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Issue 17 May 2015. Family grapes and wine production Book 1: The cellarer’s log
We present: among distributors most playful and most charming being
IN THE SPOTLIGHT: gastronomy of BraÄ?
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Editor’s word Content
Announcements..................................................... 4 • Gourmet kid • Ludbreg wine route: Open cellars day Novosti................................................................... 6 • Johann Franck in the area of Gradska kavana (City cafe) • Perfectly chilled Žuja’s new thermal label • Good restaurants for 2015. have been announced • Bolfan Vinski vrh - ecological oeno gastro destination Events.................................................................. 14 • Wine Garden & Beer Fest • 22nd Vinistra has finished • 2nd Dubrovnik FestiWine • 6th Dalmacija Wine Expo • Wine Spring Break Photo Report........................................................ 23 • Lošinj Gastro walk Winery Ratings..................................................... 32 • Winery Korta Katarina Reviews................................................................ 34 • PP Orahovica, silvanac zeleni, 2013 • Rogić, traminer, 2011 • Vineda Cellar, graševina, 2013 Introducing............................................................ 37 • Book 1: The cellarer’s log • Marija Rimac, Vinolicious • Hotel 8, restoran Otok • Tavern Kopačina Column................................................................. 48 • Unknown travelogues: Winery Bolfan Vinski vrh • Wine wanderings: “Medium category” tasting Gastronomy.......................................................... 52 • Adriatic Sea lost two giants • Pig business • Mario Valentić i Zlatko Horvat confirmed: „Less is more“ G.E.T. Report is herald of table culture association G.E.T. and it is free of charge for all interested in treated topics.
Another issue of G.E.T. Report is in front of you. This time, in a slightly larger number of pages and this is because from now on we will be published once a month. Whether only during the summer or we will continue this way also in autumn, we haven’t decided yet. We bring you a few interesting presentations. Firstly, we have two buildings on the island of Brač that you will surely like to visit when you read what we are writing about them. We’re also introducing Mare Rimac, a young woman in the world of wine. Cellarer’s log is our friend Jovica Nikšić’s new book, so all who deal with winemaking at home, a bit or seriously, it is a text for you. Off the news, we surely must mention the reopening of Gradska Kavana in Zagreb, which got new looks and new name too. And what we are very proud of – by naming Monty, the first calf of Red Angus line born on Bolfan Vinski Vrh, we have become associated with this estate as godfathers, so we bring you complete presentation of biodynamic estate Bolfan Vinski Vrh. There were a lot of events. We tried to be on the most important ones and we bring you reports from those. Columns of our Maja and Matej are here too, interesting and educational texts from an entirely different angle. We are also bringing back wine reviews column, but now for you Nina Levičnik writes that. In gastronomy we especially highlight Pig business and Dentex. We’re announcing Opened Cellars day in Ludbreg and we hope you will be able to check out what are Ludbreg wine route wineries like yourself. In particular, I want to announce a new rubric Gourmet kid. Tomislava - Tommy will write about chefs and restaurants that she visited, a bit about hotels and foodstuff ... In fact, she will write about the culinary scene, but from child’s perspective. We believe that this will help many kids but also their parents. Untill next issue, big G.E.T. greetings! Tomislav Stiplošek
Editors: Tomislav Stiplošek, Silvija Munda Issue associates: Nina Levičnik, Tomislava Akrap, Maja Komarčević, Matej Rotim Marketing i preparations: Redaction Graphic preparation: Bojan Samardžić Cover: Rožata (Foto: Helena Pletković)
Think! Drinking alcohol and other alcoholic beverages is prohibited to minors (under legal drinking age). Consumption of alcoholic beverages impairs your ability to drive a car or operate machinery, and may cause health problems. G.E.T. | 3
Gourmet kid With next issue G.E.T. Report will have a new section, intended for parents and children. In particular, we emphasize it, because.. Not only it is intended for parents and children, but it is about a column where texts will be written by – a child. Thinking of how to introduce the author, we have concluded that she’ll do that the best by herself. Why me? My name is Tomislava Akrap, known as Tomislava- Tommy. I am Silvija Munda’s daughter and Tomislav Stiplošek’s granddaughter. Why is that important? Here’s why: because they are G.E.T. Report. My mother and grandfather always take me along with them, introdouce me to winemakers, restaurant owners and kitchen chefs and they show and tell me about interesting things. I started to get interested in all these things. So I myself began to explore the interesting world of gastronomy. My first experience was when I was cooking ve-
getable muffins, chicken skewers and preparing ice cream with Chef Berislav Lacković from restaurant Bon Appetit, and we were filming it all for the show G.E.T. Report. Later I met Časlav Matijević, Rene Bakalović and Loreena Meda, with whom I’ve been in the jury at Panorama Pizza Cup. They’re great to me because they talked to me a lot and taught me a lot. Rene Bakalović especially. I can say that he has become a real friend to me. Right now, perhaps, I like Mario Čepek’s kitchen the most, probably because he makes the best cakes. They are extremely tasty. I also love Karlo Navoj’s kitchen on Plešivica, he has the best bread I’ve ever seen. As I travel with my family, that’s how I have tried a lot of
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things. Let’s say šurlice and pljukanci... I also tried various fish. For instance, I loved Maja and Tonka’s platter while they still existed. It was a small restaurant in Korčula. They had great fish pates. I love cakes from Cukarin, Ms. Smilja is awesome. I adore, for an example, a pizza from O’Hara, it’s really cool. I tried a lot of prosciutto, but Dujmović’s one from Istria is the best. And like this... I learned a lot about that subject. Not to forget, a great ice cream is in Medenko from Samobor but also the one from Gelati D’oro in Krk is great. I learned that we should try everything from my mom and Tomica. What doesn’t look very nice at first glance, try it, maybe it’s tasty, and what you didn’t like once, try it again at another place and only then make your judgment. So I’m going to start writing my small columns about food and restaurants. Maybe that way I can help you adults in the decision where to take your child and maybe I will help children to taste what they have not tried yet. My column will be called Gourmet Kid. P.S. I’m just a kid, and sometimes I like to go to McDonald’s for a hamburger (don’t tell this to anyone).
Ludbreg wine route: Open cellars day We all know that Ludbreg is center of the world and we all heard for Ludberga, and Ludberga always had her own wine - so meet wines from the Centre of the world - visit Ludbreg on 06/13/2015. and walk through the wine route. Wineries Kežman, Kirić, Kišić, Makar, Stručić and restaurant Črn - Bel open their doors and invite you to present their wines to you.
Be sure to try to get a Wine passport of Ludbreg; visit all the wineries and take part in the contest. G.E.T. | 5
Johann Franck in the area of G In cooperation with its partners, Franck completed a new concept of Gradska kavana, which also gets a new name - Johann Franck. As announced at the end of last year, this is one of the strategic projects of the company which was launched through the model of joint lease of Franck and Auto Zubak. The goal of Johann Franck project is „revival” of Gradska kavana and importance it once enjoyed as the center of the social life of Zagreb, but also in the spirit of modern times. Johan Franck’s program content will be led by tested team with Tomo Ricov onward.
The entertainment and cultural content will include „live” concert performances, exhibitions, book promotions and festivals, screenings of classic films and cabaret program that the audience once followed exactly in cafes. „Revitalization of Gradska kavana, due to its location and rich history, is a major challenge. We believe that the activities that we have created will not only restore old glory of Gradska Kavana, but also turn it into a popular meeting place for all generations of coffee, good food, good music and fun lovers, all in line with that real Zagreb touch „, explained Tomo Ricov. In ground coffee offer, how it is prepared in the household and exclusive „specialty” coffees from different countries of growing As a part of Johann Franck, Franck is stronger in a position with a program devoted to the further development and fostering of culture of coffee drinking and rituals of preparation. That’s why Johann Franck is imagined as a place where the true coffee lovers can find out interesting facts about coffee as well as coffee journey „from the grain to the cup”, and for the top espresso, Franck professional baristas will take care of.
Cafe, bstro and lounge bar with attractive programme The new concept is based on the revitalization of the original identity and status of Gradska kavana as the outline of the social life of the city in 30-ies of the last century, when it was a popular meeting place of cultural, artistic and political circles of that time. Johan Franck will serve caffe’s, pastry shop’s, bistro’s and lounge bar’s offer to the visitors. Pastry shop will occupy part on the ground floor, cafe is on the ground floor and first floor, while on the top floor, bistro with kitchen of semi-opened type, which will offer a selection of traditional Zagreb dishes in a new way under the baton of master chef Mate Janković, who will work with OPG’s of Zagreb County, with a focus on organic foods. 6 | G.E.T.
The rich and diverse world of Franck coffee will
Gradska kavana (City cafe)
also present through the offer of the exclusive „specialty” coffees from different „origins” regarding cultivation countries, of which each has its own characteristics in flavor, smell and taste. Guests will be able to taste these coffees, but also buy to prepare at home in Johann Franck Store, which will with a diverse selection of Franck coffee, also offer interesting items related to coffee and coffee preparation.
Johann Franck will be special also by the fact that guests will be able to enjoy home like prepared ground coffee in several different ways of preparation
- in the traditional manner in a coffee pot, French Press, Caffettiera and filter device. As a leading manufacturer of coffee on the Croatian market, Franck is dedicated to the development of culture of coffee drinking, the rituals of preparing and true enjoyment of coffee and strengthening of the perception and image of coffee as some kind of social connection. Johann Franck project is a logical continuation of the story, which leans on a rich history of Zagreb and culture and the importance of Zagreb cafes in whose center is exactly tradition and custom of drinking coffee, which here represents a part of the cultural heritage. In this idea we base our program in Johann Franck that was designed as a place in which will be able to have a superb espresso prepared with the signature of our professional baristas. We are very pleased that, as the Zagreb-based company with a long history, in this way we participate in the revitalization of this cult Zagreb location, „said Ivan Artuković, board member of Franck.
Photo: Helena Pletković, Silvija Munda
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Perfectly chilled summer with Žuja’s new thermal label At the premiere of Žuja’s new advertising campaign videos a real star was discovered that connects Spielberg, Hitchcock and Cameron - Thermal label, the biggest surprise of Žuja’s season. Towards the upcoming summer heat and swelter, Ožujsko beer presented the main innovation of this summer beer season in the popular beerhouse „Pivana”. Gathered journalists were presented a unique thermal label which shows when favorite Žuja is ideal for consumption. Thermal label was presented by the creative director of the marketing agency BBDO Almir Okanović and Rene Bitorajac, one of the famous Žuja characters, and Marketing director of Zagreb Brewery Darko Ivančević, who on the occasion of stated: „Ožujsko beer is the leading domestic beer brand known for its long tradition of impeccable quality of beer, but as well as continuous investment in research, development and product innovation. One of these innovations is just this thermosetting label, which will provide the perfectly cold summer with ideal chilled Žuja to beer lovers. „
Ožujsko beer is being brewed in Zagreb brewery, for already 120 years. The origin of the name comes from the word „Ožujak” (March) the third month of the year, which traditionally produced the best lager beer, from whose family arrives Ožujsko beer. Ožujsko beer is the only Croatian beer with a nickname. Acquaintances are called by a name, and only friends are nicknamed. We call Ožujsko beer - Žuja.
The event is also spiced with the premiere presentation of television videos designed by a team of marketing agency BBDO, led by Almir Okanović. With creative work, the cult blockbusters by famous directors Steven Spielberg, Alfred Hitchcock and James Cameron were refreshed on Žuja’s way which will bring closer the main innovation of this season to all beer drinkers and they will certainly have a good time. The lead roles were given to already known Žuja characters Rene Bitorajac, Goran Bogdan and Goran Navojec, who truly gotten into the act of well known scenes to all of us from movie hits. This summer, new Thermal label and can will change the culture of enjoying in favorite beer for all Žuja lovers. Thanks to special technology of thermosetting ink COLD EDGE which reacts to temperature, label is gradually changing color from white to blue during the beer cooling and signalize to the consumer that the beer is ideally chilled. The label will be applied to glass bottles and cans of favorite Žuja. According to this Žuja prognosis, perfectly chilled summer and ideal chilled Žuja with the inevitable Thermal label is expected in the whole Croatia.
Photo: Helena Pletković, Silvija Munda 8 | G.E.T.
Good restaurants for 2015. have been announced Selection of the best Croatian restaurants is being held since 2012. The organizers have formed a professional jury of five hundred voters from all over Croatia. These are restaurateurs, chefs, wine and gastro journalists and bloggers, business people, tourism professionals and winemakers from all over Croatia. In fact, regular restaurant visitors. „There is only one condition and that is total satisfaction, respectively happiness index after leaving the restaurant.”- Saša Špiranec said, who is one of the organizers of this project.
The possibility that the overall assessment will be impact by elements such as level of investment in the renovation of the facility or media reputation of certain chefs is being avoided by criteria. In 2014, with national winners and wine friend restaurant they added another category: The chef of the year. 100 top Croatian chefs were selecting the best one among themselves.
2015. Results were released at a ceremony on 5/11/2015, and here are top 5 Croatian restaurants: 1. Pelegrini, Šibenik 2. Mala hiža, Mačkovec 3. Dubravkin put, Zagreb 4. Bevanda, Opatija 5. Plavi podrum, Volosko
5 top wine friends: 1. Dubravkin put, Zagreb 2. Plavi podrum, Volosko 3. Bistro Apetit, Zagreb 4. Bevanda, Opatija 5. Vinodol, Zagreb Top chef is Tom Gretić Individual lists can be found on the website www. dobri-restorani.hr, and a review of the best Croatian restaurants is collected in the guide that it is available in free sale. Photo: Helena Pletković G.E.T. | 9
Bolfan Vinski vrh - ecologic In 2006.-th year winery Bolfan Vinski Vrh (HraĹĄÄ?ina, Croatian Zagorje) was opened. From the very beginning they are directed towards ecological and biodynamic cultivation of grapes and production of wine and food, and ultimately in self-sufficiency of biodynamic estate Bolfan Vinski Vrh.
As a date of achievement of this goal we can take the date 01/31/2015., when little Monty was born on the property Bolfan Vinski Vrh. He is the first calf of Red Angus breed born on the estate. Buying cows of Red Angus breed, directly from the herd of one of the most famous Croatian winemakers Mr. Ivan Enjingi because of preparation of natural compost to enrich the soil structure, is an important step in achieving the production towards the biodynamic principles.
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Biodynamic wines BOLFAN were also recognized by foreign market. It is interesting fact that the macerated (4 days in a wooden barrel) Bolfan Primus Orange Pinot Sivi from 2012., produced in 3600 bottles was fully redeemed by the British company Marks and Spencer. While Bolfan wines overwhelms Croatian and foreign market, the absolute recognition of these principles through enjoying the beautiful nature and rich variety of biodynamic products (without artificial breeding and artificial NPK fertilizers, antibiotics and similar additives) therefore, biodynamic grown food that pairs perfectly with Biodynamic BOLFAN wines, needs to be experienced at the estate Bolfan Vinski Vrh.
The estate is open to all wine lovers who can and are always welcome to tour the estate, to the wine tasting, getting to know their philosophy of production of top wines and educational seminars, or just to enjoy this oasis of total and relaxing peace. In the wine cottage Bolfan one can even spend the night in one of five double beds, exclusively furnished rooms.
cal oeno gastro destination By giving the name to Monty, the first calf of Red Angus line born at Bolfan Vinski Vrh, G.E.T. members have become associated with this property as godfathers. On this occasion, the visit and presentation of complete biodynamic estate Bolfan Vinski Vrh has been organized for journalists.
On Bolfan Vinski vrh, journalists were greeted by property owner Tomislav Bolfan, manager of the winery Branimir Puškadija and enologists Irena Žugec, they organized a tasting of their ecological and biodynamic products - food from the estate Bolfan Vinski Vrh and nearby estates and biodynamic Bolfan wines. During the tour of the estate, journalists had the opportunity to see biodynamic manure from horn (which was buried last year around Miholje and excavated this year before Easter) and even smell it. Manure is of compact structure, and smells of a rich, natural, forest floor.
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Wine tasting: 1. Sparkling Wine Centurion Silver - of white varieties from all estates’ hillsides
8. Macerated Traminer without the addition of sulfur; a wine that is not yet on the market, and very likely will not even go into distribution, but will be able to taste in the special occasions on Vinski Vrh.
2. Rose Pinot Noir 2014 3. Pinot Gris 2014 – premiere tasting 4. Sauvignon Blanc 2014 – premiere tasting
5. Noir Pinot Primus 2011 6. Rhine Riesling 2012, cultivated on its own yeasts
7. Pinot Gris 2013
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Tomislav Bolfan referred to the harvest of 2014, with which many winegrowers and winemakers dissatisfied. Bolfan says that wines, of which some are already on the market, but some are still waiting to enter the bottle, somewhat lighter and lower alcohol than in previous years and that he is pleased with the results.
Food tasting: 1. Zagorski štrukli with cheese whose cheese and cream are from OPG Piki, while a plate was decorated with apple chips they do themselves, acacia honey from OPG Grobotek and nuts 2. Veal rolls of Angus line from OPG Vanjek stuffed with vegetables and pine nuts in a sauce of pear, mint, basil and chive with steamed vegetables of EKO Sever.
The strongest about it, which is really, biodynamic production and what is the role of natural manure, is most likely said in the next sentence:
3. Deboned chicken from OPG Sabolić filled with Mlinci from whole spelt grain which chef of Vinski Vrh, Krešo makes himself, in blueberry sauce. Freshly picked lettuce from ecological home cultivation.
„Tradition, nature and science teach us how to grow plants with pleasure, without the use of harmful substances that do not respect the natural and nutritional balance. In order to preserve nature and protect human and animal health, through a safe and healthy work environment, produce eco-bio-dynamic wine without going into the intimate relationship of Mother Nature, and provide our vines all they need for a healthy diet, we prepare biodynamic preparations with which we give energy to the soil that help plants to stay healthy. „
4. Vegetable stew (vegetables from EKO Sever); kohlrabi, celery, parsley, carrots, kale, leeks ... - the ideal refreshment after a tour of the estate
With food were also offered delicious oils, and especially proudly presented cold-pressed grape seed oil from Pinot Noir.
Photo: Helena Pletković G.E.T. | 13
Wine Garden & Beer Fest
Author: Tomislav Stiplošek Photo: Helena Pletković, Silvija Munda
If someone asks you what is common to Mario Meštrović and Domagoj Jakopović Ribafish, on first you’d find several relations, such as that both are well-known in gastro world, both are sommeliers, however one is wine, and another one is beer sommelier ... There’s probably more relations, but I am interested in the fact that they were both hosts of some events in Zagreb Garden Mall.
Mario Meštrović was the first to have the role of host, because the first event was a small, etremely nice wine fair where, it needs to be said, complete logistic was done by Oeno Experts team, led by Miodrag Hruškar. Perfectly imagined little fair with about 10 winemakers, some prosciutto and cheese and a few other delicacies. The team from Electrolux took care of small gastro workshops. Organizers perfectly mixed several well-known wineries and a few new ones. So we were able to taste some of the well-known wines, but also explore tastes of some quite new a bit. The host, Mario Meštrović, represented the exhibitors one by one, which is good for the visitors, especially if the fair is sales fair as this one. I have to admit that the fair was visited more than I expected. Obviously people are eager 14 | G.E.T.
of this kind of small events where the profession is still somewhat adapted to customers. Here they can relatively quickly visit all the stands, taste a bit and decide to buy. It should be noted that the prices were quite ok. The audience obviously pleased, like winemakers who were present, all in all extremely positive atmosphere, and that’s the most important thing.
Seven days later in the same space, the role of host was taken over by Domagoj Jakopović Ribafish. Of course, you guessed it, this time it’s about beers and not just any beers - the organizers have managed to bring together the creme de la creme of domestic craft beer scene. Fair somewhat similar to the wine one, but yet totally different. To know what
kind of beers this is about, beer knowledge, or at least interest, you should go a little further than Ĺ˝uja and KarlovaÄ?ko. You will be able to learn something more about beers in our following issues because we will be a bit more into them. Daruvar brewery (the only one which was, of those present, known to a wider audience) presented its new product, beer 5. Element - great beer that you first have to smell because it is pure spring in a glass. Of course there was also San Servolo from Buje, which surprised me with its new label and by beer of limited production. We should also mention the team from Belgrade with their beer brand Visibaba. You could
try there somewhat famous brand Zmajsko beer, which is definitely a beer for epicures. However, my favorite is still Nova Runda. Behind the brand stands a team that enjoys what they do, they play a bit with tastes and produces (to me) a fantastic beer. Unfortunately, it still isn’t in the bottle, but only on tap, but what can we do. The beer scene is becoming more and more interesting and richer. My guess is that a big beer ascent will happen soon as it was with the wine.
Finally, praise to the organizers - they were able to make two great events. We look forward to the next ones.
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22nd Vinistra has finished In Poreč sports hall Žatika from 8th to 10th May, 22.nd exhibition of wine and winemaking equipment was held - Vinistra, which on this occasion brought together about 120 exhibitors and about 10,000 visitors who had the opportunity to taste the wines of Istrian winemakers, but also wines from several guest regions. One of the novelties of this year’s Vinistra is free entry for administrators of Ho.Re.Ca. sector and other professionals of the wine industry.
Cerebral Palsy Association of Istria County was selling wines that held IQ mark, within the humanitarian action named Zaplivajmo zajedno (let’s swim together) whose goal is to provide children suffering from cerebral palsy quality vision of rehabilitation through continuous swimming throughout the year.
The program of Vinistra from Friday to Sunday was marked by a few lectures and workshops interesting to winemakers and vine-growers, but also to all visitors – among others, Teran tasting who also drew the question of prohibited use of the name Teran to Croatian producers, tasting of Istrian champagnes Misal dedicated to the recently deceased Giordano Peršurić and presentation of French champagnes. The gastronomic part of the exhibition in which gastronomy combines with exhibitors members’ wine yet traditionally was marked along with performances of Istrian restaurants chefs, by guests from the Netherlands, chef Leon Mazairac from restaurant Podium Onder de Doom and Rene` Koelman from dairy Bourgundisch Lifestyle, but finale was given to specialists of Mediterranean cuisine, Dalmatian guests Braco Sanjin, Zlatko Gall and Hrvoje Zirojević. 16 | G.E.T.
Programming part of the exhibition was completed with traditional memorial Show Must Go On dedicated to Andrija Šipetić Demian, one of the initiators of this idea which for the seventh time pairs Istrian Biska and Cuban cigars. Vinistra has stepped in Poreč restaurants this year too, throughout now traditional event called Friends of Vinistra. During the event, Poreč caterers offered menus with Vinistra exhibitors’ wines and wines at promotional prices to guests. Vinistra and the City of Poreč offer an opportunity to Vinistra visitors to enjoy in oeno-gastronomic events in the whole town.
2nd Dubrovnik FestiWine Dubrovnik-Neretva County and County Development Agency DUNEA in cooperation with agency Dubrovnik PartneR, satisfied with the results of the first regional festival of wine Dubrovnik FestiWine, have organized the second one this year, and they hope, proud that festival holds sponsorship of the president of the Republic of Croatian Kolinda Grabar Kitarović, that it will become a traditional spring event in Dubrovnik. Program of Dubrovnik FestiWine lasted all week so called Dubrovnik wine setemena (week) offered indigenous varieties of wines and special menus in the restaurants of Dubrovnik during the whole week, and the central wine exhibition, where a number of Dubrovnik-Neretva County wines could have been tasted, was held on Friday and Saturday, April 24th and 25th. Wine evaluation was also held within the event, and above all the others, Plavac Mali Pomet 2012
of Crvik winery took the victory. Among the white wines, the best evaluated was Greek Cebalo 2013 of producer Branimir Cebalo. Thirty-eight samples of wines arrived to the evaluation, of which seven were white, two pink and twenty nine red wines, which were evaluated by an international jury. Compared to last year, the wines were evaluated in a better way, and the general comment was of evaluators as it moved on, especially with Plavac Mali. Sixteen gold medals were awarded, of which twelve red and four white wines, twelve silver medals, of which three white wines, two pink wines, seven red wines, and nine bronze, all for red wines. Organizers are pleased with the results this year as well and they say: „We’re already starting with preparations for Dubrovnik FestiWine 2016. Cheers!”
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6th Dalmacija Wine Expo Festival with two addresses - Radisson Blu Hotel, Split 04/24-04/25 and Kačić square in Makarska 05/01-05/02 offered more than 450 wine labels from all over Croatia. In Split, mostly professionals socialized, and in Makarska in the format of a late afternoon and evening program, enjoying in wine and entertainment content was offered to wider audience. This year’s Dalmatia Wine Expo in Split, Radisson Blu, 24th and 25th April gathered about 450 wine labels from all over Croatia in the presence of about a hundred winemakers. Winemakers primarily presented themselves to business public because Split part of the festival is intended just for them - distributors, importers, sommeliers, chefs, journalists, opinion makers. On the list of accredited visitors there were over 300 people who were with the ability to taste the wine in peace and talk with the winemakers directly, able to visit numerous workshops. During two days, six workshops and on Friday, 04/05 in six renowned Split restaurants gourmet dinners were held. Those are by name Kadena, Zrno Soli, Bokeria, Paradigma, Adriatic Grašo, Caper Grill of Radisson Blu Hotel.
Jennifer Docherty, general buyer of British distribution company Liberty which is specialized in HoReCa market visited Festival in Split. Ms. Docherty recently received the title of Master of Wine, the most prestigious award for wine professionals. She attended Dalmatia wine expo due to interest that Croatian wines join Liberty portfolio. 18 | G.E.T.
As one of the lecturers at the workshop, Miquel Hudin presented himself to Croatian audience, he began his winemaking career in the winery of Oscar winner Francis Ford Coppola in late 90’s, at the historic Inglenook estate. In 2007, after extensive travels throughout the Balkan Peninsula he has launched a series of tourist guides Vinologue whose goal is to make wine the purpose of tourist travel. He currently resides in Barcelona where he writes for various websites and publications, evaluates wines and works as a regional wine consultant.
From Italian side, Roberto Bartolomeo Lepori arrived, a member of Italian Sommelier Association and a journalist for some of the best Italian wine specialized magazines such as Bibenda and Vitae. There were more American distributors at the festival and about 40 representatives of Serbian media. During these two days, Split part of the festival was visited by about 1,500 visitors while in Makarska with wine and music socialized over 3,500 of them.
We especially highlight interesting and educational workshops, of which the Perfect Match workshop is the one we wouldn’t miss out for anything. We present an overview of held workshops below. Lectures by Saša Špiranec and Nina Levičnik were especially interesting, but fun approach of Taste of Croatia as well, that every time brings something new. However, one should not neglect workshops with across the border view… Perfect Match, Andrej Barbieri & Saša Špiranec With dishes that Master Chef Andrej Barbieri prepared, restaurant owners, sommeliers and media representatives evaluated wines through their blending with typical representatives of Dalmatian cuisine
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Winners by sequences are: Sequence 1: GRABOVAC BRUT N/V & Burrata and Gambero Rosso raw Sequence 2: JAREC KURE PINOT BIJELI 2013 & Swordfish Carpaccio with salad and orange
Wines: 1. Kaštela, Vuina, Plavac mali, barrique 2012. 2. Brač, Senjković, Bosso 2012. 3. Brač, Stina, plavac mali, Majstor 2012.
Sequence 3: CRVIK MALVASIA DUBROVAČKA TEZORO 2013 & Capesante with potatoes and truffles
4. Hvar, Vujnović, Ivan Dolac 2012.
Sequence 4: BIBICH R6 RISERVA 2013 & Guinea fowl Ravioli in its own sauce
6. Hvar, Zlatan plavac Grand cru 2012.
Sequence 5: KORLAT BELJE 2011 / STINA PLAVAC MALI MAJSTOR 2011 & Black Angus cheek piece and potato polenta. Sequence 6: GRAŠEVINA GALIĆ, ICE WINE 2011 & Little Rab cakes with custard crème.
Potentials of top Plavac’, 2012. Vintage Saša Špiranec The best of Plavac’ selection premiere tasting from regarded positions throughout Dalmatia, because of quality, style and potential estimation for aging of 2012 vintage.
5. Hvar, Tomić, Plavac mali, barrique 2012.
7. Komarna, Rizman, Plavac mali 2012. 8. Komarna, Saints Hills, Sv. Roko 2012. 9. Pelješac, Madirazza, Dingač 2012. 10. Pelješac, Marlais, plavac mali, Škrapa 2012. 11. Pelješac, Skaramuča, Dingač 2012. 12. Pelješac, Saints Hills, Dingač 2012. 13. Pelješac, Korta Katarina, Plavac mali 2012. 14. Pelješac, Bura, Dingač 2012. 15. Pelješac, Goranko Poljanić, Dingač 2012.
Wine and architecture, with a glass of wine, through wine architecture. Nina Levičnik, architect and sommelier The workshop questioned influence and expression of wine architecture to the look and style of wine. The leader gave an overview of wine architecture with selected wine tasting from famous cellars of modern wine architecture.
Foreigners in Dalmatia. Morana Zibar Lada Radin, Goran Zgrablić (Taste of Croatia) On examples from some of the world’s most famous and widespread varieties - such as Chardonnay, Merlot, Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah - the workshop watched how the same acclimated at different locations in Dalmatia. 20 | G.E.T.
Serbia’s wine map. Igor Luković, editor of Wine and fine magazine By retrospective walk through wine regions of Serbia and wine tastings from indigenous and international varieties with strong seal of climate in which they are grown, diversities and potentials of Serbian wines and basic styles from some of the most famous wineries were shown.
Wines: 1. Kovačević brut 2009. Fruška gora 2.Tri Morave 2013. Temet, Jagodinsko vinogorje 3.Graševina 2013. Molovin, Fruška gora - zapad 4. Pinot blanc 2013. Zvonko Bogdan, Subotica 5. Trijumf Gold 2012. Aleksandrović, Šumadija
Catalonia and Dalmatia, similarities and differences. Miquel Hudin, Vinologue Comparative tasting of three successful wines of Catalonia and three wines from Dalmatia seeking for similarities and differences between two historic wine regions was held on the workshop.
6. Vrtlog 2013. Janko, Smederevo 7. Babaroga 2014. Bjelica, Fruška gora - istok 8. Kadarka Fantazija 2011. Tonković, Horgoš 9. Prokupac Ivanović 2012. Župa Aleksandrovačka 10. Sub Rosa 2008. Župa Aleksandrovačka 11. Probus Milanović 2012. Surduk 12. Matalj Kremen 2013. Negotin
Photo: Helena Pletović G.E.T. | 21
Wine Spring Break In Zagreb MOJO bar, in organization by Marin Levaj representing Mojo bar and Miroslav Mirković representing the agency Dalwin, third WINE SPRING BREAK was held, mini wine festival in the open air, on the road. Maybe at first, the story seems a bit strange, but this is one true pristine wine ambience.
I keep hearing how this here should be as in Spain or Portugal and let’s say Italy and so on, and there are a lot of events that are taking place exactly on the streets, because people love that, it somehow symbolizes freedom. There should be more of these events - it’s definitely the right path. There were 18 winemakers at this event and I can say, quite enough. The organizer took effort to bring winemakers from all over the Croatia so people could taste a little bit of everything. As wines didn’t have a charge, the ticket of course had one and there were comments about the price. 90.00 HRK may seem a lot, but ... Where will you be able to try dozen of top wines (and from 36 offered, there were more than 10 top wines) and also have something for a snack (in this case there were cheese and homemade salami, and I think I saw bacon) and enjoy live music (performance of a band called DUOZA consisting of Ivana Giova Radan and Stanislav Kovačić)? When you add it all up, the ticket isn’t so expensive, right? Besides, fine society gathered there (I mean numerically), 22 | G.E.T.
and that this whole team of wine group is ideal for socializing, I don’t need to emphasize in particular. And yes, socializing on the road has a special charm; that must be acknowledged.
According to the wines, Winery Degrassi, Saint Hills, Mladina, Kutjevo, Belje, Volarević, Jakovac, IURIS, Dvanajščak-Kozol, Kos, Cmrečnjak, Ilok wine cellars, Kalazić, Topolovčan, Zdjelarević Vino Selekcija, Tomić,Badel1862 and others were present there. I must admit that Badel story gets better and better. They simply delight me and thanks to
Mirković who once again reminded me of that. So, for street wine gatherings: thumbs up! Those who weren’t there: next time there is no excuse. And yes, I have to say this: ladies and gentlemen from the tourist board, this kind of events should be supported.
Lošinj Gastro walk From 15th to 17th of April 2015 the study socializing of Gastronauti was held in Mali Lošinj to which G.E.T. members were also invited.
Covered professional topics were „ Apoxyomenos antique cuisine”, „Scents and tastes of Lošinj” and „Gastronomic points of Mali Lošinj”.
Our main host was the Tourist Board of Mali Lošinj Town with 15 restaurants in the program Gastronomic walk of Lošinj.
We will try to transfer through photography and text as much detail of what we saw, smelled, tasted, heard and felt...
Co-organizer is company Jadranka Hoteli d.o.o. Lošinj hotels and villas.
Gastro
points of Lošinj
Mali
It’s important to notice: The World Tourism Organization (UNWTO) has awarded Mali Lošinj this year with third place in the world through the prestigious award for excellence in innovation in tourism, Ulysses!
1. Hotel-Restaurant Televrin Hotel Televrin is located in the harbor of a place called Nerezine. It was built in 1910. as a Port Authority and Town Hall in Austro-Hungarian style, and was completely renovated in 2004. Since then, it’s a private hotel with a restaurant. The kitchen offers fresh Mediterranean food and in cart, vegetarian dishes can also be found. With presented authentic cuisine of Nerezin, winery Petrač (sparkling Petrač, Rose and Charisma cuvee) had offered wines. Hotel-Restaurant Televrin was named after mountain Osoršćica summit, Televrin (588m), which is the highest point of Lošinj and provides a breathtaking view of entire Lošinj archipelago, neighboring islands (Rab, Pag) and Istria explained Ferdinando Zorović, co-owner of the restaurant .
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2. Hotel-Restaurant Manora We’re still in Nerezine. Franka and Ronald Spišić on 6000 m2 near Zadar ecologically grow their vegetables so that it, along with fresh fish and island lamb, presents basis of their kitchen. For Gastronauti, they have prepared: Carrot cookies, cake with chocolate and zucchini, zucchini with cinnamon and cranberries compote, pork tenderloin with red onion marmalade and barley malt, fish cookie in tempura and other interesting and tasty Franka’s creations. Wine accompaniment: Top Graševina 2013 of Belje Wines and Mediteran 2011. PZ Svirče.
3. Restaurant Artatore Restaurant Artatore is located at the same place. Janja and Marijan Zabavnik, along with their family, take pride in a long tradition. They stand out with their great culinary creativity in preparing of indigenous meals and affirmation of medicinal, spice and wild island herbs.We were offered various fragranced specialties, including internationally known Janja’s crab soup, but also fig cake and excellent Belgian chocolate that is imported to Croatia by Zvijezda. Specialties were accompanied by wines Silvanac zeleni 2013, PP Orahovica and Ivan Dolac 2008, PZ Svirče.
4. Buffet Lošinjsko
jidro
Jadranka and Ante Marić proudly offered us the specialties of island’s original lamb grown in nature - lamb without stress - in the soup, baked, on Žvacet, and Venecijan... These specialties were accompanied by these wines: Pošip 2013, PZ Svirče and top Pinot Noir 2012. of Vina Belje. 24 | G.E.T.
Walk along seafront of Lošinj captains was next, which is a haven for hedonists looking for research. Tip: If you want to follow our steps, book at least a week on Lošinj. It pays off well! What is common to all the restaurants we visited is towards culinary and authentic, top ingredient. Lošinj is known for its large number of herbs so, therefore it’s understandable that in the kitchen many indigenous spices are used, usually dosed carefully, making meals, not too spicy but pleasantly flavored.
5. Deveron
pub First stop in seafront walk was Deveron Pub, nice and popular restaurant with pleasant atmosphere.
They prepared polenta gnocchi in truffle sauce, asparagus and Tuna tagliata for us, and these specialties were accompanied by Top Chardonnay 2013 Vina Belje and Ivan Dolac 2008 PZ Svirče.
Đurđica Šimičić, director of Tourist Board Mali Lošinj in company of Milanović couple
6. Restaurant Noštromo Fish on the bottle, fish in salt with flavored olive oil, fish tartar, tomato bruschetta, marinated red mullet in Lošinj citrus, rolled octopus... It was only one part of tasty and interesting dishes that were presented to us by Robert Brajković of the restaurant Noštromo.
Wine accompaniment to these Mediterranean specialties were wines PZ Gospoja, Žlahtina 2014 and Gospoja black 2014. and surprise – beer champagne, also PZ Gospoja. G.E.T. | 25
7. Tavern Baracuda Drago Rančić and staff of Baracuda Tavern welcomed us with a good mood and the fruits of the Lošinj sea - Octopus carpaccio, Bonito sashimi, Bonito tartare, Hake terrina, shrimp mousse, raw shrimp, Sea bass fillet boiled in wine, Sea bass on saur and black Cuttlefish brudet with polenta, but soparnik as well - and with wines PZ Gospoja - Žlahtina 2014. and Misno vino
8. Restaurant Za
kantuni
Za kantuni = Around the corner
After a welcome with hemp rakia - a treat - a combination of present and ancient island cuisine. Goat feta cheese with melon, grilled tuna with salted sardine dressing and sea bass fillet in artichokes sauce; olive cake, almond biscuits and fig cooked in red wine. Wine accompaniment: Pinot Gris 2013 PP Orahovica and Karizma Cuvee 2011, Petrač Spices and herbs are extremely important segment of Lošinj’s gastro cuisine so this restaurant is no exception either.
9. Tavern Silvana Specialties of island’s cuisine with Top Graševina 2013 Vina Belje and Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Petrač.
With a number of specialties in which we really enjoyed, the host demonstrated cleaning of a crab. 26 | G.E.T.
10. Restaurant Veli
žal
& Restaurant Dijana
These restaurants are part of the group Jadranka hotels and were mutually presented in restaurant’s Veli Žal space, and here’s what they presented with: Restaurant Veli Žal: Homemade pasta with Boškarin Žgvacet and grated goat cheese, with Frankovka 2012 PP Orahovica
Restaurant Dijana: Smoked tuna fillet on arugula with lemon, honey and olive oil dressing, along with Chardonnay 2013 Vina Belje
11. Restaurant Eki
From its fragrant menu, family Gadža presented a number of dishes to us, from which we were most impressed by the „pot” of many types of meat and vegetables. We drank Silvanac Zeleni and Frankovka PP Orahovica In this series of excellent restaurants, two points from Veli Losinj were included too.
12. Tavern Bora
bar
Menu: Crostini and risotto with porcini mushrooms, with Bogdanuša 2012 and Plavac 2013, both from PZ Svirče
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13. Restaurant Punta Highlights from the menu: Homemade Casarecce with Cres lamb žgvacet. Wine accompaniment: Malvazija 2013 and Teran 2011 of Visintin winery
Gelati d’Oro And to sweeten the story with icecreams - though not from Lošinj but the neighboring island of Krk, but they were perfectly refreshing. Among the first we had the opportunity to try a new line of ice cream Gelati d’Oro NATURA and ice-creams were presented by prodcer, Dalibor Jurina.
Hotel Belleuve
Our base in Lošinj was Hotel Bellevue in Mali Lošinj. About this lovely hotel and wonderful staff we will specifically write in the next issue. In the space of Bellevue hotel both theme dinners were held.
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Fragrances
and tastes of
Lošinj
At the first thematic dinner, called „Fragrances and tastes of Lošinj” we were presented a few specific Lošinj specialties directed by Lošinj caterers, accompanied by wines PP Orahovica and Belje. A special surprise was a short lecture „Food and acoustics” - about the impact of sound on the perception of taste, which was presented by Ph.D. Diana Grgurić and Ph.D. Siniša Fajt.
Menu:
Restaurant Televrin • Hake rolls with anchovies marinated in island herbs with kale • Top Graševina 2013. Belje Restaurant Za kantuni • Sea Bream mint fillet with Truffle mousse • Silvanac zeleni 2013, PP Orahovica Tavern Silvana • Brudet of Lošinj squids on polenta with wild asparagus • Pinot sivi 2013, PP Orahovica Restaurant Punta • Rumpsteak in green pepper sauce with fresh cow cheese dumplings • Top CabernetSauvignon 2009, Belje Tavern Bora Bar • Panna cotta with island sage honey • Silvanac Jezerac 2011, PP Orahovica Desert of Lošinj captains – Natural Madagascar vanilla ice-cream and Dominican Republic chocolate with Lošinj citrus fruits •
Chardonnay, Vina Belje ice wine G.E.T. | 29
Apoxyomenos
antique cuisine
At the second thematic dinner, called „ Apoxyomenos antique cuisine”, the project of the same name was presented, which was launched by City of Mali Lošinj and Tourist Board of Mali Lošinj in cooperation with consultant Adrian Nikolić. The project was inspired by important discovery of the famous sculpture of Greek athlete Apoxyomenos, found just in Lošinj underwater, and the goal is to connect the ancient cuisine and gastronomy of Lošinj today. Of course, this is about homemade delicacies prepared on the basis of ingredients and preparation methods as in ancient times.
Menu:
Restaurant Artatore •
Chickpeas spread; Dried Tuna; stuffed olives; Anchovies dressing
•
Top quality Graševina , Vina Belje
Deveron pub • Octopus in vinegar • Graševina 2013, PP Orahovica Restoran Diana • Ravioli „Diana“ (homemade ravioli stuffed with wild asparagus curd cheese in shrimp sauce) •
Top chardonnay 2013, Vina Belje
Restourant Noštromo • Turbot au gratin on wild fennel and mangold puree • Silvanac zeleni 2013, PP Orahovica Buffet Lošinjsko jidro • Braised pheasant with grapes, barley porridge, dates in apple porridge • Top Merlot 2011, Vina Belje Restourant Veli žal • Braised lamb tripes • Frankovka 2012, PP Orahovica An honor which is traditionally given to best friends - Cut down the traditional Lošinj dessert Krokant with a saber – was received by Karin Mimica, president of Gastronauti. With Krokant, Silvanac Jezerac 2011, PP Orahovica was served. 30 | G.E.T.
Don’t think that in this gastronomic walk we only ate. We also visited the Fragrant Island Garden, took a walk of the seafront of Lošinj captains, visited the Institute of Marine Research and Conservation– Blue World, Museum-Gallery Tower Veli Lošinj and took a walk of Harbour Rovenska.
Fragrant Island Garden Lošinj is an island that smells especially nice - fragrances! - The Fragrant Island Garden in one place shows Lošinj’s fragrant richness. It was decorated after the island’s fragrant paradise landscapes. Over 250 wild scented plants grow in the garden that scents Lošinj-Cres Islands. With an expert guide, visitors can learn about the rich island flora, the medicinal properties of plants and buy an original island souvenir.
Blue World Blue World Institute through its three programs scientific research, educational and conservational program - implements several projects with the goal of gathering information about the life of endangered marine organisms (especially marine mammals and sea turtles), education of the public and various interest groups.
Work of the Institute can be supported through action „Adopt a dolphin ’. Club Gastronaut adopted bottlenose dolphin named Santiago.
Kvarner Palace,
future
Apoxyomenos Museum
Croatian Apoxyomenos (2nd-1st c. BC. BC.), 192 cm tall, was drawn out on April 27th, 1999 from underwater between the island Vele Orjule and the island of Lošinj and is currently the only large bronze found on the east coast of Adriatic sea. The grand opening of the museum is expected in late 2015. G.E.T. | 31
Winery Korta Katarina 3 G.E.T. stars winery
Korta Katarina winery in Orebić was created ten years ago, when Lee Reuben Anderson, owner of US-based company APi Group, which is a regular member of the Forbes 400 America’s largest private companies list, and a great lover of Croatian wines decided to create a winery that will produce quality wines of Croatian indigenous varieties. He chose it to be primarily Plavac Mali and a first harvest of 2006. Winery Korta Katarina placed on the market in 2008. Year.
32 | G.E.T.
The winery was built in probably the most beautiful coastal part of Orebić, in a position close to the beautiful beach and with an excellent view of the Korčula. The name of the winery, Korta Katarina is a combination of local and family tradition. Orebić is very well known for its sea captains who sailed different seas and when they would came back home on a vacation, they would always bring many stories, something nice and interesting from
their travels around the world so that their yards, kortas, became kind of social event places and museums. Hence the name Korta, and Katarina is however very often name in the Anderson family. Wines of Korta Katarina winery wins prizes of the profession and the hearts of the audience. In their offer you can find 4 labels of excellent wines: • Korta Katarina Pošip• Korta Katarina Plavac Mali • Korta Katarina Rose (Plavac Mali & Zinfandel) • Reuben’s Private Reserve Plavac Mali
Info
G.E.T. | 33
PP Orahovica, silvanac zeleni, 2013 Silvanac zeleni, alias Grüner Silvaner, is the most widespread variety of Austria, from where also comes a natural crossbreed between Traminac and St. Georgen. It thrives great in Germany, Switzerland, Alsace, eastern Slovenia and continental Croatia, and it gives especially interesting results in the vineyard Orahovica. In PP Orahovica, where this Silvanac Zeleni comes from, at ten different positions and nearly 200 hectares they produce mainly white varieties. The wine of straw yellow color with lively yellow shades is classified as top wine of harAuthor: Nina Levičnik, vest in 2013. (although there arhitect and sommelier, is no data, it’s probably about exclusive G.E.T. wine a harvest in the second half reviewer of September, as Silvanac Zeleni is a medium late variety). Varietie sensitivity to terroir reveals the first nose, which isn’t fruity as you would expect, but mineral and gently spicy (white pepper). Reminiscent of Alsatian type of (white) wine, so it is no accident that it is filled in the bottle of Alsatiantype. The smell is discrete and with time just gentle fruity notes are revealed. Something similar is happening to the flavor, where minerality and freshness prevails, which is round with a few grams of residual sugar (no data on whether the wine is dry or semi-dry!). Unexpected warmth in the mouth gives some kind of a seal to the wine. All in all, Silvanac zeleni, PP Orahovica is a wine that gives the impression that at the great harvest it can give more (especially on the smell), and that it feels the best, chilled to about 10°C in the warm summer evenings and with the company of freshwater fish.
Wine ca rd
:
Type of win Color: W e: Still wine hite win e Quality: Superio r quality Sweetne ss Grape v : Dry ariety: 1 00% Sil Alcohol: vaner 13% Vintage: 2013 Bottle siz e: 0.75 L Price: A round 5 5 HRK Wine gro ca-Slatin wing area: Ora hovia, Slavo nia Region: Contine nta Produce r: PP Ora l Croatia h Serving tempera ovica tu Best pa re: 10 °C ired wit h: fresh fish, wh wa ite meat, pasta an ter afood d se-
Outdated label, although the main motive „O” is very good („O”, which is in the forefront of the label is the story about „O” rahovica, about feeling and the responsibility of its people), shyness on the smell, high alcohol
Selection of the bottle, a wide range of combinations with food 34 | G.E.T.
Rogić, traminer, 2011 Traminer is an old, noble grape variety already sung about in the 15th century. It most probably originates from South Tyrol (Italy), from the village Tramin after which it was named. The most famous wines and medium-late varieties come from the region of Alsace, the German region of Franconia, Kapela in Slovenia (particularly well-known to everyone semi-sweet Traminer with the „black label” from Radgonska Gorica cellar), and of course Ilok. There are two variants of this aromatic variety: fragrant (Gewürztraminer) and red, which is never mentioned on the label. The first look at a glass of wine presents a complete joy - crystal wine shimmers in vibrant, golden yellow colour with shades of old gold, which indicates that it is a mature wine. Wine is swirling slowly in the glass because of the residue of unfermented sugar, and possibly due to the higher alcohol ... You can recognize the variety at first through its smell- roses, cloves, citrus; but not so intense as at this variety can be. The nose reveals more, slowly - tertiary notes ask the question, haven’t we miss its peak. The story is repeated in the mouth – at first, typical semisweet Traminer with a rich and lasting residual taste and relatively harmonious balance between residual sugar and acid, and at second, medium-bodied wine, whose harmony is disrupted by too high alcohol (14.7% vol.) and already noticeable oxidative note.
Author: Nina Levičnik, arhitect and sommelier, exclusive G.E.T. wine reviewer
Wine ca rd: Wine typ e: Still w ine Colour: White w ine Quality: Top wine Sweetne s: semis weet Grape v ariety: 1 00% Tra Alcohol: miner 14 Vintage: ,7% 2011. Bottle siz e Wine gro 0.75 L wing are - Podun a: Ilok, S avlje rijem Region: Continen tal Croa Produce tia r: Rogić cellar Serving tempera ture: 10 Best pair - 12 °C e ken pate d with: foie gras , chic, Prekm u đimursk a giban rska and Meica (lay pancake er cake s with w ), alnuts .. .
I see this wine in society of foie gras, chicken pate, Prekmurska and Međimurska gibanica (layer cake), pancake with walnuts ... Too high alcohol; lack of harmony.
Crystal and lively colour; decision of a winemaker to make a semi-sweet wine, which has its circle of lovers, even though wine connoisseurs would certainly prefer to choose either dry or sweet variety. G.E.T. | 35
Vineda Cellar, graševina, 2013 According to one theory Graševina comes from Champagne and according to other, from Romania. At our end it most likely comes from German Heidelberg. It’s not related to Rhine Riesling in any way. It thrives in Austria, Hungary, Italy, Czech Republic, Slovakia, and Slovenia (where it’s the number of local blends - Cviček, Belokranjec Bizeljčan...) and Croatia, where the most widespread is white variety. Graševina (Welschriesling Italian Riesling, Olaszrizling Italico Reisling, Laški Riesling, Vlašský Grašica Riesling) has been neglected for many years, but in recent years once again it is gaining popularity. For Croatia, it is important that this variety is listed under the Croatian name Graševina in Wine Grapes sorts’ guide. In Croatia, the best results are given precisely in Slavonia, where this wine also comes from. Specifically from Vukosavljevica, from Vineda Cellar that was established by Kaša and Kovač families. Graševina takes the largest part of (currently) 6 hectares of its own vineyards planted in 2008.
Author: Nina Levičnik, arhitect and sommelier, exclusive G.E.T. wine reviewer
Already at first glance crystal clear, golden yellow wine promises something more - serious white wine (probably positions are top quality, yields are lower, harvest almost late). This is also confirmed by the smell, which is multi-layered, floral and fruity, dominated by basswood, apple and pear. On taste you firstly reveal feature of variety, higher acid, which is due to some grams of unfermented sugar nicely incorporated, then fruitiness and, as a cherry on top, gentle minerality. The wine is mediumfull bodied and very lively in the mouth, to which gentle bubbles of CO2 contribute. Only slightly higher alcohol impairs a perfect harmony of wine, which pairs beautifully with grilled mushrooms, freshwater fish, white meat, pizza Marguerite.... 36 | G.E.T.
Wine card: Type of win e: Still wine Colour: Wh ite wine Quality: Sup erior quality Sweetness: Dry Grape varie ty: 100% Gra ševina Alcohol: 13 % Vintage: 20 13 Bottle size: 0.75 L Winegrowin g area: V irovitica, Slavonija Region: Co ntinental Cro atia Producer: V ineda Cella r, Vukosavljevica Best paired with: Grilled hrooms, fre musshwater fis h, white meat, pizza Marguerite
Higher alcohol
Varietal characteristics, seriousness and drinkables
Family grape and wine production
Book 1: The cellarer’s log
THE CELLARER’S LOG is the book, manual and log of one cellarer’s work, either hobbyist or professional in wine production. A record is the basis of all work in the production of something, including wine. This guide takes you to independent record of all processes from production to finished product - your wine.
procedure alone and event of wine exhibition was additionally processed.
The calculations are very important and should be placed clearly and precisely in production, and therefore with calculations in wine business a lot of attention was assigned by this manual, and especially through the totality of wine preparation. Each wine needs to be evaluated before it is released on the market or at an exhibition of wine where work of winemaker-cellar man wants to be shown. This innovative manual contains exactly the totality of the independent evaluation of wines and educational set for training and evaluation implementation. The topic about the organization of the assessment
The book-manual is very practical for all members of vine-growers and winemakers associations for personal use and for mutual implementation of wine control.
Sheets for self-use in the evaluation and wine analysis and other records are also attached.
Note about the author: Jovica Nikšić, innovator, enthusiast in wine production. He lives in Novoselec, Križ community. Wine education - he started with independent learning, over attending many lectures and completed professional trainings. He is the founder, together with his friends, of innovative internet winemakers’ association „e-vinarstvo”.
G.E.T. | 37
We present: Marija Traveling the world and building a respectable basketball career, Slaven Rimac probably had not known that those basketball wandering will affect on creation of one oenophile, or rather, female oenophile. Marija Rimac, Slaven’s wife, accompanied him throughout his career and so she lived in Author: Tomislav Stiplošek Greece, Ukraine, Spain, and Photo, Helena Pletković, not to mention where else, Silvija Munda, promo but for our story the relevant moment is the one where, of course, because of basketball, Rimac family came to France. Marija, or as she is called, Mare, who was born in Zagreb with the temperament and charm of a real Split Fetiva (which she inherited from her mother), still did not know then that she was infected by wine gene. Not so much of the harvest in the vineyards of her uncle somewhere in Vukovo selo, which she visited when she was little, how much with whole summer socializing with great winemaker Andro Tomić. But to get back to France ... At one reception Mare meets Lionel Osmin and her wine world gets a whole new dimension. Lionel is a man who has decided to show the world that France is not only Bordeaux, Champagne and Burgundy. He wants to show that also south-western France has very much of wine potential. So,
38 | G.E.T.
a man of 30-something years decides to do something big. First, he realizes that vineyard planting would require an extremely long time and therefore he decides to buy grapes. Of course, he participates in all stages of cultivation; he doesn’t buy whatever. A few years ago, he was named the best winemaker of France in category of those who buy grapes. What is the relationship with his partners, shows the fact that on the label by his name he has put the phrase „& Cie”, which would be „and associates“ in translation. Lionel is the person to whom wine is passion, and not just a job. He enjoys being in the vineyard, have grapes and leaves in hands,
Rimac, Vinolicious to feel them, in such a primordial way. This connection to the vines, you either have or you don’t - it is not something that can be taught. Big part of the assortment from which he produces his wines is not much known to everyone. In fact, it is known only to wine connoisseurs. These are varieties like Negrette, Tannat, Colombard, Gros and Petit Manseng and many others. All those vineyards are located in southwestern France (appeal Bergeracois, Cahors, Fronton, Gaillac, Jurançon, Marcillac, Madiran, Armagnac), and in Biarritz Lionel has a wine bar and wine shop where first business steps were also made by our Mare. Today that company produces about a million bottles of wine per year and there’s everything - from light white to excellent red wines. They also have one liqueur wine and also produce Armagnac, which, unfortunately, are still not available at market in Croatia. The names of wines are related to some places in SW France, but not entirely to the positions of the vineyards. For instance, a wine that I intensively loved, and it is a coupage of Gros Manseng and Sauvignon Blanc, it is called Chambre d’amour, or in translation, Room of love, and that is one beautiful beach on the Atlantic Ocean. His passion for wines Lionel also conveyed on Mare, who still finds smells of spring and a slight whiff of the breeze in a glass of wine, or wine reminds her of love... In any case, among the distributors she is the most playful and most charming creature, and in particular should be valued because as a woman she sails excellently in,
however, primarily male waters. In some of the future issues we will write more about the winery, the wines and Lionel himself. When listening to Mare talking about this, „their” wines, because in the meantime she has become the godmother to Lionels child, you get the desire to taste these wines and enter researching wine world that Lionel creates with her. She still has that genuine wine passion that many have lost. You must meet Marija Rimac. To begin with, visit her website www.vinolicious.hr and find out more about their wines. My personal recommendation, if I can, is to surely try the Room of love. And Mare ... She is a testament that around wine only good people gather. G.E.T. | 39
Hotel 8, restoran Otok
Author: Tomislav Stiplošek Photo: Helena Pletković
When we mention Brač, somehow we always think of Bol first and one of the most famous beaches of our beautiful country. The same was with me until I met a team from Hotel 8. Beautiful mansion situated on the very coast of Supetar... Olives and stone that dominate the terrace and entrance give the feeling of pristine Mediterranean.
But let’s solve the enigma of the name first because my first question also was „Why 8?” Well, the answer is simple. It took them that many years to gather all the paperwork and permits off the competent institutions for the renovation of the former hotel Tamaris. Fortunately, they didn’t give up.
Hotel entrance and terrace with 70 years old olive trees 40 | G.E.T.
Hotel lobby is as a comfortable living room
At the reception, you’ll often find Suzana Marčić
“Roof top bar” at the roof of the hotel
Heated swimming pool
View from the highest terrace
The Hotel now has 28 top quality rooms. Everything is subordinated to simplicity and your enjoyment. There is no false gloss, no gold handles on cabinets, but the bed - like being on a cloud - they showed quite a luxury here. Looked after every detail and used every inch of space. Behind almost every mirror is some hidden corner. Rooms are nor too big nor too small. They have everything you need and somehow tailored upon a man because - in them you feel comfortable, and that’s what’s important – well, you’re on a vacation! Beds are ultra-comfortable G.E.T. | 41
Within the hotel there’s also a villa, property that was built in the late 19th century, which can be rented separately, or you can use only a room inside of it. The villa exudes luxury at every turn - from the kitchen where you can really enjoy, over modern „media room” (TV and music room) to a bathroom with fantastic stand-alone tub, from which through a small window you’re looking at a sea-walk. Warm, fragrant bath, two glasses of wine, right person next to you...The rest I’ll leave to your imagination. Villa is definitely among the best interiors in Croatia. A fantastic blend of modern and traditi-
42 | G.E.T.
onal details is something that makes this ambience like a fairytale a bit. I will not describe the hotel anymore, it can be seen best by the photographs, and believe me - it is the best to see it in person. What thrilled me in fact is the concept of hotel’s work and its staff. Let’s go step by step. The Hotel is declared as a hotel for adults, and it is opened all year long. The concept can be described as a „hotel for as at home rest.” Yes, it might sound strange, but it’s fantastic. For starters, you do not have classical reception but the lobby, which is a
combination of office and living room where you feel just comfortable. Chairs, armchairs, everything exudes by comfort and whatever you ask and ask for is possible. If you make coffee at the bar, no one will blame you neither will make a problem out of it. The guest is a king - literally, but as you are king in your own home - priceless. The hotel is small enough that it can be personalized to the maximum and they used that to perfection. Everything, just everything is subordinated to your enjoyment and commodity. You have the feeling that you are a guest among friends and not among the hotel staff and you will always be happy to come back, and that’s the whole point. The most important thing is that the staff is a very young team. Hotel Manager Željko Čubrilo - Kiko with his almost 30 years is the oldest among them. This young team sets the tone for the hotel. Firstly, they are all constantly smiling, but honestly. It’s not that professional smile that irritates you, no, they are really happy and they transfer that to other people. They’re polite and helpful to the maximum, and
what’s most important, while they are professional to perfection. With them you have the feeling that you are friends with everyone at that hotel. If I am coming to spend money on the Adriatic, I will definitely rather spend it on a place like this where they look at me as a man, and not as a banknote. It’s the concept that’ should be applied absolutely everywhere, but for that you have to have such staff. So, everything starts and ends with the right staff. And yes, the detail that fascinated me: cleanliness of the hotel, but really of every corner is - absolute. G.E.T. | 43
Restaurant Otok is within the hotel and works as a separate part. It is opened to all guests, and I am afraid that very soon in that restaurant you’ll have to wait in line for a table. The young chef, Frane Marinković, who is only 24 years old, owns the kitchen supremely. He will prepare seafood, but also a serious piece of meat equally well. They did a great shift from sea food exclusively, which of course you can get there, but also in all other restaurants in Supetar, by adding a fantastic line of meat dishes to the map, let’s say Argentine steak, or socalled Tomahawk which received a special praise at Trip Advisor. All ingredients are selected, fresh (cherry tomatoes and spices even come from the hotel garden) and are treated superbly. I personally believe that people from Split will start to come to lunch to Otok soon, because if they continue like this, they will soon be the new star on the gastro scene. Frane is a chef who in presentation has somewhat of rustic charm that does not decrease the appearance of the plate but points out the flavor of the main ingredients and this is his guiding princhef Frane Marinković ciple. Now some will say that I lost it, but he reminded me of great Zdravko Tomčić from Draga di Lovrano. The important thing for him is to stay on this path and to be allowed to develop. Let his imagination develop and we can expect perfect dishes. I think that by next year they will begin to appear in gastro-guides because they already deserve that right now. Very important, as well – is a wine card. Excellently composed with extremely friendly wine prices, which is definitely a big advantage. The map itself is yet to be filled, with a focus on indigenous wine varieties and Kiko revealed to us that the staff will go through wine education. 44 | G.E.T.
And icing on the cake - Milana Hržić is a priceless treasure that this restaurant has. The young lady is a designer by profession, but pastry chef at heart. I just loved her sweets (perhaps because of her profession they also look perfect) - these are the desserts for which I would „pull” from Zagreb to Brač. I already wrote about her Rožata cake, it is perfection and something like this can’t be prepared without a great love for that job. About her, we will still, with no doubt, hear a lot. During our visit we tried a couple of her desserts and I am immensely grateful to her for this experience.
pastry chef Milanka deserves all the praises
In the end, what to say? Boy, Hotel 8 and restaurant Otok - you have to visit them! At any time of the year, any time of the day. Sincere recommendations. And yes...If you will have to wait for the table at the restaurant, ask if Kiko is there; tell him that you were sent by these from G.E.T. Report, it might help.
Tavern Kopačina In conversations about Brač, right next to tourism, the theme is also Brač stone, known all over the world. And yes, quarrying in the quarry is a very hard work, but when I listen to Ivo Jugović talk about his tavern Kopačina, which works throughout the year, I do not see that it is much easier for him. Kopačina is already known, has regular clients and works well, although it’s not on the coast. This fact - that it’s not on the coast but in Donji Humac, and works well - only proves that it doesn’t matter where you are, because if you have a good quality, guests will find you. But let’s get back to the beginning. Ivo is a child of Brač. He spent his childhood there and went to school, and when he was supposed to decide how to go through life, Ivo chose the wa-
iter profession. As he says himself, he loved working with people and was always entrepreneurial. His wife, who accompanied him throughout his life, also finished hospitality on Brač, but as a cook. It will later be seen as a very important fact, because as Ivo says, without her he wouldn’t have succeeded in life.
Author: Tomislav Stiplošek Photo: Helena Pletković
At least not this way. In former country it wasn’t possible to advance the way he wanted, and he wanted to live to the fullest and so they quickly move to Switzerland and work there in the hospitality industry and Ivo gets the opportunity of additional education and progress. Life goes on, the baby is here, time passes by and they are
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getting closer to the decision to return back home. 1989 they return back to Croatia and everything starts all over again. For four years Ivo leads one hotel and is slowly getting impatient, then a chance is starting to show - to rent a place with a large terrace on the very sea shore in Supetar. It is, in fact, the defining moment. At that place they show all their knowledge they have acquired through education and access to work they gained working in Switzerland. His wife Jadranka in the kitchen and Ivo in the hall and so the place quickly became recognized and visited. But restaurants on the coast have their legalities such as fast guest exchange and mainly guests who do not think beyond Ćevap, and that’s not what Ivo wants. So Ivo makes a decision about buying an old house in Donji Humac and opening a restaurant at this location. When he comes to the bank, because without a loan he will not be able to, he is advised to think again, and is this what he really wants, because.. Okay, the bank is covered by mortgage, but they find Ivo nice and would not want him to stay without anything. Those who know Brač and know where Donji Humac is, are not surprised by such a suggestion by the bank, but Ivo remains firm and relatively fast, Kopačina starts with its business. Tavern got a name Kopačina after the nearby cave, although today the tavern is more known than the cave itself.
Today, years later, Kopačina is a recognizable tavern whose name is regularly in all relevant guides. What did guests recognize that the restaurant is almost always full, but not even close to the sea? Firstly, they have their own organic garden and all vegetables come from that garden. Groceries are 46 | G.E.T.
always fresh and carefully prepared; here, staff will rather say that they don’t have something than to sell you old foodstuff. Moto of their cuisine is: Healthy and authentic Brač food. However, this tavern with no small number of spots within the building and a large beautiful terrace with which you will fall in love as soon as you see it, is best known for lamb meat. Brač homemade lamb meat is the main topic of Kopačina kitchen - of genuine Vitalac all the way to lamb liver pate. A particular specialty is lamb on a spit - something like spit of the technique of preparation, but small pieces of meat are being roasted. Through summer months, Tavern Kopačina has a lamb meat festival every Tuesday - therefore, lamb meat in myriad ways. And yes, be sure to announce yourself and book a place because in those days Kopačina is too small.
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They also have various fish in their offer - the selection depends on the catch of fishermen, but you already understood that. All in all, Jadranka and Ivo organized one exceptional gastronomic destination. In Kopačina, quality of the food is first, and
everything else is behind, but that “else” is also superbly done. With all those wonderful meals, in the first row they will offer local wines of Brač, Senjković, Stina and Baković to you, but also something on the side is found, if the guest wants it. I can already see your concerns - price. Well, the
price is right. You’ll never leave Kopačina with the feeling that you were „ripped off”, but on the contrary, for such quality and service it’s not much. Today, mom Jadranka’s kitchen is slowly taken over by her son Ivan and he’s doing more than well. He is somewhat taking over more obligations on himself, and dad Ivo, proud to heaven, introduces
him with all the secrets of restaurant business and says: „Slowly, let him learn step by step, because if a man takes too much weight on himself, he breaks.” Tavern Kopačina is a real example of a family business and in front of them there is still long and successful future. The nearest plans are upgrading rooms on the first floor above the restaurant because accommodation is always required, and we have no doubt that rooms will be superior. That
means new positions, and that is something where Ivo currently sees the biggest problem - we do not have real, qualified personnel. The whole system is set up a bit wrong. Ivo offered his help to the school- however this is his school and his island, but the system is too big, he says - if someone from the politicians wanted to change something, it would be very difficult, so it is better left this way. And so, for the umpteenth time we are our own biggest problem. But it’s a completely different story. So, word by word, we have come to the end. All who have been here once, they come back again. And so will we. And Video you, if you haven’t been in Kopačina yet...What are you waiting for? I really do not understand you…
Donji Humac - Brač Donji Humac is one of the oldest settlements on Brač. About 7 km south of Supetar, with its 200 inhabitants, Donji Humac is within the smallest towns of Brač. It’s located on the sunny side of a small hillock, with a view of the beautiful nature. It seems that time stood still in the old days, traditional lifestyle is omnipresent. It’s a small idyllic place, of rich stone masonry tradition, rural architecture and traditional way of life. Donji Humac Residents welcomes you with an exceptional welcome and here you will not feel like a stranger but as an old friend. Donji Humac leaves no one indifferent. (Taken from the website of Tavern Kopačina) G.E.T. | 47
Unknown travelogues: Winery Bolfan Vinski vrh As newly G.E.T. Report members, my fiance Bojan and I had the opportunity to visit a number of top gastro and oeno destinations in Croatia, but also several hidden treasures and taste enchantment springs. In this review I will write about the ecstasy of taste and I will try to bring closer the experience Author: Maja Komarčević to you, from my point of view. (Profile photo: Saša Pećanac) We were hoping for a nice and Photo: Silvija Munda somewhat warm day of our first trip. Early morning routes of G.E.T. Report took us to the beauty of Croatian Zagorje, starting with the Winery Bolfan-Vinski Vrh in Hrašćina.
On the very arrival already off the highway, the view extends to magical Vinski Vrh whose sight yet from there attracts curious eyes. Arriving to Vinski Vrh, we were welcomed by a beautiful wooden Zagorje Cottage, bathed in sunshine and endless scenery of vineyards which impressively adorned the very top and surrounding meadows. With the sound and song of the wind that was touching blossomed branches, this experience was indeed magical. When we entered the cottage we climbed up into the restaurant to drink a glass of wine and eat a 48 | G.E.T.
traditional breakfast. Our wine and food experience began there. Warm and cozy interior of this cottage overwhelmingly reminds of a village house, even the decor gives that important note of love mixed with flavors and fragrances of the dishes that were prepared there. At the very beginning of tasting I chose Traminer juice recommended by the waitress which I was sincerely delighted with. The mixture of flavors imbued with a note of honey and flowers reminded me of elderberry juice, although I can say with certainty that these two different products speak for themselves. After coffee, juice and a glass of Sauvignon, traditional breakfast took place. I must mention that I am surprised by the fact that all foodstuff of Vinski Vrh are off eco production (100% organic) and so was our breakfast, cold plate. Cuts and cheeses were served on a symbolic wooden platter decora-
ted with fresh lamb’s lettuce leaf. Along the platter superb rolls and bread with seeds from own production of Vinski Vrh were served. Platter had more different kinds of delicious cheese (cheese with red paprika, smoked cheese and cheese with black pepper) and also several kinds of cured meat and even very tasty Lardo. The combination of these flavors definitely brought me back to winter days, especially because we were in Zagorje cottage, which among other things has a beautiful fireplace in the lobby. After satisfying meal I tried Pinot Noir of extremely thick texture and intense flavor- something that usually thrills me in wines. At the very end of an unforgettable day spent at Vinski Vrh, manager, Mr. Branimir Puškadija offered us somewhat sweeter Rhine Riesling.
I don’t think I need to write anything else about my impression of this cottage and I hope I transferred each note in which I enjoyed there through my text.
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Wine wanderings: “Med Region – Slavonija
We all try to relax in different ways in our everyday life and give ourselves vent in the areas where we show our interest, passion or joy. Some book 14 days of cruise, some ravage fashion brand shelves, some paint or compose, while some more than anything love to prepare two or more glasses with a wide Author: Matej Rotim hat and open the door to new wine horizons and knowledge with an opener auger. Now, to obtain a cork for drilling, you should pay for cork too. Some corks cost more and some less. Some cork keeps bigger secret, some smaller, while some don’t keep any. However you turn that, if you will look, smell and taste what is behind the cork you will also have to pay for that. What are the prices of wines in Croatia? Winemakers will agree that they are too low, and we, the consumers and buyers… I think that we consumers are in far more favorable role than producers. For 100.00 HRK without a problem, we buy a bottle of wine whose grapes have been growing in one of the micro locations of a particular vineyard, which was nurtured for quite a lot of months in high class barrique, whose life expectancy is certainly 5 years and we find all that on the shelves of local stores around every corner. Then it’s easy to conclude that in the cellar of one winemaker bottle of something like that costs less than 100.00 HRK. Well, now the challenge is to make a calculation to see the earnings of winemakers off such a bottle. The point is certainly not in proving the unenviable position of winemakers themselves, the point is to prove that those who want to remove 2 corks weekly from two previously non-tasted bottles, don’t have to set aside 150.00 HRK per week (one to two bottles), or 600.00 HRK a month, but can go cheaper, and yet enjoy. Realistically, there’s not much of the wine audience that consumes 600.00 and more HRK on cork drill. Perhaps because of a false assumption that, if wine is not expensive it’s bad. Because of this 50 | G.E.T.
feeling, I decided to see if there is some interspace between a bottle of wine of satisfactory quality and such a price that will provide a sense of „a good trade”. Somehow I believe that there are a number of wine labels that did not get in the information space of the wine scene as the same cover the labels that are more expensive, more prestigious and have more shine, the expensive ones. On the trail of that, we decided to conduct a “medium category” tasting. This refers to the price of approx. 35.00-55.00 HRK. 4 regions: Slavonia, North, Istria and Dalmatia, each of these per 5-6 etiquettes of red wine. After tasting, each category proclaims „best buy” label and at the end winners of categories clash until they get a real best buy. We started with Slavonia. Although Slavonia has a sign of white variety in which Graševina and Traminer lead, it was interesting to see their red wines, especially in this, lighter price category. We chose randomly, the only norm was that the price is in the range of approximately 35.00-55.00 HRK and so, the first five are…
Kalazić - Cabarnet Sauvignon 2012. – 39.00 HRK It is about a high-quality dry wine. The wine is characterized by dark red color. The color reveals certain solidity. By its smell the wine mostly reminiscent of prune and what’s most important; acids are much harmonized and at any time follow other components. 13.5% of alcohol is just enough to be a cherry on top. This wine is definitely in the category of best buy considering the price of 39.00 HRK and the pleasure it provides. Maybe it’s not the wine with which we will impress business partners or similar, but I do not see why it wouldn’t be purchased for some peaceful and homely atmosphere. We are delighted with this label, and also a few others who attended the tasting expressed suspicion that it’s about a lot „more difficult” price category. It’s for the “best buy” category, certainly.
dium category” tasting Krauthaker Cuvee 2013. disqualified It’s also about a high-quality dry wine. Krauthaker Cuvee 2013 accidentally ended up in a shopping cart. The first choice was Zweigelt by Adžić, but the price of Zweigelt really crossed the rules of the game and based on that we „disqualified” it. Unfortunately, we also disqualified Krauthaker Cuvee 2013. I say unfortunately, because I was really looking forward to experience what lies in big Vlado’s „smaller” bottles. The wine has taken the smell of cork badly. At this occasion, it was unusable. We are waiting for the next one, it must be good.
Zdjelarević ZWS Cuvee 2013. – 33.00 HRK It’s a special edition series. It’s a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. Label for the curious ones for sure. It’s a bit unusual. Color is not as extinguished as in „Kalazić”, it stands on the line of a pink-red to rosé color more. It’s a warm wine, unpretentious, perhaps a little shy. It holds tight to category. It surely justifies 33.00 HRK.
Feravino Dika – high-quality dry red wine, 2012. – 39.00 HRK It’s a very powerful wine, with 14.1% alcohol and somewhat hidden acids but quite sufficient for a strong structure that is complemented by aging in oak tree. Not a lot of talking here, wine is for strong, oily and spicy food. We think it would be greatly paired with a plate of Čobanac or a fish hash. Surely a „best buy” mark. We enjoyed.
Erdut cellars, Zweigelt – high-quality dry red wine, 2011. – 35.00 HRK In our opinion it’s a shy wine. We have scanned it for a long time and the only thing we are sure about is that acids lead over other components. I wish that this bottle was tasted by someone more experienced, so he could say something more about it, this way we will remain somewhat restrained about this label. The question is also how credibly this wine could have been presented due to a 2011. vintage. Theoretically, organoleptic features should not have been compromised, although we highly doubt that. Those were the first five labels that we tasted and their price did not exceed beyond a given limit. Although at the very beginning, because till the end of “medium category” tasting we expect a minimum of 15 labels, we are very satisfied and happy because there are good chances that the initial hypothesis proves true. The truth is that anyone who enjoys in cork drill, interpreting features that are hidden behind it, does not have to reach out to his pocket with large hands to afford pleasure. Although we will formally dedicate to the region „North” in the search for other „best buy” labels, we will not close „Slavonia”. Somehow, this Slavonia is very dear to us, we think that it hides a lot, lot more. We will be persistent with it, from time to time there will surely be something to find that deserves attention and enjoyment. Until then, we direct our attention to the green hills of the North.
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Adriatic Sea lo
Author: Tomislav Stiplošek Photo: Helena Pletković
Many years ago, somewhere around Zadar, they shouted: „Both went down, both went down!”. Well, this time as well, they both fell down, but now the story is about two Dentex fish that Marin Vanjak, one of the best fishermen of our country, probably somewhere around Zadar (if it is another location, let it be, this one fits our story) caught and proudly delivered to Zagreb. Specifically, to his O’Hara.
So, we have two Dentex’ of 10 kg each. In fact, one has 10, and the other one „only” 9.5. Now, what to do with them? Well, of course: cooking duel! 52 | G.E.T.
Cooking wanderer (a great friend of all of us) Časlav Matijević will prepare one Dentex in a way to fillet it. Fillets are going into a marinade and in the end on the pan, and Marin Vanjak ... Well, he will grill the other one in one piece. You will agree that things are becoming interesting here. The event begins with a small photo shooting – that must be recorded, such fish are not grilled every day. Preparation starts. In this part Časlav has more work to do so we will also start with his way of preparation. Firstly, he cleaned the fish (I think of Den-
tex, not our Ribafish) and removed all of its husks. I can tell you that this is a very demanding job. Next action is filleting, namely, separating the meat from the bo-
ost two giants
I ask Dinko Bogdanić, if he’s reading this, to pay attention to the next photo - I think our Časlav has a place in every ballet ensemble.
nes. Here we got a couple of larger pieces of Dentex’ meat. After that, fillets go into the marinade, but before - in a sea water bath. Yes, sea water. Časlav brought sea water, mixed it with ice and added spices (rosemary, sage, lavender, thyme...). Fish will imbrue in it for two hours after which it will smell of the sea and that way it’s going into the marinade of olive oil, orange juice, a little lemon and Časlav’s spice mix. Now all that’s needed to do is wait. Meanwhile, Marin finished with the preparation of a fire which is extremely important when you’re grilling a fish, and especially such, of 10 kg.
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As Marin himself tells us, there are a few people in Croatia who will take on this deal and grill such fish properly. Fish of this size is very challenging for grilling. There are of course parts of the fish such as the head, belly, tail and even the back... In each part meat is of a different structure and needs a different approach. That’s the problem of one piece grilling. Of course, it also can’t fall apart at turning. It should not be dry, neither bloody around the bones and so on... It’s less interesting to you, yes, yes. To make things even more interesting, Marin grilled the fish without notching. The insides are removed through the gills so that the fish remains whole. A little secret is that behind the head, somewhere near the spine, you pierce a finger size hole – spices are being put in it and fish is being filled with olive oil through it. Of course, you oil the whole fish but through that hole, oil slowly trickles by back through the whole fish inside. By
the way, this Dentax was grilled about three and a half hours and during that time he drank a little more than four liters of olive oil.
Časlav baked his fillets, cut into small pieces in a pan and served them with chard coulis and fennel flavored potato cream.
Marin’s fish was poured with mixture of oil, garlic and a bit of parsley at serving. 54 | G.E.T.
Now which one was better - I simply can’t say that. Each is great in its own way. With Marin’s fish, very preparation method is fascinating and somehow you have the respect towards that piece of fish and only after that you realize that the fish is excellent not dry nor raw - in fact, the fish is perfect. U svakom slučaju, velika hvala Marinu i Časlavu na nesvakidašnjem događaju. A vi, ako vam šaka padne riba od 10-ak kila, znate što kažu na tv: ’ne radite to kod kuće’ - dođite do O’Hare da steknete potrebno znanje. I naravno - preporučujemo se za degustaciju, jer i to treba znati. Časlav’s fish dominates with the flavors which were created by the marinade, then softness of fish, just perfect, but in a different way. And yes, we drank beer along both fish, however purebred ALE’s and I can say that it fits well. The event was designed for fish lovers, fishermen, journalists and anyone who wanted to learn something new. I think that there was supposed to be more people to see something that is rarely seen. I’d like to see these things in various TV shows, and not that all is based on various soap operas. Kids from culinary school were supposed to be here; maybe we can arrange that for some other time.
Anyways, big thanks to Marin and Časlav for this unusual event. And you, if you ever run into a fish of about 10 kg, you know what they say on TV: ’Don’t do this at home’ - come to O’Hara to gain the necessary knowledge. And of course - we recommend ourselves for the tasting; one has to know that too.
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Pig business When I nearly a year ago, with a team led by Ivan Dropuljić went the way of Slavonia in search of specific breeds of pigs, it all seemed quite optional. Five of pig breeds, one pig from each - Duroc, Landrace, Black Slavonian pig, Turopolje pig and Mangulica - we send half of each in Istria and half in Dalmatia - they do cured meat products there, which we will evaluate later. Well, I understand that, but what’s the purpose of that joke and not really a cheap joke? So the purpose certainly exists. Unfortunately, this is the action of individuals, amateurs, and it should be done at a much higher distance. There’s work for the Ministry of Agriculture also and for lots of people, because, it’s really time to see which one of the pigs gives the best prosciutto and in which way it is processed, then the same goes for the bacon, for example sirloin and so on. We’re all talking about the protection of prosciutto as an indigenous product, and traceability – nothing about that. This is a small beginning, and I hope that someone responsible will be able to recognize that. This is a project that reveals a lot about meat, preparation methods, the breed, age and weight of pigs. We could bring out many conclusions here, but we’ll leave that to authoritatives – they might also remember.
paying attention at marks, which is from which pig, because when treated to us layman, the differences are small. After that was solved too, transmission to processing follows. Five halfs went to prosciutto manufacture Dujmović in Istria, more precisely in Kringa near Tinjan, and other halfs to the prosciutto manufacture Smjeli in Dugopolje, therefore to Dalmatia. For them it was probably the most difficult in the entire project because it was necessary to prepare several products of each half while paying attention that it is exactly known what is from each pig, and so we come at nearly 20 products, and overall in processing they have approximately 300400 kg of meat . When all is put in room for drying it
was only supposed to wait. And just when we started to forget about this subject, there ... Professor Dropuljić calls for „Pig business” and where else but in Zagreb Esplanada.
I will not go into professional themes any further; let’s turn to the project itself. As I said, we traveled around our beautiful Croatia buying pigs and that was the easy part of the job. The next step is in the slaughterhouse: get two halves from each while 56 | G.E.T.
On the very „Pig business“ quite large and colorful company gathered. There were restaurateurs, sommeliers, chefs, food journalists and people who
to each. I fought heroically, but in the end I didn’t try it all, and I think nobody did. However, they all tasted the most of it, everyone something and of course, we got total evaluation sum. At least evaluations of what was offered. Some pieces, however, have not been brought to testing, because they were not mature enough. I want to emphasize once again that this is an amateur action, but it should surely serve as a platform for a more serious research. Thanks to professor for allowing me to be a part of this project. And here are scores for the top rated products in groups:
are not from the profession but simply love good food. The whole story, as well as any in Esplanada – was arranged extremely elegant and nice to the eye; professor paid attention at the details, as usual. There were of course, winemakers of Association Graševina with their wines. Without that, it doesn’t go. On the tables, neatly arranged trays of excellently sliced cured meat products. Couple of introduction words of Marko Erdeljac and ... Ladies and gentlemen, „Pig business“ can begin! It should be noted that the trays were marked with codes, therefore a letter and a number - we have received a paper with the same codes on which we wrote down our evaluations. From 1 to 5, in a school way. At first, it looked like an easy task, but I quickly realized it would be a hard work. Try to taste about 50 kinds of dried meat and give meaningful evaluation
A – Prosciutto: A8 – Mangulica – Dalmatian processing (4.13) A2 – Landras – Istrian processing (3.89) A3 – Mangulica – Istrian processing (3.87) B – Bacon: B7 – Landras – Dalmatian processing B6 – Durok – Dalmatian processing B1 – Durok – Istrian processing
(4.12 (3.93 (3,64)
C – Neck C2 – Landras – Istrian processing (4.02) C8 – Mangulica – Dalmatian processing (3,85) C5 – Turopoljka – Istrian processing (3,82) D – Pork loin-ombolo: D7 – Landras – Dalmatian processing (4.06 D10 – Turopoljka – Dalmatian processing (3,95 D9 – Crna slavonska – Dalmatian processing (3,87) E – Shoulder blade: E7 – Landras – Dalmatian processing (4.12) E8 – Mangulica – Dalmatian processing (3,86) E5 – Turopoljka – Istrian processing (3,77)
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Mario Valentić i Zlatko Horva
100% percent satisfaction and top quali Mario Valentić, conditioning coach and promoter of healthy living, and Zlatko Horvat, a Croatian handball team bravely faced the „Less is more” PIK Culinary duel, where under the watchful eye of master chef Branko Ognjenović and nutritionist Karmen Matković Melki and Sanja Ćosić from Definicija hrane, accepted the challenge of preparing delicacies of meat products and after uncertain twenty minutes mutually agreed that less is really more.
PIK Vrbovec presented new campaign „Less is more” with this culinary spectacle, and with which it wants to further educate the Croatian public about the health benefits of meat products under the brand PIK. Namely, numerous publications and media reports today raise the question: „Do we know what we eat?, while consumers logically ask themselves whether the products they buy are proper selection. To Mario and Zlatko as a well-known supporters of a healthy lifestyle and sports, choice of proper nutrition is especially important so they accepted the culinary challeng with meat products of PIK brand which do not contain flavor enhancers, artificial coloring, gluten neither soy with pleasure. „The participants of my trainings often seek advice from me regarding proper nutrition. Personally, I always choose and ask for meat that is „clean”, therefore without additions of the modern era, so products under the brand PIK that do not contain flavor enhancers, artificial coloring, gluten neither 58 | G.E.T.
soy are products that I will definitely recommend to others, „said visibly pleased Mario Valentić. After accepting the thrown glove, Zlatko Horvat didn’t hide how delighted he was with PIK products and he said: „For each of my training or day it’s important what and when I eat. More of less but evenly spread meals is essential for muscle work, for the success of the game so I find myself very often thinking what to eat and how to combine? Entry of meat products without unnecessary additives is very important at the same time because it is our need for full power and not empty calories, in fact imperative to the success of the game and thereby the whole team. „ Development Director of PIK, Ines Bertinovec added: „Products under the brand PIK were prepared from the finest pieces of meat, in the most modern conditions according to the high hygiene standards. They are proud holders of a stamp „zero percent”, which specifically means that they doesn’t contain flavor enhancers, artificial coloring, gluten nor soy, so our products can be consumed without fear of allergies and possible harmful effects on your health. „
This was also confirmed by the nutritionists Karmen Matković Melki and Sanja Ćosić, who agreed that the true fact is that less is more, because with the use of high-quality recipes, knowledge of technologists and selected raw materials with known origin, meat products really do not need any other ingredients, except natural spices which consequently affect the achievement of the desired color and flavor.
at confirmed: „Less is more“
ity charmed present at PIK culinary duel Recipes: PIK culinary duel - Mario Valentić & Zlatko Horvat SPINACH AND MEAT MC PIE by Mario Valentić 4 persons - 3 eggs - Himalayan salt – flower salt - Buckwheat flour - 1-2 spoons of wheat bran - 300 gr nettle or baby spinach leaves - blanched or fresh, depending on personal preferences - 1 leek - 1 fennel - PIK Ham 200 g - Coconut butter or olive oil - Homemade cream and chive for decoration Whop eggs with a foamer, add Himalayan salt, buckwheat flour and 1-2 tablespoons of wheat bran and water.Add fresh or lightly blanched nettle or baby spinach leaves, leeks, fennel and ham cut into strips or cubes to the previously prepared mixture. Pour everything in a preheated pan for pancakes and fry one side well, then turn and briefly fry the other side.Divide the given pancake into 8 triangles, decorate each tirangle with cream and sprinkle with fresh chives. Serve as a main dish or a snack.
LIGHT MORTADELA SALAD by Zlatko Horvat 4 persons - - - - - - - - - -
PIK Mortadela Cooked beans Onion Mustard Pumpkin seed oil Aceto balsamico Salt Pepper Fresh tomatoes Bolied eggs
200 g 50 g 30 g 1 table spoon 50 ml 30 ml 20 g 10 g 100 g 2 pcs
Cook, cool down and cut the eggs into rings. Cut the tomatoes and onion into cubes. Cut Mortadela into cubes of bean size. Stir vegetables, eggs and mortadela in a bowl and spice with a bit of salt, pepper, pumpkin seed oil, aceto balsamico and mustard. Cool down the mixed salad and serve as a main or side dish. G.E.T. | 59