TOMMY HILFIGER STORE SCHILDERGASSE 47 KÖLN
If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind. For more than 135 years, the name
customers express when they purchase
“WEMPE” has stood for the utmost
jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of
expertise in the art of making jewellery
jewellery uphold international standards
and timepieces. We offer a unique
and are born in our own atelier. This is
selection of valuable treasures at 28
true for unusual one-of-a-kind items
Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are
as well as for our diverse assortment
especially proud because for more than
of classic pieces with brilliant-cut
a century we have been privileged to
diamonds. And a century-old friendship
contribute to the grand feelings that our
links us with the world’s foremost watch
We accept all credit cards.
www.wempe.com
manufactories. You will find WEMPE
will always be available to meet your
showrooms at the loveliest locations
individual needs. We cordially invite you
in great European metropolises, New
to discover an abundance of interesting
York City and in Beijing. Each shop also
new items and exclusive special models
offers service or advice whenever you
at one of Europe’s leading jewellers. We
require it, so you can be certain that we
look forward to your visit!
Köln, Hohe Straße 66, T +49.(0)221.257 04 40 koeln@wempe.de HAMBURG LONDON PARIS NEW YORK
Beauty and more … visit Europe’s No. 1 perfumery! W E W I L L B E P L E A S E D TO W E LC O M E YO U TO T H E D O U G L A S W O R L D O F B E AU T Y I N C O LO G N E : • Schildergasse 39, 0221 - 920860 • Hohe Straße 148–150, 0221 - 2575964 • Trankgasse 11 (Colonaden, Hbf), 0221 - 1395047
Discover a perfumery tradition that dates back more than 100 years, and enjoy Europe’s largest assortment of leading beauty brands – from exclusive fragrances and luxury skin care to trendy color cosmetic products and fashion accessories. With 1,200 perfumeries in 18 countries, we are dedicated to providing excellent services and personal consultation to our customers.
&+5,67ć…¤çŽ‰ŕŹšĺˆ§đ˜„Šă?¤đ”ĄĽŃ˘ă’?ĺ ¸Đ á–—ÔĄă•‚Ëˆ ŃťŕŞ•ŕŞ•ä‹źŕ¤§đ—‰†ËˆçŽ“â…Ľé¤Ąĺ•łŕť›đ”‰šËˆâ” â„’đ?™śä‘ĽŕŠ ৥ 𕤲ä—?á˘˝Đ„ä”’Ç„ĺˆ§â€ŤÝ™â€Źĺ ‰áŒ¨á…Śŕ¨Źä—Žçˆ‡đ””łç€ƒËˆäšźâ€?ŕ§ƒ Ő“đ‘€„Đ ç€ƒçŽ“â…ĽÇ„áĽšŕŚŤĐ ăŠ đ™…†ă˜¨áŹƒŇŹÇ„
CHRIST JEWELLERS AND WATCHMAKERS IN COLOGNE. Schildergasse 109 ¡ Einkaufszentrum KĂśln-Arcaden (Kalk) ¡ Hohe StraĂ&#x;e 94 ¡ Rhein-Center (Weiden) ¡ City-Center (Chorweiler) CHRIST Juweliere und Uhrmacher seit 1863 GmbH, Kabeler StraĂ&#x;e 4, 58099 Hagen | CHRIST service line 0180/5 32 10 98 (â‚Ź 0.14/min. from a German landline; mobile phone prices max. â‚Ź 0.42/min.) | *price on request | ** white, small internal characteristics, good cut
Only at CHRIST CHRIST DIAMONDS Ring* 585/- gold with rhodolites and brilliant cut diamonds, together approx. 0.15 ct.**
Passion. Made in Germany. The CHRIST DIAMONDS Collection. Experience diamonds in a whole new way at over 200 CHRIST specialty stores throughout Germany.
www.christ.de
10
Editor’s Letter Athens and Thessaloniki Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Buenos Aires Cologne Copenhagen Cyprus
Чехия Düsseldorf Estonia Frankfurt French Riviera
دليل ألانيا
德国指南
Welcome to Cologne Even if you’ve visited Cologne before, you may be surprised to discover the city’s infuence on Germany’s innovative perfume scene – fnd out more in our feature on page 40. In this edition, we also take an in-depth look at the country’s immaculately designed winter fashions (page 46) and discover Porsche Design’s desirable collections (page 52). SHOP is part of Global Blue, a Tax Free Shopping market leader, and publishes guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you everything you need to know about your chosen destination: the top global brands, the local favourites you shouldn’t miss and the essential stores, boutiques, restaurants and places to visit. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. It’s even easier to claim your tax savings with the Global Blue Card – signing up is free and you can fnd all the details on the website. And don’t forget to download the Global Blue mobile app! With this edition of SHOP, the Global Blue app and your Global Blue Card, you’re ready to enjoy the best that Cologne has to ofer.
Emma Cheevers @环球蓝联-GlobalBlue
/globalblue
@GlobalBlue
/GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu
/globalblue
Gothenburg Hamburg Hanover Helsinki Area Holland Iceland Istanbul Italy Lake Saimaa Lebanon London Madrid Milan Munich Naples Nuremburg Oslo Paris Portugal Prague Riga Rimini and Riccione Rome Seoul Singapore Stockholm Stuttgart Switzerland Tokyo Vienna Vilnius /globalblue
ILLUSTRATION: PING ZHU
Руководство Германия
Montblanc Star Classique and Hugh Jackman Crafted for New Heights Manufactured in Switzerland, the Star Classique Automatic, with its slim 8.9 mm 18 K red gold case and its ergonomically shaped case back, is a ďŹ ne companion for an elegant appearance. Visit and shop at Montblanc.com
Munich, Berlin, Cologne, Hamburg, DĂźsseldorf, Frankfurt, Stuttgart, Hannover
fashion | lifestyle | beauty COLOGNE HOHE STRASSE
Enjoy the perfect shopping trip With 36,000 m², GALERIA Kaufhof in Cologne’s Hohe Straße is one of the largest department stores in Europe which combines tradition and modernity. Located in the heart of the cathedral city, where the shopping precincts Hohe Straße and Schildergasse meet, it offers customers the ultimate shopping experience. Enjoy top international brands and latest trends in our fascinating fashion, beauty, home, sport and gourmet food departments. The traditional department store chain celebrates 2014 its 135th anniversary with special offers and events. If you come from a country outside the EU, you can even enjoy tax-free shopping at GALERIA Kaufhof!
Please scan the QR-code with your smartphone to get more information about your GALERIA store Cologne, Hohe Strasse.
GALERIA Kaufhof... ... makes you fall in love with Germany
GALERIA Kaufhof GmbH, Leonhard-Tietz-Str. 1, 50676 Cologne
www.galeria.de
16
Contributors
ILLUSTRATION: NAThALIe LeeS
Nathalie Lees Illustrator Nathalie Lees created the cover for this season’s edition of SHOP Cologne, inspired by our feature about the city’s classic fragrances and Germany’s innovative perfume producers on page 40. Nathalie enjoys conceptualising ideas into simple, elegant images and her versatility has allowed her to work on projects ranging from window displays to iPad apps. She gets her inspiration from flms, old magazines and a good night’s sleep. Read more about our illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.
Gwyneth Holland Journalist and trend consultant Gwyneth Holland works with leading brands and agencies to discover the future, as well as writing for global fashion and trend publications. She is also a founder of fashion trends service Unique Style Platform. globalblue.com
Milkha Lala Milkha Lala, one of SHOP’s artworking assistants, has studied fne art, photography and flm. An avid follower of digital arts and cinema, his interests include Beat Generation authors, vintage guitars and Italian food.
Clare Coulson Journalist Clare Coulson is the former fashion editor of the Daily Telegraph and former fashion director of Harper’s Bazaar, for which she is currently contributing editor. She also writes for publications from Net-A-Porter to InStyle.
Leading WomensWear Brands and CoLLeCtions CoLogne am neumarkt Monday Through SaTurday 10 aM - 8 pM
18
Shop Floor E DI TOR I A L
PU BL ISH I NG
Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers
Publisher James Morris
Managing editor Sally McIlhone
Online editor Kirsty Welsh
Digital manager Eamonn Leacy
Cover illustrator Nathalie Lees
Online editorial assistant Katie Ramsingh
Digital production manager Funmi Paul-Taiwo
Contributors Clare Coulson, Gwyneth Holland
Online assistants Marina Nelson, Emily Scrivener
Online commercial editor Sally Ashley-Cound
Production editor Caterina Mazzolai
Commercial editor Justine Clifton
Assistant production editor Ruairidh Pritchard
Commercial artworking assistant Aaron Carline
Features editor Stephen Doig
Commercial artworking interns George Trinick, Ellie Vigors
City guide and lifestyle editor Verity Hogan
Project manager Bina Summan International digital marketing executive Nina Kobalia Digital marketing executive Wenhan Zhang Digital production assistant Paul Lecoanet
Chinese editor Yuan Fang
Advertising and partnership manager Riccardo Canini
Fashion and news editor Dominique Fenn
Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou
Distribution and partnership manager Claudia Suárez
Assistant fashion and market editor Ximena Daneri
Chinese contributing editor Qingya He
Assistant fashion and news editors Hannah Lewis, Isabella Redmond Styles
Chinese translators Xun Ji, Mengjiao Qu, Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi, Yi Zhang
Fashion assistant Gemma Latham
Chinese interns Yunhan Fang, Tiantian Liu
Editorial intern Sammy Ha
Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok
Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey
Associate Russian editor Daria Orlova
Copy editors Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien
Assistant Russian editor Kira Savchenko
Picture editor Dorcas Brown Assistant picture editors Kirsty Andrews, Sarah Beyts Picture assistants Grace Bird, Mónica Goya Picture intern Rubi Ali Artworker Adam Dhaliwal Artworking assistants Dionne Hélène, Ai-Lun Huang, Milkha Lala Artworking intern Hibba Sayeed
Russian editorial assistant Linda Blank Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb Japanese editor Kyoko Nishimoto
Print Dane Consultancy GLOBA L BLU E GER M A N Y Vice president sales Central Europe Thorsten Lind Country manager Jörg Schönbeck Marketing sales manager Michael Mauerhoff Sales manager Pino Dufter Marketing specialist Mareike Dieckmann Global Blue Germany, Vogelsanger Weg 38, 40470 Düsseldorf, info.de@globalblue.com Regional tourist office Cologne Tourist Board, Kardinal-Höffner-Platz 1, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 346430, cologne-tourism.de SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH - 1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com
Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2014 Global Blue
FOS SIL STORES COLOGNE HOHE STR. 144-146 路 EHRENSTR. 1-3 WWW.FOS SIL .COM
20
Contents p.46
P RoD u C t s 22 Check Out sHoP selects a standout piece from Cologne this season 26 My Favourites accessories designer Michelle elie reveals her top tips for autumn/winter 2014/15 28 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories
52 In Focus: Porsche Design From luxury luggage to standout smartphones, Porsche Design is responsible for a wide range of desirable pieces. Ruairidh Pritchard visits the German label
n ews 34 Shop Window one store not to be missed in Cologne 36 News seasonal updates on shops, services and new products
essenti a ls 70 How To Shop Tax Free the simple steps to saving money on your shopping
F e at u R e s 40 Cover Story: Freshness In A Bottle German perfumers have had a reputation for innovation since eau de Cologne was created. today’s modern fragrances are worthy successors to this classic scent, reports Gwyneth Holland 46 Form And Function German manufacture enjoys an international reputation for precision – and this extends to its fashion brands, writes Clare Coulson Above: Strenesse autumn/winter 2014/15
Gu i De 57 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Cologne, plus useful information for visitors
t R a n s l at i on s 72 Русский Перевод 76 美文翻译 79 日本語翻訳 81 sou v e n i R 82 the essential item to bring home
FUNCTIONALITY IS PART OF OUR FAMILY.
SWISS CHAMP
DIVEMASTER
EXPLORER JACKET
SPECTRA
FRAGRANCE
FLAGSHIP STORE DÜSSELDORF I KÖNIGSALLEE 88 I 40212 DÜSSELDORF BRAND STORE KÖLN I WALLRAFPLATZ 2 I 50667 KÖLN SWISS ARMY KNIVES CUTLERY TIMEPIECES TRAVEL GEAR FASHION FRAGRANCES | WWW.VICTORINOX.COM
22 | P RO D U C T S
HERITAGE MADE MODERN A strong contender for the title of the world’s most famous scarf-maker, Parisian fashion house Hermès has been creating beautiful silk squares since 1937. The brand has a rich equestrian heritage, refected in the horse motif of this design, which has been thoroughly modernised with a comic bookstyle interpretation. The frst Hermès scarves were made with innovative yarn spun from raw Chinese silk, immediately attracting Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 70
the attention of the most stylish Parisians. Today each scarf is woven from the silk of 250 silkworm cocoons. Each design takes years to create as skilled artists search for the perfect inspirations and motifs before selecting the exact shades to be individually screen-printed. The company is constantly developing to remain at the top of its game and a scarf from Hermès is a piece of heritage made modern. hl Hermès Minuit au Faubourg scarf, €250, Hermès, Domkloster 2A, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 420 7560, hermes.com * for map go to page 60
PHOTO: STudiO deS FleurS
Check Out
It’s more fun, when it’s tax-free!
Grand Gourmet
Life tastes great.
Premium One Cromargan®
Knife set 5 pieces instead of 384,75*
Cookware set 4 pieces
289,–
instead of 496,95*
399,– *sum of the prices
Made in Germany
WMF Stores Köln www.wmf.de/flialen
Schildergasse 106-108, Tel. 0221/2576572 Hohe Straße 134, Tel. 0221/2575888
Köln, Breite Straße Karstadt Warenhaus GmbH | Theodor-Althoff-Straße 2 | 45133 Essen
Fashion, Lifestyle & more Our branches in excellent downtown locations of most important German cities provide shoppers with a modern and comfortable environment which makes shopping an experience. Not only strong brands but also our outstanding advisory service and innovative events attract throngs of buyers. Enjoy your next shopping spree on the discovery journey through our store Karstadt Kรถln.
26 | P RO D U C T S
My Favourites: Michelle elie American-Haitian designer and former model Michelle Elie established accessories label Prim in 2010. As well as producing unusual and highly covetable jewellery and handbags, she has worked as a fashion stylist and as editor of fashion-meets-art magazine Garage. Elie, who lives in Cologne, shares her fashion loves and city tips with Hannah Lewis
1. ‘My favourite designer is Nicolas Ghesquière, the new creative director at Louis Vuitton’
1
photoS: (pRoFILE) MaRc BaptIStE; (1) LouIS VuItton; (5) © goRunway.coM
Louis Vuitton handbag, €3,800, Louis Vuitton, Domkloster 2, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 257 6828, louisvuitton.com
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 70
S H O P | 27
2
2. ‘Laura Mercier’s Almond Coconut Milk Soufé Body Crème is a must-have for a little personal luxury and self pampering. I take jars of it in my suitcase on my travels. It is also a perfect little gift’ Laura Mercier Soufé Body Crèmes, 300g, €63 each, Douglas, Trankgasse 11, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 139 5047, lauramercier.com
3. ‘This Rabbit bag has become an icon for me and Prim because of its playfulness and poetry. I love the combination of gold and silver mixed with leather, which makes this bag appropriate for both day and night’
3
Prim Rabbit bag, price on request, Heimat, Mauritiuswall 76-78, 50676 Cologne, +49 (0)221 946 1172, michelleelie.com
4
5
4. ‘I love all the Molecule perfumes by Geza Schoen. I always switch between Molecule 01 and Escentric 01, or sometimes mix the two together. Somehow the perfume melds with the natural pheromones of the wearer’ Molecule 01 fragrance, 100ml, €115, Apropos, Mittelstrasse 12, 50672 Cologne, +49 (0)221 272 5190, escentric.com
5. ‘I fnd that shoes from Prada and Miu Miu are always experimental, fnding new shapes and new materials, exuding a great sense of fun and humour while telling a story’ Miu Miu boots, €690, miumiu.com
globalblue.com
28 | P RO D U C T S
ORANGE BURST Clever layering and a mix of textures and colours will keep you warm yet streamlined this winter
3
1
2
1. Swarovski earrings, €49, Swarovski, Wallrafplatz 8, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 250 9506, swarovski.com
3. Cos polo neck, €49, Cos, Ehrenstrasse 33-35, 50672 Cologne, +49 (0)221 2589 9057, cosstores.com
2. Roeckl handbag, €679, Roeckl, Hohe Strasse 160-168, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 258 0287, roeckl.com Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 70
4. Michael Kors lipstick, €27.99, Douglas, Neusser Strasse 252, 50733 Cologne, +49 (0)221 739 3860, michaelkors.com
PHOTO: (4) RICHARD PIERCE
4
S H O P | 29
5
7
6
5. Gina Tricot gilet, €29.95, Gina Tricot, Schildergasse 52, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 2726 0890, ginatricot.com
globalblue.com
6. Louis Vuitton scarf, €595, Louis Vuitton, Domkloster 2, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 257 6828, louisvuitton.com
7. Mango skirt, €49.99, Mango, Hohe Strasse 90, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 920 7630, mango.com
30 | P RO D U C T S
PEAK PERFORMANCE Practical clothes needn’t be dull. Padded jackets and hard-wearing boots can make a style statement
1. Diesel jacket, €750, Diesel, Ehrenstrasse 69, 50672 Cologne, +49 (0)221 272 4550, diesel.com 2. AM Shoe Company boots, €99.95, Rolandschuhe, Schildergasse 49, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 925 3726, amshoes.de 3. Montblanc watch, €3,490, Montblanc, Wallrafplatz 7, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 250 9580, montblanc.com
4. Rimowa suitcase, €389, Rimowa, Am Hof 3, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 1681 2079, rimowa.com
6. Bang & Olufsen H6 headphones, €399, Bang & Olufsen, Apostelnstrasse 9-11, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 257 3668, bang-olufsen.com
5. Closed shirt, €169, Closed, Apostelnstrasse 14-17, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 2587 9584, closed.com
7. Victorinox backpack, €110, Victorinox, Wallrafplatz 2, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 2806 7270, victorinox.com
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 70
PHOTO: (4) © GREGOR KALUZA; (6) JEPPE SøRENSEN
1
S H O P | 31
2
5
3
4
globalblue.com
6
7
shop calvinklein.com
34 | N E W S
PHOTO: SCANLITHO.TEAMS - BIELEFELD
Shop Window
STANDOUT SERVICE Stylish gentlemen should be sure to pay a visit to Ebinghaus while in Cologne. Opened in 1975, the store brings high-quality Italian menswear to Germany, ofering a range of clothing for business, leisure and evening occasions. The selection is impressive, ofering pieces from brands such as Versace, Ermenegildo Zegna and Cerruti 1881, but Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 70
what really stands out is the service. Years of experience in menswear give the friendly, knowledgeable staf members great insight into just what the discerning male is looking for in terms of style, quality and service. They will fnd out exactly what you need and procure it for you with speed and precision. hl Ebinghaus, Glockengasse 2A, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 257 7390, ebinghaus-koeln.de * for map go to page 65
SCANDINAVIAN DESIGN for EVERYONE E CC O S t o re C o l o g n e – B reit e S t rasse 42 -46 - + 49 (0 ) 2 21 571 64 72 7 E CC O S t o re D ü s s e ld o r f – Graben st rasse 3 - + 49 (0 ) 2 11 863 25 08 6 E CC O S t o re O b e r h au s e n – C ent ro Ober hausen – Cent roal lee 1 37 - +49 (0) 208 2994658
ecco.com
36 | N E W S
LOCAL LEGEND One of Germany’s fastestgrowing fashion brands, Gerry Weber ofers high-quality fashion clothing and accessories for modern women. The brand started in 1973 as a small business and today has grown to ofer fve separate lines, which cater to women of all ages, in all aspects of their lives. In the spacious Gerry Weber store on Schildergasse, visitors will fnd a range of pieces from these various lines. As well as the mainline collection, the store ofers Gerry Weber Edition, a range of fashion-forward casual wear, the Samoon line, which caters for all shapes and sizes without compromising on style, and the youthful and trend-led Taifun and GW lines. hl Gerry Weber, Schildergasse 113, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 2589 9934, gerryweber.com * for map go to page 65
CONFIDENT STYLE Fashion boutique Heimat has always set out to ofer something unique to Cologne. The store initially stocked pieces from a selection of young Belgian designers, including Veronique Branquinho, Bruno Pieters and Raf Simons. Today it presents a broader collection of menswear and womenswear, from labels such as Christophe Lemaire,
Issey Miyake and Comme des Garçons. The vision is to ofer a collection of amazing pieces, relevant to the current evolution of fashion, with a focus on the silhouette. Co-founder Andreas Hoyer describes the Heimat customer as a person with the self-confdence to express themselves and who likes to dress as though every day is an occasion. gl Heimat, Mauritiuswall 76-78, 50676 Cologne, +49 (0)221 946 1172, heimat-koeln.de
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 70
S H O P | 37
PHOTO: SCANLITHO.TEAMS - BIELEFELD
WONDERFUL WEINGARTEN Luxury department store Weingarten is a must-visit store on any trip to Cologne. The four-storey boutique ofers one of the best selections of menswear, womenswear and childrenswear in the city. From Hugo Boss to Ralph Lauren, many of the world’s
SHOP THE WORLD Using our wealth of insider knowledge, we have created a smartphone app to help you to plan your trip. The app gives information on 45 cities in 22 countries – thousands of stores are listed and located on maps, with full contact details and a description of what each store sells. Our maps guide you right to the store and can also be downloaded for offline use enabling you to create your own itinerary. You can also sign up for the Global Blue Card and, once you’re logged in the My Tax Refund wallet becomes available, allowing you to track pending refunds. The app is available
globalblue.com
premier fashion labels can be found here, and alongside regular sizes, Weingarten also provides speciality sizes. Whatever your needs, highly trained members of staf are available to make sure you fnd the ideal clothes and that you feel great wearing them. hl Weingarten, Friesenplatz 19, 50672 Cologne, +49 (0)221 951 4150, weingarten-mode.de * for map go to page 62 in Chinese, English and Russian, and includes a Tax Refund Calculator to tell you how much you’ll save on every purchase you make in every different country you visit. There are also instructions on how to use Currency Choice, our service that allows you to pay in your home currency. globalblue.com Download the Global Blue guide from the App Store or Play Store
38 | N E W S
MIX AND MATCH Take 1940s silhouettes and separates, add a little grunge with slouchy jumpers, leather and animal print, throw in some brightly dyed faux fur, quirky headwear and statement necklaces, and you start to build a picture of the eclectic vision presented by Marc Cain this season. The collection,
which is like a dressingup box of mix-and-match separates, almost shouldn’t work – but it does. Select pieces at random and you can have faith that they will combine to create that perfect vision of nonchalance that is usually so hard to achieve. gl Marc Cain, Mittelstrasse 12-14, 50672 Cologne, +49 (0)221 250 9383, marc-cain.com * for map go to page 64
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 70
The story of Wempe began over 135 years ago with a young watchmaker named Gerhard Diedrich Wilhelm Wempe, whose eye for quality and skills in marketing soon got him noticed by powerful clients. His watch designs were beautiful and accomplished, and by 1907 his success had allowed him to open a fagship in Hamburg. The core values of beauty and quality have remained paramount within Wempe, which is still a familyrun company to this day. This striking Wempe necklace is an absolute showstopper; purchase it as a gift for another or a gift for yourself. hl Wempe, Hohe Strasse 66, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 257 0440, wempe.de * for map go to page 61
PHOTOS (FROM leFT): © gORunway.cOM; MaTTHiaS HOFFMann
JEWELS OF GERMANY
Welcome at Deiter jeweler! In our store you get the original brand watches, gold jewelery, diamonds and jewelery trend at attractive prices. Of course, we can advise you in english and chinese too, please contact us.
𤈕𠡩𦍷𡔈𤌵𡔗𩉠𥅣、𰜇， 𠈕𦚄𠡄，𤝸𡤖𢠐𢠐！𧐦𤝄𰍀𢐂
Köln Schildergasse 50
www.juwelier-deiter.de
PHOTO: M채urer & WirTz
S H O P | 41
German perfumers have had a reputation for innovation since eau de Cologne was created. Today’s modern fragrances are worthy successors to this classic scent, reports Gwyneth Holland German perfumers’ contributions to the world of fragrance have been characterised by innovation and artistry for centuries. Eau de Cologne has long been Germany’s most famous perfume, created by Giovanni Maria Farina in 1709 and worn by all the royal courts of Europe. Farina said that the fresh scent reminded him of ‘an Italian spring morning, of mountain dafodils and orange blossoms after the rain’ – a world away from the heady, sweet, unsophisticated perfumes of the time. His citrus scent with herbal undertones was named eau de Cologne in
honour of his adopted home town, and he created a whole new genre of fragrances in the process. Farina’s invention is still in production three centuries later. Farina’s work went on to infuence the world’s most recognisable eau de Cologne, 4711, which remains hugely popular around the world, both for its classic packaging and its light, zesty scent. Now owned by fragrance company Mäurer & Wirtz, the cologne is still made to its original formula, but the 4711 brand is expanding to reach new audiences, from its breezy new Wunderwasser perfumes for men
Freshness in a bottle
42 | F E AT U R E S
and women to an Italian twist on eau de Cologne, through its Acqua Colonia collection. Germany’s newer perfume houses may not yet have the global reach of an icon like 4711, or the cachet of French perfume, but they are continuing Farina’s pioneering work by building artistry, innovation and
German ‘fragrance artists’ are creating distinctive scents for the true perfume connoisseur
individuality into their fragrances. ‘Germany is a country of innovations, where people are working on their dreams and want to create something new. We don’t just rethink old ways and refresh them, we want to establish new standards,’ says Tamas Tagscherer of niche perfume brand JF Schwarzlose, a Berlin-based house that specialises in luxurious perfumes that epitomise the city’s style. Founded in 1856, JF Schwarzlose was relaunched in 2012 with designer Lutz Herrmann, perfumer Véronique Nyberg and marketer Tamas Tagscherer at the helm. The brand’s latest fragrance, Zeitgeist, encapsulates Berlin’s avant-garde spirit, its changeability and its sensuality through amber, musk and leatherwood combined with synthetic notes such as calone and edelonide. ‘The image of a German perfume brand today is still something new and unusual for most people – they fnd it exciting and innovative,’ says Tagscherer. Projects such as Hamburg’s Biehl Parfumkunstwerke are enhancing Germany’s
81
72 /
76
Previous page: 4711 eau de Cologne
S H O P | 43
reputation for creative, unusual perfumes even further by elevating fragrance to an art form. Renowned perfumer Thorsten Biehl works with some of the perfume industry’s most respected noses to create singular scents available only in very limited editions. Free from commercial pressures, ‘fragrance artists’ such as Mark Buxton, Arturetto Landi, Patricia Choux, Egon Oelkers and Geza Schoen are able to create distinctive scents for the true perfume connoisseur. Geza Schoen’s own perfume brand, Escentric Molecules, ofers unexpected fragrances for perfume purists. ‘For most of my friends, perfume was always too much, too sweet, too heavy, too fruity... I thought it would be nice to wear [scent] more like an aura rather than a typical perfume, so it had to be really linear, almost one-dimensional, yet very sexy,’ says Schoen. The ‘one-dimensional’ perfumes in his Molecules collection are based on a single ingredient, such as ambroxan, vertiveryle acetate or Iso E Super, while his Above (clockwise from lef): JF Schwarzlose perfume production from years gone by; Escentric Molecules 03 fragrance; Zeitgeist and other fragrances by JF Schwarzlose; the brand’s historical advert for the 1A-33 fragrance
44 | F E AT U R E S
Escentric collection is more intricate, ‘playing with the molecule in a larger perfume structure’ by weaving both classical and ultramodern notes together. At Frau Tonis in Berlin, the perfumers take a more personal, but no less inspirational, approach. The brand evokes the clear, distinct perfumes of the past through new fragrances such as the aromatic Aventure, with its notes of cedar wood, amber and pink pepper, Linde Berlin, which evokes Berlin’s famously fragrant linden trees and Violet, based on a perfume created for Marlene Dietrich in the 1920s. To create a genuine signature scent, visitors to the Frau Tonis Berlin store near Checkpoint Above (clockwise from lef): perfumer Thorsten Biehl; Frau Tonis Berlin store; the brand’s fragrances
S H O P | 45
German perfumes’ reputation for quality and innovation is as potent as ever
Charlie can compose their own. Now available at boutiques in New York, Milan, Barcelona and Madrid, Frau Tonis is an example of Germany’s continuing infuence on the perfume world. The brand was founded by Stefanie Hanssen, who believes that German perfumes’ reputation for quality and innovation is as potent as ever. ‘The times in which perfume had to come from France or Italy to get recognised are defnitely over.’ m-w.de, schwarzloseberlin.com, biehl-parfum.com, escentric.com, frau-tonis-parfum.com
46 | F E AT U R E S
Form German manufacture enjoys an international reputation for precision – and this extends to its fashion brands. This winter’s collections from the country’s top labels are all the better for it, says Clare Coulson
Function
S H O P | 47
And
48 | F E AT U R E S
F
ashion is more global than it has ever been, yet national characteristics prevail. The Americans excel at luxe sportswear, no-one produces such beautiful leather as the Italians and Paris remains the destination for utterly chic and feminine style. And, while the idea of German precision is frequently discussed in relation to everything from cutting-edge technology to supercars, it can be applied equally to the country’s fashion labels. Practical, immaculately designed and manufactured, always functional: German brands are starting to celebrate their innate pragmatism and their timing couldn’t be better. Fashion is experiencing a dramatic sea-change as luxury brands everywhere realise that what women really need in their closets are real clothes; timeless building blocks that look good and are easy to wear. Take, for example, Jason Wu’s debut collection for Hugo Boss. Wu, who is best known for his utterly frivolous, incredibly luxurious cocktailwear, wasn’t perhaps the most obvious choice for a brand renowned
PHOTO: © GOrunway.cOM
German designers are fusing pragmatism with high fashion – the results are functional yet also super-chic
81
73 /
77
Previous page: Strenesse autumn/winter 2014/15
PHOTO: © GOrunway.cOM
S H O P | 49
for its pin-sharp masculine tailoring. Yet the marriage has only served to highlight the strengths of the German brand. Ahead of his autumn/winter debut Wu alluded to the brand’s studied perfectionism, jokingly referring to the unapologetically modern Hugo Boss HQ in Metzingen as ‘the campus’. Yet that sense of German precision is clear in Wu’s clothes: the sleekest double-faced cashmere coats, circled at the waist with a neat black military belt; the neat trouser suits with immaculately tailored boyish jackets and gamine tailored trousers; and the plush knitted capes sitting high on Wu’s models’ shoulders before swooping down behind, which look warm yet eminently practical. Wu isn’t the only designer rethinking how to fuse pragmatism with high fashion. Escada’s latest Escada Sport edition is packed with equally practical pieces. Fur jackets are cut close to the body and cinched with belts; parkas or gilets with fur hoods ofer a cosy but lightweight way to wrap up in winter; glossy coats and jackets are insulated with lightweight quilting and padding. All are paired with fat, Above (clockwise from lef): Hugo Boss cashmere coat; Hugo Boss catwalk show; Escada Sport; Escada Sport Manteau jacket, all autumn/winter 2014/15
50 | F E AT U R E S
boyish shoes designed to be functional yet super-chic. At Strenesse it’s a similar story, with sporty, fur-trimmed lightweight parkas and jackets providing warmth over sleek day dresses and leggings. Snug jackets are ofered with insulating fur across the body and knit on the sleeves. And, just as at Hugo Boss, the sleek,
Sportswear offers a particularly potent mix of German precision and tech know-how
modern trouser suit reigns supreme, valued for its practicality but cut to look super-stylish, with slouchy trousers in palest dove grey, charcoal or soft rose beige. Accessories get the practical treatment too. Strenesse tops its clean-cut looks with eminently wearable cross-body envelope bags. At Munich-based MCM, creative director Michael Michalsky’s sumptuous totes have been designed with women’s working lives at the forefront of the design process; separate compartments are incorporated for tech gadgets such as laptops and iPads, while rucksacks are designed with individual pockets in which to compartmentalise possessions. But it’s perhaps in sportswear where German precision and tech know-how mix most potently. The country’s world-class performance sportswear brands, from Adidas Above (clockwise from lef): Strenesse cross-body envelope bag, autumn/winter 2014/15; Hugo Boss headquarters in Metzingen; Strenesse ; MCM, both autumn/winter 2014/15
PHOTO: © MCM/Dan JaCkSOn
S H O P | 51
and Bogner to Porsche Design and Schofel, lead the way when it comes to combining fashion with extreme sportswear. Adidas was able to show of all its latest developments when it dressed the British team at the 2014 Winter Olympics in Sochi. The brand supplied ‘heat pants’, self-heating garments that ensure the optimum temperature for athletes during their warm-up sessions, and Powerweb suits made with a thermoplastic polyurethane that stores and returns elastic energy to reduce muscle fatigue. This may sound very sci-f, but don’t be surprised if the very same technology starts to appear in your wardrobe in the not-toodistant future. And you can bet it will be German brands who ofer it frst hugoboss.com, escada.com, strenesse.com, mcmworldwide.com, adidas.com, bogner.com, porsche-design.com, schofel.com
S H O P | 53
From luxury luggage to standout smartphones, Porsche Design is responsible for a wide range of desirable pieces. Ruairidh Pritchard visits the German label Fashion and functionality are sometimes mutually exclusive: in many cases, they can be polar opposites. However when it comes to design that is practical as well as beautiful, the Germans are experts. Buying German has been a priority for many car lovers for decades, with Porsche being the go-to sports model for motor enthusiasts the world over. More recently, Porsche’s line of clothing and accessories has brought fashionable
consumers around to the idea of buying German. The collection was introduced in 1972 by Ferdinand Alexander Porsche, the founder of the renowned car. Relaunched in 2003 as Porsche Design, the collection now encompasses luggage, timepieces, homeware and eyewear. Electronic products are also included under the umbrella, such as a range of high-end stainless steel BlackBerry smartphones: the most recent,
Porsche Design IN FOCUS:
54 | F E AT U R E S
PHOTO: MATTHiAs HANGsT
the P’9982, is available in an array of fnishing options, including a body which is backed with Italian leather or with crocodile leather. In 2010 Porsche Design launched its selection of engineered leather products, created through high-quality craftsmanship. The collection has featured a leather jacket made from nappa lambskin, which was so exclusive it was limited to 200 pieces worldwide. Other items include a duvet jacket crafted from super-soft kidskin suede and the Tec Flex leather jacket, which incorporates covered zip-pockets and loops for headphone cables.
Speaking about why the engineered leather range stands out, Dr Juergen Gessler, Porsche Design’s CEO, says, ‘It creates an uncompromising link between functionality and aesthetics and fts seamlessly into our product portfolio. Our concept remains unchanged: we don’t follow trends, we set our own accents. The result is that our version of casual chic makes our fashion collections unique.’ Perhaps the best example of the brand’s seamless combination of functionality and fashion is its signature handbag, the TwinBag. Created using the most exclusive leathers
80
75 /
78
and expertly crafted by artisans in Florence, the TwinBag’s most distinguishing feature is its innovative carrying concept – adjustable handles which allow the bag to be worn either as a traditional handbag or as a shoulder bag. Each bag is produced from a single piece of leather, which is then expertly stitched by hand. The lining is made from the softest Alcantara material and the metal fttings, including chrome, silver, white gold and rose gold, are fnished using advanced electroplating procedures. This is the perfect combination of Italian craftsmanship and German design. Previous page: ferdinand Alexander Porsche
PHOTO: GETTy iMAGEs fOr POrsCHE DEsiGN/NEilsON BArNArD
S H O P | 55
The success of the TwinBag led to a collaboration with the Berlin-based painter Thierry Noir who took the TwinBag and incorporated his own signature handpainted ‘heart faces’ to create a special edition which was presented at the 2013 Art Basel Miami Beach and then made available to purchase from selected Porsche Design stores worldwide. ‘The speed of modern life has changed our perception of the world and the only logical conclusion is the combination of minimalist design and functionality,’ says Porsche Design’s creative director Thomas Steinbrueck. ‘Therefore, we have created a look that works
in harmony with this new living environment. Structured but not constructed. Casual and formal at the same time. In particular, we have used the latest techniques of materials development for the production of familiar and yet forward-looking cuts.’ Four decades after its creation, it’s clear that Porsche Design still follows the design principles set by its founder, who maintained that ‘if you analyse the function of an object, its form often becomes obvious’. In the case of Porsche Design, the form is not only functional, and perhaps obvious, but beautiful porsche-design.com
Above (from lef): Dr Juergen Gessler, CEO of the Porsche Design Group; Porsche Design x Thierry Noir TwinBag installation at Art Basel Miami Beach 2013; Porsche Design menswear autumn/winter 2014/15
G U I D E | 57
Guide
PHOTO: HG ESCH/GERMAN NATIONAL TOURIST BOARD
Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Cologne with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from where to go for the best sweet treats in town to a spa with panoramic views of the city. Start with SHOP’s highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our welltravelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/cologne.
A GlimPSe OF COlOGne Cologne’s Romanesque Saint Kunibert’s church is known for its rich furnishings, preserved from the Middle Ages. Note the ornate murals in the chancel, the original fooring surrounding the high altar and the windows from the early 13th century. globalblue.com
58 | G U I D E
Cologne Hotel Boulevard
K YO T O
CHRISTOPHSTR./MEDIAPARK
STR A
SSE
HANS-BÖCKLERPLATZ/BF. WEST ST. GEREON CHURCH
BIS
MA
R
S CK
TR
AS
SE
Mercure Friesenstrasse APPELLHOFPLATZ
FRIESENPLATZ Pullman Hotel
R N R IN
G
Rennaissance
ZO L L E
B REIT E STRAS SE
62
page
SS E
62
HOME 4711
HOHEN
E H R EN ST R A
page
2 page
AACHENER STR. MOLTKESTR.
Barcelo Hotel H A HNE
ST. APOSTELN CHURCH
64
NSTR
page
A SSE
64
RUDOLFPLATZ
NEUMARKT NEUM
RICHARD-WAG NER-STRASSE
ARKT
Hopper Et Cetera 4 Hotel Esplanade
HOH
RA
MAURITIUSKIRCHE
SS
Hotel im Wasserturm
ENR
ST
F TA U
ON
ENS
RO
ING
E
ZÜLPICHER PLATZ
Place Of Interest
U-Bahn
Tourist Information
Shopping Centre/Mall
Train Station
POSTSTR.
Hotel
S H O P | 59
Hotel Domspatz
Savoy
SHOP’S HIGHLIGHTS
ST. URSULA CHURCH
Grand City Hotel
Marriot
Hotel Ludwig COLOGNE MAIN STATION
D -A DEN
Best Western Grand City Köln
Hilton Central
KO N R A
Lindner Residence Hotel
1
Breslauer Hof
A U E R- U F E R
Domspitzen Excelsior Hotel DOM/HBF.
* 2
page
60
Le Meridien Dom Hotel
Hotel Mondial am Dom
3 page
Eden Hotel
Hotel Callas
63
3
Hotel Königshof
page
1 page
61
CM City Class Hotel Cipriani
A PEL A M L E YST
HOH E STR ASS E
Hotel Sonata
CM City Class Residence Hotel
Dorint am Heumarkt
AUGUST
INES T R A S
4
HEUMARKT Maritim Hotel
SE Hotel Mauritius Hotel Lyskirchen
ÜH
LE
N
Hotel Allegro
HOL Z
M
CH BA
MARK
T Art'otel
Global Blue Refund Ofce: Reisebank AG inside Cologne’s main station
Victorinox Pick up some new luggage from Victorinox’s limited-edition Travel in Colour range. Victorinox,Wallrafplatz 2, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 2806 7270, victorinox.com featured on page 31
*
Hotel am Augustinerplatz
65
Strenesse Discover where fashion meets functionality with Strenesse’s sport-luxe collection, available at the brand’s Mittelstrasse boutique. Strenesse, Mittelstrasse 12-14, 50672 Cologne, +49 (0)221 250 9905, strenesse.com featured on page 47
*
CM City Class Hotel Europa
Senats Hotel
Ebinghaus Menswear store Ebinghaus offers an impressive selection, including pieces by Versace, Ermenegildo Zegna and Cerruti 1881. Ebinghaus, Glockengasse 2A, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 257 7390, ebinghaus-koeln.de featured on page 34
Heimat Browse the latest collections from Raf Simons, Issey Miyake, Jil Sander and more at the chic Heimat boutique. Heimat, Mauritiuswall 76-78, 50676 Cologne, +49 (0)221 946 1172, heimat-koeln.de featured on page 36
*
60 | G U I D E
Bulgari The Serpenti collection from luxurious italian brand Bulgari has the kind of iconic status that few lines ever achieve. inspired by the feminine, by the history of italy, and by the legendary ruler Cleopatra, the collection of bags and accessories is a favourite among everyone from fashion editors to Hollywood actresses. This season Bulgari introduces the new Serpenti Scales design, which features a linear frame with a top handle and a modern, architectural shape. The new style is available in a range of colours that cannot fail to brighten any outft. Bulgari, Wallrafplatz 1, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 270 5650, bulgari.com
Am Hof, Wallrafplatz, Domkloster, Komödienstrasse & Bahnhofsvorplatz ENG GA SSE
VITO HERRENMODE ●
● RIMOWA
AM HO F
AC H ER
● BABYLON MÜHLEN GASSE
LIN TGA SSE
Place Of Interest
Restaurant
PHOTO: MauRO FaBBIO STuDIO
H EN M
LUD WIG STR A SSE
A SS E
SSE
Non-Global Blue Retailer Featured In This Issue
SE
GR O SS E NE UG ● XIANG SHOP
ERG A
E
HOHE ST RAS SE
TR A SS
HERZOGSTRASSE
T U NISS
Global Blue Retailer Café
SAL OM O N S GAS
BISCHOFSGARTENSTRA SSE
B ECH
UNTER GOLDSCHMIED
E
KOELN SWEETHEART ● SOUVENIR SHOP I LOVE KÖLN / ● SOUVENIRS LINKE
TR A SS E
Roncalliplatz
ROECKL ● ● NESPRESSO
● VICTORINOX
HR
RIC HA RT ZS
COLOGNE PHILHARMONIE
R TA SC
FP
COLOGNE CATHEDRAL
● SWAROVSKI ● BULGARI ● MEISSEN
● KITON
AU F DE R RU
BRE IT E STR ASS
TRANKG ASSE
● AIGNER ● RÜSCHENBECK/ROLEX ● ZWILLING
Wallrafplatz AM HOF
RÖHRERGASSE
E
Domkloster
U N TE
L AT Z
GESCHENKE AM DOM ●
GA SS
A M ALTEN UF ER
O
KO S T
AM DOMH O F
LH
B URG M AUER
Café Reichard
R A SSE
EL
P.62
Taku
4711 AM DOM ● MONTBLANC ● EYECATCHER ●
TUNISST
APP
MY TIME COLOGNE ● HEALTH & SCIENCE ● A SSE
● DOUGLAS
APOTHEKE DOM/KOSMETI K ● DOM APOTHEKE ● TIME SQUARE ● Bahnhofsvorplatz ● MILLENIA ABASONIC ● SOUVENIRS ● TIME SQUARE COLOGNE SOUVENIRS ● P.22 HERMÈS ● 4711 SHOP ● CHOPARD ● LOUIS VUITTON ● LACOSTE ●
R AS S E
IENSTR
KÖLN TOURIS MUS ● HEALTH AND UV EN IR SO BEAUT Y ● PO INT ● EN IR ● GE RM AN SO UV ● CH OC OL AD E SS OR IES ●
T U NISST
KO M Ö D
BA CH TEL AC CE
U N T E R S A CH SENHA USEN
S H O P | 61
NeSpreSSo Nespresso machines combine style and substance, producing great cofee while also being a pleasure to look at. The newly launched inissia machine is available in a choice of eye-popping colours and the compact design makes it perfect for city living. The inissia is equipped with Nespresso’s expert technology, heats up in a mere 25 seconds and is the lightest Nespresso machine to date, weighing only 2.4kg – so you can enjoy perfect cofee any time and anywhere. Nespresso, am Hof 1, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)211 965 067850, nespresso.com
Hohe Strasse AM HOF
TAS C HE NM AC
BECHERG ASSE
UN TE R HE R
A LT E R MA RKT
UNTER K ÄSTER
HE U M A R K T
STEI NW EG
GÜRZENICH STRASSE
LIN TGA SS E
MA RS P LATZ
MAR TINS TRA SSE
Department Store
● JACOBI
SE
Galeria Kaufof
MÜHLE NGASSE
RAS
SCH ILDE RGA SSE
● TEZENIS ● COTTON ONE ● LEGO ● VERO MODA / JACK & JONES ● BOSE ● WEMPE P.38 ● FLIRT FASHION ● SCHIESSER ● DEPOT
R ST
C&A ● TELEFONICA GMBH / O2 ●
● S OLIVER ● MANGO ● SIDESTEP ● VANS
QUA T E R M A RK T
PF UH L
HOHE STRAS SE
TR A SSE
P ER LE N
HALLHUBER ● PANDORA ● SCHUHHAUS KÄMPGEN ● REVIEW ● CÖLN - CARRE ● ESPRIT EDC ●
BÜRGE
E
HERZOGSTRASSE
TU N IS S
APRIORI BIBA SATURN TISSOT
● RAPHAEL SCHUHMODE ● YVES ROCHER ● R & C MÜLLER ● THE BODY SHOP ● WMF ● ZARA ● BIJOU BRIGITTE ● PIMKIE ● INTIMISSIMI ● KONPLOTT ● INTIMISSIMI ● ADIDAS NEO ● BIBA ● FOOT LOCKER ● COOLWAY ● H&M MEN ● SNIPES FARINA-HAUS ● CADENZA ● CHRIST
SSE
SELECTED STORES IN GALERIA KAUFHOF:
GROSS E BUDENGASSE
AM HOF
UNTER GOLDSCHMIED
L UDW IGST RASS
ACCESSORIZE ● PROMOD ● VERO MODA ● JACK & JONES ● REVIEW ● H&M ● NEW YORKER ● ● BOGNER CLAIRES ● SWATCH ● RIGBY & PELLER ● LUSH ● CLARKS ● BRÜ GÖRTZ17 ● CK E NST HUNKEMÖLLER ● RA
● ROECKL ● ESPRIT ● SIX ● TAMARIS ● TALLY WEIJL ● CALZEDONIA ● BIBA ● H&M UNDERWEAR ● DOUGLAS ● FOSSIL ● PYLONES ● KIKO
U NT ER GOLDSCHMIED
MINORITENSTRASS E
HO H E STRAS SE
GA SS E
T U N IS ST R A S S E
DR US US
THOMAS SABO ● HÖGL ● TOM TAILOR ● GEOX ● FASHION CLUB ● MEDIA MARKT ● VERO MODA ● JACK & JONES ●
62 | G U I D E
Breite Strasse & Apostelnstrasse
RA
SS
E
USS TR A SSE
● WELLENSTEIN
ING ● RA LP H EB
T U NISST R A SSE
RKT
HERZO GSTRAS SE
HA US
4711 BOSE JANSSEN RASIERERSERVICE KRASS OPTIK SOVRANO THOMAS SABO
FÜM ERI E
BOC H
SELECTED STORES IN OPERN PASSAGEN:
● GO LDKOPF PAR
● VIL LER OY & ● BRE E
MA
GÜL S
N EU
● JUW ELI ER P. ● DO UGL AS
MITTELSTRASSE
BREI TE ST R A SS E
SE
● RADIUS
LA
SGAS
● MIA ROMA
FP
Opern Passagen
K R EB
CALIDA ●
RICHMO DSTRAS SE
A P O ST EL N ST R.
MARC O'POLO ●
Karstadt
AS SE
● HANSEN FORM + DESIGN
GR AV IS ●
DuMontCarré
ERM AN N ●
ERT
OPT IK SIM ON ●
ALB
EH RE NS TR
SCHWALBENGASSE
B R EIT E ST RA SSE
AU ER
APPELLHO
BER NH ARD OFF
SST
BURGM
NEVEN-DU MO N T-STRASSE
NU
JUWELIER ● GEOX ZIEGLER ● ● LEDERWAREN TONINO LACHMAYR SCHUHHAUS ● ● SCHWANEN APOTHEKE N+K BIELEFELDER WÄSCHE ● ● THE NORTH FACE HOFJUWELIER ● MAMMUT GADEBUSCH ● ● CAYUNA STRAUSS INNOVATION ● GRIMME ERDE ● BUSCHMANN OPTIK ● URBAN OUTFITTERS ● HEUBEL COLLECTION ● TEE GSCHWENDER ● ● BENCH VAGABOND ● ● BARBOU R GRAVIS ●
G MA
UNTER SACHSENHAUSEN
RASSE
R A SSE ● T U NISST WD R ARK ARD EN IE ● LO EW E GA LER BRI LLE N ● AUG END ÜBL ER FHO LD ● JUW ELI ER KAU KUH N N● MA SSKON FEK TIO BÄR ● ● ULL A POP KEN ● ECC O
BETTY BARCLAY BIRKENSTOCK BONPRIX CAMEL ACTIVE
TRASSE FRIESENS
NST GEREO
ETERNA KULT J.P. GÖRGENS LLOYD MAX KÜHL PLANET PROMARKT RUNNERS POINT
TZ
SELECTED STORES IN DUMONT-CARRÉ :
SCHILDERGA S SE
Ehrenstrasse Cologne’S beSt CaFéS ● WEINGARTE N
P.37
Global Blue Retailer
Department Store
*
Salon Schmitz Frequented by Cologne’s most trend-conscious locals, Salon Schmitz, with its chic vintage-style interior and laid-back appeal, is a great coffee and brunch spot. Salon Schmitz, Aachener Strasse 28, 50674 Cologne, +49 (0)221 139 5577, salonschmitz.com
Non-Global Blue Retailer
M AG N USSTR A
PA L
MST
RAS
SSE
SE
EH RE NS TR
A SS E
A POST ELNST R ASSE
*
BLUTGESCHWISTER ●
Fassbender The ideal café for those with a sweet tooth, Fassbender is known for its divine cakes and confectionery. Fassbender, Mittelstrasse 12-14, 50672 Cologne, +49 (0)221 925 9990, fassbender.de for map go to page 64
● FO SS IL G LU NG ● MU STAN ● BU CH HA ND NI G ● ● GÖ RT Z 17 HE R KÖ S S E WA LT ● MA LU MA N ● TR A BE N SH ER USS ● ES PR IT ERT LA S ● UG DO ALB ● H& M DY SH OP ZA RA ● ● TH E BO A AN OU K ● ● ES TE LL RIS OE S ● MA TA ● SA CH A SH BO ● ● CA MP ER TH OM AS SA E ● IZ ● GU ES S IO N AC CE SS OR LIG RE ● ● TR UE RE JU ST NATU LT B ● MA C ● ● CO S CH E● CO RN ER AI NE BL AN ● YE LL OW LA PO RC EL OT CH &S OD A ● ● RIT UA L SC ● Y ● DA NI EL S LE FR ED PE RR ● CO CC IN EL IKKS ● E ● SIS LE Y BEN ESIS STR ASS AMER ICAN APPA REL● ● KIEHL´ S LEVI’ S ● ● CROCS CARH ARTT ● ● KENNELT SCHMENGL ER PEPE JEAN S ● ● DR.MARTE NS CYBE RPOR T ● ● SNIPES REPL AY ● ● SCOTCH&S ODA WEEK DAY ● ● SIDESTEP ● DIESEL OPT IK-O BER LÄN DER ● CRUMPL ER ● ● CLOSED
Café Reichard Set opposite Cologne’s majestic cathedral, Café Reichard is a traditional teahouse. It’s a perfect spot for afternoon tea and offers an array of delicious pastries. Café Reichard, Unter Fettenhennen 11, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 257 8542, cafe-reichard.de for map go to page 60
Shopping Centre/Mall
S H O P | 63
Minoritenstrasse & Gürzenichstrasse
SE NE UG AS GR OS SE
T
● BLATZHEIM ● TEDDY-KINDERMADEN
● TH.THIEMEYER
HA
Z
AU G
HE
H EUM AR KT
GÜR Z ENICHST RASSE ● BUTLERS
G AT
SE SE
GEORG STRATHMANN ● DAMENMODE MIA ●
AUGUSTINER APOTHEKE ●
SE
ST EIN WEG
AS
M A RTINST RASSE
RG
MA RS PL AT
GÜ LICH P L AT Z
DE
HOHE STRASSE
KT A
UGAS GAS
SE
ODLO ●
HIL
KE NS TR AS
MARSPFOR TENGASSE
SC
● FÜLLFEDER-ZENT RALE
SAN
SE NE
BRÜ C HOHE STRASSE
AN
E
GROS
● BANG & OLUFSEN
LU DWIGST RASS E
ST RA SS E
UNTER GOLDSCHMIED
● MUJI
● MUSIKHAUS TONGER
E
KRONENGASSE
GRO SSE N EUG ASS
MÜHLENGASSE
● MAHI DEGENRING
SCH ILDE RGA SSE
SCHILDERGASSE
C ÄC ILI EN
● DM
L U DW IG STR ASS
HERZOGSTRASSE
T U N ISST R A SSE
● MAX MARA ● DANIELS & KORFF ● APOLLO-O PTIK ● BOGNER ● TOUS ● SCHUHHAU S HERKENRATH ● FRANZ SAUER ● MANUFAKTUM
AS SE
MIN O RIT ENST R A SSE
● MEPHISTO ● RALPH EBINGHAU S
GL OC KE NG
E
AM HO F
LIN
HR
T U N ISST R A S SE
AU F DE R RU BRE ITE STR ASS
ARA ● JACK WOLFSKIN ●
A N D ER R ECHTSCHUL E
RÖHRERGASSE
UST
INE
STR
PI
UM
ARK
.
N PI
ST
RA
SS
E
MadaMe MiaMMiaM Madame Miammiam produces sweet treats that are as pretty look to at as they are delicious to eat. Run by pastry chef anne Schulte-Schmitz, the store is popular with locals for its beautiful celebration cakes as well its tempting selection of petits fours, cupcakes and cookies, and ofers traditional German sweets alongside seasonal favourites. it’s not easy to leave Madame Miammiam empty handed. Madame Miammiam, antwerpener Strasse 39, 50672 Cologne, +49 (0)221 271 9242, madamemiammiam.de
Featured In This Issue
T
64 | G U I D E
Neumarkt, Richmodstrasse & Zeppelinstrasse
ARKT
SE
STR A S
TUNIS
SE SGA S
SELECTED STORES IN NEUMARKT PASSAGE: STIFT + PAPIER STEIFF
● MORE & MORE
Appelrathcüpper SCHILDERGASSE
● G-STAR ● CHARLOTTE EHINGERKRONENGASSE SCHWARZ ● DANIELS ● BRIGITTE VON BOCH CÄ CI LI
EN ST R
SELECTED STORES IN NEUMARKT GALERIE: F L EI S C
A SSE
E
LIZ WEINMANN PALMERS LEJABY RE:STORE REFORMHAUS BACHER SOVRANO TCHIBO ZERO PRIMARK
ING
L EO N H ARD -TIE
GA BAYA RD S
PIP IN S TR
AS SE
N E U KÖ L L N E R S T R A S S E
NR
E R GASSE
FE
APOTHEKE AM NEUMARKT ELÉGANCE ES SIEMENS JUWELIER GANT GOLDKOPF PARFÜMERIE HALLHUBER HM E NG
U TA
WORMS ● WÄSCHEFACHGESC HÄFT
NS
CLEMENSSTR A SSE
HE
MAUR ITIUSS TEINW EG
HO
● MARTIN SCHIFFGEN
S
AF CH A
T RA SS E ENS
● TCHIBO
NEUM
● GÖRTZ ● ERICH ORTLOFF
Neumarkt Galerie
AR K T UM
NE
HAHNENSTRASSE
Neumarkt Passage
Karstadt
MAYERSCHE ● BUCHHANDLUNG ● TK MAXX
FOTO GREGOR ● RASIERER STAHLWAREN JANSSEN ●
● GLOBE-TROTTER
THIE BOL DG ASS
MITTELSTRASSE
AS SE
KOLUMBASTRASSE
AS
SE
LLOYD CONCEPT STORE ●
GL OC KE NG
ZE PP EL INS T R.
AP OST ELN ST R
GERTRU DENSTR ASSE
GROSSE BRINKGAS SE
HABITAT ● PETIT BATEAU ● DANIELS ● SCHMUCKGALERIE MOMMEN ● ROSENTHAL ● THALIA-BUCHHANDLUNG ● BERTRAM & FRANK HERRENMODEN ●
PINOCCHIO KINDERMODEN ● JUWELIER ANTONIO M.KRINGS ● JACK WOLFSKIN ●
E
KR EB
A SS E
RICHM ODST R.
EH RE NS TR
BRE IT E STR ASS
BREITE STR A S SE
BR EITE S TRASSE
TZ-ST RA SS E
SS E
Mittelstrasse
GROSSE BRINKGASSE
MITTELSTRASSE ● ● ● ●
7FAM WOLFORD COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS EVELYN BRAND BERLIN PALMERS LEJABY ● ZARA HOME LUMAS COMMA GOLDSCHMIEDE BÖCKING
RPEAT AUBADE LAUREL APROPOS THE CONCEPT STORE
E
● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
FR IE SE
PHOTO: KOELN TOURISMUS GMBH/ANDREAS MöLTGEN
● LA BELLE
BEN ESIS STR ASS
CHRIST FASHION BCBGMAXAZRIA BASLER PERMANENT KONPLOTT P.82 BRILLEN HALLERBACH
Department Store
A SS E
GERRY WEBER ● A P O STEL NSTR ASSE BERGHOFF JEWELLERS ● BORGARDS ● LLOYD ● SCHUHHAUS SCHWAEPPE ● BUTSCHEID ● P.62 Fassbender SØR ● STRENESSE ● THE CONCEPT STORE ● GUCCI ● PRINCESSE TAM TAM ● ALESSI ● WUNDERHAUS ● P.38 MARC CAIN ● STEFANEL● AIGNER ● NAVYBOOT ● LACOSTE ●
MITTELSTRASSE ● ● ● ● ● ●
Non-Global Blue Retailer Featured In This Issue
EH RE NS TR
LOUD ● ROSA ● SEEBERGER & SCHNEIDER ● CLAUDIA CARPENDALE ● MARINA RINALDI ● ELSWEILER + TEMME ● SPERA ●
If you’re brave enough, climb the 533 steps to the top of Cologne cathedral’s south tower, and enjoy the incredible panoramic views as your reward.
Global Blue Retailer Café
BROOKER SCHUHHANDEL ● ONKEL BILL KINDERLADEN ● HAWES & CURTIS ● DON’S MEN’S SHOP ●
NWAL L
TOP TIP
● LA LUNA
HAHNENST RASSE
SCH
AA FEN ST R ASS E
Shopping Centre/Mall
S H O P | 65
Schildergasse MIN O RIT ENS TR A SSE
GLOCKENGA SSE
● EBINGHAUS
GA SS E
LUDWIGSTRASSE
SS E
GÜ R
ZEN
I CH STR A SSE
HOHE ST R ASSE
KREB
STER
FLEISCHM EN G ER
NKLO
E
Galeria Kaufof
t
IE CÄCIL
THIE BO LDG ASS
Ka rst ad t Sp or
● ES PR IT
PIP IN ST RA
SELECTED STORES IN PEEK & CLOPPENBURG:
LEDERWAREN VOEGELS ●
OT S ● BU FFAL O BO BO NI TA ● ER ● NE W YO RK M ● H& S OL IV ER ●
● SPO RT- SCH ECK GH OFF ● JUW ELI ER BER BER SHK A ● ● JUW ELI ER DEI TER GIN A TRI COT ●
WO RM LAN D ●
KOLUMBASTRASSE
T U NIS
E
C& A ●
ST R A SS
Peek & Cloppenburg
HIRMER ●
C ÄC ILI EN
S CH ILD ER G AS SE
● DO UG LA S ● GU ES S FIG ER ● TO MM Y HIL HU HE ● RO LA ND -SC ● ZU MN OR DE ST ● JEA NS -PA LA ● ZE RO S T R A S S E
● VODAFONE
P.36
● SWAROVSKI ● MARC O’POLO ● ORSAY ● DEICHMANN ● BONITA ● KRAEMER ● MASSIMO DUTTI ● ANSON’S ● JUWELIER RÜSCHENBEC K
● GERRY WEBER
ARKT
● DESIGUAL ● HALLHUBER ● CHRIST
N EU M
SCHILDERGASSE
T U N ISSTR A SSE
.
NEUM AR KT
SCHUHHAUS KÄMPGEN ● FOOT LOCKER ● TALLY WEIJL ● PLANET ● KULT ● FIELMANN ● ADIDAS ● PROMOD ● APOLLO OPTIK ● RAPHAEL SCHUHMODE ● BIBA ● HUMANIC ● VERO MODA / JACK & JONES ● H&M ● SIDESTEP FOOTWEAR ● WMF ● CAMP DAVID ●
SCHUHHAUSK ÄMPGEN ● ZARA ●
Z EPP ELIN STR
RICHMO DSTR.
Appelrathcüpper
● BOGNER
CKE NST RAS SE
GROSSE SANDKAUL
SGA S
SE
P.34 BRÜ
HOHE STRASSE
E
HOHE STRASSE
B R EITE STR ASS
BREIT E ST RA SSE
SELECTED STORES IN GALERIA KAUfhOf: SATURN
25 SUNCLASS MANGO STERNENGASSE
TZ-STRASSE LEONHARD-TIE
PHOTO: CLAUDIUS THERME SPA
Claudius Therme
globalblue.com
a visit to Claudius Therme, Cologne’s thermal baths and spa, is a novel way to banish winter chills. Claudius Therme is located in the rheinpark, overlooking Cologne’s spectacular cathedral. admire the panoramic views from the spa’s sauna, revitalise yourself with a herbal steam bath, or simply soak up the health benefts of thermal, mineral spring water. The spa also ofers an excellent range of beauty and wellness treatments. Claudius Therme, sachsenbergstrasse 1, 50679 Cologne, +49 (0)221 981440, claudius-therme.de
66 | G U I D E
Designer Outlet Roermond How to get tHere By car
Designer Outlet Roermond, Stadsweide 2, 6041 tD roermond, +31 (0)475 351777, designer-outlet-roermond.com, mcarthurglen.com Opening times Monday-Friday: 10am-8pm, Saturday-Sunday: 9am-8pm
PerFeCt DAy
7pm Alongside its Swiss Army knife, Victorinox ofers a range of cutlery, clothing and fragrances.
10am the clothing collections at Daniel Hechter are ideal for those with an active lifestyle. Pieces are easy to mix and match, and epitomise sporty chic.
5pm Pick up a pair of classic American jeans at True Religion. the US import specialises in well-ftting, highquality denim.
12pm Stop for lunch at Asia Cocos where favourful thai, Chinese and Vietnamese cuisine is crafted using the freshest available ingredients.
globalblue.com
3pm Baldinini ofers high quality and meticulous attention to detail in its range of shoes, leather goods and accessories.
From Cologne, take either the A57 towards DĂźsseldorf or the A61 towards Venlo until these cross the A52. From there take the A52 towards roermond, cross the border and follow the signs. By train Designer outlet roermond is just a 15-minute walk from roermond station. when you leave the station, cross Stationsplein and follow the signs to Designer outlet roermond. For train times and ticket prices, please visit bahn.de. By shuttle bus the shuttle bus service departs every Saturday and Sunday from the main railway station in Cologne, at 9am on Saturday and 10am on Sunday. the return journey costs â‚Ź15.
S H O P | 67
Essential Information Use your smartphone’s Qr code reader to link to the helpful websites below when you’re on the go 1
2
1. Regional Tourist Ofce Cologne tourist Board, Kardinal-Höfner-Platz 1, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 346430, cologne-tourism.com 2. Federal Foreign Ofce Switchboard (24-hour service): +49 (0)30 18170 Help Desk (Mon-Fri: 9am3pm): +49 (0)30 1817 2000
3
4
EMERGENCY SERVICES Emergency: 112 (ambulance and fre); 110 (police) Doctor: +49 (0)116117 (emergency service, weekends and public holidays) Lost Or Stolen Cards: +49 (0)116116 (immediate blocking of lost/ stolen debit/credit cards) USEFUL PHRASES
3. Transportation Maps For public transport timetables and tickets go to kvb-koeln.de or scan the Qr code
Hello ∙ Hallo/guten tag Thank you ∙ Danke schön Please ∙ Bitte
5
6
I would like... ∙ Ich möchte... Goodbye ∙ Auf wiedersehen How much is...? ∙ wieviel kostet...? Can I have a receipt please? ∙ Darf ich bitte eine Quittung haben? INSIDER TIP For the latest information on attraction opening times and special events when you’re on the move, head to the ofcial tourism mobile website koelntourismus.mobi
PHOTO: German naTiOnal TOurisT BOard/TOrsTen KrüGer
4. Deutsche Bahn If you intend to travel by train go to the bahn.de website or scan the Qr code for more information 5. Taxi to fnd a local taxi, scan the Qr code or use the website taxi.de 6. Global Blue Online For the most up-to-date information on shops, museums, galleries and restaurants in germany, go to globalblue.com or scan the Qr code
DID YOU KNOW ...? Cologne Cathedral took 632 years to build; work began in 1248 and wasn’t completed until 1880
68 | G U I D E
Explore, See, Do
Cologne Tourist Board is the ofcial tourism marketing organisation for the city of Cologne and is the frst port of call for people from all over the world, whether business or leisure visitors. Cologne Tourist Board, Kardinal-Höfner-Platz 1, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 346430, cologne-tourism.com
Explore
Do
Rheinauhafen, the historic dockland area of Cologne, has an attractive promenade with an international feel, adding a modern edge to the oldest metropolis in Germany. The dockland quarter is fast becoming a hub of creativity and at its centre is the spectacular Kranhäuser.
In Cologne’s Belgian Quarter, a growing number of young designers is setting up in small, individually designed boutiques, where they are free to sell more unusual fashion and accessories. Stop at one of the city’s cosy cafés, bars or restaurants after visiting the shops.
See Aiming to be a place of refection, the strikingly modern Kolumba art museum exhibits sacred art alongside contemporary works. The building, by renowned architect Peter Zumthor, is an attraction in itself. Kolumba, Kolumbastrasse 4, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 933 1930, kolumba.de
globalblue.com
PHOTOS (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIgHT): © KOELn TOuRISMuS gMbH/AndREAS MöLTgEn FOTOgRAFIE; © KOELn TOuRISMuS gMbH/AndREAS MöLTgEn FOTOgRAFIE; HéLènE bInET/FARbAnALySE.dE; TObIAS KRuSE
If you only have a short time to spend in Cologne, the city’s tourist board has three top recommendations for you
S H O P | 69
Cologne Bonn Airport After every great holiday comes the fight home, but that doesn’t mean your shopping trip should be over when you reach the airport. At Cologne Bonn Airport, you’ll fnd the best names in German fashion and accessories. If you’re looking for gifts, souvenirs or a new pair of sunglasses from a label that you won’t fnd at home, the airport’s boutiques are sure to fll the gaps in your suitcase. Cologne Bonn Airport also has an enticing variety of food and drink options.
Marc O’Polo For of-duty days, look no further than Marc O’Polo. The brand is known and loved for its cool, casual range of men’s and women’s clothing. Founded in Stockholm, Marc O’Polo focuses on natural materials, combining classic preppy style with a nod to the season’s trends. Visit before your fight to stock up on the brand’s selection of stylish and snug winter layers.
Kamps Kamps bakeries are known and loved throughout Germany and the airport branch is the perfect place to pick up a delicious pre-fight snack. The wide array of flled bread rolls, pretzels and pastries available includes the company’s most popular lines, which include its signature Kamps Eck, a nutty wholegrain rye loaf sprinkled with seeds, the Fanblock, a pastry flled with dried fruit, rolled oats and seeds, and the sinfully good chocolate and cinnamon Wuppis. Speciality cofees and cold drinks are also available.
Hugo Boss Hugo Boss’s designs are wardrobe staples that epitomise modern European style. The brand has fve distinctive lines. Choose between the sharp tailoring of Boss Black, the luxurious fabrics of Boss Selection, the athletic appeal of Boss Green, Boss Orange’s urban attitude and the fashionforward Hugo line.
70
When you shop the world, shop tax free Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts. So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.
1. Shop Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.
2. Claim When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Ofces. Contact: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Spend a minimum of €25 and save up to 14.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.
76 / 79
78 / 79
71
Refund Ofces
Cologne Bonn Airport
Key
M. Kirschner, Terminal 1 (B/C), Departures (airside), M. Kirschner, Terminal 2 (D), Departures (airside)
Partner Refund Ofce Landside Check-In Area
In bookshop Kirschner Gates B
Terminal 1
Global Blue Refund Ofce
Departure
I Ki n bo rs o ch ks ne ho r p
Gates D
Security Control
Tax Free Mailbox
Terminal 2 Arrival
Departure
Airside Customs stamp
Arrival
D端sseldorf Airport
Service Center, Terminal A, Terminal Ring 1 (beside customs ofce/close to Lufhansa ticket counters)
Gates B
Gates A
Gates C
globalblue.com
Refund Ofce details: Cologne Bonn Airport M. Kirschner, Terminal 1 (B/C), Departures (airside) M. Kirschner, Terminal 2 (D), Departures (airside) Downtown Cologne Reisebank inside the main station D端sseldorf Airport Service Center, Terminal A, Terminal Ring 1 (beside customs ofce/close to Lufhansa ticket counters
72
Translations РуССкий ПеРеВод 40: Freshness In A Bottle
Свежесть В Бутылке
Немецкие парфюмеры имеют репутацию новаторов еще со времен появления одеколона. Современные ароматы являются достойным наследием этого классического парфюма, – рассказывает Гвинет Голланд Вклад немецких парфюмеров в мировую индустрию всегда характеризовался инновационным и творческим подходом. Долгое время одеколон удерживал позиции самого популярного парфюма в Германии. Созданный в 1709 году итальянским парфюмером Джованни Марией Фарина одеколон был фаворитом многих королевских дворов Европы. Свежий аромат напоминал Фарина «весеннее утро в Италии, горные нарциссы и цветы апельсина после дождя», – одним словом одеколон не шел в сравнение ни с одним из хмельных, слащавых и безыскусных ароматов тех времен. Нежный цитрусовый аромат с нотками горных трав был назван «eau de Cologne» в честь города Кельна, ставшего парфюмеру вторым домом. Здесь мастеру удалось создать абсолютно новый вид ароматов, который не утратил своей актуальности даже три столетия спустя. Следующим шагом в развитии парфюма globalblue.com
стало создание знаменитого аромата 4711, который и по сей день сохраняет невероятную популярность благодаря своему классическому флакону и легкому, пикантному букету. Одеколон, правами на который владеет парфюмерная компания Mäurer & Wirtz, все еще производится по оригинальной формуле, однако бренд 4711 активно развивается, покоряя все новые аудитории. Так, недавно была представлен новый освежающий аромат Wunderwasser для мужчин и женщин, а также итальянский вариант одеколона – Acqua Colonia. Новые парфюмерные дома Германии, возможно, не могут похвастаться столь же нашумевшим ароматом как 4711 или престижем, свойственным французским шедеврам, однако они продолжают нелегкое дело Фарина, стараясь собрать воедино мастерство, инновации и индивидуальность. «Германия это страна инноваций, где люди трудятся ради исполнения своей мечты и стремятся создать нечто новое. Мы не просто переосмысливаем и обновляем старые традиции, мы хотим установить новые стандарты», – говорит Тамаш Тагшерер, рассказывая о парфюмерном бренде JF Schwarzlose. Его компания базируется в Берлине и специализируется на создании роскошных ароматов, воплощающих неповторимый стиль этого города. В 2012 году марка JF Schwarzlose, созданная еще в далеком 1856, увидела второе рождение, когда ее возглавили дизайнер Лутц Герман, парфюмер Вероника Ниберг и маркетолог Тамаш Тагшерер. Последнее детище бренда – аромат Zeitgeist, выражающий авангардный дух Берлина, его изменчивость и чувствительность посредством янтаря, мускуса, эвкрифии в сочетании с синтетическими нотами – колон и эделонид. Образ немецкого парфюмерного бренда для многих людей сегодня все еще кажется чем-то новым и необычным – они находят его интересным и инновационным, говорит Тагшерер.
73
Благодаря таким проектам, как Hamburg Biehl Parfumkunstwerke репутация Германии, как страны, где создаются креативные и высокохудожественные парфюмы, резко возрастает. Широко известный парфюмер Торстен Биль трудится совместно с лучшими специалистами индустрии, создавая особые ароматы, доступные лишь в очень ограниченных партиях. Свободные от коммерческого давления парфюмеры, такие как Марк Бакстон, Артуретто Ланди, Патрисия Шу, Эгон Олкерс и Геза Шон способны создать самые невероятные ароматы для истинных ценителей. Собственный бренд Гезы Шона «Escentric Molecules» предлагает неожиданные ароматы для неискушенных пуристов. «Для большинства моих друзей духи всегда были слишком резкими, слишком сладкими, слишком фруктовыми… Я подумала, что было бы неплохо создать такие духи, которые больше будут похожи на ауру, нежели на типичный парфюм. Для этого они должны быть прямолинейны и даже немного однообразны, но вместе с тем необычайно привлекательны», – говорит Шон. Такие «однообразные» парфюмы из его коллекции Molecules основаны на одном единственном ингредиенте, например, амброксане, вертиверил ацитате или Iso E Super, в то время как букет коллекции Escentric более сложный и сочетает в себе как классические, так и ультрасовременные ноты. В берлинской лаборатории Frau Tonis парфюмеры используют более индивидуальный, но не менее умелый подход. Бренд возрождает знаменитые парфюмы прошлого за счет ароматов современности, например – Aventure, с его нотками кедра, янтаря и розового перца; Linde Berlin, напоминающий знаменитый берлинский аромат липовых деревьев; Violet, основанный на парфюме, созданном специально для Марлен Дитрих в 1920х. Чтобы аромат получился абсолютно уникальным, посетителям берлинского бутика Frau Tonis, который расположен возле бывшего контрольно-пропускного
пункта «Чекпойнт Чарли», предоставляется возможность самостоятельно смешать выбранные ингредиенты. Марка Frau Tonis, бутики которой сегодня можно найти в Нью-Йорке, Милане, Барселоне и Мадриде, являет собой пример непрекращающегося влияния Германии на мировую индустрию в целом. Бренд был основан Штефани Гансеном, который полагает, что немецкие парфюмы не уступают своим соперникам ни по качеству, ни по уровню инноваций. «Времена, когда общество ценило лишь французские и итальянские парфюмы, уже давно минули». m-w.de, schwarzloseberlin.com, biehl-parfum.com, escentric.com, frau-tonis-parfum.com 46: Form And Function
Мода или Практичность?
Немецкие дизайнеры в очередной раз доказывают, что одно другому нисколько не мешает. Клэр Коулсон изучила зимние коллекции лучших немецких брендов Несмотря на то, что мода – понятие глобальное, определенные страны упорно продолжают сохранять лидерство в тех или иных областях. Так, американцы делают превосходную спортивную одежду, итальянцев сложно превзойти по части изделий из кожи, а французы остаются лидерами шикарных и невероятно женственных нарядов. Что же касается Германии, то пресловутая немецкая точность в равной степени применима как к современным технологиям и автомобилям, так и к модным брендам этой страны.
74
Практичный дизайн и неповторимое качество в сочетании с природным прагматизмом стали основой формирования модной индустрии немцев. В последнее время, когда мода переживает кардинальные изменения, роскошные бренды по всему миру начинают осознавать одну простую истину: все что нужно женщинам – так это настоящая одежда, состоящая из элегантных классических элементов, которые хорошо смотрятся и легко носятся. Взять, к примеру, дебютную коллекцию Джейсона Ву для Hugo Boss. Кому-то такой союз может показаться весьма странным, учитывая, что дизайнер специализируется в основном на легких и роскошных вечерних платьях, в то время как Hugo Boss – на строгих мужских костюмах. И, тем не менее, это сотрудничество позволило подчеркнуть сильные стороны немецкой марки. В преддверии своей дебютной осеннезимней коллекции Ву решил сослаться на перфекционизм бренда, в шутку назвав ультрасовременную штаб-квартиру Hugo Boss в Метцингене «кампусом». И все же ощущение немецкой точности, безусловно, присутствовало в коллекции Ву: стильные двусторонние кашемировые пальто с аккуратным военным ремнем черного цвета; аккуратные костюмы с безукоризненными мальчишескими пиджаками и брюками; а также плюшевые трикотажные накидки, которые можно носить в сложенном виде на плечах, а затем накинуть на спину – все это смотрится элегантно и в высшей степени практично. Ву не единственный дизайнер, пытающийся переосмыслить и объединить прагматизм и высокую моду. Последняя коллекция Escada «Escada Sport» буквально изобилует практичными моделями. Меховые куртки слегка приталены и подвязаны поясом; парки и жилетки с меховыми капюшонами почти невесомы и весьма удобны в зимнюю пору; глянцевые пальто и куртки сделаны с использованием легкого и современного утеплителя. Все это сочетается с мальчишеской обувью на плоской подошве, которая, несмотря на свою практичность, выглядит довольно шикарно. globalblue.com
В Strenesse похожая история: легкие спортивные парки и куртки, украшенные мехом, сочетаются с повседневными платьями и леггинсами. Прилегающие жакеты утеплены мехом и трикотажными деталями на рукавах. Как и в случае с Hugo Boss особое место здесь отведено современным костюмам, практичным и в то же время стильным, с брюками свободного покроя серого цвета с голубоватым или розоватым отливом. Аксессуары также приобрели долю практичности. Strenesse завершает свои привлекательные образы удобными клатчами на длинном ремешке. Мюнхенская марка MCM во главе с креативным директором Михаелем Михальски предлагает роскошные сумки тоут, отвечающие всем потребностям современной женщины. В сумках предусмотрены специальные отделения для электронных гаджетов, таких как ноутбук и iPad, а рюкзаки изобилуют кармашками разных размеров для всевозможных мелочей. Но особенно выраженно немецкая точность и техническое ноу-хау проявились в области спортивной одежды. Когда дело доходит до умения сочетать моду и одежду для экстремальных видов спорта, то здесь неизменными лидерами остаются такие немецкие марки, как Adidas, Bogner, Porsche Design и Schofel. Бренд Adidas смог показать все свои последние разработки во время экипировки британских спортсменов, участвующих в зимних олимпийских играх в Сочи в 2014 году. Adidas представил свои «теплые штаны», сделанные из самонагревающихся материалов и обеспечивающие оптимальную температуру тела спортсмена во время тренировки, а также костюмы Powerweb из термопластичного полиуретана, который хранит и возвращает эластическую тягу для снижения мышечной усталости. Возможно, это звучит немного из области фантастики, однако не стоит удивляться, если в скором времени подобная технология появится в вашем шкафу. И с большой долей вероятности можно предположить, что это
75
будет вещь одного из немецких брендов. hugoboss.com, escada.com, strenesse.com, mcmworldwide.com, adidas.com, bogner.com, porsche-design.com, schofel.com 52: In Focus: Porsche Design
В фокусе: Porsche Design
Руарид Притчард рассказывает о немецком бренде Porsche Design, на счету которого множество дизайнерских предметов – от роскошных чемоданов до стильных смартфонов Считается, что мода и функциональность находятся на противоположных полюсах и взаимно исключают друг друга. Однако, когда речь идет о практичном и одновременно красивом дизайне, немецкие бренды неизменно оказываются в лидерах. Выбирать немецкое – это стало правилом для многих поклонников хороших автомобилей, поскольку именно Porsche всегда воплощал идеал спортивной модели в глазах миллионов людей по всему миру. В 1972 году создатель знаменитого автомобиля Фердинанд Александер Порше представил под брендом Porsche коллекцию одежды и аксессуаров – и тем самым заразил идеей выбирать немецкое и знатоков моды. С 2003 года серия выходит под маркой Porsche Design, и теперь ее дополнили чемоданы, часы, домашняя утварь и оправы для очков. Компания также занимается разработкой дизайна электронных устройств. Особое место среди них занимают технологичные смартфоны BlackBerry из нержавеющей стали: например, новая модель P’9982 доступна в корпусе из итальянской кожи, кожи аллигатора и других роскошных материалов. В 2010 году бренд Porsche Design открыл собственную серию кожаной одежды и аксессуаров высочайшего качества. Ее вершиной стал жакет из мягкой кожи ягненка, эксклюзивность которого подтверждается тиражом: выпущено всего 200 экземпляров на весь мир. Кроме того, особого внимания в этой коллекции достойны куртка-пуховик из
лайковой замши и кожаный жакет Tec Flex с карманами на молнии и петлями для наушников. Доктор Юрген Гесслер, исполнительный директор Porsche Design, точно определяет уникальность этой коллекции: «Она создает безусловную связь между функциональностью и эстетикой и органично вплетается в нашу концепцию. Базовая идея остается неизменной: мы не следуем за модными веяниями, а расставляем собственные акценты. И наше понимание повседневной роскоши придает коллекциям одежды уникальность». Пожалуй, наиболее эффектно стиль и функция слились в фирменной модели TwinBag. Наибольший интерес представляет ее основная конструктивная особенность – регулируемые по длине ручки: закрепленные особым образом, они позволяют носить сумку и в руках, и через плечо. Лучшие мастер Флоренции вкладывают все свои умения в тщательную ручную обработку цельных кусков эксклюзивных видов кожи. Для подкладки используется мягчайшее волокно алькантара, а металлическая гарнитура из хрома, серебра, белого и розового золота обрабатывается с помощью гальванических воздействий. В результате, TwinBag гармонично объединяет итальянское мастерство и немецкий дизайн. Сумка оказалась востребованной, и следующим этапом стало сотрудничество Porsche Design с берлинским художником Тьерри Нуаром: он вручную расписал TwinBag своими знаменитыми стилизованными сердцами. Обновленная версия легендарной модели была презентована на ярмарке Art Basel Miami Beach в 2013 году, а затем поступила в ассортимент избранных салонов Porsche Design в разных городах. «Современный ритм жизни изменил наше отношение к миру, и единственной адекватной реакцией на это может быть сочетание минималистского дизайна и функциональности, - размышляет креативный директор Porsche Design Томас Штайнбрюк. – Таким образом, созданный нами образ оказался созвучен
76
этому новому стилю жизни: понятный, но не искусственный, повседневный и одновременно официальный. В частности, мы применяем новейшие техники обработки материалов, поэтому наши модели кажутся и хорошо знакомыми, и в то же время авангардными». Вот уже четыре десятилетия Porsche Design по-прежнему следует дизайнерскому принципу своего основателя: «Чтобы создать форму объекта, необходима внимательно рассмотреть его функцию». И эта компания своим опытом последовательно подтверждает: форма должна быть не только функциональной, но и красивой. porsche-design.com
аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму. 美文翻译
40: Freshness In A Bottle 瓶中精灵
70 : When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free
Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270,000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохораните чеки. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €25 и сэкономьте до 14.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых globalblue.com
自香水诞 生之日起，德国调香师就享 有勇于创新 的美誉。今日的摩登香氛 则继 承了先辈的经典风 格，Gwyneth Holland报道 几个世纪以来，德国调香师对于香水界的贡献主要 表现在创新性与艺术性等方面。由Giovanni Maria Farina于1709 年调配出的eau de Cologne，素来 是德国最有名的香水，并在当时被欧洲宫廷广泛使 用。Farina 表示这股清新的香调让他想起“一个意 大利春天的早晨，雨后的山谷百合与橙花。”——与 当时风头正劲的浓郁、香甜、单调的香氛不尽相同。 他的这款柑橘与草本香味的香水被命名为 eau de Cologne，以纪念调香师的第二故乡，而他也由此开 创了一类全新的香水风格。Farina的作品在三个世 纪以后仍在生产中。 Fa r i n a 的杰 作还影响了世界上最知名的古 龙 水—— 4711的诞生，经典的包装加上清爽辛香的味 道，使这款古龙水时至今日仍在世界各地广受欢迎。 这款如今所属于Mäurer&Wirtz香水公司的产品， 仍由原配方调制而成，而4711品牌则正在不断壮大 并吸引新的顾客群体。从男女皆可使用、简洁明快的 新 Wunderwasser香水，到对于古龙水的意大利式 演绎——Acqua Colonia系列。 德国的新香水品牌或许还不具有标志性的4711 ，或是法国香水品牌那样的国际影响力，但他们仍 继承着 Fa r i na 的衣钵，将艺术性、创新与个性加 入自己的作品中。 “德国是一个倡导创新的国度， 这里的人们追 组梦想，想要不断创造 新的东西。 我们不仅重新审视与更新旧的方法，还想要建立
77
新的标准， ”来自小众香水品牌 J F Schwa r z lose 的 Ta m asTa g scherer 表示，这个柏林的香水品 牌致力于制造体现这座城市风貌的奢华香氛。成 立于1856 年的 J F Schwarzlose，在设计师 Lut z Herrmann、调香师 Véronique Nyberg与营销人 TamasTagscherer的带领下于2012年重新出发。品 牌旗下的最新香水 Zeitgeist，使用琥珀、麝香和丁 香以及calone、edelonide等化合物调和，将柏林的 前卫、多变与感性封入瓶中。 “今日德国香水品牌的形 象对多数人而言还是较为新奇与不同寻常的——他 们令人兴奋且创意十足， ”Tagscherer表示。 汉堡的 BiehlParfumkunst werke 等项目，通 过将香水提升至一种艺术形式，进一步巩固了德 国香水匠心独具、不同寻常的声 誉。知名调 香师 Thorsten Biehl与几位香水业内最受尊敬的闻香师 合作，创造出一系列限量版本的单一香调。远离商业 压力的Mark Buxton、ArturettoLandi、Patricia Choux、Egon Oelkers与Geza Schoen等“香气艺 术家” ，得以为真正的香氛鉴赏家们创造出独一无二 的香气。 G e z a S c h o e n 自己的香水品牌，E s c e nt r i c Molecu les为香水爱好者们带来了意想不到的味 道。 “对我的多数朋友而言，香水的味道总是太过 了，过甜、过重、果味过于浓郁...我觉得可能将香 气当做一顶光环来佩 戴会更好，所以不同于传统 的香水，它必须是单调的，几乎是一维，但仍旧非 常性感的， ”Scho en 表示。他的 Mole c u le s 系列 下的“一维”香水都是以单一成分制成，例如龙涎 呋喃、vertiveryle acetate 或是龙涎酮，而旗下的 Escentric系列则更为复杂，通过“在更大的香味 结构中把玩分子”来将古典与超现代风格的香调融 合。 在柏林的Frau Tonis，调香师使用更为私人化、 但不失启发性的手法。品牌以新香水勾起人们对过 去那些清冽且特征突出的香水的记忆，例如芳香扑 鼻的Aventure，以雪松木、琥珀、粉红胡椒等为主 香调，而让人联想起柏林著名的香椴树与紫罗兰的 Linde Berlin，则以1920年代为影星马琳黛德丽创 作的一款香水为基础。如果想创造一种真正独特的 招牌香味，不妨前往Checkpoint Charlie 附近的 Frau Tonis门店自己调配，在纽约、米兰、巴塞罗那 和马德里的店铺中均有销售的Frau Tonis，是德国 香水仍对世界具有持续影响力的力证。品牌创始人 Stefanie Hanssen始终坚信，德国香水高品质与多 创新的声誉依然强盛。 “香水必须来自法国或意大利 才会受到认可的时代已经结束了。”
m-w.de, schwarzloseberlin.com, biehl-parfum.com, escentric.com, frau-tonis-parfum.com
46: Form And Function: 秀外慧中 德国制造拥有精密准确的国际声誉——这也适用于 该国的时尚品牌。一批德国顶尖品牌带来的冬季系 列都印证了这点，Clare Coulson报道 时尚正变得比任何时候都全球化，然而民族特色仍 未磨灭。美国人擅长制造奢华运动装，而在皮革制 作上无人能与意大利人比肩，巴黎仍旧是极致时髦 与女性化风格之圣地。此外，德国制造的精密性则 体现在从前沿科技到超级跑车等各行业，其同时适 用于该国的时尚品牌。 实用、纯净的设计与制造，永远兼顾功能性：德国 品牌在这个最佳时机，开始高举自己与生俱来的实 用主义旗帜。时尚界正经历一场剧烈的变革，各地 的奢侈品牌都意识到女人衣橱中真正需要的，是实 穿的服饰；是好看又易穿的不过时的经典款。 以Jason Wu在Hugo Boss品牌发表的首个系列 为例。Wu个人最出名的单品是轻浮放浪、极度奢华 的鸡尾酒会装，这或许与以锋芒锐利的男性化剪裁 出名的Hugo Boss并不匹配。然而二者的联姻却更 彰显了德国品牌的优势。在推出秋/冬系列之前，Wu 深入研究过品牌的完美主义传统，并开玩笑地将 Hugo Boss位于麦琴根的总部成为“校园”。然而那 份德国式的精密在Wu的设计中昭然若揭：时髦的双 面羊绒大衣，腰部装饰着简洁的黑色军用皮带；利落 的西装则搭配以简约的男孩风夹克与剪裁中性的西 装裤；而 Wu 的模特们肩上搭着的毛绒针织披肩可 以围至背后，看起来温暖又实用。 Wu并不是唯一考虑将实用主义融入高级时装的 设计师。Escada 旗下的最新副线 Escada Sport， 同样推出了不少实用的作品。毛皮夹克以贴身剪裁 并配以可收紧腰带；皮草领大衣或风衣为冬季带来 轻盈又温暖的包裹；闪光外套与夹克则采用轻质绗 缝线与填充物。以上系列都可搭配平底的男孩风鞋 履，即实穿又时髦。 Strenesse品牌也采取了类似的作法，运动感十足 的皮草装饰轻便风衣及夹克，可搭配时髦连衣裙与 打底裤，为冬日带来暖意。温暖的外套通体装饰着 绝缘皮草并辅以针织袖管，并且与Hugo Boss如出 一辙，时髦摩登的裤装，西装裤是系列中的明星，以 超高实用性以及时尚剪裁而脱颖而出，此外还有极 浅的鸽子灰、木炭色或温和的玫瑰米色宽松裤装可 供选择。 时装配件也变得实用起来。Stgrenesse 以耐磨 的斜跨信封手袋，来搭配其简约的服装造型。在慕 尼黑的MCM，创意总监 Michael Michalsky在设 计奢华手提包的初期，就以适合女性职业生涯为考 量；包中设有可收纳笔记本电脑、iPad等数码产品
78
的隔断，而背包的设计中则加入了可以收纳财物的 独立口袋。 德国式的精准与技术，或许在运动服上结合并 体现地最为淋漓尽致。该国众多的世界顶尖的专业 运动品牌，从 Adidas与Bogner到Porsche Design 与Schoffel，都是将时尚与高性能运动服结合的领 导者。Adidas借助2014年索契冬奥会上的英国队， 展现了自己的技术实力。品牌提供的“发热裤” ，使用 一种可自身发热的材料，以确保运动员们能在最适 合的温度下进行热身，而使用热塑性聚氨酯制造的 Powerweb西服，则能够吸收并反馈弹力，从而减少 肌肉疲劳。这或许听起来很科幻，但当同样技术制成 的服饰在不久的将来出现在你的衣橱中时，你几乎 可以确信这必然是德国品牌首率先推出的。
hugoboss.com, escada.com, strenesse.com, mcmworldwide.com, adidas.com, bogner.com, porsche-design.com, schofel.com 52: In Focus: Porsche Design 聚焦：保时捷设计 从 豪 华 的 行 李 箱 到出色 的 智 能 手 机，保 时 捷 设 计缔造了诸多让 人垂涎 三尺的单品。我们的编辑 Ruairidh Pritchard拜访了这个德国品牌 时尚和功用性有时候相互排斥：在很多情况下，它们 可以成为对立的两极。然而在谈到既实用又美观的 设计时，德国人就是专家。几十年来，购买德国制造 一直是许多汽车爱好者优先考虑的选择，而保时捷 更是成为了全世界机车狂热者眼中跑车的典范。 最近，保时捷的服装和配饰产品线又让时尚消 费者们开始考虑购买德国制造。该系列是由这个著 名的跑车品牌创始人费迪南德·亚历山大·保时捷 （Ferdinand Alexander Porsche）在1972年推出 的，并在2003年以“保时捷设计”的名义重新发布。 现在，这个系列的产品包括行李箱、腕表、家居用品 和眼镜。电子产品也被囊括在内，比如各种高端不 锈钢的黑莓智能手机：最新推出的P’9982系列有 多款机身饰面可供选择，其中包括意大利皮革和鳄 鱼皮的手机背面。 2010年，保时捷设计推出了其由高品质制造工艺 打造的精选设计皮革产品。该系列的主打产品之一 是一件由纳帕小羊皮制作的皮夹克，这款尊贵独享 的夹克全世界仅限量 200 件。其他的单品包括了一 款由超软小山羊皮绒面制造的羽绒外套和Tec Flex 皮夹克，后者更是将有盖拉链口袋和耳机线圈结合 在一起。 在谈到为什么设计皮革系列可以脱颖而出的原因 globalblue.com
时，保时捷设计的CEO 于尔根·盖斯勒（ Juergen Gessler）博士说： “它在功用性和美学之间创造了 紧密的联系，可以和我们的产品组合无缝连接。我们 的理念保持不变：我们不追随潮流，我们只创造属于 自己的品味。其结果是，随意潇洒的风格让我们的 服装系列独一无二。” 最能够展示出该品牌将功用性与时尚无缝对接 的例子可能是其招牌手袋— —Twin Bag。采用最 高档的皮革为原料，经过佛罗伦萨工匠们的精雕 细琢，TwinBag 最显著的特点是其创新的携带概 念——可调节式手柄可以让这款包既可以作为传统 的手袋使用，又可以被当作肩包。 每一款包都是由一整块单独的皮革制成的，然后 由娴熟的工匠手工缝制。内衬由最柔软的Alcantara 材料制成，金属配件则包括铬、银、白金及玫瑰金， 并采用先进的电镀工艺抛光。这堪称意大利工艺和 德国设计的完美结合。 Tw i n Bag 的成功促成了保时捷与柏林画家蒂 埃里·比诺（Thierry Noir）的合作。比诺将自己 招牌的手绘“心形脸”融入到TwinBag 里，创作出 TwinBag特别版，并在2013年的巴塞尔迈阿密艺术 博览会展出。随后这款特别版的包在全世界选定的 保时捷设计专卖店出售。 “现代生活的速度改变了我们对世界的看法，唯 一合乎逻辑的结论是要将简约的设计与功用性相结 合。”保时捷设计的创意总监托马斯·施泰因布吕克 （Thomas Steinbrueck）说， “因此，我们创立了一 种风格，可以与新的生活环境和谐共存。它有结构但 又不能被定形，可以同时兼具休闲与正式。特别是， 我们运用了最新的材料研发技术，用于生产既让人 熟悉、又具有前瞻性的剪裁。” 在保时捷设计创立后的四十年，很显然它仍然遵 循了其创立者所设定的设计原则，是他主张“如果 分析一个物体的功能，其形式会变得显而易见”。就 保时捷设计来说，其形式不仅仅具有功用性，可能还 很明显，也十分美观。 porsche-design.com
70: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球，尊享退税 当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时， 环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free Shopping）为您节约购物开销。 每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global B lue ）获得购物退税，您怎能错 过？您要 做的只 是 寻 找 蓝 星标 志 或 者问询 商家是 否 提 供环 球 蓝 联 （Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税
79
البيض والزهري الشغول باستخدام تقنيّات الطلء الكهربائ التط ّورة .إنّه الدمج الثال للحرفيّة اليطاليّة والتصميم اللان. الرسام بعد نجاح حقيبة TwinBagت ّم التعاون مع ّ Thierry Noirالقيم ف برلي .زخرف الحقائب برسوماته خاصة ُعرضت “الوجوه القتبسة من قلوب” مبتكرا ً مجموعة ّ ف 2013Art Basel Miami Beachومن ث ّم طُرحت للبيع ف بعض محلت Porsche Designالختارة حول العال. يقول ،Thomas Steinbrueckمدير التصميم لدى “تغيت نظرتنا للعال بفعل سعة :Porsche Design ّ الحياة العصيّة حيث بات الستنتاج النطقي الوحيد هو دمج التصميم البسيط بالعمليّة .لذا ،ابتكرنا أسلوباً يتمش مع هذه البيئة الجديدة؛ أسلوباً منظّمًلكن غي مركّب ،عمليّاً ورسميّاً ف آنٍ واحد .تجدر الشارة إل أنّنا استخدمنا أحدث تقنيّات تطوير قصات مألوفة ومبتكرة”. الواد لبتداع ّ بعد مرور أربع سنوات عل تأسيس ،Porsche Design من الواضح أنّها ما زالت تتبع مبادئ التصميم التي وضعها مؤسسها الذي قال م ّرة إنّه “لو حلّلت وظيفة قطعة معيّنة، ّ يتّضح لك شكلها” .وف حالة ،Porsche Designليس الشكل وربا واضحاً ،بل أيضاً جميلً. عمليّاً فحسبّ ، porsche - design.com When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free: 70
عندما تتس ّوق حول العال ،تس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة
تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو Global Blueخدمة التس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة Tax Freeلتدّخر الال لدى تس ّوقك ف أكث من 270, 000متجر ف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العال. فل َم ل تنض ّم إل الـ 26مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون كل سنة؟ ما دفع الضيبة من خلل غلوبل بلو ّ Global Blue عليك إل أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو Global Blueوتتبع خطواتنا السهلة. .1تس ّوق الخاص أينم تس ّوقت ،أطلب الحصول عل طلب استداد الضيبة ّ بغلوبل بلو Global Blueوتذكّر أن تحتفظ باليصالت. .2أطلب ف طريق العودة إل وطنك ،أقصد مكتب الجمرك عند نقطة الغادرة لتتم الصادقة عل إيصالتك قبل قبض الستداد من أحد الخاصة بنا. مكاتب الستداد ّ للتّصال: taxfree@ globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 أنفق ح ّدا ً أدن قدره €25وادّخر حتّى 14.5%من ثن مشتياتك .يشمل مبلغ الستداد النهائ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الضيبة عل القيمة الضافة ناقص رسم إداري .ف بعض الطارات ،يُفرض رسم خدمة نقدي عل كل طلب استداد ضيبة ف حال رغبت بالحصول عل استداد فوري نقدي.
过程： 1. 消费购物 无 论 您 在 哪里消 费，请 索要 环 球 蓝 联 退 税 表 格 。（ Global Blue Tax Free Form），并记得保存小票 2. 申请退税 当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台请 他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联的 。退税点领取您的退税款 联系方式： taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费€25并且节约高达购买价格14.5%的税。请 注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除管 理手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取 。现金退税手续费
日本語翻訳 70: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 海外でのお買い物が免税に グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご利 用いただきますと、世界各地の有名ショッピング街に ある27万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物がお得に 。なります 年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブルー 。の免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用ください 手続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探し ・ます。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グローバル ブルー？」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のステップを 。踏むだけです
1.お買い物 お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの免 税書類（タックスフリー・フォーム）を受け取ってくだ 。さい。レシートを保管するのも忘れずに 2.還付請求 ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関でレシートに承認 印を押してもらってから、グローバル・ブルーの還付 。事務所で払い戻しを受けます €25以上のお買い物をすれば、購入価格の最高14.5 ％の払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払い戻し額 は、付加価値税（VAT）合計から事務手数料を差 し引いた金額となりますので、その旨ご了承くださ い。 一部の空港で現金での即時払い戻しをご希望 の場合は、取り扱い手数料が免税書類ごとに課され 。ます
80
الفاخرة ف شتّى بقاع الدنيا حاجة الرأة إل ملبس حقيقيّة؛ تتمتّع بشكلٍ جميل ويسهل ارتداؤها. خذ عل سبيل الثال مجموعة Jason Wuالول لـ .Hugo Bossنظرا ً لشهرة Wuباللبس العمليّة النيقة ربا ل يكن الخيار التوقّع العابثة بامتياز والفاخرة إل ح ّد كبيّ ، لعلمة تجاريّة معروفة بتصاميمها الذكوريّة الفائقة الدقّة .لكن سلّط هذا التعاون الضوء عل مكامن ق ّوة العلمة اللانيّة .قبل إطلق مجموعة الخريف/الشتاء ،ل ّح Wuإل الثاليّة الدروسة التي تتّبعها العلمة وأت ممزحا ً عل ذكر مق ّر Hugo Boss العصي ف Metzingenمس ّمياً إيّاه “الحرم” .بالرغم من ذلك ،تبز الدقّة اللانيّة بوضوح ف ملبس :Wuمعاطف مزدوجة الوجه من الكشمي ،مز ّودة بحزام عسكري أسود؛ بدلت أنيقة ذات ستات شبابيّة منفّذة بإتقان وساويل عمليّة؛ بالضافة إل أوشحة محبوكة من الخمل الطويل تزيّن أكتاف العارضات وتبدو دافئة لكن عمليّة بامتياز. ليس Wuالص ّمم الوحيد الذي يفكّر بطريقة لدمج العمليّة بالزياء الراقية .تشمل مجموعة Escada Sport الخية من Escadaالكثي من القطع العمليّة؛ منها ستات من الفرو ملصقة للجسم مز ّودة بأحزمة؛ وستات مبطّنة أو من دون أكمم مز ّودة بقبّعات من الفرو ،تنح الدفء وخفيفة الوزن؛ معاطف وستات ل ّاعة معزولة بحشوات وبطانات خفيفة الوزن. وقد ت ّم تنسيق كل هذه القطع مع أحذية عمليّة من دون كعب مص ّممة لتكون مريحة وفائقة الناقة. الوضع ممثل لدى Strenesseحيث الستات العمليّة الخفيفة الوزن ذات حواش من الفرو ،تنح الدفء وتُلبس مع فساتي عمليّة مرتّبة وساويل ضيّقة .ث ّة أيضاً ستات ضيّقة يكسوها الفرو من الداخل وعل الكمم .وعل غرار Hugo ،Bossتبقى البدلة العصيّة الصقولة هي التصميم البرز التميّز بالعمليّة لكن الص ّمم ليبدو شديد الناقة ،خصوصاً مع ساويل فضفاضة بأبهت ألوان الرمادي أو الفحمي أو البيج الزهري الناعم. تجدر الشارة إل تطبيق مبدأ العمليّة عل الكسسوارات أيضاً .تكلّل Strenesseتصاميمها التقنة بحقائب صغية مزودة بسلسل لتُحمل بشكلٍ قطري .أ ّما لدى علمة MCM الواقعة ف ميونخ ،فأعطى الص ّمم Michael Michalsky حياة الرأة العمليّة الولويّة لدى تصميمه حقائب فاخرة؛ ث ّة مخصصة للغراض التكنولوجيّة مثل جهاز الكمبيوتر أقسام ّ الحمول والـ ،iPadف حي ز ّودت حقائب الظهر بجيب فرديّة لحتواء الغراض الشخصيّة. قد يكون الدمج المثل للدقّة اللانيّة والدراية التكنولوجيّة ف اللبس الرياضيّة .تأت العلمات التجاريّة اللانيّة العاليّة الختصة باللبس الرياضيّة مثل AdidasوBogner الشهرة ّ و Porsche Designو Schoffelف الصدارة لدى مزج الوضة باللبس الرياضيّة العمليّة .تكّنت Adidasمن عرض كافّة إنجازاتها الجديدة عندما ألبست الفريق البيطان ف اللعاب الولومبيّة الشتويّة 2014ف مدينة سوتش .ابتكرت العلمة “ساويل حرارة” وملبس ذاتيّة التدفئة لتزويد الرياضيّي بالحرارة الثاليّة ف خلل حصص التدريب ،بالضافة إل بدلت Powerwebمصنوعة من مادّة Thermoplastic Polyurethaneال تحفظ طاقة الرونة وتعيدها لتقليص
الرهاق العضل .قد يبدو ذلك غي واقعي ،لكن ل تتفاجأ إن بدأت هذه التكنولوجيا تتسلّل إل خزانتك ف الستقبل القريب .وعل الرجح أنّها ستكون من علمات تجاريّة ألانيّة. ، hugoboss.com ،escada.com ،strenesse.com ،mcmworldwide.com ،adidas.com bogner.com ،porsche - design.com،schoffel.com In Focus: Porsche Design : 52 تحت الجهرPorsche Design :
من المتعة الفاخرة إل الهواتف الذكيّة الميّزة ،تص ّمم Porsche Designمجموعة واسعة من القطع الرغوبة. يزور Hamish Monkالعلمة التجاريّة اللانيّة غالباً ما تغيب الوضة بوجود العمليّة والعكس صحيح :وف كثي من الحيان ،قد يناقضا بعضهم البعض .لكن عندما نتحدّث عن تصميم عمل وجميل ف الن عينه ،يسطع نجم اللان .لطالا فضّ ل محبّو السيّارات شاء العلمات اللانيّة وشكّلت Porsche السيّارة الرياضيّة الول بالنسبة إل هواة الح ّركات حول العال. مؤخّرا ً ،تكّن خط Porscheالخاص باللبس والكسسوارات من حمل متتبّعي الوضة عل شاء تصاميم ألانيّة .أُطلقت الجموعة سنة 1972من ِقبل Ferdinand مؤسس السيّارة الشهية .أُعيد ّ ،Alexander Porsche إطلق العلمة سنة 2003باسم Porsche Designلتشمل أمتعة وساعات ومستلزمات منزليّة ونظّارات .كم تض ّم أجهزة إلكتونيّة مثل تشكيلة من هواتف BlackBerryالذكيّة من الفولذ العال الجودة القاوم للصدأ :يتوافر التصميم الكث حداثة P’9982بأناط مختلفة ومنها تصميم مغلّف بالجلد اليطال أو جلد التمساح. سنة ،2010أطلقت Porsche Designمجموعتها من االسلع الجلديّة البتكرة بحرفيّة عالية الجودة .ض ّمت الجموعة ستة جلديّة من جلد النابا الدبوغ اقتصت عل 200 قطعة حول العال .من القطع الخرى ستة مبطّنة من الجلد السويدي الفائق النعومة وستة Tec Flexجلديّة ذات جِيب السمعات. بسحابات مقفلة وحلقات لسلك ّ يشح الدكتور ،Juergen Gesslerمدير Porsche Designالتنفيذي ،تيّز الجموعة الجلديّة قائلً“ :تربط العمليّة والجمل بإتقان وتتمش مع منتجاتنا بانسيابيّة .ل يغي الخاص .بالتال، ذلك من مبدئنا؛ ل نتبع الوضة بل نبتكر أسلوبنا ّ تساهم الناقة العمليّة التي نخلقها ف ضمن فرادة مجموعاتنا ف مجال الزياء”. قد تكون حقيبة اليد الشهية TwinBagالثال الفضل عن دمج العلمة النسياب للعمليّة والوضة .ابتُ ِكرت باستخدام أكث أنواع الجلود فرادة ونفّذت بإتقان عل يد حرفيّي ف بحملت قابلة فلورنس وتيّزت بطريقة حملها البتكرة .تتمتّع ّ للتعديل فتتيح للشخص حملها كحقيبة يد تقليديّة أو تعليقها عل الكتف. كل حقيبة من قطعة جلد واحدة ،تقطّب ف ما بعد ت ُصنع ّ يدويّاً وبإتقان .البُطانة مصنوعة من مادّة Alcantaraالفائقة النعومة وتشمل الكسسوارات العدنيّة الكروم والفضّ ة والذهب globalblue.com
81
ترجمة باللغة العرب ّية Freshness In A Bottle: 40
ش ف زجاجة إنتعا ٌ
اشتهر العطّارون اللان بالبتكار منذ إطلق العطر الخفّف Eau .de Cologneواليوم تخلف العطور الحديثة بجدارة هذا الشذى الكلسيك ،تقرير Gwyneth Holland
اقتنت مساهمة العطّارين اللان ف عال العطور بالبتكار والباعة لقرون .ولطالا شكّل Eau de Cologneالعطر الشهر ف ألانيا؛ركّبه Giovanni Maria Farinaسنة 1709وتعطّرت به كافّة الس الالكة ف أوروبا .قال Farina إ ّن الشذى النعش ذكّره بـ “صباح يوم إيطا ّل ربيعي ،حيث تفوح رائحة النجس الجبل وبراعم البتقال بعد الطر” ،بعيدا ً كل البعد عن العطور القويّة الحلوة غي العقّدة آنذاك .ابتكر ّ عطرا ً من شذى الحمضيّات وبعض العشاب ُس ّم َي Eau de Cologneتي ّمناً بدينته ،وخلق معه نوعاً جديدا ً تاماً من العطور .ما زال ابتكار Farinaيُنتج بعد مرور ثلثة قرون. تكّن من التأثي عل أشهر عطر مخفّف ف العال وهو 4711 الذي ما زال مشهورا ً عاليّاً لطريقة توضيبه الكلسيكيّة وشذاه اللّطيف النعش .تتلكه اليوم شكة العطور & Mäurer تتوسع Wirtzوما زال يُ ّ حض بحسب تركيبته الصليّة ،لكن ّ العلمة لتشمل جمهورا ً أكب من خلل عطورها الجديدة Wunderwasserللرجال والنساء ولستها اليطاليّة عل العطر الخفّف ف مجموعة .Acqua Colonia ربا ل تحقّق دور العطور اللانيّة الجديدة بعد النتشار ّ العالي الذي حقّقه عطر ناجح مثل 4711ول تتمتّع بعد بطابع العطر الفرنس الميّز لك ّنها تكمل عمل Farina الرائد من خلل تطعيم شذاها بالباعة والبتكار والفرادة. يقول Tamas Tagschererمن علمة العطور الراقية JF والختصة بالعطور الفاخرة ،Schwarzloseالواقعة ف برلي ّ التي تعكس أسلوب الدينة ،يقول“ :ألانيا بلد البتكارات ،حيث يعمل الناس عل أحلمهم ويطمحون إل خلق شء جديد”. تأسست JF Schwarzloseسنة 1856وأُعيد ّ إطلقها سنة 2012بإدارة الص ّمم Lutz Herrmann والعطّارة Véronique Nybergوخبي التسويق Tamas .Tagschererيلخّص العطر الخي الذي أطلقته الشكة باسم التغي وطابعها Zeitgeistروح برلي البتكرة وقدرتها عل ّ الحس من خلل العنب والسك وخشب الصندل المزوج مع ّ مادّت caloneو .edelonideيقول “ :Tagschereما زالت مختصة بالعطور جديدة وغي فكرة وجود علمة تجاريّة ألانيّة ّ مألوفة بالنسبة إل معظم الناس ،لذا يجدونها أمرا ً مبتكرا ً ومثيا ً للهتمم”. تجدر الشارة إل أ ّن بعض الشاريع مثل Biehl Parfumkunstwerkeف هامبورغ تع ّزز شهرة ألانيا بالعطور البتكرة غي العتياديّة من خلل الرتقاء بالعطر إل مستوى الف ّن .يعمل العطّار الشهي Thorsten Biehlمع بعض أبرز الخباء ف مجال العطور ليبتكر روائح فريدة من نوعها وبكميّات محدودة .يكن “ف ّنانو العطور” أمثال Mark
Buxtonو Arturetto Landiو Patricia Chouxو Engon Oelkersو ،Geza Schoenومن دون ضغوطات تسويقيّة ،أن يبتكروا روائح مميّزة لحبّي العطور الحقيقيّي. الخاصة بـ تقدّم علمة العطور Escentric Molecules ّ Geza Schoenروائح غي متوقّعة لخباء العطور الدقيقي. تقول Schoenف هذا الصدد“ :لطالا اعتب معظم أصدقائ العطر كثيا ً ج ّدا ً ،حلوا ً ج ّدا ً ،قوياً ج ّدا ً ،مع ّززا ً ج ّدا ً برائحة الفاكهة ...ففكّرت أنّه من الستحسن استخدام الرائحة كهالة أحادي أكث منها كعطر نوذجي ،لذا كان ل ب ّد أن يكون طوليّاً، ّ البعد تقريباً ،لكن شديد الجاذبيّة ”.تقوم عطورها “الحاديّة البعد” ف مجموعة Moleculesعل مك ّون واحد مثل ambroxanأو vertiveryle acetateأو ،Iso E Super ف حي تأت مجموعة Escentricأكث تعقيدا ً “من خلل التلعب بالجزيئة ف تركيبة عطر أكب” عب دمج العناص الكلسيكيّة والفائقة الحداثة مع بعضها البعض. أ ّما لدى علمة Frau Tonisف برلي ،فيعتمد العطّارون تقل إلهاماً عن غيها .تحيي العلمة مقارب ًة أكث خصوصيّة ل ّ عطور الاض الميّزة من خلل روائح جديدة مثل Aventure الك ّون من خشب الرز والعنب والفلفل الوردي وLinde Berlinالذي يذكّر بأشجار الزيزفون العطرة الشهية ف برلي و Violetالستوحى من عطر ابتُكر لـ Marlene Dietrich ف العشينات .ولبتكار شذى فريد من نوعه ،يكن ز ّوار متجر Frau Tonisف برلي بالقرب من Checkpoint الخاص .تُباع عطور العلمة اليوم Charlieتركيب عطرهم ّ ف محلت ف نيويورك وميلنو وبرشلونة ومدريد وهي خي مثال عل أثر ألانيا الستم ّر عل عال العطورّ .أسست العلمة Stefanie Hanssenالتي تؤمن أ ّن شهرة العطور اللانيّة بالجودة والبتكار قويّة كم كانت عل الدوام“ .من الؤكّد أنّه و ّل الزمن الذي كان ل ب ّد فيه للعطر أن يأت من فرنسا أو إيطاليا ليُعرف”. ،m-w.de ،schwarzloseberlin.com ،biehl-parfum.com ،escentric.com frau- tonis- parfum.com Form And Function: 46
الشكل والعمليّة
تشتهر الصناعة اللانيّة بالدقّة عاليّاً با ف ذلك العلمات التجاريّة الختصة بالزياء .وقد استغنمت هذه الفرصة الجموعات ّ الشتويّة للعلمات البرز ف البلد ،تقرير Clare Coulson أي ٍ كل بلد ف وقت مض،مع بروز ّ باتت الزياء عاليّة أكث من ّ مجال معي .يتف ّوق الميكيّون باللبس الرياضيّة الفاخرة وما من أحد يضاهي الطليان بالجلود ف حي تبقى باريس مقصدا ً للسلوب النيق النثوي .غالباً ما يت ّم الحديث عن الدقّة اللانيّة كل شء من تكنولوجيا متقدّمة إل سيّارات خارقة ،ويكن ف ّ الختصة بالزياء. تطبيقها أيضاً عل العلمات التجاريّة ّ تتميّز العلمات اللانيّة بالعمليّة والحتاف ف التصميم والتصنيع فتفتخر بواقعيّتها الفطريّة التي تأت ف الوقت الناسب تغيا ً جذريّاً نتيجة إدراك العلمات التجاريّة تاماً .تشهد الزياء ّ
82 | P RO D U C T S
Souvenir
MIXED MATERIALS Let German fne jewellery label Konplott wash away your winter blues with this bright and beautiful statement necklace. Founded by designer Miranda Konstantinidou almost two decades ago, the brand produces eye-catching, colourful jewellery made from hand-selected materials. As with this coral-coloured creation, each piece is crafted from a wide variety of beads and stones sourced from across the world, and includes the old and the new, Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 70
the natural and the hand-painted. Unexpected materials such as opal glass, ceramics, wood, stone or rubber are intricately set alongside luxurious crystal rhinestones. Each piece of jewellery by Konplott is assembled by hand in limited numbers, making this necklace exclusive as well as enchanting. hl Konplott necklace, â‚Ź398, Konplott, Mittelstrasse 29, 50672 Cologne, +49 (0)221 258 9308, konplott.com * for map go to page 64
TOM TAILOR STORE KÖLN, HOHE STRASSE 137
G o l d e n Swo r d S C lu tC h
Meissen 庐-Porzellan-shoP K枚ln 路 WallrafPlatz 3 路 tel: 0221 2585677