Girolibero GREENS: From Venice to Poreč by Girolibero

CYCLING GUIDE

From Venice to Porecˇ Sights, history, wining and dining tips, useful information

I O L B E

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R E E N S

From Venice to PorecË&#x2021;

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Oswald Stimpfl, the author of this Guide, is a passionate cyclist. He has published more than 25 books on various Italian regions and territories for publishers of the calibre of MairDumont, Folio Editore Bolzano/Vienna and the Italian Touring Club Association. When he’s not travelling the country observing, photographing and describing lands, peoples, foods and wines, he lives and works in the bilingual city of Bolzano.

Photos: Diego Caldieraro: p. 10, 67 t Oswald Stimpfl: cover, p. 40, 57, 64 t, 71, 72, 73, 92, 127, 177, 204 Fabrice Gallina: p. 90 Ulderica Da Pozzo: p. 93 Massimo Crivellari: p. 95, 96, 105 u, 130 Gianluca Baronchelli: p. 99, 101, 102, 103, 107 Marco Milani: p. 109, 115, 119, 122, 123 Luigi Vitale: p. 110, 112 Anja Cop: p. 111 Giorgio Baruffi: p. 162 Istria Tourist Board: p. 134, 137, 138, 139, 140, 141, 142, 143, 144, 145, 147, 148, 150, 151, 152, 153, 154, 155, 156, 157, 159, 160, 161, 164, 167, 168, 171, 172, 173, 175, 176, 180, 181, 186, 187, 188, 189, 190, 191, 194, 196, 197, 198, 199, 200, 201 Archivio Associazione Turistica Izola: p. 163 all others Girolibero and no.parking Sources: Tourist association of Istria. Excerpts from the website of the Federal Agency for Civic Education [Bundeszentrale für politische Bildung], 86 Adenauerallee, 53113 Bonn, www.bpb.de, Author: Ludwig Steindorff © Girolibero, Vicenza 2014 Maps, concept and design: no.parking, Vicenza Translations: Alphaville. Traduzioni e servizi editoriali, Vicenza Printed in Italy www.girolibero.com

OSWALD STIMPFL

From Venice to Porecˇ

I O L B E

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R E E N S

This guide will accompany you through Venice, the Adriatic coastline of the regions of Veneto and Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, and the seaport of Trieste, directly on the border before the charming coastline of Slovenia and North Croatia. It not only provides commentary on the scenery and artistic heritage of each of the places you encounter on your way, but also gives important historical information and practical tips that will make your trip and any stopovers you plan more enjoyable and safer. And, last but not least, it provides information on wining and dining, with recommendations for anything from a hearty meal to a quick snack.

Index From Venice to PorecË&#x2021; . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 The Veneto region . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Mestre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Venice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 A potted history . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Getting there . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Small Venice phrase book . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Sights worth seeing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Eating and drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 The Venice lagoon islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Venice tour 1: San Marco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Venice tour 2: Castello and Giardini . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Venice tour 3: Island hopping in the lagoon . . . . . . . . . . . 62 From Venice to Jesolo/Caorle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lido di Jesolo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Caorle.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Events.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sights worth seeing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

71 75 79 80 81

From Caorle to Portogruaro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 Portogruaro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 From Portogruaro to Palmanova/Aquileia . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 Palmanova . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 Sights worth seeing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 Events. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 Aquileia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 Sights worth seeing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 Grado . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103 Sights worth seeing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 Events. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106 From Palmanova/Aquileia to Trieste . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Trieste . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A potted history . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Events. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sights worth seeing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Eating and drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

107 118 121 124 127 130

From Trieste to Portorož . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Istria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A potted history . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Slovenia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A potted history . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sights along the route . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Eating and drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Koper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Izola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sights worth seeing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Events.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Piran.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sights worth seeing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Events. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Portorož . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Events.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Croatia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A potted history . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sights along the route . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

133 134 134 145 148 153 155 157 160 162 162 164 167 169 175 176 177 181 182

From Portorož to Porecˇ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Porecˇ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sights worth seeing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Eating and drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Events.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

183 191 194 195 200

Useful information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202

MAPS OVERVIEW OF THE TOUR . . . .8 STAGES OF THE TOUR From Venice to Jesolo/ Caorle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 From Caorle to Portogruaro . . . . 82 From Portogruaro to Palmanova/Aquileia . . . . . . . . . . 88 From Palmanova/Aquileia to Trieste . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 From Trieste to Portorož . . . . . 132 From Portorož to Porecˇ . . . . . . 184

CITYMAPS Mestre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Venice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Lido di Jesolo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 Caorle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 Portogruaro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 Palmanova . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Aquileia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 Grado . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 Trieste . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116 Piran . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166 Portorož . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 Porecˇ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192

F r o m Ve n i c e t o Po r e cˇ

From Venice to Porecˇ

Congratulations! If you have this Guide in front of you this probably means you are exploring one of the most beautiful parts of Italy and the northern Adriatic Sea with your bike. Our Venice–Porecˇ route connects the incomparable city of Venice – the pearl of the Venetian lagoon and the sea, also known as the Serenissima, or the Most Serene Republic of Venice – with the northern Croatian coastline. The water is the prevailing element in this unique landscape: on the one hand the blue Adriatic Sea, its bathing resorts (Jesolo, Caorle, Eraclea, Lignano, Grado, Duino, and Sistiana) and its beaches packed with holiday-makers, and on the other the wetlands of the great Sile, Piave, Tagliamento and Isonzo rivers, which are connected via a system of canals and inland lakes. This itinerary also includes the silted fresh and brackish water lagoons of Venice and Grado, pumping stations, and canal locks. The ancient Roman archaeological sites and paleo-Christian monuments of Aquileia, Grado, Concordia Sagittaria, and Porecˇ are all unique in their own right. Then we’ll encounter the large harbour city of Trieste with its fascinating past and its Austrian flair. The rugged coastline of Duino with its white cliffs soaring high above the beach evokes the descriptions of Rainer Maria Rilke, while the fascinating Castle of Miramare, near Trieste, takes us back in time to the tragic fate of Ferdinand Maximilian of Habsburg-Lorraine, the Emperor of Mexico. By Trieste, further

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away from the coast, the route takes us along the steep coastline of Slovenia and the north of Croatia. Since the Iron Curtain was taken down and these countries joined the EU, the national borders are hardly noticeable. The marshes and salt flats in the area are characterised by a great number of different plant and animal species and have partly become nature reserves, many of which can be visited. Footpaths, steep tracks and platforms enable visitors to enjoy nature and watch the birds. In-between, the not-so-busy country lanes are dotted with countless attractions: villages, rural stone farmhouses, ancient monasteries, and paleo-Christian churches (thirdâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; fifth century). The Mediterranean landscape, the gentle hills covered with vines, the olive groves, the museums and collections with exceptionally valuable, outstanding works of art, make the trip across this strip of land an unforgettable experience for all the senses. For a detailed description of your route, refer to the Roadbook and maps provided in a scale of 1:50,000. This Guide explores the most important sights along the itinerary and provides background information and entertaining anecdotes for a better understanding of the way of life in each province.

We hope you enjoy your bike trip along this wonderful route!

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Overview of the tour

A2 7

TREVISO

Torre di Mosto

San DonĂ di Piave P

iav

A4 7

Jesolo

Mestre VENEZIA

Cavallino Treporti T Golfo di Venezia

Laguna Veneta Veneta

M are A driati c o Chioggia

nt o me

Concordia Concor Conco rdia Sagittaria

Ta g

Portogruarro Portogrua Portogruaro

l ia

San Mich al Tagliam

Caorle

F r o m Ve n i c e t o Po r e cˇ

Palmanova A4

Torviscosa Monfalcone

atisana

Marano

Duino-Aurisina

Aquileia Grado

TRIESTE Golfo di Trieste rieste

Portorož ož

Koper

Croazia

Novigrad

Poreč

San Dorligo della Valle

Izola

hele mento Laguna di

Slovenia

F r o m Ve n i c e t o Po r e cˇ

Veneto, also historically known as Venetia, is an administrative region in north-eastern Italy. The region includes part of the Alps and the Po Valley and is bounded by the Adriatic Sea in the east. Veneto is the official name for the region, and it consists of seven provinces: Belluno, Padua (Padova in Italian), Rovigo, Treviso, Venice (Venezia in Italian), Verona and Vicenza. It has a population of about 5 million. Until about 50 years ago it was a poor agricultural area which provided emigrant labourers, but now, thanks to the hard work of its inhabitants and the solidity of its small and medium-sized enterprises, it has become one of Italy’s richest regions. Its beautiful scenery and art treasures from many different periods also make it the Italian region with the most dynamic tourist industry, with 14 million visitors and 60 million overnight stays per annum. Without a doubt, the biggest tourist attractions are Venice, the lagoon city, Verona with its Roman past, the Adriatic beach resorts of Jesolo, Bibione and Eraclea and the celebrated skiing areas in the Dolomites, the most famous of which is Cortina d’Ampezzo.

A potted history Origins Precise origin of the Adriatic Veneti uncertain but towns

like Padua, Treviso, Belluno and Vicenza ultimately developed from their settlements. 200 BCE When the region is peacefully taken over by the Romans, the Veneti ally themselves with Romans to fight against the Gauls. 89 BCE Inhabitants enjoy benefits of Roman law and declared

VENETO IN FIGURES AREA: 18,390 square kilometres INHABITANTS: 4,938,000 THE SIX LARGEST TOWNS (IN TERMS OF POPULATION) ARE: Venice: 270,880, Verona: 264,000, Padua: 214,099, Vicenza: 115,930, Treviso: 82,800, Rovigo: 52,800.

VENETO

The Veneto Region

VENETO

F r o m Ve n i c e t o Po r e cˇ

fully fledged Roman citizens in 49 BCE. Province given the name Regio X Venetia et Histria and Aquilea made its capital. Adda River, near modern Milan, constitutes region’s western border. Christianity expands to rest of region from Aquileia in the first centuries CE. 169 CE After attacks by Germanic tribes from east, Oderzo (50 km north-east of Venice) is sacked by the Marcomanni. Fifth century After the Huns, Theodoric and his Ostrogoths occupy area and rule Venetia from 493. Mainland inhabitants take refuge in inaccessible islands of the lagoon. Following skirmishes between Longobards and Byzantium (Eastern Roman Empire), the region is partitioned. Coastal strip brought under Byzantine domination and forms Venetia Marittima, Marittima whereas mainland subsumed into Kingdom of the Longobards. Late eighth century Franks under Charlemagne enter Lombardy and gain control of mainland. The lagoon and its capital Venice initially a dukedom (821) loosely allied with Byzantium until its independence (c. 1000). Dukedom ruled by elected Doge (from the Latin dux, “leader”).

F r o m Ve n i c e t o Po r e cˇ

and Earldom of Görz. For 200 years, power exercised from beyond the Alps and German feudal lords and bishops become local rulers. The Este, da Romano, Caminesi, Carrara, and Scala families become increasingly powerful; Ferrara, Padua, Treviso and Verona become city states. Thirteenth century Venice extends power to entire upper Adriatic and further west. Individual city states conquered or granted special rights to persuade them to spontaneously join the Venetian Republic. 1404–1405 City states of Vicenza, Belluno, Bassano, Feltre, Verona and Padua join Venetian Republic. 1428 Brescia, Bergamo and Crema become part of Venetian Republic, which at the height of its power rules the Adriatic and large parts of the Eastern Mediterranean. Silk and spice trade firmly in the hands of Venetian Republic, now styled Serenissima Repubblica di Venezia (Most Serene Republic of Venice). After fall of Constantinople (Byzantium) and Eastern Roman Empire, Ottomans increasingly make inroads into Venice’s sea power; the Italian mainland now considered more important. Venice’s winged-lion standard flown over large parts of northern Italy, as far as southern Trentino and the very gates of Milan. Early sixteenth century Republic at war with Papal State under Pope Julian II, the French Kings Louis XII and Francis I and the Habsburg Emperor Maximilian I; forms alliance with England and Spain. Venice loses large parts of mainland only to win them back. Wealthy Venetian patricians invest wealth in vast estates and build sumptuous villas, the celebrated “Ville Venete”. Eighteenth century Venice is one of the most refined cities in the world at that time, exerting influence on art, architecture and literature. After more than 1,000 years of independence, Napoleon forces last Doge, Ludovico Manin, to abdicate in 1797. January 1798 Austrians occupy Venice; the Serenissima is no more. 1815 Following Congress of Vienna, Venetia becomes part of the Kingdom of Lombardy-Venetia and is governed by a viceroy of the Austrian Empire. 1866 After last Italian War of Independence, referendum held in Venetia resulting in decision to join newly created Kingdom of Italy.

VENETO

962 Emperor Otto I assigns mainland to the Duchy of Bavaria

Mestre Monuments and historical sites 1 Piazza Ferretto Restaurants and pubs 2 Al Calice 3 Rosa Salva

4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Hotels Hotel Ai Pini Hotel Vivit Hotel Venezia Hotel Quid Hotel Garibaldi Hotel Michelangelo Hotel Hilton

Bikeshops 11 Breda Cicli

MESTRE

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Mestre Greater Venice has about 271,000 inhabitants, only about 60,000 of whom live in the old city in the lagoon. Most people now prefer to live and work on the mainland, in Mestre and Marghera, Venice’s “ugly sisters”. Mestre, with its sprawling commercial and industrial areas, highway, ring roads, viaducts, railway junction, industrial port of Porto Marghera, airport and working class blocks of flats is a striking contrast to Venice, the city of art and culture. But even Mestre has its beautiful side. As soon as we leave the suburbs for the old town, we find a historical centre with restricted traffic, smart shops, renovated merchant houses and a sturdy medieval town keep. Elegantly dressed Italians stroll along the Corso and hardly any of the throngs of tourists in neighbouring Venice venture this far. PIAZZA FERRETTO 1 This is Mestre’s main square. It is actually

a wide street that grew into a market place in the Middle Ages and has recently been made the tramway terminus. At the south-eastern end of a small neighbouring square you will find the Teatro Toniolo, an elegant, art nouveau glass-roofed shopping gallery. The square itself contains the Cathedral of

San Lorenzo and the Palazzo del Re, in the portico of which the grain market used to be held. It is named after the wealthy Re family. At the other end, in the continuation, Via Palazzo, there stands the massive rectangular, crenellated, medieval clock tower. In the 1990s the square was transformed by modern features, one of which is a large, centrally placed fountain with a bronze statue by Alberto Viani, a leading contemporary sculptor.

EATING AND DRINKING

2 AL CALICE 70/B Piazza Ferretto, Tel. 041 986100, open every day, closes at 8pm. This trattoria in the centre of town in Piazza Ferretto is the favourite meeting place for young mainland Venetians, especially in the evenings, when they come for the generous buffet with aperitifs. A passageway covered with the signed photographs of actors from the Venice Film Festival and local celebrities leads to an inner courtyard with restaurant tables.

3 ROSA SALVA 19 Via Cappuccina, Mestre, Tel. 041 988400, closed Mondays, www.rosasalva.it This “mainland branch” of a famous Venice pasticceria, or patisserie, is ideally placed near the town centre and not only does it have its own bakery and delicious desserts but also a small menu of good, cheap, fast dishes. It is a favourite rendezvous spot for Mestre’s locals.

Venice Tourist office

1 2 3 4 5 6 17 18 19 20 21

Monuments and historical sites Canal Grande Piazza San Marco Basilica di San Marco Palazzo dei Dogi Riva degli Schiavoni Rialto Ponte dei Sospiri Campo Santo Stefano Chiesa di Santa Maria della Salute Zattere Ca’ d’Oro

22 Campo dei SS. Giovanni e Paolo 23 Giardini della Biennale 24 Giudecca 25 Chiesa del Redentore Museums 7 Galleria dell’Accademia 8 Guggenheim 9 Scuola Grande di San Rocco Restaurants and pubs 10 Trattoria Bandierette 11 Osteria Alla Vedova 12 Da Rosa Salva

13 14 15 16 31

Trattoria alla Rivetta Pasticceria Tonolo Al Bacco Felice Taverna del Campiello Trattoria Rosa dei Venti

26 27 28 29 30 32 33

Hotels Hotel Bellini Hotel Santa Chiara Hotel Al Sole Boat Ave Maria Boat Vita Pugna Casa Sant’Andrea Venice Hotel Certosa

Ponte degli Scalzi

Maercato Ittico

Stazione Ferroviaria San Lucia

St ra

da N

San Giacomo dellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Orio

Santi Apostoli

Ospedale Civile

SAN CROCE 33 Piazzale Roma

Campo di San Polo

nz era

Can

Sco

Campo di San Margherita

al G

de ran

26 Campo S. Angelo

Palazzo Grassi

SAN MARCO

Campanile 4 Piazza di San Marco Piazetta

San Stefano

DORSODURO

24 19,20

7 10 29

Bacino della Stazione Marittima

SAN POLO

Giardino Papadopoli

San Nicolo

15 11

Ponte dellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Accademia

i La vran eri

Bacino di San Marco

Punta della Dogena

iud e

San Giorgio Maggiore

cca Le Zitelle

Cana

le de

Ca nal ed ella G

Dogana da Mar

San Trovaso

Sacca Fisola

Canal Grande

La Giu dec ca 22

Laguna Veneta

Venice The province of Venice includes not only the lagoon and the island city of Venice but also a relatively narrow coastal strip along the mainland. A small number of locals (14%) work in manufacturing, and even fewer (4.2%) in agriculture and fishing, while the vast majority (a whopping 60%) work in the tourist, commerce and service industries. Alongside Venice, the jewel in the crown, the Adriatic beaches with the holiday resorts of Lido di Venezia, Cavallino, Eraclea, Caorle and Bibione attract 36 million tourists every year, mainly in the summer months, who choose to spend their holidays in the province of Venice. In the 1920s and ’30s a new town with a port and industries, including shipyards and petrochemical plants, was built on the mainland. Many of Venice’s inhabitants preferred to live

THE PROVINCE OF VENICE IN FIGURES AREA: 2,462 square kilometres INHABITANTS: 863,000 THE SIX LARGEST TOWNS (IN TERMS OF POPULATION) ARE: Venice: 271,000 Chioggia: 50,700 San Donà di Piave: 41,600 Mira: 39.000, Mirano: 27,100 Spinea: 27,050

Bolzano

ITALIA

Belluno Trento

Pordenone

Vicenza

Jesenice Udine

Ljubljana

Gorizia

Treviso

Padova Rovigo Ferrara

VENEZIA Venezia

SLOVENIA

Trieste

Golfo di Venezia

Rijeka CROAZIA Pula

and work in these new towns, and Porto Marghera and Mestre flourished. Young people found employment, city life with all its diversity and a wealth of sporting and leisure facilities that could not be found in the romantic lagoon city with its gondolas, canals, and vaporetti... ... and no commercial centres or large markets. Exorbitant rents and property prices are another good reason for turning one’s back on Venice’s glittering façade. The population of Venice has been falling for decades, now: in the 1950s there were still 130,000 people living in the island city, but now there are only 60,000 stalwarts. Just over 210,000 live in the towns on the mainland, which together with Venice proper make up the whole municipality of greater Venice. The wealth of art treasures and things to see in Venice and the surrounding area means that even the most comprehensive guide could offer only a sketchy outline of the town. Our little guide can therefore only provide a few tips for a fleeting visit. We know that our readers are cyclists, who love to travel light and will only need a general, overall impression. For a more detailed picture, you will need to spend at least three days in Venice, and good travel books about Venice are readily available in many different languages. TOURIST OFFICE www.turismovenezia.it 4421 Castello, Palazzina del Santo, San Marco–Giardini Ex Reali

Other locations: Santa Lucia railway station; Piazzale Roma; ASM (road) bus terminus Tel. 041 5298711

F r o m Ve n i c e t o Po r e cˇ

A potted history VENICE

THE ROMAN PERIOD In 181 BCE Aquileia was founded on the

coast to the north-east of Venice as a Roman city and administrative centre for the coastal region. In 42 BCE the port town of Altino was established in the lagoon. This was the start of the Via Claudia Augusta Altinate, the paved military and trading road that runs through Feltre, Trento, Merano, the upper valley of the Adige River, and then goes over the Passo di Resia between the valleys of the Adige and Inn rivers and over the Fern Pass towards Germany and Augsburg. In about 400 CE, a series of settlements (Altino, Concordia Sagittaria, Aquileia, Oderzo and Padua) sprang up along the mainland around the lagoon, which they used as a fishery. Legend has it that mainlanders fleeing before the invading Huns founded Venice on 25 March, 421 CE. THE BARBARIAN INVASION DURING BYZANTINE RULE After the fall of Rome, the Longobards occupied the mainland in 568. Byzantium retained control of the province of Venetia, that is the coastal strip, lagoon and islands. In 639 the Byzantines gave up Oderzo and, because of the frequent raids by Barbarian tribes, the inhabitants of the mainland retreated to the marshy, inhospitable yet easily-guarded islands of the lagoon. The church of Santa Maria, dedicated to the Virgin Mary was built on the island of Torcello. A dukedom under Byzantine sovereignty was established. According to tradition, Paoluccio Anafesto was appointed the first doge in the year 687 (the word doge derives from the Latin dux, or leader). THE REPUBLIC In 810 Pepin, the son of Charles the Great, tried

to conquer the lagoon. The attempt ended in failure when the inhabitants retreated to the Rialto Islands (rialto means riva alta or high, firm shore), and 811, the year in which Agnello Particiaco was elected doge, is considered to be the year when the Venetian Republic was founded. In 828 Venetian merchants in Alexandria stole the body of Saint Mark the Evangelist from Egypt and brought him to Venice. Work on Saint Mark’s Cathedral began the very next year, and Saint Mark replaced Saint Theodore as Venice’s patron saint. The winged lion, the symbol of Mark the Evangelist, was added to Venice’s coat of arms, asserting Venetian sovereignty.

The Venetians conquered Dalmatia in the year 1000, and was henceforth independent of Byzantium to all intents and purposes. In 1202 Venice took part in the Fourth Crusade, conquered Constantinople, the capital of Byzantium, and made off with the four gold-covered horses now adorning Saint Mark’s Cathedral. VENICE AT ITS ZENITH 1257–1270 Venice defeated its trading ri-

val, the city of Genoa. Twenty years later, after further skirmishes, Genoa confirmed its predominance in Liguria and Venice its predominance in the Orient. In 1347 a galley brought the plague to Venice from the Crimea and over half the population was killed. 1389–1420 Neighbouring city states submitted more or less voluntarily to Venetian sovereignty. The discovery of America in 1492 gradually led to a shift in trade and economic influence to the new maritime powers. When the sea passage to India was discovered, Venice became the centre of trade with the Far East and consolidated its dominant position. The Venetian Republic ruled over most of the Adriatic coasts, Dalmatia, Istria, several islands in the Aegean, Crete, Cyprus and Corfu. 1508–1515 In the wars with the League of Cambrai Venice had to defend itself against an alliance of numerous European powers. Though retaining most of its territory, it was nonetheless weakened by the conflict. The Turks continued to expand in the Eastern Mediterranean and raided neighbouring Friuli. In 1571 the Turks were defeated at Lepanto in a naval battle, but the victory was short lived.

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THE SLOW DECLINE Between 1644 and 1718 Venice lost its ter-

ritories in the eastern Mediterranean (Cyprus, Crete, the Peloponnese). The Serenissima was left with Istria, Dalmatia, the Ionian Islands and parts of Albania. In 1797 Ludovico Manin, the Republic’s last doge, handed Venice over to the French, thus proclaiming the end of the Venetian Republic. In 1815 Venice was assigned to Austria, and in 1841 the Austrians built the Mestre–Venice rail link, thus linking the city to the mainland. UNITED WITH ITALY In 1866 the Austrians were defeated at Sad-

owa by Italy’s ally Prussia. Following a plebiscite, Venice joined the fledgling Kingdom of Italy. In 1895 the first Biennale, the successful art exhibition, was held and in 1932 the first film festival was inaugurated. Since 2001 the Mo.S.E. project has attempted to provide protection against the constant risk of flooding. Seventy-eight gigantic movable dam modules will close the entrance of the Venice lagoon in the event of exceptionally high tides. It must be said

VENICE ON THE INTERNET WWW.ACTV.IT Home page of the public transport authority with timetables and fares. WWW.CHORUSVENEZIA.ORG Organisation for promoting the religious buildings of Venice. Guided tours, events in seventeen churches. WWW.NATURA-VENEZIA.IT Members of this group organise nature-inspired holidays in Venice, boat trips on the lagoon with ecologically-minded guides; also in English. WWW.COMUNE.VENEZIA.IT The city of Venice’s website with a fine tourism section; also in English.

events, bus and navigation timetables, and things to see; also in English. WWW.VISITMUVE.IT The city’s museums introduce themselves. They range from the Doge’s Palace to the lace museum on the island of Burano. Tickets can also be purchased online; also in English. WWW.COMUNE.VENEZIA.IT/FLEX/ CM/PAGES/SERVEBLOB.PHP/L/IT/ IDPAGINA/893 Webcam coverage of Saint Mark’s Square.

WWW.VENICECONNECTED.COM/DE A lot of useful (and some arguably less useful) information about Venice, from how to organise a wedding to the location WWW.HELLOVENEZIA.IT of public conveniences, Wi-Fi points, etc.; Homepage of the public transport authori- also in English. ties with a lot of useful information about

that this complex system is as expensive as it is controversial. Everything seems to have already been written about Venice, including its cats, lions, bridges, canals, islands, palazzi, fountains, legends, carnival, more than one hundred doges, victories and losses, illustrious visitors and much more besides. It is therefore hardly possible to report anything much that is new and exciting. Our advice is therefore to do away with fixed schedules and definite destinations. As it’s virtually impossible to really, really lose your way on the island, just let yourself be enchanted by the city’s architecture, light, sounds and smells. When you leave you will experience a yearning to return and uncover other faces of Venice!

Getting there Venice was once completely cut off from the mainland, but it can now be reached by car, train and bus. A long bridge links the city on the lagoon to the mainland. Buses and trains go directly to the Grand Canal – getting there could not be simpler. Just a few metres further on you will come to the vaporetto stop (vaporetto means “little steam boat”, even though the boats are now diesel-driven). The vaporetto is the public transport for the canals of Venice. Make sure you get the right ticket: 7 Euro for a single, one-way trip, but there are other tickets that provide unlimited access to vaporetti for a set period (you can get a 12hour ticket for 18 Euro, a 24-hour for 20 Euro and a 36-hour ticket for 25 Euro). For further information: www.actv.it

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Small Venice phrase book VENICE

THE GONDOLA This asymmetrical, slim, shiny black boat that is

rowed by a gondolier who stands facing forwards is one of the hallmarks of Venice. The metal ornamentation on the bow has the following meaning: the helmet-shaped tip symbolises the Corno Ducale, or the doge’s crown; the six metal tongues that point forwards like spikes represent the city’s six districts, known as sestieri; the spike pointing towards the stern is the Giudecca archipelago. A 40-minute round trip in a gondola costs at least 80 Euro but a gondola can take up to six passengers, which of course brings the price per person down. Agree on the journey time and price before getting in the gondola because the trip might otherwise get rather pricey! You can pay less for the adventure of crossing the Grand Canal in a gondola; crossing the Grand Canal in the public gondola, called the traghetto costs just 0.50 Euro. Venice has plenty of vaporetto stops and the furthest and therefore longest crossing goes from San Tomà to Sant’Angelo. THE CITY OF ISLANDS Venice is built on more than 100 islands,

and boasts 150 canals and 400 bridges. A canal is called a rio, a road or alley a calle,, a square is a campo, a small square a

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THE CITY OF BELL TOWERS AND CAMPANILI A book from the end

of the nineteenth century counted 178 campanili and bell towers in Venice. The largest is the campanile in Saint Mark’s Square. At an impressive 99 metres, it is Italy’s third-tallest after Cremona’s (111 metres) and the Torre del Mangia in Siena (102 metres). There was a tower here back in the ninth century which was apparently built over Roman foundations. The original campanile was rebuilt and partially destroyed by lightening and finally, in 1513, given its present shape and size. In July 1902 the tower unexpectedly developed large cracks and collapsed on the fourteenth of the month (fortunately there were no victims). Just one year later it was rebuilt, the mayor pronouncing the famous words “dov’era dov’era e com’era”, com’era (“where it was and the way it was”). Visitors must take the lift up to the balcony at the top of the campanile (8 €). THE LAGOON The lagoon measures about 500 square kilometres and is a shallow, almost landlocked sea. A narrow strip of land with a few openings (at Porto di Lido, Malamocco and Chioggia) separates the waters of the lagoon from the open Adriatic. Every six hours, with the ebb and flow of the tide, water flows from the sea into the lagoon and out again, thus ensuring that the water changes. Major rivers such as the Piave, Sile, Brenta and Adige have been diverted and channelled and no longer flow into the lagoon but into the sea because (by now their sediment would have filled the lagoon had they not been diverted). The canals of Venice are dredged regularly to stop them from filling up with mud and sludge. All the houses in the lagoon are built on stilts, mostly larch or oak, that are pressed through the shallow layer of mud into a firmer layer known as the caranto. The lagoon is criss-crossed by a network of somewhat deeper water courses marked by posts (bricole), and boats that do follow these routes run aground. In addition to the islands on which Venice stands, about twenty other islands in the lagoon are also inhabited, many by just a few families or even a handful of monks in a monastery. The most picturesque island is Burano, where the gaily painted houses that used to be homes to fishermen line the bank of the canal. Murano is the centre for glass

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campiello, and a footpath or wide pavement along the canal is known as a riva or fondamenta.

production. The Lido (the narrow island separating the lagoon from the Adriatic) is famous for its beautiful beach and Film Festival. The cemetery is located on the island of San Michele, and other islands are dedicated to vegetable gardens. The waters of the lagoon are full of fish, and Venetians have their own fishing methods – in the remote channels and waters of the lagoon large flat nets (bilance ((bilance), bilance are suspended in the water and periodically pulled up. THE “SCHOOLS” OR FRATERNITIES Groups of merchants or craftsmen formed fraternities or guilds known as Scuole, or schools, each with its own patron saint. These guilds amassed great wealth, found business for their members and built magnificent houses. Tintoretto was a member of the fraternity of Saint Rocco (the Scuola Grande di San Rocco), and adorned its Renaissance palace and church with fifty-six magnificent panel paintings. LANDSCAPE The old town of Venice consists of a multitude of

islands in the middle of the Venice lagoon, but larger islands and the mainland actually account for 83% of the surface area of the municipality of Venice. Until 1846, when the railway bridge was completed by the Austrians, the old town was completely cut off from the mainland. The railway bridge was later

joined by Ponte della Libertà (literally “freedom bridge”, 1933), which provided a road link for motor vehicles between Mestre and Piazzale Roma. From the air, the old town looks like a fish whose tail points east. This central part of the city is divided into six sestieri (sixths): Dorsoduro, Santa Croce, San Polo, San Marco, Cannaregio and Castello. There are myriad canals running through the city, but the most important are the Grand Canal (Canal Grande) and Canale della Giudecca. The former divides the city into two halves and is shaped like a back-tofront S; the latter divides the city centre proper from the Iisland of Giudecca ito the south. This is where the incredibly large cruise ships enter Venice to dock at Venice’s port, the Stazione Marittima, each ship disgorging thousands of visitors. The superstructures and funnels that dwarf the houses and palazzi of the city offer a strange spectacle and fuel debates about how many tourists the city can cope with. Until the railway and road bridges were built, the city could only be reached by water, which is why the façades of the most important palazzi all face the water.

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Sights worth seeing You will have to pick and choose, as there are just too many important art and cultural treasures in a really confined space crying out to be noticed. We shall limit ourselves to the few highlights that can be visited in the course of a day. CANAL GRANDE 1 The Venetians affectionately call it the canal-

azzo,, or ugly old canal. It was the watercourse along which goods and people had to pass. From the fifteenth to the eighteenth centuries gleaming palaces sprang up and now reflect the entire stylistic repertoire from Gothic to Renaissance and Baroque, whereby everything is lent a touch of typical Venetian playfulness. The construction of various bridges (Ponte degli Scalzi, Accademia, Rialto and, last but not least, the bridge by the famous modernist architect Santiago Calatrava from the railway station to the main bus station of Piazzale Roma) emphasises the increasing importance of pedestrian traffic in relation to boat traffic. SAINT MARK’S SQUARE 2 When people talk about Venice they inevitably think of Saint Mark’s Square, the heart of the city and the symbol of the Venetian Republic. It is the only square in the city called a piazza rather than campo. In the east it is bounded by the impressive complex of Saint Mark’s Cathedral and the Doge’s Palace. The 99-metre tall campanile dominates the middle of the square. On the canal bank, two large pillars mark the entrance to the city from the sea. Today’s square is the result of a thousand years of endless restructuring and im-

position of different styles (from the Byzantine Gothic of the cathedral to the neo-Classicism of the Napoleonic Procuratie), all contributing to create a harmonious whole. The square can best be appreciated from the top of the campanile or from the terrace of Saint Mark’s Cathedral. Anyone visiting Venice eventually comes to Saint Mark’s Square, so it is therefore always crowded. Formerly, having a photo taken while feeding the pigeons was a must, but feeding the pigeons is now forbidden because their droppings seriously damage the historic buildings. If you can bear the exorbitant prices of the espressos and drinks in the square, you can sit at the tables of one of the beautiful cafés and enjoy the atmospheric bustle. 3 This has always been Venice’s main place of worship and stands at the centre of the city’s public and religious life. The first church to be dedicated to Saint Mark was built in 828 next to the Doge’s Palace and housed the remains of Saint Mark the Evangelist, which are said to have been removed from Alexandria by merchants. The cathedral was rebuilt several times after fires in the tenth and thirteenth centuries. The church’s wonderful golden mosaics date back to before the twelfth century and measure an incredible 4,200 square metres. In the centuries that followed, the cathedral was decorated even more lavishly with columns, friezes, sculptures, and marble and gold objects, which sometimes found their way into the ships of the Venetian merchants in a somewhat unorthodox manner. The basilica is laid out as a Greek cross with five cupolas. The floor mosaics are also magnificent (they are now partially covered by carpets and raised walkways to protect them). The high altar houses the bones of Saint Mark. You will need to buy a ticket to view the church treasures of Saint Mark’s marble throne and the golden Pala d’Oro or altarpiece, which is decorated with jewels, pearls and enamel. The cathedral treasure also has a crypt and four goldcovered bronze horses from Constantinople that for hundreds of years stood on the terrace of the basilica and were then replaced by copies after restoration.

SAINT MARK’S CATHEDRAL

Admittance to the basilica is free, but a ticket is required to visit the cathedral treasure and Pala d’Oro (3 Euro and 2 Euro, respectively). Admittance to the loggia of Saint Mark’s basilica with its fine view over Saint Mark’s Square is 4 Euro.

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THE DOGE’S PALACE 4 This is the greatest Venetian Gothic building, symbol of the power of the Venetian Republic, the seat of the doges and Venice’s Council and Senate Chambers. Today it houses the city museum, the Museo Civico di Palazzo Ducale. It started off in the ninth century as a castle and was then continuously extended. It was destroyed by fire several times, but always rebuilt. The two filigree rows of arcades give it its distinctive appearance. On the first floor you will find the Loggia that runs around the building. The museum contains countless masterpieces from the greatest of Renaissance artists (Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese, Bellini, Carpaccio, Bosch). From the first floor of the east wing the famous Bridge of Sighs crosses a little canal and connects the Doge’s Palace to the prisons, the Prigioni Nuove. It was from here that Giacomo Casanova made his daring escape in 1756. Mid March to 2 November 9am–7pm (no admittance after 6pm). The San Marco Museum Plus ticket costs 13 Euro and gives you admittance to the Doge’s Palace, the Correr Museum, the Archeological Museum, the Marciana Library and one more city museum.

RIVA DEGLI SCHIAVONI 5 This popular promenade along the extended curved quay that runs from Saint Mark’s Square eastwards to Rio della Ca’ di Dio owes its name to traders from Slavonia who tied their boats here to ply their trade. Today’s tourists thronging around the souvenir stands and landing stages of the ferries in no way detract from the wonderful view

of the island of San Giorgio Maggiore. Canaletto’s eighteenthcentury vedute show that ships were mooring on this bank even then and that the Riva degli Schiavoni was full of gondolas, sailing ships and barges. The famous hotels Danieli e Gabrielli and the house where Henry James stayed in Venice are also along this promenade. At the end of it, at the corner of Calle Vallaresso (at number 1323), you can pop into the celebrated Harry’s Bar where Orson Welles, Truman Capote and Ernest Hemingway also sipped, or rather knocked back, their drinks. This is where the cocktail Bellini (prosecco and peach brandy) is said to have been created in honour of the painter Giovanni Bellini. RIALTO 6 In this area, which was originally the centre of Venice

and hosted the food market, there has always been a bridge over the canal. The first was a pontoon bridge, which was then replaced by a wooden bridge with two rising ramps and a movable central section to let the boats through. Today’s Rialto bridge is a single-span stone bridge over the canal, and was built in the second half of the sixteenth century. Both ramps of the bridge are lined with shops fronted by arcades. A fruit and vegetable market (Erberia) and a fish market (campo della Pescheria) are held daily and are one of the city’s favourite tourist attractions.

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MUSEUMS

Murano), the Museo del Merletto (the lace museum on the island of Burano); the Museo di Storia Naturale (the natural history museum). For more information, call the tollfree number 848082000 (only from Italy) or visit www.vivaticket.it and go “Venezia – art – Civic museum of Venice”.

MUSEUM PASS Unfortunately, there is no general pass for all of Venice’s museums. A combined ticket for the city museums costs 24.50 Euro and provides admittance to the four museums in Saint Mark’s Square (Palazzo Ducale, Museo Correr, Museo Archeologico Nazionale and the Sale Monumentali della Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana) and another city museum of your choice, such as Ca’ Rezzonico Museo del Settecento Veneziano (dedicated to eighteen-century Venice), Casa di Carlo Goldoni (the home of the playwright Goldoni), Museo di Palazzo Mocenigo, Ca’ Pesaro, the Galleria Internazionale d’Arte Moderna + Museo d’Arte Orientale, the Museo del Vetro (the glass museum on the island of

7 GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA www.gallerieaccademia.org 1050 Dorsoduro, in Campo della Carità, tel. 041 5200345, Tuesdays–Sundays 8.15am– 7.15pm, Mondays 8.15am–2pm; 6.50 Euro. Prices may vary for special exhibitions. Venice’s most important art gallery is at the foot of the Ponte dell’Accademia and takes its name from the Accademia delle Belle Arti, or academy of fine art, that was opened in 1817 and located here until 2004. Since it was founded (1750) the Accademia has acquired works of art for teaching purposes or to restore them. The collection includes sculptures, drawings and Leonardo da Vinci’s famous Vitruvian Man (on display only on special occasions), and especially art from the fourteenth to eighteenth centuries, including works by Carpaccio, Bellini, Veronese, Canaletto, Giorgione, Mantegna, Piero della Francesca, Tintoretto and Titian. 8 PEGGY GUGGENHEIM COLLECTION www.guggenheim-venice.it 704 Dorsoduro, tel. 041 2405411, Daily 10am–6pm, closed Tuesdays; 12 Euro Until 1979, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni

was the Venetian home of the American collector and patron Peggy Guggenheim. It houses an important collection of modern European and American works, including Mondrian, Klee, Miró, Magritte, De Chirico, Picasso, Kandinsky, Brancusi, Duchamp and Pollock; the garden also contains sculptures by other artists. The remarkable selection of the twentieth-century collector Gianni Mattioli includes the most important names of Italian Futurism (Sironi, Carrà, Soffici and Rosai), as well as many Morandis and a wonderful portrait by Modigliani. It can be reached via the Ponte dell’Accademia and is on the south bank of the Grand Canal. 9 SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it 3052 San Polo, tel. 041 5234864,

daily 9.30am–5.30pm, no admittance after 5pm; 8 Euro The church and the palazzo of prosperous Venetians belonging to the fraternity of San Rocco were built in the years 1508 and 1560. The inner rooms were decorated only by Tintoretto and his pupils and work began in 1564. The palazzo and picture collection are well preserved and are one of Venice’s greatest attractions. The Sala dell’Albergo is particularly impressive. The marvellous cycle of the teleri,, the wall paintings on canvas in the three halls on the ground floor, constitutes a unified whole comparable to the cycle in Rome’s Sistine Chapel. On 16 August each year there is a traditional procession in honour of Saint Rocco, to whom the people of Venice turned for protection from the plague in the sixteenth century.

Eating and drinking A LOT OF FISH AND A HOST OF DESSERTS Venetian cuisine is of

course characterised by fish, which is mostly accompanied by polenta, especially the little seppioline or squid. Bisato (pickled eel) is also popular. Starters include not only the ever present pasta dishes but also rice dishes. Typical fare includes sarde in saor (sardines cooked with onions and vinegar and eaten cold or lukewarm as a light starter), risi e bisi (rice with peas), fegato alla Veneziana (liver cooked in the Venetian manner with lots of onions), black squid risotto and cicheti, tasty starters similar to Spanish tapas that are eaten as appetisers or with an aperitif. Venice is also famous for all sorts of biscuits and sweetmeats, which include baicoli and pan del pescatore, a sweet flat cake made with almonds and pistachios, crema fritta (baked custard), bussolai from the island of Burano (s-shaped or round butter biscuits), crostoli that are eaten during Carnival, fregolotta (a cake with almonds made with short pastry), a milk pudding called rosada and yellow polenta biscuits known as zaleti.

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EATING AND DRINKING

10 TRATTORIA BANDIERETTE 6671 Castello, Barbaria delle Tole, tel. 041 5220619, closed Tuesdays, www.bandierette.it The good, reasonably priced fish menu and the friendliness of the hosts make this place the ideal location for eating in good company.

OSTERIA ALLA VEDOVA – CA’ D’ORO 3912 Cannaregio, tel. 041 5285324, closed Sundays for lunch and all day Thursdays. Though very popular, this osteria is still authentically Venetian; the counter is always groaning with snacks such as small fried fish, stuffed vegetables, baccalà (salt cod) and prawns on skewers. 11

12 DA ROSA SALVA 951 San Marco, in Calle Fiubera, tel. 041 5210544, open daily, www.rosasalva.it Just three minutes from Saint Mark’s Square, go under the clock into the thoroughfare called the Mercerie, take the left, go over a small bridge and turn into Calle Fiubera. This is a traditional pasticceria and snack bar. You can eat round the clock: fresh, deliciously succulent tramezzini (small triangular sandwiches made with white bread), hot starters and wonderful desserts. You can also eat at open-air tables without any extra service charge, which is highly unusual in Venice.

13 TRATTORIA ALLA RIVETTA 4625 Castello, tel. 041 5287302 Near Saint Mark’s Square, east of the basilica, coming from Calle delle Rasse, on the bridge to Campo San Provolo. The only drawback is that the premises are tiny and there’s always a bit of a fight for the few tables. Get there early! 14 PASTICCERIA TONOLO 3764 Dorsoduro, tel. 041 5237209, closed Mondays A small, fine pasticceria with a great tradition and an enormous cake counter. Their bomboloni alla crema (puffs filled with confectioner’s custard) are rightly feted. 15 AL BACCO FELICE 197/e Santa Croce, tel. 041 5287794, open every day The very name (literally, “the happy Bacchus”) is enticing. They do not just serve pizza but also good, quick dishes. The service is friendly and attentive, the surroundings modern and the prices reasonable. Conveniently near the bus and train stations. 16 TAVERNA DEL CAMPIELLO REMER 5701 Cannaregio, tel. 041 5228789, closed Tuesdays Not far from the Rialto bridge, this bacaro offers a plentiful lunchtime buffet at a reasonable fixed price. Though taken by storm by young people in the late afternoon for the happy hour aperitif, by 7.30pm the tempest has passed. The evening restaurant is good, but not cheap. Good view over the Grand Canal.

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The easiest way to get to Venice from Mestre is by train or bus (buses, especially, are very frequent, and there’s even a very good night service). Both the train and bus will take you to Venice, where vaporetti, vaporetti or water buses, leave for different destinations in the lagoon and the city proper. Our tip: take a vaporetto to Saint Mark’s Square (either from the boat stops in front of the railway station if you’ve come by train, or at the foot of the new Calatrava bridge if you’ve come from Mestre by bus), and then walk back. The number 1 vaporetto stops at all the boat stops, which is fun but lasts ages, so we suggest you catch the number 2 vaporetto, which only makes a few stops takes about half an hour to get to Saint Mark’s Square. During the journey along the sshaped, 3.8-kilometre canal you will sail past the most beautiful palazzi and come across all sorts of traffic, including barges transporting vegetables, removal-van barges, barg-

es lugging building materials and, every so often, a stylish pleasure boat or one of the smart looking water taxis. Even the police get around by boat. On Saint Mark’s Square, dubbed by Napoleon “Europe’s drawing room”, the finest buildings lined up before us: the Doge’s Palace, Saint Mark’s Basilica and the campanile. You are literally spoilt for choice: art lovers will go to the Doge’s Palace and wander through the museum, and visiting the magnificent church with its gold mosaics is free. People keen to take in a breathtaking view of the city can take the lift up to the top of the campanile, look down on Venice and scout for the neighbouring islands and the island strip of the Lido. On clear days you can see as far as the mountains in the northwest. A small snack (cicheto) such as half a hardboiled egg, sardines, cooked octopus, polenta and squid, washed down with a glass of wine, tastes best in the small bars or

bacari in the little side streets. The places on the canal are certainly picturesque but they are mostly on the dear side and you will hardly ever meet Venetians there, but almost always only other tourists. Locals do not take their aperitif (usually an orange-red spritz) or espresso in the really expensive cafés on Saint Mark’s Square but in the small bars in the little calli off the main thoroughfares. But if you want to go to the historic, and very expensive, Café Florian in Saint Mark’s Square and enjoy the plush seats, fine wooden and glass decor, feel free. And a tip for the etiquette-conscious: cappuccino or latte macchiato washes down your breakfast croissant (which the locals also call brioche, and rarely cornetto), and Italians usually only have one in the morning, after which they will stick to espressos or

caffè macchiato (an espresso with a drop of milk). Thus fortified, you can make your way back to the station. The best thing is to move away from the hordes of people and just drift – the many signposts, and especially the stream of people, will get you back to your starting place later on, when you need to. And if you let yourself drift, you will get a glimpse of every-day life in Cannaregio, the most heavily populated part of Venice, at close quarters. The same goes for the city’s typical food and bars: the further you move away from the streams of tourists, the more genuine and unworriedly Venetian it gets. But always remember that Venice is an expensive city, and the prices (for souvenirs, clothes, shoes, jewellery, glass and food) are rather higher than on the nearby mainland (Mestre). Now enjoy!

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, February–March: Venice Carnival: see and be seen. The carnival has been celebrated since the eleventh century with a fantastic masked party in the streets, on the bridges and along the canals. On Saturdays and Sundays there will be an almost impossible throng, while other days it is quieter and more relaxed. In the evening, performances and concerts are held in the most important campielli (small squares) and Saint Mark’s Square. , April: Su e zo per i ponti – The race, known as “Up and down over the bridges”, takes place throughout the city on a Sunday in the middle of April. , May: Vogalonga – A rowing regatta in the second half of May. Anyone with an oar to their name can take part. , July: Festa del Redentore – The city’s feast dedicated to the so-called “redeemer” celebrates delivery from the longest of the plagues to hit Venice. It is a gigantic spectacle with fireworks, a procession, masses and concerts, and, of course, lots of eating and drinking. On the third Sunday in July. , End of August–September: International Film Festival. Festival Since 1932 this festival has been a key event for cinema and the film world, and every year it attracts actors, celebrities, fans and film buffs from all over the world to the Venice Lido. , September: Regata storica – the most important rowing regatta on the Grand Canal (and the world’s oldest) takes place on the first Sunday in September. Riviera Fiorita: a procession winds its way from Stra to Mira to commemorate the meeting of the doge with the king of France in 1574. The banquet is held in Mira in front of the Villa Contarini dei Leoni. www.rivierafiorita.it

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EVENTS

The Venice lagoon islands MURANO Murano is famous for its glass production, but this

densely built-up island is also well worth a visit in its own right. Narrow canals, beautiful bridges and houses, a few old palazzi and villas, flower-filled gardens, and interesting churches are only some of the sights. Other things worth seeing are the Museo Vetrario (or the glass museum) with its permanent collection of historical glassware and temporary exhibits. For a long time Venice more or less monopolised the production of glass, and Venetian artefacts were considered the most valuable in the known world. Due to the fear of fires, glassblowers and their workshops were moved from Venice to the group of five small islands of Murano. Forty-five firms are still currently operating on the island, where items of great artistic value are produced alongside cheaper souvenir items to meet the needs of tourists. Beware offers of a boat trip including a factory visit! Visit the collections in the museum first to get an overall idea. Its dominant position directly overlooking the waterfront of Fondamenta Giustinian makes the seventh-century church of Santa Maria and Donato a very special monument. The church was redesigned in the first half of the twelfth century, when the magnificent floor mosaic was created in colourful marble and

stones with floral motifs. The Byzantine mosaics in the apse as well as the sarcophagus containing the relics of Saint Donatus are quite remarkable Opening times: 9.00–12.00am, 4.00–6.00pm

One of the attractions of Murano is the historical collection in the former episcopal Palazzo Giustiniani, where precious glass from archaeological findings can be seen along with glass artefacts from all the most important eras up to the modern day. Museo Vetrario di Murano The museum is open from 10.00am to 6.00pm throughout summer. 8, Fondamenta Giustinian, tel. 041 739586, www.museovetro.visitmuve.it

BURANO Near Torcello lies the densely built-up and populated island of Burano. On their arrival, visitors are immediately struck by the bright colours of the houses, whose façades are painted in all hues imaginable. The ultimate effect is extremely vivacious, and by no means corny. The colour of the houses has a long tradition on the island. Burano is a popular day-trip destination for many visitors, and the island’s inhabitants (around 500 people) patiently put up with the wave of tourists. The icecream parlours, cafés, and restaurants are very pleasant and very well kept.

BURANO LACE

Lace production was once the main business in Burano. From the sixteenth to the eighteenth century it was considered an absolute luxury item, an indispensable fashion accessory, and an expression of wealth. The thirteenth-century Palazzo del Podestà houses the lace museum: Museo del Merletto April–October Tuesdays–Sundays 10.00am–6.00pm, 187 Piazza Galuppi, tel. 041 730034, www.museomerletto.visitmuve.it

THE VENICE LAGOON ISLANDS

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THE VENICE LAGOON ISLANDS

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Another curiosity well worth visiting is the church of San Martino with its leaning campanile overlooking Piazza Galuppi, the largest square on the island. You’ll see it as soon as you land. The church also accommodates an early painting by the famous Venetian artist Giovanni Battista Tiepolo (1696–1770) in the chapel of Saint Barbara. MAZZORBO Just around the corner from Burano lies Mazzorbo. The island was once full of vegetable gardens, but now you’ll find just a handful of fishermen’s houses, a few churches, fruit orchards, and vineyards. This very large island is home to only a few hundred people, most of whom are employed in the tourism trade on Burano. Mazzorbo is directly connected with Burano by means of a wooden bridge and you can also take a promenade and walk all around the island. TORCELLO Anyone who visits Torcello will be greeted by the tall Romanesque tower of the basilica of Santa Maria Assunta, even well before you land. The importance of this island is in fact due to this church, which dates back to 1008 and is the first religious centre of the entire lagoon. The valuable mosaics, which depict a Madonna and a frieze of the apostles, are well worth a visit. The short walk along the narrow canal offers a beautiful view of the meadows, shrubs and small, gaily coloured houses. The path leads past restaurants (including the famous Cipriani, where Hemingway himself stopped for a bite and a bit of inspiration for his novel Across the River and Into the Trees)) and souvenir shops, finally reaching the square facing the church of Santa Fosca, a central-plan building dating back to the eleventh century and encircled by a colonnade. Tradition has it that the relics of Saint Fosca were brought here from Libya around the year 1000 and this impressive martyr’s grave, the church itself, was erected in her honour. The history of Torcello dates back to ancient times, and the latest research shows the existence of a Roman villa from the year 100 CE. In the tenth century, around 10,000 people lived on the island of Torcello, which was larger and more influential than Venice. Today the island boasts a mere twenty inhabitants. SANT’ERASMO Sant’Erasmo is the largest island in the Venetian

lagoon and lies to the north. It was named after Erasmus of

Antioch, a Catholic bishop and martyr, who was born in Antioch around 240 CE and died in 303 in Formiae. Due to its vicinity to the Lido, the entrance into the lagoon, this island was once considered to be of great strategic importance. Now, however, it is of utmost importance for the cultivation of vegetables, and is known as “the garden of Venice”. Crops include many varieties of lettuce, tomatoes, bell peppers, cucumbers, beans, and celery. The island’s spareselle (very thin green asparagus) and castraure di Sant’Erasmo (tender young artichokes) are rightly famous. The quality of the artichokes, enriched by the salty air and a special soil, is famous. There is also a variety of artichoke which is grown only here – the carciofo violetto di Sant’Erasmo – which was elected by the Slow Food Organisation as a local speciality. The artichoke heart is particularly prized and the castraure are a delicacy of the local cuisine. On the southern tip of the island stands the round Torre Massimiliana, a brick tower which, together with the Forte Sant’Andrea fortification on the opposite island of Le Vignole,

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blocked the entrance into the lagoon. It was built by the Austrians in 1843–1844 and named after Archduke Maximilian Joseph of Austria-Este, who is alleged to have sought refuge here during riots against the Austrian occupation of Venice. Sant’Erasmo can be reached by public transport 13 vaporetto line, via Murano

SAN FRANCESCO DEL DESERTO From Burano

it is possible to reach the charming, nearby island of San Francesco del Deserto. Its Franciscan monastery, surrounded by a thick cypress grove, is a true oasis of tranquillity and contemplation. The Franciscan monks accompany visitors through the old monastery and church themselves. Legend has it that Saint Francis of Assisi stayed here following a journey to the Holy Land to restore his spirits after the strain of the journey. Departure by boat: from the stop at Fondamenta della Pescheria. Monastery visit must be booked in advance: tel. 041 5286863. www.sanfrancescodeldeserto.it

SAN LAZZARO DEGLI ARMENI This is the perfect place for anyone interested in old city walls and culture, a beautiful abbey, an extensive library (200,000 volumes), rare manuscripts from the east, and a curious, motley collection with many valuable pieces, including an Egyptian sarcophagus and a mummy. San Lazzaro degli Armeni is a small island in the lagoon in close proximity to the Lido. The monastery, the mother house of the Mechitarists, has made the island one of the most important centres of Armenian culture in the world. San Lazzaro degli Armeni originally served as a hospital for lepers; when the plague abated at the end of the fifteenth century, the Dominican order moved and remained here for about one hundred years. In 1717, Armenian monks settled on the island seeking refuge from Sebasteia, today’s Sivas in their homeland Turkey, where they were persecuted by Muslim Ottomans. Admission with guide only, 3.25–5.25pm everyday, 6 Euro. Isola di San Lazzaro degli Armeni, tel. 041 5260104, 10/20 vaporetto line, departure from San Zaccaria at 3.10pm.

SAN SERVOLO This island was inhabited by Benedictine monks and nuns for almost 800 years. At the beginning of the eighteenth century, nuns of several orders who had fled from Crete and the Ottomans settled here. A few years later, the monastery was closed and a lunatic asylum was built, originally for the nobility but eventually for patients of any social class. In 1978, on the initiative of the enterprising Dr Basaglia, a revolutionary law was passed which prohibited the isolation of psychiatric patients, effectively leading to the closure of all psychiatric clinics and asylums, including the asylum on San Servolo. The island has since become home to the San Servolo IRSESC Foundation (which studies social and cultural exclusion), as well as the main offices of the Venice International University (VIU), the training centre for project planning of the Italian Association AICCRE, and a temporary home for students and/or international exchange projects. Since 2008, the island has also been home to a branch office of the Venetian academy of fine arts. Tel. 041 2765451, www.fondazionesanservolo.it; VIU, Venice International University, tel. 041 2719511, www.univiu.org

THE VENICE LAGOON ISLANDS

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ISOLA DELLA CERTOSA Isola della Certosa is one of the larger islands in the lagoon and, although very close to Venice, it is seldom visited by tourists and almost completely forgotten. In the twelfth century, the Augustinian canons founded a monastery here which was taken over by Carthusian monks and enlarged in the sixteenth century. The monastery was closed for good around the year 1800 with the French occupation, after which the area was used by the Italian army who set up an explosives processing facility. In 1958, however, all activities were abandoned and the unused site became overgrown with bushes and trees and goats roamed around freely. Only a minute part of the monastery is still extant. For some years, new life has been breathed into the island thanks to funding from the EU. Some of the undergrowth has been cleared and footpaths have been laid, and now the Isola della Certosa boasts a marina for leisure- and motor boats (Vento di Venezia Yachting Centre), a small repair yard as well as a park hotel with restaurant. Certosa Hotel, Isola della Certosa, tel. 041 2778632, www.venicecertosahotel.com At the landing stage on Isola della Certosa, from which it is possible to see the Canale delle Navi at the end of the long wooden jetty, there are vaporetto connections, lines 41 and 42, to Saint Markâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Square and to Fondamenta Nuove with further connections.

Venice Tour San Marco Your tour starts in front of the tourist office in Saint Mark’s Square near the landing stage of San Marco Giardinetti, where Canal Grande widens to form the Bacino di San Marco. On the south-western corner stands the small, neoclassical Coffeehouse pavilion, planned by the architect Lorenzo Santi between 1815 and 1817 and now used as a tourist information centre. Behind the building are the Giardinetti ex-Reali, a small plot of land set amidst the houses and canals which was used to create these former royal gardens at the time of Napoleon. With their benches for relaxing beneath the shady pergolas and the goldfish ponds, these gardens are a good, quiet place for a short rest just a stone’s throw from the hustle and bustle of Saint Mark’s Square. The most important sights are within easy

walking distance, across the quay by Saint Mark’s square: Palazzo Ducale 1 , Basilica di San Marco 2 , Campanile 3 , Museo Correr 4 and Ponte dei Sospiri 5 . In the western corner of Saint Mark’s Square there is an important shop worth seeing (although you won’t be able to buy anything), the Negozio Olivetti. That’s enough of the sights in Saint Mark’s Square: now let’s start on your tour, without forgetting to stop to see the famous Café Florian, at least from the outside. After passing the clock tower on the northern side of the square, turn into the Mercerie, past the Chiesa di San Zulian 6 across Calle San Basso into Calle Spadaria. The Pasticceria Marchini, at 676 San Marco in Calle Spadaria, is synonymous with sweet delicacies including all sorts of cakes and

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cookies plus a rich assortment of chocolates. At the end of the street, turn right before the church of San Zulian, cross the canal, enter Calle de la Guerra and then turn left down Salizada San Lio, past the church and Campo di San Lio, across another canal, the Calle della Bissa and Campo di San Bartolomeo until you reach the Fondaco (also called Fontego) dei Tedeschi 7 . The western side overlooks the Canal Grande, which is crossed on the left by the Ponte di Rialto 8 . Proceed alongside the canal and cross Campo San Bartolomeo then go down via Marzaria 2 Aprile until you reach Calle del Lovo. This will take you past delightful shops, cafés and sights such as the church of San Bartolomeo 9 , the church of San Salvador 10 and the Telecom Italia Future Centre 11 . After the Corte del Teatro, also known as the Teatro Carlo Goldoni 12 , turn left towards Campo San Luca and then further towards Campo Manin, and follow the signs pointing to Palazzo Contarini dal Bovolo 13 with the famous spiral staircase. Go across Campo Sant’Angelo, then a bridge and Calle dei Frati, until you reach Campo Santo Stefano. On the right stands the Puntolaguna building 14 in exposed brickwork, with the Gothic church of Santo Stefano 15 at the front side. Now turn right,

into Calle delle Botteghe (literally, “the alley of shops”) and then left down Salizada San Samuele and further on to Palazzo Grassi 16 , a grandiose, recently renovated eighteenth-century building. On your way back to Campo Santo Stefano you’ll come across a host of shops, cafés and restaurants which offer an inviting place to relax and contemplate. From Campo Santo Stefano proceed through a series of alleys which run parallel to Canal Grande, in the next street as it were, which take you back to Saint Mark’s Square. These calli are in turn named Spezier, Ostreghe, Larga 22 Marzo and San Moisé. There are several sights en route, for instance Palazzo Pisani 17 , which now houses the academy of music at the Campo Santo Stefano, and the church of Santa Maria del Giglio 18 (open Mondays–Saturdays, 10.00am–5.00pm) with a Baroque façade and valuable paintings, including works by Tintoretto and one attributed to Rubens. A short detour just a little further ahead to the left to see the Teatro la Fenice 19 , the famous opera house steeped in tradition, is well worth it. You are now in one of the most elegant shopping areas of Venice where it is difficult to resist the many temptations! To finish off the day in style, how about something really exclusive: a bellini in the legendary Harry’s Bar, where great personalities including Hemingway, Toscanini, Capote, Chaplin or Peggy Guggenheim once liked to stop off for a bite. Giuseppe Cipriani invented the recipe for this cocktail which is made with Prosecco and the juice of freshly squeezed white peaches. In spite of the extortionate prices, this eatery attracts a lot of visitors not only at mealtimes. The view from the first floor is fantastic.

SIGHTS AROUND SAINT MARK’S SQUARE

Palazzo Ducale Basilica di San Marco 3 Campanile 4 Museo Correr 5 Ponte dei Sospiri You are spoilt for choice. Admittance to the Basilica di San Marco is free but due to the long waiting time, it is worth making a reservation for a small fee which allows you to skip the queue. Under the link (also in English) www.basilicasanmarco.it, click on Programmare la visita in the menu to find the instructions for online reservations.

once a trading hall and warehouse for German merchants. 5343 San Marco, along Calle Fontego dei Tedeschi

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8 Rialto This stone bridge was built in the sixteenth century to replace a wooden bridge. It is lined with small workshops and retail outlets and forms one of the most picturesque sights in the whole of Venice. 9 Chiesa di S. Bartolomeo This church contains painted organ panels by Sebastiano del Piombo and paintings by Palma il Giovane. 5346 San Marco, along Salizada Pio X, open on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays 10.00am–noon.

6 Chiesa di San Zulian The building was planned by Jacopo Sansovino and contains paintings by Palma il Giovane and Paolo Veronese. 605 San Marco, in Campo San Zulian, open daily 9.00am–7.00pm.

10 Chiesa di San Salvador With the famous Annunciation painted by Titian. 4826 San Marco, in Campo San Salvador, open Mondays–Fridays 9.00am–noon, 3.00– 7.00pm, Sundays 3.00–7.15pm, June–August 4.00–7.00pm.

7 Fontego dei Tedeschi Until recently this magnificent square building housed the postal administration offices and is now owned by the Benetton family of entrepreneurs, who want to convert it into a department store. It has a portico on the ground floor (1505–1508) which was

11 Telecom Italia Future Centre In this former monastery with two cloisters and a refectory, a virtual tour with headphones will transport you into the past and the future of Venice. Open Tuesdays–Fridays, 10.00am– 6.00pm, Saturdays 10.00am– 7.00pm. Tel. 041 947770.

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13 Palazzo Contarini dal Bovolo The original building dates back to the fifteenth century. In local dialect, bovolo literally means “snail’s house”, which refers to the striking spiral staircase in the inner courtyard, which is surmounted by a cupola and features marble-clad vaults. 4299 San Marco, in Calle delle Locande, tel. 041 2719012; under restoration, otherwise open daily 10.00am–6.00pm

12 Teatro Goldoni One of the oldest theatres in Venice, named after the comedy playwright who was and still is very popular. 4650/b San Marco, in the Corte Teatro. For the theatrical programme see www.teatrostabileveneto.it, tel. 041 2402011

14 Puntolaguna This building houses an information centre dedicated to the safeguard of Venice and includes an exhibition, a library and multimedia material about the lagoon and its ecological system, as well as the safety measures taken. Campo Santo Stefano, tel. 041 5293582, open Mondays–Friday, 2.30–5.30pm

THE OLIVETTI SHOWROOM A NEGOZIO OLIVETTI 101 San Marco, in Saint Mark’s Square, tel. 041 5228387; guided tours and audio-guides (in Italian) Tuesdays–Sundays 11.00am–6.30pm, 5 Euro, www.negoziolivetti.it The great Venetian architect Carlo Scarpa (Venice 1906–Japan 1978) was commissioned in 1958 by the world’s leading typewriters producer, Olivetti, to redesign their showroom in Saint Mark’s Square. The building brings together many individual works of art and was recently restored to its original glory. The furniture and individual exhibits, including the Lettera 22 portable typewriter, the Lexikon 80 office

typewriter and the Divisumma 24 calculator, which are all on display as masterpieces of design at the MOMA in New York, take visitors back to a time when typewriters and calculators were essential items in the modern office.

15 Chiesa S.to Stefano A church with a splendid, richly ornate Gothic portal and several valuable paintings including three works by Tintoretto, which are preserved in the vestry. 2774 San Marco, in Campo Santo Stefano, tel. 041 2750462, open Mondays–Saturdays, 10.00am–5.00pm 16 Palazzo Grassi This is one of the most important exhibition venues of Venice where important temporary exhibitions of international standing are held on a constant basis. Palazzo Grassi is one of the last great palazzi built in the Republic of Venice before its downfall at the end of the eighteenth century. After an eventful history it was purchased by Gianni Agnelli, the president of the Fiat automotive industry, and after his death passed into the hands of French entrepreneur and art collector François Pinault. Pinault’s group of companies also owns brands such as Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent and Puma. 3231 San Marco, in Campo San Samuele, open daily 10.00am– 7.00pm, closed on Tuesdays. For information about the exhibition programme contact: tel. 041 2719039, www.palazzograssi.it

17 Palazzo Pisani This palazzo was commissioned at the time by the illustrious Pisani family, the same family which had the magnificent Villa Pisani built in Strà along the Brenta canal. The academy of music of Venice has been housed in the building since 1897. 2809 San Marco, in Campo Pisani, www.conseve.net 18 Chiesa Santa Maria del Giglio The façade of this church dates back to the Baroque period and inside there are several valuable paintings including works by Tintoretto and one attributed to Rubens. 2542 San Marco, in Campo Santa Maria del Giglio, tel. 041 2750462, open Mondays–Saturdays, 10.00am–5.00pm. 19 Teatro La Fenice This theatre was opened in 1792 and has burnt down a total of three times, most recently in 1996. It was reopened in 2003. For the theatrical programme contact the HelloVenezia call centre at 041 2424. Open to visitors daily from 9.30am–6.00pm, tel. 041 5298711, Campo San Fantin (Fondamenta Fenice), www.teatrolafenice.it

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VENICE TOUR 1

EATING AND DRINKING B CAFFÈ FLORIAN 56–59 San Marco, in Saint Mark’s Square, tel. 041 5205641, www.caffeflorian.com Prominent figures including Goethe, Wagner, Proust and many more have continued to pop in and out of this café since 1720. If you are willing to pay around 20 Euro for a croissant and a cappuccino, come on in! C OSTERIA ENOTECA SAN MARCO 1610 San Marco, in Calle Frezzaria, tel. 041 5285242, www.osteriasanmarco.it, closed on Sundays. This eatery has an excellent wine list and serves not only fish but also appetising meat and vegetable dishes in a neat, appealing environment. D ANIMA BELLA 956 San Marco, in Calle Fiubera, tel. 041 5227486

This tiny restaurant is located in a charming spot along a small canal close to a bridge and is not exactly cheap. E DA ROSA SALVA 951 San Marco, in Calle Fiubera, tel. 041 5210544, open daily, www.rosasalva.it Traditional pastry shop and snack bar offering food and drink around the clock: fresh triangular sandwiches made from sliced white bread with delicious fillings (tramezzini), ), warm starters, sumptuous desserts. Served on the patio without a service charge, very unusual for Venice. F PASTICCERIA MARCHINI 676 San Marco, in Calle Spadaria G HARRY’S BAR 1323 San Marco, in Calle Vallaresso, tel. 041 5285777, www.cipriani.com

Venice Tour Castello and Giardini Castello is the largest district (or sestiere)) of Venice and is the second largest in terms of density of population. The various islands of Venice give the city the shape of a fish and Castello forms the tail which juts out into the lagoon. For visitors arriving from the lagoon islands it is thus the nearest part of the city and can be reached quickly with the vaporetti. The Fondamenta Nove waterfront separates Castello from the lagoon to the north while Saint Mark’s Basin (Bacino di San Marco) lies to the south, with its broad promenades along the Riva degli Schiavoni, Riva dei Sette Martiri and Viale dei Giardini. The sailors and merchants of the Dalmatian coast, the Schiavoni or Slavoni, once had their landing stages and warehouses here. Today, this waterfront promenade is packed with tourists and lined with expensive hotels and a string of restaurants and

souvenir shops. The further away from Saint Mark’s Square you go, the quieter it becomes. On the far eastern side, in the area known as the Giardini, the hectic city atmosphere comes to an end and the park benches offer a welcome place for peaceful relaxation. The name castello (castle) on the other hand, comes from a fortress which in the early Middle Ages stood on the island of Olivolo, now known as San Pietro di Castello. In the Giardini district of Castello Venice shows the face of a very normal Italian town. There are no big art monuments here but by contrast, visitors do have the chance to see what “ordinary” daily life is like for Venetians. Pensioners sit on the garden benches to chat, dogs are taken for a walk, children tumble around in the playgrounds and despite the signs telling them not to,

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young boys scramble after footballs in the gardens, while along Via Garibaldi you’ll find quite normal grocery stores, pubs and bars where many of the locals hang out. Start your tour of the city from the Viale dei Giardini Pubblici, at the Biennale (or Giardini) vaporetto stop. Parallel to the quayside there are beautiful gardens and the largest in Venice, with monuments built to commemorate famous personalities; the Paradiso café is a good place for your first break. Since way back in 1895 the largest exhibition of modern art has taken place every two years in the Giardini della Biennale 1 . Meantime, although artworks are now displayed at different places throughout the city, the heart of the exhibition is still in the Giardini, with thirty national pavilions. Not far away, at the beginning of the Viale Garibaldi avenue, to the right, there are the Art Nouveau halls of the old greenhouse or serre,, which had become very rusty and were renovated and re-opened in summer 2010. A lovely café here offers an inviting place to sit and rest.

Walk along Viale Garibaldi until you reach Via Garibaldi. These two streets should not be confused: Viale is an avenue and refers to the road leading from the Giardini, while Via Garibaldi starts at Bacino di San Marco on the quay named Sette Martiri. In 1807, during the Napoleonic period, one of the canals here was filled with earth by the French occupants to make way for this road, which was supposed to lend the city an air of grandeur and elegance. It was named Via Eugenia in honour of Prince Eugène Beauharnais, the Viceroy of Italy at the time and the stepson of Napoleon. In 1866, when the Italian troops marched in, it was named after Giuseppe Garibaldi who played a crucial role in the unification of Italy and is commemorated by a monument at the entrance to the park. A market selling fruit, vegetables and fish is held along the street every morning. Coming from the Giardini, do not turn left into Via Garibaldi but right across the Fondamenta Sant’Anna, along the canal named Rio di Sant’Anna, across the wide Canale di San Pietro and then over Fondamenta de Quintavalle to

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the old, impressive church of San Pietro 2 on the island which bears the same name. Once you are back in Via Garibaldi, turn right at the end and cross over the Riva San Biagio waterfront promenade, past the Museo della Marina 3 . Anyone who wants to take it easy can take their pick at the icecream parlour Il Pinguino, on the corner of Riva San Biagio. To the right, across the Fondamenta dell’Arsenale and Fondamenta della Madonna, you then reach the entrance to the former shipyard area known as the Arsenale 4 . Here you can admire the magnificent portal of the Arsenale with its battlemented clock tower which stands in the corner, and one of the lions which stands to the far left, which were brought here in the seventeenth century as spoils of the war from the port of Piraeus. On the opposite side you’ll see the church of San Martino 5 , which was designed around 1540 by Renaissance architect and sculptor Jacopo Sansovino. Cross over Calle del Pestrin to reach the Campo Bandiera e Moro, passing the Trattoria dei Corazzieri on the way. This square is overlooked by the church of San Giovanni in Bragora 6 . The surrounding alleyways are packed with small shops and bars, especially in the Salizada del Pignater. Proceed down Salizada Sant’Antonio, cross over the Rio della Pietà and then the Salizada dei Greci until you come to the Scuola di San Nicolò dei Greci and the church of San Giorgio dei Greci 7 . This area provides visible evidence of the strong presence of the Greek Orthodox ethnic minority which lived here in the sixteenth century, outnumbered only by the Jews. Diagonally opposite, on the other bank of the small canal, there is the Scuola di San

Giorgio degli Schiavoni 8 . Continue along the Rio di San Lorenzo canal, then cross over a bridge and a wide alleyway until you reach the hospital. Anyone feeling a bit peckish will like the small Trattoria Bandierette: in alternative, the Osteria alla Staffa is also close by. The church of Santa Maria dei Derelitti or dell’Ospedaletto 9 is directly built onto the hospital complex. In the adjacent Campo SS. Giovanni e Paolo, Verrocchio’s bronze equestrian statue of Venetian army general Colleoni, atop a high pedestal, overlooks the numerous tables and chairs of the cafés and restaurants. The magnificent church of Saints Giovanni e Paolo 10 stands behind the monument. Around the corner, you then reach the Scuola Grande di San Marco 11 . The Rio dei Mendicanti canal in front of the hospital marks the border with the adjoining district of Cannaregio. Directly on the Ponte del Cavallo bridge, along the Calle Larga Giacinto Gallina, you’ll find the Ostaria al Ponte. Turn around and take the Calle Trevisana and Calle Lunga and enter Campo Santa Maria Formosa 12 , with the church bearing the same name. Opposite stands the

Palazzo Querini Stampalia 13 which houses a remarkable art gallery. From this point you are just a stone’s throw from Saint Mark’s Square but turn down Ruga Giuffa and Calle Corta Rotta with its host of pretty shops, and continue until you reach Fondaco dell’Osmarin. Within just a short radius you can find the right place to eat for all tastes and appetites: Alla Basilica, in an alley close to the Bridge of Sighs (or Ponte dei Sospiri). Not far away lies the Antica Sacrestia, while the Trattoria alla Rivetta is directly nearby, almost crouched beneath the bridge. Close by, in Calle delle Bande, you’ll see the restaurant Da Carletto. Continue on your way, turn right into the Campo San Provolo and come to the church of San Zaccaria 14 . You have now reached the Bacino di San Marco once more, go a few steps further to the right along the Riva degli Schiavoni, across the Ponte del Vin bridge and then to the next bridge, Ponte della Paglia. From here you’ll have a good view of the closed marble Bridge of Sighs which on the first floor connects the old prison with the new prison. From the bridge windows the captives would throw a last glance over the canal

and the island of San Giorgio in the Basin and let out a sigh… according to popular belief. Your day trip ends here, and you can take the vaporetto from the landing stage of San Zaccaria (near the Danieli Hotel) back to your starting point.

SIGHTS 1 Biennale For over a century the Biennale has been considered one of the world’s most prestigious exhibitions of modern art. The national pavilions in the Giardini are the core of the exhibition. Most of these pavilions have an extravagantly artistic design themselves. The Austrian pavilion, built in 1934, was the idea of Josef Hoffmann, a cofounder of the Viennese Secession while the Dutch pavilion was designed in 1954 by Gerrit Thomas Rietveld. In 1956 Alvar Aalto, a genius of modern Finnish architecture, designed the prefabricated wooden pavilion for his country, which was intended to be used for one exhibition only. Tel. 041 5218711, website in Italian and English: www.labiennale.org

2 Basilica di San Pietro This was once the episcopal cathedral and the residence of the bishop from the year 775 when he was still subordinate to the patriarchate of Grado, until 1807, when the episcopal seat was transferred to San Marco at the behest of Napoleon. The façade was designed in 1596 by the architect Andrea Palladio from Vicenza, while the campanile in white Istrian stone was built in 1482. The church has several good paintings, a mighty crucifix and a large, antique organ, in addition to the remarkable throne of Saint Peter (in the righthand aisle). According to popular belief, when he was the bishop of Antioch the holy Apostle sat on the throne which was later given to the Doge Pietro Tradonico as a gift by the Emperor of Byzantium. It is certainly the stele of an Islamic gravestone, as testified by an Arabic inscription. 70 Castello, open Mondays–Saturdays 10.00am–5.00pm. 3 Museo Storico Navale di Venezia This museum, which is dedicated to the naval history of Venice, is spread out over five storeys in a former granary. The exhibits are very impressive and include full-scale

vessels in addition to model ships. 2148 Castello, along Riva San Biasio, tel. 041 2441399, open Mondays– Fridays 8.45am–1.30pm, Saturdays until 1.00pm, www.marina.difesa.it/storiacultura/ ufficiostorico/musei/museostoricove/ Pagine/default.aspx 4 Arsenale The Arsenale covers a large part of the sestiere of Castello. Now, after over 200 years, the city of Venice has once again taken possession of the 470,000 square metres of the Arsenale and is working frantically on land reclamation plans. In this shipyard, which was the largest in the world for centuries, merchant vessels and galleys were built which established the supremacy and fame of Venice on the high seas around the globe. In the heydays of Venice up to a hundred galleys lay at anchor in this area where up to 16,000 people slaved away. It was the first real serial production industry; it is said that when Venice was at war a whole galley could be built here in just one day. Starting from 1797, after the fall of the Serenissima Republic, the Arsenale came under the jurisdiction of the various occupants of the region – first the French, then the

Austrians. In 1866 it came into the possession of the Italian ministry of defence and the municipal authorities of Venice had no say in the matter until recently. (The use of areas of the Arsenale for the Biennale and other events required the consent of the ministry of defence). For more details, see www.arsenaledivenezia.it 5 Chiesa di San Martino Campo San Martino (Fondamenta di Fronte). 6 Chiesa di S. Giovanni Bragora This church was first built in the eighth century and was then rebuilt in the fifteenth century. Inside there is a memorial stone commemorating the baptism of the composer Antonio Vivaldi and works by Palma il Giovane and Cima da Conegliano. 3790 Castello, in Campo della Bragora, open Mondays–Saturdays, 9.00am–noon, 3.30–5.30pm, Sundays 10.30am–noon 7 Scuola di San Nicolò dei Greci In addition to the church of San Giorgio dei Greci, the building (see the chapter with an explanation of these schools) houses the Scuola degli Schiavoni, the name hinting at

the merchants from the Dalmatian coast, and Greek works of art, including a collection of valuable Greek icons. Salizada dei Greci, 3412, tel. 041 5225446 open daily 9.00am–5.00pm, www.istitutoellenico.org 8 Scuola Dalmata di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni With a superb series of Vittore Carpaccio’s paintings depicting the life of Saint George. 3259 Castello, in Calle dei Furlani, tel. 041 5228828 open Mondays 2.45–6.00pm, Tuesdays–Saturdays, 9.15am– 1.00pm, 2.45–6.00pm, Sundays 9.15am–1.00pm. 9 Santa Maria dei Derelitti o dell’Ospedaletto The original plan was drawn up by Palladio, while the façade is the work of Baldassare Longhena. The four stone prisoners at the front by Giusto Le Court (Ypern in Belgium 1627– Venice 1679) and the fine church organ are well worth seeing. 6691 Castello, in Calle della Barbaria delle Tole, open Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays 3.30–6.30pm.

10 Chiesa di SS. Giovanni e Paolo After Saint Mark’s Basilica this was the most important church in Venice, and many doges and great celebrities are buried here. The interesting Gothic architecture is an indication of the influence of the approaching Renaissance period while the interior is adorned with valuable works of art, including some by Giovanni Bellini and Lorenzo Lotto. 6363 Castello, in Campo SS. Giovanni e Paolo (San Zanipolo), open daily 7.30am–6.30pm. 11 Scuola Grande di San Marco Yet another of the famous schools with a magnificent marble façade created between 1487 and 1490. Today the building is a hospital, and many of the works of art formerly preserved here are now on display in the Accademia Galleries. 6776 Castello, along Rio dei Mendicanti. Only partially open to the public. 12 Santa Maria Formosa One of the oldest churches of Venice with a winged altar which depicts Saint Barbara, the patron saint of

firefighters and artillery men. The Artillery guild had in fact set up their headquarters here and set up the Scuola di Santa Barbara. 5263 Castello, in Campo Santa Maria Formosa, tel. 041 2750462, open Mondays–Saturdays, 10.00am– 5.30pm. 13 Palazzo Querini Stampalia This building houses a remarkable art gallery including Giovanni Bellini’s prized painting The Presentation at the Temple. 5252 Castello, in Campo Santa Maria Formosa, tel. 041 2711411, open Tuesdays–Sundays, 10.00am– 6.00pm, Fridays and Saturdays until 10.00pm. www.querinistampalia.it 14 Chiesa di San Zaccaria This impressive fifteenth-century church has an imposing marble façade and its interior is characterised by a combination of Gothic and Renaissance styles. 4693 Castello, in Campo San Zaccaria, open Mondays–Saturdays: 10.00am–noon and 4.00–6.00pm, Sundays 4.00–6.00pm.

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VENICE TOUR 2

SHOPPING IN CASTELLO, A FEW TIPS IL MURANERO 3545 Castello, in Salizada del Pignater, tel. 347 6497947 The craftsman Niang Moulaye from Senegal, known as Il Muranero, makes colourful glass beads in his workshop and threads them to make attractive necklaces, which goes to prove that you don’t necessarily have to go to Murano to see glass craftsmen at work. SPECIALITÀ VENEZIANE 4665/B San Marco, in Calle dei Fabbri, www.specialitaveneziane.it, tel. 393 5362681. The masks created in this workshop using leather or papier mâché have a long tradition and are part of the theatrical culture and the worldfamous Venetian carnival. Arlecchino, Pulcinella, Pantalone and the Dottore with his long beak are the characters almost everyone is familiar with.

SUCCESSORI G. CARLI 4725 Castello, in Calle Corte Rota, tel. 041 5224155 Oars and forcole. Paolo Brandolisio carves and polishes oars and forcole (typical Venetian rowlocks which prevent the gondola’s oars from slipping) out of walnut. Since a rowlock measuring two metres in length was exhibited at the MOMA in New York, this unique item which is made to suit the height and rowing method of each gondolier is now virtually considered a work of art. CA’ DEL SOL 4964 Castello, along Fondamenta Dell’Osmarin, tel. 041 5285549, website also in English www.cadelsolmascherevenezia.com Another craft workshop which produces masks and also carnival costumes which may also be hired.

EATING AND DRINKING A IN PARADISO www.inparadiso.net This is a restaurant, café and exhibition venue for artists and offers a fantastic view of the lagoon from the patio. B SERRA DEI GIARDINI 1254 Castello, in Viale Giuseppe Garibaldi, tel. 041 2960360, www.serradeigiardini.org, closed Mondays The Nonsoloverde cooperative runs this venue hall inside the former

greenhouse with a “green”, alternative touch for an array of events, from children’s birthday parties to jazz evenings and other cultural events. With a great atmosphere, good food, freshly pressed fruit juices and snacks at good prices. C IL PINGUINO 2141 Castello, along Riva San Biagio, tel. 041 2411395 This is the name of an ice-cream parlour and is situated on the quayside with a view over the lagoon.

D TRATTORIA DEI CORAZZIERI 3839 Castello, along Salizada del Pignater, tel. 041 5289859, 320 3545632, www.aicorazzieri.com Typical Venetian cuisine with homemade pasta and, naturally, fish and seafood, open until 11.00pm! Live music every Thursday. Spacious seating around the tables outside. E TRATTORIA BANDIERETTE 6671 Castello, in Barbaria de le Tole, 041 5220619, closed Sundays A very local feel in this small, somewhat bare and affordable trattoria. F OSTERIA ALLA STAFFA 6397 Castello, in Calle dellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Ospedaletto, tel. 041 5239160 Simply laid, small tables with paper settings but contemporary menus including all kinds of fish and seafood and pasta dishes. Reservation recommended.

G OSTARIA AL PONTE 6378 Cannaregio, just off Ponte del Cavallo, tel. 041 5286157, closed Sundays; tables may be reserved online. www.ostariaalponte.com This eatery, with its striking red shutters and door frames cannot be overlooked. Despite the name, it is actually a cafĂŠ which serves the typical bite-sized appetisers called cicchetti, sandwiches and cold specialities.

H ALLA BASILICA 4255 Castello, in Calle Albanesi, tel. 041 5220524, www.allabasilicavenezia.it In this stylish, modern eatery which can accommodate as many as 120 people and is run by the episcopal authorities, a choice of fixed-price menus is offered at lunchtime only. J ANTICA SACRESTIA 4442 Castello, in Calle della Sacrestia, tel. 041 5230749, www.anticasacrestia.it This traditional eatery in which the walls are crammed with paintings and pictures, serves pizza and dishes based on fish and seafood. K TRATTORIA ALLA RIVETTA 4625 Castello, along Salizada Ponte San Provolo, tel. 041 5287302, closed Mondays Directly overlooking a small canal, by the bridge: small, welcoming, cosy and good. L DA CARLETTO 5272 Castello, in Calle delle Bande, tel. 041 5227944 With a wooden beam ceiling and exposed brickwork, comfy, neat and cosy.

Venice Tour Island hopping in the lagoon Anyone who comes here for just one day and wants to visit some of the many islands and learn something about life in the lagoon has to make a choice, as the number of islands is too big. We propose a visit to Murano, Burano, Torcello and Mazzorbo, all very different yet easy to reach with the municipal vaporetti. Please see also the individual descriptions in The Venice lagoon islands (p. 36) in this Guide. Your starting point can either be Isola della Certosa which lies off the coast from Venice or the Fondamenta Nove boat landing stage, on the north-eastern side of the city. MURANO The first stop is Murano, world famous for glass production and hand-

crafted glassware. This tradition, which is still very much alive, can be felt everywhere on the island. Murano is similar to Venice â&#x20AC;&#x201C; which is less than one kilometre away â&#x20AC;&#x201C; in that it is built on a series of islands and densely populated, with houses packed side by side. Disembark at the Museo landing stage and youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be in the centre of the action, in other words amidst crowds of visitors. Before you fall prey to a bait offer giving you a free visit to a glass workshop which then entails almost an obligation to purchase, we recommend you pay a visit to the Museo del Vetro 1 which is located directly by the landing stage. This will allow you to distinguish kitsch from art as you tour the island walking around the building complex of the museum

and along the canal which flows through Murano. It is nonetheless fun to watch the glass blowers giving one of their live demonstrations for tourists inside a glass workshop and take a (better if well packaged) souvenir back with you. In the south of the island, along the canal and the Fondamenta dei Vetrai, you’ll find many glassworks where you can look over the shoulder of the craftsmen or down their blowpipe (production typologies, glassworks and their location on the map in www.regione. veneto.it/static/www/attivita-produttive/VetroArtisticoMurano.pdf.) These firms offer different models and styles of glass objects: modern sculptures, antique designs and templates, mirrors, windows, leaded glass, religious items, crystal lighting fixtures, lamps, bric-à-brac and gift items, vases, bowls, tumblers, costume jewellery... Firms such as Barovier, Venini and Zanetti have signed the most artistically refined

glass production. Glass from Murano bears a quality guarantee label. Next to the museum stands the impressive Basilica dei Santi Maria e Donato 2 , with its detached Romanesque campanile. Palazzo Trevisan 3 (not open to visitors) on the opposite side of the canal has an eye-catching, elegant façade. There were once almost twenty churches on Murano; in addition to the Basilica dei Santi Maria e Donato, you can visit the church of San Pietro Martire 4 facing the Canale Grande di Murano, which is also important. For small appetites, the Al Ponte café and ice-cream parlour is perfect and centrally located by the bridge over the Canale Grande, as the name implies. The restaurant Alla Vecchia Pescheria is located on the small square which opens out onto the Fondamenta dei Vetrai. The Trattoria Valmarana is also centrally located, close to the museum.

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2 Basilica dei SS. Maria e Donato This church was built in the seventh century and is one of the oldest in the entire lagoon. It has a magnificent apse, a colourful mosaic floor and a tall, free-standing Romanesque campanile. Campo San Donato, open Mondays– Fridays: 9.00am–noon, 3.30–7.00pm, Sundays 3.30–7.00pm 3

SIGHTS ON MURANO 1 Museo del Vetro In this historical glassware museum archaeological findings are displayed in chronological order, from the Romans and other ancient civilisations up to artworks produced in more modern times, showing a profile of this craft throughout history. Fondamenta Giustinian, tel. 041 739586, daily 10.00am–6.00pm, www.museovetro.visitmuve.it

Palazzo Trevisan

4 San Pietro Martire This church, situated along the Canale Grande di Murano, is one of the two parish churches on the island. This simple red brick building is lavishly decorated in the interior and contains paintings by important masters (including Veronese, a pupil of Tintoretto and Salviati). 3, Campiello Michieli, tel. 041 739704, open Mondays–Fridays: 8.00am–7.00pm, Saturdays 11.00am–7.00pm, Sundays noon–5.00pm.

EATING ON MURANO A AL PONTE 1/C Riva Lunga, Murano, tel. 041 736278 Al Ponte, café and ice-cream parlour, serving tea and coffee, aperitifs, sandwiches and snacks. B ALLA VECCHIA PESCHERIA 4 Campiello Pescheria, tel. 041 5274957, www.allavecchiapescheria.com In spite of its name (old fish shop), this restaurant is modern and simply yet pleasantly furnished and offers good food. The fact that the chefs previously worked in the glass trade is highlighted by glass tiles, glass decorations and glass plates.

C TRATTORIA VALMARANA 31 Fondamenta Navagero, tel. 041 739313 There aren’t many fancy knickknacks in this eatery where fixed menus, naturally with a lot of fish, are served outside on the roofed terrace.

10 F 7

8 9

BURANO The next stage of this lagoon trip takes you to Burano with its famous, brightly coloured houses. Bobbin lace was and still is as important for Burano as glass is for Murano. On Burano you will certainly not lose your way: everything here is small and calm and all the sights are clustered around the large square in the town centre, Piazza Galuppi. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll

arrive at the only landing stage on the island and start with the Museo del Merletto 5 . Very close by stands the church of San Martino 6 which cannot be overlooked due to its very tilted campanile. The historical Trattoria da Romano is also located in the centre.

SIGHTS ON BURANO 5 Museo del Merletto The museum dedicated to bobbin lace is housed in the former lacemaking school in the time-honoured red brick building with stone-framed arched windows. Visitors will have the chance to learn everything there is to know about lace, which was once an essential item in the wardrobe of all the most wealthy citizens and also formed the basis for the wealth of the island.

187 Piazza Galuppi, tel. 041 730034, 10.00am–6.00pm, www.museomerletto.visitmuve.it 6 Chiesa di San Martino This church contains a few remarkable works of art including a painting by the young Tiepolo depicting the Crucifixion. 187 Piazza Galuppi, 8.00am–noon, 3.00–7.00pm.

EATING ON BURANO D TRATTORIA DA ROMANO 221 Via Baldassarre Galuppi S. Martino Destra, tel. 041 730030, www.daromano.it A historical restaurant in the centre where many illustrious figures

stopped by to eat and left their artworks. It is famous for its risotto al go, the word go being the local name used for ghiozzo (brook goby) the stock of which gives the risotto a very distinct flavour.

MAZZORBO Walk across a wooden bridge along Strada San Mauro, in the westernmost corner of Burano, to reach the neighbouring island of Mazzorbo. It was densely populated in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries and the church of Santa Caterina, to the south-west, dates back to even earlier times. We may be more interested in the vineyards, however, and a lodging establishment with an interesting past. The land on Mazzorbo belongs to the municipality of Venice, which rented it out to Gianluca Bisol, an able entrepreneur from the Prosecco region around Treviso, on one condition: that he

created a youth hostel within the old Scarpa-Volo estate, also including a hotel and other tourist facilities. This means that guests who stay in the youth hostel at a reasonable price are also free to enjoy the luxury of the restaurant and the common areas. Next to the hotel, Bisol has planted new Dorona vines, a white variety native to the lagoon region which almost became extinct but... now the first white wine from the lagoon has finally been pressed, generating great media interest. A footpath leads through the vineyard with information panels for visitors. The estate bears the name of Venissa.

EATING ON MAZZORBO E VENISSA 3 Fondamenta Santa Caterina, Isola di Mazzorbo, tel. 041 5272281, www.venissa.it Venissa Ristorante Ostello (Youth hostel)

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VENEDIG

TORCELLO Back in Burano, take the vaporetto to Torcello. Only those who have spent the minimal amount of time visiting the other islands will still find time for Torcello: the island certainly has a great past, which deserves a full dayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s attention. Only a relatively narrow strait divides Burano and Mazzorbo from Torcello, which lies to the northeast and was once the nucleus of the population of the lagoon. Its former greatness is witnessed by the Romanesque Christian churches which are the major attraction for most visitors. Around 10,000 people lived here in the tenth century and in the fifteenth century there were still sixteen monasteries and twelve parishes. However, the ground gradually sank and land disappeared into the sea; the rivers deposited sand and silt and more and more freshwa-

ter was mixed with the salt water; this led to the spread of malaria and thus many people left the island which is now home to just a handful of inhabitants. Leave the landing stage and stroll along the canal on the Fondamenta dei Borgognoni to reach the centre of Torcello, passing the famous Ponte del Diavolo 7 . This was allegedly built by the devil (diavolo) in just one night, in return for which he received the soul of an officer who wanted to win the heart of a young girl by making her believe he had built it himself. Anyone looking for a place to eat on Torcello is lucky as the very famous Locanda Cipriani is close to the Romanesque monuments on the path leading from the landing stage. The most important sights in the centre of the island, around a small

square, include the basilica of Santa Maria Assunta 8 , the church of Santa Fosca 9 and the archaeological museum in the Palazzo del Consiglio e dell’Archivio 10 .

SIGHTS ON TORCELLO 7 Ponte del Diavolo A narrow, single-lane stone bridge, with no side railings. 8 Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta The former episcopal cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, which was consecrated in its current form around the year 1008, was built to incorporate parts of a previous building from the seventh century. The valuable mosaics laid in the typical style used in Ravenna and in Saint Mark’s cathedral in Venice depict the Virgin Mary and child – a pattern known as the Hodegetria (a Greek word meaning “she who shows the way”) – surrounded by the twelve apostles, the Last Judgement (on the counterfaçade) and Christ sitting on his throne between the archangels Michael and Gabriel (in the right apse). The four doctors of the church, Gregory, Jerome, Augustine and Ambrose are also represented. The tall campanile (closed at the time of going to press due to

renovation works) can be reached via a flight of stairs and offers a fantastic view over the lagoon which is particularly shallow in this area and has only a small difference in the levels of the tide, which is why it is also referred to as laguna morta (literally, “dead lagoon”). Tel. 041 730119, 10.30am–6.00pm 9 Santa Fosca The centrally-planned church of Santa Fosca dates back to the eleventh century and is encircled by a colonnade. Tradition has it that the relics of Saint Fosca were brought here from Libya around the year 1000, when this church and this impressive martyr’s grave, the church itself, was erected in her honour. You can find more details on this island in the relative section in your Guide. Tel. 041 730119, daily 10.30am– 6.00pm 10 Museo Archeologico This museum has been set up in the Palazzo del Consiglio e dell’Archivio, which contains collections of Byzantine and Venetian art as well as archaeological findings from excavation sites on the island. Tel. 041 730761, open Tuesdays–Sundays 10.30am– 5.30pm

EATING ON TORCELLO F LOCANDA CIPRIANI 29 Piazza Santa Fosca, Torcello, tel. 041 730150, www.locandacipriani.com This renowned restaurant is run by the same Cipriani family that runs Harry’s Bar in Venice. It is no won-

der that famous celebrities from the aristocracy, the film-making world, as well as the music and show businesses have continued to pop in and out of this place; the fame factor is, however, also reflected somewhat in the bill!

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Malcontenta

Mestre

Zelarino

Marocco

e Sile

Treporti

Pontegrandi

Meolo

Malamocco

Lido di Venezia

Golfo di Venezia

Passarella

Cavallino

Lio Piccolo

Laguna Veneta

Fiu

Lido di Jesolo

Eraclea Mare

N 5 km

Caorle

Porto Santa Margherita Duna Verde

La Salute di Livenza Ottava Presa

Mare A dr iat ic o

Cortellazzo

Torre di Fina

Ponte Crepaldo

Stretti

Eraclea

Jesolo

San Donà di Piave

Musile iav e di Piave

Fossalta di Piave

Murano Sant’Erasmo 1 Cavallino

Venezia

Campalto

Tessera

Fiume D e s e

Marcon

me Zero Fiu

Quarto d’Altino

m Fiu

7 A5

Mogliano Veneto

Peseggia

Casale sul Sile

Monastier di Treviso P

Preganziol

Roncade

Biancade

Lughignano

Casier

A 27

Dosson

From Venice to Jesolo/Caorle CAVALLINO–TREPORTI 1 (Population: 13,400) A narrow strip of

coastline separates the Venice lagoon from the open Adriatic Sea and offers only three openings for the currents, ships and boats to enter the lagoon. The north entrance, known as “Porto del Lido” or “Porto di San Nicolò”, lies between the headland of Punta Sabbioni and the narrow island of the Lido and is the largest and most important entrance into the port of Venice for passenger boats and ferries. By far the quickest way to get there is still by car to Punta Sabbioni, and then with the vaporetto (literally “little steam boat”) to the lagoon city. Punta Sabbioni forms part of the extensive district with the double name of Cavallino–Treporti, the first part of which derives from the former usage of the area for breeding horses (in Italian, cavallo). ). This also applies to the eastern district of Jesolo, which derives from the Latin equilium and also means “horse”. Cavallino–Treporti became an independent municipality only in 1998, based on the outcome of a referendum. With six million holidaymakers heading for Cavallino–Treporti each year, mostly staying in camping sites, it is Italy’s second largest holiday destination for bathers.

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Along the wide coastline of fine sand there are around thirty camping villages which are among the largest of their kind. What was once contemptuously dismissed as a “Teutonic grill” has since become one of the most beautiful camping areas in Europe, thanks to its outstanding amenities and high level of comfort. If the weather is too bad for bathing, holidaymakers flock to nearby Venice and the lagoon islands of Burano, Torcello or Murano. In addition to tourism, the local economy relies on horticulture and agriculture. Huge quantities of vegetables are grown here, including tomatoes, artichokes, salad greens and also melons, and not only distributed to the local guest houses and restaurants but also dispatched to other regions. This gaily coloured, varied section of coastline stretches from the shipping pier of Punta Sabbioni to Jesolo: while the dead

EVENTS , October: On October 4–5, the town holds a celebration in honour of its patron saint, Saint Francis of Assisi. If you have a similar name (Francesca, Frances, Francis, Frank etc.), join us at the FRANCES CLICK meeting point for a group photo and a diploma! The celebrations will begin after holy mass and a large fair is held on the Saturday. For information contact federica.zagatti@comunecavallinotreporti.it

straight road Via Fausta is always noisy and chocker block with traffic, to the north the parallel cycle path goes past gardens, canals, meadows and gravel routes. Shortly before Lido di Jesolo we come to the Sile River, which flows into a wide river bed, so smoothly you can hardly notice the current. The cycle path follows the embankment on the right, along a narrow strip of land which reaches as far as Jesolo.

TOURIST OFFICE Piazzale di Punta Sabbioni, Cavallino-Treporti Tel. 041 5298711 - www.turismovenezia.it

SILE 2 The Sile River has its source west of Treviso, between Casacorba di Vedelago in the province of Treviso and Levada and Torreselle di Piombino Dese in the province of Padua, in a spot where water comes out of the ground suddenly and in large quantities. The river flows through the province of Treviso, firstly from west to east, and then

meanders south-east until it reaches the Venetian lagoon, where it once ended. Following the measures undertaken in the seventeenth century to change the course of the river, it now flows into the Adriatic in Cavallino in the district of Cavallinoâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; Treporti, just west of Lido di Jesolo by the lighthouse overlooking Porto di Piave Vecchia.

Lido di Jesolo Tourist office Hotels 1 Hotel Rosa Bikeshops 2 Cicli Sperandio

Lido di Jesolo Jesolo is divided into two areas: the town of Jesolo and Lido di Jesolo. The town of Jesolo lies around two kilometres from the beach. Lido di Jesolo is more famous and overlooks the lagoon of Venice. The old town dates back to the Roman times, when it was an island by the mouth of the Piave River and also a stopover for ships along the old shipping route between Ravenna and the north. When the Piave River changed its course, Jesolo became part of the mainland and less significant. In the fifteenth century, Venice had a canal built which led to the formation of a new centre in the area, at the point where the Piave River and the canal met. The canal was named after the Zucharin family which was responsible for keeping watch over the traffic along the canal, thus named Cavazucharina (canal of the Zucharins). Jesolo was known as Cavazucharina for over four centuries and was only given back its original name of Jesolo in 1930. Around this time there was a new boom in tourism and the first bathing establishment was opened on the nearby beach along the Adriatic: this marked the beginning of Lido di Jesolo. The course of the Piave River was likewise changed and flowed into the Adriatic east of Jesolo and no longer into the lagoon. Along the river mouth lay the former fishing village of Cortellazzo. The mouth of the Sile River is dominated by the lighthouse which stands forty-eight metres tall. Although it is really in the district of Cavallino–Treporti on the western bank of the Sile River, it is known as the “lighthouse of Jesolo”. It was built between 1948 and 1950 to replace the old lighthouse which dated back to 1840, and is now a dominating feature in the skyline of Lido di Jesolo. Jesolo has an impressive beach of fine, golden sand which stretches for fifteen kilometres nearby the shady pine forest, the characteristic green oasis of the town, the numerous hotels, and the modern and well-equipped bathing establishments.

TOURIST OFFICE 13 Piazza Brescia, Lido di Jesolo Tel. 0421 66134 - www.turismovenezia.it

JESOLO

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FROM VENICE TO JESOLO/CAORLE

LA CAVETTA 3 Between Jesolo and Eraclea Mare the cycle path

runs beside a dead straight, navigable canal named the Cavetta. This waterway was built way back in 1499 by the Venetians to make it easier to travel between Venice and Grado by ship. It was planned by Alvise Zucharin, after whom Cavazuccherina is named: cava meaning the excavation of the canal and zuccherina from his surname. The canal once formed a boundary between France and Austria, namely at the time of Napoleon, and then again between Italy and Austria in World War I, when the Italians withdrew their front line here, following the battle in Caporetto. ERACLEA MARE 4 Eraclea (population: 12,600) is located on the mainland, just a few kilometres from the sea. Until November 4, 1950 it was called Grisolera. At the initiative of the mayor at the time, it changed its name back to Eraclea, which was the name of an antique Roman-Byzantine settlement on the outskirts of the district. Before then, it was still known as Melidissa and, like Venice, was on an island in the lagoon. It changed its name to Heracleia in honour of the Eastern Roman Emperor Heraclius (575â&#x20AC;&#x201C;641), who succeeded in stopping the Longobards from tak-

THE PIAVE 6 The Piave River is 220 kilometres long and has its spring in the Carnic Alps. All the rivers that flow into the North Adriatic form a complex network of interconnected canals and tributaries. According to records dating back to the Middle Ages, the Piave was used for transporting wood by barge. In this way, timber felled in the extensive forests of the Alps was transported downstream to Venice, where it was used to erect new houses and also for ship building. The timber floated downstream along the former tributary of the Piave and was guided until it reached the building

sites and shipyards in the city. As the Piave flowed directly into the lagoon, there was a danger of the area being silted up due to the timber that washed ashore. For this reason, in 1680 an important canal was built, which led to the mouth of the Piave River being moved further north. The new river mouth now lies between Lido di Jesolo and Eraclea Mare, while the old river course was maintained as a navigable waterway. At the same time the course of the Sile River was changed so that it no longer flowed into the lagoon but ended directly in the Piave River, via a canal.

ing over the lagoon. This well fortified and strictly organised town had its heyday in the seventh century, when the population totalled around 90,000. The doge of Venice (from the Latin dux, or leader) also had his residence here, but when the doges moved their main residence to the Rialto area of Venice in 811, Eraclea became less significant. Now a modern seaside town with beautiful pine groves in the centre, it is called Eraclea Mare and is a popular holiday resort for families. Tourist office: 54 Piazza Garibaldi, Eraclea Tel. 0421 234222; www.comuneeraclea.it

PORTO SANTA MARGHERITA 5 Further east along the coastline lies Porto Santa Margherita, a seaside town that is already part of the municipality of Caorle. The town lies on the mouth of the Livenza River. With a total length of 112 kilometres, it is navigable further downstream where it finally flows into the Adriatic. It was first created as a sophisticated bathing resort back in the 1970s. Its attractions, besides the beautiful, wide beach, include the marina with almost 1,000 landing stages, making it one of the largest in the Veneto region. Tourist office: 119/C Viale Santa Margherita, Caorle Tel. 0421 210506; www.caorlevacanze.it

ERNEST HEMINGWAY ON THE PIAVE During World War I, Ernest Hemingway registered as a voluntary paramedic with the medical service. He was stationed in Italy, where he was badly wounded, on July 8, 1918, in Fossalta di Piave, when a grenade hit the nearby Austrian-Hungarian army. He was taken to hospital in Milan. To commend his dedication to service on this day he was awarded the silver medal for bravery by the Italian government. He recollected his experiences on the front line in his novel A Farewell to Arms, published in 1929.

FROM VENICE TO JESOLO/CAORLE

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Venezia

Hotels 2 Hotel International Beach

Monuments and historical sites 1 Cathedral

Tourist office

Caorle Portogruaro

Caorle (Population: 12,000) This town also became famous thanks to American author Ernest Hemingway who found inspiration for his novel Across the River and Into the Trees in San Gaetano and the lagoon of Caorle. Hemingway first visited Caorle in 1948, when he was accompanied by Baron Raimondo Nanuk Franchetti with whom he shared a deep friendship and passion for hunting. He stayed in an estate near San Gaetano di Caorle overlooking the lagoon. The mansion is now empty and can be seen on a boat trip. This little town is often referred to as “little Venice” due to its narrow alleyways, campaniles, and small houses, gaily painted in the typical Venetian colours. In former times this nickname was even more appropriate when the historical city centre was riddled with canals. As land was gradually reclaimed in the area, the canals too were filled up and now lie beneath the network of roads in the historical city centre. Similarly to Venice, Caorle was also built on stilts in the lagoon. In economic and cultural terms it could hardly keep on a par with its famous neighbour further south. Caorle did not lose its importance, however, until it was conquered by the Venetians. As early as the previous century, the former lagoon city devel-

TOURIST OFFICE 3 Rio Terrà, Caorle - Tel. 0421 72553 - www.turismovenezia.it

oped into a holidaymakersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; paradise. Particularly noteworthy, in addition to the city centre, is the eleventh-century Romanesque cathedral of Santo Stefano, with its pencil-shaped bell tower, now the symbol of Caorle. Some of the large boulders used to stabilise the shoreline along the seafront were decorated by artists. Today Caorle is probably one of the most beautiful cities along the northern Adriatic coastline. Both sides of the city lead to the beautiful sandy beaches, which stretch for miles and lure numerous holidaymakers every year to relax and bathe. Despite numerous new hotels and holiday homes, Caorle has retained its original charm.

EVENTS , August: Midsummer festival with huge firework display in the evening near to the statue of the Virgin Mary on the beach. Last week in August, folk festival in Caâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Corniani, near Caorle. Extensive programme with live music, dancing, childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s activities and naturally food and drinks! , September: end of September, Epoca Car, exhibition and sale of old timers in the Palaexpomar trade centre.

F r o m Ve n i c e t o Po r e cˇ

Sights worth seeing tury on the ruins of a building dating back to the early Christian period. Until 1807 Caorle was the episcopal seat and the cathedral was part of a building complex which also included a baptistery and another basilica. The basilica was torn down in the nineteenth century, but the outlines can still be recognised thanks to the different colour of the square paving in front of the cathedral. The unique, circular tower may well have been built on the ruins of a Romanesque watchtower or lighthouse. One of the most valuable works is in the right nave: a painting of the Last Supper by Tiepolo’s master, Gregorio Lazzarini. The crucifix above the fifteenth-century high altar and the Pala d’oro (an embossed and chiselled gilt silver plaque behind the high altar) are also worth seeing. It was supposedly a gift from Caterina Cornaro, the queen of Cyprus, who was saved by fishermen from a vessel in distress and donated the plaque, which portrays the archangel Gabriel and saints, to express her gratitude. CA’ CORNIANI 7 Ca’ Corniani was once a small rural settle-

ment in a marshy, barren area on the banks of the Livenza River. After steps were taken to drain the soil and reclaim the land, it became the largest agricultural holding in the entire region, covering an area of 1,770 hectares, on which wheat, soya, corn, fruit, and vines are cultivated. Since 1851 the farm has belonged to the Generali insurance company which maintains a pilot farm in the area. The winery produces around 20,000 hectolitres of first-class wine with an excellent pricequality ratio. Visitors’ centre and trattoria. Azienda Agricola Ca’ Corniani Genagricola, 3 Via Francesconi, Ca’ Corniani-Caorle, tel. 0421 210077 or 0421 83901

WEEKLY MARKETS CAVALLINO Cá di Valle, Tuesdays JESOLO Piazzale Kennedy, Fridays

ERACLEA P.zza Garibaldi, Tuesdays CAORLE Viale A. Moro, Saturdays

CAORLE

THE CATHEDRAL 1 The cathedral was built in the eleventh cen-

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Caorle Golfo di Venezia 5 km

From Caorle to Portogruaro TORRE DI MOSTO 1 The name has nothing to do with wine must. In Roman times, the important Via Annia, which connected the Venice lagoon with Caorle, ran along the mainland, and a watchtower was built on the banks of the Livenza River. The small settlement and the tower were destroyed in the turmoil of the war in 1411. Both were rebuilt by the Venetian De Mosto family, which had an estate and agricultural holding here. The tower was crenellated and a large clock was added, and the town was renamed in honour of the tower (in Italian, torre)) and the family that rebuilt it. BOCCAFOSSA 2 By the hamlet of Boccafossa, just after Santâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

Elena, the dam offers a superb view of the river and pasturelands, with the large pumping station on the Brion canal and the river port for leisure boats. In the village there is a fine permanent exhibition of contemporary paintings by different artists on the theme of the Veneto landscape. Museo del Paesaggio, Via Boccafossa, Torre di Mosto, tel. 0421 324440, free admission, open Saturdaysâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sundays, www.museodelpaesaggio.ve.it

WEEKLY MARKETS CONCORDIA SAGITTARIA Via Roma, Mondays

PORTOGRUARO Piazza Repubblica, Thursdays

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CONCORDIA SAGITTARIA 3 The town

of Concordia Sagittaria (population: 10,600) lies on the outskirts of Portogruaro and can look back on an impressive history. It was founded in Roman times, around 40 BCE, as Concordia (from the Latin concordia, meaning concord), and later received the second part of its name in memory of the fact that arrows (in Latin, sagitta)) were once produced here. Via Annia, one of the most important Roman roads in north-eastern Italy, connected Venice with Grado on the mainland. Part of the ruins which had remained covered and forgotten for a long time has now been partially unveiled. The most worthwhile sight in Concordia is without a doubt the ancient basilica: together with its campanile, it rests entirely on concrete stilts. There are certainly only a few basilicas which offer archaeology enthusiasts the possibility to walk beneath the campanile and admire the foundations of an early Christian church with impressive mosaics. It was below these remains, during further excavations, that researchers found the relics of an old Roman villa located directly next to the important Roman road Via Annia. These relics are still open to visitors today. Concordia was founded by Emperor Octavianus Augustus, who set up a military base here, close to the eastern borders. At the same time, army veterans also settled in the town, which quickly developed into an important location with a theatre, temples, fortifications, streets, a river port, and a port on the lagoon. Many archaeological finds provide evidence of this flourishing period. In the Middle Ages, the entire area became marshy and the town itself lost importance. The heyday of the town in Roman times fell into oblivion and was not considered until the recent excavations. The relics removed from the excavation sites are on display in a dedicated museum.

Portogruaro 4 This city (population: 25.500) includes a well-preserved historical city centre: it is spread out along the Lemene River over two parallel main axes with side roads branching off at right angles. Of the original five city gateways only three remain to this day: San Gottardo, Santâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Agnese, and San Giovanni. The moat around the historical city centre is still easily recognisable. The city coat of arms shows two cranes, from the Italian gru,, which is appropriately included in the name of the city. It is more probable, however, that the city was named after Gruarius, the chief forester in Roman times, a common figure in estates used for agricultural purposes. The first component of the name Porto refers to the former river port that was of great importance until Venice took centre stage. Corso Martiri della LibertĂ is the main street and is lined with shops. It is overlooked by the town hall with its Gothic swallowtail merlons. Behind the building is the Piazzetta della Pescheria, a romantic spot with a small chapel and old water mills dating back to the thirteenth century. A nearby attraction is the leaning campanile of the cathedral. The Lemene River probably got its name from the Latin Limes, which means border, due to the fact that the river has always formed a border between the region of Friuli to the east and Veneto to the west.

Museums 1 Museo Nazionale Concordiese

Tourist office

Bikeshops 5 Zanco Mauro

Hotels 2 Hotel Portus 3 Hotel Spessotto 4 Hotel Alla Botte

Portogruaro

Caorle

Palmanova

MUSEUMS MUSEO DELLA CITTÀ www.comune.portogruaro.ve.it Torre di S. Agnese; tel. 0421 72553 Thursdays, Saturdays–Sundays 10am–noon, Saturdays–Sundays also 3–5pm The gate tower that was recently acquired and rebuilt by the local authority is now part of the city museum and houses a collection of documents, signets, arms, sculptures, epigraphs, and objects in glass and ceramic, displayed over several floors, which tell the history of the city from the twelfth century to the modern day.

1 MUSEO NAZIONALE CONCORDIESE www.archeopd.beniculturali.it 22 Via Seminario; tel. 0421 72674 Daily 8.30am–7.30pm; for guided tours, contact: tel. 0421 73010 or 0421 72319 The museum is the oldest in the region of Veneto and one of the oldest in the whole of Italy. It recently underwent a major renovation. Inside its modern basilica-like architecture there is a display of impressive exhibits from the Roman period, including mosaic floors, statues, coins, bronzes, glass, and ceramic ware.

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San Michele al Tagliamento

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Cervignano del Friuli Villa Vicentina

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San Vito al Torre

Palmanova

Trivigiano Udinese Santa Maria la Longa

Bagnaria Arsa

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Castions di Strada

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From Portogruaro to Palmanova/Aquileia FOSSALTA DI PORTOGRUARO 1 Between Portogruaro and Alvi-

Museo Etnografico, 22 Viale Venezia, tel. 0421 789232, to arrange a visit call 349 0924900

ALVISOPOLI 2 This small town owes its name to the Venetian

count Alvise Mocenigo who, at the end of the eighteenth century, wanted to make his vision of an ideal town come true here. His polis (meaning town, in Greek), thus named Alvisopoli, was to be independent and not dedicated solely to agriculture. For this reason he had a brick factory, a weaving mill, and a water mill built. He created canals, founded a printing house and also cultivated new crops such as sugar beet and rice. In addition to Villa Mocenigo with its church and park, houses were built for the factory workers and farmers. Most of the original buildings have been preserved to this day and it is clear to see that ravages of time had already started to take a toll. One wing of the manor house accommodates the municipally owned collection of paintings of Friuli artist Luigi Diamante. BOSCO DI ALVISOPOLI 3 The forest of Alvisopoli was once the

parkland surrounding Villa Mocenigo. These four hectares of land are now completely overgrown and are under the management of the WWF of Veneto. The relatively small area of woodland is riddled with pools and springs offering a safe habitat to a wide range of flora and fauna, including terrapins. It also offers a picnic area, trails and information boards. Info: tel. 0421 248097, e-mail: cea.alvisopoli@libero.it

F R O M P O R T O G R UA R O T O PA L M A N O VA / A Q U I L E I A

sopoli lies the small village of Fossalta, with some fine examples of well-preserved country estates and town houses. The museum of popular art housed in the old school is well worth seeing, with installations regarding the local handcrafts (the activities of stonemasons, barbers, blacksmiths, cobblers, tailors, and knitters) which have since disappeared. A further area is dedicated to the former primary school and another to World War I, during which the front line passed through this area.

SAN GIORGIO AL TAGLIAMENTO 4 San Michele al Tagliamento and the sub-district San Giorgio form the easternmost locality in the Veneto region, and lies on the left bank of the Tagliamento River. A bridge and railway viaduct cross the river here and lead to Latisana, which was formerly part of Friuli. During World War II the river crossings, that formed part of the supply line for the southern front line of the German troops, became a target for the allied forces with over sixty bomb attacks. Many of the houses were reduced to debris and ash in the event. LATISANA 5 The town of Latisana (population: 14,000) is not far away from the bathing resort of Lignano Sabbiadoro. It was founded in the Roman times thanks to the favourable position near to the Tagliamento River, which offered a trade route for

EVENTS , April: Gorgo, near San Michele al Tagliamento â&#x20AC;&#x201C; from April 25th to May 1st: Asparagorgo, a traditional asparagus festival in Gorgo. Festive atmosphere with asparagus, fish, wine and typical local dishes.

the transportation of salt, wood, cereals, and wine. For those interested in the history of art, a painting above the altar in the cathedral – The Baptism of Christ by Paolo Caliari, known as Il Veronese – and the fine eighteenth-century organ built by the famous master Pietro Nacchini, are particularly worth seeing. The church of Sant’Antonio with an altarpiece dating back to the sixteenth century, presumably the work of Jacopo and Domenico Tintoretto, is also worth a visit. The bustling bathing resort of Lignano Sabbiadoro, with its fine, golden yellow sandy beach (from the Italian sabbia, meaning sand, and d’oro, meaning golden) broke off from Latisana a few decades ago to become a municipality in its own right. When Aprilia Marittima was created, however, Latisana recovered a slice of the tourism along the Adriatic: with 2,500 mooring places the marina is the largest port for leisure craft in the entire north Adriatic!

TOURIST OFFICE, LATISANA 6 Via Rocca, Latisana Tel. 0431 521550 - www.prolatisana.it

TOURIST OFFICE, LIGNANO SABBIADORO 42 Via Latisana, Lignano Sabbiadoro Tel. 0431 71821 - www.turismo.fvg.it

F r o m Ve n i c e t o Po r e cˇ

EVENTS

F R O M P O R T O G R UA R O T O PA L M A N O VA / A Q U I L E I A

,April: second Sunday in April, Flower festival in Latisana. The town is adorned with flowers to welcome spring. Market for flowers and gardening equipment. ,September: September D.O.C., named after the controlled denomination of origin of the products on offer. The whole of Latisana looks forward to this three-day autumn festival. Food, drink, music, fashion and sports events.

TORVISCOSA 6 This small town (population: 2,950) was founded in the 1930s. At that time, around seventy new towns were established throughout Italy, involving the best architects working for the Fascist regime. Torviscosa was given the hallmark of Giuseppe De Min. The town is inseparably linked with the chemical company SNIA Viscosa, which at that time produced a new type of artificial silk known as viscose, from the raw material cellulose, which is extracted from a type of rush, the donax. The location was Arundo donax chosen wisely: there was a railway, a road network and the sea for the transportation to and from the city of finished products and raw materials, high quantities of water needed for production and cheap labourers. Due to the economic crisis, in fact, there was a large number of unemployed in the surrounding area. The driving force was provided by Franco Marinotti, the boss of SNIA, who wanted to make his vision for the area come true. The town square is named

after him. In addition to the factory halls, homes for the factory workers, office staff and managers were built, as well as a canteen, a nursery, a school, a theatre, a swimming pool, and sports facilities. The new town was built to accommodate 20,000 employees but “only” 1,500 people eventually lived and worked in Torviscosa. The name derives from the former rural settlement, Torre di Zuino, and viscosa. A T-shaped tower of the old factory still remains. A surprising number of buildings from the old town have been preserved to this day, although the glory of the golden days of the large chemical works has since faded away. Some production divisions were stopped, others were downsized and new products such as pharmaceuticals and fine chemicals now replace the production of viscose. Info: local municipal offices, 1 Piazza del Popolo, tel. 0431 927916, www.comune.torviscosa.ud.it

The construction work on this fortified town, which is probably the only one of its kind worldwide, was initiated in 1593 by the Republic of Venice that wanted to create a better line of defence on its eastern boundary, where the Turks and the Uskoks (Slavic mercenary soldiers) provoked sudden attacks and the Austrian neighbours strived to expand their territory. The town was planned in the shape of a nine-point star, based on the experience of military strategists. Palmanova is not only one of the best preserved examples of Renaissance military architecture but also embodies the concept of an ideal city. The city walls and ramparts, which surround streets branching off symmetrically from the wide central square, have the form of a star.

TOURIST OFFICE 4 Borgo Udine, tel. 0432 924815, www.propalma.it

WEEKLY MARKETS LIGNANO SABBIADORO V.le Europa, Mondays LATISANA P.zza Garibaldi, Wednesdays

PALMANOVA main square, Mondays

PA L M A N O VA

Palmanova

1 2 3 4

Monuments and historical sites Fortifications Piazza Grande City museum Cathedral

Bikeshops 6 Cicli 4R

Hotels 5 Hotel Ai Dogi

Palmanova

Portogruaro

Aquileia/Trieste

Sights worth seeing

FORTIFICATIONS 1 The magnificence of the Venetian architecture is visible immediately on the other side of the elegant gateways, built in stone. This is especially the case of the eastern gateway, Porta Cividale, where the fortifications form a distinct route, which explains the role played by the ramparts, spires, crenels, and casemates on which the names of martyrs are engraved. Info: Museo Storico Militare by the keep at Porta Cividale, tel. 0432 923535

PIAZZA GRANDE 2 This square is the heart of the city from

which all streets lead off to form a star shape. It is overlooked by the most important buildings of the city, such as the Baroque cathedral, the Palazzo del Governatore Generale, the Loggia della Gran Guardia, and the Loggia dei Mercanti. CITY MUSEUM 3 With its collections of documents, maps, coins

and banknotes, arms, and other relics from the past, the museum narrates the periods during which the town came under Venetian, Austrian, Napoleonic, and Italian rule. 4 Borgo Udine; tel. 0432 929106

PA L M A N O VA

A stroll through the town pass by the most important sights, listed below.

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CATHEDRAL 4 Its white marble faĂ§ade is ornamented with three niches with statues of Christ, the evangelist Mark (and patron saint of Venice and the Republic) and also Saint Justina (the patron saint of Pamanova), to commemorate the date on which the town was founded. On the same date, October 7, the town also celebrates the victory over the Turks in the battle of Lepanto. On the inside there are other works of art, such as a wooden statue of the Virgin Mary, frescoes, the ceiling in painted larchwood, and an altarpiece by Padovanino.

PA L M A N O VA

EVENTS , May: first weekend in May, Sapori di Storia, Storia di Sapori (a taste of history, a history of taste) with a mile-long food concourse, music, guided tours, entertainment for children, exhibition and antiques market. , July: second weekend in July. Take a step back in time in this historical re-enactment, with historical costumes, battle scenes, contests, guided tours by night, fireworks. , August: Exhibition and sale of old engravings and graphics in the Napoleonic powder magazine in the quarter of Foscarini. , October: first week in October. Large fair with regional specialities, music, theatrical performances, antiques market.

STRASSOLDO 7 Our journey to Palmanova takes us through Strassoldo, a small medieval village of remarkable beauty with a unique character. Here stand two of the oldest castles of Friuli, the Castello alto and Castello basso. The uniqueness of this place lies in the fact that the buildings have belonged to the same noble family for a thousand years. The upper castle (or castello alto)) is spread out around the main tower that dates back to the sixth century. It was partly pulled down in the nineteenth century, but is still twelve metres tall. The upper castle includes a magnificent palazzo, various annexes that were once used for agricultural and administrative purposes and the church of San Nicolò. Over time the castle suffered from continuous attacks and plundering and devastation, followed by the reconstruction and also new buildings. In the centre of Strassoldo, the church of San Nicolò with its Longobard stone cross bears witness to the age of the settlement. By the Cistigna gateway there is still an old water mill dating back to the twelfth century which was in operation for over six hundred years. The eighteenth-century gardens of the upper castle, with a magnificent Magnolia Passiflora from the fourteenth century, are truly stunning. The village is an ideal place for a relaxing stroll. Today the castle forms a splendid backdrop for congresses, weddings and other events. A curiosity: the numerous personalities of the noble family of Strassoldo include Francesca Romana von Strassoldo-Gräfenberg, who wed Count Radetzky in the castle on February 11, 1798. Radetzky, whose full name was Johann Joseph Wenzel Anton Franz Karl, Count Radetzky of Radetz and Duke of Custozza, rose to fame as the most victorious Austrian general in the battlefields of northern Italy during the various wars of independence of the Italians.

PA L M A N O VA

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5 6 7

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Monuments and historical sites Basilica Campanile Museo Paleocristiano The forum and the decumanus Archeological area The river port National Archaeological Museum

Tourist office

Aquileia

Bikeshops 10 Motstile Nadalin

Hotels 8 Hotel Patriarchi 9 Hotel Aquila Nera

Via Mazzini

Palmanova

Trieste

From Cervignano, along the dead straight road which leads towards the seafront in Grado, attention must be paid not to drive directly past Aquileia, or rather what is left of it. At one time, however, Aquileia was one of the most important sites of the Roman Empire and early Christianity. It was founded in 181 BCE and developed into a prominent metropolis of the Roman empire. It enjoyed a strategically favourable position and represented a point of intersection between Italy and the north-eastern provinces of Noricum, Pannonien and Illyricum. The large river port guaranteed a link to the sea trading routes. Starting from the third century CE the development of the town was thwarted by invasions and sieges by the Barbarians (Gens Gens barbarica), barbarica as the Romans called the wandering tribes that invaded from the north east. It was not stopped for good, however, as the relics of the forum and large private homes from this time, as well as the mighty, three-nave basilica from the fourth century demonstrate. Aquileia was the capital of the tenth â&#x20AC;&#x153;Venetia et Histriaâ&#x20AC;? region. Its inhabitants were cosmopolitan and included Greeks, Syrians, Egyptians, Jews, Celts, and Romans. It is presumed that towards the end of the imperial period the population had reached between 70,000 and 100,000. The people lived from agriculture and cattle breeding. Ships moored at the port, goods were shifted, imported and exported: construction materials such as stone and marble, foodstuffs such as wine, cereals, oil, and spices. Wood, leather, and metals arrived from the north and iron was imported from Austria. Craftsmen produced items in terracotta and

AQUILEIA

Aquileia

AQUILEIA

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glass (as early as 1,000 years before the glass works on Murano) and there were butchers, locksmiths, and cartwrights. During the period in which Italy was conquered by the Longobards, starting in 568, they took over Aquileia and the mainland. In Aquileia the Longobards set up a metropolite who gained secular and ecclesiastical power and adopted the title of patriarch. The church was thus named after the apostle Mark and his disciple Hermagoras who, according to legend, was the first bishop of Aquileia and had a martyrâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s death in 70 CE. Many churches along the Adriatic were named in his memory. The patriarch of Aquileia had a great deal of power which overshadowed even that of the Pope in Rome. From here, Christianity took hold over the southern alpine region and its influence reached as far as Bavaria and Carinthia. When the Longobards set up a dukedom in Cividale and transferred the lever of military and political power, due to the constant attacks during the migration period, the patriarch moved his seat to Grado and Aquileia lost in significance. Instead of Aquileia, with its marshy, unsafe location on a silted port, preference was given to Grado on the neighbouring island with its sturdy city walls. With the ascent of Venice that seized Friuli in 1420, Aquileia lost its worldly power, although the ecclesiastical patriarchate was abolished for good only in 1751.

Sights worth seeing The early Christian complex around the three-nave basilica with its magnificent floor mosaics, the seventy-three-metre tower and the baptistery, which can be reached through a vestibule, is certainly worth a visit. Two crypts, one from the Carolingian age with frescoes, the other with access to freely-arranged excavation findings (Cripta degli Scavi), including mosaics from the fourth century and particularly beautiful mosaics in the adjacent building of the baptistery, can be visited for a fee. Entrance to the basilica is free of charge. Steps lead up to the top of the campanile, which offers an overwhelming view all round. BASILICA AND CAMPANILE 1

1 Piazza Capitolo; tel. 0431 919719 www.aquileia.net

THE FORUM AND THE DECUMANUS 4 The forum with its partly reconstructed portico, was once used as a court, a trading place, and a place for meeting and chatting. In short, it was the social centre of the community. Around the forum there were inns, shops and religious and civil buildings. The decumanus was once the main street and central axis of the town and led to the port. Inscriptions prove that the Aratria Galla road section was named in honour of a wealthy lady who lived in the town. ARCHEOLOGICAL AREA 5 On this site, known in Italian as the Fondo ex Cossar, there are mosaic floors, foundations and relics of buildings dating back to different periods of the town. Due to the building alterations and extensions of the Roman houses, it is not certain how many buildings once stood here.

TOURIST OFFICE E-Mail: info.aquileia@turismo.fvg.it Via Iulia Augusta, Aquileia Tel. 043 1919491

With information on guided tours, audio-guide hire, parking facilities and parking fees, accessibility for the disabled, archive, bike hire, bookshop, prospects, maps, and bus terminal.

AQUILEIA

MUSEO PALEOCRISTIANO 3 The structure of this early Christian monastery museum is partly similar to a convent of Benedictine nuns which once stood here. There are splendid mosaics and the relics of a fourth-century basilica, which can be admired from a raised terrace.

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THE RIVER PORT 6 The Akilis River, which gave the town its name, once flowed through the eastern part of the city. Here there are considerable relics of the former great river port, with piers and quays, a base of harbour cranes, warehouse ramps, and the paved gateways into the town. Between the cypresses along the road there are fragments of tombs, altars, a sundial and pillars â&#x20AC;&#x201C; all bearing witness to the great past of the city. MUSEO ARCHEOLOGICO NAZIONALE 7 The museum is one of the

greatest archaeological museums in northern Italy and looks back on a long tradition, as it was opened under the Austrian rule, way back in 1882, in Villa Cassis Faraone. It is set in a garden and is surrounded by centuries-old trees. The exhibits are of the highest quality and include marble sculptures, mosaics, glassware, gems (pieces of jewellery carved from shells), sacred findings, and amber. With only a few exceptions, they are all from Aquileia and date back to the period between the fifth century BCE and the second century CE.

AQUILEIA

1 Via Roma; tel. 0431 91016 or 0431 91035 www.museoarcheo-aquileia.it

In addition to the above sights, there are many more ruins, excavations, artefacts and fragments to be seen in this extensive area and in the direct vicinity. In view of the sheer wealth of buildings, museums, and objects worth seeing, it is advisable for visitors to go first to the superbly organised tourist office and find out what is on offer (guided tours are also available).

Grado (population: 8,400) and its lagoon form a microcosm all of its own: the blend of a lively bathing resort, steeped in tradition, with relics from the Habsburg ambiance. This historical town offers cultural monuments from the Roman era but also the Middle Ages, set in a charming landscape with the sea, small islands, a beach with the finest golden yellow sand, a bustling fishing port, and a historical city centre with picturesque corners and alleyways alive with people, trattorias and pubs. The dead straight road that leads here from the mainland runs along a dam and divides the lagoon in two between the east and west. The road offers a view over the unique lagoon landscape which is composed of small islands with lush vegetation, fishermanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s huts covered with reeds, flat boats along the canals, the verdigris which covers the cupola and the campanile of the church of Santa Maria di Barbana. Wherever you look birds nest, swim and fly in the shallow water that assumes different colours depending on the weather and the sunlight. Definitely worth a visit!

TOURIST OFFICE 72 Viale Dante - Tel. 0431 80383 - www.gradoturismo.org

GRADO

Grado

Palmanova

Monuments and historical sites 1 Historical city centre 2 Basilica di Santâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Eufemia

Tourist office

Grado 3 Baptistery 4 Lapidarium 5 Basilica di Santa Maria Delle Grazie 6 Piazza Biagio Marin

Trieste

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Sights worth seeing HISTORICAL CITY CENTRE 1 In the early Middle Ages the island

BASILICA DI SANT’EUFEMIA 2 The church is a gem of early Christian art. The oldest part dates back to 579 CE. On the inside there are beautiful marble pillars in different colours, the apse with the fresco of the evangelists and the central figure of Christ in all his glory, the tall, mighty campanile with the statue of Archangel Michael sitting on the top as a weather vane, the fine silver, gold-plated altar, the floor mosaic and in particular the Romanesque pulpit with its unusual domed roof with a Moorish shape.

GRADO

was a retreat for the rural folk who came here looking for shelter before the invasion of the Barbarians, the name given to the wandering tribes from the north east who invaded Italy constantly after the decline of the Roman Empire. Grado was fortified and the patriarch had magnificent buildings erected that can still be admired to this day. The Campo dei Patriarchi is overlooked by buildings from the early Christian period, Santa Maria delle Grazie, Sant’Eufemia, the baptistery, and the lapidary.

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BAPTISTERY 3 The octagonal baptistery is just round the corner. En route there are several fragments with Roman epigraphs and stone statues as well as three sarcophagi, all of which were either fished out of the sea or discovered in excavations. On the inside of the baptistery stands the large, hexagonal baptismal font from the sixth century. LAPIDARIUM 4 Behind the baptistery stands the lapidary with

a collection of precious sarcophagus covers, sculptures, and epigraphs from the Roman and early Christian periods. BASILICA DI SANTA MARIA DELLE GRAZIE 5 The basilica is the oldest testimony of Christian architecture in Grado. The first parts date back to the fourth century and are modelled on Syrian architecture. The church was altered at the end of the sixth century and the surviving floor mosaics on two floors are proof of the two building phases. Worth seeing on the inside are the altar, the holy-water font and the wooden statue of the Virgin Mary, the aspiration of many a pilgrim.

GRADO

Admission to the church is free, opening times 8am–6pm

PIAZZA BIAGIO MARIN 6 The extensive square with the town

hall, hotels and cafés is the heart of life in the town and is just a few steps away from the basilica and the historical city centre, from the Nazario Sauro beach promenade and the sea.

EVENTS , April: the asparagus festival is held from the end of April to the beginning of May in honour of this regal vegetable which has been cultivated for a long time in the area of Fossalon, where it thrives. The main ingredient of all the food served at the stalls and in the restaurants is asparagus. , June: on the first Sunday in June the church community holds a flag-waving boat procession to the island of Barbana, to honour an old solemn promise made when “the Virgin Mary, the queen of the sea and the lagoon” protected Grado from the plague.

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From Palmanova/ Aquileia to Trieste VALLE CAVANATA NATURE RESERVE 1 This nature reserve lies in

the eastern part of the lagoon and was used as a fish farm until 1996. A cleverly devised system of adjustable locks controlled the water level and the migration of the shoals of fish, which swam into the typical lavoriero,, a weir-basket trap made out of reeds. When the fish-farming was stopped the lagoon was declared a Natura 2000 area and has became a true paradise for birds of international importance. Ornithologists can observe as many as 300 different species who nest and pass the winter here, or stop off for a short time as they migrate. A visitorsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; centre offers informative material as well as guided tours and excursions. Riserva Naturale della Valle Cavanata, 1 Via Grado, Fossalon di Grado, tel. 0431 88272, www.parks.it/riserva.valle.cavanata

NATURE RESERVE ON THE ISONZO RIVER MOUTH 2 Between Grado and the mouth of the Isonzo River there is a wide stretch of uncontaminated nature: a marshland with freshwater bogs, reeds, moorland, grassland, alluvial forests, and river landscapes that provide a habitat for numerous species of flora

e Natissa Fium

5 km

Grado

Laguna di Grado

Belvedere

Grado Pineta

Fossavecchia

Aquileia

Terranova

Rondon

Starzano

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Sistiana

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Duino

Monrupino

Sgonico/Zgonik Gabrovizza

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Golfo di Trieste

Miramare

Trieste

Barcola

Opicina/Opčine Opicina/Op

Contovello/Kontovel

9 Devincina/Devin Devincina/Devinščina Grignano 8

Aurisina

Kobljeglava

Slo ve nia

Komen Gorjansko

Prepotto/Praprot

Duino-Aurisina

San Giovanni Villaggio del di Duino Pescatore Visogliano

Panzano

Medeazza

Jamiano/Jamlje

Monfalcone

Ronchi dei Legionari

San Canzian d’Isonzo

Palazzetto

San Lorenzo

Fiumicello

Iso

Terzo d’Aquileia

Turriaco

Papariano

Villa Vicentina

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and fauna. In addition to a wide variety of bird and reptile species, a few herds of Camargue horses live here. Our cycle path takes us right through this very diverse landscape where nature lovers will find covered resting places and picnic areas, bird-watching sites, guided excursions, barbecue areas, information boards, a visitors’ centre with restaurant, binocular hire, toilets, a book store, an internet point and more. Visitors’ centre Isola della Cona, Staranzano, tel. 333 4056800 or 0432 998133, www.riservafoceisonzo.it

BIOTOPE ALONG THE CYCLE PATH 3 After the bridge over the Isonzo, the cycle path runs along the Brancolo canal that ends in the port of Monfalcone. Shortly before the river mouth, the Biotope Risorgive Schiavetti can be found on the left. In this area, large quantities of cold water from the bottom of the river come to the surface forming ponds as well as a short river. On the right side of the road and the canal this has led to the formation of a marshland in which fresh water has mixed with salt water from the nearby sea, creating an interesting habitat for plants and animals (mainly birds), which is also protected, the Biotope marsh of the Cavana River. For guided tours contact Giulia Realdon, Monfalcone school ((liceo liceo scientifico), co tel. 0481 410628.

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F R O M PA L M A N O VA / A Q U I L E I A T O T R I E S T E

THE ISONZO 4

The Isonzo (in Slovenian, Socˇa) River has its source in Triglav, Slovenia, and after 140 kilometres flows into the Adriatic near to Monfalcone. The section that flows through Slovenia is impetuous, crystal clear and popular for water sports, in addition to being used for many canoeing contests. The Italian part, on the other hand, is wide and slow moving. During World War I the Isonzo rose to fame for a sad reason, as the Italian and the Austrian-Hungarian front ran along the river here. Countless, cruel, bloody battles were fought between 1915 and 1917 along its banks, in which many soldiers lost their lives.

The twelfth and last Isonzo battle ended with a catastrophic defeat for the Italian army. The Austrians, reinforced by the German troops, invaded near Kobarit (Caporetto in Italian), forcing the front lines to go back a long way into Italy. The front line did not come to a halt until it reached the Piave River. The expression “era era una Caporetto” Caporetto still exists and refers to a devastating defeat. The Italians thus dismissed commander-in-chief, General Cadorna, and Armando Diaz took over as the leader of the army. In spite of the heavy losses on both sides, the battles were not decisive for the war, which did not end for Italy until the third victorious battle on the Piave River near Vittorio Veneto. Everywhere in the Isonzo area monuments were erected to commemorate the soldiers who fell in battle along the front lines which were constantly redrawn. In Redipuglia alone, a small town in the Karst (the Carso, in Italian) area, not far from Monfalcone, there is a war memorial dedicated to 100,000 soldiers lost in battle.

MONFALCONE 5 The city of Monfalcone (population: 27,300) is known for its shipyards and shipbuilding industry. Until World War I for many years it remained under Austrian rule and belonged to the county of Gorizia and Gradisca. The first shipyards were built in 1908 by the Cosulich family of entrepreneurs. Nowadays the shipyards, which are among the most important in the world for large capacity ships, are part of the state-owned Fincantieri group that builds and repairs cruise ships in Monfalcone. In addition there are numerous lays alongside the marina and a maintenance service for leisure craft. A medieval castle

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watches over the bustling town centre. In the historical city centre, several monuments have survived the turmoil of war. The large sports stadium, Stadio Cosulich, is also a point of interest: it was built between the two World Wars in the “functionalist” style used by the Fascist movement to express the concept of grandezza (greatness). The stadium is located at 40, Via Callisto Cosulich (hence the name of the stadium). Pro Loco (tourist office) Monfalcone, 3 Via Mazzini, tel. 0481 411525, www.monfalcone.info

The cycle route between Monfalcone and Trieste is unfortunately for the most part along the wide, rather busy country road near to the coast, while faster vehicles take the motor-

THE TIMAVO RIVER The cycle path goes directly past the source of the Timavo, making it worth a short stopover! The Timavo is a mysterious river that rises in Slovenia and then disappears, after about fifty kilometres, into a cave near San Canzian (Slovenia). The underground course of the river has yet to be researched, but in any case it comes back to the surface near San Giovanni di Duino after forty kilometres. Its clear waters gush out of several openings in the rocks with a strong current and the river comes to and end after just a few kilometres in the Adriatic. The local folk were unable to explain this strange sight for a long time. They

even resorted to the idea of supernatural powers which led to the erection of religious monuments close to the springs; most recently a Gothic church devoted to St. John the Baptist.

EVENTS , June: in the week of June 13, Festival of Sant’Antonio of Padua with wine tastings, gastronomic booths, concerts and theatrical performances.

F R O M PA L M A N O VA / A Q U I L E I A T O T R I E S T E

way which runs parallel and higher up. On the right, after the village of San Giovanni and just before Duino, the Timavo River appears from around the rock. This spot is well signposted and clearly visible, also thanks to the Gothic church and the small deciduous forest near to the river source. After Duino, we come to the well-known Sistiana bathing resort with its rocky cliffs which are now a nature reserve. The next part of the route is along the Rilke trail, which runs along the clifftops between Duino and Sistiana. Between Duino and Trieste,

GROTTA GIGANTE Due to the exceptional height of its main chamber, this “giant grotto” has been in the Guinness book of records since 1995 as one of the largest show caves in the world. It was discovered and explored as early as 1840 and now belongs to the Trieste branch of the Italian Alpine Club (CAI). A steep climb leads, step by step, to the great dome, with a height of 98.50 metres, a width of 76.30 metres and a

length of 167.60 metres (365,000 m³). Impressive stalactite formations hang down from the walls while large, clear underground lakes glisten down below. Next to the entrance there is a museum on the history of cave explorations. The site is open the whole year round; admission with guide only, 12 Euro. 42/A Borgo Grotta Gigante, Trieste, Sgonico, tel. 040 327312, www.grottagigante.it

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THE KARST REGION 6 The Karst region is a high plain on the narrow hinterland of Trieste on the Italianâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Slovenian border, from where it continues further. Its particular geographical position between the Mediterranean coast and the continental hinterland, with varying climatic zones and subsoil composed of porous and water soluble limestone make this landscape truly unique. The Karst has lent its name to various types of decomposition and erosion, including natural karst phenomena such as clints, dolines, poljes, grottos and caves, underground streams, sinkholes and valleys. The entire landscape is shaped by the dolines, namely through shaped hollows with a diameter which varies from a few metres to over one kilometre and a depth of between one metre and 200 metres. At times small ponds form on the soil, at others the ground temperature drops so low that this thermal inversion allows plant spe-

MUSSELS In the shallow seawater between Duino and Muggia it is impossible not to note the buoys and floats which mark off the areas used for breeding mussels, using a very small, black and sleeky species known as pedocio de Trieste. They hang from thick ropes that are laid out in the water and once they have reached a minimum length of fifty mm they are collected, packed and

sold alive. Fresh mussels can be tasted in restaurants in a variety of dishes all along the coast.

F R O M PA L M A N O VA / A Q U I L E I A T O T R I E S T E

the route follows the country road, a little higher above sea level through an area of macchia mediterranea (typical Mediterranean shrubs and vegetation), with superb views across the blue Adriatic Sea. Behind Sistiana is the spotlessly clean stretch of coastline known as Costa dei Barbari (coast of the barbarians), which is lovingly cared for by visitors and the naturists who stay on this nudist beach. There are numerous narrow points of access to the rocky coastline and pebble beach, also by the small port of Santa Croce before Grignano, then after Miramare until Trieste.

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cies to grow which are normally found in much cooler climates and are atypical for the area. Apart from this, however, the Karst region is known for being a very rural area with a myriad of farms that offer typical products such as cheese, wine, prosciutto (raw ham), honey and olive oil. It is not unusual to find houses here with a small branch attached to the wall to indicate the presence of a typical country inn, known as Osmiza or Osmica, as they are referred to by the local country folk, many of whom speak Slovenian. This derives from the word osem, which means “eight”, and derives from the fact that the license to serve alcoholic drinks was at one time valid for eight days. Parts of this area are now a nature reserve although this botanical garden offers more than the local flora. The white cliffs overlooking the sea are also lined with lively beaches. All good reasons, therefore, not simply to by-pass the Karst region! DUINO, THE CASTLE AND RILKE 7 The stretch of coastline along which Duino is situated is formed by steep, white limestone cliffs, where the Karst region ends abruptly in the Adriatic Sea. This high ground was already inhabited in ancient time. In the Middle Ages a castle was built on a rock spur and became the ancestral home of the Lords of Duino. When the line of power died out the castle came into the possession of the noble Thurn-Hofer und Valsassina family and later, after several conversion and extension phases, it was taken over by the Thurn und Taxis family. In the Habsburg era before World War I Duino was a popular holiday resort. The castle hosted many prominent figures, including Empress Sissi and Emperor Franz

WEEKLY MARKETS GRADO P.zza del Lavoro, Saturdays

MONFALCONE Wednesdays

CERVIGNANO Piazza Indipendenza, Thursdays first Sunday every month, antiques market

TRIESTE Piazza Vecchia, Sundays, antiques market MUGGIA Piazzale Foschiatti, Thursdays

Tel. 040 208120, closed Tuesdays, www.castellodiduino.it

F R O M PA L M A N O VA / A Q U I L E I A T O T R I E S T E

Joseph I, Archduke Maximilian and Charlotte, Eleonora Duse, Johann Strauss, Gabriele D’Annunzio, Paul Valéry, Mark Twain, Victor Hugo and Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria. Franz Liszt gave piano concerts here. In particular Maria Thurn und Taxis, the princess of Hohenlohe, was well known for the court she held at the castle. The poet Rainer Maria Rilke stayed for a long period at the castle where he composed his famous Duineser Elegien. Elegien. A delightful footpath along which he liked to walk was named in his honour: the Rilke trail follows the coastline along the edge of the cliffs and offers spectacular views across the sea and the coast. The white limestone which is typical of the area and referred to rather incorrectly as Istrian marble, has been extracted for thousands of years – a quarry was set up here even in Roman times, the Cava Romana – and used as a building material. From here it was shipped to various destinations: Aquileia, for instance, was built mainly using stone extracted from Aurisio, near Duino, which is also the site of the Roman stone quarry. The castle, the extensive park with its old trees and an underground World War II bunker (which was carved out of the rock and has been renovated and has a small museum) are all open to visitors.

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Trieste Tourist office

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

Monuments and historical sites Castello di San Giusto Museo del Mare Museo Revoltella Museo Sartorio Aquario Marino Basilica di San Giusto Teatro Romano Piazza Unità d’Italia Molo Audace Railway Museum Parish Church of Santa Maria Maggiore

12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23

Palazzo dei Congressi Stazione Marittima Verdi Theatre Stock Exchange Palace Museum of History and Art Jewish Community Museum Morpurgo Museum Serbian-Orthodox Church of San Spiridione Greek-Orthodox Church of San Nicolò dei Greci Church of S. Antonio Synagogue Museum of Risorgimento

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Restaurants Pasticceria Penso Bar buffet D.O.C. Trattoria Nerodiseppia Vineria Pirona

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Hotels Grand Hotel Duchi d’Aosta Hotel Vis a Vis Hotel Italia Hotel San Giusto Hotel Abbazia

Bikeshops 33 Cicli Marcon

Palmanova

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TRIESTE

Trieste Trieste (population: 209,000) lies in the north-east of Italy on a bay in the Adriatic Sea. The city is only a few kilometres away from the Slovenian border which was for decades an impassable part of the Iron Curtain. It belongs to a region that was also referred to as the crown land or “Austrian littoral” before World War I, and which is now divided between Italy, Slovenia and Croatia. Following World War I, and in particular World War II, Trieste underwent a so-called “demarcation”, which led to the loss of much of its hinterland. In 1962 it was merged by the Italian government and designated capital of the autonomous region Friuli Venezia Giulia. For further information, see the section on Istria. In his Trieste, a European Literary Capital, Claudio Magris – journalist and germanist (born April 10, 1939 in Trieste) – defines this singular city as a melting pot of Italian, German-Austrian, Slovenian, Jewish, and Greek cultures. Situated between the harsh Karst region and the Adriatic, Trieste has always been a borderland and seaport with a turbulent history – a blend of different cultures, religions, architectural styles, languages, and ethnic groups. Trieste was the largest and most important port of Austria under the Habsburg rule (1382–1918). At the beginning of the

TRIESTE

twentieth century it was considered a literary centre of the so-called â&#x20AC;&#x153;central European cultureâ&#x20AC;?, where prominent figures worked and lived, including the Italian authors Italo Svevo and Umberto Saba. It also lured writers from abroad such as James Joyce from Ireland and Richard Francis Burton from England, Rainer Maria Rilke, Hugo von Hofmannsthal and many more. In spite of all the efforts made by the Italian Fascist regime between the two World Wars to leave its mark, every nook and cranny of this city evokes Vienna in the Habsburg era. A stroll down the streets of the old town or a trip to discover the surrounding area transports visitors back in time, when Trieste was still the port of the Austrian-Hungarian Empire: a bustling centre of maritime trade and the headquarters of the Austrian trade and war fleet. The atmosphere is alive to this day, especially in the cafĂŠs and restaurants, where the spirits of Emperor Karl VI, his daughter Maria Theresia or Sissi and Franz Joseph seem to linger among the guests. Opposite the station there is a monument dedicated to Sissi, probably the most loved monarch of all time, even if her name in Italian Elisabetta appears in a modest inscription at the foot of the statue. In the centre of Piazza della Borsa, in the heart of the city, surrounded by historical buildings from the nineteenth century,

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there is a column with the bronze statue of the Austrian Emperor, Leopold I. In Piazza Unità d’Italia, which the locals still refer to as Piazza Grande and arguably is the world’s largest square directly overlooking the sea, surrounded by elegant cafés and impressive, magnificent buildings, there is a Baroque column with a statue dedicated to Emperor Karl VI. His daughter, Maria Theresia is attributed with the renovation of large parts of the city. Despite all the efforts made by the Italian government to make Trieste one of Italy’s great cities, its days of glory are long gone. However, the opening of the borders following the entry of Slovenia and Croatia in the EU have also opened new economic opportunities for the future.

TOURIST OFFICE 1 Via dell’Orologio, on the corner of Piazza Unità d’Italia (4b) - 34121 Trieste Tel. 040 3478312 - www.turismofvg.it

TRIESTE ON THE INTERNET

TRIESTE

WWW.UNITS.IT The homepage of the University of Trieste with a host of information on the city, also available in English. WWW.RETECIVICA.TRIESTE.IT The citizens’ network of Trieste also provides information on culture, sport facilities, traffic, tourism, social events and more. Available in Italian only. WWW.TRIESTETRASPORTI.IT Information on public transportation services by bus, train, and ferries. Available in Italian only. WWW.PROVINCIA.TRIESTE.IT The home page of the Province of Trieste, in Italian only, on the environment, cultural heritage, flora and fauna. WWW.TRIESTECULTURA.IT A portal with information on ongoing cultural events, museums, libraries, architecture, exhibitions, meetings and conferences.

WWW.TURISMOFVG.IT The official website of the regional umbrella organisation for tourism; it offers full information on accommodation, sights and more, divided into various areas, including Trieste. Also available in English.

WWW.PROMOTRIESTE.IT The website of a consortium which promotes leisure and business events. With information on the city, holiday packages and an online hotel-booking service. Also available in English. WWW.ILPICCOLO.IT The online edition of the most widely read daily newspaper, founded in 1881.

Guided city tours, daily, starting at 10.30am from the Info point in the city centre, 8.50 Euro

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A potted history For detailed information see the section on Istria. The bay, the port and the surrounding hills were already an ancient settlement area when the Romans fortified their borders in the second century BCE east of Aquileia, and incorporated Tergeste, as Trieste was called at the time, in their empire. Fifth century Decline of the Roman Empire, the city comes under Byzantine rule. Eighth century The Franks are the new rulers of the city. Tenth century Trieste and the surrounding area are governed by a Prince-bishop together with a city council. 1369 Venice occupies Trieste and moves out after eleven years 1380 Trieste comes under the patriarchate of Aquileia. 1382 The city places itself under the protection of Archduke Leopold III of Austria and, apart from a few brief interludes, remains under Habsburg rule until the end of World War I. Sixteenth century Several outbreaks of plague and poor harvests decimate the population in Trieste to just a few thousand. 1717 Trieste is declared a free port by Emperor Karl VI giving rise to a rapid economic boom, surpassed only by Vienna in terms of wealth and splendour.

TRIESTE

1740â&#x20AC;&#x201C;1780 Empress Maria Theresia, the daughter of Karl VI, pursues the same development policy. Trieste becomes the gateway to the Danube monarchy. New urban districts are created, such as the Borgo Teresiano. Merchants from Turkey and Greece and also Jews settle here. Nineteenth century Trieste is a bustling trade centre, home of the Assicurazioni Generali insurance company, the Lloyd Triestino shipping company and the war fleet. The SĂźdbahn (southern railway) connects Vienna with the Adriatic passing through Trieste and the construction of the Suez Canal shortens shipping routes, bringing the transportation of goods from the east to continental Europe via Trieste. Tensions arise between ethnic groups, Italian irredentists from bourgeois and intellectual circles stir up anti-Austrian feelings. The Slovenians, who account for one quarter of the population in the city and the majority in the surrounding rural areas, are ostracised. 1918 World War I is now at an end and Trieste welcomes the Italian troops as liberators. The city and its hinterland and the Dalmatian coast become part of Italy and a strict policy of Italianisation begins. In spite of the huge efforts made by the Italian Fascist regime, Trieste enters a period of economic downfall which will see it decline over the coming decades to become an insignificant provincial town. Twenty-first century The opening of the EU borders into Slovenia offers a new opportunity for Trieste to free itself from its isolated position as a border town.

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Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian of Habsburg- Österreich was born in Vienna in 1832. A non-governing member of the dynasty, he was the younger brother of Emperor Franz Joseph of Austria and, at the tender age of twenty-two, was already commander of the Imperial and Royal navy, and in 1859 had become governor general of the Kingdom of Lombardy-Venetia. When, in the same year, Maximilian and his wife Charlotte of Belgium lost power over Lombardy in the Austrian defeat at the battle of Solferino, they moved back into the castle of Miramare, which had been built for them. His unfortunate performance in world politics began shortly afterwards. The French Emperor Napoleon III allowed the military to intervene in Mexico where, against the will of the rightful President Benito Juárez, he wanted to establish a kingdom under the French military and economic rule. At the instigation of the French emperor, on April 10, 1864 Maximilian was declared Emperor of Mexico, in spite of the resistance of the Mexican popula-

tion. Against the advice of his family, in 1864 he agreed to be crowned Emperor of Mexico in the castle of Miramare. Upon his arrival in Mexico, however, he was forced to recognise that the Mexican people and all the American states were behind Mexican President Juárez who had been removed from power by the French. In Maximilian, in fact, they saw unwanted European interference. When the American Civil War ended in 1866, the French were forced to withdraw their troops from Mexico under pressure from the United States. Emperor Maximilian was no longer able to hold his ground against the popular Juárez and his pleas for help in Europe remained unanswered; he lost his power, was sentenced to death by a court martial and was executed on June 19, 1867 at Querétaro while Charlotte was in Europe, trying to organise help. The embalmed corpse of Maximilian was brought to Trieste from where he was then transported to Vienna and buried in the Kapuzinergruft, the tomb of the Habsburg family.

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MAXIMILIAN, THE EMPEROR OF MEXICO AND LORD OF MIRAMARE

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THE BORA WIND An inseparable element of Trieste in wintertime is the Bora: a cold fall wind which violently and spasmodically reaches the city from the northeast at speeds of up to 100 kilometres per hour or even more. The temperature then sinks rapidly, the white caps of the waves fly across the sea and ropes are stretched along the pier to prevent pedestrians from being swept away. In the same way the Venetians are used to the acqua alta (literally “high water”), the Bora is quite normal for the inhabitants of Trieste.

EVENTS , October: since 1969 the Barcolana regatta has taken place every year on the second Sunday in October in the Gulf of Trieste. Around 2,000 sailing yachts participate in this sailing event, also known as the Coppa d’Autunno (Autumn Cup) which is one of the largest in the world and brings people together from around the globe.

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MUSEUMS

1 MUSEO CIVICO DEL CASTELLO DI SAN GIUSTO Castello di San Giusto 3 Piazza della Cattedrale; tel. 040 309362 The fortress of San Giusto is one of the landmarks of Trieste. Inside the castle there is a museum with a vast collection of weapons, equipment and devices from the former arsenal and also firearms, taken partly from the estate of the Italian writer Giuseppe Caprin. In the summer, concerts and various events take place against the backdrop of the inner courtyard. 2 MUSEO DEL MARE www.museodelmaretrieste.it 5 Via Campo Marzio; tel. 040 304885 An amusing exhibition which tells the city’s maritime history. It has a display of ship models, devices and instruments and also illustrates the history

of the steamboat propeller that was developed in Trieste, where it was used for the first time in 1829. 3 MUSEO REVOLTELLA www.museorevoltella.it 27 Via Diaz; tel. 040 6754350 / 040 6754158 / 040 6754137 Pasquale Revoltella, a businessman and financier as well as president of the Assicurazioni Generali insurance company, had a magnificent villa built here in the middle of the nineteenth century; after his death, the villa, its furnishings and art treasures became property of the local authority. The museum complex was extended and now includes a full block of houses and a total exhibition surface of 4,000 m2. The art collection includes works by Bartolini, Hayez, Palizzi, Guttuso, and Fontana and sculptures by Manzù and Arnaldo Pomodoro.

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FVG CARD Info: www.turismofvg.it The card costs 15 Euro for 48 hours or 29 Euro for 7 days. Anyone who likes museums should definitely opt for the FVG card. This provides free admission to a large number of museums, exhibitions, artistic and cultural sites in the region of Friuli Venezia Giulia, such as the Miramare castle, the Grotta Gigante karst cave, the basilica and crypt of Aquileia, the botanical garden and fifteen museums in Trieste itself.

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8 CASTELLO DI MIRAMARE www.castello-miramare.it Viale Miramare; tel. 040 224143 In the mid-nineteenth century the rock spur on the coast located fifteen kilometres west of Trieste was still barren and inhospitable. In 1855, Archduke Maximilian von Habsburg had a castle designed by architect Carl Junker in the eclectic style, which was surrounded by a 22-hectare park with â&#x20AC;&#x153;Italian gardensâ&#x20AC;?. Archduke Maximilian lived here until the year 1864. The furnishings and the state rooms on the upper floors as well as the living quarters on the ground floor are all open to visitors. This white castle, which rests on a cliff high above the blue Adriatic Sea amidst the macchia mediterranea (typical Mediterranean shrubs and vegetation), has since become a symbol of Trieste. 4 MUSEO SARTORIO www.triestecultura.it 1 Largo Papa Giovanni XXIII; tel. 040 301479 This restored villa which dates back to the eighteenth century contains

nineteenth-century furnishings and collections that were bought by the owners at the time, the Sartorio family, which had moved to Trieste from Sanremo. The works on display include Biedermeier furniture, Flemish Gobelin tapestries, majolicas (a type of tin-glazed pottery), porcelain, over 200 drawings by Tiepolo but also modern paintings and sculptures. 5 AQUARIO MARINO www.triestecultura.it 2 Molo Pescheria, tel. 040 306201 A fine Jugendstil building dating back to 1913 which directly overlooks the sea houses the aquarium. The water is pumped directly from the sea into the tall clock tower, from where it is gradually fed into twenty-five tanks containing a myriad of different sea creatures.

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Sights worth seeing BASILICA DI SAN GIUSTO 6 The ancient town of Tergeste stood

on the plateau which lies at the top of the hill of San Giusto. In the ninth and tenth century two churches were built on the ruins of ancient buildings, using the Roman marble that remained. These two churches were later merged into one. The compact, square-section tower and the fine rose window above the portal date back to the fourteenth century. Highlights are the twelfth-century mosaics in the left apse, which depict the Virgin Mary sitting on a throne, the Archangels Michael and Gabriel, and the apostles. In the right apse there are mosaics and frescoes depicting the life of Saint Just. The floor mosaics made from marble in different shades are also of great value. The basilica overlooks a square, which offers a superb view of the historical city centre and the sea, and also houses the remains of the first-century Roman basilica including relics of columns and other parts of the building. TEATRO ROMANO 7 This theatre – its semi-circular terraced

rows and stage are still extant – was very close to the sea in Roman times but the area was successively modified to make way for a new city district and the harbour mole. The theatre could accommodate around 6,000 people.

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JEWISH TRIESTE There are many buildings which evoke the importance of the Jewish community over the centuries: the 400-yearold Jewish cemetery, the former Risiera concentration camp of San Sabba, another cemetery (4, Via della Pace) as well as numerous palazzi dating back to the heyday of trade in the nineteenth century. At the end of the seventeenth century a ghetto was set up that soon became the economic hub of the city. The narrow alleys were alive with people and full of noise, and older inhabitants of Trieste still use the expression “far gheto” which means something like “to make a din”. The ghetto was not abolished until 1785, under Joseph II. When the new, monumental synagogue (19, Via San Francesco) was built in 1912, one of the largest and most majestic temples of Europe was opened that gives an idea of the influence of the Jewish community at the time. The imposing central domes rest on four mighty marble pillars, while the outside has impressive oriental-style decorations and rosettes bearing the star of David.

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Info: Jewish community of Trieste, 19 Via San Francesco, tel. 040 371466, www.triestebraica.it

PIAZZA UNITÀ D’ITALIA 8 This is considered the world’s largest

square directly overlooking the sea. It was designed in 1879 and rearranged in 1999 by the French architect Bernard Huet. Imposing palazzi are dotted around the square. Facing away from the sea, on the left stands the government building, next to the headquarters of the prefect, Palazzo Stratti and Palazzo Modello. Straight ahead stands the town hall with its central tower and large clock, then Palazzo Pitteri and finally the unique building of the Lloyd Triestino shipping company which now houses the regional government. Next to the column with the statue of Emperor Karl VI, the Baroque Fountain of the Four Continents does not include Australia, the fifth continent which had yet to be discovered when the fountain was built, in 1751.

the last tramway still in operation (the other lines were already removed decades ago), but is also unique among European tramways: along a very steep section of the route which stretches over a total of five kilometres between the historical city centre of Trieste and connects the port and the Opicina suburb on the Slovenian border, the tram is taken up and down the hill by a funicular locomotive “on piggyback”. The tramway celebrated its first centenary in 2002 and it has been automatically operated since 2005. It was fully refurbished in 2012 and is expected to be up and running again in 2014. The tramway is a much loved tradition of the inhabitants of Trieste and a tourist attraction at the same time; on the ride uphill from the port to a height of 348 metres above sea level, Trieste can be admired in all its beauty. Bikes may also be taken on board. The tram departs from Piazza Oberdan every 20 minutes. For timetable information call 040 7795111, www.triestetrasporti.it

THE SEA ON THE DOORSTEP For the locals it would be impossible

to imagine life without bathing in the sea, as the beach and bathing resorts really are almost on the doorstep. The beach promenade stretches without interruption from the pine groves in Barcola to Miramare, Muggia, and Sistiana. There are innumerable bathing resorts, each unique in its own right, such as the famous Lanterna, also known as el pedocin (little flea), which was inaugurated in 1903 and was recently renovated. The wall, with a height of over three metres that once

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TRIESTE–OPICINA TRAMWAY The “Tramvia di Opicina” is not only

EATING AND DRINKING

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TAVERNETTA AL MOLO 11 Riva Massimiliano e Carlotta, Grignano (ten km from Trieste), tel. 0402 24275 Reasonably priced fish restaurant on the quayside near to Miramare with a sea view and open air seating. 24 PASTICCERIA PENSO 11 Via Diaz, tel. 040 301530 A centrally located pastry shop with superb cakes and sweets such as frittole, typical balls sweet dough, fried and coated in sugar. 25 BAR BUFFET D.O.C. 10 Via Guglielmo Marconi, tel. 340 2960698 Bar Buffet is a characteristic restaurant that offers an array of appetizers and typical local dishes. An “eat all you can eat” formula with vegetables au gratin, meatballs, mixed cooked meat and porzìna con capuzi, cooked pork neck with

cabbage, mustard and horseradish, plus several pasta dishes. 26 TRATTORIA NERODISEPPIA 23 Via Cadorna, tel. 040 301377 A popular, reasonably priced restaurant serving mainly Italian and local dishes with a good wine selection. The considerable consumption of wine can be seen from the original bar counter made with stacked wooden wine crates. 27 VINERIE PIRONA 6/c Via dell’Annunziata, tel. 392 9297351 A popular, rustic wine bar in the historical city centre. Small tables, current wine menu and snacks with cold meats and cheese are jotted down on a blackboard.

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separated men from women and children, still stands to this day! Along our cycle path, which runs directly adjacent to the coastal road, just a few kilometres west of Trieste by the entrance into town lies the very popular beach of Barcola. For a list of bathing resorts with address and phone numbers, visit: www.turismofvg.it/Sea/Trieste-sea.

MOLO AUDACE 9 The pier, which juts a staggering 246 metres

into the water in the harbour basin in front of the large city square Piazza Unità d’Italia, cannot be overlooked It was formerly named Molo San Carlo after a Spanish war vessel that sank here. Only when World War I ended did an Italian ship moor here for the first time, on November, 3 1918: the destroyer Audace (bold) which gave the pier its new name. At the end, on the side looking out to sea, a bronze plaque placed at the foot of a column evokes this incident. Merchant ships once moored here to unload their cargo. It has since become an essential part of a trip to Trieste to take a stroll down this promenade which offers a spectacular view of the magnificent palazzi and the historical city centre across the sea.

importation of coffee. It had the same importance for Italy that the Thames Estuary or Liverpool once had for the UK. Over 40% of all coffee bean imports are processed in Trieste, which is the home of famous coffee roasting companies such as Hausbrandt and Illy. The latter, in fact, has developed into an important company which employs around 700 people and even organises training courses to teach the correct way to roast coffee from the best varieties, how to prepare different blends, and how to serve coffee correctly. There is hardly another city with so many beautiful, well-preserved and wellkept coffee houses: most are in true Viennese style with fine wooden furnishings, mirrors, several newspapers in wooden batons, some with artistic decorations. Below is a list of the best known coffee houses, many of which are also pastry shops and restaurants: Caffè Tommaseo, 4/c Piazza Tommaseo Caffè Torinese, 2 Corso Italia, on the corner of Via Roma Caffè Stella Polare, 14 Via Dante Caffè San Marco, 18 Via Battisti Pasticceria Pirona, 12 Largo Barriera Vecchia

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A COFFEE IN TRIESTE The port of Trieste once specialised in the

Svudrija

Piran

Lucija/Lucia

Sturnjan Stu njan

Ma re Adriatic o

Portorož

5 km

Šared

Izola

Šmarje

Koper

Rižana

Ankaran/Ancarano

Gažon

Muggia

Plavje Škoﬁje A1

Noghere

Gregori egoriči egori Marezige ezige

S lo v e n Slo niiia

Draga

Gračišče

Bezovica

Predloka Kubed

Osp

Beka

San Dorligo della Valle V

Prebenico/ ebenico/ Prebeneg

Aquilinia/ Žavlje

Domio/ Domjo

Pesek di Gozzana

Basovizza

I tal i a

Padriciano/Padriče Padriciano/Padri

Bertoki Pobegi Prade Čežarji

Kolomban/Colombano

Golfo di T Trieste

T Trieste

Lipica

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From Trieste to Portorož MUGGIA 1 South of Trieste, on the Slovenian border, lies the

charming little town of Muggia. It lies on an ancient settlement area and has relics from the Bronze Age. In the Middle Ages it came under the rule of Aquileia and from 1420 to 1797 it was under the Venetian Republic. Muggia was in fact a stronghold of Venice, and a fortress was built to defend the Venetian estates in Istria and Dalmatia. Immediately adjacent was Trieste, a part of the Austrian Habsburg Empire and arch enemy of Venice. After Muggia was handed over to Austria a thriving shipbuilding industry developed here, and in 1857– 1858 the Stabilimento Tecnico Triestino was founded – the largest shipbuilding yard in the Austrian-Hungarian Monarchy that until 1912 was the only shipyard with the capacity to build the largest battle ships of the Imperial and Royal navy. In the second half of the twentieth century, following the eastwest conflict and due to the fact that the town lay on the edge of the Iron Curtain, the shipbuilding industry in Muggia started to suffer. The influence of Venice can still be felt everywhere in Muggia: in the local dialect, the architecture, the names of the alleyways (which are referred to as calli as in Venice) and also the town square, Piazza Marconi, a campiello in true Venetian style. In the heart of this picturesque little town stands the cathedral of San Giovanni e Paolo, with its white façade made in Istrian stone, a refined rose window and the relief depicting the Virgin Mary with Child. A castle keeps watch over the old port. Since the end of the Cold War and the entry of Slovenia in the EU in 2004, Muggia is once again growing in popularity as a tourist and trade centre with almost 600 wharves for sports and pleasure boats.

MUGGIA TOWN HALL 1 Piazza Marconi, Muggia - Tel. 040 3360111 www.comune.muggia.ts.it

ISTRIA

Istria Istria is a peninsula which juts out far into the Adriatic Sea and stretches from the Gulf of Trieste up to the bay of Kvar by Rijeka. With a total surface area of 3,476 square kilometres, it is part of three countries: a small territory in the north-west belongs to Italy, a neighbouring area to the east belongs to Slovenia, and the largest part is in Croatia. The population of Istria is concentrated around the very articulated coastline, which with its rocky shores and pebbly beaches is very open to tourists. The more agricultural inland has only a few inhabitants. Due to its position on the border, multi-ethnic Istria has always been vulnerable to tensions owing to the very varied interests of the border states.

A potted history THE ORIGINS Istria comes from Histra, the name given by the ancient Romans to a tribe in the north-east of the peninsula, which was already inhabited at the time. The first man-made stone utensils, which date back to around 250,000 years ago, were found in the caves of Loza (not far from Postojna). From the eighth to the third century BCE the first known Illyrian tribes settled on the northern coast of the Balkans. The Greeks traded with these settlers and the first Greek colonies

THE ROMAN ERA In the year 168 BCE the Illyrians came under Roman rule. Over time, the entire area of modern-day Istria became part of the Roman province of Illyria and since the first century the entire territory which now comprises Slovenia and Croatia also lay within the borders of the Roman Empire. The Romans divided the province into the mainland of Pannonia and the coastline area of Dalmatia. Many of the inhabitants of Istria served the Romans and had a successful career as officials or joined the army. One even became emperor: Diocles from Dalmatia (284â&#x20AC;&#x201C;305 CE), whose full title was Marcus Aurelius Gaius Valerius Diocletianus. Many monuments dating back to this period still remain in Istria and along the Dalmatian coast, such as the Diocletian palace in Split or the very well preserved and large arena in Pula, which can accommodate 26,000 spectators. In ervar Porat and Lorun, on the coast between Novigrad and Pore , there are two extensive, magnificent residential areas where ceramic, olive oil and wine are produced. Near to Izola, in Simonov Zaliv, the

ISTRIA

were established on the Adriatic coast. The most important were Pharos, now the town of Stari Grad (on the island of Hvar) and Issa, now known as Vis, on the island with same name. In the third century BCE under King Agron, the Illyrians founded their own state, Illyria.

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remains of an extensive settlement of villas with its own port and an aqueduct can be found. The coastline region still has a distinct atmosphere from Ancient Rome. Christianity became widely popular in the area as early as the third century. The ancient world came to an end with the conquests of the Avars, who advanced from the deep plains of Pannonia, and with the later settlement of the Slavs in the seventh century. THE EMIGRATION OF NATIONS AND BYZANTIUM The Roman Em-

pire was divided at the end of the fourth century. The mainland portion which now belongs to Slovenia and Croatia remained part of the Western Roman Empire, while Istria, the stretch of land along the coast, went to the Byzantine Empire. At the end of the eighth century, Istria came under the power of the king of the Franks, Charlemagne. Slavic kingdoms were formed in the hinterland of Dalmatia and Croatia, which stretched along a narrow strip of coastline from eastern Istria to Split. German princes took over the area now known as Slovenia and administered the territory according to a feudal system. The area was under the temporal power of the patriarchs of Aquileia.

ISTRIA

VENICE IN THE HABSBURG ERA AND THE OTTOMAN EMPIRE

Starting from the tenth century, the rich Republic of Venice gained increasing power along the north-east of the Adriatic and expanded its dominion to Istria and Dalmatia. An exception was Trieste that came under Habsburg rule in 1382, while its hinterland already became part of the Habsburg Empire at the end of the thirteenth century. In the course of the fifteenth century the Turks of the Ottoman Empire expanded greatly towards the west, forcing the Croatians and the Slovenians further and further in this direction. Towards the end of the seventeenth century the Turks once again came close to Vienna where they were finally defeated and from then on found themselves on the defensive. Peace reigned for many years and under the role of Empress Maria Theresia (1740â&#x20AC;&#x201C;1780) there was an economic boom. There was an administrative reform and compulsory education adopted the national language. Maria Theresia son, Joseph II, abolished serfdom in 1782 and granted everyone the right to freedom of religion. In 1797 the first Slovenian newspaper, Ljubljanske Novice, was published.

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In 1797 Venice was captured by Napoleon almost without a fight and the last Doge, Ludovico Manin, was forced to abdicate. One year later, Venice came under Austrian dominion but it was not for long, since as early as 1806, after Austria had lost several battles, the French returned as rulers to Venice and the regions in its control, including Istria and Dalmatia. The Napoleonic administration created the Illyrian provinces, with Ljubljana as the capital. Istria and Dalmatia were part of this administrative district. In the short period that followed, until 1814, the French began an important administrative reform, abolished feudalism, built schools and roads and lay the foundations for industrialisation. Following the defeat of Napoleon on the European battlefields and after the Vienna Congress, the administrative layout was changed and the Habsburg Empire was extended to include the Adriatic coastline and Venice. The economic boom that was starting in Europe also left its mark here, particular in the winegrowing, mining, textile and ship-building industries. In 1849 the railway reached as far as Ljubljana and even further in 1857, to Trieste. When the heir to the Austrian throne, Archduke Franz Ferdinand, was murdered on June 28, 1914 in Sarajevo, World War I

ISTRIA

FROM PAST TO PRESENT DAY

began. The Slovenians fought loyally on the side of the Imperial and Royal armies, mainly on the Russian front (Josip Broz Tito was taken prisoner here by the Russians). On May 24, 1915, Italy declared war on Austria-Hungary and the fighting began on home soil along the Isonzo (So a) River. From Trieste to South Tyrol, the troops on both sides fought against each other under inhuman conditions on the front line along the Alps, where over one million soldiers lost their lives.

ISTRIA

MODERN TIMES After the decline of the Habsburg Empire, on

October 6, 1918 the National Council of Slovenes, Croats, and Serbs gathered and resolved to detach themselves from Austria-Hungary and unite all the southern Slavs to form a new country. Slovenia lost a large part of its territory to Italy, however (including Istria, with the Treaty of Rapallo). After a referendum it was decided that southern Carinthia would still be part of what remained of Austria. Within this new State which was dominated by the Serbians, the Slovenians felt unsatisfied and under-represented. Even the name of Slovenia was changed to Drava Banovina, and the country combining all provinces was called Yugoslavia. In 1934, King Alexander was assassinated in Marseilles by terrorists from Macedonia and Croatia, and succeeded by his son Peter II, with a regency headed by his uncle Paul, as the king was still under age at the time. When World War II began, Yugoslavia was still politically neutral. The German Reich, which considered Yugoslavia to be a factor of uncertainty on its south-eastern border, also

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involved Yugoslavia in World War II when it made a bomb attack on Belgrade on April 6, 1941. German and Italian troops crossed over the border into Slovenia and forced Yugoslavia to surrender. The occupation had fatal consequences for Slovenia, the land was divided and the south and west, up to and including Ljubljana, were occupied by the Italian troops and subordinated to the German Reich until Mussolini was overthrown in October 1943. Hungary kept onto the areas in the north-east, but the resistance movement was formed shortly afterwards. In Serbia, that was still occupied by the German forces, the Chetniks (paramilitary groups who were loyal to the king) gathered around Draza Mihajlovic and immediately started fighting for and against the occupation. In Croatia and Bosnia, the Ustaša regime of the fascist Independent State of Croatia was established: this was independent of Italy and of the Reich and had to surrender both the Dalmatian coast and the islands which lay before the coastline to Italy. Macedonia was under the administrative rule of the Bulgarian Supreme Committee, while Kosovo and north-western Macedonia were attached to Greater Albania, which was dependent on Italy. Montenegro was occupied and placed under the rule of the Italian governor and the Batschka was occupied by the Hungarian troops. In 1937, under the leadership of Josip Broz – whose pseudonym was Tito – the resistance of the Communist Partisans was formed. The victory of the partisans is, at the same time, connected with the gloomiest chapter of communist rule in Croatia, Slovenia and the whole of Yugoslavia, namely the very widespread violence at the end of the war and in the subsequent months. For the most part, the Yugoslavian communists gained power without any help from outside. At the beginning of 1946, Yugoslavia received a constitution based on the Soviet model and was divided into six provinces having equal rights. In the years following 1948, Yugoslavia broke slowly away from Stalinist communism, gradually approaching the West in its foreign policies. Yugoslavia gained a leading role in the Non-Aligned Movement established in 1961. Open borders starting from the end of the 1970s

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made it possible for workers to emigrate and tourism to develop. With the death of Tito on May 4, 1980, the unrest between the Kosovo Albanians in 1981, and the economic stagnation, Yugoslavia entered a period of state crisis. In 1987, the new Serbian party leader, Slobodan Miloševi , managed to work up the mood for national mobilisation in Serbia, thus gaining the sympathies of a large part of the Serbians. When he succeeded in revoking the independence of Kosovo in March 1989, the constitutional consent for the nation as a whole was fractured and the mistrust of the other republics towards Serbia grew. The All-Yugoslav party disintegrated in January 1990, when the delegations of Slovenia and Croatia left the Belgrade convention, under protest. THE FREE STATES OF SLOVENIA AND CROATIA During 1989, new parties were formed in Slovenia and Croatia which were tolerated by the system and the dialogue between the various provinces continued in vain until the middle of 1991: while Slovenia and Croatia suggested changing Yugoslavia into a confederation of independent states, Miloševi strove towards Serbia becoming dominant. On June 25, 1991, Slovenia and Croatia declared their independence from Serbia. The Yugoslav People’s Army responded by invading Slovenia, although they were unprepared for the tough resistance put up by the Territorial Defence Forces (or Teritorijalna obrana). Slovenia gained independence without great difficulties, while the violence was escalating in Croatia. Very soon, the army was fight-

THE HISTORY OF ISTRIA FROM ITALYâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S POINT OF VIEW Italy has

never fully got over the chapter in its history regarding Istria

ISTRIA

ing on the side of the Serbian guerrillas in the border areas, which were inhabited mostly by Serbians. Vukovar, on the Danube River, and Dubrovnik became the most widely known war zones. Around one third of the territory came under Serbian control and was proclaimed the Republic of Serbian Krajina. Around 200,000 Croatians either fled or were driven out of the country. The military forces of Croatia were able to hold their ground to the extent that on January 2, 1992 a permanent ceasefire was agreed together with the decision to station UN troops in the area. Following a military action, all the Krajina regions along the western border between Bosnia and Croatia once again came under Croatian control in 1995. Negotiations were held in Dayton which ended the war in BosniaHerzegovina, and on November 12 the Erdut Agreement was signed, putting an end to the war for good. Croatia and Serbia agreed to the peaceful reintegration of eastern Slovenia, which was still under Serbian control, in Croatian territory. The reintegration was concluded in 1998 and since then Croatians and Serbians have lived peacefully side-by-side once again; they removed their boundaries and have had the best possible relations with their neighbouring states. Since 2004, Slovenia has been a full member of the EU, with the Euro as its currency; Croatia has been a member since July 1, 2013 and it is well on the way to becoming a full member.

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and Dalmatia and still mourns the loss of these regions, which were once part of its territory. UNDER VENETIAN RULE These regions were governed by the Se-

renissima for many centuries, and at least in the coastal towns there was a considerably large population of Italians, who formed the majority in many locations. When the Republic of Venice was overpowered by Napoleon in 1797 and the Congress of Vienna was signed, various regions were allocated to Austria. THE NEW ITALY In 1866, the former kingdom of Lombardy-Venetia situated on the mainland of the Italian peninsula became part of the new Kingdom of Italy; only Trieste, Istria and the strip of coastline making up Dalmatia were excluded from this agreement and remained part of the Austrian–Hungarian Empire. WORLD WAR I When Italy emerged victorious from World War I, these regions in the east could finally be “brought home”. On November 3, 1918 a ceasefire marked the end of World War I between the Austrian-Hungarian Empire and Italy. An Italian fascist combat unit was set up in Istria as early as April 1919, the first of its kind in Italy. When the Treaty of Versailles was signed on June 28, 1919, Italy received South Tyrol and the region of Istria and Dalmatia, which until then had been under

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WORLD WAR II In the meantime World War II broke out. The Italian regime, under the dictator Benito Mussolini, together with Hitler and its Germany, declared war on the weak and shattered Kingdom of Yugoslavia in 1941. Italy incorporated further areas into its territory but over the following two years the fortunes of war were overturned. In 1943 Italy surrendered and signed a separate peace agreement with the Allies, which led to the German occupation of Italy as well as the regions of Istria and Dalmatia. The Communist Partisans under Tito put up intense resistance. When the war ended in 1945, the whole of Istria and Dalmatia were fully in the hands of the new communist rulers. In the last months of the war and immediately afterwards, out of rage and revenge for the ruthless Italian rule, the occupying forces carried out atrocious cruelties on the Italian fascist authorities and collaborators, and partly also on innocent civilians. Many thousands were thrown down karst sinkholes known as foibe either after being shot or still

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Austrian rule. Italy and the newly founded state of Yugoslavia signed an agreement in Rapallo on November 12; this put an official seal on the gain of the territory – the Venezia Giulia – and gave rise to a strict policy of Italianisation. In 1923, all the place names in Croatia and Slovenia were Italianised and Italian was introduced in the schools as the only language of instruction. In the towns and villages, fascist rulers (known as podestà)) were appointed, not by election but by nomination.

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alive. The victims included Slavic non-communists who opposed the attempts of the Yugoslavian troops under Tito to annex the area. The exact number of victims is unknown. The most scientifically valid number of Italian civilians who died in the foibe massacre lies between 4,000 and 5,000. THE POST-WAR PERIOD After the war, most of Istria and the Dalmatian coast were lost to the Yugoslavian autonomous republics of Slovenia and Croatia. For the area around Trieste, which was greatly mixed and contended, the Free Territory of Trieste was established as a temporary solution in 1947, placing the city under international control. After this arrangement was invalidated on October 5, 1954 during the London Conference, the city of Trieste, together with the surrounding area (zone A) and the hinterland in the south (zone B) were handed over to Yugoslavia. The final subdivision of the area was regulated in the Treaty of Osimo and came into force in 1977. In economic terms, the subdivision was a bitter setback for Trieste because its seaport had no hinterland. The communist state of Yugoslavia developed ports which rivalled with Trieste which consequently sank to become a provincial town, far from the nerve centres of politics and economy.

Slovenia is a relatively young state. Following the break-up of Yugoslavia, it managed to snatch a narrow strip of coastline from the Istrian peninsula and gain access to the Adriatic Sea. Most of its territory is on the mainland. The difference in the landscape, climate, culture and way of living are just as diverse between the Adriatic coast, the central inland and the mountainous land of the Julian Alps as the history of these areas. A part of the Alps stretches as far as the north of the country, where the highest mountain, the Triglav, the three peaks of which are depicted on the coat of arms of Slovenia, soars 2,864 metres above sea level. Although our route takes us along the coast in Istria, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll take a brief look at Slovenia on the whole. On May 1, 2004 the country, whose capital city is the centrally located Ljubljana, was one of ten accession countries to become a member of the European Union. According to the last census, 83% declared to be Slovenians, while other ethnic groups such as Serbians, Croatians, Bosnians, Magyars, and Italians do not exceed a total of 2%. The official language is Slovenian, in addition to which there are also mixed areas of indigenous minorities in which the Italian

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Slovenia

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and Hungarian languages benefit from particular protection. Along the narrow Istrian strip of coastland, for example, Italian is recognised as the second official language, which is why the official road signs are in both languages. Numerous Slovenians in Istria speak fluent Italian, which is also spoken by the minority group of Italians who live here. The country is subdivided into 210 municipalities that are distributed between twelve provinces for statistical purposes (these provinces are not administrative units). The coastland strip of Istria through which we will be travelling belongs to the region of Obalno-kraška (Coastal–Karst Statistical Region). In the post-war period the port of Koper (Capodistria, in Italian) was expanded to compete with Trieste, until that time the largest port in the area. The idea was to create an efficient international port and it subsequently became very important as a gateway for goods headed towards the Eastern bloc. This means that Slovenia has international trade relations throughout the world and is a transit country for goods on their way to Central Europe to this day. In the vicinity of Portorož, near to the salt flats, our cycle route takes us past a small regional airport. THE ECONOMY - FACTS AND FIGURES As early as the time when

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it was under Yugoslavia the province of Slovenia had the highest income pro-capita and a strong economic performance. After joining the EU the GDP was average compared to the

SLOVENIA IN FIGURES SURFACE AREA: 20,273 km2 INHABITANTS: 2,058,000 THE LARGEST TOWNS (IN TERMS OF POPULATION) ARE: Ljubljana: 280,000 Maribor: 95,000 Celje: 37,500 Nova Gorica: 36,700 Novo mesto: 36,600 Velenje: 34,500 Kranj: 34,000 Koper: 25,000

Bolzano

ITALIA

Belluno Trento

Vicenza Padova Rovigo Ferrara

Slovenia borders with Austria, Hungary, Croatia, and Italy

Jesenice Udine

Pordenone

Ljubljana

Gorizia

Treviso

Trieste

SL OV ENI A OBALNO KRASKA

Venezia Golfo di Venezia

Rijeka CR OA ZIA Pula

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other member states and before the financial crisis of 2008, Slovenia still had a strong growth rate with high annual results. Now, due to the ituation of its domestic banks, which have a multitude of bad loans on their books, a crisis is setting in. This is because a building boom which had lasted for years came abruptly to an end and the economy is beginning to falter. Experts assume that Slovenia will need money from the Euro rescue fund set up by ESM (or European Stability Mechanism). In 2012 the economy dropped by 2.3% and a small decline is also expected for 2014. In spite of all these problems, compared with other states in difficulty, the country is still doing well. After joining the EU, agriculture quickly lost some importance and now accounts for around just 2% of the GDP. Important industries include livestock breeding (cattle and pigs), timber and forestry (spruce and mixed woodland), and the viticulture sector, which has taken huge steps forward in the last few decades in terms of quality and now involves over 40% of the population. Many car manufacturers, including Renault, Volkswagen, PSA-Peugeot-Citroen and Kia have their vehicles manufactured and assembled in Slovenia. In recent years the annual car production in Slovenia was around 600,000. In the services sector, tourism provides a considerable number of jobs. The beach resorts on the Adriatic Sea and the ski resorts in the mountains are the major areas of tourism, which is of similar importance to the country as it is in Switzerland and Austria.

A potted history According to an ancient legend, after stealing the golden fleece Jason once invaded Slovenia with the Argonauts. He then fled, with his followers, across the Ister (or Danube) and the Sava rivers into the basin of Ljubljana, from where they sailed to the Adriatic Sea.

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250,000 BCE The first signs of human settlement from the Pal-

aeolithic Age in the area which is now Slovenia. In a cave in Loza, near to Orehek, stone tools were found which date back around 250,000 years. 45,000 BCE Objects found in Divje Babe, across the Idrija valley, date back to the Würm glaciation, when Slovenia was populated by the Neanderthalers. The most important finding is a flute made of bone, the world’s oldest musical instrument ever found. 5,000–fourth century BCE In the Early Stone Age and the Copper Age, the inhabitants already bred cattle and cultivated the fields. In the transition period from the Bronze Age to the Iron Age the Urnfield culture appeared. Fortified hill-top settlements, elaborate iron objects and weapons typical of the Hallstatt period were found in locations such as Most na So i, Va e, Rifnik, and Šentvid pri Sti ni. The inhabitants of these settlements cannot be allocated to any ethnic groups. Starting in the seventh century BCE there were disputes with the Greeks who had founded a larger colony in what is now known as Koper (Aegida, in Greek).

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Fourth and third century BCE The Celts moved into present-day Slovenia. They mixed with the locals and also founded the first “state” on Slovenian soil, the kingdom of Noricum.

AFTER THE ROMANS During the mass exodus which followed the decline of the Roman Empire, when it was divided into a Western and an Eastern Empire in the fourth century, the country was invaded by Huns, Goths, and Longobards. In the sixth century, Slavic tribes migrated here from the north-east and settled as peasants in the Drava, Sava, and Mura river valleys and in the alpine regions in the east. In the early seventh century a first Slavic kingdom was set up under the rule of Samos. Present-day Carinthia and the northern territory of Slovenia formed the Principality of Karantanija. Eighth century This period marked the beginning of Christianity in the inland, after catching on in the coastline areas as early as the third century. Ninth–thirteenth century The feudal system of the Franks became more widespread and the nation of Slovenia became to take shape. Large-scale colonisation by the Germans took place, with the support of feudal lords and prince-bishops. Counties and regions such as Kranjsko, Styria, Carinthia, and Gorizia were formed and towns began to take form during the Middle Ages. The coastline region fell under the supremacy of the Maritime Republic of Venice. UNDER THE HABSBURGS Fourteenth and fifteenth century The Hab-

sburgs took over large parts of Slovenia together with its heritage sites. The fifteenth century marked the beginning of the Ottoman invasions. Over the next two centuries, the Turks drove the Habsburgs away from the mainland and the Venetians further and further back to the coast. The many fortified

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THE ROMAN TIMES In the second century BCE the Romans founded the city of Aquileia in the bay of Trieste as a trading centre and a military springboard towards the south-east. Julius Caesar also stopped here: the Julian Alps, in fact, are named after him. The kingdom of Noricum was annexed, trade between southern, south-eastern and central Europe flourished and numerous magnificent villas, thermal towns, and temples were built along the coast.

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villages and churches in present-day Slovenia still bear witness to the constant threat of invasion. As elsewhere in Europe, peasant riots in the sixteenth and seventeenth century disrupted law and order in the country. 1550 The protestant faith started to expand. The first book to appear in the Slovenian language was a reformed Bible. Eighteenth century Austrian Empress Maria Theresia and her son Joseph II introduced general compulsory eduction and drove back the influence of the church. 1809–1813 Napoleon attempted to rearrange the territories after his victory over Austria, which led to the foundation of the Illyrian provinces. When the Treaty of Schönbrunn was signed, everything remained as it was. AFTER WORLD WAR I In 1918, the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and

Slovenes emerged from the ruins of the Habsburg Empire. In 1929 this was renamed the Kingdom of Yugoslavia. This independent state was still not able to prevent large parts of Slovenia from falling under the rule of victorious Italy in the peace treaty of Rapallo: these included the coastal region of Primor-

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GAMBLING

You may have noticed that luxury hotels and shopping centres are often located in the vicinity of glittery casinos. Permissive gambling laws led to numerous first class hotels being set up here with congress and event halls, shopping plazas, restaurants, bars and night clubs, as well as health spas and

gym and – last but not least – a casino, mostly following the American layout. In recent years, the gambling industry has given the Slovenian tourist trade a major boost. If you too would like to try your luck, remember that you will need to carry your ID with you. If an admission fee is charged, you will normally receive the equivalent value in gambling chips. Guests in the casinos include many Italians who come to Slovenia to gamble because the provisions in Italy are very restrictive and casinos are few and far between.

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ska (with Trieste and the So a valley) and Inner Carniola (or Notranjska) in the west, with Idija and Postojna. In these regions, which then belonged to their nation, the Italians pursued a radical nationalisation policy which forbid the use of the Slovenian language in public administration, public offices in general, and schools. WORLD WAR II Yugoslavia tried to remain neutral but was over-

run by the allied forces of Germany and Italy in 1941. A resistance movement was formed and in 1945 the Communist partisans led by Tito expelled the Germans and the Italians, leading to the new state of Yugoslavia, initially under Stalin, that was divided into six provinces having equal rights.

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THE NEW SLOVENIA The death of Tito in 1980 marked the beginning of the crisis of the state of Yugoslavia. The nation as a whole broke up in January 1990 and one year later the Independent and Sovereign Republic of Slovenia was declared. On May 1, 2004 it became a member of the EU and in January 2007 it adopted the Euro as its official currency.

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THE PARENZANA

The Parenzana, also abbreviated to TPC (Triest–Parenzo–Canfanaro) was a narrow-gauge railway built during the Austrian-Hungarian rule that connected thirty-three Istrian towns and villages over a distance of 128 kilometres. It now passes through the territory of three states: thirteen kilometres through Italy, thirty-two through Slovenia and seventy-eight through Croatia. When it was inaugurated in 1902, steam engines still pulled the wagons, groaning and snorting, along the winding and unusually steep rail route at an average speed of twenty-five kilometres per hour. People joked that it was possible to get out during the trip to pick figs and jump back on board. The railway did connect the hinterland of Istria with the great city of Trieste. The train route was more geared to the transportation of goods than people. Goods such as salt from the salt flats, olive oil, fruit, vegetables, the highly sought-after white stone of Istria, limestone,

wood, grain, and wine could thus be transported quickly and cheaply. After World War II the railway was taken over by Italy and closed down in 1935. Restoration works funded by the EU started already at the beginning of this century to create a cycle path passing through three countries. The sections in Slovenia and Croatia are already open for use while the Italian part poses quite a few problems due to the dense urban development which made the former route disappear, and is thus delayed. Surrounded by a charming Mediterranean landscape, the railway route passes through many well-preserved or renovated bridges, viaducts, illuminated tunnels and picturesque villages, far away from the noisy tourist spots along the coast. On the Slovenian side it is asphalted and meets the usual European standards, while in Croatia it is sometimes spread with coarse gravel, which makes it suitable for trekking bikes with larger tyres. The “road of health and friendship”, as the Parenzana cycle path is also officially named, was completed punctually in time for Croatia joining the EU in 2013. Our route takes us along some stretches of this path, which is signposted with D8, at least in Slovenia. For more information see: www.parenzana.net

Immediately after the Italianâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Slovenian border, our cycle route takes us southwards for a short distance within sight of the E751 highway. It then bends right in a westerly direction, touches Koper, then follows along the coast through Izola and goes briefly inland before reaching Piran. The route basically runs along the abandoned Parenzana railroad, which stretched from Trieste to Pore , in Croatia. After Piran, the route follows the sea until it reaches PortoroĹž, where it bends in a southeasterly direction and eventually crosses the Dragonja River and thus the border to Croatia.

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Sights along the route

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SLOVENIA – GREAT WINES FROM A SMALL WINE COUNTRY At the time of the planned economy of Tito, hardly one drop of good wine could be expected from Slovenia – the motto in that period was quantity before quality. In the present day, when quantity is no longer that important, winegrowers focus on quality. The transition from the socialist planned economy to the capitalist market economy was mastered without difficulty by Slovenia. In the tourist trade, for example, visitors are offered not only a blue sea and superb landscape but also good wines. Slovenia and its wine-growing industry were marked by a series of different factors: from its history under the rule of different states with respectively different markets but also the great contrasts in terms of landscape and climate. The tiny country of Slovenia managed to reach a level quality of wine in a very short time that only a few had believed in. The total area of vineyards comes to around 24,000 hectares, with a total annual production of one million hectolitres: 25% for red wine and 75% for white wine. Slovenia has several wine-growing areas.

Here we will limit ourselves to the coastline along the Adriatic (Primorska) and its specialities. As a part of the Slovenian coastland this area, with 1,000 wine-growers, has around 2,000 hectares of vineyards (by comparison, there are 5,300 in South Tyrol). Among wine connoisseurs the country is referred to as the land of Refošk,, whose name derives from Re (king) and fosco (dark), in other words a dark king or royal wine. Of the white wines produced here, the white grape variety Malvazija, officially Malvazija Istarska,, is the most widely grown. It has been cultivated for centuries in this region, which stretches from the peninsula of Istria up to the hilly land of Friuli, known as Collio. The Malvazija Istarska is the most widely known and valuable variety among the many varieties used for white Malvazija, also referred to as “the yellow queen”. It was supposedly brought here by the Venetians in the fourteenth century directly from the ancient Greek town of Monemvasia in the Peloponnese, and cultivated with great success.

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Eating and drinking Slovenian food is influenced by Austrian, Italian, and Hungarian cuisine. It is also influenced by the Balkans and naturally the Mediterranean. The various types of recipes are thus mixed and often give way to unusual but very tasty dishes. Along the Istrian coastline of Slovenia, the cuisine mainly consists of seafood with crustaceans and shellfish. Olive oil plays an important role and there are many top-quality varieties available locally. Garlic is also an essential ingredient. The outstanding fresh fish is often grilled. The well-known ribja juha juha, a sort of fish soup, can be found on every menu. The excellent wines, headed by the superb white wine Malvazija, Malvazija, are a fine accompaniment. The Pršut ham, which is tried by the cold Refošk, Bora wind, goes well with the local red wines, such as Refošk while the well-known plum brandy Slivovka washes everything down well. Finally, the salt which is harvested by hand in the nearby salt flats of Piran, should not be overlooked. A good selection of all these products can be found in Portorož: www.productpiran.com

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ŠKOFIJE 2 (population: 2,319) lies on the Italian border and is a district of the larger municipality of Koper. Like many border towns, Škofije also has a very varied history, since it was ruled by Austria, Italy, and Yugoslavia. The name comes from the Slovenian Škof (literally, “bishop”) as the town was once controlled by the bishop. The border crossing is a smooth procedure and almost without noticing we suddenly find ourselves in Slovenia.

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Koper Koper (population: 25,000) is Slovenia’s only port on its 46.6-kilometre stretch of coastline along the Adriatic. It was initially a small settlement on an island in the Gulf of Trieste. In Ancient Greece, it was known as Aegida while the Romans named it Caprea, which meant “place of goats”. In honour of the Byzantine Emperor Justinian II (seventh century), it was then renamed Justinopolis. In 1035 it received its town charter and in 1278 it became part of the Venetian Republic. It became the administrative centre of Istria under the Venetians, who gave it the Latin name of Caput Histriae (literally, “the capital of Istria”), hence its present Italian name of Capodistria. According to a census in 1900, Koper was almost exclusively inhabited by Italians, with Slovenians totalling just 6%. When the borders were redrawn in 1945–1954 most Italians either fled or were driven out. The Slovenian inhabitants in Koper now come to 78%. The 3

, May: April: Koper Das Spargelfest – end of May: findet a trade Ende fair Apriland bismarket AnfangofMai thezucoastline Ehren des area königlichen Gemüses statt, inka der Ortschaft Fossalon besonders products takes place in the das Bonifi arena. gut gedeiht Marezige (inund the hinterland eine lange of Tradition Koper) hat. – end Auf ofden May:Ständen at the Refošk und in wine den Restaurants festival, all events drehen aresich centred die Gerichte around um this den darkSpargel. wine made with , autochtonous Juni: am ersten grapes. Sonntag im Juni zieht die Kirchengemeinde in einer , August: beflaggten Koper Bootsprozession and surrounding zur Insel area Barbana, – the Koperground um ein altes Festival Gelübde aus dem offers a wealth Mittelalter of different einzulösen, events alsfor „Maria, twentydie days, Königin withdes young Meeres music, und der Lagune“ alternative art, Grado international vor der fiPestseuche lm presentations, schützte. literature, and other performances: a true laboratory of ideas! For information contact the Association of the Friends of Moderate Progress and the MKC Koper Youth and Culture Centre or www.dodogovor.org Koper – from the end of July to the beginning of August: the JEFF Festival (Jazz Ethno Funky Festival) lasts several days with an interesting programme of concerts. Tel. (0)56634220, www.jeff.si

FROM TRIESTE TO PORTOROŽ

EVENTS

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city was an episcopal seat as early as the eighth century and came under the diocese of Trieste. When it was incorporated into Yugoslavia the diocese of Koper became independent once more. The city lies directly south of the Italian port of Trieste along the Adriatic, just a few kilometres away from the Italian border. At first glance Koper seems like a faceless industrial city, at the second we discover the historical city centre which is totally worth seeing, bustling with shops and tourists. The square, much of which is a pedestrian-only area, is named Titov trg after its founder and long-term dictator of the former Yugoslavia. There was once a square with the same name in every town and city but this is now an exotic exception. Every Saturday morning it is the venue for a bustling market where fruit and vegetables are also sold. Like in a picture book, the faĂ§ades overlooking the square with their frescoes, epigraphs, archways and friezes tell the story of changing worldly and spiritual powers and authorities. These include the crenellated Palazzo Pretorio, the Foresteria, once used as a hotel for councillors, the Armeria (arsenal) and the cathedral with its campanile. The efficient trading port and large marina for leisure and sports boats contribute hugely to the trading activities in the historical city centre. Outside the city centre there are residential areas and many hotel areas. Koper is an important port and the gateway to the sea across which imports from around the globe reach Slovenia. Many large cruise ships moor here on their route through the Mediterranean, allowing passengers to visit the town centre, the nearby town of Izola and hinterland locations such as Padna and Nova. Many passengers also hire bikes for a trip along the Parenzana, the former abandoned railway now made into a cycle path.

TOURIST OFFICE 3 Titov trg, 6000 Koper Tel. (+386) 56646403 - www.koper.si

VINAKOPER The Vinakoper winery is a giant in every way. With

Vinakoper d.o.o., 1 Šmarska cesta, Koper, tel. (0)56630100, www.vinakoper.si

TOMOS 4 Moped fans will presumably be familiar with Tomos, as a manufacturer of scooters. The name Tomos is an abbreviation of Tovarna Motornih Vozil, literally “factory for motor vehicles”. In the past Citroën cars were also assembled here under licence, while the company now focuses on the production of motor-assisted bicycles and mopeds and is also an important supplier for the motorcycle production of BMW. The Koper factory still produces a modern-day version of the sister model of the Austrian Puch Maxi, which means nostalgia fans get their money’s worth here. For more information see www.tomos.si

FROM TRIESTE TO PORTOROŽ

vineyards covering a total of 590 hectares and an annual production of four million bottles, it is one of the absolute heavyweights of the Slovenian wine industry. Its products naturally include Istrian flagship wines, such as the deep-red Refošk and the white Malvazija,, but also rarities such as the local Cipro and the sparkling wines produced according to the classic French Champenoise method. A visit to the fine tasting halls and the impressive, centuries-old cellar – which before 1947 was state-owned – is a unique experience for all wine lovers.

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Izola Izola (population: 16,000) lies on the coast between Koper and Piran. Its name comes from the Italian word for island (isola): the historical city centre actually includes the former island, that was connected with the mainland many centuries ago by a stone bridge. In the thirteenth century Izola was an independent town republic, which led to military conflicts with the rival neighbouring towns of Koper and Piran. Around 1500 the Venetian map maker Pietro Coppo (1470– 1555) came to Izola and worked here. An engraved stone reproduction of his map of Istria can be seen in the Pietro Coppo park in the town centre. In 1775, during the Venetian dominion, a wealthy nobleman, Pasquale Besenghi degli Ughi, had the stately Palazzo Besenghi built, which still houses an impressive library with valuable volumes and manuscripts. After the Venetian Republic came to an end in 1797 and a brief interlude during French rule, the Habsburgs came to power and as part of the Crown land along the coast, Izola belonged to the Austrian-Hungarian Empire. The city walls were torn down in the early nineteenth century and the rubble was used 5

TOURIST OFFICE Son no nabrežje 4 6310 Izola-Isola - tel. (+386) 56401050 - www.izola.si

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to fill the sea between the island and the mainland. At that time, Chiaro Vascotto, a clergyman from the order of the Minorites, discovered a mineral spring: the thermal spa of Saint Peter was built and rich bathers arrived, marking the start of tourism in Izola. Shortly after the turn of the century, a station along the Parenzana railway that connected Trieste with Porecˇ was built here. At that time the town was inhabited almost exclusively by Italians. In 1918, after World War I, Izola became part of Italy, together with most of the coastland; after World War II it fell to the Free Territory of Trieste in 1947 and when this was dissolved, in 1954, it became part of the Yugoslavian Province of Slovenia. In the years that followed, many of the Italian inhabitants left the city. The Italian–Venetian architecture of the historical town centre is reminiscent of its very eventful history. The maritime and fishing tradition is still reflected in the tourist services and cuisine offered by Izola, whose tallest building is in fact not the church tower but the chimney of the fish fabric which was abandoned many years ago and stands sixty-four metres high above the modern port. The marina is not only an important port for yachts, with 700 moorings for sports boats measuring up to fifty metres, but also a well-known holiday resort with hotels, tennis courts, a swimming pool, and casino.

The maritime republics of Genoa and Venice were at war, when the fleet of Genoa prepared to attack the town of Izola, which was allied with the Venetians, on October 23, 1380. Somewhat bewildered, the inhabitants gathered in prayer in the church of San Mauro, imploring their patron saint for help. Suddenly, a thick fog descended upon them and from the church roof a white dove opened its wings and flew towards the enemy ships. The Genoans followed the dove in the

belief it would guide them towards dry land. The cunning bird, however, led the ship far out into the sea and when it flew back towards land, it carried an olive twig in its beak as a sign of the averted danger and peace. Since then, the coat of arms and the flag of Izola have borne the image of a dove carrying the olive twig.

FROM TRIESTE TO PORTOROŽ

THE LEGEND BEHIND THE COAT OF ARMS

Sights worth seeing PARENZANA MUSEUM The museum illustrates the history of the

Parenzana narrow-gauge railway that also stopped in Izola on the route between Trieste and Pore . A particular attraction of this museum is Josip Miheli ’s model railway collection, one of the most extensive and interesting of its kind. 3 Ulica Alma Vivoda, Izola tel. (0)5641050; closed Mondays–Tuesdays.

FROM TRIESTE TO PORTOROŽ

MODEL SHIP MUSEUM The Parenzana museum building also

houses a collection of model ships, thus telling the history of one of the most important trades of Izola, where the shipbuilding tradition dates back to the fifteenth century. The models on display include typical ships and fishing boats used in the Adriatic Sea, documents and drawings. tel. (0)416 13299

EVENTS , Beginning of June: the annual film festival known as Kino Otok – Isola Cinema lasts for one week and presents films from Africa, Asia, Latin America, East Europe, and neighbouring countries. , During a weekend in mid-June: a festival for all the senses and gourmets ceebrates olive trees, wine and fish.

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THE CHURCH OF SAN MAURO Of the seven

Izola is also home to the Mehano company, a renowned Slovenian producer of model railways and toys. Like many other big names in the sector, it is facing economic difficulties. In addition to highly prized models which include high-speed trains such as the Thalys, the TGV, the AVE, the Euromed and many north American locomotives, wagons and trams, the brand has also become well-known among German customers due to the reasonably priced start sets which were sold at Christmas through ALDI stores. Info: www.mehano.si

WHO WAS SERGEJ MAŠERA? Sergej Mašera (1912–1941), born in Gorizia, was an artillery officer in the Royal Yugoslavian navy. When the Kingdom of Yugoslavia was overrun by Germany and Italy during World War II, he was in military service on the destroyer ship Zagreb. The fleet was looking for protection in the bay of Kotor, on the

Dalmatian coast. The crew abandoned the ship leaving only Sergej Mašera on board: he sank the Zagreb so it would not fall into enemy hands and was then acclaimed a national hero for his sacrifice. The museum is named after him.

FROM TRIESTE TO PORTOROŽ

churches in Izola, the most prominent is the church of San Mauro, which stands on a hill. Originally from the fourteenth century, it was subsequently rebuilt several times and underwent its most drastic changes in the Baroque period, with frescoes and many side altars. The campanile stands thirty metres high: steps lead up to the top offering a beautiful view. Saint Maurus was from Pore and was martyred at the end of the third century. His Latin name literally means “native of Mauritania”. He is highly respected in Istria and many churches take his name. He was buried in Pore , where he is depicted, on sixth-century mosaics in the apse of the Euphrasian basilica, with a martyr’s crown.

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Piran Piran (population: 4,100) lies on the Slovenian riviera on the southernmost opening into the Gulf of Trieste, around twenty kilometres west of Koper and seven kilometres from Izola. The historical city centre is laid out on a rock which juts out into the sea and continues inland to form a hill. Thanks to its particular position, the homogeneous cityscape of the city centre, which is free of traffic, and the Mediterranean atmosphere with its narrow alleyways and enchanting esplanade, Piran is probably the most beautiful place along the Slovenian coastline. The first settlements in Piran date back a long way: when the Greeks settled on the peninsula there was already a beacon which guided ships on their way to the nearby settlement of Aegida, now known as Koper; the name of this town probably derives from the Greek word Pyr, which means fire. Piran was first mentioned in the seventh century as a Byzantine settlement. During the Venetian expansion, in the second half of the thirteenth century, it then fell under the supremacy of the Republic of Venice like Koper and Izola.

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Piran developed into an important interport for oil, cereals, wood, wine and above all salt from the Se ovlje salt flats. When the Venetian Republic came to an end, after a brief period under French rule from 1805â&#x20AC;&#x201C;1813, Piran was then incorporated into the Habsburg Empire. During this time, mainly due to the revival of the salt production in Se ovlje as well as the building of new roads and the railway, the town flourished. When the Treaty of Rapallo was signed in 1920, Istria and thus also Piran became part of Italy. A strict policy of Italianisation followed and it was forbidden to speak Slovenian in public. After World War II Italy and Yugoslavia battled over the region around Trieste with the result that the area was divided into two zones under the United Nations administration. Piran belonged to the south zone B, which officially became part of Yugoslavia after the London conference held in 1954. Today Piran is part of Slovenia and lies on the border with Croatia. Although hardly noticeable for tourists, the exact boundary line, above all in the bay of Piran along the Dragonja River, is still in dispute between the two states.

Monuments and historical sites 1 Sergej Mašera maritime museum 2 Piran Aquarium 3 The Museum of Underwater Activities

Tourist office

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Portorož

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Sights worth seeing On the densely built-up peninsula, the remains of the city walls and seven fine, well-preserved city gates bear witness of turbulent times. Various palazzi, eight churches, art galleries, museums, an aquarium, a host of pubs, cafés, and shops are huddled together in a very small space. The old city square, Prvomajski trg, once the heart of Piran, is full of atmosphere while the city centre is now defined by the large oval-shaped Tartini square (Tartinijev trg) near to the port. When there was no more space left in the small port for the fishing boats, a new, bigger port was built and the old one was filled up and converted into this extensive city square. It takes its name from the famous violinist and composer Giuseppe Tartini (1692– 1770), who was born in Piran but was mainly active in Italy (Padua). The monument in the square was sculpted in 1896 by the Venetian Antonio dal Zotto. Tartini’s birth house is located on the east side of the square: a monumental plaque and the memorial room on the first floor – displaying one of his violins, a valuable Amati model – were set up in memory of this great violinist and music theorist (an entrance fee is charged).

TOURIST OFFICE 2 Tartinijev trg, 6330 Piran - tel. (+386) 56734440 - www.portoroz.si

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Other sights can be found just round the corner: the church dedicated to Saint George occupies a dominating position a little higher up on a fortified terrace. The tall clock and bell tower is reminiscent of the Venetian campanile of Saint Mark and testifies the long dominion and strong influence of the Republic of Venice. The tower is open to visitors during the summer months; from the top there is a breath-taking view which reaches as far as the Alps on a clear day. On the spire there is the statue of an angel that also acts as a wind vane for the inhabitants. The exhibition in the museum dedicated to the sea allows visitors to dive into the deep sea and discover the fascinating world of mussels (15, Tartinijev trg). In the east, one of the most stunning views over the town and peninsula can be enjoyed from the old crenellated city walls. The entrance ticket costs around 2.5 Euro. To the far western side of the city, on the highest point of the peninsula, stands the old, crenellated lighthouse with its typically Venetian Gothic windows. In the south of the peninsula, the boulevard along the beach is lined with many shops, cafĂŠs, and restaurants which entice visitors to relax and indulge in culinary treats.

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SERGEJ MAŠERA MARITIME MUSEUM 1 The museum is housed

in Palazzo Gabrielli, a magnificent neoclassical building directly overlooking the port. Since its foundation in 1954 the museum has dealt with the history of seafaring in the Adriatic. On display are archaeological collections on the topic of seafaring, sea routes, trading from pre-history to the early Modern period and treasures from the Early and the Settlement Age. The ethnological department illustrates with old photographs, models, and original tools how salt was harvested in the nearby salt flats. The department dedicated to the fishing industry and fish processing displays documents, model ships, tools,

, April: In Das mid-April Spargelfest the Istrski findet Maraton Ende April takes bis Anfang place between Mai zu Ehren Piran, des Izola königlichen and Koper along Gemüses statt, dasroute in derwhich Ortschaft besonders a very scenic partlyFossalon runs along the gut gedeiht lange Tradition hat. Auf surfaces, den Ständen und in beach. Due und to itseine steep climbs and cobbled the path is den Restaurants drehenFor sich die Gerichte umwww.istrski-maraton.si den Spargel. rather demanding. more details see , At Juni: theam endersten of April Sonntag in Padna, im, Juni die Kirchengemeinde in einer in thezieht hinterland of Piran, a two-day beflaggten Bootsprozession Insel Barbana, um ein altes of Gelübde festival takes place in the saltzur flats of Se ovlje, with a series aus dem Mittelalter „Maria, die Königin desand Meeres interesting collateraleinzulösen, events. Theals focus is naturally on salt otherund der Lagune“ Grado vorasder Pestseuche schützte. local specialities such olive oil and chards. , May: a festival dedicated to the top-quality local olive oil and the chards typically grown in Padna takes place in early May in Padna, in the hinterland of Piran. Strunjan – end of May: artichoke festival. , June: Piran – end of June: the dance festival takes place in the Tartini square and features classic, modern, oriental, hip-hop, jazz and show-dance performances. , July: Piran – from mid-July to the beginning of August: the Piran music evenings offer a fine selection of chamber music concerts in the cloister of the Franciscan monastery, always on Fridays. Nova vas – mid-July: the wine and garlic festival is centred around local cuisine. , September: Piran and surrounding area – beginning of September: the Ex-Tempore art event with a display of paintings and ceramics from around the world is held between Tartini square, the Franciscan monastery and the Monfort salt flats. , November: Strunjan – beginning of November: this festival, dedicated to the soft and sweet-tasting persimmon, marks the end of the annual culinary events in Slovenia.

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and equipment. The main collections dedicated to history and art include the famous Grube model ships as well as numerous models of other types of vessel, from galleys to large sailing ships, instruments used on board, uniforms, seafaring equipment, photographs, fine figureheads and much more. The museum also houses collections located in other buildings, for example in the Tonas farmhouse in Sveti Peter, an old stone buinding with an oil press and farming equipment, or the extensive on-site museum of the salt flats in Se ovlje. 3 Cankarjevo nabrežje, Piran tel. (0)56710040 - www.pomorskimuzej.si

PIRAN AQUARIUM 2 The aquarium directly overlooks the port in

the stately Villa Piranesi. It was founded in 1964 and features twenty-eight tanks, mostly with artificial lighting, containing a very wide variety of sea creatures. This underwater world is bustling with over 200 species including octopus, bream, bass, the rare sea bass, spiny dogfish, mullet, and others. In addition there is a number of different types of seaweed, such as sargassum seaweed, and also lobsters, spider crabs, brittle stars, small sea urchins, and various species of sponge. 4 Kidri evo nabrežje, Piran tel. (0)56732572 - www.aquariumpiran.com

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THE MUSEUM OF UNDERWATER ACTIVITIES 3 This rather long-

winded name stands for an exhibition on the history of diving from the beginnings to the present day, with particular focus on the time of the Austrian-Hungarian Empire, the Kingdom of Yugoslavia, the Kingdom of Italy, the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia, and present-day Slovenia. It has always been interesting to learn what mysterious creatures and treasures are hidden in the deep abyss and this museum in Piran offers the chance to take a dive into the deep sea world. The exhibition includes diving helmets, pumps, old diving suits, various submarine models, navy uniforms, and personal objects, all telling the eventful history of the underwater activities. The objects on display document the techniques of our ancestors and also the dangers and difficulties connected with diving. Open every day in the summer from 10.30am–8.00pm. 24 Župan i eva, Piran tel. (0)41685379 - www.muzejpodvodnihdejavnosti.si

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SALT FLATS MUSEUM AND NATURE RESERVE OF SE OVLJE

Along the short strip of coastline belonging to Slovenia there are now only a few wetlands, almost all of which are on the river mouths of the Istrian short stretches of water. In the past, these wetlands were converted into salt flats, such as those in Strunjan and Se ovlje; Se ovlje covers 650 hectares and is one of the most important sites for nesting and migratory birds: to date, 288 bird species have been registered. The salt flats lie directly on the Croatian border, in the bay of Piran. The museum is also located within this nature reserve: housed in a renovated saltwork building, it enables visitors to take a look at the daily lives of the salters and the old methods used for obtaining salt through the evaporation of the sea water in flat basins, a technique which dates back to ancient times. The hard-working salters of Piran spread the townâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s reputation throughout the world (according to an old local saying, Piran xe fato de sal, Piran was made from salt). In addition to the fishing industry and other trades, the salt industry allowed the town to prosper and flourish. A list of shops selling small linen bags filled with local salt can be found at: www.soline.si/en/shop

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In 2013, a modern, fully-equipped spa centre named Thalasso Spa Lepa Vida was built in the Se ovlje area. Several basins allow bathing in seawater under the sun, Kneipp treatments, and mud packs. Lepa Vida Thalasso Spa, 115 Se a, Portorož, tel. (0)56721360, www.thalasso-lepavida.si Pomorski muzej Sergej Mašera 3 Cankarjevo nabrežje, Piran - www.pommuz-pi.si tel. (0)56710040; open only in summer, every day except Mondays Salt fields nature park of Se ovlje: Krajinski park Se oveljske soline Managed by Soline Pridelava soli d.o.o. 115 Se a, Portorož - tel. (0)56721330 - www.kpss.si

THE STRUNJAN NATURE RESERVE 7 This nature reserve covers a

large part of the Strunjan peninsula and is a typical example of a flysch landscape with cliffs along the coast. Although the territory is densely populated, its rural character is still preserved thanks to scattered settlements, stone farmhouses, and terraced dry stone walls. The lagoons and salt flats and the species that live in these respective habitats receive particular protection. Several kilometres of the untouched cliff with its steep face and submersed parts on the northern side of the peninsula were declared a nature reserve, together with a two hundred-metre wide strip of coastline. Admission is free and bicycles can be parked at the entrance. Information: Javni zavod Krajinski park Strunjan, 10 Pacug, Portorož tel. (0)56748191, (0)41715502, www.parkstrunjan.si

Monuments and historical sites 1 Forma Viva

Tourist office

PortoroĹ˝

Trieste

Hotels 2 Hotel Lucija 3 Hotel Roza 4 Grand Hotel Metropol

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Portorož Portorož (from the Italian porto and rose,, and from the Slovenian roža,, in other words “the port of the roses”) falls within the community of Piran, and includes the extended tourist area which runs south-east along the sea. The cityscape is made up of large hotel complexes, while the coastal road is lined with cafés, restaurants, and shops and is distinguished by a casino and marina.

tre which offers an extensive view over the bay of Portorož. Located on the range of hills surrounding the peninsula of Se a, it has been promoted and supported by several international art meetings that have taken place regularly in different places in Slovenia since 1961. Stone sculptures are made in Portorož while wood sculptures are made in Kostanjevica na Krki. The idea of creating a sculpture park dates back to 1951 and was proposed during a Sculpture Symposium held in Austria in 1951 at Sankt Margarethen, in Burgenland. Forma Viva is one of the few symposia that can look back on a tradition that is still going strong after fifty years. The various symposia, which enjoy up to 30,000 enthusiastic visitors, have given life to around 300 sculptures already. The stone sculptures are made from a hard, durable, and lightweight limestone known as Istrian karst marble. This was once exported in large quantities for the construction work in Venice. Admission to the extensive open-air gallery is free.

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FORMA VIVA 1 Forma Viva is a tree-lined outdoor exhibition cen-

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FONDA FISH FARM In the lagoon by the salt flats there is a fish

farm specialised in the breeding and sale of sea bass. This is the undisputed number one among seawater fish and no menu would be complete without it. The sea bass (loup de mer or bar in French, branzino or spigola in Italian) has a very finetasting, white, firm flesh. It is bred in the seawater in floating cages. A visit to the breeding ground is followed by a tasting session for a unique experience. Guided tours must be booked in advance (in good weather conditions only). For information, contact Fonda.si d.o.o., 117 Liminjanska cesta, PortoroĹž, tel. (0)51605605 or (0)56779044, www.fonda.si

EVENTS , May: early May: the international Internautica boat show announces the sailing season. Mid-May: the flamboyantly colourful rose and flower festival sets the summer mood. , October: in the first days of October: Golden Drum Drum, an international advertising festival that lures a lot of people from around the world.

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Croatia Like the neighbouring Slovenia, Croatia is a young state whose fight for independence following the collapse of Yugoslavia had its share of difficulties. Travellers instantly notice big differences in the landscape and the urban areas of the country, which is spread out over three geographical and ethnographic zones: the Mediterranean coastal zone, the Dinaric mountain belt and, in the north, the plains and low mountain range characteristic of central Europe. The southernmost part of the country – the stripe of coastline with Dubrovnik – is separated from the rest of the national territory by the narrow access to the sea of Bosnia and Herzegovina, and is thus a sort of enclave. Depending on one’s viewpoint Croatia can be considered part of south-eastern Europe, East-Central Europe or the Mediterranean. For many North Europeans who come here in the summer, Croatia is the incarnation of magnificent Mediterranean and romantic islands. They connect it with the northern Adriatic coastline: over one thousand islands, rocky and pebbly beaches, a handful of sandy beaches, crystal clear water, picturesque villages, a typical South European landscape, historical little towns, buildings dating back thousands of years

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and valuable monuments entice more and more holiday-makers to Croatia all year round. Most of the beaches can expect to obtain the “blue flag”, which guarantees the quality of the bathing water, efficient environmental management, and tested safety standards. The most popular region is the Istrian peninsula, in northern Croatia. Places not included on our route are the island of Rab in the Kvarner Bay, the islands of Cres, Lošinj and Krk which lie off the coast, and the long strip of the Dalmatian coastline, starting from the island of Pag with the famous party beach of Zr e. In the far south lies the city of Dubrovnik, one of the best loved destinations in the country and a World Heritage Site. Croatia is divided into twenty administrative districts, known as županije. The word županije derives from the Croatian župa which originally defined a group of related people who settled down in the same place. The leader of a župa was referred to as župan.. In the Republic of Croatia, the terms županija and župa are still used in the same way. Our route takes us through the county of Istria, or Istarska županija,, which has a surface area of 2,813 square kilometres and a population of 208,000.

The economy – facts and figures Before the Croatian war in 1991, with respect to Yugoslavia as a whole, Croatia had the second highest GDP and also ranked

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CROATIA IN FIGURES SURFACE AREA: 56,500 km2 Bolzano POPULATION: 4,285,000 ITALIA Jesenice Belluno THE LARGEST TOWNS Udine Ljubljana Trento Pordenone (IN TERMS OF POPULATION) ARE: Gorizia S L OV ENI A Zagreb: 790,000 Treviso Trieste Vicenza Split: 178,100 Padova Rijeka: 128,600 Venezia ISTRIA Rijeka Osijek: 108,000 Golfo di Rovigo CR OA ZI A Venezia Zadar: 75,100 Ferrara Pula Velika Gorica: 63,500 Slavonski Brod: 59,140 Pula: 57,460 Croatia borders with Slovenia, Hungary, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Montenegro, and Serbia.

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in second place in terms of GDP per capita. Following the War of Independence, industrial production in 1991 dropped by 42.5%. From 1993 there was an upturn in the economy and until 1996 significant increases in productivity were once more recorded in most industrial sectors. 7.2% of the income (which involved around 2.7% of the population) was achieved in the agricultural sector in 2007. The main crops include sugar beet, potatoes, wheat, and corn; vines and fruit trees are grown in more favourable climatic areas and tobacco and citrus fruits are grown in southern Dalmatia. The 2008 economic crisis severely hit Croatia, where the economy in 2012 recorded zero growth for the fourth year in a row and according to experts, the GDP dropped by 0.5% in 2013. As a Member State of the EU, Croatia can expect a procedure to be initiated due to its “excessive budget deficit” which is forecast to account for 4–4.5% of the GDP in 2013 and 2014 and the country’s credit rating on the whole has been greatly lowered. For many Croatians, joining the EU has been a disillusion. There is not even a glimpse of recovery for the economy which is not only stagnating but regressing. According to experts the public administration is excessively large and inefficient, and has spent well over its income for many years. In addition to this, corruption, legal

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uncertainty, and very rigid labour laws undermine productivity and scare off investors. As part of an upward trend in Europe that is slowly becoming visible, however, Croatia’s future no longer looks so gloomy. The forecasts of the German–Croatian Chamber of Industry and Commerce predict a slight growth in 2014 of 0.5%, that should rise even more in 2015 to 1.2%, which means the figures will be “positive” once again. According to the last census, 89.6% of the population declared to be Croatian, 4.5% Serbian while all other ethnic groups came to under 0.5%. The percentage of Serbians living here was still 12.1% in 1991 but many either fled or were driven away during the formation of the state and due to ethnic tensions. The official language in Croatia is standard Croatian, while Croatian or rather Serbo-Croatian (a term now hardly used, for political reasons) is understood and spoken throughout most of the country. The Croatian and Bosnian languages use the Latin alphabet while the Serbian mainly uses the Cyrillic alphabet. The coastline area through which our route takes us is officially bilingual, with the place names given in both the local language and Italian.

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For detailed information, see the section on Istria. The history of Croatia was determined by its position on the border between the East and the West, at a crossroad between different cultures and religions. First century BCE The area which is now Croatia was colonised by the Illyrians, the Celts, and the Greeks. Second century BCE The Romans came into power and presentday Croatia was incorporated into the Province of Illyria. It was subsequently divided into Pannonia on the mainland and the coastal region of Dalmatia. Seventh century Slavs migrated here from the north-east and founded principalities. Tenth century Under King Tomislav, the kingdom encompassed both the continental part and the coastal region of Croatia. Twelfthâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;sixteenth century Croatia and Hungary formed a community of states. In 1409, Venice acquired the coastal region of Dalmatia for 100,000 ducats from Ladislav Napuljski and ruled there until 1797. Fifteenth century The Turks invaded the country. Sixteenthâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;eighteenth century The Habsburgs ruled over most parts of Croatia except for the coastal region, that belonged to Venice.

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A potted history

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Nineteenth century After the decline of the Venetian Republic,

the whole of Croatia fell under the rule of the Austrian-Hungarian Empire. 1918 World War I came to an end and the Austrian-Hungarian Empire collapsed, giving rise to the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes, while Istria, Rijeka and Zadar came under Italian rule. 1941 During World War II Croatia was divided. After the war, under Marshal Tito, it became one of the six provinces forming communist Yugoslavia. 1990 Following democratic elections Croatia separated from Yugoslavia and declared its independence and sovereignty, which led to armed conflicts with the Yugoslav People’s Army, mostly formed by Serbians. 1992 Croatia became a full member of the United Nations. 1995 The war ended in almost the entire Croatian territory. 1998 Croatia regained sovereignty over its entire territory and the areas previously under Serb control were peacefully incorporated. 2013 Croatia became a member of the European Union.

Sights along the route

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Immediately after the Slovenian–Croatian border our cycle route takes us south, through the inland, until we reach the little town of Buje, then on to Brtonigla and the Novigrad bay, by-passing the section of coastline around Umag. From Novigrad our route then takes us slightly uphill and to the east, across a bay near Antenal, then up towards Nova Vas and in a semi-circle in a south-westerly direction towards Pore , our final destination. KAŠTEL This small village on a hilltop overlooking the valley of the Dragonja River was already a settlement in prehistoric times. Excavations on the slopes clearly prove that a fortified castle once stood here – hence the name – which was of strategic importance in view of its position. The Italian name (Castelvenere) presumably derives from a Roman temple dedicated to the pagan goddess Venus.

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From Portorož to Porecˇ BUJE 1 (population: 3.250) is a small hilltop town in northern

ETNOGRAFSKA ZBIRKA, ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM BUJE 4 Trg slobode, tel. (+385) 52 772023 Summer opening times: Mondays– Saturdays, 10.00am–1.00pm and 5.00–8.00pm In the museum, a building along the city walls at the so-called “second

gate”, there is a typical living room of an old Istrian house. The kitchen, bedroom, living room with a loom, as well as other rooms with farming equipment are laid out over four floors to give an idea of how people used to live on the land.

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Istria, in the region of Bujština. It is surrounded by a great number of vineyards and other crops and stands 222 metres above sea level. In Roman times it was called Bullea; the road which connects the northern part of the town with the hill is still called Via Flavia, in memory of the ancient Roman road. Due to its dominating position Buje was known as “the sentinel of Istria”. It is today renowned for its top-quality olive oil and wines. The town centre and the square dedicated to Saint Servolus is the oldest part. Next to the church is the campanile with a height of forty-eight metres, which offers a mag-

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nificent view from the top reaching as far as four countries on a clear day: Slovenia, Italy, Austria, and naturally Croatia. The horizon in the north shows the Italian and Austrian Alps while towards the east it is possible to see the highest mountain of Istria, the U ka (1,401 metres). With the aid of a telescope you can even make out the lagoon city of Venice far away to the west, while the Adriatic and the towns of Novigrad, Tar, Brtonigla, Momjan and many others are all lined up for display.

TOURIST OFFICE 1 Svibnja 2, 52460 Buje - tel. (+385) 52773353 - www.coloursofistria.com

, March–April: between the end of March and the beginning of April restaurants and pubs welcome visitors for the annual Asparagus Festival,, where the thin, tender shoots of the wild green asparagus are the centre of attention: in classic preparations such as omelettes or soups, with pasta or risotto, and also as side dish with meat and fish. , May: Buje – May 24: the Festa di San Servolo Servolo, dedicated to Buje’s patron saint, houses a painting festival held along the alleyways of the town for both professional artists and enthusiasts. , July: end of July: the Istrian Gourmet Festival is held in Umag parallel to an important tennis tournament, the ATP Vegeta Croatia Open. On this occasion the best restaurants, together with wine dealers and olive growers, offer Istrian specialities and local delicacies. The Istrian association of winegrowers organises a series of collateral events centred around viticulture. For further information contact (+385) 52741363, info@istria-umag.com, http://www.coloursofistria.com/en/events/ food-and-wine/istria-gourmet-festival , September: third week of September: a large wine festival is held in Buje; the Ethnographic Museum holds an art exhibition with multimedia performances and installations. , Mid-October–end of November: Plaice Festival in Novigrad, Buje, Brtonigla and Umag. For over one month, all restaurants in northwestern Croatia focus their creativity on plaice. This fish, which lives in the sand of the shallow coastal waters along the Adriatic and is much prized thanks to its firm, white and delicate flesh, is prepared and offered in a variety of ways by the local chefs. For further information call (+385) 52741363.

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The lion of Saint Mark (the symbol of Venice) which decorates the church steeple can also be noticed on an old former school building and on a flagpole stand, clutching a bible in its paws as a sign of the peaceful takeover of the town by the Venetians. Until the 1950s the town inhabitants were mostly Italians, who now number around 2,000. BRTONIGLA 2 The area surrounding the small town of Brtonigla

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(founded in 1630) is known for its olive oil and wine, thanks to which it has now become one of the selected few in the Italian association of important wine-producing towns referred to as “Città del vino”. As its slogan, the town opted for “A small town with great things to discover”, because in addition to the wine there is so much to do, including a visit to folk festivals, karst caves and the typical peasants’ houses made in natural stone, the chance to go hunting, or even pick mushrooms and wild

EVENTS , August: August 16: Brtonigla celebrates its patron saint with a festival which falls within the week of the Assumption Day, and includes a crafts market, ox-on-the-spit, events for children, a cycle race, good food and drink along the stalls and all local restaurants as well as music and entertainment. For further information call (+385) 52774307 or contact info@istria-brtonigla.com

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THE MARBLE CAVES NEAR BRTONIGLA known as Spilja Mramornica, in which numerous stalactites of different colours and stalagmites reaching as high as thirteen metres have a very particular appeal. Inside the cave there are also a few examples of a particular species of bat, the Myotis. For all nature lovers and cave enthusiasts the Mramornica cave provides a welcome change and a pleasant chance to cool down away from the summer heat.

asparagus. It is also the seat of the Academy of Local Democracy of the European Council (see https://wcd.coe.int). The largest folk festival in Istria takes place here on August 16 every year and is named after the patron saint of Buje, Saint Rochus. This small town is just a few kilometres away from the coast, although it is a far cry from the hustle and bustle of the holiday-makers. The farther one goes into the unknown hinterland in the north of Istria, the more lonely it seems. The gentle green hills are reminiscent of the landscape in central Italy. Cypress trees create a frame around peasant houses featuring different stone colours and farmers tend to their olive trees, vineyards and crops of cereals and vegetables on carefully arranged terraced fields. Brtonigla is also a wine-growing centre, where competent wine-growers produce top-quality wines such as Malvasija, Muskat, Merlot and Cabernet Souvignon and welcome visitors. For further information and a list of wine-growers consult www.coloursofistria.com/en/destinations/map-istria/winemakers

TOURIST OFFICE 2 Mlinska, 52474 Brtonigla - tel. (+385) 52774307 - www.coloursofistria.com

F R O M P O R T O R O Ž T O P O R E Cˇ

www.agroturizamsterle.hr 20 Štancija Druškovic´; tel. (+385)52774313, 52774276, mobile (+385) 99 25 02 958 Open daily 10.00am–6.00pm, organised tours (around 30 minutes) by registration, admission fee 50 HRK. In the vicinity of Brtonigla, right next to the property of Štancija Druškovic´, you’ll see the entrance to the largest karst cave of Istria,

NOVIGRAD 3 The small picturesque fishing town of Novigrad, with a population of 4,350, lies on a peninsula in a secluded bay in the Mirna River delta. This favourable settlement site was already inhabited in ancient times and the Romans built their summer villas here, which were later expanded to form a fortified castrum.. At that time this small town was called Neapolis (from the Greek meaning “new town”). As early as the sixth cen-

TOURIST OFFICE 29a Mandracˇ, 52466 Novigrad tel. (+385)52757075 - www.novigrad-cittanova.hr

F R O M P O R T O R O Ž T O P O R E Cˇ

EVENTS , Beginning of June: at the big Gnam-Gnam Festival held in the old fishing port of Novigrad, the scallop steals the show and is served with a typical “alla busara” sauce made with garlic, parsley, and olive oil and doused with the earthy, straw-yellow Malvasija or the dark red Terrano served on draught. On the tables set out along the walls of the port you can taste an array of other Istrian delicacies, including the local raw ham (Pršut) and the pork fillet (Ombolo), as well as olive oils, local wines, sheep cheeses and goats cheeses, honey, and the mistletoe schnapps (Biska), rounded off by fried pastries such as Fritule and Krostule.

tury a three-nave church was built in the name of the patron saint, Saint Pelagius. The church was also an episcopal cathedral until the nineteenth century and was renovated and extended several times, most recently at the beginning of the twentieth century, in the neoclassical style. A paleo-Christian crypt can be found beneath the choir, a true rarity in Istria. The tall campanile resembles the Venetian campanile of Saint Mark, not entirely by coincidence; as early as the twelfth century, in fact, Novigrad swore an oath of allegiance to the Venetian Republic, which had gained strength. Well into the nineteenth century, Istria and Novigrad remained with the Maritime Republic and the traces of such a long rule are discernible wherever you look. To the north lies the romantic little fishing port known as the Mandra , once the heart of the town. Next to the church the patrician Rigo family built the impressive Palazzo Rigo, and immediately next to this is the Lapidarium, a modern building in glass and steel which is an exhibition hall, art gallery and museum at the same time. It displays selected objects in marble and stone from the local archaeological excavations, as well as liturgic items of furniture from the cathedral and the episcopal seat, including an outstanding ciborium and a container for communion wafers dating back to the Carolingian period. Lapidarium, 8a, Veliki trg, tel. (+385) 52726582, closed Mondays and bank holidays, admission fee: 10 HRK. In the southern area of the town, considerable parts of the medieval city walls are still preserved, thanks to which Novigrad is also a member of the international association of cities girded by walls (WTFC).

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GROŽNJAN This village lies on a hill around thirty kilometres north-east of Pore , not far from Buje. Anyone wishing to visit Grožnjan should avoid coming before May, as it does not come back to life until spring sets in after the winter break. Then this old little town with its cobbled alleyways and stone houses becomes a stage for actors, musicians, artists, and craftsmen. The sound of jazz or classical music buzzes through the alleyways when artists of all ages organise concerts and theatrical plays. It is also the venue for summer courses organised by the International Musical Youth, which end with concerts in the Baroque parish church. After World War II there was a gradual migration of inhabitants, mostly Italian, and the settlement risked falling into oblivion and decay. Starting in 1965, artists from around the world repossessed the houses, renovated the tumbledown walls and pumped new life into the village, turning Grožnjan into an artists’ town, a Utopia come true. There are now around eighty permanent residents and about twenty art galleries and craft workshops.

F R O M P O R T O R O Ž T O P O R E Cˇ

THE BAREDINE CAVE Jama Baredine, Nova Vas bei Porecˇ, tel. (+385) 52421333, opening times: April and October 10.00am–4.00pm, May, June and September 10.00am–5.00pm, July and August 9.30am–6.00pm, www.baredine.com Near to Nova Vas, just a stone’s throw from our cycle route, lies one of the many caves in Istria’s karst region: the Baredine cave. It is well-known for its many bizarre stalactites and stalagmites, which have very imaginative names, such

as curtains, Madonna, the leaning tower of Pisa or the snowman. In addition to these figures, during the 40-minute guided tour which covers 300 metres you will also discover giant halls. Underwater lakes lie at the bottom of deep abysses and in the crystal clear water you can see the rare cave olm (Proteus anguinus), a colourless, blind inhabitant of the caves. The temperature inside the cave is constant at a pleasant 14°C.

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Porecˇ This town is a unique cultural monument where visitors can really feel its 6,000 years of history. The town centre lies on a narrow peninsula surrounded by the sea. The ruins of the mighty walls built in the Middle Ages to defend the city are partly preserved to this day. The fortified defensive towers (one pentagonal, one circular) in the historical city centre also date back to the same period. The city had many different rulers over the centuries: the Romans, the Byzantines, the doges of Venice, Napoleon, the Habsburgs, the Italians, and the Yugoslavs. The town layout dates back to Roman times: the main artery of the town is still called decumanus while the old Trg Marafor market place was a Roman forum.. Next to the market place are the impressive ruins of the Roman temple of Mars and Neptune, while a Romanesque house from the thirteenth century stands on the eastern side of the square. A promenade winds its way around the peninsula and the street on the southern side is dotted with cafés and restaurants. There is an abundance of shops along the alleyways, including four wine bars with many different culinary treats. There is a public beach to the south of the marina, from which a ferry service

P O R E Cˇ

F r o m Ve n i c e t o Po r e cˇ

Museums 1 Heritage Museum of Porecˇ and its surrounding area 2 Aquarium

Tourist office

Porecˇ

Hotels 6 Hotel Porecˇ

Restaurants and pubs 3 TKonoba C´akula 4 Bistro Nono 5 Pizzeria Dali

Vladimira Nazora

bus station

Ulica Istarskog razvoda

Zagrebacˇka ulica

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leaves at 20-minute intervals to the small island of Saint Nicola which lies just off-shore, with rocky and pebbly beaches open to the public on the south side. The most important art monument of Pore is undoubtedly the sixth-century Euphrasian basilica, now on the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites. The basilica is part of an extensive complex which also includes the atrium, the baptistery, the tall campanile and the episcopal palace, housing the museum of sacred art. The marvellous mosaics decorating the floor and the apse are outstanding evidence of the paleo-Christian period. The floor mosaics from the fourth and fifth century, as those of other paleo-Christian churches in Italian towns such as Aquileia, Grado or Classe near Ravenna, feature geometric patterns, with motifs of meanders, tendrils and birds and immortalise members of the community who donated sections of mosaic in Roman measurements. The sixth-century mosaics in the apse are very famous and display skills of great artistry: the bishop Euphrasius, founder of the basilica, is depicted

TOURIST OFFICE 9 ZagrebacË&#x2021;ka, 52440 PorecË&#x2021; tel. (+385) 52451293 - www.to-porec.com

without a halo and holds a model of the building in his arms. The basilica is still the episcopal seat of the diocese of Pore and Pula and is one of the most significant sacred buildings in Croatia. The complex is a unique example of Late Antiquity architecture.

Sights worth seeing HERITAGE MUSEUM OF PORECË&#x2021; AND ITS SURROUNDING AREA 1

The museum, which is housed in the magnificent Baroque palazzo of the Sin i family, is the oldest in Istria. The archaeological collection began as early as 1884 and was later expanded to include folk art and a library. The building is under renovation and is currently open only for special events, such as concerts and thematic exhibitions. 9 Decumanus, tel. (+385) 52431585 www.muzejporec.hr

AQUARIUM 2 The aquarium is centrally located and has twen-

ty-four tanks with seventy different species of fish, mussels and crustaceans from the Mediterranean. 4 F. Glavini a, tel. (+385) 913672777 Open daily 9.00amâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;10.00pm.

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You will be surprised by the sheer variety and at the same time the harmony of the cuisine on offer in Istria. Together with dishes of Mediterranean influence, boosted by the local olive oil, there are specialities such as black and white truffles, wild asparagus and Pršut, a lean, air-dried ham which is given its unique taste by the Bora, the cool downslope wind that blows here in winter. THE AUTOCHTHONOUS BOSKARIN BEEF The Boskarin, a trademark of the local farms, is a white-grey breed of cattle from Istria with long, crooked, pointed horns. The Boskarin ox was once used to till the farmland and has recently become appreciated for its tender, lean meat. It is bred in accordance with a breeding programme with the support and promotion of the AZRRI organisation. For further information see: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tjd3mDMkV78

TRUFFLES, A GEM OF ISTRIAN CUISINE No modern gourmet menu

would be complete without truffles. This fungus that grows underground amidst the roots of Mediterranean trees, mainly the oak, is one of the most delicious and most expensive of foods. It is actually a tuber resembling a potato and gives off an extremely intense aroma. Truffles are used raw, in thin shavings, to “garnish” dishes. According to gourmets it goes

P O R E Cˇ

Eating and drinking

well with foods that are somewhat bland or mild. It goes well with risotto, egg noodles (tagliatelle,, in Italian), potato or cheese dumplings, egg dishes, fillet of veal and mild processed cheese, but not so well with highly spiced meats, roasts, grilled dishes or hard cheeses. Truffles were appreciated even in Roman times: the god Jupiter apparently hurled a bolt of lightning at an oak tree causing the tubers, which are also credited with having an aphrodisiac effect, to form amidst its roots. The best places for truffles are in the oak forests surrounding the small hilltop town of Motovun. White truffles ((Tuber Magnatum Pico) are the most precious and grown from September to January; the black Perigord variety ((Tuber Malanosporum) grows in spring, the black Tuber sporum Aestivium variety can be found almost all-year-round (although its main season is in summer), and the Tuber Brumale grows mainly in winter. The black truffles are characterised by a knobbly surface; they have a less intense aroma and are also considerably lower in price compared to the white truffles. In order to underline the importance of truffles in Croatian cuisine, a special trademark has been created: “Pravi tartuf ” (literally, “real truffle”, known as Tartufo vero in Italian), which is awarded to those restaurants that meet the required standard of quality.

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years. They are the oldest known trees to be cultivated throughout the world and are also a symbol of the Mediterranean landscape, where the mild climate offers an ideal habitat. A twig of olive tree is the symbol of peace while its knobbly trunk stands for longevity and the oil produced by its small, mature fruits is an essential ingredient of the local cuisine. It is considered a healthy, light and life-prolonging ingredient – in a nutshell, it really represents Mediterranean cuisine. There are several autochthonous olive cultivars in Istria, where good restaurants and wine bars offer Pendolino, Lecciono, Buza, and Bjelica “tasting sessions”. WINE Signs along the roadside remind us that we are in a winegrowing area and the wine routes take us to the villages, winegrowers and wine cellars. Over the past 15–20 years many fundamental changes have been made in viticulture in this region. New cultivation and cellar techniques achieved excellent results and wine from Istria is now considered to belong to the first-class category. Some of the most high-profile names in the Croatian wine-growing industry now work in this small area, such as Kozlovi and Degrassi, Coronica and Kabola, Ravalico and Cattunar, Clai, Veralda, CUI, and many more. The gentle, sun-drenched hills, the particularly mineral-rich soils – such as the red calcareous and the grey flysch soils – as well

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OLIVE OIL Olives have been cultivated here for at least 6,000

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as the extraordinary climate with summer heat during the day and the cool breezes from the sea or the mountains, have a favourable effect on the aroma of the grapes. THE MOMJAN MUSCAT In the hinterland of Buje, near to the

town of Momjan, an autochthonous grape variety was developed over the centuries to produce a real speciality: the white, aromatic Muscat of Momjan (Muškat momjanski). It is believed that the grape was imported from Friuli in Italy around the year 1200 and was then transformed over the centuries to this particular variety of Muscat, which produces a dry yet sweet pressed wine with an intense yellow hue. TERRANO, THE KING OF RED WINES The great red wine of the region is called Terrano and is a variety of the Refošk grape. The Terrano grows in stony, clayey karst soils which produce juicier wines than the Italian Refosco grown in the plains of Friuli and the Collio or in the region of Emilia Romagna. It is cultivated mainly in the north-west of Istria, above all around Umag and Momjan, in the hinterland of Buje. The Terrano is typically dark in colour and has an intensely sour taste, and goes well with a hearty snack of cheese and raw ham, or meals of game, roast meats and in general meals that are highly

spiced. It was once the predominant variety used for the simple, rough table wine of the farmers. Since then, however, the carefully pressed Terrano has become a prized speciality. THE SCALLOPS FROM NOVIGRAD These large scallops (whose shells were once a symbol linked with the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela, in Spain), are found in the bay of Novigrad, where the fresh water of the Mirna River mixes with the salt water of the sea, creating perfect living conditions. The Kapešante,, as they are called here, are considered by gourmets to be one of the most delicious types of mussel. It is thus no surprise that they are given the place of honour at the annual culinary Gnam-Gnam Festival of Novigrad, along the tables measuring metres in length spread out with seafood. PRŠUT, THE ISTRIAN RAW HAM Pršut raw ham is a traditional speciality of the country. Its uniqueness lies in the way in which it is processed: first any rind and fat is removed, then the hams are dry-cured for twelve months with natural spices. The Bora cold north wind is also partly responsible for the quality. The Pršut is usually hand-cut prior to serving and occupies a top position in the local cuisine: you’ll find it on the list of starters on any menu. GREEN WILD ASPARAGUS Picking wild asparagus in spring is one of the favourite pastimes of the locals who get down to serious picking when the new spears begin to appear on the thorny

bushes in the undergrowth. They can be quickly blanched for the preparation of omelettes, while the thin, tender spears of the wild green variety have since become a stable spring ingredient on the menus of the local restaurants. BISKA The home-made schnapps known as Biska makes an ex-

cellent digestive. It is made using a thousand-year old recipe with pomace (the solid remains of grapes after pressing), mistletoe, honey and four types of herb.

EVENTS , Mid-July–end of August: Iustitia, a historical pageant held in Porecˇ. In the year 1699, Domenico Furlan, a gang leader who created a great deal of instability throughout Istria, broke into the Porecˇ basilica and began to carry out a huge crime: he pried open the tabernacle and stole the valuable, consecrated jars plated in silver and gold. He was captured soon afterwards, put in the stocks in the main town square, sentenced to death for this crime and executed. This event is commemorated every year with a historical pageant in old costumes. Join in with the inhabitants of Porecˇ and celebrate with music, dancing and good food and let justice be done, as the name of this event implies. The price of the ticket covers a guided city tour, admission to the local history museum as well as food and drink. The event is organised by the Heritage Museum; call (+385) 52880088 or visit www.istrainspirit.hr to book your ticket.

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The Croatian rivers In view of the predominant karst landscape it is hard to imagine but thanks to the impermeable layers of flysch, Istria is extremely rich in water. Numerous small rivers flow through the hills on their way to the Adriatic Sea. DRAGONJA The small Dragonja River, thirty kilometres in length, partly follows the Croatianâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Slovenian border. The extensive salt flats of Se ovlje and the fish breeding area for sea bass lie on the Slovenian side, in its delta. With its innumerable small waterfalls and meanders the Dragonja is a natural tourist attraction with cycle and foot paths along its banks. MIRNA With a total length of fifty-three kilometres, the Mirna

River is the longest in Istria. It has its source in the lower mountains near Buzet and flows into the Adriatic by Novigrad. Parts of the river have recently been discovered by canoeists and kayakers, while the flat, shallow delta area measuring around 465 hectares is rich in flora and fauna; several hundreds of bird species nest here in the summer and many protected species of amphibians, reptiles and mammals find their habitat in the area, which is due to become a protected nature reserve.

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USEFUL INFORMATION – ITALY

EMERGENCY NUMBERS

United Kingdom Venice

113: State Police stations are found

Address: 2/5 Piazzale Donatori di Sangue,

only in larger towns 112: General emergency number for

30171 Venezia Mestre Tel: +39 041 5055990

the Carabinieri (Italian national

E-mail: britconvenice@tin.it

police force) who are stationed

United States Venice

in all larger villages and towns

Consular Agency

115: Fire service

Venice Marco Polo Airport

118: Emergency medical services,

General Aviation Terminal

hospitals

Address: 30, Viale Galileo Galilei, 30173 Tessera (Venice) Tel: +39 041 5415944 MONEY Exchange rate: as of June 2014, 1 US Dollar = 0,74 Euro 1 British Pound Sterling = 1,26 Euro The currency is the euro and other currencies are not normally accepted but they can be changed in any bank. You can pay nearly everywhere with credit

INFORMATION

cards or cashpoint (instant teller) cards.

ENIT Italian State Tourist Board

Cheques are not always accepted.

1, Princes Street - London W1B 2AY Tel: + 44 020 7408 1254

HEALTH

(Information Office)

EU citizens can use the National Health

Fax: + 44 020 7399 3567

Service in Italy. For emergencies, you can

E-mail: info.london@enit.it

find a doctor via a hospital, a tourist office

Website: www.enit.it

or a hotel. A medical care card for non-EU citizens or the European Health Insur-

630, Fifth Avenue - Suite 1965

ance Card entitles you to free treatment

New York, New York 10111

(for all items or services directly covered

Tel: +1 212 245 5618

by the Italian National Health System).

E-mail: newyork@enit.it

See https://www.ehic.org.uk/Internet/

Website: www.enit.it

home.do. Non EU citizens will have to purchase

CONSULATES

insurance in their country of origin.

Australia Venice Address: Edificio Porta dell’Innovazione,

INTERNET WI-FI

12, Via della Libertà,

You can find Internet cafés easily in larger

30175 Venezia Marghera

towns and in tourist centres. Middle and

Tel: +39 041 5093061

top-end hotels have Internet. In most

Canada Padua

tourism offices and near universities WI-FI

Address: 25, Riviera Ruzante,

Internet access is free.

35123 Padua Tel: +39 049 8781147

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PUBLIC TRANSPORT There are railway stations in the centre of nearly all the towns in which you stay and the bus stations are also nearby. Nearly all the towns can be reached by train. Many local and regional trains have compartments that take bicycles (they are marked by a bicycle symbol on the timetables in the stations; see http://www.trenitalia. com, also in English). Taxis are expensive. It is advisable to use the bus in town.

Eating places Normal opening times: noon–2.30pm; 7–10.30pm. August is the traditional holiday month also for retailers and some restaurants. ELECTRICITY You will need to take an adapter with you for three-point UK and Irish plugs; if you come from another English-speaking country, find out if your plugs are compatible with Italian sockets before you leave home.

OPENING TIMES Pharmacies Normal opening times:

LANDLINES AND MOBILE PHONES/

Mondays–Fridays 8.30/9.00am–

CELL PHONES

12.30pm; 3.30/4.00–7.30pm

Do you make a lot of calls with your

Saturdays 8.30/9.00am–12.30pm.

mobile/cell phone? If you do, you should

Each pharmacy will display information

get an Italian phone card to avoid high

showing where you can find a phar-

roaming fees. You can get one from 5

macy open outside these times.

euros. The main providers are Vodafone,

Banks Normal opening times:

Tim, Wind and 3, who have their own

Mondays–Fridays 8.20–1.20pm;

stores in all the larger towns.

2.30–3.30pm

The international code for making calls

Post offices Mondays–Saturdays 8.30am–1.30pm Shops Mondays–Saturdays

from Italy to the UK is 0044, 00353 for the Republic of Ireland, 001 for the United States and Canada, 0061 for Australia

8.30/9.00am–12.30/1.00pm;

and 0064 for New Zealand. To call Italy,

3.30/4.00–7.30/8.00pm.

dial 0039 then the number including the

Some supermarkets are open non-

first 0.

stop Mondays–Saturdays from 9am to 7pm. Shopping malls also open on

TIPS

Sundays. In Venice and in the largest

People no longer expect to be tipped as

tourist areas many shops are also

a matter of course, but hardworking and

open on Sundays.

courteous staff are pleased if you round

Food shops and groceries are normally up the bill. On the menu of most restauclosed on Wednesday afternoon, all

rants the cover charge is listed at the

other shops are closed on Monday

bottom: it can be 10-15% of the bill, in

morning.

pizzerias it amounts to a couple of euros. No tip is then expected.

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USEFUL INFORMATION – SLOVENIA

EMERGENCY NUMBERS

MONEY, BANKS AND CREDIT CARDS

112: Fire and rescue service

Slovenia introduced the Euro as its cur-

113: Police

rency on January 1, 2007. Exchange rate: as of June 2014,

GENERAL INFORMATION The Official Travel Guide

1 US Dollar = 0,74 Euro 1 British Pound Sterling = 1,26 Euro

by Slovenian Tourist Board

The most widely accepted credit cards

www.slovenia.info

are Mastercard and Visa. Cashless pay-

Tourist information Portorož

ments using credit cards or cashpoint

TIC Portorož

(instant teller) cards can be made any-

16, Obala - SI-6320 Portorož

where via POS terminals. Cash can be

Tel: +386 5 6742220

withdrawn around the clock at ATMs

ticpo@portoroz.si

(a list of which can be found here:

www.portoroz.si

http://www.bankomati.net).

British Embassy 3, Trg republike SI-1000 Ljubljana - Slovenia Tel: +386 1 2003910 info@british-embassy.si Embassy of the United States of America 31, Prešernova cesta SI-1000 Ljubljana - Slovenia Tel: +386 1 2005500 usembassyljubljana@state.gov

HEALTH, MEDICAL ASSISTANCE

slovenia.usembassy.gov

Medical assistance in Slovenia meets

Consulate of Canada

European standards. In addition to the

49A, Linhartova cesta

well-equipped state ambulances and

SI-1000 Ljubljana - Slovenia

hospitals there are also private doctors.

Tel: +386 1 2524444

For EU citizens, emergency medical as-

canada.consul.ljubljana@siol.net

sistance is free of charge.

Consulate of Australia

For more information about medical treat-

14, Železna cesta

ments in Slovenia, please refer to your

SI-1000 Ljubljana - Slovenia

local health authority.

Tel: +386 1 2348675 austral.cons.sloven@siol.net

INTERNET WI-FI Internet connections are now available in

IMMIGRATION DOCUMENTS

hotels and tourist centres as a standard.

Slovenia is part of the Schengen area

To find the nearest hotspots in an area,

which means that in general no passport

see: www.hotspot-locations.com/

controls are made at the border crossing points with Italy. When travelling to Slove-

TRAFFIC, PUBLIC TRANSPORT

nia you need either a valid passport or ID

To use the motorways and dual carriage-

card. A driver’s licence is not considered a ways you must purchase a toll sticker or travel document!

vignette. A one-week vignette for a car is currently 15 Euros.

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For a timetable of the public bus routes

LANDLINES AND MOBILE PHONES

between Portorož–Izola–Koper in English,

The international dialling code for Slovenia

see: www.ap-ljubljana.si/eng

is 00386. As always, when making an international phone call omit the zero

OPENING TIMES

before the local dialling code.

Pharmacies: The Slovenian word for

In Slovenia there are three mobile phone

pharmacy is Lekarna, which can be

providers: SI Mobil, SI Mobitel and SI Vega;

recognised by the international phar-

if you make a lot of phone calls it is worth

macy symbol. At all pharmacies you

purchasing a Slovenian pre-paid SIM card.

will find information concerning the nearest pharmacies on emergency

TIPS

duty.

If you are satisfied with the service you

Banks: The banks in Slovenia are nor-

receive, it is normal to give a tip (Napit(Napit-

mally open Mondays–Fridays 8.30am–

nine)) to waitors, room maids, tour guides

noon; 12.30–4.30pm, Saturdays

or drivers of between 5% and 10%.

8.30–noon. Post offices: The post offices in Slovenia

TAXIS

are normally open Mondays–Fridays

Taxi ranks are generally situated at the sta-

8am–6pm, Saturdays 8am–noon.

tion, in the main square of a town or at the

Shops: The shops in Slovenia are nor-

quayside. Fares are usually calculated by

mally open Mondays–Saturdays 9am–

the taximeter but for longer journeys it may

7pm. You can pay nearly everywhere

be worth negotiating a fixed price first.

with credit cards or cashpoint (instant teller) cards. Public holidays:

WATER Tap water is perfectly fine for drinking.

April 27 – Day of Uprising Against Occupation

CUSTOMS

May 1 and 2 – May Day holiday/

The free movement of goods applies

Whit Sunday

within the EU, which means you can take

June 25 – State holiday

any personal belongings you wish to

August 15 – Assumption day

Slovenia, with the exception of tobacco

October 31 – Reformation day

products and alcoholic beverages, for which restrictions apply. For further infor-

ELECTRICITY

mation visit www.slovenia.info and in the

You will need to take an adapter with

search box enter: items and cash.

you for three-point UK and Irish plugs; if you come from another English-speaking

RESTAURANTS

country, find out if your plugs are compat-

In any restavracija (restaurant) you will be

ible with Slovenian sockets before you

served at the table and will in general be

leave home.

given a choice of international dishes and local specialities. In a gostilna (inn) on the other hand, you are more likely to find typical local dishes and in a snack bar or okrepcˇevalnica you will mostly find only snacks or simple dishes. Cafeterias are called kavarna, most of which serve only cakes and desserts in addition to coffee.

206

F r o m Ve n i c e t o Po r e cˇ

USEFUL INFORMATION – CROATIA

EMERGENCY NUMBERS

MONEY, BANKS AND CREDIT CARDS

The general number to dial in an emer-

Currency: Croatia has not yet introduced

gency is 112

the Euro. 1 Kuna = 100 Lipas. Currency code: Kn, HRK.

GENERAL INFORMATION Croatian National tourist board

Exchange rate: as of June 2014, 1 Euro = 7.58 Croatian Kuna (HRK).

http://croatia.hr/en-GB/Homepage

1 US Dollar = 5.58 Croatian Kuna (HRK).

Tel: +385 (0)52 88 00 88

1 British Pound Sterling = 9.57

Embassy of the United States of America

Croatian Kuna (HRK). Exchange regulations: There are no re-

2, Andrije Hebranga

strictions regarding the amount of national

10000 Zagreb, Grad Zagreb, Croatia

or foreign currency brought into or taken

Tel: +385 1 661 2200

out of the country, although a declara-

irc@usembassy.hr

tion is necessary for amounts exceeding

zagreb.usembassy.gov

40,000 Kn. Cashless payments using

Embassy of Australia

credit cards or cashpoint (instant teller)

Kaptol Centar, 3rd Floor

cards are widespread and can be made

11, Nova Ves

anywhere via POS terminals. Cash can

10000 Zagreb, Grad Zagreb, Croatia

be withdrawn around the clock at ATMs.

Tel: +385 1 489 1200

If you withdraw in Kunas, your own bank

australian.embassy@zg.t-com.hr

will give you a more favourable rate, com-

www.croatia.embassy.gov.au/

pared to withdrawals at a local bank. It is

British Embassy

advisable to change a small amount into

4, Ivana Lucica

Kunas, however, as other currencies are

10000 Zagreb, Grad Zagreb, Croatia

not excepted everywhere: some public

Tel: +385 1 6009 100

establishments such as museums are

british.embassyzagreb@fco.gov.uk

even obliged by law to accept payment

Consulate of Canada 4, Prilaz Gjure Dezelica

only in Kunas. The most widely accepted credit cards are Mastercard and Visa.

Zagreb, Croatia 10000 Zagreb, Grad Zagreb, Croatia

HEALTH, MEDICAL ASSISTANCE

Tel: +385 1 488 1200

Medical standards are good. In general,

zagrb@international.gc.ca

the costs of emergency medical treat-

www.Croatia.gc.ca

ment are borne by the health insurance funds and British health insurance com-

IMMIGRATION DOCUMENTS

panies have an agreement with Croatia,

Croatia has been a Member State of

which makes it unnecessary to apply for

the EU since July 1, 2013 which means

a European Health Insurance Card (for EU

that the regulations for staying in and

citizens) or an international health insur-

entering the country, as well as customs

ance card for non-EU citizens.

regulations, are aligned with those of the European Union. When travelling to Croa-

INTERNET WI-FI

tia you need either a valid passport or ID

Internet connections are now available in

card. A driver’s licence is not considered a hotels and tourist centres as a standard. travel document!

To find the nearest hotspots in an area, see: www.hotspot-locations.com/

F r o m Ve n i c e t o Po r e cˇ

207

TRAFFIC, PUBLIC TRANSPORT

ELECTRICITY

Bus connections are good and also

As in western Europe, the mains voltage

include longer routes such as the service

is 220 V AC (frequency 50 Hz); two-point

between Porecˇ and Trieste.

European type plugs can be used every-

Bus timetables can be found here:

where. You will need to take an adapter

http://www.buscroatia.com

with you for three-point UK and Irish plugs; if you come from another Englishspeaking country, find out if your plugs are compatible with Croatian sockets before you leave home. LANDLINES AND MOBILE PHONES The international dialling code for Croatia is 00386. If you make a lot of phone calls or intend staying in Croatia for a longer period of time, it is worth purchasing a

OPENING TIMES

Croatian pre-paid SIM card. The three

Pharmacies: Most pharmacies (Ljekarna) largest mobile phone providers are: have longer opening hours. There is

Vipnet, Tele2 and Cronet.

also an emergency rota of dispensing pharmacies in Croatia for any medi-

WATER

cines required at night.

Tap water is perfectly suitable for drinking

Banks: Banks are open Mondays–Fri-

in all parts of the country.

days 7am–7pm and on Saturdays from 7am–1pm. Post offices: Most post offices are open

CUSTOMS Croatia is a Member State of the EU,

Mondays–Fridays 7am–7pm; in smaller which means the free movement of goods locations they close earlier at 2pm. In

applies to people travelling to the country

tourist centres and larger towns and

provided these items are for personal

cities, they are also open on Saturdays

use. Restrictions apply to alcohol and

and Sundays.

cigarettes (e.g. 90 litres of wine and 800

Shops: During the holiday season, most

cigarettes).

shops are open daily 8am–8pm, and many are also open at weekends.

RESTAURANTS

Authorities and offices are generally

There is a very wide choice, from res-

open to the public Mondays–Fridays

taurants that serve international dishes

8am–4pm

alongside local specialities, to typical

Public holidays: May 1 – International workers’ day June 22 – Anti-fascist struggle day June 25 – Statehood day August 5 – Victory and homeland Thanksgiving day and the day of Croatian defenders August 15 – Assumption day October 8 – Independence day November 1 – All Saints’ day

country inns (Konoba) and agrotourism farms, which offer farm-grown produce.

Notes

L I B E

· · · · ·

G I

R E E N S

GR EE N S were born from the need to provide cyclists with information on the Girolibero tour in Italy and France. GR EE N S consist of 3 books: • a tourist guide for cyclists • a complete set of maps for the tour • a roadbook Other G R E E NS are being prepared for: Paris–London, Provence–Camargue, ...

Further information at: greens@girolibero.com

This guide accompanies the Girolibero cycling tour and aims to whet your appetite for the regions between Venice and PorecË&#x2021; : , scenically and culturally fascinating places , historical information , useful information , tips on good meals and snacks