Tuscany - Girolibero Greens cycling guide

CYCLING GUIDE

Tuscany Sights, history, wining and dining tips, useful information

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ABOUT THE AUTHOR Amerio Tronca used to explore the Berici Hills astride his BMX as a child.

Now saddled up on Girolibero’s orange bikes, he scouts and reccies new routes across Europe, and leads tours in Italy and France. Whenever on home ground in Vicenza, Amerio enjoys his virtual travels from the comfort of his desk, writing up itineraries and designing new tours.

EDITORIAL TEAM Silvia Fortunato has no qualms in claiming that her bike is her top means of transport. After two seasons leading tours along the Danube Bikeway, she has joined the Girolibero team working on maps and other background material.

Silvia’s passion is collecting maps for her mountain hikes and feasting on the produce on offer at the hillside farms.

Fabio Perselli, the translator, has led Girolibero groups along the cycling trails of Italy and Provence for many seasons.

He is also a travel writer and professional translator specialising in theatre and classical music, along with travel. A fervent foodie, Fabio is co-author of the Bike & Barge Cookbook – Waterways of Venice, published in 2018.

Photography: Bar Pasticceria Artigiana Dolci, Massimo Berti, Francesca Paoletti, Pixabay, Ristorante Fittifitti, Amerio Tronca, Enrico Zarri, Wikipedia.

All other photos by Girolibero and no.parking.

Girolibero, Vicenza 2018 Concept and design: www.noparking.it Maps: www.noemastudio.it Printed in Italy www.girolibero.it

AMERIO TRONCA

Tuscany

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This guide is designed to accompany our bike tours through Tuscany.

As well as focusing on the classic highlights of the region, it explores off the beaten track and delves into its artistic heritage, natural treasures and cultural quirks, revealing many of Tuscany’s lesser-known gems.

Along the way, the guide provides practical tips aimed at making your experience as authentic, enjoyable and safe as possible.

It also covers food and drink, picking through the dishes and wines of Tuscany, and recommending some favourite stopovers along the trail, whether you are after a meal or a light snack.

Index Tuscany . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 FLORENCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

History of the city . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

The best in brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Eating and drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

16 18 24 34 37

FROM PISA TO FLORENCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Pisa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

History of the city . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

The best in brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Eating and drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

From Pisa to Lucca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

From Lucca to Montecatini . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

39 41 44 45 55 58 59 67

Montecatini . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

History of the city . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

The best in brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Eating and drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Montecatini round tour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

From Montecatini to Florence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

77 80 81 87 88 89 97

Pistoia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

History of the city . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

The best in brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Eating and drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

111 112 113 119 120

From Florence to Pisa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 Empoli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127

THE VIA FRANCIGENA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Lucca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

History of the city . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

The best in brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Eating and drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

From Lucca to San Miniato . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

137 142 143 146 153 155 157

San Miniato . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

History of the city . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

The best in brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Eating and drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

From San Miniato to Colle di Val d’Elsa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

San Gimignano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

163 164 167 171 173 179

Colle di Val d’Elsa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

History of the city . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

The best in brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Eating and drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

From Colle di Val d’Elsa to Siena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Siena round tour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

185 185 189 194 194 196 199

CHIANTI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Siena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

History of the city . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

The best in brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Eating and drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

From Siena to Radda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

203 205 208 209 217 218 221

Radda in Chianti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

History of the city . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

A stroll through Radda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Eating and drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

227 227 228 230 230

From Radda to Greve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Greve in Chianti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

A stroll through Greve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Eating and drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

From Greve to Florence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

From Florence to Tavarnelle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

231 237 238 239 240 241 245

Tavarnelle Val di Pesa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

A stroll through Tavarnelle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Eating and drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

From Tavarnelle to Colle di Val d’Elsa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

From Colle di Val d’Elsa to Siena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

251 252 253 255 259

Useful information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262

MAPS OVERVIEW OF THE REGION . 13 From Pisa to Florence . . . . . . . . 38 The Via Francigena . . . . . . . . . 136 Chianti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202 CITY MAPS Florence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Pisa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Montecatini . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Pistoia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 Empoli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 Lucca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 San Miniato . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162 San Gimignano . . . . . . . . . . . . 180 Colle di Val d’Elsa . . . . . . . . . . 186 Siena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206 Radda in Chianti . . . . . . . . . . . 226 Greve in Chianti . . . . . . . . . . . 236 Tavarnelle Val di Pesa . . . . . . . 250

STAGES OF THE TOUR Pisa–Lucca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Lucca–Montecatini . . . . . . . . . . 68 Montecatini Loop . . . . . . . . . . . 90 Montecatini–Florence . . . . . . . . 98 Florence–Pisa . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 Lucca–San Miniato . . . . . . . . . 156 San Miniato–Colle di Val d’Elsa.174 Colle di Val d’Elsa–Siena . . . . . 195 Siena Loop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 Siena–Radda . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220 Radda–Greve . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232 Greve–Florence . . . . . . . . . . . 242 Florence–Tavarnelle . . . . . . . . 246 Tavarnelle–Colle di Val d’Elsa . 254 Colle di Val d’Elsa–Siena . . . . . 258

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Tuscany Benvenuti in Toscana! – one of the most bewitching regions in Italy. Right at the heart of the peninsula, enclosed by the Tyrrhenian Sea and the Apennines, Tuscany bursts with beauty, character and history – a land celebrated the world over for its landscapes, cities of art, medieval burgs, earthy cuisine and fine wine.

This guide accompanies the cyclist through three distinct itineraries, exploring a range of districts and neighbourhoods – each one diverse yet all joined at the hip by a common history, the gift of natural richness, and an imperishable pride in the local heritage. Gone may be the days of the Guelph-Ghibelline battles that helped shape the future of western civilisation, when Tuscany’s city states pledged loyalty respectively to the Pontiff in Rome or to the Holy Roman Emperor in northern Europe; but local passions still run as high as ever when Siena’s medieval quarters clash at the Palio, their jockeys pitted in Piazza del Campo and racing bareback (wear the wrong colours in the wrong contrada at your own peril). So too, Baron Ricasoli and his family are as fiercely proud of their crest on their bottles of Chianti – arguably the finest – as their forebears were in 1141.

The first route crosses the northern part of the region at the foot of the Apennines, where for centuries the Maritime Republic of Pisa, the Duchy of Lucca and the Republic of Florence vied for dominance.

The second traverses the Chianti lands, celebrated for their wine and famous as the battle ground between Siena and Florence.

The third starts in Pisa and follows the Via Francigena between Lucca and Siena, a pilgrimage and trade route that linked France and Rome during the Middle Ages, and was defended by castles and fortified burgs – each in turn controlled by the city states of Tuscany.

With no further ado, let us saddle up and ride our faithful steeds into these hills, vineyards and woodlands, skirting waterways and plunging into cultivated plains. A patchwork of Etruscan settlements, medieval castles and country churches awaits; along with Renaissance manors, agriturismo estates and working farmsteads. Last but certainly not least: the treasures of Florence, Pisa, Siena and Lucca; and the gems of Montecatini, San Gimignano, Colle Val d’Elsa...

Buon viaggio!

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Tuscany timeline 600,000-40,000 BC Stone tools found in the Arno Valley establish

the existence of Homo Heidelbergensis and, later, of Neanderthal Man. 6000 BC Commercial trading, particularly in obsidian, between the islands off Tuscany’s coastline and the mainland.

X-VIII CENTURY BC Villanovan civilisation (the earliest Iron Age culture of central and northern Italy), noted for the practice of cremation and burial in urns, metalwork and ceramic pottery.

IX CENTURY BC Etruscans settle in central Italy, in an area covering modern-day Tuscany and part of Umbria (Etruria).

VI CENTURY BC Etruscan expansion at its peak and the Golden Age of Etruscan civilisation.

309 BC Battle of Lake Vindemone: the Romans defeat the Etruscan towns of Tarquinia and Vulci and win definitive control of Etruria.

I CENTURY AD Institution of the Regio VII Etruria, one of the eleven regions that formed the Italian peninsula at the time of the Emperor Augustus.

VI CENTURY Depopulation of the area after the fall of the Western Roman Empire; successive domination by Ostrogoths and Byzantines.

569 Tuscan lands fall to the Germanic Longobards, who found the Duchy of Tuscia, based in Lucca.

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774 Charlemagne conquers the Longobard Kingdom and estab-

lishes the Kingdom of Italy: the Duchy of Tuscia becomes the March of Tuscany.

XI CENTURY Rise of the Maritime Republic of Pisa.

XII-XV CENTURY Establishment of the Free Comunes: Lucca, Florence and Siena emerge as the principal city states in Tuscany – often in conflict over total dominance.

1555 Cosimo I de’ Medici, Duke of Florence, conquers Siena with the support of Emperor Charles V. 1569 Cosimo I de’ Medici is invested with the title of Grand Duke of Tuscany.

1737 Death of Gian Gastone, last in the Medici family line. Francis Stephen of Lorraine (Francis I, Holy Roman Emperor) inherits the title of Grand Duke of Tuscany, marking the beginning of the Habsburg-Lorraine dynasty in Tuscany.

TUSCANY IN FIGURES AREA: 22,987 square kilometres INHABITANTS: 3,745,500 PROVINCES: Prato, Livorno, Arezzo, Pistoia, Pisa, Lucca, Grosseto, MassaCarrara, Siena, plus Metropolitan City of Florence LAND COVERAGE: woodland 44%, cultivated 39%, Mediterranean maquis 7%, prairie 5%, urban 4%, arid 0,6%, wetland 0,4%

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TUSCANY

TUSCANY

1801-14 In the wake of the Treaty of Lunéville, Austria cedes

Tuscany to France, with the establishment of the Kingdom of Etruria. From 1807 onwards, the restored Grand Duchy of Tuscany is administered as a Territory of the First Empire of France, created by Napoleon Bonaparte.

1814-59 After the fall of Napoleon and the Congress of Vienna, the Grand Duchy of Tuscany is once again ruled by the HabsburgLorraine, first under Ferdinand III, then Leopold II. 1847 The Duchy of Lucca becomes part of the Grand Duchy of Tuscany.

1859 Leopold II seeks refuge at the court of Vienna and the Council of Florence nominates a provisional government.

1860 Tuscany is annexed by plebescite to the Kingdom of Sardinia – in due course the Kingdom of Italy.

1865-1871 Florence is the capital of the Kingdom of Italy.

TUSCANY ON THE INTERNET WWW.REGIONE.TOSCANA.IT Regional Council official site WWW.VISITTUSCANY.COM Official site produced by Regional Council’s tourism authority

WWW.DISCOVERTUSCANY.COM Commercial site with tips, blogs and all the latest

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Florence Emerging from the Middle Ages as a major centre of culture, trade and finance, Florence has long been considered the Cradle of Renaissance – a city of art where epochs have come together to create a phenomenon that bears few equals. While it is best known for its Golden Age under the Medici, Florence can point to many other rich chapters in its history, from the tenure of the Habsburg/Lorraine, to its role within the new Kingdom of Italy from the 1860s onwards. With its art collections, museums and churches; gardens, piazzas and ancient palazzos, Florence now draws millions of visitors every year from across the world.

While tourism clearly enjoys the lion’s share of the economy, the city’s development and progress are also driven by small industry, along with commerce, the services and – by no means least – traditional crafts. Florentine fashion houses enjoy

METROPOLITAN CITY OF FLORENCE IN FIGURES SURFACE AREA: 3,514 square kilometers POPULATION: 1,013,348 SIX LARGEST TOWNS BY POPULATION: Florence: 382,775; Scandicci: 59,645; Empoli: 51,234; Sesto Fiorentino: 49,085; Campi Bisenzio: 45,279; Bagno a Ripoli: 25,538

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international repute with their renowned alta moda shows at Palazzo Pitti. Publishing too thrives here, with a range of national dailies and publishers.

Florence is the capital of its region, Tuscany, as well as the administrative centre of the Metropolitan City of Florence, which encompasses 42 comuni. With its 382,775 dwellers, it is the most populous city in Tuscany and 8th biggest nationally. The urban area of Florence rises from the plain of the River Arno and is surrounded by the hills of Careggi, Fiesole, Settignano, Arcetri, Poggio Imperiale and Bellosguardo. The historic centre, which holds most of the city’s cultural and historical heritage, was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1982.

Florence remains to this day an international cultural beacon.

Founded in 1321, the year of Dante’s death, the Università degli Studi di Firenze is one of Italy’s prime institutions and provides for some 60,000 students, Italian and foreign. Other cultural establishments include the National Central Library of Florence (Italy’s largest); the Accademia della Crusca (principal authority on the Italian language and the oldest linguistic

TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE OF FLORENCE Via Camillo Cavour, 1. Tel. 055 290832 Opening times: Mon-Fri 9am-1pm. Sat, Sun and holidays closed

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study centre in the world); and the Opificio delle Pietre Dure (Workshop of Semi-Precious Stones), which ranks among the top restoration institutes worldwide.

History of the city The earliest documented dwellers in the area date to the Villanovan civilisation (IX-VIII centuries BC) and settlements developed from the II century BC onwards when the Etruscans of Fiesole secured a crossing over the River Arno – probably where Ponte Vecchio is now located. In Roman times the strategic and commercial importance of this minor outpost was boosted by the construction of the Cassian Way in the second half of the I century AD, while the colony of Florentia was founded in the second half of the same century.

After the fall of the Roman Empire, Florentia and Tuscany fell to a succession of rulers. The Byzantines and Ostrogoths first, then the Longobards and Carolingians, and finally the dukes of the Holy Roman Empire. Upon Matilda of Tuscany’s death (1115), Florence was no longer subject to Imperial rule and became a commune.

The age of the communes astride the XII and XIII centuries brought economic growth and territorial expansion to the main Tuscan cities such as Lucca, Siena and Pisa. Florence too started to extend its influence over neighbouring lands, particularly in its endeavour to control the Via Francigena way, which opened up new commercial routes to the rest of Europe for its traders. So with its craftsmen establishing themselves in guilds (known as Arti), and its richest traders engaging

FLORENCE ON THE INTERNET EN.COMUNE.FI.IT Official homepage of the City Council: current events plus history, culture, museums. (Also in English)

WWW.FIRENZETURISMO.IT The city’s official tourism website, with information on where to go, events, leisure facilities, guided tours, markets and where to eat. Free official app for mobile devices, FirenzeTurismo. (Both also in English)

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The fleur-de-lis has been the symbol of Florence since the XI century and the heraldry colours go back to the conflict between the Guelphs and the Ghibellines. Although its origin remains uncertain, a legend claims that Florentia was founded during the Floralia, the Roman festivities celebrating the advent of sprintime, honouring the goddess Flora – hence the association. Another legend has the name and symbol deriving from a mythical founder named Fiorino. By Christian tradition the lily, symbol of purity, is the flower

associated with the Virgin Mary – in turn often associated with the city.

Most likely, however, is that the bearded iris (Iris Germanica or, in Italian, giglio di Firenze) grows abundantly in the surrounding countryside.

The lily has also featured on the florin since 1252 – the gold coin most in use in Europe until the Renaissance. It also appears on the crest of Fiorentina, the city’s football team: known as the Viola, they play in purple.

THE ‘ARTI’ OF FLORENCE The guilds of arts and professions in Florence were born between the XII and XIII centuries as corporations and regulatory bodies. They were composed of 7 Arti Maggiori, devoted mainly to manufacturing, commerce and finance; and 14 Arti Minori, focused on arts and crafts.

During the Middle Ages, the Arti Maggiori played a key role in the economic growth and government of the city. The most ancient and

powerful was the Arte dei Mercatanti or di Calimala: founded in 1182, its members were involved with raw materials such as wool and cloth imported from Britain and Spain, and in selling textiles produced locally. With the consolidation of the Medici Signoria and the discovery of the Americas, the political and economic influence of the Arti began to decline; they became all but extinct in the XIX century.

themselves in the earliest banking activities, the city gradually attracted more and more people from its duchy, offering opportunities for work and gain. This also led to overcrowding in the districts outside the city walls, however, which in turn brought about the creation of charitable orders dedicated to the relief of poverty.The Baptistry and Basilica of San Miniato are prime examples of architectural masterpieces brought into being during this period.

The XIII century also witnessed some of the bloodiest fighting among the noble families of Florence, who sided either with

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FLORENCE AND THE LILY

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the Guelphs or the Ghibellines – two names subsequently coined to designate the loyalties of opposing political factions during this period: the Guelphs supporting the Papacy, the Ghibellines the Holy Roman Emperor.

In 1260 the latter defeated the Guelphs at the Battle of Montaperti, reclaiming Florence and exiling their foe. The tables were turned in 1266, with Manfred of Hohenstaufen (King of Sicily) slaughtered at battle of Benevento and the Ghibellines conclusively driven from the city.

The XIV century blessed Florence with economic prosperity, propelled by its bankers, textile manufacturing and commerce. The city’s affluence in turn favoured its flourishing in the arts and culture, including the creation of several architectural masterpieces: the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, Palazzo Vecchio, the walls and Giotto’s belfry among them.

This was also a time of political instability, however, and military weakness: Florence suffered a number of defeats and territorial losses; several Florentine bankers were ruined after

GUELPHS AND GHIBELLINES The names derive from the two Houses vying for the succession to the Holy Roman Imperial Crown in the XII centuries: the Welfen and the Hohenstaufen, lords of Weiblingen Castle. They were first coined in the Annales Florentini to distinguish and group the local aristocratic families contending for power.

Initially, the Guelphs were not protected by the Papacy, with the Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II of Hohenstaufen taking the Ghibellines under his wing. Only after the emperor’s excommunication by Gregory IX (for delaying the launch of the Sixth Crusade, in 1228) did the Guelphs benefit from Rome’s support.

The distinction between Guelphs and Ghibellines that grew within the noble Houses of Florence, culminating in the institution of Priors (1282 – state administrators elected within the guilds) was set aside in the interests of the merchant classes, to favour the economy and commerce.

In 1300 the Guelphs, who dominated Florence, split into two factions: the Whites, mostly from guilds supporting political and economic independence from the Papacy; and the Blacks, in the main aristocratic families keen to restore power in the hands of the nobility, even if at the expense of Papal interference in the city’s affairs.

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the outbreak of the Hundred Years’ War (1337); uprisings became the norm, driving the deprived populace against the richer families. In 1348 the Black Death reduced the population by a half and brought the economy to a standstill.

From 1382 to 1434 the city was governed by an oligarchic system headed by the Albizi and Strozzi families, until Cosimo de’ Medici, with the backing of the people, seized power: Cosimo effectively became ‘Lord’ of Florence, and the city’s destiny would thereafter be linked to the Medici family well into the XVIII century.

During this period of so-called Signoria, Florence enjoyed peace and prosperity: consolidating its dominion in Tuscany, it also shone as a beacon of culture and the arts across Europe and beyond, establishing Humanism and the Renaissance as the fundamental cultural movements of the time.

From 1494 the Medicean dominance of Florence was interrupted by a repubblican government, inspired by the Dominican monk, Girolamo Savonarola.

A succession of political ebb and flow saw the Medici restored in 1530 by the intervention of Charles V, who laid siege to Florence and put an end to all attempts by the Florentine people to restore a republican system. In 1532 Alessandro de’ Medici

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was nominated Duke of Florence, and in 1569 Cosimo I became Grand Duke of Tuscany.

In 1743 the Grand Duchy came under the control of the Habsburg-Lorraine; while the city’s economy was revitalised, its cultural status was eclipsed internationally by the ascendancy of Neoclassicism and Illuminism abroad.

After the Unification of Italy, Florence became the Kingdom’s capital from 1865 to 1870; its urban layout was radically modified by the architect Giuseppe Poggi, and part of the city walls knocked down to make way for avenues, residential districts

THE CRADLE OF RENAISSANCE From the XIV to the XVI centuries Florence was the centre of a cultural and artistic revolution. The literary heritage handed down from Petrarch to Boccaccio and to the Florentine Humanists – who championed the rediscovery of Greek and Roman classicism, and the study of human nature – brought about a new perception of Man as ‘the architect of his own fate’. In Florentine art especially, the rebirth (rinascita) of classical forms,

complemented by studies on perspective and human nature, was initiated by Giotto; it established itself through Masaccio, Donatello and Brunelleschi; and culminated with Raphael, Leonardo and Michelangelo. Their influence soon radiated beyond Florence through their travels and the patronage of foreign courts: the Rinascimento, with its figurative language and humanist ideals, quickly spread across Europe.

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and palazzos. The early decades of the XX century saw the urban area expand into the outlying hills.

After a year of German occupation during WW2 – and considerable destruction to its buildings and bridges – Florence was finally liberated on 11 August 1944 by Allied troops and partisans.

On 4 November 1966 the Arno breached its banks, flooding the city centre and killing over 100 people – its worst inundation since 1557. The damage to the artistic heritage of Florence was incalculable, and would have been catastrophic without the efforts of the ‘Angels of Mud’ whose intervention is acknowledged to this day.

In the XXI century, by virtue of its historic, cultural and artistic heritage, the city attracts some eight million visitors from all corners of the earth; along with Milan, Florence is also the capital of Italian fashion.

DANTE AND FLORENCE The Father of the Italian language and author of the Divine Comedy was born in Florence into a family of lesser nobles, the Alighieri. Dante was active in Florentine politics as a member of the White Guelphs and was elected Prior in 1300. In response to the clashes between White and Black Guelphs, Pope Boniface VIII ordered the intervention of Charles of Valois, and Dante was despatched to Rome with an embassy. In November 1301 Florence was torched by the Black Guelphs, who seized power and launched into a systematic purge of their foes. The sentence hanging over Dante’s head was severe: he would be burnt alive and his house destroyed. His attempts at returning to his homeland came to nothing and in the following years the poet embarked upon a life of exile in a number of courts in Italy, eventually reaching Ravenna. Dante travelled

to Venice as Ravenna’s ambassador, and it was on his return journey that he contracted malaria: he died in his adoptive city in 1321 and is buried in the Basilica of St Francis.

In the XV century Dante’s remains were officially reclaimed by the Florentines – and by Michelangelo himself – but to no avail: not even in his death was the supreme poet allowed to return to the land of his fathers.

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The best in brief FLORENCE

1 PIAZZA DEL DUOMO AND BAPTISTRY

Florence Cathedral (or Duomo di Firenze) rises where the Cathedral of St Reparata once stood and is dedicated to St Mary of the Flower (Santa Maria del Fiore) – a lily, symbol of the city.

Comprising the Cathedral, Bell Tower and Baptistry, the complex illustrates the transition from medieval art to the Renaissance.

It was begun by Arnolfo di Cambio in 1296 and subsequently modified by Giotto, Andrea Pisano and Francesco Talenti; in its time it was the largest religious edifice in Europe.

The Cathedral is Gothic in style, with a Florentine accent, its façade restructured in 1871 by the architect Emilio De Fabris.

The magnificence of the exterior owes much to the majestic dome, by Brunelleschi: built using hitherto untried techniques, it is self-supporting and consists of a double shell with a complex system of ‘catenary arches’ and herringbone brick pattern. Within, the cupola is decorated with frescoes of the Last Judgement by Giorgio Vasari and Federico Zuccari. The rest of the Cathedral’s interior is unexpectedly simple, though embellished with frescoes by Andrea del Castagno, Paolo Uccello and Domenico Michelino.

The central rose window depicts the Assumption of Mary, designed by Lorenzo Ghiberti. The central nave leads to the Crypt of St Reparata, discovered in the course of groundworks. The site also shows where Brunelleschi’s tomb was found.

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Giotto’s belfry is a prime example of Florentine Gothic. Started in 1334, it was completed by Andrea Pisano and Francesco Talenti.

The Baptistry, dedicated to St John the Baptist – patron saint of Florence – is Romanesque. It has an octagonal plan and is dressed in strips of white Carrara and green Prato marble, with additional Renaissance embellishments.

The current entrance is the Cathedral’s oldest doorway. It was sculpted by Andrea Pisano in the early 1300s with scenes of the Baptist’s life.

The north door is by Lorenzo Ghiberti, winner of the competition tendered by Arte di Calamaia guild, the Baptistry’s governing authority in the early 1400s.

The east door, defined by Michelangelo as ‘heavenly’ on account of its beauty and crafted by Ghiberti in his maturity, is a masterpiece of crafted gold.

The three portals are capped by sculpted groups dating to the XVI century.

The interior of the cupola is entirely decorated with a XIII-century mosaic in Byzantine style; the walls are covered in marble, the floor decked with mosaics bearing Oriental motifs. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it 1 Via della Canonica. Tel. 055 2302885 Cathedral and Crypt: open daily 10am-5pm Dome and Bell Tower: open daily 8.30am-6.30pm Closed first Tuesday of each month Cathedral admission free. Combined ticket with Crypt, Dome, Bell Tower and Baptistry available, € 15

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FLORENCE

THE MEDICI AND FLORENCE The dynasty that guided the fate of Florence and Tuscany from the XV to the XVIII centuries originated from a family of wool merchants who, from the earldom of Mugello, had settled in town at the end of the XII century. Through their commercial and financial activity the Medici soon took centre stage in the city’s public and economic life, endearing themselves to the citizens through their generous endowments. The principal qualities shared by the family heads Giovanni di Bicci (1360-1429), Cosimo the Elder (1389-1464), Lorenzo the Magnificent (1449-1492) and their descendants were: good business acumen, a judicious approach to politics, a love of the arts and – with it – open-handed patronage. In addition to their rise to the Signoria

of Florence and the Duchy of Tuscany, the Medici also held the Papacy in Rome in 1513-1521 with Leo X (son of Lorenzo the Magnificent) and in 1523-1534 with Clement VII. Catherine de’ Medici (1519-1589) and Maria de’ Medici (1575-1642) both became Queens of France by marrying, respectively, Henry II of Valois and Henry IV of Bourbon. The Florentine House came to an end with Anna Maria Luisa de’ Medici (1667-1743): she wrote her name in history by bequeathing her family’s immense artistic heritage to Florence, declaring that the riches must remain as ‘ornaments of the State for the use of the Public’ that would ‘attract the curiosity of foreigners’ – and thus avoid dispersal.

2 PALAZZO VECCHIO

The building rises on the site of the ancient Roman theatre of Florentia, and since the XIII century has served as the symbol of Florence’s civic government: the Town Hall. It was initially known as Palazzo dei Priori (of the Priors), then Palazzo della Signoria (of Government); and finally, when Cosimo I de’ Medici transferred his residence to Palazzo Pitti, Palazzo Vecchio (Old).

Construction started in 1299 under Arnolfo Cambio, and the project was expanded by Giorgio Vasari in the second half of the XVI century to incorporate the ducal court. At this time the elevated ‘secret’ passage was also created: one kilometre in length, the Vasarian Corridor made it possible to reach Palazzo Pitti under cover, from Palazzo Vecchio through the Uffizi and over Ponte Vecchio bridge.

The main entrance, above which soars the Tower of Arnolfo, opens into three internal courtyards and to Vasari’s monumental staircase; this leads to the imposing Hall of the Five

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Hundred and the Monumental Quarters, dedicated to the celebration of the Medici family.

The second level is occupied by the Elements’ Quarters and Eleanor’s Quarters, at one time the private apartments of Cosimo I and his wife, Eleanor of Toledo.

Besides the rich decorations by Agnolo Bronzino, Ghirlandaio and Giorgio Vasari, visitors to Palazzo Vecchio can view Michelangelo’s marble sculpture of The Genius of Victory in the Hall of the Five Hundred, and Donatello’s bronze statue of Judith and Holofernes in the Hall of the Lilies. www.musefirenze.it Piazza della Signoria. Tel. 055 2768224 Open daily April to September 9am-11pm, October to March 9am-7pm. Except Thursday 9am-2pm Museum € 10, combined ticket with Archeological tour, Tower and Battlements € 18 3 UFFIZI

In 1560, to celebrate the city’s political and military might, Duke Cosimo I de’ Medici entrusted Giorgio Vasari with the project and construction of a new seat of government: it would house the administrative and judicial offices of the13 most important magistratures (uffizi) in the Duchy.

The U-shaped building, with its Doric-columned portico, was completed in 1580 by the architect Bernardo Buontalenti by commission from Cosimo’s son, Francesco I: the latter had decided to convert the octagonal Tribuna space on the top floor into a gallery for personal use, thus creating the first gallery for the art museum to come.

In the second half of the XVII century, further halls were redecorated and refashioned to display the works inherited by Vittoria della Rovere, wife of Ferdinand II and last descendant of the Dukes of Urbino. When the Medici bloodline came to an end, the collection was bequeathed, as prescribed by convention, to the City of Florence, as an untouchable endowment.

Leopold II, Holy Roman Emperor, had the gallery modernised and, in 1769, opened to the public. In 2016 alone, the Uffizi counted over 2 million visitors. www.uffizi.beniculturali.it 6 Piazzale degli Uffizi. Tel. 055 294883 Open Tuesday to Sunday 8.15am-6.50pm Closed: Mondays, 1 January, 1 May, 25 December Admission: € 8. Free admission on the first Sunday of each month

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FLORENCE

THE UFFIZI MASTERPIECES

The Uffizi are spread across three floors and over 100 rooms. The ground floor holds the museum entrance, ticket office and book-/ giftshop. The itinerary starts on the first floor, with works exhibited in chronological order from the XIII to the XVIII centuries. The following panel highlights some of the most notable masterpieces displayed at the Uffizi.

The Medici family’s collection of ancient statuary is displayed along the Uffizi corridors, as well as within the rooms. These include the original Hellenistic work known as Venus de’ Medici, from the I century BC, up in the Tribuna gallery; and the Niobe group, in Room 42. The Vasarian Corridor (currently closed to the public) is home to over 1000 canvases from the XVII and XVIII centuries, and a collection of self-portraits of the most prominent artists from the XV century onwards.

Room 2 Giotto Madonna Enthroned (or Ognissanti Madonna) Room 5 Gentile da Fabriano Adoration of the Magi Room 7 Paolo Uccello Battle of San Romano Room 8 Piero della Francesca Portraits of the Dukes of Urbino Room 10 Sandro Botticelli The Birth of Venus, Spring Room 15 Leonardo da Vinci Annunciation, Adoration of the Magi Tribuna Anon. Greek I century BC Venus de’ Medici Room 20 Albrecht Dürer Adoration of the Magi Room 35 Michelangelo Doni Tondo (or Doni Madonna) Room 57 Andrea del Sarto Madonna of the Harpies Room 66 Raphael Madonna del cardellino (or Madonna of the Goldfinch) Room 83 Titian Venus of Urbino Room 81 Caravaggio Shield with Medusa’s Head, Bacchus, Sacrifice of Isaac

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Florence has suffered flooding on a number of occasions in the course of its history, with the Arno breaking its banks in extreme weather. The most severe was recorded in 1333, with the loss of several bridges in the city, including Ponte Vecchio.

Violent inundations also occurred in 1557 and 1884. The last critical one took place on 4 November 1966, swamping the entire valley from

source to estuary. The historic centre of Florence was submerged, the water level reaching 6 meters in places. While the human toll, at 101, was relatively low, damage to the city’s heritage was incalculable. Help quickly poured in from all corners of the world, in a bid to salvage works of art and books: the volunteers came to be known as the Angeli del fango – Angels of Mud.

4 PONTE VECCHIO

The last complete reconstruction of Ponte Vecchio, which has been damaged several times over the centuries, was recorded in 1345, and it was the only bridge in Florence to have been spared by the Germans in 1944. The arcades originally housed the dyers’ workshops and butchers’ premises; since their malodorous and insanitary detritus would be dumped into the river, Ferdinand I, towards the end of the XVI century, ordered their substitution with workshops for gold and silver crafts.

5 PITTI PALACE AND BOBOLI GARDENS

This imposing palace was initially designed by Filippo Brunelleschi for Cosimo the Elder, who thought it wise to reject the plan on account of the building’s exaggerated sumptuousness, which would not be welcomed by his fellow citizens.

In 1458 one of Florence’s wealthiest families of merchants and bankers, the Pitti, resolved to see the unfinished project through and create a residence that would eclipse the magnificence of their rivals, the Medici.

As fate would have it, the palazzo was then acquired in 1549

by Eleanor of Toledo, wife of Cosimo I de’ Medici, thereafter serving as residence to the Grand Dukes of Tuscany. Subsequently, during Florence’s brief tenure as the capital of the Italian Kingdom, Palazzo Pitti also became the residence of Victor Emanuel II. Behind it, created between the XVI and XIX centuries, lie the Gardens of Boboli (45,000 m²), one of the prime Italian Gardens in the world and a veritable open-air museum.

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THE ARNO AND THE ‘ANGELS OF MUD’

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FLORENCE

MUSEUMS Art lovers planning to spend some extra time in Florence would do well to buy a Firenzecard, which gives access to 72 museums and sites.

It lasts 72 hours and costs € 72: www.firenzecard.it Tickets for the museums listed below can be bought online on: www.b-ticket.com 11 Galleria dell’Accademia boasts a rich selection of Michelangelo sculptures (including the iconic David, The Prisoners and Saint Matthew) and its collection of ‘gold leaf’ works from the XIII-XV centuries. www.galleriaaccademiafirenze. beniculturali.it Via Ricasoli, 58/60. Tel. 055 294883 Open Tuesday to Sunday 8.15am-6.50pm Admission: € 8 12 The Bargello National Museum showcases masterpieces

by Michelangelo, Donatello and Benvenuto Cellini, among its collection of Renaissance statuary. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it Via del Proconsolo 4. Tel. 055 2388606, Open daily 8.15am-2pm Admission: € 8

Palazzo Pitti is home to the Palatine Gallery, a compendium of paintings second only to the Uffizi, and the Royal Apartments. The Modern Art Gallery features Tuscany’s impressionistic Macchiaioli (‘spot-painters’) from the XVIII to the XX centuries.

The Silver Museum holds many artefacts that once belonged to the Medici. www.uffizi.beniculturali.it 1 Piazza Pitti. Tel. 055 294883 Palatine Gallery, Royal Apartments and Modern Art Gallery Open Tuesday to Sunday 8.15am-18.50pm Closed: Mondays, 1 January, 1 May, 25 December Admission: € 8.50. Free on the first Sunday of each month Within the Boboli Gardens and housed in the Palazzina della Meridiana we find the Costume Gallery, spanning from the XVIII century to the present day.

The Porcelain Museum is in the Palazzina del Cavaliere.

Boboli Gardens Open daily (times variable) Closed: first and last Monday of each month, 1 January, 1 May, 25 December, Admission: € 7 combined with Silver Museum, Costume Gallery, Porcelain Museum and Bardini Garden

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www.operamedicealaurenziana.org 9 Piazza San Lorenzo. Tel. 055 214042 Open daily 10am-5pm, except Sunday: 1.30pm-5.30pm Closed Sundays from November to February Basilica € 5, combined ticket with Medicea Laurenziana Library € 7.50 7 BASILICA OF SANTA MARIA NOVELLA

One of the prime churches in Florence, to be found in the piazza of the same name, a short walk from the railway station.

Construction was started in 1279 at the request of the Dominican Friars and completed in 1360. The façade was accomplished in 1470 by Leon Battista Alberti, whose fusion of Gothic and Renaissance styles became an icon of Florentine Renaissance.

The interior is brightened by precious polychrome leaded windows and holds works by several masters from the XIII-XV centuries: a Crucifix by Giotto, fresco of the Holy Trinity by Masaccio; cycle of frescoes by Ghirlandaio in the Tornabuoni Chapel and by Filippino Lippi in the Strozzi Chapel; wooden crucifix by Brunelleschi and the Green Cloister with frescoes by Paolo Uccello. www.chiesasantamarianovella.it 18 Piazza S. Maria Novella. Tel. 055 219257 Open daily. April to September: Mon-Thu 9am-7pm, Fri 11am-7pm.

October to March: Mon-Thu 9am-5.30pm, Fri 11am-5.30pm.

Saturdays and Sundays times variable. Admission: € 5

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6 THE MEDICI CHAPELS, LIBRARY AND ST LAURENCE

In 1418 the head of the Medici family, Giovanni di Bicci, gave the city’s rather stark cathedral a total refurb. The project was assigned to Filippo Brunelleschi, who worked on it until his death in 1446: tidy lines, a precise geometry and Florentine pietra serena (grey sandstone) were his hallmarks, while the pulpits were panelled by Donatello. The façade remained unclad.

The Old Sacristy was one of Brunelleschi’s first undertakings, Donatello again contributing with some polychrome stuccoes.

The complex, known as Opera Medicea Laurenziana, includes the Library – started by Michelangelo and finished by Ammannati.

The Medici Chapels, accessed via the St Laurence apse, include the Chapel of the Princes and the New Sacristy: these hold the Medici tombs, again among Michelangelo’s marble masterpieces.

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FLORENCE

8 BASILICA OF SANTA CROCE

In 1211 St Francis arrived in Florence and was presented with a chapel dedicated to the Holy Cross. Towards the end of the XIII century the Franciscans decided to build a larger church and commissioned Arnolfo di Cambio, Florence’s top architect at the time. It was built by the end of the XIV century, although its Neo-Gothic façade was only added in the second half of the XIX century by Niccolò Matas.

The sweeping and solemn interior is designed to an Egyptian Cross plan; beyond the transepts, instead of the apse, there is a line of no less than 22 chapels fescoed by the top masters of the time. Particularly noteworthy, to the right of the Central Chapel, are the Peruzzi and Bardi Chapels: both are decorated

by Giotto, the latter offering a cycle dedicated to St Francis.

During the Renaissance, Santa Croce was a prestigious cultural centre in Florence and, holding the tombs of Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli – among other personalities – it is also a veritable Pantheon of Italian culture.

The cloister, to the right, presents an architectural wonder by Filippo Brunelleschi: The Pazzi Chapel, resting place of the family who was the nemesis of the Medici. The museum displays a crucifix by Cimabue (1272-1380), sadly damaged in the 1966 flood. www.santacroceopera.it 16 Piazza di Santa Croce. Tel. 055 2466105 Open Monday to Saturday 9:30am-1pm and 3-7pm.

Sundays 9:30am-7pm Admission: € 8 9 ABBEY OF SAN MINIATO AL MONTE

To the back of Piazzale Michelangelo, at one of the highests spots overlooking Florence, rises an ancient Benedictine monastery, a complex dating to the XI century. It is dedicated to St Minias, the first evangeliser and Christian martyr of Florence, who lived around 250 BC. By the legend, after being beheaded, the saint picked up his head and returned to the site of his hermitage, where the basilica now stands.

Along with the Baptistry of St John, in town, its façade flies the flag for the Romanesque architecture of Florence and for featuring a two-coloured external surface. Within, set in the inlaid flooring, is one of the oldest solstice compasses in Europe,

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featuring the signs of the zodiac. We find cycles of frescoes both in the Chapel of the Cardinal of Portugal (in the crypt), and in the Sacristy, illustrating scenes from the life of St Benedict. More frescoes are featured in the adjoining cloister – by Paolo Uccello, on the stories of hermits.

The monastic pharmacy sells spirits, honey and herbal teas produced by the resident monks. www.sanminiatoalmonte.it 34 Via delle Porte Sante. Tel. 055 2342731 Open Monday to Saturday 9:30am-5:30pm, Sundays 2am-5:30pm Admission free

10 VILLA DEL POGGIO IMPERIALE

Confiscated from the Salviati, a family opposed to the Medici, the villa was bequeathed by Cosimo I to his daughter Isabella.

It has been modified countless times through the centuries, altering the pure Renaissance aspect it originally had.

On 2 April 1770, this is where Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, then aged 14, gave his only perfomance in Florence.

Since 1865 it has housed an exclusive girls’ boarding school.

1 Piazzale del Poggio Imperiale Open on Sunday during the school year Free by donation

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Eating and drinking Florentine cuisine is simple, abundant and based on five principal ingredients: Tuscan bread, extra virgin olive oil, meat, beans and Chianti.

Bistecca alla fiorentina takes pride of place, the local T-bone sourced from either Chiannina or Maremmana cattle. Weighing in at 1.5 kg on average, it is usually shared. The steak is grilled over a wood or charcoal fire and traditionally served very rare.

Among the starters, ribollita is a thick soup of bread and vegetables, usually with cavolo nero (‘black cabbage’). Its name, ‘reboiled’, refers to the ingredients, often the leftovers from the previous meal.

Another classic is fagioli all’uccelletto, a bean dish cooked in an earthenware casserole with oil, garlic, tomatoes and sage.

Delicacies do not come more authentically local than the street food dished up at the trippai kiosks: your favourite ‘triper’ will rustle up a panino with lampredotto, made with strips of beef tripe.

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13 MERCATO CENTRALE Piazza del Mercato Centrale Tel. 055 2399798 Open daily 10am-12pm www.mercatocentrale.it The Central Market in Florence offers all manner of traditional, ‘craft’ and fresh specialities from its stalls: bread and pastries, fish (fresh, fried and in meatballs), raw and cured meats, buffalo mozzarella and other cheeses, chocolate, gelato, fresh pasta, wines, lampredotto and all manner of panini. Seating areas available to eat in.

14 AL TRANVAI 14 Piazza Torquato Tasso Tel. 055 225197 Open daily. Closed on Sunday www.altranvai.it Pocket-sized inn serving Tuscany’s most traditional. Elbow to elbow with your neighbour, alla fiorentina, as it has been for centuries.

Price range: € 15-30 15 ACQUA AL 2 40/R Via Vigna Vecchia Tel. 055 284170, Open daily, lunchtime only on Monday

www.acquaal2.it Founded in 1978, a few steps from Piazza della Signoria: cucina toscana with a creative twist and bags of buzzing ambience.

Price range: € 15-30 16 IL PAIOLO 42/R Via Corso Tel. 055 215019 Open daily, dinner only on Monday.

Closed on Sunday www.ristoranteilpaiolo.it In the heart of the historic centre: proud of its Florentine cuisine and focusing on seasonal and locally sourced produce.

Price range: € 45-60 17 OSTERIA DEL CINGHIALE BIANCO 43/R Borgo San Iacopo Tel. 055 215706 Open daily for dinner. Saturdays and Sundays also for lunch www.cinghialebianco.com Located on the ground floor of a XIV-century tower, this inn specialises in wild boar dishes (cinghiale) and other cucina fiorentina classics.

Price range: € 25-35.

FLORENCE

EATING AND DRINKING

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FLORENCE

A STROLL THROUGH FLORENCE

3.5 km / 2 hrs The best starting point has to be the iconic Ponte Vecchio. At street level, following the route of the elevated passageway known as the Vasari Corridor, we leave the Lungarno embankment and reach the Uffizi Gallery.

Walk on through the porticoed courtyard, under the gaze of the statues – 28 of the most famous Tuscans in history – braving the barricades of tourists and street artists. The tower of Palazzo Vecchio beckons at the far end, guarded at its feet by Michelangelo’s David (a replica, like his neighbours) and Bandinelli’s Hercules and Cacus. Benvenuto Cellini’s Perseus shelters in the Loggia dei Lanzi, while Donatello’s Judith and Holofernes get gory next to the Fountain of Neptune.

Cross Piazza della Signoria, take Via dei Calzaiuoli – the most central, elegant and busiest in Florence – and come to Piazza del Duomo: welcome to the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, the Baptistry of St John and Giotto’s belfry – all dressed in exquisite polychrome marble.

Leave Piazza San Giovanni along Borgo San Lorenzo and behold the ancient basilica; across the piazza, which is graced by the Medici Chapels, we turn into Via dell’Ariento – home of the San Lorenzo Market six days a week. A little beyond is the Central Market, the place to test your nerve with a lampredotto panino. Via Sant’Antonio next, as far as Piazza dell’Unità Italiana, a stone’s throw from the basilica of Santa Maria Novella and its magnificent façade. Into Via dei Banchi (opposite Grand Hotel Minerva) and then Via dei Rondinelli, which becomes (beyond Palazzo Antinori) Via de’ Tornabuoni – the hub of Florence’s most chic alta moda boutiques and jewelleries.

Cameras out as we cross Santa Trinità Bridge and its magnificent view of Ponte Vecchio, to reach the district of Oltrarno (Beyond the Arno), left of the river.

Via Maggio – its palazzi still every bit as majestic and austere as they were in the XVI century, when the Grand Dukes of Tuscany passed in procession – leads to Palazzo Pitti and, behind it, the Boboli Gardens.

We return to Ponte Vecchio along Via de’ Guicciardini, although a detour to Piazzale Michelangelo is a must (off to the right, along the embankment and then up and up). Your hike (or ride) will be rewarded by a vista to die for, especially at sunset: the Arno, Ponte Vecchio and, beyond, the very heart of Florence, Cradle of the Renaissance.

Engagements rings to the ready.

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Historically at the centre of quality textile production, Florence is considered the birthplace of Italian fashion – its initiator, the Tuscan entrepreneur Giovanni Battista Giorgini (1898-1971). In February 1951, in his Florentine residence, Giorgini presented the First Italian High Fashion Show, featuring the top fashion marques in Italy at the time. The event enjoyed considerable success, drawing international media attention and buyers; it has since been held in the prestigious setting of the Sala Bianca (White Hall) of Palazzo Pitti. Many of Italy’s

top fashion houses are now based in Florence, among them Gucci, Enrico Coveri and Roberto Cavalli.

Most haute couture brands have their boutiques in the Via de’ Tornabuoni and Via della Vigna Nuova area, in the heart of the historic centre. Florence also offers a number of museums dedicated to the rag industry (among them Galleria del Costume and Museo Cappucci); the internationally acclaimed Pitti Immagine event, every year; and fashion schools such as the Accademia Italiana di Arte, Moda e Design and Polimoda.

EVENTS , 25 March: Florentine New Year’s Day. Until 1750, this marked the start of the civil year, the day honouring the Annunciation in the Catholic calendar. A variety of festivities, from concerts to exhibitions, celebrate the event. , 24 June: Historic Football Tournament (Calcio storico): the four original districts of Florence – Santa Maria Novella, San Giovanni, Santa Croce, Santo Spirito – fight it out in Piazza Santa Croce. Much pagentry and costume – then down to business, as old rivalries resurface. Rugby, but without the rules or niceties. , End April till early July: Maggio Musicale Fiorentino. The prestigious festival was founded in 1933 and offers classical music in all its forms – including opera and ballet – as well as theatre. .Tel. 055 2779309 www.operadifirenze.it (also in English) , November: Festival dei popoli. The international Peoples’ Festival, founded in 1959, ranks among the top documentary film showcases. Strong on the art of film-making and social issues. .Tel. 055 244778 www.festivaldeipopoli.org (also in English) , Spring and autumn: Pitti Immagine for the very latest in alta moda. Exhibitions and sideshows abound, alongside the international business on the catwalks. www.pittimmagine.com

FLORENCE

FLORENCE AND HIGH FASHION

Camaiore

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Parco Naturale Migliarino San Rossore Massaciuccoli Ospedaletto

Vecchiano

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From Pisa to Florence

The Leaning Tower marks the start and finish of this bike trip, which takes in some of the best-known towns in Tuscany and offers along the way the nature and landscapes of some tuckedaway corners, along with their history, art, fine food and wines.

Between Pisa and Florence the itinerary traverses the Tuscan Sub-Apennines – first along the valley of the Serchio River; then through the hilly zones of the Pescia, the Valdinievole Valley and Montalbano; and finally along the Florence-Prato-Pistoia plane, carved by the Ombrone Pistoiese River.

Between Florence and Pisa, by contrast, it follows the course of the Arno almost all the way, brushing the southern slopes of the Cerbaie Hills and Mount Pisano.

The route’s terrain is as diverse as the landscape itself: tarmacked cycleways (with some dirt tracks) along the Serchio and Arno, mostly near Florence; minor roads with little traffic in the hills and planes. Towns and villages will have busier roads and crossings, and so too any areas that are intensively farmed (Florence-Prato-Pistoia plane).

And so we kick off from the broad embankments of the Arno in Pisa as we head for the mighty bastions of Lucca, crisscrossing as we go the trails that Giacomo Puccini held dear – through the marshes and reed groves of Lake Massaciuccoli and the Serchio.

The stately homes and gardens around Lucca’s hills are but a prelude to the majestic Villa Garzoni in Collodi where, as if by magic, we are propelled into the land of Pinocchio.

Montecatini’s Belle Époque up next, then another child’s playground: Vinci, where Leonardo was born.

A well-earned train ride – or a dose of tenacity up the bends of Montevettolini – takes us into Pistoia.

FROM PISA TO FLORENCE

Mistakes are necessary, as useful as bread and often quite beautiful: just look at the Tower of Pisa.

(Gianni Rodari, writer and journalist)

The resplendent Medicean villa of Poggio a Caiano, which deserves a generous rest from our cycling, shows the way to the Arno and towards Florence.

Empoli is a short hop by train, or else an energising ride away – via the Florentine Hills as far as Malmantile, and then down to Montelupo Fiorentino.

As we cross the Medieval settlements that once defended the Maritime Republic of Pisa, the rock of San Miniato becomes clearly visible.

Here we are back on the Arno: Buongiorno again, Pisa, and your bellissimo mistake of a Tower!

THE PROVINCE OF PISA IN FIGURES SURFACE AREA: 2,444 square kilometers POPULATION: 420,913 SIX LARGEST TOWNS BY POPULATION: Pisa: 89,940; Cascina: 45,091; San Giuliano Terme: 31,395; Pontedera: 29,125; San Miniato: 28,49; Ponsacco: 15,906

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Pisa Universally recognised for its iconic Leaning Tower, Pisa has no shortage of impressive credentials: the whole Piazza dei Miracoli complex at the Tower’s feet, a glorious past as a Maritime Republic and, to this day, three of Italy’s most prestigious universities – the Scuola Normale Superiore, the Scuola Superiore Sant’Anna and Pisa University.

The city rises on the plain between the Tyrrhenian Sea and Mount Pisano, and is traversed by the River Arno, a few kilometers from its source. Its province stretches to the foothills of the Apuan Alps to the north and includes, to the south, the Colline Metallifere (‘Metal-bearing Hills’) and the Cecina Valley, with the ancient city of Volterra.

Cultural tourism, commerce and transport form the backbone of the economy, along with mechanical industries (including the Vespa’s own Gruppo Piaggio), glass (Saint-Gobain) and ceramics manufacture. The universities and internationally-renowned research centres also contribute to the city’s workforce.

Shipbuilding has seen an appreciable growth in recent years, while the seaside resorts along Pisa’s shoreline have benefited from a revamp.

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Restaurants and pubs 9 Gelateria De’ Coltelli 10 Pizzeria Il Montino 11 La Clessidra 12 Osteria dei Cavalieri 13 Le Repubbliche Marinare 14 Il Bistrot 15 Gusto al 129 16 Orzo Bruno 17 Paninoteca Craft Brewery Mediceo

Hotels 18 AC Hotel Pisa 19 Hotel Repubblica Marinara 20 Grand Hotel Bonanno 21 Hotel NH Pisa Bikeshops 22 Papini 23 Cicli Parra

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VIA MARIO CA

VIA R. FUCINI

VIA SANVLIOARSEANNZOLORENZO

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History of the city According to legend, Pisa was founded by warriors returning from the Trojan Wars – Greeks who originally hailed from the city in the Peloponnese that bore the same name. The discovery of an Etruscan necropolis, however, at the end of the XX century, dates the first settlement of the area more conclusively to around the VII century BC. A century later, the outpost, which rose on the Arno a short distance from the sea – and was thus safer from marauding pirates – became a major commercial hub for Greeks, Phoenicians and Gauls.

In 180 BC Pisa was established as a Roman colony, serving as a naval base until the fall of the Western Roman Empire (476 AD).

After its periods of Byzantine and Longobard rule, in 774 the city became part of the County of Lucca with the arrival Charlemagne’s Franks.

Despite losing its autonomy, Pisa remained a key player by virtue of its well-organised fleet, which helped keep Saracen pirates at bay. This enabled it to gain numerous concessions – territorial, commercial and institutional – from both the Pope and the Emperor, which led to the birth of the Republic of Pisa in the XI century.

Until the first half of the XII century, the Repubblica Marinara, to use its Italian designation, was at the forefront of political events both on land – opposing Lucca and Florence – and on sea, meeting the Muslim advance head-on.

The colonies founded by the Pisani in the Mediterranean (in Sardinia, Corsica, the Balearic Islands and even in Syria) brought

PISA ON THE INTERNET WWW.TURISMO.PISA.IT The official homepage of the City Council with information about Pisa’s history, culture, museums and events. Free official app for mobile devices: Walking in the City – Pisa Urban routes. (Also in English)

WWW.PISAUNICATERRA.IT Province of Pisa official tourism website, with information on where to visit, events, leisure facilities, guided tours, markets and where to eat. (Also in English) WWW.ABOUTPISA.INFO A commercial website listing services, accommodation and restaurants for visitors in and around Pisa. (Also in English)

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about the secular rivalry with Genoa, the two maritime powers vying for control of the sailing routes and commercial seaports that served the East. Pisa and Genoa were both also protagonists in the conflict between the Papacy and the Empire – involving, respectively, the Guelfs and the Ghibellines.

Having sided with the imperial Ghibellines, Pisa’s fortunes declined rapidly after the death of Manfred of Swabia (or of Sicily), a downturn partly precipitated by the Republic’s own political instability. Pisa’s end as a maritime power was sealed by the Genoese themselves, who defeated the Pisan fleet at the Battle of Meloria in 1284, and in 1290 destroyed its harbour, Porto Pisano. In 1324 it was the turn of the Aragonese, who snatched Pisa’s commercial seaports in Sardinia.

From 1406 onwards, Pisa came under the rule of the Florentine Republic, and later of the Grand Duchy of Tuscany. By order of two Medicis, Lorenzo the Magnificent and Cosimo I, the city’s university – founded in 1343 – was reorganised; it then became a major centre of learning, notably in the sciences and in no mean part thanks to erudite figures such as Galileo Galilei.

In 1860, by public plebiscite, Pisa voted to join the fledgling Kingdom of Italy.

Pisa became a major theatre of war in the course of the Second World War, as the front between the Allies and Nazi-fascists became entrenched along the Arno in 1944. The city was besieged and suffered serious casualties and significant damage to its cultural treasures, before being finally liberated on 2 September.

The best in brief 1 PIAZZA DEL DUOMO (‘PIAZZA DEI MIRACOLI’)

The monumental complex of Pisa’s Cathedral Square was created under the auspices of an ancient charity, the Opera della Primaziale Pisana – literally, Works of the Pisan Primacy. Set up in 1063 by the Primate of Pisa (hence the archaic title), the OPP administers to this day the entire complex: the four principal

TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE OF PISA Located at 7 Piazza Duomo. Tel. 050 550100 www.turismo.pisa.it (Also in English) - Opening times: daily 9am - 5.30pm

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sites (Cathedral, Tower, Baptistery and Monumental Cemetery, or Camposanto – all prime examples of the Pisan Romanesque style) and three other buildings within the piazza. These are the Museum of the Sinopie (or preliminary sketches), the Opera del Duomo Museum and the Palazzo dell’Opera del Duomo, which houses the ticket office, library and some temporary exhibitions. The name ‘Piazza dei Miracoli’ (Square of Miracles) was coined by the poet Gabriele D’Annunzio.

Opera della Primaziale Pisana www.opapisa.it 17 Piazza Duomo Open daily To visit the Cathedral collect the free fixed-time ticket.

If you buy a ticket for any of the other sites, this will include a Cathedral pass which is not subject to a fixed time.

Tower € 18 Baptistery, Camposanto, Sinopie Museum: 1 site € 5; 2 sites € 7; 3 sites € 8 Opera del Duomo Museum temporarily closed for renovation

CATHEDRAL

Founded in 1064, according to tradition, in thanksgiving for Pisa’s victory over Palermo, the Duomo was consecrated in 1118.

The work was directed first by Buscheto, who created the original structure, and then by Rainaldo, who lengthened the nave and completed the façade.

The outside is covered in black and white marble punctuated with polychrome inlay, which is indicative of the eastern influence Pisa was open to in its exchanges with the Near East. The inscriptions on certain slabs suggest that material originally dating from Roman times has also been used.

A fire in 1595 caused substantial damage. The bronze portals are the work of XVII-century artists. The only surviving portal from the XII century is on display in the Opera del Duomo Museum: the Porta San Ranieri, crafted by Bonanno Pisano.

68 monolithic columns within the majestic cathedral lead for a length of some 100 m – effectively five naves with a shelving ceiling. The exceptional pulpit was created by Giovanni Pisano between 1302 and 1310. Other noteworthy treasures include the paintings by Andrea del Sarto and Antonio Sogliani, and Giambologna’s crucifix on the main altar.

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The construction was first undertaken by the architect Diotisalvi in 1153, and continued by Nicola and Giovanni Pisano, who also created most of the sculptures; many of these were removed in the course of the Baptistery’s restoration in the XIX century.

The outer first level is in the Pisan Romanesque style, while the upper is Gothic; it is crowned by a dome with St John the Baptist at its summit.

Inside it is simple and unadorned, with excellent acoustics. It houses a baptismal font designed by Guido Bigarelli and a pulpit by Nicola Pisano, decorated with scenes from the life of Christ.

Measuring 107 m in circumference and 55 m in height, the Baptistery is the largest in Italy.

GALILEO AND THE CATHEDRAL LAMP Galileo Galilei was born in 1564 in Pisa, where he undertook his early studies and subsequently taught mathematics at the university between 1589 and 1592. He is considered the Father of modern science for introducing methods based on experimentation and the mathematical analysis of natural phenomena. Galileo championed the principle of the sun being at the centre of our system (Heliocentrism) and Copernican theory, and his beliefs saw him tried and sentenced for heresy by the Inquisition. After recanting under torture, he was exiled to Arcetri until his death in 1642.

A popular story surrounding Galileo is that he discovered the Law of the Pendulum (isochronism) by observing the lamp hanging high in his Cathedral. (The one we see ‘swinging’ today is a copy, since the original hangs in the Aulla Chapel at the nearby Camposanto.

Another anecdote tells that he drew up the Equations for the Falling Body by dropping weights from the Leaning Tower.

The location of Galileo’s birth house remains, after centuries, an enigma.

Most likely, he was born in his maternal home, a building marked with a commemorative plaque in Via Giuseppe Giusti – which runs parallel to the Lungarno Mediceo embankment.

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Arguably the most iconic construction on our planet, this is the Cathedral’s belfry. It was started in 1173 by Bonanno Pisano under the direction of Diotisalvi, who was already at work with the Baptistery.

With its foundations embedded in alluvial soil, the Tower experienced its first subsidence as early as the time of completion of the first level.

Work was suspended for a good century and only resumed in 1275 under the direction of Giovanni di Simone and Giovanni Pisano, who attempted to compensate for the inclination through the design of the upper rings. The Tower was finished in 1350 upon the completion of the bell chamber. Cylindrical in the manner of Byzantine towers, it presents six circular galleries externally, decorated by pillars supporting narrow round arches.

The inclination increased over the centuries, but the work carried out in 2001 to consolidate the Tower has stabilised it at 4°, with a movement at the summit of half a metre.

THE TOWER OF PISA IN NUMBERS HEIGHT: 58.36 metres EXTERNAL DIAMETER: 15 metres WEIGHT: 14,453 tonnes INCLINATION: (current) approx. 4° HEWN STONES: 29,424

STONE SURFACES: 7,735 square metres CAPITALS: 207 STAIRCASE: 273 steps

CAMPOSANTO

In 1277 Archbishop Federico Visconti bequeathed this ‘Holy Field’ to gather in one place the sarcophagi distributed around the Cathedral area. The edifice, attributed to Giovanni di Simone, was the last to rise on Piazza del Duomo and accomplished in the XV century.

Inside it holds Graeco-Roman sarcophagi that were reused in the course of the Middle Ages to lay to rest the nobles of Pisa.

On the walls we can see some of the precious XIV-century frescoes restored after the fire of 1944. The masterpieces by Francesco Traini and Buonamico Buffalmacco address the themes of life and death.

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Among the sepulchral monuments is the Aulla Chapel, which guards ‘Galileo’s Lamp’, once hung in the central nave of the Cathedral.

PISA

SINOPIE MUSEUM

The story of this unique collection started with the WW2 bombings that set fire to the Camposanto and destroyed numerous frescoes. In the course of restoring the surviving ones, which required their removal from the walls, the preparatory sketches came to light. They are named after the red sinopia pigment (originally found in the soil of Sinop, in Turkey), widely used in antiquity for this purpose.

The museum is housed in a XIII-century building which served as a hospital until 1969.

OPERA DEL DUOMO MUSEUM

The museum safeguards the many sculptures and sacred objects collected in the course of the restoration works carried out over the centuries.

Inlaid wood and stone, bas-reliefs, capitals, vestments and reliquaries, all illustrate how Pisa’s art has developed, absorbing Islamic, Byzantine and classical influence along the way.

2 PIAZZA DEI CAVALIERI AND PALAZZO DELLA CAROVANA

In Medieval times the ‘Square of the Knights’ was the political and administrative centre of the city; the area was also known for its metal workshops serving Pisa’s shipyards.

In the XVI century Cosimo I de’ Medici entrusted his favourite architect, Giorgio Vasari, with the overhaul of the buildings surrounding the piazza, to their present state.

To the back of the statue is the main building, Palazzo della Carovana, home to the Knights of St Stephen – a militia founded by Cosimo I. It now houses the prestigious Scuola Normale Superiore di Pisa, widely regarded as Italy’s top university.

A clockwise sweep shows us the church of St Stephen of the Knights, the Presbytery, the palazzo of the Council of Twelve, Palazzo Puteano, the church of St Roch and, finally, the Clock Palazzo.

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The Pisan noble Ugolino della Gherardesca, immortalised by Dante in the infernal Circles of the Divine Comedy, was a commander of the Republic’s fleet in the ill-fated Battle of Meloria against the Genoese. His sin: Desertion, having ordered the retreat of some ships and thus handing victory to the foe. Despite the gravity of the charge, Ugolino was vested with the Republic’s highest political rank: Podestà, or Chief Magistrate – in which role he then negotiated peace terms with Genoa, much to the chagrin of Pisa’s Ghibellines.

He was detained in 1288 and locked up in the Muda Tower with his children and nephews. By order of the Archbishop, the new Podestà, the keys were then thrown into the Arno and the

prisoners left to die. The Muda is also known as the Tower of Starvation and is located in the Palace of the Clock in Piazza dei Cavalieri.

In Canto XII of the Divine Comedy Dante comes across Ugolino, who is trapped in a hole and forever doomed to gnaw at the skull of his worst political enemy, the Archbishop Ruggeri. In the following Canto he retells the gruesome story of his imprisonment, starvation and – most excruciatingly – seeing his children die one by one. A macabre legend, initiated by an ambiguous verse in the book, has struck terror in Tuscan children since time immemorial: Ugolino, it goes, kept himself alive to the bitter end by eating his own children’s flesh.

PISA

COUNT UGOLINO

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3 MIDDLE BRIDGE AND EMBANKMENTS

The Ponte di Mezzo was the only bridge, until the XII century, linking the two banks of the Arno. It was destroyed several times by floods in the course of the centuries and, in 1944, by Allied bombs.

It is also known as the Count Ugolino Bridge and marks Pisa’s most central point: the city’s famous embankments (or lungarni – literally, ‘along-the-Arnos’) start here, along which we find the most magnificent palazzi of the nobility and some of Pisa’s top museums. On the left bank, in Piazza XX Settembre, are the Logge di Banchi (literally, ‘porticoes of stalls’), once the wool and silk market, and Palazzo Pretorio with the Clock Tower.

On the right bank, in Piazza Garibaldi, is the Casino dei Nobili, the salon of Pisa’s aristocracy in the years straddling the XVIII and XIX centuries.

4 PALAZZO MEDICI AND NATIONAL MUSEUM OF SAINT MATTHEW

Lining the Lungarno Mediceo we find Palazzo Vecchio de’ Medici, an ancient tower-house that was the Medicis’ first residence in Pisa; today it houses the Prefecture. Nextdoor is the ancient

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The Gioco del Ponte is a traditional challenge among Pisa’s factions, that has been suspended, resumed and modified several times over the centuries.

A contest named Gioco del Mazzascudo (‘Club and Shield game’) was originally held in the XI and XIII centuries in Piazza dei Cavalieri, pitching the Gallo (Cockerel) and Gazza (Magpie) clans, armed with wooden clubs and shields; this was abolished by the Florentines in the early XV century, when they invaded Pisa.

During the Medici era the challenge was resumed and with time fought out on the Middle Bridge, with the districts from the southern side of

the Arno (‘Nooners’) clashing with the northern (‘Duskers’). It was banned again by the Habsburg Grand Duke Leopold II, who deemed it excessively violent.

Since 1935 the Gioco has been taking place on the last Saturday of June. Instead of the unbridled free-for-all of previous times, however, the sides now prove their strength by pushing at a cart from opposite sides, aiming to force it across the bridge; the team that gains control of the bridge wins. A historic pageant precedes, with a procession of the Noon and Twilight districts and the Jury. www.giocodelpontedipisa.it

Benedictine monastery of St Matthew in Soarta, which displays the largest collection of paintings and sculptures from the XII and XVII centuries assembled from the city’s churches and monasteries. Among them, masterpieces by Masaccio, Gentile da Fabriano, Beato Angelico and Ghirlandaio. Of particular interest are also the sections on medieval ceramics from the Mediterranean area, timepieces and miniature codices. www.sbappsae-pi.beniculturali.it 1 Piazza San Matteo in Soarta. Tel. 050 541865 Opening times: Tue-Fri 8.30am-7pm, Sat-Sun 8.30am-1.30pm.

Closed Monday Admission: € 5 5 CHURCH OF SANTA MARIA DELLA SPINA

A striking example of Pisan Gothic, this small oratory is located along Lungarno Gambacorti. The Church of St Mary of the Thorn was begun in 1230 and worked on by various artists from the school of Giovanni Pisano, who personally created the pulpit in the city Cathedral. Its current name dates to 1333, when it was bequeathed the relic of a Thorn from the Crown of Christ, now housed in the Church of Santa Chiara (St Clare).

PISA

THE GAME ON THE BRIDGE

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6 NATIONAL MUSEUM OF THE ROYAL PALACE

PISA

Residence of the Tuscan dynasties from the XVI century onwards, the museum exhibits a collection of armour, portraits, tapestries and furniture from the houses of the Medici, Lorraine and Savoy. Raphael, Rosso Fiorentino, Bronzino and Antonio Canova figure among the painters. www.sbappsae-pi.beniculturali.it 46 Lungarno Antonio Pacinotti. Tel. 050 926573 Opening times: Mon-Sat 9am-2pm. Closed Tuesday and Sunday.

Admission: € 5

7 MEDICI ARSENAL AND MUSEUM OF ROMAN SHIPS

Not far from Solferino Bridge, along the Lungarno Ranieri Simonelli, we find the shipyard ordered by Cosimo I de’ Medici in the XVI century, a brick structure containing 8 naves – each 60 m long, 8 m high and some 10 m wide. After a slow decline, it was converted into stables in the XIX century; now partially restored, it houses the Museum of Roman Ships. The collection features the 30 vessels dating from Roman times discovered in 1998 near Pisa’s San Rossore station.

14 Lungarno Ranieri Simonelli. Tel. 055 5520407 By reservation only Admission: € 12

THE LEGEND OF KINZICA

Kinzica De Sismondi is immortalised in Pisan history for saving the city from the Saracen hordes of Mujahid al-Amiri.

By the legend, Kinzica became aware one night that the invading army was setting fire to the district south of the river. The young woman rushed to notify the consuls, who immediately ordered the pealing of bells throughout the city; the din is said to have scared off the enemy at once.

Pisa suffered two incursions at the hands of Saracen pirates in the

course of its history. During the first, in 1004, the entire population – children and the elderly included – was slaughtered, with the exception of the womenfok. The second came decades later when the Pisan fleet was engaged in the defence of Sardinia’s coast. In Via San Martino, outside number 21, a statue stands in Kinzica’s honour: originally a Roman figure of a woman, her face was partly recarved in the XII century to resemble the heroine.

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8 TUTTOMONDO MURAL

Located in Via Zandonai

Eating and drinking Bathed by sea and river, Pisa’s cuisine features both sea- and freshwater fish along with meat and produce from the land.

The local kitchen is renowned for its simplicity, pride of place going to Tuscan bread, mushrooms, truffles and olive oil.

Risotto with truffle is a classic, along with bordatino: a maizeflour polenta with beans and cavolo nero (black cabbage), once popular on the high seas. Fish-based dishes include eel or stockfish with onion, tomato, potato, basil and parsley; and baccalà (salt cod) with leek, tomato and olive oil. Among the meats: tripe with onion, tomato and pancetta; bistecca di mucco pisano (Pisan cattle steak), Pisan cattle being a cross between Alpine cows and the bulls of the San Rossore nature park. Torta co’ bischeri is a Pisan shortcrust pastry made with rice, dark chocolate, pinenuts and candied fruit: the ‘Pilgrim’s cake’.

PISA

A short walk from Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II we see Keith Haring’s last work. With Tuttomondo (‘Allworld’), the American pop/graffiti artist sought to represent peace and harmony across the globe. The mural was created along the outer wall of the St Anthony Abbot Rectory, covering a surface of 180 square meters.

At its centre: the Pisan Cross, symbolising the city, depicted by four human figures joined at the waist.

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EATING AND DRINKING

9 GELATERIA DE’ COLTELLI 23 Lungarno Pacinotti Open daily summertime www.decoltelli.it Simply put: one of the best gelaterie in Italy. A short walk from the Middle Bridge. Nothing but top ingredients and fresh, seasonal fruit.

10 PIZZERIA TRATTORIA IL MONTINO 1 Via Del Monte, Tel. 050 598695 Open daily. Closed Sunday www.pizzeriailmontino.com Near Piazza delle Vettovaglie, the most ancient pizzeria in Pisa. Its wood-fired oven bakes pizza, small focaccia, chickpea cake and castagnaccio (with chestnut flour).

Pisan and Tuscan cuisine.

Price range: € 10-25 11 LA CLESSIDRA 26 Via del Castelletto, Tel. 050 540160, Open daily, lunchtime by reservation only. Closed Sunday www.ristorantelaclessidra.net Between Piazza dei Cavalieri and Via Borgo Stretto: land, sea and pizza. Limited seating and an internal garden.

Price range: € 25-50 12 OSTERIA DEI CAVALIERI 16 Via San Frediano, Tel. 050 580858, Open daily, lunchtime only on Saturday. Closed Sunday www.osteriacavalieri.pisa.it Near Piazza dei Cavalieri: unpretentious ambience, dishes from Tuscany’s soil and sea, and a decent selection of wines.

Price range: € 25-50.

13 HOSTARIA LE REPUBBLICHE MARINARE 8 Vicolo del Ricciardi, Tel. 050 20506, Open daily www.repubblichemarinare.eu A short walk from the Church of Santa Maria della Spina and Lungarno Gambacorti: traditional maritime cuisine, with a rich selection of wines.

Price range: € 25- 50.

14 IL BISTROT 17 Piazza Chiara Gambacorti Tel. 349 075 9809, Open daily.

Closed Wednesday and lunchtime Saturday, www.ilovebistrot.it Tiny but traditional: dishes are local, as are the wines.

15 GUSTO AL 129 10 Via Santa Bibbiana Tel. 050 6203117, Open daily for dinner. Closed Monday www.gustoal129.it The pizza is light, fragrant and easy to digest. Quality ingredients.

16 PUB ORZO BRUNO 6 Via Case Dipinte, Tel. 050 578802 Open daily 7pm-2am www.orzobruno.it Public taproom of the Birrificio Artigiano di Bientina craft brewery.

17 PANINOTECA CRAFT BREWERY MEDICEO Lungarno Mediceo 53 Tel. 050 541080, Open daily 7pm-0.30am, closed Monday www.mediceo.it Public tavern of the Pisa La Gilda dei Nani Birrai craft brewery – a mouthful to pronounce as the evening wears on, but worth the effort.

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2.5-3 km / 1.30-2 h After the ‘must-do’ experience of climbing the 273 steps of the Tower and taking in the panoramic views, we land back on our feet for a stroll through the historic centre. Leaving Piazza dei Miracoli behind (to use its Italian name, as shown on maps), we head down Via Santa Maria with its stately palazzi, restaurants, souvenir shops and stalls, reaching Piazza Cavallotti and Via dei Mille. This street leads to Piazza dei Cavalieri, where we can see the statue of Cosimo I de’ Medici and the monumental Palazzo della Carovana. Cross the piazza towards the Church of S. Stefano dei Cavalieri and follow Via Ulisse Dini: this crosses Via Borgo Stretto, Pisa’s most bustling street, with its porticoes and the resplendent façade of the Church of San Michele in Borgo wedged into its neighbouring buildings.

Once in Piazza Garibaldi, we find the Ponte di Mezzo (Middle Bridge) before us and the Lungarno Mediceo: on this embankment rise the Palazzo Medici and the Museo Nazionale di S. Matteo. To the back of Garibaldi’s statue are the Casino dei Nobili and the narrow Via Notari, which we follow to the characterful Piazza delle Vettovaglie: since time immemorial home of the fresh produce market, it is now the hub of Pisa’s nightlife. Crossing the Ponte di Mezzo, on the opposite embankment we have the Logge di Banchi porticoes, in the shadow of the Clock Tower. Bear right along the Lungarno Gambacorti and first up comes Palazzo Blu, an arts centre; then, as if by magic, the fairytale Church of Santa Maria della Spina.

Back over the Arno across Ponte Solferino, we turn right into Lungarno Antonio Pacinotti and find the Museo Nazionale di Palazzo Reale; shortly before that is Via Santa Maria, which takes us back to Piazza dei Miracoli.

To include Keith Haring’s mural in the visit, from Logge di Banchi on the southern embankment walk down Corso Italia – Pisa’s main shopping drag – as far as Piazza Vittorio Emanuele. To the right of the square is the Church of Sant’Antonio Abate and next to it the Rectory. Across the wall along Via Riccardo Zandonai (which is pedestrianised) we find Tuttomondo. From here, the quickest way back over Ponte Solferino is down Via Francesco Crispi.

PISA

A STROLL THROUGH PISA

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PISA

EVENTS , 25 March: Pisan New Year. As in Florence, the civil year would start on 25 March, the day of the Annunciation in the Catholic calendar. The festival has long been at the heart of the city’s official celebrations, with many events including concerts, exhibitions and fireworks along the Arno. , 16 and 17 June: Luminara and Palio of Ranieri, celebrating the patron saint of Pisa, Rainerius. On the night of the 16th, by tradition, the buildings along the Arno and the Tower itself are illuminated (hence the name) by 100,000 lights. Followed on the 17th by a historic pageant and regatta: Pisa’s four ancient districts (San Francesco, San Martino, Santa Maria, Sant’Antonio) row it out on the waves. , Last Saturday in June: Gioco del Ponte. The Game on the Bridge – a historic free-for-all more than an amicable romp – is re-enacted across the Middle Bridge. www.giocodelpontedipisa.it , Every 4 years in Pisa, early summer: Regatta of the Ancient Maritime Republics. A feast of pageantry for an ‘international’ boat race that has been going strong for decades. Amalfi, Genoa, Pisa and Venice throw the challenge, taking turns to host the event. Last held in Pisa in 2017.

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From Piazza dei Miracoli we start our ride by traversing the northern part of the Pisan Plain, bordered to the east by Monte Pisano and north by the lower foothills of the Apuan Alps.

At Pontasserchio we have the option of two itineraries. The main one is shorter and totally flat, as it follows the Serchio River bikeway. The alternative is longer and slightly ondulating, reaching as far as Lake Massaciuccoli in the Chiarone Nature Reserve.

The two itineraries rejoin near Ripafratta, at the border of the Pisa and Lucca provinces, and continue along the Serchio bikeway right up to the bastions of Lucca’s mighty walls.

1 MIGLIARINO, SAN ROSSORE, MASSACIUCCOLI NATURE PARK

The reserve was established by the Tuscan Regional Council in 1979 across an area of 23,000 hectares along the coastlines of the Pisa and Lucca provinces – a green, undeveloped sanctuary.

Ever since the Bronze Age, the neighbouring lagoons and marshland have been gradually formed by the silt carried by the

FROM PISA TO FLORENCE

From Pisa to Lucca

Ma r L ig ure

Fiu m

Torre del Lago Puccini

6

Parco Naturale Migliarino San Rossore Massaciuccoli

1

Migliarino

Lago di Massaciuccoli

5

Pisa

2

Madonna dell’Acqua

Ponte d’Oro

Arena- Sant’Andrea Metato in Pescaiola

Gello

3

Colignola

Asciano

Calci 0

Tiricella Villa

Vorno

Gabella

Agnano

San Lorenzo a Vaccoli

A 11

N

Ruota

Sant’Andrea di Compito

5 km

Buti

Colle di Compito

San Leonardo in Treponzio

Carraia

Capannori

Lunata

Santa Margherita

Guamo Massa Macinaia

Badia di Cantignano

Verciano

Lucca

Fi u m e Sérc hio

Santa Maria del Giuduce

San Giuliano Terme

Pontasserchio

Rigoli

Le Maggiola

4

Molina di Quosa

Ripafratta

7

Meati Cerasomma

Santa Maria a Colle

Avane

Filettole

Vecchiano

1

San Macario in Piano

Nozzano Castello

Castiglioncello

Massaciuccoli

Al Sasso

Bozzano

A1

Viareggio

e

hio rc é S

A 12

A 12

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Serchio and, especially, the Arno; this has led to the creation of some distinct natural environments, including beaches, dunes, forests and wetlands.

The areas recognised at European level as being of outstanding conservational importance are: the lake and marshes of Massaciuccoli, the shoreline dunes of Torre del Lago, the Luccan maquis and Pisan woodland.

This diversity of habitat provides for a rich variety of flora and fauna. The wetlands are home to both domestic and migratory birds, such as mallard, osprey, purple heron, cormorant and greater egret. The most common mammals include fallow deer, boar, wild rabbit, dormouse and red fox.

Within the park’s agricultural area are some estates and farms dating to the XV-XVI centuries – that is, subsequent to the fall of the Pisan Republic, when the influential families from Florence (first and foremost the Medici) appropriated these lands.

The maritime area of Secche della Meloria (Meloria Shallows), historically famous for the naval battle in which Genoa defeated Pisa, also forms part of the nature park and covers 9,000 hectares of protected seabed.

Head Office at Tenuta di San Rossore Località Cascine Vecchie, Pisa Tel. 050 539111 www.parcosanrossore.org

THE ‘CAMELS’ OF SAN ROSSORE In 1622 Ferdinando II de’ Medici had a dromedary brought to the San Rossore estate, convinced that it would adapt readily to the area’s mild climate. The experiment paid off and more were introduced from Africa. The ‘camels’ – so the Pisans had baptised them – were soon employed as beasts of burden on the land; by the end of the XVIII century the breeding farm – the only of its kind in Europe – numbered some 200 head of stock. During WW2 the dromedaries were decimated to feed the Mongolian troops fighting with the German

army, and the last remaining one survived into the Sixties. In 2014 three dromedaries were reintroduced from various parks and reserves in Italy, with the purpose of repopulating the estate.

FROM PISA TO FLORENCE

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2 SANCTUARY OF THE MADONNA OF THE WATER

The church rises on the right bank of the Morto River. While the outer surface is of bare brick, the internal walls are decorated with stucco, gilding and a frescoed cycle of images from the XVIII century illustrating the life of Mary. The most prized treasure, however, is an effigy of the Madonna in maiolica (fine earthenware) reputed to be miraculous. During the 1642 floods, the sacred image – which at the time stood outdoors – fell into the river with the collapse of a bridge. At that very moment the Virgin Mary is said to have appeared in the dreams of some local peasant women, announcing that the rains would subside if someone were to salvage the icon from the waters and place it somewhere safe. As soon as the voice spread the locals and the authorities got to work. When the image was recovered, it was bone-dry and the rains stopped. In 1647, in gratitude for the miraculous deed, the Rivers and Ditches Authority built this sanctuary which, in the course of the years, has drawn large numbers of pilgrims from the neighbouring countryside.

15 Via Pietrasantina e Martraverso Madonna dell’Acqua Tel. 050 894003

3 SAN GIULIANO SPA

Discoveries brought to light in the area of this thermal spa town suggest a human presence as early as the Stone Age; the first historical evidence, however, comes with Pliny the Elder, who mentions a locality called Aquae Pisanae in his Natural History.

In the I century AD the Romans built an 11-km aqueduct to feed the thermal water of Caldaccoli as far as the public baths of Pisa, known today as Nero’s Baths.

Placed in a strategic position for controlling the Pisa-Lucca pass on Mount Pisano, San Giuliano has often been a theatre of war between the two cities. In the times of the Medici a major project was launched to exploit the thermal waters, but with scant success. It was only after the accession of the Lorraines in the XVIII century, that San Giuliano became a proper spa town and holiday destination. In the XIX century it would become part of the Grand Tour itinerary, visited by a galaxy of illustrious names, among them Lord Byron and Percy Shelley. www.sangiulianointoscana.it

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The range, marked to the north by the Serchio River and south by the Arno, rises between the provinces of Pisa and Lucca; its peaks are moderate, the highest being Mount Serra at 917 m.

On the Pisan side, being close to the sea, the lower landscape consists of olive groves and vineyards, cultivated in alternating terraces; the upper reaches are carpeted in woodland of chestnut and oak.

The area has been renowned since antiquity for its abundance of spring and thermal waters. Today, the two most important spa centres are San Giuliano Terme and Terme di Uliveto.

On the foothills of Mount Pisano, 10 km from Pisa, rises the ancient Charterhouse of Calci, home to the Museum of Natural History of Pisa University. www.montipisani.com

THE SWEET-TOOTHED FOOLISH PILGRIM A classic local, torta co’ bischeri is at its most moreish in Pontasserchio and traditionally baked on the feast of the Most Holy Cross of Miracles, to welcome famished pilgrims. Bischero means fool or wooden peg and, although the official explanation is that bischeri simply refers to the waves in the

tart’s crust, the word in its dialectal form quickly takes on colourful innuendoes. The Luccan variety is torta co’ becchi, or Cake with beaks. The shortcrust pastry is covered in a mixture of boiled rice, egg, dark chocolate, cocoa, raisins, pinenuts and candied fruit.

FROM PISA TO FLORENCE

MOUNT PISANO

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4 RIVER SERCHIO

At 111 km, the Serchio is the third longest waterway in Tuscany after the Arno and Ombrone. It finds its source in the TuscanEmilian Apennines and flows into the Tyrrhenian Sea, near Viareggio. Its course leads through the Garfagnana Valley – nestled between the Apennines and Apuan Alps – then into the Plain of Lucca, through Ripafratta Gorge and finally into the Plain of Pisa. Lucca Province Council has recently established the Serchio River Park to safeguard its habitats and endemic flora and fauna. The riverine reserve is home to over 150 species of birds, including varieties of heron and the kingfisher.

5 MASSACIUCCOLI

Lake Massaciuccoli and its marshlands provide – with their 2000 square kilometers – the most extensive wetlands in Tuscany. Once a brakish marsh, it is now considered a freshwater lake/pond, under 2 m in average depth and with a perimeter of 10 km. The basin’s surface has been sharply reduced in recent centuries through land reclamation; industrial pollution in more modern times has also impacted on the eco-system.

The visitor centre (Centro Visite dell’Oasi della Riserva Naturale del Chiarone) houses the Ecology Museum and leads into a nature trail through the marshes, along boardwalks. Birding enthusiasts can look forward to spotting some of the 260 species that have been recorded here and are now protected.

Lapped by the waters is the tiny village that lends the lake its name, Massaciuccoli, proud of its Roman pedigree. Near the church, in 1931, the remains of a building were discovered: a villa from the I century AD, which is still being unearthed. They include mosaics from the second half of the century, decorated with a water-themed design.

Oasis of Massaciuccoli 6 Via del Porto Tel. 0584 975567 Open daily 9am-6pm Admission free www.oasilipumassaciuccoli.org

Massaciuccoli Roman Archaeological Site Via Pietra a Padule Tel. 0584 974550 Opening times: variable. Sundays: 10am-1pm and 3-6pm.

Closed Monday Admission free

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6 PUCCINI’S TORRE DEL LAGO

Across the lake from Massaciuccoli rises Torre del Lago, made famous by one of Italian opera’s legendary names. In 1891 Giacomo Puccini spent a summer holiday with his family in the villa of the Dukes of Austria: this would become his refuge. Torre del Lago provided Puccini with the ideal space in which to find musical inspiration and enjoy his shooting. La Bohème, Tosca and Madama Butterfly, among other masterpieces, were crafted here.

In 1898 he bought the villa, and had it demolished and rebuilt according to his own personal design. The opening of a peat extraction plant in 1919 forced Puccini to leave Torre del Lago.

To this day, the villa belongs to his family and now includes a dedicated museum. The Puccini Festival at Torre del Lago is an annual open-air event, presenting the composer’s works on the shores of Lake Massaciuccoli.

Villa Museo Giacomo Puccini 266 Viale G. Puccini, Torre del Lago - Tel. 0584 341445 www.giacomopuccini.it

7 RIPAFRATTA

Originally no more than a customs outpost on the Pisa/Lucca border, the hamlet soon became highly desirable as a strategic

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spot: it clings to the slopes of the Serchio Gorge, enclosed between Mount Pisano and the Apuan Alps. The fort, perched on the slopes above the village and now reduced to a tower, dates to 1162. In the course of the centuries the stronghold was repeatedly fought over by the Pisans and Luccans, until eventually held by the Florentines; it was abandoned altogether in the XVII century. The ruins are now privately owned.

VERSILIA Versilia is the riviera that stretches between the Ligurian Sea and the Apuan Alps, within the province of Lucca. It was once traversed by the Versilia River, before this was artificially rerouted. A fashionable seaside resort since time immemorial with its broad sandy beaches, Versilia is now especially popular for its youthful movida – or nightlife.

Forte dei Marmi, Pietrasanta, Camaiore and Viareggio come tops; Viareggio is synonymous with its annual carnival, with hundreds of thousands of visitors from around the world flocking to enjoy the floats and fireworks.

Versilia Tourism Tel: 0584 617766 www.versiliainfo.com

EATING AND DRINKING

BAR PASTICCERIA ARTIGIANA DOLCI 114 Via V. Veneto, Pontasserchio Tel. 050 860707 Open daily. Closed Monday www.artigianadolci.it A fine place to try the traditional torta co’ bischeri at its most authentic. Plenty of other pastries to please the sweet-toothed cyclist.

OSTERIA LE TERME 3241 Via Pietra a Padule Tel. 329 7317002 www.letermemassaciuccoli.it Local cuisine rules (tortelli lucchesi, spaghetti alla viareggina), along with other Tuscan classics (spaghetti allo

scoglio/seafood spaghetti, zuppetta di cozze/soup of mussels, calamari su crema di ceci/calamari in chickpea cream), plus cured meats and cheeses. An eclectic wine list, local and foreign.

FATTORIA URBANA RIVA DEGLI ALBOGATTI Via della Scogliera, Nave Tel. 366 1758719 www.fattoriaurbana.it An honest selection of favourites, home-grown produce and plenty of vegetarian options at this ‘urban farm’. Open every day from 1 April to 30 October.

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After our farewells to Lucca’s tree-topped tower, we follow the Serchio River for a few kilometers and continue eastwards at the feet of the Pizzorne Plateau. Riding along quiet country roads, we come upon the patrician villas of Lucchesia’s lush hills.

On the border of the Provinces of Lucca and Pistoia we reach – with just a little extra effort – Collodi and the magical world of Pinocchio, as well as the majestic gardens of Villa Garzoni.

We then cross the Pescia Torrent near the medieval village that bears its name and descend into the Valdinievole Valley. And finally: the famous spa town of Montecatini.

1 VILLA OLIVA

Commissioned by the Buonvisi, an ancient family of merchant bankers from Lucca, the villa was built in the late XV and early XVI centuries. It was designed by the architect and sculptor Matteo Civitali, who learned his craft at Lorenzo de’ Medici’s school in Florence, and reflects the Renaissance fascination with classical harmony and measured embellishment.

Villa Oliva’s park extends across five hectares, showcasing arboreal creations and a range of fountains and sculptures. Only the park is open to the public.

2034 Via delle Ville, San Pancrazio di Lucca Tel. 330 446252 Opening times: 15 March to 5 November daily 9.30am-12.30pm and 2-6pm Admission: € 6 www.villaoliva.it 2 VILLA GRABAU

The Grabau has undergone numerous alterations since its construction in 1412. Another powerful family of Luccan merchant bankers, the Diodati, acquired it in the XVI century and gave it its Renaissance backbone; successive owners in the XVII and XIX centuries had the villa significantly modified into its current neoclassical style. The park measures nine hectares and divides into several gardens. Both villa and park are open to the pubblic

FROM PISA TO FLORENCE

From Lucca to Montecatini

Aquilea

A 11

Carraia

Pieve San Paolo

Capannori

Lunata

4

5

Fratina

Segromigno in Piano

San Colombano

Marlia

Pizzorne

Segromigno in Monte

Matraia

Lammari

3

Ciciana

Santa Margherita

San Pietro a Vico

Saltocchio 1 2

Ponte a Moriano

Vinchiana

Verciano

Lucca

Monte San Quirico

Mutigliano

Mastiano

Domazzano

Veneri

6 Collodi

Montecarlo

Mencarini

Badia Pozzeveri

Turchetto

Porcari

Palazzo Rosso

Lappato

Petrognano

Villa Basilica

Altopascio

Chiesina Uzzanese

Molin Nuovo San Salvatore Chiesanuova

1 A1

Albinatico

N 2,5 km

Gallo Biscolla

Anchione

0

e

Montecatini

Ponte Buggianese

Borgo a Buggiano

Torricchio 8 Macchie di Forone San Piero

Marginone

Vangile

Le Molina

Massa e Cozzile

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– the park can be freely explored with a map; a guide shows you around the house.

269 Via di Matraia, San Pancrazio di Lucca Tel. 0583 406098 Opening times: variable. Closed on Mondays Admission Park € 5, Park and Villa € 7 www.villagrabau.it

2 Via Fraga Alta, Marlia Tel. 0583 30108 Opening times: March to October daily 10am-6pm Admission: € 8 www.parcovillareale.it

FROM PISA TO FLORENCE

3 VILLA REALE

One of the most famous villas in the district, its foundations dating to the Middle Ages, when a small fort rose here, home of the Duke of Tuscia. The property passed through several noble families from Lucca, until both the villa and the park were acquired by Elisa Baciocchi Bonaparte, sister of Napoleon and Queen of Etruria. Elisa gave it its current name and embarked on a major restructuring programme, giving the palazzo its present-day neoclassical guise, and the magnificent gardens their English design. The grounds cover 16 hectares and include a number of structures added in the course of the centuries. Among the attractions in the park are the Water Theatre and Greenery Theatre, where the violinist Niccolò Paganini exhibited his virtuoso skills to Elisa’s court on a number of occasions.

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4 VILLA MANSI

This elegant villa was built in the XVI century, and in the 1600s came under the ownership of the Mansis – a family of silk merchants. They had the façades restructured, the gardens redesigned and the interiors enriched with numerous frescoes.

By the legend – as many a Luccan will tell you – this is also the spiritual home of Lucida, the ghost: the strikingly beautiful bride of Gasparre Mansi struck a deal with the Devil, in exchange for another 30 years of beauty. When her time was up, he kidnapped her in a carriage of fire, and upon reaching Lucca tossed her into the pond of the botanical gardens. Only the park is open to visitors.

259 Via delle Selvette, Segromigno in Monte Tel. 0583 920234 Opening times: Monday to Friday 9am-4.30pm.

Saturday and Sunday closed Admission: € 5 www.villeepalazzilucchesi.it 5 VILLA TORRIGIANI

The villa at Camigliano is one of the most luxurious and theatrical houses of Lucca’s aristocracy, and among the finest examples of Tuscan Baroque architecture. In 1636 it was sold by the titled Buonvisi family to the Marquis Nicolao Santini, the Republic of Lucca’s ambassador to the court of Louis XIV (The

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Sun King): the diplomat’s dream was nothing less than to transform it into a small Versailles. A majestic alley of cypress trees leads to the Baroque front, richly embellished with statues and ornaments. The halls are decorated with the original furnishings and frescoes. The park has undergone numerous alterations as design fashions changed over the years, preserving features from each century: alongside the geometry and perspective of the XVII-century French garden, for example, lies the English garden, from the Romantic period, which alternates natural elements with the artificial. Among the illustrious guests hosted at Villa Torrigiani: Presidents Pompidou and Giscard D’Estaing of France and Elizabeth, the Queen Mother.

3 Val del Gomberaio, Camigliano Tel. 0583 928041 - Mob. 349 6206847 Opening times: April to October daily 9am-1pm and 3pm till sunset Admission Park € 7, Park and Villa € 12 www.villeepalazzilucchesi.it

LUCCHESIA’S ANCIENT CAMELIAS A shrub from the Theaceae family originating from the tropical zones of Asia, the camelia was brought to Italy towards the end of the XIX century. By virtue of its adaptability, evergreen foliage and spectacular flowering, it became popular as an ornamental plant and, by the mid-1800s, hugely fashionable in

the villas of Lucchesia. The oldest surviving samples are considered monumental plants. At Sant’Andrea di Compito, in the Province of Lucca, we find the Camillietum Compitese, a public garden with some 1000 camelias, cultivated to preserve the original stock. www.camellietumcompitese.it

FROM PISA TO FLORENCE

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6 COLLODI

The hamlet’s history is fused with the Garzoni family, who involved Collodi with the battles against Florentine expansion into the Valdinievole.

In the old part of the village, on the left bank of the Pescia Minore Torrent, looms the rock with its rural church (Pieve di San Bartolomeo). It dominates the valley below, where rustic dwellings cluster in the shadow of the imposing Villa Garzoni, one of the largest palazzos of Lucchesia.

Commissioned by Romano Garzoni in the XVII century, it rises to four floors above the ruins of a medieval castle. A majestic staircase connects the palace with the Italianate garden: a blend of Renaissance harmony and Baroque flamboyance, it features the Collodi Butterfly House, with over 1000 samples from all over the world.

But the most famous local character of all is, of course, master Geppetto’s Pinocchio – their author, Carlo Lorenzini, better known as Collodi. On the opposite bank is where we find the Pinocchio Monumental Park. Inaugurated in 1956, it recreates the magical world of our wooden puppet and his cast of characters: Geppetto, the Fairy with Turquoise Hair, the Talking Cricket... and a towering Pinocchio to greet you – at 16 metres, the tallest in the world (with, arguably, the longest nose).

Collodi Tourist Office Via delle Cartiere Tel. 0572 429660 Opening times: variable

Garzoni Gardens and Collodi Butterfly House 3 Piazza della Vittoria Tel. 0572 427314 Open daily from 9 till sunset

Pinocchio Park 3 Via di S. Gennaro Tel. 0572 429342 Open daily from 9 till sunset Admission: Pinocchio Park € 13; Garzoni Gardens and Collodi Butterfly House € 13; combined ticket € 22 www.pinocchio.it

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CARLO LORENZINI, AKA COLLODI

Antoine de Saint-Exupéry’s The Little Prince.

Once upon a time there was a piece of wood...

Pinocchio’s story has inspired artists of all genres across the globe, not least film-makers – the earliest silent movie, Pinocchio by Guido Antamoro, was produced in Italy in 1911. The most famous incarnation of all is probably Walt Disney’s 1940 cartoon, winner of two Oscars. It was serialised for television by Luigi Comencini in 1972 with success, while Roberto Benigni directed and starred in his own Pinocchio in 2000.

LITTLE SWITZERLAND Svizzera Pesciatina – or Pescian Switzerland – is a cluster of ten medieval hamlets clinging onto the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines. It is reached by following the Pescia Torrent upstream, north of the town.

Also known as the ‘Ten Castles’, the hamlets are Pietrabuona, Medicina, Fibbialla, Aramo, Sorana, Vellano, San Quirico, Castelvecchio, Stiappa and Pontito. They are all south-

facing and defended by walls (largely ruined) and, in each case, a watchtower.

The district is also synonymous with the Sorana Bean – Fagiolo di Sorana: small and pearly, with a thin skin. It is cultivated in an area of 660 hectares, along the Pescia, and has an EU-Protected Designation of Origin. www.fagiolodisorana.org

FROM PISA TO FLORENCE

Pinocchio’s creator was born in Florence in 1826 into a humble family: his father was a gardener, his mother a maid in the Garzoni household. A journalist in his early career, he would sign himself as Collodi, the village where his mother came from and where Carlo spent much of his childhood; only in his latter years did he turn his attention to children’s writing. His masterpiece, The Adventures of Pinocchio, was published in 1883 and was an instant hit. Rated as one of the greatest works in Italian literature and appearing in 240 languages, it is the second most translated book in the world after

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7 PESCIA

The citadel was contended by Lucca and Florence for many years until it finally fell to the latter in 1339; its destiny thereafter would follow the course of Florentine history.

As Pescia became the main settlement within the Valdinievole, its growth focused on two areas: Piazza Grande, on the right bank of the torrent that shares the citadel’s name; and the Cathedral on the left bank – respectively the administrative and commercial centre, and the religious centre.

At the far end of the long and narrow piazza stands the medieval Palazzo del Vicario, now the town hall, and its Tower. Across the Ponte del Duomo bridge is the Cathedral, dedicated to the Assumption of St Mary and St John the Baptist; although its origins probably date back to the V-VI centuries, it was completely rebuilt in 1684. Following the torrent along the left bank we come across the Church of St Francis of Assisi, where we find St Francis and Stories of his Life by Bonaventura Berlinghieri,

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a tempera on wood altarpiece from 1235, considered to be the earliest depiction of the saint.

Since the 1930s, the town’s economy has thrived on floriculture, with Pescia’s flower market a photographer’s dream.

8 VILLA BELLAVISTA

An imposing edifice rising from an elevated terrace with commanding views. In 1673 the Grand Duke Cosimo III de’ Medici sold the estate to a wealthy trader, Francesco Feroni who, after gaining the title of marquis, was determined to build a house that would impress: its rectangular plan sports a bright Tuscan Baroque, with towers at its four corners for added drama. The villa is equally ostentatious inside with its frescoes and embellishments; particularly striking is the central hall’s fresco, The Triumph of Faith by Pietro Dandini, which depicts the Battle of Vienna against the Ottomans. The villa is now home to the Regional Museum of Firefighting.

28 Via Bellavista, Buggiano Tel. 0572 32026 Open for group visits only – by prior arrangement villabellavistaita.wordpress.com

MUSEUMS Museums of Pescia Hespedarium – Citrus Fruit Garden.

Unique of its kind and internationally renowned, it presents 200 different varieties from all continents.

55 Via del Tiro a Segno, Castellare di Pescia Tel. 0572 429191 Opening times: variable Admission: € 4 www.giardinodegliagrumi.it Gipsoteca Libero Andreotti Permanent exhibition of plaster sculptures by local artist Andreotti.

Piazza del Palagio 7, Pescia Tel. 0572 490057 Opening times: variable.

Closed on Mondays Admission free Bonsai Museum Private collection from across the world.

159 Via Lucchese, Pescia Tel. 0572 429262 Opening times: Mon-Sat 8am-1pm and 2.30-7pm Admission free www.franchi-bonsai.it

FROM PISA TO FLORENCE

Pescia Tourist Office, 2 Via F.lli Rosselli Tel. 0572 490919 - Opening times: variable www.comune.pescia.pt.it

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Eating and drinking

FROM PISA TO FLORENCE

Cioncia. Pronounced ‘choncha’, the recipe derives from the days of hide tanning in Pescia, which was practised until the early 1900s: the tanners would set aside any leftover meat from the hide for a poor man’s dish called cioncia. Tomato passata, onion, the ubiquitous extra virgin olive oil, red wine and ginger would all add to the formula.

EATING AND DRINKING OSTERIA CANAPINO 96 Via del Giardinetto, San Colombano, Tel. 0583 306407 Open daily except Tuesday www.osteriacanapino.it Classic Luccan and Tuscan fare, enjoyed in the ambience of an antica trattoria.

RISTORANTE VILLA GARZONI 1 Piazza della Vittoria, Collodi Tel. 0572 42 85 45, Open daily www.ristorantevillagarzoni.it Traditional Cucina Toscana in the

gardens of Villa Garzoni. The bar/ cafeteria on the ground floor serves a snappy lunch.

RISTORANTE PIZZERIA DAL PUCCI 4 Via Amendola, Pescia Tel. 0572 476176 Open daily except Thursday www.ristorantepucci.com In the historic centre of Pescia. The Menù degustazione lets you sample a range of meat and fish dishes and pizzas.

EVENTS , First Sunday in September: Palio dei Rioni. The neighbourhoods (rioni) of Pescia fight it out with bows and arrows. www.paliocittadipescia.it , Month of May: Happy birthday, Pinocchio! Come and join in the party in Collodi. www.pinocchio.it

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The marshlands over which Montecatini rises today were drained in the XVIII century under the direction of Peter Leopold I of Habsburg-Loraine, Grand Duke of Tuscany, in order to put to good use the thermal waters.

But it was only during the Belle Époque that the Baths of Montecatini, as the town was then known, came into their own – not just by virtue of their spas, but also as a recreational resort with theatres and other alla moda establishments frequented by artists, intellectuals and aristocrats. The main avenue and playhouse bear the name of the celebrity who probably outshone the rest: Giuseppe Verdi.

Art Nouveau (Stile Liberty, in Italian) reigns supreme here, and a walk through town immerses you into the carefree, elegant and ‘modern’ ambience of bygone years that have made Montecatini one of the most cherished spa destinations in Italy.

TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE OF MONTECATINI Located at 46 Viale Giuseppe Verdi. Tel. 0572 772244 www.montecatiniturismo.it (also in English) Opening times: Monday-Friday 9am-1pm and 3-6pm, Saturday 9am-1pm.

Closed Sunday CIP – CITY INFO POINT Located at Piazza del Popolo - Daily (times variable). Closed Monday

M O N T E C AT I N I T E R M E

Montecatini Terme

Montecatini Terme Tourist Office

Restaurants and pubs

Monuments and

16 Bargilli

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M O N T E C AT I N I T E R M E

History of the city As with the other settlements that took root around the unsalubrious Fucecchio Marshes, the original nucleus of Montecatini was established on higher ground: the hill overlooking the thermal springs.

Around the year 1000 the medieval burg was guarded by two forts, a wall and, within these, 25 towers.

In 1315 Montecatini was the theatre of a famous battle that saw the Guelphs of Florence clash with the Ghibellines of Pisa and Lucca, led by Uguccione della Faggiola. The latter carried the day and the castle was sacked and expunged.

After returning into the fold of the Florentines (and, in the course of time, the Medici), in 1554 Montecatini fell unopposed to Siena – its troops commanded by Piero Strozzi, a mercenary condottiere at the service of the King of France. The captured castle soon came under siege again, this time under the sword of Cosimo I de’ Medici who, outraged by so compliant a betrayal, ordered that Montecatini be razed to the ground. Little was spared: the palazzos of the Podestà (Chief Magistrate) and of Justice, three convents and 160 dwellings.

The presence of thermal waters in the marshlands at the foot of the hill had already been recorded in antiquity, though not exploited until the XIV century when the Florentine Republic decided to build the first bathing facilities. In 1417 the physician Ugolino Simoni da Montecatini wrote the first treatise on the properties of these mineral waters, which many peasants already resorted to as a cure for aching joints.

The advent of the Lorraine to the Grand Duchy and the arrival of foreign entrepreneurs initiated the drainage and canalisation of the entire Fucecchio Marshes area. The late 1700s contributed the first proper spa establishments, by order of the aforementioned Peter Leopold I: the Royal Baths (Bagno Regio), and the Leopoldine and Tettuccio Spas.

MONTECATINI ON THE INTERNET WWW.TOMONTECATINI.COM Official homepage of the town councils of Montecatini Terme and the Valdinievole Valley: itineraries, culture, nature, food and wine. Free official app for mApp mobile devices. Available in English.

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The best in brief 1 PIAZZA DEL POPOLO

This large pedestrianised piazza ushers us into three main streets: Corso Roma, which leads to Pescia; Corso Giacomo Matteotti, leading to Monsummano Terme; and Viale Giuseppe Verdi, which serves the Parco Termale (Spa Gardens) and the funicular up to Montecatini Alto. At the southern end of the piazza we find the Basilica of Saint Mary of the Assumption, built in the 1950s. The other end is dominated by the Grand Hotel Plaza and Locanda Maggiore: elegant and venerable, this is where Verdi would frequently stay between 1882 and 1900.

VIALE GIUSEPPE VERDI

Montecatini’s main drag is where we can admire its most resplendent Art Nouveau buildings – glitziest of all the historic Caffé Gambrinus, beloved by salon society of yore and the venue for countless cultural events.

M O N T E C AT I N I T E R M E

The spa town enjoyed its Golden Age astride the late 1800s and the early decades of the 1900s, with urban development and a booming local economy reflecting the growth in tourism. The funicular was inaugurated in 1898: still in operation, it connects the castle with the spas.

The Comune of Bagni di Montecatini was established in 1905, its name subsequently changing to Montecatini Terme.

Leaving the pedestrian zone, we come to the civic 2 PALAZZO COMUNALE, its interiors richly ornamented in gesso (an amalgam of chalk, gypsum and pigment). The local museum of contemporary art (MO.C.A,) has been housed here since 2012 and includes Joan Miró’s Woman Wrapped in Bird Flight, bequeathed to Montecatini in 1980. A short distance ahead, at the crossing with Via Alessandro Manzoni, is the tourist office.

Opposite the Palazzo Comunale is the Palazzina Regia, gateway into the spa gardens: once the summer residence of the Grand Dukes, it now houses the spa offices. A little further on, near the entrance to the Teatro Verdi, is the distinctive 3 PADIGLIONCINO TAMERICI, the only Art Nouveau building in town sporting a floral design. This ‘Little Pavilion’ was used for the storage and distribution of salts brought in from the Tamerici springs. The four bas-reliefs on its pillars (in grès ceramic stoneware) depict the different stages of ceramic production with: the artist, the lathe turner, the decorator and the kiln worker.

Further up along the path are the famous Tettuccio Spas, and behind them the funicular.

MO.C.A. www.mocamontecatini.it 46 Viale Giuseppe Verdi Tel. 0572 918299 - Mob. 366 7529702 Opening times: Tue-Sun 10am-12pm; Sat-Sun also 4-7pm.

Closed Monday Admission free

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A leading Italian Stile Liberty artist, Chini initially worked as a restorer but quickly established himself as a painter, art decorator and, with his polyhedric figures, a ceramic artist.

In 1896 he founded the Arte della Ceramica workshop in Florence, winning awards at international events, including Brussels, St Petersburg and St Louis. As a painter he was commissioned by the Venice Biennale on several occasions – among his contributions, the celebrated cycle of canvasses entitled La Primavera (Spring). Another notable commission came from Bangkok: the decoration of the Hall of the Throne at the Royal Palace, for

Rama V (1911-14).

Decorations by Chini and his workshop can be found in several of Montecatini’s historic buildings such as the Palazzo Comunale, the Grand Hotel & La Pace, and the Tamerici and Tettuccio Spas. Some works by Galileo Chini, among them the Primavera classica canvas, are conserved by the Fondazione del Credito Valdinievole and loaned out for temporary exhibitions.

Fondazione del Credito Valdinievole 16 Via Ugo Foscolo Tel. 0572 909144 fondazionecreditovaldinievole.it

SPA GARDENS

At the start of the main path that runs through the Parco delle Terme come the 4 TERME EXCELSIOR, at one time a Caffè Concerto and Casino, later transformed into a centre for curative drinking waters and wellness. Continuing along, we reach the 5 TERME LEOPOLDINE: dating back to the XIX century, the complex is currently being redesigned by acclaimed architect Massimiliano Fuksas. At the centre of the park, enclosed by a wall, are the 6 TERME TAMERICI, whose spring was discovered in 1843. Revamped in 1909, the building is finely decorated with ceramics from the Galileo Chini workshop; it now serves as a venue for events.

At the far end of the park stands the very symbol of Montecatini: 7 TERME TETTUCCIO, celebrated as ‘Europe’s shrine of spa wellness’. The monumental dimensions of this edifice belie its name: Tettuccio translates as ‘Little Roof’, referring to the shelter that covered the original spring. This 1779 building was restructured in the 1920s by the Florentine architect Ugo Giovannozzi, with a fascist-era nod to the thermal spas of ancient Rome.

M O N T E C AT I N I T E R M E

GALILEO CHINI

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The rich decoration of the halls includes numerous frescoes, while the English garden is alive with fountains dotted around the secular trees and flaunts a wealth of architectural features.

The focal point of this imposing building, however, is the spring water itself, which gurgles into a shell-shaped fount and a round pool.

Next to the Tettuccio is another edifice from the same period, the 8 TERME REGINA, their spring discovered in 1855. On the western side of the Gardens rise the 9 TERME TORRETTA, with their unmistakable crenellated tower (currently under restoration).

In town we also find the recently restructured 10 TERME LA SALUTE; and the 11 TERME REDI, both their pools fed by the Leopoldina spring.

SPRINGS AND THERMAL THERAPIES

Montecatini’s four springs are fed by an aquifer 60-80 metres below ground. The mineral-rich water finds its way up through a natural filtration of limestone and clay, and surfaces clear of bacterial impurities, ready to be drunk.

The waters here are particularly high in chlorides, sodium sulphate and magnesium sulphate. They are graded by strength: Acque forti (Strong: Leopoldina spring), Acque medie (Medium: Regina spring), Acque deboli (Light: Rinfresco and Tettuccio springs). Montecatini’s waters are beneficial in a number of ways – particularly for the liver, kidneys and digestive system; but

also for the airways, circulatory system, skeleton and joints, skin diseases and stress.

Regina, Rinfresco and Tettuccio waters are all used in therapy based on drinking thermal waters (terapia idropinica), as indicated by the local specialists. It is practised at Terme Tettuccio and Terme Excelsior.

Leopoldina water too is suitable for drinking therapy, as well as – at Terme Redi – for inhalation therapy, balneotherapy (bathing), mud bath therapy and thermal rehab. www.termemontecatini.it Tel. 0572 7781

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13 VILLA FORINI LIPPI

A short distance from Piazza del Popolo is the XIX-century villa, within its 2-hectare secular park that was once the summer residence of a rich Florentine family. During WW2 it was converted into an orphanage and run by Don Giulio Facibeni and his charitable institution, remembered for giving shelter to – among others – some Jewish children. It now houses the civic library.

Located at 41 Via Provinciale Lucchese 14 MONTECATINI ALTO

The historic centre proper of Montecatini is up on a hill 290 metres a.s.l. and can be reached by car, funicular or, along an ancient path, by foot.

M O N T E C AT I N I T E R M E

12 KURSAAL

Where Corso Roma and Viale IV Novembre cross, Montecatini still sports the original façade of the Kursaal, emblem of its heyday as a top recreational resort. Built in the early XX century, the complex housed within its 60,000 square metres a large theatre, casino, café, concert hall and numerous shops. After the Second World War the structure was demolished, rebuilt and extended to include a 1320-seat cinema/theatre. The Kursaal is now a residential complex.

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In spite of the destruction ordered by Cosimo I de’ Medici in 1554, the village has preserved its medieval character; it also affords panoramic views across the Valdinievole.

A short walk from the funicular station is Piazza Giuseppe Giusti and, in amongst the cluster of restaurants, one of the six surviving towers – the birthplace of Ugolino da Montecatini, considered the Father of Medical Hydrology. The piazza is faced on the right by a small chapel, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and a theatre: the Teatro dei Risorti, erected in 1820 on the spot once reserved for public gatherings and markets.

Crossing the piazza northwards we can climb to the brow where the ancient Rock of Montecatini once stood, its pentagonal perimeter and a tower still visible. At the foot of the Rock are the castle’s original chapel, the Church of St Peter the Apostle, and its belfry.

If you head south from Piazza Giusti you reach another crest on the hillside. Here we find the Baroque Church of Sts Jacob and Philip, and the time-honoured Lemmi Tower with its distinctive 6-hour clock, a XIX-century addition.

All that remains of the medieval walls is one of the seven castle gates, Porta di Borgo – to the north of the Rock and adjacent to the Convent and Church of Santa Maria a Ripa.

TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE OF MONTECATINI ALTO Located at 2 Piazza Campioni www.montecatini-alto.it (also in English)

15 MAONA CAVE

Along the main road up to Montecatini Alto is Grotta Maona, a large natural cavern with two potholes – the only of its kind in Italy. The entrance pothole drops for 20 metres into a chamber, revealing an infernal scene of Dantesque stalactites and stalagmites – its temperature constant at 15°C. A second pothole serves as the exit.

Located at 23 Via Vecchia di Maona - Tel. 0572 74581 Opening times: April to October daily, 9am-12pm 3-6pm Admission: € 6

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Montecatini and its neighbouring Valdinievole district offer a wealth of delicacies, from its famed extra virgin olive oil and white wine, to the chestnuts from Montagna Pistoiese – often ground into a prized flour for local pastries.

Cialda di Montecatini is a must for anyone with a sweet tooth: a crumbly, round, wafer-thin biscuit, it is baked with flour, sugar, whole milk, eggs and Apulian almonds. Cialda (pronounced chalda) is produced by the town’s maestri pasticceri and often served with gelato, hot drinks or fortified wines.

EATING AND DRINKING 16 PASTICCERIA BARGILLI 92 Viale Verdi Tel. 0572 70476, Open daily www.cialdedimontecatini.it Never mind the thermal waters: cialda di Montecatini has been a family tradition at this pasticceria since 1936.

19 RISTORANTE LIBERTY 135 Via Felice Cavallotti Tel. 0572 72135, Open daily www.hotelparmaeoriente.it The Hotel Parma e Oriente’s restaurant, dishing up local classics as well as international fare, all with local ingredients.

17 RISTORANTE ENOTECA GIOVANNI 25 Via Garibaldi Tel. 0572 71695, Closed Monday www.enotecagiovanni.it Located at the back of the basilica.

A menu covering land and sea, and a wine collection of some 900 labels, both Italian and foreign.

Price range: € 40-100

RISTORANTE W.O.W 2 Via Guermani Tel. 0572 911381, Closed Monday www.ristorantewowmontecatini­ terme.com Next to the Montecatini Alto funicular, with panoramic views.

Specialises in fresh fish.

Price range: € 20-50

RISTORANTE GOURMET 6 Via G. Amendola Tel. 0572 771012, Open daily www.gourmetristorante.com A refined ambience offering mainly fish and seafood. Seasonal and traditional dishes from the Tuscan kitchen. Price range: € 50-100 18

CASA GALA Piazza Giuseppe Giusti, Montecatini Alto, Tel. 0572 766130 Open daily, www.casagala.it In the heart of Montecatini Alto: an inn offering Tuscan dishes with a twist, using honest local ingredients.

M O N T E C AT I N I T E R M E

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A STROLL THROUGH MONTECATINI 2 or 3 km / 30 min or 1 hr We retrace our steps as we wander from the primordial marshes to the mountain, the spas to the Rock, the Belle Époque to the Middle Ages.

From Piazza del Popolo we go up Viale Verdi; at Terme Excelsior we carry on along the tree-lined avenue in the Spa Gardens as far as Terme Tettuccio. Cross the square and on towards Terme Leopoldine, to reach Viale Armando Diaz, which skirts the perimeter of the park. From the funicular’s lower station (Stazione a Valle) we can enjoy the 8-minute ride up to Montecatini Alto aboard Gigio or Gigia, the carriages. Alternatively, to work off an excess of cialda and prepare for the next, take Via Giosuè Borsi (on the right); then Via del Castello and the dirt track (Via Corta) through the woods, parallel to the funicular. The views from the top and the medieval burg are well worth it. We would recommend the cable car for the descent. www.funicolare-montecatini.it Stazione a Valle located at 22 Viale Armando Diaz Tel. 388 4666718 Stazione a Monte located at Via Vittorio Veneto Tel. 0572 766862 Timetable: variable, every 30 minutes Prices: one way € 4, round trip € 7

EVENTS , April to October: Montecatini Opera Festival. Held yearly at Terme Tettuccio and Terme Excelsior. Puccini (virtually a neighbour), Verdi (who could not stay away) and much more besides: ‘Eating, loving, singing and digesting are, in truth, the four acts of the comic opera known as life, and they vanish like the bubbles in a bottle of champagne. Whoever lets them burst without having enjoyed them is a complete fool.’ (Gioacchino Rossini) www.montecatinioperafestival.it

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This looped itinerary unfolds around the Padule di Fucecchio marshlands and their continually changing landscapes. From the urban area of Montecatini we pass through the neighbouring drained lands before climbing up the wooded hills of Cerbaie to reach the hamlet of Massarosa.

After a brief descent we take to the gently rolling hills of Montalbano and arrive at Vinci, Leonardo’s birthplace, where we can visit the museum dedicated to the Renaissance genius and his inventions.

Riding through hillocks coated in vineyards and olive groves, we pass through the village of Lamporecchio and, soon after, the renowned spas of Monsummano Terme, a short distance from Montecatini.

1 MEDICEAN CUSTOMS HOUSE OF THE CAPANNONE CANAL

Built around the XVI century on the fringes of the Padule di Fucecchio, this edifice originally served as a customs house between Florence and Lucca. In the XIX century, as agriculture developed in the area, the estate was turned into a farm and warehouse, and served as such until the second half of the XX century. Local produce would be stored and sorted here, before being shipped along the Capannone Canal to the Arno, and onwards to Florence, Pisa or Livorno. Now restored and converted, the building houses a hostel for Via Francigena pilgrims as well as the Padule di Fucecchio Massacre Documentation Centre, which chronicles the Nazi outrage that took place here.

FROM PISA TO FLORENCE

Montecatini Loop

Borgo a

Margine Coperta

Molin Nuovo

Forone

Villa Campanile

Galleno

Spianate

Altopascio

1 A1

Marginone

Pinete

2

Tacchio

Massarella

Dreoli

Stabbia

3

Lazzaretto

Cerreto Guidi

4

La Casuccia

5

Vinci

Porciano

0

Vitolini

N

Mignana

2,5 km

Bacchereto

Spazzavento

Tizzana

Olmi

Ferruccia

Quarrata

Buriano

Lucciano

Montemagno

San Baronto

La Chiesa San Pantaleo

Mastromarco La Stella

Cerbaia

Lamporecchio

Spicchio

Barba

Valenzatico Santonuovo Forrottoli

Casalguidi

Cantagrillo

Mungherino

Larciano

Cecina

San Rocco

Rubattorno Puntoni

Cintolese

Montevettolini

Grotta Giusti

Pozzarello

6

Monsummano Terme

1

Centro di Ricerca, Documentazione e Promozione del Padule di Fucecchio

Poggio Pieracci

1

Anchione

Querce

Vione

Albinatico

Pieve a

Gallo Nievole

Montecatini Terme

Biscolla

Ponte Buggianese Chiesina Uzzanese

San Salvatore Chiesanuova

Macchie di San Piero

Molinaccio Buggiano Torricchio

Santa Lucia

A1

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Italy’s largest inland marshes extend across 1800 hectares within the Provinces of Pistoia and Florence.

The Nature Reserve (230 hectares) lies south of Montecatini, with the Cerbaie Hills to the east and Montalbano to the west. Its geographical location, between the Appenines and the coast, makes the Padule an important resting and nesting ground for many species of birds.

Formed by the swamping of the Valdinievole Valley’s waters, these marshes were also considered a key defensive barrier in former times. The Roman historian Titus Livius records that during the Second Punic War Hannibal’s elephants became bogged in the Padule di Fucecchio, and that the general himself lost an eye here.

In more recent times the marshes have been vital to the local economy, first as a fishing basin and, where drained, in agriculture.

In the XVI century Cosimo I de’

Medici had the valley dammed, at Ponte a Cappiano, to restrict the flow of water and thus maximise the fishing. The frequent epidemics that plagued nearby communities, however, prompted the Grand Duke Peter Leopold I to have the valley entirely drained.

Tobacco plantation became popular here in the XX century, with three extensive drying facilities (sigaraie) once a major feature of the landscape.

The darkest hour of the Padule di Fucecchio’s history probably came with the massacre of civilians perpetrated by the Germans in the Second World War. Padule di Fucecchio Centre for Research, Documentation and Promotion 115 Via Don Franco Malucchi, Larciano (PT) Tel. 0573 84540 www.zoneumidetoscane.it

2 MASSARELLA

This hamlet rests on the wooded Cerbaie Hills, overlooking the Padule. In the Middle Ages it was called Massa Piscatoria and settled by fishermen and hunters. The rural church of Pieve di Santa Maria originally dates from the X century and was extended in the XVII. The annual Palio dei Barchini celebrates the Madonna with a procession of barges through the canals of the Padule.

3 CERRETO GUIDI MEDICEAN VILLA

In 1556 Cosimo I, Grand Duke of Tuscany, had a monumental residence built at Cerreto Guidi, his hunting lodge for forays into Montalbano and the Padule di Fucecchio. This led to the creation of the Barco Reale Mediceo, an exclusive hunting reserve

FROM PISA TO FLORENCE

PADULE DI FUCECCHIO

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occupying 4000 hectares and enclosed by a wall. The complex is now home to the Padule Historical Museum of Hunting, with its collection of weaponry (covering both leisure and warfare) and portraits of the Medici family. Since June 2013, along with another 11 villas and 2 parks, it has been listed under the Medicean Villas and Gardens of Tuscany as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Villa Medicea and Padule Historical Museum of Hunting (Museo Storico della Caccia e del Territorio) 7 Via dei Ponti Medicei Tel. 0571 55707 Opening times: Tuesday to Sunday 8.15am-7pm Admission free www.museodellacaccia.it

4 VINCI

Universally recognised as Leonardo’s birthplace, Vinci is a medieval burg on the slopes of Montalbano, surrounded by vines and olive groves. At the top of the hill rise the Church of the Holy Cross and the Castle of the Guidi Counts, which is now home to the Museo Leonardiano.

It presents Leonardo the inventor, with replicas of machines, mechanisms and optical instruments – including a war machine, helicopter and bicyle – all built according to his principles and plans, which are also displayed.

In the castle’s underground gallery we find the Museo Ideale: an exhibition created by researchers and artists focusing on the

95

complexities of Leonardo the artist, scientist, inventor and designer – all examined in the context of his biography, surroundings and times. The Garden of Leonardo and Utopia, twinned with the Museo Ideale, is currently being created.

In the centre of Vinci are a number of contemporary works of art inspired by and dedicated to Leonardo. In Piazza Libertà Leonardo’s Horse is Nina Akamu’s take on a colossal monument he had designed for the Duke of Milan. A Piazza for Leonardo by Mimmo Paladino represents the stellated polyhedron, symbolising the connection between art and geometry. In the Church of the Holy Cross is a cycle of sculptures by Cecco Bonanotte entitled The Baptism of Leonardo, which took place here. At the rear of the castle, finally: Mario Ceroli’s The Man from Vinci, a wooden sculpture inspired by the iconic drawing, Vitruvian Man. Tourist Office of Vinci and District 1 Via Montalbano Tel. 0571 568012 www.toscananelcuore.it Leonardo Museum of Vinci Palazzina Uzielli and Castle of the Guidi Counts Tel. 0571933251 Opening times: March-October: 9.30am-7pm Admission: € 8. Combined ticket with Leonardo’s birthplace € 11 www.museoleonardiano.it Museo Ideale Leonardo Da Vinci and Garden of Leonardo and Utopia 2 Via Montalbano Tel. 0571 56296 Currently closed. Scheduled to reopen in 2019 www.museoleonardo.com

FROM PISA TO FLORENCE

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LEONARDO DA VINCI Early years in Vinci Leonardo was born illegitimate to Caterina Buti del Vacca and Piero da Vinci, on 15 April 1452.

Still in his infancy, he was taken in and raised by his paternal grandparents, Antonio and Lucia – his father having embarked on a career as a notary in Florence, and his mother married and rehoused in the nearby village of San Pantaleo.

The boy stayed in Vinci and was educated at home by his grandfather, their priest Piero and, chiefly, by his uncle Francesco, whom he remembers with fondness in his writings. Leonardo, as we know, was left-handed and in fact wrote symmetrically in reverse (right to left), a habit that was never ‘corrected’.

In 1469, after his grandfather’s death, the whole family moved to Florence and Leonardo was admitted into the workshop of Andrea del Verrocchio. His connection with his homeland continued for years, however, as can be seen in a number of drawings and projects.

Leonardo’s first authenticated work, also considered the first drawing of a landscape in European art history, bears the date 5 August 1473: a view of the Valdinievole and the Padule di Fucecchio observed from Montalbano, in which we can see the fortified burg of Montevettolini (Landscape with River, Uffizi). So too, in the Codex Atlanticus set of drawings, Leonardo remembers the Waterway and Mill at Vinci that once ran above the castle.

Leonardo’s Bicycle In 1972 Augusto Marinoni, curator of the Italian edition of Leonardo’s manuscripts, was intrigued by a detail on a page of the Codex Atlanticus: the sketch of something akin to a bicycle. The discovery was divulged in a book in 1974, The Unknown Leonardo, in which Marinoni suggests that it might have been sketched by a pupil, who copied it from a design, since lost, drawn by the master himself.

The author faced considerable criticism as a result, not least the accusation of forgery. Whether the Codex has ever been interfered with or not has yet to be established, and for the moment scholars are reluctant to confirm that this too was an invention of Leonardo’s.

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5 LEONARDO DA VINCI’S BIRTH HOUSE

Via di Anchiano, Anchiano - Vinci Tel. 0571 933248 Admission: € 3 Opening times: March-October: 10am-7pm

6 MONSUMMANO TERME

Little remains of the citadel that rose on Mount Monsummano in the Middle Ages, but its story is no less engaging for it. The settlement came to be, from the XVII century onwards, in the wake of an event – deemed miraculous – that took place on the edge of the Padule di Fucecchio: the appearance of a spring next to a shrine dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The Grand Duke Ferdinand I de’ Medici ordered the construction of the Sanctuary of the Fontenuova (‘New Spring’) Madonna, which is now the historic heart of town. The Basilica is in the piazza dedicated to Monsummano’s most illustrious citizen: the Risorgimento poet, Giuseppe Giusti.

Two thermal water caves were discovered in the XIX century, Grotta Parlanti and Grotta Giusti, both prized to this day for the therapeutic properties of their steam baths.

EVENTS , Secondo Saturday in April: Lettura Vinciana. The Vincian Readings are an international conference focusing on unexplored aspects of Leonardo. It is followed by the Celebrazioni Leonardiane, a cultural and sports event. , July: Sagra della Zuppa and Palio dei Barchini, Massarella.

All things soupy at this festival, in the hamlet of Massarella. www.contradamassarella.it , End of July: Unicorn Festival, Vinci. A festival of fun and all things supernatural, from the Parade of the Elfs and Contest of the Wizards, to your future favourite indie band. www.festaunicorno.com

FROM PISA TO FLORENCE

The country house where Leonardo was born is located at tiny Anchiano – a couple of kilometres out of Vinci up on the brow of a (somewhat steep but often sunny!) hill, surrounded by olive trees. The XV-century house was turned into a museum in 1952 to mark the fifth centenary of his birth. An audio-visual trail through the rooms tells his story.

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BRIGIDINI AND BERLINGOZZI OF LAMPORECCHIO These crisp, round wafers are prepared with a mixture of flour, egg, sugar and aniseed, and baked on a hot plate. They are a favourite at fairs and festivals throughout Tuscany. According to the legend, they were introduced by St Birgitta of Sweden; for others, alternatively, Lamporecchio’s favourite biscuit was invented by adding sugar and aniseed to the mixture used to bake

Communion Bread for the nuns of St Birgitta – hence brigidini.

Just as steeped in history is the berlingozzo, the cake at everybody’s lips at Carnival time in the Medici era. A simple ring-shaped sponge made with egg, sugar, flour, milk, lemon and salt, its name derives from berlingaccio – ‘Carnival Thursday’ in dialect.

EATING AND DRINKING IL RISTORO DEL MUSEO 9 Via Montalbano, Vinci Tel. 0571 56516 Opening times: daily except Friday dinner and Saturday lunch Intimate and homely, near Vinci’s musems, serving Tuscan delicacies.

Price range: € 25-30 PASTICCERIA CARLI DA PIOPPINO 20 Piazza Berni, Lamporecchio Tel. 0573 82177 Opening times: daily.

Closed Wednesday

One of the few pasticcerias still producing Lamporecchio’s brigidini the time-honoured way.

BAR GALLIGANI - IL RE DEL CAPPUCCINO 151 Via Garibaldi, Monsummano Terme, Tel. 0572 51271 Opening times: daily.

Closed Sunday The King of Cappuccino is especially popular with cyclists – both pro and amateur. Ingredients and method are a matter of pride (and secrecy!).

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We start the day with a short transfer by train to Pistoia, its countryside a patchwork of colourful nurseries.

Once saddled, we take to the sleepy country roads that follow the course of the Ombrone Pistoiese Torrent, which feeds the countless plantations and nurseries.

After crossing the ancient estate of Tavola, we arrive at Poggio a Caiano and the princely house built by Lorenzo the Magnificent.

A few kilometres on are the foothills of Montalbano; here, at Signa, we meet the River Arno and take the bikeway all the way into the heart of Florence. The prospect before us: the legendary Ponte Vecchio. Benvenuti a Firenze!

The more intrepid riders wishing to cycle from Montecatini will be rewarded with the picturesque climb to Montevettolini, through the olive groves and panoramic expanses that Leonardo himself held dear. Once over Montalbano, a swift descent takes us to Quarrata, near Villa La Magia, where the two itineraries rejoin.

1 MONTEVETTOLINI

The hamlet was founded in the XII century atop Montalbano, 187 metres a.s.l. When it came under Florentine control, Ferdinando I de’ Medici had an estate and farm added in 1597, which was largely used as a hunting lodge for sorties into the sorrounding game reserve of Barco Reale. In the small main piazza sits the Church of Sts Michael the Archangel and Laurence the Martyr, from the XIV century, shoulder-to-shoulder with the belfry which had once been the fortified gate into the medieval keep.

On its slope, not far from the burg, is the Oratory dedicated to the Madonna of the Snow, which has a XV-century fresco depicting the Virgin Mary with Christ the Child and Saints. It is believed that Leonardo produced his first known work in the vicinity: Landscape with River, which he dated as ‘The Day of St Mary of the Snow / On 5 August 1473’, an anniversay still celebrated to this day at the oratory.

FROM PISA TO FLORENCE

From Montecatini to Florence

0

N

1

Cintolese

5 km

Stabbia

Centro di Ricerca, Documentazione e Promozione del Padule di Fucecchio

Anchione

Pieve a Nievole

Cerreto Guidi

Lazzaretto

Mastromarco

Cerbaia

2

Valenzatico 3

Ferruccia

Agliana

Porciano

Vinci

Vitolini

Mignana

Poggetto

Carmignano

5

o

6

Signa

8

9

Scandicci

Mantignano

San Martino alla Palma

Lastra a Signa

Badia a Settimo

San Mauro

Campi Bisenzio

A1

Sesto Fiorentino

Carraia

Calenzano

Gamberame

San Giorgio a Colonica

Poggio a Caiano

A1 1

Fi u m e

Artimino 7

Santa Cristina a Mezzana

Bacchereto

Buriano

4

Figline

Prato

Montemurlo

Montale

Montemagno Quarrata Catena Tizzana

Forrottoli

Lamporecchio

San Rocco

Cantagrillo

Barba

Chiazzano

Ponte alla Pergola

Casalguidi

Larciano

Cecina

Monsummano Terme

Ramini

A 11

Pontelungo

Serravalle Stazione Pistoiese Masotti

Montecatini Terme

Marliana

Pistoia

Arn

Casore del Monte

A1

Arcetri

Firenze

Serpiolle

Paterno

F iu me Arn o

10

Legri

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This compact mountainous chain extends for 16,000 hectares and separates the Valdinievole Valley from the Plain of Florence-PratoPistoia. Its northern border is Mount Pistoiese, while to the south the Arno partitions the chain from the Florentine Hills. Its ridges average 400 metres a.s.l. and it peaks at 644 m.

During the Middle Ages the entire area was secured by a network of small citadels (Serravalle Pistoiese, Monsummano Alto, Montevettolini, Vinci and Artimino), which defended Pistoia. During the Renaissance, by virtue of its proximity to Florence, Montalbano became a game reserve for the Medici, known as

Barco Reale (Park Royal), where some the family’s most famous villas were built: Poggio a Caiano, La Magia at Quarrata and Artimino, all UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Montalbano’s landscape is a mixed canvas of woodland, cultivated fields, vineyards and olive groves, which yield quality produce such as Tuscan extra virgin olive oil and red wines (Carmignano, Chianti Montalbano and Barco Reale) – all world-famous and classified with top Quality Appellations – as well as honey, cheeses, fruit conserves and medicinal plants. www.montalbano.toscana.it

2 VILLA LA MAGIA

During the first half of the XIV century the Panciatichi, a rich family from Pistoia, built a tower-house that enabled them to control the road from Florence to Pistoia.

The structure was subsequently extended and became a residence used for hunting and parties. In 1536 the villa hosted Charles V, Holy Roman Emperor, and in 1579 the wedding celebrations of Francesco I de’ Medici; the latter acquired La Magia a few years later and ordered its restoration, which was carried out without radical alterations to the structure. It was sold in 1645 and came under the ownership of the Attavanti and, later, the Amati; over time, both families had the interior and the gardens redesigned. Villa Magia is listed under the Medici Villas and Gardens of Tuscany as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. www.villalamagia.com 63 Via Vecchia Fiorentina, Quarrata Tel. 0573 7710 - Mob. 334 8778007 Guided tours by reservation only (min. 10 people) Admission: € 8

FROM PISA TO FLORENCE

MONTALBANO

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THE PLAIN OF FLORENCE-PRATO-PISTOIA Being one of the most industrialised and densely populated areas in Tuscany – with a highly developed infrastructure to support it – the plain is also, regrettably, one of the most polluted and busiest with traffic. In spite of this, there are a good number of protected nature areas, while the plentiful nurseries and plantations also contribute to a relatively balanced environment.

The territory effectively forms a

basin enclosed by the Appenines and outlying hills, its floodplains fed by several waterways. The principal ones are the Ombrone Pistoiese Torrent, which brushes Pistoia on the western side of the plain; the Bisenzio River, midway, that flows through Prato; and finally the Arno, into which both of the former flow – on the southern side of the plain, near Signa, 15 kilometres west of Florence.

3 LA QUERCIOLA – AREA OF LOCAL NATURAL INTEREST

This nature reserve is enclosed by the Ombrone and the Dogaia Trench, within the comune of Quarrata, and extends for 188 hectares. It includes two lakes, which are shooting reserves and dry out in the summer; and four open-air disused clay quarries, which are kept permanently flooded. The area known as La Laghina is a bird sanctuary with nesting grounds, home to numerous species of waders and other waterfowl. www.zoneumidetoscane.it

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Located at Via Traversa del Crocifisso and Via della Fattoria, Tavola 5 POGGIO A CAIANO MEDICEAN VILLA

Also known as Ambra, the villa is located on higher ground above the Ombrone, halfway between Florence and Pistoia; it is UNESCO-listed. Along with Villa Medici in Fiesole, it is considered the prototype of the Renaissance stately mansion: the living quarters open outwards and there are none of the military or defensive features found in medieval villas and castles.

Lorenzo de’ Medici commissioned Giuliano da Sangallo for the project in 1485. The construction was suspended in 1492 following Lorenzo’s death, resumed later by order of his son, Pope Leo X, and finalised in the second half of the XVI century.

The original aspect of the external façade remains virtually unchanged, save the double stairway leading to the terrace.

The interior has been substantially altered, though still maintaining many of the Renaissance frescoes and embellishments executed by famous artists such as Filippino Lippi, Pontormo and Andrea del Sarto.

Adjacent buildings include the chapel, large kitchen, lemon house, Pallacorda court (Real Tennis) and the recently restored stables.

In the course of the centuries the villa at Poggio a Caiano has been the residence of the Grand Dukes of Tuscany, Elisa

FROM PISA TO FLORENCE

4 CASCINE DI TAVOLA – AREA OF LOCAL NATURAL INTEREST

Today’s park was once the agricultural area of the villa at Poggio a Caiano.

In Lorenzo de’ Medici’s Visione Ideale, the hunting lodge and the farm – despite being separated by the Ombrone – would come together as a perfect representation of Leisure and Nature in ideal harmony, both prerequisites of Renaissance Humanism.

The project for Le Cascine was given to Giuliano da Sangallo, who created an edifice with a square plan, a central court and a surrounding moat – modelled on the farmhouses of the Po River Plain.

The neighbouring marshland was drained to create a network of navigable canals. The estate was used primarily for cattle and fruit farming; rice too has been cultivated here.

The area now comprises a golf club, horse riding facilities and, where the original Cascine (Farmsteads) once stood, a public park – these are currently under restoration.

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Bonaparte Baciocchi (Princess of Lucca and Piombino) and, finally, Victor Emanuel II, King of Italy. It has been a national museum since 1984 and benefitted from a lengthy restoration which was completed in 2007.

As well as the gardens, visitors can enjoy the monumental apartments on the ground and first floors, and the Still Life Museum on the second. www.prolocopoggioacaiano.it 14 Piazza de Medici, Poggio a Caiano Tel. 055 877012 Opening times: daily 8.30am-6.30pm. Closed on the second and third Mondays of the month Admission free

BRIDES, BEAUX AND BELOVED AT POGGIO A CAIANO The villa at Poggio a Caiano has staged many a notable event in Medici family history. This is where Florentine nobility would come to pay homage to any Grand Ducal bride before her procession into town; and where the marriages of Alessandro de’ Medici to Margaret of Austria (1556), and Cosimo I to Eleanor of Toledo (1559) were celebrated. But plenty more besides would happen in the shadows of the wings.

At the centre of one of the greatest scandals of the Renaissance was the Grand Duke Francesco I who, after marrying Joanna of Austria, embarked upon an affair with Bianca Cappello, a Venetian noblewoman. After the death of the legitimate wife, the couple married in the villa in

1579; but in October 1587, just a single day apart, they both found their death in obscure circumstances. Bianca Cappello’s apartments can be visited on the ground floor.

Almost three centuries later, Elisa Napoleon is said to have had a liaison with the violin virtuoso Niccolò Paganini, who often performed at the villa’s theatre.

When Florence became the capital of the Kigdom of Italy, Victor Emanuel II – who loved horses and hunting – had the residence at Poggio a Caiano converted in order to accommodate his ‘bella Resina’: Rosa Vercellana, a woman of lower rank from Piedmont, who eventualy became his morganatic wife.

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MEDICI VILLAS AND GARDENS OF TUSCANY These villas, in UNESCO’s own words, as well as bearing witness to the economic power and cultural influence of the Medici family, ‘represent an innovative system of construction in harmony with nature and dedicated to leisure, the arts and knowledge […]. The Medici villas form the first example of the connection between architecture, gardens and the environment, and became an enduring reference for princely residences throughout Italy and Europe. Their gardens and integration into the natural environment helped develop the appreciation of landscape characteristic of Humanism and the Renaissance.’

If the countless properties bought, confiscated or built by the Medici between the XV and XVII centuries were centres of leisure and hospitality, they also constituted significant capital investments and were strategically placed.

Four of these UNESCO Heritage villas are in Florence (Careggi, La Petraia, Villa di Castello and Villa di Poggio Imperiale), and another near Fiesole.

In the Mugello district, north-east of Florence, whence the Medici came, we find the Villa Cafaggiolo at Barberino del Mugello and Trebbio Castle at San Piero a Sieve; both had been in the family since the XIV century.

To these we should add the villas of Poggio a Caiano, Quarrata, Artimino and Cerreto Guidi, scattered around Montalbano; plus the Palazzo di Seravezza on the foothills of the Apuan Alps, in the Province of Lucca.

Finally, within the listed sites: Boboli Gardens behind Palazzo Pitti in Florence, and the Pratolino Garden at Vaglia. whc.unesco.org

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FROM PISA TO FLORENCE

6 ETRUSCAN BURIAL MOUNDS OF COMEANA

A major archaeological dig in the 1960s brought to light a series of remarkable finds at the Etruscan settlement of Artimino, bearing witness to an extraordinary flourish in its culture and economy in the VII century BC. The discovery in Comeana came in 1965: the monumental tumulus of Montefortini, a man-made hill with a diameter of 80 and a height of 11 metres, covered by a copse of Common and Holly Oaks. Within it lies a circular tomb (tholos), with a 7-m diameter, and a tomb with a rectangular chamber. Nearby is another Etruscan tomb, the Boschetti. Their funerary accessories are exhibited at the Artimino Archaeological Museum. www.parcoarcheologicocarmignano.it Via Montefortini, Comeana Tel. 055 8719741 Opening times: Mon-Sat: 9am-2pm Admission free 7 MEDICI VILLA OF ARTIMINO

The Etruscan settlement of Artimino became a fortified village during the Middle Ages, under Pistoian control. Subsequently, from the XIV century onwards, it was absorbed into the dominions of Florence, until the Medici acquired it along with other neighbouring land. While out on a hunt on Montalbano in the company of the architect Bernardo Buontalenti, the Grand Duke Ferdinando I was struck by the beauty of the location: this brought together, he felt, all the elements of how he perceived the Grand Duchy as a whole. The villa he decided to build here was created in just four years, between 1596 and 1600.

The mansion is also known as La Ferdinanda or the Villa of a Hundred Chimneys, on account of its stacks and flues.

The so-called Hall of the Villas was at one time adorned with 17 paintings in lunette form (semicircular) by Giusto Utens, featuring the Medicean villas in bird’s eye view. The 14 surviving ones are currently in safekeeping at Villa della Petraia in Florence.

Artimino now houses a hotel complex and, in its basement, the Civic Archaeological Museum. www.artimino.com 1 Viale Papa Giovanni XXIII, Artimino Tel. 055 875141

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8 SIGNA

From Roman times onwards, Signa played a significant role as a riverine harbour, enjoying its strategic position at the confluence of the Arno, Ombrone Pistoiese and Bisenzio. A bridge built in the XII century – the only one of its time along the Arno between Florence and Pisa – further increased its commercial importance during the Middle Ages.

The oldest part of the settlement, dating to around 1000 AD, lies upon the hill where once stood the castle and its wall. Within the burg are numerous religious edifices, among them the churches of St Mary and St John the Baptist, where the remains of the Blessed Giovanna da Signa, patron of the village, are displayed in a glass casket.

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FROM PISA TO FLORENCE

9 PARCO DEI RENAI

The fertile area at the confluence of the Arno and Ombrone had been farmed since the XVII century, but then turned into a quarrry for aggregate materials and sand during the XX. Once abandoned, the quarry was reclaimed by nature and the pits have now become ponds, populated by wetland flora and fauna.

Part of the area has been transformed into a park with facilities for music and other cultural activities, as well as sports. It also offers a café/restaurant, swimming pool and boutique. www.parcorenai.it 9 Via dei Renai, Signa 9 PARCO DELLE CASCINE

With its gardens, lawns and tree-lined alleys, the ‘Park of the Farmsteads’ (cascine is pronounced ‘casheenay’) is the green lung of Florence. Its 130 heactares stretch along the right bank of the Arno, between the modern Ponte all’Indiano viaduct and Piazza Vittorio Veneto, within reach of the historic centre. It counts 19,000 trees and numerous bird species.

The estate was bought by the Medici in the first half of the XVI century for farming and hunting purposes, and became a public park in 1765 by decree of Peter Leopold of Lorraine. The area was then enriched with edifices, fountains and monuments, with architect Giuseppe Manetti’s neoclassical Royal Palazzina occupying pride of place.

THE BRIDGE AND THE INDIAN PRINCE The modern viaduct linking the two banks of the Arno is Florence’s most recent bridge. It was completed in 1978, the first earth-anchored and cable-stayed bridge in the world with no intermediate support in the riverbed. Spanning 210 metres, it is still one of the longest cable-stayed bridges in Europe.

It takes its name (The Indian’s Bridge) from the nearby monument dedicated to the Maharajah of Kolhapur, Rajaram Chuttraputti.

The young prince was staying in Florence in 1870 on his return from England when he suddenly met his death. His body was cremated in accordance with Brahmanic tradition, and his ashes were dispersed in the waters at the confluence of the Arno and the Mugnone Torrent. A cenotaph, by the British sculptor Charles Francis Fuller, was erected in the Parco delle Cascine to mark the spot where his pyre was lit.

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Amenities at the Parco delle Cascine include refreshment points and sports facilities (Visarno Hippodrome, Le Pavoniere Swimming Pool, a National Shooting Centre and Florence Tennis Club). The park is also home to the Institute of Military Aeronautical Science and the School of Agriculture of Florence University.

THE RIVER ARNO

Tuscany’s principal waterway finds its source on Mount Falterona, along the Tuscan-Romagna Appenines, and flows into the Ligurian Sea near Marina di Pisa after traversing the Provinces of Arezzo and Florence.

With its 241 km, it is the eighth longest river in Italy; besides Florence it washes the Tuscan towns of Empoli, Fucecchio, Santa Croce sull’Arno, Pontedera, Cascina and, finally, Pisa.

In spite of its respectable basin size (8,228 km²) and many tributaries, the Arno’s behaviour is frequently torrential and subject to long periods of low level in summer, and sudden – often devastating – overflows in autumn.

From its source, the river meanders down the Casentino Valley, through the Plain of Arezzo and the Imbuto (‘Funnel’) Gulley, and enters the Valle

dell’Inferno: this, the legend goes, is where Dante met Charon the Ferryman. In the Upper Arno Valley (Valdarno Superiore) it takes in the waters from the Sieve tributary and traverses the Plain of Florence.

Once past the narrows of Gonfolina, near Signa, it pours into the Lower Arno Valley (Valdarno Inferiore), swollen by the Pesa and Elsa. When it finally settles in the Plain of Pisa, the Arno slows its course, widens and twists.

The Arno provided a key communication and transport course between Florence and the coast until well into the XIX, when the Pisa-Livorno railway was built. The river was used to ship timber from the Casentino Valley’s forests to Florence, and transport iron mined on the Island of Elba.

FROM PISA TO FLORENCE

parcodellecascine.comune.fi.it Tel. 055 2768806

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Eating and drinking Prato’s Biscotti – Carmignano’s Amaretti and Dried Figs Commonly known as cantucci or cantuccini, the dry, almond-based Biscotti di Prato are the pride of many a Tuscan pastry chef – perfect when dunked in fortified wine, grappa or coffee. The most famous are the ones baked by Mattei, the historic Biscottificio in Prato.

The Biscottificio Bellini in Carmignano is renowned for its sweet and (toasted) bitter almond amaretti: this biscotto is round, amber in colour and slightly larger than a wallnut.

Dried figs are the speciality of many Carmignano families, a tradition handed down through countless generations. Their future – along with the fate of other Tuscan classics – is sadly under threat because their cultivation is strictly observed to safeguard them from invasive varieties: nothing but the Dottato Fig will do. Picked between the end of August and mid-September, the finest fruits are cut lengthways and fumigated with

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sulphurous smoke to keep the peel white and the pulp soft.

Once dried, they are spiced with aniseed and squashed into a figure of eight. HRH The Prince of Wales is reported to have enjoyed his Carmignano’s dried figs at the 2004 Salone del Gusto food fair (‘Very good, very good’).

EATING AND DRINKING FIASCHETTERIA I’ MULINO Opening times: daily from 12 noon.

Closed Mondays 29 Via Cancellieri, Poggio a Caiano Tel. 055 8779541 fiaschetteriaimulino.com Wine bar and restaurant in an ancient mill (mulino). Fine wines, tried and tested Tuscan recipes.

PASTICCERIA ROBERTA 49 Via Cancellieri, Poggio a Caiano Tel. 055 877305 Opening times: Daily.

Closed Tuesday www.cateringroberta.it

This craft pasticceria has notched up over 40 years of fine baking. The cafeteria also offers hot savoury dishes from the Tuscan kitchen.

GELATERIA NONNA LUISA 47 Via Ardengo Soffici, Poggio a Caiano Tel. 055 8798475 www.gelaterianonnaluisa.it Many gelaterias abuse the word ‘craft’, but not Nonna Luisa’s. The gelato is always fresh and its ingredients are top quality. Also serves yogurt, crêpes and savoury piadinas.

EVENTS , Easter Monday. Feast of the Blessed Giovanna. Signa’s saintly daughter is celebrated with a historical procession and some 300 costumed characters. , September. Medieval Festival of Montevettolini. , First week of September. Signa’s costumes come out again, this time for its festival of yore. More history and pageantry, and the arrows get sharpened for the annual archery challenge. , Mid-September. Siege at the Villa. Historical re-enactment of the nuptials uniting Francesco I de’ Medici and Joanna of Austria, with performances and sideshows. (But will his innamorata, Bianca, be there too?) www.assedioallavilla.it

FROM PISA TO FLORENCE

Biscottificio Mattei: www.antoniomattei.it Biscottificio Bellini Giuseppe: www.daifochi.it

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Fuorcivitas

3 Chiesa San Giovanni

Madonna dell’Umiltà

2 Santuario Basilica della

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Pistoia The city rises on the north-western end of the Plain of FlorencePrato-Pistoia, at the feet of the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines, and is washed by several fast-flowing rivers.

Well away from the more popular tourist trails, Pistoia still bears witness to its glorious medieval past and can boast one of the most beautiful piazzas in Italy: the ancient Piazza del Duomo, to this day the heart of a vibrant city.

Ever since the second half of the XIX century, the nurseries sector has played a key role in the development of Pistoia’s district; it now accounts for its principal economy, alongside railway technology. Some two thousand horti- and floricultural businesses in Pistoia yield 25% of Italy’s commercial flower and plant production.

In 2017 Pistoia flew the flag as Italy’s Capital of Culture, which led to the restoration of several monuments in town and numerous cultural initiatives and arts events.

THE PROVINCE OF PISTOIA IN FIGURES SURFACE AREA: 964 square kilometers POPULATION: 291,815 SIX LARGEST TOWNS BY POPULATION: Pistoia: 93,629; Quarrata: 26,190; Monsummano Terme: 20,831; Pescia: 19,851; Montecatini Terme: 19,473; Agliana: 17,533

TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE OF PISTOIA Located at 4 Piazza Duomo. Tel. 0573 21622 www.pistoia.turismo.toscana.it (also in English) Opening times: Mon-Fri 9am-1pm and 3-6pm. Sat 9am-1pm

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History of the city The fortified town of Pistorium (Pistoaria or Pistoriae) was founded by the Romans in the II century BC as a strategic outpost, during the war fought with the Liguri over control of the Pistoian Apennines.

Partly destroyed by the Goths in 406 AD, its population and economy only began to recover in the VII century under Longobard rule; this culminated in the XII when the city enjoyed its Golden Age and broadest territorial expansion. Pistoia became a free Comune in 1105, and in 1117 published the Statuto dei Consoli (Statute of the Consuls), the earliest recorded constitution of such Comunes, enshrining laws, rules and conventions.

The commercial and financial activity of Pistoian merchants and currency changers favoured the city’s rapid economic growth and contributed to its urban development.

Politically siding with the Holy Roman Emperor since time immemorial, Pistoia was allied to Pisa and Siena for many years.

Following the Ghibelline party’s defeat at Benevento (1266), however, it slid into a long period of political instability; it finally fell to the Republic of Florence and, later, became part of the Grand Duchy of Tuscany.

THE LION AND THE BEAR The bear has been the symbol of Pistoia since the mid-1300s, when the city was liberated from a siege by its own arch-enemy, Florence.

The Pistoiese, in an effort to assert their continued strength and independence, chose the big bad bear, since Florence had already claimed the lion – sovereign of the Animal Kingdom in medieval bestiaries – as its own.

Over time the Florentine Lion would show who ruled the pride, as suggested by the Pozzo del Leoncino in Piazza della Sala: this well, with a ‘Little Lion’ atop, puts Florentine dominance over Pistoia beyond all doubt. And the Pistoian

bear, micco in dialect, far from being fierce and feral, has ended up being mocked as meek and mild by its own folk.

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Ever since the XV century, Pistoia has been known as the ‘City of Pulpits’ owing to the presence in some churches of finely decorated examples narrating the life of Christ.

At St Bartholomew’s in Pantano, for example, a few hundred metres from Piazza del Duomo, is the pulpit attributed to Guido da Como and

dated 1236. In the country church of St Andrew’s, not far from the Ospedale del Ceppo hospital, is Giovanni Pisano’s masterpiece from 1301; while at St John’s Fuorcivitas (once outside the city walls) is the monumental pulpit created by Guglielmo da Pisa in 1270.

The best in brief 1 PIAZZA DEL DUOMO

Acknowledged as one of the most beautiful piazzas in Italy, its buildings – the Cathedral, Baptistery and governmental edifices – could recount the history of Pistoia.

As well as being the heart of religious and political activity in the city, ever since the Middle Ages it has hosted the market, which takes place on Wednesdays and Saturdays.

A stone tower stands 30 m high on the spot where, by the legend, Lucius Sergius Catilina – political nemesis of the famous Roman orator and philosopher, Cicero – was buried in 62 BC. CATHEDRAL OF SAINT ZENO

The existence of a cathedral has been documented since the X century, although with the structure repeatedly damaged by fire and earthquake over the centuries, it struggles to flaunt a distinct stylistic unity. The loggia tiers and the white and green marble surfaces date from the XIV century.

Even the belfry (67 m) is a fusion of architectural styles: the base was originally a Longobard tower with no openings, to which further levels were added. Their double-arched apertures

PISTOIA ON THE INTERNET WWW.TURISMO.PISTOIA.IT Official homepage of the Province with information about its history, culture, museums and events (also in English)

WWW.DISCOVERPISTOIA.IT Commercial site with useful info on tourist services, accommodation and restaurants (also in English)

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are designed in Pisan and Luccan Romanesque styles.

In the Chapel of the Crucifix we find a masterpiece of precious metalwork, executed between 1287 and 1456: the silver altar with the relic of St Jacob, better known as St James of Compostela.

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Piazza Duomo. Tel. 0573 25095 Open daily: 8.30am-12.30pm and 3-7pm.

July and August 8.30am-7pm The Altar of St James can be visited by request during opening hours.

Admission free

CULT OF ST JAMES

The cult dates back to the IX century when, in order to ward off any incursions by the Saracens – who had reached the gates of Rome – the people of Pistoia invoked the Apostle, who was held to be the Defender of all Christians.

By the legend, St James/Jacob had appeared to the leader of the Christian troops during the Spanish Reconquista – even earning himself the sobriquet Matamoros (Slayer of Moors). The Saracens nevers reached Pistoia and, in gratitude,

St James was decreed patron saint of the city, with a dedicated cathedral.

Over time, during the Middle Ages, the saint’s tomb near Santiago di Compostela became a major site of pilgrimage; and the Bishop of Pistoia, Atto, requested a fragment of the Apostle’s remains from the Bishop of Compostela.

The relic made its way to our Duomo, which in turn became a pilgrimage destination along the Via Francigena.

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WHITE, ROUND AND ‘LUMPY’ Confetti Bruno Corsini dal 1918 42 Piazza San Francesco.

Tel. 0573 20138 www.brunocorsini.com

ANCIENT BISHOPS’ PALACE

Next to the Duomo we find the XIII-century residence of the bishops, which now houses several collections. The unusual exhibits of the Tactile Museum – Touching the City consist of scaled down models of the main architectural monuments in town. The Museum of San Zeno Cathedral assembles religious works of arts. The palazzo’s basement offers an archaeological trail through the city’s Etruscan and Roman past.

3 Piazza Duomo. Tel. 0573 369275 Guided tours only Admission: € 5

BAPTISTERY OF SAN GIOVANNI IN CORTE

Dating from the XIV century, the Baptistery is located opposite the Cathedral and presents, for many, Tuscan Gothic at its most glorious. It is octagonal and decked in white and green strips of marble. The upper tier is enriched with an elegant loggia.

The sculpted group above the main doorway features a Madonna and Child flanked by St John the Baptist and St Peter.

The baptismal font indoors was created in 1226 and is sculpted and inlaid with polychrome marble.

Piazza Duomo. Tel. 3341689419 Open daily: 10am-6pm - Belfry visits by booking only Admission free

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From the XIV century onwards, to mark St James’ Day on 25 July, the Guild of Physicians and Apothecaries of Pistoia would prepare anici confecti (sugared almonds with aniseed), which were offered to the celebrants. To this day, Pistoia’s confetti (in modern Italian) are prepared by hand, keeping the tradition alive. The ‘soul’, consisting of aniseed, coriander, almond or chocolate, gets coated in sugar in a special oven where it rolls for ten hours: this gives the sweet its gnarled texture, which the Pistoiese call, in their dialect, birignoccoluta – or lumpy.

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PRAETORIAL PALACE AND TOWN HALL

The two palazzos, to this day the Law Courts and the Town Hall (Palazzo del Comune) of Pistoia, face each other in the widest part of the piazza and were built around the XIV century. In the internal courtyard of the Praetorial Palace we can still see the stone seats of the judges and the defendant’s bench; the gallery is decorated with the coats of arms of the city’s senior figures and magistrates.

The Town Hall palazzo is connected with an elevated passageway to the Duomo. On its façade it bears the Medici coats of arms of Pope Leo X and Duke Alessandro, and a black marble head on a metal pike: this probably portrays the Moorish governor of Majorca slain by a Pistoiese captain during the Pisan conquest of the Balearics in the XII century.

The Civic Museum occupies some of the first and second floor halls and displays a series of paintings from the XIII and XIX centuries.

Museo Civico 1 Piazza Duomo. Tel. 0573 371296 Open Thu-Sun, 10am-6pm Admission: € 3.50

2 OUR LADY OF HUMILITY SANCTUARY AND BASILICA

The current Basilica was built in the wake of a prodigious event that took place on 17 July 1490, when an image of the Madonna

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is said to have started weeping in the church – at the time St Mary Forisportam. Acknowledging the significance of the miracle, a larger church was erected, able to accommodate the increasing number of faithful flocking to it.

The Sanctuary is in fact Pistoia’s prime Renaissance building, involving a number of architects. Among these are Giuliano da San Gallo for the initial project and Giorgio Vasari, between 1561 and 1567, for the dome.

The interior of the Basilica, rich in frescoes and other works of art, has an octagonal structure surmounted by the cupola, 59 m high. www.basilicadellamadonna.it Via della Madonna. Tel. 0573 22045 Open Tue-Thu 9am-7pm, Mon-Wed-Fri-Sat 9-12am 4-7pm Admission free

3 CHURCH OF ST JOHN FUORCIVITAS

This Romanesque complex from the XII is named Fuorcivitas because when it was built it stood outside the medieval city walls.

Its northern flank – along Via Cavour – constitutes its façade, which is decorated with overlapping rows of arches in white and green marble. Halfway along, the portal is supported by a sculpted architrave, which depicts the Last Supper.

Among the masterpieces found within: the tin-glazed Visitation

by Luca della Robbia (1445), a Holy Water font by Nicola Pisano (XIII century), and a polyptych by Taddeo Gaddi featuring a Madonna and Child with Saints (1353).

2 Via Francesco Crispi. Tel. 0573 24784 Opening times variable Admission free

4 FORTRESS OF SAINT BARBARA

The fortress offers a prime example of XVI-century military architecture and was ordered by the Grand Duke Cosimo I. It has only been under siege once in its entire history (1643), and was later used as barracks and a prison. It has been restored in recent years and is now open to the public.

Piazza della Resistenza. Tel 0573 24212 Open Tue to Sun, 8.15am-1.30pm. Closed Monday Admission free

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5 CEPPO HOSPITAL

The legend goes that the Ospedale was built on the spot where a tree stump (ceppo) once miraculously flowered in deepest winter. Founded in 1277, it played a critical role during the Black Death of 1348, and subsequently served as the city’s hospital until 2013.

On its façade, we can admire one of Pistoia’s most famous works of art: the tin-glazed terracotta frieze executed by Benedetto and Santi Buglioni in the first half of the XVI century. It illustrates the Seven Works of Mercy – to Clothe the naked, Give shelter to the pilgrim, Visit the imprisoned, Bury the dead, Feed the hungry, Give water to the thirsty – which are evenly spaced by the Five Virtues: Prudence, Faith, Charity, Hope and Justice.

Below this are five circular pannels, four of which were created

by Giovanni della Robbia and picture the Annunciation, the Glory of the Virgin, the Visitation and the Medici coat of arms.

From 1666 onwards the hospital housed the Pistoia Medical School; it was equipped with an anatomy amphitheatre, considered to be the smallest in the world. The Pistoia Museum of Health is currently being created here; it will display surgical equipment used by the medical school in the course of the XVIII and XIX centuries.

Located at Piazza Giovanni XXIII

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5 Subterranean Museum of Pistoia A series of archaeological digs in the 1970s led to the discovery of a tunnel running under the Ceppo Hospital, through which flowed the Brana Torrent. The site, which includes a Roman bridge and medieval wash houses and watermills, is the longest underground trail in Italy and runs to approximately 650 metres. The guided tour lasts about an hour and includes a visit to the Anatomy Amphitheatre. www.irsapt.it Entrance at the Ceppo Hospital.

Tel. 0573 368023 Open daily: 10am-6pm Admission: € 9

6 Palazzo Rospigliosi is home to the Diocesan Museum (Museo Diocesano) with its liturgical fineries and other religious works, and the Embroidery Museum (Museo del Ricamo) dedicated to this time-honoured local tradition. www.cultura.pistoia.it 3 Via Ripa del Sale.

Diocesan Museum Tel. 0573 28740 Opening times: Tue-Sat 10am-1pm and 3-6pm. Closed Mon and Sun Admission: € 3.50 Embroidery Museum Tel. 0573 358016 Opening times: Tue-Thu-Sat 10am-1pm, Fri and Sat 3-6pm.

Closed Mon and Sun Admission free

Eating and drinking As elsewhere in Tuscany, simplicity and wholesomeness triumph in the kitchens of Pistoia. There are, however, two distinct branches here: urban food and mountain food.

Pistoia’s mountains offer few, if tasty, ingredients: porcini, blueberries, raspberries, pecorino cheese (ewe’s milk), ricotta and, importantly, chestnut flour – once a staple for Apennine communities. The latter is used to create the dough for castagnaccio (a cake made with olive oil, rosemary, raisins, pine nuts and salt); and for necci: pancakes with ricotta, sausage meat, pancetta and fruit conserve.

In town the menu offers more choice, starting with the antipasti: arista sott’olio (pork loin with spices and herbs preserved in oil); fett’unta or panunto (hot crunchy bread rubbed with garlic and dressed with olive oil, salt and pepper); crostini – croutons with an assortment of giblets or cavolo nero (Tuscan kale).

But Pistoia’s delicacy per eccellenza is the Prisoner, il carcerato: a thick soup of stale bread boiled in a stock of calf’s offal, onion,

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carrot, celery and tomato, and served up with a powdering of cheese and pepper.

This zuppa harks back to the days when Pistoia prison was located next door to the city abattoir, and the inmates would ask that the leftovers be added to the usual watery mess.

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EATING AND DRINKING 7 TRATTORIA DELL’ABBONDANZA 10 Via dell’Abbondanza Tel. 0573 368037 Open daily for lunch and dinner, closed Wednesday www.trattoriadellabbondanza.it Seasonal menu of traditional Tuscan and Pistoian dishes, with a contemporary twist.

Price range € 25-50 8 CACIODIVINO 13 Via del Lastrone Tel. 0573 1941058 Open daily www.mediceo.it If the dishes are unpretentious, the ingredients are carefully chosen. A broad choice of wines.

Price range € 10-30

9 LA CANTINETTA 15 Via Francesco Crispi Tel. 0573 1781113 Open daily Diminutive ristorante/pizzeria in the historic centre, with a fusion of tradition and innovation.

10 LE ZIE DEL LAMPREDOTTO 45 Via IV Novembre Tel. 329 2141760 Open daily: 10am-14.30pm and 6.30-11.30pm ‘Aunties of Lampredotto’ is the place to try the poor wo/man’s dishes of Tuscany – among them lampredotto, ribollita and cioncia.

EVENTS , Second weekend of July: Pistoia Blues Festival. Founded in 1980, this was the first Italian festival entirely dedicated to the Blues. It has proved hugely popular, attracting some the world’s top Blues artists. In Piazza del Duomo. pistoiablues.com , 25 July: Joust of the Bear. This pageant has been held ever since the XIII century in honour of St James. Piazza del Duomo turns into a racecourse, with the historic wards of Pistoia fighting it out on horseback. www.giostradellorso-pistoia.it

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1 km / 45 min To visit the centre of Pistoia it makes sense to ride as far as Piazza del Duomo (about one kilometre from the train station) and from there, after visiting the Cathedral and Baptistery, continue on foot.

In the far corner of the piazza, between Palazzo Pretorio and the Monte dei Paschi di Siena building, we set off along Via degli Orafi, Pistoia’s ancient east-west Decumanus road, with its boutiques, shops and scattering of Art Deco buildings.

At the crossroads, if we carry straight on, after a few metres we find the Basilica of Our Lady of Humility, tucked away among other buildings.

Staying in the pedestrian area, we proceed along Via Bruno Buozzi; at the next crossroads, on our left, we can spot part of the façade of the Church of St John Fuorcivitas. Once we reach its portal, we take the narrow Via Sant’Anastasio to the ancient Piazza della Sala: this is where the fruit and vegetable market is held, and there is also a good choice of restaurants.

At the opposite end of the square, Via di Stracceria takes us back to the front of the Bishops’ Palace.

Back in Piazza del Duomo, if we continue beyond the Catilina Tower, at the end of Via Tomba di Catilina we can see, a short distance away, the magnificent frieze of the Ospedale del Ceppo.

PISTOIA

A STROLL THROUGH PISTOIA

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Ponte di Masino

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After a last arrivederci to Ponte Vecchio, we recommend reaching Empoli by train, thus avoiding the most challenging part of the itinerary – over the Florentine Hills.

As we ride from Empoli, along the Lower Valley of the Arno, after a few kilometres we have the option of a detour to the picturesque medieval hamlet of San Miniato – an 8-km diversion.

From Castelfranco di Sotto our route continues to the right of the Arno and encounters our only climb for the day – short, if intense – to arrive at Santa Maria a Monte. The descent leads us to Bientina and shortly beyond to the Castle of Vicopisano.

Riding on the foothills of Monte Pisano we meet the Arno again, now lazy and twisting, which drops us back in Pisa.

Anyone choosing to ride the first stretch of the stage needs to negotiate a 4-km ascent from Lastra a Signa, and then the drop – with a couple of fairly steep stretches – as far as Montelupo Fiorentino.

1 LASTRA A SIGNA

Lastra draws its name from the stone quarried near Signa, on the opposite bank of the Arno: pietra serena (see below). Lastra means slab. From Roman times onwards it served as a strategic outpost to control the Via Quinctia, later becoming a stronghold to defend Florence from Pisan incursions.

Within Lastra’s XV-century walls, which are virtually intact, are several buildings of notable historic and artistic interest, such as the Praetorian Palace, the Hospital of St Anthony and the Church of Santa Maria della Misericordia. www.lastraontour.it

FROM FLORENCE TO PISA

From Florence to Pisa

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PIETRA SERENA This grey sandstone was used for construction as early as Etruscan times, but notably during the Renaissance and right up to the early XIX century. Historically, pietra serena was extracted from the hills of Fiesole, the area around Lastra a

Signa and near Pescia. Filippo Brunelleschi was the first architect to use the stone, which features in many of his Florentine masterprojects, such as the Basilica of San Lorenzo.

FROM FLORENCE TO PISA

VILLA CARUSO DI BELLOSGUARDO This Late-Renaissance villa and its ample park rise on a hill overlooking the Arno. In 1906 the legendary Neapolitan tenor, Enrico Caruso, fell in love with the tranquillity of the place, bought the property and

made it his hideaway in between tours. It is now the principal museum in Italy dedicated to him.

42 Via delle Selve, Lastra a Signa www.museoenricocaruso.it

2 SAN ROMOLO A SETTIMO

The Church of St Romulus de Septimo dates from the XII century and stands on the highest spot around Lastra a Signa (286 m). It offers fabulous views including the Apennines, Florence and the hills of Siena.

3 MALMANTILE

The origin of the name, local lore recounts, goes back to the IV century , when St Ambrose, on his way to Florence, received a rather poor welcome at the local inn. His curse made the establishment collapse: ‘Mala Mantilia!’, went his malediction (‘Cursed be thy tablecloth’ – or ‘your greeting’). Located along the Via Quinctia, Malmantile too became part of Florence’s defensive system, together with Lastra a Signa, Montelupo and Empoli. A medieval festival takes place every year within the ancient walls, and today’s innkeepers are renowned for their courtesy.

4 MONTELUPO FIORENTINO

This fortified village stands near the confluence of the Arno and the Pesa Torrent. During the Renaissance, Montelupo was one of the major centres in Europe for the production of tin-glazed

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pottery (maiolica); despite the craft’s successive decline in popularity, it is still practised by some artisans here. The oldest samples are gathered in the Pottery Museum (Museo della ceramica), where some 1180 specimens are exhibited. In the main these came to light with the digs carried out at the old kilns.

Nearby, on the Arno’s left bank, is the majestic Villa Medicea L’Ambrosiana, built in the XVI century by the Grand Duke Ferdinand I de’ Medici. From the XIX onwards the villa served as a Judiciary Psychiatric Hospital; it is now being decommissioned.

Tourist Office and Pottery Museum 11 Piazza Vittorio Veneto Tel. 0571 518993 Opening times: Tue-Sun 10am-7pm. Closed Monday Admission: € 5 www.museomontelupo.it

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Empoli Empoli 6 is located on the Lower Arno Plain. It numbers 48,000 inhabitants and belongs to the Province of Florence.

Its historic centre rises on the left bank of the Arno and has been a settlement ever since Roman times, probably as a riverine port at the crossroads of the Via Quinctia and the Via Salaiola – the latter being the road used for transporting rock salt from the quarries of Volterra.

In the wake of the Battle of Montaperti (September 1260), in which Siena’s Ghibellines defeated the Guelphs of Florence, a council was held at the Ghibelline Palace of Empoli, which would decide the fate of Florence and the future of Tuscan history.

Empoli’s economy is traditionally centred around agriculture, the presence of Sammontana (a food giant) and, until the XX century, the glass industry, which still has a visible profile in the city.

EMPOLI TOURIST INFORMATION POINT 41 Via G. Del Papa. Tel. 0571 757622 www.inempoli.it (also in English) Opening times: Mon-Sat 8am-1.30pm and Mon-Thu 2.30pm-6.30pm www.toscananelcuore.it

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EMPOLI

1 PIAZZA FARINATA DEGLI UBERTI

The heart of Empoli, nicknamed ‘Piazza dei Leoni’ (Lions) by the locals, after the marble fountain with its four felines. The piazza is bordered by porticoes and the city’s most important historic buildings. The Collegiata di Sant’Andrea, a V-century country church around which Empoli grew, is a prime example of Florentine Romanesque – its green and white marble façade reminiscent of San Miniato al Monte and the Baptistery of St John in Florence. In its broad nave, above the main altar, we find a tryptych by Lorenzo di Bicci: Madonna on the throne amid the Saints. In one of the side chapels: the XIV-century Wooden Crucifix, considered miraculous for having brought the 1399 plague to an end.

In the adjacent palazzo is the MUSEO DELLA COLLEGIATA DI SANT’ANDREA, with some masterpieces of Tuscan art from the XIV-XVI centuries. Next to this stands the PRAETORIAN PALACE. Opposite in the piazza is the GHIBELLINE PALACE, now home to the CIVIC MUSEUM OF PALEONTOLOGY. 2 PIAZZA DELLA VITTORIA

Going down Via del Giglio or Via Giuseppe del Papa, Empoli’s shopping hub, we can reach the piazza that once held the main

FARINATA DEGLI UBERTI Manente degli Uberti, known as Farinata, was a Ghibelline from a prominent and time-honoured Florentine family. After fighting in the Battle of Montaperti, he took part in the Council of Empoli, categorically opposing the resolution of the Pisan and Senese Ghibellines to raze Florence to the ground. His city was saved.

Though a Guelph, Dante pays homage to Farinata in his Divine Comedy, remembering him among illustrious Florentines and describing him as proud and fearless.

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market and find the Santuario della Madonna del Pozzo (Madonna of the Well). Built in the XVII century, the sanctuary enshrines the miraculous image of the Madonna and Child with Four Saints, which survived a fire, unblemished.

MUSEUMS 3 Museo della Collegiata 3 Piazza della Propositura Tel. 0571 76284 Opening times: Tue-Sun, 9am12pm and 4-7pm. Closed Monday Admission: â‚Ź 3,10 Founded in 1859, it is one of the oldest ecclesiastical museums. The art collection is on the upper floor, its exhibits ranging from the late XIV and early XV centuries, including Lorenzo Monaco and Filippo Lippi.

The visit includes the Church of St Stephen of the Augustinians.

4 Empoli Museum of Glass 70 Via C. Ridolfi 70 Tel. 0571 76714 Opening times: Tue-Sun, 10am7pm. Closed Monday Admission: â‚Ź 3,10 www.museodelvetrodiempoli.it The museum is housed in the disused Salt Warehouse, built in the

second half of the XIV century to store and distribute rock salt quarried in the mines of Volterra.

The exhibition documents the history of glass manufacture in Empoli, and its unfluence on the local economy, community and urban development.

5 Casa del Pontormo 97 Via Pontorme Tel. 0571 993652 Opening times: Thu and Fri, 10am-1pm. Sat and Sun 4-7pm Admission free www.visit.inempoli.it Birth house of Jacopo Carucci, known as Da Pontormo, Mannerist painter and portraitist from the Florentine School. The nearby Church of St Michael holds an altar piece featuring The Archangel Michael and John the Evangelist.

EMPOLI

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Eating and drinking

EMPOLI

As anywhere else in Tuscany, bread and oil feature highly in Empoli. So too game, from pheasant and hare to boar, with the neighbouring villages each offering distinct recipes. Bianco dell’Empolese is a popular, light, delicate and fragrant white recommended with fish and vegetables – notably artichoke.

Compared with the common varieties, Empoli artichokes do not have spines, ripen later (March to June) and are renowned for their tender and compact consistency; their intensity of taste veers towards the bitter-sweet.

EATING AND DRINKING 6 LA RONDINELLA 10 Via Luigi Paladini Tel. 0571 79012 In the historic centre, offering traditional Tuscan delicacies.

7 OSTERIA N°30 30 Via Gelsomino Tel. 0571 73989 Open Monday to Friday – dinner only on Saturday www.osteria30.com

Warm and informal, this inn too serves local traditional fare.

8 PASTICCERIA GAGGIOLI E VEZZOSI 8 Via Del Giglio Tel. 0571 72122 Open Tuesday to Sunday, 7am-1pm and 4-8pm www.pasticceriagaggiolievezzosi.com Craft pasticceria and café in central Empoli – since time immemorial.

EVENTS , Second Saturday in May: Mercatale Farmers’ Market. Fruit, vegetables, oil, wine and other seasonal produce from the local farms.

Piazza della Vittoria, Empoli. , Corpus Christi, May/June (variable): Flight of the Donkey. Traditional feast commemorating the victory over San Miniato. An ass – these days, thankfully, not a real one – is hung from a pulley and ‘flown’ from the Collegiata belfry down to the gallery at Palazzo Ghibellino. www.volodelciuco.it

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5 SAN MINIATO

See Pisa-Siena chapter in The Via Francigena (p.157).

6 FUCECCHIO

See Pisa-Siena chapter in The Via Francigena (p.155).

8 BIENTINA

Despite losing its medieval mask, Bientina still flaunts four towers and the keep that once adjoined its formidable walls. Within the burg, in the Church of Santa Maria Assunta, is where the remains of (another) St Valentine are kept: Bientina’s own patron saint and miracle worker. One was safe from the Devil, it was claimed, provided that the bells of Bientina were within hearing distance. The Church of St Dominic houses the Etruscan Museum, with exhibits from the civilisation’s early period to the EtruscanRoman one, brought to light from the Bientina marshes.

Every year, Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II gets decked in earth to host the Palio in honour of St Valentine, with Bientina’s quarters thrashing it out on horseback.

9 VICOPISANO

Also a medieval burg, Vicopisano is one of the best preserved in Italy, with its X-century castle at the foot of Mount Pisano.

From the XII onwards it took on a strategic role of primary

FROM FLORENCE TO PISA

7 SANTA MARIA A MONTE

This upland village between the Cerbaie Hills and the Arno was long contended by Florence, Lucca and Pisa during the Middle Ages, owing to its strategic position. A single road, lined with its dwellings, twists up to the ridge where the castle once stood.

Casa Galilei is the birthplace of Galileo’s father; Casa Carducci is Giosuè Carducci’s childhood home. The Nobel Prize winner (1835-1907) is regarded as the official National Poet of modern Italy.

Santa Maria a Monte belongs to the internationally recognised District of Leather Production (Comprensorio del Cuoio), which also includes the Comunes of Santa Croce sull’Arno, Castelfranco di Sotto, Montopoli in Val d’Arno and San Miniato, in the Province of Pisa; and Fucecchio in the Province of Florence. The leather industry here numbers approximately 900 businesses, employing some 10,000 people,

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importance in defending Pisa from incursions launched by Lucca and Florence. It eventually fell to the latter, in 1406. In contrast to other citadels, which would normally see their fortifications dismantled in the wake of defeat, Vicopisano’s were enhanced.

In 1438 Filippo Brunelleschi designed its 32-m Rock, now open to visitors at weekends. Other medieval edifices have also withstood the test of time, including the Praetorian Palace (XIV century), numerous tower houses, 13 military towers (XI-XV centuries) and the country church of St Mary (X century). www.viconet.it

FROM FLORENCE TO PISA

10

ULIVETO TERME

Squeezed between the brisk Arno and jagged Mount Pisano, the area has long been associated with the production of lime and river transport. Until the first half of the XX century the most common occupations here were quarry worker and boatman – or navicellaio, who sailed a navicello: this compact and flat sailing barge, with one or two masts, was used to ferry goods or people along the river. Uliveto’s spring has been recognised since the Middle Ages for its thirst-quenching and beneficial properties. The first scientific analyses of its water, in the XIX century, led to the creation of the Terme di Uliveto; the first bottling plant was inaugurated in 1910. Uliveto is now one of the most popular

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mineral waters in Italy and widely drunk to ease liver, kidney and gastro-intestinal complaints. The early Romanesque (VIII century) church in the spa gardens is dedicated to St Martin.

11

ROCCA DELLA VERRUCA

12

TOWER OF THE UPEZZINGHI

As you arrive at the hamlet of Caprona, you cannot fail to notice the intriguing tower propping itself up on what is left of a hill, largely nibbled away by excavation. It is in fact an XIX-century copy of a medieval castle that once belonged to the Upezzinghi, a time-honoured Pisan family mentioned in the XXI Canto of the Inferno. Dante himself took part in the siege of Caprona on 16 August 1289, and he recounts – not without pleasure – the humiliation of the Pisan Ghibellines.

13

CALCI CHARTERHOUSE

This former Carthusian monastery was founded in 1366 at the foot of the Monti Pisani. The Baroque design of the monumental complex, however, reflects its XVIII-century architectural recasting. Inside the charterhouse we can visit the monastic quarters and the Museum of Natural History of Pisa University.

Museo Nazionale della Certosa Monumentale di Calci (Charterhouse) 79 Via Roma, Calci Tel. 050 938430 Opening times: Tue-Sat 8.30am-6.30pm, Sun 8.30am-12.30pm.

Closed Monday Admission: € 5 www.sbappsae-pi.beniculturali.it Museum of Natural History 79 Via Roma, Calci Tel. 050 2212970 Opening times: Summer 10am-8pm, Winter 9am-7pm Admission: € 4 www.msn.unipi.it

FROM FLORENCE TO PISA

This ruined fortification lies at the summit of Mount Verruca (537 m), to the back of Uliveto Terme. It has been the theatre of much bloodshed between Pisans and Florentines throughout the XV century. The vista from the Rock embraces the entire Plain of Pisa as far as the coast to the west, the metal-bearing hills to the south, and San Miniato south-east. The fort also acted as a beacon enabling communication between neighbouring castles and towers, in their defence of Pisa.

14

MEDICEAN AQUEDUCT

The provision of drinking water had been one of Pisa’s main concerns for centuries, when the Grand Duke Ferdinand de’ Medici, in the late XVI century, ordered the construction of an aqueduct to feed water into the city. the structure was completed in 1613 and is still clearly visible on the plain that separates Pisa and Asciano, where the source is located. The aqueduct comprises 954 arches built in brick; it is 9 km long and now skirted by a cycling track.

15

SAN MICHELE DEGLI SCALZI

A few metres from the Arno bank, along the tree-lined Viale della Piagge, rises the church of St Michael of the Discalced (or Barefoot monks). The belfry of this XII-century church leans at a forbidding angle of 5° – a notch above the more celebrated Tower of Pisa – in the wake of some serious subsidence in recent times along the riverbank.

The adjacent monastic complex has now been restored with the addition of a modern glass structure, and together they house a contemporary art centre, the Centro Espositivo San Michele degli Scalzi.

SMS, Exhibition Center at San Michele degli Scalzi Viale delle Piagge, Pisa Tel. 050 8669200 Opening times: Tue-Fry 5-8pm, Sat-Sun 12am-8pm. Closed Monday.

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EATING AND DRINKING

BAR PASTICCERIA VEZZOSI 13 Corso Giuseppe Garibaldi, Montelupo Fiorentino Tel. 0571 51095, Open daily Long-established craft pastry shop in the centre of Montelupo.

CAFFETTERIA TABOIS IN 10 Largo Roma, Bientina Tel. 0587 755625, Open daily Café/pizzeria with a wood-fired oven and al fresco tables.

LOCANDA DEL BOCCIO 9/11 Borgo Venezia, Bientina Tel. 0587 935783, Open daily www.locandadelboccio.it Traditional Tuscan fare with a contemporary take. Even the gluten-free bread and pasta are home-made.

RISTORANTE PIZZERIA CHEZ MES AMIS 228 Via Provinciale Vicarese, Vicopisano, Tel. 050798789 Open daily. Closed Thursday chezmesamis.jimdo.com Both regional and traditional Italian.

Meat, fish and pizza are all on the menu and served in a homely and comfy ambience.

OSTERIA VECCHIA NOCE 39 Località Noce, Vicopisano Tel. 050 788229, Open daily.

Closed Wednesday www.osteriavecchianoce.it Located in a XVIII-century olive oil mill in the tiny medieval burg of Noce. Tuscan cuisine with hand-chosen seasonal produce.

Pasta and desserts are all handmade.

TRATTORIA DA CINOTTO 132 Via Provinciale Vicarese, Uliveto Terme, Tel 050 788043 Open daily. Closed Saturday Reservation appreciated Traditional family-run trattoria serving honest and authentic Tuscan fare.

EVENTS , June: Malmantile Medieval Fair www.festamedioevalemalmantile.it , June: International Pottery Festival, Montelupo Fiorentino.

Exhibitions featuring pottery old and new. www.museomontelupo.it , Third Sunday in July: St Valentine’s Palio, Bientina.

Equestrian challenge and pageantry in the central square, as Bientina celebrates its patron saint. , First weekend in September: Vicopisano Medieval Fair. www.festamedievalevicopisano.it

FROM FLORENCE TO PISA

GELATERIA MALAGIGI 86 Corso Giuseppe Garibaldi, Montelupo Fiorentino Tel. 0571 51616, Open daily One of the best craft gelaterias in Montelupo.

Buti

Fucecchio

2

Pisa

Parco Naturale Migliarino - San Rossore Massaciuccoli

A1

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Fium Elsa e

Palaia

Livorno

Collesalvetti

Volterra

Sovicille

0

N 15 km

Monteroni d’Arbia

Monticiano

Siena

Castelnuovo Berardenga

Chiusdino

Radicondoli

Casole d’Elsa

Colle di Val d’Elsa

Castelnuovo di Val di Cecina

San Gimignano

Montecatini Val di Cecina

Castellina in Chianti

Greve in Chianti

Poggibonsi Monteriggioni Certaldo

Castelfiorentino

Lajatico

Santa Croce San sull’Arno no Miniato

Altopascio

San Casciano in Val di Pesa

Montelupo Tavarnelle Fiorentino Val di Pesa Montespertoli Cerreto Empoli Guidi

Quarrata Signa Carmignano

Pontedera San Giuliano Terme Ponsacco Cascina

Lucca

Porcari Capannori

Borgo a Mozzano

Pescia

A 11

Montecatini Terme

Serravalle Pistoiese

RA 3

Fiume Ar

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The Via Francigena The earliest record of the Via Francigena dates from the year 990, when the Archbishop Sigeric returned to Canterbury from Rome on foot – a pilgrimage of 1600 km – keeping a diary of the 80 stages (submansiones in Latin) of his itinerary through Italy, Switzerland, France and England.

The Via Francigena – or Franchigena, Francisca or Romea – was not a single road but rather a bundle of routes that led pilgrims from France to Rome during the Middle Ages.

After the fall of the Roman Empire, the redundant consular routes gave way to rough wayfarers’ tracks that would converge at populated areas, hostels, abbeys, passes or crossings.

It was the Longobards, around the VII century, who created a new route over the Apennines across today’s Cisa Pass, spurred

OFFICIAL SIGNAGE

THE VIA FRANCIGENA

There are signs, stickers and arrows to guide anybody walking the Via Francigena. They bear the image of a pilgrim and the words ‘Via Francigena’; there may also be a stone nearby with the initials ‘VF’.

For cyclists there are stickers and white/blue arrows stating ‘CicloVia Francigena’ and/or the symbol of the pilgrim within a bike wheel. Please note that our recommended itinerary does not follow the official CicloVia Francigena route all the way.

VIA FRANCIGENA ON THE INTERNET WWW.VIEFRANCIGENE.ORG Official site of the European Association of the Francigena Ways detailing their history, route, services, news and events along the way. (Also in English)

WWW.VISITTUSCANY.COM Official site of the Tuscany Region, including a section about the Via Francigena within its borders. General info on the itinerary and related events. (Also in English)

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by the need to connect the capital of their kingdom, Pavia, with the duchies of central and southern Italy. With the arrival of the Franks, the route was named Francigena (literally, ‘originating in France’) and became the main link between northern and southern Europe.

By the start of the X century, as well as being popular with traders and armies on the march, the Via Francigena was also serving pilgrims headed for the three Holy Sites of Christianity: Jerusalem, Santiago de Compostela and Rome, the so-called Major Pilgrimages (Peregrinationes Maiores).

THE VIA FRANCIGENA

VIA FRANCIGENA AND SIGERIC’S JOURNEY Via Francigena and Sigeric’s journey Today’s Via Francigena route in Italy consists of 45 stages. It starts at the Alpine crossing from Switzerland known as the Great St Bernard Hill, and currently finishes in Rome.

The chart below lists the Via Francigena stages that we ride from Lucca to Monteroni d’Arbia, alongside the original submansiones walked by Sigeric.

Via Francigena Stages 28th From Lucca to Altopascio:

18.5 km 29th From Altopascio to

San Miniato: 29.0 km 30th From San Miniato to Gambassi

Terme: 23.9 km 31st From Gambassi Terme to

San Gimignano: 13.4 km 32nd From San Gimignano to

Monteriggioni: 30.9 km 33rd From Monteriggioni to Siena:

20.6 km 34th From Siena to Ponte d’Arbia:

25.7 km

Archbishop Sigeric’s Submansiones XXVI Luca, today’s Lucca XXV Forcri, today’s Porcari XXIV Aqua Nigra,

today’s Ponte a Cappiano XXIII Arne Blanca, today’s Fucecchio XXII Sce Dionisii, today’s Borgo

San Genesio, near San Miniato XX Sce Maria Glan., today’s Pieve

di Santa Maria Assunta at

Chianni, near Gambassi Terme XXI Sce Peter Currant., today’s

Pieve dei Santi Pietro e Paolo

at Coiano, near Castelfiorentino XIX Sce Gemiane,

today’s San Gimignano XVII Aelse, near Colle di Val d’Elsa XVIII Sce Martin in Fosse, today’s Molino d’Aiano, in the Comune of Colle di Val d’Elsa XVI Burgenove, today’s Abbadia at Isola near Monteriggioni XV Seocine, today’s Siena XIV Arbia, today’s Ponte d’Arbia, near Monteroni d’Arbia

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The considerable flow of traffic along the Via Francigena stimulated the growth of countless settlements and alternative routes connecting them. To reach Italy, pilgrims from northern Europe would traverse the Alps over the Great St Bernard Pass (from today’s Switzerland); while those arriving from Santiago would cross from France over the Moncenisio (Mont-Cenis) or Monginevro (Montgenèvre) passes. The routes then joined up and continued along the Po Plain and the Apennines as far as Lucca, Siena and, finally, Rome.

Pilgrims aiming to reach Jerusalem would carry on southwards along the Roman Appian and Trajan Ways as far as Brindisi, in Apulia. From this Adriatic port, they would then set sail for the Holy Land.

The Via Francigena has resurfaced from centuries of oblivion quite recently and been declared – along with the Camino de Santiago de Compostela – a European Cultural Route by the Council of Europe. It is also part of the EuroVelo cycle network: EuroVelo 5 – Via Romea (Francigena).

These are essential documents for any committed pilgrim.

The Credential is where pilgrims collect stamps of all the places that have provided them with accommodation as far as their destination; once completed, they can claim the Testimonium, which certifies that the pilgrimage to Rome, devotionis causa (‘by reason of devotion’), has been accomplished.

The Testimonium is only granted to pilgrims who have completed no less than the final 100 km on foot, or 200 km by bike.

The Credential can be bought at: - Tourist Information Office of Lucca, located at Piazzale Verdi.

Tel. 0583 583150. Opening times: daily 9am-7pm - Tourist Information Office of San Miniato, located at 1 Piazza del Popolo.

Tel. 0571 42745.

Opening times: Mon 9am-1pm and Tue-Sun 9am-5pm - Tourist Information Office of Monteriggioni, located at 23 Piazza Roma.

Tel. 0577 304834.

Opening times: April to October 9.30am-1.30pm and 2-6pm - Bookshop of Santa Maria della Scala in Siena, located at 1 Piazza Duomo.

Tel. 0577 534511.

Open daily 10.30am-6.30pm

THE VIA FRANCIGENA

PILGRIM’S CREDENTIAL AND TESTIMONIUM

Lucca Tourist Office

Museums

Monuments and historical sites 1 Piazza dell’Anfiteatro

8 Puccini Museum Casa Natale 9 Domus romana

2 Duomo di San Martino 3 Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Reparata 4 Torre Guinigi

Hotels 17 Hotel Melecchi 18 Hotel Bernardino

and pubs

19 Hotel San Marco

10 Gli Orti di Via Elisa

20 Hotel Rex

11 Antica Drogheria

21 Hotel Ilaria

5 Torre delle Ore

Sant’Antonio 13 Il Giglio

Frediano

Taddeucci

Restaurants

12 La Buca di

6 Basilica di San

16 Pasticceria

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14 Osteria Baralla

7 Chiesa di San Michele

15 Caffetteria Ristorante

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LUCCA

Lucca Lucca is renowned for its mighty defensive walls – a cyclist’s ‘must-do’ – as much as for the unusually rich heritage of religious buildings enclosed within. The City of a Hundred Churches, as it is known, rises on the plains that stretch from the foothills of the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines to the north, and Monte Pisano to the south, on the left bank of the River Serchio.

Historically, Lucca gained military and commercial significance under Longobard rule, strategically placed as it was along the Via Francigena – the main pilgrim route linking the Plain of the River Po and beyond to Rome itself. From the XII century virtually until the Unification of Italy, Lucca maintained its autonomy as a city state.

Its province now includes – besides the sweep known as Lucchesia – the coast of Versilia to the east and, to the north, the belt of Garfagnana Apennines and the Serchio’s Middle Valley.

Lucca’s economy is principally based on tourism, commerce and the manufacturing industry. The paper industry, which dates to the XIV century, is one the area’s traditional trades.

The name is believed to derive from the early Celtic-Ligurian Luk, a marshland where the Liguri and possibly the Etruscans settled before the arrival of the Romans.

Lucca became a Roman colony in 180 BC and was declared a municipium (city) a century later. In 56 BC Caesar, Pompey and Crassus met in Lucca and created the First Triumvirate. The urban layout, with its right-angled streets, the remains of the theatre under the Church of St Augustin and with its Piazza Anfiteatro, bears witness to a remarkable Roman heritage.

THE PROVINCE OF LUCCA IN FIGURES SURFACE AREA: 1,773 square kilometers POPULATION: 391,228 SIX LARGEST TOWNS BY POPULATION: Lucca: 89,225; Viareggio: 63,338; Capannori: 46,498; Camaiore: 32,567; Pietrasanta: 24,238; Massarosa: 22,500

TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE OF LUCCA Located at Piazzale Verdi. Tel. 0583 583150 Opening times: daily 9am-7pm

LUCCA

History of the city

LUCCA

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After the fall of the Western Roman Empire Lucca came under the control of the Ostrogoths and Byzantines.

In the VI century Saint Fridianus, Bishop of Lucca, reclaimed much of the land adjacent to the city by rerouting the waters of the Serchio.

With the advent of the Longobards and, subsequently, the Franks, Lucca became capital of the Duchy of Tuscia and enjoyed a period of prosperity centred on the production and trade of textiles, boosted by its control of the Via Francigena.

From the XII century onwards, benefiting from Emperor Henry IV’s concessions of greater autonomy, Lucca became a ‘Free Comune’, controlling a territory within a 10-km radius – the so-called ‘Six Miles’.

During the second half of the XIII century Lucca, like other Tuscan cities, entered the fray involving Guelfs and Ghibellines, siding with the former. Although its brief alliance with Florence brought some significant territorial expansion, the many internal tensions between White and Black Guelfs (landholding aristocracy and mercantile middle class, respectively) led to a period of instability – which included, on 14 June 1314, the sack of Lucca by Uguccione della Faggiola, overlord of Pisa. Uguccione was in turn driven out by Castruccio Castracani, who established himself as chief magistrate of Lucca until his death in 1328, the event prompting a period of decline.

1372 marked the resurgence of Lucca as a Republic, thanks to its merchants, and in 1400 Paolo Guinigi was elected Lord – finally ushering in peace and economic recovery.

LUCCA ON THE INTERNET WWW.TURISMO.LUCCA.IT Official homepage of the City Council with information about Lucca’s history, culture, museums and events. (Also in English)

WWW.TURISMOLUCCA.COM A commercial website listing services, accommodation and restaurants for visitors in and around Lucca. (Also in English)

WWW.LUCCATOURIST.IT Province of Lucca official tourism website, with information on what to visit, events, leisure facilities, guided tours, markets and where to eat. (Also in English)

WWW.MADEINLUCCA.COM Run by the Province of Lucca, promoting the district and particularly its gastronomy. (Also in English)

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In 1429 Lucca was besieged by Florence and, with Guinigi driven out, became once again a Republic. Although the city had lost much of its territory and subsequently been reduced to a city state (with comparatively less autonomy), it continued nonetheless to thrive as a major centre of silk production and trade until at least the XVI century – when numerous mercantile families, having embraced Protestantism, were forced to flee in the face of a Florentine crusade supported by the Papacy.

Between the XVII and XVIII centuries Lucca returned to peace and prosperity, without becoming embroiled in international politics; it was during this period – in 1645 – that the final stretch of walls was completed.

In 1799, with the arrival of Napoleon’s troops, Lucca’s period as an independent republic came to an end. The city was annexed to the Principality of Lucca and Piombino, under the rule of Elisa Bonaparte. The Congress of Vienna in 1815 led to the creation of the Duchy of Lucca, under the Bourbons. The city was then absorbed within the Grand Duchy of Tuscany in 1847, before becoming an integral part of the Kingdom of Italy soon after.

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The best in brief 1 PIAZZA DELL’ANFITEATRO

The piazza, as its name suggests, was once the Roman amphitheatre. The remains of the theatre’s external perimeter have been largely integrated within the fabric of the surrounding buildings, hence the shape of the piazza. The amphitheatre was originally located outside the city walls; today the site lies within, on the northern side of the city. The architect Nottolini directed the reconstruction of the piazza during the first half of the XIX century, following the original curve of the arena.

The piazza is now called ‘Del Mercato’ – Market Piazza.

2 CATHEDRAL OF SAINT MARTIN

Consacrated in 1070, its façade now bears a ‘lopsided’ portico – the last arcade on the right being smaller – and its XIII campanile rises to one side, elegant and imposing. The construction of the Cathedral carried on into the XV century, with a number of Florentine architects adding to its design.

The façade is covered in swathes of white and green marble, with three overlapping loggias (galleries), intricately carved and decorated.

The portico is richly embellished with sculptures, notably The Deposition and The Adoration of the Magi by Nicola Pisano.

Works of art abound within the Duomo as well, two of which are considered symbols of Lucca: the sarcophagus of Ilaria del Carretto by Jacopo della Quercia; and the wooden crucifix known as The Holy Face, venerated by pilgrims since the Middle Ages.

The nearby Cathedral Museum displays paintings, furnishings and statues covering its millennial history. www.museocattedralelucca.it Piazza Antelminelli. Tel. 0583 490530 Cathedral: open daily 9.30am-7pm, admission € 3 Museum: open daily 10am-7pm, admission € 4 Combined ticket for Cathedral+Museum+Tower+Basilica of Sts John and Reparata € 9

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HOLY FACE The wooden crucifix and reliquary preserved in the Cathedral of St Martin have been worshipped by pilgrims along the Via Francigena ever since the Middle Ages. Legend has it that this acheiropoieta (image created without human hand) depicting the True Face of Christ was found by the disciple Nicodemus. In order to salvage it, it was loaded on to an unmanned boat and left to the winds. The vessel is said to have

reached Porto di Luni near La Spezia and translated to Lucca in 742. The retelling of the story by merchants and pilgrims from Lucca resulted in the crucifix becoming known throughout Europe, and from the XII century onwards copies of the ‘Holy Face’ or ‘Holy Face of Lucca’ began to circulate. Coins forged in Lucca from the XIII and XVIII centuries onwards also bear the effigy of the Holy Face.

Wife of Paolo Guinigi, Lord of Lucca from 1400 to 1430, Ilaria died prematurely aged 26. The marble and stone sarcophagus was commissioned by her husband from Jacopo della Quercia, who took two

years to complete it. Considered one the highest examples of XV-century Italian funerary sculpture, the sarcophagus – which does not enclose Ilaria’s spoils – is located in the sacristy.

3 BASILICA OF SAINTS JOHN AND REPARATA

Originally built in the IV century with the baptistery, its current architecture dates to the XII century when it was reconstructed. While the XX-century archaeological digs brought to light the structure of the Early Christian basilica, the baptistery has revealed five strata of ruins corresponding to the historical milestones of Lucca.

Located in Piazza San Giovanni

LUCCA

ILARIA DEL CARRETTO

LUCCA

4 GUINIGI TOWER

Among the few towers still standing within its walls, this is one of the most iconic monuments of Lucca. It was commissioned by the most powerful of all merchant families here in the XIV century, the Guinigi, on the corner of Via Sant’Andrea and Via delle Chiavi D’Oro (St. Andrew/Golden Keys), as a symbol of their rule.

With its 44 m, the tower dominates the city centre; above it grows a hanging garden, shaded by its famous secular holm oaks. Climb the tower’s 230 steps and admire Piazza Anfiteatro, the Apuan Alps north-west. the Apennines north-east and Mount Pisano to the south. www.lemuradilucca.it Via S. Andrea. Tel. 0583 583086 Open daily, spring-summer 9.30am-7.30pm, autumn-winter 9.30am-4-30pm Admission: € 4. Combined ticket with Torre delle Ore € 6 5 TORRE DELLE ORE

At 50 m, the Tower of the Hours is Lucca’s highest. It owes its name to the clock built into it in the XV century. The current mechanism, manually loaded and the work of a Swiss clockmaker, dates to 1752. The top is reached by climbing the original wooden staircase (207 steps).

Via Fillungo Open daily, spring-summer 9.30am-7.30pm, autumn-winter 9.30am-4-30pm Closed from November to February Admission: € 4. Combined ticket with Torre Guinigi € 6

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Piazza San Frediano Open daily 9am-6pm. Closes 30 min. before religious functions Admission: € 3

7 CHURCH OF SAINT MICHAEL

The Romanesque church of St Michael (XI century) is named – as its Italian title of San Michele in Foro suggests – after the area where the Roman Forum once stretched. It houses some remarkable marsterpieces: the tin-glazed terracotta Madonna and Child by Luca della Robbia; the tempera on panel Four Saints Jerome, Roch, Sebastian and Helen by Filippino Lippi; and the crucifix in painted wood attributed to the Lucchese School of the first half of the XII century.

Piazza San Michele. Tel. 0583 53576 Open daily: 8.30am-12pm and 3pm-6pm Admission free

LUCCA

6 BASILICA OF SAINT FRIDIANUS

According to tradition, it was built over a pre-existing religious building by the will of Fridianus himself, an Irish pilgrim who became Bishop of Lucca in the second half of the V century.

The upper part of the façade is decorated with a large mosaic in the Byzantine style, depicting Christ the Redeemer ascending to Heaven, created by XIII-century craftsment from Lucca.

The white stone covering the outside of the basilica and the capitals of the columns within were sourced from the amphitheatre. A pair of internal frescoes retell two significant chapters from the town’s history: the rerouting of the Serchio and the translation of the Holy Face.

The Trenta Chapel houses a marble polyptych by Jacopo della Quercia, depicting the Mother and Child and four saints.

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8 PUCCINI MUSEUM–BIRTH HOUSE

The home where the composer was born and lived into his youth is a short walk from Piazza San Michele, on the second floor of a historic house. Among the displays are furniture, autograph scores and a plethora of Puccini memorabilia, including the piano on which he wrote Turandot and the costume worn for its title role at the Metropolitan Opera’s première in 1926, in New York. The museum bookshop and ticket office are located opposite the Puccini statue in the nearby Piazza Cittadella. www.puccinimuseum.org 9 Corte San Lorenzo. Tel. 0583 584028 Open daily, times variable. Closed on Monday Admission: € 7

LUCCA

GIACOMO PUCCINI Giacomo was born into a family of musicians in Lucca in 1858, the sixth of nine children – the Puccinis having held the position of Maestro di cappella at the cathedral for four generations. He initially studied music locally, then at the Milan Conservatoire, from 1880 to 1883.

The success of his third opera, Manon Lescaut (1893), enabled Puccini to return to Lucca, and he

settled at Torre del Lago, near Lake Massaciuccoli. International fame soon followed with La Bohème (1896), Tosca (1900) and Madama Butterfly (1904).

Passionate about hunting and motoring, he commissioned the first off-road car in history from Vincenzo Lancia: a vehicle with a reinforced chassis and clawed wheels. He died in Brussels 1924.

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9 DOMUS ROMANA

The ‘Roman House’ archaeological site came to light in 2010 in the course of restoration work in the basement of Palazzo Orsucci. An open-plan space reveals the layers of construction over the last 2000 years and the way building technique has evolved – notably from Roman times (I century BC in this case) to the Renaissance era, the cellars being built in brick and designed with ample vaults. The Domus is named ‘House of the Child upon the Dolphin’ after a terracotta frieze depicting two children riding dolphins. www.domusromanalucca.it 15 Via Cesare Battisti. Tel. 0583 050060 Open daily 9am-1pm and 3-7pm Admission: € 3

Erected betweeen 1513 and 1648 and a prime example of modern fortification, Lucca’s walls have never needed to serve their defensive purpose, and thus remain perfectly intact. The perimeter stretches to 4223 m and includes 6 gates, 11 bastions and a number of military structures. The 124 artillery pieces once positioned on the ramparts were transferred to

Mantova after the Austrian occupation. The Bourbon Duchess of Lucca, Maria Luisa, is credited with the transformation of the walls into a public promenade, in the early XIX century. To this day, they are enjoyed as a vast park providing a range of recreational facilities and venues for outdoor events. www.lemuradilucca.it

LUCCA

THE CITY WALLS

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LUCCA

Eating and drinking Lucca’s cuisine broadly belongs to the Tuscan culinary tradition, a notable difference being its bread, which is salty.

Dense soups and vegetable pies bear witness to the richness of the local produce. Cereal and vegetable soups are often accompanied by pancetta and hams – spelt zuppa and the hearty garmugia being prime examples. Torta con gli erbi (literally, pie with grasses) is baked using seasonal greens. Two local dishes based on maize flour are farinata lucchese (with borlotti beans, black cabbage and tomatoes) and matuffi, a soft polenta with mushrooms, cheese and meat gravy.

Starters include tordelli, similar to ravioli, with a filling of meat, bread crumbs and eggs.

Among the meat dishes: rovelline (beef slices – first fried, then cooked in a tomato sauce with capers), and rabbit stewed with vegetables and herbs. The local fish delicacy is roasted baccalà (stockfish) served with chickpeas.

Lucca’s most celebrated desserts are castagnaccio (baked with chestnut flour), buccellato (a sweet bread with raisins and aniseed) and torta co’ becchi: a soft short-crust pie, both sweet and savoury.

The wines produced on the hills of Lucca (Colline Lucchesi) have long earned their DOC appellation.

CHINA MASSAGLI Pronounced ‘Keenah’, this mildly alcoholic drink is a classic Lucchese digestivo. It is brewed by pulping a mixture of roots and aromatic herbs with the bark of Cinchona Officinalis, an evergreen plant from the Amazon Rainforest. It was created in 1855 as an antimalarial drug at the Massagli pharmacy, still located in Piazza San Michele. With the disapperance of malaria, the elixir became popular as an amaro (bitter digestivo) and was much in vogue during the inter-war years. www.massagli.com

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EATING AND DRINKING Open daily. Closed Sunday www.osteriabaralla.it Near Piazza Anfiteatro, housed in former stables. Some exclusive recipes in addition to the traditional, and a good selection of wines and home-made desserts. Indoors and al fresco.

Price range: € 25-45

ANTICA DROGHERIA 5 Via Elisa Tel. 0583 467732 Open daily www.anticadrogherialucca.it Historic restaurant dating back over a century. Lucca classics, plus pizza in a woood-fired oven.

Price range: € 25-45

15 CAFFETTERIA RISTORANTE SAN COLOMBANO 6 Rampa Baluardo San Colombano Tel. 0583 464641 Open daily www.ristorantesancolombanolucca.it Located within an ancient rampart along the walls of Lucca. Tuscan and Lucchese delicacies, plus pizza.

12 LA BUCA DI SANT’ANTONIO 3 Via della Cervia Tel. 0583 55881 Open daily. Closed Sunday at dinner and Monday www.bucadisantantonio.com Highly popular, its Lucca specialities all cooked with fresh local produce.

Pasta is hand-made every day.

Price range: € 25-45

16 PASTICCERIA TADDEUCCI 34 Piazza San Michele Tel. 0583494933 Open daily, 8am-8pm www.buccellatotaddeucci.com Historic pastry shop, celebrated since 1881 for its buccellato. The recipe for this Lucchese sweet bread has been handed down through five generations.

11

13 IL GIGLIO 2 Piazza del Giglio Tel. 0583 494058 Open daily. Closed Tuesday and Wednesday at lunch www.ristorantegiglio.com Right on Piazza del Giglio: Lucchese cuisine with a twist.

Indoors and al fresco.

Price range: € 25-45 14 OSTERIA BARALLA 9 Via Anfiteatro Tel. 0583 440240

LUCCA

10 GLI ORTI DI VIA ELISA 17 Via Elisa Tel. 0583 491241 Open daily. Closed Wednesday and Thursday at lunch www.ristorantegliorti.it Near Porta Elisa, offering traditional Lucchese dishes along with pizza tasting. Indoors or al fresco.

Price range: € 25-45

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A STROLL THROUGH LUCCA

LUCCA

2.1 km / 1.5 hr Our walk can but start at the magnificently quirky Piazza dell’Anfiteatro.

We soon spot the majestic mosaics on the façade of the Basilica of St Fridian as we catch Via Fillungo – the heart of Lucca’s historic centre, with its craftshops and boutiques. At the crossroads with Via dell’Arancio, look up and see the Torre delle Ore, tall and proud. Immediately after, turn right into the narrow alleyway on the corner of Casa Barletti-Baroni, which leads to the back of the Church of St Michael, its white front dominating the piazza. Directly opposite we find Via di Poggio, which takes us to Puccini’s birth house. Leaving the loggia/gallery of Palazzo Preterio to our left, we head down Via Vittorio Veneto as far as the broad piazza dedicated to Napoleon, where we find the Ducal Palace – the seat of Lucchese power from the XIV century onwards. Cross the adjacent Piazza del Giglio and on the opposite side head down Via Duomo, which leads to the Basilica of Sts John and Reparata – and, shortly beyond, the Duomo, also known as the Cathedral of St Martin. Next, through Via dell’Arcivescovado and Via della Rosa, we pass by the Church of St Mary Foris Portam; carrying on along Via Angelo Custode we reach the district that was once the domain of the all-powerful Guinigi family. The tree-topped tower, symbol of Lucca, cannot be missed: it stands on the corner of Via delle Chiavi d’Oro, which takes us back to PIazza dell’Anfiteatro.

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, April: Lucca Film Festival – an international event never shy to showcase experimental work. luccafilmfestival.it , First weekend in April: Verdemura (literally, ‘Greenwalls’) – a fair championing the great green outdoors enjoyed on the walls of Lucca. www.verdemura.it , 12 July: Palio della Balestra – Lucca’s ancient crossbow contest marking the feast of St Paulinus, the city’s patron saint. Crossbowmen from the three districts challenge the opposition as they aim at their target 36 m away. An evening event, preceded by a historic procession. , July: Lucca Summer Festival – a musicfest held within the city walls, in Piazza Napoleone. Beloved by international solo artists and bands. www.summer-festival.com , First weekend in September: Murabila – high-end gardening fair held atop the walls. www.murabilia.com , 14 September: Feast of the Exaltation of the Holy Cross – an ancient Catholic festivity, specifically observed in Lucca in connection with the city’s famous Holy Face. Do not miss the procession held on the 13th, the Luminada di Santa Croce, as it wends its way to the Cathedral of St Martin, accompanied by the strains of the mottettone, the city’s band. , End October-November: Lucca Comics and Games – offers what it says on the can (and the box), also showcasing Italy’s videogames wizardry. www.luccacomicsandgames.com , Year-round: Puccini and his Lucca International Festival – the only permanent festival anywhere dedicated to the Tuscan composer.

Held in the Basilica of Sts John and Reparata, 7pm.

April-October: daily November-March: Thursday, Friday and Saturday only Reservations: 340 8106042 www.puccinielasualucca.com

LUCCA

EVENTS

Santa Maria del Giudice

0

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Colignola

Bientina

CascineLa Croce

5 km

Cascina

Montecavoli

1

A1

Anchione

Cerretti

Staffoli

Galleno

Pinete

Ca

Massarella

Le Botteghe

Stabbia

Ponte a Egola

Castelfranco San Donato di Sotto

6

Porciano

Forrottoli

Mastromarco

Cerbaia

San Miniato

San Miniato Basso Ponte a Elsa

Bassa Pieve Empoli a Ripoli Marcignana Arno me Fiu

Cerreto Guidi

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From Lucca to San Miniato From Piazza Anfiteatro we take to the Via Francigena pilgrim route and progress through the Plain of Lucca. Passing through the small towns of Capannori and Porcari, we reach the ancient Abbey of St Peter (Badia di San Pietro) and then Altopascio, well known since the Middle Ages for providing shelter to pilgrims.

After riding through the woodlands of the Cerbaie Hills, we descend into the marshlands of Fucecchio near Ponte a Cappiano bridge. A climb up the hillock at Fucecchio offers great views across the Arno Valley and the hills of the Elsa.

Once across the Arno, the Rock of San Miniato will be our reference point – as far as that concluding climb on foot, along the pilgrims’ way.

Museo Archeologico Athena 74 Via Carlo Piaggia Tel. 0583 428784 Open daily 9-12am. Closed Sunday Admission free www.capannori-terraditoscana.org

THE VIA FRANCIGENA

1 CAPANNORI

The district of Capannori, one of the largest comunes in Italy, lies between Mount Pisano to the south and the Apennines to the north. It is traversed by the historic Via Francigena on its plain – these days a more densely populated affair than in the Middle Ages. In the town centre we find a Stamping Point (for Via Francigena pilgrims) at the Athena Archaeological Museum; the Pieve di S. Quirico e Giulitta, founded way back in the mid700s as a country church, bears witness to Capannori’s rural origins.

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2 PORCARI

Porcari once sat on the shores of Lake Sesto (or Bientina), the largest in Tuscany until its draining in the XIX century.

The name is believed to derive from Portus Carolis (‘Charles Port’), although the pig farming that almost certainly took place here in Longobard times probably contributed to its moniker.

While no trace remains of the medieval castle that once dominated from the hilltop, the neogothic façade of the Church of San Giusto, on slightly higher ground, testifies to Porcari’s more recent history. www.museoporcari.it 3 ABBEY OF SAINT PETER

THE VIA FRANCIGENA

On Porcari’s threshold – just beyond the crossing with the SP 61 road – are the ruins of the Badia di San Pietro, a monastic centre that thrived between the X and XIV centuries.

Archaeological digs at the abbey, conducted by the universities of Pisa and Ohio State since 2011, have brought to light a number of medieval burial sites.

THE KNIGHTS OF TAU Probably the oldest order of religious knights in Europe, it was founded in Altopascio to assist pilgrims and maintain the local roads, waterways and bridges.

The name derives from the letter T (Tau in Greek), which appeared on the cloaks worn by the friars: it symbolised the crutch, which alluded to their service as carers, as well as the tools of their trade (hammer and pickaxe). The T also denoted the thaumaturgical nature of the knights, as miracle workers.

The order flourished in the XII and XIII centuries, and new hospitaller houses were also founded in France, Spain, Germany and Britain, with a more general mission to provide care for the sick.

An ecclesiastical confraternity was founded in 2008, their role to offer assistance to pilgrims travelling the Via Francigena: the (deep breath) Storica Compagnia degli Insigniti Cavalieri del Tau o di San Jacopo d’Altopascio. www.compagniacavalierideltau.it

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4 ALTOPASCIO

Altopascio’s origins are found in the XI century when, at the behest of Lucca, a spedale was built here – a hospital to provide care at a point along the Via Francigena that had been particularly dangerous and unhealthy for pilgrims at the time: the swamps between Lake Sesto and Fucecchio.

The spedale soon became a vital facility and its management was entrusted to the Order of the Knights of Tau. In the XIV century Altopascio was repeatedly besieged as Florence, Pisa and Lucca fought over territory, and dragged into ruination. This led to the suppression of the order in 1459 and, in 1773, the closure of the hospital.

What remains of the medieval structure are the Romanesque façade of the Church of San Jacopo (St James), the cloisters and the belfry.

Altopascio’s tradition for hospitality also survives, however, and today’s pilgrim is accommodated in a hostel owned by the town council.

THE VIA FRANCIGENA

Tourist information office 10 Piazza Garibaldi Tel. 0583 216525

THE BREAD OF ALTOPASCIO

Altopascio’s traditional bread is made with sourdough (sconcia) rather than brewer’s yeast; it requires a steeping time of 24 hours and is produced daily. This provides a naturally leavened bread with a slightly bitter and unsalted taste. It can be either quadrangular or elongated, and bears a mark to certify its quality.

5 PONTE A CAPPIANO AND ITS BRIDGE

Once out of the woods of the Cerbaie Hills, the Via Francigena leads into the Marshes of Fucecchio (see p. 91), where it crosses the Usciana Canal.

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In his account of the itinerary, Bishop Sigeric mentions this bridge, which was of great importance to the Knights of Tau. Today’s structure was built in the first half of the XVI century under Cosimo de’ Medici, to control the waterflow and guarantee navigation between Lake Sesto, the Fucecchio Marshes, the Arno and the sea.

6 FUCECCHIO

The town’s highest point is Poggio Salamartano, which offers unique views across the Plain of the Arno. Here we also find the Church of Saint Saviour (San Salvatore), the Collegiate of St John the Baptist and, within the grounds of the Parco Corsini, the ruins of an XI-century castle.

EATING AND DRINKING

Luccan traditional pastries and an imaginative line of vegan ones too.

PANIFICIO PASTICCERIA IL BUON PANE 15 Piazza Umberto I, Altopascio Tel. 0583216411 www.panificioilbuonpane.it

Bakery/cafeteria renowned for its traditional Altopascio bread.

OSTERIA NUMERO UNO 1 Via Romana Lucchese, Ponte a Cappiano Tel. 0571 297001 Opening times: Mon-Fri for lunch and dinner, Sat dinner only.

Closed Sunday

A short walk from the Medici Bridge. Classic Tuscan dishes.

EVENTS , May: Palio di Fucecchio. A costumed cast of over one thousand, as the local Contradas take up the equestrian challenge amid the medieval pageantry. , 25 July, Saint James’s Feast: traditional Festa del Calderone – a cauldron full of zuppa is paraded through the streets of Altopascio.

Just help yourself.

THE VIA FRANCIGENA

PASTICCERIA TOSCHI 76 Via Roma, Porcari Tel. 0583 297306 www.toschipasticceria.it Opening times: Mon-Sat 7am-12.30pm and 4-8 pm.

Closed Sunday

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13 Camilla Gelateria Yogurteria

12 Osteria l’Upupa

11 Pizzeria Vecchio Cinema

10 Pepenero

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San Miniato is known as the ‘City of the Tuscan Twenty Miles’, being almost exactly 35 km equidistant from Pisa, Lucca, Pistoia and Florence. It is also nicknamed the ‘City of the Truffle’ on account of its celebrated white fungus.

During the Middle Ages San Miniato became an imperial stronghold standing guard over the Via Francigena, and ‘Frederick’s Rock’ – the tower built by the Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II – still stands atop the highest hill of the village. A centennial symbol of San Miniato, it is also a landmark for travellers crossing the Plain of the Arno.

Agriculture, crafts – leatherwork especially – and tourism account for the lion’s share of its economy.

TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE OF SAN MINIATO Located at 1 Piazza del Popolo. Tel. 0571 42745 www.sanminiatopromozione.it (also in English) Opening times: Mon 9am-1pm and Tue-Sun 9am-5pm

SAN MINIATO ON THE INTERNET WWW.SANMINIATOPROMOZIONE.IT Information about San Miniato’s history, culture, museums, itineraries, services and events. (Italian only)

WWW.PISAUNICATERRA.IT Province of Pisa official tourism site: what to visit, events, leisure facilities, guided tours, markets and where to eat. (Also in English)

S A N M I N I AT O

San Miniato

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History of the city While archaeological works have brought to light evidence of settlement from the Etruscans onwards, the earliest written record of San Miniato dates from 713 AD: it establishes the existence of a church erected by a community of Longobards and dedicated to Miniatus the Martyr.

Thanks to its strategic position, from the X century onwards San Miniato became one of the Holy Roman Empire’s administrative hubs in central Italy, and in 1218 Frederick II had a castle built here. Since the imperial seat of power was based in northern Europe, however, for most of the Middle Ages the citadel was referred to as San Miniato al Tedesco – ‘San Miniato [to] the German’.

After the end of Hohenstaufen rule, the town declared itself a Free Comune, eventually coming under Florentine control in the XIV century.

In 1622 a bishopric was established at San Miniato at the behest of the Archduchess Maria Maddalena of Austria, wife of Cosimo de’ Medici. In the wake of this, the city developed both architecturally – with the construction of the Sanctuary of the Most Holy Cross and the Seminary – and culturally. A major scientific-literary society was also established: the Accademia degli Euteleti (see below).

During the Second World War, the Cathedral of San Miniato was the theatre of a civilian bloodbath, when it was hit by an

ST GENESIUS ARCHEOLOGICAL ZONE A few kilometres from San Miniato, at Ponte a Elsa, recent digs have uncovered the ancient burg of San Genesio/Vico Wallari, a settlement of Etruscan origins at the confluence of the Arno and Elsa rivers. This was along the Roman Via Quinctia, which linked Pisa and Florence.

With the Via Francigena growing in popularity in the course of the Middle Ages, the burg too gained a certain status. The community gradually migrated to San Miniato,

and in 1248 the hamlet was destroyed. The museum displays numerous artifacts from different times. The burg of St Genesius marked the 22nd stage of Sigeric’s itinerary.

Located on the SS 67 road, where it crosses Via di Capocavallo Opening times: variable Admission: € 2.50.

Combined ticket: Sistema Museale di San Miniato € 5

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American artillery shell. Frederick’s Rock too was razed to the ground, this time by the Germans, who viewed its position as a potential menace; it was rebuilt in 1957.

NAPOLEON AT SAN MINIATO A painting entitled Entrance of Napoleon I at San Miniato by Egisto Sarri describes the former’s visit to his elderly uncle, the canon Filippo Buonaparte, on 2 July 1796 after the occupation of Livorno. The military leader – who was Corsican but had Tuscan roots – is featured on a white horse entering the burg’s main piazza, with the Tower of Frederick II in the background.

The canvas is kept at Palazzo Formichini, now a bank. A little beyond Piazza Buonaparte stands the Bonaparte family’s palazzo, recognisable by the commemorative plaque.

Palazzo Formichini, located at 45 Via IV Novembre Palazzo Buonaparte, located at 4 Via Paolo Maioli

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MUSEUMS The network known as Sistema Museale di San Miniato includes edifices and collections owned by the following: Council of San Miniato (Frederick’s Rock and Loreto Oratory); the Diocese (Diocesan Museum of Sacred Art, Tower of Matilda and Via Angelica – including chapels of St Urban and St Peter); Archconfraternity of Mercy (Misericordia Collection); Conservatory of St Clare Foundation (Museum of St Clare); Accademia degli Euteleti (both the palazzo and its collections).

The Sistema Museale combined ticket costs € 5 and is on sale at any of the sites.

Accademia degli Euteleti Founded in the XVII century as the Academy of the Entrusted (Accademia degli Affidati), this is one of Tuscany’s oldest scientificcultural institutions. It was given its definitive name in 1748, at the height of the Age of Enlightenment: the Eutheletes were ‘Men of Good Will, pursuing a worthy cause’. The Accademia’s premises are in Palazzo Migliorati and its collections include books, prints, models, and a death mask of Napoleon Bonaparte – the latter’s anatomical precision suggesting that it was probably moulded as an original, unlike most others.

Tel. 348 7187908

Located at 21 Piazza XX Settembre Opening times: Wed-Sun 3-6pm Admission: free

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The best in brief 1 CHURCH OF SAINT DOMINIC AND VIA ANGELICA

Originally dedicated to St Jacob/James and St Lucy, this church was later endowed to Dominican friars, who built a convent next door during their tenure (XIV-XX centuries). Although the façade was never completed, the church includes within a number of chapels and altars inside, commissioned by San Miniato’s noble families.

To the left of the façade is the gateway to one of the most atmospheric corners in San Miniato: the Via Angelica, a centuriesold passageway once used by the country folk to reach the centre of town. A stroll down the Via Angelica rewards the visitor with three chapels, decorated with frescoes executed between the XIV and XVII centuries.

Located at Piazza del Popolo San Miniato Tourist Office, tel. 0571 42233 Via Angelica: open Mon-Fri 9-12am and 2.30-7.30pm, Sun 3-6pm.

Closed Sat Admission: € 2.50.

Combined ticket: Sistema Museale di San Miniato € 5

S A N M I N I AT O

2 PIAZZA DEL DUOMO

The Cathedral Piazza lies within the city walls and is connected to Frederick’s Rock by means of a stairway. Its northern end looks over the Arno Plain, while the opposite side is bordered by buildings that once housed the imperial court and the communal administration: in the middle sits the Bishop’s Palace, once the seat of the ‘Captains of the People’ (citizens of rank who managed the town’s affairs); to the left, the Church of St Mary of the Assumption and St Genesius; and the ‘Palace of the Curates’ is to the right.

The Cathedral of St Miniatus was originally the country church of the imperial curates, and acquired its present-day features through the extension work ordered by Frederick II. The tower rising behind it, the Torre di Matilde, dates from the XII century; it is open to visitors. Legend has it that the formidable Matilda of Tuscany (or of Canossa), a feudal margrave of remarkable influence, was born in the adjoining Palace of the Curates.

After 1622, the year it became a bishopric, the Cathedral was enhanced with a series of architectural and decorative refurbishments. The original sacristy is now the Diocesan Museum of Sacred Art.

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The Palace of the Curates was built in the X century as a defensive bastion. In the ensuing centuries, with San Miniato becoming the Empire’s seat of power in Tuscany, the palazzo opened its doors to an impressive roll of visiting Holy Roman Emperors, from Frederick I Barbarossa to Otto IV, Henry IV and Frederick II. Today the building is a hotel, the Miravalle.

Diocesan Museum of Sacred Art Piazza del Duomo. Tel. 342 6860873 Opening times: April to September Mon, Tue and Sun 10am-1pm and 2-4pm Admission: € 2.50.

Combined ticket: Sistema Museale di San Miniato € 5

3 EPISCOPAL SEMINARY

A theatrical backdop to Piazza della Repubblica, the Seminario Vescovile was created in the XVIII century. The façade is unusual on account of its curved sweep, as well as the T-shaped doors: these solid timber structures once served as benches and stalls for the craft workshops. The upper floors are decorated with inscriptions and allegorical figures.

S A N M I N I AT O

4 SANCTUARY OF THE MOST HOLY CRUCIFIX OF CASTELVECCHIO

To the rear of the Cathedral stands the Sanctuary dedicated to a wooden cross held to be miraculous. By the legend, two pilgrims (angels?) left this simulacrum in the care of a humble widow; after placing it in a trunk, she noticed that a light was shining through, and the crucifix became a symbol of peace and harmony for the citizens of San Miniato. It was initially placed in the Loreto Oratory and then, in the XVIII century, transferred to the present-day Sanctuary; this was created by the community as an ex-voto offering of thanks for the end of the 1631 plague. The internal walls are entirely covered in frescoes depicting the Life of Christ; above the High Altar rises the Crucifix, which has been dated to the XI century.

5 TOWN HALL AND LORETO ORATORY

When San Miniato became a Free Comune, this palazzo was assigned as the seat of local government – and so it remains to this day.

The premises of the Oratorio del Loretino are on the ground floor. It is graced with a cycle of XV-century frescoes and a sumptuous wooden tabernacle, which holds an effigy of the

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Virgin Mary of Loreto. A collection of local archaeological finds is displayed in the sacristy. On the first floor we find the Hall of the Seven Virtues: once the Council Chamber, it is frescoed with both religious and secular images painted between the late XIV and the XVI centuries.

Located at 8 Via Vittime del Duomo Open weekends Admission: â‚Ź 2.50.

Combined ticket: Sistema Museale di San Miniato â‚Ź 5

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6 FREDERICK’S ROCK

The tower at the top of the hill was constructed between 1217 and 1223 at the behest of the Emperor Frederick II. The views from its 30-m summit gave control right across the territory below, from the Lower Arno Valley to the hills of Volterra, as far as the Apennines and the sea. The Rock was also used to imprison political prisoners – including, tradition has it – Pier delle Vigne, Frederick’s notary, accused of treason and remembered

by Dante in the Divine Comedy. Razed by the Germans in 1944, it was rebuilt using the same masonry techniques, and to the same size, as the original.

Opening times: April to September Tue-Sun 11am-6pm.

Closed Monday Admission: € 3.50 Combined ticket: Sistema Museale di San Miniato € 5

7 CONVENT OF SAINT FRANCIS

S A N M I N I AT O

On the hillside across from Piazza Duomo stands a monumental convent founded in 1211, most probably by St Francis himself. Along one of the naves in the church are numerous works of art from the XVII and XVIII centuries.

Located at Piazza S. Francesco

Eating and drinking There is considerable pride in San Miniato for the unusual range of local produce, beyond the treasured white truffle: the local Ribbed Tomato, the San Miniato Artichoke and the extra virgin oil extracted from Mignola olives are but three examples – the latter being deep green, fruity to the nose, and with a rich bitter/ peppery taste.

A San Miniato speciality recently acknowledged by the Slow Food Society is the mallegato, a sausage made with spiced and cooked pig’s blood. The local cantucci are also a must-try: these amber and porous biscotti are double-baked and have quite a crunch. Wine production abounds, offering excellent reds and whites, as well as sparkling and fortified varieties.

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THE WHITE TRUFFLE OF SAN MINIATO

Being the most difficult variety of all to forage, the Tuber magnatum (‘of the Lords’) is also the most prized.

The fungus grows in late summer, autumn and winter, a few centimetres deep. It will only develop in damp, clay-rich soil, near a waterway and in broad-leaved woodland. While it is fairly common on the hills of Alba in Piedmont, where an international fair is held every year, it is also very much at

home here. The National White Truffle Festival and Market of San Miniato has been an annual event since 1969. In 1954 these hills yielded the largest Magnatum ever recorded, weighing in at 2.520 kg; it was given to the US President, Eisenhower.

8 PIAZZA DEL POPOLO 10 Piazza del Popolo Tel. 057142548 Open daily. Closed Wednesday www.piazzadelpopolo.eu Wine bar serving food, accommodated in a historic palazzo in San Miniato’s main piazza.

PROSCIUTTERIA SAN MINIATO 8 Via Ser Ridolfo, Tel. 0571 419195 Open daily. Closed Monday www.prosciutteriasanminiato.it Informal ambience, local meats and a decent glass of wine.

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10 PEPENERO 13 Via IV Novembre Tel. 0571 419523, Open daily.

Closed Tuesday and Saturday lunch www.pepenerocucina.it Traditional fare and local produce with a modern Tuscan twist.

Price range: € 30-50.

11 PIZZERIA VECCHIO CINEMA 30 Via IV Novembre Tel. 0571 42518, Open daily at dinner. Closed Monday www.pizzeriavecchiocinema.it Tuscan antipasti, starters and a good choice of pizzas.

12 OSTERIA L’UPUPA 15 Via Augusto Conti Tel. 0571 400429, Open daily.

Closed Thursday www.ristorantelupupa.com A classic if compact osteria with traditional Tuscan fare. Booking essential.

13 CAMILLA GELATERIA YOGURTERIA 24 Via Augusto Conti 14 IL CANTUCCIO DI FEDERIGO 67 Via Maioli Tel. 0571 418344 www.ilcantucciodifederigo.com Artisan pastry shop and wine bar, celebrated for its home-baked panettone and Tuscan pastries.

S A N M I N I AT O

EATING AND DRINKING

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A STROLL THROUGH SAN MINIATO

S A N M I N I AT O

1.5 km / 1 hr Setting off from Piazza del Popolo, we leave the Church of St Dominic and the entrance into Via Angelica to our right and follow the signs for the Municipio (Town Hall). Immediately beyond the arch is Piazza della Repubblica, where we can take in the façade of the Episcopal Seminary.

On the right of the piazza, a covered stairway leads under the Bishop’s Palace and into the airy and panoramic Piazza del Duomo. From here, we follow the path to the top of the hill to Frederick’s Rock. Skirting the left side of the Cathedral, we arrive at the Sanctuary of the Crucifix, recognisable by its dome. Once down the monumental stairway, we find ourselves in front of the Palazzo del Comune (or Municipio – Town Hall) and the Loreto Oratory. To conclude our walk we can either head uphill to the right and return to Piazza della Repubblica (and from there to Piazza del Popolo); or alternatively head downhill to the left towards Piazza Buonaparte: from there head to the Church of St Francis, and then back to Piazza del Duomo.

EVENTS , First Sunday after Easter: Festival of Kites (Aquiloni), on the lawns beneath Frederick’s Tower. www.festadegliaquiloni.it , 23 June: Fires of St John, on the meadows by the Rock. Bonfires are lit to mark the end of the harvest. , Last three weekends in November: National White Truffle Festival and Market.

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From San Miniato to Colle di Val d’Elsa

1 CASTELFIORENTINO

During the Middle Ages, here where the Elsa flows at the valley’s bed, the Via Francigena crossed the Via Volterrana – one of Tuscany’s oldest roads, which connected Volterra and Florence.

Clinging to the hill is the XI-century country church of Sts Hippolytus and Blaise; nothing remains of the castle.

In the lower part of town, between the Elsa River and Piazza Gramsci, is the Benozzo Gozzoli Museum, focusing on this XVcentury Florentine painter and his frescoes, which once decorated the walls of the shrines along the Via Francigena here.

There is a sanctuary near the bridge dedicated to the local patron saint, Verdiana, who came from Castelfiorentino. It is a rare example of Elsa Valley Baroque architecture.

BEGO Museo Benozzo Gozzoli Via A. Testaferrata, Castelfiorentino Tel. 0571 64448 www.museobenozzogozzoli.it Opening times vary. Closed Wednesday Admission: € 3

THE VIA FRANCIGENA

An exhilarating – if considerable and challenging – stage, traversing the valley beds and ridges of the Elsa Valley, a land contended for centuries by Florence and Siena, dotted with picturesque fortified villages.

Leaving the hills of San Miniato, we freewheel into the Elsa valley and follow the river as far as Castelfiorentino, the start of today’s first proper climb.

Once in Gambassi Terme, we drink in the views from Piazza Roma before plunging towards Certaldo, the town of Renaissance writer and humanist Boccaccio: welcome to the Land of Chianti.

Then uphill again, on the Pancole road, at the end of which appear the ‘Fair towers of San Gimignano’.

Like every true pilgrim, we shuffle through town on foot, unrushed. A gelato in the piazza is a just reward before we saddle up again and head for Castelfiorentino, the City of Crystal.

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2 GAMBASSI TERME

Just before Gambassi, on the left, is the Romanesque country church of St Mary at Chianni, mentioned by Sigeric in his pilgrim’s diary, with its XII-century façade.

The medieval hamlet of Gambassi, with its typical stone and brick walls and narrow alleyways, rises at the top of a hill; it is reached from Piazza Roma, which affords magnificent views.

A short distance from the piazza, within the public gardens, are the thermal spas.

Terme della Via Francigena 1 Piazza di Vittorio, Gambassi Terme - Tel. 0571 638863 www.termeviafrancigena.club

3 CERTALDO

This medieval burg has survived the centuries intact and is rather unusual in not having a main piazza. Its heart is in fact the street named after its most illustrious son, Giovanni Boccaccio. A funicular links Piazza Boccaccio, in the lower reaches of Certaldo, with the burg, where we find the writer’s house/museum. Here too are the Church of Sts James and Philip, and the Museum of Sacred Art – famed for its XIII-century

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wooden crucifix, Christus Triumphans. At the far end of Via Boccaccio stands the Praetorian Palace, proud with its brick façade and coats of arms of local medieval curates. The exhibition at the palazzo focuses on the administration of medieval justice: the galleries are themed accordingly (Hearings Hall, Dungeons, Curate’s Hall), and the visit includes the nearby church with a fresco entitled Tabernacle of the Sentenced (1465), Benozzo Gozzoli’s masterpiece. The Museum of Nails holds a quirky compendium of tools and nails from various times.

THE VIA FRANCIGENA

Musei di Certaldo www.comune.certaldo.fi.it

Praetorian Palace, Piazzetta del Vicariato. Tel. 0571 661219 Casa del Boccaccio, Via Boccaccio. Tel. 0571 664208 Museum of Nails (Museo del Chiodo), Palazzo Giannozzi.

Tel. 0571 661265 Opening times: April-October, daily 9.30am-1.30 pm and 2.30-7pm

Museum of Sacred Art, Piazza SS. Iacopo e Filippo.

Tel. 0571 661219 Opening times: April-September, Tue-Sun 10am-5.30pm.

Closed Monday Combined ticket: Praetorian Palace, Casa del Boccaccio and Museum of Sacred Art € 6 Admission: Museum of Nails € 1

BOCCACCIO AND CERTALDO Boccaccio is considered, along with Dante and Petrarch, one of the fathers of the Italian language. His best-known work, the Decameron, bore enormous influence on European literature, inspiring among others Chaucer’s Canterbury Tales.

It has not been established whether in 1313 Boccaccio was born in Certaldo or in Florence; what is certain, however, is that this is where he died in 1375. He was buried in the nearby Church of Sts James and Philip, where he rests to this day.

Boccaccio’s legacy is kept alive not only through the places and monuments associated with him, but also through events celebrating

the (often bawdy) poet’s work: these include a literary prize, a medieval dinner and a gastro-fair featuring local delicacies.

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THE CERTALDO ONION

Remembered by Boccaccio in the Decameron, this prized bulb has been cultivated in Certaldo since time immemorial and even appears in its coat of arms. There are two types of Certaldo onion, picked at different times: Statina, harvested between May and August (round, light purple and sweet); and Vernina, picked in September (also round but deep red and pungent in taste).

Pancole, San Gimignano Tel. 0577 955083 santuariodipancole.org Opening times: Mon 3.30-8pm, Tue-Sun 9am-1pm and 3.30-8pm

5 COUNTRY CHURCH OF CELLOLE

Very near Pancole – a short diversion from our itinerary – is the Romanesque Church of St Mary of the Assumption of Cellole, one of the earliest and most noteworthy pieves (country churches) in the Elsa Valley. Built around the X century, it is perched on a picturesque hillock, surrounded by meadows, vineyards and olive groves – a complex managed and cultivated by the Monastic Community of Bose.

Cellole, San Gimignano Tel. 0577 946057 www.monasterodibose.it

THE VIA FRANCIGENA

4 SANCTUARY OF PANCOLE

Just beyond the village of Pancole comes the sanctuary dedicated to the Mother of Divine Providence, on the spot where a frescoed shrine stood in the XV century bearing the image of the Virgin breastfeeding the Child. Over time the place became neglected and overgrown, until a young shepherdess had a vision of the Madonna pointing her to the concealed shrine. Within just two years, in 1668, a church was built. Despite the damage sustained during the Second World War, the sanctuary preserves to this day the original fresco.

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EATING AND DRINKING PASTICCERIA DEI 1 Via Testaferrata, Castelfiorentino Tel. 057164638 Closed Wednesday deipasticceria.it One of San Gimignano’s favourite pastry shops.

OSTERIA DEL PELLEGRINO Via Volterrana, Borgoforte Tel. 0571 638714 Open daily 10am-6pm. Closed Wednesday Tuscan homespun cooking and pizzeria.

THE VIA FRANCIGENA

PANIFICIO PASTICCERIA BURRESI 50 Via Volterrana, Gambassi Terme Tel. 0571 638374 www.panificioburresi.com Popular bakery and pasticceria.

PONTORMO CAFFÉ 34 Via Volterrana, Gambassi Terme Tel. 0571 638130 Open daily 6am-9pm.

Closed Sunday Bar, pizzeria, focacceria, rosticceria (deli), tavola calda (snack bar), street food.

JAM CAFÉ 1 Piazza Giulio Masini, Certaldo Basso, Tel. 0571 664499 Open daily 6am-9pm. Closed Wednesday Croissants and pastries every bit as good as the coffee. Near Certaldo train station.

NANDINO 3.0 33 Via 2 Giugno, Certaldo Basso Tel. 345 783 3730 Open daily 7am-11pm. Closed Monday Caters for all appetites – lunch or dinner, snack or meal.

OSTERIA DA CHINCHIBIO 4 Via Boccaccio, Certaldo Alto Tel. 0571 662504 www.osteriadachichibio.com Open daily 10am-6pm Tuscan fare, local wines. Near the Praetorian Palace.

RISTORANTE LEONETTO At Pancole, near Hotel Le Renaie, San Gimignano Tel. 0577 955044. www.hotellerenaie.com Opening times: bar open daily.

Restaurant daily except Tuesday Ideally located after the Pancole climb for a brisk lunch or just a refresh.

EVENTS , Mid-July: Mercantia, Certaldo’s international festival of street theatre: shows, music, crafts. www.mercantiacertaldo.it , October: Boccaccesca, Certaldo’s acclaimed food event, focusing on local produce and dishes. www.boccaccesca.it

6 San Gimignano has earned its UNESCO World Heritage Site status on account of its historic centre, which has preserved its medieval urban layout virtually intact.

The town grew in repute after the year 1000, thanks mainly to the Via Francigena. Once a minor village under the dependency of Volterra, in 1199 San Gimignano declared itself a Free Comune. It continued to grow and thrive until 1348, when it was struck by the Black Death. Then, as now, a tower was a symbol of power, and it is believed that within the walls there were no fewer than 72.

After the plague, San Gimignano slid into a long decline and eventually fell under Florentine rule. For centuries the town was all but abandoned; many of its towers crumbled or were demolished for their stone.

In spite of this, the 14 towers still standing have made San Gimignano – also nicknamed the ‘Manhattan of the Middle Ages’ – one of the most visited towns in Tuscany.

Today, besides tourism, agriculture drives the local economy with the celebrated Vernaccia di San Gimignano (a white that earned its DOC appellation decades ago) and the cultivation of saffron.

TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE OF SAN GIMIGNANO 1 Piazza del Duomo. Tel. 0577 940008 www.sangimignano.com (also in English) Opening times: March-October daily 10am-1pm and 3-7pm

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Arriving from Certaldo we enter the walled city through the 1 Porta San Matteo gate and proceed along the street of the same name, following the Via Francigena signs.

We are presented with two early options, both very worthwhile. Immediately after the archway: on the left, by taking Via Cellolese we can reach the 2 Church of St Augustine, a treasure trove of frescoes and other works of art from the XV century.

A little further on, still on the left, Via XX Settembre would take us to the 3 Polo Museale Santa Chiara complex.

Our first tower is the muscular 4 Torre Pesciolini – on our left shortly before the 5 Arco della Cancelleria, another gate into the city.

Immediately after, we have the 6 Twin Towers of the Salvucci on the right and, opposite, the more modest 7 Torre Pettini.

Soon, we are right in the heart of San Gimignano: 8 Piazza Duomo.

Among the palazzos looking into the square are, from left to right: 9 Torre Chigi and 10 Torre Rognosa (ca. 1200) which, at 52 m, soars above the Palazzo Vecchio del Podestà (Old Mayor’s Palace).

Next to the loggia gallery stand the Palazzo del Popolo, home of the Civic Museum; and 11 Torre Grossa – open to the public and, at 54 m, the tallest in town.

At the top of the stairway rises the Duomo: in spite of its bare façade, the cathedral’s interior is decorated with frescoes throughout and preserves many other works of art too.

If we go up the neighbouring Piazza Erbe, in the shadow of the Cathedral’s belfry, we can visit the 12 Rock of Montestaffoli and enjoy the Vernaccia di San Gimignano Wine Experience. Immediately after the loggia, 13 Piazza della Cisterna opens out, at its centre the octagonal cistern that gave it its name. On the right we find the 14 Towers of the Ardinghelli; on the left, 15 Torre del Diavolo; straight ahead, 16 Torre dei Becci.

Beyond the archway, we start descending along Via San Giovanni, where we meet 17 Torre dei Cugnanesi, 18 Torre Campatelli and, before exiting the walls, the 19 Museo della Pena di Morte (Death Sentence) and 20 Museo della Tortura (a good time, perhaps, for that gelato).

SAN GIMIGNANO

A STROLL THROUGH SAN GIMIGNANO

SAINT FINA Although the city’s official patron saint is Geminianus, a XIV-century bishop, Saint Fina (or Serafina) is quite ubiquitous here. A chapel in the Cathedral is dedicated to her, as are the hospital, the Apothecaries’ Museum, a flower and even a gelato flavour. The short life of Fina Ciardi (1238-53) was marked by great suffering and deep devotion, both

indelibly etched in the memories of San Gimignano’s folk. Stricken with a serious illness, Fina resolved to live her life in poverty, prostrate on a board of oak. Saint Fina is celebrated on 12 March, the day when, according to tradition, San Gimignano miraculously blossoms with yellow violets.

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Inside the Cathedral, besides the rich polychromatic decorations, visitors will find a cycle of XIV-century frescoes themed on the Old and New Testaments. St Fina’s chapel, in honour of the local patron saint, is the masterpiece created by three Florentine artists: Giuliano da Maiano (architect), Benedetto da Maiano (sculptor) and Domenico Ghirlandaio (painter). The adjacent Museum of Sacred Art displays religious paintings, sculptures and furnishings collected from the Cathedral and other churches.

www.duomosangimignano.it Tel. 0577 286300 Opening times: April-October Mon-Fri 10am-7.30pm, Sat 10am-5.30pm and Sun 12.307.30pm Admission: € 4 Combined ticket with Museum of Sacred Art € 6 The Torture and Death Penalty Museums assemble 100 or so exhibits – original and recreated – from the XVI century onwards. www.torturemuseum.it Located at 125 and 82 Via San Giovanni Tel. 0577 940526 / 0577 940151 Opening times: every day 10am-7pm Admission: € 10 The Vernaccia di San Gimignano Wine Experience, at Rocca di Motestaffoli, is the main centre providing information on this classic Italian white and other local produce – and the opportunity to sample them. www.sangimignanomuseovernaccia.com 1 Via della Rocca Tel. 0577 941267 Opening times: every day 11.30am-7.30pm

EVENTS , Third week in June: Ferie delle Messi. All things medieval at San Gimignano – from banqueting to crafts, dancing, jousting, and re-enactments.

SAN GIMIGNANO

The combined ticket for the Civic Museums of San Gimignano includes the Palazzo Comunale (Town Hall), Torre Grossa and the Pinacoteca galleries (all in Piazza Duomo); and the Polo Museale Santa Chiara complex, located in Via Folgòre. The latter assembles the Archaeological and Spezieria (Apothecaries’) Museums, and the city’s main exhibition space: the Gallery of Modern and Contemporary Art. www.sangimignanomusei.it Tel. 0577 286300 Opening times: April-September 10am-7.30pm Combined ticket € 9

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SAFFRON AND VERNACCIA DI SAN GIMIGNANO

The tradition of saffron cultivation in San Gimignano has mirrored the city’s fortunes since the Middle Ages at least, when the local spice was shipped across Europe and even to the Middle East.

Besides its popularity in the pot, saffron was also used as a dye and paint on account of its rich yellow, as well as in medicine.

Today’s Zafferano di San Gimignano is strictly protected by appellation and marketed in its natural state (as dried stigmas) to guarantee its quality and origin.

Vernaccia di San Gimignano too, like saffron, can boast a long history: records show, for example, that in the XIII century the wine was subject to an export duty. Highly prized by the nobility and wealthier merchants of Europe, this white was also appreciated by Dante and Boccaccio, who both mentioned it.

After the downturn of the XVIII and XIX centuries, the grape variety was

finally rediscovered in the 1960s: within a few years (1966), Vernaccia di San Gimignano became the first Italian DOC-listed wine (Denominazione di Origine Controllata).

It makes for an excellent aperitivo and an ideal accompaniment to fish and white meats, as well as many antipasti.

EATING AND DRINKING RISTORANTE DORANDÒ 2 Vicolo dell’Oro, San Gimignano Tel. 0577 941862 www.ristorantedorando.it Closed Monday Small and intimate eatery. Tuscan fare with a light and creative touch.

GELATERIA DONDOLI 4 Piazza della Cisterna Tel. 0577 942244 www.gelateriadondoli.com Open daily 9am-11pm

Probably the most celebrated gelateria in San Gimignano, right in the historic centre – the place for Crema di Santa Fina, with saffron and pine nuts.

DA I’ MARIANI 19 Via Quercecchio, San Gimignano Tel. 338 2334399 Open daily 11am-9pm Pint-sized bottega – the place to feast on local meats and cheeses, washed down with a decent glass of local wine.

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Colle lies at the heart of Tuscany, between Florence, Siena and Volterra, and is renowned worldwide for its crystal production.

The oldest and residential part of town sits on the hill (Colle Alta – ‘High Hill’), while the valley floor, where the Elsa River flows (Colle Bassa – ‘Low Hill’) is where the manufacturing quarters were established from the XVI century onwards.

Colle’s main piazza is named after its most illustrious son, the medieval architect and sculptor Arnolfo di Cambio.

History of the city Although there is evidence of prehistoric presence in the Colle di Val d’Elsa area, the Etruscans – as in most of Tuscany – have left a more specific trail of permanent settlement, such as the nearby necropolis of Dometaia.

The village gained significance from the Middle Ages onwards, finding itself along the Via Francigena and within a territory constantly contended by Siena and Florence.

In the XIII century Colle’s three autonomous burgs declared themselves a Free Comune: Borgo Santa Caterina and Borgo di Castello (Piticciano Castle) on the upper side, and Borgo del Piano on the lower.

TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE OF COLLE DI VAL D’ELSA Located at 33 Via del Castello. Tel. 0577 922791 www.prolococollevaldelsa.it (Italian) Opening times: April daily 11am-5pm, May to October daily 10.30am-6pm

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Colle too became a theatre of conflict between the Guelphs and Ghibellines, and in 1269 – supported by Florence – the Comune defeated Siena in a battle remembered by Dante in the Purgatory.

Bar a few rare exceptions, Colle always remained a loyal ally of Florence and the Medici, thus also earning the right to Florentine citizenship in 1479 – and, with it, political and economic advantage.

The Elsa River, with its energy and volume, has always played a key role in Colle’s economy. Borgo del Piano, which developed around a network of medieval canals, counted a number of water-powered works – especially paper mills – through the centuries.

In the XIX century the paper industry was gradually eclipsed by the production of iron and, notably, glass and crystal. To this day, the economy of Colle Val D’Elsa is driven by crystal and glass manufacture.

COLLE DI VAL D’ELSA ON THE INTERNET WWW.COMUNE.COLLEVALDELSA.IT Official homepage of the City Council with information about surrounding villages and towns, itineraries, art, nature, food and wine. (Italian)

WWW.TERRESIENA.IT Province of Siena official tourism website: where to visit and eat, events, leisure facilities, guided tours and markets. (Also in English)

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The best in brief 1 PORTA NUOVA GATE AND VIA GRACCO DEL SECCO

To the traveller arriving from San Gimignano or Volterra, Porta Nuova appears as a proper fortress rather than a city gate, flanked as it is by two bastions and a moat. The forbidding structure was built in 1479. A bridge links the outside directly with the main street within the walls – Via Gracco del Secco, in Borgo Santa Caterina, along which we find the former Monastery of St Peter and former Hospital of St Laurence. These monumental complexes date from the XVII century and are now a museum and a hotel. Carrying on along Via Gracco, a row of palazzos – all historic family seats – leads to the Church of St Catherine, at the junction for Borgo di Castello or, alternatively (downhill), for Borgo del Piano.

CITY OF CRYSTAL The earliest record of glass production at Colle di Val d’Elsa is dated 1331, while the city’s kilns began manufacturing crystal from 1820 onwards, with the arrival of a French glassmaker, François Mathis.

The main difference between glass and crystal lies in a lower proportion of lead in the latter, which intensifies its brilliance. Lead is present in higher doses in glass to increase its

malleability; crystal, by European Standards, must contain no more than 24%. This ensures a higher proportion of barium oxide, which enhances the light’s refraction.

Colle now accounts for 15% of crystal supply wordwide and over 95% nationally, notably with designer drinking glasses and goblets.

C O L L E D I VA L D ’ E L S A

2 PALAZZO CAMPANA

Both street and palazzo are named after Francesco Campana, one of Colle’s most distinguised citizens and a counsellor at the Medici court. Designed by the architect Giuliano di Baccio d’Agnolo, the building is inspired by the aristocratic houses created in Florence in the XVI century. What distinguishes it, however, is the setting: it rises on the hillside of the dell that separates Borgo Santa Caterina from the Castle, on the original site of a fort. The bridge and arched portal lead directly into Via del Castello.

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VIA DELLE VOLTE AND SAPÌA SALVANI From the corner of Palazzo Campana we can turn into the ‘Street of Vaults’, a covered thoroughfare approximately 100 m long that runs to Piazza Duomo.

The street is associated with the fate of Sapìa Salvani, a noblewoman from Siena whom Dante confines to the Terrace of Envy in the Purgatory.

Sapìa, according to the poet, was

so jealous of her fellow citizens, that she prayed that they may be defeated in battle by Colle. When this came true, she was so jubilant that she turned to God crying that she no longer feared Him. Sienese retribution was swift: a henchman slaughtered Sapìa right here, in Via della Volte.

3 PIAZZA DEL DUOMO

C O L L E D I VA L D ’ E L S A

On the left of the piazza, next to the belfry, are the Praetorian Palace and Colle’s Cathedral. The palazzo dates from the XIV century and is recognised by its brick façade, featuring several coats of arms carved in stone. It now houses the Archaeological Museum. The Cathedral, dedicated to Sts Albert and Martial, was rebuilt from the XVII century onwards, upon a pre-existing XI-century structure.

THE HOLY NAIL Colle’s Cathedral treasures one of the nails which, according to tradition, were used for the Crucifixion of Christ – and as such one of the most coveted relics in Christianity. The other Holy Nails are kept in Milan (Cathedral Museum), Rome (Basilica of the Holy Cross of

Jerusalem) and Monza. The nail of Colle Val d’Elsa is 22 cm long and bent at the tip. If authentic, it is likely to have anchored the left foot of Jesus to the cross. The Feast of the Holy Cross is celebrated every year in September, with a procession taking the relic through town.

From Piazza del Duomo, proceeding along VIA DEL CASTELLO we come across the 4 PRIORS’ PALACE (XIII-XIV centuries), with its frescoed façade; Colle’s Tourist Information Office is on the ground floor. In the following piazza we find the 5 CHURCH OF SAINT MARY IN THE RECTORY (Santa Maria in Canonica), with its XV-century frescoes; shortly beyond, down the end of the street, rise two of the few house-towers still standing in Colle Val d’Elsa.

On the left is Torre dei Pasci; on the right, at number 63, is the 6 HOUSE OF ARNOLFO DI CAMBIO.

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7 RAMPART

At the end of Via del Castello we come to a clearing created on the Castle’s original defensive rampart. From this terrace, which affords panoramic views, a free elevator whisks visitors through a 40-m tunnel in 35 seconds, deep down to a WWII air raid shelter located in the lower part of town. Screens positioned inside the tunnel show images of the ramparts in real time, aimed at keeping the passenger in contact with the outside world.

8 CHURCH OF SAINT AUGUSTINE

In Via dei Fossi, not far from the lift’s arrival point, we soon spot the medieval façade of this church. The interior, in Renaissance style, holds works of art from the XV and XVI centuries.

ARNOLFO DI CAMBIO Colle di Val d’Elsa’s most cherished celebrity was born in the Borgo di Castello in 1240 and learned his trade at the school of Nicola Pisano, the master of Gothic sculpture.

Arnolfo’s works are kept in Rome, Perugia and Orvieto; in Florence he was active as architect and town planner, masterminding the design of the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, and refurbishin the Basilica of Santa Croce as well as, possibly, Palazzo Vecchio.

C O L L E D I VA L D ’ E L S A

9 PIAZZA ARNOLFO

The area was once criss-crossed by canals supplying the manufacturing facilities and designed to power the mills. In the second half of the XIX century it was converted into a square for markets and fairs. The piazza’s XXI-century renovation brought to light one of the original goras (waterways), a fundamental element in the city’s history. A feature of the Palazzo dell’Orologio (‘of the Clock’) is its central window, which glitters with ‘Crystal shutters’ (Persiane in Cristallo) – a quintessentially local touch.

C O L L E D I VA L D ’ E L S A

MUSEUMS 3 The Archaeological Museum preserves artifacts from the Elsa Valley, notably from the Etruscan era. www.collealtamusei.it 42 Via del Castello. Tel. 0577 286300 Opening times: currently closed for refurbishment Combined ticket with Museo Archeologico € 6 10 The Museum of St Peter is a fusion of collections tracing the city’s history through its works of art and artifacts – both religious and secular, from the Middle Ages through to the present day. www.collealtamusei.it

Via Gracco del Secco. Tel. 0577 286300 Opening times: March to October, daily 11am-5pm Combined ticket with Archaeological Museum € 6 11 The Crystal Museum is located in a XIX-century underground kiln and set amid pillars and steel girders. It tells the story of Colle di Val d’Elsa’s glassware. www.museodelcristallo.it 8A Via dei Fossi. Tel. 0577 924135 Opening times May to September: Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Closed Monday Admission: € 4

FABBRICA COLLE: CUTTING EDGE ARCHITECTURE Colle’s City Council ushered in the new millennium with an ambitious urban revamp: it focused on Colle Bassa and was entrusted to a team of artists led by architect and urban planner, Jean Nouvel. The venture included the Baluardo elevator, Piazza Arnolfo and a number of disused industrial premises. A few

steps from Piazza Arnolfo, in Via di Spugna, we can see a structure of russet metal and Elsa River stone.

To the back of the former railway station is the Building with garden roofs [sic] decked in timber and ‘landscaped’ with hanging gardens.

Other projects are still in progress.

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A STROLL THROUGH COLLE DI VAL D’ELSA

C O L L E D I VA L D ’ E L S A

1.6 km / 1h We cross Palazzo dell’Orologio in Piazza Arnolfo following an old canal – now covered with a grid – and turn right at the far end into Via dei Fossi.

Here we find the entrance to the Crystal Museum and the Church of St Augustine. Turn left after the church, and under the archway we pick up signs for the public elevator.

Once on the Baluardo (rampart), we can drink in the magnificent bird’s-eye view of Colle Bassa, with its minestrone of architectural styles. Then, onwards and up to the medieval quarter, where Arnolfo di Cambio’s house-tower soars. The legendary architect also appears – as a bust – at the corner of Piazza Canonica, where we turn into Via del Castello; here we continue up to the Palace of the Priors, with its unmistakable façade.

Once we have reached the austere Piazza del Duomo, our street dips slightly as far as Palazzo Campana: the majesty of this edifice will be fully appreciated once we arrive on the bridge – outside, that is, of the Borgo di Castello.

From here we can continue into Borgo Santa Caterina and carry on up Via Gracco del Secco as far as Porta Nuova. Alternatively, retracing just a few steps, we can turn into the atmospheric shadows of Via delle Volte and head back to Piazza del Duomo. Either Via di Mezzo or Via delle Romite will deliver us to the Baluardo rampart, and the steep cobbled street returns us to the neighbourhood of Piazza Arnolfo.

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TUSCANY

EATING AND DRINKING

C O L L E D I VA L D ’ E L S A

12 OFFICINA DELLA CUCINA POPOLARE 86 Via Gracco del Secco, Colle Alta Tel. 0577 921796 Open daily for dinner. Sunday lunch and dinner. Closed Tuesday www.ristoranteofficinacolle.it Everything at the ‘People’s Food Workshop’ is created by hand, using fresh, seasonal and local produce.

13 RISTORANTE ARNOLFO 50 Via XX Settembre, Colle Alta Tel. 0577 920549 Closed Tuesday and Wednesday www.arnolfo.com Elegant and refined, Gaetano Trovato’s restaurant has been awarded two Michelin Guide Stars.

Here too, the chef’s main principle is to use locally grown produce and seasonal flavours.

14 IL FRANTOIO 38 Via del Castello, Colle Alta Tel. 0577 923652

Open daily for dinner. Sunday lunch and dinner. Closed Thursday www.ilfrantoiorestaurant.com Set in a XIX-century olive mill, the Frantoio offers traditional and artigianale Tuscan cuisine, with a personal touch.

15 PIZZERIA TRATTORIA ARTIGIANA 9 Piazza S. Agostino, Colle Bassa Tel. 0577 921326 Open daily for lunch and dinner.

Closed Monday One of the best pizzerias in town – in the piazza of St Augustine’s.

16 L’ANTICA TRATTORIA 23 Piazza Arnolfo di Cambio, Colle Bassa Tel. 0577 923747 Open daily for lunch and dinner.

Closed Tuesday www.anticatrattoriaparadisi.it The Paradisi family offers staunchly traditional Tuscan dishes and a carefully selected range of wines to accompany them.

EVENTS , Every weekend in June: Festival of Hardship in Piazza Santa Caterina, to rediscover Tuscan food ‘as it was’ in times of penury – at its most unspoilt, inventive and flavoursome. , 1 July: Feast of St Martial, patron saint of Colle Val d’Elsa. Street food, events and crafts. , September: Gamebird Festival at Colle Bassa. Focusing on the hunter’s fare, and celebrating all things agricultural.

0

Onci

Gracciano

2,5 km

Collalto

Fiu

RA 3

Staggia 2

San Chimento

Maggiano

Scorgiano

Case Bolzano

Abbadia Isola

3

Casone

Lucerena

Strove

Acquaviva

Scarna

Selvamaggio

Ponte Santa Giulia 1 Mensanello Pian dell’Olmino Lano

Boscona

Colle di Val d’Elsa

Santa Colomba

Colle Ciupi Villa

Monteriggioni

Canale

Bracciano

4

Castellina Scalo Topina

Selvaccia

Le Querce

Siena

Le Scotte

Ascarello

Bolgione

Ponte a Bozzone

Pontignanello

Pontignano

Corsignano

Vagliadi

ColombaioVia Regioni

La Ripa

Poderuccio

Monteresi Uopini San Martino Tognazza

Poggiolo

Quercegrossa

San Leonino

Badesse

Lornano

Cignan Bianco

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Colle di Val d’Elsa–Siena

THE VIA FRANCIGENA

Leaving the Elsa Valley, we advance along the northern fringes of Montagnola Senese (‘Little Mountain of Siena’) and enjoy, midway between Colle and Siena, the celebrated medieval burg of Monteriggioni. This is a compact stage, in spite of a few stretches of rough track and the occasional up-and-down, with the added promise of a magnificent arrival point: Piazza del Campo.

1 LE CALDANE

These warm water springs, valued since Etruscan and Roman times, are located near the hamlet of Gracciano and flow into the Elsa. The original thermal baths were demolished by the Sienese in the XIII century and then partly restored in the XIX. If not widely known, they remain popular with locals during the summer.

Located near Hotel Il Petreto along SP 541 road, Gracciano 2 ROCCA DI STAGGIA

A few kilometres east of Colle Val d’Elsa rises the castle of Staggia, a fortified citadel with its XIV-century walls still intact.

Contructed from the X century onwards, it was acquired by Florence in 1361 and became a strategic outpost at its border with Siena. Now thoroughly restored and open to the public.

Located at 2 Via dell’Ospedale, Staggia Senese Tel. 366 4792092 www.laroccadistaggia.it - Open daily 10am-7pm By guided tour only – reservation required

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4 MONTERIGGIONI

Our gate into Monteriggioni is Porta Fiorentina, a rare example of virtually unscathed military architecture from the Middle Ages.

The castle was built between 1213 and 1219 by the Republic of Siena and served as a defensive outpost against Florence for centuries, as the two vied for control over Colle Val d’Elsa and Staggia.

Monteriggioni withstood many a siege without once surrendering, and only fell to the Florentines through betrayal on 27 April 1554 – exactly a year before Siena’s final submission to the Medici.

The band of walls has a perimeter of 570 metres and includes 14 towers and two gates – one to Florence, the other to Rome.

It is possible to hike the length of the battlement walkways and enjoy the views across the countryside.

THE VIA FRANCIGENA

3 ABBADIA A ISOLA

‘Island Abbey’ was once surrounded by swamps, and its lands were originally occupied by a castle, Borgonuovo, mentioned by Sigeric in his pilgrim’s diary.

The monastery was founded in 1001 at the behest of Ava, Countess of Staggia, as a hospital for Via Francigena wayfarers; it still serves pilgrims as a hostel.

The Romanesque Abbey of Sts Saviour and Cirinus, at the heart of the burg, is decorated with frescoes and an altar piece from the XV and XVI centuries.

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THE VIA FRANCIGENA

At the centre lies Piazza Roma with its well and Romanesque pieve (country church) dedicated to St Mary of the Assumption; here too is the Monteriggioni in Arms Museum, featuring a collection of weaponry and armour – mainly reproduced – from medieval and Renaissance times. Within the walls we also find a range of craft and souvenir shops, characterful restaurants and cafés.

Tourist Office, Monteriggioni in Arms Museum, Castle walkways Located at 23 Piazza Roma. Tel. 0577 304834 www.monteriggioniturismo.it Opening times: April to October 9.30am-1.30pm and 2-6pm Combined ticket Museum and Walls € 3

EATING AND DRINKING ANTICO TRAVAGLIO OSTERIA GELATERIA 6a Piazza Roma, Monteriggioni, Tel. 0577 304718, Open daily 10am-12pm www.anticotravaglio-monteriggioni.com Fresh pasta, Fiorentina T-bone steak, desserts, home-made gelato – and plenty more besides.

EVENTS , First weekends in July: Monteriggioni di Torri si Corona. The town ‘Is Crowned with Towers’ for this medieval extravaganza: re-enactments of crafts, skills and daily life. www.monteriggionimedievale.com

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Down the hills of Siena we plunge, southbound along the ancient Via Cassia, the Roman Consular road that connected Rome and Florence. Skirting the Arbia Torrent, we come to the mighty Grancia di Cuna fort and, a little further on, the hamlet of Monteroni d’Arbia.

Veering away from the Via Francigena, we head back towards Siena, traversing the iconic hills of the Crete Senesi (‘Clays of Siena’) along the road linking Ville di Corsano and Siena: one final push to rewards us with yet more glorious landscape.

‘CLAYS OF SIENA’ Quintessentially Tuscan, the hilly district southeast of Siena, the Crete Senesi, offers some of the region’s most iconic landscapes.

Clay reigns supreme here, a product of the sedimented sea basin that washed the entire province some 4.5 to 2.5 million years ago. On the south-facing slopes, the rainwater erosion has created a terrain characterised by deep grooves – calanchi – and dome-shaped formations – biancane (from the Italian word for white, bianco) – which are light in

shade and up to 10 m high. These are a particular feature of the Desert of Accona, a semi-arid area in the Asciano district.

Isolated estates and rows of cypresses along the hills illustrate how human settlement has evolved here. Livestock graze free on rich meadows, amid wider expanses of corn and sunflower; the local sheep are renowned for their milk, which yields an excellent pecorino cheese.

The central area of the Crete, near San Giovanni d’Asso, is noted for the highly-prized white truffle.

THE VIA FRANCIGENA

Siena Loop

Colombaio Colombaiolo Ficareto San Miniato

Pontignanello San Piero

Pianella Ponte a Bozzone

Le Tolfe Bolgione Le Scotte

Vico Alto

Monteaperti

Ascarello

Siena

Santa Regina Peruzzo

Montalbuccio Poggio alle Rose

Vico d’Arbia

Colonia Santa Regina

Cerchiaia

Presciano

Val di Pugna

Casetta

Bucciano Taverne Abbadia d’Arbia

Arbia

Doglia Casa Vannini Colle Malamerenda

Ginestreto Fogliano Grosso

Isola d’Arbia Ponte a Tressa Le More 1

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Monteroni d’Arbia Radi

Grotti Quinciano

Campriano

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2,5 km

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This concluding stage offers few refreshment points along the way, and packing a generous picnic will make it all the more enjoyable.

1 GRANCIA DI CUNA

The archaic term grancia denotes a fortified medieval farmstead in open countryside, which served both as a granary and a lodge for wayfarers.

A shelter for pilgrims had existed on the grounds of Grancia in the XII century; this was then bequeathed to the Hospital of Santa Maria della Scala in Siena. In the course of the following centuries the facility was extended and fortified into a complex which now consists of a stalwart square block, constructed entirely of red brick.

EATING AND DRINKING PASTICCERIA LOMBARDI 269 Via Roma, Monteroni d’Arbia Tel 0577 374597 www.pasticcerialombardi.it Open daily 9am-1pm and 4.30-8pm.

Closed Monday SAPORI DI RADI 40b Via della Fattoria, Radi, Monteroni d’Arbia Tel. 0577 1503233 www.saporidiradi.it Open daily 7am-9pm.

Closed Monday

Panini, cold meat and cheese platters, insalatonas (main course salads), traditional pastries and local wine tasting.

OSTERIA IL RISTORO 574 Via Corsano Grotti, Località Ville di Corsano, Monteroni d’Arbia.

Tel. 0577 377912 www.osteriailristoro.it Open daily 7am-10pm.

Closed Monday Café, pizzeria and restaurant, dishing up traditional fare.

THE VIA FRANCIGENA

2 MONTERONI D’ARBIA

The hamlet of Monteroni was administered by Grancia di Cuna from the XIV century onwards. It flourished after the draining of the local swamps and the construction of a fortified mill, now the main feature of the central piazza – opposite the country church of St Donatus.

The district of Monteroni d’Arbia belongs to the area known as Crete Senesi, along with the Comunes of Asciano, Buonconvento, Rapolano Terme and San Giovanni d’Asso.

Bivigliano

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Signa

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Fiume Arno

Rufina

Fiesole

Firenze

Pontassieve

Bagno a Ripoli

Scandicci

Rignano sull’Arno

Montelupo Fiorentino RA 3

A1

Impruneta

San Casciano in Val di Pesa Montespertoli

Incisa in Val d’Arno

Mercatale in Val di Pesa

Figline Valdarno Greve in Chianti

Certaldo

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Radda in Chianti

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Castellina in Chianti

Colle di Val d’Elsa RA

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Casole d’Elsa

Siena Sovicille Radicondoli

Rosia

Taverne d’Arbia

San Rocco a Pilli

Monteroni d’Arbia

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Vescovado

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Chianti The hills separating Siena and Florence offer the classic Tuscan panorama: a patchwork of woods, vineyards and olive groves, dotted with burgs, country churches and castles where time has all but stood still.

Historically, the Chianti district assembled the territories of Gaiole, Radda and Castellina which, from 1384 onwards, were gathered under the League of Chianti, a political and military alliance created by the Republic of Florence, in its fierce opposition to Siena.

Since 1932, the year when the wine-producing district was instituted by misterial decree, the area formally classed as Chianti has included – in addition to Gaiole, Radda and Castellina – some domains within the comunes of Barberino Val d’Elsa, Castelnuovo Berardenga and Poggibonsi; plus, within the Pesa Valley, San Casciano and Tavarnelle.

Today’s Chiantigiano, as the territory is known, straddles the provinces of Siena and Florence, and covers 70,000 hectares. A tenth of this land is cultivated with vineyards, and their red wine is designated as Chianti Classico to distinguish it from the standard red known simply as ‘Chianti’ that is produced in adjacent areas.

CHIANTI ON THE INTERNET

WWW.CHIANTICLASSICO.COM Official site of the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico, with information on its wine, territory, companies and the Consortium itself. Also in English.

WWW.VISITTUSCANY.COM Official site of the Tuscany Regional Tourist Board, including a wealth of information about the Chianti district. Also in English.

WWW.CHIANTI.COM Promotional site dedicated to the Chianti area between Florence and Siena. Also in English.

WWW.CHIANTI.IT Promotional site with information on Florence, Siena, the Chianti district, Tuscany and the wine. Also in English.

CHIANTI

Buon viaggio to all, through the lands of the Black Rooster!

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THE WINE AND THE BLACK ROOSTER The Gallo Nero, adopted as the trademark of the Consorzio del Vino Chianti Classico, was the historic symbol of the League of Chianti.

Its origin derives from an ancient legend rooted in these lands, which were forever contended between the Florentine and Sienese Republics.

The story goes that in order to finally bring hostilities to an end, a challenge

was agreed involving a knight from each side: at the first crowing of the rooster in their respective cities, the horsemen would ride out, and the point at which they met would mark the border.

The Sienese chose a white fowl, duly overfed to make it sing loud, proud and early. The Florentines opted for a black rooster, which was deliberately starved to make it crow at the slightest sign of daybreak.

The latter won the day, enabling the Florentine knight to cover far more ground than its rival. The rest is history (or, more likely, lore).

207

Siena is an exceptional example of a medieval city that has managed to preserve its urban and architectural features intact over the centuries: narrow and twisting streets, gothic edifices and churches built in brick and stone.

The historic centre, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995, is enclosed within medieval walls and built across three hills; these converge at Piazza del Campo below, theatre of the celebrated Palio that is held every year on 2 July and 16 August – one of the most fiery horse races anywhere.

Siena’s economy is centred around tourism, agriculture, crafts and restoration, as well the pharmaceutical and confectionery industries. The Università degli Studi di Siena, founded in 1240, is one of the oldest in Italy.

TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE OF SIENA Located at 1 Piazza Duomo. Tel. 0577 280551 www.terresiena.it (also in english) - Opening times: daily 9.00am-6.00pm

SIENA

Siena

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History of the city Although a number of archaeological finds point to Etruscan roots, historical sources on the city’s origins are quite thin on the ground, What is recorded with certainty is that in the I century BC Emperor Augustus established a military colony, Saena Julia, on this same land.

Under Longobard and Frankish rule, the Via Francigena – which linked Rome with northern Italy and France – became increasingly important: finding itself along the route, Siena too enjoyed substantial economic growth.

In the XII century the city became an independent Comune and, with the local economy flourishing through commercial and banking activity, it began expanding its dominion. Construction work on the Cathedral and the Palazzo Pubblico got under way and the University was founded in 1240.

At the same time, a political and economic rivalry with neighbouring Florence began to surface – a friction that would last into the XV century, with Ghibelline Siena never seeing eye-toeye with Florence, which was ruled by its Guelphs.

The most famous battle between the rival cities took place at Montaperti on 4 September 1260. The Sienese, who counted on military support from the King of Sicily, Manfred of Hohenstaufen (son of Frederick II), were joined by Florentine Ghibellines, and the Guelphs of Florence were driven from their city.

In spite of this victory, after the death of Manfred the Sienese Ghibellines were defeated in successive battles and forced to bow to Guelph rule and Florentine domination.

The plague of 1348 decimated the city’s population, prompting the start of a slow decline.

In 1555 Cosimo de’ Medici succeeded in taking control of Siena, and from that moment on its fate became intertwined with the history of the Grand Duchy of Tuscany.

THE PROVINCE OF SIENA IN FIGURES SURFACE AREA: 3,820 square kilometers POPULATION: 269,388 SIX LARGEST TOWNS BY POPULATION: Siena: 53,893; Poggibonsi: 29,634; Colle Val d’Elsa: 21,314; Montepulciano: 13,883; Sinalunga: 12,482; Chiusi: 8,826

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In 1859 Siena was the first Tuscan city to deliberate its annexation to the fledgling Kingdom of Italy.

The best in brief 1 PIAZZA DEL CAMPO

The very heart of Siena and the stage for Italy’s most famous historic event. For the Palio, the shell-shaped piazza gets carpeted in earth and becomes a race course, pulsating with local pride and passion. The jockeys, flying the colours of their contradas (quarters) ride bareback; the rules are as medieval as the pageantry.

IL CAMPO – ‘THE FIELD’

THE SIENESE SHE-WOLF

Exploring Siena you will no doubt come across many a she-wolf suckling her human twins. She stands atop a pillar in Piazza del Campo, for instance, or in Piazza Duomo. The image refers to the legend of Romulus and Remus, who – Roman mythology recounts – were found in their basket along the banks of the TIber by a she-wolf, suckled and adopted. But the presence of this Roman icon in

Siena is explained by a secondary legend: after Romulus had slain his brother Remus, the latter’s children (Senius and Ascanius) feared that their uncle may take their lives too and fled Rome; they reached Etruria and here they founded Siena and Asciano. The She-Wolf thus represents a traditional and legendary interweaving between Siena and Rome.

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Originally a swamp drained by the Romans, during the Middle Ages it became the main square for markets and public celebrations. In the XIV century it was taken over to make space for the Sienese Republic’s seat of government.

Three main streets converge on the Campo: Via Banchi di Sopra, Via Banchi di Sotto and Via di Città. It also marked the border between the Terzi (Terzo di Città, Terzo di Camollia, Terzo di San Martino): these ‘Thirds’ of the city were subdivided into its 17 historic contradas.

The Campo’s external circumference is 333 m long and the paved surface within is divided into nine slices – all sloping gently towards the centre of the shell and topped with distinct

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patterns of brickwork. Number Three was considered Perfect and Sacred by many (including Dante, in his Divine Comedy), and the sum of 333 m and the number of ‘slices’ in the piazza allude to the Government of the Nine – the Republic’s Judicial Council that administered the creation of the Campo.

PALAZZO PUBBLICO

This palazzo was built by the aforementioned Nine between 1298 and 1310 and is a fine example of Gothic architecture in a non-religious context.

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The central part of the façade stands out for its white marble disc painted with the ‘Christogram’ IHS – a combination of letters that represent the name of Jesus: Iesus Hominum Salvator (‘Jesus the Saviour of Mankind’). The top of the palazzo is crenellated with battlements in the classic Guelph design: square, thus expressing loyalty to the Papacy (rather than the Holy Roman Emperor).

The slight curvature in the façade and the twin colouring of stone and brick render a certain lightness to the building, softening its bulk.

The city’s Civic Museum is housed on the first floor. It displays several masterpieces of Sienese art, including the celebrated cycle of frescoes by Ambrogio Lorenzetti, Allegory of the Good and Bad Government.

Museo Civico www.comune.siena.it 1 Piazza del Campo. Tel. 0577 292615 Open daily 10am-7pm Admission Museo Civico € 9, combined ticket with Torre del Mangia and Santa Maria della Scala € 20

Next to the Palazzo Pubblico rises the civic tower, built between 1324 and 1348 and 88 m high. Though perched on a lower level than the Cathedral up the hill, it is equal in height to the latter’s belfry, as if to endorse – by medieval principles – the perfect equality between spiritual and secular power.

The tower is named ‘of the Mangia’ to remember a certain bellringer: Giovanni di Balduccio, infamous for his vices and squandering – mangiare in Italian means ‘to eat’, and here the name is probably short for Mangiaguadagni, or ‘Earnings-eater. The bell-ringers were replaced in due course by an automaton; what is left of it is displayed in the Courtyard of the Podestà (Chief Magistrate) in the Palazzo Pubblico.

Atop the tower swings the Campanone (‘Big Bell’), which has marked time for the Sienese since time immemorial, and to this day is rung by hand during the days of the Palio.

CAPPELLA DI PIAZZA – PIAZZA CHAPEL

The marble tabernacle at the foot of the Mangia Tower was built in 1352, in thanksgiving to the Virgin Mary at the end of the Black Death, which had decimated the population of Siena.

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THE PALIO AND THE CONTRADAS

The Palio equestrian challenge finds its roots deep in the Middle Ages and is held every summer in Piazza del Campo on 2 July and 16 August – the Feasts of the Visitation and of the Assumption of Mary, respectively; extraordinary Palios are sometimes held at other times.

The contest is governed by an ancient code of rules – bordering on the brutal, some would say – enforced by the Magistrate of the Contradas: jockeys may whip each other as well as their charger, for example; and each contrada blesses its horse and jockey (inside the church) ahead of the challenge. It is not unusual, sadly, for horses to trip during the race – nor, until recent years, for them to be fed with stimulants.

10 of the 17 contradas that historically form Siena take part.

Each is assigned a horse, picked by

ballot. It is ridden bareback and the race itself is over in a flash, after three dizzying laps of the piazza: the first horse in takes the spoils, with or without its jockey.

The Palio was first recorded in the XII century. Originally, members of the nobility would compete in a linear race, from outside the city walls into town. From the 1600s on it became a popular event, its venue Piazza del Campo and its rules more akin to what we witness today.

More than just a centuries-old tradition, the Palio reflects the very essence of Siena’s people.

Contradas are in effect independent communities, regulated by autonomous statutes. Each elects its representatives to organise the various aspects of the Palio. Rivalry – or ‘a lack of formal rapport’ – is the norm, although contradas many form alliances too.

Clanship is earned through kinship or residency, but especially by the location of one’s birth. To compensate for the fact that most births now take place in a hospital, a new custom has been adopted: the Contrada Baptism, a lay christening held on one’s turf.

THE GAME OF BARBERI

This is every Sienese child’s favourite game. The name Barbero refers to the breed of horse traditionally used for the Palio: the North African Barb (or Berber), renowned for its speed, hardiness and fiery temperament.

The ‘Barbs’ in the game are wooden

marbles painted in the colours of the 17 contradas. They are usually played on a circuit of sand or soil, recreating in miniature the Piazza del Campo and the hurdles faced by the horses.

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FONTE GAIA

Across the piazza from the Chapel we find the town’s main fountain, the monumental Fonte Gaia. Inaugurated in 1346, it was greeted with such spontaneous delight by the community, that it was christened the Joyful Fountain. To this day, it is fed through its original underground piping, constructed in the Middle Ages. The sculpted reliefs that decorate the fountain are XIXcentury copies of the original ones executed by Jacopo della Quercia, which are kept in the Santa Maria della Scala Museum.

Building work on a church dedicated to St Mary of the Assumption began in the XII century on the site of an older one, and continued well into the XIV when, in 1339, it was decided to extend the main body to emulate the Cathedral of St Mary of the Flower in Florence. The Black Death of 1348 prevented the realisation of this grandiose project, and the Cathedral was completed according to its original plan. The unfinished nave is in fact still visible: it now houses the Museum of the Opera del Duomo, the name of the organisation that oversaw the project.

The façade, created over the late XIII and early XIV centuries, is entirely surfaced in marble: the lower part, in RomanesqueGothic style, was designed by Giovanni Pisano; the upper, in the Late Gothic (also known as ‘International Gothic’), by Camaino di Crescentino.

The three apexes, in mosaic, were created at the end of the XIX century and depict, from left to right: the Presentation of Mary

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to the Temple; the Coronation of the Virgin; the Nativity of Jesus.

The Romanesque belfry is 77 m high and reflects the twin colouring of the sides.

Within, the black and white architectural features recall the colours of Siena’s coat of arms.

The floor consists of 56 panels inlaid with marble, a commission executed by 40 artists between the XIV and XIX centuries.

Among the many masterpieces, the following are particularly noteworthy: the Holy Water fonts by Antonio Federighi; the pulpit by Nicola Pisano; two early statues by Michelangelo (St Peter and St Pius at the Piccolomini Altar); the cycle of frescoes

by Pinturicchio in the Piccolomini Library; the bronze statue by Donatello in the Chapel of St John the Baptist.

The rear façade of the Cathedral leads into the Baptistery of St John, which has a baptismal font in marble, bronze and enamel, created by distinguished Renaissance sculptors – among them Jacopo della Quercia, Donatello and Lorenzo Ghiberti.

Museo dell’Opera del Duomo www.operaduomo.siena.it Piazza del Duomo. Tel. 0577 286300 Open daily from March to October 10.30am-7pm Cathedral hours on Sundays and other Holy Days: 1.30pm – 6.00pm All inclusive ticket €15.

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3 CATHERINIAN BASILICA OF SAINT DOMINIC

This convent church was built from the second half of the XIII century onwards and completed in 1465. It is constructed in brick and other commonplace materials, which is typical of the Mendicant Orders (or Beggars) and gives the building an austere and sturdy aspect.

Inside the Basilica, the head of St Catherine is preserved in the chapel dedicated to her; on her Saint’s Day (29 April), the relic is taken to Piazza del Campo and used to impart a blessing to the nation and to the whole of Europe in her honour (she is the Patron Saint of Italy and its continent). The chapel is decorated with a cycle of frescoes illustrating her life. www.basilicacateriniana.com 1 Piazza San Domenico. Tel. 0577 286848 Open daily March to October 7am-6.30pm Admission free

The patron saint of Italy and Europe was born in 1347 near Fontebranda, in the Contrada of the Goose.

The twenty-fourth child of a tanner, at the age of 16 she became a Dominican of the Third Order – a lay nun, that is, sworn to chastity, poverty and obedience. Catherine was a visionary, and at the age of ten she experienced an apparition of Christ dressed as a groom. For all her frequent episodes of religious ecstasy, her way of finding the Lord

was through assisting the sick and the poor. In her final years, Catherine corresponded tirelessly with the highest authorities of her time, challenging them on religious, social and political issues. She died in 1380 and was canonised in 1461.

Sanctuary and House of St Catherine of Siena www.caterinati.org 6 Via Costa di Sant’Antonio.

Tel. 0577 221562 Open daily 9.30am-7pm

4 FONTEBRANDA

Not far from the Basilica of St Dominic, we find the monumental fountain of Fontebranda: built in the 1200s, it served as the city’s principal source of water for centuries. It was divided into three pools: one for drinking water, a second used as an animal trough, and a third for laundering clothes.

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MUSEUMS 5 Santa Maria della Scala The Hospital of St Mary of the Ladder was founded over a millennium ago, its name alluding to a dream in which the Virgin Mary provided a Stairway to Heaven for the orphans, sick, poor and especially for the pilgrims taken into care here. It is now a complex of museums including the National Archaeological Museum of Siena; the Treasure of Santa Maria della Scala; and a number of exhibition trails. Among the noteworthy works of art on display in the hospital’s sizeable halls is the XV-century cycle of frescoes entitled Pellegrinaio (‘Pilgrimage’). www.santamariadellascala.com 1 Piazza Duomo.

Tel. 0577 534511 Open daily 10.30am-6.30pm Admission € 9, combined ticket including Civic Museum and Torre del Mangia € 20

6 Pinacoteca Nazionale – National Art Gallery The XV-century Palazzo Buonsignori showcases the evolution of Sienese art from the 1300s to the 1600s. Its most prized exhibits are the collection of Fondo oro paintings, with their gold-leafed background the hallmark of the Sienese School. www.pinacotecanazionale.siena.it 29 Via di San Pietro.

Tel. 0577 286143 Open daily: Mon and Sun 9am-1pm, Tue-Sat 8.15am-7.15pm Admission: € 4 6 Accademia dei Fisiocritici The Academy of Physiocritics was instituted to promote scientific discovery and experimentation.

Among its most illustrious academicians were Carl Linnaeus, Joseph-Louis Lagrange, Alessandro Volta, Cesare Beccaria and Robert Koch. It now houses Siena’s Museum of Natural History. www.fisiocritici.it 2 Piazzetta Silvio Gigli.

Tel. 0577 47002 Open Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm

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Eating and drinking In the kitchens of Siena, as elsewhere in Tuscany, quality and simplicity reign supreme. Olive oil is fundamental, and among the most popular produce we find porcini mushrooms, truffles, boar meat, salames and cheeses – notably pecorino (from ewe’s milk).

A classic Sienese dish is pici, a type of stringy pasta similar to spaghetti and commonly served with a tomato and garlic sauce, a meat ragù or with bread crumbs sautéd in olive oil.

Siena’s prime contribution to sweet tooth paradise dates from the Middle Ages: panforte (‘strong bread’, literally), a type of focaccia made with a dough of flour, honey, candied fruit (orange and melon) and spices (ginger, cinnamon and nutmeg). There are two types: panforte margherita (dusted with vanilla sugar) and panpepato (‘peppered bread’, which is spicier and coated with cocoa and pepper). In either case, a good set of teeth is de rigueur. The wines of Siena and its province are celebrated worldwide, with Chianti, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Brunello di Montalcino flying the flag.

8 ANTICA OSTERIA DA DIVO 25 Via Franciosa Tel. 0577286054 Open daily. Closed Tuesday www.osteriadadivo.it A distinctive hostelry housed in Etruscan-era tufa vaults. Refined Tuscan cuisine.

9 LA TAVERNA DI SAN GIUSEPPE 132 Via Duprè, Tel. 0577 42286.

Open daily. Closed Sunday www.tavernasangiuseppe.it While the edifice is a mere youngster (XII century), the cellar is rather more mature: an Etruscan dwelling carved out of the tufa.

Tradition, creativity, local produce and bags of atmosphere.

Price range: € 45-60

10 TRATTORIA FONTE GIUSTA 102 Via Camollia, Tel. 0577 40506 Open daily for dinner. Saturdays and Sundays also for lunch www.trattoriafontegiusta.com Classic Tuscan cuisine. Strictly selected meat and home-made pasta.

11 ANTICA TRATTORIA PAPEI 6 Piazza del Mercato Tel. 0577 280894, Open daily www.anticatrattoriapapei.com Family-run trattoria with a regional and local focus.

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ARTISANS AND TRADITION The lanes of Siena are abuzz with craft workshops and laboratories where potters, blacksmiths, weavers, jewellery makers, leather craftsmen, sculptors and painters practise trades handed down through countless generations.

The abundance of clay on Siena’s hills has kept alive a millennial tradition in terracotta and earthenware craftmanship, enhanced in recent times by the restoration of ancient kilns. A classic terracotta artefact is the Campana

di Santa Lucia, the Bell of St Lucy.

Created in various sizes and painted in the colours of the contradas, they are traditionally given to children as lucky charms at the Fair of St Lucy, held of 13 December.

A time-honoured tradition for Sienese women old and young is weaving and restoring their contradas’ flags: the word Palio means ‘banner’, the trophy given to the winning horse, so there is particular pride in this craft.

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EVENTS , 1 July: historic parade in which the Palio’s banner and trophy is transferred from the Town Hall to the Church of the Madonna of Provenzano. , 2 July: Palio in honour of the Madonna of Provenzano. , 14 August: Corteo dei Ceri e dei Censi (Procession of Candles and Incense). The Palio’s banner is paraded from the Town Hall to the Cathedral, to be blessed. , 16 August: Palio in honour of the Assumption of the Virgin. , July and August: Chigiana International Festival.

Classical musicfest organised by the Accademia Chigiana, Siena’s prestigious conservatoire.

Tel. 0577 22091, www.chigiana.it (also in English) , July and August: Siena Jazz. Summer workshops, jamming sessions and events for all. .Tel. 0577 271401 www.sienajazz.it (also in English)

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A STROLL THROUGH SIENA

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3.5 km / 2 h Our walking tour starts at Porta Camollia, the ancient gate that bears the inscription Cor magis tibi Sena pandit (‘Siena shows you a heart that is bigger than this gate’) – an invitation to a welcoming city. For a short stretch, along Via di Camollia, we walk along the Via Francigena route, then into Via Montanini and Via Banchi di Sopra. Having gone past the little Church of Santa Maria delle Nevi (‘of the Snows’), we arrive in Piazza Salimbeni at the palazzo of the same name: founded in 1472 and Sienese Gothic in design, this is the most ancient bank in the world, the Monte dei Paschi di Siena. We descend along Costa dell’Incrociata and walk up Via della Sapienza as far as the Basilica of St Dominic. As we head down Via Camporeggio, we stop and admire – rising on the opposite hill – the Cathedral and the Mangia Tower. From here, we can either reach the Sanctuary and House of St Catherine of Siena, or carry on down the steps as far as Fontebranda. Leaving the latter behind, the short and steep Via del Costone leads us to Piazzetta della Selva and, by taking the steps of Vicolo San Girolamo, directly into Piazza del Duomo. With the Santa Maria della Scala complex on our right, we proceed along Via del Capitano until we cross Via di Città, one of the busiest and most elegant streets in town, and follow this all the way down into the heart of Siena: Piazza del Campo.

At the Loggia della Mercanzia, Via di Città meets both Via Banchi di Sotto and Via Banchi di Sopra, which takes us back to Porta Camollia.

SIENA ON THE INTERNET WWW.ENJOYSIENA.IT Official homepage of the City Council: history, culture, museums and events.

(Also in English)

WWW.TERRESIENA.IT Province of Siena official tourism website, with information on where to go, events, leisure facilities, guided tours, markets and where to eat. (Also in English)

Volpaia

Grimoli

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Radda in Chianti

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Colle Petroso

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Galenda Poggio San Polo Ama

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Meleto Castagnoli Rietine San Martino al Vento

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San Felice

Pievasciata Lucignano

La Ripa

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Pontignano Pontignanello

Colombaio San Miniato Vico Alto

Le Tolfe Le Scotte

Ponte a Bozzone

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Leaving Siena through Porta Camollia gate, we catch the SP 408 – better known as the Strada dei Castelli del Chianti (Route of the Chianti Castles). After crossing the Arbia Torrent, near Pianella hamlet, we tackle our first climb – San Regolo – which takes us within reach of the famous Castello di Brolio: welcome to the lands of the Chianti Classico, with their hills, woods, rolling ups-and-downs and, of course, vineyards.

We may not be as heroic as the athletes of the Eroica challenge, but just being there is good enough – all the more so for having a panino in one hand filled with Sienese Cinta Salame, and a generous glass of Chianti in the other.

From Brolio we descend and once again cross the Route of the Castles. Near Castello di Meleto we have the option of either shortening our stage, or continuing to Gaiole to tackle the climb up to Badia a Coltibuono, the highest spot of the tour (700 m).

Finally, we reach Radda: the very heart of the Chianti district.

1 CASTELLO DI BROLIO

From San Regolo we soon make out the crenellated towers of Brolio, which have dominated the Chianti hills ever since the XI century.

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The castle has been in the Ricasoli family, who were Florentine, since 1141, and for centuries at the centre of the conflict between Florence and Siena. It has been stormed and damaged countless times – most recently in 1944, when it was occupied by the Germans and bombed for 12 days by the Allies.

The castle’s present design is the fruition of the Neo-Gothic alterations carried through by Bettino Ricasoli in the XIX century: within the original fortress, in pietra serena (the classic grey limestone used locally), rises an Early English-style manor house in red brick. This complements the Italian garden and the wilder, romantic park enclosed by the same fortress walls – which in contrast are Herculean in their stone body and pentagonal in plan.

The Ricasolis have practised viticulture as their main activity since 1141 – one of the oldest family businesses anywhere.

Covering 235 hectares of vineyards, their winery is also the largest within the Chianti Classico territory.

Baron Ricasoli’s gardens and cellars are open to visitors (by reservation) for guided tours and wine tasting.

Barone Ricasoli Spa Madonna a Brolio, Gaiole di Chianti Tel. 00577 730220, www.ricasoli.com Opening times Castle: April-October 10am-7pm

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THE IRON BARON AND CHIANTI WINE Bettino Ricasoli (1809-1880) was a foundational figure in the Unification of Italy in the mid-1800s, and one of the nascent Kingdom’s key politicians. He was also a member of the Accademia dei Georgofili, an institution established in Florence in 1753 to promote studies in agriculture, forestry and related sciences.

Ricasoli moved to Brolio in 1838 to manage the family estate, which was facing financial ruin. If his rigorous ways succeeded in improving the wine production – thereby rescuing both business and property – his authoritarian

governance also earned him the sobriquet ‘Iron Baron’.

The aristocrat’s objective was to create a wine that would compete with the French – which he achieved in 1867, when the wine produced at the Brolio estate picked up the Gold Medal at the International Exhibition in Paris.

Bettino Ricasoli is credited with the official composition of grape varieties used for Chianti wine as late as 1967: 70% Sangiovese, 15% Malvasia and 15% Canaiolo – the latter, Tuscan through and through.

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THE EROICA

This classic retro cycling event was launched in 1997 to ‘reconnect’ – in the words of its website – ‘with the heritage that has inspired so much Italian history, literature, culture and music, [and] rediscover the beauty of exertion and the thrill of conquest.’ The route often features in the Giro d’Italia.

Gaiole plays host to L’Eroica on the first Sunday of October every year, an event strictly for bikes built no later than 1987.

The circuit lengths are of 46 km, 75 km, 115 km, 135 km or 209 km, and take in Brolio, Siena, the Arbia Valley (Valdarbia), Montalcino, Orcia Valley and the ‘Clays of Siena’, before looping back to Gaiole in Chianti.

Another key objective is that L’Eroica should serve ‘as a

foundation for the protection and preservation of Tuscany’s Strade Bianche’ – the ‘White Roads’ of gravel that are so typical of the Tuscan countryside. www.eroicagaiole.it

Just short of Gaiole, we come to the junction that leads to Meleto Castle, another Florentine stronghold in the Chianti district, once a Ricasoli possession.

The castle is now an agricultural and leisure concern, which includes a wine shop and agriturismo hospitality. Visits to the estate, by reservation, are welcome: they include the main Piano Nobile (‘Noble Floor’), the Little Theatre with its XVIII-century furnishings and frescoes, and the old underground cellar.

Castello di Meleto, Gaiole di Chianti Tel. 0577 749129 www.castellomeleto.it Opening times: daily 11am-3pm

3 GAIOLE IN CHIANTI

The land where Gaiolie now stands – effectively the dell of the Massellone Torrent – had been a marketplace from the X century onwards, serving the communities of neighbouring hills,

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castles and country churches. On the back of the commercial growth it enjoyed between 1384 and 1774, Gaiole became a cornerstone of the League of Chianti – which included Radda and Castellina.

Bettino Ricasoli was mayor of Gaiole for many years in the course of the XIX century, and the central piazza is dedicated to him. At its centre crows the Gallo Nero – the Black Rooster, all three metres of him clad in iron – symbol of the Chianti district and its wine.

Not far from the centre, on the Spatenna hill, we find a fortified complex guarding a country church dedicated to the Virgin; the XII-century edifice now houses a luxury resort and restaurant.

4 BADIA A COLTIBUONO

This former monastic complex dates back to the XI century and was founded, according to an ancient legend, by a certain Geremia Firidolfi – whose family later changed their name to Ricasoli. In the XIX century the abbey was converted into a country house, now the premises of a farming business that includes wine and oil production, and an agriturismo. Visits include wine tasting.

Badia a Coltibuono, Gaiole In Chianti Tel. 0577 74481 www.coltibuono.com Visits and tasting: from April to October 2.30-5.30pm (reservation not required)

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5 CETAMURA DEL CHIANTI

Within the estate of Badia a Cotibuono, on the road to Radda, is the Cetamura archaeological site. Originally an Etruscan settlement from the VI century BC, it has been inhabited until at least the XII century; documents archived at the nearby abbey refer to it as Civitamura.

Since the site’s discovery in 1964, an abundance of uncommon artifacts has come to light, from animal bones to vegetable seeds. In 2012, at a depth of 30 m down a well, a batch of 150 grape seeds was also recovered: they belong to Roman times and are still organically alive. Their DNA mapping has yielded vital information on the history of Chianti’s native vines. Many of Cetamura’s finds are now preserved at the National Archaeological Museum in Florence.

Located at Strada di S. Donato in Perano, Gaiole in Chianti

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EATING AND DRINKING

IL CARLINO D’ORO San Regolo, Gaiole in Chianti Tel. 0577 747136 www.carlinovacanze.com Located a short distance before Brolio: traditional Tuscan cuisine in a homely ambience, and a panoramic terrace.

AGRIBAR EROICA CAFFÈ Madonna a Brolio, Gaiole in Chianti Tel. 0577 730272 Open daily: Mon-Fri 7am-3.30pm, Sat-Sun 7am-5pm L’Eroica-themed café: retro furniture, no-frills fare and an honest menu.

ENOTECA E OSTERIA DEL CASTELLO DI BROLIO Madonna a Brolio, Gaiole in Chianti Tel. 00577 730220 / 0577 730290 www.ricasoli.com Opening times Enoteca (Wine shop): April-October 10am-7pm Opening times Osteria (Inn): daily for lunch and dinner Visitors can book individual tastings of Ricasoli wines at the Enoteca.

The Osteria is along the road to the castle: Tuscan specialities reinterpreted and superb wine.

ENOTECA DEL CASTELLO DI MELETO Castello di Meleto, Gaiole in Chianti Tel. 0577 749129 www.castellomeleto.it Opening times: daily 11am-3pm A platter of Cinta Senese cured meats – from the local DOP-Appellated breed of pig – washed down by (what else?) the wines of Meleto.

Plus organic oil, honey and other Tuscan specialities.

LO SFIZIO DI BIANCHI 44 Via Bettino Ricasoli, Gaiole in Chianti Tel. 0577 749501 www.losfiziodibianchi.it Open daily: Sun-Thu 7.30am-3pm, Fri-Sat 7.30am-9pm In the Gaiole piazza: home-cooked Chianti recipes, pizza, gelato artigianale and pastries.

GASTRONOMIA LE COSE BUONE 71 Via Bettino Ricasoli, Gaiole in Chianti Tel. 0577 749085 Opening times: Tue-Sun 11am9.30pm. Closed Monday Distinctive deli selling and dishing up Tuscan fare.

CHIANTI BREW FIGHTERS 10/C Via Guido Rosa, Radda in Chianti Tel. 366 8370024 www.chiantibrewfighters.com Popular craft birrificio, just before Radda, with excellent beers to be tasted, enjoyed or bought.

CHIANTI

FATTORIA SAN GIUSTO A RENTENNANO San Giusto a Rentennano, Gaiole in Chianti Tel. 577 747121 www.fattoriasangiusto.it Opening times: Mon-Fri 9am-1pm and 2pm-6pm. Sat by request.

Closed Sunday Centuries-old Cistercian monastery, now home to an organic farm producing quality wines and oil.

10 Hotel Palazzo San Niccolò

9 Hotel Le Vigne

Hotels

8 La Loggia Del Chianti

7 Casa Porciatti

6 La Botte di Bacco

Restaurants and pubs

5 Santa Maria a Prato

4 Ghiacciaia Granducale

3 Propositura di San Niccolò

2 Palazzo del Podestà

1 Porta Valdarnese

historical sites

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7

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Radda in Chianti It comes as no surprise to the visitor that Radda is known as the ‘Village of Vines’. This tiny burg shielded by medieval walls was once the heart of the League of Chianti. It is now a major hub of wine production and home to Casa Chianti Classico, a centre devoted to the district’s wine and culture.

The burg rises on the ridge of a watershed between the Pesa River (to the north) and the Arbia Torrent (south), a landscape of grazing lands since time immemorial.

Recent finds date the earliest rural settlements around the V century AD, while the first document specifically mentioning the burg of ‘Ratta’ was written in 1003.

By the XII century Radda was already the most populous village in the area, and in 1384 it became the focus of the League of Chianti and the seat of its Podestà – or Chief Administrator – nominated by the Florentines.

When the Florence-Siena conflict finally came to an end, the local castles were converted into residences and the lands began to be cultivated with vines.

TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE OF RADDA IN CHIANTI Located at 2 Piazza del Castello. Tel. 0577 738494 www.chiantiradda.it Opening times: April to October daily 10am-12.30pm and 3-6.30pm

R A D DA I N C H I A N T I

History of Radda in Chianti

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When the Grand Duke Peter Leopold visited Radda in 1773, he was struck by this community’s poverty and isolation, and had the roads improved. The amelioration had little effect on this remote hamlet’s existence, however, and the population moved away in large numbers after the Second World War. From the 1970s onwards, the general exodus from city to countryside has favoured the development of many activities centred on agriculture and tourism.

A stroll through Radda A good starting point for our trail is the access gate opposite the public gardens, PORTA VALDARNESE 1 , in Piazza IV Novembre.

Once in, we simply follow Via Roma, which crosses the entire burg from east to west. On our right, we soon encounter Via Dietro le Mura, which runs up towards Piazza del Castello, where the tourist information office is located. In Piazza Francesco Ferrucci, on our left, we find the PALACE OF THE PODESTÀ 2 : it was built in the XV century and now houses the council offices.

On the opposite side of the piazza, at the top of the stairway, is Radda’s main church: the PROPOSITURA DI SAN NICCOLÒ 3 . The XIII-century edifice, once the Provost’s Seat (hence its unusual name) was severely damaged during the Second World War and

R A D DA I N C H I A N T I

CHIANTI CLASSICO: CONSORTIUM, FOUNDATION AND HOUSE OF CHIANTI Since 1924, the year of its foundation, Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico’s mission has been to safeguard, invigilate and enhance the Chianti Classico appellation, representing approximately 96% of its DOCG-certified producers. The consortium controls the entire supply chain – from grape to bottle – through a system of traceability that enables the consumer to identify the source of any single bottle.

The Foundation for the Safeguarding of the Chianti Classico Territory was established in 1991, at the behest of the Consorzio. The

objective of this non-profit-making organisation is to protect the land’s environmental heritage and reinforce its artistic and cultural patrimony.

The House, Casa Chianti Classico, offers a hands-on experience to anyone wishing to learn more about the wine and culture of the Chianti district. Its programme includes an interactive educational trail, temporary exhibitions, wine courses for the more committed and cookery classes. www.chianticlassico.com

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subsequently reconstructed – including the belfry, in the 1950s, which is supported by one of the castle towers. Proceeding along Via Roma we come upon PORTA FIORENTINA, another gate; turn left into Viale Giacomo Matteotti for a wonderful view across the countryside of Radda. Just before returning to Piazza IV Novermbre, on our left we see a small steel pyramid: it marks the site of the GHIACCIAIA GRANDUCALE 4 – the Ice House built in 1897, where ice was manufactured from compacted snow and used for preserving food. From Piazza IV Novembre we continue to the former CONVENT OF SANTA MARIA A PRATO 5 : left along Viale XI Febbraio, first right (Via del Convento) and downhill for 300 metres. Created around the X century, the convent was once a place of pilgrimage dedicated to the Virgin Mary.

Inside, upon the main altar, we can see a 1474 polyptych by the Florentine Neri di Bicci: Madonna and Child amid the Saints.

The monastic complex is now the home of CASA CHIANTI CLASSICO. We return uphill to the burg along the Circonvallazione Santa Maria, enjoying the olive groves and panoramic vistas all around us.

Casa Chianti Classico, Located at 18 Circonvallazione Santa Maria, Tel. +39 0577 738187, www.casachianticlassico.it

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EATING AND DRINKING 6 LA BOTTE DI BACCO 23 Viale XX Settembre Tel. 0577 739008 Open for dinner www.ristorantelabottedibacco.it Here at Bacchus’s Barrel, chef Flavio D’Auria creates traditional dishes from Tuscany and Campania with top quality produce.

7 CASA PORCIATTI 1 Piazza Quattro Novembre Tel. 0577 738055 Opening times: daily 8am-1pm and 4-8pm. Closed Sunday afternoon www.casaporciatti.it Probably Radda in Chianti’s top gastro-cellar since 1965: local delicacies, meats, wines and... wines.

R A D DA I N C H I A N T I

8 LA LOGGIA DEL CHIANTI 1 Via degli Ulivi Tel. 0577 738491 Opening times: Tue-Sun for lunch and dinner. Closed Monday laloggiadelchianti.it

All of Chianti’s flavours and aromas, savoured al fresco in the peaceful and spacious loggia.

5 RISTORANTE AL CONVENTO 18 Circonvallazione Santa Maria near Casa Chianti Classico Tel. +39 0577 738187 Opening times: variable www.casachianticlassico.it Traditional dishes with a contemporary accent: fresh, honest and with particular attention to seasonal produce.

9 RISTORANTE PODERE LE VIGNE Podere Le Vigne Tel. 0577 738301 Opening times: variable www.lodgingchianti.it Deep in the countryside, yet a stone’s throw from Radda: a Tuscan kitchen with all ingredients cultivated at its doorstep (‘chilometro zero’).

EVENTS , End of May/early June: Radda nel Bicchiere (‘Radda in the Glass’). A wine-crawl through the village streets, with your own engraved glass to show you the way. (But dare you turn down the twentieth wine producer when you reach it?)

RADDA IN CHIANTI ON THE INTERNET COMUNE.RADDA-IN-CHIANTI.SI.IT Official site of the town council with information about Radda’s history, culture and events. (Italian)

WWW.CHIANTIRADDA.IT Official site of the Radda in Chianti Tourist Board, with information on what to visit, excursions, events, leisure facilities, shopping and where to eat. (Also in English)

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From Radda to Greve Today we leave the Sienese Chianti district and freewheel down and onwards into the gently undulating lands of the Florentine Chianti, another landscape of pastoral beauty.

The occasional diversion from the main itinerary can take us to some backwaters which, though crucial in shaping the area’s history over the centuries, remain barely known – such as the Oratory of St Euphrosynos or the country church of St Leolinus.

Once we reach Panzano we continue along the panoramic Strada dei Poggi (‘Road of the Hills’), which offers our first optional exploration: the Abbey of Passignano (an extra 6 km in total).

Alternatively, if we wish to press on after the early exertions of the day, from Panzano we can simply enjoy the effortless descent to Greve.

By following the ridge, we arrive at Mercatale and then drop into the valley of the Greve River, and onwards to the town of the same name.

Tourist information office of Castellina in Chianti Via Ferruccio 40. Tel. 0577 741392 - 0577 740222 amocastellinainchianti.it (Also in English) Opening times: variable

CHIANTI

1 CASTELLINA IN CHIANTI

Castellina is approximately 10 km from Radda in Chianti along the SR 249 road. From its ridge it dominates the Elsa Valley right on the border between the Sienese and the Florentine Chianti districts.

The tumulus of Montecalvario was discovered just a short distance away, a vestige of Etruscan presence here from the VII-VI centuries BC onwards. During the Middle Ages the burg formed part of the League of Chianti, and was destroyed and rebuilt a number of times.

In the central piazza we find the XIV-century Rock, which houses the Archaeological Museum of the Sienese Chianti. Castellina’s highlights include the panoramic view from the tower, and Via delle Volte, at the foot of the walls: a vaulted causeway, it is now lined with shops, craft bottegas and restaurants.

Santa Cristina

Chiocchio

Mercatale in Val di Pesa

Le Quattro Strade

San Fabiano

Meleto

Strada in Chianti

Ferrone

San Polo in Chianti

Cintoia Castello di Cintoia

Passo dei Pecorai Giobbole

La Panca

e

Greti m u i e F Gre 5 v Valigondoli Montefioralle

Greve in Chianti

3

Badia a 4 Passignano

Ruffoli

Casole Lamole 2

San Donato Madonna di Pietracupa

Case Poggio

Panzano in Chianti

Pieve di Panzano

La Piazza

Cortine

Volpaia Castelvecchi

Santa Maria a Grignano

Fioraie Casanuova di Pietrafitta 1

Cavallari

Castellina in Chianti

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www.panzanochianti.com 3 MONTEFIORALLE

Along the Strada dei Poggi, between Panzano and Mercatale, comes the fork to Montefioralle, considered one of the most beautiful ancient burgs in Italy.

CHIANTI

2 PANZANO IN CHIANTI

Halfway between Radda and Greve, Panzano marks the crossroads between the SR 222 Via Chiantigiana – which connects Florence and Siena – and the SP 118 Strada dei Poggi – which follows the hills on the right bank of the Pesa River, towards Marcatale.

As we ride along the Via Chiantigiana, a kilometre or so before Panzano we come to the turning for the Oratory of St Euphrosynos – considered the evangeliser of the Chianti district – and, shortly beyond on the Via Chiantigiana, the ancient country church of St Leolinus. Although the latter, as seen today, was built in XII century, it is mentioned in a document dated 982; several works of art are conserved here.

Panzano’s historic centre rises on a hill enclosed within a medieval fort, which is still intact. At the top, where the castle once stood, we find the Church of St Mary of the Assumption, built in the XIV century.

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The roots of Montefioralle’s name, loosely translated as ‘Floral Mount’, appear to allude to the fig trees that once blossomed in abundance near the castle – around which the picturesque borgo then grew, with its web of cobbled alleyways.

From Montefioralle we can reach Greve directly by a steep, panoramic descent, a stretch of a couple of kilometres.

Near this borgo is the country church of San Cresci, believed to be the oldest pieve in the Chianti district. It is dedicated to one of the leading evangelisers of the Florentine lands, the martyr Acrisius. The complex has been thoroughly restored and now houses an international residential centre for artists. www.montefioralle.it

CHIANTI

4 ABBEY OF SAINT MICHAEL THE ARCHANGEL AT PASSIGNANO

Shortly after the fork for Montefioralle comes the one for the majestic Badia di Passignano, a major monastic centre probably founded in Longobard times. Ever since the XI century, the Abbey has been in the hands of monks from the Vallombrosan Order – a branch of the Benedictines – who specialise in classical texts, viticulture and forestry. They also look after the countless works of art kept here.

The estate includes a fort with two XV-century towers, the church, monastery and other edifices which have been altered and restored through the centuries. Outside the walls is the tiny Borgo di Passignano.

Passignano, Tavarnelle Val di Pesa Tel. 055 8071171 - www.badia-a-passignano.com 5 VERRAZZANO CASTELLO

The castle where the XVI-century explorer, Giovanni da Verrazzano, was born is perched on a hill near the locality of Greti. It was built over the XV and XVI centuries, while the villa came a century later.

The guard tower rises above the vines and gardens of the manor, which now houses a winery, an agriturismo and a hostelry.

Located at 32A Via Citille, Località Greti Tel. 055 854243 www.verrazzano.com Opening times: Mon-Sat 10am-5pm and Sun 11am-3pm

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EATING AND DRINKING

BAR PASTICCERIA SIENI 18 Piazza Bucciarelli, Panzano in Chianti Tel. 055 852061 www.barpasticceriasieni.it Open daily. Closed Tuesday Traditional Tuscan pastries and home-turned gelato artigianale.

ANTICA MACELLERIA CECCHINI 11 Via XX Luglio, Panzano in Chianti Tel. 055 852020 www.dariocecchini.com Open daily 9am-4pm Dario Cecchini’s butcher shop and restaurant has been a family business for eight generations.

Though strong on meat – including grilled cuts – the menu offers plenty of veggie options. Free to bring your own bottle. Reservation recommended.

AZIENDA AGRICOLA MONTEFIORALLE Montefioralle, Tel. 392 842 5595 www.montefioralle.wine Open daily: 10am-5pm Small family-run winery, just before you arrive at the village. Private tasting by reservation only.

CAFFÉ MONTEFIORALLE 57 Via Montefioralle centro, Montefioralle, Tel. 348 035 1214 Open daily OSTERIA DI PASSIGNANO 33 Via Passignano 33, Badia a Passignano Tel. 055 8071278 www.osteriadipassignano.com Restaurant: open daily for lunch and dinner. Closed Sunday Wine bar (Enoteca): open daily 10am-7pm. Closed Sunday Traditional Tuscan recipes revisited with the best prime ingredients and imagination. Visits to the cellar with wine tasting by arrangement.

LA VOLPENERA 82 SP 92 Grevigiana Road towards Mercatale, Mercatale In Val di Pesa Tel. 055 8218039 www.salvadonica.com Open daily At the hamlet of Salvadonica, 1 km out of Mercatale (towards San Casciano). Panoramic location, local dishes, the freshest ingredients.

EVENTS , Mid-September: Vino al Vino – need we say more? Panzano in Chianti flings its gates open to the local wineries.

CHIANTI

MONTE BERNARDI Via Chiantigiana, Panzano In Chianti Located 500 m from the SP2bis and SR222 crossroads, towards Siena.

Tel. 055 852400 www.montebernardi.com Open daily for tastings. Private tours by arrangement.

Bio-dynamic farm, producing wines exclusively from home-grown grapes.

UZZ

Greve in Chianti

LITÀ

VI A M A R I O RO

VIA GIOVANNI DA VERR

ANO

A ZZ A

NO (

SR2

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LOCALITÀ UZZANO

LOC A

Tourist Office

SSI

Monuments and

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historical sites 1 Piazza Giacomo Mateotti

VADOR ALLENDE SAL

2 Basilica di Santa Croce Museums

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Restaurants and pubs

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PIAZZA XXV LUGLIO

VIA GIACOMO BRODOL

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PIAZZA DON G. MINZONI

239

Greve sits in the valley of the river with which it shares the name, along the Via Chiantigiana. Its territory is entirely contained within the Chianti Classico district, while technically still part of the Province of Florence.

As with other early medieval settlements on the valley floor, Greve grew around a marketplace (mercatale) – in this instance within the fiefdom of the nearby Castle of Montefioralle.

Over time, by virtue of its position midway between Florence and Siena, Greve developed into a key commercial centre.

A market has been held in the main piazza on Saturdays since time immemorial, while every year in September the space becomes the stage for the largest of all wine fairs held in the Chianti area.

TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE OF GREVE IN CHIANTI Located at 10 Piazza Giacomo Matteotti. Tel. 055 8546299 www.comune.greve-in-chianti.fi.it Opening times: April to October daily 10am-7pm

GREVE IN CHIANTI

Greve in Chianti

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GREVE IN CHIANTI

A stroll through Greve 1 PIAZZA GIACOMO MATTEOTTI is the heart of Greve, at its centre a bronze statue of its most illustrious son: maritime explorer, Giovanni da Verrazzano. Before the town hall stands another statue, Winged Torso, by the celebrated sculptor, Igor Mitoraj.

The piazza is triangular – unusually, perhaps, but typical of a mercatale – and bordered on all sides by classic arched porticoes that give shelter to shops, artisan workshops and restaurants.

The southern length stands out for the neoclassical façade of the 2 SANTA CROCE BASILICA (XIX century); inside this we find a triptych (Madonna and Child with Saints) and a small Annunciation

by Bicci di Lorenzo.

Leaving the piazza from the northern side along Via Roma, and then turning left into Via San Francesco, we come across the 3 MUSEUM OF SACRED ART: a collection of paintings, sculptures, tapestries and furniture. This former friary also offers an archaeological section.

The narrow Via delle Capanne, at the corner of the town hall (Palazzo Comunale) and the tourist information office, leads to Piazza Tirinnanzi and the 4 MUSEUM OF WINE, housed in the ancient cellars of Greve.

Saint Francis Museum of Sacred Art 2 Via S. Francesco Tel. 055 8544685 Opening times: April to October on Tue, Thu, Fri 4-7pm; Sat and Sun 10am-1pm and 4-7pm. Closed Mon and Wed

Museum of Wine 10 Piazza Nino Tirinnanzi Tel. 055 8546275 www.museovino.it

EATING AND DRINKING

6 ANTICA MACELLERIA FALORNI 71 Piazza Giacomo Matteotti Tel. 055 853029 Open daily 10am-7pm www.falorni.it Bistro-butcher, with a chance to sample local recipes and wines (served by the glass).

7 ENOTECA RISTORANTE IL GALLO NERO 9 Via Cesare Battisti Tel. 055 853734 Open daily for lunch and dinner.

Closed Thursday enoristorantegallonero.it Wine bar-restaurant named after the district’s iconic Black Rooster:

Tuscan fare including grilled meats and a wide selection of local wines.

8 RISTORANTE BOTTEGA DEL MORO 14 Piazza Trieste Tel. 055 853753 Open daily for lunch and dinner.

Closed Tuesday ristorantebottegadelmoro.it The Landini family’s passion for fine Tuscan food and antiques comes together at this establishment.

9 ENOTECA DI GREVE 112/a Viale Vittorio Veneto Tel. 055 8546209 Open daily from 2pm. Closed Tuesday www.enotecadigreve.it Tasting of Chianti Classico varieties as well as craft beers, accompanied by platters of fine local nibbles.

GREVE IN CHIANTI

5 OSTERIA LA TERRAZZA 22 Piazza Giacomo Matteotti Tel. 055 853008 Open daily for lunch and dinner.

Closed Tuesday www.osterialaterrazza.com Traditional Tuscan and broader Italian cuisine – strong on meat and produce from the forest and field.

Terrace with view across the main piazza.

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GREVE AND THE NEW WORLD Born in Greve in 1485, Giovanni da Verrazzano was one of the most famous Italian navigators of his time.

He is most notably associated with his exploration of the North American Atlantic coast, sailing into New York Bay on 17 April 1524.

The Big Apple has dedicated the Verrazano-Narrows Bridge, which links Staten Island and Brooklyn, to the Tuscan explorer, and celebrates Verrazzano Day every year on 17

April – as does his hometown at Verrazzano Castle.

The nearby Castle of Montefioralle was home to the family of another famous voyager and cartographer, Amerigo Vespucci (1454-1512): he explored the Atlantic coast of South America and was among the first to uphold the idea that Christopher Columbus had discovered a new continent – which was later named after him.

EVENTS , Every Saturday: Greve market in Piazza Matteotti. , September: Expo Chianti Classico – the principal wine fair, promoted

by Greve in Chianti Town Council, in collaboration with the Vino Chianti Classico Consortium, Tuscany Regional Council and the other Comunes of the Chianti district. www.expochianticlassico.com

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Today’s ride starts with a climb – and a landscape that deserves every minute of a nice and easy pace.

Once we reach the Sugame Pass (530 m), we continue along lofty roads, past country churches and castles, and through the ancient hamlets of La Panca and Cintoia. We then follow the course of the River Ema as far as Grassina in Chianti.

Our last challenge is the hill of Vacciano, and then, finally: Florence!

1 QUERCETO CASTLE

Shortly before the turning for La Panca comes the village of Querceto, where a brief detour leads to the castle of the same name.

During the Middle Ages the castle was ransacked several times, and eventually destroyed at the end of the XV century. The current edifice dates to the XVI century and has belonged to the François family since 1897. They have transformed it into an agricultural concern, and the castle is now listed as one of the historic Chianti Classico estates.

CHIANTI

From Greve to Florence

Compiobbi

Settignano

Firenze

Vallina Le Case San Romolo

San Jacopo al Girone Fium e

Ar no

Rimaggio

Arcetri

Bagno a Ripoli

Piazza Calda

Villamagna Vicchio di Rimaggio

Ponte a Ema Osteria Quattro Vie Nuova

A1

Pozzolatico

San Gersolè

5

Antella

Grassina 4

Borgaccio

A1

Balatro Picille

Capannuccia L’ugolino San Bartolomeo a Quarate

Impruneta 3

Santa Cristina

San Polo in Chianti

Meleto

Ferrone Strada in Chianti 2

Mercatale in Val di Pesa

San Fabiano

Chiocchio

Cintoia Castello di Cintoia

Passo dei Pecorai Giobbole

La Panca Greti

Fiume Gr ev

e

1

Valigondoli

Badia a Passignano

Greve in Chianti

N 0

2,5 km

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The gardens may be visited free of charge, while a tour of the castle and wine tasting can be enjoyed by prior arrangement.

2 Via A. François, Località Dudda, Greve in Chianti Tel. 055 85921 www.castellodiquerceto.it Opening times: summertime Mon-Fri 10am-5.30pm and Sat 2-6pm

2 MUGNANA

Coming down the SP 66 road, we encounter the hamlet of Mugnana and its own castle. Its medieval aspect virtually intact, the latter has been renowned for centuries for its wine and oil production. A little further on, at the brow of a hill, we find the country church of San Donato a Mugnana, which was built around the year 1000.

Mugnana Castle 106 Via di Mugnana, Greve in Chianti Tel. 055 294151 www.castellodimugnana.it

Shortly after leaving the SP 119 road as we head for Grassina, on our right we can find a small artificial lake – a popular spot with Florentines on a Sunday. A dirt track leads to the lake, which is surrounded by woodland and not obviously visible from the road.

4 MEDICI VILLAS OF LILLIANO AND LAPPEGGI

These two Medicean villas, not far from Florence but surrounded by countryside, are adjacent to one another and at one time constituted a single estate.

While Lappeggi is not open to the public, Lilliano – home to the Malenchini winery and oil farm – is open for guided tours, wine tasting and cookery courses.

Villa Medicea di Lilliano Wine Estate 82 Via Lilliano e Meoli, Grassina Tel. 055 642602 www.medicivilla.com

CHIANTI

3 CASTELRUGGERO LAKE

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5 GRASSINA AND THE FOUNTAIN OF THE ENCHANTRESS

At the gates of Florence, right at the start of the Via Chiantigiana, is Grassina – for centuries also known as The Washerwomen’s Village. The River Ema flows through it and along these banks is where the Florentine aristocracy would have its laundry washed.

A monument in Grassina’s piazza remembers the gruelling work of the laundresses, who practised their trade here until as late as the 1960s, when washing machines became common.

The laundry would be transported along Via delle Fonti from and into town, on carts pulled by mules or donkeys; these would be gathered at the fountain of the Fata Morgana – the Italian name for Morgan the Fay, the enchantress of Arthurian legend.

The place was also known as The Fairies’ Dwelling.

This nymphaeum (monument dedicated to the nymphs) was erected in 1573/4 at the behest of Bernardo Vecchietti, owner of the Villa il Riposo; inside it was a marble statue by Giambologna, dedicated to King Arthur’s sorceress.

During the summer, goes the legend, young maidens will appear at the fountain at the dead of night, and its waters have the power to restore youth.

CHIANTI

EATING AND DRINKING AZIENDA AGRICOLA BAJ-MACARIO 5 Località Mugnana, Chiocchio, Greve in Chianti Tel. 335 391869 www.bajmacario.it This farm has been renting out 50 rows of vines since 2012, enabling the production of tailored and exclusive wines. The company’s own wine is also created by the principle of a particular grape (or combination of grapes) along a single row.

LA DISPENSA DI ANDREA E GREGORIO Piazza Emilio Landi, Strada In Chianti Tel. 055 8588957 Open daily. Closed Sunday Platters of meats, pizza, gelato and a warm welcome in the main piazza of Strada in Chianti.

OSTERIA DEL ROSSO 20 Via Costa al Rosso, Grassina, Bagno A Ripoli Tel. 055 640240 Open daily. Closed Sunday. www.osteriadelrosso.com Trattoria offering classic Tuscan fare – with different dishes every day.

247

Florence–Tavarnelle Having crossed Ponte Vecchio, we zig-zag up to Piazzale Michelangelo to enjoy one of the most magnificent views to be found anywhere: the majestic Arno below and the historic centre of Florence beyond. Then, off to Tavarnelle.

A little patience may be called for as we negotiate the suburban traffic, but once we are in sight of Galluzzo, with its famous charterhouse, the worst of the rumble is behind.

The road up the hill takes us to Romola, then down to Cerbaia where, once we have crossed the Pesa River, it rises again as far as the San Pancrazio crossroads.

Although Tavarnelle is now within a whisker, for the fitter explorer wanting more of the ups and downs (and those breathtaking panoramas) there is an alternative route through Polvereto.

Fium eA

Badia a Settimo

rno

Firenze

Bellosguardo

Lastra a Signa A1

Rinaldi

Scandicci

Arcetri

San Martino alla Palma

Piazza Calda

Ponte all’Asse Galluzzo Certosa

1

Mosciano

Pozzolatico

Casignano

Santa Maria a Marciola

A1

San Gersolè

Tavarnuzze

San Michele a Torri

Monte Oriolo

Baruffi

Chiesanuova Romola

Impruneta

RA 3

Cerbaia Spedaletto La Bruscola

San Casciano in Val di Pesa

Lucignano

Calcinaia Ponte Rotto

re v

Il Poggio

eG

San Quirico in Collina

Ferrone Fiu m

2

e

Mercatale in Val di Pesa

Calzaiolo 3

San Pancrazio Santa Cristina in Salivolpe

Fornacette Quercione

Le Quattro Strade

Bargino 4

Montefiridolfi

Polvereto RA 3

Il Pino II

Fabbrica

Bonazza

Fiano

Romita

Badia a Passignano

Noce Marcialla Vigliano

Palazzuolo

Sambuca

Tavarnelle Val di Pesa

N 0

2,5 km

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1 CERTOSA DEL GALLUZZO

South of Florence, on the crest of a hill, rises solitary and silent the charterhouse of Galluzzo. It was founded in 1341 by Niccolò Acciaioli, member of a powerful family of bankers and a notable personality in XIV-century Florence.

Acciaioli’s mission was to create a monastic centre that would also provide a school and a library for young students of sciences. Hence the adjacent Palazzo Acciaioli, which is also known as Palazzo degli Studi; it currently houses an art collection.

1 Via del Ponte di Certosa, Località Galluzzo, Firenze Tel. 055 2049226 www.certosadifirenze.it Opening times: Tue-Sat 10–11am and 3-4pm. Sun 3-4pm Admission: by donation

Museo Giuliano Ghelli at San Casciano Val di Pesa 6 Via Lucardesi, San Casciano Val di Pesa Tel. 055 8256385 www.chiantivaldarno.it Opening times: variable

CHIANTI

2 SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA

The village rests on the northern boundary of the Chianti Classico district, between the Pesa and Greve Rivers. Like Mercatale, San Casciano was once a small market town.

In the XV century the Florentines resolved to turn San Casciano into a stronghold against Siena, fortifying it with a formidable belt of wall, seven metres high, which still guards the burg.

Numerous works of sacred art from the local churches are collected at the Museum, along with its prized piece: an Etruscan stela (3.70 m tall and some 20 hundredweight heavy). The upright stone was unearthed in 1978 near the Archer’s Tomb, a short distance from San Casciano.

In town we soon spot the modern Chianti Tower (33 m high), atop which we can enjoy breathtaking views of the area held within the Pistoia Apennines and the Chianti hills.

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3 SAN PANCRAZIO COUNTRY CHURCH

Near the San Pancrazio crossroads is the X-century church dedicated to St Pancras; it holds a number of religious frescoes spanning the XV-XVII centuries. Particularly striking is the cycle in the Priest’s Study, illustrating the Liberal Arts, poets and several scientists from antiquity and the Renaissance.

Located at 53/73 Via Malafrasca, San Pancrazio, San Casciano in Val di Pesa 4 ANTINORI NEL CHIANTI CLASSICO

Among the most renowned wineries in Italy, this cantina belongs to the Marquises of Antinori – wine producers for 26 generations.

TOSCANA WINE ARCHITECTURE In their own words: ‘A network of 14 wineries noted for their impressive architectural and design elements, all designed by leading masters of contemporary architecture. These are true “wine temples”, designed by top names like Mario Botta, Renzo Piano and Tobia Scarpa. These beautiful structures are perfectly integrated with their surrounding landscapes, implementing state-of-the-art

technology in their construction and production processes. Additionally, many wineries host artistic installations and have developed interesting rapports with modern art, creating a vital, innovative and cost-effective cultural system. All 14 wineries have opened their doors for visits and tastings.’ www.winearchitecture.it

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251

It is also one of the oldest family businesses in the world and belongs to the Toscana Wine Architecture circuit. The winery is open to the public for tastings and includes a museum space exhibiting the family history, and a restaurant.

Cantina Antinori can be found by following the signs towards Bargino, just after the hamlet of Santa Cristina in Salivolpe.

After a gentle downhill of 3 km we see the winery along the Pesa River valley, 8 km from Tavarnelle.

133 Via Cassia, Località Bargino, San Casciano in Val di Pesa Tel. 055 2359700 Winery opening times: March to October, daily 10am-6pm (last tour at 4 pm) antinorichianticlassico.it

EATING AND DRINKING OFFICINA SAN PANCRAZIO BRACERIA E GIRARROSTO 42 Via Certaldese, San Pancrazio, San Casciano in Val di Pesa Tel. 055 824 8174 Opening times: (Summer) daily 1-3pm and 7.30-10.30pm Not to be confused with a brasserie, braceria means barbecue house. Suckling pig on a spit, grilled lamb, mixed grill and roasts are all on the menu. Right in the heart of the Chianti district.

RISTORANTE RINUCCIO C/O CANTINA ANTINORI 133 Via Cassia, Località Bargino, San Casciano in Val di Pesa Tel. 055 2359720 Opening times: March to October, daily 12-4pm antinorichianticlassico.it Traditional Tuscan cuisine with a contemporary twist and accompanied by Antinori wines. Set on the cantina’s rooftop, with panoramic views.

6 9

VIA CA

Tavarnelle Val di Pesa

SSIA (SR

2)

Tourist Office

O OR

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A. M VIA

I GA GN

VIA

A.

7 La Fornace

VIA DEL

8 Hotel Borgo di Cortefreda

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PIAZZA D. CRESTI

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PIAZZA GIACOMO MATTEOTTI

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VIA G. GARIBAL

VIA B. NALDINI

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O C ALE ( S

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VIA IV NOVE

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VIA LE

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VIA PALM

VIA E. BERLING

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VIA IV NOVEMB

VIA M

PIAZZA DELLA REPUBBLICA

VIA GIORG

VIA DELL A P AC E

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VIA DELL E F O NTI

AG G VIA

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VIA XXV

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LIB

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VIA XXIII LUG

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9 Park Hotel Chianti

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5 EL CH

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VI A

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VIA D

VIA C

LA PAC

VIA

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F IRENZ

Hotels

ZU

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PA LA 6 Ristorante Pizzeria Ponte Nuovo Z

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4 Fitti Fitti

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1 INZ ON

Restaurants and pubs

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2 Chiesa di Santa Lucia al Borghetto

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historical sites

A AD IE VE STR LA P L DE

VI A A .

Monuments and

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VIA MOCALE

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(S R

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253

From the VII century onwards, upon reaching these valleys along the Via Cassia, the traveller would come across a certain township renowned for its tabernulae, offering food, rest and lodging. Over time, these taverns along the Cassia – the Roman highway linking Florence with Siena and Rome – developed into the comune of Tavarnelle, as we know it today, straddling the Val di Pesa and Val d’Elsa.

In the XII century, by then a major commercial centre, the burg came under the authority of the Florentine Republic. Lacking a proper strategic function to fulfil, however, Tavarnelle was never armoured with defensive walls; until the XIX century, in fact, it remained administratively tied to the neighbouring burg of Barberino Val d’Elsa.

TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE OF TAVARNELLE Located at Piazza Matteotti. Tel. 055 8077832 Opening times: Mon and Sat 10am-1pm; Tue-Sun 4-7pm

TAVARNELLE ON THE INTERNET WWW.TAVARNELLEVP.IT Official homepage of the town council with information about Tavarnelle’s history, culture and events. Italian only.

CHIANTI

Tavarnelle Val di Pesa

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Steeped in viticulture since records began, the territory became part of the Chianti DOCG production district in 1932; some sections also fall within the Chianti Classico and Colli Fiorentini (Florentine Hills) districts.

A stroll through Tavarnelle The oldest edifices stand at the edge of the hamlet, where it borders the Via Cassia. The 1 Country Church of San Pietro in Bossolo, to the north-east, is an XI-century Romanesque basilica which now houses the Tavarnelle Museum of Sacred Art. The 2 Church of Santa Lucia al Borghetto, a Franciscan friary founded in the XIII century, is found to the south.

1 Country Church of SAN PIETRO IN BOSSOLO and Tavarnelle Val di Pesa MUSEUM OF SACRED ART

19 Strada della Pieve Tel. 055 8071195 2 CHURCH OF SANTA LUCIA AL BORGHETTO

Located in Via Borghetto

SAN DONATO IN POGGIO

Medieval village 8 km from Tavarnelle along the SP101road towards Siena. www.sandonatoinpoggio.it

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255

EATING AND DRINKING

4 FITTI FITTI 37 Via Benedetto Naldini Tel. 055 8076271 Open daily for dinner; Sunday also for lunch. Closed Monday www.fittifitti.it A passion for cuisine and a passion for contemporary art blend into one. Chef Myung Sim Song offers a fish-based menu at this establishment.

5 AZIENDA AGRICOLA POGGIO AL BOSCO 5 Via Chiostrini Tel. 055 8076474 Opening times: Mon-Fri 9am-1pm and 2-6pm. Sat 10am-1pm and 4-6pm. Closed Sunday Wine tasting by reservation: May to October Mon-Fri 11am-2pm and 2-4pm, poggioalbosco.it This family-run agricultural concern has been producing wines, extra virgin olive oil and fine grappa since 1960.

6 RISTORANTE PIZZERIA PONTE NUOVO 11 Str. Ponte Nuovo Tel. 055 8076474 Open daily for lunch and dinner.

Closed Monday A short walk from the Park Hotel Chianti: traditional Tuscan fare and pizza.

7 LA FORNACE 2 Via Lavatoi Tel. 055 8076310 Open daily for dinner www.lafornace.net This XVIII-century farmstead is home to a trattoria where guests can savour the sapori di una volta (flavours of bygone times). Sauces are freshly made each day, and the pizzas recommended.

8 RISTORANTE CORTEFREDA 191 Via Roma, LocalitĂ Spoiano Tel. 055 807 3333 Open daily for lunch and dinner www.ristorantecortefreda.com Tuscan cuisine, strictly local produce and a generous choice of locally-produced wines.

CHIANTI

3 OSTERIA LA GRAMOLA 1 Via delle Fonti, Tel. 055 8050321 Open daily for lunch and dinner.

Closed Tuesday, www.gramola.it The menu offers historic dishes prepared with traditional Chiantigiano methods and local produce.

San Pancrazio

Gigliola

3 RA

Fornacette Tresanti

Trecento Lucardo

San Martino a Maiano

Il Pino II

Fiano

Petrazzi

Romita Marcialla

Montebello

Noce

Gorgognano Vigliano

Montaccio

Certaldo 3

Badia a Cerreto

Creato Poggio ai Grilli

Badia a Elmi

Barberino Val d’Elsa

San 2 Donnino

1

Petrognano

Bassetto

San Filippo a Ponzano

lsa eE

Fium

Vico d’Elsa

Sant’Appiano Zambra

Ulignano 4

Tavarnelle Val di Pesa

Linari

Cusona

Pancole

San Giorgio

Cipressino

5

Poggibonsi

Montefalconi

San Gimignano

RA 3

Monteloni

6

Montemorli Monteoliveto

Bibbiano

Bellavista

San Donato

Maltraverso Montecchio

Colle di Val d’Elsa

Campiglia

Selvamaggio RA 3

Boscona Coneo Quartaia Lucciana

0

Ponte Santa Giulia Mensanello Strove

Lano

me

N

Scarna

Onci

Els a

Castel San Gimignano

Staggia

F

iu

5 km

Scorgiano

From Tavarnelle to Colle di Val d’Elsa A couple of kilometres from Tavarnelle, at the medieval burg of Barberino Val d’Elsa, the road starts to dip towards Certaldo, the town of Renaissance writer and humanist Boccaccio.

After crossing the River Elsa, we regain height, on the Pancole road, at the end of which appear the ‘Fair towers of San Gimignano’.

Like every true pilgrim progressing along the Via Francigena, we shuffle through town on foot, unrushed. A gelato in the piazza is a just reward before we saddle up again and head for Colle di Val d’Elsa, the City of Crystal.

CHIANTI

257

258

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259

1 BARBERINO VAL D’ELSA

Barberino was founded in the aftermath of the destruction of Semifonte, a rival to Florence, as a fortified outpost along the Roman Strada Regia.

Arriving from Tavarnelle, from the north, the burg presents itself slightly raised above the Via Cassia; after a brief climb we are soon at Porta Fiorentina, the gate at the start of Via Francesco da Barberino. Here we can take the same street walked by pilgrims since time immemorial.

TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE OF BARBERINO Located at 2 Piazzetta dei Pellegrini . Tel. 055 8075319 Opening times: Mon-Sat 10am-1pm and 3-6pm; Sun 10am-1pm

Located at Petrognano near the turning for San Donnino 3 4 5 From Certaldo onwards, please refer to the description of Stage 4 (From San Miniato to Colle Val d’Elsa) in the chapter dedicated to the Via Francigena (see page 173).

CHIANTI

2 SEMIFONTE

The town was originally founded by the Counts Alberti in 1050, as an imperial fort along the Via Francigena. It enjoyed its heyday between 1182 and 1202.

At the height of its prosperity, Semifonte was braced by a 3-km wall, and the township included churches, palazzi, worshops, warehouses and 300 focolari (families).

Such a show of might and wealth gave rise to the saying: “Step aside, Fiorenza, for Semifonte is now the city” (“Fiorenza fatti più in là, che Semifonte si fa città”).

But Florence hardly stood by to watch: in 1202 Semifonte was stormed and the vendetta ruthless: it was razed to the ground and an edict banned any reconstruction in eternity.

Little survives but the odd pile of rock encrusted by vegetation.

Only towards the end of the XVI century, by concession of the Grand Duke himself, was an exception granted: the small Chapel of St Michael the Archangel, on the site where the castle probably once stood.

The chapel has an octagonal plan and a tiny dome, a replica (downscaled by 1:8) of the famous cupola by Brunelleschi that graces the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore in Florence.

0

Onci

Ponte Santa Giulia

Gracciano

2,5 km

Collalto

Fiu

Scorgiano

Strove

Acquaviva

Lucerena

San Chimento

Pievescola

RA 3

Staggia

Scarna

Maggiano

Mensanello Pian dell’Olmino Lano

Boscona

Selvamaggio

Colle di Val d’Elsa

1

Abbadia Isola

Casone

Case Bolzano

Arnano

Santa Colomba

Colle Ciupi

Bracciano

2

Villa

Canale

Monteriggioni

Castellina Scalo Topina

Selvaccia

Le Querce

Vico Alto

Siena Peruzzo

Ascarello

Le Tolfe Bolgione Le Scotte

Ponte a Bozzone

Pontignanello

Pontignano

Corsignano

Vagliadi

San Miniato

Colombaio

La Ripa

Poderuccio

Monteresi Uopini San Martino Tognazza

Poggiolo

Quercegrossa

San Leonino

Badesse

Lornano

Cignan Bianco

3

N

Quartaia

Coneo

Campiglia

Montecchio

ls a

eE

m

RA

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261

Colle Val d’Elsa–Siena We now leave the Val d’Elsa and traverse Montagnola Senese, the ‘Little Sienese Mountain’ and its landscape of hills and woodland, blissfully quiet with traffic. Montagnola is also scarcely inhabited, and we would advise taking a good break before leaving Colle. Our first few kilometres will entail some urban traffic, a handful of ups and downs, and some stretches of rough track. At the hamlet of Scorgiano we start to climb up the SP 101 road as far as Marmoraia (580 m a.s.l.), the second highest spot of the tour after Badia a Coltibuono.

Our descent takes us past the Castle of Celsa, and once on the valley floor, a brief detour would lead to the hermitage of San Leonardo al Lago. The final few climbs and dips then take us into Siena.

1 CELSA CASTLE

Originally a Sienese outpost along a minor road of the Via Francigena, in the XVI century it was transformed into the residence of renowned architect Baldassarre Peruzzi.

One of the main areas of hilly terrain within the Province of Siena, Montagnola occupies the comunes of Casole d’Elsa, Monteriggioni, Siena and Sovicille. It has been designated a Site of Community Interest on account of its conservation areas, which include natural and seminatural habitats.

The woods are rich with evergreen, holm and downy oak, and red maple; the forest floor abounds with juniper, honeysuckle, rock rose, European holly and strawberry tree.

The holm oak canopy of Montagnola Senese has long provided shelter to Cinta Senese pigs, an

ancient breed that grazes free-range in these woods, feeding on acorns. Ever since the Middle Ages, Montagnola Senese has also yielded marble – the most prized being the Yellow Marble of Siena.

This was extensively used in Renaissance buildings such as the cathedrals of Siena, Florence and Orvieto. Scattered among the woods and dotting the hills are countless medieval castles, Renaissance villas, ancient country churches and hermitages.

CHIANTI

MONTAGNOLA SENESE

262

CHIANTI

In 1554, a few years before the end of the end of the Sienese Republic, the castle was destroyed by imperial troops led by the Medici.

Restoration works carried out over the centuries have radically altered the original style of the edifice, which now appears more like a neogothic manor, surrounded by an Italian garden and a park.

At the foot of its tallest tower is a XVI-century chapel, designed

by Peruzzi himself.

20 SP 101 road to Montemaggio, Sovicille Tel. 06 6861138 www.castellodicelsa.com Tours by prior arrangement – minimum of 4 people/€10 p.p.

2 HERMITAGE OF SAN LEONARDO AL LAGO

The Augustinian Hermitage of St Leonard rose at one time by the waters of Varano, a lake drained in the XVIII century.

It is now immersed in the tranquillity of the woods, shielded by holm and downy oaks, and can be reached via a short stretch of white track.

The XV-century frescoes inside are well worth a visit.

4 Strada dell’Osteriaccia, Località Santa Colomba, Monteriggioni Tel. 0577 317021 Opening times: Tue-Sun 9.30am-3:30pm. Closed Monday Free entry

263

CINTA SENESE

CHIANTI

This breed of pig, distinctive for its black coat and white belt, is endemic to Montagnola Senese and was probably reared here as early as Roman times. The meat is sought after for sausages and cured meats in particular.

According to the regulatory specification, Cinta Senese (‘Sienese belt’) must be farmed free-range (or semi-), with particular attention to the feed – a combination that ensures the meat’s unique flavour (and the pig’s relatively happy existence).

EATING AND DRINKING RISTORO CON PARCO DONATO E DONATA Strada Provinciale 101/B di Montemaggio Tel. 0577 317100 - 338 1197857

donatoedonata.it Open daily. Closed Monday Snacks, refreshments and light lunches all enjoyed al fresco during weekdays.

264

TUSCANY

USEFUL INFORMATION

EMERGENCY NUMBERS

CONSULATES

112 Police National Police Force

U.S.A. Consulate General

countrywide (Carabinieri)

113 Police (Alternative number for State Police in larger towns)

Lungarno Amerigo Vespucci, 38 50123 Florence Tel.: 055 266951

115 Fire

United Kingdom British Consulate

118 Ambulance

Lungarno Corsini, 2

When calling, ask if they speak English:

50123 Florence

they can always put you through to

Tel.: 055 284 133

someone who does.

HEALTH INFORMATION

EU citizens have free access to the Italian

ENIT Italian State Tourist Board

National Health Service. Check with your

- 1 Princes Street - London W1B 2AY

own health authority for any exclusions

Tel.: +44 020 7408 1254

that may affect you.

(Information Office)

Non-EU citizens will generally be charged.

Fax: +44 020 7399 3567

You should seek advice before traveling to

E-mail: info.london@enit.it

ensure that you are adequately covered –

Website: www.enit.it

whether through your travel insurance or

- 630 Fifth Avenue - Suite 1965

private health insurance.

New York, New York 10111

Tel: +1 212 245 5618

MONEY

E-mail: newyork@enit.it

Currency Euro

Website: www.enit.it

Cash Machines are ubiquitous in Italy.

Check with your local bank whether your card is compatible abroad and what the charges may be for using it.

Credit Cards are widely accepted.

Cheques, as elsewhere, are gradually being phased out and rarely used.

INTERNET WI-FI You can find Internet cafĂŠs easily in larger towns and in tourist centres. Middle and top-end hotels have Internet. In most tourism offices and near universities WI-FI Internet access is free.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT The railway network covering the areas visited on this tour is run by: www.trenitalia.com Coaches are used for replacement services when trains do not run, or to provide additional routes.

Taxis are quite expensive.

TUSCANY

265

OPENING TIMES

from any phone shop, while top-ups

Pharmacies: Indicative opening hours:

are available at any newspaper kiosk

Monday-Friday: morning: 8.30/9am-

or tobacconist from 5 €.

12.30pm; afternoon: 3.30/4-7.30pm; Saturday: 8,30/9am -12,30pm. Italian

INTERNATIONAL DIALING CODES

pharmacies generally display a notice

UK + 44

stating which pharmacies are on duty

Ireland + 353

locally outside of normal hours.

USA/Canada + 1

Banks: Indicative opening hours: Mon-

Australia + 61

day-Friday 8.20am-1.20pm; 2.30-3.30

New Zealand+ 64

pm.

If you are dialing an Italian number using

Post Offices: Indicative opening hours: Monday-Saturday 8.30am-1.30 pm Shops: Opening Hours: Monday-Satur-

your foreign Sim card (even if you are calling someone just down the road) you will still need to treat it as an international

day: morning 8.30/9pm -12.30/1pm;

call and precede it by the Italian dialing

fternoon: 3.30/4-7.30/8pm. Addition-

code + 39. Local codes (e.g. 080 for Bari)

ally, many shops have a half-day

start with an 0, which usually needs to be

closure midweek, which varies from

included – and sometimes not,

place to place.

depending on your provider.

Holidays: On national holidays shops are generally shut. Additionally, many

TIPPING

shops, offices and restaurants are

Gratuities are always appreciated in return

traditionally shut for a week or two in

for good service, especially in restaurants.

August. Check locally.

5 to 15% or simply rounding up the bill

Supermarkets: in larger towns are often

is the norm. Most restaurant and pizzeria

open all day Monday-Saturday 9am-

menus will state whether there is a cover

7pm. Check locally.

charge: this generally amounts to one or

Sites and Museums: Please refer to

two euros.

individual entries listed throughout the guide. Many attractions have variable

SUMMER TIME

opening hours which we do not have

In Italy, Summer Time (or Daylight Saving

the space to list in detail, so we would

Time – DST) runs from the last Sunday in

advise you to check locally.

March until the last Sunday in October, providing a longer period of daylight in the

ELECTRICITY

afternoon.

You will need to take an adapter with you for three-point UK and Irish plugs; if

BIKE SECURITY

you come from another English-speaking

Although bike thefts are fortunately rare,

country, find out if your plugs are compat-

we recommend that you lock your bikes

ible with Italian sockets before you leave

securely at all times: the best method is to

home.

thread the chain through the front wheel, the frame and a post – or to a cycling

MOBILE/CELL PHONES

partner’s bike.

Roaming many phone providers worldwide offer upgrades for free or low-

OFFICIAL TOURIST BOARDS

cost usage abroad. Check with your

The official website for tourism in

provider before leaving home.

Tuscany is www.visittuscany.com

Pay-As-You-Go Alternatively, you can

There are also several local tourist agen-

buy an Italian Pay-As-You-Go Sim card cies in the towns where you will pass.

O

L I B E

· · · ·

· · · · ·

O

G I

R

R

·

G

R E E N S

GR EE N S

were born from the need to provide cyclists with background information on the Girolibero tours in Italy and France.

GR EE N S

consist of 3 books: • a tailormade guidebook for cyclists • a complete set of maps for the tour • a roadbook Other G R E E NS are being prepared for: Sicily, Loire Valley, ...

Further information at: info@girolibero.com

GREENS maps, roadbooks and guides are created by Girolibero, the cycling holiday expert for Italy, France and beyond.

Girolibero designs routes along quiet bikeways, backroads and waterways, providing quality bikes, reliable support, generous info packs, comfy accommodation.

Headquarters are located in historic Vicenza, not far from Venice, with a backstage staff of over 40 plus dozens of tour leaders, drivers, mechanics. www.girolibero.it

ISBN 978-88-85606-09-8

ISBN 978-88-85606-09-8

9 788885 606098 â‚Ź [IT/EN/DE] 24,00