SHOP Belgium AW14

www . delvaux . com

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Let SHOP guide you as you explore Belgium. Read about Delvaux, the maker of some of the world’s most sought-after handbags (page 38), the most appealing neighbourhood cafés (page 44), and much more. SHOP is part of Global Blue, a Tax Free Shopping market leader, and publishes guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you everything you need to know about your chosen destination, including the essential stores, boutiques, restaurants and places to visit. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. It’s even easier to claim your tax savings with the Global Blue Card – signing up is free and you can fnd all the details on the website. And don’t forget to download the Global Blue mobile app!

Emma Cheevers

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Welcome to Belgium

Matt Murphy Matt Murphy created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Belgium. He has previously been commissioned by The Economist, The Guardian and The New York Times, among others. His imaginative, conceptual artwork makes him the obvious choice for this cover, inspired by our feature on page 30 about Belgium’s renown for pioneering fashion and its new wave of designers. Read more about our cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

phOTO: KIRSTy ANdRewS

ILLUSTRATION: MATT MURphy

Contributors

Clare Coulson Journalist Clare Coulson is the former fashion editor of the Daily Telegraph and former fashion director of Harper’s Bazaar, for which she is currently contributing editor. She also writes for publications from Net-A-Porter to InStyle. For this issue, she writes about Belgium’s cutting-edge designers. globalblue.com

Adam Dhaliwal Adam Dhaliwal, SHOP’s artworker, is passionate about design and technology. When he’s not at work he’s on the lookout for his next new gadget. Adam is an exercise enthusiast who enjoys working out, which helps ofset his love of food.

Shop Floor E DI TOR I A L Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers Managing editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Matt Murphy Contributor Clare Coulson Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Ruairidh Pritchard Features editor Stephen Doig City guide and lifestyle editor Verity Hogan Fashion and news editor Dominique Fenn Assistant fashion and market editor Ximena Daneri Assistant fashion and news editors Hannah Lewis, Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion assistant Gemma Latham Editorial intern Sammy Ha Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Dorcas Brown Assistant picture editors Kirsty Andrews, Sarah Beyts Picture assistants Grace Bird, Mónica Goya Picture intern Rubi Ali Artworker Adam Dhaliwal Artworking assistants Dionne Hélène, Ai-Lun Huang, Milkha Lala Artworking intern Hibba Sayeed

PU BL ISH I NG Publisher James Morris Online editor Kirsty Welsh Online editorial assistant Katie Ramsingh Online assistants Marina Nelson, Emily Scrivener Commercial editor Justine Clifton Commercial artworking assistant Aaron Carline Commercial artworking interns George Trinick Ellie Vigors, Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese contributing editor Qingya He Chinese translators Xun Ji, Mengjiao Qu, Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi, Yi Zhang Chinese interns Yunhan Fang, Tiantian Liu Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok Associate Russian editor Daria Orlova Assistant Russian editor Kira Savchenko Russian editorial assistant Linda Blank Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Japanese editor Kyoko Nishimoto

Digital manager Eamonn Leacy Digital production manager Funmi Paul-Taiwo Online commercial editor Sally Ashley-Cound Project manager Bina Summan International digital marketing executive Nina Kobalia Digital marketing executive Wenhan Zhang Digital production assistant Paul Lecoanet Advertising and partnership manager Riccardo Canini Distribution and partnership manager Claudia Suárez Print Dane Consultancy GLOBA L BLU E BELGI UM Country manager Jorn Hoogesteijn Marketing manager Kathy van Haaren Customer relations Carla Maes, Ilse Vanachter Account managers Jennifer de Vos, Sophie Herkenne, Kim Joostens Global Blue Belgium, Lambroekstraat 5C, B-1831 Diegem, Belgium

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Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2014 Global Blue

Contents p.36

P ro d u c t s 16 Check Out sHoP selects a standout piece from Belgium this season 18 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories N ews 24 Shop Window one store not to be missed in Belgium 26 News seasonal updates on shops, services and new products F e At u r e s 30 Cover Story: In Its Own Fashion small as it is, Belgium conquered the catwalks of the world in the 1980s, and it continues to do. clare coulson fnds out how 38 In Focus: Delvaux’s Le Brilliant Bag In 1958 leather-goods house delvaux created an icon with Le Brillant. today its design remains innovative yet classic, as Hannah Lewis discovers

e x Pe r I e Nce 44 Café Society Belgium’s best neighbourhood cafés combine a laid-back mood with high-quality cofee, says Verity Hogan Gu I de 49 Maps and guides to Belgium’s top shops and destinations 64 My Neighbourhood Laurent Gerbaud takes sHoP on a tour of Brussels’ saint-Géry and place saintecatherine districts esseNtIA Ls 66 How To Shop Tax Free the simple steps to saving money on your shopping t r A N s L At I o N s

69 Русский Перевод 74 美文翻译 77 日本語翻訳 sou V e N I r 82 the essential item to bring home

Above: Walter Van Beirendonck designs in an exhibition at MoMu fashion museum, Antwerp

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Check Out

CREATIVE SCENTS L’Antichambre founder Anne Pascale Mathy-Devalck originally set out to recreate vintage scents. However she soon discovered the joy of creating her own fragrances and wanted to pass this experience on to her customers by ofering personalised perfumes. After seeking expertise from master perfumers in Grasse, Mathy-Devalck has developed 50 bases from carefully sourced raw ingredients, and these Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 66

can be worn alone or combined in a diverse array of scents. In addition to custom blends, two house perfumes are also available at L’Antichambre, alongside candles and home fragrance. Visit the in-store laboratory in Brussels to concoct your own unique perfume and take home a beautifully packaged and very personal memento or gift. gl L’Antichambre Blend fragrance, from €145 for 50ml, L’Antichambre, 13 place Georges Brugmann, 1050 Brussels, +32 (0)2 343 5513, l-antichambre.com

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TACTILE TREATS

Add texture to otherwise simple silhouettes to make a style statement this season

1. Pinko boots, €478, Pinko, Hiudevettersstraat 42A, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 231 0006, pinko.it 2. La Pomme de Loveley handbag, €465, Gauquie, Leopoldstraat 10, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 232 1775, lapommedeloveley.com

Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 66

3. Caroline Biss necklace, €70, Caroline Biss, 21-21A avenue Louise, 1050 Brussels, +32 (0)2 538 5038, carolinebiss.com 4. Lee Cooper jeans, €89.95, Lynel, 98 chaussée d’Ixelles, 1050 Brussels, +32 (0)2 511 1304, leecooper.com

PHOTO: (1) TOMMASO VECCHI

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5. O’Neill hat, €19.95, O’Neill, Stadsfeestzaal, Meir 78, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 232 7861, oneill.com 6. Eric Bompard coat, €750, Eric Bompard, 57 boulevard de Waterloo, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 513 5623, eric-bompard.com

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7. Roeckl leather gloves, €459, Vincent, Galerie Agora, 33 rue des Eperonniers, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)3 511 5498, roeckl.de

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EYE-CATCHING EFFECT Turn heads at the airport with this cool and quirky ensemble

2. Persol eyewear, €207, Meeussen Galerie Optiek, Nieuwe Gaanderij 38-39, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 232 4837, persol.com 3. Replay sweater, €139, Replay, 33 rue Antoine Dansaert, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 513 2430, replay.it 4. Gaastra jeans, €119.95, Gaastra, Schoenmarkt 6, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 707 0372, gaastra.eu

Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 66

PHOTOS: (1) © GreGOr Kaluza; (2) FraNCO PIzzOCHerO

1. Rimowa Bolero trolley, from €369, Rimowa, Leopoldstraat 6, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 234 3220, rimowa.de

D-Brilliant Cutsâ&#x201E;˘ invented by master Polisher Hedwig Smets and is a registered Trademark owned by Dayekh Gemsâ&#x201E;˘ bvba

The Lotus Collection Appelmansstraat 25 box 23-26, 2018 Antwerp Belgium tel: +32 (0)3 226 11 91 | fax: +32 (0)3 226 21 57 | e-mail: info@dayekh.com

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Shop Window

REPLAY REIMAGINED Italian denim expert Replay continues the development of its retail vision with a concept store in the Meir district of Antwerp. The look takes inspiration from Replayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s commitment to eco-sustainability and has a natural, rustic aesthetic. The store has been designed with rough materials and a tin ceiling, and its carefully devised lighting Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 66

literally highlights the balance between art and matter. Replay is a thoroughly modern brand taking a contemporary approach to its business, and this store is a great refection of the way the company ofsets innovation with respect for tradition and for the environment. Cleverly, these themes are realised without overshadowing the clothes which are, as always, of the utmost quality. hl Replay, Meir 27, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 204 0177, replay.it * for map go to page 57

gant.com

P H OTO G R A P H E D AT YA L E

Cross Campus

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PERFECT SETTINGS

HAY HAS IT ALL

Hailed as the frst multi-brand Belgian designer store in Brussels when it opened in 1984, Stijl is something of an institution among the city’s most fashionable residents. The boutique has one store for men and one for women, and owner Sonja Noël has ensured that the stores ofer a unique experience. In the menswear store, each designer’s work is presented in a space that perfectly refects the collection, be it one of Belgium’s most famous fashion talents or a promising young designer. irs Stijl Men, 6 place du Nouveau Marché aux Grains, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 513 4250, stijl.be * for map go to page 52

Danish interiors brand Hay celebrates the frst anniversary of its Antwerp store this autumn. Bringing Scandinavian style to Belgium, the brand is dedicated to innovative design, sustainability and quality. In addition to its furniture collections, a range of homeware is available including rugs, cushions, quilts and accessories. With a mission to produce the perfect products for modern living, Hay has all you need to make your home both beautiful and functional. gl Hay, Ijzerenwaag 12a, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 344 9501, hayantwerpen.com

Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 66

S H O P | 27

CLEVER COMBINATION Newly launched jewellery brand Uribe is the creation of husband-and-wife team Sion and Tifany Phillips. Tifany’s background in accessories design for the likes of Chanel and Kenzo coupled with Sion’s graphic design and branding expertise make a powerful combination. Inspired by their respective Welsh and Chilean-American heritage, the duo has created a distinctive debut collection of bold and beautiful pieces. gl Hunting and Collecting, 17 rue des Chartreux, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 512 7477, studiouribe.co.uk * for map go to page 52

SHOP THE WORLD

includes a Tax Refund Calculator to tell you how much you’ll save on every purchase you make in every different country you visit. There are also instructions on how to use Currency Choice, our service that allows you to pay in your home currency. globalblue.com

Using our wealth of insider knowledge, we have created a smartphone app to help you to plan your trip. The app gives information on 45 cities in 22 countries – thousands of stores are listed and located on maps, with full contact details and a description of what each store sells. Our maps guide you right to the store and can also be downloaded for offine use enabling you to create your own itinerary. You can also sign up for the Global Blue Card and, once you’re logged in the My Tax Refund wallet becomes available, allowing you to track pending refunds. The app is available in Chinese, English and Russian, and

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Download the Global Blue guide from the App Store or Play Store

PHOTO: bdkz.neT

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CHIC KIDS Founded in 2006 by two young mothers seeking chic yet comfy clothing for children, CdeC has opened a second store in Brussels. CdeC’s well-crafted childrenswear has a playful aesthetic and is designed by the eponymous founder

Cordelia de Castellane and her cousin, Ségolène Gallienne. The new store is a charming space decorated in crisp white with wooden accents and is a lovely place for parents and children alike. hl CdeC, 1384 chaussée de Waterloo, 1180 Brussels, +32 (0)2 375 2745, cdec.fr

BEST OF THE VESTS Five years ago a group of young Belgians wanted to start a new venture based on complete dedication to quality, and they decided to make the most fabulous marcels (vests) in Brussels. Initially ofering only this one item, and doing it incredibly well, Le Fabuleux Marcel was a quick success. Although the range has now expanded to a far wider choice of apparel, the brand’s initial commitment to excellent designs made with love remains. It is now at a shiny new location on rue Léon Lepage. You’d be hard pressed to fnd better basics. hl Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 66

Le Fabuleux Marcel, 10 rue Léon Lepage, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 201 0361, fabuleuxmarcel.com

In fashion How did Belgium, small as it is, conquer the catwalks of the world? Clare Coulson fnds out

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PHOTO: Karel FOnTeyne

its own In the late 1980s a group of six Belgian designers erupted on toÂ the fashion scene, and their story has since become legendary. Ann Demeulemeester, Dries Van

Noten, Walter Van Beirendonck, Dirk Bikkembergs, Dirk van Saene and Marina Yee had studied together at the Koninklijke Academie voor Schone Kunsten

Above: the antwerp Six, from lef to right, Marina yee, Dries Van noten, ann Demeulemeester, Walter Van Beirendonck, Dirk Bikkembergs and Dirk van Saene

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in November 2013). Others such as Walter Van Beirendonck would also go into teaching. But no matter what the future would bring, at that moment the six designers were a force for change in fashion, not only in terms of the shift in taste that they would kick start but also as an inspiration to a new generation of Belgian designers.

Antwerpen (Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp) and were to become known as the Antwerp Six. It was their trip to London Fashion Week in 1988 that put them on the map. As none of the designers had enough money to travel individually to show their collections, they clubbed together and drove a van full of clothes to London. There they made a big impression, with Barneys New York the frst store to place an order. Some, most notably Dries Van Noten and Ann Demeulemeester, would go on to build up incredibly successful and infuential global businesses (though Demeulemeester stepped away from hers Above (clock wise from lef): Ann Demeulemeester; Dirk Bikkembergs; Dries Van Noten, all autumn/ winter 2014/15

PHOTOS: ÂŠ gOruNwAy.cOm

The Antwerp Six emerged just as fashion was undergoing a seismic shift

PHOTO: AlBerTO rugOlOTTO

S H O P | 33

Timing was everything. The Antwerp Six emerged just as fashion was undergoing a seismic shift. Global brands had been developing on diferent continents (Armani and Versace in Italy, and Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein in America) and although entirely diferent they all ofered a very commercial take on womenswear. In total contrast, a new avantgarde fashion was emerging. Japanese designers, including Yohji Yamamoto and Comme des Garçon’s Rei Kawakubo, had burst on to the scene a few years before and with them an entirely new aesthetic was born. It was challenging and cerebral. It was unlike any-

thing else fashion had seen before. So in many ways the scene was already set for the Belgians, whose cool and avant-garde aesthetic excited a new generation of women wanting clothes that chimed with the times. Although the six would go on to show predominantly in Paris, and although they were grouped together aesthetically, they were very diferent. The rich sensibilities of Dries Van Noten, for example, are entirely distinct from Demeulemeester’s dark, rock-infected androgyny. Yet despite this there is something that unites them, as well as the Belgian designers who have followed in their wake.

Collections evolve organically rather than lurching from trend to trend

The Belgian aesthetic was, and is, emotional, individual and about real women rather than extreme ideas of femininity. Collections evolve organically rather than lurching from trend to trend each season. As Demeulemeester explained before she left her namesake label, ‘Every collection is a new step and every step is impotant. I’m never in a hurry. If I want to do something new I want to do it well.’ The Antwerp Six were in many ways ahead of their time and immensely prescient, given the emotion-led world that we live in today. For Demeulemeester the common thread can be traced to the fact that before the Antwerp Six emerged the country had no particular look. Above (clockwise from lef): Walter Van Beirendonck autumn/winter 2014/15; the designer himself; Walter Van Beirendonck autumn/winter 2014/15

PHOTO: © DAN & CORINA LECCA

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PHOTO: AlBerTO rugOlOTTO

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‘In Belgium we don’t have a huge fashion heritage like Paris or Milan. I always felt I had to start from zero so I could create something of my own,’ muses the designer. ‘But it brought a sense of responsibility. I had to do something really good. So maybe this is an ambition that Belgians have.’ Their ascendance certainly put the Koninklijke Academie voor Schone Kunsten Antwerpen on the map. The fashion school from which the six graduated had previously taught mostly Belgian students. But the emergence of these designers confrmed its status as one of the best fashion

Younger stars such as Niels Peeraer are spearheading another new wave of Belgian design

Above (from top lef): Dirk Bikkembergs autumn/winter 2014/15; Walter Van Beirendonck designs at the Stephen Jones and the Accent of Fashion exhibition held at the MoMu fashion museum in Antwerp from 8 September 2010 to 13 February 2011

S H O P | 37

schools in the world and gradually it attracted students globally. And, of course, it gave Belgiumâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own home-grown talent more traction. Designers such as Olivier Theyskens, Haider Ackermann and Raf Simons have gone on to have huge international success, albeit in very diferent ways. Other younger stars such as Niels Peeraer are spearheading another new wave of Belgian design. Although distinctly diferent, they have all learned lessons from those six designers who emerged almost 30 years ago. They have established their own separate styles, and fashion is much the richer for it Above (this page): ceramic vessel by Dirk van Saene for Delvaux

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IN FOCUS:

Delvauxâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Le

PHOTOS: FiLiP VanzieLegHem

In 1958 leather goods house Delvaux created an icon with Le Brillant.

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Brillant Bag Today its design remains innovative yet classic, as Hannah Lewis discovers

Above (from lef): Delvaux La SingularitĂŠ bag; La CrĂŠation bag, both Les Humeurs de Brillant collection

40 | F E AT U R E S

PHOTO: © THESTREETMUSE.IT/MELANIE GALEA

leather-goods houses in the world. In fact it predates the birth of Belgium itself, which was declared independent from the Netherlands in 1830. The house has built up an exceptional reputation across the world. Admired for its ability to be innovative while also maintaining tradition and a core commitment to quality, Delvaux has been at the forefront of many developments in luxury goods. From embracing the increased demand for ultraluxurious handbags to being the frst luxury leather-goods brand

For most women today, life without a handbag is unthinkable. Yet before the development of rail travel, the need for handbags was far from commonplace. In the 19th century, trunk maker Charles Delvaux realised how the rail revolution would impact on women and how, now able to travel, they would want to keep personal items close to hand. So his family frm created bags for this purpose, and in 1908 the company became one of the frst in history to fle patents for handbag designs. Founded in 1829 in Brussels, Delvaux is one of the oldest luxury

Delvaux regards the handbag almost as a form of sculpture

to produce collections in line with haute-couture seasons, Delvaux is an industry game changer. The house of Delvaux has created more than 3,000 handbag designs in its 185 years, each painstakingly developed. The brand regards the handbag as almost a form of sculpture and favours structural shapes for which apparent simplicity depends on intricate craftsmanship. The fnest hides from France and Italy are used, and each Delvaux product is crafted by hand in one of the brand’s workshops in Belgium and France. That Delvaux is a brand of excep-

Above: Tiany Kirilof with Delvaux’s L’Humour from Les Humeurs de Brillant collection

Fnac 9 outlets in Belgium

BOOKS I CD I COMPUTER I DVD I GAMES HI-FI I HOME & DESIGN I KIDS PHOTOGRAPHY I TICKETING I TV FNAC ANTWERPEN Groenplaats

FNAC BRUGGE Markt 18-19

FNAC BRUSSELS City 2 Toison d’Or

FNAC GENT Veldstraat 88

FNAC LEUVEN Vital Decosterstr. 7

FNAC LIEGE Rue Joffre 3

FNAC LLN Centre commercial L’esplanade

FNAC WIJNEGEM Shopping Center

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PHOTO: FiLiP VanzieLegHem

t i o n a l prestige is refected in the fact that it is a royal warrant holder to the court of Belgium, an honour it was frst accorded in 1883. Every Delvaux design is accomplished. But Le Brillant, the

brand’s signature bag, is iconic. It was launched in 1958 to immediate acclaim and quickly became a showpiece item. Created by designer Paule Goethals, Le Brillant has clean lines and soft, rounded edges. Its large central buckle is its only attention-seeking feature, and it exudes the sort of understated elegance that has since become the zenith of stylish dressing. In the decades since its creation it has had an enormous infuence on handbag design. Yet where other bags might shout for attention, Le Brillant is the epitome of timeless style and discreet luxury. Much of the appeal of Le Brillant lies in exquisite craftsmanship. Master craftswoman Brigitte Marcq has worked for Delvaux

for 45 years and knows full well how intricate the process is. ‘Five people take part in the creation of one Le Brillant,’ she explains. ‘The entire process, from cutting the leather to the fnal touches, takes between eight and 10 hours.’ For an artisan at Delvaux, Le Brillant is the most important piece to master because it sets the standard by which the brand’s other bags are judged. ‘When a craftsperson is able to make a Le Brillant, he or she can create any other bag of the Delvaux house,’ Marcq adds. According to Marcq, the continuing success of Le Brillant is down to its very carefully considered design. The bag has a unique structure of 64 pieces of leather and its template has not changed

Above (clockwise from lef): Le Brillant bag in alligator skin; Jackie Kennedy with her Le Brillant bag, 1960s; Delvaux leather stamp

S H O P | 43

PHOTO: maxim aPryaTin

PHOTO: DeLVaux arcHiVes

Tiany Kirilof to Korean fashion lover Kim Na Young, those in the know today carry their Le Brillant with pride. Le Brillant is reimagined each season in new colours and materials. This may be a classic handbag, but the luxury leather house made a name for itself with innovation, and even with its signature piece Delvaux has never stood still. Through the collection Les Hu-

since 1958 because, she says, ‘each element was perfectly thought out’. Thanks to the design and workmanship every bag has impressive longevity, too. A Le Brillant handbag becomes a collector’s piece and is passed down through the generations. From the very start it was loved by the most stylish of women and it is still just as sought-after today. From Queen Mathilde of Belgium and journalist and stylist

The luxury leather house has made a name for itself with innovation

meurs de Brillant (The Moods of Brillant), the brand explores its ability to adapt to changing times and stay at the forefront of creativity. This is a series of nine specialedition Le Brillant handbags, each one embodying a diferent concept, from Le Rêve (The Dream) to La Singularité (The Singularity). Inspired by Belgian artist René Magritte’s painting The Treachery of Images, L’Humour is a classic black Le Brillant inscribed with the legend ‘ceci n’est pas un Delvaux’ (‘this is not a Delvaux’). Embracing the Belgian artistic heritage of surrealist whimsy, this is a bag that fuses modernism with a sense of timeless elegance. From one of the world’s oldest luxury leather-goods houses we’d expect nothing less

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Café SoCiety Belgium’s most popular cafés combine a laidback mood with high-quality cofee and talented baristas. Verity Hogan relaxes at a selection of the country’s fnest

Belgium’s neighbourhood cafés are havens of both peace and activity, depending on whether you want to catch up with work on a laptop, relax with a book, or debate politics. This versatility appeals to both locals and visitors alike, attracting artists, intellectuals and students. Cafés are also typically trend-conscious venues where the interior design tends to be as intriguing as the diverse clientele. globalblue.com

Belgians are among the world’s most discerning cofee drinkers, and cofee beans are now among the country’s highest imports. The current trend, both in cafés and at home, is for premium cofee with superior favours that provide a gourmet experience. The way coffee is presented in many cafés is also distinctive: don’t be surprised to fnd a chocolate trufe served alongside your espresso.

S H O P | 45

OR ESPRESSO BaR a micro cofee roaster as well as a popular café, Or Espresso Bar attracts true cofee enthusiasts. Its expert baristas are passionate about producing the perfect cappuccino or espresso, and the café’s owners travel the world to source the fnest beans available. The café’s use of high-quality beans is

combined with brewing methods that have been specially tailored to each blend, ensuring consistently delicious results. Freshness is guaranteed as is the knowledge of the team of baristas. The industrial styling is also worthy of note. Or Espresso Bar, 13a place Jourdan, 1040 Brussels, +32 (0)2 230 9299, orcoffee.be

PHOTO: judiTH dekker

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NoR Mo CoffEE Normo is one of antwerp’s most popular hangouts, providing a home-away-from-home for cofee enthusiasts and art students alike. Set close to the Koninklijke academie voor Schone Kunsten antwerpen (Royal academy of fine arts in antwerp), it attracts an artistic clientele who help infuse the café

with a bohemian spirit. The artistic mood is refected in the décor, which is minimalist and industrial in tone. The café roasts its own beans on site and its large roasting machines add to the striking quality of the décor. Normo Cofee, Minderbroedersrui 30, 2000 antwerp, +32 (0)495 657243, normocoffee.be

Brazila has been roasting highquality cofee beans in Belgium since 1930 and its cofee shops are instantly appealing thanks to their rich aromas. Visitors to the company’s Bruges branch can watch beans being freshly ground before choosing a seat on the terrace or in the cosy interior. Expect a varied menu of cofees, teas and speciality beverages along with a range of pre-packaged ground coffee to take home. Brazila, Mallebergplaats 1, 8000 Bruges, +32 (0)50 330929, brazila-brugge.be globalblue.com

PHOTO: TOm jOnes PHOTOgraPHy

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Guide

PHOTO: TOerisme Brugge/© Jan D'HOnD

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Belgium, with a look at the country’s must-visit destinations, from the most luxurious jewellers to the coolest concept stores. Start with SHOP’s recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/belgium.

A GlImPSE OF BrUGES Above: the impressive courtyard of Bruges’s gruuthuse, a 15th-century mansion in the shadow of Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk (the Church of Our Lady)

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Brussels DU VE EU

RU N EK E

LIG

R OY ALE

RÉ

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Place Of Interest

Train Station

Hotel

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Tourist Information

S H O P | 51

BrusseLs’ BesT jeWeLLery BouTiques 1. Wouters & Hendrix Design duo Katrin Wouters and Karen Hendrix are known for producing a range of emotive yet timeless jewellery. Wouters & Hendrix, 16 place Georges Brugmann, 1050 Brussels, +32 (0)2 345 0285, wouters-hendrix.com 1

2. Tiffany & Co Known for sourcing the world’s most beautiful diamonds to produce its signature range of engagement rings, Tiffany enjoys a romantic reputation that is internationally renowned. Tiffany & Co, 60 boulevard de Waterloo, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 501 6633, tiffany.com for map go to page 53

3. Bulgari Founded in 1884, Bulgari has become synonymous with Italian glamour, offering a luxurious jewellery collection complemented by a range of watches, leather goods and accessories. Bulgari, 36 boulevard de Waterloo, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 511 6701, bulgari.com for map go to page 53

Rue Neuve

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Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Shopping Centre

52 | G U I D E 3. Stijl Stijl is something of a landmark in Belgium’s fashion landscape, known for stocking both high-end Belgian designer labels and emerging talents. The store now offers pieces by Dries Van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester and Raf Simons, as well as providing a platform for local up-andcoming designers. Stijl, 74 rue Antoine Dansaert, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 512 0313, stijl.be

Top SToreS 1. Café Costume During an appointment-only consultation at Café Costume, the store’s tailors demonstrate their commitment to traditional craftsmanship and high quality fabrics. Café Costume, 24 rue Léon Lepage, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 513 5444, cafecostume.com

2. NDC Made by Hand NDC Made by Hand’s footwear combines the finest Tuscan leather with talented craftsmen to produce timeless styles. NDC Made by Hand, 36 rue Léon Lepage, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 808 3831, ndcmadebyhand.com

Rue Antoine Dansaert

S M OINE

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Non-Global Blue Retailer

Featured In This Issue

CH AU S S

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Wittamer Wittamer’s range includes handmade chocolates, macaroons and pastries. Wittamer, 6-13 place du Grand Sablon, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 512 3742, wittamer.com

Neuhaus Established in 1857 and credited with the invention of the praline, Neuhaus has an illustrious heritage. The company’s warmly decorated boutiques provide an ideal setting for the brand’s high quality range. Neuhaus, 20 avenue de la Toison d’Or, 1050 Brussels, +32 (0)2 513 1547, neuhaus-online-store.com

I TO

globalblue.com

pierre Marcolini Pierre Marcolini is known for his unique flavour blends. Expect flavour options to include pepper, chestnut and patchouli. Pierre Marcolini, 75 avenue Louise, 1050 Brussels, +32 (0)2 538 4224, marcolini.be for map go to page 54

beST CHoColaTe SHopS

XL N● ● MA IS TA P U PA R NA TIER R ● I ● IC E ES EN ● TH RI FF US ● RM O O O & ST E RS PA HA RS ● LE OR U ● TA K N G N FE D ● LIE D' NE L IN R A N K E O VA ● I O W AN NEU P R L SIO ● HE IS TER ● SC L M AN INEL ● P U AC I E T O O U J S ● ALLE T G DE BI FN ER E EN ● L S OR ER ● ST BEL RU GA SYN ESS FIG 7F HÄ LA ● A● CO N D R H I L CK Y AP T ● ● LA XA MM US SC AN IE ● ● EB A O M R ● T H A IT ● DI LLE RL A I ● EU UM S ON I A N F E D U OA P E E L L ● ● MS EM AR UR H O N J L A CIN A R D A ● SA SS TP ● I S YS E U L 0 RS CU OMP IAN T T ● IE MA NA AN E 5 HA O ● P L C B L D E AP P LA MA O ÈC E L I C R O C K RY ● ● DR UN UTR U N ER LO H A B ER TCH ● ES ● R FI IOR ● BR LA ED BU & S N ● S RU E ● BI I JU BO E OM AN GO RI ● CR RM U GE UX ● E R A B Y H L E R LVA A N I ● E C E M AB S R D ● T S AR IG A BO BER O IA N ● GI L Z EG BA L I ● RO OR O A S ● GI T L D S C R O SA R I ● OX E K A P I T E I N C R EP EIS T R A A GI GE AD E O G I L B L NE ● S RG B U TO F ● A U H L' ME SE ● IE IS ON ● ER K 1 LS LE HR ● IT G I A B ' S ●● P.5 C PR INI S N N TO D NI ● ES TIM T TE CO ● MA K A ● C A 1 PA N FA A R L E CI ● 0 ● A C 0 O 1 RG US A NI R I PA U G U È S ● ● PO M O R I L L M I L AU RM EN ● ● EM H E AU R O O ● C Y G G I AT E H R L ● B C E ● I H B O TIT TCH E LP MY RT IEL ● ● A IS PE R A JIM CA YK AR ● ● CE W Y OU A R SC AR ● I .L UV NI L A SC ME ● AV BO SO Y A R B ● X M . L ELO E ● LE D EP ● RO ● N ES A P G TO R ● Y VR I Z I ER IT IO O ● T NB VU N D M L ● PA TE IS IA GA NE ● R S OU IST R A HA CE ● F U L R E R C R S AT T I ● H C EF ON V ES S E C O . OR RO & AT LI NY LV E L FA AT T I F FR

S H O P | 53

Boulevard de Waterloo & Avenue de la Toison d’Or

54 | G U I D E

Avenue Louise K API

L ICA PT ER DO RG A NV Y R BU NO TI G ● B O UR A I A I ND U T DE ● Z A LER MO UE R I ● GA SS E● ● MA ESS LL ● E ● GU WI SO ● OM IA EY ES N ● 1 2 3 R A H L U BA Z R FR SPR ILLE P ● ● Z A IO C A X N EE N M H A MX L ●● ● CEL GM B R N GC R I S CO ● C ● A B K L O PA & C ● CO S N NIA I C I M A XB L A N Y ● ● JE DR ISIO DO NT SS ● ER MA ER V BO ON ● MO ● S U PT I C & R D L O A L Z O 'P O I / C GO RM LDI ● P ● F U O L H A JA IN A R A ● ● W O R C OS S I M H E A S R R ● MA IMI ROP TA I N A A X M B I SE L ● S ● INT OST L R M INE AR S ● UR I L D MA ● AP ROL O ILLE ● RO D NO ● CA DUR R A ON A C A R A RE V E R KO R S ● ● MA JOU ST RM AL GÉ D EL OSE ● E U T ● UN . W B U A B EAR ● RS L ● J.M OUXK GO CH H TE YA MI & B OC ● ● B I J N I C H 'S RO FIT LL B DS ● CE UT ● AN U RC RS P U OY &W O OL I N I O N R IN NO EU ● CH UP LL R E RV E R P E L S H I T ● BA I D L ● R E A E U D 'A O U RU VIL RI E F TL E ● E ● RS YF T H O U B A SE N ● EU FIF T RUE NT W C● B OS E SE ISE BO MA QU NT RK ● LOU E ET R E S TA E ● MAJ LA F E ● F U R N CIS N TIN OT ● F R A S TA RL E● F● ● KO N D R O P I E EL OF LL E● ● SAN U DIE IEL VID R A ERR US ● S A T A A ● C L E N 'S P LPI HA S IER ● ●D E S E E L I ● U D A NN P C N E R AY ● ES K UE TO ● N O U KO O T I A ES BD CO E UP T N B GANT ● UR ● S H H SU S E N T N O S J ILL ● P RO P OI IR D AU IRE WE LE ● CH ● B O N P TO TA R OL ● CO M PE LS ● & V ORD I E LA ● ● DE ERNE RRI D I GD U N A C I N A N E Z S V A● ISO ● MER AH P RE VIA LUIS R ● MA ● SAR IER TO E E LA ● ROD ES IQU BL A Z NS ● IE E ER UT ● E ILL ER PT MA INI ● BO HM E E UR MA UIN S L C RUE 'HE L A OQ CA H O RCO L M E ● ON BER ● A N D DE MAR CK M TI D ● OC M O F N I S ANS E E O T R ● OR ● RR ALL EC IE M SW NDO PIE H L L EL AU OS C O AT N - B E R CR S M U 3 ● L E S H A M AY I P.5 AX ● N AT I D V ● DA ●

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S H O P | 55

Antwerp KEMPENSTRA AT

LO N D E N B R UG

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Place Of Interest

Hotel

Tourist Information

JOR

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page

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STADSFEESTZAAL RUBENS HOUSE HOPL AND

FASHION MUSEUM

SM A R

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56 | G U I D E

Nationalestraat

Lombardevest

AA T TR SS

AA T

BAR

DEVE

ION

IDD

● SCOTCH & SODA

LO M

● TEN

● LITTLE SIENA

● STEP BY STEP

● A.P.C.

● DIESEL MORRISON ● ● NOA NOA HILDE VAN BELLEGHEM ● ● M0815 ZAPA ● ● SANDWICH SCHUMACHER ● ● CLOSED PRINCESS RENAISSANCE ● ● MISS M

● HUIS A.BOON

S T E EL N OH MOBUAW RD EE RV SE VSETS T

● KIEHL'S SACHA ● ● MONAR ● BJÖRN BORG MONAR ● NEW PARIS COSI COSI ● ● LONDRE ESSENTIEL ● DE KLEINE LUC ● WOLK DUCHENE ● ● OMODA FRESH ● ● FRED&GINGER

ORIGNIEEL ● SCOTCH & SODA ● DRIES VAN NOTEN ●

Kammenstraat

N AT

SISSY BOY ●

● CAMPER

● MARLIES DEKKERS AT

● GOUDLAND

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ALE

STR

● TODAY IS A GOOD DAY ● ACCESS ● OSKA ● LILA GRACE

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BITTE KAI RAND ● HADHI ● L.C. FOOTWEAR ●

DAVID MAYER ● GARDE-ROBE NATIONALE ●

ZAPPA ● NATHALIE VLEESCHOUWER ● FRAGILE ●

Huidevettersstr. & Lange Gasthuisstraat EMBOSS TIMEWEAR ● BIJORCA ●

NARA CAMICIE ● PRINCESS BLUE ● ● PRINCESS BLUE LILITH ● ● CHARLOTTE ● WILLEM BOUTIQUE OLIVIER ● DR ADAMS DELFORGES ● ● MAC BEOSTORE ● ● TARACCI

BANANA MOON ● PANDORA ● DODE ZEE COSMETICS ●

● GRAND OPTICAL ● UNICA VERA ● UN JOUR AILLEURS ● MINELLI ● XANDRES ● MAX MARA ● CNB/CKS ● ELÉGANCE ● GERRY WEBER ● CLAUDIA STRÄTER ● LACOSTE ● NESPRESSO ● ZARA JODENSTRAAT ● RIVER WOODS ● HUGO BOSS ● SUBDUED ● FRATELLI ROSSETTI ● GUCCI

AMSTERDAM'S BLAUW ● MARCOZ ● HAMPTON BAYS ● CKS ● COS ● DE GROENE WOLK ●

● ICI PARIS XL ● OXFORD

AMBIORIX ●

DIEP

SST

NINA VAN REMOORTEL ●

Non-Global Blue Retailer

● POMELLATO ● MALIPARMI ● VIE

● RENEE LANG

KO M E

S T R A AT H U ID

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA ● HOME LIFE STYLE ● BOGNER ● MARC CAIN ● BOGGI MILANO ● ETHAN ALLEN ●

H U ID E

G A ST H UIS

Global Blue Retailer

● NEUHAUS ● TALKING FRENCH ● W HOPLAND ● SUPERDRY ● OXFORD WOMEN ● H&M ● EDISAC ● 1000 POOT ● JUST A SHOE

VAN LIMBERGEN GALLERY

MUSEUM MAYER VAN DEN BERGH

SHAMADI LINGERIE ● RUE BLANCHE ●

● OGER ● VERSO ● WOUTERS & HENDRIX

DE MA ● GILOU GI 5 ND TS SARAH H A RY A A E ND LLE IEPL RM ● PACINI A E L D LO RO JE W M E DE ● KO E S E E Y ● Y V GU ER ● GI UT ● PE PAUL ● LONGCHAMP ● ● SMITH POLO RALPH LAUREN ● LOUIS VUITTON ● X-LINE ●

IITTALA ● NICO TAEYMANS ● FALKE ● SUPERTRASH ● STATE OF ART ●

SAXON’S ● PINKO ● NATAN ● TENSEN ● FRED PERRY AUTHENTIC ●

M EI R

H U I D E V E T T E R S S T R A AT

BASE ● MEN’S FASHION ● PETIT BATEAU ● PAUL & SHARK ● CAROLINE BISS ● BROOKLYN ●

● FORNARINA

Komedieplaats & Korte Gasthuisstraat

● 7 CAMICE ● HUGO BOSS

VAN BOMMEL ● TIMBERLAND ● COMPANY ● UNO DE 50 ● GANT ● MASSIMO DUTTI ●

WOLFORD ● PATRIZIA PEPE ●

● REPLAY SAM FRIDAY ● ALL SAINTS INTIMATES ● ● FITTZ LEE ● ● LEVI’S FISH & CHIPS ● HEAVER ● PLAYLIFE PLAYGROUND ● ● ADIDAS PEPE JEANS ● ● ANN ZELIEN SACHA ● ● VANS MONIQUE STAM ● ● RINGS & THINGZ ESSENTIEL OUTLET ● VIER ● UB X-TREME ●

A AT S

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● SCAPA

Place Of Interest

M EI R

RUBENS HUIS

H U I D E V E T T E R S S T R A AT

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Featured In This Issue

Shopping Centre/Mall

Department Store

ICI PARIS XL JUST A SHOE LLOYD SHOES MEN AT WORK SACHA TOMMY HILFIGER

SELECTED SHOPS IN STADSFEESTZAAL:

R A AT

ER G ST

A R EN B

HI LD E CO

1. Rosier 41 The eclectic mix of labels stocked at Rosier 41 includes both Belgian and international designers. Rosier 41, Rosier 41, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 225 5303, rosier41.be

HU I

3. Magazyn Magazyn’s carefully curated interior furnishings reflect its owner’s strictly defined aesthetic. The majority of items are made by hand using natural fabrics and a neutral colour palette, with options ranging from office equipment to large furniture. Magazyn, Steenhouwersvest 34A, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 226 6606, magazyn.be

AntweRp’s coolest concept stoRes

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S H O P | 57

2. Your Your boutique prides itself on originality and stocks a range of fashion, accessories, books, cosmetics and gadgets from a mix of high-end labels and little-known brands. Your, Kloosterstraat 90, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 337 7110, your-antwerp.com

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S H O P | 61 2. Visit the Belfort Climb the 366 steps of the Belfort tower to be rewarded with panoramic views of the city. Bruges Belfort, Markt 7, 8000 Bruges, +32 (0)50 448711, brugge.be/musea

ToP ThinGS To do in BruGES 1. Enjoy epicurean delights Discover the history of Belgium’s most famous gastronomic specialities by touring the Frietmuseum and Choco-Story. Visitors to the Frietmuseum can try a plate of chips in the basement café while Choco-Story offers a selection of recipes that are sure to inspire you to create your own pralines at home.

3. Take a canal ride Gain a striking perspective on Bruges’s historic sights by taking a 30-minute trip around the city’s famed canals.

Frietmuseum, Vlamingstraat 33, 8000 Bruges, +32 (0)50 340150, frietmuseum.be Choco-Story, Wijnzakstraat 2, 8000 Bruges, +32 (0)50 612237, choco-story.be

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62 | G U I D E

TOP TIP The best way to explore Bruges is by bike, as the city is ideally suited to two-wheeled travel. Attractions further afield are also easily reached by bicycle and the medieval village of Damme is an ideal day-trip destination. The village is less than five miles from Bruges, via a cycle path that runs alongside a picturesque, tree-lined canal. Pack a picnic to make a day of it.

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G U I D E | 63

Maasmechelen Village Maasmechelen Village, Zetellaan 100, 3630 Maasmechelen, +32 (0)89 774000, maasmechelenvillage.com Opening times Monday-Friday: 10am-6pm Saturday-Sunday: 10am-7pm

PERFECt DAY

How to GEt tHERE By car Leave the E314 at exit 33 and follow the signs for Leisure Valley. At the roundabout follow the signed access road to Leisure Valley and Maasmechelen Village. the journey from Antwerp and Brussels takes about an hour. By train

10am Admire the theatrical collections on ofer at Stijn Helsen’s artistic store.

there is a regular SNCB train service to Ghent station, which is 20 minutes by taxi from Maasmechelen Village. By bus

2pm Emulate Californian chic with a visit to Michael Kors’ glamourous boutique.

De Lijn runs regular hourly bus services (no 45) from Ghent and Hasselt train stations. the journey takes an hour. By Shopping Express®

5pm Sarah Pacini produces feminine, timeless and elegant collections made from the fnest fabrics.

A direct luxury coach service runs daily from rue du Marché aux Herbes in Brussels to Maasmechelen Village.

64 |

MY NEIGHBOURHOOD: LAURENT GERBAUD Laurent Gerbaud is a talented Belgian chocolatier who is renowned not only for his exceptional confectionery but also for his inspired use of spices and Asian favours in his products. He shares his local secrets with Isabella Redmond Styles chocolatsgerbaud.be

‘My favourite area of Brussels is the central district of SaintGéry and place Sainte-Catherine. Here, it’s easy to do everything on foot and I always bump into a lot of friends en route. ‘Rue Dansaert is often recommended for its designer shopping, but it is also home to some of the best pubs in Brussels. Place du Jardin aux Fleurs, at the end of rue des Chartreux, has some of my favourite neighbourhood pubs and restaurants, too. There are also several Belgian designers there and it is

Above: clam dish at Mer du Nord seafood stall

away from the frenzy of the city centre. Au Daringman in rue de Flandre is one of my favourite secrets as it’s a real local Flemish pub. Recently I’ve also been spending time at Le Bar des Amis on rue Sainte-Catherine, which is a spacious place with a really cool interior and excellent gin and tonics. ‘I can often be found at my favourite café, the tea-room AM Sweet on rue des Chartreux. It is the most delicious and cosy place and has a family atmosphere. I’m also a regular

S H O P | 65

at Café Central at SaintGéry, one of the oldest cafés in the area, which has a lovely wooden interior, the best DJs at the weekend, and cool staf. At weekends, I like to go for brunch at the fea market in place du Jeu de Balle, enjoying a table on the terrace at Pin Pon or at Chaf. ‘If I have friends visiting Brussels, I’ll take them on a food walking tour, from artisanal beers made by Belgian micro-brewers at Moeder Lambic at place Fontainas, to Speculoos biscuits at Dandoy at rue au Beurre. We’ll pass bread and cheese – Charli and Crèmerie de Linkebeek – at Sainte-Catherine, and fnish with a glass of white wine and some maatjes (herrings) at Mer du Nord. No chocolate on the way, only savouries. ‘For a non-food related walk, I prefer the south of Brussels,

Above (from top): Charli; Maison Dandoy

next to my apartment, especially Bois de la Cambre and Forêt de Soignes. Brussels is very green and has plenty of parks even in the centre. It’s a city to discover by walking, taking your time and enjoying little things. Don’t hesitate to ask store staf for advice on less touristy places; they will always be very helpful, and happy to advise you on how to see the best of our city.’

Find out more about Laurent Gerbaud’s neighbourhood at: globalblue.com/ neighbourhood

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Amsterdam Schiphol Airport: Departures 3/landside, next to customs Lounge 2/departures, gate E, ABN AMRO Bank, counter 1 lounge 3/non-Schengen area Departures 3/airside

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Translations werpen), и вскоре после выпуска прогремели на весь мир как «Антверпенская шестерка».

PHOTO: AlberTO rugOlOTTO

РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД

30: In Its Own Fashion

В своем стиле В конце 1980-х шесть бельгийских дизайнеров ворвались на мировую модную сцену, и их история вскоре стала легендой. Анн Демельмейстер, Дрис Ван Нотен, Вальтер Ван Берендонк, Дирк Биккембергс, Дирк ван Саен и Марина Йи вместе учились в Королевской академии изящных искусств в Антверпене (Koninklijke Academie voor Schone Kunsten Antglobalblue.com

Их совместный дебют состоялся в 1988 году на Лондонской неделе моды. В то время ни у кого из них не было денег, чтобы самостоятельно представить свою коллекцию, поэтому они объединились, загрузили одежду в фургон и отправились в Лондон. И сразу произвели фурор, а первый же заказ поступил от магазина Barneys New York. Некоторые из них, особенно Дрис ван Нотен и Анн Демельмейстер, сумели добиться серьезного успеха и построить бренды мирового уровня (сама Демельмейстр покинула свой бренд в 2013 году). Другие, как, например, Вальтер Ван Бейрендонк, нашли себя в преподавании. Но дело даже не в том, как сложилась их профессиональная судьба. Гораздо важнее, что в тот момент шестерка дизайнеров стала той самой силой, способной изменить моду. Причем они не только преобразили тенденции и вкус, но и стали образцом для подражания для молодого поколения бельгийских дизайнеров. Момент оказался весьма удачным. Антверпенская

шестерка удачно вышла к публике в период тектонических сдвигов в мире моды. Крупные бренды тогда активно работали на всех континентах (Armani и Versace в Италии, а Ralph Lauren и Calvin Klein в Америке), и при всех их различиях, предлагали исключительно коммерческий подход к женской одежде. Новый авангард оказался на противоположном полюсе. Дизайнеры из Японии, в том числе Рей Кавакубо (Comme des Garçon) и Йоджи Ямамото, оказались на авансцене за несколько лет до этого. С их появлением в тренд вышла совершенно новая эстетика умная и вызывающая, ничего подобного в моде еще никогда не было. Таким образом, по целому ряду причин, все просто располагало к появлению великолепных бельгийцев. Их привлекательная авангардная эстетика очаровала новое поколение женщин, которым была так нужна созвучная времени одежда. И вскоре премьеры коллекций стали проходить главным образом в Париже. Разумеется, для каждого из них характерен собственный стиль: например, насыщенная чувственность Дриса ван Нотена едва ли похожа на темную андрогинность в стиле рок Анн Демельмейстер. Но всегда остается нечто, что объединяет всех бельгийских дизайнеров, в том числе последовавшее по стопам новых globalblue.com

звезд молодое поколение. Модный стиль этой страны всегда был и остается эмоциональным и индивидуалистичным. Он имеет дело с реальной женщиной, а не с абстрактными представлениями о женственности. Поэтому и коллекции вырастают органично, а не бросаясь от тренда к тренду каждый сезон. Демельмейстер объясняла это так: «Каждая коллекция для меня – это новый шаг, и каждый такой шаг очень важен. Поэтому я никогда не тороплюсь. Если я хочу сделать что-то новое, я стремлюсь сделать это хорошо». Антверпенская шестерка во многом опередила свое время и даже предсказала будущее, ведь сейчас, спустя два десятилетия, мы живем в мире, где эмоциям отводится главная роль. По словам Демельмейстер, до звездного часа Антверпенской шестерки у Бельгии, по сути, не было собственного модного образа: «У нас нет богатого модного наследия, какой есть в Париже или Милане. Я всегда ощущала, что стою у истоков, поэтому могла ориентироваться на собственные идеи, размышляет дизайнер. – Но это подразумевало и большую ответственность. Я должна была сделать нечто по-настоящему хорошее. Возможно, в этом источник больших амбиций бельгийских дизайнеров». Их творческая судьба в значительной мере повлияла

на статус Академию изящных искусств в Антверпене. Раньше сюда поступали преимущественно бельгийцы. Однако теперь она признана одной из ведущих модных школ мира, а студенты приезжают учиться отовсюду. Разумеется, признание соотечественников придал сил и уверенности бельгийским творческим личностям. Оливье Тейскес, Хайдер Аккерман и Раф Симонс добились выдающегося мирового успеха. Постепенно поднимается еще одно молодое поколение, и возглавляет новую волну бельгийского дизайна Нильс Пирае. Их истории совсем не похожи друг на друга. Но они все впитали уроки тех шести дизайнеров, которые почти 30 лет назад вывели бельгийскую моду в авангард. Они выработали особый стиль – и в итоге только обогатили моду. 38: In Focus: Delvaux’s Le Brillant Bag

В фокусе: Сумка Le Brillant от Delvaux

PHOTO: FiliP VanzielegHem

В 1958 году модный дом Delvaux создал культовую сумку Le Brillant. Она стала классикой и в то же время осталась в авангарде современной моде, рассказывает Ханна Льюис Большинство современных женщин не представляют своей повседневности без сумочки. Однако до того как путешествия по железной дороге получили

повсеместное распространение, потребность в дамских сумках была далеко не очевидной. В 19 веке чемоданных дел мастер Шарль Делво сумел предсказать, как именно технологическое развитие повлияет на образ жизни женщин. Он предположил, что получив свободу путешествий, они захотят держать личные вещи поближе к себе. Так семейное предприятие, которым он управлял, заинтересовалось новым направлением, а в 1908 году был зарегистрирован первый патент на модель дамской сумочки. Компания Delvaux – один из старейших в мире роскошных модных домов, специализирующихся на коже: он был основан в Брюсселе в 1829 году. Можно даже сказать, что он старше самой

Бельгии, ведь страна получила независимость от Нидерландов только в 1830 году. В наши дни тысячи людей по всем миру восхищаются умением Delvaux придерживаться своей традиции и в то же время оставаться в авангарде. Кроме того, бренд неизменно хранит верность исключительному качеству. Все это помогает ему не только лидировать в сфере роскоши, но последовательно выстраивать надежную репутацию. Невозможно переоценить и влияние Delvaux на состояние индустрии в целом: когда-то эта компания создала спрос на роскошные сумки, а потом первой стала выпускать готовые коллекции кожгалантереи в соответствии с модными сезонами. За 185 лет под маркой Delvaux вышло более 3000 моделей, и каждая из них была проработана самым тщательным образом. Для этой компании сумка – практически один из жанров скульптуры, где утонченное мастерство напрямую влияет на ясность формы и выраженную простоту стиля. Каждая вещь прорабатывает вручную из лучших видов кожи в одной из фирменных мастерских в Бельгии и Франции. Исключительность бренда подтверждает и статус поставщика Бельгийского королевского двора, полученный в 1883 году. Все модели Delvaux globalblue.com

совершенны и целостны по форме. Но именно Le Brillant можно назвать культовой. Ее премьера состоялась в 1958 году: она сразу получила заслуженное признание и вошла в число тех особенных вещей, обладание которыми – повод для гордости. Дизайнер Поль Гетальс придал Le Brillant ровный силуэт и мягкие, скругленные углы, дополнив лишь одной заметной деталью – большой пряжкой в центре. За прошедшие десятилетия она повлияла на дизайн сумок в целом. Но если другие аксессуары призваны привлекать внимание, то Le Brillant транслирует неподвластный времени стиль и лаконичную элегантность. Своим статусом эта модель во многом обязана неповторимому качеству. Бригитт Марк работает в компании Delvaux уже 45 лет и не понаслышке знакома со всеми тонкостями производственного процесса: «Над каждой Le Brillant работает пять человек, - объясняет она. – Им требуется от восьми до 10 часов на весь цикл - от первых разрезов кожи до финальных штрихов». Именно эта модель задает уровень, по которому судят обо всей продукции бренда, и сотрудники Delvaux осознают свою ответственность: «Если мастер способен проработать Le Brillant, то он или она может создать и любую другую сумку нашего модного дома», - добавляет Марк Она относит непреходящий

успех модели Le Brillant на счет детально продуманного дизайна. Каждая сумка собирается из 64 кусочков кожи, и эти лекала не меняются с 1958 года. Этого и не требуется: по словам Бригитт Марк, «каждый элемент был в свое время идеально проработан». С учетом вневременного стиля и великолепного качества, сумки Delvaux служат многие годы: Le Brillant уже стала предметом коллекционирования, и ее передают по наследству как истинную ценность. С первых же дней она пришлась по душе самым стильным женщинам мира, и ее востребованность только растет со временем. Королева Бельгии Матильда, журналистка и стилист Тиани Кирилофф, знаток моды из Кореи Ким На Янг – самые разные лидеры мнений носят Le Brillant с нескрываемой гордостью. Каждый сезон эта культовая модель переосмысляется в новых цветах и материалах. С одной стороны, она остается классической. Однако Delvaux делает ставку на модные инновации, поэтому старается развивать даже культовые вещи. Например, в коллекции Les Humeurs de Brillant («Настроения Brillant») бренд пробовал на прочность свое умение адаптироваться к вызовам времени и оставаться на передовой креативности в любых условиях. Эта серия включает в себя девять

специальных сумок Le Brillant, воплощающих различные концепты – Le Rêve («Мечта»), La Singularité («Оригинальность») и другие Классическая черная вариация L’Humour создана под вдохновением от картин бельгийского художника éене Магритта из серии «Вероломство образов». Поэтому ее украшает надпись ‘ceci n’est pas un Delvaux’ («Это не Delvaux»). Опираясь на бельгийское художественное наследие, эта сумка успешно сочетает модернизм с неподвластной времени элегантностью. И этот уровень вполне соответствует статусу одной из старейших кожевенных компаний в мире. delvaux.com 66: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

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30: In Its Own Fashion 自成一格像比利时这样的迷你国度是如何征服世界秀场的？Clare Coulson为您解答在 1 9 8 0 年代末期，六名比利时设计师在时尚舞台上崭露头角，他们的故事也自此成为传奇。A n n D e m e u l eester、Dries VanNoten、WalterVan Beirendonck、Dirk Bikkembergs、 Dirk vanSaene与 Marina Yee六人一同在Koninklijke Academie voor Schone Kunsten Antwerpen（安特卫普皇家美术学院）学习，并被并称为安特卫普六君子。1988 年的伦敦时装周之旅让他们初露头角。由于没有足够的经费单独发布自己的作品，六位设计师共同集资，驾驶着装满衣服的卡车一路开到了伦敦。在那里他们引起了强烈反响，并从纽的Barneys百货公司获得了第一张订单。其中最引人瞩目的 D r i e s Va n Noten与Ann Demeulemeester继续奋斗，打造出空前成功与极具影响力的全球事业版图。（但 Demeulemeester

75 于 2 013 年宣告离开她的自名品牌）以 Walter Van Beirendonck为首的若干人亦则投身教学。但无论之后的境遇如何变化，在那刻这六位设计师凝聚成一股颠覆时尚界的力量，他们不仅为业界带来审美口味上的转变，更激励了新一代的比利时设计师。时机就是一切。安特卫普六君子的出现，恰逢时尚界发生激变之时。全球知名品牌分别在不同的大洲上拓展（A rm a n i 与 Ve r s ac e 在意大利，R a lph Lauren和Calvin Klein在美国），这些品牌虽大相径庭，但都出品着高度商业化的女装系列。与之形成鲜明度对比的是前卫时尚的兴起。山本耀司与Comme des Garçon的川久保玲等日本设计师，在这之前的几年突然蹿红，一种全新的的时尚美学得以催生。这是对传统的质疑但也是值得庆贺的事。他们为时尚界带来许多前所未见的东西。所以对比利时人而言时机已经成熟，他们酷感十足的前卫美学，正满足了新一代女性以时装发声、反映时代变革的渴望。虽然安特卫普六君子继续前往巴黎发布作品，并且以组合的方式呈现，但实际上他们之间的差异性相当显著。举例而言，Dries Van Noten作品中饱含的细腻情感，与Demeulemeester 暗黑硬朗的中性化设计截然不同。即便如此，他们仍旧被某些羁绊联合在一起，如同紧随其后的其他比利时设计师一般。比利时式的美学从古至今都是感性、个人化、崇尚真实的女性特质，而非某些极端的女性化概念。他们的作品并非跟着潮流突变，而是循序渐进地有机进化着。正如Demeulemeester离开前所解释的， “每个系列都是新的一步，而每一步都很重要。我从不着急。如果要做些创新的东西，我希望把它做好。” 从今日被情感所主导的世界来看，安特卫普六君子在很多方面都领先于他们的时代，有着预言式的先见之明。对于Demeulemeester而言，她的创作初衷可以追溯到安特卫普六君子出

现之前的比利时，当时这个国家并没有属于自己的风格。 “在比利时，我们并没有像巴黎或米兰那样的庞大时尚遗产。我总是觉得自己必须从零开始，以创作一些真正属于自己的东西， ”这位设计师思考着。 “然而这也催生了某种责任感。我必须要做出一些很不错的东西来。这或许就是比利时人的野心。” 这批先驱者的辉煌为Koninklijke

Academie voor Schone Kunsten Antwerpen（安特卫普皇家美术学院）在时尚界挣得一席之地。在安特卫普六君子诞生之前，这所学校基本只招收比利时本土学生。然而这批设计师的崛起，为其奠定了全球最佳时装学校之一的地位，全球范围内的学生纷至沓来。自然，它对于比利时本土设计人才具有更大的吸引力。 Ol iv ier T heyskens 、Ha ider Ackermann与Raf Simons等设计师分别以不同的方式，获得了全球性的巨大成功。其他后起之秀如Niels Peeraer等人，也正积极推动着比利时设计的新浪潮。这些设计师虽然风格迥异，但都从 30年前崛起的那六位设计师获得了不少领悟。他们各自确立的独特风格，为时尚界带来愈加丰富的可能。

38: In Focus: Delvaux’s Le Brillant Bag 聚焦：Delvaux的Le Brillant手袋在1958 年皮具制造商 Delvaux 推出了标志性手袋 Le Brillant 。该款设计在今日仍不失创意又经典十足，Hannah Lewis报道对大多数当代女性而言，离开手提袋的生活是不可想象的。然而在铁路旅行尚未普及之前，对于手提袋的需求还不广泛。在19 世纪，旅行箱制造商Charles Delvaux意识到铁路革命将对女性造成的影响，当她们开始四处旅行之际，定需要随身携带个人物品。由此，该家族企业

PHOTO: FiliP VanzielegHem

开始制造包手提袋，并在1908成为历史上首个为包袋设计申请专利的公司。 18 2 9 年成立于布鲁塞尔的 D e l vau x ，是全世界历史最悠久的奢侈品皮具制造商之一。事实上该公司的成立甚至要早于比利时建国，后者在 183 0 年才脱离荷兰统治宣告独立。公司很快在世界各地赢得了巨大声誉。Delvaux 在创新的同时保持传统，并以对质量的承诺为企业核心，因此获得了世人的尊崇，D elvau x 也走在各类奢侈品发展的最前沿。从挖掘对超级奢侈手袋与日俱增的需求，到成为首家与高级定制发布季同步推出系列的奢华皮具品牌，Delvau x 是业界游戏规则的制定者。 Delvaux公司在过去185 年中，共推出了3000多个手袋设计，每一款都匠心独具。品牌将手袋视为雕塑的一种形式，偏爱采用结构性强的设计，并以复杂工艺来演绎简约外观。品牌使用来自法国与意大利的顶级皮革，且每件Delvaux 产品都是在位于比利时与法国的车间中手工制作的。Delvaux也是一个拥有无上荣耀的品牌，它持有比利时皇室颁布的皇家认证，并且在1883 年就首次荣获了这份殊荣。每件Delvaux的设计都力求尽善尽美。然而品牌的招牌手袋 Le Brillant是具有时代性的。它于1958 年推出后即刻受到好评，蹿升为炙手可热的单品。设计师Paule Goethals打造的Le Brillant globalblue.com

包拥有简洁的线条与柔和圆润的边缘。包袋中央的夸张搭扣是唯一吸引眼球的部分，它所散发出的低调优雅，俨然成为今日时尚着装的金科玉律。在这款包发布后的几十年间，它对手袋设计产生了深远的影响。尽管不断有新款包袋争相吸引人们的目光，Le Brillant依旧是永恒风尚与低调奢华的缩影。 Le Brillant的吸引力还在于其精湛的制作工艺。工艺大师Brigitte Marcq 为Delvaux 工作了45 年，对其繁复的制作过程了如指掌。 “制作一个Le Brilla nt 包需要五人参与， ”她解释。“从切割皮革到最后上色的全过程，需要 8 到 10 个小时。”对于Delvaux 的工匠们而言，Le Brillant 是需要学会制作的最重要的产品，因为它是该品牌所有包袋的评判准绳。 “当一名工匠可以制作 Le Brillant的时候，他或她就可以制作任何 Delvaux公司的包袋， ”Marcq补充道。 Marcq认为Le Brillant的久盛不衰，还因其经过慎重考量的设计。该款包拥有由64 块皮革组成的独特结构，并且从1958 年以来就从未改变过，因为，她说， “每个组件都是经过深思熟虑的”。归功于设计与工艺，每个包都拥有难以置信的超长使用寿命。每位收藏者都期望拥有一只Le Brillant手袋，并将其代代相传。从这款包诞生之日起就受到时尚女性的追捧，时至今日依旧抢手。从比利时女王 Mathilde，记者兼设计师 Tiany Kiriloff，到韩国时尚名媛李娜英，显贵达人们在今日仍以携带Le Brillant为骄傲。 Le Brillant在每季都选用新的色彩与材质进行重新塑造。这或许是一款经典手袋，但奢华皮具制造商Delvaux 同样以创新闻名，即使是旗下的标志作品仍不例外。在Les Humeurs de Brillant（Brillant 的表情）系列中，品牌探索了不断适应变化时代并居于潮流前列的可能。这个系列中包括九款特别版的Le Brillant手袋，每款都体现着不同的概念，从 Le Rêve（梦）到La Singu-

larité（奇点）。受到比利时艺术家René Magritte的绘画作品The Treachery of Images的启发，L’Humour是一款绣着传奇口号“ceci n’est pas un Delvaux（这不是一只 Delvaux包袋）”的经典款黑色 Le Brillant手袋。从比利时艺术遗产中的超现实主义的奇思妙想中汲取养分，这款包融合了摩登与永恒优雅。Delvaux作为全球最古老奢侈皮具公司之一，远远地超越了大众的期望。 delvaux.com

日本語翻訳

30: In Its Own Fashion 「自分なり」がベルギー風小国ベルギーが世界のキャットウォークを席巻しているのはどうして？クレア・コールソンが答えを見つけた。 1980年代後半に、ベルギー出身の6人のデザイナーがファッションシーンに踊り

66: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时，环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free Shopping）为您节约购物开销。每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联（Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税过程： 1. 消费购物无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格（Global Blue Tax Free Form），并记得保存小票。 2. 申请退税当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联的退税点领取您的退税款。联系方式： taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费€125.01 并且节约高达购买价格16%的税。请注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除管理手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取现金退税手续费。

畅购全球，尊享退税

出た。その話は今や伝説になっている。その6人とはアン・ドゥムルメステール、ドリス・ヴァン・ノッテン、ウォルター・ヴァン・ベイレンドンク、ダーク・ビッケンバーグ、ダーク・ヴァン・セーヌ、マリーナ・イーで、アントワープ王立芸術学院の同窓生だったことから「アントワープ・シックス」として知られるようになる。彼らが業界に足跡を記したのは、1988年のロンドン・ファッションウィークがきっかけだった。誰も単独で参加しコレクションを披露するだけの資金がなかったため、グループとしてエントリーし、ワゴン車に服を満載してロンドンへ。そこで大反響を呼び、バーニーズ・ニューヨークから初オーダーが入る。以来、6人のうち一部（中でもドリス・ヴァン・ノッテンとアン・ドゥムルメステール）は国際的にビジネスを展開して大成功を収め、影響力のあるブランドを築き上げた。（ドゥムルメステールは2013 年11月に自分のブランドを去っているが。）ウォルター・ヴァン・ベイレンドンクなど他の面々は、教鞭もとっている。後 globalblue.com

の展開はどうあれ、この6人はあの時ロンドンでファッション界を変える力となり、テイストの変化を促したばかりか、ベルギーの新世代デザイナーにインスピレーションを与えた。全てはタイミングだった。アントワープ・シックスが台頭してきた時は、ちょうどファッションの大転換期だったのだ。各大陸で国際ブランドが発達し（イタリアではアルマーニやヴェルサーチ、アメリカではラルフ・ローレンやカルバン・クライン）、互いに独自性を持ちながら、まさに一般市場向けのウーマンズウェアをこぞって提供していた。その対極では、新しいアヴァンギャルドファッションが出現しつつあった。山本耀司やコム・デ・ギャルソンの川久保玲など、日本人デザイナーたちが数年前からにわかに台頭し、全く新しい美感が生まれていたのだ。挑戦的で知性に訴える、それまでのファッション界には無かった感覚だ。このように、いろんな点でベルギー人デザイナーが登場する舞台は既に整っていた。そして、彼らのクールでアヴァンギャルドな美学が、時代にマッチした服を求める新世代の女性を興奮させたのだ。 6人はその後はパリでショーを開催することが多くなる。「6人衆」と括られることが多いが、彼らの美的感覚は実は大きく異なっている。たとえば、ドリス・ヴァン・ノッテンのリッチな感性は、ドゥムルメステールのダークでロックかぶれ風の両性的な感じとは全く違う。そうした違いがありながら、彼らを結び、後に続くベルギー出身デザイナーにも共通する何かがあるのだ。ベルギーの感性は昔も今も情緒的で個性的であり、観念としての女性らしさの追求というよりは、現実の女性をテーマにしている。コレクションも、トレンドからトレンドへシーズンごとに急転換するのでなく、有機的に進化する。ドゥムルメステールが自名を冠したブランドを去る前に言ったように、「それぞれのコレ

38: In Focus: Delvaux’s Le Brillant Bag 注目のアイテム：デルヴォーのブリヨンバッグ

クションが新たなステップであり、一つ一つのステップが重要」なのだ。「私は決して先を急ぎません。何か新しいことをしたいと思ったら、それをうまくやりたいんです。」アントワープ・シックスは多くの面で時代を先取りし、情緒が先行する今日の世界を実に鋭く読んでいた。ドゥムルメステールにとって6人の共通点はというと、おそらく「アントワープ・シックスが登場するまで、ベルギー独特のルックスというものが存在しなかった」という事実に行きつくだろう。「ベルギーはパリやミラノのようにファッションの大いなる伝統がなく、いつもゼロから出発しなければならないと感じていました。だから、自分自身のスタイルを創り出すことができたんだと思います」と、彼女は振り返る。「一方で、責任感も感じました。何か本当に良いものを創らなくては、という気持ちです。たぶんそれが、ベルギー出身者が持つ野心なんだと思います。」彼女たちの活躍で、アントワープ王立芸術学院の名が挙がったのは間違いない。同校は以前はベルギーの学生がほとんどだったが、アントワープ・シックスの台頭で世界有数のファッション学院としての地位が確立され、国外からの学生も徐々に増えている。また、6人衆のおかげでベルギー出身デザイナーの影響力が強まったのは言うまでもない。オリヴィエ・ティスケンス、ハイデル・アッケルマン、ラフ・シモンズといったデザイナーは、経緯は大きく異なるが、いずれも世界的大成功を収めている。そして、今またベルギーデザインのニューウェーブを巻き起こしているのが、ニールス・ペラールなど他の若手スターデザイナーだ。それぞれが独特ながら、全員がほぼ 30年前に台頭した6人の経験を踏まえている。自身のスタイルを確立した彼らが加わって、ファッションはますます豊かになっている。

1958年、革製品メーカーのデルヴォーがアイコニックなバッグ「ブリヨン」を創った。そのデザインは古典的でありながら、今も革新性を追求し続けている。ハンナ・ルイスがレポートする。多くの現代女性にとって、ハンドバッグの無い生活は考えられない。だが、鉄道旅行が発達する前は、誰もがハンドバッグを必要とする世界には程遠かった。19 世紀に、トランク職人シャルル・デルヴォーは、鉄道革命が女性に与える影響に思い至り、移動が可能になれば所持品を手元近くに持っておきたいと思うだろうと考えた。そこで、デルヴォー一家が経営する会社はその目的用のバッグを開発。1908年にはハンドバッグのデザインについて特許を申請した先駆け企業の一つとなる。 1829年にブリュッセルで創業したデルヴォーは、世界最古の高級革製品メーカーの一つ。実際、1830年にオランダから独立を宣言したベルギーの建国より古い。その同社は世界中で優れた評判

PHOTO: Delvaux arcHives

を築き上げてきた。伝統を守りつつも革新的で、あくまで品質にこだわる点が高く評価されるデルヴォーは、高級品の発展過程でたびたび先頭に立ってきた。超高級ハンドバッグの需要増大に乗じ、また、高級革製品ブランドとしては初めてオートクチュールシーズンに合わせてコレクションを制作する等、デルヴォーは業界のゲームチェンジャーだ。デルヴォーでは、創業以来185年間で3000点以上のハンドバッグをデザインし、その一つ一つを丹念に開発してきた。ハンドバッグをほとんど一種の彫刻のように考えているため、作品は構造的な形が多く、見た目のシンプルさを複雑な職人の技で実現している。デルヴォーの商品は、フランスやイタリアから取り寄せた最高級の革を用い、一つ一つをベルギーとフランスの同社工房で手作りしている。デルヴォーブランドの格式の高さは、同社がベルギー王室御用達である事実（初用命は1883年）にも表れている。デルヴォーのデザインはどれも洗 globalblue.com

練されているが、象徴的なデザインといえばやはり同ブランドお馴染みのブリヨンだ。1958年に発売されたとたん評判となり、瞬く間に傑作と言われるようになる。ポール・ゲタルスがデザインしたこのバッグは、すっきりしたラインと柔らかな丸みを帯びた角が特徴で、唯一目を引く特徴は中央の大きなバックルだけ。それが醸し出す慎ましいエレガンスは、以来、スタイリッシュな装いの頂点となった。誕生から数十年、ブリヨンはハンドバッグのデザインに多大な影響を与えてきた。他のバッグがあの手この手で注意を引こうとする中、ブリヨンは時代を超えたスタイルと控えめな贅沢の象徴となっている。ブリヨンの魅力は絶妙な職人技の賜物である部分が大きい。熟練職人のブリジット・マルクはデルヴォー勤続45 年で、製造過程の複雑さを知り尽くしている。「ブリヨンを一つ作るのは5人掛かりの作業で、革の裁断から最後の仕上げまでの全工程に8時間から10時間かかります。」ブリヨンは同ブランドの他のバ

81 ッグが評価される際の基準になるため、デルヴォーの職人にとってその製造法をマスターすることはこの上なく重要だ。「ブリヨンを作れるようになれば、デルヴォーの他のどんなバッグでも作れます」と、マルクは言い添える。マルクによれば、ブリヨンの人気が絶えないのはとてもよく考えられたデザインのおかげという。このバッグは64の革片から成る独特の構造で、そのテンプレートは1958年から変わっていない。「各要素が徹底的に考え抜かれたものだから」という。そうしたデザインと職人気質に支えられ、ブリヨンは耐久性も抜群だ。このハンドバッグはコレクターズアイテムになり、代々受け継がれている。誕生した瞬間からスタイリッシュ極まる女性たちが愛してきたブリヨンは、今も人気が高い。ベルギーのマティルド王妃から、ジャーナリストでスタイリストでもあるティアニー・キリロフ、韓国のファッションファン、キム・ナヨンまで、現代のファッション通は誇りをもってブリヨンを手にしている。ブリヨンは毎シーズン、新色や新素材でイメージを新たにしている。古典的なハンドバッグとはいえ、デルヴォーは革新で名を成した高級革製品メーカーだ。同社製品の代表格であるこのバッグについても、歩みを止めることはない。デルヴォーはレジュメール・ド・ブリヨン（気まぐれな輝き）と題したコレクションを通じて、変わりゆく時代に順応し、創造性の最先端に留まる力のほどを試している。これは9つの特別限定ブリヨンからなるシリーズで、ル・レーヴ（夢）、ラ・シンギュラリテ（唯一無二）など各々が別のコンセプトを体現している。ベルギー人アーティスト、ルネ・マグリットの絵画『イメージの裏切り』に発想を得たリュムール（ユーモア）は、流行り廃りのない黒のブリヨンに「ceci n’est pas un Delvaux（これはデルヴォ―じゃない）」という銘を入れたもの。シュールレアリズム的な気ま

ぐれを芸術的伝統として受け継ぐベルギーならではのこのバッグは、モダニズムと時代を超えたエレガンスの融合だ。さすがは世界最古級の高級革製品メーカー。まさに期待通りといえよう。 delvaux.com

66: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 海外でのお買い物が免税にグローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご利用いただきますと、世界各地の有名ショッピング街にある27万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物がお得になります。年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用ください。手続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探します。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グローバル・ブルー？」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のステップを踏むだけです。 1.お買い物お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの免税書類（タックスフリー・フォーム）を受け取ってください。レシートを保管するのも忘れずに。 2.還付請求ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関でレシートに承認印を押してもらってから、グローバル・ブルーの還付事務所で払い戻しを受けます。 €125.01以上のお買い物をすれば、購入価格の最高16％の払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払い戻し額は、付加価値税（VAT）合計から事務手数料を差し引いた金額となりますので、その旨ご了承ください。一部の空港で現金での即時払い戻しをご希望の場合は、取り扱い手数料が免税書類ごとに課されます。

82 | P RO D U C T S

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