SHOP Frankfurt AW14

If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind.

For more than 135 years, the name

customers express when they purchase

“WEMPE” has stood for the utmost

jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of

expertise in the art of making jewellery

jewellery uphold international standards

and timepieces. We offer a unique

and are born in our own atelier. This is

selection of valuable treasures at 28

true for unusual one-of-a-kind items

Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are

as well as for our diverse assortment

especially proud because for more than

of classic pieces with brilliant-cut

a century we have been privileged to

diamonds. And a century-old friendship

contribute to the grand feelings that our

links us with the world’s foremost watch

We accept all credit cards.

www.wempe.com

manufactories. You will find WEMPE

will always be available to meet your

showrooms at the loveliest locations

individual needs. We cordially invite you

in great European metropolises, New

to discover an abundance of interesting

York City and in Beijing. Each shop also

new items and exclusive special models

offers service or advice whenever you

at one of Europe’s leading jewellers. We

require it, so you can be certain that we

look forward to your visit!

An der Hauptwache 7, T +49.(0)69.200 11 Goethestraße 10, T +49.(0)69.20 97 47 47

Airport Frankfurt, Terminal 1, Level 3, Gates Z, T +49.(0)69.69 02 71 61 Jaeger-LeCoultre Boutique Goethestraße 4-8, T +49.(0)69.928 83 08-0 HAMBURG LONDON PARIS NEW YORK

Willkommen bei Bucherer, ein Schweizer Traditionsunternehmen und eines der führenden Häuser für Uhren und Schmuck in Europa. In Frankfurts größtem Juweliergeschäft erwartet Sie eine überwältigenden Auswahl an LuxusUhrenmarken und exquisiter Schmuckstücke, ein erstklassiger Service sowie eine eigene Rolex und Patek Philippe Boutique.

Welcome to Bucherer, a Swiss company with a long tradition and one of the leading establishments for watches and jewellery in Europe. In Frankfurt’s largest jewellery store, you will find an overwhelming selection of luxury watch brands and exquisite jewellery, as well as first-class service and an in-shop Rolex and Patek Philippe Boutique.

und viele mehr and many more

Frankfurt Kaiserstraße 1

Patek Philippe is available at the following Bucherer stores: Berlin Friedrichstraße 179, Frankfurt Kaiserstraße 1 and Munich Residenzstraße 11.

WATCHES JEWELRY GEMS Berlin Dusseldorf Frankfurt Hamburg Munich Nuremberg | Basel Bern Davos Geneva Interlaken Lausanne Locarno Lugano Lucerne St. Gallen St. Moritz Zermatt Zurich | Vienna | Paris | bucherer.com

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CHRIST JEWELLERS AND WATCHMAKERS IN FRANKFURT. Hessen Center ¡ Nordwestzentrum ¡ Zeil 77 ¡ 8x International Airport Frankfurt ¡ Skyline Plaza CHRIST Juweliere und Uhrmacher seit 1863 GmbH, Kabeler StraĂ&#x;e 4, 58099 Hagen | CHRIST service line 0180/5 32 10 98 (â‚Ź 0.14/min. from a German landline; mobile phone prices max. â‚Ź 0.42/min.) | *price on request | ** white, small internal characteristics, good cut

Only at CHRIST CHRIST DIAMONDS Ring* 585/- gold with rhodolites and brilliant cut diamonds, together approx. 0.15 ct.**

Passion. Made in Germany.

The CHRIST DIAMONDS Collection.

Experience diamonds in a whole new way at over 200 CHRIST specialty stores throughout Germany.

www.christ.de

Frankfurt, Zeil Karstadt Warenhaus GmbH | Theodor-Althoff-StraĂ&#x;e 2 | 45133 Essen

Fashion, Lifestyle & more Our branches in excellent downtown locations of most important German cities provide shoppers with a modern and comfortable environment which makes shopping an experience.

Not only strong brands but also our outstanding advisory service and innovative events attract throngs of buyers.

Enjoy your next shopping spree on the discovery journey through our store Karstadt Frankfurt.

Beauty and more … visit Europe’s No. 1 perfumery!

W E W I L L B E P L E A S E D TO W E LC O M E YO U TO T H E D O U G L A S W O R L D O F B E AU T Y I N F R A N K F U RT: • Zeil 100, 069 - 133869150 • Kaiserstr. 1, 069 - 284969

Discover a perfumery tradition that dates back more than 100 years, and enjoy Europe’s largest assortment of leading beauty brands – from exclusive fragrances and luxury skin care to trendy color cosmetic products and fashion accessories.

With 1,200 perfumeries in 18 countries, we are dedicated to providing excellent services and personal consultation to our customers.

14

Editor’s Letter Athens and Thessaloniki Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Buenos Aires Cologne Copenhagen Cyprus

Чехия Düsseldorf Estonia Frankfurt French Riviera

‫دليل ألانيا‬

德国指南

Welcome to Frankfurt Even if you’ve visited Frankfurt before, you may be surprised to discover the city’s Porzellan Museum, which showcases German’s rich history as a world leader in ceramics – fnd out more in our feature on page 54.

In this edition, we also profle German fashion’s eco-friendly yet elegant pioneers (page 42) and reveal the Oska brand’s refreshing take on womenswear (page 48).

SHOP is part of Global Blue, a Tax Free Shopping market leader, and publishes guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia.

Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you everything you need to know about your chosen destination: the top global brands, the local favourites you shouldn’t miss and the essential stores, boutiques, restaurants and places to visit.

For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. It’s even easier to claim your tax savings with the Global Blue Card – signing up is free and you can fnd all the details on the website. And don’t forget to download the Global Blue mobile app!

With this edition of SHOP, the Global Blue app and your Global Blue Card, you’re ready to enjoy the best that Frankfurt has to ofer.

Emma Cheevers @环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

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@GlobalBlue

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Gothenburg Hamburg Hanover Helsinki Area Holland Iceland Istanbul Italy Lake Saimaa Lebanon London Madrid Milan Munich Naples Nuremburg Oslo Paris Portugal Prague Riga Rimini and Riccione Rome Seoul Singapore Stockholm Stuttgart Switzerland Tokyo Vienna Vilnius /globalblue

ILLUSTRATION: PING ZHU

Руководство Германия

oyster perpetual datejust l ady 31

FOS SIL FL AGSHIP STORE AN DER HAUPT WACHE / ZEIL 123 FOS SIL STORES FR ANKFURT SK YLINE PL A Z A 路 FR ANKFURT AIRP ORT WWW.FOS SIL .COM

fashion | lifestyle | beauty FRANKFURT AN DER HAUPTWACHE

Shopping at its best!

Located at the ZEIL, one of Europe’s famous shopping streets, GALERIA Kaufhof offers you a fullservice package: excellent products, capable staff and diverse amenities guarantee you an unforgettable experience. From brand-name fashion items to jewellery, from household goods to accessories – our fascinating shops and themed areas provide a huge variety of international products and our restaurant “Leonhard’s” has an unique view over Frankfurt’s skyline. The traditional department store chain celebrates 2014 its 135th anniversary with special offers and events. If you come from a country outside the EU, you can even enjoy tax-free shopping at GALERIA Kaufhof!

Please scan the QR-code with your smartphone to get more information about your GALERIA store Frankfurt, An der Hauptwache.

GALERIA Kaufhof... ... makes you fall in love with Germany

GALERIA Kaufhof GmbH, Leonhard-Tietz-Str. 1, 50676 Cologne

www.galeria.de

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Contributors

ILLUSTRATION: TANg ChIew LINg

Tang Chiew Ling Graphic designer and artist Tang Chiew Ling created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Frankfurt. Her beautiful illustration uses real leaves to make the shape of a sleek and stylish dress, inspired by our feature on page 42 about Germany’s latest eco-fashions. Tang Chiew Ling is based in Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia.

Read more about our illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

Gwyneth Holland Journalist and trend consultant Gwyneth Holland works with leading brands and agencies to discover the future as well as writing for global fashion and trend publications. She is a founder of new fashion trends service Unique Style Platform. globalblue.com

Mónica Goya Journalist and photographer Mónica Goya is a picture assistant at SHOP, helping to source images from around the world. When not at work, she loves hiking and sharing meals and conversation with family and friends.

Josh Sims Freelance journalist and editor Josh Sims contributes to publications that include the Financial Times, Independent, Observer, Wallpaper and Esquire. His latest book, 50 Years of British Style Culture, was published in 2012.

22

Shop Floor E DI TOR I A L Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Managing editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Tang Chiew Ling Contributors Gwyneth Holland, Maria Kirchen-Hill, Josh Sims Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Ruairidh Pritchard Features editor Stephen Doig City guide and lifestyle editor Verity Hogan Fashion and news editor Dominique Fenn Assistant fashion and market editor Ximena Daneri Assistant fashion and news editors Hannah Lewis, Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion assistant Gemma Latham Editorial intern Sammy Ha Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Dorcas Brown Assistant picture editors Kirsty Andrews, Sarah Beyts Picture assistants Grace Bird, Mónica Goya Picture intern Rubi Ali Artworker Adam Dhaliwal Artworking assistants Dionne Hélène, Ai-Lun Huang, Milkha Lala Artworking intern Hibba Sayeed

PU BL ISH I NG Publisher James Morris

Online editor Kirsty Welsh Online editorial assistant Katie Ramsingh Online assistants Marina Nelson, Emily Scrivener Commercial editor Justine Clifton Commercial artworking assistant Aaron Carline Commercial artworking interns George Trinick, Ellie Vigors Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese contributing editor Quingya He Chinese translators Xun Ji, Mengjiao Qu, Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi, Yi Zhang Chinese interns Yunhan Fang, Tiantian Liu Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok Associate Russian editor Daria Orlova Assistant Russian editor Kira Savchenko Russian editorial assistant Linda Blank Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov

Digital manager Eamonn Leacy Digital production manager Funmi Paul-Taiwo Online commercial editor Sally Ashley-Cound Project manager Bina Summan International digital marketing executive Nina Kobalia Digital marketing executive Wenhan Zhang Digital production assistant Paul Lecoanet Advertising and partnership manager Riccardo Canini Distribution and partnership manager Claudia Suárez Print Dane Consultancy GLOBA L BLU E GER M A N Y Vice president sales Central Europe Thorsten Lind Country manager Jörg Schönbeck Marketing sales manager Michael Mauerhoff Sales manager Pino Dufter Marketing specialist Mareike Dieckmann Global Blue Germany, Vogelsanger Weg 38, 40470 Düsseldorf, info.de@globalblue.com Regional tourist office Tourismus+Congress, Kaiserstrasse 56, 60329 Frankfurt am Main, +49 (0)69 2123 8800, frankfurt-tourismus.de SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH - 1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2014 Global Blue

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Contents p.42

P rod u c t s 30 Check Out sHoP selects a standout piece from Frankfurt this season 32 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories N ews 34 Shop Window one store not to be missed in Frankfurt 36 News seasonal updates on shops, services and new products 40 In Store … … with Marc-Jens Biegel in his fagship Frankfurt jewellery store Above: Isabell de Hillerin autumn/winter 2014/15

F e at u r e s 42 Cover Story: Sustainable Style Germany’s well-established green scene continues to encourage fashion design that combines elegance with an eco-friendly attitude, reports Gwyneth Holland 48 The New Cool the oska label has gone from strength to strength thanks to its refreshing approach to womenswear. Josh sims talks to founder Helmut Bayer about his recipe for success 54 Breaking The Mould German porcelain has always been innovative and the country’s top brands remain world leaders, as stephen doig discovers

Montblanc Star Classique and Hugh Jackman Crafted for New Heights Manufactured in Switzerland, the Star Classique Automatic, with its slim 8.9 mm 18 K red gold case and its ergonomically shaped case back, is a ďŹ ne companion for an elegant appearance.

Visit and shop at Montblanc.com

Munich, Berlin, Cologne, Hamburg, DĂźsseldorf, Frankfurt, Stuttgart, Hannover

26

Contents

E x pE r i E ncE 60 Table Talk Frankfurt’s fnest restaurants ofer menus that embrace an array of infuences, distinctive dining rooms and exemplary service. Verity Hogan suggests some of the city’s best Gu i dE 65 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Frankfurt, plus useful information for visitors

EssEnti a ls 86 How To Shop Tax Free the simple steps to saving money on your shopping t r a n s l at i on s 89 Русский Перевод 94 美文翻译 sou V E n i r 98 the essential item to bring home

E n gl i s h | Р ус с к и й | 中文

Online

The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com

GET SOCIAL PHOTO: Melanie Galea/THesTreeTMuse.iT

FASHION

COMPETITIONS

Follow the Global Blue editors on the move for up-to-theminute shopping tips and insider information.

/GlobalBlue /GlobalBlueRu

@GlobalBlue

@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

/globalblue

/globalblue

/globalblue

L CIA

OF

FE

P OP * H S SS PA

SP

E

R

ING

LIKE SHOPPING? LOVE OUTLETCITY! OVER 60 PREMIUM BRANDS IN FLAGSHIP OUTLETS REDUCED BY UP TO 70 %**

In Hugo Boss’ home town, just two hours from Frankfurt, OUTLETCITY METZINGEN offers you a unique shopping experience in modern inner-city surroundings with exclusive flagship outlets, prize-winning architecture and tax-free shopping.

Exclusive events and monthly themes like Luxury Denim, Autumn Cocooning or Winterdays make your visit to OUTLETCITY METZINGEN a unique experience all year round. * Show this ad at the Tourist Information Metzingen, get your personal Shopping Pass and beneft from exclusive additional discounts of 10 % at participating stores. Valid until 31.05.2015 ** Compared to the manufacturer’s previous RRP

ARMANI . BALLY . BURBERRY . COACH . ESCADA . HACKETT . HUGO BOSS . LACOSTE .

MAX MARA . MICHAEL KORS . NIKE . POLO RALPH LAUREN . SWAROVSKI and many more

TOMMY HILFIGER STORE BÖRSENSTRASSE 1 FRANKFURT

30 | P RO D U C T S

Check Out

BACK TO BLACK This covetable backpack from women’s accessories brand Abro is made in Germany from the highest-quality leather. Its quilted pockets and long tasseled zips give it a retro rodeo style, while the adjustable shoulder straps address functionality, a core principle of the Abro brand. The company is based in Rodgau, a small town near Frankfurt, and was founded by the Bruder family in the 1930s. Initially a Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

belt factory, Abro soon expanded to produce a line of women’s handbags and has continued to evolve, now ofering a complete accessories range including footwear and small leather goods, in addition to bags and belts. Achim and Stefan Bruder, the third generation of the founding family, ensure the brand remains relevant to modern fashions, while maintaining a high standard of quality and craftsmanship. gl Abro backpack, €349, Abro, Rathenauplatz 1, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2193 9450, abro.de * for map go to page 74

FRANKFURT AM MAIN G O E T H E P L AT Z 5 – 7

+49 69 90025995 E S C A DA . C O M

32 | P RO D U C T S

SPOTS, STRIPES AND SPARKLE

1

3

2

4

1. Swarovski Babylon earrings, €59, Swarovski, Grosse Bockenheimer Strasse 8, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2972 9866, swarovski.com

2. Rimowa Limbo Multiwheel size 52 suitcase, €519, Galeria Kaufhof, Zeil 116-126, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 21910, rimowa.de

3. Coccinelle bag, €339, Kofer Klein, Rossmarkt 10, 60311 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 284814, coccinelle.com 4. Louis Vuitton scarf, from €570, Louis Vuitton, Goethestrasse 1, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 280010, louisvuitton.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

PHOTOS: (2) GREGOR KALUZA; (3) ICPHOTOGRAPHIE MILAnO; (6) RICHARd VALEnCIA PHOTOGRAPHy; (7) RICHARd PIERCE

Upgrade casual daywear with rich colour, a clash of patterns and a fash of sparkle

S H O P | 33

5

6

7

5. Closed sweater, €259, Breuninger, Main-Taunus Zentrum 26, 65843 Sulzbach, +49 (0)69 695 2200, closed.com

globalblue.com

6. Jimmy Choo Datcher boots, €995, Jimmy Choo, Goethestrasse 27, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2578 82800, jimmychoo.com

7. Michael Kors lipstick, €27.99, Douglas, Zeil 98-102, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 1338 69150, michaelkors.com

34 | N E W S

PHOTO: Š MARTINJOPPEN.DE

Shop Window

A HISTORY IN TEXTILES In 1928, textile worker Ernst Feiler gathered a team of 15 home weavers and began producing fne chenille items. By 1950, when Feiler’s daughter and son-in-law joined the family business, its success was already marked; the Feiler family possessed a keen ability to recognise the importance of technological developments, which established the company as a front-runner in the chenille industry.

Though its excellent wares have long been sold Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

across the world, it was only a few years ago that Feiler opened its frst standalone store.

The Frankfurt boutique does not disappoint fans of the brand. A cheery, colourful space, the store ofers a unique opportunity to browse the entire range of Feiler goods, from towels, bathrobes and tablecloths to handbags, scarves and childrenswear. The array of items available is almost as vast as the variety of colours and patterns on display. gl Feiler, Schillerstrasse 18, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2193 2832, feiler.de * for map go to page 74

www.skagen.de

Skagen Denmark Flagship Store: MyZeil Zeil 106-110 60313 Frankfurt

36 | N E W S

KORS COMES TO FRANKFURT Few designers can boast such a career as Michael Kors.

The American designer has come a long way from his beginnings in a small corner in New York’s Bergdorf Goodman store. As well as men’s and women’s readyto-wear items, Michael Kors creates sought-after accessories, from fragrances to watches and bags. Look out for the Hamilton Traveller tote – perfect for jet-setters – in the newly opened store in Frankfurt. Be sure to also pick up a pair of stylish aviator sunglasses, an absolute Kors classic, perfect whatever the season. hl Michael Kors, Goethestrasse 32, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 1338 9360, destinationkors.com * for map go to page 75

DANISH DESIGN Danish lifestyle brand Skagen has opened a store in Frankfurt, located on the Zeil, the city’s famous shopping street. The brand champions the Danish design principles of simplicity, functionality and purpose, ofering elegant and innovative craftsmanship.

The new store houses all the Skagen collections, including jewellery, watches and sunglasses. New for autumn/winter is a selection of high-quality leather bags and accessories for men and women which beautifully epitomise modern classic design, exemplifed by the Harbor document bag pictured, which is sure to become a wardrobe staple. gl Skagen, MyZeil, Zeil 106, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2097 6961, skagen.com * for map go to page 70

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

S H O P | 37

GEM GENIUS Having celebrated its 125th anniversary in 2013, Swiss brand Bucherer is one of the oldest purveyors of watches and fne jewellery in Germany.

Handed down through three generations of the eponymous family, the house draws on its rich heritage for each design, incorporating its traditions, knowledge and expertise in precious metals and gems.

Bucherer creates jewellery which is made to last and to be loved. These elegant earrings, available in rose or white gold, feature rows of diamonds on a spiral band which encases a glistening pearl. As is the case with so many of Bucherer’s creations, they epitomise evening elegance. mkh Bucherer, Kaiserstrasse 1, 60311 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 138820, bucherer.com * for map go to page 69

SHOP THE WORLD Using our wealth of insider knowledge, we have created a smartphone app to help you to plan your trip. The app gives information on 45 cities in 22 countries – thousands of stores are listed and located on maps, with full contact details and a description of what each store sells. Our maps guide you right to the store and can also be downloaded for offline use enabling you to create your own itinerary. You can also sign up for the Global Blue Card and, once you’re logged in the My Tax Refund wallet becomes available, allowing you to track pending refunds. The app is available in Chinese,

globalblue.com

English and Russian, and includes a Tax Refund Calculator to tell you how much you’ll save on every purchase you make in every different country you visit.

There are also instructions on how to use Currency Choice, our service that allows you to pay in your home currency. globalblue.com Download the Global Blue guide from the App Store or Play Store

38 | N E W S

PAINTED LADIES This season’s Burberry Prorsum collection, notable as the frst from Christopher Bailey in his new dual role as CEO and chief creative of the British brand, marked a departure from the ladylike silhouettes we have come to expect from Burberry. For autumn/winter the Burberry girl is a free-spirited bohemian, with fowing fabrics as the canvas for hand-painted foral fourishes. The collection was inspired

by Charleston, the English country home of artists Vanessa Bell and Duncan Grant, who decorated its interior in post-impressionist style.

This artistic infuence is abundant throughout the collection, seen in the exaggerated brushstrokes applied liberally to dresses, bags, scarves, shoes and coats. The catwalk show concluded with the cast of models parading in initialled capes, which immediately became the must-have piece of the season. gl Burberry, Goethestrasse 26-28, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 9139 6071, burberry.com * for map go to page 75

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

The story of Wempe began over 135 years ago with a young watchmaker named Gerhard Diedrich Wilhelm Wempe, whose eye for quality and skills in marketing soon got him noticed by powerful clients. His watch designs were beautiful and accomplished, and by 1907 his success had allowed him to open a fagship in Hamburg. The core values of beauty and quality have remained paramount within Wempe, which is still a family-run company to this day. It is one of Germany’s most prestigious watchmakers, and a timepiece

by Wempe should be on every enthusiast’s wish list. hl Wempe, An der Hauptwache 7, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 20011, wempe.de * for map go to page 75

PHOTO: (RIGHT) GÜNTER BRINKMANN

PHOTO: MAURITS SILLEM

TIME FOR WEMPE

GANT STORES FRANKFURT MyZEiL & MAiN-TAUNUS-ZENTRUM & AiRPORT-AiRSiDE FLUGSTEiG A www.GANT.cOM

40 | N E W S

In Store: Biegel

PHOTO: baumann fOTOgrafie

Marc-Jens Biegel is the second generation of his family to take the reins at fne jewellery company Biegel, founded in 1964. Biegel’s close-knit team of goldsmiths creates both bespoke jewellery and luxurious ready-to-wear pieces.

Ximena Daneri spoke to the designer in the frm’s Frankfurt fagship store

‘I am the sole proprietor of Biegel and also the designer. We are a small team of just four, including myself. Right now we are celebrating our 50th anniversary.

‘Our store is located in one of only a few old buildings that remain in the centre of Frankfurt. It is right opposite the German stock market, which is also an old building of the same style. The whole area is quite authentic and unique in Frankfurt. Since the store opened, the square itself has not changed a lot, because the buildings mentioned are listed. But the surrounding area has become extremely vivid and very dynamic.

‘The shop has six-metre-high ceilings, which is why we have a mezzanine level.

Manufacturing, presentation, service and consulting, as well as sales, are all under one roof. This makes our shop unique – at least Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

in Frankfurt. We sell modern jewellery in a wide range of precious metals and materials, including gemstones and diamonds. We also sell bespoke jewellery. One of our specialities is 24-carat jewellery – forged and hardened.

‘I have a lot of great memories of this store.

For example, in 2002 I decided to collaborate with international designers. I worked with Konstantin Grcic, Tom Dixon, Alfredo Häberli, and Ronan and Erwan Bouroullec, to name just a few. At the launch of their pieces all of them came to join the private view.

It was great to have all those great designers at the same place. The echo in the media was enormous. It was something like a restart of our business and a very infuential change in modern jewellery.’

Biegel, Börsenplatz 13-15, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 285908, biegel.biz

bogner.com

Baden Baden · Berlin · düsseldorf · fr ankfurt · Garmisch-Partenkirchen hamBurG · innsBruck · kitzBühel · köln · münchen · new York · salzBurG st. moritz · stuttGart · sYlt · zermatt · zürich

42 | F E AT U R E S

Sustainable

S H O P | 43

Germany’s well-established green scene continues to encourage fashion design that combines elegance with an eco-friendly attitude, reports Gwyneth Holland

Style

89 /

94

Across Germany, niche brands are creating a new future for luxury fashion, based on craftsmanship, innovation, sustainability and quality. These ethical creations are a world away from the stereotypes of eco-friendly fashion – no lumpy silhouettes, sackcloth or dangling trinkets here. Instead, innovative materials, carefully sourced accessories and sleek lines ofer sustainable style.

Germany has a long history of green consumption, with avid recyclers, clean energy campaigners and Fair Trade fans across the country, but it’s only recently that the country’s eco attitude has transferred into the fashion world. ‘There are nearly as many organic food shops in Germany as there are supermarkets.

Sustainability has become normal now, so naturally it’s impacting fashion,’ says designer Isabell de Hillerin.

While innovative eco design is now coming to the forefront, Germany already has a strong foundation in natural textiles. In the 70s, eco-pioneers including Hessnatur, Disana and Engel founded the International Verband der Naturtextilwirtschaft (International Association of Natural Textile Industry or IVN), which helped to develop the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) for fabrics, now frequently seen on labels.

Opposite: Isabell de Hillerin autumn/winter 2014/15

PHOTO: TImur EmEk/GETTy ImaGES FOr GrEEnSHOwrOOm and ETHIcal FaSHIOn SHOw BErlIn

44 | F E AT U R E S

Eco designers have been working for years, to little fanfare, but much of the current interest in sustainable fashion is due to growing awareness of the real cost of cheap fast fashion.

The tragic collapse of the Rana Plaza factory in Bangladesh in 2013 focused attention on the problems created by the demand for cheap clothes. Since then, many consumers have been attempting to be more responsible about the clothes they purchase.

Launched in 2009, sustainable fashion initiatives Greenshowroom and Ethical Fashion Show Berlin help designers to spread the message of sustainable style. The fairs began with just 16 labels and now show over 120. ‘Today, there is an enormous interest in eco-fashion from all sides, including consumers, press, politicians, stakeholders, designers and companies,’ says Greenshowroom founder Magdalena Schafrin.

Placing their ethical or eco standards upfront isn’t how the new sustainable designers like to work – the sustainable aspect is built into the garments, naturally and seamlessly.

Designers promote the quality of their materials, the elegance of their designs and the originality of their collections – which all

just happen to be sustainable. ‘We don’t push the sustainable aspect,’ says de Hillerin.

‘We want people to buy pieces because they look and feel good. If we treat sustainability in this way, it normalises sustainable fashion.’

Brands such as Folkdays build sustainability into their ofer through ethical sourcing. The Folkdays team works with

Above (from top): Ethical Fashion Show Berlin, July 2014; Isabell de Hillerin autumn/winter 2014/15

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Frankfurt Zeil 84

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Frankfurt Skyline Plaza

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Frankfurt Zeil 84 www.juweliere-kraemer.de

PHOTO: XXXXXXX

46 | F E AT U R E S

specialist craftspeople in developing countries to bring their high-quality creations to the European market. But this is no charity project – Folkdays’ luxurious products include the softest blankets from Bolivia and Peru, the best cashmere from Kashmir and Nepal, silver jewellery made in Thai villages for generations and ikat patterns made by expert weavers in Cambodia. Each product is made using indigenous materials and natural colours, and comes with fascinating provenance.

‘There’s a strong movement towards things that have history and meaning,’ says Lisa Jaspers, co-founder of Folkdays. ‘More people want originality, to feel like they’re not wearing the same as everyone else, and handicrafts are original by defnition.’

Above (clockwise from lef): Folkdays golden leaves earrings; luxaa autumn/winter 2014/15; Folkdays ikat weaver in cambodia; Folkdays cushion cover

S H O P | 47

Sustainable fashion’s sense of originality is not just rooted in traditional skills but is also about innovative approaches to clothes.

Berlin-based label Luxaa uses high-tech fabrics such as Tyvek (which is 100% recyclable) to create a very modern kind of eco-luxe. ‘Innovative materials and techniques, combined with sustainability, functionality and longevity, are my greatest inspiration,’ says Luxaa founder and designer Anne Trautwein.

The niche eco-brands coming out of Germany today are revealing a new kind of luxury – one based not on big brand names or ‘It’ bags, but on provenance, quality and conscience. ‘For a lot of people, luxury is increasingly about products made in good conditions, with great craftsmanship,’ says de Hillerin. Trautwein adds that people are now buying ‘fewer, better things’ and expect their purchases to be

PHOTO: sebasTian dOnaTH/neOncOlOur.cOm

Ethical designers are showing big brands that sustainable fashion can be stylish and luxurious beautiful, great quality and sustainable. She believes that the rise of conscious consumption means that ‘sustainable luxury products are increasingly becoming status symbols.’

The impact of green and ethical designers goes beyond their own stores and customers – they’re also showing big brands how sustainable fashion can be done stylishly and luxuriously.

Schafrin notes the growing infuence of sustainable designers on mainstream fashion.

‘The change is visible in the conventional fashion labels implementing serious sustainability initiatives or the fact that nearly all corporations nowadays have CSR departments. All in all, eco fashion is on a path towards the mass market – which is a great achievement.’ isabelldehillerin.com, folkdays.com, luxaa.de

PHOTO: CHrisTian Krinninger/CriKri.De

The Munich-based Oska has gone from strength to strength thanks to its refreshing approach to womenswear.

New Josh Sims talks to founder Helmut Bayer about his recipe for success

Cool

It is a €25m business with some 70 stores around the world. Yet German clothing company Oska fies decidedly under the radar, having won a cult following among women to whom most of the fashion world pays little regard. ‘I’d say our average customer is 50 upwards – and when you’re that age it’s not easy to fnd beautiful clothes that don’t make you look silly, ancient or too young,’ says Helmut Bayer, who founded Oska in 1997 with a couple of partners (long since bought out) and who now runs the company, with colleague Stefanie Schmitz as designer.

‘That puts us in a particular niche.’

It’s one Bayer has been careful to cultivate, perhaps chiefy through a close understanding of his customer: the newly liberated late middle-aged woman, free of children, perhaps, Bayer half-jokes, divorced and free of husbands, reborn and ‘ready to start a new life’, as he puts it. ‘I’ve seen that pattern with women I know closely over and over. Women go through far more fundamental changes in their lives than men, and they get a very clear idea about what they want in life.’

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And, in seems, in the way they dress.

No Oska garment, for example, has any exterior branding. ‘You might love it when you’re young – look at Abercrombie & Fitch – but when you get to a certain age you don’t want to buy into a brand but to express your own personality,’ says Bayer. ‘The older you get, the more individual you get, the more opinionated you get.’ Similarly, seasonal shifts in style are not what it’s about either. If you want catwalk fashion, go elsewhere: each season at Oska is, as Bayer puts it, ‘not a new book but a new chapter for the on-going book’.

Each collection is based frst and foremost on fabrics: their colour, texture and drape.

Oska works closely with Pro Len, its main manufacturer in Prostejov in the Czech Republic; not only does the region have its own textiles heritage, but its position allows it to source materials that manufacturers in other parts of Europe struggle to fnd, especially high-quality leather, hemp and silk. Oska also has its own dedicated dyeing works there, which allows for complex garment-dyeing (resulting in a much richer hue that fades naturally over Above (from lef): Oska founder Helmut Bayer; the brand’s autumn/winter 2014/15 collection (also shown on previous page)

PHOTOs: CHrisTian Krinninger/CriKri.De

50 | F E AT U R E S

basler-fashion.com

time) and makes what it does very hard to copy.

Consequently, Bayer concedes, Oska’s are not the cheapest of clothes – but, he implies, you get what you pay for.

Certainly, although Bayer insists his Munich-based company is a fashion business, much of Oska’s approach seems to cut against the usual industry grain. ‘It’s quite an old-fashioned approach to making clothes, I suppose, and certainly very unlike the highstreet volume brands of today,’ says the onetime fashion sales agency rep, who started the company because he’d grown despondent over the poor quality of the clothing he was expected to sell. ‘Each collection just grows out of the fabric. Really, the power in the fashion world lies with fabric manufacturers, not designers.

You don’t get quality clothing out of bad fabric any more than you get a quality car out of bad steel. The fabric is crucial to how a garment can be cut, how it washes, how it ages. If the clothes are German in any sense, it’s in the emphasis on quality and reliability.’

Bayer also likes his clothing to last from the standpoint of both ethics (‘I couldn’t produce in Bangladesh, for example – I couldn’t live with myself,’ he says) and sustainability, although it is not something he often stresses.

‘Buying “green” is only moving forward a little.

The bottom line is that actually we should just buy less. We shouldn’t buy it at all. But who wants to hear that? And it’s not great for business either,’ he laughs.

And business is good: although he would like to double turnover in the next fve years,

PHOTO: CHrisTiAn Krinninger/CriKri.De

PHOTO: AnTOn FillmAnn

52 | F E AT U R E S

as it would make Oska’s necessarily high development and prototyping costs easier to absorb, he does expect growth of around 50%, which seems a comfortable aim for such a smartly targeted company. In the circumstances, one wonders why Bayer hasn’t tried his successful formula on menswear, too, beyond the extant capsule collection.

After all, that was the original idea, back when the company started out being called Oskar.

‘We’ve tried a bit but it doesn’t work as well,’ he says. ‘Men at the same stage in their lives tend to want very simple designs, to stick with what they know and buy the same thing over and over. I’m like that – and I’m in the fashion business.’ oska.com

Above (from top): Oska store, munich; Oska designer stefanie schmitz

54 | F E AT U R E S

Breaking the Mould

German porcelain has always been innovative and the country’s top brands remain world leaders, as Stephen Doig discovers

Johann Friedrich BĂśttger is a name that resounds in the world of European porcelain; many sources point to BĂśttger as the father of contemporary porcelain. It was in the 1700s that the German chemist began experimenting to determine how the material, whose manufacturing process was a closely guarded secret in its native China and Japan, was made.

The Meissen company, founded in the city of the same name in 1710, enjoyed the fruits of his labour when it established a business around a product that would become a major German export.

92 / Lef: crafsmanship at Nymphenburg

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Böttger’s legacy can be explored in Frankfurt’s Porzellan Museum, a section of the extensive Historisches Museum, but the city also ofers enticing opportunities to invest in pieces for the home that are as ftting in a 21st-century environment as they were in the homes of the Habsburgs.

It’s perhaps ftting that Meissen’s insignia shows crossed swords, such was the label’s protectiveness of its methods. To this day, Above (from top): Meissen porcelain is painted by hand; Meissen Couture Grace foral-embellished dress

PHOTO: STEFAN KRAUL

German heritage porcelain companies such as Meissen today offer sleek, modern ranges in vivid colours and finishes

StrellSon Store, Skyline plaza, europa-allee 6, FrankFurt

strellson.com

58 | F E AT U R E S

an exacting training programme ensures that Meissen’s craftspeople work to the highest standards in their modelling and painting, and are trained for three years. Meissen’s artisans devote themselves to pushing the boundaries of porcelain craft, producing intricate detailing and richly decorative painting on everything from tableware to fgurines.

Today’s Meissen oferings have expanded to encompass collaborations with contemporary artists, as well as sleek modern ranges and vivid colour tones and fnishes; politely dainty porcelain tea sets have been superseded by gleaming metallic rainbow hues and architectural lines. In keeping with the label’s focus on innovation and keeping ahead of the curve, the house launched a clothing range last year, under the directorship of Frida Weyer– the same craft and attention to detail that applies to Meissen’s porcelain is carried into the clothing range.

As befts a label whose headquarters are next door to Munich’s Nymphenburg palace, Nymphenburg porcelain’s royal connections are integral to the brand’s identity. Nymphenburg

The 21st-century collections from Nymphenburg feature collaborations with star designers alongside traditional skills and artistry

Above (clockwise from lef): Nymphenburg Mezzetino Commedia dell’Arte fgurine in collaboration with Vivienne Westwood; the brand’s water-powered factory; Nymphenburg Julia Commedia dell’Arte fgurine in collaboration with Christian Lacroix; Nymphenburg kiln

S H O P | 59

was founded by the Bavarian crown in 1747, and a strong sense of the past remains essential to the brand’s operation today. For example, the equipment in the Nymphenburg factory is powered by water from the estate, all pieces are shaped on a potter’s wheel or cast by hand, and the process of handpainting, decorating and glazing is painstaking. An original piece of Nymphenburg porcelain can be distinguished by the brand’s crest and coat of arms.

While the original skills and artistry of Nymphenburg remain intact, the company has moved with the times to include innovative new ranges and a roster of all-star collaborators includes Karl Lagerfeld, Miuccia Prada and Vivienne Westwood. The brand hasn’t been precious about breathing new life into its pieces, from the quirky Animal Bowls range, where 3D creatures roam across plates and dishes, to porcelain skulls decorated with insects and fowers – so long-standing technique and slick design can sit side-by-side on your shelves meissen.com, nymphenburg.com

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Table Talk Frankfurt’s fnest restaurants ofer menus that embrace an array of infuences, distinctive dining rooms and exemplary levels of service. Verity Hogan peruses the menus of some of the city’s best

Frankfurt’s cosmopolitan reputation has helped the city create a suitably eclectic restaurant scene. this is not a new development for Germany. German cuisine is characterised by its heartiness and emphasis on meat and potatoes, and there is a growing interest in organic food across the country, but Germany has always had a varied and contrasting national cuisine, with each region boasting its own specialities. South-west Germany has long been infuenced by French cuisine while traditional dishes such as sauerkraut are prepared slightly diferently in this area.

Such diverse infuences, combined with the tastes and favours brought by the seven million Frankfurt residents who originate from outside Germany, have had a profound impact on Frankfurt’s restaurant scene. the eateries located here combine international favours with traditional German ingredients and also ofer engaging interiors and intriguing concepts. globalblue.com

S H O P | 61

Emma mEtzlEr Emma metzler is set in the grounds of Frankfurt’s museum für angewandte Kunst (museum of applied art) and this artistic location is refected in both its décor and its beautifully presented cuisine. the restaurant resembles a blank canvas, with white walls and picture windows opening out onto the well-maintained garden. the menu is seasonal but broadly based on French and south-west German cuisine; dishes might include Scottish salmon with a pineapple and cucumber relish and tarragon cream, or a rib-eye steak served with parmesan potatoes, green asparagus and Béarnaise sauce.

Emma Metzler, metzlerpark, Schaumainkai 17, 60594 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 6199 5906, emma-metzler.com

Leading WomensWear Brands and CoLLeCtions FrankFurt/main ZeiL 100 Monday Through Thursday 10 aM - 8 pM Friday Through saTurday 10 aM - 9 pM suLZBaCh/taunus main-taunus-Zentrum Monday Through Wednesday 9.30 aM - 8 pM Thursday Through saTurday 9.30 aM - 10 pM

PHOTO: SJenS Braune del angel

E X P E R I E N C E | 63

M Ax on one

Surf’n Turf

Despite its gourmet reputation, Max on one has a surprisingly relaxed atmosphere to accompany its fne cuisine. The restaurant’s menu combines expert culinary skills with the world’s fnest produce to create dishes such as suckling pig with pearl barley, celery and beetroot, and a classic steak tartare. The open kitchen provides diners with additional entertainment, while those looking for a more leisurely experience can choose to dine on the sofa seating in the lounge.

Max on One, Jumeirah Hotel, Thurn-und-Taxis-Platz 2, 60313 frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2972 37198, jumeirah.com

An authentic American steakhouse in the heart of frankfurt, Surf’n Turf reputedly serves the best steak in Germany. Various juicy and tender cuts are available, from a classic new York strip steak to a porterhouse for two. The restaurant’s dining room refects its relaxed atmosphere with intimate low lighting, wood panelling and cabinets flled with wine; note the antlers providing unusual design accents throughout.

This convivial setting, combined with a welledited, delicious menu has attracted a loyal following among locals and visitors to the city.

Surf’n Turf, Grüneburgweg 95, 60323 frankfurt, +49 (0)69 722122, mook-group.de/surfnturf

PHOTO: STeve Herud

MAxie eiSen

globalblue.com

Located in one of the city’s most creative districts, Maxie eisen is named after a 1920s gangster and serves a menu based around traditional Jewish cuisine. Pastrami is the signature dish: American beef brisket cured with mustard, crushed peppercorns, coriander seeds and garlic. The range of sides is equally appealing; choose between matzo ball soup, herring with horseradish and home-cooked rosemary french fries. The restaurant’s dining room is similarly distinctive, featuring claret and blue walls, accents of bronze stainless steel and furniture by french designer Jean Prouvé.

Maxie Eisen, Münchener Strasse 18, 60329 frankfurt, +49 (0)69 7675 8362, maxie-eisen.de

Photographed in La Roca Village. A member of the Chic Outlet Shopping ® Collection of Villages.

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G U I D E | 65

Guide

PHOTO: XXXXXXX

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Frankfurt with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from the coolest concept stores to the city’s must-see museums. Start with SHOP’s highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/frankfurt.

A GlIMPSE OF FRANKFURT SNAP OF THE CITY

Frankfurt’s cosmopolitan skyscrapers and bustling fnancial institutions provide an intriguing to the city’s more buildings Nihicipi enectocontrast ea alignat inctiorio endiahistoric et globalblue.com

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Frankfurt SHOP’S HIGHLIGHTS

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Skagen Danish design is internationally acclaimed and Skagen’s newly opened store brings its simple yet functional aesthetic to Frankfurt.

MyZeil, Zeil 106, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2097 6961, skagen.com featured on page 36

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Biegel The modern jewellery on offer at the Biegel boutique is crafted from a range of precious metals and materials that include gemstones and diamonds.

Börsenplatz 13-15, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 285908, biegel.biz featured on page 40

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Oska Visit Oska’s Frankfurt boutique to invest in longlasting, timeless clothing made from the fnest available fabrics.

Oppenheimer Landstrasse 34, 60596 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 6605 5099, oska-frankfurt.de featured on page 48

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Maxie Eisen Be sure to try the traditional pastrami, herring with horseradish and home-cooked rosemary French fries on the menu at Jewish-themed eatery Maxie Eisen.

Münchener Strasse 18, 60329 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 7675 8362, maxie-eisen.de featured on page 63

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The Listener Discover a carefully edited selection of the world’s most sought-after designer brands at The Listener concept store.

Stephanstrasse 1, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2100 8000, thelistener.de featured on page 68

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CooLesT ConCepT sTores 1. The Listener The Listener’s highly selective approach to product buying has helped to produce a range with universally high standards of design and workmanship. A mix of avant-garde international labels flls the space; the range includes pieces by Comme des Garçons, Opening Ceremony, Folk, APC and Nudie Jeans.

The store’s interior is as distinctive as its collection, featuring patterned cement tiles, steel and warm wood accents and a striking copper-coated counter.

The Listener, Stephanstrasse 1, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2100 8000, thelistener.de

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S H O P | 69 2. 2nd Home If you’re seeking design inspiration, look no further than Frankfurt’s 2nd Home. The store is designed to look like a city apartment, separated into different rooms. Each room showcases a selection of furniture, lighting and accessories as well as a well-edited range of fashion, art and jewellery.

2nd Home, Vogelsbergstrasse 38, 60316 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 4056 4842, 2nd-home.net

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3. Arizona-Galerie One of Frankfurt’s more unusual stores, Arizona-Galerie offers an eclectic selection of Native American jewellery, handicrafts and moccasins. The range includes more than 1,000 rings, earrings and necklaces and over 500 bracelets and pendants, made from sterling silver, precious stones and leather.

Arizona-Galerie, Grosse Bockenheimer Strasse 37, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 287379, arizona-galerie.de for map go to page 74

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Zeil, Neue Kräme, Hasengasse & Braubachstrasse SELECTED STORES IN MYZEIL:

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72 | G U I D E 3. Städel Museum Founded in 1815, Städel Museum is one of Germany’s oldest art museums. Its vast collection provides a comprehensive overview of the last 700 years of art history, featuring works from the early 14th century to the present day. Collection highlights include pieces by Botticelli, Rembrandt, Vermeer, Matisse and Klee.

Städel Museum, Schaumainkai 63, 60596 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 605 0980, staedelmuseum.de

FranKFurt’S MuSt-viSit MuSeuMS 1. Museum für Moderne Kunst Despite being a relative newcomer in the international modern art world, MMK has already made a profound impact thanks to its diverse collection. More than 4,500 works are on display, all of which have been produced since the 1960s. Expect the museum’s 40 rooms to feature pieces by Lichtenstein, Warhol, Cy Twombly and Francis Bacon.

MMK Museum für Moderne Kunst, Domstrasse 10, 60311 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2123 0447, mmk-frankfurt.de

3

PHOTO: NORBeRT MIGuleTz

2. Schirn Kunsthalle The leading exhibition gallery in Frankfurt, Schirn plays host to shows on a wide variety of themes alongside retrospectives of individual artists. Past exhibitions have highlighted the work of Wassily Kandinsky, Henri Matisse and Peter Doig while upcoming exhibitions include an in-depth look at Andreas Schulze and Helene Schjerfbeck as well as a show dedicated to German pop art.

Schirn Kunsthalle, Römerberg, 60311 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 299 8820, schirn.de

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74 | G U I D E

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S H O P | 75

1

BESt ShoPS on GoEthEStraSSE 1. Picard Family-owned leather company Picard has been crafting high-quality bags since 1920 and has become known for producing high-end products at surprisingly affordable prices.

The company retains its heritage appeal yet has also adapted to meet modern demands, extending its range to include luggage and briefcases as well as creating a premium Made in Germany collection. Creative types are sure to love the brand’s regular collaborations with art and cultural organisations – guaranteed to produce distinctive designs.

Picard, Goethestrasse 14, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 296831, picard-lederwaren.de 2. Laurèl Form-fattering cuts, bold prints and vibrant colour palettes ensure that Laurèl’s womenswear collections always stand out from the crowd. Head designer Elisabeth Schwaiger specialises in modern classics, creating pieces that are feminine and casual enough to work in any urban environment.

Luxury pervades the collections and even the most relaxed garments feature high-quality materials; expect pieces incorporating leather, jersey and silk to feature throughout the collection.

Laurèl, Kleine Bockenheimer Strasse 18A, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 1337 6390, laurel.de

3. Charlotte Ehinger-Schwarz The Charlotte Ehinger-Schwarz brand has more than 135 years of experience in crafting fne jewellery, yet despite this heritage, its collections are strikingly contemporary. Pieces are designed to be timeless so they can be passed down through the generations, and are crafted from high-end materials such as silver, gold, platinum and pearls. Customise your Charlotte piece by making use of the range’s interchangeable designs – every item can be taken apart and reassembled as you wish.

Charlotte Ehinger-Schwarz, Goethestrasse 18, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 9291 9182, charlotte.de

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76 | G U I D E

Outletcity Metzingen HOW tO Get tHeRe enter Reutlinger Strasse 63, 72555 Metzingen on your satellite navigation system. take the a5 out of Frankfurt before joining the a8 to Metzingen. take the exit toward Metzingen (B312) and take the L378a to Reutlinger Strasse.

Outletcity Metzingen is clearly signposted when you arrive in the town.

Outletcity Metzingen, Reutlinger Strasse 63, 72555 Metzingen, +49 (0)7123 925326, outletcity.com

PeRFect Day

Opening times Monday-Friday: 10am-8pm Saturday: 9am-8pm (Hugo Boss 8am-8pm)

2pm

4pm

Hugo Boss collections strike the perfect balance between fashion and function.

Diane von Furstenberg produces pieces that radiate elegance – the printed wrap dress is a wardrobe classic.

10am Start your day perusing the sportswear collection on ofer at Peak Performance; the label is known for combining functionality and style.

globalblue.com

12pm take a break at the Keim bakery to enjoy cofee and cake or a freshly made sandwich.

6pm end your trip at hard-wearing luggage specialist Samsonite.

S H O P | 77

Zweibrücken The Style Outlets PeRFect Day 10am Start your day by admiring the high quality and sophisticated craftsmanship displayed

by Italian label Cerruti.

HOW tO Get tHeRe By train trains run from Saarbrücken to Zweibrücken station.

Visitors can then catch a bus to the Style Outlets.

By bus

12pm Zweibrücken The Style Outlets, Londoner Bogen 10-90, 66842 Zweibrücken, +49 (0)6332 99390, thestyleoutlets.com Opening times Monday-Saturday: 10am-7pm Sundays and public holidays: closed

enjoy a traditional German meal made from the freshest available produce at La Place Restaurant.

Buses run from Zweibrücken to the Style Outlets every hour from Monday to Saturday.

By car

2pm Petit Bateau’s childrenswear collections are sure to brighten up your afternoon with their whimsical designs and youthful take on French fashion.

3pm With its selection of high quality tableware, gifts and lifestyle accessories, Villeroy & Boch is the perfect place to visit if you’re seeking elegant homeware. Opt for the classica range for timeless tableware.

From Frankfurt, take the a8 motorway and then exit 34, which is signposted to the airport. the journey takes around 90 minutes.

5pm end your day at footwear boutique Peter Kaiser. the designer is known for combining heritage manufacturing with contemporary design. expect a diverse collection incorporating fne materials such as high-quality leather, soft suede and the most prestigious fabrics.

78 | G U I D E

Wertheim Village

Wertheim Village, just 40 minutes from frankfurt city centre, is perfectly located for locals and international visitors alike. the Village’s design refects its tranquil surroundings, with traditional scalloptiled roofng and turrets that echo nearby vineyard-clad halls and local villages. the Village plays host to more than 110 designer boutiques from both German and international labels, all of which ofer up to 60% savings on normal retail prices.

DON’t MiSS…

Five-star services The village ofers a range of VIP services including: • • • • •

free Wifi Dog kennels a personal shopper (on request) tourist information a children’s playground

globalblue.com

Wertheim Village, almosenberg, 97887 Wertheim, +49 (0)9342 919 9100, wertheimvillage.com, chicoutletshopping.com Opening times Monday-Saturday: 10am-8pm Sundays and public holidays: closed for special opening times please visit the website

Shopping Packages Various packages are available at the Village. Packages can be booked via the Village’s website and services can include: • return tickets from central frankfurt to the village on the Shopping express® luxury coach • a €25 Wertheim Village Shopping card to be spent at a boutique of your choice at the Village • an exclusive gift • Lunch with small soft drink at La Piazza restaurant at the Village

S H O P | 79

Verity Hogan, SHOP’s city guide and lifestyle editor, describes her perfect day at Wertheim Village

Perfect Day 10am Start your day at German label Drykorn. the brand is known for setting the trends; expect bright colours, bold prints and a fnish of the highest quality.

11am 1pm Stop for lunch at Prime. the restaurant serves a range of high-quality dishes including burgers, fresh salads and daily specials, served in an urban-chic environment.

Lagerfeld’s boutique ofers the complete ready-to-wear men’s collection and range of accessories, all infused with Karl Lagerfeld’s signature style.

6pm 3pm Steif’s trademark ear button makes its high-quality teddy bears instantly recognisable. the Steif range also includes dogs, cats and pigs.

end your day by admiring the craftsmanship displayed in Bally’s exquisite leather goods collection.

Pieces ofer the highest quality as well as contemporary styling.

HOW tO Get tHere By car from frankfurt head to Würzberg on the a3. take exit 66 signposted Wertheim/ Lengfurt. the drive takes approximately 50 minutes from frankfurt city centre.

By train regular trains run to Wertheim town from frankfurt’s central station, Nuremberg and Würzberg. then take the free shuttle bus to Wertheim Village from Monday to Saturday. collect your ticket from the tourist information ofce in Wertheim town.

By Shopping Express the Shopping express® luxury coach service takes visitors from frankfurt to Wertheim Village and back, departing from the city’s main train station, 20B, bus stops 7-9, from Monday to Saturday. for further information and to book, visit chicoutletshopping.com.

80 | G U I D E

Essential Information Use your smartphone’s QR code reader to link to the helpful websites below when on the go 1

2

1. Regional Tourist Ofce Tourismus + Congress GmbH Kaiserstrasse 56 60329 Frankfurt frankfurt-tourismus.de 2. Federal Foreign Ofce Switchboard (24-hour service): +49 (0)30 18170 Help Desk (Mon-Fri: 9am3pm): +49 (0)30 1817 2000 3. Transportation Maps For public transport timetables and tickets head to rmv.de or mobil.rmv.de/ mobile/portal; alternatively you can scan the QR code 4. Deutsche Bahn If you intend to travel by train go to the bahn.de website or scan the QR code for more information 5. Taxi To fnd a local taxi, scan the QR code or use the website taxi.de 6. Global Blue Online For the most up-to-date information on shops, museums, galleries and restaurants in Germany, go to globalblue.com or scan the QR code globalblue.com

3

4

5

6

EMERGENCY SERVICES

USEFUL PHRASES

Emergency: 112 (ambulance and fre); 110 (police) Doctor: +49 (0)116117 (emergency service, weekends and public holidays) Lost Or Stolen Cards: +49 (0)116116 (immediate blocking of lost/ stolen debit/credit cards)

Hello ∙ Hallo/Guten Tag Thank you ∙ Danke schön Please ∙ Bitte I would like... ∙ Ich möchte...

Goodbye ∙ Auf Wiedersehen How much is...? ∙ Wieviel kostet...?

Can I have a receipt please? ∙ Darf ich bitte eine Quittung haben?

INSIDER TIP Check out the FRA Airport app to fnd out about fight times, shopping opportunities and parking facilities before you travel.

Download it free by scanning the QR code

It’s more fun, when it’s tax-free!

Grand Gourmet

Life tastes great.

Premium One Cromargan®

Knife set 5 pieces instead of 384,75*

Cookware set 4 pieces

289,–

instead of 496,95*

399,– *sum of the prices

Made in Germany

WMF Stores Frankfurt www.wmf.de/flialen

Schillerstraße 2, Tel. 069/282382 Kaiserstraße 15, Tel. 069/284474 Zeil 106, Tel. 069/13886872

82 | G U I D E

Eat, See, Do If you only have a short time to spend in Frankfurt, the city’s tourist board has picked its top three attractions around the city.

Tourismus + Congress Frankfurt am Main, Römerberg 27, 60311 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2123 8800, frankfurt-tourismus.de

Eat Discover Frankfurt’s traditional cuisine in one of the city’s rustic apple wine bars. Grüne sosse (green sauce), served alongside apple wine in a ribbed glass or stoneware jug, is a speciality.

See The historical city centre around Römerberg features magnifcent half-timbered homes.

Goethe-Haus, Grosser Hirschgraben 23- 25, 60311 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 138800, goethehaus-frankfurt.de

Do Stroll down the Zeil, Frankfurt’s most prestigious shopping boulevard, home to department stores and specialist shops as well as the enduringly popular MyZeil shopping centre.

globalblue.com

84 | G U I D E

Frankfurt Airport After every great holiday comes the fight home, but that doesn’t mean your shopping trip should be over when you reach the airport. At Frankfurt Airport, you’ll fnd the best names in German fashion and accessories. If you’re looking for gifts, souvenirs or a new pair of sunglasses from a label that you won’t fnd at home, the airport’s boutiques are sure to fll the gaps in your suitcase.

Frankfurt Airport also has an enticing variety of food and drink options.

Tifany & Co Few women can resist the allure of Tifany jewellery. Founded in New York in 1837, Tifany is one of the world’s most respected jewellery makers and has always been at the forefront of design developments. The Tifany design team, committed to stunning, luxurious jewellery, has created pioneering pieces inspired by modern art and introduced unusual precious metals and gems to the range.

FTC Cashmere Beautiful cashmere is a winter wardrobe staple, being both snug and stylish – and ideal for staying comfortable on long haul fights. FTC Cashmere designs knitwear that’s not only well-made but also ethically sourced. Company owners Jutta and Andreas Knezovic work closely with farmers to ensure the highest environmental and ethical standards, resulting in wonderful cashmere knits that are a joy to wear.

Dulce A box of very good chocolates is always welcome as a souvenir or gift. The Dulce chocolate bar uses only 100% natural ingredients to produce its range of mouthwatering sweet treats. The company is meticulous about sourcing the highestquality ingredients, such as Alphonso mango puree from southern India and Sicilian lemons, ensuring that all Dulce chocolates, conserves, ice creams and sorbets taste truly delicious.

globalblue.com

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Translations РусскИй ПеРевОд 42: Sustainable Style

Идеальное Оформление

Экологический тренд в Германии все активнее влияет на моду, вдохновляя дизайнеров на творческое соединение стиля и заботы об окружающей среде, рассказывает Гвинет Холланд Нишевые бренды Германии открывают новые перспективы развития роскошной моды: теперь во главе угла технологические новации, устойчивость, качество и внимание к народному мастерству. Все это весьма далеко от стереотипов об экологичной моде: никаких мешковатых силуэтов, дерюги или неуместного декора. Напротив, в основе нового эко-тренда в моде - инновационные ткани, проработанные аксессуары и изящные силуэты. В Германии активно работает много сторонников зеленого потребления – специалисты по вторичному использованию и чистой энергии, энтузиасты справедливой торговли пропагандируют свои идеи по всей стране. При этом на модный мир этот globalblue.com

процесс начал влиять сравнительно недавно. «Сейчас в Германии, пожалуй, магазины органических продуктов не уступают по количеству обычным супермаркетам. Экологическая осознанность стала нормой, и вполне естественно, что модный мир не желает оставаться в стороне», - размышляет дизайнер Изабель де Хиллерин. В то же время в Германии давно готов фундамент для продвижения ответственных идей в моде: это экологически чистые ткани. В 1970-е годы эко-пионеры Hessnatur, Disana и Engel основали Международный союз производителей натуральных тканей (International Verband der Naturtextilwirtschaf – IVN). Эта организация выработала и зафиксировала Мировой стандарт органического текстиля (GOTS), и теперь соответствующую отметку ставят на ярлыки, если одежда сшита из сертифицированного материала. Эко-дизайнеры, конечно, работают далеко не первый год, просто они не всегда громко рекламируют свою деятельность. Но именно сейчас отмечается рост интереса к экологичному потреблению, и это обусловлено осознанием реальной стоимости дешевой и быстрой моды. Трагедия на фабрике Rana Plaza в Бангладеше в 2013 году привлекла внимание к проблемам, связанным с повышенным спросом на дешевые вещи. С тех пор многие покупатели пытаются более ответственно подходить к выбору одежды. В 2009 году появились проекты Greenshowroom и Ethical Fashion Show Berlin, призванные помочь дизайнерам распространять принципы устойчивого стиля. Поначалу в этих ярмарках участвовало всего 16 брендов, а теперь их уже более 120. «Сегодня существует огромный интерес к эко-моде со всех сторон – покупателей, прессы, политиков, инвесторов, дизайнеров и компаний», утверждает основатель Greenshowroom Магдалена Шафрин.

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Дизайнеры не очень любят выставлять напоказ свои этические принципы. Им больше по душе, когда эти аспекты органично встроены в их продукцию: качество материалов, элегантность моделей, оригинальность коллекций – и так уж случилось, что еще и устойчивость. «Мы не педалируем экологическую тему, подчеркивает де Хиллерин. – Важно, чтобы люди покупали вещи из-за стиля и удобства. А когда мы представляем наши идеи в такой форме, то экологическая осознанность воспринимается практически как норма». Бренд Folkday пошел по другому пути: для них устойчивость означает этичность в производстве. Команда марки сотрудничает с ремесленниками в развивающихся странах и привозит их работы на европейский рынок. Не стоит путать это с благотворительностью: под маркой Folkday могут продаваться исключительно качественные и роскошные вещи, как, например, мягкие одеяла из Боливии и Перу, прекрасный кашемир из Кашмира и Непала, серебряные украшения из деревень Таиланда и плетеные ткани икат из Камбоджи. Все это производится исключительно из местных материалов с использованием натуральных красителей. Отдельное удовольствие – знакомиться с историей и происхождением каждого предмета. «Вещи со смыслом становятся все более популярными, - считает Лиза Джаспер, со-основатель Folkday. – Все больше людей хотят быть оригинальными и знать, что они носят не то же самое, что и все остальные. А ручное творчество – особенное по определению». Эта неповторимость, присущая экомоде, связана не только с традиционными ремеслами, но и с использованием инновационных подходов к производству. Например, берлинская марка Luxaa шьет свои вещи исключительно из высокотехнологичных тканей: тайвек, в частности, на 100% пригоден для переработки. И это соответствует созвучным времени представлениям об эко-роскоши: «Меня по-настоящему вдохновляют инновационные материалы globalblue.com

и техники, в сочетании с экологичностью, функциональностью и долговечностью», делится основатель и дизайнер Luxaa Анне Траутвейн. Нишевые эко-бренды Германии открывают новый вид роскошного потребления. И на этот раз дело не в громких названиях или It-bags, а в надежности, качестве и осознанности. «Для многих людей роскошь теперь связана с хорошими условиями производства и высочайшим стандартом качества», - говорит де Хиллерин. А Траутвейн, в свою очередь, заметила, что люди теперь покупают меньше вещей, но уделяют больше внимания их качеству. С этой точки зрения, важнее, чтобы покупки были красивыми, качественными и уместными с экологических позиций. По ее словам, рост осознанного потребления означает, что «экороскошь становится символом статуса». Таким образом, сфера влияния «зеленых» дизайнеров простирается и за пределами собственных магазинов и общения со своими покупателями. Они успешно показывают крупным брендом, что устойчивая мода может ассоциироваться с хорошим вкусом и роскошью. Шафрин тоже отмечает влияние эко-дизайнеров на мейнстрим: «Эта перемена становится очевидна, когда известные лейблы начинают поддерживать экологические инициативы. Кроме того, почти все большие компании сегодня обзавелись отделом корпоративной ответственности. Так что эко-мода начала покорять масс-маркет, а значит, она на пути к большим победам». isabelldehillerin.com, folkdays.com, luxaa.de 48: The New Cool

Король Антимоды Благодаря оригинальному подходу к созданию женской одежды мюнхенский бренд Oska приобрел широкую популярность. Джош Симс попытался узнать секрет успеха у основателя компании – Гельмута Баера

PHOTO: CHrisTian Krinninger/CriKri.De

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Немецкий бренд Oska насчитывает более 70 магазинов по всему миру, а его оценочная стоимость превышает 25 млн. евро. При этом политика компании в отношении выпускаемой продукции остается неизменной и ориентируется преимущественно на тех, кого модная индустрия обычно старается обойти стороной. «Я бы сказал, что средний возраст наших покупателей превышает 50 лет, а ведь это именно тот возраст, когда так непросто найти одежду, которая не выглядит глупо, старомодно или слишком вызывающе», – говорит Гельмут Баер. Компанию Oska он основал в сотрудничестве со своими партнерами в 1997 году, однако уже давно успел ее выкупить, и сейчас управляет ей вместе со своей коллегой дизайнером – Стефани Шмитц. Глубокое понимание нужд покупателей позволило Баеру занять определенную нишу на рынке: его клиентки – женщины старше среднего возраста, не обремененные заботой о детях или муже, одним словом, свободные и «готовые начать новую жизнь, – шутит дизайнер. – Я очень часто видел

такой тип среди моих знакомых. В жизни женщин происходит довольно много фундаментальных перемен, намного больше, чем у мужчин, поэтому женщины всегда имеют четкое представление о том, чего они хотят». Это заметно по тому как они одеваются. Одежда Oska, к примеру, не имеет наружных этикеток с названием бренда. «Вам может это нравится когда вы молодые – взгляниете на Abercrombie & Fitch, – но когда вы становитесь старше, вам хочется скорее не демонстрировать чей-то бренд, а выражать свою индивидуальность, – говорит Баер.

– Чем больше возраст, тем сложнее ваша индивидуальность и тем выше требования». Точно так же дело обстоит и с сезонными изменениями в коллекциях. Если вы гонитесь за высокой модой, то найти ее не проблема. Что касается Oska, то каждый новый сезон здесь, как любит говорить Баер, «не новая книга, но новая глава одной большой книги». Главным элементом каждой коллекции в первую очередь являются ткани во всем их разнообразии цвета, текстуры и драпировки. Oska тесно сотрудничает с фабрикой Pro Len, расположенной в чешском городе Простеёв. Этот регион всегда славился производством текстиля, к тому же удобное географическое положение позволяет с легкостью достать необходимое сырье, а именно качественную кожу, коноплю и шелк. Здесь же расположена красильная фабрика Oska, позволяющая осуществлять сложное окрашивание тканей, в результате чего оттенки получаются более насыщенными и долго не выцветают. Баер соглашается с тем, что одежда Oska не из дешевых, но, в то же время, это означает, что вы получите именно то, за что платите. Хотя Баер и настаивает, что его компания работает в рамках модного бизнеса, тем не менее, фирменный подход похоже идет в разрез с определенными традициями индустрии. «Это довольно старомодный подход к созданию одежды, я полагаю, и, конечно он сильно отличается от политики современных модных брендов», – говорит дизайнер. Одно время

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ему пришлось работать представителем в агентстве по продаже модной одежды, качество которой оставляло желать лучшего, настолько, что он решил основать свое дело. «Каждая коллекция начинается с выбора ткани. На самом деле власть мира моды принадлежит не дизайнерам, а производителям ткани. Невозможно сделать качественную одежду из плохой ткани, так же как и нельзя собрать качественную машину из дешевой стали. Именно от ткани зависит то, как одежда будет сидеть, как будет стираться и как изнашиваться. А если речь идет о немецкой одежде, то качество и надежность должны быть бескомпромиссными». Кроме того, принципиально важным для дизайнера являются такие понятия, как экологичность и этичность производства: «Я ни в коем случае не позволил бы себе размещать производство, например, в Бангладаше, – говорит он, – иначе я потерял бы к себе уважение». При этом дизайнер отмечает что «покупка экологичных вещей это лишь первый шаг. На самом деле нам нужно просто делать меньше покупок. А в идеале и вовсе ничего не покупать. Но кому это понравится? Да и бизнес от этого вряд ли станет прибыльнее», – улыбаясь, говорит Баер. И все же бизнес идет не плохо. Хотя он и мечтает о том, чтобы удвоить прибыль в следующие пять лет, что позволило бы покрыть расходы на модернизацию и изготовление макетов, ожидаемое увеличение доходов на 50% уже является довольно солидной цифрой для такой компании. Многим даже может показаться странным почему Баер не применит свою успешную формулу к мужской одежде. Однако все не так просто, как кажется на первый взгляд. «Мы пытались начать выпускать мужскую линию, но позитивного результата не увидели, – говорит он. – Мужчины старшего возраста предпочитают носить максимально простые вещи и раз за разом покупают что-то одно, проверенное и хорошо им знакомое. Я и сам такой, хотя работаю в модном бизнесе». oska.com globalblue.com

54: Breaking The Mould

Преображая традицию

Качество немецкого фарфора никогда не подлежало сомнению. Стивен Дойг убедился, что ведущие производители Германии остаются лидерами мирового уровня История европейского фарфора тесно связана с именем Иоганн Фридрих Беттгер: именно этого химика, родом из Германии, многие источники считают отцом «хрупкого золота». В начале 18 века он начал проводить многочисленные эксперименты, стараясь вывести формулу этого материала, поскольку в Китае и Японии детали производственного процесса хранились в строжайшем секрете. Плоды его труда пожинала компания Meissen, основанная в городе Майсен в 1710 году. Все свое внимание она сосредоточила вокруг этого нового продукта, который вскоре стал одной из основных статей немецкого экспорта. Наследие самого Беттгера можно рассмотреть во франкфуртском Музее фарфора (Porzellan Museum), подразделении Исторического музея. Но не отказывайте себе в удовольствие приобрести более современные образцы старинного искусства в качестве сувениров. Причем в магазинах Франкфурта можно найти как копии фарфоровой утвари из дома Габсбургов, так и вещи в духе 21 века. Символично, что на эмблеме Meissen изображены скрещенные мечи: это напоминание о том, как тщательно компания защищала свой эксклюзивный метод производства. Серьезная программа

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подготовки мастеров и в наши дни гарантирует высочайшие стандарты лепки и росписи, а каждый сотрудник обязательно проходит трехлетнее обучение. А затем, уже в процессе работы, профессионалы Meissen стремятся постоянно расширять возможности своего ремесла. Это находит свое отражение и в изысканной отделке, и в богато декорированной росписи столовой посуды, фигурок и других произведений. В творческих поисках Meissen не ограничивает себя и сотрудничает с современными художниками. В результате выходят стильные коллекции в духе 21 века с живой цветовой палитрой и интересной отделкой. Изысканные чайные сервизы, например, приобрели переливающиеся металлические оттенки и архитектурные прямые линии. Следуя традиции опережать ожидания, этот фарфоровый дом в прошлом году выпустил первую коллекцию одежды. Ее дизайнеру Фриде Вейер удалось передать характерное для фарформа Meissen внимание к деталям.

Nymphenburg – еще один крупный игрок на этом поле. Он гордится королевским происхождением, и в этом смысле соседство ее штаб-квартиры с мюнхенским дворцом Нимфенбург символично. Компания Nymphenburg была основана баварским королем в 1747 году, и любовь к истории прослеживается во всем, что она делает. Например, оборудование на фабрике до сих пор приводится в действие с помощью водяной тяги, а все произведения создаются на гончарном круге или вручную. Процесс росписи, декорирования и глазировки также не претерпел значительных изменений. Оригинальную вещь под маркой Nymphenburg легко узнать по характерной геральдической эмблеме. Но при этом, даже если технологии, применяемые Nymphenburg, остаются неизменными, это не мешает компании идти в ногу со временем. Так, в ее ассортименте появляются коллекции в современном стиле, в том числе – в результате совместного творчества с Карлом Лагерфельдом, Миуччей Прада и Вивьенн Вествуд. Здесь

не боятся экспериментировать с классикой, отсюда необычные объемные изображения животных на тарелках и чашах в серии Animal Bowl или фарфоровые черепа, декорированные насекомыми и цветами. Все это - прекрасный образец того, как старинные ремесленные техники и актуальный дизайн могут уживаться прямо на ваших полках. meissen.com, nymphenburg.com 86: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с tax free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270,000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.

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2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €25 и сэкономьте до 14.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.

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42: Sustainable Style 可持续时尚

德国成熟的绿色环保体系，推动时尚业将优雅姿态 与生态友好相结合。Gwyneth Holland报道 在德国，以工艺、创新、可持续与品质为本的小众品 牌，正在开创奢侈时尚界的新未来。这些新理念产 品与环保时装的刻板形象相去甚远——没有臃肿的 轮廓、麻布或者四处垂挂的小装饰。取而代之的是 以创新材质、精选配件与时髦线条著称的可持续时 尚。 德国有着悠久的绿色消费传统，从狂热的回收 者、清洁能源活动家到全国各地的公平贸易倡导者， 然而直到近期，该国的环保之风才刮到时尚界。 “在 德国，有机食品店的数量几乎与超市同样多。可持续 发展如今已成为日常共识，自然它也开始影响时尚 界， ”设计师Isabell de Hillerin表示。 当 创 新 环 保 设 计 浮 上 水 面 之 际 ，德 国 早 已 在 天 然 纺 织 品 领 域 奠 定 了 坚 实 基 础 。在 7 0 年 代 ，生 态 先 驱 H e s s n a t u r 、D i s a n a 与 E n g e l 成 立了 I n t e r n a t i o n a l Ve r b a n d d e r Naturtextilwirtschaft（国际天然纺织行业协会 或 IVN），致力于为面料制定全球有机纺织品标准 （GOTS），这个现今时常可见的标签。 环 保设 计师们已默 默 无闻地努力多年，但如 今可持续时尚获得的大部分关注，来自于人们对于 低价快时尚的实际成本的关注。在孟加拉国 Rana Plaza发生的工厂坍塌惨剧，让人们开始关注廉价服 饰需求所引发的问题。从那时起，众多消费者开始试 图为自己的服装购买行为负责。 创 立于2 0 0 9 年 的可持 续 时尚先 驱 项目 G r e en s how r o om 与 E t h ic a l Fa s h ion S how Berlin，致力于帮助设计师传播可持续时尚理念。 globalblue.com

该展览开始只有16个品牌参加，如今则超过120个。 “ 今天，社会各界都对绿色时尚投以极大关注，其中 包括消费者、媒体、政客、各利益相关者、设计师与 企业， ”Greenshowroom项目的创始人 Magdalena Schafrin表示。 以自身的道德或环保标准马首是瞻，并非新一 代可持续设计师的工作方式——可持续性应被自然 地、天衣无缝地融入服饰中。设计师提高面料的品 质，设计的优雅性与产品系列的独创性——这一切 都是可持续的体现。 “我们不强制推广可持续性， ”de Hillerin 表示。 “我们希望人们购买让他们看起来与 感觉良好的产品。如果我们能这样对待可持续性， 就能发展出普适的可持续时尚。” Folkdays 等品牌通过道德采购将可持续性融 入生产。Folkdays团队与发展中国家的职业工匠合 作，将高品质成品引入欧洲市场。然而这并非慈善项 目——Folkdays的奢华产品线包括来自玻利维亚和 秘鲁的软毯，克什米尔和尼泊尔的顶级羊绒，来自泰 国村庄传承数代的银饰，与柬埔寨专业编织者制造 的纱线扎染织物。每件产品都使用当地素材制成， 都有着自然的配色与迷人的原产地。 “追 求 富 有历史与 涵 义 的事 物 是 一 大 趋 势， ”Folkdays的联合创始人 Lisa Jaspers指出。 “越 来越多的人们开始追求独特性，为了让自己的着装 感觉上并不泯然众人，而手工艺制品天生就是独特 的。” 可持续时尚的独具匠心不只在于其植根于传统 技艺，同样也体现在制衣的创新手法。总部位于柏 林的品牌Luxaa采用高科技面料，如 Tyvek（100% 可回收）创造出摩登之极的环保奢华。 “将创新的 材质与技术，融入可持续性、功能性与耐久性，就 是我 的最大 志向， ”L u x a a 品牌创 始人与设 计师 Anne Trautwein 表示。今日涌现的德国小众环保 品牌带来了一种新型的奢侈— —其并不基于品牌 盛名或 IT 手袋，而是体现在产品的出处、品质与道 德性上。 “对越来越多人而言，奢侈品就是在良好 的环境下，以伟大的工艺制成的产品， ”Hillerin 指 出。Trautwein补充道，人们现在买得“更少但更精” ，并期望买到的产品是漂亮、品质上乘与可持续利 用的。她坚信道德消费意识的崛起意味着“可持续奢 侈品将日益成为身份的象征”。 绿色与可持续设计师们已突破自家店铺与顾客 的界限——他们也在教导大品牌如何以时髦奢华的 手法打造可持续时尚。Schaffrin 指出，可持续设计 师们对主流时尚的影响力越来越大。 “这一变化显而 易见，传统时装品牌正认真推行可持续发展举措，而 几乎所有的企业如今都设有企业社会责任部门。总 而言之，生态时尚正走向大众市场——这是一项伟 大的成就。” isabelldehillerin.com, folkdays.com, luxaa.de

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48: The New Cool 酷感新趋势 总部位于慕尼黑的 Oska 以耳目一新的手法设计女 装，声势日益壮大。《SHOP》撰稿人 Josh Sims向 品牌创始人Helmut Bayer讨教成功秘方 这是一家在全球拥有 70 间门店、市值 2500万欧元 的企业。德国服装公司 Oska 毅然决然地在竞争中 求生存，并赢得了那些不被时尚界重视的女性群体 的芳心。 “我想说我们顾客的平均年龄都在 50岁以 上——当你到了那个年纪，穿既漂亮又看上去不那 么滑稽，古 板或太年轻的衣服实在不是件容易的 事。”Helmut Bayer说，正是她于1997与几位合伙人 (很久之前已将其股份买断)创立了Oska，并在今日与 同僚设计师Stefanie Schmitz共同运营着公司。 “这 也决定了我们只针对小众市场。” 这是Bayer 一直在小心翼翼培育的市场，其主要 通过近距离了解他的客户：思想解放的新型中年妇 女，可能也没有孩子，Bayer 半开玩笑地说，离婚的 和未婚的，脱胎换骨和“准备开始新生活的” ，根据他 的原话。 “我在熟悉的女性身上一次又一次地见过这 样的发展模式。相对于男性，女性在生命过程中往 往会经历更剧烈的变化，并且她们对于自己在生活 中追求什么有非常清晰的概念。” 并且 这 点 从 她 们 的 着 装 中 就 可 看出 端 倪 。 没有一 件 O s k a 服 饰 是 贴 有任 何外 外露 标 牌 的。“你 年 轻 的 时 候 可 能 会 喜 欢 商 标 — — 看 看 Abercrombie＆Fitch ——但是当你到了一定年纪 之后，不会执着于某个品牌，而是更想要表达自己 的个性， ”Bayer 说。 “人的年龄越大，就变得越有个 性，越有自己的主见。”同样的，时尚的季节性变化 也与此无关。如果你想追逐 T台时尚，就去别处寻 找：Oska的每一季产品，如Bayer所言， “不是一本新 书，而是一部续写中的作品里的一个新篇章”。 品牌的每个系列都首先以面料为本：从颜色、质 地到垂坠程度。Oska与其捷克 Prostejov 的主要生 产商 Pro Len紧密合作；该地区不仅有自己的纺织 传统，其地理位置也使其能搜寻到其他欧洲制造商 苦寻而不得的面料，尤其是高品质的皮革，麻料与丝 绸。Oska在那里也拥有自己的染色工坊，有能力进 行复杂的成衣染色（会产生更鲜艳丰富并随时间自 然褪去的色调），也使其很难被仿制。因此，Bayer 承认，Oska的定价并不便宜——但是，他指出，你所 得到的产品必定物有所值 。 不难发现，尽管Bayer坚称自己位于慕尼黑的公 司是一家时尚企业，但他的很多做法都与行业标准 不符。 “这是一种相当老派的制衣方式，我想，也与今 日的高街量产品牌大相径庭， ”这位曾经的时尚机构 销售代表表示，他建立公司的原因是为自己销售服

装的极低品质感到沮丧。 “我们的每个系列都是从面 料生发而来的。事实上，时尚界的驱动力就来自于面 料商，而并非设计师。就像低劣的钢材造不出高品质 的汽车，低品质的面料也生产不出高质量的衣服。 面料对衣服可被如何剪裁、如何清洗、如何耐久都是 至关重要的。如果将衣服与德国人相比较，那就是同 样强调质量与可靠性。” Bayer同样也执意让自己的衣服符合道德标准 （“我不会选择在孟加拉国生产，譬如说——否则对 自己无法交代， ”他表示）与可持续性，尽管这不是他 会时常突出的东西。 “购买‘绿色’产品只是一点小进 步。根本上而言我们应该少买。我们压根就不应该 买。但谁愿意听到这些言论呢？这对于企业发展也 不是好事， ”他笑着说。 幸而企业发展得不错：虽然他想在五年内实现 营业额翻倍，以此为Oska高速发展中的店铺复制成 本买单，但仍旧将年增长率定在50%左右，这对于这 样一家定位巧妙的公司而言似乎是个轻松的目标。 在这种情况下，人们或许不禁要问，为何 Bayer 还不 尝试将自己的成功模式用于男装，而不是局限于目 前的胶囊系列。毕竟，这是公司创始时定名Oskar的 初衷。 “我们已经做了一些尝试但效果并不理想”他表 示。 “同一年龄阶段的男性喜欢非常简单的设计，他 们会固执己见并反复购买同样的东西。我很喜欢这 点——而我正身处时装界。” oska.com

54: Breaking The Mould 突破常规 德国瓷器长久以来总是走在创新的前端，该国的瓷 器品牌也始终保持着国际领先地位，Stephen Doig 报道

Johann Friedrich Böttger是一个在欧洲瓷器界响 当当的名字；各界人士都将Böttger视为当代瓷器之 父。1700年，德国化学家开始试验如何制作瓷器，须 知其制造过程在原产地中国与日本都是讳莫如深的 秘密。1710年成立于迈森的同名公司Meissen，受益 于当地的劳动力资源，建立起这项在日后成为德国 出口主力的事业。 在法兰克 福的 Po r z e l l a n M u s e u m 可见到 Böttger留下的历史遗产，这是博物馆丰富藏品的一 部分，然而这座城市也同样为人们提供了投资瓷器 的诱人机会，这些瓷器摆放在21世纪装饰的家中，与 其陈列于哈布斯堡家族的住宅中同样合称。 Meissen 品牌徽章中交叉的双剑，恰如其分地 代表着其对制作工艺的严守。时至今日，品牌仍有 一套严格的培训计划，确保 Meissen 的工匠们产品 造型和绘制中符合最高标准，并经过为期三年的训

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练。Meissen 的工匠致力于突破瓷器工艺的界限， 将精致细节与繁复装饰赋予从餐具到人俑等各种产 品。 今日的Meissen产品线已扩张至包含当代艺术 家合作系列，以及时髦的摩登系列，并引入生动色 调与装饰工艺；朴素洁净的陶瓷茶具已被闪烁的彩 虹金属色调与建筑线条所取代。为保持品牌对创新 的专注，确保其走在时代前端，公司在去年推出了由 Frida Weyer 领衔的时装线——Meissen瓷器对工 艺与细节的专注，同样被灌注到服装系列中。 作为总部毗邻慕尼黑宁芬堡宫的品牌，宁芬堡 瓷器与皇室的纽带是品牌不可或缺的组成部分。宁 芬堡皇家瓷器由巴伐利亚王室在1747年成立，对历 史的追溯仍是今日品牌运作的核心。例如，宁芬堡皇 家瓷器工厂中的设备都是由本地水力发电驱动，所 有产品都使用辘轳或手工成型，手绘、装饰与上釉的 过程无比细致。人们可通过品牌家徽与盾形纹章鉴 别出宁芬堡原产瓷器。 宁芬堡 皇家瓷器的传统工艺与艺术性 始 终 不 变 ，但 公 司 同 样 与 时 并 进 ，引 入 创 新 系 列 并 与 一 众 明 星 合 作 推 出 产 品 ，其 中 包 括 K a rl L ager feld 、M iuccia Prada 与 Viv ien ne Westwood。品牌不吝为产品注入新鲜活力，从碗碟 上布满3D动物形象的奇趣 Animal Bowls系列，到 装饰着昆虫与花朵的瓷制人头骨——从而历久弥新 的工艺与时髦华丽的设计，可以携手出现在您的展 示柜中。 meissen.com, nymphenburg.com

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86: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球，尊享退税 当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时， 环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free Shopping）为您节约购物开销。 每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只 是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联 （Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税 过程：

1. 消费购物 无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格 （Global Blue Tax Free Form），并记得保存小 票。 2. 申请退税 当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台 请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联 的退税点领取您的退税款。 联系方式：

taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费€25并且节约高达购买价格14.5%的税。请 注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除管 理手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取 现金退税手续费。

98 | P RO D U C T S

Souvenir

STEP FORWARD Family-run shoemaker Melvin & Hamilton was founded in 1988 in Heidelberg by Rajab Choukair and is overseen today by his sons, Karim and Olivier, who inherited their father’s passion for footwear and leather. The brothers design the collections based on traditional shoemaking methods, using only the highestquality leathers, which are hand-coloured to achieve a unique efect each time. A range of colours and fnishes combined with distinctive Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

details such as decorative stitching, laserprinted patterns and hand-milled soles, ensure that every pair of Melvin & Hamilton shoes is imbued with character. These lace-up men’s derby shoes are a perfect example; the contrasting coloured panels strike a beautiful balance between tradition and modernity. gl Melvin & Hamilton derby shoes, €150, Roland Schuhe, Skyline Plaza, Europa-Allee 6, 60327 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 9776 7908, melvin-hamilton.com

www.omegawatches.de

THE DARK SIDE OF THE MOON Die Astronauten der Apollo 8 waren die ersten Menschen, die die dunkle Seite des Mondes mit eigenen Augen sehen konnten. Die Co-Axial Speedmaster aus schwarzer Keramik [ZrO2] ehrt den Pioniergeist, der sie an einen Ort brachte, an dem noch nie ein Mensch zuvor gewesen war. Sie ist eine Hommage an jene Speedmaster Professional Chronographen, die von allen Apollo Astronauten getragen wurden. OMEGA ist stolzer Partner der großen Menschheitsträume.

OMEGA Boutique • Goetheplatz 5 • Frankfurt am Main