SHOP Hamburg AW14

Page 1


If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind. For more than 135 years, the name

customers express when they purchase

“WEMPE” has stood for the utmost

jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of

expertise in the art of making jewellery

jewellery uphold international standards

and timepieces. We offer a unique

and are born in our own atelier. This is

selection of valuable treasures at 28

true for unusual one-of-a-kind items

Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are

as well as for our diverse assortment

especially proud because for more than

of classic pieces with brilliant-cut

a century we have been privileged to

diamonds. And a century-old friendship

contribute to the grand feelings that our

links us with the world’s foremost watch

We accept all credit cards.

www.wempe.com


manufactories. You will find WEMPE

will always be available to meet your

showrooms at the loveliest locations

individual needs. We cordially invite you

in great European metropolises, New

to discover an abundance of interesting

York City and in Beijing. Each shop also

new items and exclusive special models

offers service or advice whenever you

at one of Europe’s leading jewellers. We

require it, so you can be certain that we

look forward to your visit! Hamburg, Jungfernstieg 8, T +49.(0)40.33 44 88 24 hamburg.jungfernstieg@wempe.de Hamburg, Spitalerstraße 28, from Oct. 2014: Mönckebergstraße 19 T +49.(0)40.33 44 88 22 hamburg.spit@wempe.de HAMBURG LONDON PARIS NEW YORK


Willkommen bei Bucherer, ein Schweizer Traditionsunternehmen und eines der führenden Häuser für Uhren und Schmuck in Europa. In unserem Hamburger Geschäft am Jungfernstieg erwartet Sie eine große Auswahl an Luxus-Uhrenmarken und exquisiter Schmuckstücke sowie ein erstklassiger Service.

Welcome to Bucherer, a Swiss company with a long tradition and one of the leading establishments for watches and jewellery in Europe. In our Hamburg store directly at Jungfernstieg you will find a broad selection of luxury watch brands and exquisite jewellery, as well as first-class service.

und viele mehr and many more

Hamburg Jungfernstieg 25


WATCHES JEWELRY GEMS Berlin Dusseldorf Frankfurt Hamburg Munich Nuremberg | Basel Bern Davos Geneva Interlaken Lausanne Locarno Lugano Lucerne St. Gallen St. Moritz Zermatt Zurich | Vienna | Paris | bucherer.com








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CHRIST JEWELLERS AND WATCHMAKERS IN HAMBURG. 2x Alstertal Einkaufszentrum ¡ MĂśnckebergstraĂ&#x;e 18 ¡ Europa-Passage ¡ Elbe-Einkaufszentrum ¡ Spitaler StraĂ&#x;e 32 ¡ Wandsbek Quarree ¡ Phoenix-Center (Harburg) ¡ Eppendorfer LandstraĂ&#x;e 77 (inside Karstadt) CHRIST Juweliere und Uhrmacher seit 1863 GmbH, Kabeler StraĂ&#x;e 4, 58099 Hagen | CHRIST service line 0180/5 32 10 98 (â‚Ź 0.14/min. from a German landline; mobile phone prices max. â‚Ź 0.42/min.) | *price on request | ** white, small internal characteristics, good cut


Only at CHRIST CHRIST DIAMONDS Ring* 585/- gold with rhodolites and brilliant cut diamonds, together approx. 0.15 ct.**

Passion. Made in Germany. The CHRIST DIAMONDS Collection. Experience diamonds in a whole new way at over 200 CHRIST specialty stores throughout Germany.

www.christ.de


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Editor’s Letter Athens and Thessaloniki Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Buenos Aires Cologne Copenhagen Cyprus

Чехия Düsseldorf Estonia Frankfurt French Riviera

‫دليل ألانيا‬

德国指南

Welcome to Hamburg Even if you’ve visited Hamburg before, you may be interested to discover the story behind one of the city’s most famous creations, Montblanc’s classic Meisterstück pen – fnd out more in our feature on page 52. In this edition, we also explore the delights of Hamburg’s rich café culture (page 64) and celebrate local designer John Ribbe’s not-to-be-missed new handbag collection (page 30). SHOP is part of Global Blue, a Tax Free Shopping market leader, and publishes guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you everything you need to know about your chosen destination: the top global brands, the local favourites you shouldn’t miss and the essential stores, boutiques, restaurants and places to visit. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. It’s even easier to claim your tax savings with the Global Blue Card – signing up is free and you can fnd all the details on the website. And don’t forget to download the Global Blue mobile app! With this edition of SHOP, the Global Blue app and your Global Blue Card, you’re ready to enjoy the best that Hamburg has to ofer.

Emma Cheevers @环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

/globalblue

@GlobalBlue

/GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu

/globalblue

Gothenburg Hamburg Hanover Helsinki Area Holland Iceland Istanbul Italy Lake Saimaa Lebanon London Madrid Milan Munich Naples Nuremburg Oslo Paris Portugal Prague Riga Rimini and Riccione Rome Seoul Singapore Stockholm Stuttgart Switzerland Tokyo Vienna Vilnius /globalblue

ILLUSTRATION: PING ZHU

Руководство Германия


oyster perpetual datejust l ady 31


fashion | lifestyle | beauty HAMBURG MÖNCKEBERGSTRASSE

Welcome to Hamburg, the lifestyle capital of the north Enjoy your stay in a city where history and modernity go hand in hand. You will find the GALERIA Kaufhof shopping paradise in the heart of the city on Mönckebergstraße, right next to the main railway station. Visit GALERIA Kaufhof and be inspired by the wide variety of products from famous brand name manufacturers, the excellent service and the fabulous atmosphere. The traditional department store chain celebrates 2014 its 135th anniversary with special offers and events. If you come from a country outside the EU, you can even enjoy tax-free shopping at GALERIA Kaufhof! We look forward to seeing you.

Please scan the QR-code with your smartphone to get more information about your GALERIA store Hamburg, Mönckebergstrasse.


GALERIA Kaufhof... ... makes you fall in love with Germany

GALERIA Kaufhof GmbH, Leonhard-Tietz-Str. 1, 50676 Cologne

www.galeria.de


Beauty and more … visit Europe’s No. 1 perfumery! W E W I L L B E P L E A S E D TO W E LC O M E YO U TO T H E D O U G L A S W O R L D O F B E AU T Y I N H A M B U RG : • Neuer Wall 1–5, 040 - 343614 • Mönckebergstraße 8, 040 - 326734


Discover a perfumery tradition that dates back more than 100 years, and enjoy Europe’s largest assortment of leading beauty brands – from exclusive fragrances and luxury skin care to trendy color cosmetic products and fashion accessories. With 1,200 perfumeries in 18 countries, we are dedicated to providing excellent services and personal consultation to our customers.




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Contributors

PHOTO: Brad Clarke PHOTOgraPHy

IllUSTraTION: JaCk HUdSON

Jack Hudson Jack Hudson created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Hamburg. His artwork has previously been commissioned by Channel 4, Transport for London and Google Chrome, among others. His detailed and colourful approach makes him the perfect choice for this cover inspired by our feature about how to journey in style on page 46. It shows clued-up travellers at various stages of their trips. Read more about our illustrations at globalblue.com/ covers.

Clare Coulson Journalist Clare Coulson is the former fashion editor of the Daily Telegraph and former fashion director of Harper’s Bazaar, for which she is currently contributing editor. She also writes for publications from Net-A-Porter to InStyle. globalblue.com

Sally McIlhone As SHOP’s managing editor, Sally McIlhone is in touch with leading brands, creatives and writers around the world so she can stay on top of the latest styles and designs. Sally has contributed to ShortList, Stylist and Total Film online.

Stephanie Hirschmiller Stephanie Hirschmiller was previously web editor at Harper’s Bazaar UK, and contributes to wwd.com, Cartier Polo Magazine and the Evening Standard, among others. Her passions are fashion, zeitgeist and people.


bogner.com

Baden Baden · Berlin · düsseldorf · fr ankfurt · Garmisch-Partenkirchen hamBurG · innsBruck · kitzBühel · köln · münchen · new York · salzBurG st. moritz · stuttGart · sYlt · zermatt · zürich


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Shop Floor E DI TOR I A L Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Managing editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Jack Hudson Contributors Clare Coulson, Stephanie Hirschmiller Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Ruairidh Pritchard Features editor Stephen Doig City guide and lifestyle editor Verity Hogan Fashion and news editor Dominique Fenn Assistant fashion and market editor Ximena Daneri Assistant fashion and news editors Hannah Lewis, Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion assistant Gemma Latham Editorial intern Sammy Ha Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew Picture editor Dorcas Brown Assistant picture editors Kirsty Andrews, Sarah Beyts Picture assistants Grace Bird, Mónica Goya Picture intern Rubi Ali Artworker Adam Dhaliwal Artworking assistants Dionne Hélène, Ai-Lun Huang, Milkha Lala Artworking intern Hibba Sayeed

PU BL ISH I NG Publisher James Morris

Online editor Kirsty Welsh Online editorial assistant Katie Ramsingh Online assistants Marina Nelson, Emily Scrivener Commercial editor Justine Clifton Commercial artworking assistant Aaron Carline Commercial artworking interns George Trinick, Ellie Vigors Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese contributing editor Qingya He Chinese translators Xun Ji, Yin Shi, Mengjiao Qu, Chenguang Yi, Yi Zhang Chinese interns Yunhan Fang, Tiantian Liu Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok Associate Russian editor Daria Orlova Assistant Russian editor Kira Savchenko Russian editorial assistant Linda Blank Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Digital manager Eamonn Leacy Digital production manager Funmi Paul-Taiwo Online commercial editor Sally Ashley-Cound Project manager Bina Summan International digital marketing executive Nina Kobalia Digital marketing executive Wenhan Zhang Digital production assistant Paul Lecoanet Advertising and partnership manager Riccardo Canini Distribution and partnership manager Claudia Suárez Print Dane Consultancy GLOBA L BLU E GER M A N Y Vice president sales central Europe Thorsten Lind Country manager Jörg Schönbeck Marketing sales manager Michael Mauerhoff Sales manager Pino Dufter Marketing specialist Mareike Dieckmann Global Blue Germany, Vogelsanger Weg 38, 40470 Düsseldorf, info.de@globalblue.com Regional tourist office Hamburg Tourismus GmbH, Steinstrasse 7, 20095 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3005 1300, hamburg-tourism.de

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2014 Global Blue


Montblanc Star Classique and Hugh Jackman Crafted for New Heights Manufactured in Switzerland, the Star Classique Automatic, with its slim 8.9 mm 18 K red gold case and its ergonomically shaped case back, is a ďŹ ne companion for an elegant appearance. Visit and shop at Montblanc.com

Munich, Berlin, Cologne, Hamburg, DĂźsseldorf, Frankfurt, Stuttgart, Hannover


Hamburg, Mönckebergstraße Karstadt Warenhaus GmbH | Theodor-Althoff-Straße 2 | 45133 Essen


Fashion, Lifestyle & more Our branches in excellent downtown locations of most important German cities provide shoppers with a modern and comfortable environment which makes shopping an experience. Not only strong brands but also our outstanding advisory service and innovative events attract throngs of buyers. Enjoy your next shopping spree on the discovery journey through our store Karstadt Hamburg.


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Contents p.52

P rod u c t s 30 Check Out sHoP selects a standout piece from Hamburg this season 32 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories N ews 38 Shop Window one store not to be missed in Hamburg 40 News seasonal updates on shops, services and new products F e At u r e s 46 Cover Story: Good To Go From sleek luggage to the most comfortable clothing, it’s never been easier to travel in style, reports stephanie Hirschmiller 52 In Focus: Montblanc’s Meisterstück Pen How did a writing implement created in Hamburg 90 years ago become such a design classic? sally McIlhone investigates 58 Form And Function German fashion is known for being impeccably made – and this winter’s collections from the country’s top labels are all the better for it, says clare coulson Above: Montblanc car advertising, circa 1920s

exPerIeNce 64 Café Society Hamburg’s long-established cofee culture is well worth investigating, says Verity Hogan GuIde 69 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Hamburg, plus useful information for visitors esseNtIAls 80 How To Shop Tax Free the simple steps to saving money on your shopping t r A N s l At I oN s 81 Русский Перевод 85 美文翻译 89 PostcArd 90 sHoP writes home about Meissen


GANT STORES HAMBURG FL AGSHIP STORE NEUER WALL 80 AL STERTAL & ELBE-EINK AUFSZENTRUM & AIRPORT-AIRSIDE W W W.GANT.COM


30 | P RO D U C T S

Check Out

Added AttrActions the latest handbag collection from Hamburgborn fashion designer John ribbe features a range of tote-style bags with detachable etuis – mini pouches – in fun shapes such as fowers, hearts and eyeglasses that are perfect for holding mobile phones, make-up and keys. crafted from leathers sourced from italy, the bags and attachments are handmade in Belgium and available in a range of shapes, Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 80

colours and fnishes. this combination of tan-coloured leather with black crocodile attachments has an air of luxury that will stand the test of time. if you prefer something bolder there are also primary colours, monochrome and metallic silver options, so you can mix and match colours and shapes to suit your personal style. gl John Ribbe bag with detachable etuis, €705, John ribbe, Alter Wall 61, 20457 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 4419 1818, johnribbe.com * for map go to page 74


H A M B U RG K A I S E RGA L E R I E

G RO S S E B L E I C H E N 2 3 –27

+49 40 363296 E S C A DA . C O M


32 | P RO D U C T S

BOHEMIAN BRIGHTS Brighten up winter days with Eastern prints and pale pinks 1

1. Monki Anna kimono, €65, Monki, Mönckebergstrasse 22, 20095 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 2716 9740, monki.com 2. Acne Nicole gloves, €280, Acne, Bleichenbrücke 10, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 6360 7533, acnestudios.com

4. Michael Kors cosmetics, from €19.99, Douglas, Grosse Bleichen 36, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 346434, michaelkors.com

6. Bally Bletty boots, €950, Bally, Neuer Wall 53-55, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3609 1039, bally.com

5. Marc Cain hat, €54.90, Marc Cain, Neuer Wall 52, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3609 0189, marc-cain.com

7. Bulgari purse, €510, Bulgari, Neuer Wall 24, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3751 7351, bulgari.com

3. Louis Vuitton ring, €395, Louis Vuitton, Neuer Wall 37, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 344740, louisvuitton.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 80


PHOTO: PHOTO: (2) RedWOlf STudiO; (7) MauRO fabbiO STudiO

S H O P | 33

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globalblue.com 5

3 6

4

7


34 | P RO D U C T S

DUSKY SKIES

2

Misty blue and soft dove grey combine perfectly to create a vision of of-beat charm

3

1

5

4

1. Sisley dress, €86.95, Sisley, Kleine Rosenstrasse 14, 20095 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 7679 7116, sisley.com

3. Swarovski Stardust bracelet, €79, Swarovski, Mönckebergstrasse 7, 20095 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3009 2360, swarovski.com

2. Cos necklace, €25, Cos, Neuer Wall 19, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 2880 9909, cosstores.com

4. Cartier Tortue watch, €35,300, Cartier, Neuer Wall 22, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 349 6050, cartier.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 80

5. Gucci python boots, €2,750, Gucci, Neuer Wall 34, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 357 6330, gucci.com


P RO D U C T S | 35

RIGHT ON TIME

2

4

Travel light with the right luggage – just zip up and you’re ready to go

1

3

PHOTO: (2) CeSare GualdOni

5

1. Barbour Boorman hooded jacket, €199, Barbour, Grosse Bleichen 36, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3571 5920, barbour.com 2. Salvatore Ferragamo watch, €1,790, Salvatore Ferragamo, Neuer Wall 41, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 378 5360, ferragamo.com

globalblue.com

3. Faber-Castell Ambition Rhombus fountain pen, €70, Papeterie Bathelt, Europa-Passage, Ballindamm 40, 20095 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3039 2932, faber-castell.com 4. Hugo Boss backpack, €429, Hugo Boss, Neuer Wall 19, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 4191 3407, hugoboss.com

5. Rimowa Limbo Cabin Multiwheel case, size 52, €519, Rimowa, Mönckebergstrasse 16, 20095 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 333070, rimowa.de



shop calvinklein.com Levantehaus & Neuer Wall 15 - Hamburg


38 | N E W S

Shop Window

PAUL SMITH OPENS IN HAMBURG Quintessentially British designer Paul Smith has opened a boutique in Hamburg’s historic Altstadt district, his frst in Germany. The store occupies a 19th-century Biedermeier townhouse which has been carefully restored to preserve the subtle beauty of its classical features. Soft pastel walls and Persian rugs enhance marble pillars, decorative coving and tiled foors, tastefully juxtaposed with modern fxtures and furnishings refecting the brand’s penchant for bold design and bright colours. Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 80

The boutique carries menswear, womenswear, accessories and footwear, displayed in distinctively decorated rooms. Each and every Paul Smith shop is individual in its design, with an eclectic selection of art, objects, furniture and antiques available to discover and purchase in store. From beautifully tailored suits to uniquely patterned scarves, a visit to Paul Smith is an education in British innovation and design, and always sure to inspire. gl Paul Smith, Hohe Bleichen 15, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3501 5273, paulsmith.co.uk * for map go to page 72


G o l d e n Swo r d S C lu tC h

MEISSEN COUTURE庐 BOUTIqUE HaMBURg 路 alSTERaRkadEN 7 路 TElEfON: +49 40 35004868


40 | N E W S

SUITS YOU

PHOTO: ©GOrunway.cOM

The autumn/winter menswear collection from German fashion house Jil Sander remains true to the brand’s distinctive clean lines, sharp tailoring and minimalist aesthetics; high-sheen quilted fabrics in striking shades of deep plum and midnight blue provide slick options for winter suiting. Jacket designs cover a range of cuts and lengths, while slim-ft knitwear in place of shirting keeps the overall look modern, adding a relaxed and wearable edge to this elegant attire. No wonder this is the go-to label for understated yet stylish menswear. gl Jil Sander, Neuer Wall 43, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 374 1290, jilsander.com * for map go to page 74

READY TO GLOW Parisian skincare specialist Orlane has developed an innovative formula which acts at a cellular level to ‘reset’ cells and restore vigour to skin of all ages. B21 Extraordinaire contains 21 essential amino acids, extracted from organic pale iris stem cells, which aid the skin’s production of protein and collagen, resulting in frmer and more radiant skin. The formula also prepares cells so they respond more efectively to creams and serums for an optimal skincare regime. B21 Extraordinaire is available from beauty boutique Douglas, which has three stores in Hamburg, meaning perfect skin is fnally within easy reach. gl Douglas, Neuer Wall 1-5, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3344 8824, orlane.eu * for map go to page 74 Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 80


S H O P | 41

MIXED MATERIALS Let German fne jewellery label Konplott wash away your winter blues with this bright and beautiful statement necklace. Founded by designer Miranda Konstantinidou, the brand produces eye-catching, colourful jewellery made from hand-selected materials. As with this coral-coloured creation, every item is crafted from a wide variety of beads and stones sourced from across the world, and includes the old and the new, the natural and the hand-painted. Each piece of jewellery by Konplott is assembled by hand in limited numbers. hl Konplott, Poststrasse 29-33, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3501 5484, konplott.com * for map go to page 75

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) GünTer BrinkMann

TIME FOR WEMPE The story of Wempe began over 135 years ago with a young watchmaker named Gerhard Diedrich Wilhelm Wempe, whose eye for quality and skills in marketing soon got him noticed by powerful clients. His watch designs were beautiful and accomplished, and by 1907 his success had allowed him to open a fagship in Hamburg, from whence he soon expanded across Germany. Today the frm has stores and stockists across the world. The core values of beauty and quality have remained paramount within Wempe, which is still a family-run company to this day. It is one of Germany’s most prestigious watchmakers, and a timepiece by Wempe should be on every enthusiast’s wish list. hl Wempe, Jungfernstieg 8, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3344 8824, wempe.com * for map go to page 74 globalblue.com


42 | N E W S

SAY IT WITH DIAMONDS Having celebrated its 125th anniversary in 2013, Swiss brand Bucherer is one of the oldest purveyors of watches and fne jewellery in Germany. Handed down through three generations of the eponymous family, the house draws on its rich heritage for each design, incorporating its traditions and knowledge. Experts in precious metals and gems, Bucherer creates pieces of jewellery which are made to last and to be loved, skillfully manipulating the most exquisite materials. Treat that special someone to these glistening earrings. With rows of diamonds set into white gold, they catch the light at every turn. hl Bucherer, Jungfernstieg 25, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 343467, bucherer.com * for map go to page 74

A NEW KORS Few designers can boast such a career as Michael Kors. The American designer has come a long way from his beginnings in a small corner in New York’s Bergdorf Goodman store. As well as men’s and women’s ready-to-wear items, Michael Kors creates sought-after accessories, from fragrances to watches and bags. Look out for the Hamilton Traveller tote – perfect for jet-setters – in the newly opened store in Hamburg. Be sure to also pick up a pair of stylish aviator sunglasses, an absolute Kors classic. hl Michael Kors, Alstertal, Kritenbarg 4, 22391 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 8197 1590, destinationkors.com

SHOP THE WORLD Using our wealth of insider knowledge, we have created a smartphone app to help you to plan your trip. The app gives information on 45 cities in 22 countries – thousands of stores are listed and located on maps, with full contact details and a description of what each store sells. Our maps guide you right to the store and can also be downloaded for offline use enabling you to create your own itinerary. You can also sign up for the Global Blue Card and, once you’re logged in the My Tax Refund wallet becomes available, allowing you to track

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 80

pending refunds. The app is available in Chinese, English and Russian, and includes a Tax Refund Calculator to tell you how much you’ll save on every purchase you make in every different country you visit. There are also instructions on how to use Currency Choice, our service that allows you to pay in your home currency. globalblue.com Download the Global Blue guide from the App Store or Play Store


It’s more fun, when it’s tax-free!

Grand Gourmet

Life tastes great.

Premium One Cromargan®

Knife set 5 pieces instead of 384,75*

Cookware set 4 pieces

289,–

instead of 496,95*

399,– *sum of the prices

Made in Germany

WMF Stores Hamburg www.wmf.de/flialen

Mönckebergstr. 13, Tel. 040/331991 Europapassage, Tel. 040/30392969 Alstertal Einkaufszentrum, Tel. 040/69208261


TOMMY HILFIGER STORE POSTSTRASSE 9 – 11 HAMBURG



46 | F E AT U R E S

PHOTO: XXXXXXX

Good 888

888 /

888

Above: English caption xxxxx qui ofciducius ma nit fuga. Faccus in coreratus nistora nat quam aborecepere, et modi quis cum facil


S H O P | 47

to go From the leading luggage to the most comfortable clothing, Stephanie Hirschmiller provides a guide to travelling in style The contemporary world voyager has a range of options, but if one label epitomises stylish travel, then it surely has to be Louis Vuitton. The luxury luggage brand dates back to 1854 and has become known the world over for its signature fat-bottomed trunks. These days the label is also famous for its line-up of contemporary bags, such as the Speedy, Alma and Never Full. Louis Vuitton’s new designer Nicolas Ghesquière, who created Balenciaga’s bestselling Lariat bag in his former role, has tapped into Louis Vuitton’s heritage to create this season’s ‘It’ bag, the Petite-Malle, a miniature handbag version of the house’s original monogrammed trunk. Above: Russian caption xxxxx qui offciducius ma nit fuga. Faccus in coreratus nistora nat quam aborecepere, et modi q

89

81 /

85


48 | F E AT U R E S

When it comes to dressing for the journey, Louis Vuitton’s Icons capsule collection is a good place to start. This season the regularly updated line is inspired by the style of the French architect and designer Charlotte Perriand, who combined utility with beauty. Capes – which were classic accessories during the golden age of travel in the early 20th century – are enjoying a renaissance, and among the Icons clothing items for autumn/ winter 2014/15 are woollen ponchos, as well as reversible check coats with camel interiors.

Dolce & Gabbana has created a fairy-tale cape and Valentino’s features quirky forest animals and ethereal butterfies, while Burberry has blanket-style ponchos and Saint Laurent focuses on abbreviated 1960s shapes. For fat shoes, among the best options are horse-bit loafers from Gucci or Tod’s. And if you’re preparing for a long-haul fight, Madeleine Thompson – who divides her time between London and Hong Kong – has created luxurious travel slippers in cashmere. In fact, she has thought about everything to make the journey as enjoyable as possible, with a range that includes pyjamas and a blanket, both in cashmere, an eye mask and, best of all, a cashmere and silk pillowcase which will no doubt improve the comfort of the pillow provided by your airline. Penny Klein and Heidi Gosman, the stylish duo behind go-to swimwear label Heidi Klein, are no strangers to international travel (the label’s resort 2015 campaign was shot in the Previous: Madeleine Thompson autumn/winter 2014/15

Above (from top): Valentino buterfy cape; Louis Vuiton Petite-Malle bag, both autumn/winter 2014/15

PHOTOS: ©GOrunway.cOM

There’s everything to make the journey as enjoyable as possible, from cashmere pyjamas to eye masks



50 | F E AT U R E S

The modern global traveller has a range of suitcase options: traditionalist, hi-tech contemporary, even custom made

British Virgin Islands). The women’s advice to those who will be enjoying the sun this season is to pack two reversible bikinis (such as Heidi Klein’s São Paulo and Jaipur designs) and mix and match them. The sandals from Ancient Greek Sandals, a breakout brand set up by Christina Martini, the former Balenciaga and Louis Vuitton accessories designer, have been seen on the feet of women including Jessica Alba and Candice Swanepoel. The label’s shoes are all handmade in Greece and can be hot stamped with your initials. To help plan your visit, if you’re not having a digital detox, Martini recommends the app Like a Local, which has been given fve stars by Mashable, a leading technology website. ‘It helps avoid tourist traps and allows you to discover hidden gems,’ she says. The jet-

setting South African luxury jewellery designer Kirsten Goss can never aford to be of-grid for long and relies on the Monster Powercard, a portable device for recharging iPhones and iPads. ‘It’s got an unbelievable level of power and has got me out of too many sticky situations,’ she laughs. And fnally, we turn to the suitcase. The traditionalist’s choice would be an item from the British company Globe-Trotter, whose pieces are handmade to order in England and are crafted from vulcanised fbreboard. If in London, take time to visit the company’s recently launched fagship store in Mayfair where you can view its new Albemarle collection in caramel and red leather which is exclusive to the store. For something thoroughly contemporary, consider the multiwheel Rimowa Titanium. Goss bought a set

Above (from lef): Madeleine Thompson autumn/winter 2014/15; Ancient Greek Sandals Flash Colour collection, spring/summer 2014


PHOTO: © DAviD ATlAn

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of three of these cases some 10 years ago: ‘They have been bashed, thrown and hauled around the world and still see me through,’ she maintains. Perhaps the ultimate in luxury travel accessories is an innovation from Moynat. Conceived in Paris by Pauline Moynat in 1849, these custom-made trunks ft the contours of a car’s boot and can be colour matched with the vehicle’s exterior. The company’s new artistic director, Ramesh Nair, is a former Hermès designer, so look out for re-imaginings of these must-have items. With these tips for a stylish and comfortable trip, a bon voyage is undoubtedly assured louisvuitton.com, madeleine-thompson.com, heidiklein.com, ancient-greek-sandals.com, globetrotter1897.com, moynat.com Above (from top): Moynat’s trunks can be custom made to ft the contours of a car boot; Moynat autumn/winter 2014/15


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IN FOCUS:

Montblanc’s Meisterstück Pen Montblanc’s famous fountain pen has been a design classic since it was launched 90 years ago. Sally McIlhone looks at the reasons for its enduring appeal

In 1924, the humble fountain pen was transformed into an object of desire. This was the year Montblanc launched its now-iconic Meisterstück writing instrument, a pen that’s been used by every statesman from Barack Obama to Nelson Mandela.

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The name comes from a long-running German tradition whereby any craftsperson has to produce a Meisterstück – or ‘masterpiece’ – to demonstrate their skills and be admitted into the relevant professional body or guild. As Christian Rauch, Montblanc’s managing Opposite: Montblanc Meisterstück 149 fountain pen nib in rose gold, 90 Years Collection


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director of writing instruments, explains, ‘We liked this idea so much that it was decided that Montblanc would apply this spirit of the Meisterstück to everything, whether it be writing instruments, leather goods or watches.’ Once Montblanc had created its ‘masterpiece’ pen, the company was understandably reluctant to reinvent the design to any great extent. After all, why mess with perfection? ‘The last real design change was at the beginning of the 1950s,’ Rauch explains. ‘Since then we have made small alterations; for example, we improved the way they work on fights. It’s like looking at the Coca-Cola logo, which seems to have been the same for ages but is actually not.’ In terms of the look and feel of the pen, however, little has changed. ‘If you ask someone to draw a fountain pen, from Nigeria to Paris it will always look like a Meisterstück, and that’s why we stick so closely to that shape,’ Rauch points out. Careful thought goes into any proposed modifcation. ‘For the 90-year anniversary we created a version in rose gold Above (clockwise from lef): historic photograph of the Montblanc factory; Meisterstück Le Grand rollerball and fountain pen in rose gold, 90 Years Collection; managing director of writing instruments, Christian Rauch


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for the frst time. The Meisterstück comes in four sizes and the biggest, the 149, we usually never touch. But this time we made a version in rose gold and we discussed it for more than a year – with the board, with external consultants, with our friends from Richemont [the Swiss luxury-goods group of which Montblanc is now a part] … Finally we did it and we love it – but it was a big decision for us.’

The company is reluctant to reinvent the design to any great extent. After all, why mess with perfection?

It’s because of this reluctance to make vast changes that the Meisterstück has stood the test of time. ‘It became a real luxury icon, and there aren’t many of those. There’s the Trinity de Cartier ring, the face of the Rolex Oyster watch, the Chanel No5 perfume bottle … maybe 10 to 15 items that are really recognised all over the world.’ Now that the Meisterstück has entered this hall of fame, Montblanc is keen to ensure that’s where it remains. For Montblanc, part of that is making sure the Meisterstück is technically perfect. ‘With a regular Meisterstück, there are around 100 diferent working steps; the nib alone takes 35,’ explains Rauch. After a thorough set of quality controls – by eye, by magnifying glass, by computer measuring – the fnished handmade pen then goes through a crucial fnal check. In a soundproofed room, trained members of staf write with each one; as Rauch puts it, the testers ‘experience the soul of the writing instrument’ by how it feels and sounds. The Meisterstück was one of the frst writing instruments to be made to last;


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because of this the brand is respectful of every piece, whether it was made in 1924 or 2004. ‘We always said that the Meisterstück should be meant for life and be passed on to the next generation. This is very untypical; usually with a pen, you use it and when it’s broken you throw it away. This was the world before Montblanc came along, and it’s still the world of pens in most cases.’ This pride in its products is clear in every aspect of Montblanc’s aftercare. ‘We make our products to live for ever, and we also repair them, no matter how old they are,’ says Rauch. ‘We have a strict policy here; if you send us a Montblanc from 1941 we will repair it with materials from 1941. For example, the piston of a fountain pen today is made out of silicon; in 1941 it would have been cork, so we do the repair with a cork piston.’ Given such attention to quality, the Meisterstück seems set to be as desirable and famous in another 90 years as it is now montblanc.com Above (from top): Montblanc car advertising, circa 1920s; atention to detail and quality is at the heart of the company’s ethos



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Form German manufacture enjoys an international reputation for precision – and this extends to its fashion brands. This winter’s collections from the country’s top labels are all the better for it, says Clare Coulson

Function


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and


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Fashion is more global than it has ever been, yet national characteristics prevail. The Americans excel at luxe sportswear, no-one produces such beautiful leather as the Italians and Paris remains the destination for utterly chic and feminine style. And, while the idea of German precision is frequently discussed in relation to everything from cutting-edge technology to supercars, it can be applied equally to the country’s fashion labels. Practical, immaculately designed and manufactured, always functional: German brands are starting to celebrate their innate pragmatism and their timing couldn’t be better. Fashion is experiencing a dramatic sea-change as luxury brands everywhere realise that what women really need in their closets are real clothes; timeless building blocks that look good and are easy to wear. Take, for example, Jason Wu’s debut collection for Hugo Boss. Wu, who is best known for his utterly frivolous, incredibly luxurious cocktailwear, wasn’t perhaps the most obvious choice for a brand renowned

PHOTO: © GOrunway.cOM

More than a few designers in Germany are rethinking how to fuse pragmatism with high fashion

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for its pin-sharp masculine tailoring. Yet the marriage has only served to highlight the strengths of the German brand. Ahead of his autumn/winter debut Wu alluded to the brand’s studied perfectionism, jokingly referring to the unapologetically modern Hugo Boss HQ in Metzingen as ‘the campus’. Yet that sense of German precision is clear in Wu’s clothes: the sleekest double-faced cashmere coats, Previous: Strenesse autumn/winter 2014/15


PHOTO: © GOrunway.cOM

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circled at the waist with a neat black military belt; the neat trouser suits with immaculately tailored boyish jackets and gamine tailored trousers; and the plush knitted capes sitting high on Wu’s models’ shoulders before swooping down behind, which look warm yet eminently practical. Wu isn’t the only designer rethinking how to fuse pragmatism with high fashion. Escada’s latest Escada Sport edition is packed with equally practical pieces. Fur jackets are cut close to the body and cinched with belts; parkas or gilets with fur hoods ofer a cosy but lightweight way to wrap up in winter; glossy coats and jackets are insulated with lightweight quilting and padding. All are paired with fat, boyish shoes designed to be functional yet super chic. At Strenesse it’s a similar story, with sporty, fur-trimmed lightweight parkas and jackets providing warmth over sleek day dresses and leggings. Snug jackets are ofered with insulating fur across the body and knit on the sleeves. And, just as at Hugo Boss, the sleek, modern trouser suit reigns supreme, valued for Above (clockwise from lef): Hugo Boss cashmere coat; Hugo Boss catwalk show; Escada Sport; Escada Sport Manteau jacket, all autumn/winter 2014/15


PHOTO: © MCM/Dan JaCkSOn

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its practicality but cut to look super-stylish, with slouchy trousers in palest dove grey, charcoal or soft rose beige. Accessories get the practical treatment too. Strenesse tops its clean-cut looks with eminently wearable cross-body envelope bags. At Munich-based MCM, creative director Michael Michalsky’s sumptuous totes have been designed with women’s working lives at the forefront of the design process; separate compartments are incorporated for tech gadgets such as laptops and iPads, while rucksacks are designed with individual pockets in which to compartmentalise possessions. But it’s perhaps in sportswear where German precision and tech know-how mix most potently. The country’s world-class performance sportswear brands, from Adidas and Bogner to Porsche Design and Schofel,

lead the way when it comes to combining fashion with extreme sportswear. Adidas was able to show of all its latest developments when it dressed the British team at the 2014 Winter Olympics in Sochi. The brand supplied ‘heat pants’, self-heating garments that ensure the optimum temperature for athletes during their warm-up sessions, and Powerweb suits made with a thermoplastic polyurethane that stores and returns elastic energy to reduce muscle fatigue. This may sound very sci-f, but don’t be surprised if the very same technology starts to appear in your wardrobe in the not-toodistant future. And you can bet it will be German brands who ofer it frst hugoboss.com, escada.com, strenesse.com, mcmworldwide.com, adidas.com, bogner.com, porsche-design.com, schofel.com

Above (from lef): MCM; Strenesse cross-body envelope bag, both autumn/winter 2014/15


Leading WomensWear Brands and CoLLeCtions HamBurg aLstertaL-einkaufszentrum Monday Through SaTurday 10 aM - 8 pM HamBurg mรถnCkeBergstrasse 15 Monday Through SaTurday 10 aM - 8 pM


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Café SoCiety Hamburg’s cofee shops range from artisanal venues serving the perfect espresso to themed cafes ofering an array of sweet treats. Verity Hogan takes a break at some of the city’s best

As the world’s second largest importer of cofee, Germany has clearly fully embraced café culture. Cofee was introduced into the country in the late 17th century, with the opening of the frst cofee houses where traders, the wealthy and the educated met to discuss the matters of the day while enjoying a cup of the stimulating new drink, but it remained a luxury until much more recently. Today, cofee consumption has spread to all sections of German society. Cofee is the country’s most popular drink and Germans drink 150 litres of it each per year on average. Kafee und Kuchen, the practice of pausing for a cup of cofee and piece of cake between lunch and dinner, is an important part of German life, although it has become more of a weekend activity in recent years. Hamburg’s coastal setting has made it one of the leading trading and distribution points for cofee within Germany. As a result, the town is home to an array of cafés, cofee roasteries, and even museums dedicated to the bean. globalblue.com


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PHOTO: MALTE GOY

Vju As its name suggests, Vju café ofers visitors spectacular views across Hamburg’s skyline. The café is set atop a former energy bunker in Wilhelmsburg and makes the most of its location with foor-to-ceiling windows and a wrap-around terrace. The menu of light bites and sweet treats provides a pleasant distraction from the view; be sure to try a wafe, available in a range of favours including chocolate, apple cinnamon and amaretto. The cofee served is similarly worthy of note and all produced using beans from the bunker’s own roastery, Waterkant. Vju, Neuhöfer Strasse 7, 21107 Hamburg, vju-hamburg.de


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S a lt k r å k a n

elBGolD the team at elbgold is passionate about cofee; the café’s owners travel the world to source the fnest sustainable, fair trade arabica beans to use in their house blends. the café uses its own roaster and refnes beans at low temperatures for longer periods of time to ensure a perfect end result. every item sold in the café is globalblue.com

PHOTO: AngelA FrAnke

Scandinavian café culture is internationally renowned and at Saltkråkan visitors can experience a taste of Sweden in central Hamburg. Scandinavian infuences can be seen in the décor and menu; the café interior is bright and open plan with minimalist furnishings in shades of blue. Menu options include a range of high-quality cofees and a food selection that runs the gamut from Swedish pastries to liquorice and chocolate confectionery. the range of oatmeal cookies, cinnamon rolls, cheesecakes and tortes is hard to resist. Saltkråkan, Grosse Bergstrasse 191, 22767 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 8709 7073, cafe-saltkrokan.de

freshly produced, from the locally sourced milk to the edited food selection, including baguettes, bagels, cheesecakes and tarts. the café’s interior ensures all attention is fxed on the high-quality cofee, thanks to its strippedback styling and oversized cofee counter. Elbgold, Mühlenkamp 6a, 22303 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 2788 2223, elbgold.com


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Die Herren SiMPel

PHOTO: TObiAs eicHmAnn

the perfect day-to-night venue, Die Herren Simpel ofers a warm welcome and relaxed atmosphere at all times. the café’s interior has a retro feel and is dominated by a mural featuring oversized cherry blossoms in full bloom set against a sky blue background. the drinks selection is extensive and includes a range of speciality cofees, alcoholic and nonalcoholic drinks, while homemade cakes and snacks are available to satisfy hunger pangs. Be sure to visit for breakfast – the café serves one of the city’s best. Die Herren Simpel, Schulterblatt 75, 20357 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3868 4600, dieherrensimpel.de

Pu Bl ic cof f e e roa St e r S Public cofee roasters’ newly opened café has a pared-down décor that refects its focus on cofee; the walls are painted black and furnishings are sparse, although foor-toceiling windows ensure the space is inviting. the team sees cofee production as a craft, sourcing beans from small farms in Brazil,

Guatemala and ethiopia and roasting each batch separately to preserve favour. every cup of cofee produced ofers multi-faceted favours, while the café’s expert baristas make this the café of choice for cofee connoisseurs. Public Cofee Roasters, Wexstrasse 28, 20355 Hamburg, +49 (0)176 9317 1580, publiccofeeroasters.com


One of the top addresses in Hamburg when it comes to exclusive jewellery is Juwelier Cabochon. We are proud to offer you a great selection of fine and unique diamond jewellery, luxurious watch and well known jewellery brands from around the world. Juwelier Cabochon – A family business offering four generations of expertise with a name you can trust. We are looking forward to your visit. JUWELIER CABOCHON Alstertal Einkaufszentrum (AEZ) Heegbarg 31 • 22391 Hamburg Tel: +49 40 608 24 698 Fax: +49 40 60 82 13 20 info@juweliercabochon.com www. juweliercabochon.com

OUR BRANDS


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Guide

PHOTO: ULRICH KERSTING CC BY NC-SA 2.0

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Hamburg with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from the coolest concept stores to the perfect tailor. Start with SHOP’s highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For more helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/hamburg.

A GlIMPSE OF HAMBURG Above: Hamburg’s Speicherstadt district, which is illuminated at night to striking efect


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Michael Kors Travel in style with the help of Michael Kors’ new Hamilton Traveller tote. Alstertal, Kritenbarg 4, 22391 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 8197 1590, destinationkors.com featured on page 42

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Strenesse Admire German functional fashion at Strenesse, whose sporty, furtrimmed lightweight parkas are sure to become a winter staple. Grosse Bleichen 31, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3571 3113, strenesse.com featured on page 58

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Saltkråkan Enjoy a slice of Scandinavian café culture with a visit to Saltkråkan. Be sure to try a cinnamon bun. Grosse Bergstrasse 191, 22767 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 8709 7073, cafe-saltkrokan.de featured on page 66

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Paul Smith Embrace traditional British sartorial elegance with a visit to Paul Smith’s new store, stocking everything from tailored suits to patterned scarves. Hohe Bleichen 15, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3501 5273, paulsmith.co.uk featured on page 38

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SELECTED STORES IN GÄNSEMARKT PASSAGE: BUTLERS DIVA TRAUMKLEIDER ELB HAMBURG GÄNSEMARKT PARFÜMERIE GÖRTZ 17 JUN GUYS & DOLLS LABEL & TRENDS LES PETITS MAISON DE PARIS MERCEDEH-SHOES PANDORA QUARTIER 50 SIGNUM STORE UHRZEIT.ORG

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HAMBURG’S TOP STORES 1. Minimarkt Proving that the best things come in small packages, Minimarkt offers a surprisingly vast range of design pieces, accessories, furniture, and fashion and beauty products in its compact store. Every item in stock is sustainable and high quality, while designers range from well-known names to ambitious up-and-coming talents. Minimarkt, Bartelsstrasse 37, 20357 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 2351 8442, minimarkt.com

3. Sleeping Dogs Owner Carmen Gloger selects only the most beautiful objects to display in her boutique. The collection includes items sourced from throughout Europe, and features everything from tables and chairs to lamps and crockery. Sleeping Dogs, Rödingsmarkt 20, 20459 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3861 4044, sleepingdogs.de

2. Apropos The Concept Store Hamburg’s version of the acclaimed Apropos concept store occupies a large, bright, open-plan space dominated by a statement glass staircase. Its product selection includes an eclectic mix of womenswear, beauty products, homeware and lifestyle pieces by brands including Chloé, Balmain, Marc Jacobs and Cire Trudon. Apropos The Concept Store, Neuer Jungfernstieg 16, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 2800 87750, apropos-store.com

4. Herr von Eden Catering to men with an individual sense of style, the menswear collections on offer at Herr von Eden evoke the spirit of 1920s dandyism, albeit with a modern twist. The range includes classic precision-cut suiting, shirts, ties, pocket squares and braces. Herr von Eden, Marktstrasse 33, 20357 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 439 0057, herrvoneden.com

Grosse Bleichen

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Bleichenhof

CHARLOTTE HH FLECK MODELLHÜTE MONIKA STORE 4 KIDS WOHNGEFÜHL

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TORQUATO ●

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E G S S LU N R A ND S T HA S T U CH ER P O I A- B U B N a L N ri AL HE L D a lle TH RA ● EI C G BL HA R ● SE NE T OS RT CH G R GÄ s ● NE E au I K EK sh UL TH S N n n ● P O L ER RG LY A ma B U VE ● UT KE f B u AM & E ● ÜC Ka H E US RE BR HA BT EN ● CR A CH ● EI

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MODEHAUS A. STEEN ●

Hanse Viertel

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JO MALONE BY HAMBURGER HOF PARFÜMERIE ● JUWELIER HANSEN ● BASLER ● GOLFINO ● MEPHISTO ● 1.2.3 TEXTILVERTRIEBS ●

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BARBOUR BREE CHEZ ELLES DELSEY DOUGLAS EINS ZWEI DREI GÖRTZ HANSE HAUS HAMBURG CLASSICS JACQUES BRITT KIRCHHOFF DONNA KIRCHHOFF ESTABLISHED KONPLOTT

LACOSTE LA MODA LEYSIEFFER MOOTZ NOMINATION OPTIKER CARL PANDORA ROECKL SAHLING-BEST OF BEAUTY SANSIBAR SCHACHT & WESTERICH TABACALERA HANSEATICA TOTT VEGAS WMF BUBA SCHUH ●

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HERMANN STEGMANN ● A R ● ROTH’S ALTE ENGLISH APOTHEKE DOUGLAS ● ● AMERICAN APPAREL LANGHAGEN & HARNISCH ● ● OPTIKER BODE ALLIGATOR LEDERWAREN ● SCHUHKAY ● ● NIVEA HAUS VERO MODA ● JEAND HEUR EMIL ● AUST DRESS ● TR CIRO ● A B C-S SCHUHHAUS PRANGE ● LIU JO ● CHOPARD ● RENÉ LEZARD ●

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SELECTED STORES IN ALSTERHAUS:

AS

1,2,3, TEXTILVERTRIEBS BREE BRIGITTE VON BOCH EYECATCHER H&M HUGO BOSS KARSTADT LONGCHAMP M. NIEMYER OSCHÄTZCHEN IM ALSTERHAUS

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Alsterhaus

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APPLE ● SALAMANDER ● WEMPE ● P.41 LLOYD ● TEE GSCHWENDNER ● HEMDENSPEZI ● N P.90 MEISSEN ● DE CROCS ● KA GODIVA CHOCOLATIER ● R OREA LINGERIE ● E R A ALSTERARKADEN APOTHEKE ● S T BERNSTEINLADEN WALTER WITZKI ● AL

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BREUNING TRAURINGLOUNGE FIL A FIL DANIELS & KORFF GERRY WEBER GÖRTZ 17 HAMBURGER HOF PARFÜMERIE KLOCKMANN LEVI’S PETITE POUPETTE SHOWROOM HAMBURG STARLIGHT FEINE DAMENWÄSCHE TABACALERA HANSEATICA TITAN REISEGEPÄCK TORQUATO

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SELECTED STORES IN HAMBURGER HOF:

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Neuer Wall T AD CH PO DE 0 I E A BY P.4 G N G I HM EJ IE S ES SC S L LA E D E LD ER ST KE UG H LL N C GO M EL & PA L DO RS WI ER ● P O E Y G O & OE I N I E R A / GF ● FR AN GE KL EL RN N A N W E ● M D ● I U JU ● A V J ET O L L / C OX ● ● C A M I DA / & G E E G AO ● ● TU LI NY E B ● M OSS ● C A F FA O MS A T Z ● R O ● I HO B T S A S G Ö S S R ●● ● O A GO R C OM RE IKE P ● A HU Z G TH SP PT AM F ● ● ● IN A R N E L O C H T R UAC ● O HR A M O ON EL NG GU M ● AM X T M R P B LO & ● MA GE S UIT AG OR ● M LD ● UN RI S V RR DS ER CA FE IN RTI E ● FE ● AK UI EL M S I RE C ● O R /W A C R S ● L I U AH .40 ● A ’ S TO H N NC L C D P R A LG A IT Z E ● BR ● T O LVA DY I N E LA ST BU. WE U H I ● ● SA L A RV D ER TB ST W S C H U C C T I ●● ● ● K A N EN G ON G T S PO M R ER SA N D ● I E B DU È ● ST JI L RV O R R O M EN ● HL M ER S Y ● ● A LF LE K A PE I R C H K H O Ü IC ER IE ● DA NC A M SS A R R R W A O L ● B IE NN RB E E ● BU T M N L S /M P EA ● S Ö B UVAT BB ● VA W E P H T O R RI HE A MG N A ● A ● JU OL LA IE SC HN CR EL E N S● L ● EL A Z D E G I JO RU W A O PI TU A ● M I R ● JU E WI L D RO EN R L N ● CK PO SS ● I E SO LE ● LE Y EG LO M P IG S S F U A N LL L A DE NI E EN ● E M E BA NE EL LZ ● UX R L ER ● FA H A N E PE CK AIN RA CA F K ● STE OST ÜC AL S BRÜ C C M O R T● C A Z R EN AR ● NB IT LA LI Ø I S M ● AB TE CH L● H S E EI ● N ÖB ● BL RY D E M L ER O PE ET M RB C M OS TE B U A+ ER ● B+ GN ● LI !● OP JO E● IL & M CE ● .E L A ST DO NN NT ● BA A GA G

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S H O P | 75

Koch Kontor Appealing to gastronomy enthusiasts, hamburg’s Koch Kontor is part cookerybook shop, part café. A bright, warm and welcoming space, it is dotted with small wooden tables surrounded by more than 3,000 diferent cookery books, ranging from mainstream titles to more obscure publications. Every day, the store serves a lunch menu based on recipes taken from one of its books, while those inspired to try for themselves can attend one of its regular cookery classes.

Koch Kontor, Karolinenstrasse 27, 20357 hamburg, +49 (0)40 4321 6036, koch-kontor.de

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PEAK PERFORMANCE ● CLOSED ● ● DIESEL TIMBERLAND ● ● TOMMY HILFIGER P.41 KONPLOTT ● COMMA ● STEFANEL ● ● GÖRTZ 17 TOM TAILOR ●

● CAMPER ● TOMMY HILFIGER ● ABERCROBIE & FITCH STUART WEITZMANN ● ● ZARA FLORENCEMODA ●

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Mönckebergstrasse & Bergstrasse SELECTED STORES IN EUROPA PASSAGE:

GAMESTOP GÖRTZ H&M HALLHUBER HANDELSHAUS LÄGEL HÖGL SHOE FASHION IDEE. CREATIVMARKT INFLAGRANTE JACKPOT KULT L’OCCITANE MONSOON / ACCESSORIZE MORE & MORE OAKLEY ODLO ONE GREEN ELEPHANT PANDORA PAPETERIE BATHELT

AKTIV SHOE BETTEN SASS BIANCO FOOTWEAR BIBA BENETTON BIJOU BRIGITTE BONITA BOSE CECIL CHRIST DOUGLAS ECCO EDC ETERNA GABOR-LLOYD

PILGRIM SIERCKE SCHMUCK STREET ONE STREET SUPER SHOES TALLY WEIJL TAMARIS TCHIBO TE THALIA THE HAIR COMPANY THEO WORMLAND TOM TAILOR TOMMY CRYSTAL TOMMY HILFIGER DENIM WMF ZERO

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Karstadt Galeria Kaufof

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MÄRKLIN MASSIMO DUTTI PRINCESSE TAM TAM SAHLING-BEST OF BEAUTY STEIFF GALERIE STRACOLAND SWAROVSKI TOWN HOUSE

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K AT T R

BR AN CH ENS TR.

BADEORT CALVIN KLEIN COMPAGNIE COLONIALE H -GALERIE JACKPOT MARC O’ POLO

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ANSON’S ●

STR RA

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Levantehaus

● C&A

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Appelrathcüpper

● BONITA ● FOOT LOCKER HERRENAUSSTATTER ● BRAUN ● YVES ROCHER

● THOMAS I-PUNKT

SCHM

● CARL PREDIGER ● SNIPES

● FIELMANN

● ENERGIE

● JACK WOLFSKIN / GLOBE-TROTTER ● ANZUG-OUTLET

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GSTR

● PIMKIE

K EBER

● ORSAY

MÖNC

RZ

IITTALLA ●

MAC ●

GÖRTZ ●

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● ELSNER SCHUH ● ESPRIT FRIEDO ● WIESENHAVERN ● H&M ● MANGO ● ADIDAS ● FOSSIL ● WMF

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AL GST

PETIT BATEAU ●

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BER MÖNCKE

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BENETTON ● CHRIST ●

SPORTSHECK ●

MONKI ●

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● MALVIN ● FOTO-GREGOR ● SØR OSCAR LENIUS CLOSED DAMEN ● ● GÖRTZ 17 ● BUDNIKOWSKY IWAN

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● ULRICH STEIN

HERRENAUSSTATTER BRAUN ● HAGEL THE HAIR COMPANY ●

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G U I D E | 77

Designer Outlet Neumünster HOw tO get tHeRe By car From Hamburg: head north on the A7. take exit 15 for Neumünster Süd and continue on the B205, following the signs for Designer Outlet. From Neumünster: follow Altonaer Strasse (K16), turn left on to Oderstrasse and follow the signs directing you to the front entrance. By bus From Neumünster: take the 7 or 77, which leave from in front of the railway station. By train From Hamburg: take the Re21020 to Neumünster. From Kiel: take the Re21023 to Neumünster.

Designer Outlet Neumünster, Oderstrasse 10, 24539 Neumünster, +49 (0)4321 558 6880, mcarthurglen.com

PeRFect DAy

6pm 7 for All Mankind’s range of premium denim provides the perfect ft, and there’s a complementary selection of footwear, bags and casualwear.

Opening times Monday-Saturday: 10am-8pm Sunday and public holidays: closed

10am Start the day at Gant Footwear where American sportswear heritage and european style combine to create a casual lifestyle collection.

12pm take time out with a cup of Schärf cofee and a snack at Tackmann’s Cofee House.

4pm By taxi the journey takes approximately 40 minutes from Hamburg, Lübeck and Kiel.

globalblue.com

Find the perfect fnishing touches at Falke’s newly opened outlet store, which ofers everything from men’s socks to women’s hosiery.

2pm Adventurous types will love the collection of mountain-ready outfts on ofer at sportswear boutique Napapijri.


78 | G U I D E

Essential Information Use your smartphone’s QR code reader to link to the helpful websites below when on the go 1

2

1. Regional Tourist Ofce Hamburg Tourismus GmbH, Steinstrasse 7, 20095 Hamburg, hamburg-tourism.de/en/ 2. Federal Foreign Ofce Switchboard (24-hour service): +49 (0)30 18170 Help Desk (Mon-Fri: 9am3pm): +49 (0)30 1817 2000

3

4

5

6

EMERGENCY SERVICES

USEFUL PHRASES

Emergency: 112 (ambulance and fre); 110 (police) Doctor: +49 (0)116117 (emergency service, weekends and public holidays) Lost Or Stolen Cards: +49 (0)116116 (immediate blocking of lost/ stolen debit/credit cards)

Hello ∙ Hallo/Guten Tag Thank you ∙ Danke schön Please ∙ Bitte I would like... ∙ Ich möchte... Goodbye ∙ Auf Wiedersehen How much is...? ∙ Wieviel kostet...? Can I have a receipt please? ∙ Darf ich bitte eine Quittung haben?

3. Transportation Maps For public transport timetables and tickets head to hvv.de or m.hvv.de; alternatively you can scan the QR code

PHOTO: GNTB/RAiNeR KiedROwsKi

4. Deutsche Bahn If you intend to travel by train, go to the bahn.de website or scan the QR code for more information 5. Taxi To fnd a local taxi, scan the QR code or use the website taxi.de 6. Global Blue Online For the most up-to-date information on shops, museums, galleries and restaurants in Germany, go to globalblue.com or scan the QR code globalblue.com

DID YOU KNOW...? Hamburg is often known as the City of Rivers due to its extensive network of rivers and canals. With more than 2,500 bridges, the city has more river crossings than Venice or Amsterdam.

Above: the Alsterarkaden overlooking the waters of the Kleine Alster (Litle Alster)


S H O P | 79

Hamburg Airport After every great holiday comes the fight home, but that doesn’t mean your shopping trip should be over when you reach the airport. At Hamburg airport, you’ll fnd the best names in German fashion and accessories. If you’re looking for gifts,

souvenirs or a new pair of sunglasses from a label that you won’t fnd at home, the airport’s boutiques are sure to fll the gaps in your suitcase. In addition, Hamburg airport has a number of places in which to eat and drink.

Hugo Boss

Marc O’Polo

Epitomising modern European style, Hugo Boss’s designs are a wardrobe staple. The brand has four distinctive lines, created to suit work, play and everything in between. Choose between the sharp tailoring of Boss Black, the athletic appeal of Boss Green, Boss Orange’s urban attitude and fashionforward Hugo line. Whatever you have in mind, Hugo Boss is guaranteed to have an outft.

For of-duty days, look no further than Marc O’Polo, which is known for its cool, casual range of men’s and women’s clothing. Founded in Stockholm, Marc O’Polo focuses on natural materials, combining classic American style with a nod to the season’s trends. Make a pit stop before your fight to stock up on the brand’s winter layers.

Hermès Hermès is known for producing some of the most luxurious and beautiful things that money can buy. The French company started life in 1837 as an equestrian leather-

goods business, hence its famous logo, but is better known today for its top-quality leather goods, silk scarves, jewellery and fragrances. Whatever you opt for, no can resist the lure of Hermès’s signature orange packaging, adorned with an elegant black bow.


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When you shop the world, shop tax free Hamburg Airport A19

B20

A18

C18

Berlin Schönefeld Airport

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C16

C17

C15

C07

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Plaza

Terminal 2

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Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts.

Berlin Tegel Airport 6 7

5

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3 2 1

8

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So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

11

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Key

1. Shop Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.

2. Claim When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Ofces.

Contact: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Spend a minimum of €25 and save up to 14.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash. 85 / 88

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Customs stamp

Global Blue Refund Ofce

Landside

Tax Free mailbox

Check-in area

Airside

Security control

Stairs

Information

Refund Ofce details: Hamburg Airport Global Blue Terminal 1, afer security control, at the pier between gates A18 and A20. Go to check-in frst, ask for your labelled luggage and take it with you to customs. Customs stamps for luggage only at Terminal 1. Customs stamps for hand luggage behind security control at the pier between gates A18 and A20. Berlin Tegel Airport Terminal A, Service Centre, go to customs before check-in. Customs is situated beside the Global Blue Ofce Berlin Schönefeld Airport Terminal A, Departures, landside, second foor to the right of the café bar. Go to customs before check-in. Downtown Berlin KaDeWe, Tauentzienstrasse 21-24, 10789 Berlin Galeria Kaufof, Alexanderplatz 9 (Customer Service Centre, 5th foor), 10178 Berlin


81

Translations Русский ПеРевод 46: Good To Go

Хорошей дороги! Стефани Хиршмиллер рассказывает о качественных чемоданах, комфортной одежде и других полезных вещах, которые сделают путешествие не только удобным, но и стильным

Среди всего многообразия аксессуаров из арсенала современного путешественника по-настоящему роскошный стиль воплощают сумки и чемоданы Louis Vuitton. Эта компания была основана в 1854 году и быстро прославилась фирменными багажными кофрами с плоским дном. В прошедшие полтора века значимость бренда неуклонно растет, и каждая серия сумок, будь то Speedy, Alma или Never Full, получает заслуженное признание. Новый дизайнер марки Николя Гескьер (автор бестселлера Lariat для Balenciaga) детально изучил наследие Louis Vuitton и переосмыслил исторический чемодан с монограммой в модели Petite-Malle, globalblue.com

которая уже претендует на статус It-bag сезона. Серия Icons этого модного дома предлагает отличные решения для дорожных комплектов одежды. Она обновляется каждый сезон, и в этом году ориентируется на стиль французского архитектора и дизайнера Шарлотты Перрианд, суть которого – в объединении функциональности с красотой. Сезон возрождения переживают сейчас плащи с капюшоном – обязательный элемент золотого времени путешествий в начале 20 века. Коллекция Icons развивает эту тему с помощью шерстяных пончо и двусторонних клетчатых пальто с верблюжьей подкладкой. Накидка от модного дома Dolce & Gabbana выглядит так, будто спустилась из волшебной зимней сказки. Вариация Valentino декорирована изображениями лесных животных и необычных бабочек, пончо Burberry похожи на теплые пледы, а силуэты Saint Laurent укорочены в стиле 1960-х. В дорогу лучше отправляться в удобной обуви на плоской подошве, и мы рекомендуем лоферы от Gucci и Tod’s. Дизайнер Мадлен Томпсон, которая живет на два города, Лондон и Гонконг, и постоянно курсирует между ними, специально для продолжительных перелетов создала роскошные мягкие туфли из кашемира. Она продумала все до мелочей, чтобы сгладить неудобства длительных путешествий: в ее коллекции – маска для глаз, пижама, одеяло и наволочки из кашемира и шелка. Дизайнеры Пенни Кляйн и Хайди Госман развивают популярную марку одежды для пляжного отдыха Heidi Klein. Их дело пронизывает дух международных путешествий: курортная рекламная кампания марки в 2015 году снималась на Британских Виргинских островах. Если в этом сезоне вы отправляетесь в теплые страны, Heidi Klein рекомендует приобрести два двусторонних купальникабикини, которые можно сочетать в различных комбинациях, как, например, модели São Paulo и Jaipur. Марку обуви Ancient Greek Sandals создала Кристина Мартини, которая раньше


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разрабатывала аксессуары для Balenciaga и Louis Vuitton. Джессика Альба и Кандис Свейнпол уже стали поклонницами ее греческих сандалий ручной работы, тем более что на них можно разместить собственные инициалы. Если вы не выключаете гаджеты на время путешествия, то помогать в пути вам будет приложение Like a Local. Пользователи портала Mashable, специализирующегося на различных технологиях, дали ему высшую оценку. Такого же мнения придерживается и Кристина Мартини: «Это приложение помогает избегать туристических ловушек и находить самые интересные места города». Дизайнер ювелирных украшений из Южной Африки Кирстен Госс тоже предпочитает оставаться на связи всегда, поэтому пользуется Monster Powercard – портативным устройством для зарядки iPhone и iPad: «Эта станция дает невероятный уровень мощности и не раз меня выручала в сложных ситуациях», улыбается она. И, наконец, чемодан. Если вы придерживаетесь традиций, то непременно обратите внимание на британскую компанию Globe-Trotter. Все ее дорожные кейсы создаются английскими мастерами на заказ и исключительно вручную. Также компания запатентовала собственный износостойкий материал – «vulcanised fbreboard». Новую коллекцию марки Albemarle, в которую вошли сумки из кожи карамельного и красного оттенков, можно посмотреть только в новом флагманском магазине марки в лондонском районе Мейфэр. Но если вы предпочитаете исключительно современное оборудование, рекомендуем попробовать четырехколесный чемодан Rimowa Titanium. Кирстен Госс приобрела набор из трех кейсов еще 10 лет назад: «Их роняли, бросали и возили по всему миру, но они не вышли из строя, и я до сих пор ими пользуюсь», - утверждает она. Пожалуй, самым роскошным предложением в этой сфере можно назвать новинку марки Moynat, которую в 1849 году в Париже открыла Полин Мойна. Эти чемоданы ручной работы по форме подходят в багажник автомобиля, а также могут быть перекрашены под ее цвет. Новый арт-директор компании globalblue.com

Рамеш Наир – бывший дизайнер Hermès, так что можно ожидать новых переосмыслений классических веèей бренда. Следуя нашим рекомендациям, вы будете путешествовать не только удобно, но и стильно. Bon voyage! louisvuitton.com, madeleine-thompson.com, heidiklein.com, ancient-greek-sandals.com, globetrotter1897.com, moynat.com 52: In Focus: Montblanc’s Meisterstück Pen

В ФОКУСЕ: Ручка Montblanc Meisterstück Знаменитая перьевая ручка Montblanc считается классикой дизайна, еще с тех пор как она была выпущена 90 лет назад. Салли МакИлхоун пытается узнать секрет ее необъяснимой привлекательности В 1924 году скромная авторучка стала объектом всеобщего желания. Это был год, когда Montblanc выпустил уже ставшую легендой ручку Meisterstück, ручку, которой пользовался каждый государственный деятель от Барака Обамы до Нельсона Манделы. История названия связана с давней немецкой традицией, согласно которой, каждый мастер должен был создать Meisterstück или «шедевр», чтобы продемонстрировать свои способности и получить аттестацию соответствующей профессиональной организации или гильдии. «Нам так понравилась эта идея, что мы решили воплощать дух Meisterstück в каждом изделии, включая авторучки, изделия из кожи и часы», – поясняет генеральный директор Montblanc Кристиан Раух. После создания своего шедевра компания Montblanc по понятным причинам не торопится вносить кардинальные изменения в ставший популярным дизайн. В конце концов, зачем портить такое совершенство? «Последние серьезные изменения в дизайне были сделаны в 1950-х годах, – говорит Раух. – С тех пор мы ограничивались лишь незначительными модификациями. Например, мы усовершенствовали характеристики ручки для использования во время полета. Это как логотип Coca-Cola, вам может показаться, что он уже сто лет не менялся, но на самом деле это не так».


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Однако, что касается внешнего вида самой ручки, то здесь мало что поменялось. «Если вы попросите кого-то нарисовать вам авторучку, то она всегда будет напоминать Meisterstück, именно поэтому мы придерживаемся неизменного дизайна», – замечает Раух. Перед тем как внести малейшую правку, решение тèательным образом обдумывается. В честь 90-летнего юбилея мы впервые выпустили модель в варианте из розового золота. Meisterstück поставляется в четырех размерах и самый большой из них, 149-й, мы обычно никогда не меняем. Но в этот раз мы решились на выпуск версии из розового золота, правда этому предстоял целый год дебатов и консультаций, в том числе с нашими партнерами из Richemont (швейцарская холдинговая компания, специализируюèаяся на производстве предметов роскоши, частью которой является Montblanc). В итоге мы это сделали и ничуть не жалеем, однако для нас это было непростым решением». Возможно, как раз благодаря такой осторожности к масштабным переменам серия Meisterstück смогла выдержать испытание временем. «Эта ручка стала настояèим символом роскоши, которых не так уж и много, например, кольцо Trinity de Cartier, часы Rolex Oyster, духи Chanel No5 и может еèе 10 или 15 веèей, которые действительно признаны во всем мире». Теперь, когда Meisterstück попал в этот зал славы, Montblanc стремится сделать все возможное, чтобы он остался там как можно дольше. Для этого компании также необходимо следить, чтобы ручка всегда шагала в ногу со временем. «Процесс создания регулярной модели Meisterstück состоит из ста различных этапов, 35 из которых приходятся на одно только перо», – поясняет Раух. После тèательных проверок, как с помоèью невооруженного глаза, так и при помоèи увеличительного стекла и компьютерного анализа, сделанная вручную авторучка подвергается окончательной проверке. Для этого требуется помеèение со звукоизоляцией и несколько специально обученных сотрудников, которые, как выразился Раух, могут «прочувствовать душу письменных принадлежностей». Ручка Meisterstück была одной из первых

и по-настояèему долговечных. Именно ей обязаны своей популярностью остальные веèи бренда, выпуèенные в период с 1924 по 2004 год. «Мы всегда говорили, что Meisterstück создается на века и должна переходить из поколения в поколение. Это, конечно, может звучать слегка необычно, ведь мы привыкли покупать ручку и сразу ее выкидывать, как только она перестала писать. Такое положение дел было до прихода Montblanc и таким оно остается сейчас со многими письменными принадлежностями». Ценность каждого изделия легко заметить по принципам сервисного обслуживания Montblanc. «Мы создаем такие изделия, которые должны служить вечность, и мы будем рады принять их в ремонт независимо от того, когда они сделаны, – говорит Раух. – У нас действуют довольно строгие правила. Если вы принесете к нам ручку Montblanc 1941 года выпуска, мы наладим ее с помоèью комплектуюèих того же года. Например, поршень авторучки сегодня делается из кремния; в 1941 годы мы использовали пробковое дерево, поэтому и чинить будем с деталями из пробкового дерева». Учитывая такое внимание к качеству, похоже, что Meisterstück будет столь же знаменит и желанен даже через 90 лет. montblanc.com 58: Form And Function

Мода Или Практичность? Немецкие дизайнеры в очередной раз доказывают, что одно другому нисколько не мешает. Клэр Коулсон изучила зимние коллекции лучших немецких брендов Несмотря на то, что мода – понятие глобальное, определенные страны упорно продолжают сохранять лидерство в тех или иных областях. Так, американцы делают превосходную спортивную одежду, итальянцев сложно превзойти по части изделий из кожи, а французы остаются лидерами шикарных и невероятно женственных нарядов. Что же касается Германии, то пресловутая немецкая точность в равной степени применима как к современным технологиям и автомобилям, так


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и к модным брендам этой страны. Практичный дизайн и неповторимое качество в сочетании с природным прагматизмом стали основой формирования модной индустрии немцев. В последнее время, когда мода переживает кардинальные изменения, роскошные бренды по всему миру начинают осознавать одну простую истину: все что нужно женщинам – так это настоящая одежда, состоящая из элегантных классических элементов, которые хорошо смотрятся и легко носятся. Взять, к примеру, дебютную коллекцию Джейсона Ву для Hugo Boss. Кому-то такой союз может показаться весьма странным, учитывая, что дизайнер специализируется в основном на легких и роскошных вечерних платьях, в то время как Hugo Boss – на строгих мужских костюмах. И, тем не менее, это сотрудничество позволило подчеркнуть сильные стороны немецкой марки. В преддверии своей дебютной осенне-зимней коллекции Ву решил сослаться на перфекционизм бренда, в шутку назвав ультрасовременную штаб-квартиру Hugo Boss в Метцингене «кампусом». И все же ощущение немецкой точности, безусловно, присутствовало в коллекции Ву: стильные двусторонние кашемировые пальто с аккуратным военным ремнем черного цвета; аккуратные костюмы с безукоризненными мальчишескими пиджаками и брюками; а также плюшевые трикотажные накидки, которые можно носить в сложенном виде на плечах, а затем накинуть на спину – все это смотрится элегантно и в высшей степени практично. Ву не единственный дизайнер, пытающийся переосмыслить и объединить прагматизм и высокую моду. Последняя коллекция Escada «Escada Sport» буквально изобилует практичными моделями. Меховые куртки слегка приталены и подвязаны поясом; парки и жилетки с меховыми капюшонами почти невесомы и весьма удобны в зимнюю пору; глянцевые пальто и куртки сделаны с использованием легкого и современного утеплителя. Все это сочетается с мальчишеской обувью на плоской подошве, которая, несмотря на свою практичность, выглядит довольно шикарно. В Strenesse похожая история: легкие globalblue.com

спортивные парки и куртки, украшенные мехом, сочетаются с повседневными платьями и леггинсами. Прилегающие жакеты утеплены мехом и трикотажными деталями на рукавах. Как и в случае с Hugo Boss особое место здесь отведено современным костюмам, практичным и в то же время стильным, с брюками свободного покроя серого цвета с голубоватым или розоватым отливом. Аксессуары также приобрели долю практичности. Strenesse завершает свои привлекательные образы удобными клатчами на длинном ремешке. Мюнхенская марка MCM во главе с креативным директором Михаелем Михальски предлагает роскошные сумки тоут, отвечающие всем потребностям современной женщины. В сумках предусмотрены специальные отделения для электронных гаджетов, таких как ноутбук и iPad, а рюкзаки изобилуют кармашками разных размеров для всевозможных мелочей. Но особенно выраженно немецкая точность и техническое ноу-хау проявились в области спортивной одежды. Когда дело доходит до умения сочетать моду и одежду для экстремальных видов спорта, то здесь неизменными лидерами остаются такие немецкие марки, как Adidas, Bogner, Porsche Design и Schofel. Бренд Adidas смог показать все свои последние разработки во время экипировки британских спортсменов, участвующих в зимних олимпийских играх в Сочи в 2014 году. Adidas представил свои «теплые штаны», сделанные из самонагревающихся материалов и обеспечивающие оптимальную температуру тела спортсмена во время тренировки, а также костюмы Powerweb из термопластичного полиуретана, который хранит и возвращает эластическую тягу для снижения мышечной усталости. Возможно, это звучит немного из области фантастики, однако не стоит удивляться, если в скором времени подобная технология появится в вашем шкафу. И с большой долей вероятности можно предположить, что это будет вещь одного из немецких брендов. hugoboss.com, escada.com, strenesse.com, mcmworldwide.com, adidas.com, bogner.com, porsche-design.com, schofel.com


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80: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с tax free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270,000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохораните чеки. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €25 и сэкономьте до 14.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму. 美文翻译

46: Good To Go 整装待发 从 最 顶 尖 的 行李 箱到 最 舒 适 的着 装,S t e p h a n i e Hirschmiller 为您呈现时尚旅行指南 当代旅行者们有着广泛的选择,然而如果要选出一个最 能代表时尚旅行的品牌,那当属Louis Vuitton。这个 奢华箱包品牌可以追溯到1845 年,并以标志性的平底 箱举世闻名。

如 今 品 牌 的 摩 登 包 袋 同 样 声 名 显 赫 ,譬 如

S p e e d y 、A l m a 与 N e ve r F u l l 等系列。L o u i s Vuitton 的新设计师 Nicolas Ghesquière,曾在执 掌 Balenciaga 时创造了热销款 Lariat 手袋,他潜入 Louis Vuitton 的深厚历史,创造出这一季新款的It bag(话题包袋),Petite-Malle,一款品牌经典老花手 提箱的迷你手袋版本。 当提到旅行中的衣着,Louis Vuitton 的Icons 套装系列是不错的起点。这个定期更新的系列,在这一 季,从善于将实用与美感结合的法国建筑师与设计师 Charlotte Perriand处得到灵感。斗篷——20 世纪 早期旅行黄金年代的必备单品— —重新归来,Icons 秋冬系列单品还包括羊毛披风,与驼色内饰的两面穿 格子大衣。Dolce & Gabba na 带来了童话般的斗 篷,Valentino 则使用精灵古怪的森林动物与空灵蝴 蝶,Burberry 推出了毯式披风,而Saint Laurent 注 重改进1960年代的版型。 对 于 平 底 鞋 而 言,最 佳 选 择 是 来自 G u c c i 或 To d ’s 的 马 衔 铁 乐 福 鞋 。如 果 您 将 踏 上 长 途 飞 行之 旅 ,穿 梭 于 伦 敦与 香 港 之 间 的 M a d e l e i n e Thompson——为您奉上奢华的羊绒旅行拖鞋。事实 上,为使旅途变得尽可能舒适她已想尽一切办法,推出 了一系列羊绒睡衣与毛毯、眼罩以及,其中最棒的,一款 羊绒与丝绸制成的枕头套,其舒适度无疑比航空公司提 供的枕头套高上不少。 最 佳 泳 装 品牌 H e i d i K l e i n 背后 的 设 计双 杰 Penny Klein与Heidi Gosman,也是国际旅行的常客 (品牌的2015度假系列广告在英属维珍群岛拍摄)。这 两位女性对那些想要在本季沐浴阳光的人们的建议是 带上两套双面比基尼(例如Heidi Klein的São Paulo 与Jaipur系列)并混搭穿着。 来自 A n c i e n t G r e e k S a n d a l s ,这个由前 B a l e n c i a g a 与L o u i s V u i t t o n 的配饰设 计师 Christina Martini创造的颠覆性凉鞋品牌,可见于 Jessica Alba与Candice Swanepoel的足上。品牌的 鞋款全部在希腊手工制成,并可烙印上您的姓名首字 母。 如果您并不想完全摆脱科技的帮助,那么Martini 为您推荐这款叫做 Like a Local的手机app用以规划 行程,它曾被顶尖科技网站Mashable给予五星评价。 “ 它帮助您免于落入游客陷阱,并带您探索当地不为人知 的珍宝, ”她表示。搭乘喷气机穿梭于全球的南非奢华珠 宝设计师Kirsten Goss,绝不能忍受离开网络太久,她 高度依赖 Monster Powercard,一款用于为 iPhone 与iPad充电的便携装置。 “它所包含的充电量大得令人 难以置信,帮我摆脱了许多尴尬窘境, ”她笑称。 最后我们将目光投向手提箱。传统派的选择有来自 英国Globe -Trotter公司,其来客定制产品全部在英格 兰使用硫化纤维板手工制作。如果去伦敦,不妨抽出时 间造访该公司最近在 Mayfair开设的旗舰店,在那里你


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可以见到最新的Albemarle系列,这个焦糖色与红色皮 革的系列是在门店独家贩售的。对于摩登人群,不妨考 虑多向轮的Rimowa Titanium系列。Goss在十多年 前购入了一套三件该系列旅行箱: “他们已经在世界各 地遭受冲撞、抛掷和拖行,担仍然紧跟着我的步伐, ”她 表示。 或许最终极的豪华旅行配件是来自Moynat 的创 新单品。这个由Pauline Moynat在1849年成立于巴黎 的品牌,提供可以恰好装入车辆后备箱的定制旅行箱, 并可在色彩上与车辆外观相匹配。该公司的新艺术总监 Ramesh Nair,是Hermès的前设计师,所以请务必关 注这些经过重新塑造的必备单品。 有了上述时尚与舒适旅行指南,完美旅途唾手可 得。 louisvuitton.com, madeleine-thompson.com, heidiklein.com, ancient-greek-sandals.com, globetrotter1897.com, moynat.com

52: In Focus: Montblanc’s Meisterstück Pen 聚焦:万宝龙大班笔 自90年前诞生至今,万宝龙的驰名钢笔系列一直是永恒 的设计经典。Sally McIlhone为您揭示其持久魅力背 后的秘密

1924 年,默默无闻的钢笔开始被打造成欲望的载体。 在这一年万宝龙推出了品牌标志性的大班系列书写工 具,这是一支从奥巴马到纳尔逊曼德拉等每位显耀政客 都使用过的笔。 系列的名称来源于一个历史悠久的德国传统,每位 工匠能必须制作出大班——即“杰作”——来展示自己 的技能并获得进入相关专业机构或行业协会的资格。正 如万宝龙书写工具总监Christian Rauch 所解释的, “我们如此喜欢这个传统,以至于万宝龙决定将这种大 班精神运用到各条产品线,无论是书写工具、皮革制品 还是腕表。” 当万宝龙创造出“杰作”钢笔后,公司自然不愿轻 易在其设计上做重大变动。毕竟,为什么要破坏已经完 美的东西呢?“ 最后一个真正意义上的设计变动发生在 1950 年代初, ”Rauch 解释道。 “自那时起我们就只做 过微小调整;例如,改进了钢笔在航班上的工作原理。 就好比可口可乐的经典标志,多年来看似完全相同而事 实并非如此。” 然而 在笔 的外观 和 触 感 方面,几 乎 没有任 何 变 化。 “如果你请人画一支钢笔,从尼日利亚到巴黎,它看 起来永远都像一支大班笔,这也是我们如此坚守这一外 形的原因, ”Rauch 指出。任何修改建议都会经过深思 熟虑的考量。 “对于90周年纪念系列,我们首次制作了 玫瑰金版本。这款大班笔有四种尺寸,其中最大的149 我们过往鲜少触及。但这次我们做的这个玫瑰金版本, globalblue.com

经过了一年多的商榷——与董事会成员、外部顾问、与 历峰集团(万宝龙如今所属的瑞士奢侈品集团)的同僚 们...最后我们决定做这个版本,并对成果非常满意—— 但这对我们仍旧是一个相当重大的决定。” 正是这种对于变化保持的慎省态度,让大班笔经 受住了时间的考验。 “它成为真正意义上的奢侈图腾, 而世上并不多见。其他还有Cartier的Trinity戒指,劳 力士蚝式腕表,香奈儿 5号香水瓶等...或许在全球只有 10到15件产品拥有同样的地位。”今日大班笔已跻身殿 堂,万宝龙则将全力确保它能够永居其列。 对万宝龙而言,部分工作是确保大班笔在技术上的 至臻完美。 “任何一支普通的大班笔都经过100多道不 同的生产工序;仅笔尖部分就需要35步, ”Rauch解释。 之后是一整套全面的质量控制体系——包括肉眼观察、 放大镜观察、计算机测量等——最后的成品手工制钢 笔还会经过关键的最后检验。在隔音的房间内,训练有 素工作人员会试写每支钢笔;正如Rauch所言,测试者 通过触觉和声音来“检验书写工具的灵魂”。 大班笔是最先诞生的经典书写工具之一;因此品牌 旗下的每一款产品都备受尊崇,无论它制造于1924 年 还是2004年。 “我们总是强调,大班笔应当被珍藏一生 并传给下一代。这是不多见的;因为通常对于钢笔,人们 总是用坏了就丢弃。这是万宝龙诞生于世之前的普遍情 况,也是如今钢笔世界中多数发生的事实。” 万宝龙对于自身产品的骄傲体现在其售后服务的每 一个方面。 “我们要让自己的产品永生,所以我们也负责 “我 修复它们,无论经过了多少个年头, ”Rauch 表示。 们订立了严格的政策;如果您送来一支1941年代的万宝 龙笔,我们将以1941年的材料修复它。譬如,今日钢笔 内的活塞是用硅制成的;而在1941年是以软木制作的, 所以我们会在修复中仍使用软木活塞。” 对品质如此专注的大班笔,似乎会在接下来的 90 年中如今日一般闻名遐迩且受众人追逐。

montblanc.com 58: Form And Function 秀外慧中 从 最 顶 尖 的 行李 箱到 最 舒 适 的着 装,S t e p h a n i e Hirschmiller 为您呈现时尚旅行指南 德国制造拥有精密准确的国际声誉——这也适用于该 国的时尚品牌。一批德国顶尖品牌带来的冬季系列都印 证了这点,Clare Coulson表示 时尚正变得比任何时候都全球化,然而民族特色仍 未磨灭。美国人擅长制造奢华运动装,而在皮革制作上 无人能与意大利人比肩,巴黎仍旧是极致时髦与女性化 风格之圣地。此外,德国制造的精密性则体现在从前沿 科技到超级跑车等各行业,其同时适用于该国的时尚品 牌。


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实用、纯净的设计与制造,永远兼顾功能性:德国 品牌在这个最佳时机,开始高举自己与生俱来的实用主 义旗帜。时尚界正经历一场剧烈的变革,各地的奢侈品 牌都意识到女人衣橱中真正需要的,是实穿的服饰;是 好看又易穿的不过时的经典款。 以 Jason Wu在 Hugo Boss品牌发表的首个系列 为例。Wu个人最出名的单品是轻浮放浪、极度奢华的 鸡尾酒会装,这或许与以锋芒锐利的男性化剪裁出名的 Hugo Boss并不匹配。然而二者的联姻却更彰显了德 国品牌的优势。在推出秋/冬系列之前,Wu深入研究过 品牌的完美主义传统,并开玩笑地将Hugo Boss位于 麦琴根的总部成为“校园”。然而那份德国式的精密在 Wu 的设计中昭然若揭:时髦的双面羊绒大衣,腰部装 饰着简洁的黑色军用皮带;利落的西装则搭配以简约的 男孩风夹克与剪裁中性的西装裤;而 Wu的模特们肩上 搭着的毛绒针织披肩可以围至背后,温暖又实用。 Wu并不是唯一考虑将实用主义融入高级时装的设 计师。Escada旗下的最新副线Escada Sport,同样推 出了不少实用的作品。毛皮夹克以贴身剪裁并配以可收 紧腰带;皮草领大衣或风衣为冬季带来轻盈又温暖的包 裹;闪光外套与夹克则采用轻质绗缝线与填充物。以上 系列都可搭配平底的男孩风鞋履,即实穿又时髦。 Strenesse品牌也采取了类似的作法,运动感十足 的皮草装饰轻便风衣及夹克,可搭配时髦连衣裙与打底 裤,为冬日带来暖意。温暖的外套通体装饰着绝缘皮草 并辅以针织袖管。并且,与Hugo Boss如出一辙,时髦 摩登的裤装,西装裤是系列中的明星,以超高实用性以 及时尚剪裁而脱颖而出,此外还有极浅的鸽子灰、木炭 黑或温和的玫瑰米色宽松裤装可供选择。 时装配件也变得实用起来。Stgrenesse以耐磨的 斜跨信封手袋,来搭配其简约的服装造型。在慕尼黑的 MCM,创意总监Michael Michalsky在设计奢华手 提包的初期,就以适合女性职业生涯为考量;包中设有 可收纳笔记本电脑、iPad等数码产品的隔断,而背包的 设计中则加入了可以收纳财物的独立口袋。 德国式 的精准与 技 术,或许 在 运 动服 上 结合并 体现地最为淋漓尽致。该国众多的世界顶尖的专业运 动品牌,从 Adidas 与Bogner 到 Porsche Design与 Schof fel ,都是将时尚与高性能运动服结合的领导 者。Adidas借助2014 年索契冬奥会上的英国队,展现 了自己的技术实力。品牌提供的“发热裤” ,使用一种可 自身发热的材料,以确保运动员们能在最适合的温度下 进行热身,而使用热塑性聚氨酯制造的Powerweb西 服,则能够吸收并反馈弹力,从而减少肌肉疲劳。这或 许听起来很科幻,但当同样技术制成的服饰在不久的将 来出现在你的衣橱中时,请不要过度惊讶。而你几乎可 以确信这必然是德国品牌首率先推出的。 hugoboss.com, escada.com, strenesse.com, mcmworldwide.com, adidas.com, bogner.com, porsche-design.com, schofel.com

80: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球,尊享退税 当您在全球顶级购物区中的 27 万多家商店消费时, 环球蓝联(Global Blue)购物退税服务(Tax Free Shopping)为您节约购物开销。 每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环 球蓝联(Globa l Blue)获得购物退税,您怎能错过?您要做的只是寻 找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联(Global Blue)服务,然后遵循我们简单的退税过程:

1. 消费购物 无论您在哪里消费,请索要环球蓝联退税表格(Global

Blue Tax Free Form),并记得保存小票。 2. 申请退税 当您准备回家时,您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台请他 们在您的退税表格上盖章,然后再到环球蓝联的退税点 领取您的退税款。 联系方式:

taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费€25并且节约高达购买价格14.5%的税。请注 意:最终退款将包含增值税总额,但是要扣除管理手续 费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取现金退税手 续费。

‫ تس ّوق‬.1 ‫الخاص بغلوبل بلو‬ ‫ أطلب الحصول عل طلب استداد الضيبة‬،‫أينم تس ّوقت‬ ّ .‫ وتذكّر أن تحتفظ باليصالت‬Global Blue ‫ أطلب‬.2 ‫ أقصد مكتب الجمرك عند نقطة الغادرة لتتم الصادقة‬،‫ف طريق العودة إل وطنك‬ .‫الخاصة بنا‬ ‫عل إيصالتك قبل قبض الستداد من أحد مكاتب الستداد‬ ّ :‫للتّصال‬ taxfree@globalblue.com

+421 232 111 111 ‫ يشمل مبلغ‬.‫ من ثن مشتياتك‬14.5% ‫ وادّخر حتّى‬€25 ‫أنفق ح ّدا ً أدن قدره‬ ‫الستداد النهائ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الضيبة عل القيمة الضافة ناقص رسم‬ ‫ يُفرض رسم خدمة نقدي عل كل طلب استداد ضيبة‬،‫ ف بعض الطارات‬.‫إداري‬ .‫ف حال رغبت بالحصول عل استداد فوري نقدي‬


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‫قرارا ً صعباً بالنسبة لنا‪”.‬‬ ‫نتيجة هذا التدّد ف إجراء تغييات كبية‪ ،‬صمد ‪ Meisterstück‬عب السني‪.‬‬ ‫“أصبح رمزا ً حقيقيّاً للفخامة‪ ،‬من بي رمو ٍز نادرة‪ .‬نذكر منها خاتم ‪Trinity‬‬ ‫‪ de Cartier‬ووجه ساعة ‪ Rolex Oyster‬وزجاجة عطر ‪Chanel‬‬ ‫‪ ...No5‬ما بي ‪ 10‬و‪ 15‬غرضاً معتفاً به كرمز للفخامة حول العال‪ ”.‬الن‬ ‫وقد دخل ‪ Meisterstück‬مجال الشهرة هذا‪ ،‬تحرص ‪ Montblanc‬عل‬ ‫ضمن بقائه هناك‪.‬‬ ‫يتمثّل جزء من عمل ‪ Montblanc‬ف التأكّد من امتياز ‪Meisterstück‬‬ ‫من حيث التقنيّة‪ .‬يقول ‪ Rauch‬ف هذا الصدد‪“ :‬تشمل عمليّة صنع قلم‬ ‫‪ Meisterstück‬عادي ما يقارب مئة خطوة مختلفة؛ منها ‪ 35‬للرأس ل غي”‪.‬‬ ‫والكب والقياس‬ ‫بعد تطبيق مجموعة شاملة من معايي مراقبة الجودة‪ ،‬بالعي الج ّردة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫بواسطة جهاز الكمبيوتر‪ ،‬يخضع القلم النجز الصنوع يدويّاً إل اختبار نهائ دقيق‪ .‬ف‬ ‫بكل قلم؛ وعل ح ّد قول‬ ‫غرفة عازلة للصوت‪ ،‬يكتب أفراد مد ّربون من طاقم العمل ّ‬ ‫‪“ ،Rauch‬يختبون روح أداة الكتابة” من طريقة لسها وصوتها‪.‬‬ ‫يشكّل قلم ‪ Meisterstück‬إحدى أدوات الكتابة الول التي ابتُكرت لتدوم؛‬ ‫كل قطعة‪ ،‬إن كانت مصنوعة سنة ‪ 1924‬أو ‪.2004‬‬ ‫ولهذا السبب‪،‬تحتم العلمة ّ‬ ‫“لطالا قلنا إنّه يجب الحافظة عل ‪ Meisterstück‬طوال العمر ونقله إل‬ ‫الجيل التال‪ .‬ليس ذلك بالمر الألوف؛ ف العادة عندما تستخدم قلمً وينكس‪ ،‬ترميه‪.‬‬ ‫هكذا كان العال قبل قدوم ‪ Montblanc‬التي تشكّل عال القلم ف معظم‬ ‫الحيان‪”.‬‬ ‫كل نواحي خدمة ما بعد البيع‪ .‬يقول‬ ‫يظهر افتخار ‪ Montblanc‬بقطعها ف ّ‬ ‫‪ Rauch‬ف هذا الصدد‪“ :‬نصنع منتجاتنا لتصمد إل البد ونصلّحها مهم كان‬ ‫عمرها‪ .‬سياستنا صارمة ف هذا الجال؛ إن أرسلت إلينا قلم ‪ Montblanc‬من سنة‬ ‫‪ ،1941‬نصلّحه باستخدام مواد من سنة ‪ .1941‬عل سبيل الثال‪ ،‬تُصنع مكابس‬ ‫قلم الحب السائل اليوم من السيليكون‪ ،‬ف حي كانت من الفلّي سنة ‪ ،1941‬فنصلّحه‬ ‫بكبس من الفلّي‪”.‬‬ ‫نظرا ً للهتمم الكبي بالجودة‪ ،‬يبدو أ ّن تصميم ‪ Mesiterstück‬سيحظى بالشهرة‬ ‫نفسها التي يحظى بها اليوم ف السنوات التسعي القبلة‪.‬‬ ‫‪montblanc.com‬‬

‫‪Form And Function: 58‬‬

‫الشكل والعمليّة‬

‫الختصة بالزياء‪ .‬وقد‬ ‫تشتهر الصناعة اللان ّية بالدقّة عال ّياً با ف ذلك العلمات التجاريّة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫استغنمت هذه الفرصة الجموعات الشتويّة للعلمات البرز ف البلد‪ ،‬تقرير ‪Clare‬‬ ‫‪Coulson‬‬ ‫أي ٍ‬ ‫كل بلد ف مجال معي‪ .‬يتف ّوق‬ ‫وقت مض‪،‬مع بروز ّ‬ ‫باتت الزياء عاليّة أكث من ّ‬ ‫الميك ّيون باللبس الرياض ّية الفاخرة وما من أحد يضاهي الطليان بالجلود ف حي‬ ‫تبقى باريس مقصدا ً للسلوب النيق النثوي‪ .‬غالباً ما يت ّم الحديث عن الدقّة اللانيّة ف‬ ‫كل شء من تكنولوجيا متقدّمة إل س ّيارات خارقة‪ ،‬ويكن تطبيقها أيضاً عل العلمات‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الختصة بالزياء‪.‬‬ ‫التجاريّة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫تتم ّيز العلمات اللان ّية بالعمل ّية والحتاف ف التصميم والتصنيع فتفتخر بواقع ّيتها‬ ‫تغيا ً جذريّاً نتيجة إدراك‬ ‫الفطريّة التي تأت ف الوقت الناسب تاماً‪ .‬تشهد الزياء ّ‬ ‫العلمات التجاريّة الفاخرة ف شتّى بقاع الدنيا حاجة الرأة إل ملبس حقيق ّية؛ تتمتّع‬ ‫بشكلٍ جميل ويسهل ارتداؤها‪.‬‬ ‫خذ عل سبيل الثال مجموعة ‪ Jason Wu‬الول لـ ‪ .Hugo Boss‬نظرا ً‬ ‫ربا ل يكن‬ ‫لشهرة ‪ Wu‬باللبس العمليّة النيقة العابثة بامتياز والفاخرة إل ح ّد كبي‪ّ ،‬‬ ‫الخيار التوقّع لعلمة تجاريّة معروفة بتصاميمها الذكوريّة الفائقة الدقّة‪ .‬لكن سلّط‬ ‫هذا التعاون الضوء عل مكامن ق ّوة العلمة اللانيّة‪ .‬قبل إطلق مجموعة الخريف‪/‬‬ ‫الشتاء‪ ،‬ل ّح ‪ Wu‬إل الثال ّية الدروسة التي تتّبعها العلمة وأت ممزحاً عل ذكر‬

‫مق ّر ‪ Hugo Boss‬العصي ف ‪ Metzingen‬مس ّمياً إيّاه “الحرم”‪ .‬بالرغم‬ ‫من ذلك‪ ،‬تبز الدقّة اللانيّة بوضوح ف ملبس ‪ :Wu‬معاطف مزدوجة الوجه من‬ ‫الكشمي‪ ،‬مز ّودة بحزام عسكري أسود؛ بدلت أنيقة ذات ستات شبابيّة منفّذة بإتقان‬ ‫وساويل عمليّة؛ بالضافة إل أوشحة محبوكة من الخمل الطويل تزيّن أكتاف‬ ‫العارضات وتبدو دافئة لكن عمليّة بامتياز‪.‬‬ ‫ليس ‪ Wu‬الص ّمم الوحيد الذي يفكّر بطريقة لدمج العمليّة بالزياء الراقية‪ .‬تشمل‬ ‫مجموعة ‪ Escada Sport‬الخية من ‪ Escada‬الكثي من القطع العمليّة؛‬ ‫منها ستات من الفرو ملصقة للجسم مز ّودة بأحزمة؛ وستات مبطّنة أو من دون‬ ‫أكمم مز ّودة بقبّعات من الفرو‪ ،‬تنح الدفء وخفيفة الوزن؛ معاطف وستات ل ّاعة‬ ‫معزولة بحشوات وبطانات خفيفة الوزن‪ .‬وقد ت ّم تنسيق كل هذه القطع مع أحذية‬ ‫عمليّة من دون كعب مص ّممة لتكون مريحة وفائقة الناقة‪.‬‬ ‫الوضع ممثل لدى ‪ Strenesse‬حيث الستات العمل ّية الخفيفة الوزن ذات حواش‬ ‫من الفرو‪ ،‬تنح الدفء وت ُلبس مع فساتي عمليّة مرت ّبة وساويل ضيّقة‪ .‬ث ّة أيضاً‬ ‫ستات ض ّيقة يكسوها الفرو من الداخل وعل الكمم‪ .‬وعل غرار ‪،Hugo Boss‬‬ ‫تبقى البدلة العصيّة الصقولة هي التصميم البرز التميّز بالعمليّة لكن الص ّمم ليبدو‬ ‫شديد الناقة‪ ،‬خصوصاً مع ساويل فضفاضة بأبهت ألوان الرمادي أو الفحمي أو‬ ‫البيج الزهري الناعم‪.‬‬ ‫تجدر الشارة إل تطبيق مبدأ العمل ّية عل الكسسوارات أيضاً‪ .‬تكلّل ‪Strenesse‬‬ ‫تصاميمها التقنة بحقائب صغية مزودة بسلسل لتُحمل بشكلٍ قطري‪ .‬أ ّما لدى علمة‬ ‫‪ MCM‬الواقعة ف ميونخ‪ ،‬فأعطى الص ّمم ‪ Michael Michalsky‬حياة‬ ‫مخصصة للغراض‬ ‫الرأة العمليّة الولويّة لدى تصميمه حقائب فاخرة؛ ث ّة أقسام ّ‬ ‫التكنولوج ّية مثل جهاز الكمبيوتر الحمول والـ ‪ ،iPad‬ف حي ز ّودت حقائب الظهر‬ ‫بجيب فرديّة لحتواء الغراض الشخصيّة‪.‬‬ ‫قد يكون الدمج المثل للدقّة اللان ّية والدراية التكنولوج ّية ف اللبس الرياض ّية‪ .‬تأت‬ ‫الختصة باللبس الرياضيّة مثل ‪Adidas‬‬ ‫العلمات التجاريّة اللانيّة العاليّة الشهرة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫و‪ Bogner‬و‪ Porsche Design‬و‪ Schofel‬ف الصدارة لدى مزج‬ ‫الوضة باللبس الرياضيّة العمليّة‪ .‬تكّنت ‪ Adidas‬من عرض كافّة إنجازاتها‬ ‫الجديدة عندما ألبست الفريق البيطان ف اللعاب الولومب ّية الشتويّة ‪2014‬‬ ‫ف مدينة سوتش‪ .‬ابتكرت العلمة “ساويل حرارة” وملبس ذاتيّة التدفئة‬ ‫لتزويد الرياض ّيي بالحرارة الثال ّية ف خلل حصص التدريب‪ ،‬بالضافة إل بدلت‬ ‫‪ Powerweb‬مصنوعة من مادّة ‪Thermoplastic Polyurethane‬‬ ‫ال تحفظ طاقة الرونة وتعيدها لتقليص الرهاق العضل‪ .‬قد يبدو ذلك غي واقعي‪،‬‬ ‫لكن ل تتفاجأ إن بدأت هذه التكنولوجيا تتسلّل إل خزانتك ف الستقبل القريب‪.‬‬ ‫وعل الرجح أنّها ستكون من علمات تجاريّة ألان ّية‪.‬‬ ‫‪hugoboss.com, escada.com, strenesse.com,‬‬ ‫‪mcmworldwide.com, adidas.com, bogner.com,‬‬ ‫‪porsche-design.com, schofel.com‬‬

‫‪When You Shop The World,‬‬ ‫‪Shop Tax Free: 80‬‬

‫عندما تتس ّوق حول العال‪ ،‬تس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة‬

‫تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬خدمة التس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة ‪Tax‬‬ ‫‪ Free‬لتدّخر الال لدى تس ّوقك ف أكث من ‪ 270,000‬متجر ف أبرز مناطق‬ ‫التس ّوق حول العال‪.‬‬ ‫تنضم إل الـ ‪ 26‬مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون دفع الضيبة من خلل‬ ‫فل َم ل ّ‬ ‫كل سنة؟ ما عليك إل أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو‬ ‫غلوبل بلو ‪ّ Global Blue‬‬ ‫تسأل عن غلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬وتتبع خطواتنا السهلة‪.‬‬

‫‪globalblue.com‬‬


‫‪89‬‬

‫ترجمة باللغة العربيّة‬ ‫‪Good To Go: 46‬‬

‫كل ما يلزم للسفر‬

‫تقدّم ‪ Stephanie Hirschmiller‬نصائح عن السفر بتألّق مع حقائب‬ ‫مميّزة وملبس مريحة‬ ‫أمام السافر العاص مجموعة من الخيارات‪ ،‬لكن إن كان ل ب ّد من حص السفر بتألّق‬ ‫بعلمة تجاريّة واحدة‪ ،‬فل ب ّد أن تكون ‪ .Louis Vuitton‬تعود هذه العلمة‬ ‫الختصة بالمتعة الفاخرة إل سنة ‪ 1854‬وقد باتت معروفة عاليّاً بحقائبها السطّحة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫القعر‪.‬‬ ‫كم تشتهر العلمة اليوم بتشكيلة من الحقائب العصيّة مثل ‪ Speedy‬و‪Alma‬‬ ‫و‪ .Never Full‬تكّن مص ّمم ‪ Louis Vuitton‬الجديد ‪Nicolas‬‬ ‫‪ ،Ghesquière‬الذي ابتكر أكث حقائب ‪ Balenciaga‬مبيعاً ‪Lariat‬‬ ‫‪ ،bag‬من الستفادة من إرث ‪ Louis Vuitton‬ليبتكر الحقيبة البرز هذا‬ ‫الوسم ‪ Petite-Malle‬وهي حقيبة يد مصغّرة عن حقيبة الدار الساسيّة‪.‬‬ ‫لختيار ملبس مناسبة للسفر‪ ،‬اطّلع عل مجموعة ‪ Icons‬الصغّرة من ‪Louis‬‬ ‫‪ .Vuitton‬استوحيت الجموعة التجدّدة باستمرار هذا الوسم من أسلوب‬ ‫الهندسة والص ّممة الفرنس ّية ‪ Charlotte Perriand‬التي دمجت العمل ّية‬ ‫بالجمل‪ .‬شكّلت الوشحة أكسسوارات كلسيكيّة ف العص الذهبي للسفر ف بداية‬ ‫القرن العشين وتروج اليوم مجدّدا ً إل جانب قطع أخرى ضمن مجموعة ‪Icons‬‬ ‫للخريف‪/‬الشتاء مثل العاطف الصوفيّة الواقية من الطر والعاطف ذي الوجهي بلون‬ ‫البيج الداكن من الداخل‪ .‬كم ابتكرت علمة ‪ Dolce & Gabbana‬وشاحاً‬ ‫أسطورياً وتيّزت أوشحة ‪ Valentino‬بنقوش الحيوانات البيّة والفراشات الخلبة‬ ‫ف حي ص ّممت ‪ Burberry‬معاطف واقية من الطر شبيهة بالغطية وركّزت‬ ‫علمة ‪ Saint Laurent‬عل تصاميم الستّينات‪.‬‬ ‫من الخيارات الفضل بي الحذية بدون كعب‪ ،‬الحذية الزخرفة بلجام من ‪Gucci‬‬ ‫و‪ .Tod’s‬وللرحلت الطويلة‪ ،‬ابتكرت ‪ Madeleine Thompson‬التي‬ ‫تقض وقتها بي لندن وهونغ كونغ أخفافاً فاخرة للسفر من الكشمي‪ .‬ف الواقع‪،‬‬ ‫فكّرت بكل ما يلزم لجعل الرحلة ممتعة قدر المكان فص ّممت مجموعة تشمل‬ ‫خاصة للنوم وغطا ًء‪ ،‬كلّها من الكشمي‪ ،‬وقناعاً للعيني والقطعة البرز هي غطاء‬ ‫ملبس ّ‬ ‫وسادة من الكشمي والحرير لجعل الوسادة التي تقدّمها خطوط الطيان أكث راحة‪.‬‬ ‫ليس مجال السفر بالبعيد عن الثنائ ‪ Penny Klein‬و‪Heidi Gosman‬‬ ‫الختصة بلبس السباحة ‪Heidi Klein‬‬ ‫اللّتي ّأسستا العلمة التجاريّة الشهية‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫(ت ّم تصوير حملة العلنات لسنة ‪ 2015‬ف جزر فيجن البيطان ّية)‪ .‬نصيحة هاتي‬ ‫السيّدتي للنساء اللّوات سيستمتعن بالشمس هذا الوسم هي شاء لباس سباحة بيكيني‬ ‫مزدوجي الوجه (عل سبيل تصميمي ‪ São Paulo‬و‪ Jaipur‬من ‪Heidi‬‬ ‫‪ )Klein‬ودمجهم مع بعضهم البعض‪.‬‬ ‫ّأسست ‪ ،Christina Martini‬مص ّممة الكسسوارات السابقة لدى‬ ‫‪ Balenciaga‬و‪ ،Louis Vuitton‬علمة ‪Ancient Greek‬‬ ‫‪ Sandals‬التي حقّقت شهرة سيعة ف مجال الصنادل وانتعلت تصاميمها نساء‬ ‫بارزات مثل ‪ Jessica Alba‬و‪ .Candice Swanepoel‬تُصنع كل أحذية‬ ‫العلمة ف اليونان ومن المكن طبع الحرف ال ّول من إسمك عليها‪.‬‬ ‫للتخطيط لرحلتك بشكلٍ أفضل إن كانت أجهزتك الرقميّة بحوزتك‪ ،‬تنصحك‬ ‫‪ Martini‬بتطبيق ‪ Like a Local‬الذي ص ّنفه الوقع اللكتون الرائد ف‬ ‫مجال التكنولوجيا ‪ Mashable‬بالخمس نجوم‪ .‬تقول ف هذا الصدد‪”:‬يساعدك‬ ‫عل تفادي الفخاخ التي يقع فيها الس ّواح ويتيح لك فرصة استكشاف كنوز مخ ّبأة”‪.‬‬ ‫ل يكن مص ّممة الجوهرات الراقية الجنوب إفريقيّة ‪ Kirsten Goss‬أن تبقى‬ ‫بعيدة عن مصادر الطاقة الكهربائ ّية لفتة طويلة وتعتمد عل جهاز ‪Monster‬‬

‫‪ Powercard‬الحمول لشحن أجهزة الـ ‪ iPhone‬و‪ .iPad‬تضيف ضاحكة‪:‬‬ ‫“فيه مستوى غي معقول من الطاقة وقد خلّصني من عدّة مواقف صعبة”‪.‬‬ ‫وأخيا ً‪ ،‬ف ما يتعلّق بحقيبة السفر‪ ،‬يلجأ التقليديّون إل العلمة البيطانيّة ‪Globe-‬‬ ‫‪ Trotter‬التي تصنع الحقائب يدويّاً بحسب الطلب ف إنجلتا من اللواح اللّيفيّة‬ ‫العالجة‪ .‬إن كنت ف لندن‪ ،‬اقصد التجر الرئيس الجديد للشكة ف ‪Mayfair‬‬ ‫حيث يكنك الطّلع عل مجموعة ‪ Albermarle‬الجديدة من الجلد بلون‬ ‫الخاصة بالتجر‪ .‬وإن كنت ترغب بشء عصي تاماً‪ ،‬اخت حقيبة‬ ‫الكراميل والحمر‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪ Rimowa Titanium‬التعدّدة العجلت‪ .‬اشتت ‪ Goss‬مجموعة من‬ ‫ثلث حقائب منذ حوال العش سنوات وتقول عنها ‪”:‬بالرغم من الكدمات واللكمت‬ ‫التي تلقّتها هذه الحقائب ف خلل أسفاري حول العال‪ ،‬ما زلت أعتمد عليها‪”.‬‬ ‫قد تكون ابتكارات ‪ Moynat‬الخيار النسب للسفر الفاخر‪ّ .‬أسست ‪Pauline‬‬ ‫‪ Moynat‬العلمة ف باريس سنة ‪ 1849‬لتصميم حقائب بحسب الطلب تتّسع ف‬ ‫صندوق السيّارة ويكن تنسيق لونها مع لون السيّارة‪ .‬مع تعيي ‪Ramesh Nair‬‬ ‫مديرا ً فن ّياً جديدا ً للشكة وقد كان سابقاً مص ّممً لدى ‪ ،Hermès‬ت ّوقّع ابتكارات‬ ‫لكل مسافر‪.‬‬ ‫جديدة من هذه القطع الساسيّة ّ‬ ‫بفضل هذه النصائح السديدة لسفر ٍة متألّقة ومريحة‪ ،‬باتت الرحلة الوقّفة‬ ‫مضمونة‪.‬‬

‫‪louisvuitton.com, madeleine-thompson.com,‬‬ ‫‪heidiklein.com, ancient-greek-sandals.com,‬‬ ‫‪globetrotter1897.com, moynat.com‬‬ ‫‪In Focus: Montblanc’s Meisterstück Pen: 52‬‬

‫إنجازات ب ّراقة‬

‫ُعتب قلم الحب السائل الشهي من ‪ Montblanc‬تصميمً كلسيكيّاً من تاريخ‬ ‫إطلقه منذ تسعي سنة‪ .‬تطّلع ‪ Sally McIlhone‬عل أسباب تألّقه الدائم‬ ‫سنة ‪ ،1924‬تح ّول قلم الحب السائل التواضع إل قطعة مرغوبة‪ .‬وذلك ف السنة‬ ‫التي أطلقت ‪ Montblanc‬أداة الكتابة ‪ Meisterstück‬العروفة اليوم‪،‬‬ ‫كل رجل سلطة من ‪ Barack Obama‬إل ‪Nelson‬‬ ‫وهي قلم استخدمه ّ‬ ‫‪.Mandela‬‬ ‫كل حرف أن يصنع‬ ‫شتق السم من تقليد ألان قديم بحيث عل ّ‬ ‫يُ ّ‬ ‫‪Meisterstück‬؛ أي “تحفة فن ّية” لظهار مهاراته ‪,‬ويُقبل ف مجال‬ ‫العمل ذات الصلة‪ .‬يفس ‪ Christian Rauch‬مدير أدوات الكتابة لدى‬ ‫‪ Montblanc‬قائلً‪“ :‬أحببنا الفكرة كثيا ً وق ّررنا بالتال تطبيق روح ّية‬ ‫بغض النظر إن كان أداة‬ ‫‪ Meisterstück‬عل كل شء لدى ‪ّ Montblanc‬‬ ‫للكتابة أو سلعة جلديّة أو ساعة‪”.‬‬ ‫بعد أن ابتكرت ‪ Montblanc‬قلمها الذي اعتُب “تحفة فنيّة”‪ ،‬تردّدت الشكة‬ ‫بإجراء تعديلت عل التصميم‪ .‬ف النهاية‪ ،‬لَ العبث با هو مثال؟ يقول ‪:Rauch‬‬ ‫“أُجر َِي التغيي الحقيقي الخي ف بداية الخمسينات‪ .‬ومذّاك‪ ،‬ل نقم إل بتعديلت‬ ‫بسيطة؛ عل سبيل الثال‪ ،‬ط ّورنا طريقة عملها ف الرحلت الجويّة‪ .‬المر شبيه بالنظر‬ ‫تغيه‪”.‬‬ ‫يتغي لسنوات بالرغم من ّ‬ ‫إل شعار ‪ Coca-Cola‬والظ ّن بأنّه ل ّ‬ ‫يتغيا إل القليل‪ .‬يقول ‪ Rauch‬ف هذا‬ ‫أ ّما شكل القلم وروح ّيته بالجمل‪ ،‬فلم ّ‬ ‫الطار‪“ :‬إن طلبت من أي شخص أن يرسم قلم حب سائل من نيجييا إل باريس‪،‬‬ ‫لرسم ما يبدو كـ ‪ Meisterstück‬ولهذا السبب نلتزم هذا الشكل إل ح ّد كبي”‪.‬‬ ‫يُدرس كل تعديل ُمقتح بتأنّ‪“ .‬بناسبة عيد الشكة التسعي‪ ،‬ابتكرنا وللم ّرة الول‬ ‫تصميمً بالذهب الزهري‪ .‬يتوافر قلم ‪ Meisterstück‬بأربعة أحجام وبالعادة‬ ‫نس الحجم الكب وهو الـ ‪ .149‬لك ّننا ابتكرنا هذه ال ّرة نسخة منه بالذهب‬ ‫ل ّ‬ ‫الزهري وناقشنا الوضوع لكث من سنة مع مجلس الدارة والستشارين الخارج ّيي‬ ‫وأصدقائنا من ‪( Richemont‬مجموعة السلع الفاخرة السويسيّة التي تشكّل‬ ‫‪ Montblanc‬حال ّياً جزءا ً منها)‪ ...‬وأخيا ً نفّذنا التصميم وأحببناه – لكّنه كان‬


90

Postcard

MEISSEN Meissen, Europe’s frst manufacturer of porcelain, was founded in 1710 and has maintained its reputation for excellence for over 300 years. Commissioned by Augustus the Strong, Elector of Saxony and King of Poland, the frst manufactory was established at Albrechtsburg castle in the German town of Meissen. Quality of the highest degree has always been Meissen’s primary aim. The process of refning materials takes several globalblue.com

months, and every item is handmade and handpainted by a team of skilled specialists who train for a minimum of three years and often far longer. As well as stunning porcelain fgurines, collectibles and home accessories, Meissen ofers a range of beautiful jewellery pieces that combine luxury materials such as gold and diamonds with Meissen porcelain. These unique creations are a wearable souvenir of three centuries of excellence. hl Meissen, Alsterarkaden 7, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3500 4868, meissen.com * for map go to page 74




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