SHOP Copenhagen AW14

FUSION COL L EC T ION AMAGERTORV 4 COPENHAGEN – COPENHAGEN AIRPORT – SØNDERGADE 1 AARHUS WWW.GEORGJENSEN.COM +45 70 12 34 20

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QUALITY GUARANTEED BY COPENHAGEN AMBER MUSEUM Copenhagen Amber Museum & Shop by Nyhavn, 2 Kongens Nytorv House of Amber on Strøget, 6 Nygade • House of Amber by Tivoli, 1A Vesterbrogade Open Monday-Sunday • www.houseofamber.com

Welcome to the Centre of Modern Design

Enter the department store Illums Bolighus and enjoy an exclusive world of quality and world-famous international and Danish design. On four foors of inspiring displays you will fnd only the very fnest in exquisite design, kitchenware, tableware, lamps, carpets, textiles, furniture and fashion.

10, AMAGERTORV 路 DK-1160 COPENHAGEN K PHONE +45 33 14 19 41 路 WWW.ILLUMSBOLIGHUS.DK

Editor’s Letter Athens and Thessaloniki Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Buenos Aires Cologne Copenhagen Cyprus

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Let SHOP guide you as you explore Copenhagen. Read about Danish design’s excitingly fresh new directions (page 44), meet Keld Mikkelsen, founder of Danish brand Day Birger et Mikkelsen (page 50), and much more. SHOP is part of Global Blue, a Tax Free Shopping market leader, and publishes guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you everything you need to know about your chosen destination, including the essential stores, boutiques, restaurants and places to visit. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. It’s even easier to claim your tax savings with the Global Blue Card – signing up is free and you can fnd all the details on the website. And don’t forget to download the Global Blue mobile app!

Emma Cheevers

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Welcome to Copenhagen

cara delevingne Bag

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Pâté UK-based graphic artist Pâté, whose colourful and clever artwork has been commissioned by Transport for London, Fortnum & Mason and YCN, among others, created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Copenhagen, inspired by our feature about Danish design on page 44. Pâté has created his own take on the subject with this lamp, reminiscent of the city’s planetarium. Read more about our cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

PHOTO: SVEN ESELGROTH

ILLUSTRATION: PâTé

Contributors

Gemma Latham Gemma Latham, SHOP’s fashion assistant, has contributed to various publications as an editor, writer and stylist. The former editor of StyleEtc magazine, she has interviewed designers including Mary Katrantzou, Antonio Berardi and Fei Liu, and covered fashion news and events in the UK, Europe and Asia. globalblue.com

Fiona Harkin Editor and trend forecaster Fiona Harkin travels the world working for trend sites including wgsn.com and stylus.com. She also contributes to the Financial Times, Independent, British Vogue and the International Herald Tribune. In this issue she speaks to Keld Mikkelsen of Day Birger et Mikkelsen about his vision for the brand’s future.

S Ca n d i n aV i a S Le a d i n G f u r & fa S h i o n h o u S e Prada Miu Miu CĂŠline Valentino Saint Laurent Givenchy Moncler Lanvin

Ă&#x2DC;stergade 38 . 1100 Copenhagen K denmarK . t +45 33 11 55 55 . Birger-Christensen.Com

Shop Floor E DI TOR I A L Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers Managing editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Pâté Contributors Rachel Blunstone, Fiona Harkin Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Ruairidh Pritchard Features editor Stephen Doig City guide and lifestyle editor Verity Hogan Fashion and news editor Dominique Fenn Assistant fashion and market editor Ximena Daneri Assistant fashion and news editors Hannah Lewis, Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion assistant Gemma Latham Editorial intern Sammy Ha Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew Picture editor Dorcas Brown Assistant picture editors Kirsty Andrews, Sarah Beyts Picture assistants Grace Bird, Mónica Goya Picture intern Rubi Ali Artworker Adam Dhaliwal Artworking assistants Dionne Hélène, Ai-Lun Huang, Milkha Lala Artworking intern Hibba Sayeed

PU BL ISH I NG Publisher James Morris Online editor Kirsty Welsh Online editorial assistant Katie Ramsingh Online assistants Marina Nelson, Emily Scrivener Commercial editor Justine Clifton Commercial artworking assistant Aaron Carline Commercial artworking interns George Trinick, Ellie Vigors Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok Associate Russian editor Daria Orlova Assistant Russian editor Kira Savchenko Russian editorial assistant Linda Blank Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese contributing editor Qingya He Chinese translators Xun Ji, Mengjiao Qu, Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi, Yi Zhang Chinese interns Yunhan Fang, Tiantian Liu Japanese editor Kyoko Nishimoto SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Digital manager Eamonn Leacy Digital production manager Funmi Paul-Taiwo Online commercial editor Sally Ashley-Cound Project manager Bina Summan International digital marketing executive Nina Kobalia Digital marketing executive Wenhan Zhang Digital production assistant Paul Lecoanet Advertising and partnership manager Riccardo Canini Distribution and partnership manager Claudia Suárez Print Dane Consultancy GLOBA L BLU E DENM A R K Country manager Stine Juelner Sales and marketing assistant Katrine Grønbek Sales manager Morten Winther Account managers Mark Parrish, Christian Mollerup Sorensen Sales co-ordinator Maria Brandt Ibing Global Blue Denmark, Overgaden oven Vandet 48E, DK-1415 Copenhagen K Distribution partners Wonderful Copenhagen Tourist Information Over 50 Copenhagen hotels Copenhagen Airport

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2014 Global Blue

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S C A N D I N AV I A N F O R

E V E R Y O N E

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D E S I G N

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Contents

P ro d u c t s 26 Check Out sHoP selects a standout piece from copenhagen this season 28 My Favourites Fashion stylist Kristine Wold reveals her top tips for autumn/winter 2014/15 32 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories

N eWs 36 Shop Window one store not to be missed in copenhagen 38 News seasonal updates on shops, services and new products 42 In Store … … with shamballa Jewels co-founder Mads Kornerup in the stunning fagship on Ny Østergade

F e at u r e s 44 Cover Story: Danish Design: A Fresh Future New talent is transforming denmark’s long-established design industry with some excitingly forward-looking approaches, reports rachel Blunstone

50 New Day Keld Mikkelsen, founder of day Birger et Mikkelsen, has drawn on inspiration from Italy to refresh this quintessentially danish brand. Fiona Harkin discovers his plans 58 Talent Show the original yet wonderfully wearable danish brands showcased at copenhagen Fashion Week are set to take the world by storm, says Hannah Lewis

e x Pe r I e Nce 66 Café Society copenhagen’s café ofering ranges from cosy vintage hideaways to sleek cosmopolitan spaces. Verity Hogan selects some of the best 72 Stay In Style sHoP’s guide to the world’s most exclusive hotels 76 My Weekend sHoP’s managing editor sally McIlhone shares her highlights from an indulgent short break in copenhagen

www.skagen.com

Skagen Denmark Concept Stores: Strøget, Vimmelskafet 42, CPH Søndergade 42, Aarhus Sct. Laurentii Vej 6, Skagen

Contents Gu i de

eSSenti a lS

79 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Copenhagen, plus SHOP’s unique view of the city’s sights 94 My City Charlotte eskildsen, founder and creative director of danish brand designers Remix, shares her Copenhagen recommendations

96 How To Shop Tax Free the simple steps to saving money on your shopping

t R a n S l at i On S 98 Русский Перевод 105 美文翻译 108 日本語翻訳

SOu v e n i R 114 the essential item to bring home

E n gl i s h | Р ус с к и й | 中文

Online FASHION

COMPETITIONS

PHOTO: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com

GET SOCIAL Follow the Global Blue editors on the move for up-to-theminute shopping tips and insider information.

/GlobalBlue /GlobalBlueRu @GlobalBlue @环球蓝联-GlobalBlue @环球蓝联-GlobalBlue /globalblue /globalblue /globalblue

26 | P RO D U C T S

Check Out

BRIGHT AND BEAUTIFUL Only a designer as skilled as Frida Giannini could make a mustard yellow satchel this enticing. The shoulder bag is part of a new collection celebrating Gucci’s jet-set identity, ofering beautiful yet practical handbags perfect for travellers. Embracing Gucci’s heritage of fne Florentine craftsmanship, Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 96

the bag features the distinctive piston closure from the original Jackie bag, which was named for Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis. Made from grained leather, the satchel is soft and light, its shape modern and youthful – the perfect piece to brighten an outft in the colder months. hl Gucci Jackie soft satchel, 13,125DKK, Gucci, Østergade 46, 1100 Copenhagen, +45 3336 6883, gucci.com for map go to page 86

ØSTERGADE 26

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MY FAVOURITES: Kristine Wold Norwegian-born fashion stylist Kristine Wold lives and works in Copenhagen. She has worked with a wide range of brands, including Danish labels Only and Dyrberg/Kern, and collaborated with them on everything from television advertisements to music videos to magazine features. She shares her fashion recommendations and must-have items with Gemma Latham kristinewold.carbonmade.com

1. ‘You can buy a piece of Royal Copenhagen porcelain as a souvenir from the city’ Royal Copenhagen cups, 499DKK for two, Royal Copenhagen, Amagertorv 6, 1160 Copenhagen, +45 3313 7181, royalcopenhagen.com

2. ‘I just discovered this brand and I absolutely love it. It’s everything I’m dreaming about and very much in line with my styling taste right now’ KTZ autumn/winter 2014/15 collection, Storm, Store Regnegade 1, 1110 Copenhagen, +45 3393 0014, k-t-z.co.uk

Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 96

3. ‘I always have Mac Ruby Woo lipstick with me’ Mac Ruby Woo lipstick, 165DKK, Mac, Købmagergade 38, 1150 Copenhagen, +45 3391 3077, maccosmetics.com

S H O P | 29

5. ‘Danish designer Asger Juel Larsen has made quite a name for himself within a short time. Autumn/winter 2014 is his strongest collection yet’

Asger Juel Larsen autumn/winter 2014/15 collection, Nag Store, Pilestræde 47, 1112 Copenhagen, +45 3393 9318, asgerjuellarsen.com

PHOTO: © gOrunway.cOm

4. ‘My signature fragrance is Opium by Yves Saint Laurent’ YSL Opium eau de parfum, from 535DKK for 30ml, Magasin du Nord, Kongens Nytorv 13, 1095 Copenhagen, +45 3311 4433, yslbeauty.com

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Meaning ful charms

·intuition·

· c r e at i v i t y ·

· pat i e n c e ·

New slender silver bracelet. Charms stay in place.

Kyleigh Kühn, Social Entrepreneur and ambassador for the ESSENCE COLLECTION. Discover the full collection at Pandora.net Flagship Store: Amagertorv 18-20, Copenhagen Copenhagen: Airport, Illum, Fisketorvet

32 | P RO D U C T S

GRAPHIC DESIGN

Geometric print and luxury leather accessories give this cropped jacket a chic edge

1. Louis Vuitton cuf bracelet, 5,200DKK, Louis Vuitton, Amagertorv 2, 1160 Copenhagen, +45 3315 1022, louisvuitton.com 2. Sand jacket, 2,795DKK, Sand, Østergade 40, 1100 Copenhagen, +45 3314 2121, sand.dk

Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 96

3. Cos dress, 890DKK, Cos, Østergade 33-35, 1100 Copenhagen, +45 3697 8881, cosstores.com 4. Lanvin brogues, price on request, Lanvin, Østergade 38, 1100 Copenhagen, +45 3311 5555, lanvin.com

www.kaufmann.dk Str酶get 路 Nygade 2-4 路 Copenhagen

34 | P RO D U C T S

ON THE ROAD These winter travel essentials for men combine quality and style 1

1. Burberry smartphone case, 1,200DKK, Burberry, Ă&#x2DC;stergade 21-23, 1100 Copenhagen, +45 3336 6896, burberry.com

3. Skagen Ancher watch, 1,298DKK, Skagen, Vimmelskaftet 42, 1161 Copenhagen, +45 3336 2030, skagen.com

2. Victorinox suitcase, 2,700DKK, Magasin du Nord, Kongens Nytorv 13, 1095 Copenhagen, +45 3311 4433, victorinox.com

4. Diesel jeans, 1,599DKK, Diesel, KĂ¸bmagergade 19, 1150 Copenhagen, +45 3927 5655, diesel.com

Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 96

PHOTO: (2) SPeckHard PHOTOgraPHy

S H O P | 35

5. Hugo Boss holdall, 3,799DKK, Boss, Østergade 15, 1100 Copenhagen, +45 3311 4166, hugoboss.com

7. G-Star Raw boots, 1,300DKK, G-Star, Antonigade 2A-2C, 1106 Copenhagen, +45 3369 0033, g-star.com

6. Acne Studios coat, 6,200DKK, Acne Studios, Pilestræde 40, 1112 Copenhagen, +45 3393 0090, acnestudios.com

8. B&O Play Form 2i headphones, 999DKK, Bang & Olufsen, Østergade 18, 1100 Copenhagen, +45 3311 1415, beoplay.com

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36 | N E W S

Shop Window

110 YEARS OF SUCCESS Royally appointed Danish silversmith Georg Jensen celebrates its 110th anniversary this year. To commemorate the occasion, the fagship store in Copenhagen has been completely refurbished to refect the brand’s commitment to innovation in design. The central foor of the three-storey boutique is devoted to Georg Jensen’s extensive silverware collections, Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 96

displayed on teak tables and in restored mahogany cabinets sourced from the brand’s frst store. Georg Jensen’s craftsmanship, heritage and visionary approach to design make a visit to the store a must. With an array of jewellery, timepieces and homeware also to be discovered, Georg Jensen is the perfect place to fnd a souvenir to treasure forever. gl Georg Jensen, Amagertorv 4, 1160 Copenhagen, +45 3311 4080, georgjensen.com * for map go to page 86

PROFESSIONAL AND CLASSIC CAMERAS

“We are suppliers of a broad range of quality cameras and accesories for both the professional and the demanding amateur photographer.”

Visit our shop in the center of Copenhagen, just close to “Strøget” and Jorcks Passage.

Skindergade 41 . 1159 Copenhagen K . TEL +45 33 14 12 15 WWW.PHOTOGRAFICA.COM . MAIL@PHOTOGRAFICA.COM

PHOTO: © ALASTAIR PHILP WIPER

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A FASHIoNABle IllUm’S NeW BReW looK Danish fashion designer Henrik Vibskov has opened a café in copenhagen’s christianshavn district. With stripy, colourful décor inspired by piano strings, the quirky interior is an extension of the designer’s distinctive clothing creations. Attractive fowerpots and trees line the wooden decking outside the café, and a wide range of cofees, teas and fruit juices makes this the ideal refreshment stop during a day spent exploring this historical part of the city. gl Café Den Plettede Gris, transgravsvej 5, 1436 copenhagen, henrikvibskov.com Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 96

Illum, copenhagen’s premier department store, has many surprises to reveal over the next fve years. Recently acquired by Italian retail group la Rinascente, Illum is investing €50m in regeneration. this autumn visitors can marvel at Illum’s new entrance and façade. An enticing array of individual fagship stores will be opening on the ground foor, as well as a new area for watches and jewellery, a new accessories department and a new restaurant area. sm Illum, Østergade 52, 1100 copenhagen, +45 3314 4002, illum.dk * for map go to page 86

S H O P | 39 includes a Tax Refund Calculator to tell you how much you’ll save on every purchase you make in every different country you visit. There are also instructions on how to use Currency Choice, our service that allows you to pay in your home currency. globalblue.com

SHOP THE WORLD Using our wealth of insider knowledge, we have created a smartphone app to help you to plan your trip. The app gives information on 45 cities in 22 countries – thousands of stores are listed and located on maps, with full contact details and a description of what each store sells. Our maps guide you right to the store and can also be downloaded for offline use enabling you to create your own itinerary. You can also sign up for the Global Blue Card and, once you’re logged in the My Tax Refund wallet becomes available, allowing you to track pending refunds. The app is available in Chinese, English and Russian, and

Download the Global Blue guide from the App Store or Play Store

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

Welcome to ISABel mARANt

globalblue.com

Parisian designer Isabel marant has just opened her frst monobrand store in copenhagen, bringing Denmark the widest range yet of her much-coveted aesthetic. marant’s signature style is luxurious and bohemian. Her genius lies in making wearable clothes without compromising on style. the new store carries women’s readyto-wear, shoes, accessories and jewellery from both the main Isabel marant line and the Isabel marant Étoile difusion range. hl Isabel Marant, Ny Østergade 34, 1101 copenhagen, isabelmarant.com * for map go to page 90

PHOTO: STAMERS KONTOR

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BLAST FROM THE PAST

THE SCIENCE OF BEAUTY

A hot ticket at Copenhagen Fashion Week, Danish brand Wood Wood has gathered a cult following with its youthful and sporty style. Ofering menswear and womenswear, the brand creates luxury apparel with a streetwear edge, a combination the Danes are well known for. As well as a boutique on Grønnegade, Copenhagen is also home to the Wood Wood Museum, a concept store which stocks the best of past seasons, not only from Wood Wood but also from a number of other brands, carefully curated to ft the label’s cool aesthetic. Filled with great fnds that you’re unlikely to get anywhere else, this is a must-visit store. hl Wood Wood Museum, Frederiksborggade 54, 1366 Copenhagen, +45 3535 6264, woodwood.dk

Combining natural ingredients with the latest innovations in biochemistry has earned Danish skincare and cosmetics specialist Tromborg a loyal following. Tromborg products contain scientifcally proven active ingredients, essential oils and plant extracts. The newest collection, Beauty of North, ofers an anti-ageing face cream, enriching mask and mattifying pore treatment to suit all skin types. gl Magasin, Kongens Nytorv 13, 1095 Copenhagen, +45 3311 4433, tromborg.com * for map go to page 90

Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 96

w w w. o l e ly n g g a a r d . c o m

j e w e l l e r y d e s i g n c h a r l o t t e & o l e ly n g g a a r d w e lc o m e t o o u r f l a g s h i p s t o r e s â&#x20AC;˘ c o p e n h a g e n c i t y c e n t r e : n y Ă¸ s t e r g a d e 4 c o p e n h a g e n a i r p o r t : n y t o r v â&#x20AC;˘ s t o c k h o l m c i t y c e n t r e : h a m n g ata n 1 1

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In Store: Shamballa Jewels

‘I had three main inspirations when I created Shamballa Jewels. First, I have been practicing yoga and meditation for many years and wanted to create jewellery whose value extends beyond its material value, and to inspire conversation and introspection through design, just as prayer beads and spiritual symbols did in ancient times. The second was to make jewellery for men. I have always enjoyed wearing jewellery, but didn’t fnd many options, and so I had to Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 96

design pieces for myself. The third was to make fne jewellery for the modern man and woman. It had to be casual, relaxed, something that could be worn every day instead of being locked up in a safe only for special occasions. ‘At Shamballa Jewels we have a special team of very committed individuals who love jewellery and stand by our values of compassion and wisdom. At the head ofce, we are a closely knit group of 23

PHOTOS: Ximena Daneri

Mads Kornerup, the co-founder and creative director of Danish fne jewellery label Shamballa Jewels, invited Ximena Daneri to the company’s Copenhagen fagship, which he designed in collaboration with architect Peter Bundgaard Rützou of Space Copenhagen

N E W S | 43

full-time “Shamballaizers”. If we include our goldsmiths and agents, we are approximately 50. ‘We opened this store in December 2012, on Ny Østergade, which is rapidly evolving into Copenhagen’s most luxurious street. Our store faces two historical landmarks, the Hotel d’Angleterre and Café Victor, the natural habitats of our clientele – they stay at d’Angleterre, lunch at Café Victor and shop at Shamballa Jewels.

‘The store has been my dream project and I have been involved in most details. You walk into a welcoming, open room. The store has a very tranquil interior and together with hidden details it invites you to discover and create. It has tall arches and detailed columns inspired by Buddhist stupas that transport you to oriental surroundings, while our Danish heritage shines through in clean lines and the use of our signature materials – smoked oak and burnished brass. Many have commented that our store feels like a meditation room, which is exactly the feeling I desired. ‘Our production facility is on the mezzanine right above the store, so our customers can get their bracelets customised on the spot. Our focus is customisable jewellery that is personalised, so everything we make is exclusive and unique. Our customers’ feedback has been that it is extra special to have something made, braided and polished right at the heart of Shamballa Jewels’s home in Copenhagen. ‘Our opening night was incredibly special. We are an international brand and I have lived in diferent places around the world. It was an extraordinary feeling to open our fagship store in my home city, among friends and family who have known me since I started, and have supported my dreams.’ Shamballa Jewels, Ny Østergade 7, 1101 Copenhagen, +45 5374 2147, shamballajewels.com * for map go to page 90

Danish a fresh

PHOTO: Anne COllier

New talent is transforming Denmark’s long-established design industry with some excitingly forwardlooking approaches. Rachel Blunstone profles the names to know

888 /

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Above: English caption mo tet voluptatibus eniatem nullandem ium As qui rernati orenitae

design: future Danish design has long been associated with well-crafted products, but the vernacular for Mid-century Modern furniture and calm, understated design is changing. New talents are breaking away from Danish manufactureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s traditional

Above: Russian caption mo tet voluptati eniatem nullandem ium As qui rernati orenit

roots, and this emerging scene is taking the reins and ofering a fresh, forward-looking approach. This new breed of manufacturers remains Danish in sensibility â&#x20AC;&#x201C; keen to uphold a high level of craftsmanship and honesty to

materials – but it operates on a more international stage. Hay, the current behemoth of the design scene, doesn’t identify or brand itself as Danish, or even Scandinavian, but as a global agent fostering the best international designers. ‘There is a lot of design talent in Scandinavia as well as a strong tradition for manufacturers, but we work with new and established designers from all over the world,’ says Lene Skipper Hansen, communications manager at Hay. ‘Our focus is on the talent rather than its origin.’ The recently launched London-based sub-label Wrong for 98 / 108

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PHOTO: © DeLFINO SISTO LegNaNI

PHOTO: XXXXXX

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Hay, directed by British designer Sebastian Wrong, bears this out. The venture brings together an array of both young and established designers from a breadth of disciplines. The concept, which stemmed from the idea of developing a lighting range for the Danish brand, has expanded into a comprehensive collection of products that includes ceramics, textiles, glassware and furniture. There’s a mix-and-match aesthetic throughout this eclectic, attractive curation – fne pottery by Londonbased Ian McIntyre sits alongside the postmodernist prints of Previous: Raf Simons for Kvadrat Vidar 2 fabric on Isamu Noguchi’s Freeform sofa

PHOTO: CaSPeR SejeRSeN

S H O P | 47

French-born, Milan-based designer Nathalie Du Pasquier’s textiles. Aside from the emphasis on simple design, another key to the Hay’s wide appeal is its afordability. ‘We really believe in strong, honest and loyal relationships with designers and suppliers, which mean we can make strong products at reasonable prices,’ says Hansen. ‘We try to create good experiences for shoppers and create a universe where they will feel inspired.’ Textile design company Kvadrat insists that open-mindedness towards design and cooperation is essential to remain relevant in to-

day’s contemporary market. Driven by a strong collaborative ethos, the manufacturer constantly challenges the aesthetic, technological and functional properties of its textiles. ‘We regularly collaborate with the world’s fnest creative talents to create projects that push the boundaries of textile manufacturing and application,’ says a Kvadrat spokesperson. The results are quite spectacular. Kvadrat’s experimental exhibition at this year’s Milan Design Week drew on the talents of 22 designers to help refresh and reinterpret the brand’s well-known

Above (from lef): Nathalie Du Pasquier for Wrong for Hay cushions; Max Lamb for Kvadrat Divinia fabric smocks; François Dumas for Kvadrat Divinia fabric blankets make this chair unique

PHOTO: CaSPer SeJerSen

48 | F E AT U R E S

Divina fabric, whose felt-like capacity to express rich colours lends itself to bold and graphic translations played out by folded, layered and rolled shapes. Belgian duo Muller Van Severen’s daybed comprises sandwich-like layers of colour, while French designer François Dumas’s blankets take the shape of a seat when rolled up. Such collaborative projects, particularly with young, emerging designers, have opened Kvadrat up to new audiences. The recent launch of Belgian fashion designer Raf Simons’s frst collection of textiles and home ac-

cessories is Kvadrat’s biggest collaborative project yet. The fashion partnership sees the brand take a new direction with a range of 11 new fabrics which took twoand-a-half years to complete and ofers a refreshing alternative to the fat, woven textiles commonly used in upholstery. This not only makes Kvadrat stand out, it also shows what the brand describes as its ‘pioneering and creative spirit, that passionately contributes to a colourful contemporary culture.’ Design manufacturer Menu’s recent rebrand, which focuses on minimal shapes and signature co-

Above: Muller Van Severen day bed, a reinterpretation of the Divinia fabric

S H O P | 49

Craftsmanship, quality and a fresh approach make a winning combination lourways, reveals a contemporary attitude to modern living. Menu’s steadily growing collection is the result of several new collaborations and was designed with the modern consumer in mind. Shelving and clothing racks tap into the current trend for light forms, perfect for those living in smaller spaces and easier on shipping costs – ideal for anyone sending larger items home. Menu’s signature style is slightly androgynous and an intentionally neutral choice of colourways appeals to both male and female consumers. Neutral, muted hues of soft grey, sage green and dusky

pink can be adapted to all areas of the home or ofce, while interesting use of materials in some products, such as the concrete decorative accessories fnished with copper and leather, make for a signature style that is understated but refned. The current unpredictability of the Danish design scene is leading to some exciting new directions – and the Danish principles of craftsmanship and quality combined with fresh new approaches makes a winning combination hay.dk, kvadrat.dk, menu.as

Above (from top): Jan Plecháč & Henry Wielgus for Menu Stick System shelving unit; Mediums 1 by Ian McIntyre for Wrong for Hay

50 | F E AT U R E S

S H O P | 51

Keld Mikkelsen, founder of Day Birger et Mikkelsen, has drawn on inspiration from Italy to refresh this quintessentially Danish brand. He tells Fiona Harkin about his plans

PHOTO: PEPECPH.COM

New Day

Keld Mikkelsen personifes his fashion brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s free-spirited, lowkey style. His Caribbean tan, sparkling Mediterranean blue eyes and salt-and-pepper hair hint at his life as an international commuter. Mikkelsen commutes between Copenhagen, where he lives for three days a week, and his new home, a stately villa on the shores of Lake Como in Italy, which his partner in life and work, Marianne Brandi, is currently renovating. Day Birger et Mikkelsen is known for its laid-back styling, 100 / 110

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PHOTO: DAY-HOME.DK/CHRISTIAN B

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which combines ethnic infuences picked up on international travels with androgynous Scandi tailoring and vintage touches. The brand has forged a recognisably Danish fashion idiom since Mikkelsen founded it in 1997. He calls it ‘modern gypsy’ and ‘a mix of near and far’. Having directed the brand’s successful Day Home line, Brandi will no doubt bring her signature Northern European cool mixed with a sense of Danish hygge (cosiness) to their Italian villa – just as she did with their other waterside abode in the Caribbean. Mikkelsen and Brandi live the globetrotting lifestyle that is at the heart of Day – and it’s very much a family afair, with their daughter Amalie cited as the inspiration behind the label’s more youthful 2nd Day line. This recent change to his lifestyle has, says Mikkelsen, triggered a refresh of the Day brand, redirecting it for a new era. After Previous page: Keld Mikkelsen, founder of Day Birger et Mikkelsen

The globetrotting lifestyle at the heart of Day is a key influence on the brand’s new ranges spending time in Italian cities and being exposed to classic Italian brands such as Etro, Gucci and Prada, and their uncompromisingly idiosyncratic personalities, Mikkelsen was inspired to return to the roots of his brand. He remembers coming back from Italy and saying, ‘We are going to have details, colours, we’re going to have handmade touches, print, embellished fabrics. And we’re not going to make it so it looks like yesterday but make it look like it’s tomorrow.’ Above (from lef): Marianne Brandi; Day Birger et Mikkelsen Home autumn/winter 2014/15

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Mikkelsen wanted to move away from the kind of bohoeclecticism he now equates with summer music festivals, towards a more contemporary look. He told his team: ‘We’re going to trim it up so it’s sexy and inspiring and stylish – but not bohemian-luxury’ – a look he says he associates with Denmark’s annual Roskilde music festival. The success of the younger difusion range 2nd Day, with its layering-friendly tees and loose jersey dresses, edgy urban prints Above: 2nd Day campaign autumn/winter 2014/15

and cropped skinny trousers, allowed the main Day womenswear range to refocus on what it does best. This includes beautifully beaded, easy-wearing dresses that are eternally fattering; printed casual trousers that work just as well in summer as in the transitional months; sleek leather jackets; staple cashmere knits in fattering earthy tones; and vintage-inspired tops in lace, cotton and silk. ‘As soon as 2nd Day became successful, it released something

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in the mainline – a tension – we went back to the roots. I’m so proud to say that we took a decision and immediately got rewarded for it,’ says Mikkelsen, who plans to expand the brand with more franchises in Norway and four new stores in South Africa. He also plans to launch a youthful men’s collection as part of the 2nd Day range. The brand’s contemporary Home range is available in the fagship Copenhagen store on Pilestræde, where he has just decided to dedicate the entire second foor to its fastexpanding new accessories range, Et. Et includes jewellery, footwear and bags – and travel luggage, of course. The Gweneth shopper, which has proved a particular hit, is available in an expanding array of materials and colours and makes an ideal travel companion. What does Mikkelsen miss about his homeland? ‘When I am in Denmark I tend to go for the really traditional stuf, like the open

sandwiches, because I can’t get that in Italy.’ He points to Café Victor, one of his favourite haunts near Day HQ on the very swish Kongens Nytorv. ‘Copenhagen is becoming a very nice city, and partly because of fashion,’ he adds. ‘Because the Danish fashion week here has become a bigger Scandinavian fashion week, it has brought more fashion people to the city. With the fashion crowd, the restaurants become nicer, the food becomes nicer. This is a cool city.’ day.dk

Above: Day Birger et Mikkelsen fagship store, Copenhagen; Et accessories collection, autumn/winter 2014/15

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Talent The original yet wonderfully wearable Danish brands showcased at Copenhagen Fashion Week are set to take the world by storm, says Hannah Lewis

PHOTO: Marie MyrHøj jenSen

Show Copenhagen Fashion Week was bigger than ever this season. Thousands descended on the Danish capital to experience what is rapidly becoming one of the most exciting events on the fashion calendar. From the ultimate in avantgarde to classic Scandinavian minimalism, the talent on show was undeniable. As fashion insiders picked their way through the snow towards a huge warehouse on the edge of the city, high heels navigating precarious paths in near darkness, there was a feeling in the air that something special was about to happen. And it certainly was: Henrik 102 / 112

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Vibskov’s autumn/winter 2014/15 runway show, which was one of the most hotly anticipated of the event. Models marched around huge spinning installations that might have dwarfed a quieter collection, but Vibskov is never one to keep quiet, and his clothes drew everyone’s full attention, as look after look proved exactly why he’s at the top of his game. From layered, multi-coloured knits that burst with shocks of wool here and there to helmet-like hats that fastened at the chin, this was a playful, often unisex world of experimentation that somehow still seemed accessible. Lef: backstage at Stine Goya autumn/winter 2014/15

Stine Goya, who has been producing beautiful ready-to-wear under her eponymous label since 2006, is one of Denmark’s most exciting fashion exports. Her autumn/winter show opened with icy blues and crisp whites, shot through with bursts of abstract prints which took inspiration from cubism. Later came looks in classic black and gold, elegant enough for evening yet styled with an insouciance typical of Goya’s work. Slouchy tailoring was paired with pop socks and golden pool slides, part of a collaboration with H2O. You get the feeling that Goya really understands the women she designs for. The Stine Goya girl is ultra-cool and ultra-stylish without being exclusive or excluding – she is the girl everyone wants to be.

Scandinavian designers are creating fresh, fashion-forward clothes that people can’t wait to wear

PHOTO: nielS Müller

PHOTO: HenninG BaGGer

PHOTO: Marie MyrHøj jenSen

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Henrik Vibskov and Stine Goya are already making waves internationally, and brands like these bring a legitimacy to Copenhagen Fashion Week that allows it to grow and to nurture new talent. Its reputation is strong in the region, and not only Danish designers choose to make the city their home. Designer Bibi Chemnitz, who is originally from Greenland, has been showing under her own name for

Above (clockwise from lef): Stine Goya autumn/winter 2014/15; models wearing gold pool slides backstage at Stine Goya autumn/winter 2014/15 catwalk show; designer Henrik Vibskov

couldn’t be a better time for them to be designing. The world is paying attention to the city right now, and concepts from the Denmark catwalks trickle down into street style, continuing the dominance of Scandinavian style and infuences among the fashionable. All this attention must be particularly exciting for a designer like Maikel Tawadros, who showed for the frst time this season. Danish born and bred, he praises the city’s unique approach to the fashion event, which he fnds ‘laid back but in a structured way; everything is very professional but there is no snobbery.’ His collections have disparate inspirations, from nature and anatomy to the romance of different time periods, with his debut

three seasons. Her label, founded in collaboration with multimedia designer David Røgilds brings inspiration from Chemnitz’s home country into the Scandinavian streetwear arena. ‘Greenland, with its amazing nature and warm people, is something that is very present in our collections every season,’ explains Røgilds. ‘We try to mix this with urban street culture as seen in hiphop music and basketball.’ Viewed through the lens of the relaxed and easy-going Copenhagen vibe, these infuences make for sporty and minimal shapes edged with an almost mysterious aesthetic. Young brands such as Bibi Chemnitz are nurtured and encouraged in Copenhagen, their creativity is applauded, and there Above (from top): Henrik Vibskov; Bibi Chemnitz, both autumn/winter 2014/15

PHOTO: HOrdur ingasOn

PHOTO: Henning Bagger

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PHOTO: HOrdur IngasOn

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inspired by the spirit of the Renaissance. As he describes the ethos behind the collection, he could almost be describing the ethos that Copenhagen Fashion Week

encourages. ‘It’s about standing out and being an independent person. About making room for who you are, for your individuality.’ Tawadros’s show was certainly individual, his warrior-like models styled with tumbling waves of hair falling around faces framed with thick white paint strokes. A palette of moody greens and purples, as well as lashings of black, was given depth with unexpected touches like furry peplums and oversized mittens. Most importantly, Tawadros has achieved something that seems almost innate to Scandinavian designers: the ability to create fresh, fashion-forward clothes that people can’t wait to wear henrikvibskov.com, stinegoya.com, bibichemnitz.com, maikeltawadros.com

Above: Maikel Tawadros; Bibi Chemnitz, both autumn/winter 2014/15

Danish Jewellery Design 丹麦珠宝设计

Concept Store: Jorcks Passage 42

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Café SoCiety Copenhagen’s café ofering ranges from cosy vintage hideaways to sleek cosmopolitan spaces. Verity Hogan takes time out at a selection of the city’s best

Copenhagen’s growing café culture has come to rival that of Paris and Palermo for prevalence and diversity. Perhaps due to Denmark’s chilly, dark Scandinavian winters, cofee consumption among the Danes has always been among the highest in the world and coffee drinking has become such an important part of Danish culture that cofee shops and cafés ofering high-quality cofees can now be found on almost every corner. globalblue.com

The city has adapted to embrace the changes; numerous cofee bars have opened, existing cafés have upgraded their cofee menus and Danish baristas are attracting acclaim for their talents. There is a café to suit every taste, from sophisticated pan-European eateries to cosy hideaways equipped with vintage furnishings. Regardless of style, Copenhagen’s many cafés are all ideal places to sit back, relax and do as the locals do.

PHOTO: MARIA PETERSEN

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CoffEE CollECTivE CoPE n h agE n Copenhagenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cofee Collective is known for its strong personal relationships with cofee farmers around the world, resulting in distinctive espresso blends, perfectly brewed in each of its three branches. its vendersgade branch is the most central and, despite its

bustling atmosphere, maintains quality by hand-brewing every cup of cofee served. The cafĂŠ, managed by champion Danish barista Rasmus gamrath, is sure to appeal to cofee connoisseurs; its menu ofers a carefully chosen range of well-crafted cofees. Cofee Collective Copenhagen, vendersgade 6D, 1363 Copenhagen, +45 6015 1525, coffeecollective.dk

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Dag H C a f é Cosy, intimate and home to one of the fnest cofee selections in Copenhagen, it is unsurprising that Dag H Café is one of the city’s most popular meeting places. The café ofers visitors a varied menu based on seasonal produce; it is known for its brunch but also stocks a range of cakes and more substantial dishes including the

house beef burger, the east Bronx. The chefs are experienced and effcient while the front-of-house team is endlessly accommodating and well informed. The café is always busy – be sure to choose a seat on the sought-after terrace on warmer afternoons. Dag H Café, Dag Hammarskjölds allé 38, 2100 Copenhagen, +45 3527 6300, dagh.dk

C a f é B e va r ’ s

Café Bevar’s is an all-day coffee, beer and wine bar located in the heart of Nørrebro. Breakfast visitors can appreciate home-made croissants alongside cups of freshly brewed cofee while those dining later will enjoy a menu featuring carefully selected organic ingredients. The café’s unhurried atmosphere makes it the perfect place to spend an afternoon relaxing or working, thanks to its fast Wi-fi. globalblue.com

Café Bevar’s, ravnsborggade 10B, 2200 Copenhagen, +45 5059 0993, bevars.dk

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l a Gl aCe one of the oldest and best confectioners in Copenhagen, la Glace brims with heritage charm. the store was founded in 1870 and still features many original furnishings from this period alongside its vast cabinets flled with high-quality patisserie. the range is extensive,

including artisanal cakes, cookies and chocolates as well as la Glace’s signature ice-cream cakes. Be sure to try a traditional Danish marzipan cake or, for daintier appetites, the Princess thyra pastry, covered in icing and available in rum, chocolate or orange favours. La Glace, Skoubogade 3, 1158 Copenhagen, +45 3314 4646, laglace.dk

Sort K affe & Vinyl

the ideal café for cofee connoisseurs and record enthusiasts alike, Sort Kafe & Vinyl ofers one of Copenhagen’s more unusual concepts. the store’s record selection is diverse, stocking everything from mood pop to acid folk, while visitors can enjoy freshly brewed cofee by local roaster risteriet while they browse. the atmosphere is pleasantly relaxed, with visitors dropping in for a takeaway cup, perusing the vinyl or discussing musical tastes with like-minded fellow patrons. Sort Kafe & Vinyl, Skydebanegade 4, 1709 Copenhagen, +45 6170 3349 globalblue.com

Visit the LEGO® Store in the home of the brick!

How to ﬁnd us:

Opening Hours

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Mon - Thu: Fri: Sat: Sun:

Vimmelskaftet

10:00am - 6:00pm 10:00am - 7:00pm 10:00am - 6:00pm 11:00am - 5:00pm

LEGO Store Copenhagen - Vimmelskaftet 37, 1161 Copenhagen Tel: +45 5215 9158

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For a complete list of LEGO Stores, events, directions and more go to LEGO.com/stores

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Stay in Style The world’s fnest hotels have locations in the most sought-after city districts, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities ranging from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spa facilities ofering state-of-the-art treatments. SHOP shares its pick of some of the very best

Wyndham Grand FrankFurt The cosmopolitan design of the Wyndham Grand Frankfurt refects the modernity of its citycentre surroundings. Despite its designer credentials, the hotel has a warm and welcoming ambience and ofers a wealth of amenities that make it an ideal base for both business and leisure travellers. The hotel’s location on the banks of globalblue.com

the river Main means guests have easy access to Frankfurt’s most popular attractions, shops and museums, while rooms beneft from panoramic views across the city skyline. Expect a high standard of service and a host of conveniences including complimentary Wi-Fi, generous workspaces and ultracomfortable beds. Wyndham Grand Frankfurt, Wilhelm-Leuschner-Strasse 32-34, 60329 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 907 4590, wyndhamgrandfrankfurt.com

S H O P | 73

Buddha-Bar hotel Located in the heart of Prague, the Buddha-Bar Hotel brings oriental style and a touch of Eastern mysticism to the Czech capital. Decorated in vibrant shades of red and gold, each room features a black jacaranda bed and a headboard emblazoned with a dragon design, while some suites also have their own private Japanese garden. Be sure to visit one of the hotel’s

restaurants during your stay; opt for the Siddharta Café to sample a menu based on the fve Chinese elements, or admire the giant Buddha statue which overlooks diners at the pan-Asian Buddha-Bar Restaurant. The hotel’s spa suite is similarly impressive, featuring a jacuzzi, steam sauna, fre place and relaxed lounge – the ideal space to relax with a book. Buddha-Bar Hotel, Jakubská 8, 110 00 Prague, +420 221 776300, buddhabarhotelprague.com

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Hotel KärntnerHof A historic hotel imbued with character and charm, Hotel Kärntnerhof is one of Vienna’s best-kept secrets. Tucked away in a quiet side street, the hotel ofers lightflled rooms with high ceilings and extremely comfortable beds. A warm welcome is guaranteed with personable members of staf on hand to make your stay memorable; relax on the private terrace on warmer days and indulge with the extensive bufet breakfast. Hotel Kärntnerhof, Grashofgasse 4, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 1923, karntnerhof.com

Great nortHern Hotel One of Britain’s oldest railway hotels, the Great Northern is conveniently situated next to the Eurostar terminal at St Pancras International station. A perfectly preserved example of Victorian architecture, the recently refurbished hotel exudes heritage charm and retains many of the building’s original features. Relax with a cocktail at the bar before dining at the in-house restaurant Plum & Spilt Milk; chef Mark Sargeant’s refned menu puts a luxurious spin on classic cuisine and always uses the fnest British ingredients. globalblue.com

Great Northern Hotel, Pancras Road, London N1C 4TB, +44 (0)20 3388 0800, gnhlondon.com

ØSTERGADE 13, 1100 I MAGASIN, KONGENS NYTORV, KONGES NYTORV 13,2.SAL 1095 I ILLUM, OSTERGADE 52, 1001

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My Weekend Copenhagen is quickly becoming one of Europe’s favourite mini-break destinations. With exquisite Michelin-starred restaurants, a vibrant fashion scene and myriad cultural attractions, the city ofers a stunning range of activities. SHOP’s managing editor Sally McIlhone enjoys an unforgettable weekend in the Danish capital

PHOTO: Sally McIlHOne

Christiansborg Palace ‘Europe’s royal palaces rarely disappoint and the Christiansborg Palace certainly lives up to the hype. Home to the Danish parliament, supreme court and the prime minister’s ofce, the building is also regularly featured in Denmark’s popular noir dramas. Be sure to take a tour of its rooms – including the Queen’s reference library.’

Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 96

PHOTO: (PrOfIle PIcTure) Brad clarke PHOTOgraPHy

‘The eight-course Bornholmerbank menu served at Kadeau is an unrivalled gourmet experience. Presentation is as important as the taste, although appearances can be deceptive: expect sourdough bread sticks to arrive hidden in a bowl of twigs, and a crispy duck cracker with mushroom pickle to be disguised as a pebble.’

PHOTO: MarIe lOuISe Munkegaard

Kadeau

S H O P | 77

PHOTO: MIkkel aIS anderSen

Kødbyens Fiskebar ‘Set in Copenhagen’s trendy meatpacking district, Kødbyens Fiskebar serves some of the best fsh I’ve ever tasted. Each course was more delicious than the last: expect Scottish razor clams, seared king crab with bisque, and scallops with tomato and nasturtium.’

DIRECTORY

PHOTO: Sally McIlHOne

Christiansborg Palace, Prins Jørgens Gård 1, 1218 Copenhagen, +45 3392 6492, christiansborg.dk * for map go to page 80

Illums Bolighus ‘I’m always hunting for the perfect souvenir and Illums Bolighus ofers an unrivalled range. Founded in 1925, this acclaimed store has been seminal in cementing Denmark’s reputation as an international design capital. Options in store range from soft furnishings by Hay to Georg Jensen bathrobes.’

globalblue.com

Illums Bolighus, Amagertorv 10, 1160 Copenhagen, +45 3314 1941, illumsbolighus.dk * for map go to page 86 Kadeau, Wildersgade 10, 1408 Copenhagen, +45 3325 2223, kadeau.dk Kødbyens Fiskebar, Flæsketorvet 100, 1711 Copenhagen, +45 3215 5656, fskebaren.dk

G U I D E | 79

Guide

PHOTO: XimeNa daNeri

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Copenhagen with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from the fnest fashion boutiques to the most desirable dining options. Start with SHOP’s highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/copenhagen.

A GlimPSe OF COPenHAGen Above: Nyhavn, Copenhagen’s atractive harbour

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Sort Kaffe & Vinyl With an unrivalled selection of vinyl and freshly brewed coffee from local roasters Risteriet, Sort Kaffe & Vinyl is an ideal place to relax and refuel. Sort Kaffe & Vinyl, Skydebanegade 4, 1709 Copenhagen, +45 6170 3349 featured on page 70

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Geist A leading example of the New Nordic cuisine movement, the produce-driven menu at Geist is one of Copenhagen’s finest. Kongens Nytorv 8, 1050 Copenhagen, +45 3313 3713, restaurantgeist.dk featured on page 92

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Shamballa Jewels Embrace the spirit of the Far East with the imaginative, yoga-inspired collections on offer at fine jeweller Shamballa Jewels. Ny Østergade 7, 1101 Copenhagen, +45 5374 2147, shamballajewels.com featured on page 42

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OUR SAVIOURS CHURCH

Day Birger et Mikkelsen Combining relaxed styling, ethnic influences and androgynous Scandi tailoring, Day Birger et Mikkelsen’s collections are sure to impress. Pilestræde 16, 1112 Copenhagen, +45 3345 8880, day.dk featured on page 50

* Hotel Featured In This Issue

Tourist Information

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SNAPSHOTS OF A CITY

PHOTOS: ximena daneri; SaLLY mCiLHOne

‘Even in the colder months, Copenhagen is filled with people, sights and cuisine that will warm your heart’ – Sally McIlhone, SHOP’s managing editor

globalblue.com

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Follow our teamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s travels on Instagram @globalblue. Tag us in your city pictures when sharing them and you might see them in print!

5 foors with the best fashion brands Armani Jeans Barbour BOSS Burberry Canali Church’s Moncler Ralph Lauren Stenströms Paul & Shark Woolrich and many more 3 rd foor Big & Tall men’s wear 5 minutes’ walk from Tivoli

Vester Voldgade 5. 1552 Copenhagen V. Phone +45 33 12 13 94. Troelstrup.com

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Brunello Cucinelli, Pilestræde 8A, 1112 Copenhagen, +45 3389 8989, brunellocucinelli.com * for map go to page 86

Brunello Cucinelli, known as the ‘King of Cashmere’, uses this luxurious fabric to create a range of impeccably crafted separates. The label radiates casual elegance with its streamlined silhouettes and signature bold colour scheme. Cucinelli’s ethical approach is internationally renowned; the company adheres to a strong set of values in every part of its business.

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Frederiksberggade, Nygade & Vimmelskaftet

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Designer Vanessa Bruno, formerly a model, uses her rich sartorial background to produce subtly feminine collections that also embrace contemporary trends and sophisticated tailoring. Bruno’s pieces ofer efortless elegance with soft silhouettes and intricate embellishment. Vanessa Bruno, Østergade 24C, 1100 Copenhagen, +45 3219 9608, vanessabruno-cph.dk

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SELECTED STORES IN ILLUM:

COLLAGE THE SHOP

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Amagertorv & Østergade

F I L I PPA - K . C O M

Copenhagen: Ny Ă&#x2DC;stergade 13, Gl. Kongevej 99, Ă&#x2DC;sterbrogade 98, ILLUM, Magasin du Nord

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Købmagergade ● EPLEHUSET RENÉ ● ROSSMANN’S ● LAGKAGEHUSET DESTINY ● CHICO ● ● KULTORVETS URE GULD SØLV SKO FEBER ● 3 BUTIK ● TIGER ●

TE PUS

BO SK S ● G BO ES & IN ● LA GH ● ID PI N M AN É R DE ● T ES IT ● DE SC DC LØ SA SA M L OO ● ● VS GE M Æ ST P SØ TR RK ● ● E Æ ET SA RE E& S DE O ● I ST AM SA NT UD SØ IN TR E O T TR PE IO OP Z EZ

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● 7 ELEVEN H&M ● FEEL ● ● KAZA DOPE ● ● LOUIS NIELSEN BUTTERICKS ● ● LISBETH DAHL IREP.DK ● ● H&M KIDS ● TP MUSIK TELENOR ● ● !SOLID SMARTBOX ● ● OPTIKKENS HUS MATAS ● ● ECCO GLITTER ● ESTHERS KLÆDESKAB ●

RGA

TIM ES UP VINTAGE ● ARNOLD SCREWED ● BUSCK ● HENRIK VIBSKOV ● ● ANOTHER NUÉ D E ● PASHMINA HOUSE G A ● CARHARTT L A T

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finESt faShion boutiquES Monki Swedish import Monki combines current trends with its own brand of understated Scandi-cool, embracing structured shapes alongside print and colour. The label is perfect for those with a playful and individual sense of style and boasts a range of quirky accessories that are sure to delight. Monki, Købmagergade 3, 1150 Copenhagen, +45 3312 8363, monki.com

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Screwed Screwed’s menswear collection takes inspiration from classic sportswear while producing pieces that feature atypical cuts and unusual materials. Screwed, Krystalgade 4, 1172 Copenhagen, +45 4160 2232, screwedcph.dk Edith & Ella Line Markvardsen’s designs for Edith & Ella combine femininity with a bold colour scheme and exuberant patterns which range from florals and polka dots to animal print. Edith & Ella, Købmagergade 7, 1150 Copenhagen, +45 3321 4223, edith-ella.com

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Z ERT RH ETE ● P NÜ ● NE O C T I● ● HVA N S IN G S LI B ● B IL ● CARL N N CO ● ● T TO B IA OT ENE T R IC E L ● ● B M ATA S P T IK A S G IN ● SYNO D IE OX ● ● GE O● EKK H● R IM M A & F IT C ● BR B IE M O S● RCR ND ABE BRA Il lu m TO P A● ELL ● & H OA E D IT O A N ● N AS IT G P E T IE L E ● TH ● NKI GET MO

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Kultorvet

Department Store

A place where dreams come true. At Eplehuset we know all there is to know about Apple. Come for a visit if you want to experience Apple, or if you want to discover Copenhagen’s largest range of accessories. See, hear and experience Bang & Olufsen’s line of audio proucts for the iPad and iPhone. Or what about the Danish prize winner, Libratone the elegant AirPlay® design speaker? store. In the heart of Copenhagen. We look forward to seeing you.

Eplehuset - Your Danish Apple Expert. Located in the heart of Copenhagen. Frederiksborggade 8 | www.eplehuset.dk

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Kristen Bernikows Gade, Ny Østergade, Østergade, Christian IX’s Gade & Grønnegade GN

BOLIA.COM ●

● NO.10

CH RI ST

ME & AUDREY ●

● STINE GOYA

● ISABEL MARANT P.39 ● VIPP ● BEAU MARCHE

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AD NIELSEN & CO ● ● BOFORM E HUMAC ● BLOMSTERBERGS ● J.LINDBERG ● ● DICO NYGǺRDSANNA ● MANO MOTUS ● ACNE ● NS IC O ● P PP JEA ● ILL 7 TIGER OF SWEDEN ● A ● STORM ● DECADENT BIEN CHACHÉ ● ● N SHOP SEN E DER TRICOTAGE ● ØRGREEN ●COPENHAGEN PUR GE AN ● GANNI ● ZARAH VOIGT ● A FIGAROS URBAN FACTORY ●T X LALA BERLIN ● BRYLLUP ● ● KASSANDRA ● SA RØM E NN ST P.94 ● HOLLY GOLIGHTLY PIL ● A HAEL ES CASA SHOP ● FILIPPA K. ● IC TR RØ ● M ÆD THE NORTH FACE ● MARC E ● MASAI G ● JACOBS KIRK & SKOV ● DE ● WOOD WOOD WHIITE ● GA MUNTHE● TE CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN ● Perchs Thehandel VÆ R S LEXINGTON ● ELL ART AXEL ● ●K TR

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Ecco Ecco shoemakers take a meticulous approach to quality and detail throughout the company’s range, embracing innovative technology and using leathers made in the brand’s own tannery. Designs have a Scandinavian feel with simple yet efective styles intended to provide the most comfortable ft possible – trust the skilled in-store staf to ensure you leave with the perfect pair.

Ecco, Østergade 55, 1100 copenhagen, +45 3312 3511, dk.ecco.com * for map go to page 86

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Café

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WESC ● E AD CAMPER ● NIG NE TO A L E ● A N BY MIR G E R ● B OY D ● R AW LL TA R IK● G -S LER GAL

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Store Kongensgade, Bredgade, Store Strandstræde & Kongens Nytorv

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PETER BEIER ●

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● BITTE KAI RAND

PEN

● HALL DESIGNS ● CARL BOHN ● GIORGI & HEIN ● KÆRE VEN

● YS TO UE T IQ AN S● AR ● 'S IS M G E E RY M IA ● E M S TA S T ● N ALE ● R/V KE K LLE N LY K JØ Ø N● R GE EG R IV E O L AV ● ST GU CH

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NYHAVN (RESTAURANT AREA)

● GABOR ● KGS NYTORV SKO ● TELENOR

Kongens Nytorv Square

Magasin du Nord KONGENS NYTORV ST

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THE ROYAL THEATER

NytoRv’S beSt ReStAuRANtS Geist Geist’s striking yet minimalist interior ensures all attention is fixed on its produce-drive cuisine. Fresh ingredients are available in a series of small dishes, allowing diners to create their own menus. Geist, Kongens Nytorv 8, 1050 Copenhagen, +45 3313 3713, restaurantgeist.dk

Mash Mash offers an informal dining room and a menu based on high-quality steak. Mash, Bredgade 20, 1260 Copenhagen, +45 3313 9300, mashsteak.dk Restaurant Sankt Annæ This traditional restaurant specialises in homemade smørrebrød. Restaurant Sankt Annæ, Sankt Annæ Plads 12, 1250 Copenhagen, +45 3312 5497, restaurantsanktannae.dk

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MY COPENHAGEN: CHArlOttE EskildsEN Charlotte Eskildsen, the founder and creative director of Danish clothing brand Designers Remix, is one of Copenhagen’s most respected designers. She tells Hannah Lewis what makes Copenhagen such an amazing place to live and work designersremix.com

home. Holly Golightly * p.90 sells shoes and accessories from a nice selection of brands like Balenciaga, Rick Owens, Alaïa, Marni and more. ‘I like the Geist * p.92 restaurant, owned by the super-talented chef Bo Bech. La Glace has an amazing history and the best cake in town. Restaurant Kul is a funky new restaurant with simple, elegant dishes and an international feel. It’s located in the hip Meatpacking district. My regular hangout place is a classic bistro-style restaurant

PHOTO: (PROfilE PiCTURE) JENS lANGkJAER

‘I really love my city. It is truly an amazing place, especially when you have a family. The attitude towards children, daycare, schools and everything else is unique. ‘The Designers Remix boutique * p.86 on Pilestræde was my frst fagship store and it holds a special place in my heart. Everything great from the world of Danish design is available at Illum * p.86 You will fnd yourself needing things you never knew existed. Hay * p.86 ofers cool Danish design for your

Above (from lef): Hay design store on Østergade; a dish at Geist restaurant; the Black Diamond library

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PHOTO: CEES VAN ROEDEN

called Café Victor * p.90. I have been coming here forever with my family. ‘I always love to show guests Copenhagen from the harbour side. It is a trip that takes you past most of my favourite spots, such as the harbour pools, the Royal Library (also called the Black Diamond * p.80), the Queen’s castle and the old stock exchange building * p.80 – super-old and supermodern architecture all in one beautiful mix.

‘If I’m celebrating, it has to be Noma! It is the world’s best restaurant so it’s an obvious choice. The food and the concept is Nordic and unique – the food itself is art. ‘One of the best views in Copenhagen is from the worldfamous Arne Jacobsen Radisson Blu Royal Hotel [formerly the SAS Royal]. The Bar Royal on the 18th foor ofers both drinks and a view. All the little local marinas in and around Copenhagen are great hangout spots for a lunch or just a nice stroll.

Torvehallerne * p.80, selling food, fowers, cofee and much more, is where the locals do a lot of their everyday shopping and has a great atmosphere. My latest discovery is the Blue Planet, Copenhagen’s new aquarium. I showed my latest spring/summer collection at the venue, and it is so cool. ‘My favourite building is the national bank * p.81 designed by Arne Jacobsen. The best visitor attraction is the Amalienborg palace * p.81. Denmark is the oldest kingdom in the world; that is something truly unique to us. I also really like coming to the Statens Museum for Kunst. They always show grand exhibitions and they have a super-cool kids’ art workshop where my two girls spend hours. The Louisiana gallery is in a league of its own. ‘The Copenhagen canals are some of the cleanest in the world and you can swim in one of the dedicated areas at the Brygge, Fisketorvet and Svanemøllen islands. Or you can go to the Amager beach park and swim in the sea. ‘Don’t miss out on trying the Danish hot dog. Go for the organic version. You can fnd it at the hot dog stand next to the Round Tower * p.80 on Købmagergade. ‘Travel by bicycle, like the locals. Copenhagen is so small and it is such a good way to experience this city and its mood.’

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Translations РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 44: Danish Design: A Fresh Future

PHOTO: Anne COllier

Датский дизайн: проектируя будущее

С приходом новых талантов датская индустрия дизайна пополнилась рядом весьма интересных и перспективных техник. Рэйчел Бланстоун выяснила на кого стоит обратить внимание Датский дизайн уже давно ассоциируется с тонкой работой и сдержанным стилем, характерным globalblue.com

для мебели эпохи модерна, однако этому суждено измениться. Выросшие на датских традициях новоиспеченные таланы все дальше уходят от своих истоков, предлагая ранее неизвестные техники и подходы. И все же это новое поколение производителей ни сколько не утратило характерный для датчан уровень мастерства и чувство материала и смогло с успехом выйти на международную арену. Компания «Hay», являющаяся одним из заметных игроков на дизайнерской арене, не считает себя исключительно датской или скандинавской. Ее деятельность заключается в продвижении лучших дизайнеров по всему миру. «Помимо талантливых модельеров Скандинавия также славится глубокими традициями производства тканей, однако мы стараемся не ограничиваться территориальными рамками и работаем начинающими и знаменитыми дизайнерами по всему миру. – говорит Лене Шкипер Хансен, менеджер по коммуникациям в «Hay», – Для нас важен талант человека, а не то откуда он родом». Недавно запущенный в Лондоне подлейбл «Wrong for Hay», руководителем которого стал британский дизайнер Себастьян Ронг, прямое тому доказательство. Над проектом работает коллектив, состоящий как из молодых, так и уже знаменитых дизайнеров

самого широкого профиля. Изначальной задумкой была лишь разработка элементов освещения для одного из датских брендов, однако в последствии коллекцию решено было расширить, включив в нее изделия из керамики, текстиля, стекла и древесины. В этой эклектичной комбинации гармонично сочетаются керамика лондонского скульптора Яна Макинтайра и постмодернистские принты французского дизайнера Натали дю Паскье. Помимо простого и элегантного дизайна заметным преимуществом «Hay» является доступность. «Мы действительно верим в крепкие, искренние и открытые взаимоотношения с дизайнерами и поставщиками, а это значит, что мы можем создавать конкурентноспособные продукты по разумным ценам. – говорит Хансен, – Мы стараемся создать пространство, которое будет вдохновлять наших клиентов, оставляя у них хорошие впечатления». Текстильная компания Kvadrat настаивает на том, что сотрудничество и непредвзятость по отношению к дизайну по прежнему актуальны на современном рынке. Производители, объединенные сильным духом сотрудничества, постоянно бросают вызов эстетическим, техническим и практическим свойствам текстиля. «Мы регулярно сотрудничаем с лучшими из мировых талантов и создаем проекты, расширяющие границы производства и

применения текстиля», – говорит представитель Kvadrat. Результаты весьма и весьма впечатляют. В подготовке экспериментальной выставки Kvadrat, проводимой в рамках Миланской недели дизайна, приняли участие 22 дизайнера. Им удалось освежить и переосмыслить знаменитую ткань бренда «Divina», чья способность выражать яркие и удивительно насыщенные цвета обеспечивается за счет сложной многослойной структуры. Кушетки, представленные бельгийской маркой Muller Van Severen отличаются слоистой цветовой гаммой, напоминающей бутерброд, в то время как одеяла французского дизайнера François Dumas принимают форму табуретки если их правильно свернуть. Такие коллаборационные проекты, особенно с участием молодых и начинающих дизайнеров, открыли для Kvadrat новые горизонты. На сегодняçний день одним из самых крупных колаборационных проектов Kvadrat стала коллекция текстиля и предметов интерьера от бельгийского модельера Raf Simons. Благодаря этому сотрудничеству была создана серия из 11 новых тканей, на что у компании уçло около двух с половиной лет. Коллекция явилась прекрасной альтернативой скучной и однообразной материи, которую обычно используют для обивки мебели. Это не только заметно выделило Kvadrat на фоне других компаний, но и помогло продемонстрировать тот

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самый, как его определяет бренд, «дух новаторства и творчества, делающий значительный вклад в красочную культуру современности». Недавний ребрендинг дизайнерской студии Menu, знаменитой своими минималистичными формами и фирменным сочетанием красок, открыл новый подход к современной жизни. Постоянное развитие и разнообразие коллекций Menu, ориентированных на современного покупателя, обеспечивается за счет проведения многочисленных коллабораций. Стеллажи и вешалки для одежды отлично вписываются в текущие тенденции благодаря легким формам, идеальным для тех, кто живет в небольших квартирах и заодно желает сэкономить на доставке. Фирменный стиль Menu довольно универсальный, его нейтральная палитра придется по вкусу как мужчинам, так и женщинам. Сдержанные оттенки серого, серовато-зеленого и темно-розового будут отлично смотреться как дома, так и в офисе, а использование оригинальных материалов, таких как цемент, медь и кожа, подчеркнет тонкость и элегантность стиля. Нынешняя непредсказуемость датского дизайна может подарить немало приятных сюрпризов, а традиционное качество и мастерство в сочетании с новыми подходами непременно дает выигрышную комбинацию. hay.dk, kvadrat.dk, menu.as globalblue.com

50: New Day

Новый День Келд Миккельсен, основатель самого что ни на есть датского бренда Day Birger et Mikkelsen, решил придать ему новый облик, поводом чему послужили красоты итальянской природы. О своих планах он рассказывает Фионе Харкин-Вуд Келд Миккельсен в полной мере олицетворяет свободный и в то же время сдержанный стиль своего бренда. Его карибский загар, сверкающие голубые глаза и волосы с небольшой сединой дают понять, что ему частенько приходится путешествовать. Миккельсен живет между Копенгагеном, где он проводит три дня в неделю, и Италией. Здесь на берегу озера Комо раскинулась его роскошная вилла, которую сейчас реставрирует его спутница жизни Марианна Бренди. Основанный Миккельсеном в 1997 году бренд Day Birger et Mikkelsen всегда славился своим непринужденным стилем, сочетающим этнические элементы разных народов со скандинавским унисексом и винтажными деталями. Дизайнер называет этот стиль «современный цыган» и «смесь близкого и далекого». Нет сомнения в том, что Бренди, руководившая разработкой успешной серии Day Home, сможет привнести северо-европейскую свежесть и милый датский уют в их новую итальянскую виллу. Тем более что у нее уже был подобный опыт с усадьбой на карибском

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побережье. Странствующий образ жизни четы Миккельсен стал ключевым элементом их коллекции под названием «Day». В целом процесс дизайна для Миккельсена большое семейное дело. Так, на создание второй более молодежной серии «2nd Day» дизайнеров вдохновила их дочь Амалия. Последние события в жизни Миккельсена положительно сказались на облике бренда Day, который прошел через значительные обновления. После посещения итальянских городов и наблюдения за такими марками, как Etro, Gucci и Prada, а также за теми, кто их представляет, Миккельсен решил вернуть компанию к ее истокам. Он вспоминает, как возвращаясь из Италии сказал: «У нас будет больше детализации, красок, элементов ручной работы, принтов и изящных тканей. И все это должно соответствовать тенденциям завтрашнего дня». Миккельсен решил уйти от богемной эклектики, полюбившейся, как он считает, поклонникам летних музыкальных фестивалей, и уделять больше внимания современному образу. Он заявил своим сотрудникам: «Наша продукция должна стать привлекательной, вдохновляющей и стильной, но далекой от богемного шика», – такой образ у него ассоциируется с ежегодным датским фестивалем Roskilde. Успех более молодежной серии 2nd Day с ее удобными футболками и платьями-майками, смелыми принтами и укороченными

брюками в обтяжку, помог снять определенную долю нагрузки с основной коллекции женской одежды Day и сделал ее более специфической и узконаправленной. В нее вошли легкие платья, украшенные бисером, повседневные брюки с принтом, подходящие как для лета, так и межсезонья, стильные кожаные куртки, изделия из кашемира в теплых песочных тонах и топы в винтажном стиле из хлопка, шелка и кружевной ткани. «Как только 2nd Day приобрел популярность наша основная линия стала менее скованной, и мы смогли вернуть ее к истокам. Я очень горжусь тем, что мы приняли решение и сразу же получили позитивные отзывы», – говорит Миккельсен, который планирует расширить бренд за счет франшиз в Норвегии и четырех новых магазинов в Южной Африке. Он также намерен запустить молодежную мужскую коллекцию в рамках серии 2nd Day. Новая линия аксессуаров Home доступна во флагманском магазине бренда в Копенгагене на Pilestræde. Для нее отведен весь второй этаж. Коллекция Et. Et включает ювелирные украшения, обувь, сумки и, конечно, чемоданы. Вместительная сумка Gweneth, уже успевшая стать хитом, доступна в различных материалах и цветах. Она станет идеальным спутником для поездок или шоппинга. Чего же не хватает Миккельсену в Италии? «В Дании я привык ко многим традиционным вещам, таким как открытый

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сэндвич, например, а в Италии этого не найдешь». Он указывает на Café Victor – одно из его любимых заведений рядом с главным офисом Day на площади Kongens Nytorv. «Копенгаген становится очень приятным городом, отчасти благодаря моде, – поясняет он. – Поскольку Датская Неделя моды стала значительным событием для всего скандинавского региона, это привело к тому, что в город стало съезжаться больше вовлеченных в моду людей. В результате – рестораны стали лучше, и еда стала гораздо лучше. Это замечательный город». day.dk

58: Talent Show

Оригинальные и удивительно практичные датские бренды, блиставшие на Копенгагенской неделе моды, вот-вот возьмут мир штурмом, – считает Ханна Льюис Копенгагенская Неделя моды в этом сезоне прошла с особым размахом. Тысячи людей со всего мира съехались в столицу Дании, чтобы стать свидетелями одного из самых захватывающих событий модной индустрии. Блистательный талант пронизывал все работы, варьирующиеся от классики скандинавского минимализма до современного авангарда. Глядя на вереницы модных инсайдеров пробирающихся в потемках сквозь снежные сугробы к огромному складу на конце города, возникало ощущение, что вот-вот случится нечто globalblue.com

PHOTO: Marie MyrHøj jensen

Шоу Талантов

особенное. Так оно и было. Шоупоказ Henrik Vibskov осень-зима 2014-15 был одним из самых ожидаемых событий датской Недели моды. Модели шагали вокруг огромных вращающихся элементов инсталляции, готовой, казалось бы, отвести на себя все внимание от коллекций. Однако работы дизайнера настолько завораживали взор, что уже после нескольких выходов было понятно – Вибсков непревзойденный мастер своего дела. Местами забавная презентация включала все: от многослойного и разноцветного

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трикотажа с торчащими лоскутками до головных уборов в форме шлема, застегивающихся под подбородком. И не смотря на долю сюрреализма, коллекция все же производила впечатление доступной и практичной. Стине Гоюа (Stine Goya), выпускающая с 2006 года прекрасную готовую одежду под одноименной маркой, один из выдающихся дизайнеров датского происхождения. Ее показ осень-зима начался со снежнобелых и нежно-голубых тонов сочетающихся с абстрактными принтами, напоминающими работы кубистов XX века. Затем публике представили образы в комбинации черного и золотого, достаточно элегантные для вечерних прогулок и в меру беззаботные, как и все наряды дизайнера. Костюмы свободного покроя сочетались с короткими чулками и пляжной обувью из коллаборации с H2O. Складывается впечатление, что дизайнер отлично понимает потребности женщин, для которых она создает свои коллекции. Девушка Stine Goya образец ультрасовременной и ультрастильной культуры – девушка, которой хотят быть все. Хенрик Вибсков и Стине Гоюа уже успели наделать немало шума на международной арене. Именно таким брендам Копенгагенская Неделя моды обязана своим существованием и возможностью воспитывать новые поколения талантов. Популярность мероприятия уже давно вышла за пределы Дании и собирает под

своей крышей не только местных дизайнеров. Гренландский модельер Биби Хемниц (Bibi Chemnitz) вот уже три сезона подряд представляет здесь свои показы. Ее одноименный бренд, возникший из коллаборации с мультимедийным дизайнером Девидом Рогилдсом, привносит в скандинавскую культуру уличной одежды вдохновение «Зеленой страны». «Гренландия с ее великолепной природой и гостеприимными людьми незримо присутствует в каждой из наших коллекций. – поясняет Рогилдс, – В добавок к этому мы стараемся смешать все это с культурой городского стиля, подобно тому, как это происходит в хип-хоп музыке и баскетболе». Такие комбинации, пропущенные сквозь призму расслабленной копенгагенской атмосферы, рождают весьма оригинальный стиль, сочетающий спортивные элементы, минимализм и таинственную эстетику. Молодые бренды, подобно Bibi Chemnitz рождены и воспитаны в Копенгане, их креативность воспринимается на ура и все говорит о том, что настал их звездный час. Как никогда раньше Копенгаген находится в центре всеобщего внимания, а концепции датских подиумов все чаще находят воплощение в скандинавском стритстайле, приобретающем все большую весомость среди ценителей моды. Такое пристальное внимание играет особенное значение для дизайнера Майкела Тавадрос (Maikel Tawadros), который

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дебютировал со своей коллекцией в этом году. Родившийся и выросший в Дании дизайнер восхищается тем, насколько уникально Копенгаген относится к подобному модному событию, атмосферу которого он считает «весьма непринужденной, профессиональной и лишенной снобизма». Его коллекции находят вдохновение в самых невероятных областях, от природы и анатомии до романтизма различных эпох. Так дебютная серия вобрала в себя необыкновенный дух ренессанса. Идеи, стоящие за его работами, тесно перекликаются с этосом самой Капенгагенской Недели моды. «Основной смысл в том, чтобы мы выделялись из толпы, всегда имели независимое мнение и ценили свою индивидуальность». Что ж, шоу-показ Tawadros был самым что ни на есть «индивидуальным»: модели появились на подиуме в образе воинов с красивыми локонами, ниспадающими закрученными спиралями, а их лица были украшены белой окантовкой. Темно-зеленая палитра сменялась фиолетовой и черной, а меховые баски и большие варежки придавали особую насыщенность. Но что самое главное, Tawadros обладает особенным качеством, характерным лишь для скандинавских дизайнеров, а именно способностью создавать современную и актуальную одежду, которую с удовольствием носят аболютно все. henrikvibskov.com, stinegoya.com, bibichemnitz.com, maikeltawadros.com globalblue.com

96: When you shop the world, shop tax free Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с tax free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270,000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки tax free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите tax free форму Global Blue. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших пунктов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум 300DKK и сэкономьте до 19% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.

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美文翻译

44: Danish Design: A Fresh Future 丹麦设计与清新未来

系， 这意味着我们优质产品可以具有合理的价格，” Hansen说“我们努力为顾客打造良好的购物体验，并为他们打造具有灵感感受力的美好环境。” 纺织品设计公司Kvadrat 认为，在今天的现代市场上，对设计以及合作保持一

天才们层出不穷，丹麦年代悠远的设计产

种开放的心态是至关重要的。被强大的

业也随之日新月日，令人激越的前瞻性方

合作理念所驱使着，制造商们不断创新挑

案也风起云涌。Rachel Blunstone 给我

战，打造既有美学含义，又包含科技水平，

们描绘了那些如雷贯耳的品牌。

以及功能性的纺织品。“我们不断与这个世界上最富有创造力的天才们合作，以期

丹麦设计长期以来便与精心设计的产品

创建新项目并不断推动纺织品生产的应用

关联紧密，然而中世纪以来的现代家具术

极限。”Kvadrat 发言人这么介绍道。

语和冷静低调的设计风格正在逐渐改变。

结果无疑是可观。Kvadrat今年在米

设计新人们与丹麦制造传统分道扬镳，创

兰设计周的实验性展览吸引了 22 位设计

新产业逐步兴盛，带来遍地开花的全新前

师加盟，给Divina 织物带来了新鲜活力与

景。

全新表达，重新诠释了此品牌。  这种织物新兴商家依旧保持着丹麦的感性魅

颜色丰富，尝试大胆图像，通过折叠、分

力，并执着于高水平的精湛工艺。为了能在

层、卷曲的形状给观众目不暇接的视觉效

更大的国际舞台上展示，他们在材料上精

果。Belgian duo Muller Van Severen

挑细选。Hay,  作为设计领域的领军品牌，

的沙发床层叠着三明治般的色彩效果。法

从来不将自己局限为丹麦或是斯堪的纳维

国设计师François Dumas的毯子更为神

亚的品牌，而是目光远大，努力将一个全球

奇，卷起来便如一把椅子。与年轻设计师

品牌培养为最好国际设计师的摇篮。“斯

的合作，给Kvadrat带来了全新的受众。

堪的纳维亚有很多设计人才以及强大的制

比利时时装设计师Raf Simons 新近

造传统，但我们要放开视野，与这个世上

推出的首个纺织品和家居饰品是Kvadrat

新兴以及成熟的设计师们合作，” Hay公关

最大的合作项目。此品牌的突破之处在于

经理 Lene Skipper Hansen如此介绍：“

打造出11种新纺织物，经过两年半的时间

我们更关注于天赋本身而非国际营销。”

得以发展成型，并为那些平淡无奇的织物

H a y 最近推出了伦敦子品牌 — — Wrong，这个品牌由英国设计师 Sebastian Wrong操刀，散发着伦敦时尚气息。

带来了新视角。这等创新不仅让 Kvadrat

这公司汇集了一批来自于各领域各年龄

代文化。”

脱颖而出。也给品牌带来许多好评：“具有开拓性创新精神，激情打造丰富多彩的当

段的设计师。这个来自于丹麦品牌的轻系

设计制造商 Menu 最近的品牌形象

列，发展成为全系列产品：包括陶瓷、纺织

打造侧重于彩色设计签名上，揭示他们面

品、玻璃器皿和家具。混搭的审美风格贯

对现代生活的入世态度。Menu 稳步增长

穿了这个极具魅力的折中品牌——伦敦设

的新产品系列便是这数次合作的完美结

计师  Ian McIntyre所设计的陶瓷产品与

果，为新潮顾客所打造。货架以及服装架

后现代的纺织印花交相辉映，这印花由法

采用了当前流行的轻巧形式，这般轻巧不

国出生的米兰设计师 Nathalie Du Pas-

仅对于那些生活在狭小空间和期待低成

quier所设计，有着非凡的法式意式风情。除却简单设计是为卖点外，Hay的吸

本运送的人们而言极为完美，对于那些想

引力在于它价格上的亲和力。“我们一直

理想的。

在营造真实且忠诚的设计师与供应商的关

将大件物品运送回家的人们而言也是极其

Menu  的标志性风格男女咸宜，刻意

106 中性化的色彩备受男女消费者的青睐。中

带来的新鲜改变，将此品牌引导向一个新

性低调柔和的色彩甚是百搭。灰绿色、灰

纪元。那些在意大利逗留的时光和意大利

粉色可以与家装或办公室的任何角落相得

持久经典的品牌，如Etro, Gucci 和Prada

益彰。创意材料在一些产品上大量使用，

给他带来许多灵感，为此，他决意要回归

比如嵌有铜和皮革的装饰配件具有该品牌

他品牌的根基。当他从意大利回来，他激

标志性风格，低调却雅致。

动地说：“我们将会致力于细节和色彩，

这不可预测的丹麦设计展示出令人

我们将拥有手工制作的修饰、印花和装饰

激动的新方向——丹麦的工艺原理和质量

面料。我们不会让它看起来有如昨日般暗

完美融合，不断开拓新鲜领域，带来惊喜

沉，而将散发出明日的光彩。”

无限的新品。

hay.dk, kvadrat.dk, menu.as

Mikkelsen 想要摆脱这种波西米亚似的折中主义，这好比要把普通的夏季音乐节朝着激进现代的方向去发展。他对他

50: New Day

的团队说：“我们要将其加以修改，向着更

崭新时代

加性感、鼓舞人心和时尚方向发展——而非波西米亚似的奢华。”这种感觉好比丹

Keld Mikkelsen，作为Day Birger et Mikkelsen 的创始人，他来自意大利的灵

发着年轻活力。层叠的 T 恤，松垮的羊毛

感美学让这一经典丹麦品牌焕然一新。

裙、前卫的城市印花、裁剪紧身的裤子，使

麦年度Roskilde音乐节。2nd Day系列散

他告诉Fiona Harkin -Wood关于他的计

得mainDay品牌女装专注于最好的品质。

划。

这些包括精美的串珠、讨人喜欢容易穿着的裙装、无论夏天或是其他季节皆能穿着

Keld Mikkelsen 的个人色彩在这个时尚

印花休闲裤子、皮夹克光滑闪耀、羊绒针

品牌中极为明显，有着自由奔放的低调风

织衫有着朴质讨喜的色调、以及复古主义

格。加勒比的肤色，闪耀的地中海蓝眼睛，

风格的上衣、棉布和丝绸。

花白的头发，展示了他作为一个国际客的

“一旦 2 n d D a y 做的成功，那么主

生活。他的生活在两地之间穿梭，他在哥

线产品将不再紧张 — — 我们会回到根

本哈根通常一周居住三天。另外，在他意

基。我很自豪于我们的决定立即获得了回

大利科莫湖的新家，他的工作和生活伴侣

报。” M i k kelsen 说，他打算将此品牌经

Marianne Brandi正在装修。 Day Birger et Mikkelsen闻名于

销权扩张到挪威，并在南非建立四家分店。他还打算在2nd Day系列下打造年轻

她的悠闲造型、民族内涵和国际眼界，与

的男装品牌。这个品牌的当代家居系列在

中性化的斯堪的纳维亚剪裁和古董韵味

Pilestræde 哥本哈根旗舰店里依旧在售。

相互融合。自1997年成立以来，这个品牌

他还正打算把整个二楼打造成他快速扩

已在丹麦时装界广受认可。他将自己的风

张的新饰品Et系列。Et包括珠宝、鞋子和

格称之为“ 现代吉普赛 ”和 “远近结合”

包、以及旅行箱等。Gweneth shopper在

。鉴于她的品牌 Day Home line 非常成

材料与色彩上别出心裁，可作为理想的差

功，Brandi满怀信心地将她标志性的北欧

旅伴侣。

冷调与丹麦式的安逸装饰于他们意大利

若问 Mik kelsen 最想念家乡的何种

公馆里，正如她在加勒比海边的其他别墅

况味 — —“当我在丹麦的时候，我倾向去

一样。Mikkelsen 和Brandi的环球旅游方

寻求真正传统的东西，像那种我在意大利

式是他们生活的核心——这是他们家庭生

无法寻到的三明治。”他指着Victor 咖啡

活的模式，他们的女儿Amalie则认为这是

馆，他最为喜爱的咖啡馆。“因为时尚的兴

旗下年轻品牌2nd Day line的灵感来源。

盛，哥本哈根正在变为一个极好的城市。”

Mikkelsen说，他最近的生活方式所

他说：“丹麦时装周正在逐渐变成为斯堪

globalblue.com

107 的纳维亚的时装周，更多时尚达人纷至沓

高跟鞋阵阵作响，时尚人士们探索

来。在此时尚风潮中，餐厅品位日涨，食物

着黑暗里的崎岖小径，小心翼翼地穿过雪

愈加美味，这是一个极酷的城市。”

地，走向城市边缘的一个巨大仓库时，人

day.dk

人皆有预感，一场精彩演出即将开场。这

58: Talent Show

秀场，作为最热的一场走秀，模特们围绕

天才秀场

着旋转舞台前进，这极炫舞台效果使得其

当然是Henrik Vibskov 秋冬2014 -15年的

他的安静秀场相形见绌。Vibskov 的创作本次哥本哈根时装周所展示的丹麦品牌，

总是无意于平静。他的服饰吸引了所有人

原创、惊艳、耐穿，给时尚界带来了风起云

的关注，场场精彩绝伦的走秀证明了他总

涌的巨大风暴。Hannah Lewis带来前沿

处于在时尚之巅。无论是多层次色彩斑斓

报道。

的羊毛针织衫，还是头盔状系在下巴的帽子，都展示了一个有趣好玩、男女皆宜、轻

本届哥本哈根时装周比以往的阵势都大。

松可进的实验世界。

数千人聚合于丹麦首都，体验这时尚日程中最令人激动的场景。秀场所展示的经典

作为丹麦最富盛名的设计师，Stine Goya的同名品牌成衣自2006 年以来开始

前卫的北约简约主义，令人瞠目结舌，天才

生产。她秋冬系列以冰冷蓝色及清新的白

之用果然不可小觑。

色开场，秀场贯穿着来自立体主义的抽象印花。经典的黑与白，足够优雅，却有着不经意间漫不经心的风情。寥寥几刀的剪裁，搭配流行袜子和金色亮片，这便是与H2O 合作的经典之作。人们的深切感受在于这位设计师深谙女人心理。Stine Goya女孩是极酷拉风范儿，却并非傲然排外，这是每个人都想成为的女孩模样。

Henrik Vibskov 和 Stine Goya 已在国际上小有声名，这样的品牌给哥本哈根时装周带来无限魅力，并给新兴人才以成长及培养的空间。哥本哈根时装周声名显赫，吸引四方人才，并非只有丹麦设计师才将此城市视为家园。设计师 Bibi Chemnitz来自格陵兰岛，她的倩影穿梭于三个时装周上。她与多媒体设计师David Røgilds 合作，其灵感不仅来自格陵兰岛的无限魅力，还来自于斯堪的纳维亚的街头穿着。“格陵兰岛有着令人叹为观止的自然奇观和温暖友善的居民，这些都在我们每一季的作品里展 PHOTO: Henning Bagger

现出来” R ø g i l d s 解释说：“我们试着将城市街道文化与嘻哈音乐及篮球相混合” ，透过镜头看哥本哈根，有着轻松随意的感觉。这感觉使得运动服装也带有神秘美感。年轻品牌如 Bibi Chemnitz 在哥本

108 哈根比受到极大培养和鼓励，他们的创造

务，然后遵循我们简单的退税过程：

力在此得以鼓舞，这是设计的黄金时代。

1. 消费购物

世界的目光都聚焦于这个城市，设计理念

无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税

不仅来自于丹麦走秀还来自于街头风格，

表格（Global Blue Tax Free Form），并

让斯堪的纳维亚的风格和影响力依旧得以

记得保存小票。

引领风潮。

2. 申请退税

丹麦设计师Maikel Tawadros对此

当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市

风潮尤为激动。他在本次发布会上首次亮

的海关柜台请他们在您的退税表格上盖

相。这位生于斯长于斯的设计师，将这个

章，然后再到我们的客服柜台领取您的

城市独一无二的风格带入了本次发布会。

退税款。

这种风格有自身结构，各色各物具有专业

联系方式：

精神却毫不带着俗气。他的作品带着缤纷

月。他描述了哥本哈根藏品背后的精神：“

taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费300DKK并且节约高达购买价格19%的税。请注意：最终退款将包含增

这是关于如何表达自我且如何成为一个独

值税总额，但是要扣除管理手续费。部分

立的人，这是关于如何为自我打造处所表

机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取现金

达自我人格的故事。”

退税手续费。

多彩的灵感，首秀从文艺复兴中汲取灵感，自然却有解构意味，浪漫又包揽了流金岁

Tawadros的秀场极其个性化，勇士模样的模特头顶着蜷曲发型，头发垂于脸

日本語翻訳

间，用白色笔触调绘出边框。生机勃勃的绿色、紫色、以及深黑色，给人意想不到的视觉冲击，比如那些毛茸茸的短裙和超

44: Danish Design: A Fresh Future

大号的针织衫，真是极其美妙。更重要的

デンマークのデザイン：新たな未来

是，Tawadros展现了斯堪的纳维亚的设计师天生具有的那种能力：创造新鲜、时

新たな才能が、すばらしく未来志向のアプ

尚前沿衣饰，让人迫不及待想把当季潮服

ローチで伝統あるデンマークのデザイン

穿回家。

産業を変貌させつつある。レイチェル・ブ

henrikvibskov.com, stinegoya.com, bibichemnitz.com, maikeltawadros.com

ランストーンが知っておきたい名前を紹介する。昔からデンマークのデザインといえば巧妙

96: When you shop the world, shop tax free

に作られた製品を連想するのが常だった

畅购全球，尊享退税

た控えめのデザインというイメージが変わ

が、ミッドセンチュリー・モダンの落ち着いりつつある。新たな人材がデンマーク製

当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商

造業の伝統から離れ、業界の表舞台に現

店消费时，环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物

れて、フレッシュで未来志向のアプローチ

退税服务（Tax Free Shopping）为您节

を提案しているのだ。

约购物开销。

こうした新種のメーカーは、デンマー

每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联

クの感性（高レベルの職人技を駆使し、

（Global Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错

素材に対して誠実な物作りへのこだわり）

过？您要做的只是寻找蓝星标志或者问询

は持ち続けつつ、幅広く国際的に事業展

商家是否提供环球蓝联（Global Blue）服

開している。今やデザイン界の大手となっ

globalblue.com

109 たヘイは、自社や自社のブランドを「デン

が肝要だという。同社は強い協力精神に

マークの」とも「スカンジナビアの」とも称

基づいて、自社製テキスタイルの美的、技

せず、世界一流のデザイナーを育てる国際

術的、機能的特性を絶えず問い直してい

エージェントと位置付けている。「スカンジ

る。同社広報担当者いわく、「当社では世

ナビアには才能あるデザイナーが多く、製

界一流のクリエーターと常にコラボレーシ

造業もしっかりした伝統がありますが、当

ョンして、テキスタイルの製造と用途の限

社では世界中から新進デザイナーや有名

界を押し広げるプロジェクトを創出してい

デザイナーを起用しています」と、同社広

ます。」

報マネージャーのリーネ・スキバ・ハンセン

その結果はあっぱれだ。クヴァドラ

はいう。「出身国よりも才能を重視してい

が今年度のミラノデザインウィークで行っ

るのです。」

た実験的な展示会では、22人のデザイナ

その証拠が最近発表された「ロング・

ーが同ブランドお馴染みのディヴィナの

フォー・ヘイ（Wrong for Hay）」で、ロ

生地を刷新し再解釈した作品が披露され

ンドンを拠点とするこのサブレーベルは、

た。ディヴィナはフェルトのように豊かな

英国人デザイナーのセバスチャン・ロング

色彩表現が可能で、折り畳んだり、重ねた

がディレクターを務める。幅広い分野から

り、巻いたりすることによって大胆で絵画

若手デザイナーと実績あるデザイナーの双

的な形作りができる。ベルギー人デュオの

方を集めたベンチャーだ。ヘイ用に一連の

ミュラー・ヴァン・セーヴェレンが制作し

照明を開発するという元々の発想から広

たデイベッドは色の層をサンドイッチのよ

がって、セラミック、テキスタイル、ガラス製

うに重ねた構造で、フランス人デザイナー

品、家具を含む総合的なコレクションにな

のフランソワ・デュマのブランケットは巻き

っている。この魅力的な折衷型コレクショ

上げれば座席の形になる。こうしたコラボ

ンには、「ミックス・アンド・マッチ（種々様

レーションプロジェクト、特に若手新進デ

々な物の組み合わせ）」の美感が一貫して

ザイナーとのコラボレーションによって、ク

ある。ロンドンを本拠とするイアン・マッキ

ヴァドラは新たな顧客層を開拓している。

ンタイアの上品な陶器があるかと思えば、

このほど発売になったベルギー人フ

その隣にはフランス生まれでミラノを拠点

ァッションデザイナー、ラフ・シモンズの初

とするデザイナー、ナタリー・ドゥ・パスク

のテキスタイル＆ホームアクセサリーコレク

エのポストモダンなプリント生地があると

ションは、同社がこれまで手掛けた中で

いった具合だ。

最大のコラボレーションプロジェクトだ。

ヘイの幅広い人気の秘密は、シンプ

このファッションデザイナーとのパートナ

ルなデザインはもとより、手頃な値段にあ

ーシップでは、11種の新しいファブリック

る。「当社では、デザイナーや仕入先と強

から成り、完成に二年半かかった商品レ

く誠実で忠実な関係を築くことを大事にし

ンジによってブランドの新たな方向性を打

ています。そうした関係があるからこそ、よ

ち出し、室内装飾材料にありがちな単調

い品を手頃な価格でお届けできるのです」

な織布に代わる新鮮な素材を提供してい

と、ハンセンはいう。「消費者に喜んでい

る。これは、クヴァドラを際立った存在に

ただけるお買い物体験を創出し、インスピ

すると同時に、同ブランドが「パイオニア

レーションを感じていただけるような世界

精神と創造性」と呼ぶ、彩豊かな現代文

を創るべく、努力しています。」

化に寄与したいという情熱も表している。

テキスタイルデザイン会社のクヴァド

デザイン会社メニューの最近のブラ

ラは、現在の現代デザイン市場で今日性

ンド再構築では、ミニマルな形と同社独特

を持ち続けるには、デザインや協力関係

の色使いに重点を置き、モダンライフに対

について心を閉ざさず柔軟性を持つこと

する今風の考え方を体現している。着実に

110 拡大するメニューのコレクションは、複数の新たなコラボレーションの結果であり、現代の消費者を念頭にデザインされている。棚や洋服掛けは軽い形態を求める現在のトレンドを反映し、狭いスペースでの暮らしにピッタリで運送費も安くつく。大きな品を買う人には理想的だ。メニューの特徴的なスタイルはやや両性的で、意図的に中間色を選んでいるため男女を問わず消費者に人気がある。ソフトグレー、セージグリーン、ダスキーピンクといった淡く抑えた色合いは、家庭やオフィスのあらゆる空間に合う。また、銅と革で仕上げたコンクリート製の装飾品など、いくつかの製品は素材使いがおもしろく、控えめで洗練された独特のスタイルを創り出している。現在、デンマークのデザイン界は先が読めず、それが背景となって新たにエキサイティングな方向性がいくつか生み出されている。職人の技と品質を重んじるデンマーク気質に、新鮮なアプローチが新たに加われば、成功は間違いない。 PHOTO: PEPECPH.COM

hay.dk、kvadrat.dk、 menu.as

50: New Day 新生デイデイ・ビルゲール・エ・ミッケルセンの創業

来している。この堂々たるイタリアンヴィラ

者ケルド・ミッケルセンは、このいかにもデ

は、公私ともにパートナーであるマリアン

ンマークらしいブランドの刷新に向けて、

ヌ・ブランディが現在改装中だ。

イタリアからインスピレーションを得た。フ

デイ・ビルゲール・エ・ミッケルセン

ィオナ・ハーキンウッドが彼の計画につい

は、両性的なスカンジナビア流の仕立て

て聞いた。

とヴィンテージ感に海外旅行で得た民族的な影響を加味したくつろいだスタイルで

ケルド・ミッケルセンは、自分のブランドの

知られる。このブランドは1997年の創設

自由な精神と控えめのスタイルを象徴して

以来、いかにもデンマーク的なファッショ

いる。カリブ海の陽ざしで焼けた肌、地中

ン用語を生み出して来た。ミッケルセンの

海の青色にきらめく瞳、胡麻塩の髪から

いう「モダンジプシー」や「近と遠のミック

世界中を仕事で飛び回っている彼のライ

ス」だ。同ブランドの「デイ・ホーム」ライン

フスタイルがうかがえる。ミッケルセンは

の成功を指揮したブランディはきっと、彼

週のうち3日を過ごすコペンハーゲンと、イ

女独特のクールな北欧スタイルとデンマー

タリアのコモ湖畔にある新居との間を行き

クの「hygge（くつろぎ感）」のミックスを、

globalblue.com

111 カリブ海の別荘を改装した時と同じよう

「セカンド・デイの成功でたちまちメ

にイタリアのヴィラにも持ち込むに違いな

インの商品ラインにあった何か、緊張感が

い。デイブランドの核心にあるのは、ミッケ

解き放たれ、ルーツに帰ることができまし

ルセンとブランディの世界を股にかけたラ

た。決断をして、それがすぐに報われたと

イフスタイルであり、また、娘のアマリーが

言えるのを誇りに感じています」と、ミッケ

若年層向け「セカンド・デイ」ラインのイン

ルセンはいう。同ブランドでは、ノルウェ

スピレーションとなったと語るなど、彼らの

ーでのフランチャイズ店舗数増加と、南ア

ビジネスは家族に大いに関わっている。

フリカにおける新店舗 4 軒のオープンによ

最近のライフスタイルの変化が、デイ

る拡大を計画している。また、「セカンド・

ブランドを新時代に向けて刷新するきっ

デイ」レンジの一環として若年男性向けの

かけになったとミッケルセンはいう。イタリ

コレクションも発売する計画だ。同ブラン

アの都市でエトロ、グッチ、プラダといった

ドの現代的な「ホーム」レンジは、コペン

典型的イタリアブランドに囲まれて過ごし

ハーゲンのピレシュトレーゼ通りにある旗

た彼は、それらブランドの妥協を知らない

艦店で置いている。ミッケルセンはつい先

個性へのこだわりを見て触発され、自分の

ごろ、同店の二階部分全体を、急拡大す

ブランドのルーツに立ち戻ろうと考えた。

る新しいアクセサリーレンジ「Et」専用に

イタリアから帰って、「ディテールと色を使

すると決めた。Etはジュエリー、フットウェ

おう。手作りの雰囲気をもたせたり、プリ

ア、バッグ、そしてもちろんスーツケースな

ントや装飾的な生地を使おう。そうしなが

ど。大ヒット商品のグェネス（Gweneth）

ら、古臭い感じのものではなくて、新鮮味

ショッピングバッグも、より豊富な素材や

のあるものを作っていこう」と話したのを

色が揃っている。旅のお供として理想的

覚えている。

だ。

ミッケルセンは、夏の音楽祭を思わせ

ミッケルセンが故国を離れた時に、無くて

るボヘミアン風の折衷スタイルから離れて

寂しいと感じるものは何だろう。「デンマ

もっと現代的なルックスにしたいと思い、

ークにいる時は、やはりオープンサンドイ

チームに言った。「すっきりさせて、高級ボ

ッチのような伝統的なものに手が伸びま

ヘミアンでなく、セクシーで胸の躍るような

すね。イタリアでは食べられませんから。

スタイリッシュなものと作ろう」と。いわば、

」たとえばカフェ・ヴィクター。デイ本社近

デンマークで毎年行われるロスキルダ・ミ

くのとびきり洒落たコンゲンス・ニュート

ュージックフェスティバルのようなルックス

ー広場にあるお気に入りの場所だ。「コペ

だという。若年層向けの普及版レンジ「セ

ンハーゲンはとてもいい都市になりつつあ

カンド・デイ」は、重ね着しやすいTシャツ

ります。その理由の一つがファッションで

やゆったりしたジャージーワンピース、大

す」と彼はいう。「ここで開催されるデンマ

胆で都会的なプリント、七分丈のスキニー

ークのファッションウィークが北欧で比較

パンツといった品揃えで、その成功のおか

的規模の大きなものになったため、多くの

げで、メインの「デイ」ウーマンズウェアは

ファッション関係者が訪れるようになりま

同ブランドが得意とするスタイルに立ち返

した。そうしたファッション関係者を相手

ることができた。美しいビーズが施され見

にするレストランも洒落た店になり、食べ

栄えがよく着やすいドレス、夏だけでなく

物もよくなるのです。コペンハーゲンは素

間のシーズンにも着れるプリントのカジュ

敵な街ですよ。」

アルパンツ、お洒落な革ジャケット、顔映り

day.dk

のいい落ち着いた色合いのお馴染みカシミアニット、ヴィンテージにヒントを得たコットンとシルクのレースのトップなどだ。

112

58: Talent Show

の一つだ。秋冬ショーの幕開けは、アイシ

タレントショー

ーブルーと凛とした白に、キュービズムからインスピレーションを得た抽象プリント

コペンハーゲン・ファッションウィークで

を交えたルックス。その後、古典的な黒と

展示された独創性がありながら十二分に

ゴールドのルックスが登場したが、それら

着られるデンマークのブランドが、世界を

はイブニングウェアとして着るのに十分な

席巻している。ハンナ・ルイスがレポート

優雅さを醸しつつ、ゴヤ作品に特有の無

する。

頓着な雰囲気を湛えていた。ゆったりした仕立ての服にポップなソックス、H2Oとの

今シーズンのコペンハーゲン・ファッショ

コラボレーションの一つである金色のツッ

ンウィークは、これまでで最大の規模と

カケの組み合わせ。ゴヤが対象とする女性

なった。デンマークの首都コペンハーゲン

をいかによく理解しているかがわかるだろ

には、ファッションの暦上最もエキサイテ

う。スティーヌ・ゴヤの女性像は、超クール

ィングな行事の一つに急速になりつつあ

で超スタイリッシュでありつつも、よそよそ

るこのイベントを見ようと、数千人が押し

しさが無く親しめるタイプ。つまり、誰もが

掛けた。アヴァンギャルドの極みからスカ

なりたいと思う女性だ。

ンジナビア伝統のミニマリズムまで、披露

ヘンリック・ヴィブスコフとスティーヌ・

された作品には紛れもなく才能が光って

ゴヤは既に世界的に有名で、こうしたブラ

いた。

ンドのおかげでコペンハーゲン・ファッシ

雪の中で足元を選びながら心許ない

ョンウィークの正統性が高まり、新進デザ

道をハイヒールで歩き、市の外れにある

イナーの育成が可能になっている。コペン

巨大倉庫へと向かうファッション関係者

ハーゲン・ファッションウィークはこの地

には、何か特別なことが起ころうとして

域では名高く、ここを拠点に選ぶデザイナ

いるという予感があった。そして、その予

ーはデンマーク人だけではない。グリーン

感は的中。今ファッションウィークの目

ランド出身のデザイナー、ビビ・ケムニッツ

玉中の目玉、ヘンリック・ヴィブスコフの

は、自名ブランドを3シーズン続けてここで

2014 / 2015 年秋冬物ファッションショー

発表している。マルチメディアデザイナーの

の幕開けだ。モデルたちが歩いた回廊の

デヴィッド・ルーギルスと共同で創設した

真ん中には、巨大な回転式インスタレー

彼女のレーベルは、ケムニッツの故郷から

ションアート。どちらかというと地味なコレ

得た発想をスカンジナビアのストリートウ

クションをともすれば圧倒しかねない設え

ェアの世界に持ち込んでいる。

だが、ヴィブスコフは決して寡黙なタイプ

「素晴らしい自然があり心温かな人々

ではない。次々繰り出されるルックスは彼

がいるグリーンランドは、毎シーズン、私た

がトップデザイナーである所以をまざまざ

ちのコレクションにしっかり反映されてい

と見せつけ、観客はランウェイ上の服を食

ます」とルーギルス。「それと、ヒップホッ

い入るように見ていた。所々からウールの

プ音楽やバスケットボールに見られる都会

毛糸が吹き出た多彩色のレイヤードニット

のストリート文化とを融合させようとしてい

から、顎下で止めるヘルメットのような帽

るのです。」そうしたインプットを穏やかで

子まで、遊び心に溢れユニセックス性の強

くつろいだコペンハーゲンの視点を通して

い実験的な世界でありながらも、何となく

見た結果生まれたのが、ほぼ神秘的とい

着れそうな気がするコレクションだった。

っていい美感が光るスポーティでミニマル

スティーヌ・ゴヤが 2006 年から同名レ

な形だ。

ーベルで作っている美しい既製服も、とび

コペンハーゲンではビビ・ケムニッツの

きりすばらしいデンマーク発ファッション

ような若手のブランドが育てられ、奨励さ

globalblue.com

113 れている。彼らの創造性が称賛されるのだ。そして、デザイナーにとってこれほどの

96: When you shop the world, shop tax free

好機はない。世界がコペンハーゲンに注目

海外でのお買い物が免税に

している今、デンマークのキャットウォークから発信されるコンセプトがストリート

グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制

スタイルに反映され、スカンジナビアンス

度をご利用いただきますと、世界各地の有

タイルはファッション通の間で依然大きな

名ショッピング街にある27 万軒を超える

存在感と影響力を持っている。

加盟店でのお買い物がお得になります。

こうした注目は、今シーズンデビューし

年間 2600万人が楽しまれているグローバ

たデザイナー、マイケル・タワドロスにとっ

ル・ブルーの免税ショッピングを、貴方も

ては特にエキサイティングに違いない。生

ぜひご利用ください。手続きは簡単。ま

まれも育ちもデンマークという彼は、ファ

ず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探します。星

ッションイベントに対するこの街のユニー

が見当たらなければ、店員に「グローバ

クなアプローチを讃える。「肩の力を抜い

ル・ブルー？」とお尋ねください。あとは、

ていつつ体系だった取り組みで、全てがプ

次のステップを踏むだけです。

ロの仕事でありながら気取ったところがない」のだという。タワドロスのコレクション

1.お買い物

は自然や人体の構造、各時代のロマンスな

お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブ

ど様々なものから発想を得ているが、今回

ルーの免税書類（タックスフリー・フォー

のデビューコレクションはルネッサンス精

ム）を受け取ってください。レシートを保

神がインスピレーションになっている。こ

管するのも忘れずに。

のコレクションの精神を説明してくれた彼の言葉は、まるでコペンハーゲン・ファッシ

2.還付請求

ョンウィークで奨励している精神の説明と

ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関でレシ

いっていい。「他から際立ち、独立した人

ートに承認印を押してもらってから、グロ

間であること。自分の人間性や個性を表

ーバル・ブルーのカスタマーサービスデス

現する余地をつくることです。」

クで払い戻しを受けます。

タワドロスのショーは確かに個性的だった。モデルは太ブラシで白く縁取った顔

お問い合わせ：

の回りにざんばら髪が垂れたサムライのよ

ムや特大ミトンなど意外性のあるタッチで

taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 300DKK 以上のお買い物をすれば、購入価格の最高19％の払い戻しが受けられ

深みを加えていた。最も大事なのは、タワ

ます。最終的な払い戻し額は、付加価値税

ドロスがスカンジナビアのデザイナーに固

（VAT）合計から事務手数料を差し引い

有ともいえる特質、つまり消費者が着たが

た金額となりますので、その旨ご了承くだ

るフレッシュで流行に敏感な服を創る能力

さい。

を実証してみせたことだ。

戻しをご希望の場合は、取り扱い手数料

henrikvibskov.com、 stinegoya.com、 bibichemnitz.com、 maikeltawadros.com

が免税書類ごとに課されます。

うな風貌。雰囲気のあるグリーンやパープル、黒といった色彩の服に、毛皮のペプラ

一部の空港で現金での即時払い

114 | P RO D U C T S

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PHOTO: HEIDI LERKENFELDT

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