy and square. Key features on tees include dropped shoulders, patch pockets, rolled up sleeves and dropped hems. Bold, pretty colours, gypsy florals and prints are also key to the look.
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The Colours: A base colour palette of black, charcoal and grey and navy, combined with oxblood, red, khaki, nude and white helps create a retro 1960â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s colour palette heavily influenced by the youthfulness of the Mods of that time.
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TIME OF YOUR LIFE Stay stylish in these classic wardrobe must-haves
Photography: Tonio Lombardi www.toniolombardi.com Styling: Kira Drury Hair: Michelle at Roots T: 2745 4164 Make-up: Nicola Powell M: 9986 5369 Model: - Francesca
Orsay skinny jeans - €34.90 Orsay black vest - €5.95 Bowler hat, stylist’s own The Doll’s House chunky necklace - €25.00 Opposite Tally Weijl black dress - €19.95
French Connection grey dress - €150.00 Orsay leggings - €12.95 Opposite Orsay grey vest - €5.95 Peacocks denim shorts - €20.95 New Look waistcoat - €39.00 Accessorize necklace - €14.90 Debenhams tights - €6.00 Mexx boots - €59.95 34 –– FM September 2010
Esprit stripe t-shirt - €19.95 New Look dungaree shorts - €29.00 Opposite New Look dress - €37.99 Mango jacket - €159.00 Specs, stylist’s own
36 –– FM September 2010
New Look mac jacket - €44.95 Mango leather gloves - €29.90 Debenhams tights - €6.00 Opposite The Doll’s House bow necklace - €15.00 Piazza Italia white shirt - €20.99 New Look black skirt - €19.00 The Doll’s House ring - €10.00
38 –– FM September 2010
FASHION
Model Marion walking for Benetton Left to right - InFashion’s Antonella Vella, model Kristen, InFashion’s Shideh Olafsson, UK’s Geoff Cox and Amy Symons, model Leah and InFashion’s Kristoff Zammit Ciantar
Model Kurt during Malta In Fashion showcase
Location, location, location InFashion Malta is putting the island on the fashion map, says Melanie Fielding. Photos by David Mansfield.
Model Audrienne walking for new Maltese label Celeste Geoff Cox and Amy Symons choosing models for auditions Models Antonella and Kim walking for Charles and Ron
he business aspect of fashion has always been at a mediocre level in Malta, barely scraping by as an industry and very misunderstood by the general public. Even joining the EU has not assisted the presence of Malta within the European fashion industry.
T
Malta is at a ripe stage to be introduced to Europe’s fashion industry. Apart from the incredible talent base of models, photographers, make-up artists, stylists and fashion designers that Malta has to offer, the natural beauty of the island provides the perfect backdrops for fashion shoots.
Models Trinity and Ilona backstage in Fat Gold
So why has it taken so long for these elements to be properly marketed to the worldwide industry? Why has the island never drawn much international attention to its fashion sector? One local company that is finally making this happen on the island is InFashion Malta, a well established, three director agency representing all aspects of Maltese fashion talent. “InFashion was set up six years ago as a modelling agency only. Now we represent models, make-up artists, photographers, stylists and fashion labels. We try to be a bit different than the average talent agency and we promote each other as a collective,” says Kristoff Zammit Ciantar, one of the directors.
“We also like to promote our talent abroad more than locally. The local market still knows we are here and we get regular work through them, but our resources and our concentration go on getting our talent placed abroad or getting media from around Europe to shoot here”, adds Shideh Olafsson, the newest of the three directors. This is evident in the agency’s work as they held their first edition of the Malta In Fashion event on Sunday, August 29 at Marrakech in Rabat. The night was held in two parts – the VIP showcase which was more like a casting for all of their models and a seven-label fashion show to the public later in the evening. The night also featured some respected names from the European fashion industry that were flown over especially for the occasion. “We got to the point where we had to think productively about how to showcase all aspects of Malta and its fashion talent. So we thought of a way of getting these people to the island to see first hand what we had to offer,” says Antonella Vella of InFashion. The guests included journalists, TV personalities, advertising agents and Geoff Cox from Top Model, one of the most recognisable fashion and modelling industry brands in the UK which has expanded with a worldwide division in 2010 along with a recently launched TV Channel – Top Model TV.
MUA Karen Schembri Grima and model Leah backstage
September 2010 FM –– 41
FASHION
Fashion Insider TV interview with Shideh Olafsson and Kristoff Zammit Ciantar of InFashion
TVM conducting interview with InFashion Kristoff Zammit Ciantar and Geoff Cox
FM was fortunate enough to chat to Cox about his visit to the island. “Malta makes for a stunning backdrop,” said Cox. “I have been very fortunate to have had a chance to see most of the islands’ feature areas and have already considered a number of options for possible future shoots, including one during this particular stay with two Maltese models signed to InFashion Malta.” As for the Malta In Fashion event, Cox said that “It was a great showcase for the local talent and I was very impressed with the organisation. I look forward to seeing the show grow and am proud to have been part of such a pioneering venture. Moreover, I have made some great contacts and hope to have some of the models I’ve seen working in London.” Mr Cox also extended his trip to Malta by four days to conduct more auditions and castings. Fat Gold designers Jon Calleja and Ken Chircop
“We love outside influence on our talent,” says Shideh Olafsson. “We love hearing what they can do better and how they can improve. Sometimes you get stuck in your own way if you don’t let others guide you. And to be honest, our models are strong and they love the international feedback and they take it on board beautifully.”
Model Marion walking for Benetton
booked our models, photographer, stylist and make-up artist after meeting them at the event and seeing their work. This is amazing news for us. Insignia magazine from Russia has also shown interest in coming back to the island, this time for a cover story,” says Kristoff Zammit Ciantar. Another of the agency’s VIP guests was Marcellous L Jones, the fashionably famous TV host of Paris show, The Fashion Insider which has now expanded into a website and a published magazine. The TV crew walked around the event and interviewed some key players in the island’s industry and plan to run a full show on the event in the next few months. “We are very happy with the result of our event. It took months to plan and organise but with the help of some great sponsors onboard, we hope to do this at least annually. If nothing else, it helps put this little island on the map in the European fashion industry and gives hope to up and coming models and designers that once they start in this field, only the sky is the limit for them,” concludes Shideh Olafsson. FM
The agency is now riding the successful wave that this event created – two of their models confirmed to walk at London Fashion Week in September this year, while they have also secured some very good business from the other attendees. Not only has this been good exposure for the models, photographers and make up artists, but it has also put Maltese fashion labels such as Fat Gold, Celeste, Erin-Coal and Charles & Ron in front of the right people to help launch them in Europe. “Push It magazine from the UK is returning at the end of the month to do a full shoot on the island. They have
Model Maria and Erin-Coal designer Caroline Vassallo
Pavli Medvevova, InFashion show stylist
42 –– FM September 2010
Model Carl walking for Tommy Hilfiger
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Visit our website www.cortexltd.com to Book online to reserve a place for our presentation. Please note that this presentation is for hairdressers and hairdressers assistants only. Hair: Andrew Barton & Racoon Artistic Team, Make-up: Ruby Hammer, Photography: Elise Du Montet, Styling: Cassie Steer
Every month, stylist Luke Engerer and his makeover team will visit one lucky reader, rummage through her wardrobe and give her a restyle. It’s all treats but no tricks as Luke & Co. only use your own clothes to create a new style for you.
THE STYLE COUNCIL is m FM’s makeover tea e Luk made up of stylist er ph gra oto Engerer, ph make-up Tonio Lombardi, gory and artist Melanie Gre le hairdresser Michel Galea at Roots Hair Salon.
out of the closet
MAKEOVER
Stylist Luke Engerer and Carrie Haber sing a song in the key of style. Photography - Tonio Lombardi
ABOUT A GIRL Carrie Haber, singer and songwriter. People see me as a pretty bold character with a few loose nuts. I blame that on my hair colour and expressive gestures. What you see is not the real me – my stage persona is slightly quirkier and quite theatrical. I achieve this simply by setting my emotions free. I’m a Leo, which means that behind my achievements there is a lot of hard work. Some people think that it’s luck all the way, but I believe that you create your own luck. Wanting to stand out is in my nature. And I find it secretly entertaining to see people’s different reactions to me.
BEFORE I was really excited to work with Carrie. I had caught her performance at Teatru Unplugged last year and loved her quirky, theatrical style of music and clothes. I just knew that Carrie’s makeover would be lots of fun. Carrie is currently living in London, so we meet up with her while she is in Malta. Carrie is a very sociable, fun loving girl – she greets us wearing olive green shorts, an olive green tube top with an orange flower design, and her Cheeky Monkey badge. I had been warned that she only had a few pieces with her as she was only visiting for a few days but I was still confident that we would find the right outfit. Carrie had laid out all the clothes she had with her in preparation for my visit. I had a quick scan and went straight for the black tulle ballerina skirt – I felt it really embodied Carrie’s look. Then I came across a corset-like red and black lace-up top, and the rest is style history.
I love vintage clothes. I just wish I was born in the 1940s or 50s so I could wear those gorgeous frocks. Many have described my style as a meetin-the-middle between slightly old fashioned and modern touches. My favourite physical feature is my hair. The same cannot be said for my thighs though. I love my little hats. I think they make an outfit that much more unique – they’re the cherry on the fashion cake. My beauty routine is quite simple. I walk a lot – I feel that it revives me. And every now and then, I enjoy a nice bath while my facemask dries. It’s bliss.
If I’m in a hurry I can get ready in 20 minutes. When I’m not, I can stretch it to two hours. My outfit has to match my mood, otherwise I won’t feel right. I usually spend some 30 minutes staring at my wardrobe, hoping for inspiration. Then I shower – the hotter the water, the better – and dry my hair. I spend ages getting my make-up right. For me, makeup is an art and it deserves as much passion as I give a painting. The final act is choosing which accessories to wear. Still, I rarely have time for that and usually end up without any accessories – save for my hat, of course. Always take other people’s promises with a pinch of salt – that way, you’ll avoid a lot of disappointments. Now that I’m living in London I cannot see myself living anywhere else. I’ve already gained so much from being here. I’m currently working on my second music video for one of the tracks on my EP, It’s Complex. The song is called Spectator and it is a very dark song which I am eager to portray in the video. Martin Bonnici and Denise Scicluna are directing it – the two are a match made in heaven. I’m also recording with Steve Orchard, whose production CV includes names like Sting, U2, Massive Attack and Peter Gabriel. I’ve also been invited to host at a London venue where I will be booking the artists myself as well as headlining each show on a weekly basis.
Hair
Make-up
Michelle Galea at Roots Hair Salon. T: 2745 4164, M: 9945 4164
Melanie Gregory, M: 7772 8043
“Carrie already has a really cool cut and colour so it was not difficult to get it looking super cool. I first washed and conditioned her hair. Then I applied some leave-in conditioner for added moisture, and volumising mousse and curl cream to give definition to Carrie’s curls. I diffused her hair and used volumising dust for some extra boost. Then I used some hair spray for hold and finished off with some shine and hold spray.”
“I first used a light foundation base complimented and a shimmery translucent powder. Then I highlighted Carrie’s cheekbones and used a bright pink blush on her cheeks. On her eyes I used a shimmer eye-shadow in sparkly white colour and a glossy black liner followed by a pair of glam faux lashes. To finish off the look I gave Carrie cupid lips to match her fun and quirky personality.”
September 2010 FM –– 45
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Trade Enquiries VJ Salomone (Marketing) tel: 8007 2387
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MAKEOVER
“I loved every bit of my makeover – the make-up is particularly impressive. I would describe the final look as a love story gone awry.”
AFTER Carrie is all smiles during her makeover. “The skirt is actually an undergarment,” she says. “It came with another dress I had bought in Camden. I particularly love its resemblance to a ballerina skirt – I always wished I could be a ballerina, and this outfit brings out the elegance and regal femininity that I love in professional ballet dancers. The red and black work beautifully together and the lace of the top with its skin-tight fit is extremely flattering.” “I feel the whole mood of the outfit is rather dark, which suits my music very well. What makes the outfit unique is the combination of feminine elegance that the clothes portray and the shock of the quirky hair and make-up.” “I loved every bit of my makeover – the make-up is particularly impressive. I would describe the final look as a love story gone awry.”
YOU SHOULD BE SO LUCKY If you want to be our lucky makeover girl, send us an e-mail at model@ fmlifestyle.com and tell us why we should choose you. Also, attach two photos of you – one full body and one head shot – with your e-mail.
“Everyone on the makeover team is friendly and professional. I was so happy to see a group of such talented people working together towards achieving the same goal. There was a lovely atmosphere and lots of laughter, yet not one detail went unnoticed. This is exactly what I look for in a team of professionals.” FM
September 2010 FM –– 47
Sleeve notes Keep cosy as the nights turn chilly with one of these gotta have ‘em trans-seasonal cover-ups www.toniolombardi.com Photographer - Tonio Lombardi - www.toniolomb bardi.com Styling - Kira Drury
Mexx black tux blazer - €139.95
Orsay tweed jacket - €39.95
Mexx cream jacket with chinese collar - €139.00 Peacocks pinstripe blazer - €35.50
Debenhams crop leather jacket - €39.00
Mango denim jacket - €49.90
48 –– FM September 2010
Piazza Italia plum jacket - €27.99
New Look black rose jacket - €35.00
FALL / WINTER COLLECTION 2010
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STYLEWISE
WHAT I KNOW ABOUT STYLE Style is what you make of it, says designer Enrique Tabone.
Style is not fashion. While fashion changes, style will keep developing with you, especially if you overcome your fear of it. Stick to your style and take risks. Express your inner self. To keep my work as fresh as possible, I make it a point to not let the influence of fashion compromise the originality of my designs.
Photo by Kamy Lilly
Feel good about yourself. It’s useless buying the latest fashion if you don’t feel comfortable with yourself. Style requires self-knowledge, both physical and mental – it’s the only way to turn your style into self-expression. Style is not only about the clothing but also about character. It cannot be merely expressed through clothes – style is inside you. Style is a combination. It’s the way you dress, talk and move. Get on a first name basis with the language that is spoken through different types of clothing. This will help you transmit the message you want, while giving a positive first impression. Although style is in your own reflection, do not reveal too much about you – keep it fresh, with just a hint of you.
Be yourself. Style must reflect your truth. If your style clashes with your personality, it will be like wearing a costume. Style is personal creativity and not invention. Appearances do matter. How you look like will influence the message that you send out. Style is a visual language. Style is priceless, but doesn’t cost anything. Style is what you make of it. When you think you have nothing to wear, look again. Numerous bits and pieces can be combined together to create endless possibilities. Maybe for some it is about luxury, but personally I feel that it is more of a personal need. Fashion is just a part of style. You can have loads of clothes and no style, and vice-versa. Style is a journey. Comfort is the first stage, leading to self-confidence and joy in selfexpression. Eventually, your personal style becomes an inherent part of you which you can carry with minimum effort. FM
September 2010 FM –– 51
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COOL ROOMS
On a SWISS roll The view of Lake Geneva is the best wake-up call for Mona Farrugia.
I
t’s just my luck that I arrived at Ouchy and walked into the Beau Rivage Palace a week before chef Anne Sophie Pic did.
During a wonderful motoring trip, I decided to do what the Michelin guide is always telling me to do, and that’s to ‘go out of my way’ for some great food because it’s ‘worth the drive’. As it is, the going out of my way ends up being lovely anyway, but by the time Pic had arrived, I had already stepped on the gas and whizzed off again. If the whole point of my overland trip had been to go from the proverbial point A to point B, there were a hundred alternative, and faster, routes I would have taken. Yet ease was not the intention – scenery was. And some speed too. Going to the Beau Rivage meant that I had every excuse to whizz through the no-limit motorways of Germany – expensive as that motorway tariff was, it was still worth the cost. The route I had chosen, accompanied by my trusty Tom Tom (with the John Cleese voice), involved a scary ride through the Great St Bernard pass on the way: up, up, up I went, through tunnels and frozen roads, with seemingly no down, out of the tunnels through ice and snow and hail. Not to mention stops to warm myself in cosy little mountain bars where the men were as rugged as the landscape. On a motoring trip, the stops are always the highlights. After such an experience, where the white and shiny grey are seemingly never-ending, the moment the sun comes out to shine on your glowing face is like an epiphany. Mine was the sight of the most beautiful hotel to ever grace the edges of Lake Geneva – the Beau Rivage Palace Hotel just stood before me, shimmering out of the great body of water like a wet mirage.
Anne Sophie Pic, the chef ’s chef, was the first woman to be awarded three Michelin stars at the tender age of 37 and elected ‘Chef of the Year’ by the 8,000 chefs in the Michelin Guide. She was still dusting the tables at her new restaurant when I crunched my way noisily into the hotel car park. Still, the café was open – it would have to suffice. And it certainly does. On a Sunday afternoon, the Café Lausanne was packed with the extremely posh families living in the area. To the Maltese, any Swiss person with their French-German twangs may seem posh, but the Beau Rivage is such an institution, both local and international, that having lunch here is like dining at The Ritz without the Russians and the Saudis. The lobster salad was stratospherically good, fresh, simple and very well executed. The chips that accompanied the main were fat, square cut, crisp on the outside and fluffy inside. The steak came from some ecstatic cow. The dessert-trolley was old-style and just wonderfully replete with every single sinful sweet known to man (and even more, woman): it took me a full ten minutes to choose, at which point I suggested to the very patient maitre d’ that it would be best if he just gave up too and gave me little bits of everything: the tarts oozing fruit and custard, the profiteroles gushing chocolate and cream, the mousses of everything, the berries dipped in chocolate. I was ecstatic. The rooms in the hotel reflect this general finesse – decked out in the chicest materials, the soft furnishings are fashioned in a very modern, yet classical style. Both periods come together to form a very organic kind of fusion where the customer feels absolutely at home, yet not at home enough that the cushions on the sofas are scuffed or un-plumped. The atmosphere feels as if there are hundreds of invisible fairies constantly cleaning up after you and blowing away every single stray hair from surfaces. September 2010 FM –– 53
COOL ROOMS
“Sofas are important at the Beau Rivage, for the simple reason that these are rooms with a seriously gorgeous view that demand you sit down.”
Bittersweet symphony Life is a box of chocolate and chestnut truffles. You need: 75 g butter 100g dark chocolate 50 g milk chocolate 180 g sweet chestnut puree 40 g icing sugar 3 drops orange blossom water
To decorate 2 tsp almond slivers 3 tsp chocolate streusel 1 tsp coloured hundreds and thousands 3 tsp chocolate chips 1 tsp icing sugar
Method Sofas are important at the Beau Rivage, for the simple reason that these are rooms with a seriously gorgeous view of Lake Geneva; the kind of view that demands you sit down and pay your respects. Like a very generous (but stylish) mama, the town itself is constructed over three hills, draped with vineyard-covered slopes all around, and the huge body of glistening water at its feet. Opposite, on a good day, you can see the Savoy Alps. Not bad for a wake-up call. Most of the town’s meandering alleys and twee shops is thankfully car-free. After a bracing walk around it and some stockpiling of chocolate (essential for the journey as any longhaul motorist will tell you), I crunch my way out of the Beau Rivage car-park, past cars so expensive that a normal human being would need to take out a mortgage to afford them, and out on the well-built roads which sadly take me, and the taste of that chocolate ganache still nestling on my tongue, away. FM 54 –– FM September 2010
Melt the butter and both types of chocolate in a bain-marie. Stir in the chestnut puree, sugar and orange blossom water until the mixture is creamy. Refrigerate for 24 hours until the truffle mixture sets. Toast the almond slivers until light brown. Chop and place on a plate. Mix the streusel and hundreds and thousands and place on a second plate. Place the chocolate chips on a third plate. Shape the truffle mixture into little balls, the size of a nut. Toss in the different decorations. Finally, dust the truffles with icing sugar and keep in a cool place until ready to serve.
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CHEMISTRY SUPPLEMENTARY BOOST Nearly all nutrients are involved in maintaining a healthy immune system. Often, excessive amounts of a particular nutrient are just as harmful as insufficient amounts. A complete, balanced diet is often the best way to keep the immune system in tip top shape. However, it may sometimes be appropriate to take vitamins, minerals, or other dietary supplements in order to boost your immune system.
ECHINACEA Echinacea has been used for centuries to treat common colds, coughs and other respiratory tract infections. There are many different species of echinacea – the main species used in echinacea formulations is the echinacea purpurea.
Beating the bugs Summer is almost over, and as cold spells grab us by the throat, we resort to popping pills. Yet there are much simpler cures, says Anne Marie Spiteri. very time our little island steals a mention on the international news circuit, the patriotic core inside me throbs with emotion. The features which make me blush with pride are abundant. Yet, especially of late, we are often discussed for less flattering reasons. Unhappily, one topic which we invariably star in is antibiotic abuse.
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Malta boasts one of the highest rates of antibiotic consumption within the European Union. While a barrage of educational campaigns has improved the situation, our reckless yet resilient love affair with the wonder drugs continues. The subject is becoming topical once again as yet another summer draws to an end. The warm season caresses us with feelings of relaxation and wellbeing, and our passion for pill-popping somewhat wanes. However, as al fresco diners and partygoers quietly move indoors, sore throats and colds make a comeback and our passion for pills flares up again. The problem does not lie with antibiotics. These drugs are indispensable and have saved countless lives since their discovery. The trouble is that they are completely useless against all colds and most sore throats. These annoying ailments are caused by viruses, while antibiotics attack bacteria. Unnecessary use of antibiotics harms the body and stimulates the evolutionary battle, with the strongest, most destructive bacteria emerging victorious, in true Darwinian style. Those who insist that antibiotics always cure their sniffles should rest assured that munching on a handful of fruit pastilles will achieve the same outcome, at a much lesser cost. The good thing about many common viral infections is that they are self-limiting, and resolve
without treatment over a number of days. In these situations, medication can be taken to alleviate the symptoms, rather than cure the illness. This is where anti-inflammatory and antiseptic gargles, soothing lozenges, nasal decongestants, and analgesics take centre stage. Drinking lots of fluids, keeping warm, and taking it easy all help to ensure a speedy recovery. Regrettably, when you are forced to drag yourself through the day in a hazy delirium, with a crimson nose and a prickly throat, these good tidings are of little comfort. What every person wants – bar a certain category of attention seekers and the exceptionally lazy – is to never fall ill at all. This is impossible. However, ushering in disease-causing organisms through an open door can be avoided by taking some simple measures. These include frequent, careful hand washing, as well as permanently kicking the habit of continuously touching the eyes, nose, or mouth. A complete, balanced diet, abundant in fresh fruit and vegetables, is the foundation of a healthy immune system, which helps to stave off infections. In some cases, vitamins or other dietary supplements may also be of assistance in preventing, or sometimes treating, infections. It is inevitable that one time or another, the pesky little microbes will somehow make their way in. When this happens, no matter how miserable you feel, avoid bullying your doctor or pharmacist into handing over antibiotics or other medicines which they do not deem necessary. Trust them, and lay back and rest. Ask yourself what would happen if accountants were to suddenly start designing buildings and if lawyers were to fly aeroplanes. The answer, I suspect, is complete chaos and bad publicity for Malta. FM
Echinacea should be used as a treatment which is commenced at the onset of symptoms, and should not be taken prophylactically. It is also sometimes taken during the change of season – however, it should not normally be taken continuously for long periods of time. While some studies showed no benefit, other studies have shown that echinacea reduces the severity of symptoms and decreases the duration of the illness. However, more studies need to be carried out to provide further evidence of benefit.
VITAMIN C Unlike echinacea, Vitamin C does not seem to be of any significant benefit when it is taken after the onset of symptoms. The value of Vitamin C is in prophylaxis – when it is taken before the onset of symptoms it has been shown to decrease the duration of the illness. Vitamin C was also found to cause a significant reduction in the risk of developing a cold when it was given to athletes and soldier exposed to extreme cold. Vitamin C supplements abound. However, there are also plenty of foods which are rich in Vitamin C, including blackcurrants, strawberries, citrus fruit, peppers, brussels sprouts, and broccoli.
MULTIVITAMIN PREPARATIONS Nutritional deficiency, which is most likely to occur in children and the elderly, is associated with decreased immunity. In these cases, a supplement containing a range of vitamins and minerals may help to boost the immune system. In studies carried out using multivitamin and mineral preparations, an enhanced immune response and a decrease in common infections was observed in children, elderly people, and in people suffering from Type 2 diabetes mellitus. These supplements should contain beta carotene, Vitamins B6, B12, C, D, E, folic acid, as well as minerals such as zinc and iron.
September 2010 FM –– 57
LAST WORD
Playing for a draw Christina Darmanin sees fashion as painting in motion.
I’m currently reading Philosophy, Theology, History of Art, Entrepreneurship and Marketing Management at Durham University, UK.
Photo by Chris Saint Fournier
I love the world of fashion and have modelled for Miss Summer International in Malta and participated in other fashion shows. For me, fashion is the making of wearable, mobile poetry. Fashion is visual verses that you carry around with you. Clothes and accessories - they are an artistic expression using coloured fabrics and patterns which feel good on their own and when worn. Perhaps fashion could be defined as painting in motion. Design is my way of being creative and innovative. Nature is my main inspiration, especially bird feathers and beehive textures. I have fond memories of the wardrobe I had when I was a little girl. Rather than the contents, it’s the wardrobe itself that was unique - a vintage piece of furniture with the coolest keyhole and a large, heavy key. Nowadays, my wardrobe is more eclectic. It is a magical array of colour and a curious mix of hand-me-downs, men’s dinner jackets and vintage collectibles. The most expensive item I have ever bought is a pair of Pinko wooden platforms in Florence. Then there’s my…wait, I had better keep that a secret. All the clothes I make and hand-paint have an individual story tailored specifically to inspire and embrace the wearer. A person makes an outfit all the way. You could wear a garbage bag and still look stunning. It’s all about the way you project your inner self - the feeling inside always creates the beauty outside. One of my goals for this year is to finish a collection for a fashion show I am organising and designing for Trevelyan College in conjunction with the Fine Arts Society in Durham. FM 58 –– FM September 2010
Zachary Street
VALLETTA
Naxxar Road
BIRKIRKARA
Arkadia
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