SHOP Italy Style SS14

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MONTBL ANC

NICOLAS RIEUSSEC CHRONOGR APH AUTOMATIC

A tribute to Nicolas Rieussec, the inventor of the first patented chronograph. Montblanc Manufacture Calibre , second time zone with day and night display. Crafted in the Montblanc Manufacture in Le Locle, Switzerland.

Boutiques and Authorized Dealers Visit and shop montblanc.com


©T&CO. 2014

Pure As Sunlight RARE IS A YELLOW DIAMOND. RARER STILL ONE PURE AS SUNLIGHT. A TIFFANY YELLOW DIAMOND. RARE IS THE WOMAN WHO WEARS ONE.


MILANO BOLOGNA FIRENZE ROMA VERONA TIFFANY.COM








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Editor’s Letter Athens and Thessaloniki Austria Barcelona Belgium Berlin Buenos Aires Cologne Copenhagen ILLUSTRATION: pAUL x jOhNSON

Cyprus

Welcome to Italy

Чехия Düsseldorf Estonia Frankfurt French Riviera

‫دليل ألانيا‬ 德国指南

Руководство Германия Gothenburg

This SHOP guide will help you discover all that Italy has to ofer, including the best luxury department stores, boutiques and concept stores, as well as recommendations for restaurants, bars and special places to visit. The new Global Blue mobile app is another great way to fnd the very latest on your chosen destination – there are more details in our news section on page 59. As part of Global Blue, a Tax Free Shopping market leader, SHOP publishes essential guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. For the very latest information, visit our website, globalblue.com, fnd us on Facebook at Facebook.com/GlobalBlue, follow us on Twitter @GlobalBlue or email me at echeevers@globalblue.com. Claiming your tax savings is even easier with the new Global Blue Card – signing up is free and you can fnd all the details on the Global Blue website.

Hamburg Hanover Helsinki Area Holland Iceland Istanbul Italy Lake Saimaa Lebanon London Madrid Milan Munich Naples Oslo Paris Portugal Prague Riga Rimini and Riccione Rome Singapore Stockholm Stuttgart Switzerland Vienna

Emma Cheevers globalblue.com

Vilnius



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Shop Floor E DI TOR I A L Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers Managing editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Neil Webb Contributors Beth Druce, Fiona McKenzie Johnston Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Ruairidh Pritchard Features editor Stephen Doig City guide and lifestyle editor Verity Hogan Fashion and news editor Dominique Fenn Assistant fashion and market editor Ximena Daneri Assistant fashion and news editors Hannah Lewis, Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion assistant Gemma Latham Editorial interns India Block, Sammy Ha Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew Picture editor Dorcas Brown Assistant picture editors Kirsty Andrews, Sarah Beyts Picture assistants Grace Bird, Mónica Goya Artworker Adam Dhaliwal Artworking assistants Harveen Ghattaure, Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala, Shirley Lau

PU BL ISH I NG Publisher James Morris Online editor Kirsty Welsh Online commercial editor Sally Ashley-Cound Online editorial assistant Katie Ramsingh Online assistants Marina Nelson, Emily Scrivener Commercial editor Justine Clifton Commercial artworker Laura Soler Commercial artworking assistant Dan O’Brien Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese commercial editor Xue Cheng Chinese fashion editor Jiafei Fei Chinese contributing editor Qingya He Chinese translators Bingjie Ao, Yinzhang Lin, Jun Liu, Shi Yin, Yi Zhang Chinese intern Daniel Huang Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok Associate Russian editor Daria Orlova Assistant Russian editor Kira Savchenko Russian editorial assistant Linda Blank Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Japanese editor Kyoko Nishimoto SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 www.globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Digital manager Eamonn Leacy Digital production manager Funmi Paul-Taiwo Product manager Luca Russo Project manager Omar Haque International digital marketing executive Nina Kobalia Digital production assistant Paul Lecoanet Advertising and partnership manager Riccardo Canini Distribution project manager Claudia Suárez Print Dane Consultancy

G L O B A L B L U E I TA LY Country manager Stefano Rizzi Marketing sales managers Antonella Bertossi, Flavio Gatti Marketing sales specialist Eleonora Busico Sales key account manager Salvatore Smith Sales account manager Erika Zahar International key account managers Stefano Cardinale, Sabrina Schiavone Key account managers Monica Affaticati, Benedetta Andreini, Caterina de Bernardo, Manuela Intili, Consuelo Murari, Alberta Reinach, Marco Savino Account managers Nicoletta Aromando, Alessandro Bonincontro, Rodolfo Borella, Nadia Busletta, Gloria di Domenico, Laura Durante, Gabriele Giuntini, Francesca Ramiccia, Giordano Senzacqua Global Blue, Via Carlo Noé 33, Gallarate 21013, Varese, Italy

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2014 Global Blue



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Neil Webb Neil Webb created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Italy Style. He has previously been commissioned by the Economist, the Folio Society and the Independent, among others. His witty, elegant and engaging artwork makes him the perfect choice for this cover, inspired by the feature about men’s accessories on page 60, which shows a pair of leather brogues with Italian scenes in place of the usual tooling. Read more about our cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

PHOTO: © MARcUS DAWES

ILLUSTRATION: NEIL WEBB

Contributors

Beth Druce Beth Druce is a fashion and luxury writer and creative consultant. Armed with an MA from Central Saint Martins, she began her career at GQ magazine, before heading to Europe to explore the world of horology. These days she can be found exploring the Alps, combining her interest in watches and fne jewellery with skiing. globalblue.com

Fiona McKenzie Johnston Fiona McKenzie Johnston lives in London with her two very young children, who spend their days accompanying their mother on studio visits and shoots and to countless galleries and boutiques so that Fiona can continue to fle copy on the best of London fashion and design for various Vogue titles.



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Contents p.68

P ro d u c t s 22 Check Out sHoP selects a standout piece from Italy this season 24 My Favourites desa’s creative director Yossi cohen reveals his top tips for autumn/winter 2013/14 26 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories 36 Street Style our pick of Italy’s best dressed during Milan Fashion Week N eWs 38 Shop Window one store not to be missed in Italy 40 News seasonal updates on shops, services and new products

F e at u r e s 60 Cover Story: All In The Detail Italy’s leather accessories are a hit with men worldwide thanks to superb craftsmanship and design, says ruairidh Pritchard 68 A Touch Of Glass Murano’s glassmakers have a well-deserved reputation for innovation and excellence, as Fiona McKenzie Johnston explains 76 Undercover Luxury Beth druce examines the enduring appeal of Italy’s historic shopping arcades e x Pe r I e Nce 82 Table Talk even Italy’s casual eateries are a gourmet experience, says Verity Hogan 88 My Weekend sHoP shares the highlights of an indulgent short break in Venice

Above: Patricia Urquiola glass for Murano’s Berengo Studio



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Contents GU I DE 94 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Rome, Milan, Venice and Florence

T R A N S L AT I O N S 136 Русский Перевод 145 美文翻译 149 日本語翻訳

ESSENTIA LS 132 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

POSTcA R D 154 SHOP writes home about Luigi Bevilacqua

Destination & buyinG GuiDes Don’t waste a minute on your travels –

Daily shoppinG news

use our dedicated destination and product

We’ve got the latest information on

guides. We take you through the most

destination shopping, whether it’s

exclusive local shopping areas and give you

the new season’s collections, store

in-depth buying advice on how to make a

openings or limited-edition pieces.

great investment in the right luxury piece. EN GLI SH | Р ус с к и й | 中 文

Get social Follow the Global Blue editors on the move for up-to-the-minute shopping tips and insider information.

/GlobalBlue /GlobalBlueRu @GlobalBlue @环球蓝联-GlobalBlue @环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com

win monthly competitions We’ve got great giveaways for our readers to win, from the latest accessories and shopping vouchers to luxury hotels stays.

/globalblue /globalblue /globalblue

globalblue.com



22 | P RO D U C T S

Check Out

VIVA PRADA Prada has created many iconic designs since it was founded in 1913, and this classic and unfussy bag in a rich shade of sapphire is destined to be another. Quietly luxurious, the Bluette Safano Cuir is the antithesis of fashy with its subtle branding and concealed interior pockets. Form and function are wholly united; the beautifully Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 132

designed metal locks are aesthetically pleasing and serve to keep your prized possessions secure. Designed to last a lifetime, with its durable leather lining and double handle, the bag ofers an unmissable opportunity to lay your hands on a piece of Italian style. ib Prada Bluette Safano Cuir bag, â‚Ź1,900, Prada, Via Montenapoleone 8, 20121 Milan, +39 02 777 1771, prada.com for map go to page 108

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WE ARE CONNECTED #DiEsElREbOOT DiEsEl PlANET sTORE MilANO Piazza san babila 1/3 DiEsEl sTORE FiRENZE Via dei lamberti, 13/ R DiEsEl sTORE VENEZiA s. Marco 5315-16 (Ponte di Rialto) DiEsEl sTORE VERONA Viale Mazzini, 68 DiEsEl sTORE ROMA CORsO Via del Corso, 118 NEXT OPENiNG APRil 2014: Piazza di spagna,18 - angolo Vicolo del bottino, 1 Roma


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My Favourites: yossi Cohen Yossi Cohen is creative director of the luxury leatherware lebel Desa, and divides his time between his home in Milan and Istanbul, where the brand is based. Before he took up the role at Desa, the New York and Tel Aviv-trained designer – who is also an artist, sculptor and painter – worked for a number of other top fashion brands. He shares his insider knowledge of Milan and his tips for spring/ summer 2014 with SHOP’s Dominique Fenn desa.com.tr

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1. ‘In Milan I like to buy fashion items from Excelsior and Muji’ Excelsior, Galleria del Corso 4, 20122 Milan, +39 02 7630 7301, excelsiormilano.com

2. ‘I also love to shop at vintage stores such as Cavalli e Nastri, or search for great vintage furniture at Fragile Milano’ Cavalli e Nastri, Via Brera 2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7200 0449, cavallienastri.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 132

3. ‘My signature fragrance at the moment is Molecule 02’ Escentric Molecule 02, €129, Antonioli, Via Pasquale Paoli 1, 20143 Milan, +39 02 3656 6494, escentric.com


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4. ‘My favourite Desa bag of the season? That’s like asking a father which of his children he likes best. However, developing the Six bag, the Seven bag and the Four bag was fun …’

5. ‘I always carry my Moleskine diary’

Desa Seven bag, €868.60, Antonioli, Via Pasquale Paoli 1, 20143 Milan, +39 02 3656 6494, desa.com.tr

globalblue.com

Moleskine diary, €16.10, Antonioli, Via Pasquale Paoli 1, 20143 Milan, +39 02 3656 6494, moleskine.com

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PURPLE HAZE

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Purple reigns supreme this season, and a splash of lilac is an easy way to try the trend 1

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1. Furla handbag, €220, Furla, Merceria San Salvador, San Marco 4833, 30124 Venice, +39 041 277 0460, furla.com

3. Miu Miu shoes, €550, Miu Miu, Via del Babuino 91, 00187 Rome, +39 06 3600 4884, miumiu.com

2. Cos waistcoat, €79, Cos, Via della Spada 1, 50123 Florence, +39 055 281093, cosstores.com

4. Burberry skirt, €2,995, Burberry, Via de’ Tornabuoni 29R, 50123 Florence, +39 055 293811, burberry.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 132

PHOTO: (2) PackSHOTfacTOry

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STYLE TO GO

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Make travelling more pleasurable with a selection of luxury accessories

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1. Tod’s crocodile-skin backpack, €25,500, Tod’s, Via de’ Tornabuoni 60R, 50123 Florence, +39 055 219423, tods.com

3. Ermenegildo Zegna glasses, €231, Ermenegildo Zegna, Via Montenapoleone 27E, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 6437, zegna.com

2. Louis Vuitton keychain harmonica, €950, Louis Vuitton, Via Montenapoleone 2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 777 1711, louisvuitton.com

4. Alberto Guardiani shoes, €353, Alberto Guardiani, Corso Venezia 6, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 1697, albertoguardiani.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 132

PHOTO: (5) RicHaRd GReen

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PHOTO: (6) STefanO Saccani

5. Canali scarf, €130, Canali, Via Pietro Verri 1-3, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7639 0365, canali.it 6. Bally holdall, €795, Bally, Merceria del Capitelo, San Marco 4919-4921, 30124 Venice, +39 041 528 5839, bally.com

globalblue.com

7. Sony tablet, €449, Cucciollo, Via del Tempio 6, 00186 Rome, +39 06 686 5102, sony.it


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GOLDEN GIRL

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Gleaming metallic accessories add polish to any outft

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1. Meissen necklace, €123,400, Villa Meissen, Via Montenapoleone 3, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8942 3725, meissen.com

3. Swarovski sunglasses, price on request, Swarovski, Via dei Calzaiuoli 43R, 50122 Florence, +39 055 216227, swarovski.com

2. Rosantica bracelet, €537, Gente, Via del Babuino 77, 00187 Rome, +39 06 320 7671, rosantica.com

4. Blumarine handbag, €600, Blumarine, Via della Spiga 30, 20121 Milan, +39 02 795081, blumarine.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 132



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CLUB TROPICANA

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When the temperature rises, be inspired by an exotic colour palette 4 1

1. Shourouk necklace, €1,225, Luisa Via Roma, Via Roma 19R-21R, 50123 Florence, +39 055 906 4116, luisaviaroma.com 2. Jimmy Choo sandals, €750, Jimmy Choo, Via dei Condotti 68A, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 2667, jimmychoo.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 132

3. M Missoni purse, €299, M Missoni, Corso Venezia 2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3651 0974, m-missoni.com 4. Pinko dress, €298, Pinko, Merceria San Zulian, San Marco 712, 30124 Venice, +39 041 241 3144, pinko.it

PHOTO: (2) RicHaRd Valencia PHOTOgRaPHy

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S/S 2014

SHOP AT TRUSSARDI.COM


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ABOUT A BOY Mannish tailoring is an easy way to create efortless ofduty style

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1. Trussardi handbag, €1,520, Trussardi, Via dei Condotti 49-50, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 0280, trussardi.com

3. Roberto Coin ring, €1,832, Roberto Coin, Piazza San Marco, San Marco 131, 30124 Venice, +39 041 522 4563, robertocoin.com

2. Closed shirt, €299, Maria Savini, Viale Adriatico 9-11, 00141 Rome, +39 06 817 3217, closed.com

4. Mango trousers, €24.99, Mango, Via del Corso 170-170A & 171-171A, 00187 Rome, +39 06 699 1105, mango.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 132

PHOTO: (1) PAOLA PANSINI; (3) ANdreA FerrerO

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OMEN

Attendees at Milan Fashion Week showed how to look sophisticated in the summer heat, opting for light cotton dresses, crisp white shirts, linen blazers and the new hemline – mid length, always paired with heels. Our top look? The playful gorillaprint dress from young Italian label Au Jour Le Jour Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 132

PHOTOS: EmanuElE D’angElO/livincOOl.cOm

Street Style


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globalblue.com


38 | N E W S

PHOTO: david andre weiSS

Shop Window

SCENTS OF HISTORY As one of the only perfumeries in the world to produce and sell its fragrances entirely in one location, Aquafor is a very special fnd. The company’s shop and laboratory is located in the historic Palazzo Antinori on Florence’s Borgo Santa Croce; the space has been carefully restored to its original glory and has beautiful views of the courtyard, a perfect example of Renaissance architecture. Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 132

Following an ancient and painstaking process to create its perfume, Aquafor produces small quantities of scent of the highest quality. For a truly special experience, arrange to meet master perfumer Sileno Cheloni by appointment for a guided tour into his hidden world. For the ultimate keepsake, take away a bespoke scent, created using the rare and precious essences – more than 1,400 of them – in Aquafor’s laboratory. irs Aquafor Firenze, Borgo Santa Croce 6, 50122 Florence, +39 055 234 3471



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BEST FOOT FORWARD Rooted in Florentine tradition, Stefano Bemer makes bespoke men’s shoes for discerning clients. It is named after its founder, a talented shoemaker who spent 29 years refning his skills; now under the stewardship of Florence’s famous Scuola del Cuoio (school of leather) and Tommaso Melani, the label ofers both a ready-to-wear line and made-to order service, and

TOP OF THE GLASS Finnish design brand Iittala, known for its stunning glasswork and unique homewares, has just opened its frst showroom and shop in Italy, on prestigious Corso Monforte in Milan. Spread over three foors, the space contains Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 132

has plans to launch a new ready-towear boutique soon. irs Stefano Bemer, Via San Niccolò 2, 50121 Florence, +39 055 046 0476, stefanobemer.com

an extensive showroom featuring the full Iittala collection as well as a shop on the ground foor where visitors can pick up the latest products. The elegance and innovation of the designs available are wonderfully suited to Italy’s style capital. hl Iittala, Corso Monforte 19, 20122 Milan, +39 02 7602 2367, iittala.com * for map go to page 107



PHOTO: LeO TOrri

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HOORAY FOR HERMÈS Fans of Hermès will be glad to hear that the French fashion house has opened a new store on Milan’s luxurious Via Montenapoleone. Hermès frst came to Milan in 1987 and the new large, modern shop ofers a more extensive range than ever before. The ground foor houses fragrances, silk, menswear and accessories while upstairs visitors can browse jewellery, watches, womenswear and accessories as well as homeware and equestrian goods. The store also exhibits paintings and photographs from the Hermès collection of artwork. This is a beautiful setting for a brand that is committed to making beautiful things. hl Hermès, Via Montenapoleone 12, 20121 Milan, + 39 02 7600 3495, hermes.com * for map go to page 108 Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 132

TIME TRAVEL The TimeWalker World-Time Hemispheres watches are a necessity for globetrotters. They simultaneously display the time in 24 time zones, while the local time wherever the wearer is located is shown by the hands. The names of 24 cities, representing the 24 time zones, are written around the dial and a 24-hour disc indicates the hours at each location. irs Montblanc, Via de’ Tornabuoni 63R, 50123 Florence, +39 055 292050, montblanc.com * for map go to page 122




PHOTO: DariO Lasagni

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SWEET TREATS Guido Gobino is considered to be one of the world’s leading artisanal chocolatiers, and has been producing confectionery for over 50 years. It is widely known for its delicious Giandujotto and Gianduja spreads, made according

to traditional recipes from Turin. Today, the company continues to innovate; look out for the Cremini range which includes dark chocolate with sea salt and Ligurian extra virgin olive oil. irs Guido Gobino, Corso Giuseppe Garibaldi 39, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8909 6601, guidogobino.it

DIESEL’S ROCK ’N’ ROLL HIT Inspired by the British music scene, Diesel’s latest collection has a new aesthetic and a rebellious attitude for spring/summer. Under the new direction of super-stylist Nicola Formichetti the brand has updated its look across all lines. The frst part of the collection focuses on black, adding a contemporary sportswear twist to key items such as the biker jacket. The line introduces a new denim style, the Sleenker, a versatile look which is the slimmest model available in the male collection. Our pick is the timeless parka coat with leather detailing. irs globalblue.com

Diesel, Salizada Pio X, San Marco 5315, 30124 Venice, +39 041 241 1937, diesel.com


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FABULOUS FENDI

Knitwear is an essential part of Stefanel’s spring/summer collection and the Italian brand has an admirable choice this season. A lightweight sweater is a must when travelling, and whether you prefer loose silhouettes, boxy shapes or oversized looks, you can be sure to fnd something that suits your style at the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II store. We’re fans of this monochrome sweater; paired with rolled-up trousers and canvas pumps, it makes the perfect outft for exploring the city. df Stefanel, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II 7, 20121 Milan, +39 02 805 1110, stefanel.com * for map go to page 110

When in Rome it really would be wrong not to visit Fendi. Founded in the city in 1925, it continues to push fashion boundaries. There is no better place to browse the spring/summer collection than in the stunning palazzo fagship on Via del Corso. This season’s line, described by artistic director Karl Lagerfeld as inspired by ‘the world of informatics’, is light and colourful: the organza is either vibrantly printed or paper thin and plain, creating a featherlight fnish, while the laser-cut leather is an example of the craftsmanship for which Fendi is known. irs Fendi, Largo Goldoni, 00187 Rome, +39 06 334501, fendi.com * for map go to page 102

PHOTO: IMAXTREE.COM

SIMPLY STEFANEL

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 132



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LOEWE ARRIVES IN ROME Loewe, known for exquisite leather goods, has unveiled its frst stand-alone Italian store in Rome. The Spanish luxury brand’s new two-storey boutique is fttingly located close to the Piazza di Spagna and the Spanish Steps. Designed by architect Peter Marino, the interior has an warm, elegant atmosphere. Stucco walls in white and three diferent shades of gold are juxtaposed with brass shelves and curtains in gold leather – the

CAVALLI’S MILAN HOME Located on Milan’s Corso Giacomo Matteotti, next to Via Montenapoleone, Just Cavalli’s fagship store epitomises the brand’s young and vibrant style. Spread over two foors, the boutique is home to both the women’s and men’s ready-to-wear Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 132

material that has made Loewe a leading label. On the ground foor you’ll fnd the latest accessories, including bags, silk scarves, belts and sunglasses for both men and women. Upstairs, where visitors can enjoy the view of the Spanish Steps, is devoted to womenswear, the Leather Icons collection and the VIP Room. Fans of Loewe’s best-selling Amazona bag should visit the in-store Amazona Atelier, which ofers a customising service for Loewe’s classic tote. irs Loewe, Piazza di Spagna 70-71, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 3598, loewe.com * for map go to page 97

collection and accessories, including Just Cavalli’s much-admired range of jewellery and watches. The store’s interior recalls that of a metropolitan urban loft, featuring plenty of metallic fxtures that set of the brand’s signature print and colour perfectly. irs Just Cavalli, Corso Giacomo Matteotti 18, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7628 0740, robertocavalli.com * for map go to page 107



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A WORLD OF COLOUR Founded in the 1980s, Paolo Rossello Secondhand, better known as Parosh, gives a wonderful new life to fabrics and items which might otherwise be discarded. The creative team, headed by Rossello, is committed to reinvention and innovation, reimaging and upgrading unloved clothes and materials in the vibrant workshops. Rufed silks, dyed cashmere and opaque sequins are just a few of the luxury touches found in the womenswear collection. Admire them in the Milan boutique, whose white interior is a blank canvas against which the clothes’ extravagant colours can take centre stage. hl Parosh, Via Santo Spirito 14, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7601 5801, parosh.it Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 132

JEWEL OF ITALY Family-owned jeweller Currado has become known throughout Italy. Its pieces are made in the town of Valenza, famous for jewellery production, by skilled artisans who maintain the brand’s high standards at every step, from stone selection to the fnishing touches. The company has stores in San Remo, Milan and Asti, where customers will fnd a vast range of jewellery as well as antique pieces and silver and crystal accessories. irs Currado, Piazza del Duomo 21, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7200 0039, gioielleriacurrado.it * for map go to page 110




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HOME CHIC HOME Known for bringing the best homeware to Venice, Riccardo and Susanna Cargnel are the dynamic duo behind Venice’s Caigo da Mar. Originally a fashion designer, Susanna studied design in Paris and worked as a handbag designer in New York before moving to Italy; her husband Riccardo is a local. Together they have created an elegant and inviting boutique in a building that dates back to the 15th century. The name Caigo da Mar means ‘mist from the sea’ in the

AMAZING GREYS

Venetian dialect, evoking the city’s mysterious charm. Inside you’ll fnd the full Fornasetti collection alongside divine scented candles from Cire Trudon and a very stylish edit of lighting and soft furnishings. irs Caigo da Mar, Calle de le Boteghe, San Marco 3131, 30124 Venice, +39 041 243 3238, caigodamar.com globalblue.com

From pewter to silver to charcoal, Brioni’s latest collection is proof that grey is anything but dull. Creative director Brendan Mullane has taken the art and architecture of Rome as the starting point for a sleek, fashion-forward menswear collection. Graphic lines and structured layers have been incorporated into Brioni’s aesthetic: classic suits get a contemporary twist with subtle patterns and slim cuts, while a collaboration with Fredrikson Stallard has resulted in accessories such as a yellow-gold tie pin and cufinks which are perfect against crisp white shirts. hl Brioni, Via Barberini 79, 00187 Rome, +39 06 484517, brioni.com


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WHEN MARELLA MET MILLA

IOSSELLIANI’S NEW HOME IN ROME Well-known Italian jewellery brand Iosselliani opened its frst store in Rome in 2005 and has since gone on to open fagships in Tokyo, Osaka and New York. The designers behind the elegant brand Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 132

Marella, Via Frattina 129-131, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 3800, marella.com * for map go to page 98

are Roberta Paolucci and Paolo Giacomelli, who draw inspiration from classic and symbolic pieces, reinterpreting them in striking modern materials such as steel mesh and silver to create intricate hand-crafted designs. irs Iosselliani R-01-IOS, Via del Leone 21, 00186 Rome, +39 06 4544 9987, iosselliani.com

PHOTOS (frOm TOP): PaPerOPOli/maTTia gelSi; glanluca mOrO

This season Marella continues its collaboration with Milla Jovovich, producing Milla’s Bag for spring/summer. The new version is an over-the-shoulder design with a statement buckle and adjustable leather strap, available in three tempting styles. Choose between the white leather version with a python-print calfskin fap, the tropical model with ostrich and crocodile patchwork or – our favourite – the charming Lagoon mini bag in turquoise. irs



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with the local community and craftspeople, the Associazione organises exhibitions and events which emphasise the historical and cultural signifcance of the Ponte Vecchio and promote the association’s values of quality, reliability and craftsmanship. irs

PHOTO: STuDiO maCHina

The Associazione Ponte Vecchio is a 400-year-old organization that represents the jewellers located on Florence’s most famous bridge, the Ponte Vecchio. After enjoying the breathtaking views from the bridge, visitors can see the jewellery makers in action; from designers to engravers and carvers to stone setters, the area ofers a fascinating insight into the city’s long-established jewellery industry. Working closely

PHOTO: DanTe CarDini

BRIDGE OF GOLD

LUXURY FOR LESS Luxury Mall’s Soratte Outlet Shopping is less than 60km from Rome in the picturesque setting of Monte Soratte natural reserve. It’s the brands that matter here, however, and the store list reads like a who’s who of international fashion: Chloé to Cavalli, Valentino Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 132

to Versace, all ofering year-round discounts of between 30% and 70%. Italian fashion is particularly well represented, and at no more than six months old the items from Dolce & Gabbana, Versace and Love Moschino – among others – are endlessly desirable. irs Soratte Outlet Shopping, Piazza Felice Abballe 1, 00060 Sant’Oreste, +39 0761 56541, soratteoutlet.it, luxurymallitaly.com


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PHOTO: ALFONSO CATALANO/SGP ITALIA

SHOP THE WORLD

VERSACE’S NEW HERITAGE Versace’s newly opened boutique in Rome’s Piazza di Spagna, the second Versace store in the city, encapsulates the brand’s talent for marrying forward-looking designs with its impressive heritage. The new boutique has mosaic foors inspired by Byzantine churches, contrasted with futuristic Perspex walls and shelves. Created in collaboration with English architect Jamie Fobert, this skilful blend of traditional Italian opulence and architectural style perfectly mirrors Versace’s own balance between old and new. The store carries prêt-à-porter for men and women alongside an extensive range of accessories. kr Versace, Piazza di Spagna 12, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 0521, versace.com * for map go to page 97 globalblue.com

Using our wealth of insider knowledge, we have created a smartphone app to help you to plan your trips. The app gives information on 45 cities in 22 countries – thousands of stores are listed and located on maps, with full contact details and a description of what each store sells. Our maps guide you right to the store, step-by-step, from your current location and can also be downloaded for offine use. If you’re looking for something specifc, or a particular brand, use our search option to locate it – you can even create your own itinerary. The app is available in Chinese, English and Russian, and includes a Tax Refund Calculator to tell you how much you’ll save. There are also instructions on how to use Currency Choice, our service that allows you to pay in your home currency. globalblue.com

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Superb craftsmanship coupled with impeccable design: no wonder Italy’s fne leather accessories labels are proving such a hit with men around the world, says Ruairidh Pritchard 136 / 149

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Above: Cellerini’s cuting workshop

PHOTO: © Gianni CeCCanTi

ALL IN THE DETAIL


The Made in Italy label has been synonymous with exceptional quality for centuries. Those in the know have always valued the traditional skills of the country’s artisans who today, more than ever, are turning their talents to producing the fnest leather accessories

for men. From shoes to hats, bags to belts and wallets to luggage, Italian handcrafted leather goods are reaching new heights of luxury. One of Italy’s success stories is Cellerini. Started by Silvano Cellerini in the early 1950s, the label began with just one sewing



PHOTO: © GiAnni CeCCAnTi

S H O P | 63

machine and a hide, bought with a small inheritance. A decade later Cellerini and his wife had expanded the business, creating leather handbags and luggage for some of the most afuent Florentine families of the time. Now the label is headed up by the founder’s daughter Alessandra, who is keen to ensure that her parents’ dedication to peerless quality endures. Many of the working practices that went into creating Cellerini’s frst bag are still followed: all leather cutting is done entirely by hand by the label’s ex-

perienced craftspeople. The pieces are then painstakingly trimmed by hand before being sewn together, a process which has been assisted by the advancements in manufacturing technology. Similarly, Cellerini continues to provide the level of personalisation that it ofered more than half a century ago. Thanks to a vast choice of calfskins, linings, threads and hardware, customers can have Cellerini create their very own bespoke Italian leather masterpiece. Another family-owned atelier with a claim to the title of ‘Italy’s

Above (clockwise from top lef): travel bags; men’s briefcase, both Cellerini; Alessandra Cellerini in the brand’s workshop


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fnest’ is Santoni, which has been creating some of the best handmade shoes to come out of Milan since it was set up in 1975 by Andrea Santoni. Over the decades, the label – now helmed by a second generation of Santonis – has expanded to become one of the country’s largest homegrown shoemakers, while keeping its key values of quality, passion for detail and working exclusively by hand intact. The brand’s two key pillars – innovation and tradition – still provide a solid foundation for its work. These days Santoni combines traditional expert hand craftsmanship with pioneering production techniques to ensure that every item of footwear fts as perfectly as possible, whether it’s a brogue or a Chelsea boot.

A great deal of efort goes into sourcing the most sought-after hides and fabrics to ensure that each style is comfortable, practical and durable as well as stylish. Nowhere is this more evident than in the brand’s latest Limited Edition Collection, whose designs and materials are overseen by Andrea Santoni himself. From the frst cut of the carefully selected leather to the fnal fre-branding with the Santoni mark, each step is done by hand, and there is no time limit for the creation of a single pair of shoes. Considering that one leather-tinting phase can require over 15 applications of colour, this proves that craftsmanship remains at the forefront of Santoni’s production. However, it isn’t just new Italian products that are fnding

Above (from top): both Santoni spring/summer 2014; Giuseppe Santoni photographed at Santoni’s Milan store with actors Pierfrancesco Favino, Juliete Binoche and Beppe Fiorello



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favour with well-heeled men; vintage and restored antique leather goods are becoming more popular among those looking to invest in some beautiful Italian leather. Bernardini in Milan is a treasure trove of lovingly restored and rare antique pieces. The store was founded by Max Bernardini in 1996, who was inspired by his father’s work in importing fne antiques for some of Italy’s wealthiest families. The inviting emporium, which even has its own full-time bartender, is home to an eclectic collection of rare and expertly sourced goods, ranging from vintage travel trunks, suitcases and vanity boxes from the likes of Prada and Gucci, many of them made to order for wealthy European explorers during expeditions to Africa in the early 20th century. The diversity and desirability of the stock is as clear an illustration as any of Italy’s Above: Santoni crafsmanship

Italian leather accessories are long-lasting style investments

long history of making high-quality leather goods. For the modern man, it’s clear that Italian leather accessories are not only long-lasting investments in style, but also ofer an intriguing insight into the rich tradition of expert craftsmanship and made-tomeasure personalisation that have long been the signature of a truly well-dressed man and a sign of Italian dedication to true luxury cellerini.it, santonishoes.com, bernardinimilano.it



A short vaporetto ride from the main island of Venice lies Murano, also known as ‘the glass island’ after the product for which it has been famous since the 10th century. ‘Venice would hardly be the same without the diaphanous chandeliers that refect the light like old-cut precious jewels twin-

kling by candlelight,’ remarks editor, stylist, artist and designer Marko Matysik. ‘The exquisite hand-made quality gives each piece a uniqueness that I always marvel at.’ Exceptional examples of Murano glass are scattered the world over, for not only has it been widely

Murano’s glassmakers have a welldeserved reputation for innovation and excellence, acquired over many centuries, as Fiona McKenzie Johnston explains

A TOUCH OF GLASS

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Above: Salviati Profli vases

PHOTO: NORBERT HEYL

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exported, but there are also passionate collectors, along with a host of artists who have applied techniques they learnt on Murano to their own work: think of Dale Chihuly – who received a Fulbright Fellowship to study at the Venini factory – and his remarkable chandelier in the atrium of London’s

Victoria and Albert Museum. ‘The Venetians have been regarded as virtuoso glassmakers since Renaissance times,’ explains Audrey Whitty, curator of European glass at the Corning Museum of Glass. ‘They developed superior techniques and glass formulas. Their objects were highly sought


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after, and often copied. Today, many of the techniques and formulas developed on the island of Murano inform the creations of modern artists who work in glass.’ Glass is made from silica, which becomes liquid at high temperatures. As it cools again, there is a stage when it becomes malleable, a stage that Murano’s glassmakers exploit with impressive skill and imagination. Among the centuries-old techniques still in use today are glass with gold fecks (avventurina), rods cut into multicoloured slices (millefori) and opaque milk glass (lattimo) – as well as others which have been developed more recently, such as the layering of contrasting colours (sommerso). Above (from top): Fratelli Toso glassmakers at work in the 1950s; Kiku vase by Ermanno Toso for Fratelli Toso


M A X A N D C O.C OM

MILANO - ROMA - VENEZIA - FIRENZE TORINO - GENOVA - VERONA


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As most of the best factories don’t allow one to go and look around – they are, after all, in the business of making glass rather than entertaining visitors – the best way of learning more about all these techniques is at Murano’s Museo del Vetro (glass museum), which houses displays on the history of glassmaking, as well as

samples ranging from Egyptian times through to the present. Of course, it’s not all chandeliers. An enormous variety of other pieces are made in factories or in one of the many individual artists’ studios on Murano: elegant tableware, extraordinary statuary, paperweights, candlesticks, jewellery, stemware and any number of trinkets. One of the best-known names is Antica Vetreria Fratelli Toso, which has been run by the Toso family since 1854. Today, it’s mostly involved in promoting the Fratelli Toso collection, and has strong relationships with a number of private collectors, auction houses and museums worldwide. Pauly opened in 1866, and has a wide range of lighting and of coloured and decorative glasses, decanters and jugs. For something more contemporary or unusual in feel, Berengo Studio was established in 1989 with the intention of combining

Above (from top): Giò Ponti 99.80 chandelier by Giò Ponti for Venini; glass-making at the Venini factory


ROMA - MILANO - FIRENZE


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Murano glass-making traditions with contemporary art. Another famous name that has made a point of working with famous artists and designers is Venini, previously mentioned as where Chilhuly trained. Over the years, it has collaborated with several important fgures, including Giò Ponti and Carlo Scarpa, with new partnerships always being developed. Venini also ofers a bespoke service, should you wish for something unique for your home, or even for your yacht. The list doesn’t stop there. Another company that ofers an interiors service as well as take-away decorative items is Salviati, which also works with a number of designers; Barovier & Toso specialises in lighting, be it chandeliers, wall sconces or foor lamps; Ferro Murano makes everything from bowls to glass balustrades; and Seguso ofer lighting, glasses, vases and even furniture (tables with glass legs). Formia International is the place for the fashion conAbove: Patricia Urquiola for Berengo Studio

Whatever you buy you’ll be taking home a piece of Venetian history scious, as it designs the Murano glass ranges for both Roberto Cavalli and Armani Casa; then there is Simone Cenedese, Alessandro Mandruzzato, Gabbiani … The best way to check that you are buying glass from a reputable source is to visit the ofcial Murano Glass website, which has details of the trademark, and a full list of factories and stockists. What is certain is that there is something for everyone, and whatever you buy you’ll be taking home a piece of Venetian history. ‘The impulse to buy fragile champagne futes is always too great to resist,’ says Matysik. Why not just give in to temptation? muranoglass.com



UNDERCOVER LUXURY

Italy’s historic arcades provide so much more than boutiques displaying the most desirable fashion, jewellery and other delights. Beth Druce examines their enduring appeal 142 / 152

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Above: the domed glass roof of Milan’s Galleria Vitorio Emanuele II at night

PHOTO: CC- BY-SA 3.0/PIxEl frOM MArS/MICHEl ZOrIO

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In an era where retail spaces seem to evolve at the speed of light, Italy’s historic shopping arcades are long-standing beacons of social and urban culture that date back to the 1800s. The home of many a luxury brand, they are hubs for Italy’s social and creative networks, adding to their enduring appeal. ‘We call it il salotto [the living

room], where the beautiful people meet, shop and dine,’ explains Giulio Ruggieri, an Italian native and design director for a leading creative agency, talking about the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in Milan. Designed and built almost 150 years ago by Giuseppe Mengoni and named after the then king, it is Italy’s oldest and most famous shopping arcade.


PHOTO: c/O Prada

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Composed of two glass-vaulted arcades with an octagon where they intersect, its arching glass and cast-iron roof proved infuential in the design of retail spaces in the years that followed; both the glass roof and the term ‘galleria’ are evident in the design of shopping centres today. It was here that Mario Prada chose to open his frst store in 1913, where he sold a selection of leather goods, and which is still in operation. Together with Louis Vuitton, the Prada store takes centre stage in the Galleria’s imposing octagonal space. Dating back to the late 19th century, the Galleria Umberto I in Naples is situated opposite the San Carlo opera house, and was designed by Emanuele Rocco as part of the rejuvenation or risanamento of the city at that time. Tall and airy, it is topped by a glass dome braced by 16 metal ribs. After many years of being left to decay, it was returned to being an active centre of Neapolitan life and today is home to the boutique Art Resort Hotel, alongside shops and

Italy’s historic shopping arcades are long-standing beacons of social and urban culture cafés. On a smaller scale, the Galleria Alberto Sordi (previously the Galleria Colonna) in Rome, which opened in 1922, is notable for its ornate art nouveau stained glass. More modest than its Milanese and Neapolitan counterparts, it’s home to fashion and accessories labels and a bookshop, and is a popular and charming meeting place. If all of Italy’s historic arcades are a draw for the country’s elite, it’s the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II that is most famed for its clientele, many of whom have frequented the Savini, whose reputation since its launch in 1884 has been legendary. Giacomo Puccini,

Above: the Prada boutique in Galleria Vitorio Emanuele II



SINCE

1842 WORKING TO OFFER YOU

EXCELLENCE IN WATCH-MAKING AND JEWELRY RIGHT IN THE CENTRE OF MILAN.


PHOTO: GIACOMO BROGI

PHOTO: CC- BY-SA 3.0/MAuRIzIOfARnETTI

S H O P | 81

Giuseppe Verdi, Frank Sinatra, Ava Gardner and Grace Kelly are among the famous names to have dined at Savini, and Charlie Chaplin famously commented, ‘I’ve never eaten so well.’ The neighbouring Bar Zucca and Cafè Bif have a similarly starry following, the latter having been opened in 1867 by Paolo Bif, then pastry chef to the Italian royal family. That these popular haunts are nestled next to fashion houses such as Gucci (which has its own café where you can enjoy chocolates featuring its distinctive logo) and Tod’s, makes for a rather seductive mix. ‘The old tenants such as Savini add that romantic touch, the jewellery stores maintain the prestige,’ says Ruggieri. However, the history of Italy’s best-known arcade has not been without its controversial moments. During the 1990s the drive for exclusivity appeared to waver, and McDonalds was one of a handful of somewhat unexpected additions to the Galleria. While many fell by

the wayside, the hamburger chain traded for 20 years, right up until 2012, when the renewal of its tenancy was rejected. Ruggieri, for one, was relieved: ‘The city seems to have made it its goal to restore its cultural heritage.’ Such cultural heritage comes in the form of Prada, which launched the Prada Galleria project to mark the centenary of its frst boutique. The new menswear store includes a restaurant and exhibition space dedicated to the Prada Foundation which promotes contemporary art. And, while the motivation for the project was to reconnect the brand with its Milanese roots, it has also strengthened the relationship the Galleria has with the worlds of art, fashion and high society, in many ways the legacy on which its reputation has been built. What emerges is a partnership between retail and culture that is unsurpassed: an alluring, exclusive and inspiring place to shop, but – as Ruggieri highlights – ‘… frst of all, a place to be seen’

Above (from lef): Milan’s Galleria Vitorio Emanuele II, circa 1880; Galleria Alberto Sordi in Rome


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Table Talk Italy maintains its gourmet reputation even in its most casual eateries. Verity Hogan discovers the places that are drawing attention away from the country’s most luxurious dining rooms

Italian cuisine is world renowned; regardless of the environment in which it is served, the selection on ofer is diverse and universally delicious, based on fresh ingredients and complementary favours. There is an eatery to suit every taste and budget, from high-end luxury restaurants to more casual trattorias, each with a unique selling point. Regional diferences are marked; Milan embraces international infuences, Rome favours locally sourced globalblue.com

ingredients, Venice ofers diversity and an extensive seafood selection, and Florence specialises in gamebased dishes featuring venison, pheasant and wild boar. The country’s casual dining spots often draw from these regional traditions, providing authentic favours within comfortable environments. International convenience cuisine also has its place within Italy’s dining scene, with gourmet versions becoming especially popular.


S H O P | 83

T R aT T o R I a a n T Ic h e c a R a M pa n e antiche carampane’s relaxed atmosphere and classically Venetian cuisine have ensured its status as one of the city’s most popular local trattorias. The restaurant is located in the heart of Venice, moments from the Rialto, and ofers an unpretentious setting alongside its traditional menu. Seafood makes

up the majority of the menu; spaghetti with crab is a typical choice, while mullet in red wine, sea bass with pepper sauce and herbed beef with artichokes are also popular options. on warmer evenings, choose a seat on the terrace for an al fresco experience under the stars. Trattoria Antiche Carampane, Rio TerĂĄ carampane, San polo 1911, 30125 Venice, +39 041 524 0165, antichecarampane.com


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Tizzy’s ny BaR & GRiLL an authentic american diner in the heart of Milan, Tizzy’s ny Bar & Grill is the creation of a homesick new yorker. Capitalising on the gourmet-burger trend sweeping across europe, the restaurant ofers a menu of sandwiches, salads and burgers. The topping options are extensive, ranging from cheese and bacon to avocado and jalapeño peppers, while each sandwich is inspired by the favours of one of new york’s fve boroughs. Be sure to try the restaurant’s popular weekend brunch, including cinnamon French toast, eggs Benedict and stacked pancakes with a cup of american-style cofee. Tizzy’s NY Bar & Grill, Via alzaia naviglio Grande 46, 20144 Milan, +39 02 5811 8227, tizzysbarandgrill.com globalblue.com

L a T e n da Rossa La Tenda Rossa, in the hills outside Florence, has a relaxed ambience, large and well-spaced tables and a calming colour scheme. The menu showcases the best seasonal ingredients; typical options might include basil-encrusted loin of lamb in aubergine sauce or ravioli stufed with Tuscan vegetables. La Tenda Rossa, Piazza del Monumento 9-14, 50020 Cerbaia in Val di Pesa, +39 055 826132, latendarossa.it


WWW.PESERICO.IT

MILANO Via Solferino, 3 S.MARGHERITA LIGURE Via Palestro, 7 TORINO Via Gobetti, 1 VERONA Via Mazzini, 67


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PHOTO: GiusePPe AlberA

A l M e rc At o Bu rger BA r

c h e cc h i no dA l 18 87 checchino dal 1887’s menu of classic roman cuisine takes inspiration from the ofal-based quinto quarto tradition. the restaurant refects its traditional menu with a dining room full of old-world charm, featuring domed ceilings, wood-panelled walls and atmospheric chandelier lighting. the menu may be challenging at frst, globalblue.com

Al Mercato’s beef burgers, made with the fnest ingredients, are often named among the city’s best, and are complemented by imaginative toppings. these range from jalapeños, salsa and hummus to aged cheddar, avocado and foie gras. those not in the mood for a burger should try the global street food, which includes fried chicken wings, fsh tacos and a particularly delicious pulled-pork sandwich. Al Mercato Burger Bar, Via Sant’eufemia 16, 20122 Milan, +39 02 8723 7167, al-mercato.it/burger-bar-it

but helpful members of staf are on hand to guide diners through the more unusual options; try rabbit with a black olive and white wine sauce or checchino’s speciality, oxtail stew, which includes celery, pine nuts, raisins and a sprinkle of bitter chocolate. Checchino dal 1887, Via di Monte testaccio 30, 00153 rome, +39 06 574 3816, checchino-dal-1887.com


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My Weekend

Mazzega Glass Factory ‘Just a short ferry ride from central Venice, the island of Murano is a must-visit. The island is known for its glass and Mazzega is one of the area’s most respected galleries. Its

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 132

PHOTO: VeriTy HOgan

Known for its gondolas, romantic ambience and the spectacular Piazza San Marco, Venice is one of Italy’s most iconic destinations. SHOP’s city guide and lifestyle editor Verity Hogan spends a weekend uncovering another side to the city, exploring its independent boutiques and dining in some memorable locations

in-house artists Dino Rosin and Walter Furlan have created a diverse range of sculptures, mirrors, chandeliers and antique reproductions – thankfully, the gallery’s expert team is on hand to help you choose your favourite piece.’


PHOTO: VeriTy HOgan

S H O P | 89

La Piscina ‘I spent my last day in Venice exploring the quiet Dorsoduro district and was lucky enough to stumble upon La Piscina just as it opened for lunch. The

Serapian ‘Given Italy’s reputation for producing high-quality leather goods, I was keen to check out Venice’s leather craftsmanship for myself. Family frm Serapian uses the fnest leathers

globalblue.com

restaurant has one of the best locations in Venice and ofers a vast menu of Italian delicacies. Surprisingly, some of the simplest dishes are the best; I recommend the Gorgonzola and mushroom panini.’

and a team of talented Italian craftspeople to produce bags that are functional, hardwearing and fashionable. My favourite is the Gina, named in honour of the founder’s wife, which exudes discreet elegance with its classic shape.’


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Cesare Tofolo ‘As I was wandering the streets of Murano, Cesare Tofolo’s well-stocked window immediately caught my attention. The designer is one of the island’s most talented glassmakers. I love the way he blends traditional styles and a soothing colour palette with opulent touches and more modern shapes.’

Verity’s top tips for a weekend in Venice While a romantic gondola ride might be at the top of your to-do list, Venice’s ferry network is a cost-efective alternative that takes in all of the city’s sights, including the Canal Grande. Don’t battle the crowds queueing to see the Basilica on Piazza San Marco; head to the Museo Correr at the other end of the square, which ofers a standout collection of historic artworks displayed in stunning neoclassical rooms. Don’t be afraid to head out without a map; Venice is one of the best cities for aimless wandering and it’s often of the beaten track that you’ll fnd hidden gems. The quieter districts of Dorsoduro and Cannaregio are ideal places for exploration.

‘Tucked away on a quiet section of canal, Trattoria Sempione was one of my best culinary discoveries. The restaurant exudes charm with a warm, welcoming interior that perfectly refects its traditional menu – seafood is a particular speciality.’

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 132

PHOTOs: VeriTy HOgan

Trattoria Sempione



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Il Papiro

DIRECTORY

‘I’m something of a stationery enthusiast, so Il Papiro quickly became one of my favourite Venetian haunts. Hidden just moments away from the crowds of Piazza San Marco the store specialises in items made from beautifully hand-decorated paper with a vintage sensibility. Every item in store was created using ancient Tuscan techniques; the selection of bound diaries, journals, address books, photo albums and range of desk accessories would make ideal souvenirs – assuming you can bear to part with them.’

Mazzega Glass Factory, Fondamenta da Mula 147, 30141 Murano, +39 041 736888, mazzega.it * for map go to page 120 La Piscina, Fondamenta de le Zattere ai Gesuati, Dorsoduro 780, 30123 Venice, +39 041 520 6466, lacalcina.com

PHOTO: VERITY HOGAN

Serapian, Calle Larga XXII Marzo, San Marco 2423, 30124 Venice, +39 041 241 0055, serapian.com

VENICE ‘If you read a lot, nothing is as great as you’ve imagined. Venice is – Venice is better’ Fran Lebowitz

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Cesare Tofolo, Fondamenta dei Vetrai 37, 30141 Murano, +39 041 736460, tofolo.com * for map go to page 120 Trattoria Sempione, Ponte dei Barateri, San Marco 578, 30124 Venice, +39 041 522 6022, alsempione.com Il Papiro, Calle del Piovan, San Marco 2764, 30124 Venice, +39 041 522 3055, ilpapirofrenze.it



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Guide

ILLUSTRATION: LYNDON HAYES

Navigating an unfamiliar country is never easy. Global Blue ofers you the most comprehensive shopping maps, helping you fnd your way around Italy with useful hints and insider information about what to see, do and buy. For more detailed guides, check out globalblue.com/italy or pick up one of our bespoke shopping maps from your concierge.

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Rome Via del Babuino

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GALLERIA VITTORIA ● IN A MARGUTTA 102 ●

SO OR LC DE

● CARLUCCI ROY ROGERS ●

● AAA

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FRATELLI ROSSETTI RED VALENTINO HAUSMANN & CO IL GUFO MISS GRANT CREAM VHERNIER ARMANI JEANS

● SERAPIAN ● STONE ISLAND ● GENTE

● E&R DANON ● PRATESI ● VENEZIANI TROLLBEADS ● RED VALENTINO ● NUOVA ANTE PRIMA ●

V IA

● ● ● ● ●

GENTE FLOS PIAZZA SEMPIONE ICEBERG MIU MIU

● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

V IA A LI B E R PINKO T DIESEL ERMANNO SCERVINO CHANEL ETRO CIR MATTIOLI COSTUME NATIONAL

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SERRA ● CINOA ● MARIO OASI ● COEN ●

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LA NUVOLA ● RINALDI ● MARGUTTA FACTORY ● LA PALLINA ●

VIA

V IT

TO

R IA

● RICHARD DI CASTRO

V I A M A R G U T TA

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PROFUMERIA HB ●

● ANIMALIER E OLTRE ● COCOZZA ● CONSORTI ● MUCCI ● IL MARMORARO ● MASSONI ● IL MONDO DELL’ARTE ● PALAZZO MARGUTTA ● FLAIR

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KITON ● DECORARTE ● ANTICA MURRINA ● MAC ● HERZEL DE BACH ● ATOS LOMBARDINI ● TIFFANY & CO. ● I PINCO PALLINO ● HOGAN ●

● BRUNO MURATORI ● CAMPAIOLA ● MARGUTTA OTTICA

● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

VIA DEL BABUINO

BALDININI ● F.M. MEGNA ● ANTEPRIMA ● ASPESI ● TOY WATCH ● ANTONACCI ● EMPORIO ARMANI ● ANTIQUARIO ● GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN ● WA POLLONI ●

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GALLERIA D’ARTE BENUCCI ●

TI

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EI M O N

ARTEMIDE ●

V I A M A R G U T TA

VIA

IN ITÀ D

BONUCCELI ●

GROSSI MAURIZIO ●

● SANDRO FERRONE

EL LA TR

VIA

VI AL E D

GIOVANNI RASPINI ●

VIA DEL BABUINO

MARIO LUCCHESE ● MALIPARMI ● TOUCH AND GO ● FABRIZIO BULCKAEN ● TAD ● LEO PIZZO ●

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LELLI PEOCHI ●

OTTICA SPEZIA ● CESARI ● GENTE ●

Via Margutta

● 100% CAPRI ● DE GRISOGONO ● BOGGI ● CHOPARD VI A M A RGUT TA ● HERVÉ LÉGER ● DODO ● RIENZI ● COMPAGNIA ITALIANA ● VOGUE SHOP ● BARILLÀ BOUTIQUE ● TORY BURCH ● NOBEL ● LA FELTRINELLI ● MATASSI MANNI ● JO MALONE ● DE NICOLA ● D'AVOSSA GIOIELLI ● SAVE THE QUEEN!

● MONOGRAMMA ● MONIES V IA A

● ENIGMA L IB E

RT

ER A TO R

IM P TO US

TA

UG

UT

O

AA

RG

ZZ

MA

SHOP Recommendation

UIN

Featured In This Issue

Non-Global Blue Retailer

V IA A LI

AB

Global Blue Retailer

LB

IO RI IO DE ’F VI A M AR UMBERTO VISGA ● ANTIQUARIO ● NIA ● LAURA ZOFFOLI ● ZINGONE ● CAMPOMARZIO 70 ● FLEUR TEMPORARY

● LUNARIA ● NECK & NECK ● SCAPA OF SCOTLAND ● MORO & OGNISSANTI ● FALIERO SARTI ● DE CARLIS ● DAL CO ● ONLY SKIN VI A B ELSIA NA ● V VITTORIA ● GREGG ● BRT ROME

VIA DEL CORSO

● IL BACO DA SETA ● ONLY HEARTS ● ALFONSI GIOIELLI

P IA

VIA

DE

VIA VITTORIA

VIA

BARBARA GREGORI ● RIGADRITTO ●

VIA VITTORIA

IC I

ALESSANDRELLI ●

TEF

LESLEY ●

PON

NIA & CO ●

DEL

ORTIGIA ● THÈ VERDE ● TEA ROSE ● SAMSONITE ● BERTOLETTI ● LADIA ● DE CARLIS BORBONESE ● ROBERTO COIN ●

V IA

ROBERTO BIAGINI ● JODIEL ● TIFERET ●

E

Via Vittoria

B ER T


U IN

O

MONCLER ● PRADA DONNA ● PRADA UOMO ● DAMIANI ● CARTIER ● A. TESTONI ●

GIORGIO ARMANI ● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO ● MONTBLANC ● ELEUTERI ● JIMMY CHOO ● HERMÈS ●

● GUCCI

● DIOR

● BULGARI

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO ● BULGARI ● BATTISTONI ● BURBERRY ● ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA ● CHURCH’S ● FURLA ●

● ANGELETTI

● MAX MARA

● LOUIS VUITTON ● VALENTINO

● BUCCELLATI

VIA MA RIO DE’

● CELINE ● BRIONI ● CASTELLI P.101 ● SWATCH ● LORO PIANA ● STUART WEITZMAN ● HAUSMANN & CO

VIA BOCCA DI L EONE

BAB

WP STORE ●

FRETTE ● ESCADA ●

LORIBLU ●

DI CASTRO ●

DEL

MENICHINI ●

V IA

VIA BEL SIA NA

LEO NE

SPIMAR ●

VIA BOC CA DI VASARI ● RUE DE LA CROIX ● LA COCQUETTERIE ● VERTECCHI ●

● PELLETIERIA ● FIORENTINO ● ABITART

V IA BELSIANA

STOP HERE ●

VIA DELLE CARROZZE

● SINERGY ● GOODQUEEN ● ANDREUCCI ● RUE DE LA CROIX ● COSE

● SCOOTERPLUS XANDRINE ● ● MARVILLE MODA UOMO ● ● MALIA MALLONI ● ● CAESAR OR I IO DE ’ FI VI A M AR ● FIORENTINO POMPI ● ●B FIORENTINO ● ● MIRA BEAUTY POINT ● LUXURY ● VENCHI

Piazza Di Spagna ● FLIRT ● CLIO

● BALLY

● ALBERTA FERRETTI ● MIU MIU

● OMEGA

● SWAROVSKI

FIO RI

VIA BEL SIA NA

VI A VIT TO R IA HARRISON ● FLORENCE OF MOON ● CAMICISSIMA ● GREISY ● MR F VIVIANTI ● BOTTOM DOWN ● MADA ●

VILEBREQUIN ●

IL BISONTE ●

RENÉ CAOVILLA ●

● EDDY MONETTI

BRUNELLO ● CUCINELLI

BALENCIAGA ● FIO RI VIA MA RIO DE’ GUCCI ● MORRIS ● ● MONNA LISA LORENZO ROBERTO CARMIGNANI ● ● CAVALLI SPORTMAX ● ● BRIGHENTI STELLA MCCARTNEY ● ● IRO FRATELLI ● BLUMARINE ROSSETTI ● ● LES COPAINS MARINA RINALDI ● VIA BO CC A DI LEO NE

TARTUFI & FRIENDS ●

COLOMBO ●

● FAUSTO PUGLISI

● ZENDRINI

VIA BEL SIA NA

VIA DEL COR SO

PEUTEREY ● NIKI NIKA ●

VIA FRAT TINA

DAN ●

TOD’S ● DOLCE & GABBANA ● TRUSSARDI ● MARCELLO ● FRANCESCO ROGANI ● MAX & CO ●

VIA BORGOGNONA

Piazza Mignanelli

ROSSATI ●

Piazza Di Spagna

VIA CON DOT TI

BOTTEGA QUATTRO ● OTTICA CALÒ ●

VIA DELLA CROCE

VIA DEL CORSO

globalblue.com

VIA FRAT TINA

ALEXANDER ●

BRUNO ● CALO ● IT STYLE PIER ● CARANTI

VIA FR AT TIN

A

● ACQUA DI PARMA ● LOEWE ● IWC SEPHORA ● ALBERTO P.48 ● CARPISA GUARDIANI ● ● NESPRESSO SERMONETA GLOVES ● ● BLUNAUTA DI CORI ●

VIA BORGOGNONA

● FURLA

● LONGCHAMP ● SANTONI ● MISSONI

P.59 EFRATI ●

● DIOR ● CAMPER

VIA CON DOT TI

VIA CON DOT TI

● VERSACE

SERGIO ROSSI ● PURA LOPEZ ● DOLCE & GABBANA ●

Piazza Di Spagna CASADEI ● EMILIO PUCCI ●

ROZ ZE

VIA DEL LE CAR

CE

VIA DEL LA CRO

VIA DEL CO R SO

S H O P | 97

Via della Croce

Via dei Condotti & Piazza di Spagna

Via Borgognona


98 | G U I D E

Via Belsiana & Via Mario de’ Fiori VIA VIT TOR IA BABY PRATESI ●

● LA MERCERIA ● WORLD ORIGINAL WATCH

BARTON’S ●

● BARTON’S

ORAFO ●

A

VIA DEL LA CRO

● COSE ● TIZIANA MODIANO

● GIOIELLI DI COCO'

VIA DEL LE CAR ● CHOSES ● GIOIELLERIA MARONI

VIA CON DOT TI

● BOZART

● I CARTAI ● IL LACCIO ● FLORENCE MOON ● C.U.C.I.N.A. ● WOLFORD ● MANUELE ZOO ● MARTINO MIDALI

PANCRISIA ● LAURA BIAGIOTTI ●

Piazza Di Spagna

● BL GIOIELLI ● BRACCIALINI ● CAMEO CENTER

VIA BORGOGNONA

’FIO RI

BADURA ●

● DOMUS CALZATURE ● FGF STORE

● ILEANA DELLA CORTE

IA MA RIO DE

● GHERARDINI

A

VIA DEL COR SO

● MOSTROLEO ● TRONCONI

ROZ ZE

VIA B OCCA DI LEONE

VIA BE LSI AN

MALO ● BEAUTY POINT ●

CE

● UNDUETRE

● GREMESE

MARCHIONNI GIOIELLI ● VINTAGE ● ALBERTA FERRETTI ● NIKI NIKA ●

● ZAPPIA

NIA OUTLET ●

’FIO RI

VIA DEL COR SO

● LUIGI BORRELLI

● CORNER ● MONT BLANC ● JAJA CAMICERIA

● FABRIS

BORGHINI ● BELSIANA 91 ● BORGHINI ●

● MALO ACCESSORI

VIA MA RIO DE

CASTIELLO ●

VIA BE LSI AN

VERTECCHI ● L'ANELLERIA ●

● GIORGIA R

● LA VIE VOLEUSE

HENRY BEGUELIN ●

Piazza Mignanelli

IMPERATORE DI CAPRI ●

RUCOLINE ● HAVAIANAS ● ● CHIARA BLU VIA FR AT TINA

MATTIOLO ●

VIA FRAT TINA WATCH POINT ● MADE IN ITALY ●

Via Frattina VIA CON DOTTI

● SWAROVSKI ● ANGELO DI NEPI ● GEOX ● CLASS ● NERO GIARDINI ● BRIGHENTI ● ELENA MIRÒ ● DOPPELGANGER ● UNO DE 50 ● CAGE ● ELISABETTA FRANCHI

● PROFUMERIA CASTELLI ● CAMICISSIMA ● GALASSIA ● SISTE’S ● ROBERTO BOTTICELLI ● CAMPANILE ● MARTINI ● MAX MARA ● GRACE K ● ARMANI JUNIOR ● STEFANEL ● WINDSOR ● PENNY BLACK ● FALCONERI ● OPTISSIMO ● PAL ZILERI ● TRU TRUSSARDI ● PATRIZIA PEPE ● MORESCHI ● FREDDY ● ARGENTARIUS ● CASTELLI ● REBECCA ● MANILA GRACE ● EFRATI ● CALZEDONIA ● FLAVIO CASTELLANI ● KIEHL’S

VIA FRAT TINA

PIQUARDO ● VIVIANTI ● BOSS STORE ● MINOU ●

I VIA MAR IO D E ’ FIOR PERSONA ● FORNARI E FORNARI ● P.54 MARELLA ● ANDREA FABIANI ● A.G. SPALDING & BROS ● BURCHI E DE SANCTIS ● GALLO ● FAUSTO SANTINI ● CESARE PACIOTTI ● VIA BO CC A DI LEONE

ALVIERO MARTINI ● FREYWILLE ● ASH ● PURE ● BRANDY & MELVILLE ● MICARELLI ● GIUDI ● CHOPIN ● PINKO ● MATI ● FABIO D ● GUESS ●

VIA BEL SIA NA

● GENTE V I A D EL GAM B ERO ● PATRIZIA ● RUBY ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● LUCIANO PADOVAN ● LUISA VENIER ● YOU PARFUM.COM ● COMANDINI

VIA DEL COR SO

CARLO PAZOLINI ● LIST ● WOLFORD ● L'OCCITANE ● BRUNO MAGLI ● PANDORA ● DANIELLE ● LUISA SPAGNOLI ●

VIA F RATT INA

VIA BORGOGNONA

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Featured In This Issue

Non-Global Blue Retailer

SHOP Recommendation

Piazza Mignanelli


S H O P | 99

GaLaSSIa Demonstrating the diverse inspirations and innovations that infuence the fashion industry, the selection on ofer at Galassia celebrates fashion in all its forms. The multi-brand boutique plays host to an eclectic collection made up of the latest oferings by a number of international

Via Dei Due Macelli ● CHIURATO MICHELE

MANDARINA DUCK ●

● HOSS INTROPIA

ILLY SHOP ●

● PINEIDER

59/A ●

● TAMMARO

ARCHIMEDE SEGUSO ●

● ULISSE GALLERY

CARTELLO D’AURIA ●

VI A DE I

RENARD ●

RIA NA

RED & BLUE ●

VIA GR EGO

● EDITH B

METTIMI GIÙ ●

● JACKSON

DU E M AC

GABRIEL STORE ●

● OTTICA BILECI

EL LI

BATA ●

VICTORY ● I-D ● ROSA FISH ●

● PINKO ● PELLETTERIA FLACCO ● EDISON ● RALPH ● VICTORY ● KAMINSKY ● LA BOTTEGA DI ELI

PC X TE ●

globalblue.com

● CARPISA

designers, set against a striking red wall. Expect to fnd pieces by Japan’s Yohji Yamamoto and Issey miyake, France’s Jean Paul Gaultier, Belgium’s ann Demeulemeester and the UK’s Gareth Pugh within the range. Galassia, via Frattina 20-21, 00187 rome, +39 06 679 7896, galassiaroma.com

OmaI NOw Or NEvEr Omai Now or Never creates trend-setting pieces from the latest materials; its meticulous designers produce clothing that is feminine, elegant and never excessive. Omai Now or Never, via del Corso 244, 00186 rome, +39 06 679 4602, omainowornever.com



G U I D E | 101

Via del Corso (North)

Castelli ● BORSALINO ● ZEISS HOUSE

Piazza Del Popolo

Al Bolognese

DI R VIA

BERNABEI ● KINZLY ● LU ● RE MISHELLE ● DA PIETRO ● DAVID HAMILTON ● KELOKURA ●

VIA DEL CORSO

IPE

T TA

● ALFIERI

AB UIN O

RED FELTRINELLI ● NUVOLARI ● OTTICA SOLE ●

● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

BOTTEGA VERDE ANTHEA DOMINIQUE LUSH 7 CAMICIE REFRIGIWEAR MURPHY & NYE FULLSTYLE VIA LAURINA GAZZELLE MILLEFIORI DIVA BERNABEI TATIÉ SUBDUED TRIUMPH FOOT LOCKER PULL LOVE MARCO VIA DI GESU E MARIA

LB

IO

DESIGUAL ●

● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

DE

H&M ●

VIA

VA N TA G G

VIA DEL CORSO

DEL

● WOW! ● ORIGINAL MARINES

MR BOOTS ●

V IA

● STEFANO RICCI

● LAB SHOES

FLORENCE ● N TO N IO C A N O VA

TIMBERLAND ● PIAZZA ITALIA ● MAC ● CASUCCIO & SCALERA ● SEPHORA ●

VIA DEL CORSO

V IA A

LEVI’S ●

D EI

ADIDAS ● PON TEF IC I REDFORD ●

VIA DEL CORSO

NIKE ● V IA

GAP ●

Largo Dei Lombardi

GEOX ● CAMPER ● BRANDY & MELVILLE ●

VIA DEL CORSO

ISHOP ●

● SISLEY ● VANS V I A D I S A N G I ACO M O ● ELISABETTA FRANCHI ● PERLA ● SOLARIS ● GAUDÌ VIA DEI GR ECI ● LACOSTE ● CATENELLA ● PEPE JEANS ● CAMICIA CAFFE ● MANILA GRACE ● KEY ● LU ● BERNABEI ● SIMONA ● L’OCCITANE ● DA VINCI ● FRANCESCHINI VIA VITTORIA ● TIM ● MONDO WIND ● MARELLA ● INTIMISSIMI ● EFFETTI ● MARC O’POLO ● ET MOI ● ATHLETES WORLD ● LA 3 STORE ● NAU ● CHOPIN ● DAVID SADDLER

Castelli is dedicated to beauty, ofering a diverse range that includes perfumes, cosmetics and exquisite jewellery options. Rome’s best-groomed citizens have long frequented the boutique, although even regular visitors will beneft from the experienced members of staf on hand to guide them through the eclectic product range and ofer expert advice. a number of the world’s most prestigious beauty brands are available in-store; look out for the latest items by Hermès, tom Ford, Prada and sisley among the selection. Castelli, Via dei Condotti 22, 00187 Rome, +39 06 679 0998, profumeriecastelli.com * for map go to page 97

VIA DELLA CROCE

● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

Global Blue Retailer

CALZEDONIA DECCIO CARLO FORNARINA GOLDEN POINT ASOLE E BOTTONI TALLY WEIJL DIESEL GUESS VIA DELLE CARROZZE

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Restaurant


102 | G U I D E

Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina

A RES L'I M P DEL V IA

VIA DEL LA

VIT E

AR R A VIC O LO S CI ● OMAI NOW OR NEVER

V IA D

EL L' U

M ILTÀ P.99 VI A DI SAN MARCE LLO

VIA SS. AP OSTO LI

● LA GARDENIA ● SMASH LAB ● BLTD ● SAXON’S

ZIO

AR

OM

MP CA

● HAMMERSMITH

● OUTLET SCHEGGE ●

VICOLO D EL PIOM B O ● TATIE ● TEBE ● LEVIATAN ● SALOMÈ ● LE GROUP ● PERONI ● ALCOTT ● CLASS ● RIENZI

STEFANEL ●

VIA D EL P L EBIS CITO

VI A CE SA R E B ATT

Piazza Venezia

Global Blue Retailer

Featured In This Issue

Non-Global Blue Retailer

SHOP Recommendation

ISTI

PIAZZA DEI SANTISSIMI APOSTOLI

VIA M

TI A RCO MI N G H E T

VI A L ATA

VIA DEL CORSO

ASC I H

VIA FRATTINA

● ETY ● OTTICA CANOVAI

AU DIA

VIA DEL CORSO

VIA SA N CL

CELIO ● GUTTERIDGE ● MIRIADE ● YAMAMAY ●

VIA DEL CORSO

RG A M

ONA

VIA DEL CAR AVIT A

VICOLO DOR IA

VI A B E

● BREIL

VIA DEL CORSO

● PASQUALE BRUNI

● CARSHOE

● BOTTEGA VENETA

VIA DEL CORSO

VIA DI SA N TA MAR IA IN VIA MASSIMO DUTTI ● ● NANNINI FLORSHEIM ● PINKO ● ● OYSHO CALVIN KLEIN JEANS ● ● BRACCIALINI ● C’ART TECH IT EASY ● BOGGI ● ● IMAGINARIUM ● OTTICA F. LA BARBERA TRU TRUSSARDI ● ● GUESS BY MARCIANO COCCINELLE ● ● EDONE’ ● THE BRIDGE BE TWEEN ● PIQUADRO ● LA RINASCENTE ● ● BOGGI ● ZARA LA FELTRINELLI ●

VIA DEL CORSO

VATURI ● OTHERS ● TIBER ● BARONE ●

VI A B ORG OGN

Via del Corso (South)

● ZARA

Galleria Alberto Sordi

PI ET RA OBJ ●

ER TIT E

Piazza di San Silvestro

SABABA ●

MOOD ● ROBERTO ANTICOLI ● GARDINO ● FELLINI ●

● SAINT LAURENT

VIA DEL L E CO NV

Piazza del Parlamento

TIM ● X CORSI ● FIFTY FIFTY ●

Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina

T TI

RO

● DISNEY ● GRILLI VIT E VIA DEL LA ● HOUR PASSION ● DAVID MAYER NAMAN ● CALZEDONIA ● MANGO ● SWATCH ● LE GROUPE ● STELLA Z ● ENERGIE / MISS SIXTY

VIA D EL PA RLAMENTO FRETTE ●

PRIMA DONNA ●

● BONPOINT ● SPADA

GA M BE

A VIA IN LU C I N INTIMISSIMI ●

● LUCCHESI ● TEZENIS ● G.D.V. ● MARC O’POLO ● COLONNA ● LUISA SPAGNOLI VIA FRATTINA ● ESOTICA ● YAMAMAY ● OTTICA EFRATI ● ALDO ● JAKED

VIA DEL

VIA DEL CORSO

VODAFONE ● 7 CAMICIE ● SISLEY ● HAMILTON ● CORNER ● CARPISA ● GREISY ● HAUSMANN & CO ● ACCESSORIZE ● PUMA ●

VI A DI

I

VIA BELSIANA

Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina

Piazza Colonna

N D O TT

POMELLATO ●

VI A CO

● SWAROVSKI ● YAMAMAY ● FALCONERI ● STROILI ORO ● ASOLE E BOTTONI ● NARA CAMICIE ● KIKO NON A VI A BOR GOG

OND O

LOUIS VUITTON ●

● LIU JO

VIA C

BURBERRY ●

P.46

CRUCIANI E BELLA ●

FENDI ●

GIOIELLERIA CRISTIANA ●

LLI

OBOR ●

CE

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN ● FRANK LO ●

MA

VIA DEL CORSO

TO

VIA BELSIANA

● TWIN-SET ● ZARA ● RIENZI

H&M ●

VIA

VIA

Via del Corso (Central)



104 | G U I D E

GALLERIA ALBERTO SORDI

from some of Italy’s most popular names. Fashion by Boggi, Pinko, Coccinelle and Massimo Dutti is available alongside luxury beauty brands, plus cafés for when you need a break. Galleria Alberto Sordi, Piazza Colonna, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6919 0769, galleriaalbertosordi.it

One of Via del Corso’s most impressive buildings, and one of the world’s fnest shopping arcades, Galleria Alberto Sordi plays host to a number of stores

ELL

ED E

DRE

AD

LA ME RC

'A N NT SA

V I A D E L P OZ Z E T

A

TO

DI CORI ●

FUSARO ● VODAFONE ● B&H ● ARISTOCRAT ● THE GALLERY ● LE GROUP ● ALTARIVA ●

Piazza di San Claudio

VI

LUISA SPAGNOLI ● PELLICCE CANALI ● ● DE LILLO BEAUTY POINT ●

● GERARD

● G-STA R

LL A PA

OREGON ● SCIENTIFIC

N ET TE

● STONEFLY MARLBORO ● CLASSICS

● MUJI

● IL PANTALONE MULIERE ● PROFUMERIE ● SAXOH’S

● CAMPO MARZIO

RI A

Galleria Alberto Sordi

VI A DE

VI A DEL TRITONE

LARGO CHIGI

● FASHION SHOES

● SETTIMIO MIELI

VIA DEL CORSO

● UNO PIÚ

● + VISTA ● TRIS GEMME E ● DIAMANTI

IO I SA N CL AU D

DI

Piazza di San Silvestro

MR MUZIO ● TRITONE FURS ●

DE LILLO ●

● MERCEDES BENZ ● BRIC’S ● BEDETTI GERARD ●

NERO ● GIARDINI TECH IT EASY ● MARCHETTI PERLA ● SUPERDRY ● ● CARHARTT CALZEDONIA ●

THE NORTH ● FACE VISION OPTIKA ●

VIA DEL CORSO

3 STORE ● TIMBERLAND ●

VIA DE

VIA D EL

E

Via del Tritone, Piazza di San Silvestro, Via di San Claudio & Via delle Convertite

Via del Tritone ST

TI VI ER IS

SI ST

DE

A

A

VI

● VALLI

A

FO

IN

RA

● PINOCCHIO

SANDRO ● FERRONE

LT

VI

A

DE

● R.BAZZOCCHI CASUCCIO & ● SCALERA

VIA RO

● OVS INDUSTRY

V I A D E G L I AV I G N O N E SI

BLUE SAND ● CLIÒ ●

IN

CC HE L

SI

BENETTON ●

GREISY ● STARGAME ● DELSEY ● GATTEGNA ●

CLARKS ●

SOUVENIR SHOP ● JANNY ●

CLASS ●

LI EL AC E M JOELA ●

MICHAEL F ● SEPHORA ●

I DU

BRAND ● MISS ROBERTA ● ESTHER ●

DE

VI A ZU

A

LI

VI

VIA

VIA DEL TR ITO NE

VI A DEL TRITONE

BARBERINI FONTANA DI TREVI Piazza Barberini

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Shopping Centre/Mall

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Metro Station

SHOP Recommendation




G U I D E | 107

Milan Corso Venezia CAMPAGNA ● CULTI ● MOSCA ●

GaGà Milano

COR SO VEN EZIA

MARVILLE ● PARAH ● RENCO ● NANDO MUZI ● AEROSOLES ● VIVIENNE WESTWOOD ● LIVIANI ● LA CALZA ● OTTICA ● MY STYLE BAGS ● MADINA ●

V IA

LINDARICO ●

SEN

AT O

MALLONI ●

V IA

DEL

Gagà Milano’s sleek fagship is in marked contrast to its vibrant, eclectic watches, which blend classic elegance with original design. Gagà Milano, Corso Venezia 8, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3675 0377, gagamilano.com

● MILA SCHÖN ● LIGHT TIME

● E’DE PADOVA ● STONE ISLAND

LUCIANO PADOVAN ●

LA S

P IG

CO R SO V E N E

A ● WOLFORD ● WHO’S WHO ● GIANNA MELIANI DOLCE & GABBANA ● ● GAGÀ MILANO DOLCE & GABBANA ● NAVIGARE BARBIERE ● FLAVIO CASTELLANI ● ● MEC & GREGORY’S BURBERRY ● ● NOMINATION NERO GIARDINI ● ● EMPRESA NERO GIARDINI JUNIOR ● ● ULTIMA EDIZIONE HENRY COTTON’S ● DOLCE & GABBANA ● ● CHRISTOFLE COS ● ARMANI COLLEZIONI ● ● ALBERTO GUARDIANI CLAUDIO CALESTANI ● GRIMOLDI ● ● PAOLO TONALI PINKO ● ● RED VALENTINO PRADA ● ● MCS V IA BRACCIALINI ● B AGU T TA ● M MISSONI P ZERO ● ZARA HOME ●

Z IA

SAN BABILA Piazza San Babila

Piazza San Babila & Corso Matteotti VIA

VEN EZI A

NFORTE CORSO MO

● SALMOIRAGHI VIGANÒ ● MORESCHI ● FLORSHEIM ● BROSWAY ● EDDY MONETTI ● BOGGI ● MILANO OFFICIAL STORE BALDININI ● TREND ● BAGATT ● EDDY MONETTI ● GUESS

IITTALA ●

N E T LY P IO N ● V IT S U P U ●S

’O ALL

RTO

● ESCADA ● DIESEL P.48 ● JUST CAVALLI

TRO

● TOMBOLINI

PIE SAN

Piazza San Carlo

S●

E ON LE PO NA

VIA

● UNIFOR ● RODO ● MORONI GOMMA

● BORBONESE

● FINART

● LO SCARABEO D’ORO

SAN BABILA

FLO

TE ON M

COR SO

A TT

BOSS STORE ● VITTORIO MARCHESI ●

GU BA

VIA DODO ● FABBRICA PELLETTERIE MILANO ●

Sant’ambroeus Bar

MAZZOLARI ● TIMBERLAND ● SPALLANZANI ● ALDO BRUÈ ● HARMONT & BLAINE ●

ATOS LOMBARDINI ●

CANALI ●

BOTTARELLI CARTOLERIA ● FRANKIE MORELLO ● PIKENZ ● SPAZIO FORNASETTI ● JECKERSON ● GRAVATI ● ALVIERO MARTINI ●

CORSO MATTEO TTI

P.40

VIA BORGOGNA

Global Blue Retailer

Featured In This Issue

Shopping Centre/Mall

Non-Global Blue Retailer

SHOP Recommendation

Café


108 | G U I D E

CHIMENTO Adriano Chimento founded his eponymous label in 1964 and the commitment shown by subsequent generations of his family has allowed it to become one of Italy’s most prestigious jewellery companies. The collection features pieces that are both classic and creative, crafted from the fnest materials to ensure quality. A number of the items feature precious gemstones, while a

diverse range of tastes is catered for with collections named Design, Tradition, Classic and Trendy to choose between. Chimento, Via della Spiga 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7601 8398, chimento.it

Via Montenapoleone & Via della Spiga Piazza Croce Rossa MONTENAPOLEONE

VILEBREQUIN ● CASTELLO D’ORO ● BYBLOS ● LANIFICIO COLOMBO ● PIQUADRO ● FRETTE ● DE NICOLA ● HITCH - HIKER ● RUCOLINE ● I DE SI GN

NI A R M AN Z O N I 3 1 NI ● MA A N ZO

V IA M

VIA MONTENAPOL EON E

A.TESTONI ● ITALIA INDEPENDENT ● BREGUET ● FABI ● BALDININI ● GIADA ●

ASPESI ● VERSACE ● VENINI ● HENRY BEGUELIN ● LORENZI ●

VIA VERRI

Cova

TIFFAN Y & CO. ● BELSTAFF ● FRANCK MULLER GENEVE ● RIVOLTA DAL 1883 MI L ANO ● FAY ●

POL L I NI ● MIU MIU ●

● PRADA

VIA SANT’ANDREA

SCAVIA ● ● CHOPAR D P.22 COLOMBO VIA ● PRADA WOMAN ● MICHAE L KORS DELLA SPIGA ● GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI GIÒ MORETTI BABY ● ● DESIGN ● PASQUA LE BRUNI MALO ● ● FEDELI RED AND BLUE MONCLER ● ● PEUTER EY ● BALLY BRUNELLO CUCINELLI ● ● LONGCH AMP GHERARDINI ● ● SABBADINI ROMEO SANTAMARIA ● ● GIÒ MORETT I ● ROBERTO CAVALLI KURT GEIGER ● ● CAMPER CAR SHOE ● BUSATTI GIOIELLI DI ● DOLCE & GABBAN A ● SANTONI VIA DELLA SPIGA ● ● PRADA MEN’S FASHION CHIMENTO ● FALCONERI ● ● AUDEMARS PIGUET CROMIA ● A ● RALPH LAUREN HERNO ● E ZI VEN ● GIORGIO ARMANI SO CO R ● LOUIS VUITTON ● BULGARI

VI A DEL L A SPIG A

VIA MONTENAPO L EO NE

LARUSMIANI ● GUCCI ● ETRO ● NARA CAMICIE ● BOTTEGA VENETA ● SUTOR MANTELLASSI ● VILLA MEISSEN ● FENDI ● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO ● LA PERLA ● MONCLER ● OFFICINE PANERAI ● SIMONETTA RAVIZZA BY ANNABELLA ● JAEGER LE-COULTRE ● PEDERZANI ● FRATELLI ROSSETTI ●

● CARTIER ● PAUL & SHARK ● DIOR ● PUCCI P.42 ● HERMÈS ● DIOR ● BURBERRY ● ICEBERG ● KID SPACE ● ALBA ELOISA ● DAMIANI

VI A D EL LA SPIG A

LI LU O M AG ● BR UN EL IA NI ● CO RNO ● VE RT UA ● ● PI NK GN DO ZEER ● GE OX ● IL RE X TT EG VI ● RO LEEP PE ZA NO ER M EN ● GI US ES SO LA NC ● FE RG OS P M ON TB V IA BO ● GR IF AN A ● PI RO LO ● AM O RO SS I E FE RR AG SE RG IO LVAT OR SA ● ● TOY WATCH CELINE ● NT IN O ● VA LE ANGELO FUSCO ● VIA SANTO SPIRIT O OMEGA ● LANVIN ● TOSCA BLU ● ● ALBERTA FERRETTI HOGAN ● PHILLIPP PLEIN ● MASSIMO SFORZA ● ● DRUMHOR K RIZIA ● GANDINI TESSUTI ● ● LA MURRINA MARIO BUCCELLATI ● PAOLO PECORA ● ANGELO GALASSO ● ● MARIANO RUBINACCI ● CUSI GIOIELLIERI VIA GESÙ

R IB ● LO

● PAKERSON ● MONNA LISA ● PRETTY BALLERINAS ● MARISA ● ROCCO BAROCCO ● VIRGINIA PREO ● MARNI ● BLUGIRL BLUMARINE ● MISS BLUMARINE ● BANG & OLUFSEN MAISON MARTIN ● MARGIELA ● SERMONETA GLOVES ● PORSCHE DESIGN ● FABIANA FILIPPI ● I PINCO PALLINO ● SERAPIAN ● PORSCHE DESIGN ● ALAN JOURNO ● MEGA FASHION ● NILU FAR ● BRUNELLO CUCINELLI ● Nº 30 ● CLAUDIA PAVIGNANO ● BLUMARINE ● MOSCHINO ● DOLCE & GABBANA ● TOD’S ● SPORTMAX

Global Blue Retailer

Metro Station

Featured In This Issue

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Cafè

SHOP Recommendation



110 | G U I D E

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, Piazza del Duomo & Via Torino

US RD CO

A

AR

VI

AD

I

ER TA M

AN AS VI OV

S

IN

ZA DU

RA

DUOMO Piazza Del Duomo

ST RY ● OY ● ● S H ● LUIGI VERGA IN RS O TT ● TI H E M M KA IQ IS AR SW GA ● M UE ● S CA IL EE VE BIB M ● TR D ● EN IMI LZ T RD A ● E EL N A W ED E A SA ● M P i a S S G I O M AY E ● O CA RA LM a r z z E S I E L AC ● ● CA NIA OI i a a S P O LO ● GE MP RA ER MIC Be a R ● ● GH F O OX IE ltr nta T ● ● I ad EN OT C & e ● PU IP G VIG ER LO M GI CK LL IO AN A ● E E N & IEL Ò R M ● B CS GO O E LI ● K I LT A R ● ● R E ● VE GU HL E ● C A RG ● ’ S ES E ● K R S ● ● K IK PI LIO ● ● PI E Y O SA TA T AC M K B E LL EZ Y CE IE O● W ENI S N Y SE EI S SO RI ● M AM GU JL ● RI ZE E ● TO ● O A R A M ● T T C O AY A IC V●I A BA FN RE AC LL O

Piazza Pio XI UT

BO

BE

VI

A

TO

RI

NO

BO

A

SA

M

RI

N L' U

LIO

DEL

AU

VIA

N

VIA MAZZINI

VI

AUTOGRILL ●

SP

GA L LERIA VIT TORIO EM AN U ELE

A

CORSO VITTORIO EMA NUELE MONDADORI ● ANDRE' MAURICE ● BENETTON ●

VI

CURRADO ● GRIMOLDI ● RUGGERI ●

CORSO V ITTORIO EMANUELE

P.50

VIA MENGONI

TOD’S ● CORDUSIO ● PRADA DANTE SWAROVSKI ● ● RICORDI MEDIASTORE Piazza BERNASCONI ● Cordusio ● OXUS MERCEDES BENZ ● ISTITUTO POLIGRAFICO ● ● VIGANÓ P.46 STEFANEL ● NARA CAMICIE ● ● LIBRERIA BOCCA CADÉ ● ● MASSIMO DUTTI

IO

VIA S.PELLICO

AR

GH

● BORSALINO ● CENTENARI ● MEJANA ● PIUMELLI ● CHURCH’S ● NOLI ● BRIC’S ● GUCCI ● GIORGIO ARMANI ● LOUIS VUITTON

SARTORIA ROSSI ● CIELO 1914 ● ARCHENTI ●

GA L LERIA VIT TORIO EM ANUELE

VIA MENGONI

LUISA SPAGNOLI ● LEO PIZZO ● PRADA ●

I TA

TRUSSARDI SCALA ● COMUNE DI MILANO URBAN CENTRE ● RIZZOLI ● ANDREW’S TIES ●

ION

E

Global Blue Retailer

Featured In This Issue

Non-Global Blue Retailer

SHOP Recommendation

Metro Station


S H O P | 111

Corso Vittorio Emanuele

A RI

FOOTBALL TEAM Italy is home to one of Europe’s most popular football leagues, and the teams of Serie A are known to inspire devotion among their fans, both within Italy and further afeld. Milan’s Football Team stocks a wide range of jerseys and other footballing accessories relating to all of Italy’s top-fight clubs, as

globalblue.com

VI A DURINI

PA

E

RO

EL

EU

NU

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VI

MA

RS

RSO

IO E

CO

CO

R T TO

● H&M

● NARA CAMICIE ● LIBERO MILANO ● GUTTERIDGE

ROCCA ●

LA RINASCENTE ●

TEZENIS ●

O

SAN BABILA Piazza San Babila ● SISLEY

LL

● STROILI ORO

NE

MARIUCCIA ●

● NADINE

AG

● OYSHO ● LUISA SPAGNOLI KIKO ● ● ILLY SWATCH ● ● MILAN MEGA STORE GOBBI ● ● MICHAEL KORS ● PINKO MARILENA ● ● DISNEY MC KENZY ● ● LIU JO ● THE HIGHLINE ● FOOT LOCKER ZARA MEN ● ● GAP ZARA ● ● BANANA REPUBLIC CALZEDONIA ● ● MANGO PICA ● ● REPLAY BENETTON ● ● SEPHORA ● BERSHKA IS I S TO F O R ● MONDADORI MULTICENTER MAX MARA ● IA DE CR GALLER ● COIN EXCELSIOR MAX&CO ● ● VERGELIO A PENNYBLACK ● ● MOTIVI RI CA ● B HIP! I BLUES ● EC MARELLA ● AB VI MARINA RINALDI ●

A

CELIO ● VIA PATT LO ● ALCOTT PA O ● CARPISA SA N & OTHER STORIES ● VIA ● CARPISA ● FALCONERI JDC URBAN STORE ● ● INTIMISSIMI NARA CAMICIE ● ● SUPERDRY ● FOOTBALL TEAM SOLARIS ● FURLA ●

VI

Piazza San Carlo

MASSIMO DUTTI ● GEOX ●

CLARKS ●

well as some merchandise from more minor league teams. Visitors can personalise their shirts, either with their own name or with the details of their favourite player, while the selection of technical accessories, many of which are used by professional players, is sure to impress. Football Team, Piazza del Duomo 20, 20122 Milan, +39 02 8905 2922, footballteam.it


112 | G U I D E

EYE STYLE Eye Style stocks a diverse selection of luxurious eyewear by some of the country’s most prestigious designer labels. A range of styles is available to provide the perfect fnishing touch to any outft; options range from 1960s-inspired feline ficks in delicate tortoiseshell to bold black square frames with coloured lenses. Despite this variety, every pair refects the same high standard of craftsmanship for which Italy is known; choose between designer frames by la-

Via Pietro Verri, Piazza Meda & Via Sant’Andrea

bels including Tod’s, Diesel, Roberto Cavalli and Dsquared2. Eye Style, Via San Pietro all’Orto 17, 20123 Milan, +39 02 3968 0189, it.eyestyle.com

Via San Pietro all’Orto VI A M ON

VIA DELLA SPIGA

VIA SANT’ANDREA

VIA GESÙ

E

MASCHIO ●

EYE STYLE ●

COR SO MAT TEO TTI

● ABERCROMBIE ZEPTER ● INTERNATIONAL ● BROOKS BROTHERS

’OR ALL

VALLI ● ENZO MANTOVANI ●

SAMSONITE ● MAURO LEONE ●

● GUCCI

BOSE ● FOR PETS ONLY ●

● JIL SANDER ● LA MARTINA

RSO

VIT

TO

AB

EC CA RI

A

Non-Global Blue Retailer

CO

● MARCO ● PAM

E RIO

VI

Global Blue Retailer

● SANDRO FERRONE

POSTCARD ●

● ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

● DSQUARED2 AGENT PROVOCATEUR ● ● OXFORD TUMI ● TOM FORD ● ● LARIO 1898 LANIFICIO DI TOLLEGNO ● CANALI ● BALDININI ● ELEVENTY ● PUNTO OTTICO ● CAVI BY NICO - Piazza Meda RAVAZZOLO ● CASTELLANI ●

● PRONOVIAS

TO

CONTI CONFETTERIA ●

● VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

VI A PIETRO VERRI

TRO

VERSACE COLLECTION ●

VIA MONTENAPOLEONE

PISA ● BURBERRY ● ETRO PROFUMI ● CRUCIANI ● JOHN RICHMOND ● VIA BIG LI NESPRESSO ● JO MARIANI ● IL GUFO ●

● BAGUTTA

POMELLATO ●

P IE

● MIKI HOUSE

ON

CASADEI ●

LE

TA

● MISSONI

● ISAIA

SAN

VIA B AG U T

JIMMY CHOO ●

SA

A

PO

ERES ● GUIDO PASQUALI ●

A

RE

VIC MATIÉ ●

V IA

BORSALINO ●

I

CARLO ELEUTERI ● TRUSSARDI DAL 1911 ●

GL

AGNONA ● CHURCH’S ● ARMANI HOME ●

● JIL SANDER NAVY ● MOSCHINO ● SEBASTIAN ● COSTUME NATIONAL ● CHANEL ● IRIS ● STUART WEIZMANN ● BANNER ● CESARE PACIOTTI ● DORIANI

BI

BOTTEGA VENETA ●

A

MIU MIU ● ROGER VIVIER ●

VI

ND

NA

VI

● BERLUTI

TE

SAINT LAURENT ●

’A NT

SHOP Recommendation

MA

NU

EL

E



114 | G U I D E

DIECIDECIMI

selection of shoes and accessories. Many items are stocked at Diecidecimi before anywhere else, while the Red Outlet collection ofers visitors another chance to pick up the highlights of previous seasons. Diecidecimi, Corso Buenos Aires 36, 20124 Milan, +39 02 204 6782, diecidecimimoda.it

Diecidecimi stocks an impressive selection of designer labels in one suitably stylish space, including sought-after difusion lines such as Just Cavalli, Love Moschino, Red Valentino and M Missoni. Each brand is displayed in its own shop within the shop, with a complementary

Corso Buenos Aires

AN

FI

LO

CA

ST AL

PANDORA ●

IS

● CLARKS ● LIU JO ● DIECIDECIMI

● FURLA

EN

OS

DESIGUAL ● STROILI ORO ● SWAROVSKI ●

AI

RE

AT I

S

BRACCIALINI ●

AS

RO

IA

L’OCCITANE ● CALVIN KLEIN JEANS ●

RS

ZA

PA

LA

ZZ

● SHADAO ● ANTONY MORATO

Piazza Santa

Francesca Romana VERGELIO ● SISTE’S ● ● PIQUADRO GAMESTOP ● ● GUESS KIDS VI ● GUESS STRADIVARIUS ● AL FOSSIL● ER IANA ● EG ● AERONAUTICA MILITARE IN SOLARIS ● AG KIKO ● IO ● HILFIGER DENIM VA STEFANEL ● N ● MERREL

DI

I

EN

O

BU

DOUGLAS ● PERSONA ● ALTIERI ● SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ ●

ET

● F.LLI SOLENNE GIOIELLI

● MILANO HOUSE OF CASHMERE

EN

EZ

IA

Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

Piazza Guglielmo Oberdan

PORTA VENEZIA VI

AM

AR

SHOP Recommendation

C

L EL

OM

AL

PIG

HI

ZO

RT AV

EL

PO

EN

M

DI

OV

A

NI

RI

OS

AI

RE

IO

TO

VI

ST

IT

O

BA

EV

RS

AL

CO

VI

AP

AZ

UN

EC

S

VI

AL

ET

IC

CO

VI

AL

EL

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AF

BU

VI

Metro Station

NA



116 | G U I D E

Venice

Calle Larga XXII Marzo & Salizada San Moisè

DIOR ● RENÈ CAOVILLA ● A. CODOGNATO ● HERMÈS ●

● CHANEL ● TAG HEUER ● CHANEL ● LORO PIANA ● BRUNO MAGLI ● SISLEY

PRADA WOMEN ● VERSACE ● BOTTEGA VENETA ●

MARINA E SUSANNA SENT ● GRAFICA ANTICA ● MA.RE ● BIBLOS ● FRETTE ●

ANTICHITÀ CESANA ● POMELLATO ●

MONTBLANC ● CARLO ELEUTERI ●

CAL

ARE

TO

R T IR

I D OT

3 MA

EL R

SSO

LE D

C . D .1

CAL

ALL LE V

● GUCCI

● BURBERRY ● LA COUPOLE

CONTINI GALLERIA ● D'ARTE

I

RO

● BULGARI C C HI C A LL E P EDRO

● BLUMARINE

● TOD’S

SERMONETA ● JESURUM ●

C . D . T E AT

● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

ZER IA ● LOUIS VUITTON FREZ DAMIANI ● GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN ● FRATELLI ROSSETTI ● CARTIER ● BOTTEGA VENETA ● MIU MIU ● PRADA MEN ●

OMEGA ● GUETTA ●

OIS È

SAN M

S A LIZ A DA

VENETIA STUDIUM ● LA COUPOLE ●

La Coupole ofers its customers exclusive pieces from Italian and international designers. It was opened in 1976 by Tommaso and Giovanna D’Ambrosio, who have combined innovation

with luxury to create a boutique synonymous with efortless and on-trend elegance. La Coupole, Calle Larga XXII Marzo, San Marco 2366, 30124 Venice, +39 041 522 4243

LA COUPOLE

ZI

R OZ BA C.

SHOP Recommendation

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Global Blue Retailer

A R ZO

X II M

RGA X

LE L A

CAL

Campo S. Moise

KITON ●

GALLERIA DELL’ ASCENSIONE ●

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA ●


S H O P | 117

Piazza San Marco

E DE

IF

AB

BR

I

“79B” ●

CEN S IO

N

A SA

N MO

Piazzeta dei Leoncini

Piazza San Marco

RY LLE GA OW N ● W R DA O IO AN ● G S IR È M U R E IA ● D NEZ E V ● I D IN AN RL ● O S CO E ● V U LY A ●P

IS È

● CENEDESE ● TREVISAN ● IWC ● ROLEX ● TREVISAN R.S. ● OFFICINE PANERAI ● GALLERIA RAVAGNAN ● CHOPARD ● FREYWILLE ● G. PAGAN ● “55” ● VISCONTI ORLANDINI ● ARCADIA ● BOLDRIN ● ENNIO ● JAEGER-LECOULTRE ● “66” ● VIANELLO ● MARTINUZZI ● NARDI ● “71B”

L‘A S LE L A R G A D E

ZAD

PALESA GALLERY ● ARCHIMEDE SEGUSO ●

LL

OTTICA FOTOGRAFIA FERRUZZI ● “140” ● GALLERIA SAN MARCO ● GIOIELLERIA SAN MARCO ● VETRI D'ARTE ● 135 ● BONCOMPAGNI ● OLGA ASTA ● AD ● MISSIAGLIA ● MURANO VITRUM ● CAMILLA ● A. TREVISAN GIOIELLI ● TREVISAN ● VESCO E SAMBO ● OLIVETTI ● AM ● FOTORECORD ● ORTOLANI ● MODOLO ● A. ORTOLANI ● MARKUS ● HUGO BOSS ● DEGANI ●

CA CAL

SA LI

● PAULY ● VENINI ● LA COUPOLE ● ANTICA MURRINA VENEZIA

PAULY If you’re looking for elegant Murano glassware, Pauly unites tradition and art with high-end luxury. Its master glassmakers use established techniques to produce new pieces with a clas-

Featured In This Issue

● FABRIS ● TOKATZIAN ● ESTERIA ● IL CAMMEO ● BEVILACQUA ● BARBALICH

sic style or to reinterpret historic designs. Its range includes tableware, gifts and lights – including a selection of ornate chandeliers. Pauly, Piazza San Marco, San Marco 73, 30124 Venice, +39 041 523 5484, pauly.it


118 | G U I D E

MORELLATO Morellato combines diamonds, gold and precious stones with hardwearing steel to create exquisite jewellery that can resist daily wear and tear. Its styles are inspired by the Italian Renaissance, with ornate shapes and muted colour schemes. The elegant designs, and the quality of the workmanship, are sure to make its pieces reliable favourites of your jewellery collection.

Morellato, Merceria de l’Orologio, San Marco 298, 30124 Venice, +39 041 522 6791, morellato.com

RE IC NA A M RA BR PLA A N C A O CC Y ● TO MIC A ● VA E LI VE ● AP NE M NI ● TO IE ZI AL M AS TR A Ù SC A ● SI A ● M B B O BA L T I PA A L D D U L LY U ● M L I TT ● BE Z NI I RL ILE NI ● AN RI ● D ● ●

S. S A LV AD O OR X U STILES AT LL & BJOUX ● ME MATERIALMENTE PO RI ER O/ O N E C K TA VENEZIA ● D O OS D O LC L H FROLLO ● ● FA O O TAT C A D ’A ● F W UC ● S ● AL D O C A ● K I K OX O DR PI ● G E UA TE ● IQ LL ● P

TA G

L’O

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Mercerie di San Salvador, Capitello, San Zulian & dell’Orologio

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723 ● M E FABRIS RICAMI ● R C LA PARIGINA ● E R STEFANEL ● I E LUISA SEMENZATO ● S A LA PARIGINA ● N JB GUANTI ● Z U ASTOLFO ● L I A LIBER ● N R. TIOZZO ● ● MATTIUZZI LUISA SPAGNOLI ● ● 786 FERRARI ● ● BAMPA LONGCHAMP ● ● IL CORALLO ● PAGNACCO ● 236 ● SWAROVSKI L’OCCITANE ● 229 ● ● GIOIELLERIA GAMBINO REMINISCENCE ● ● GUCCI DOLCE & GABBANA ● ● VIVICI LE MURRINE VENEZIANE ● ● OTTICA VENEZIANA SA NS LA MASCHERA DEL GALEONE ● ● SOLARIS A LV LACOSTE ● AD ● CARGASACCHI OR PANDORA ● ● AD RECARLO ● ● VIVA GIANMARIA BUCCELLATI ● ● BATA ● MARINA RINALDI MANDARINA DUCK ● ● COCCINELLE POLLINI ● ● PELLETTERIA ● SPAZIO A Piazzeta ROVOLETTO ● ● MORELLATO dei Leoni OREFICERIA DELL’OROLOGIO ● ● CESARE PACIOTTI LL

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120 | G U I D E

LINEA MURANO ART Linea Murano Art is one of the most recognisable makers of artistic Murano glass. The company has also branched out, undertaking several successful collaborations with fne jewellery companies, including Korite International and Simone Todini, and incorporating diamonds in a range of especially luxurious designs. Since 2010, renowned artist Afro Celotto has overseen Linea’s creativity.

Linea Murano Art, Fondamenta Daniele Manin 1, 30141 Murano, +39 041 736845, lineamuranoart.com

Murano

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122 | G U I D E

Florence

Via de’ Tornabuoni, Via degli Strozzi & Via Porta Rossa BOTTEGA 04 ●

ERBORISTERIA INGLESE ●

LUISA SPAGNOLI ● BARDUCCI ● LA PERLA ● UGO POGGI ● TOY WATCH ● MANILA GRACE ● VIA DE' PESCIONI CARTIER ● BOTTEGA VENETA ●

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BONPOINT ●

VIA CALIMALA TWIN SET ● BORSALINO ●

BARONI ●

MICHELE NEGRI ●

BRANDY MELVILLE ●

VIA DE' SASSET TI ● FENDI ● LOUIS VUITTON

● PATRIZIA PEPE

● PAUL & SHARK

VIA PEL LICCERIA

FERRARI STORE ● FALCONERI ● DOLCE & GABBANA●

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SHOP Recommendation

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SERGIO ROSSI ● SALVATORE ● FERRAGAMO

MUSEO SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

● LORO PIANA (OPENING) ● ELEUTERI OLFATTORIO MUSEO ● DELLE CIPRIE ● DAMIANI ● CÉLINE ● PUCCI

MONTBLANC ● DIOR ● PRADA ● SAVE THE QUEEN! ● ARMANI JUNIOR ● DODO ● TIFFANY & CO. ●

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GUCCI ● ANNE FONTAINE ●

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BRIONI ●

Via della Vigna Nuova


PHOTO: LEONARDO SALVINI

S H O P | 123

RIMOWA Rimowa’s fagship store in Florence showcases the luxury luggage company’s cases in a suitably chic setting. The minimalist décor lets the cases take centre stage, with style and colour groups displayed together. As well as looking good,

Rimowa luggage also leads the feld in quality, design and innovation, meaning your case will stay in shape on even the most arduous of journeys. Rimowa, Via Porta Rossa 95R-97R, 50123 Florence, +39 055 238 2635, rimowa.de

ALPHA STUDIO Since frst opening in 1985, Alpha Studio has extended its exclusive knitwear line to encompass dynamic designs and complement the most innovative trends. The line takes inspiration from the worlds of art and literature, resulting in highly original pieces, while high quality is guaranteed throughout the range. The company’s longstanding collaboration with designer Massimo Rebecchi has now ended, but the brand is determined to build on his success

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and continue to lead the feld in fashion-forward knitwear. Alpha Studio, Via Porta Rossa 39R, 50123 Florence, +39 055 285715, francorossi.it


124 | G U I D E

ArmAndo poggi A family-owned company, now run by the third generation, Armando poggi provides a perfect platform for italy’s fnest examples of craftsmanship and artistry. The store is known for its commitment to quality, which is evident throughout its diverse collection. products on ofer include an exemplary range of italian ceramics, Buccellati silver and murano glass, as well as a selection of international piec-

Via Roma & Via Calimala

Via dei Calzaiuoli Piazza di San Giovanni

GEOX ● PIQUADRO ● TWIN SET ●

CALZAIUOLI 91 ● MAX & CO ●

VIA DEI TOSINGHI MIGONE ● CARPISA ● SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ ● DISNEY ● A. UGOLINI & FIGLI ●

PROFUMERIA ALINE ● VIA DEGLI SPEZIALI GOLDEN POINT ● FURLA ● SWAROVSKI ● LOMBARDI ● ATHLETIC WORD ● FALCONERI ●

VIA DEI CALZ A IU O LI

GOLF ● ZARA ●

● ZARA ● CLARKS VI A O R S A N M I C H E L E ● CORNELIANI ● MURPHY & NYE ● LIU JO VIA DEI LAMB ERTI ● DIESEL ● LIU JO

GREISY ●

VIA CALIMALA

VIA DEI CA LZAIUO LI

VIA CALIMALA

VIA PELLICCERIA

MORESCHI ● CALIMALA 31 ● GUYA ● ROY ROGERS ●

● BOSS STORE MYWALIT ● VIA DEGLI SPEZIALI ● LA RINASCENTE

INTIMISSIMI ●

VIA DEI CALZAIUOLI

VIA DEI TOSINGHI ● MIU MIU ● ROBERTO BIAGINI

MASSIMO DUTTI ●

Piazza della Repubblica

● GUCCI ● PINKO ● MICHELE NEGRI ● MISS SIXTY EREDI CHIARINI ● DONNA

Piazza del Duomo

ARMANDO POGGI ●

VIA ROMA

SISLEY ●

VI A ROMA

PRADA ● LE SILLA ● LUISA VIA ROMA ● STEFANEL ●

es, such as fgurines by Lladro and crystal by Lalique. Armando Poggi, Via dei Calzaiuoli 103r, 50122 Florence, +39 055 211719, apoggi.com

● ● ● ●

DERBY ENRICO VERITÀ TIM BATA VIA DELLE OCHE

● FREYWILLE ● FIRENZE PRATESI ● STROILI ORO ● MANETTI ● GERONICO ● R. MARRETTI ● KIKO ● TEZENIS ● YAMAMAY

VIA DEL CORSO ● CALZEDONIA ● PIUMELLI ● SOLO MADE IN ITALY ● PLAYLIFE ● COIN ● MOSSA ● STEFANEL

V I A D E I TAV O L I N I

VIA DEI LAMBERT I PUSATERI ● RENEO ● L’OCCITANE ● BEMPORAD ● VIA P O RTA ROSSA FARMACIA MOLTENI ● CORSANI ● ATESETA ● FOSSIL ●

● LEATHER FACTORY ● LUISA SPAGNOLI ● COCCINELLE ● NARA CAMICIE ● SOLARIS ● QUERCIOLI ● GUIDORENI VI A DELL A C O N DOT TA ● FURLA

● PUMA

V I A PO RTA ROSSA

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Piazza della Signoria


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UNIVERSO SPORT ● LEATHER FLORENCE ●

RASPINI ●

SWATCH ●

PROFUMERIA ALINE ●

GILARDINI ●

● MUSIC CENTER ● CASINI

SOUVENIR ● MURANO

● ● ● ●

PELUSO LE VANITÀ FOTO LOCCHI LUSH

V I A D E L P RO CO N S O LO

PELUSO ● ANDREA PALOMBINI ●

● ART STORE ● EMPORIO ITALIANO FIRENZE ● NANTE CORNICI ● ARSA ARREDI SACRI

● FUORI SKEMA ● FIORI DEL TEMPO ● GLAMOUR ● PAOLA P. ● RIKA BIJOUX ● PARAGON ● GALLERIA DEL CHIANTI ● SARAH PACINI ● M.A. SFILIO ● DAVID 2 ● PIERO PULITI ● FABRIANO VI A D EI CERCHI ● COIN ● BRASCHI ● MAURO GIULI ● MATUCCI ● CLARISSA BIGIOTTERIA

VIA CALIMALA

VI A D EI CALZ A IUO LI

ANTICA CUOIERIA ● DIXIE ● SUPER DRY ● AL VIOLA ● NERO GIARDINI ● YAMAMAY ● MONNALISA ●

GINGER ● QUINTESSENCE ● LEATHER FASHION ● CAFE' NOIR ●

● PIUMINI DANESI AVIREX ● FLORENCE’S VIA DEL CORSO ● ● SECRET ● KODAK FILM

PI A ZZ A DEL DU O M O

VIA ROMA

VIA ORSANMIC HELE

● FLAVIO PELLETTERIE ● LIBRERIA SAN PAOLO ● FLAVIO PELLETTERIE S. M. DEL FIORE ● LEATHER FACTORY

UOMO

LD

DE PRIMA DONNA ●

Non-Global Blue Retailer

VIA D ELLE OCHE

VIA DEI TOSINGHI

SHOP Recommendation

Global Blue Retailer

Piazza del Duomo

Piazza di San Giovanni

OFFICINE PANERAI ● FORNARINA ●

Gilardini, Via de’ Cerretani 8R, 50123 Florence, +39 055 212412, gilardinishoes.it Florence is famous for its footwear and one visit to Gilardini, a century-old shoe boutique, explains why. Luxury lies at the heart of its vast selection, with many pieces crafted from fne Florentine leather. Wooden shelves are flled with every style imaginable, from heeled knee-high boots to fat ballerina pumps, loafers and brogues, all of a universally high quality.

PIA Z Z

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Piazza della Repubblica

B ORG

126 | G U I D E

GILARDINI

Piazza del Duomo & Via del Corso

PATRIZIA PEPE ●


TAX FREE


128 | G U I D E

PARRI’S Giardano Parri opened his leather workshop in 1950; his store is now one of the fnest in Florence. A long-standing partnership with Bianchi e Nardi means the extensive range of bags, outerwear, purses, diaries and other small leather goods is made by only the best craftsmen using the fnest raw materials.

Parri’s, Via Guicciardini 18R, 50125 Florence, +39 055 282829, parris.it

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FRATELLI PICCINI Owned by the fourth generation of the Fratelli family and ofering 110 years of experience in the jewellery industry, Fratelli Piccini is known for impeccable customer service, while its three distinctive collections are guaranteed to have wide-ranging

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appeal. Choose between the Piccini One, featuring certifed one-of items; the FI 225 range, which blends striking design with refned precious stones; or the Boutique collection with its trend-led irreverent styles. Fratelli Piccini, Ponte Vecchio 23R, 50125 Florence, +39 055 294768, fratellipiccini.com


130 | G U I D E

Outlet: Fidenza Village Fidenza Village, Via San Michele Campagna, 43036 Fidenza, +39 0524 33551, fdenzavillage.com, chicoutletshopping.com Opening times Monday-Sunday: 10am-8pm

How To gET THERE By car Exit the A1 motorway at Fidenza/Salsomaggiore. Pass the tollbooth and Fidenza Village is 100 metres to your left.

PERFECT DAY 10am Carlo Pazolini’s footwear combines Italian craftsmanship with modern design.

12pm Enjoy an early lunch at Hostaria delle Terre Verdiane, which specialises in regional cuisine using the fnest local ingredients.

2pm

By train From Milan: Fidenza station is on the direct line into Milano Centrale with frequent services and a journey time of approximately one hour 20 minutes. By Shopping Express The Shopping Express luxury coach service runs from central Milan to Fidenza Village daily.

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Admire the elegance, creativity and quality demonstrated by Verri’s exclusive menswear collection.

6pm End your day at Piquadro’s boutique; its travel and business luggage is characterised by a blend of traditional Italian craftsmanship, innovation and technology.


SAVE UP TO

ALL YEAR

160 stores with international major brands as: ALBERTO GUARDIANI, BALDININI, BERETTA, BILLIONAIRE ITALIAN COUTURE, BOTTICELLI, BROOKS BROTHERS, CALVIN KLEIN JEANS, GANT, GUESS, HARMONT & BLAINE, HILFIGER DENIM, NIKE, PINKO, POLLINI, RICHARD GINORI, TIMBERLAND and many others!


132

When you shop the world, shop tax free Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts. So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

1. Shop Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form.

2. Claim When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your Tax Free Forms stamped before collecting your refund at one of our customer service desks.

Contact: taxfree@globalblue.com, +421 232 111 111 Spend a minimum of €154.94 and save up to 15.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some refund points an additional fxed fee per Tax Free Form is charged should you require an immediate refund in cash. 144 / 153

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Refund Locations

Milan Linate Airtport Gates Gates

i Milan Malpensa Airport

Check in Area 2nd Floor

To Gate

Area B Extra Schengen 1st Floor

sB

Area A Schengen 1st Floor

Key Partner refund point

Global Blue customer services

Landside

Customs stamp

Security control

Airside

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Refund Locations Rome Fiumicino Airport To Gate G

To Gate G-H

Gate H1

To Gate B-C-D

To Gate Area D

To Gate C

Security Control to Gate G

To Gate Area B

Terminal 3 Terminal 1

Terminal 5

Key Partner refund point

Global Blue customer services

Landside

Customs stamp

Security control

Airside

Refund location details: Milan Malpensa Airport Terminal 1, Departures, Check-In (second foor) Terminal 1, Area B Extra Schengen (frst foor) Terminal 2, International Departures, Forexchange Maccorp Milan Linate Airport Departures, Forexchange Maccorp Downtown Milan La Rinascente (sixth foor next to customer service), Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan Rome Fiumicino Airport Terminal 3, Departures, Gate H1 Terminal 5, Departures Downtown Rome Forexchange Maccorp, Via del Caravita 6, 00186 Rome Forexchange Maccorp Pantheon, globalblue.com

Piazza della Rotonda 68B, 00187 Rome Forexchange Maccorp Trevi, Via del Lavatore 88A, 00187 Rome Florence Peretola Airport Departures Downtown Florence Forexchange Maccorp, Via Por Santa Maria 3R, 50122 Florence Forexchange Maccorp, Via dei Calzaiuoli 42R, 50122 Florence Venice Marco Polo (Tessera) Airport Departures, Travelex Downtown Venice Ital Travel, Calle dell’Ascensione, San Marco 72B, 30124 Venice Yex Change, Piazza San Marco, San Marco 146, 30124 Venice



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Translations РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 60: All In The Detail

Совершенство в деталях Превосходное мастерство в сочетании с безупречным дизайном: не удивительно, что итальянские аксессуары из натуральной кожи так популярны среди с мужчин по всему миру, говорит Руайрид Притчард

Знак «Made in Italy» на протяжении веков считался синонимом исключительного качества и непревзойденного мастерства. Знающие люди всегда ценили аксессуары, изготовленные руками итальянских ремесленников, и сегодня их талант востребован как никогда раньше. Начиная от обуви, шляп и ремней и заканчивая бумажниками и сумками – итальянские изделия из кожи сегодня достигли новых globalblue.com

стандартов роскоши. Cellerini – один из успешных итальянских проектов, задуманный Сильвано Целлерини еще в начале 1950-х годов. Его производство состояло всего из одной швейной машинки и нескольких отрезков кожи, купленных на деньги от небольшого наследства. Десять лет спустя Целлерини и его жена решили расширить ассортимент, начав пошив кожаных сумок и чемоданов для зажиточных флорентийских семей. Теперь бренд возглавляет дочь основателя – Алессандра, которая заботится о том, чтобы утвержденные родителями стандарты качества оставались всегда на высоте. Множество техник, использованных для пошива самой первой сумки бренда, по-прежнему актуальны: раскрой кожи всегда выполняется только вручную опытными ремесленниками, затем отдельные куски тщательно обрезаются и сшиваются с применением самых последних технологий. Кроме всего прочего, Cellerini продолжает предлагать услуги персонального пошива изделий, как и пол века тому назад. Благодаря широкому разнообразию кожи, подкладочных тканей, ниток и фурнитуры, Cellerini может создать любое изделие из натуральной итальянской кожи



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специально по заказу клиента. Santoni – еще одно известное ателье, претендующее на звание лучшего в Италии. Оно было основано в 1975 году миланским портным Андреа Сантони и занимается пошивом роскошной обуви ручной работы. Сейчас брендом управляет уже второе поколение семьи Сантони, которому удалось не только расширить производство до уровня крупнейшего в стране, но и сохранить семейные ценности: качество, внимание к деталям и мастерство, полностью основанное на ручном труде. Два ключевых направления бренда – инновации и традиции – до сих пор обеспечивают прочную основу для работы. Сегодня Santoni сочетает в себе традиционное мастерство ручной работы и последние новаторские технологии производства. В результате каждая пара обуви, будь то туфли или полуботинки, сидит на ноге просто идеально. Немало усилий уходит на поиск отборных сортов кожи и ткани, которые смогут обеспечить обуви комфортность, прочность и неотразимый внешний вид. Лучшим примером такого подхода служит последняя коллекция бренда – Limited Edition Collection, дизайном которой занимался сам Андреа Сантони. Все этапы создания обуви, начиная с первого раскроя тщательно отобранной кожи и заканчивая нанесением финальных фирменных штрихов, выполняются исключительно вручную и могут занимать globalblue.com

неограниченное количество времени. Например, окраска кожи может состоять из более чем 15 этапов, что еще раз доказывает насколько ручной труд и мастерство ценятся на производстве Santorini. Однако вкусы стильных мужчин сегодня не ограничиваются лишь новинками итальянских аксессуаров. Все большую популярность среди поклонников красивого итальянского ремесла приобретают винтажные изделия из кожы. Миланский магазин Bernardini – настоящая сокровищница со множеством прекрасных старинных изделий, восстановленных должным образом. Основателем магазина в 1996 году был Макс Бернардинию. На идею открытия нового дела в како-то мере повлиял бизнес его отца, долгое время торговавшего изысканным антиквариатом. В магазине посетителей ждет эклектичная коллекция редких и тщательно подобранных изделий, начиная от винтажных саквояжей, чемоданов и заканчивая дамскими сумочками Prada и Gucci. Многие из изделий были сделаны на заказ специально для богатых европейских путешественников еще во времена первых африканских экспедиций начала 20-х годов. Разнообразие и привлекательность коллекции служат прекрасной иллюстрацией многовекового качества итальянского производства, особенно в отношении изделий из кожи.


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Современные мужчины прекрасно понимают, что приобретение кожаных аксессуаров итальянского производства связано не только с выгодными инвестициями. Аксессуары могут дать весьма четкое представление о богатых итальянских традициях мастерства и пошива вещей на заказ. Изготовленные вручную аксессуары всегда были и остаются визитной карточкой итальянской роскоши и отличительным признаком по-настоящему хорошо одетого мужчины. cellerini.it, santonishoes.com, bernardinimilano.it 68: A Touch Of Glass

Стеклянное чудо Производители муранского стекла известны своими инновационными техниками и мастерством, выработанным в течение долгих веков, – рассказывает Фиона МакКензи Джонстон Остров Мурано или, как его еще называют, «стеклянный остров» расположен неподалеку от Венеции. Добраться сюда можно на специальном маршрутном катере «вапоретто». Свое прозвище остров приобрел благодаря стекольным мастерским, которые появились здесь еще в Х веке. «Венецию очень сложно представить без ее роскошных люстр, сверкающих так, как сверкают старинные

драгоценные камни при свете свечей», – замечает редактор, стилист, художник и дизайнер Марко Матысик. «Изысканное качество ручной работы придает каждому изделию особую уникальность, которая меня всегда восхищает». Шедевры из муранского стекла можно встретить во многих странах мира и дело здесь не только в экспорте. Местные изделия пользуются большой популярностью среди страстных коллекционеров, а техника производства муранского стекла распространилась далеко за пределы Италии – вспомнить того же Дейла Чихули, обучавшегося на заводе Venini, и его неповторимую люстру для лондонского музея Виктории и Альберта. «Венецианцы считались виртуозами стекольного мастерства еще со времен Ренессанса», – поясняет Одри Уитти, заведующий европейского отдела в Корнингском музее стекла. «Они открыли превосходные техники и методы стекольного производства. Их изделия всегда высоко ценили


и часто пытались скопировать. Сегодня многие из техник, рожденных на острове Мурано, воплощаются в творениях современных мастеров стеклодувов». Для производства стекла в большинстве случаев применяется минерал кремнезем, который легко плавится при высоких температурах. Во время охлаждения он становится вязким и податливым – этим моментом как раз и пользуются муранские стеклодувы, применяя весь свой талант и воображение. Среди старинных техник, дошедших до наших дней можно встретить авантюриновое стекло (avventurina) с бесчисленным множеством золотых точек, миллефиори (millefori) – мозаичное стекло с декоративными рисунками, а также молочное стекло (lattimo) – непрозрачное стекло молочного оттенка. Кроме того в последнее время было открыто globalblue.com

еще несколько техник, например, соммерсо (sommerso) – наслоение друг на друга стеклянных пластов разного цвета. В связи с тем, что посещение знаменитых заводов для туристов ограничено – как и в любом бизнесе здесь есть своя коммерческая тайна – лучший способ узнать больше о производстве декоративного стекла можно посетив местный музей «Museo del Vetro». Здесь представлено множество экспозиций, посвященных истории стекольного дела, а также экспонатов, сохранившихся с египетских времен до наших дней. Естественно, что ассортимент продукции не ограничивается только лишь люстрами. Знаменитые муранские заводы и отдельные частные студии производят огромный спектр изделий, включая посуду, скульптуры, пресс-папье, подсвечники, украшения, бокалы и

PHOTO: NOrberT Heyl

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всевозможные безделушки. Antica Vetreria Fratelli Toso – одно из самых известных местных предприятий, созданное семьей Тосо в 1854 году. Основной вид деятельности его заключается в развитии коллекции Fratelli Toso. Компания имеет прочные связи с рядом частных коллекционеров, аукционных домов и музеев по всему миру. Завод Pauly открылся в 1866 году и производит широкий спектр светильников, цветных и декоративных фужеров, графинов и кувшинов. Более современные и необычные изделия производятся компанией Berengo Studio. Она открылась в 1989 году, представив миру квинтэссенцию муранского стекла и современного искусства. Venini – еще одно известное предприятие, сотрудничающее со многими художниками и дизайнерами. В течении нескольких лет над совместными проектами здесь работал ряд выдающихся мастеров, включая Джо Понти и Карло Скарпа. Также Venini предлагает специальную услугу – создание изделий из стекла на заказ, благодаря которой покупатели могут получить в собственность абсолютно уникальный предмет интерьера для своего дома или даже яхты. На этом список не заканчивается. Salviati – компания, предлагающая большой выбор декоративных изделий из стекла, наряду с услугами по оформлению интерьера; Barovier & Toso специализируется на

светильниках, включая люстры, бра или торшеры; Ferro Murano производит все: от ваз до стеклянных балюстрад; Seguso предлагает светильники, бокалы, вазы и даже мебель (столики со стеклянными ножками). Formia International придется по вкусу поклонникам моды: здесь изготовляют муранское стекло специально для Roberto Cavalli и Armani Casa. Еще немало студий работает на острове Мурано: Simone Cenedese, Alessandro Mandruzzato, Gabbiani… Лучший способ проверить, что вы покупаете изделие от авторитетного производителя – это посетить официальный сайт, посвященный муранскому стеклу: здесь вы найдете список всех торговых марок, заводов и официальных магазинов. В любом случае каждый сможет найти здесь себе чтонибудь по вкусу, и что бы это ни было домой вы увезете частицу венецианской истории. «Особенно сложно удержаться чтобы не купить изящные фужеры для шампанского», – говорит Матысик. А зачем собственно себе в этом отказывать? muranoglass.com


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76: Undercover Luxury

Территория роскоши Знаменитые итальянские пассажи с их модными бутиками и ювелирными салонами скрывают в себе немало интересного. Бет Дрюс рассказывает о секрете их неизменной привлекательности

PHOTO: CC- BY-SA 3.0/MSTYSlAv CHernOv

Когда торговые центры по всему миру только начали набирать обороты, знаменитые итальянские пассажи, появившиеся еще в начале1800-х годов, уже давно были частью городской культуры. Привлекаая поклонников роскошных брендов, они также

были излюбленным местом для дружеских встреч и общения. «Мы называем их il salotto или «гостиные» – это место, где люди встречаются, совершают покупки и просто обедают», – говорит globalblue.com

директор одного из ведущего креативных агентств итальянец Джулио Руджери, рассказывая о пассаже Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II в Милане. Свое название онполучил в честь тогдашнего короля. Это старейший и самый известный торговый пассаж Италии, спроектированный и построенный Джузеппе Менгони почти 150 лет назад. Крыша пассажа образована двумя стеклянными сводами с восьмиугольниками в основании – в последствии такая форма отлично себя зарекомендовала и стала весьма популярной при строительстве подобных сооружений. Сегодня понятия стеклянная крыша и пассаж неразрывно связаны между собой. Именно этот торговый центр в 1913 году выбрал Марио Прада для открытия своего первого магазина кожаной одежды, работающего и по сей день. Бутик Prada наряду с расположенным по соседству магазином Louis Vuitton занимают центральную часть восьмиугольного атриума пассажа. Напротив оперного театра Сан Карло в Неаполе расположилась Galleria Umberto I, открывшаяся в конце 19 века. Она была построена Эмануелем Рокко в рамках модернизации города. Высокие стены венчает устремленный ввысь стеклянный купол, укрепленный 16-ю стальными балками. После многих лет простоя центр был отреставрирован и сейчас в нем кипит динамичная


PHOTO: CC -BY-SA 3.0/Pixel frOM MArS/MiCHel ZOriO

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неаполитанская жизнь: внутри работает множество кафе и магазинов, включая бутик Art Resort Hotel. Менее масштабная Galleria Alberto Sordi (ранее Galleria Colonna) в Риме, открывшаяся в 1922 году, отличается от своих миланских и неапольских аналогов изысканно украшенными витражами. Galleria довольно популярна среди местных жителей: помимо многочисленных бутиков модной одежды и аксессуаров здесь также есть шикарный книжный магазин. Если бы все знаменитые пассажи Италии поспорили о том, кто из них имеет самую роскошную клиентуру, то Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II имела бы все шансы на победу. В 1884 году здесь открылся один из самых легендарных итальянских ресторанов – Savini. Среди

посетителей заведения были такие звезды, как Джакомо Пуччини, Джузеппе Верди, Фрэнк Синатра, Ава Гарднер, Грейс Келли и Чарли Чаплин, который в последствии заметил, что «никогда не ел так хорошо». Соседние заведения Bar Zucca и Cafè Bif имеют не менее значительный список звездных поклонников. Cafè Bif было открыто в 1867 году кондитером Паоло Биффи, поставлявшим десерты для королевского стола. В непосредственной близости расположились знаменитые дома моды, включая Gucci (в котором, кстати, есть собственное кафе, где можно насладиться фирменным шоколадом бренда) и Tod’s, а также ряд ювелирных и часовых бутиков. «Старинные жильцы подобно Savini придают этому месту оттенок романтики, а ювелирные магазины поддерживают престиж», –


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считпет Руджери. Тем не менее, история самых известных торговых центров Италии не обошлась без курьезов. Появившееся в 90-х годах стремление к исключительности привело к тому, что у пассажа Galleria появилось несколько неожиданное дополнение, а именно – ресторан McDonalds. Многие помещения меняли своих хозяев, однако McDonalds просуществовал здесь на протяжении 20 лет вплоть до 2012 года, когда ресторану отказали в продлении аренды. Для кого как, а для Руджери это была радостная новсть: «Наконец-то город достиг своей цели по восстановлению культурного наследия». В какой-то мере этому культурному наследию поспособствовала Prada. Марка запустила новый проект под названием «Prada Galleria» по случаю столетия со дня открытия своего первого бутика. Новый магазин мужской одежды включает в себя ресторан и выставку, посвященную работе организации Prada Foundation. Организация, как известно, занимается поддержкой и развитием современного искусства. И хотя в основе проекта лежало желание компании восстановить связь со своими миланскими корнями, его запуск помог также укрепить отношения торгового центра Galleria с миром искусства и высокой моды, а также представителями высшего общества. В результате globalblue.com

возникла новая, роскошная атмосфера шоппинга: манящая, эксклюзивная и вдохновляющая. Как заметил Руджери: «… это место, которое лучше увидеть собственными глазами». 132: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с tax free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270,000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки tax free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите tax free форму Global Blue. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших пунктов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111


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Потратьте минимум €154.94 и сэкономьте до 15.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (VAT) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых пунктах возврата взымается дополнительная фиксированная плата за немедленный возврат наличными. 美文翻译

60: All In The Detail

痴醉细节 无可挑剔的设计加上精湛的制作工艺: 难 怪男人 对 意 大 利 优 良皮革如 此痴 醉,Ruairidh Pritchard如是说。 几个世纪以来, “意大利制造”一直是非凡 品质的代名词。这些知名品牌,一直将本 国的工匠技能发扬光大。如今的优秀工 匠们,比往昔更能将才华发挥得淋漓尽 致,制作出最为出色的男装配件。从鞋子 到帽子,皮带和钱包,行李箱,意大利的 手工皮具均在奢侈品品质上创下新高。 意大利的传 奇之一 是C el ler i n i。 这个品牌由Silvano Cellerini在20世纪 50年代初创办,创办之时极为简陋,不 过 拥 有一 架 缝 纫 机 和 若 干皮革,继 承 产业如此稀薄,谁也不成料 想,十年之

后,Cellerini与妻子将此品牌扩张做大, 开创自主的皮革、手袋、行李箱,一度成 为佛罗伦萨最富足的家族之一。 该品牌如今为创始人之女Alessandra掌舵,她将父母所留下的绝世品质发 扬光大。不少工艺技术依旧保持至今:皮 革切割完全由熟练工匠手工精细完成。 在缝制之前,所有皮革皆被小心裁剪,当 然,如今日益先进的制造技术也为精良 的制作贡献良多。 同样,如今Cellerini所能提供的个 性化定制,比半个世纪前更为琳琅满目。 由于原材料的多样性,客户可以自主选择 小牛皮、衬板、线和 硬件等等来组装。但 凡客户有所心愿,Cellerini皆可为其奉上 意大利皮革杰作。 另一家族工作室Sa nton i,可称得 上意大利最好的品牌。此品牌由Andrea Santoni于1975年创立,在米兰城里内打 造出精美绝伦的手工鞋。如今,Santoni 第二代已掌舵数十年,壮大成为意大利 本土最大制鞋企业之一。他们一直坚守 着核心 价 值 观 品 质,对 细 节保 持不懈 的激情,以及坚持一丝不苟手工打造工 艺。 Santoni的两大关键支柱— —创新 与传统——仍然是该品牌坚实的基础。 如今,Santoni结合了传统专家手工工艺 与开拓性的生产技术,以确保每个品类 臻至完美,无论是粗革皮鞋或是切尔西 靴子。 Santoni不惜将大量精力投入采购 最抢手珍稀的皮革和面料,以确保每种 风格有着尽善尽美的舒适,实用耐用以 及时尚美观。这些品质在最新限量珍藏 版上得到最为完美的体现。所有设计和 材料监督都由AndreaSantoni亲自担当。 从 精心 挑 选 的皮革到最 终 打上 品牌火 漆,每一步皆由手工费时费力完成。鞋子 制作上几乎不计时间成本,皮革着色超 过15道工序,这证明了Santoni对于工艺 的重视程度。 然而,意大利皮革并非只是新近在 富人圈中流行。复古及古董皮具流传有


146 序,如今 越发为人 重 视,不乏有心人投 资于漂亮的意大利皮革。米兰的Bernardini是一家古董行,专门经营精美珍稀古 董。该店由Max Bernardini始建于1996 年,他的父亲一直以来为意大利最富有 的家族进口精美古玩,他的热爱与灵感 便来自于长期的耳濡目染。 这 家 古 董 行 气 氛 温 馨,甚 至 拥 有 全职调酒师,是收集珍稀古董的专业场 地,古董皮具应有尽有,无论是老式旅行 箱包,手提箱或是梳妆盒,品牌还包括 Prada和Gucci。这许多箱包当时为富裕 的欧洲探险家而制。那些探险家便携此 箱包在二十世纪初期第一次远征非洲。 这些传奇的故事,多样的皮具,精美的设 计都为意大利的品质皮具写下精彩不凡 的注脚。 对于现代男人而言,意大利皮具不 仅拥有恒久风格,更拥有丰富的专业工 艺传统和个性化的定制技术。这不仅是 意大利男人着装的标志风格,更是意大 利制作对于奢侈品行业的杰出贡献。 cellerini.it, santonishoes.com, bernardinimilano.it

68: A Touch Of Glass

玻璃之城

几百年来穆拉诺的玻璃制造商,因不懈追 求创新与卓越而享誉盛名。Fiona McKenzie Johnston带您一探究竟 从威尼斯主岛乘坐一小段汽艇,就能来 到10世纪以来,因玻璃制品远近扬名, 而被称为“玻璃岛”的穆拉诺。 “如果没 有这 些可以像 古老 珠 宝一样反 射 烛 光 的透光吊灯,威尼斯就不会是今日的威 尼斯。”编辑、造型师、艺术家与设计师 Marko Matysik表示。 “精湛的手工制作 技艺,使每件作品都独特得让我惊叹。” 穆拉诺玻璃制品的杰出代表遍布世 界各地,不仅广为出口,还有不少热衷于 此的收藏家,以及将在穆拉诺学到的技 艺用于自身作品的艺术家们:譬如曾获 globalblue.com

得 Fulbright奖学金,在Venini工厂学习 的Dale Chihuly,他制作的举世闻名的吊 灯,就悬挂在伦敦维多利亚和阿尔伯特 博物馆的中庭。 “威尼斯人从文艺复兴时期起就被 视为玻璃艺术家”Corning玻璃博物馆 的欧洲玻璃展的策展人Audrey Whitty 解释道。 “他们发展出超绝的工艺与玻璃 制作配方。他们的作品受到高度追捧,并 屡受模仿。今日,穆拉诺岛孕育出的许多 技艺与配方,已经在当代艺术家们的玻 璃作品中广受运用。” 玻 璃 由二 氧化 硅 制 成,其 在 高 温 下会变成液体。等到其再次冷却之前, 就是手工艺人们展示技艺的时刻,也是 穆拉诺的玻璃制造商们,运用精湛技艺 与想象力、点石成 金的时刻。其中沿用 至今的百年古老技术,包括金色斑点玻 璃工艺(av vent ur ina),切割多色片工 艺(millefiori)和不透明奶状玻璃工艺 ( lattimo )等, 还有一些技术在今日 得到了进一步改良,譬如对比色分层工艺 ( sommerso ) 。 由于多数的优秀工场不允许外人参 观——毕竟他们是制作玻璃的生意人, 而非娱 乐业 服务者— — 学习这些技 术


147 的最佳途径,是在穆拉诺的玻璃博物馆 (Museo del Vetro),里面陈列着琉璃 制造的历史,以及从古埃及时代至今的 玻璃制品样品。 自然,玻璃制作不仅仅是吊灯制作 而已。慕拉诺数不胜数的工厂与独立艺 术工作室中,出产着品类不胜枚举的玻璃 制品:从优雅的餐具、别具一格的雕像、 纸镇、烛台、珠宝首饰、高脚杯、到造型 各异的饰品。其中最响当当的名字之一 是Antica Vetreria Fratelli Toso,由Toso 家族自1854年经营至今。今日品牌主要 致力于推广Fratelli Toso系列,并且与诸 多私人收藏者、拍卖行与博物馆保持着 紧密联系。1866年开业的Pauly,同样提 供 种 类广泛的照明器 具 与彩色 装饰 酒 杯,醒酒器与水壶等产品。 想寻求更现代、或更与众不同的作 品,不妨留意成立于1989年的Berengo工 作室,他们将穆拉诺玻璃制作的传统与 当代艺术相融合。另一个经常与著名艺 术家和设计师合作的重要名字则是Venini,就是上文中提到Chilhuly受培训的地 点。多年来,品牌与不少重量级人物进行 合作,包括Giò Ponti与Carlo Scarpa等, 更多的伙伴关系也在不断磋商中。Venini 同样提供定制服务,可以为您的家、甚至 您的游艇打造独一无二的产品。 这个列表还在不断延伸。另一家提 供室内设计服务与室内装饰品零售的公 司Sa lv i at i,也与许多艺术家们进行合 作。 Barovier & Toso则精于专业照明, 无论是吊灯,壁 灯还是落地 灯;F e r r o M u r a n o 提 供从 玻璃 碗 到玻璃 楼 梯 扶 手的一系列产品;Seguso则提供灯具、 玻璃杯、花瓶,甚至家具(玻璃腿桌子) 产品。 Formia International是时尚凝 聚之地, 他们为Roberto Cavalli与Armani Casa设计产品;其他值得关注的品 牌还有 Simone Cenedese,Alessandro Mandruzzato,Gabbiani等……从信誉 牢靠的玻璃制作商那里购买产品的最佳 方法,就是登陆穆拉诺玻璃官方网站,上 面列有详细的商标名,工厂和批发商的

完整名录。 有一点可以确定的是,所有人都可 在慕拉诺找到自己心仪的产品,而无论 你买了什么,带回家的都是一片威尼斯的 历史。 “购买娇弱的香槟杯的冲动始终让 人难以抗拒, ”Matysik说道,那何不干 脆向诱惑投降呢? muranoglass.com

76: Undercover Luxury

解密奢华

意大利历史悠久的商场,不只带来令人欣 羡的时尚与首饰精品。跟随 Beth Druce 一起揭示这持久不衰魅力背后的秘密 在这个零售空间以光速演化的时代,意 大利那些历史悠久的商场,宛如社会与 城市文化中久远伫立的灯塔,可以追溯至 19世纪。他们是许多奢侈品牌的家,也是 意大利社会与创意中心,难怪其吸引力能 经久不衰。 “我们把商场命名为il salotto [客厅] ,因为它是俊俏的人们会面、购物与用餐 的场所。” 意大利本土领先的创意机构 设计总监 Giulio Ruggieri,在谈到米兰 的埃马努埃莱二世长廊时解释道。这座 以国王的名字命名的商场,在150年前由 Giuseppe Mengoni设计与建造,是意大 利最古老、最负盛名的商场。 商场由两条以八角形相接的玻璃拱 廊组成, 其拱形玻璃和铸铁屋顶对之后 若干年的零售空间设计,有着深远的影 响;无论是玻璃屋顶还是‘galleria’这个 词,都在今日的购物中心设计中屡见不 鲜。1913年Mario Prada正是在这里开设 了首家店铺,贩卖皮具系列,今日这家店 仍在经营。Prada与Louis Vuitton一起, 在中心广场气势宏伟的八角形空间内占 据着重要一席。 翁贝托长廊的历史可以追溯到19世 纪后期,它正位于圣卡罗歌剧院对面,是 由Emanuele Rocco为当时城市复兴或整 治设计中的一部分。16根金属肋骨支撑


148 起的玻璃穹顶高而通风,经过多年的闲 置之后,它再次回到了那不勒斯生活的中 心舞台,容纳着一家精品艺术度假酒店、 商店与咖啡馆。规模小一点的还有罗马 Galleria Alberto Sordi购物长廊(从前 的 (Galleria Colonna),其于1922年开 业,以华丽的新艺术风格彩色玻璃而引 人注目。它比起米兰和那不勒斯的同僚 更为温和,除了拥有众多时尚与配饰品牌 外还有一家书店,同时也是热门且迷人的 聚会场所。 如 果所有意 大 利历史 悠久 的商场 在招揽国家精英时都打成平手,那么它 的埃马努埃莱二世拱廊的顾客群体最为 显赫,其中的许多人也频繁光顾Savini, 这个传奇餐厅从1884年发布起就声名雷 动。Giacomo Puccini,Giuseppe Verdi Frank Sinatra,Ava Gardner和 Grace Kelly都是Savani的著名食客,查理卓别 林曾有一番著名的评论, “我从来没有吃 得这么好过。”邻近的酒吧Zucca与Cafè BIFFI同样也有众多明星追随,后者开业 于1867年,由意大利王室的家族糕点师 Paolo Bif创建。 这 些流行圣 地 与 时装 屋们 并肩 而 立,像是G uc c i(品牌拥有自己的咖啡 吧,可以在此享有具有独家标记的巧克 力)和Tod's“Savini这样的老住户为其 平添浪漫色彩,珠宝店则帮助维持尊贵 威名, ” Ruggieri说道。 然而,意大利的知名商场的发展史 上并非没有争议性时刻。在20世纪90年 代出现了对于排他性理念的动摇,出现 在商场中的麦当劳就是让人出乎意料的 现象之一。虽说许多店铺纷纷倒闭,但这 座汉堡巨头仍然盘踞了20年,直到2012 年其续约要求被拒绝。不少人包括Ruggieri松了口气: “这个城市似乎已确定了 其重塑文化遗产的目标。” 诸如此类的文化遗产包括Prada推 出的,纪念品牌创立第一间精品店100周 年的Prada Galleria项目。新开设的男装 店铺,包括一间餐厅和致力于推广当代 艺术的Prada基金会服务的展览空间。 globalblue.com

该项目的目标是重新连接品牌与其生发 于米兰的根源,也同时加强了店铺与艺 术世界、时尚和上流社会的关系,而这正 是品牌声誉与历史遗产建立的基础。零 售和卓越文化之间的合作关系正在日益 增多,Ruggieri自称为一个充满诱惑、绝 无仅有与激动人心的购物场所,但抛开这 一切不谈,它一个鲜艳夺目的地方。

132: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球,尊享退税 当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商 店消费时,环球蓝联(Global Blue)购物 退税服务(Tax Free Shopping)为您节 约购物开销。 每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝 联( Global Blue )获得购物退税,您怎 能错过?您要做的只是寻找蓝星标志或 者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联(Global Blue)服务,然后遵循我们简单的退税 过程: 1. 消费购物 无论您在哪里消费,请索要环球蓝联退 税表格(Global Blue Tax Free Form)。 2. 申请退税 当您准备回家时,您需要先去出发城市 的海关柜台请他们在您的退税表格上盖 章,然后再到我们的客服柜台领取您的 退税款。 联系方式: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费€154.94并且节约高达购买价 格15.5%的金额。请注意:最终退 款将 包含增值税总额,但是要扣除管理手续 费。若选择即时现金退税,部分退税点 将以退税表格为单位收取一定数额的手 续费。


PHOTO: © Gianni CeCCanTi

149

日本語翻訳

60: All In The Detail ディテールがすべて 優れた職人技に非の打ちどころのないデ ザイン、イタリアの高級革製洋品ブランド が世界中の男性にうけているのも不思議 はない。ルーリー・プリチャードがレポー トする。 何世紀も前から、 「メイド・イン・イタリ ア」といえば一際優れた品質を意味して きた。通はこの国の職人が持つ伝統技 能を常に高く評価してきたが、その職人 たちが今、従来にも増してその才能を最 高の革製紳士洋品の生産に注いでいる。 靴から帽子、カバン、ベルト、財布、旅行 カバンに至るまで、イタリアの手作り革製 品はさらなる贅沢の極みに達している。 イタリアのサクセスストーリーの一 つがチェレリーニだ。シルヴァーノ・チェ レリーニが1950年代初頭に設立したこの ブランドは、少額の遺産を元手に買った ミシン一台と獣皮一枚から出発した。10 年後、チェレリーニとその妻は事業を拡 大し、当時のフィレンツェの最富裕層を 相手に、革のハンドバッグや旅行カバン を作り始める。 現在このブランドを率いるのは創業者の

娘アレッサンドラだが、比類のない品質 に対する両親のこだわりを持ち続けるこ とに心を砕いている。チェレリーニが初 めてカバンを作った時の作業手順の多く は、今も変わっていない。革は全て同社 の経験豊かな職人が手でカットし、続く トリミングも手作業で丁寧に行う。その後 の縫製過程では、製造技術の進歩の助 けを借りている。 また、チェレリーニでは半世紀以上 も前と同じレベルのパーソナライゼーシ ョン・サービスを今も提供している。仔牛 革、裏地、糸、金具は幅広い選択肢があ り、自分だけのイタリア革の傑作を誂え てもらえる。同じく家族経営のアトリエで 「イタリア最高」を自称するのは、サント ーニだ。アンドレア・サントーニが1975年 に創業して以来、ミラノ製手作り靴の傑 作をいくつも生み出して来た。創業から 数十年を経て現在二代目が舵を取るサン トーニは、イタリア生まれの靴メーカーと しては国内有数の規模に成長したが、 「 品質」、 「ディテールへのこだわり」、 「も っぱら手作業」という基本的な価値観は 変わらず持ち続けている。 ブランドの二大柱である「革新」と 「伝統」は、仕事の基礎として今も揺る ぎない。近年はブローグでもチェルシー ブーツでも、一足一足の靴のフィット感を 極めるために、伝統に根差した職人の技


150 と先駆的な生産技術とを組み合わせて いる。 どのスタイルでもデザインが粋で、し かも履き心地が良く実用的で耐久性の高 いものを作るために、最も珍重される皮 や生地の調達にも余念がない。そうした 努力がありありと見てとれるのが、同ブラ ンドの最新限定コレクションだ。デザイン も材料も、アンドレア・サントーニが自ら 吟味している。厳選された革のカットか ら最後にサントーニのマークの焼印を入 れるまでの全ての工程を手で行い、一足 を作るのに時間の制限はない。革の着色 過程一つでも15回以上色を重ねなけれ ばならないものがあり、それを思えば、サ ントーニの生産には依然として職人の技 が最も重要なことがわかる。 ところで、裕福な男性のお気に入り は何も新品のイタリア製品だけではな い。ヴィンテージや修復されたアンティー クの革製品も、美しいイタリアンレザー に投資したい人の間で人気が高まってい る。ミラノのベルナルディーニは、手間暇 かけて修復された珍しいアンティーク物 が一杯だ。この店はオーナーのマックス・ ベルナルディーニが1996年に開店した。 父親がイタリアの大富豪向けの高級アン ティーク輸入に携わっていたことがきっ かけだ。 バーテンダーが常駐する感じのいい 店内には、プラダやグッチといったブラン ド製のヴィンテージのトランクやスーツケ ース、バニティケースなど、巧みに入手し た珍品を折衷したコレクションが展示さ れている。その多くは、20世紀はじめのア フリカ探検時代初期にヨーロッパの富裕 な探検家用に作られたものだ。品揃えの 多様さと価値の高さは、イタリアの高級 革製品作りの長い歴史をまざまざと証明 している。 現代の男性にとって、イタリア革製 洋品は長持ちするスタイルへの投資であ るだけでなく、職人技を駆使したもの作 りと、昔から真の着こなし上手の特徴で globalblue.com

あり、本当の贅沢に対するイタリア人のこ だわりの印でもある個々人に合わせたパ ーソナライゼーションの豊かな伝統につ いて、興味深い洞察を与えてくれるもの でもあるのは確かだ。 cellerini.it、santonishoes.com、 bernardinimilano.it

68: A Touch Of Glass ガラスの感触 ムラーノのガラスメーカーは、革新と卓越 した品質で定評がある。その名声は数世 紀にわたって築き上げてきた実績の賜物 だ。フィオナ・マッケンジー・ジョンストン が説明する。

ベニス本島からヴァポレット(水上バス) に乗ると、まもなくムラーノ島に着く。ここ は10世紀から続くガラス産地で、 「ガラス 島」としても知られる。 「オールドカットの 宝石のようにロウソクの光にきらめく透明 感あるシャンデリアを語らずして、ベニス を語ることはできない」と、エディターで スタイリスト、アーティスト、デザイナーで もあるマルコ・マティシクはいう。 「精妙 な手作りで、一つ一つの作品に独特の味 わいがあるところが素晴らしいのです。」 ムラーノガラスは逸品が世界各国に 散在する。広く輸出されている上に熱心 なコレクターがいるからだ。また、多くの


151 アーティストがムラーノで学んだテクニッ クを作品に応用している。例えばデイル・ チフーリだ。フルブライト奨学金を得てヴ ェニーニで修業した彼の見事なシャンデ リアは、ロンドンのヴィクトリア&アルバ ート美術館の吹抜け空間を飾っている。 コーニングガラス博物館ヨーロッパ ガラス担当学芸員のオードリー・ウィティ いわく、 「ベニス(ベネチア)人はルネッ サンス時代からガラスの匠と言われてき ました。優れた技法とガラス原料調合法 を開発した彼らの作品は人気が高く、模 倣品も多く作られました。今日でも、ムラ ーノ島で開発された技法や調合法の多く が、現代ガラス芸術家の作品に用いられ ています。」 ガラスの原料はシリカだ。シリカは 高温で液状化し、冷える過程のある段階 で展性を帯びる。ムラーノのガラス職人 はそこをとらえて、優れた手腕と想像力を 発揮するのだ。何百年も昔の技法で現在 でも用いられているのは、金色の微粒子 を混ぜたガラス(アヴェンチュリーナ)、 複数色のガラス棒を束ねて輪切りにした ガラス(ミッレフィオーリ)、不透明な乳 白ガラス(ラッティモ)など。比較的最近 の技法としては、対照的な色を層状に重 ねる(ソンメルソ)などがある。 有名工房の多くは自由に見学できな いため(訪問者を楽しませることより、ガ ラス作りがやはり本分なので)、こうした 技法について詳しく知るには、ムラーノ・ ムゼオ・デル・ヴェトロ(ガラス博物館) を訪ねるのが一番だ。ここでは、ガラス作 りの歴史をはじめ、古代エジプトから現 代までのサンプルも展示している。 もちろん、シャンデリアが全てでは ない。ムラーノの工場や数多くあるアーテ ィストの個人スタジオでは、エレガントな 食器類、非凡な置物、文鎮、燭台、宝飾 品、足つきグラス類、数々の装身小物ま で、実に様々な品も製作している。最も有 名なメーカーの一つは、1854年の創業以 来トーゾ一族が経営するアンティカ・ヴェ

トレリア・フラテッリ・トーゾだ。現在は 主にフラテッリ・トーゾコレクションのプ ロモーションに力を入れており、世界中 の個人コレクター、オークション業者、美 術館と深い関わりを持つ。パウリは1866 年創業で、幅広い種類の照明器具の他、 色ガラスや装飾ガラスのグラスやデカン タ、ジャグを作っている。 一方、ベレンゴ・スタジオはもっと現 代的で変わった感じのものを目指して、 ムラーノのガラス作りの伝統と現代芸術 を合体させるべく1989年に創設された。 先ほどチフーリが修行した場として触れ たヴェニーニも、著名なアーティストやデ ザイナーと組むことにを力を入れてきた。 これまでに、ジオ・ポンティやカルロ・ス カルパをはじめ数人の巨匠とコラボを実 現し、常に新たなパートナーシップを開 発している。自宅(あるいは自艇)用に何 かユニークなものが欲しいという人のた めに、ヴェニーニでは誂えサービスも行っ ている。 他にもまだまだある。市販の装飾用 品に加えインテリアサービスも提供するも う一つのメーカーがサルヴィアーティで、 同社も数々のデザイナーと提携している。 バロヴィエール&トーゾは照明機器専門 で、シャンデリアから壁掛け照明、フロア 照明まで揃っている。フェッロ・ムラーノ はボウルからガラスの手すりまでありとあ らゆるものを作っているし、セグーゾも照 明、グラス、花瓶から家具(ガラスの足が ついたテーブル)に至るまで多彩に提供 している。ファッション通なら、見るべき はやはりフォルミア・インターナショナル だ。同社はロベルト・カヴァリとアルマー ニ・カーザのムラーノガラス製品をデザイ ンしている。その他、シモーネ・チェネデ ーゼ、アレッサンドロ・マンドルッザト、ガ ッビアーニ等々、リストは尽きない。買お うとしているガラスが信頼できるメーカー 製かどうか調べるには、ムラーノガラスの ウェブサイトが最適だ。商標の詳細や工 場と取扱店の一覧を掲載している。


152 誰でも何かしら目ぼしいものが見つかる ことと、何を買うにしろ、ベニスの歴史の 一かけらを持ち帰ることになるというこ とは確かだ。 「いつだって、繊細なシャン ペングラスを買いたいという衝動には抗 しがたいものがある」と、マティシクは言 う。それなら、いっそ誘惑に負けてしまっ たら? muranoglass.com

76: Undercover Luxury 高級アーケード イタリアの歴史あるアーケードには、羨望 のファッションや宝飾品などが並ぶブテ ィックがあるが、魅力はそれだけではな い。人を惹きつけて止まないそうした高 級アーケードの秘密を、べス・ドゥルース が探る。 小売店舗スペースが目まぐるしく移り変 わる時代にあって、イタリアの歴史的ア ーケードは1800年代から続く社会・都 市文化の象徴だ。多くの高級ブランドを 生んだこれらのアーケードは、この国の 社交界や創作家のネットワークの中心で あり、それが不朽の魅力につながってい る。 「私たちはイル・サロット(リビング ルーム)と呼んでいます。美しい人々が出 会い、買い物や食事をする所です。」イタ リア生まれで一流広告代理店デザインデ ィレクターのジュリオ・ルジエリは、ミラノ のガッレリア・ヴィットリオ・エマヌエーレ II についてこう話す。およそ150年前にジ ュゼッペ・メンゴーニが設計・建設し、当 時の王にちなんで名付けられたこのガッ レリアは、イタリアで最も古く、有名なア ーケードだ。 ガラスの丸天井を持つ二つのアーケ ードから成り、その交差点が八角形にな ったデザインだが、ガラスと鋳鉄ででき たアーチ状の屋根は、後世の小売空間設 計に影響を与えてきた。ガラスの天井も globalblue.com

「ガッレリア」という呼び方も、現代のシ ョッピングセンターのデザインに顕在す る。ここは1913年にマリオ・プラダが第一 号店の立地として選んだ場所で、選り抜 きの革製品を販売したその店は今も健在 だ。プラダはルイ・ヴィトンとともに、ガッ レリア中央の堂々たる八角形の空間に陣 取っている。 ナポリでは、19世紀末に遡るガッ レリア・ウンベルトI がサン・カルロ歌劇 場の向いにある。エマヌエーレ・ロッコが 当時進められていた市のリサナメント( 再開発)の一環として設計したものだ。 天井が高く軽快感のあるこのアーケード は、16本の金属の肋材に支えられたガラ スのドームを頂く。長年老朽化が進むま まにされていたが、現在はナポリ人の生 活の中心的存在として復活し、ブティック ホテルのアートリゾートホテルの他、店舗 やカフェが入居している。一方、1922年に オープンしたローマのガッレリア・アルベ ルト・ソルディ(旧ガッレリア・コロンナ) は規模は小さいが、華麗なアールヌーボ ーのステンドグラスで有名だ。ミラノやナ ポリのアーケードに比べて控えめなが ら、ファッションやアクセサリーの各種ブ ランドと本屋があり、チャーミングな待ち 合わせ場所として人気がある。 イタリアの歴史あるアーケードはど こも国内の名士を惹きつけているが、著 名人を常連にもつことで名高いのは何と いってもガッレリア・ヴィットリオ・エマヌ エーレII だ。中でも、1884年の開業以来 伝説的な評判を誇るサヴィーニには、多 くが足繁く訪れている。このレストランで 食事した著名人は、ジャコモ・プッチー ニ、ジュゼッペ・ヴェルディ、フランク・シ ナトラ、エヴァ・ガードナー、グレース・ケ リーなど。チャーリー・チャップリンが「 こんな素晴らしい食事はこれまでしたこ とがない」と評したことは、よく知られて いる。近くにあるバール・ズッカとカフェ・ ビッフィも、同様に有名人のファンが多 い。カフェ・ビッフィは1867年に、当時イ


153 タリア王家のお抱え菓子職人だったパオ ロ・ビッフィが開店した。 こうした人気店がグッチ(特徴的な ロゴの入ったチョコレートが楽しめるカフ ェもある)やトッズなどのファッションブ ランドの合間にあるところに、結構そそ られる。 「サヴィーニのような古くからの テナントのおかげであのロマンチックな 雰囲気が醸し出され、宝石店も名声を 保つことができるのです」と、ルジエリは いう。 とはいえ、このイタリア一有名なア ーケードも、これまで論争と無縁だった わけではない。高級感を追求する意志が 1990年代に一時揺らいだことがあり、マ クドナルドをはじめ、ちょっと意外な店が いくつかガッレリアに出店した。多くはそ の後姿を消したが、マクドナルドは2012 年に店舗賃貸契約の更新を拒否される まで20年間営業していた。このハンバー ガーチェーンが去って、ルジエリとしては 胸をなでおろす思いだった。 「この街は文 化的遺産を取り戻すことを目標に掲げた ようです。」 そんな文化的遺産はプラダという形 で現れる。同ブランドが、第一号店の開 店100周年を記念してプラダ・ガッレリア プロジェクトを立ち上げたのだ。新たに 開店したメンズウェアの店には、レストラ ンと、現代芸術の振興を図るプラダ財団 専用の展示スペースが設けられている。 このプロジェクトは、プラダブランドをミ ラノのルーツと再びつなぎたいというのが 動機だったが、ガッレリアとアート界やフ ァッション界、上流社会との関係を強化 する結果にもなっている。ガッレリアの評 判は、いろいろな意味でそうした関係を 礎に築かれてきたのだ。こうして、小売業 と文化の間にこの上なく強いパートナー シップが生まれ、ガッレリアは魅力的で 高級感とインスピレーションに満ちたシ ョッピングの場、そして(ルジエリが力を 込めて言うように)「何より、見られたい 場」になっている。

132: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 海外でのお買い物が 免税に グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング 制度をご利用いただきますと、世界各地 の有名ショッピング街にある27万軒を超 える加盟 店でのお買い物がお得になり ます。 年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバ ル・ブルーの免税ショッピングを、貴方も ぜひご利用ください。手続きは簡単。ま ず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探します。 星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グロー バル・ブルー?」とお尋ねください。あと は、次のステップを踏むだけです。 1. お買い物 お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブ ルーの免税書類(タックスフリー・フォー ム)を受け取ってください。 2.還付請求 ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関で免 税書類にスタンプを押してもらってから、 グローバル・ブルーのカスタマーサービス デスクで払い戻しを受けます。 お問い合わせ: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 €154.94以上のお買い物をすれば、購入 価格の最高15.5%の払い戻しが受けられ ます。最終的な払い戻し額は、付加価値 税(VAT)合計から事務手数料を差し引 いた金額となりますので、その旨ご了承く ださい。なお、現金での即日還付が必要 な場合は、還付の場所によって、各タック スフリーフォームにつき固定の追加手数 料をとられる場合があります。


154

Postcard

LUIGI BEVILACQUA A family company to this day, Luigi Bevilacqua was founded three centuries ago in Venice, using the 16th-century techniques and materials from when the craft of weaving was at its peak. The only Italian manufacturer of the sought-after soprarizzi velvets, it soon built a name for itself as a maker of true luxury textiles, and generation after generation of the family has added to that prestige. Although the manufacturing process has evolved, the Above: the Luigi Bevilacqua mill, circa 1890

company retains its traditionalist approach, and Luigi Bevilacqua has preserved its reputation as well as its commitment to the highest quality. Its luxurious fabrics have found their way into the homes and even the wardrobes of the rich and famous, as well as the most lavish hotels and theatres across the world. They have graced the walls of the White House, and the brand is ofcial supplier to the Vatican. hl Luigi Bevilacqua, Campiello de la Comare, Santa Croce 1320, 30135 Venice, +39 041 721566, luigi-bevilacqua.com



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